THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN;

JOURNEYS,

ADVENTURES,
OF AN

AND

IMPRISONMENTS

ENGLISHMAN,

AN

ATTEMPT

TO

CIRCULATE

THE

SCRIPTURES

IN

THE

PENINSULA.

By

GEORGE,
AUTHOR OF

borrow,
GYPSIES OF

I?o'2"-''^

"the

SPAIN."

LONDON:
JOHN

MURRAY,

ALBEMARLE 1849.

STREET.

^-"
\

"^

PREFACE.

It is very seldom
books

that the
sent

of preface

work

have

been

to write a
as
"

and preface, its perusalwill not

work
now

into the world without to this I humbly call the attention of the courteous reader, and appreciation a little tend to the proper understanding and public, which Bible in residence in during its agentj for the as Societj^
me a
"

is read ; indeed, of late years most I deem it, however, advisable any.

these volumes.

The

offered to the

is

styled

"

The

Spain," consists of a narrative of what occurred that country, to which I was sent by the Bible
purpose
certain

to

the Scriptures.It comprehends, however, of printing and circulating and leaves me at last in the land journeysand adventures in Portugal, of the Coraliai," after having undergone considerable buffeting to which region, in Spain,I foimd it expedient to retire for a season. It is very probable that had I visited Spain from mere or with a ciu'iosity, have attemptedto give I shou^ld never of passing i view a year or two agreeably, * I heard and saw. I am of my proceedings, or of what no any detailed account r tourist, but I vrent there on remarkwriter of books of travels; a somewhat no into strange situations and positions, led me which necessarily in^ able errand., into contact with and brought me in difficultiesand pei-plexities, me ^-yolved the whole, I flatter myself and gi'ades peopleof all descriptions ; so that, upon that a narrative of such a pilgrimagemay not be wholly unhiteresting to the trite various is not the books for, though as public,more subject especially ; is that the the have believe been I in about one Spain, only present published "J existence which treats of missionary labour in that country. ^ volume which have Many things,it is true, will be found in the following t-f I offer,however, no ""little connexion with religion, enterprise; or religious firstto last adrift in I was, as I may them. apology for introducing say, from O Spain,the land of old renown, the land of wonder and mystery, with better opwith its strange secrets and peculiarities of becoming acquainted than, rwj poi-tmiities to a foreigner afforded to any individual, certainly ever perhaps, yet were ; and and characters perhaps if in many instances I have introduced scenes imprecedeuted in a work I have of this description, only to observe, that,during my rf^ojournin Spain,I was so unavoidablymixed up with such, that I could scarcely Qjhavegiven a faithful narrative of what befell me had I not brought them for, ^
" '

in the manner which I have done. It is of *2 remark, that, called suddenly and unexpectedly" to undertake worthy "^ the adventure of for such an enterprise. unprepai'ed Spain,"I was not altogether ^ In the day-dreams of my boyhood, Spain always bore a considerable share,and I took a particular that I should, at a interest in her, without any presentiment future time, be called upon to take a part, however humble, in her strange
^ to acquire her noble at a very earlyperiod,led me t^dramas; which interest, with and to make her literatui'e acquainted "^language, (scarcely myself worthy the traditions when I a nd that entered h er so "language^ history, Spain for Q)of ; f.

ward

""the firsttime I felt

--*

more

at

home

than

I should

otherwise

have

done.

I have no passedfive years, which, if not the most eventful, were, saying,the most happy years of my existence. Of Spain at the ^ present time, now alas ! to return, I that the day-dream has vanished, never, entertain the warmest admiration : she is the m.ost magnificentcountry in the DOworld, and certainly with the finestclimate. Whether probablythe most fertile, which I shall not f4 her children are worthy of their mother, is another question, attempt to answer myself with observingthat,amongst much that ; but content r4is lamentable and reprehensible, I have foimd much tliatis noble and to be adV

'^ In Spain I hesitation in

IV

PREFACE.

much stern heroic virtue; much savage and horrible crime; of \o\\ the least at great body of the Spanishnation, amongst vulgar vice very little, well here to observe that I advance will be it for as mission wliifh "with lay ; my from whom I the with Spanish nobility, intimate claim to an acquaintance no I have revanche, however, would en me circumstances permit ; kept as remote as and with the peasants, shepherds, familiar terms to live on had the honour I who treated bacalao have eaten bread and whose always ; muleteers of Spain, debted been inI have not imfrequeutly with kindness and courtesy, and to whom me mired:
for shelter and
"

protection.
of beariiifj

The

generous

Ruy

Diaz

the
*

Cid,

are

Francisco Gonzales, and the high deeds of still sung amongst the fastnesses of the Sierra

Morena."

in proofof the be broughtforward can of her populacharacter the and of resources sterling tion, Spain, still and unexis she a hausted at tlie fact the powerful than that, presentday, and certain children to a her still, high-minded a extent, country, and of the brutal sensual and the misrule great people. Yes, notwithstanding the spiritual tyranny of the court Austrian,the dotingBourbon, and, above all,
I believe that
no

stronger argument

natural

vigourand

of Eome,
are

not
:

her own maintain her oato, fight still yet fanatic slaves and crouchingbeggars. This

Spain can

much

she has

undergone far

more

than

Naples had

ever

combat, and Spaniards is sayingmuch, very to bear, and yet the

in Naples has not been hers. There is stillvalour in Asturia,generosity of La Mancha still and the peasantwomen can in Old Castile, Aragon, probity of their guest. afford to placea silver fork and a snowy napkin beside the plate a wide gulf between of Austrian,Bourbon, and Rome, there is still Yes, in spite Spain and Naples. Strangeas it may sound, Spainis not a fanatic country. I know something been : Spain never about her, and declare that she is not, nor has ever changes. La the she-butcher. for nearlytwo centuries,she was It is true that, Vei-duga, into effectthe atrocious instrument for carrying of malignantRome ; the chosen the not fanaticism that was of springwhich impelledher to projects power ; yet in her the another the Avork of butchery predominantone, was worked : feeling, her It her fatal pride. was pridethat she was induced to by humouring upon in the Low and her precious blood waste treasure Countiy wars, to launch the had ever of Rome insane actions. Love Armada, and to many otlier equally the title of Gonfaloniera of her policy influence over sliglit ; but, flattered by she the Vicar of Jesus, and eager to prove hei'self not unworthy of the same, destruction with the cry of shut licr eyes, and rushed upon her own Charge, Spain! self. liut the arms of Spain became abroad,and she retired within herpowerless and cruelty of IJome. ceased to be the tool of the vengeance She She No ! though she could no longerwield the sword however. not cast was aside, with success account. againstthe Lutherans, she might stillbe turned to some stillthe land of the vine and olive. She luid still gold and silver, and she was of Rome the banker tlie poor Ceasing to be the butcher, she became ; and another who to it esteen\ a privilege pay person'sreckoning, Spaniai-ds, always for a long time happy in being permittedto minister to tlie grasping were of Kouu-, who, duringthe last century, probably extracted from Spain cupidity fate of
"

"

"

more

from all the rest of Christendom. into invaded Spain; the land. Napoleon and his fierce Franks came wars will of which devastation ellects plunder and ensued,the probablybe felt for could Peter from no so freely as of yore, and longer jiay pence to Spain ages.
treasure

than

But

that

periodshe

became
*
"

in contemptible
Om
Mini

the eyes of

Rome, who

has

no

respect

Friiiuls Cioiir.alos, oj; llodiik !" \ SU'rra Miirene .siiin^os

Cid,
1829.

KrGnike

Iliiiu.

liySev"rm

Grundlvig. Copenhagen,

PREFACE. for
a

minister to her cruelty avarice. The far as it can so or his hut he was far would t o still as as means allow, willing Spaniai'd pay, soon given to understaud that he was a degraded being, a barbarian ; nay, a provided you beggar. Now you may draw the last cuarto from a Spaniard, and rich man, for the old leaven still will concede to him the title of cavalier, hint works as powerfully never as in the time of the first Philip ; but you must And the old peasant, that he is poor, or that his blood is inferior to your own. " If I am estimation he was a held,replied, on being informed in what slight I it there is and for no am as withal, a but, barbarian, a beast, beggar ; sorry which I had reserved to remedy, I shall spend these four bushels of barley, and other in procuringbull spectacles, alleviate the misery of the holy father, dren. for the queen and the convenient diversions, wife, princes my chilyoung my of I better is the wine ! of than The water Beggar carajo my village

nation,save
was

"

Eome." the father of letter directed to the Spaniards, I see that in a late pastoral in he has of the which x'eceived treatment Eome complains Spainat the bitterly " " let he cathedrals hands of naughty men. are down," My says, my priests He self, himcurtailed.'' consoles and the of revenues are insulted, are my bishops this malice of with is effect of the the that the a few, and idea, however, of the innocent the the love nation the that him, especially peasantry, generalit}^ of who shed when of their think the tears sufferings they peasantry, pope and undeceive Undeceive their religion. Batuschca, yourself! Spainwas yourself, for you so long as she could increase her own gloryby doing so ; readyto light in losing She had but she took no pleasure battle after battle on your account. the into your coffers in to pay money no shapeof alms, expecting, objection and humility be received with the gratitude would however, that the same those who which become however, that you were accept charity. Finding, that you held Austria in neither humble nor grateful moreover, ; suspecting,

higher esteem

than

even herself,

as

banker,she shruggedup

her

shoulders,

I have already somewhat and uttered a sentence put into " "c. These four bushels of barley," the mouth of one of her children, nation what littleinterest the great body of the Spanish It is ti-uly surprising took in the late struggle ought to know ; and yet it has been called by some, who It was and principle. of religion supposedthat Biscaybetter, a war generally attached of Carlism,and that the inhabitants were the stronghold fanatically was that the which theyapprehended in danger. The truth is, to their religion, was Basquescared nothingfor Carlos or Eome, and merely took up arms to defend nand of their own. and privileges For the dwarfish brother of Ferdicertain rights a compound theyalways exhibited supreme contempt, which his character, of his If they made well merited. use of imbecilitj^ cowardice, and cruelty, it was name, merely as a cri de guerre. Much the same may be said with respect to his Spanish at least those who partisans, appearedin the fieldfor him. These, brave who were however, were of a widelydifferent character from the Basques, The soldiers and honest men. composed Spanish ai-mies of Don Carlos were shalled Valencians and Mauchegans,who, marof thieves and assassins, entirely chiefly tracted took advantage of the disunder two cut-throats, Cabrera and Palillos, and massacre the honest part of the community. state of the countiy to plunder the less said the of whom With respect to the Queen Regent Christina,
similar to that which

the better,

reins of government fell into her hands and with them the command The of the soldiery.
more

on

respectable partof

the decease of her husuand, the Spanish

and nation, execrated

both factions. Oft when I the villager of Old or New on Castile,

the honourable and toil-wora peasantry,loathed and especially the frugalfare of at nightfall was sharing the distant shot of the Christino heai'ing

soldier or Carlist bandit,he would

not suna.

invoke

curses

on

the

heads

of the

two

tenders, pre-

the holy father and the goddess of Rome, Maria Santisforgetting when roused,he would start Then, with the tiger energy of the Spaniard

hi

vi

PREFACE.

" ! I vnsh to enlist to the plain to the plain, up and exclaim, Vamos, Dou Jorge, therefore, to the Avith you, and to learn the law of the English. To the plain, of Ingalaterra." to-nioi-row, to circulate the gospel plain

Amongst the peasantry of SpainI found my sturdiest supporters; and yet the holy father supposes that the Spanish labourers are friends and lovers of his. Batuschca ! Undeceive yourself,
of what befell account But to return to the present work : it is devoted to an With the Scripture. in Spainwhilst engaged in distributing respectto my I but and that wish here I to observe, accomplished labours, very little, poor and triumphs indeed I into sent that I lay claim to no brilliant successes was ;
me

Spainmore to explorethe country, and to ascei-tainhow far the minds of the than for any other to receive the truths of Christianity, peoplewere prepared of the kind assistance I friends, however, permission obtained, through object ; edition of the sacred volume drid, at Mafrom the Spanish government to print an and in the provinces. circulated in that capital which I subsequently others who wrought good service in in Spain there were During my sojourn to be silentin a work of effortsit were the Gospel cause, and of whose unjust refuse merit its meed ; and, Base is the heart which would this description. flow from a however can insignificant may be the value of any eulogiumwhich with from esteem like I refrain and a few mentioning mine, cannot respect pen A zealous with Irish of connected names gentleman, the Gospel enterprise. with in diifusing the of Graydon,exerted himself name diligence indefatigable a nd shores of in the province Catalonia, of of Scripture alongthe southern light ISIessrs. Eule and Lyon, during Spain; whilst two missionaries from Gibraltar, So much entire year, preachedEvangelictruth in a church at Cadiz. cess sucone brave disciples of the immortal Wesley, attended the efforts of these two last, had they not been silenced, for supposing and that there is every reason that, the countiy, by the pseudo-liberal faction of the Mobanished from eventually would by this time derados,not only Cadiz,but the greater part of Andalusia, and have discarded for ever the have confessed the pure doctrines of the Gospel, last relics of popish superstition. I\Iore immediately and myself, connected with the Bible Society I am most of Luis de Usoz y Rio, the scion of an of speaking happy to take this opportunity ancient and honourable of Old Castile, my whilst editing the coadjutor family in residence Spanish New Testament at Madrid. Throughout my Spain I mark from of this who, during tlie experienced friendship gentleman, every o f in absence the a nd and numerous periods my provinces, longjourneys, my in cheerfully supplied my placeat Madrid, and exerted himself to the utmost the views of motive than the other Bible i nfluenced a forwarding Society, by no that its efforts would the a nd contribute to hope eventually peace, happiness,
civilization of his native land. In conclusion, I beg leave to state that I am of the various ftxults aware fully of the presentwork. It is founded on certain journals and iiiaecuracii's which 1 in and written in letters friends to my numerous keptduringmy stay Spain, which had the the kindness to restore ; England, they subsequently greaterpart, of descriptions of scenery, however, consisting Ix'en from supplied

which ])laces,

has character, iS:c., of instances I have omitted the names I have either forgotten, I am uncertain. or of whose orthography
sketches of

memory.

In various

it at present exists, written in a solitary hamlet in a remote was I had neither books to consult, nor friends of whose part of England, where avail myself,and under all the aisadopinionor advice I could occasionally

The

work,

as

vantages v.'hicharise from enfeebled health

ten) experienced

have, however, on

recent

sion, occa-

nnicli of the
to

Britxiinand America, for

aud good spirit,

shrink

from

of and generosity lenity againexposing myselfto

both of the public, its gaze; and trust

volumes that,if in tlie jjresent for

it find but littleto

mc admire, it will give

credit

down noughtin setting

malice.

JVov. 2(i, 1642.

CONTENTS.

CHAI"TER
Man Overboard
"

I.

CHAPTER

VIL
The Evils

"

The

Tagus"
"

Foreign
of in
"

guages LanLisbon tugal Porde Col-

The

Druids'

Stone
Soldiers
"

"

Young
of War Watch Times and
"

Spaniard^l-lstremo^
Tower
"

Gesticulation

Streets tolerated

Ruffianly
""

"

"

The
"

Aqueduct
Cintra
" "

"

Bible Don

The

Brawl of

Ruined
"

Sebastian with
a
"

John
"

Glimpse

Spain

Old

New

So

Castro
hares
"

Conversation Mafra
" "

Priest The

Its

Palace
"

master School-

CHAPTER
Elvas
"

VIII.
"

The
"

Portuguese
Rural

Their
"

Ignorance
The Alempage
1

Scripture tejo
of

Priesthood

The Extraordinary Longevity lish EngPortuguese Ingratitude Illiberality Fortifications Spanish Beggar The 40 Custom-House Badajoz Nation
" " " "

"

"

CHAPTER
Boatmen Stream Robbers
teer
" "

II. CHAPTER IX. the

of

the

Ta^us

"

Dangers
The
of
"

of

the
"

Aldea
"

Gallega"
"

Hostelrv
a

Badaioz
I
X
"

"

Antonio
"

Gypsy

"

Antonio's

Saboclia

Adventure Ladroes
"

iMuleUero-

ProDosal

The

Estalagera
"

de

uon

Kreai"Ja.st."

Proposal accepted" Gypsy b .dajoz Tlie Departure from

" "

nimo Swine

Vendas of the V^onved of the

Novas

Swavne
Children ducees

Royal Kesi^ence Moro Alemtejo" Monte Singular Goatherd

"

G\psv
"

Uonkev

Merida f he
-

"

The of the

Ruined tlie

Wall Moor
"

"

The

Crone Black

"

Land Life in

"

The

Men

Desert"

The
4^

Fields"

Infidels

and

Sad8

Supper
CHAPTER
X.
"

CHAPTER

III.

The ContrabanFountain of

Shopkeeper
distas
"
"

at

Evora and

"

Spanish
"

Lion in

Unicorn

The

Gypsy's Granddaughter The Alguazil The Arrival Trot at Trujillo

" "
" "

Assault

riage Proposed MarSpeedy Night and Rain

"

"

The !
"

Forest

"

The
"

Bivouac The

"

Mount
"

and valier Ca"

Trust

the

Almighty
at
"

"

Distribution
"

Tracts" The "The Monkish Auto

tt

Library
as a

Evora The

Manuscript
infamous Charm"
"

away
"

Jaraicejo
Balmerson
"

National the is Truth

The

Bible Man

Guide

Marv
The An of

Among
What

Thickets ?
"

Serious

Discourse

"

pected Unex52

of

Palmella"
"

The
"

System
da-fe
" "

Men

Volney Sunday from Spain" Reading

"

Intelligence
CHAPTER XI. Wolves Death and

Tract

New

Arrival

The

Herb

mary Rose14

The

Pass

of Mirabete"

Shepherds
The Dark Abar"

"Female

Subtlety"
solved The
"

by
the
"

Wolves" The

CHAPTER Vexatious Murdered

on
"

IV.
Drunken Driver Lamentation
"

Mystery
Hour"
"

The

Mountains of

Traveller

Night"
Force

Delays
Miile
the

"

The
"

benel" The

Hoarded

Treasure Arrival

of Gold"
62
. .

"

The Heath
"

venture Ad-

Archbishop"
CHAPTER

at Madrid

Fear The

of

Darkness
"

Portuguese Fidalgo
Lisbon

Escort

Return
20

XII.
"

to

Lodging
of Execution

at

Madrid
"

My
"

Hostess
"

"

British
"

Ambassador

Mendizabal

Baltazar Blood" Madrid Classes" Gitano

.
"

ties DuThe The The

.

CHAPTER The

V.

a
"

National

Young Population of
The The Lower

Rector Shibboleth The College Youthful National Sports Prejudices Crime and Jews Lisbon of tion Supersti" " " " " "

Hi";her
Bull

Orders"

Fighter"

Crabbed

Oy

25

CHAPTER

XIII.

CHAPTER ^Id of

YI. sation Senprevented vent Dog" The ConMoorisli Landscape

"

Intrigues

at

Courtof the

Quesada
Cortes"
"

and Tlie Tlie

Galiano

"

Dissolution

Secretary"
Council of Tliieves Lucerne
"

Portugal
of
"

"

Extortion

Aragonese
Trent
" "

Pertinacity
Asturian" Mol
"

Loneliness"

The

The

The Men

Three of

Ench-\nf
"

ing

"

Benedict Treasure

The

Fortresses

Prayer

for the

Sick

30
.

The

"5

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER State of
"

XIV.
"

CHAPTER of the

XXIV.
"

Spain
I'he

"

Isturitz

Revolution
"

chief Signs of MisNewspaper Reporters- Quesada's of Closing; Scene Onslaui,'ht- The Fli",'ht

(iranja
"

Disturbance

Departure By-path
Water"

from
"

Narrow and

Astorga The Escape

"

Venta
The
"

"

Cup

Ths of
"

Sun of

Shade"
"

Bembibre

vent Con-

"

"

the Moderados"

The

ColVee

Bowl

...

82

the Rocks Midnight Adventure" CHAPTER

Cacabelos Sunset" Villafranca 136

.
.

XXV.

CHAPTER The Steamer

Arrival
at
"

XV. Finisterra The New

"

Cape
Cadiz
"

The

Storm
"

The Villafranca" Frontier The

Pass" Guard

GalleganSimplicity"
"

The
"

"

Testament
"

Gallegan
Host and

Peculiarities
"

The Seville" Italica Amphitheatre The 13aron Taylor Prisoners The Encounter Street and Desert "The 88
"

"

Guests

Courier Andalusians
"

Word A Wretched

Horse-shoe guage"The Lanon

"

Cabins
. . . .

"

143

CHAPTER

XXVI.

CHAPTER

XVr.
Carmona The
"

Departurefor
Colonies"

Cordova"
"

"

German

A Baths" Lugo" The Three guelets" The

Family History" MiHeads

"

Farrier

"

Lan"rua^'e
"

Sluggish Horse
"

"Nocturnal Welcome Good Advice Gomez The Two Opinions CHAPTER

"

The

Carlist Landlord Old Genoese

"

English Squadron" Sale of Testaments Coruna The Recognition Luigi Piozzi The Speculation" A Blank Prospect" John
"
"

"

"

94

Moore

149

CHAPTER
X\1I.
"

XXVn. Romero
" "

Cordova

"

Moors
"

An Old Priest Dovecote The

"

of Barbary The Roman

"

The

English Breviary The

" " "

Compostella Rey
"

The

Treasureof

seeker

"

Hopeful
"

Project
Riches" The

Refuge" Hidden

Ciiurch The The Canon

"

rit Spi156

of

secration DeHoly Office Judaism of Localism The Dovecotes Innkeeper's James

"

Leper"
XXVIH.

Bonos

of Saint

Proposal
CHAPTER XVni. The Arrival

100

CHAPTER

Skippers
Cotitrabandista at ^Madrid 106
.

Departurefrom
"

Cordova"
"

of Pontevedra Barber
"

Padron The
"

"

Caldos

Notary
"

de los Public

Reyes
"

"

Insane

Jewish

Cunning
CHAPTER

XIX.
Maria Diaz"
"

guage Gallegan LanThe Vigo Stranger Jews of the Desert Bay of Vigo Sudden 163 Interruption The Governor An
"

Introduction

Afternoon

Ride

"

"

"

"

"

"

Arrival
"

at

Madrid
"

"

Printing of
CHAPTER Arrival
at Padron
"

the Testament Steed Servant Antonio

My Project Andalusian wanted" An Application Buchini General Cordova" ciples Prin" "

XXIX.

"

Projected Enterprise"The
of The Promise
" "

of Honour CHAPTER Illness" The Nocturnal Visit

"

108

Alquilador Companion
"

Breach
"

An

Odd

Plain
"

The

Desertion The

XX.
A Master
"

Story Rugged Paths Pony A Dialogue

" "

t^npleasant Situation
Mind Hut"

Estadea The The Travellers

"

"

nightedBePil169

Wliisper Spanish
"
"

Salamanca Soldiers

Irish

tality Hospi114

low

"

The

Scriptures
Autumnal

advertised CHAPTER XXI.

"

CHAPTER

XXX. Tlie World's

" "

^lorning
" "

"

End"
"

Cor-

cuvion Outer Where

Departure from Pitifgua Tlie

"

ation"

Tlio
"

Reception at Dilemma Sudden InspirGood of Presbyter"Combat

"

Salamanca

The Cape A Duyo Tlie Bay" The Arrest Calros Hard Rey
" "

Whale The gistrate Fisher-Maof Belief

" "

Quadrupeds Spain" The

"

Irish Catalans

Cliristians
"

"

The

Fatal

Plains of Pool
" "

mighty
Grand

is your Liberal Baiutliam

Passport .' Tlie Beach

"

"

The
"

Handmaid
Book
"

"

Eccentric

The pitality Hos177

\'alla(l()lid ("irculation Missions Piiilippino

"

of the

Scripture
"

Imglish College
. .

CHAPTER Corufia
"

XXXI.

Conversation

"

The

Gaolercss

.118

Crossing the
"

Bay
we

"

Ferrol
now

"

The Greek

CHAPTER

XXII.

Dock-Yard Ambassador
"

Where
"

are

.'
"

-yptThe The I'he Fall" Fii Palencia" Biig-Mge Ponv" Tiu" Look-out Ciirlist I'ricsfs I'ricstly Antonio alarmed Heat Sincerity Leon
"
"

"

Lantern- Light--The Ravine Viveiro" Marsh und Evening Quagmire Fair Words Fair Money and I'he Leatheru Girth Eyes of Lynx- -The Knavish ...."....' Guide 186
"

"

"

"

"

"

and

Dust CHAPTER XXIII. The

127

CHAPTER Martin
"

XXXII.
"

Astortra" The
of the

Inn"

Mnragatos" Habits
Statue
. . .
.

Marayatos-Tho

i;i3

of Rivadeo The Factious Mare AsLuaroa Tlie Seven Bellotas Hermits Tlie .\sturian"s Tale Strange The Big Servant Guests" Batuschca 193
turians
" " " "
"

"

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER Oviedo
"

XXXIII. Gentlemen
"
"

CHAPTER
The Swiss llobbers
" "

XLIII.

The

Ten

Modest Request EpiscopalBenevolence Portrait of Feijoo

again

"

"

The The Cathedral

199

Villa Seca" Moorish House" The Puchera" The Rustic Council Polite Ceremonial Tlie Flower of Spain" The Bridgeof Azeca The Ruined Castle Taking the FieliJ Demand for the Word Tlie Old Peasant
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

CHAPTER

XXXIV.
"

The the
" "

Curate

and

Blacksmith"

Cheapness

of

Scriptures
CHAPTER
XLIV
"

249

Departure
Yount;
The
"

from

Man

General To-morrow
"

Oviedo Villa Viciosa The Tale of the Inn Antonio's and his Family" Wofiil Tidings
"

we

Die

"

San
"

^incente
Flinter

"

Aranjuez"
"

Santander Irishman

An

Harangue

the
204

A fresh

Factious of

Warning A Night Adventme Expedition" Segovia Abades Curas Rescue Lopez in Prison
" "

"

"

Lopez
CHAPTER

256

CHAPTER

XXXV.

XLV.
"

Departure from
The Black

Santander

"

The

NightAlarm
210

Pass CHAPTER XXXVI. The New Bookseller

Return Dream

to

cutor" Spain" Seville A hoary PerseManchegan Prophetess" Antonio's

261

State of Affairs at Madrid

"

IMinistry
Work
"

CHAPTER

XLVI.
"

"Pope
"

of Rome Sword Blades

"

"

Forlorn
Another

Gypsy
Servant

"

of Toledo Houses of Toledo The Proceedings at Madrid

"

The

2 la

of Distribution resumed Adventure at Cobenna Power of the Clergy Rural Authorities Fuentela Higuera Victoriano's
" " " "

Mishap" Village PrisonCHAPTER

Euscarra Tartar
"

Tlie
at Mass

Rope
....

"

nio's Anto264

XXXVII
not

Erra"ad
"

"

Antonio

Basque
Dialects
" "

Irish Vowel
"

Sanscrit

and
"

CHAPTER Termination the

at

XLVII.
"

Language

pular Poof
"

Poetry
"

The

Basques Their

Persons
217

our

Basque

Women

Clergy
Madrid"

Rural Labours Alarm of New Experiment Success

" "

of Office Goblin-Alguazil"Statr

CHAPTER The of Prohibition"

XXXVIII.

The

Pope Gospel persecuted Charge

"

Corregidor An in England
"

Explanation
Testament

"

The
pounded ex-

"

Works

New of Luther

269

Sorcery" Ofalia
CHAPTER XXXIX

221

CHAPTER

XLVIII. The dian Guar"

Projected Journey
"

The
to

Two
"

Gospels" The Alguazil" The

The
"

Good

Maria

"

llie Arrest

"

Warrant Sent
"

Friar Trees

"

Seville and

A Scene of Blood Beauties of Se\ille Flowers Murillo The

" "

"

Orange

"

"

Prison The Prison

The Reflections Reception Room Redress demanded 224

" "

Angel
Demand

"

Dionysius My
"

Coadjutors
274

for the Bible

CHAPTER
falia" The Son Juez
"

XL. de la Corte Sunday Dress Father and Behaviour The

" "

CHAPTER
The
"

XLIX.

"

Carcel

in Prison
"

Robber Characteris'ic
"

"

Frenchman
the Sliadow
"

Prison Allowance Valley of Pure Castilian" Balseiro The

"

"

Dehesa The Johannes SolitaryHouse ville Bookselling at SeChrysostom Manuel Dionysius and the Priests Athens ments and Rome" Proselytism Seizure of Testa279 Departure from Seville
" " " "
" "

"

....

Cave

"

Robber

Glory
XLI.

230

CHAPTER
CHAPTER

L.
"

Night
"

Maria Diaz Priestly Vituperation Antonio's Visit Antonio at Service" A Scene dict BeneMol Wandering in Spain The Four
"
" " " "

Evangiles
CHAPTER liberation
from
"
"

the Guadalquivir Gospel Light on iSonanza Strand of San Lucar Andalusian Cosas de los Scenery History of a Chest Ingleses The Two Gypsies Tlie Driver BoatSteam The Red Nightcap" The
"
" " "

"

"

"

"

238

Christian

Language
CHAPTER
LI.

284

XLII.
"

Nature
"

Prison The man Apology HuThe Greek's Return Church

"

Cadiz"

of Rome" Light of Scripture" Archbishop of Toledo An Interview" Stones of Price A Resolution The Foreign Language
"
" "

Benedict's

Farewell"

Treasure and Fiction

Hunt
. . .

at 242

Consul-GeThe The Fortifications" Catalan Anecdore Characteristic neral Guzman Steamer Trafalgar Alonzo Gibil Muza Orestes Frigate The Hostile Lizard of the Lion Works of the CreJitor ters"Broken of the WaRock" The Concourse" Queen
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Truth Compostella"

Prayer

290

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

LII.

CHAPTER

LV.

The

Jolly
Portrait
"

Hosteler
"

Aspirants
Solomons
"

for

Glory
An

A
"

The

Mole" House
"

The
of

Two God
"

Moors" British Moorish

Pjmah
Consul

of

gier TanCuri.

Hamalos The
"

"

dition Expetions"The Excavaous

"

Yeoman Pull

Soldier
"

The Skirt" Judah The Judah

"

Spectacle
Ave
"

The
"

House
"

Joanna
315

by

the

and

Correa

Maria

his Beard

Father
"

Judah's The False Premature

Pilgrimage"
Moors Old

Bushy
and the
.298
. .

"

CHAPTER

LVI.

King's

Son"

Age

Tlie

Mahasni
"

Sin Saints
"

Samani
"

The the

Bazaar
"

CHAPTER
St.
"

UII.

Moorish

See Jewish

Ayana!
The
"

The
"

Prickly
Genoese Mariners Abysses
"

Fi;:
"

Graves

Place of

of the
319

Michael's
American

Cave
"

night MidCarcases
"

The Dar

Stable

Boy
'. .

Horses
"

Young Fairy

A
"

Slave Moslem"

Proprieto'r"

Dwag
.

The

Man"

Infidelity

306

CHAPTER

LIV.

CHAPTER

LVH.

Again Hadji

on

Board
"

The Sail
"

Strange
TJie Two Adun
"

Visage
Jews
"

Tlie
"

Strange
ing
" "

Trio" Moors

The of

Mulatto"
Vive
"

The la

Peace-ofer-

"

Setting
Vessel
"

rican AmeThe
"

Granada Pascual

Guadeloupe
Blind

Tangier
Forbidden

Oulem

The rine"

Moors"

Fava
"

Alge324

Struggle"

The

Thing
. .
.

310

Tne

Retreat

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN,

CHAPTER

I.

Mm

overboard"

The Bible
a

Tagus
tolerated
"

"

Foreign
in

Languages
"

"

Gesticulation Don
"

"

Streets John
"

of de

Lisbon
"

"

The

Aqueduct
with Their

"

Portugal
"

Uintra Its

"

Sebastian The

"

Castro

sation Conver"

Priest
of

Colhares
"

Mafra

"

Palace
"

Schoolmaster

The

Portuguese

Ignorance

Scripture

Rural

Priesthood

The

Alemtejo.

On

the

morning
I found

of the

10th

of November, off the

dream.
of

I shall he
cast

never

forget
the The
was

the

look

coast myself of Galicia, whose loft}' mountains, gilded by the rising sun, presented a bound I was magnificent appearance. for Lisbon passed Cape Finisterre, ; we and, standing farther out to sea, speedily On lost sight of land. the morning of the 11th the was sea rough, and very

1835,

agony
and it
was

whilst

steamer
was

hurried

past

him.

alarm in
at

given,
;

everything
two
was was a

sion confufore be-

minutes

least

the time
astern

vessel
man

stopped, by which
considerable way my he eye
was

the
;

still, however,
and could
see

kept
that

upon

him,

remarkable
was
on

circmiistance
the of but the

occurred,

forecastle, discoursing
sailors
:

with
who

two

one

had
"

just left
had much
a

his

of them, hammock,

the struggling gallantly with waves. A boat llie at length lowered, but was rudder was unfortunately not at hand, and could be oai's only two procured,
with which the in
men
so

said,
which

I I do

have
not

strange
like
to ;

dream, for," continued

mast, from
"

could

make
sea.

but

little progress
did their within still

rough

They
had
rived ar-

he, pointing
dreamt
that cross-trees." He of the

up I fell into
was

the
sea

best, however,
ten

and

the heard

the

yards
for and

of the

man,

who I lost

to

say this

by
A

several
moment

crew

besides

myself.
sel, veswas

struggled sight of him ;

return,
and said
at

his

life,when
men,
on

the

their below

after,the
that ordered

captain
the the

of the

that

perceiving
taken several

squall
this
man,

creasing, inthe
to

water,

they saw glimpses, sinking deeper

him

topsails
aloft

be

in, whereupon others, instantly ran

in when the
a

with
;

the

stretched deeper, his arms out, and his body apparently stiff, but that they found it impossible to save him: sently pre-

yard was doMTi,

whirled
man was

act

of

being
gust
from
was

hauled of wind and

crossa

after, the
the prey which

sea,

as

if satiiified with

sudden with down

sea,

it had
calm. in this
man a

acquired, became
The poor fellow
manner

it round
struck the

violence,
the

comparatively who perished

was
a

singular
of

trees

into

which In
a

working
time the he
crest

fine
son

like

yeast
; I

below.
saw

short
on

the
was

only
the

young of

twenty-seven,
mother
;

widowed
on

he

emerged
of the
a

his

head

best

sailor
all

billow,
moments

and

instantly recognised
man

in
a

beloved with him.

by
of

who
event

board, and was acquainted were

occurred
on

unfortunate

the

sailor

who,

This

the

few

before,

had

related

his

11th

Novembtn-,

1835;

the

vesse.:

THE tlie London Merchant

are

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
dialects of the

[chap. 1.
east and

was

steam-ship.languagesand
of

Truly
That

"wonderful
!

the ways

able to make vidence the west, I am Prosoon rayself quite to the inhabitants. intelligible

I found myself conversing snme night we entered the In about a fortnight with considerable in Portuguese Tagus, and dropped anchor before the of Belem ; early the next old tower fluency. themselves who wish to make Those moniing we weighed, and, proceeding in understood onward about a league, chored we again anby a foreigner his own
at
a

short

distance hours of which

from of

the

Caesodre, or principal quay

Here
enormous
we

Lisbon.
Rainha times

language should speak with much noise and vociferation, opening liieirmouths
wide. Is it surprising that the

lay for
black man-of-war

some

beside the
the

English

hulk

Nao,

in old

the worst in linguists are, in general, the world, seeing that they pursue a For ? diametrically opposite when to example, speak they attempt Spanish the most sonorous tongue in existence theyscarcely open their lips, their hands in their pockets, and,putting fumble instead of applying them lazily, office of gesticulato the indispensable tion. Well the poor Spaniards may exclaim, Tliese English talk so crah-

the eye of Nelson, that he so captivated fain have would procured it for his native

system

country.
the

She

was,

long
been

quently, subse-

"

admiral's

shipof the Mihad tured cap-

"

squadron,and guelite
by
the

Napier about three gallant the I time of which to years previous am speaking.
The caused other
assert

Kainha him
more

Nao

is said than

to

have all the

trouble

that bedlij, able

to

still Lisbon is a huge ruinous city, in almost direction, exhibiting, eveiy the reof that terrific visitation of the vestiges tho old vixen sult displayed, queen which decided the shattered of the battle which God, the earthquake, fate of Portugal would have been widely it some eightyyears ago. It stands on
^licniselv. s with half the

vessels of the enemy some ; and that, had the others defended

would Satan himself understand them,

not

be

fury

which

different. I found be the

a

seven

matter

disembai-kation at Lisbon of considerable vexation

officers examined
were

to ;

the loftiest of which is occupied hills, by the castle of Saint George, is the boldest and
most

which the

nent promi-

custom-house

ingly exceed-

uncivil,and
of my first little

baggage

ticle everj- arwith most

to the eye, whilst surveying oliject the Tagus. The from most city

provokingminuteness. My
the

and frequented busy parts those are comprisedwithin

of the the

city valley

impressionon
was ;

landing in
invans a

Peninsula
one

by
I
one

r.o

to tlie north of tliiselevation. vourable Here fafind the Plaza of the Inquisition, you

and

had hour

scarcely
before I from which

the which

pressed the
a

soil

run or

principal square in Lisbon, towards the parallel,

four

wished heartily

gold and silver, from dt'signated being inhabited by friends and warm left cherished tions. smiths cunning in the working of those affecmetals ; they are, upon the whole, very ill magnificent. The After havi\ig submitted to much houses are huge, and robbery at the citstom-house, and as usage high as castles. Immense lars piland I proceeded in quest of a lodging, defend the causeway at intervals, and expenat last found however, rather a cumbrous one, but dirty ])roducing, sive. liired The I next effect. These a servant, streets are day quite level, aiul are well paved, in which a Portuguese, it being my invariable respect bon. on custom, arrivingin a country, to they differ from all the others in Lisavail myselfof the services of a native, ever, The most singular street, howwith the view of ])'rfeeting of all is that of the Alemcrin, or cbietly self myin the language; aiid, the debouches on beingalready Ivosemary,which with of the most Caesodre'. It is and "cuaaiuted principal \ery precipitous,
country
month
are one

which

myself back in Paissia, about I luul quitted

where I had

river, three
so

streets, amongst

those of the

previous,and

CHAP.

I.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

is

either side by the palaces Spainhad hitherto been a region barred on occupied of the Bible ; not the admission the principal Portuguese nobility, against tion, but grand and so massive and frowning, Portugal,where, since the revoluwith here and there both the Bible had been permitted edifices, picturesque and circulated. Little, the street to be introduced a hanginggarden, overlooking fore, at a great height. however, had been accomplished ; therebon LisWith all its ruin and desolation, finding myself in the country, I the most able remarkto effect someis unquestionably thing determined, if possible, in the way but of distribution, in the Peninsula, and, perhaps, city first of all to make in the south of Europe. It is not my myselfacquainted details far the peoplewere intention to enter into minute as to how disposed shall content myself to receive the Bible,and whether the concerningit; I would perin general that it is quiteas much with remarking, state of education mit artist it much account. attention of the them turn to the to as deserving of Bibles and Testaments liome itself. True it is that though 1 had plenty even it has no gibut could the people it abounds with churches at my gantic disposal, would read like St. t o tract ator them, cathedral, Peter's, they? A friend I was mended recomthe eye and fill it with wonder, of the Societyto wliom Lisbon from is absent there that at the I no was ment monuyet boldlysay arrival I this of of man's labour and skill, regretted, ing pertainperiod my ; of either to ancient for whatever
can
mean or

modern

Rome,

as

he time wait

could have
hints. In

afforded

me

several that
not

purpose rival the water- works the

which designed, of Lisbon

useM
no

ceed proI the valley to the to gather the best information I have charges discould upon those points to which north-east of Lisbon, and which alluded. I determined to comlicious its littlerunnel of cool and demence already arches principal
cross

; I whose stupendousaqueduct

to

order, however, I determined be lost, might but at once for his arrival,

researches at into the rocky cistern some water slight my distance from Lisbon, beingwell aware that beautiful edifice called the ideas that I must form all of the erroneous Mother of the Waters, from whence in general, should I the crystal of the Portuguese Lisbon is suppliedwith is seven judge of their character and opinions lymph, though the source within distant. Let leagues entire morning one Arcos which church and the Mai travellers
to

devote

from
so

what

the inspecting agoas, after the English

much

and heard in a city I saw course. to foreignintersubjected

das

tliey may

repairto

where, miniature,

they
the of
"

and cemetery, Pere-la-Chaise in if theybe of England, if they kiss well be excused may I did, of the author
most

first excursion was to Cintra. If in the world entitled there be any place enchanted of an gion, reto the appellation

My

it is

cold

tomb, as Amelia," the

beavitiful and
who

surely Cintra; Tivoli is place,but picturesque

from the the mind

it

singular genius quickly fades

have
seen

of those

which works

their island ever produced, whose it has long been the fashion to

Portuguese Paradise.

When for
more a

abuse in publicand to read in secret. In the same cemetery rest the mortal remains author of of another Doddridge,
a

moment

of Cintra, it nmst not spealcing that nothing be supposed than the littletown or the be understood

is meant

English

city ; by Cintra must

admired
on

different stamp, but justly entire region,town, and esteemed. tended, I had not inforests, crags, Moorish
to disembarking,

palace,quintas,
denly ruin,M^hich sudview
on

remain

long

burst

on

the

rounding

in

Lisbon,nor

indeed

in

destination was

whither Spain,

proposed to
to

direct my the intention of the Bible

commence

my I shortly steps, it being

to Society tempt at-

Portugal;

the side of a bleak, savage, and sterile Notliing is more looking mountain. western than the southsullen and uninviting
on

operationsin

that

aspect of the stony wall which, to shield the side of Lisbon, seems
from othc the eye of the world, but of side is a mingled scene
b2

of which should be country, the ooject the distribution of the word of God, for

Cintra the

THE

BTBT.K

IN
to

SPAIN.

[CIIAP.
; I found

fairv

artificial elegance, beauty, savage

regret doing so
communicative. After
to

him

afl'able
;

grandeur,
is met
sun.

domes,

turrets,

enormous
as

and the

trees, flowers, and

-with nowhere Oh ! there
are

waterfalls,such
else beneath

the beautyof the sur1 praising made I some inquiiyi roundingscenery,

as

objects at
and and that wonderful The wliich them. ruin
covers

derful strange and wonCintra, and strange

the state

of education

amongst the
He

people under
that he in
a

his

care.

answered,
.

recollections attached
on

to

that

loftypeak,

part of the side of the once precipitous steep, was

sorry to say that they were of gi-eatignorance, very few of the common people being able either ! write ; that with respect to to read or
was

state

of the Lusitanian principal stronghold Mooi-s, and thither, long after they had at a of disappeared, particularmoon wild wont to were repair every year, of Maugrabie, to pray at the santons
tomb

schools,there
where the four
or

was

but that

one

in the
were

place,

five children
even

taught
was

alphabet,but

this

at

ever, present closed ; he informed me, howthat there was school at Cola

distant. Amongst a league he said that nothingmore things, grey witnessed the assemblage of the last surprised him than to see Englishmen, held by the boy-king Sebastian, the most cortes learned and intelligent people he departed his romantic in the world, visiting ere tra, on a placelike Cindition expethe Moors, Avho so well where there was no against literature, nor avenged their insulted faith and country science, (coisa any thingof utility at Alcazarquibir ; and in that low shady que presto). I suspect that there was embowered satire in the last speechof covert quinta, amongst those tall some dwelt John de Castro, the worthy priest once alcoruoques, however, ; I was, the strange old viceroy of Goa, who Jesuitenough to appear to receive it as pawned the hairs of his dead son's a high compliment,and, takingoff my beard raise money to to with an infinity of bows. repair the hat, departed ruined wall of a fortress threatened That same by day I visited Colhares, a tlie heathen of Ind; those crumbling romantic villageon the fid.- of the
a

of

famous

Sidi, who
That

slumbers

hares,about
other

amongst

the

rocks.

palace

stones

which

stand

before
"

the

portal,

mountain

of

Cintra, to

the north-west.

deeply graven, not with runes," but things equally dark, Sanscrit rhymes from the Vedas, were brought by him
from bis
a
m

Seeingsome peasants collected round a smithy, I inquiredabout the school, whereupon one of the men instantly
conducted into
a me

Goa,

the

most

brilliant had

scene

of

thither. with
a row

I went dozeu but

before glory,
an

Portugal

become

small

apartment, where
about
;
a

up stairs I found

base

.he

kingdom ; and down that dingle, tlie master in a])rupt roclcy standing promontory, stand ruined halls of the English ^lil- in the room,
there
a

pupils
stool

saw

one

Mcnaire, who
and

nursed
as scenes

the

ward wayshowed

me,

and to that, after havingembraced with gn he conducted me

some

fancies of

mind the

wild,rich, civility. After

around.
me

discourse which he
u^i \

the as varit'g-ated
are

the

books

Yes, wonderful
meet

the
are

eye at the recollections of Cintra

objectsAvhich ful Cintra,and wonderattached

to

for the instruction of the

were

tli: children.; y of the

saii.e

nuich spelling-books,
as

kind in

those used it was his the

in the my

schools village

them. The
_

England.

Upon

asking him
of the dren, chil-

town

contains Tlie

al)out
ing morn-

whether

to placethe practice

eighthundred
akmt
to

inhabitants.

in Scriptures the

hands
me

to subsecjueiit

sufficient intelligenee theyhad acquired removed purpose of examiningthe Moorisli ruins, to understand them they were I obsi-rvid a p.-rson advancingtowards their in order that they by parents, whoni I judged by his dress to be uu.' miglitassist in the labours of the field, the ecclesiastic ; lie was in fact one of and that the parents in general were by three priests of the place. I stantly insolicitous that their childri n no means accosted hun, and had no reason should learn anything, as they con.^i-

ascend

my tlie mountain

arrivnl,as

I
for

was

he informed

that

long before

an

cnAP.

I.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

I would pennit him to show nui the occupiedin leaniiugas He said, village me church, which he informed squandered away. the schools were that thougli nominally was well worth seeing ; I said no, but the added, that if he would show me supportedby the government, it was could school I feel should much tain obschoolmasters that the village rarely He looked at me which to him. account with their salaries,on obliged and assured me their tliatthere had of late astonishment, resigned ments. employmany that he had a copy at the school, was He told me nothing to be seen

dered the time

so

much

of the New
which the

Testament I desired to

in
see

his
; but

sion, posseson mining exa-

which dozen

and boys,

did not contain more than half that he himself was one

it I discovered
notes.

that it was

by Pereira, with Epistles

I asked that him
was

whether harm
notes

there there

On my him, telling only of the number. copious however, that he should show me no dered other place, he at lengthunwillinglj he consiin reading attended me. On I learned the way
: no

the

without Scriptures
that
was

he

plied re-

from

him

that the schoolmaster had

was

one pelled ex-

certainly

harm

of the

friars who from

been lately

without in it, but that simple people, the help of notes, could derive but little benefit from

part would

as the Scripture, greatest be unintelligible to them ;

veiy and Greek. and the himself

the convent, that he was a learned man, and French spoke We bent much

passed a
his head it was devotion. which the then he

stone

cross,

boy
with

and

crossed

whereupon I shook hands with him, said that there was and, on departing, difficult to unso derstand no part of Scripture
as

I mention stance the first in-

this circvmistance, as
of the kind

I had observed house

rival. army Avhere

those very

notes

which

were

amongst
it it out
a

the When

Portuguesesince
near

intended would calculated In

to

to
never

elucidate
have been

it,and
wiitten

that

if not

tlie schoolmaster
to me,

resided, he pointed
hid himself hind beturn. re-

of itself to illume of all classes of mankind.

a

the minds

and

wall,where

awaited my

day

or

two

I made about

an

excursion

Mafra,

distant
:

three

leagues
the gerous dan-

from way

Cintra

the

principal part of

the threshold I was On stepping over between confronted by a short stout man,

layover

somewhat steep hills,

sixtyand seventy
dressed in
a

years

of age,
sers, trou;

for horses ; however, the place in safety. Mafra

I reached

blue

jerkin and
or

without

shirt

grey waistcoat

he

and inquired in neigh- looked at me sternly, bourhood tended inwhat of an immense French the was building, language my for intruding and palace, pleasure. I apologized to serve as a convent and which formed after the is built somewhat him, and stated that, being inupon he occupied the situation of fashion of the Escurial. In this edifice exists the finest library in Portugal, to pay taining conschoolmaster,I had come my books on all sciences and in all respectsto him and to beg permission the and well suited to the size and to ask a few questions languages, respecting ever whoof edifice which contains He that the answered, grandeur seminary.

is a

in the ^illage large

it. take

There
care

were

no as

monks, however,

to

told and then

me

he
was

was
a

schoolmastet
vent, con"

of

it,

in former f jrth, some under

bad been

driven

times ; they to beg their the banners many. about as

for that he lied,

friar of the that all the up and

;

nothing else.
I,
"

It is not
con-

bread, some
of
as

to serve

true," said
have been

Don I
was

Carlos, in

Spain,and

I vents

broken

the

banditti.

informed, to prowl I found the place abandoned to two three He or menials,and exhibiting too true." of solitude and desolation "fin aspect minute, and his
Whilst I was his angry truly appalling. viewing the cloisters, fine intelligent-lookiuii a snuff-box and

" dismissed ?" monks Yes, " with is it true he a sigh,

yes,"said
it is but
a

then

was

silent for
ing overcom-

better nature

he produceda feelings, offered

lad
the

came

up and

asked

(I suppose

in

whetheia trifle) hope of obtaining

The it to me. the of olive-branch snuff-box is the who wishes to be Portu"ruese, and he

THE
on

BIBLE
never

IN where

SPAIN.

[chap. 1.

refuse to it -when

good terms with tliem and dip his finger

offered.

must

thumb

into

huge
and
we

I took, therefore,a pinch,though I detest the dust,

were soon was on

they AA'ater their cattle,I have questioned the lower class of the of Portugal about the Scripchildren ture,
the Bible, the Old and in no one and Ncav tament, TeshaA'e instance

the best

possible
could

terms.

He

from especially told him that

eager to obtain neAvs, Lisbon and Spain. I

they known
return

what
me

was a

to, or alluding rational

answer,

the officers of the troops at Lisbon had, the day before I left that place, gone in a body to the queen, and insisted upon their swords or
;

though on
Avere

all other matters than

sensible

replies enough ; indeed, nothing

more manner

their

me surprised

the

free

and the

her

either

receiving unembarrassed
ters minishis

in which
a

her dismissing he rubbed

sure was

whereupon

hands,
would On

Portuguesepeasantry sustain and the purity of the

in which and

sation, conver-

language

they express their thoughts, read or Avrite ; of them can few yet my whei-eas the that I affairs hoAvever, saying, peasantry of England, thought the is in generalmuch of Don education whose Carlos were the decline on
and
not

said that he

matters

remain

at Lisbon. tranquil

after the death of Zuwas (this shortly he frowned, and cried malacarregui), that it could not possibly be, for that

are superior,

in their conversation
to

coarse

God

was

too

justto
who

suffer it. had been

I felt for
out

the poor man of his home

driA^n

by,

and

in the noble couA^ent close from state of affluence and a

and absurdly brutality, their in ungrammatical language, though the English tongue is upon the whole more simplein its structure than the Portuguese. and dull almost

On
friend

my

return

to Lisbon

I found
me

our

comfort

ten next ceedingly days Avere exrainy,Avhich preventedme from of furniture, I tried twice or thrice making any excursions into the him to induce about the to conA^erse our country : during this tinie I saw and had ject friend frequently, school, but he either avoided the subversations long consaid shortly that he knew nothing the best Avith him concerning or about it. On my leaving the Gospel. He of distributing him, tlie boy means from his hiding-place and rejoined thoughtwe could do no better for the came

in his old age to indigence and misery, for his present dAvellto

reduced

who
,

receiAcd

vei*y

kindly.

The

seemed ing scarcely

contain

an

cle arti-

me

; he

said that he

had

hidden

self him-

present than
the hands and
at

put part of
time the

our

stock into of

throughfear of his master's knoAving that he had broughtme to him, for that he Avas unwilling that any stranger
should knoAV the that he
was
a

of the booksellers
same

the
to

Lisbon, employ teurs colporabout the

haAvk

books

master. schoolor

I asked

I success. ture, practice,and with some Scripand ever read it ; he did not, howhad thoughts of sending colporteurs into the neighbouring to understand I must but to me. CA'er, seem villages, liere observe that the boy Avas fifteen this our friend objected. He thought in many the attempt dangerous, it Avas very spects reas years of age, that he avus and had some that the rural priesthood, who possible very intelligent, nuich influence in their knowledge of the Latin language; still ])ossessed nevertheless lie knew not the Scripture OAvn and Avho Avere for the districts, and I have no even by name, doubt, most part decided enemies to the spread from Avhat I subse(]uently the men observeil, of the Gospel, ployed emmight cause

parents were

boy whether with acquainted

he the

his

on receivinga certain profit This sold. Avas plan they every copy agreed upon, and fortliAvith put in

streets,

that at least two-thirds

are on

of

his countrymen tlie doors of the of

to

be assassinated

or

ill-treated.

that the

importantpoint no
At hearths
tics, rus-

wiser

tlian himself.

I determined, however, ere leaA'ing to estiiblish depots of liibles Portugal, in

one or

inns, at village
the
stoue

two

of ihe

in tlie fielils Avhere

they labour, at I Avished to fountains by the Avay-siile I had heard

visit the
was

tOAvns. provincial Avhich Alemtejo, rebenighted very

CHAPTER
Boatmen
Sabocha Novas
"

II.
Aldea

of
"

the

Tagus

"

Dangers
of
a
"

of the
"

Stream"

Gallega" The
Ladroes Monte
"

HostelryGeronimo
"

Robbers"
"

Adventure

Muleteer
Swine

Royal

Residence
"

of

Estalagem de the Alemtejo

" "

Don

Venda^
"

Moro

Swayne

Vonved

Singular Goatherd On
the afternoon I set out

Children

of the Fields

Infidels and

Sadducees.

which of the 6th of Decemsail without upsetting, he ber upon for Evora, accompanied laughed, and began to gabble in a most I had been informed He had the most incoherent manner. by my servant. that the tide would and rapid articulation that has for the regular harsh serve
or felouks,as they passage-boats, are
on ever come

under

called,at

about

four

o'clock; but

human

being;

my it was

observation the
scream

in any of the

reachingthe side of the Tagus opposite hyena blended with the bark of the between which to Aldea an Gallega, place terrier, though it was by no means and Lisbon the boats ply,I found index which that of his disposition, I soon the tide would found to be light, not permit them to start merry, and anything before eight o'clock. Had I waited for but malevolent for when I, in order ; them I should have probablylanded at him that I cared little about to show Aldea Gallega about midnight,and Eu que sou I Conhim, began to hum felt little inclination to make he and entree trabandista," laughed heartily, my in the Alemtejo at that hour ; therefore, said, the that me on shoulder, clapping I saw small boats which as can push he would not drown us if he could help off at any time lyingnear in abundance, it. The other poor fellow seemed by I determined to go to the bottom: no means averse hiringone of them upon for the passage, he sat at the fore part of the boat,looking though the expense would be thus considerably the image of famine,and only smiled increased. I soon lad, when the waters broke over the weather agreed with a wild-looking
"

who of
was
one

that he was in part owner me of the boats,to take me I over. of the not in aware ing crossdanger

told

side and In
a

littletime
our

that
was

his scanty habiliments. I had made up my mind last hour was come ; the wind

soaked

the short dangerous getting higher, is opposite Aldea Gallega, at any time, waves were more foamy, the boat was but especially at close of day in the its beam, and the water on frequently winter season, or I should certainly the lee side in torrents ; but not came over have ventured.
a

the

Tagus

at itsbroadest

part,which

The

lad and

his

rade, com-

still the wild

lad at the

helm

held

on,

and occasionally laughingand chattering, out part of the Miguelite yelling was a tattered jerkinand the singing trousers, air, Quando el Rey cheyou," until we rowed had advanced about of which in Lisbon is imprisonment. half a mile from the land ; they then The stream was againstus, but the and the lad,who set up a large sail, wind was in our favour,and we sprang seemed to direct everything, and to be along at a wonderfiil rate, and I sawthe principal, took the helm and steered. that our only chance of escape was in The now evening was in; the speedily setting passingthe farther bank of the its bourne in the not far from sun was Tagus, where the bight or bay at the hoi'izon ; the air was the of which stands Aldea Galcold, lega extremity very wind was and the waves of the for we should not then rising, commences, noble Tagaisbegan to be crested with have the waves to battle with of the foam. I told the boy that it was scarcely stream, which the adverse wind lashed for the boat to carry so much into fury. It was the will of the AIpassible
"

whose miserable-looking object, the season, only clothing, notwithstanding

CHAP.

II.]
to

THE

BIBLE

IN
with

SPAIN.
the

mighty

to gain permit us speedily

lad, who
us

was

his

nephew,
moon

to

but not before the boat was this shelter, nearly filled with water, and we were

accompany When

to

Evora.
was

we

the stiirted,

all wet o'clock

to

the the

skin.

At

about
we

seven

in

evening

reached

with cold and Aldea Gallega, shivering in a most deplorable plight. lage, the Galician VilAldea Gallega, or

and the morning was shining brightly, cold. We entered on soon piercingly a sandy hollow "way, emerging from which we passed by a strange-looking and large edifice, standingon a high

words are Spanish, bleak sand-hill on our left. We were is a place speedily overtaken signification,) by five or six men on I should think, about four horseback, ridingat a rapidpace, containing, dle, inhabitants. It was thousand pitchy each with a long gun slung at his sadthe muzzle dark when we landed,but rockets soon depending about two il- feet below the horse's belly. I inquired began to flyabout in all directions, wide. As of the old man what was the reason air far and of the we laniing warlike this He the street that impaved answered, dirty passedalong array. in the roads were which leads to the I^argo, or square very bad (meaning that with robbers), abounded and that the inn is situated,a horrible which they assailed armed in this of drums and went voices for manner they uproar their defence turned t he of oS all On cause ears. soon our inquiring ; they informed that it was towards Palmella, to the right this bustle,I was of the Virgin. We reached the eve of the Conception a sandy plain studded with of the peoAs it was stunted not the custom pine; the road was little ple furnish for than and as we prothe inn to more a at provisions footpath, ceeded,

(forthe

two

and

have

that

the guests,I wandered of food ; and at last of wine-house, I went peopleto let me have in
a
a

about

in search

diers a solseeingsome eatingand drinldngin a species with in and

some

and the trees thickened extended for two wood, which

became

leagues,

asked

the

in which clear spaces at intervals, herds of cattle and sheepwere feeding ; the bells attached
to their necks
were

short time

supper, and theyftimished me with for

tolerable

meal,

which, however,
a

they charged three crowns. Having engaged with

mules
to
soon

person

for
were

ringing lowly and monotonously. The sun was justbeginningto show itself; but the morning was misty and dreary, with the aspect of desolation which, together
which the

to

carry

us

to

Evora, which

country exhibited,

be

ready
retired to
same

at

five next

bed, my

unfavourable effect on morning, I had an my and walked, enterI got down servant ing sleeping spirits.
was

in the

apartment, which
in the house
vacant.

the He in

into conversation
seemed the
to

with
one

the old

man.
"

only
not

one

I closed

have the

but

theme,

the

they in the very practising with their or were almocreves, carriers, slept passing. The tales he spots we mules ; at our told were and to avoid back, in the yard,was a trulyhorrible, How ? The could I them mounted I pigsty. sleep hogs again,and rode on and the the mules in front. screamed, grunted, considerably almocreves snored In about hour and half we most an a horribly. I heard the village clock strike the hours from the and entered forest, emerged until midnight, and from till broken a midnight wild, ground, upon savage, four in the morning,when I sprang up The covered with mato, or brushwood. and began to dress, and despatched drink shallow mules at a stopped to my with the man the and on I saw sei-vant to hasten to the right looking pool, for tired I of the informed ruined wall. This, the guide mules, was a heartily placeand wanted to leave it. An old me, was the remains of Vendas Velhas, the haunt of the Old man, bony and hale, accompaniedby a or Inn, fonnerly bare-footed lad, brought the beasts, the celebrated robber Sabocha. This which sixteen were Sabocha, it seems, had, some tolerablygood. He was the proprietor of them, and intended, years ago, a band of about forty ruffians
my eyes
us

during
a

the

whole

night. robbers," and

some

atrocities

were

Beneath

was

in which stable,

habit of

10

THE who

BIB1.E

IN

SPAIN.
his revenge, or therein anticipated and the The
went

his command, at^

infested these

failed to have have been

had

would

wilds,
bocha

and

supported themselves
For
a

by

by
to

his the

plunder.

considerable time Sacomrades. pursued his atrocious trade unI dismounted suspected,
and
was

up
a

traveller

many murdered

an

unfortunate of

and place,
a

saw

of vestiges
sons

fire and

in the dead

broken been

bottle. there

nightat
side which

the

situation
never

inn by the woodsolitary he kept; indeed, a more fit for plunder and murder I The gang
were

had New

Testament

very and some

plunder lately. I left a

tracts

of

amongst

saw.

in

the

the ruins,and hastened away. had dispelled The the mists and sun
was

habit their their

of

pool, and

watering their horses at the perhapsof washing therein

stained with
;

beaming very
an a

hot

we

rode the
our

on

for

about of

hour, when
horse
was

I heard
rear, and

hands

the blood

of low fel-

in
a

our

neighing guide
hind be-

victims
was

the

lieutenant of the
of

said there
;
our

party of horsemen
were

troop

the brother

Sabocha, a

mules

good, and they

of great strength and ferocity, did not overtake us for at least twenty ticularly parfamous for the skill he posminutes. The headmost rider was a gensessed tleman in darting a long knife,with in a fashionable travelling dress
;

which his with and his

he

was

in the habit of

a transfixing

little way

behind

were

an

two officer,

opponents.

Sabocha's connexion the gang at length became known, he fled, with the greater part of the Tagus to the provinces. Himself and his lost their lives on eventually

associates, across

northern brothers the road with razed The the

a boy in livery. I heard horseman, on overtaking principal who I was, and my servant, inquiring whether French or English. He was told 1 was an velling. English gentleman, tra-

and soldiers, the

He understood I understood

then

asked

whether
man

to

Coimbra,

in

an

engagement
house
was

the Portuguese;

said

military.
order

His

by

ruins and

of the government. still frequently visited are

eat
out
a

it,but he believed that I spoke French and Italian better. The gentleman then spurred on his horse,
and

who by banditti,

and for

drink

amidst

accosted me,
or

not in

nor Portuguese,

them, place
The months

look

commands
man

view
me,

prey, as the of the road. that about

two

in French

but Italian,

in the purest

old

assured

English that I ever heard spoken by a foreigner ; it had, indeed, nothing of

pronunciationin it ; nance known, by the countespeaker, that he was no Englishman (forthere is a peculiarity in the countenance, as everybody knows, which, though it cannot be described, is sure to betray the Englishman),I
or

to Aldea on previous, returning panying Gallega with his mules from accomsome

foreign accent
and had

he had travellers,

been

I not of the

knocked

his money whom he believed

nest.

down, stripped naked, and all taken from him, by a fellow

came

from

this
was

derers' muran

He

said and

that he
man,

exceedingly powerful young

immense
was

with

should

have concluded
a

that I was We about

;

in

pany com-

mustaches with
ten
an

whiskers,and

with

countryman.
of inn

continued

armed About

or ket. musespingarda, he days subsequently

until we discoursing Pegoens consists three houses

a

arrived at

Pegoens.
two
or

saw

we
on

the robber at Vendas Novas, where should pass the night. The fellow him recognising horrid should home he
was never

and

an

there is likewise half

a

of barrack, where species soldiers of

are

took him be held

aside, and,

dozen whole
worse

statio7ied. In
is no the inn

the

with

threatened imprecations,

Portugal there

place of
is nicknamed

that he
return

permitted to
to

and reputation,
de J^stalagem

if he

attempted
his

discover
peace,
as

him;
there

therefore little to be risked have

to be
as

he would

gainedand everything in apprehending him, been speedily set at

Ladroes, or the thieves of for it is there that hostelry ; the banditti of the wilderness,which extends around it on side for every
in the habit of coming and are leagues, the the fruits of their spending money, criminal daring; there they dance and

for want liberty

nate of evidence to crimihim, and then he would not have

CHAP.

II.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

II

and of

eat fricasseed rabbits and oli'S'es, companions that my agreeable sing, have otherwise experienced. drink the muddy but strong wine

1 should in

the

Alemtejo.

An

enormous
a

fire,

Don

Geronimo

had

been

educated

fed by the trunk

of

cork-tree, was

in a niche on the left hand on blazing for his enteringthe spaciouskitchen. Close accounted several the idiom and were it, largejars, English language, seething, nunciation proby of which emitted which can no quired odour, disagreeable only be acin the country at and reminded me that I had not broken by residing now nearly that periodof one's life. He had also my fast, although it was after the usurpation ridden five fled thither shortly o'clock, and I had one the of throne of guel, Several wild-looking men, Portugalby Don Mileagues. and from thence had departed not to banditti, might who, if they were seated for where had self himmistaken the devoted he be were such, I3razils, easily
on some

England, in which his boyhood,which

passed in a certain degree in the proficiency

country he

logs

about

the fire. I asked

to

them which had the

to

the

service him and

of Don in in the the the

Pedro, and

unimportantquestions, which with readiness and civility, theyreplied

and
one

followed

expedition
downfall in of of tugal. Por-

teiminated

of them, who
a

said

he

could

read,accepted
him.

tract which

I offered

usurper, the constitutional Our

establishment

government

chiefly had been bcand and on friend,who literary political subjects, My new rather with the breakfast, my acquaintance writingsof speakuig dinner, or celebrated invited the authors with to of Portugal me most great civility, now, troduced inand light deand time hailed with the of at same was surprise partake it, for officer who is the panied accomto to me gratifying nothing more ; his brother, a Portuguese than to observe a foreigner him, and who was and also spoke English, taking an interest in the literature of though not so
well
as

conversation rolled

himself.

I found

I had

become Joze

his

of which, nation, about in the

com

in many
we

respects,
were once

acquaintedwith
at

Don brother

Geronimo

he is justly proud. At
more

d'Azveto, secretary to
Evora
; his

the government in

two

o'clock

belonged to a ters regimentof hussars, whose head-quarwere

and pursued our saddle,

way

at

Evora, but which

"

had for

lying outample, ex-

pan 3% through a country exactly that which we had previously resembling been

rugged and broken, traversing, a clump of pines. afternoon The was exceedingly fine, relieved and the bright to be a Kabbits at Pegoens seem rays of the sun standard article of food, Having beingproduced the desolation of the scene. in abundance around. advanced about two leagues, we the moors caught on the gravy of which of a largeedifice toweringmajesWe had one fried, tically sight parties along the road, the placewhere we were
ping. with here and there stopwas

and afterwards delicious,

was

a on

roasted
a

one, which entire ; the

brought up
to tear

dish

was

which I learnt distance, the farther at standing palace royal in the

her

extremity of Vendas Novas, the to pass the hands,proceeded villagein which we were than more which it to pieces, was considerably having accomplished, night; from us, yet,seen she poured over the fragments a a league through the sweet of Portugal, of both dishes, clear transparent atmosphere I ate heartily sauce. much it nearer. of last the appeared particularly ; owing,perhaps, in Before and curious to the novel manner reaching it we passedby a of which the pedestal which it was Excellent served up. stone cross, on a and from the commemorating an inscription figs, apples, was Algarves,
hostess, having firstwashed
the animal concluded
a
our room

repast,which
with
a

little side
sent

which my

such

of a native of Lisbon, horrible murder that spot ; it occurred on which had a floor, covered with and was chill into looked ancient, piercing
we

ate

in

mud

system, as
that

preventedme from my pleasui'e

from

rivingmoss, de-

and

the
was

scription greater part of the inat illegible,

fare and

least it

was

12

THE
who could not bestow much

BIBLE
time
at

IIN SPAIN.
grows and that kind of sweet

[chap. II.
aconi a

to me,
on

called

its deciphering.Having
new

arrived

which bolotas, which food of the bodies and

can on

is pleasant as winter which the

chestnut,
the

Vendas

Novas, and bespoken

friend and
the

supper, built in presents its

in supplies

cipal prinswine

my

myself strolled
it
was

numerous

forth to view

palace;

by

the late

king

and of Portugal,

Alemtejo subsist. Gallant swine they are, with short legs and portly
of
a

little that is remarkable exterior ; it is a longedificewith and

can

black

or

dark

red

colour ;

is

only two

be
on

wings, high,though it ated afar off, from being situseen elevated ground ; it has fifteen
stories

for the

excellence

of their flesh I

ated luxurivouch, having frequently

windows
lower

in the upper, and twelve in the door, story,with a paltry-looldng that of

one a

of my derings wanupon it in the course the in this province lombo, or ; live broiled the when on embers, loin, is when delicious, especially
eaten

with

somethinglike
you ascend

bam,

to

which

olives.

in sight of INIonte terior We were now single step ; the inthe I name was denotes, correspondswith the exterior, Moro, which, as ! Moors it fortress of the is a a riosity, once cu; offering nothingwhich can gi'atify the summit and I which if we high steep hill,on except the kitchens, walls and i indeed and so are large sides of which are mined magnificent, is a deep i its side western in that food enough might be cooked towers; at which ravine a small or valley, a through them, at one time, to serve as repast for all the inhabitants of the Alemtejo. stream rushes, traversed by a stone I passed the nightwith bridge;farther down there is a ford,; fort great comwhich from all over we in a clean bed, remote passedand ascended to | those noises so rife in a Portuguese inn, the town, which, commencing near the ( the lower northern and the next morning at six we again base, passes over set towards the north-east. The town which our out on we hoped to ridge journey, and many is is exceedingly tei-minate before sunset, as Evora picturesque, of the houses Vendas Novas. are but ten leaguesfrom ancient,and very fashion. I wished The precedingmorning had been cold, built in the Moorish

by

'

'

'

but the much could and

present one
so,

was

far colder

"

so

much sway

to examine
on

the relics of Moorish

no

and walked
at

just before sunrise I back, longer support it on horsetherefore dismounting, ran

that until It the
we

the

but of period permitme Monte

tain, part of the mounupper and the short time pressed,

our

stay at this placedid

not

reached in of

few these

to

gratify my
is the
cross

inclination, head of
a

houses
houses

the termination
was

late of these desoone

Moro

moors.

of hills which

that

commissioners

of Don

Alemtejo,and
east

from

range | this part of the hence they fork

Pedro and Miguel met, and it was there the agreedthat the latter should resign
crown

and

towards the former south-east,

directions the lies the direct road Madrid
to

of which
to

in favour
was

of Donna last

Maria, for
of the Alemtejo which

Elvas, Badajos,and
latter that

; and

Evora

the

of the stronghold

towards

Evora.

usui'per, and the last

so

the
area

moors

of the combats

beautiflil m.ountain, covered to the top with cork-trees, is the third of the chain which brook skirts the brawls
at

long agitated unhappy Portugal. I therefore gazed on the miserable huts

^vith considerable fail to
scatter

of Elvas. it the

way in the a\rtCtion Almo It is called Monte ; a

its base,and as I passed the on shining gloriously neighbourhood flocks of which several of the precious little tracts with on goats green herbage, with a small quantity were with their bells ringing which, together feeding, of Testaments, my carpet-bag that the tout ensemble resembled so was vided. merrily, proand that a fairy scene nothing ; The ture, might be wanted to complete the piccountry began to improve ; the left heaths and I here a were a met we behind, goatherd, man, savage and interest, the did
not

in

sun

svas

saw

hills and

dales, cork-trees, and

the last of which
trees

beneath

an

whose azinheii'a, mind the

on azinheiras,

recalled to my

appearance Brute

CHAP.

II.]
in the
:
"

THE
Danish

BIBLE
ballad

IN the

SPAIN.
excrescences

13
finement over-wroughtretheir fluence inbanefiil though

Carle, mentioned
of

of

SwajTieVonved

; and
lias

"'

he kept, A wild swine on his shoulders And his bosom bear slept. a black ; upon And with hair o'erhunjj, about his fingers The

indeed

country and
source

penetrated to the there, the corrupted man

was

and I

fountain-head

squirrel sported and

the shoulder

weasel

clung."

amongst
is scarcely those who

crowded
known. look for

where houses,
am

nature
one

Upon
was
a

of the

goatherd
was a

not

of

he told me beast, which he had lontra, or otter, which had

perfection amongst the rural of any lately population country ; perfection

; it
was

caught in the neighbouringbrook round its neck, which a string

arm.

is not to be found amongst the children of the fall, wherever their abodes may

attached to his
was a

At

his

left side

happen to

bag,from
of

the

heads

the top of which peered three singular- still or two

the existence of

be ; but, until the heart discredits a God, there is the soul of the possessor, with crime he may Simon the

hope for
even

lookinganimals, and at his rightwas the sullen cub of a wolf, which squatted he was to tame endeavouring ; his whole appearance was to the last degreesavage
and such could

however

stained

be, for
converted steeled

magicianwas

the heart is once ; but when with firmed coninfidelity, infidelity carnal

wild.
as

After who

littleconversation,
meet
on

by
melt for the

wisdom,

an

ance exuber-

those

the him
no

road if he

hold, frequently

asked
me

of the grace of God is required to it,which is seldom manifested ;

we

read,but
or

he made he

answer.

read

in the and

blessed

book

that

I then of God
then

inquiredif
Jesus the his

knew

anything

Pharisee made

the

wizard

became

in fixedly turned

face for

Christ ; he looked me and a moment,

countenance

of receptacles mention

is there grace, but where of the conversion of the

towards sink then I believe

the Sim, which was in the west, nodded

beginningto
to

infidel
date ? It
was

sneeringSaddueee, and is the aught but a Saddueee

dark

modern
of later

it, and
me.

again looked
which

fixedly upon

that I understood who made

the mute

reply, Evora,

probably was, that it was God that gloriouslightwhich illumes and gladdensall creation ; and with that belief, I left him gratified who and hastened after my companions, were by this time a considerable v/ay
in advance. I have

nightbefore we reached having taken leave of my to rae friends,wlio kindly requested

and consider my their house
went to

servant

my the the best

home,

I and de San formed inthe the

Largo

Francisco,in
me was

which the

muleteer

of hostelry
was

town.

We
extreme

i-ode into

the which in

kitchen, at

the in the

end

of

Portugal. of the children of the fields a more The house was kept by an aged gypsy and determined and fine like female her daughter, a tendency to religion pietythan amongst the inhabitants of blooming girlabout eighteenyears of and the reason is oband cities, vious age. towns The house was large ; in the with the like was a theyare less acquainted room, long story very upper hands works of man's than with those extended which a granary, nearly the of God; their occupations, of the house ; the farther whole length too, which genuity less of inare a off, and formed simple,and requiring partitioned part was and skill than those which enchamber gage comfortable, but very tolerably the attention of the other portion cold, and the floor was of tiles, as was of their fellow-creatures, vourable in which less fathat of the largeroom, are also to the engendering of selfthe muleteers accustomed to sleep were conceit and sufficiency, After so utterly at on the furniture of the mules. variance with that lowliness of spirit supper I went to bed, and havingoffered
"

always found

tion disposistable, as

is customary

constitutes the best foundation of and scoffers at piety. The sneerers d o religion not spring from amongst the simplechildren of natrrre, but are

which

up my I

devotions
me

to

Him

wlio had

tected pro-

jouiiiey; througha dangerous soundlytillthe morning. slept

1^

CHAPTER
Shopkeeper at Evora" in the Almighty"
a
"

III.
and
at

Lion Spanish Contrabandistas" of Tracts Distribution Library

"

Unicorn" Evora
"

The

Fountain"
"

Trust Bitle
as

Manuscript
The of
a

The

Guide"

The

infamous An

]SIary" The
Auto-da-

Man Men

of Palmella" from

The

Charm"

Monkish New

System
Arrival

Sunday"
Herb

Volney"

Fe"

Spain" Reading

Tract"

"The

Rosemary. small

EvoRA

is a

vailed,but city,
could
not

not
tain sus-

it seemed
nor

that

there

was

neither I

shop bookof

and fortified, i-egularly

a

school.

When

spoke

of siege that

before the held

to

day. It has five gates ; is the the south-west

its inhabitants ; day is likewise
are

religion, they exhibited the utmost for the subject,and making apathy
their bows, left me as as soon possible. Having a letter of introduction to a person
to

promenade of principal
fair
on

St. John's houses

there ; the

in

general
imoc-

who I went

kept a shop
thither of he stood

in the marketplace, delivered his counter. I found it

very ancient,and

cupied.It contains
would
to
are

many about

of them

and

five thousand
number

him the

as

behind much

inhabitants, though twice that

be

In

course

conversation

by

no

means

its size. the

The

two

had that he been disproportionate edifices whilst the old system principal and that he for it. of the had served

vent See, or cathedral,and the conof San Francisco, in the sqtiare

before the abode. stands

at to

the latter of which I had barrack A

on

was

situated up my

persecuted in its -vigour, was entertained a heartyaversion I told him that the ignorance matters people in religious
to
nurse

posadawhere
large
the the
seen

taken for
on

cavalry
ing enter-

that the surest

was

way

to

system, and prevent its return

that minds
a :

side right-hand distance of six

to

their enlighten

I added stock

the south-west be blue

east, gate. To the southis leagues, chain of hills, the

;

that

I had and
to

brought
Testaments

small
to

of

Bibles of

Evora, which

I wished
some

leave for sale in the hands

highestof
it is wild and I and
a

which its

is called Serra Dorso

tains con-

and beautiful, picturesquely within half

recesses

if he
axe

merchant, and that respectable anxious were to help to lay the

the root of superstition and tyranny, he could not do so more tually effecthan

wolves About
a

and

to

boars in numbers.
on

league

tlieother side of this hill

by undevtakiugthe charge
He declared I
went

is Estremos.

of these the

books.
to entrust

lingness his wil-

passed

rival day succeeding my arin examiningthe town princip:illy

to do so, and
to to

him the

its environs, and, as I strolled with about, entered into conversation various these
were

stock.
sat

I returned
on a

termined deaway half of my and hostelry, the hearth

down

logof

wood

on

people
of

that

the

I met middle

; several

of

within

the

immense
;
on

class, common keepers shop;

apartment
Avere

chimney in the two surly -looking

on

and
were

men professional

they

men

their knees
was a

the stones of

all

(Constitutionalists, or pretended before

hut had
very

them

largeheap

to

littleto say except on commonplace remarks the way of livingof the friars, their and laziness. I endeavoured hypocrisy
so,
a

be

of old
were

iron, brass, and

copper;

pieces they

few

in

and stowingit away it, assorting various bags. They were Spanish of the lowest livelihood from

contrabandistas
a

class,and

to

obtiiiu

some

iufornuition respecting earned

miserable rubbisl\
a

the state

of instruction in the place, and from tlieir answei-s led to believe was that it nmst be at the lowest ebb, for

such

by smuggling Portugal into

them

Spain.
their

Not

word when

proceeded from
I addressed

and lips,

16

THE unable
turn

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
missals and which one other
most

[chap. 111. manuscripts ,

arrested my

selves much

why, was means title: the which bore that following into the fall future time, and some ordinatio illussive Forma Capelli hands of others, to v.hom they might Henrici xianissimi trissimi et principis book a be of eternal interest. Many dm am is Sexti RegisAuglie et Francie the waters to wliich is abandoned serenissio Hibernie principi descripta wafted to some remote shore,and there illustri per lions, Alfonso Portugalie to miland Regi a comfort a blessing proves Willm. Sav. ser^dtorem sm it hamilem from whence who are ignorant Decanu capelle supradicte." came. the olden voice from I It seemed a was The next day,which Friday,
say
"

to them their that by account, I thought theymight become of service at

were

to

minated
but

the

need I scarcely attention,

"

called at Gorouimo

the

there,but
which

of my friend Don I did not find him Azveto. directed to the see, or was house

of my libraiyand times formed person In

dear

native

land !

This

palace,in episcopal
I found
to gentleman,

apartment with another him, writing,

an

of

picturegalleryhad been of the latter bishops, a by one and piety. of much learning the evening I dined with Don
and
us

whom

he

duced intro-

Geronimo
soon

his brother attend

to

; the latter

of the me governor ; it was with welcomed who me Evora, every After of kindness and affability. mark
some

left much of

to

his

duties.
now

My

friend lamented

and the

military myself had deplorable

his and
trymen coun-

conversation

of considerable

discourse, we
examine
an

went

out

he together interest;
state

to
was

ancient

reportedto have as a times, temple to

it was for

which edifice, in served, bygone Diana. Part of

in which igi:ioraiice existed

at

present. He
governor

said self him-

that his friend

the

of Koman were architecture, endeavouringto establish a evidently school in the vicinity, and ful that they there was no mistakingthe beautito the governsupported a had made application lightpillarswhich ment under which the sacrifices to for the
use

dome,
the most

of

an

empty convent,

nity divicalled the Espinheiro, and poetical or at thorn-tree, captivating had proof the lieathen theocracy about a nd that a distance, league's they bably been made; but the original had littledoubt of their request being between with the

space

pillarshad
of
a

been

complied with.
who the I
was

I had

before

told him

filled up date,and

rubbish

modern

the rest of the building was of the architecture of the apparently latter end of the situated
at
one

plan
I

joy at ; and after expressing which he had in contemplation, urged

him in the the
most

now

middle end been of

ages. the
seat

It

was

building
of the

to use manner pressing the knowledge of to make

all his intiiuence

Scripture

wliicli had

once

the

the

and had served, before the Inquisition, erection of tlie present see, as the residence of the bishop. Witliin the see, where the governor is now r..siiles, a occusuperb library,
an pyinfj

basis of the education which the children were to receive, and added, that half the Bibles and Testaments which
were

I had broughtwith me at his sendee heartily gave

to

Evora

iiinr.ensevaulted
a

room,

like
side

the aisle of

cathedral,and
a

in

accepted my and pleasure,

stantly ; he inhis hand, said he me offer with the greatest do all in his power which in were I
to
now

would

apartment

paintings to forward my views, by Portuguese artists, chiefly portraits, many respects his own.
is that of Don it did tian. Sebasnot

is

collection of

told

amongst Mhich
I him for justice, of
an

him with the which

that

I did of

not

come

Portugal

sincerely hope
awkward

do

it represents him

shape

with eigliteen, a witii staringeyes, and Khort apoi)k'ctic neck. I

was

in the lad of about bloated booby face

a

the dogpropagating mas of any with but particular sect, hope of introducingthe Bible, is the and
"

the view

well-head
to

of the
not

all that is

ruff round

useful of

conducive

happiness
what ple peo-

society,that
called

I cared

bhowu

several

illubeautifully

themselves, provided they

CHAP.

III.]

TOE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

17

of it. It was examination scrawled as a guide ; for that in a very illegible over were read,neither hand, and was Scriptures much stained with perspiranor priestcraft tj^rannycould longexist ; moreover tion,

followed the Bible

"where the and

instanced the
cause

the

case

of its making myself master and that only, contents; but I at last accomplished the Bible, was prosperity the following literal translation of the as the last persecutor of this book, the the tuguese, charm, which was written in bad Porbloody and infamous Mary, was had sat last tyrant who of England. We did not
on

of whose

of my own freedom

try, coun-

so

that

I had

culty considerable diffi-

and

in

the throne

but time
to
as

which

struck

me

at

the

part tillthe
;

nightwas

advanced considerably

and

the next morning I sent him the books, in the firm and confident hope that a

able beingone of the most remarkthat had ever come compositions my laiowledge.

THE CHARM. and glorious bright morning was about had so the night which Just Judge and divine Son of the to rise over lehem, long cast its drearyshadows over the VirginMaria, who wast born in Bethof the Alemtejo. a Nazarene, and wast crucified regions The day after this interesting event, in the midst of all Jewry, I beseech I had more which was versation thee, 0 conLord, by thy sixth day, that Saturday, with the man from Palmella. the body of me be not caught, nor put he had of justice I asked him if in his journeys to death by the hands at all ; swered been attacked by robbers ; he annever peace be with you, the peace of Christ, for I receive peace, may t velled rathat he generally no, may you receive in company with others. ever," HowIf the peace, said God to his disciples. accursed justice I alone, I should should said he, were distrust me, or
" " "

have

little

fear, for

I
"

am

well other

pi'oried cararms

have
me or

its eyes
to

on me,

me,

in order

to take
see

tected."
arms

I said that I with him.

he supposed No

rob

may

its eyes not

me,

than those

of said he, pulling out one this," knives,of longdesperate-looking

may
me,

its mouth not may which it have ears

may it have hands

speak
may which

to

me,

not

hear
not

may

manufacture, with which every English furnished. Portuguese peasant is usually

This

seize me,

may

it have

feet which

I be not overtake me ; for may with of knife serves for many the St. arms George,covered purposes, and I should consider it a far more efii- with the cloak of Abraham, and shipped in the ark of Noah, so that it can neither cient weapon than a dagger. "But," said he, " I do not placemuch hear me, nor draw the blood dence confisee me, nor in what
"

may armed

inquired from my body. I also adjurethee,O Lord, by those three blessed crosses, by protection. hope his In this," those three blessed chalices, said he ; and unbuttoning by those he showed small bag, three blessed clergymen, a those me three waistcoat, by attached to his neck by a silken string.consecrated hosts, that thou give me In this bag is an oracam, that sweet wliich thou gaveiit or prayer, company written by a person of power, and as to the Virgin Maria, from the gates of of Jerusalem, to the portals longas I carry it about with me, no ill Bethlehem ing befall me." and that I may is the leadcan with pleasure come Curiosity go and I instantly feature of my character, and joy with Jesus Christ, the Son of said, with eagerness, that I the VirginMaria, the prolific theless yet nevershould feel great pleasure in beingperthe eternal virgin.' mitted
I then rested his

in the

knife."

of

"'

to read the

prayer.

"

Well," he

The

woman

of the

house

nnd

her

friend,and I my would do for you what I would for few I will show it you." He then others, asked for my penknife, ripped and,havingun-

replied, you
"

are

daughterhad similar bags attached to their necks, containing charms, v.hich, the witches liaving theysaid, prevented
power
to

harm

them.

The

belief in

of
to

bag,took out folded paper closely

my

the

largepiece witchcraft is very prevalent amongst the peasantry of the Alemtejo, I hurried and I up. the believe of other provinces of Portugal. apartment and commenced
a

IS

THE is

BIBLE

IN book. her

SPAIN.
She

[enA
said that
months
to
a

p.

till
rt

This

one

of the relicsof the monkish of which, in all it has existed,seems besot the minds
comi-

young

man,

system, the aim

tries where
have

had great Constitutionalist,

to
some

given it tc" and ha^d previous,

read for it, that i

been

to

of the

her much pressed

that tliey easily was one of the best books in the world people, might be more ai that the author of it was cations I replied, fabrimisled. All these charms were and o* of an had sold of the monks, who Satan, enemy emissary mankind of souls and the Jesus Christ confessants. their infatuated them to The which monks of the Greek likewise deal
to

and in

Syrian

that it was

written

with

the sole aim

churches

this ware,

all bringing

they

know

be

poison,but
vend than

which they would balm the wholesome it

to

rather of the
a

into contempt, am religion that it inculcated the doctrine that ther reward for th^ future state,nor was no
)

brings them
life of

ed. cause righteous, nor punishmentfor the wickGospel,bebut made and She no reply, goinginto large price, enables tliem another full of
room,

fosters the delusion live

a

which

returned with

dry sticks and and proand which she piled The was fine, duced upon the fire, She then took ) bla^e. the plain before the church of the cona vent bright hand and placed it \ Francisco crowded the book from my of San was the flaming pile { with people hastening to or returning upon sitting ; then from the mass. After havingperformed down, took her rosary out of her pocket,i and breakfasted, and told her beads till the volume was :, my morning devotion, in j This was I went down to the kitchen ; the girl consumed. an auto-da-fe i Geronima seated by the fire. I of the word. the best sense was On the Monday and Tuesday I paid inquiredif she had heard mass ? She and that she usual visits to the fountain, and ) replied in the negative, my did not intend to hear it. Upon my likewise rode about the neighbourhood her motive for absenting ing self, on a mule, for the purpose of circulatherinquiring she replied, that since the friars I dropped a great many in tracts. had been expelled from their churches the favourite walks of the people of'
luxury. Sunday morning
and
mass,
convents
or

her apron brushwood, all

she confess

had

ceased

to

attend that the

Evora,

as

I felt rather dubious

of their

had them them I proffered accepting had with should no own hand, whereas, priests government spiritual my and consequently slie never power, they be observed lyingon the groimd, troubled them. She said the friars were I thought that curiosity might cause them and examined. to be holy men and charitable ; for that every picked up I likewise,on morning those of the convent the the Tuesday evening, over fed fortypoor persons with the way paid a farewell visit to my friend i-elics of the meals of the preceding day, Azveto, as it was my intention to leave but tliatnow these peoplewere Evora allowed and the Thursday following on
to to starve.

herself;for

I
on

who

lived

that replied, the fat of the

the

friars,

return

to

Lisbon
a

in which of he
a man

view who served of

I had formed inas

a

land,could

engaged

calash that

well afford to bestow a few bones upon their poor, and that their doing so was

me

had

merely

part of their policy, by which

to
secure

soldier in the grandearmee and been present in the

Napoleon,
paign, cam-

Russian

they hoped

to

themselves

lie looked
drunkard.
His

friends in time of need.

The
was

girlthen

the very ..image of a face Avas covered with

observed, that,
shoiikl

as

it
to

Sunday,
some

of strong waters. H* books, and without waiting for a reply she wished much to converse with me ii produced them. in Tlieyconsisted printhe of which cipally French, guage lanspeaking of popular stories, witli lives it seemed he pridedhimself, bin miracles and of saints, but amongst I refused,and told him to speak Xhi
see

perhaps like

carbuncles,and with the fumes

his breath

impregnated

them
to know

was

translation I she

of

^'olney'slanguage of
hold
no

Iliiinsof

Empires.
how
came

expresseda wish of this possessed

discourse

the country, or with him.

was

I woulc

Wednesday

stormy, -vrith occa-

CHAP.

III.]
On

THE

BIBLE
I found

IN

SPAIN.
I told them

19

sional rain. that my

coming down,

robbers.

theymust

beware

partedof confoimding Palmella had dewith priestcraft, religion and that in their abhorrence of the ; but several contrabandistas had arrived from Spain. They were that there is mostly latter they must not forget fine

friend from

the two I had and a Christ to whom a God theymust of look for salvation, and whose word it week, who were preceding much lower them incumbent to was on degree,were chattyand study upon communicative occasion;whereupon they all ; theyspoketheir native every and no other, and seemed to belief in Christ and a devout language, expressed in great contempt. hold the Portuguese the Virgin. The magnificent These tones of the Spanish though in many respects men, sounded amidst the I more to great advantage than the surrounding enlightened dialect of Portugal. I shrill squeaking others as much in in were peasantry, conversation with in the dark in believed Avitchcraft was soon deep ; they much of particular charms. them, and was pleasedto find and in the efficacy could read. I preThe tliat all of them night was sented stormy, and a*, very of about fifty about the eldest, nine we heai'd a galloping a man wards toin of with and tract the door, then a loud knocking a Spanish. years age, time with it for some He examined : it was opened, and in rushed a then from attention he his rose key donmounted a on great wild-looldng ; man, a raggedjacketof sheepseat, and going into the middle of the skin, ; he wore called in Spanish zamarra, with apartment, began reading it aloud, his compabreeches of the same as far down as his slowly and emphatically; nions knees ; his legs Avere bare. Around gatheredaround him, and every and then expressed their approbahis sombrero, or shadowy hat,was now tied tion of what The reader of the herb which in a largequantity they heard. called upon me to explain Englishis called rosemary, in Spanish occasionally and in the rustic languageof which, as they referred to romero, passages he did not texts of Scripture, particular Portugalaiecrim,which last is a word exactlyunderstand, for not one of the of Scandinavian origin(elleyren), nifying sigeither the Old or the elfin plant, and seen was party had ever bably proTestament. carried New into the south by the He continued reading for upwards of Vandals. The man seemed frantic with
seen

and, unlike fellows,

the

an

tract

hour, until he had finished the the whole ; and, at its conclusion,
were

terror, and
been

said

that

the

witches

had

pursuinghim

and

hoveringover

party
with

clamorous I
was

for similar
to

ones, to

his head
came

which

happy

be able

for the last two leagues. He from the Spanish frontier with other he articles; in about
a

them. suppl}^ Most of these

men

meal

and
was

said that and would

spokeof

his wife priestcraft

utmost
soon

him, following

afid the monkish

system with the

said

arrive,and

quarter of

abhorrence,and
death prefer
to

that they should liour she made her appearance, an ping dripwith rain, and also mounted submitting a again to the on yoke which had formerlygalledtheir donkey. I questioned them necks. distas cularly I asked ^^ij friends the contrabanvery partithe opinion of their respecting why he wore the rosemai-y in his this hat ; whereupon they told me on that it neighboursand acquaintances that in their and they assured me witches and the mischances was point, good against of the road. I had no time to on part of the Spanishfrontier all were the same this superstition, mind, and that they cared as for, as argue against little for the Pope and his monks the chaise was to be ready at five the as the they did for Don Carlos ; for the latter next morning, I wished to make d^YQ.rf(chicotito) and a tyrant, most was a of the short time which I could and the others were plunderersand devote to sleep.

20

CHAPTER
Vexatious

IV.
Mule-Tlie

Delavs-DrunkenDriver_The

murdered

Lamentation-Adventure
Escort-Return
to Lisbon.

ov

the Heath-Fear

of Darkness-Portuguese

Fidalgo-The
be
but

ROSK

some

at four, and after having taken and refreshment, I descended

of his discovering them, apprehensive that

were

the

found

the

strange

man

and

his

wife

house when
escort

familywho lived going to Lisbon, and

a

in this would

in the sleeping

fire,Avhich was soon awoke, and consisted of salt breakfast,which dinhas, broiled upon the embers.
the
mean

chimney corner by the still burning. They their began preparing

sar-

depart
we

in about

quarter of

an

hour,
of
an

might avail ourselves

with should had drive and

an

of soldiers which they would them, and in their company

run
no

take
we

In

danger.
he

I told him him would We

I
to

time the

woman

of the beautiful which Spain,

"

hymn,

sang snatches in very common thus

:
"

no on

fear, and
; but
us

commanded
said he

commences

left

in

the street.
two

not, waited
to

Once Near

of
overcome

old

to holy tower, kept at dead of night their slie'ep ; Round about tlie trunk they nodded of a

upon with Bethlehem's

mountain, a sleep,

shepherds

hour, when
of the

came carriages

the house, but it seems familywere not yet ready,whereupon likewise got down, and the coachman the door away. half an hour when
went

huge ignitedoak, Whence the crackling flame

ascending
broke." to

brightand
On of my

clear the darkness

of about expiration the familycame out, and their luggage had been arranged At the for
to

hearing
she

that
"

was

about

part, de-

they called
was

the coachman, be

but

he
was
an

could be procured: but the its appearance, enough to permit her to put some of it escort had not yet made before a servant had not in my hat ; and the man having by this and it was the barracks been twice dispatched time arrived with his mules, I bade to farewell to my friendly that It arrived. At last everything was hostesses,and entered the chaise with my servant. ready,and they drove off. All this time I had seen I remarked at the time that the mules nothingof
driver which
ever

You shall have some which will rosemary, keep you from danger,and prevent any misfortune foolish occurring." I was

said,

nowhere

found.

Search

husband's

made hour

for him, but

more
was

and ineffectually,

spent before

another

drew

us

were

the

finest I had the that

our

own

the largest could be seen; sliort of sixteen hands high; and

me

little that In
a

coachman, and I fully expected he had abandoned us altogether.

minutes in
a

few

saw

him

staggering

fellow told

in his bad

French

up the

street

state of intoxication,

he loved them better than his wife and children. We turned round the corner of the convent, and proceeded down the leads to the south-western street which

the Marseilloishymn. to sing attempting I said nothingto him, but sat observing time staring him. He stood for some and the mules, at talking incoherent
nonsense
"

gate. The
the door and
as

driver
a

of

stoppedbefore large house, and having

now

in French.

At

last he

said,

said alighted, that he

was

that it was

drunk but I can ride," am not so mules towards his and lead t o proceeded yet very early,
J

afraid to venture he out of the town forth, the gate. When should ineffectual made several we be attempts to very probable robbed, and himself murdered, as the mount the smallest mule, which bore robbers who resided in the town would the saddle; he at length succeeded, it was

CHAl'.

IV.]
commenced instantly
rate
a

THE

BIBLE
a

IN
"

SPAIN.

21

and

at spurring

Paciencia,"said he, and

the head of the

began

ing kickto

furious
at

down

the

road.

We

rived ar-

mule,

in order

placewhere a narrow rock}^ make it rise ; but I pushed him down, branched which and taking his knife, we which had fallen off, path by taking should avoid considerable circuit from his pocket, a cut the bands by which round the city wall,which otherwise it it was attached to the carriage, but life
would could be necessary to make before we reach the road to Lisbon,which
at

lay
"

the

north-east. overtake the

He

now so

fled,and the film of death its eyes. begun to cover The in said, fellow, the recklessness
seemed make mule
at

had

had

of intoxicatio

I shall take this shall

path,for

we

doing by family in a
we

first disposedto

minute
was

;" path wide enough to admit the scarcely and carriage, exceedinglysteep and broken. "We proceeded, and ascending the wheels and cracked, descending ;
so

into the

went.

It

lightof his loss,saying," The is dead ; it was God's will that she should die ; what more be said ? can
Paciencia." Meanwhile, I despatched Antonio to the town, for the purpose of

the motion in

was

so

violent that

we

were

hiringmules, and, having taken waited on baggage from the chaise,

my the

danger of being cast out as from a road-side until he should arrive. in The fumes of the liquorbegan now sling. I saw that if we remained it must in pieces, to depart from the carriage be broken the fellow's brain; insure its destruction. he claspedhis hands, and exclaimed, as our weight must in Portuguese I called to him Blessed Virgin, what is to become to of and How T to support myself? am spurred the me? stop, but he flogged entreated Where beasts the more. now I to get another am mule ? My man
"

me

for God's

sake

to

speak

to

him

in

For dead of
a

French,
him him
we

for if

anything would
dismount

pacify

that would.
to

let

us

I did so, and entreated till and walk

and

mule is best mule my my she fell upon the road,and died sudden ! I have been in France, in other countries, and have seen
" "

The
"

this dangerous way. beasts of all kinds,but such a mule as Antonio's that I have never seen justified tion. anticipa; but she is dead and said, He instantly is dead mule she fell upon the : stopped, ray Sir,you are master ; you have only to road,and died of a sudden !" He continued result
"

had

cleared

command, and
and the

I shall walked
on

obey."
till we
we

We

mounted, dis-

in this sti-ain for the burden

"

considerable is dead
died of
: a

reached
more

time ; and
was

of his lamentation mule

great road, when

once

always, My
the

seated oureelves. The

a

she about and

a we

family were
in

quarter of
were
no

fell upon sudden." At from upon the the he

road, and

lengthhe

took the collar

mile

advance,

sooner

reseated than he lashed the mules for the purpose of overtaking gallop, it. His cloak had fallen from
to endeavouring

neck, and other,which, with some

creature's

put it
culty, diffi-

into full

placedin the shafts. boy of

about thirteen
now

A beautiful
came

his shoulder, and, in

from

the

direction of the town,

he dropped the string from city it, re-adjust running along the road with the velohis hand by which he guided the large of a hare: he stoppedbefore the mule : it became entangledin the legs dead mule and burst into tears: it was of the poor animal, which fell heavily the man's had heard of the son, who its neck ; it struggled for a moment, accident from Antonio. on This was too and then lay stretched across the way, much for the poor fellow ; he ran up to the shafts over its body. I was and the Don't said, pitched boy, cry, our
"

forward into the dirt, and the drunken driver fell upon the murdered mule.
I
"

was

You

is gone, but it is God's will ; the mule is dead !" He then flunghimself in a great I'age, and the fearful cries. cried, on ground, uttering " drunken who I could have borne said he^ are renegade, my loss,"
bread
to

ashamed
own

speakthe languageof
have broken
may
now

country, you

your the staff stai'vc."

"

but

when
a

fool." and

of your

and existence,

crowns,

came my child cry, I beI gave him two or three added some words of comI
saw

22

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

IV. [CITAP.

fort
if

at his saddle was : jack-boots him I liad no doubt tliat, assuiiiiii' He formidable a inquired gun. drink, the Almighty slung he abandoned
:
_

to pass the nightat Venif I "intended him and on compassion in the and das on became Novas, my replying repairhis loss. At lengthhe would avail said he h e that gage affirmative, more composed, and placingmy bag-

God

would

take

returned to tlie in the chaise, we excellent two where I found town, arrival at riding mules awaiting my the Spanish see I did not the inn. I should have told her of the or woman, of rosemary in this instance. little efficacy drunkards several known I have

mense
himself looked and of
our

towards

company. the sun, whose

He

now

disk

was

rapidlysinkingbeneath

the

horizon,

entreated us to spur on and make for that the moor of its light, the most He horrible a was place in the dusk.

placed himself at our head, and we trotted briskly on, the boy or muleteer amongst the Portuguese,but, without out attended duals indiviwho us runningbehind withone they have been exception, t he exhibiting slightest symptom of who, having travelled abroad, with a like this fellow, have returned fatigue.
contempt
lands which
1 would

for their the

own

country, and
vices of the visited.

We

entered

pollutedwith

worst

advanced fell around with when

the moor, and had upon mile when dark about a night
us

they have

we

were

in
on

wild

path,
side,
not

any of my chance to read who countrymen may these lines, that,if their fate lead them advise strongly into ing Spainor Portugal,they avoid hivas domestics,or being connected of the lower other the classes than that

high
the

brushwood

either he could

rider said that

confront
to

ride
:

on

the darkness, and begged me before, and he would follow hear him

after asked

I could the
reason

trembling.
was

with, individuals
who their

speak
own,

any
as

language

day, but that of late years he dreaded ards. it,especially they are heartless thieves and drunkin wild places. I complied with his These gentry are invariably ing sayof the way, in dispraise of their all tliey can ignorant request,but I was it is my native land ; and see hand, opinion, and, as I could scarcely my This that an in- was continually going wrong. g:rounded upon experience, aividual who is capableof such baseand he again made the man ness impatient, would hesitate at the perpehead. "\Ye pronot ceeded tration placed himself at our of any villany, for next for a considerable way, when to the so love of God, the love of country is the said that the he again stopped, and
is probability
as

that at replied, the same thingto

of his terror, and time darkness one liim

he

best

proud of
IS

crime. He is power of the darloiess was who for too much his country will be particuhim. His horse seemed to be infected larly cautious not to do anythingwhich with in the same for it shook panic, calculated to disgi-ace it. limb. told him I call now on to every "We
now

preventiveof

journeyedtowards
Monte Moro After

Lisbon,
two

the able

name

of the
turn

Lord

Jesus,vrho
into

was

and

reached the

about

to

the

darkness

light;

o'clock.
as our

taking such
were

ment refresh-

placeafforded,Ave pursued
witliin
a

wr.y tillwe
a

quarter
on we were

of

the had

league of the huts edge of the savage

before crossed.

wiiich stand wilderness Here

we

but he gave a terrible shout, and bi'anit in dishinghis gun aloft discharged the air. His horse sprang forward at full speed, and my was mule, which
one

of

the

swiftest
at

of its the the

land, took hoy

a

and fright
a

followed Antonio On
we

heels of the
were

overtaken

by

horseman

; he

was
was

charger.
left behind.

and flew

middle-sized and powe -fid, man, mounted on a noltle Spanish horse. had with
and
a

like

whirlilium

He his

Avind, the hoofs of the animals

broad

sond)rero slouching
a

on

ing the

head, and

wore

largebosses claspsof the

of

jerkinof l)lue cloth, struck of silver for buttons, Avhither metal ; he had same creatures
imand
soon

of fire they path with the sparks from the stones. I knew not
we were were

going,but
us

the dumb

breeches

with tlieway, acquainted

to

yellow leather, and

brought

Vendas

Novas,

24

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

IV.

.'iliouting
Picaro
!

Eendete,

Picaro

Rendete,
sur-

were

galloping
the

about of

in

all

directions,
the enemy
to

(Surrender, We,
however,
a

scoundrel,

for from

purpose
cover,

driving
they

rendei'!)
and,
l)efore the
we

passed
of
a

lested, unmo-

should the
not

happen

be

about reached of the been

quarter

mile

lurking
I could that

in

neighbourhood.
help
martial

Pegoens,

overtook

thinking,
array it
was was

as

I
was

passed
very

family
Had

Fidalgo. conveying
the have The in the saddle. deserts the of wealth

by,

this for

they

injudicious,
to
awe

though
it

calculated
likewise culated calto

of

Ind

through
could
not

Arabia,
with with in

plunderers,
to

they
more

travelled

allure

them,
wealth territories.

as

it
was

seemed

precaution.
sabre, holsters,
at

nephew,
front
;

hint

that

immense their

passing
I do
not

drawn his

rode and

pistols
gun him with of them which

through
know would but thi-ee such how have

usual

Spanish
Behind

the behaved

soldiers in
to
case

and of

rustics
an

slung

his six

tack, at-

tramped
muskets
wore

men

in and
a

rank,
each

am

inclined
men as

believe

that had

if

shouldered,
at

Ri

jhard

Turpin
from

his

girdle
intended brisket
to

hatchet,
to

suddenly
the
one

galloped
the

forth

behind neither
to

was

probably
to to

cleave

of

bush-covered
nor

knolls,
resistance

thieves

the

should

they

ture ven-

the them

nuinbers would away

opposed
them of the from

come

close
two

quarters.
of the others
to

There

have the in

prevented
contents

were

six which

vehicles,
latter
;

them

calashes,
and

bearing
box,
From of

strong

in his

rode the

Fidalgo
were

jingling
this

their

saddle-bags. nothing
till
our

daughters
and

covered filled of
on

moment

worthy
arrival
at

carts,
household vehicles side
;

seemed furniture had

an

be each rustic

with these either

relating

occurred
where

Aldea

Gallega,
and
next

we

passed
three

the

armed
son,
rear a

night,
embarked

morning
the
we

at

o'clock for bon, Lis-

and up of

the the his

lad with in

about
a

sixteen,

in where

passage-boat
arrived
at

brought
to

squad
van.

equal
The
were

eight:

and ir.

that

cousin

the

thus the

terminates

my

first

wandering

soldiers,

who,

by
and

good admirably

fortune,

Alemtejo.

light

horse,

mounted,

25

I
r\u

CHAPTER
ColUgo" The
Rector"

V.
Prejudices"Youthful
and

Shibboleth"
"

National
"

Sports" Jews of

Lisbon

Bad

Faith

Crime

Superstition.

One

afternoon Antonio
would like to
* * * see *

said to me,
your the

"

It

we
"

here?"

said me."

has struck me,

the

that Senlior,

ship wor-

surely your
to

he to the latter-. features are not un"

"

*/" English means," I replied, "pray conduct me So he led me thither." rious through vastreets until we stopped before the gate of a largebuilding, in one of

collegeof *.By all

known

Probably not, your

reverence," replied Antonio, getting

profoundly. " I up, and bowing most lived in the family of the Countess
* * *

*,

at

Cintra, when
her

your

ve-

spiritual guide." the most elevated situations in Lisbon ; said the old gentleman, True, true,'' of porter prea kind ringing, Ah, upon our sently sighing, I remember you now. made his appearance, and mandedAntonio, things are dechanged strangely
" "

was nerability

business. Antonio then. our plained since exHe hesitated for a it to him. new system
moment ;

A
"

new new

government

"

but, presently biddingus

us

ter, en-

conducted

lookingstone
to
soon

largegloomyhall, where, begging us

to
a

I may religion, say." Then, lookingagain at me, he demanded whither I was ? journeying
a
"

be

seated,he joinedby a

left

us.

We

were

seeminglyabout flowingrobe or
cap upon

personage, seventy, in a kind of with a collegiate surplice, his head. Notwith-

venerable

said I, and going to Spain," at Lisbon stopped by the way." Spain,Spain! said the old man ; surely you have chosen a strange time to visit Spain; there is much blood shedding in Spain at present,
am
"

have
" "

"

a stajidmghis age there was ruddy tinge upon his features, which wex-e perfectly English. Coming slowlyup he addressed me in the Englishtongue, know how he could serve t o requesting

and

violent
the

wars cause

and of

tumults." Don

"

I
as

consider lost the his

Carlos
"

he has crushed," I replied already ; of onlygeneral capable leading his armies to Madrid. Zumalacarregui,

me.

I informed

him

that

was

an

Cid, has

fallen."

"

Do

not

flatter

and should be happy yourself; I beg your pardon,but do Englishtraveller, the college,not think,young to be permitted that the Lord to inspect man, will it show to the of darkness to providedit were peraiit customary powers that to sti'angers. He informed the of Don me so cause triumph easily ; there could be no accede is Carlos lost t o its did not not : success objection that I the life to my but of frail at came ther ralike on a depend worm request, it being him whom unfortunate moment, an We you have mentioned." the hour of refection. continued in discourse some I apologised, littletime, and was when he arose, sayingthat by this time but he preparing to retire, in he few nutes mito believed the refection was me as a remain, begged cluded. conthe when would We when the refection themselves
me.

would the the the

be

over,

of principals

do
on

college of pleasure
bench,

He when
stone

had

left me scarcely

five minutes entered the

wards slowly to-

three

individuals
advanced the The

waiting
he

hall, and
me

sat

down
some

on

stone

;
"

of the college, principals and

so

commenced for

me sur^^eying

tentively at-

said I to
were.

myself;
the

indeed

time, and
"

then

cast

they

firstof these other

men, gentletwo ap-

his eyes

on

Antonio.

Whom

have

and

to

whom

26

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

peared to
was
a

above

A Eussian invariably deference, spent some years. pay considerable his hat whenever he off thin spare takes somewhat person, it whether beneath the middle his a roof, enters plexion comtain perheight; to hut, shop,or was palace. To omit pale,his features very
but

emaciated other life.

his eyes fine,

dark
"

and of
;

doing
mark for

so

sparkling ; he
two
were

might be about
men

fifty the prime

stature
wore

of the

considered be a as and and barbarism, brutality would

in

the low

following reason:

in house

One

was
were

of rather mortified be observed

his features

dark, and

that

apartment of a Eussian of the a small picture

in
a

every there is

pinched and to frequently

expressionso
in the
tenance coun-

corner,

justbelow

Virginstuck up the ceiling the

"

hat is taken

Quick : the English***** other was a blutf,ruddy, and rather exchanged by the three gentlemen. I their shibboleth, had all three stumbled good-lookingyoung man; upon dressed alike in the usual college and proclaimed were myself an Ephraimite, I have no doubt Coming up, the and not of Gilead. cap and silk gown. eldest of the three took me that moment the that to sidered they had conby up

of the

off out of respect to her. were glancesof intelligence

hand, and
"

thus
:--"

addi-essed

me

in clear house in it
a

me

as

one

of

themselves

"

tones silvery

Welcome, Sir,to
are

our

poor
to
see

we

always happy
from
our

of their member, and perhapsa priest, gion, own ancient,grand, and imposingreliconfess for such it is, I must an
"

that countryman land ; it will afibrd us extreme motives could faction they should fall. What satisif ; it is true to show Protestant have for intruding a you over upon that satisfaction is considerctbly dirni- their privacy ? What interest could he Jiished by the reflection that it take in inspecting of their the economy possesses So far, nothing wortljy of the attention of a establishment? however, from traveller ; there is nothingcurious pertainingrelaxing in their attention after thia native
error

beloved

into

which

it

was

natural

to

it save,
we

its economy, perhaps,

and

as that,

walk

about,we
to

will

plain ex-

to

you.

Permit

us, first of

to all,

rector you ; I am of this poor English house of refuge ; this gentleman is our of humanity, professor apartment ? T think I understood you and this (pointing to the ruddy How resting so. delightfulhow truly intethe Blessed of professorof polite a personage) is our picture Virgin ; Hebrew, and Syriac." beneath learning, in every apartment the ceiling I humbly salute this intelMtjself. ligence you all : of a Eussian house ! Tru^ly, if I inquire excuse who me the is as unexpected as it is dewas lightful. venerable gentleman who put himself I shall from this moment to the inconvenience of stayingwith entertain a much of the higheropinion whilst I was me sure. Eussians than hitherto leiawaiting most an
" " "

introduce ourselves

their politeness creased, discovery, visiblyinperhaps,a scrutinizing though, observer might have detected a shade of less cordiality in their manner. Beneath the ceiling in every Rector.

"your

"

truly

I wish that it was our own sonage,sincerely perpractice our almoner, our chaplaui: he to place an of the Blessed Virgin image into tliis country before came beneath the ceiling in every of corner any of were us born, and here he has conliouses. What tinued our our say you, fessor prosince. Now ever let us ascend of humanity ? What say you to that we show you our may commupoor house : the information so obligingly but how is tliis, my dear Sir,how is it nicat(?d to us by this excellent gentleman tluit I see you standinguncovered in ?

example worthy

of imitation.

licctor.
"

O !

most

admirable

our

damp Ml/self. 1
"

cold

hall ?
can a

Professor.It is,indeed, Humanitji

"

ea.sily explain
custom

that come be-

most

to you

it is

which I

has
am

arrived

natural to me. (piite from Kussia, where

just
have

may gether not altosay ; but I confess that I was tion unpreparedfor it. The adoraof the Blessed Virgin is becoming
-

'most cheering, I delightful,

CHAP,

v.] day
more

THE
extended

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

27

every where

it has hitherto

Dr. W forgotten. most some Lisbon, gave me througli details with respect to the interesting labours of the propaganda in India. beloved counEven England, out own try

***** civil wars in countries the Englisli fully cheershed their blood and squandered or been unknown when he passed their fortunes in the cause of the unfortunate ,

that he martyr, notwithstanding

never

favoured
them

them,
with

and

upon pi-esentthe
most

looked

invariably suspicion.At
are
our

English *****
of subjects should for be
our

the

devoted
as

I sovereign. friends My obliging

over

showed
rich
one

me

all

say

much Yet

gracious happy if I could Irish brethren;

been
"

their

"poor

hovise;" it certainlybut
; it
was

their
*

conduct what
*
*

has
can
* a

oh ! detestable.

did not appear a very and rathe-r spacious,

was libi-ary

The dilapidated. thing nosmall, and possessed

; the

The

true

expect? you blush for them. A disgrace to pretendsto be

he find in the the
our

certain church
servant.
canons

remarkable

view, however,

person of which Where sanction

is he

the great-^r from the roof,over part of Lisbon and the Tagus, was very grand and

does for his

his proceedings,
one

and sovereignby divine right, who do no can or fine prospects, I visited this strange wrong? And above with its inmates ; all, where old house to converse does he find authority for for my favourite, I might say, my only, inflaming the passions of a vile mob I found these gentleintended by nature and a nation study is man. men against much what I had anticipated them ? to command by position ; for
"

in the

noble ; but I did not visit this place hope of seeingbusts, or books,

undutiful

towards expressions

who

is his

this

was
an

not

the

first time

that I had

I Mijself.
"

believe

there

is

an

Irish

ment establishin this city ? English***** college in a foreignland. Hector. I believe there is ; but it They were and courtesy to their full of amiability does not flourish, there are few or no heretic countryman, and though the pupils. Oh ! with of their religion advancement I looked was through a window, at a Ihem of an and saw about twenty or object ance, paramount importgreat height, I soon found that,with ludicrous fine lads sporting in a court below. thirty This is as it should be," said derful inconsistency, they cherished, to a wonnational prejudices almost those boys will not I ; make degree, worse extinct in the mother to the from little earlydevotion to a land, even priests of those of their OAvn and like disparagement trap-ball cudgel playing. I disfaith. of the I a tion, educastaid, serious, darling spoke English puritanic " * * * I firmlybelieve that it encou*, of their high respectability, as rages and of the loyalty which formly vice and hypocrisy." they had unidisplayedto their sovereign, We then went into the Rector's room, and by religion, was though of a differeiit where, above a crucifix, hanging a whom had been not unfrequently small portrait. tliey and injustice. Mijself. That subjectedto much was a great and oppression tentous porvisited
"

"

"

"

man,

honest has been

withal. he
was so

I believe the

Hector.
to

"

dear INIy

Sir, I

am

rejoiced the
and has

body
which

of which

founder,
decried,

well you ; I see that you are with the of those acquainted great body of our faith in England. They are as you have well

hear

much

effected

more infinitely

good than
You
an

it has caused Hector.

"

harm. What do I hear ?

described them,

most

and respectable

loyalbody ; from
been real

indeed, they never

though theyhave
and

alty,Englishman, and a Protestant, and yet loysAverved, and admirer of Ignatius an Loyola? accused of plots I will spect Mijself. say nothingwith re"

it is conspiracies, had
no

now

well known

to
as

the doctrine have but

no

of the

Jesuits, for,
am a

that such
were

existence, but
invented

you
: are

observed, I

testant Prothat better

their

merely enemies. religious

calumnies

by
the there

During

ready peoplein the

am

to assert

Avorld

28

THE the the

BIBLE
to

IX

SPAIN.

[chap.
the

qualified, upon
with

-whole,

be

trusted inmore both

polishedthan
educated, and
in the
more

ter others, bet-

youth. Their moral are system and discipline admirable. Their pupils, in afterlife, truly
are

education

of

language
of their
a

of

deeplyversed and Scripture

In

the traditions London is termed the

forefathers.

seldom

vicious

and

licentious

there is

edifice which stately

of characters,and are in general men and possessed of every science, learning,

Jews, where
are religion

of the Portuguese synagogue the rites of the Hebrew

elegant accomplishment.
the iu conduct of the last
care

execrate

performed with

all

liberals of

murdering
of the

fathers, by
two

whose

the year and instruction of

possiblesplendour and magnificence. would one natui'ally helpless Knowing all this,
Madrid

expect
oneself Judaism

on

finest minds the and

are

Spain

have of tinez Mar-

in

arrivingin Portugalto the head-quarters of

which the mind
so

find that that

been of

evolved"
cause

two

ornaments

with
to

has been much

the liberal

modern Toreno

literature and

accustomed is

associate

Spain,for

such

de la Eosa

respectableand imposing. It was, with feelings of considerable therefore, surprisethat I heard from the beings,
whom I
"

Gathered

in small

clusters about

the

have

attempted to

describe
of themselves:

at the lower extremities of the pillars gold and silver streets in Lisbon, may

above, the following account

"

be observed, about noon in every certain strange-looking whose men is neither Portuguese nor

day,

said

some pearance apEuropean.

Their dress
of
at
a

consists generally
blue silken

away
"

We of Portugal," not are from they, we come Barbary, from Algier, from the Levant, some but mostlyfVom Barbary, yonderAnd ! west. to the norththeypointed
"
"

a tassel the top of it,a blue tunic girdedat the waist with a red sash, and wide linen pantaloons He who or trousers. hears passes by these groups generally them conversing in broken Spanish or

red

cap, with

And

where

are :
"

the Jews
"

of

gal,"I demanded
of the country ? " We know of heard

the proper

Poi-tuchildi-en

but ourselves," none the Barbaresques, though we replied

"

in a harsh occasionally which the gutturallanguage, oriental traveller knows to be the Arabic, or a

and Portuguese,

have
if so, do thou

say
not
we

that
come are

there
near an

are

others

theydo for right,

us, and
to

they
A

evil
a

people,O
man.

dialect thereof.
Jews of Lisbon. groups of these

These I

people are
of

the
one

Tsadik, and
every

thieves

Into the midst

one

day

introduced

shipcomes it brings a

Swirah ;* year from for it brings cargo of thieves,

Jews." a beraka, or " lived in differentparts And said your wives and families," of the world, much " the brew HeI, where are they? amongst " and well acquainted am race, In Swirah, or Salee,or other places with their ways and phraseology'. from I whence We bringnot our Ave come. rather was anxious to become with us, nor quaintedwives acfamilies : many our with the state of the Portuof us guese have escapedhither barelywith Jews, and I had now an from the punishment due to life, flying tunity. oppor" The man is a powerful ral:"bi," crimes. Some our live in sin with the said a voice in Arabic " it behoves us of the Nazarene for ;

myself, and

pronounced

blessing.I have

"

daughters
an

we

are

to treat him
me.
a

kindly." They

welcomed

few The

I favoured their mistake, and in days I knew all that related to Jews
are

evil race, O Tsadik, and do the precepts of the law."

"

not

serve ob-

And
"

have

them and their trafficin Lisbon.

of

you thou

synagogues

and

teachers ?

Europe
some

at

the

time

present

"

Both, O
are

righteous one,
: our our

divided
as

yet

into two

classes,

little can
rain

be said of either vile and places,

chenouteachers

synagogues,

and Portuguese

German.

call tliem," the Of these the

most celebrated is the Portuguese. Jews of this class are considered generally

sea-port in North
of

Africa,better knowa

as

l)ytlie najTie

Mogadore.

CHAP,

v.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

29

are

like sin.

ourselves,
One
of and of the what ? say
"

bound them

in in
;
ever

the his he
came

galoot
house is from

the
the

children
sound of

of
a

sin,
dark
one

but

they
cabalistic

quake
word

at

of
a

keeps

daughter

Nazarene

pronounced
or

by
in

perhaps
;
as

their

equal
as

Swirah,
that
"

good

from

superior
well

villany
God power

if,

has

shore You hearken

"

been your teachers their

we are

observed,
of his

would
to

delegate
the workers

evil ?
"

do

the of

exercise

ve

unto
course

words

iniquity.
It

Of

hearken else
men, ;

unto

them ? live
are

is
Jews

quite
of

certain

that
were

at

one

period

how teachers

could
are

we

do evil

and and

li\e

Our

the

Portugal
for

desei-vedly learning,
and ever, howthem da
to
:

by they

celebrated

wealth,
;

fraud,
masters,
Have

like
men

ourselves
to

yet

still and
at

polished

manners

the havoc

Inquisition,
with the
auto

be

dreaded

obeyed.
mand com-

played
those who

sad

they
and

not

witchcraft
Have and
we

their

escaped becoming
took in their

fe,

angels?
power,

they
Shem
to

not

without

converts

popish
lands,

words

of ?

the
not

Hamto

idolatry, particularly
still At retain

refuge

in

foreign
where

phorash
them,
to

Were

hearken
our

England, original

they

could
to

they
mist Even ! the
"

not

consign
vapour, thou

souls
to

designation.
all the show
are

liorror,

and
as

mire

present,
tolerated of the in

notwithstanding
in

religions genuine
selves;* themseen

and

clay

?
one

could'st,

are

Portugal,
do stead and these
not

righteous
Such
was

Jews

country
their

extraordinary
with themselves and
as

language
which I have
no

the in the

in

connection
held
to to me,

rabble
streets
no

of of

Barbary,
Lisbon
"

only
who

they
reason

which
it
was

outcasts
own

make

doubt,
in do hand

subsequently
ways and wi-etched than
one.

secret

of

their

degradation.

corroborated How well in

moi'e

superstition
! These

crime

go

Strange
to to

anecdotes,
prove be found been that
in

however,
Jews
of

are

told,
race

hand
break

beings
of
;

tending
are

the
:

ancient it ia said

the Maker
not

eternal
without

commandments

yet

Portugal

that

their
"will cloveu scales.

scruple
of the the fish beast which

but the has

to

they
un-

they

have the

discovered

under I their connected within and

stances circumam

most
to

extraordinary.
believe incidents which occurred in

the

partake
foot,
and pay
of

of

more

inclined certain certain of

existence with the will

no

from
a

strange
race,

They

slight holy

regard

tlie

denunciations

prophets

against

sphere
be

my

own

knowledge,
on.

M.iich

related

further

50

CHAPTER
Cold of

VI.
Loneliness -The

Portugal

-Extortion Elumtin"

of prevented-Sensation

Dog-Tlie
Sick.

Conve

1
,u-

Landscape"

Moorish

Fortresses"

iTayer

for the

About from

after fortnight

Evora,
for

having made
out

return my the necessary

on

feared the darlaiess had

on

my

return

from

introduced me Evora, and where,

for everything, accommodation was the superior Badajoz, inn in the square. to INIadrid. to that of tlie common intended to take the diligence for first to inquire was miles now care hundred about lies a My Badajoz distant from Lisbon, and is the principal mules to convey myselfand baggage to there are but three of Spain in the frontier town Elvas, from whence I set preparations, from my which
town

dear though I paidmercilessly ney jourI

direction of the
this it was place,
as

Alemtejo.
to

To

reach

sliort

leagues to
The
me

the road I had

to

necessary Monte Moro, which passedin my excursion already far

as

re-travel

Badajoz. pair at
to

the Spanish town peopleof the house

of formed in-

that

they had

an

excellent quired I in-

Evora

; 1 had

therefore very

little them

but disposal, my the price, they were four

when
not

from to anticipate pleasure

noveltyof

demand

moidores.
not

ashamed I offered

Moreover, in this journey I scenery. with no should be a solitary traveller, other companion than the muleteer, as
it
no was

too three, which was which, however, they did

much, but accept ;

for which Gallega, place I started at four in the afternoon. Warned I did by former experience,
not
one

my farther than Aldea

intention

to

take my

servant

embark in a small boat, but in of the regular passage felouks, in v/hich we reached Aldea Gallega, after
now a

knowing me to be an Englishman, theythoughtthey had an excellent opportunity not to practiseimposition, imaginingthat a parson so rich as an Englishman must be, would go out in of obtaining a cold nightfor the sake a ever, howreasonable bargain. They were,
for much

mistaken,

as

I told them them

content

voyage
the

heavy,
and

of six hours ; for the boat was that rather than encourage wind to propel it, their knavery I should be there was no
crew were

in
to

to ply their obliged

return

to

Lisbon

whereupon

they

huge
"

the whole Avay. In a word, dropped their demand oavs to three and a this passage was of the first, half,but I made the reverse and them no answer, safe in every respect, but so sluggish going out with Antonio, proceeded to the and tiresome, that I a hundred times house of the old man who had accompanied wished myselfagain under the guidance knocked We a us to Evora.
"

of tlie wild hurricane

before lad, galloping

over

the

considerable
at

time, for he

was

in bed

lengthhe arose and admitted us, but From he said that his eighttillten the cold was truly on hearingour object, and though I was terrible, mules were closely againgone to Evora, imder ped wrapin an excellent fur shoob," v/ith the chargeof the boy, for the purpose wliicli I had braved the frosts of Rusof transporting articles of mersian chandize. some
billows.
"

the

foaming

winters, I shiven.'d in every

and
set
was

limb,
I

He, however, recommended

us

far

more

when rejoiced

again

to

my foot on the Alemtejo,than when I landed for the first time, after having

who

kept

in the neighbourhood person there mules for hire, and

Antonio engaged two fine beasts for of the tempest. moidores two and a half. I say he 1 took for the aloof and stood for I up my quarters night engaged them, at a house which friend to who and who the spoke not, proprietor, my

escaped tlie horrors

32

THE
me

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
a

fCHAI*. of

TI.

led of and
over

to

most

place, from extraordinary

powers whom whom which I I
am

kind I

alleyan
be his
some
man

elderly man,
master, and
and civil,

which

quitebeggars the scanty

on

supposedto
I made

with description
at
one

gifted.of
walls,

inquiries ing respectwas

I stumbled

amongst
found

ruined
was

time

treading
my

vaults,as I suddenly started back

a

from
next

yawning
as

orifice into which

that he served as a soldier me under the " gi-eat in the British army, Peninsular the He war. during lord," said that there
was a

the informed

place. The

step,

I strolled

musing along,

convent

of

nuns

would
eastern

which he would sliow I prohave me. precipitated ceeded little farther on, led the the and to thereupon for a considerable way by the me, way the where stood of south-east part wall, wall, till I heard a tremendous
a

bark, and
such the
came

immense an dog, presently as those which guard the flocks in the wolves, neighbourhoodagainst

edifice. large dilapidated We entered

corner

dark

stone
was

apartment,
a

at

one

of which
a

kind

of

bounding

to

attack

me

"

with

eyes

window

by occupied
articles
were

at table, turning

that Had

glowed, and

fangs that grinned." which

received

into the

He rang the delivered out. convent had recourse to any or I retreated, or tired, of defence than that which bell, and, without saying a word, reother mode rather perplexed cumstances, leaving under me I invariably su^ cir; but practise I heard, though the speaker he would presently probably have worried
me

; but

tillmy stooped

chin

was

a invisible,

soft feminine

manding voice de-

nearly
him

knee, and looked my full in the eyes, and, as John Leytouched ballad which of Heather has

I was, and what I wanted. I replied, that I was an Englishman who

den says, in the noblest

the Land
"

produced:
he

"

The As

hound struck

he yowled, and back witli fairy charm."

fled,

into Spain; and that passing travelling throughMonte Moro I had ascended the hill for the purpose of seeing the ruins.
The
are a

voice

then

said,

"

I suppose

you

It is and

fact known it has

I believe
no

to many people, the been frequently

man military goingto fight against king, like the rest of your countrymen."
"

No,"

said

I,

"

am

not

that stated, animal of the rushes

militaryman, but a Christian ; and I dog or of any kind,with the exception go not to shed blood, but to endeavour shuts its eyes and to introduce the gospelof Christ into a bull, which upon to forward, will venture ;"whereblindly country where it is not known largeand
fierce confronts
countenance.

individual who attack an with a firm and motionless

it

there

was

stifledtitter.

I then

1 say large and fierce, for easier to repela bloodhound Finland in this manner than
cur
or a or a

if there were of the inquired any copies it is much in the convent Holy Scriptures ; but voice could giveme bear of the friendly formation inor no and I scarcely that point, a dunghill on
a

which terrier, against is a much that the

more

stick

stone

certain
no one

This considers

will astonish calm

believe that its possessor imderstood the fence.purport of my dequestion. It informed who me, that the ofiice of lady abbess of the

reproving house was an annual one, and that every the excesses a fresh superior glance of reason, which allays year there was ; on my of the mighty and courageous in did not the nuns inquiringwhether has seldom any other our own find the time species, frequently exceedingly effect than to add to the insolence of the heavy on their hands, it stated that, feeble and foolish, who become placid when they had nothing better to do, as doves ments, in making upon the inflictionof chastisethey employed themselves which, if attempted to be applied cheesecakes,which were disposedof to the former,would in the neighbourhood. I thanked the der only serve to renthem

powder
mad around The

and like gimterrible, flame,cause them, in to scatter destruction desperation,

more

voice for itscommunications, and walked

cast

on

away.
wall

Whilst of the I heard

proceedingunder
towards the louder
a

the ing titter-

house

west, south-

them.

fresh and

barking of the dog broughtout

above

my

head,

and

lookingup,

THAP.

VI.]
three
or

THE
four

BIBLE
crowded

IN

SPAIN.

33

saw

windoMs
black
to

dusky faces, and hair; these belonged

with

waviug
nuns,

the

before I could reach the hostelry where I intended to pass the night. I bent my steps to the inn, passing
kind of rampart
:

anxious to obtain
After moved

^dew hand

of the

stranger. alonga
at

before shortly
I

kissingmy
on,

I repeatedly,

I reached

the

portal,which

have

and

soon

arrived

the

of end of this mountain south-west I the found There remains curiosities. to which seemed of a largebuilding, have been
a

alreadymentioned,I observed a kind of vault on my right hand, scooped out

of the

erected originally
cross.

in

the

shapeof
entrance

was

A tower at its eastern still entire; the western

quitein ruins,and stood on the verge of the hill overlooking of which the the bottom ran at valley,
side
was

the

side of the hill ; its roof was supported by three pillars, though part of it had givenway towards the farther admitted end, so that the light was in the It a chasm through top. might have been intended for a chapel, a dungeon, or a cemetery, but I should
rather think I
am

for the

latter ;

one

thing

stream

I have

spoken

of

on

former

occasion.
The
was

work

certain of, that it was not the of Moorish and indeed hands;

throughout day my wandering in this place I of the the coldness saw preceding nothing which reminded me of standing of Portugal that most and the brilliant sun 1nights; singular people. The hill on of entrancing which the ruins stand was illumined a landscape doubtless now of of the a fortress Groves covered cork-trees Moors, beauty. originally strong and the into the the farther side of the valley who, upon their firstirruption here and seized and fortified inost of distant acclivities, peninsula, exhibiting where the lofty and naturally various there charming vistas, strong positions, but theyhad probably lost it at an early flocks of cattle were feeding ; the soft that the broken of the stream, which walls and so at was murmur period, the hill, which at present cover intervals chafed and broken by huge edifices, and filled are to my ears stones, ascended probably remains of the labours of the Christians after the place had I sat my mind Avith delicious feelings.
hot, notwithintensely
r ;

]down
:
'

on

the broken

wall and

remained

been

rescued will mind

from

the

hands

of

the

gazing, and
tears of
a

and listening,

shedding terribleenemies
the

of their faith. recall

rapture ; for of all the pleasures Moro

bountiful God

perhaps
of the

Monte Cintra to
it
hibits ex-

'"which

permitteth his
are so

as traveller,

children to hearts isome

distant resemblance to that dear to a and there is something of forests, as the music place ; nevertheless, streams, and the view of the beauties of in Cintra Avild and savage, to which its has Moro Ms glorious creation. An hour elapsed, Monte no pretension; and scathed the and I stillmaintained my seat on piled gigantic crags are

enjoy,none

before my
then

wall ; the past scenes eyes in

of my life flitting upon airy and fantastic seems

each
to

other
menace

in

manner

which

destruction headlong

iarray, through which

peeped patches of the
trees

every

now

and other I

to

whatever
the

is in the like

neighbourhood ;
nests eagles'

and

and hills,
sun

and

ruins which
more

stillcling to those than

real

which landscape

burnt was my it heeded but lieve I visage, not; and I betill that I should have remained in these buried which, reveries, night, I

the confronting;

crags seem the remains

of of the habitations even those of Monte Moro Moors ; whereas stand comparatively on at their ease the broad back of a hill, which, though and commanding, stately and which nor precipices,
on

confess, only

serve

to

enervate

the

has
can

no

mind, and steal many a minute which had might be most profitably employed,
the report of the gun of a fowler in the echoes ,the valley, which awakened of the woods, hills, and ruins,caused
not

every
I
was

side

without

crags be ascended much

: yet difficulty

much gratified by far indeed and I shall wander my visit, the voice in the dilapibefore I forget dated

imc

to start

on

my

and feet,

remember which

convent, the ruined walls amongst

I

that I had

to

proceed three leagues

strayed,and

the

rampart,
D

34

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

"71.

where,

sunk
a

in

dreamy
sunny

rapture,
hour
at

I Monte

sat

and
pray

vigour,
to

and

that

it

was

her

duty
with did
an

to

during
Moro.
I

bright

that I how

Omnipotent
added,
pray
to

Being
that if she

all
not
sion, occa-

fervency.
returned
to

the
tea

inn,
and

where very the

1 sweet

freshed re-

know I

to

upon
pray in

such
for the

myself
and delicious
of the
nuns

with

was

ready
would

her, spmt

vided proo.

cheesecakes,
in the
convent

work handiabove.
on

she the short

join
I then

supplication.
prayer
the in

offered
in
remove,

up

Observing
the
countenances

gloom

and
of the the almost fire her
;

unhappiness people
reason

Portuguese,
Lord
the
to

which
if affliction he

of of

the the
on

entreated

house, hostess,
the hearth

I who

inquired
sat

thought
under
The her prayer
a me

proper, which
woman

burden
was

of

motionless

the

family

labouring.
with the
at

by
me

the that

whereupon
husband

she
was

listened

attentively,

informed

hands
was

devoutly
finished,
with

clasped,
and
then

until

deadly
her

sick

with

disorder I
;

which,
to

from be tbe

gazed

description,
of who cholera

supposed
she

seemingly
no

astonisliment,

but I
or

species
surgeon
no

added,
him

that_
entertained
I

uttered

word
she what
was

by

which

could
pleased dis-

attended
of
his recovery. in the

gather

that with

pleased
I

topes
it
restore
was

replied
of

had

said. and

now

that
to

quite
her

power
in
a

God
hours

bade mounted

the

family
my

farewell,
set

having
to

husband
of the

few
to

mule,

forward

Ar-

from

the

verge

grave

health

royolos.

35

CHAPTER
The Druid's Stone" Brawl
"

VII.
Evils Old of War" and

The
Ruined

young

Watch-Tower

Soldiers Spaniard" Ruffianly Glimpse of Spain

" "

"

Estremoz" New.

The

Times

about a leagueand proceeding came booming from the it clouds b efore immense north,rolling it did not blow in our of dust ; happily

After
a

unknown

God.
and modem

The

temples of the

half,a blast

mighty of tively
to

skilful

Roman, comparahave crumbled date,

faces,or it would have been difficult to We itsviolence. so was proceed, great

had left the of

dust in its neighbourhood. I'he churches of the Arian Goth, his successor
m

road in order
one

to

take advantage and earth, cuts,

of

those

short

for a horse or which, though passable far too rough to permitany a mule, are of carriage to species travel

"We

were

in the midst

alongthem. wood, of sands,brush-

the and the ; of the Moor, the conqueror mosQues of and what tne Tiom, where are they? of hoary and Upon the rock, masses Not the Druid's so vanishingruin. power,
are

have

sunk

beneath

not

to be found

stone

; there

it stands
and
as

on

the

hill of
new

of rock,which huge pieces thickly studded the ground. These

are

of

as freshly centuries back, day, perhapsthirty the stones wliich form the sierras when it was first raised,by means a are Spain and Portugal ; those singular Avhich mystery. Earthquakes

and

winds, as strong

the

which rise in naked mountains horridcass ness, like the ribs of some mighty carfrom which the flesh has been torn.

heaved it, but its cope-stone has fallen ; rain floods have delugedit, but failed to sweep it from its station ;
have
not

the burning sun has flashed upon stones, or rocks, it, grew and many crumbled it ; and nor earth, lay on its but neither split surface unattached, perhaps wrested time,stem old time,has rubbed it with from their bed by the waters of the his iron tooth, and with what effect let
out

Many

of these

of the

deluge.

Whilst toiling along these those who view it declare. There it wild wastes, I observed,a littleway to and he who wishes to studythe stands, of of gular sinrather the learning, and the history stones a pile a literature, my left, and rode it. of the ancient Celt and Cymbrian, may appearance, up to It was and the most a Druidical and glean altar, gaze on its broad covering,

perfectand
which

beautiful

one

of the

kind

from
amoimt.

that blank
The

stone

the whole has

known

lar, circuI had ever It was seen. and consisted of stones immensely

him and

largeand
towards
.

heavy
the

at

the

bottom, which

left behind his deathless writings, his history, his songs ; the Goth his liturgy, his

Roman

thinner and top became thinner, having been fashioned by the

and traditions,

hand of
of

art

to

of something These towards Three have

or

the
were

shape
mounted sur-

scollopshells.

the germs of noble institution the INIoor his his chivalry, ; discoveries in medicine, and the foundations of modem and where commerce ; is the memorial Yonder
at
:

by
where
was a

very

flat stone, lai'ge the

of the Druidic

races

wliich slanted down

door.

south,
shelter

that

pileof
at

eternal stone

four

dividuals inWe

arrived

might
a

taken

night.
to

I took
room,

about seven Arroyolos of a large possession

within the interior, in which

was ing growsmall thorn-tree. I gazedwith reverence and awe upon the pile where the first colonies of Europe offered their worship to the

two-bedded

I was piesupper, the hostess came whether I had to inquire to receive a young niard Spaany objection

and, as
to

paring

sit down

for the

night.

She

said he had
")2

THE

BIBLE

IN
town

SPAIN.
or

CHAP. I

VII.

just arrived
and which that
an

with had

train of muleteers,
no

largevillagesituated on

that I

she

other

room

elevated
It

ground,and
can

very discernible afar

remains of
a

she could
was

lodge him. and in willing,

replied oft".
half

boast of the

about

hour first

he made

supped with

his appearance, having his companions.

large ancient and seemmgly Moorish castle,which stands on a hill on the left as you take the road to Estremoz.
a

He in that

About a very ing good-lookgentlemanly, lad of seventeen. He addressed me a his native language, and, finding number
was

mile

from

ArroyolosI

took overa

train of
of Six
a

carts, escorted by ammunition

of these in

veying Portuguese soldiers,con-

I understood

him, he commenced

stores

and
seven

into

with astonishing In volubility. talking the space

me

Spam.
marched

or

soldiers
front ;

of five minutes
a

he mformed
to
see

considerable way

that, having
had
were

desire
away

the his

they
upon the

were

villanous-looking ruffians,
livid and ghastly nances countewritten murder, and all the decalogue crimes which

world, he who friends, at Madrid,

to return

run

from

whose
were

peopleof

opulence

that he did not intend until he had travelled through and

was

other

various what

countries.

he said

i rue,

I told him he had

that done

if
a

very wicked because he those with

to honour
as

and foolish action ; wicked, overwhelmed have must

forbids. As I passed by, one of them, commenced with a harsh, croaking voice, " all foreigners. There," said he, cursing " back," is this Frenchman ridingon horse-

(Iwas
"

on

mule,)

"

with

a man

"

griefwhom
and he
was

he

was

bound
self himships, hardhim

love, and

inasmuch foolish, expose and

cause

(the idiot) to take care of him, and all he is rich ; whilst I, who because am a
am soldier, obligedto pool foot. I could find it in my shoot him dead, for in what

goingto

tramp
heart

on

to inconceivable miseries

to

which
to
rue

would

shortly

respect is
is a

the

step he had taken; that he

he

better

than

I?

But

he

reigner, fo-

hates the Portuguese." He tinued conuntil I spend,and when he had none, he would shouting his remarks would be repulsed as a vagabond, and got about fortyyards in advance, when be allowed of I commenced to perish hunger. laughing; but it would perhaps He replied have been more that he had a considerable prudent in me to have
sum

would be in foreign only welcome countries so long as he had money and to

and

the devil

helps foreigners

hundred
a

with him, no less than a which would last him dollars, long time, and that when it was spent

of money

held with A

my

peace, for the

next

moment,

bullets, well bang" bang, two aimed, came whizzing past my ears.
small
the my
on

he
more.

should
"

perhaps be
Your

able

to

obtain

river

lay just before

me,

hundred

dollars,"said

though
way

last you three months I, " will scarcely in the country in which are, even you if it be not stolen from you ; and you

a considerable bridge was animal left. I spurred my

well hope to gathermoney as on may the tops of the mountains as expect to by honourable means." procure more he But had not drank yet sufficiently of the cup of experience to attend much I said,and I soon to what after changed the he
as

followed by the terrified through it,closely commenced and gallopmg guide, the other side, on along a sandy plain and so escapedwith my life.
These
were

fellows, with
in
no

respect better
should
meet

ditti, the look of banand the ; them One in

a

traveller who
to

solitary place wovdd

bless his the had

have

littlereason of the

subject.
to

About

part. to depreparing I gave him the usual Spanish valediction ( Vai/ansted con Dios),and
were

came my his muleteers

five next morning bed-side to take leave,

good

fortune.

carriers (all of whom

from and
whom

were Spaniards of Badajoz, neighbourhood into Portugal been despatched

for the purpose of

conveyingthe stores),
in the aforesaid

saw

no

more

of him.

I afterwards met

At nine, after having paid a most orbitant town, exfor slight accommodation, sum were

I started from

which Arroyolos,

is

that the whole partyequally bad, and that he and his bj I companions had been plundered
me

informed

CHAP.

VII.1
of various death if

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN-

37

and threatened articles, kept in the neighbourhoodfor the purpose of catchingthe wolves to complain. and wild they attempted How to figure to oneself had boars, and for which the proprietor frightful of in refused such moidores. an a foreign beings twenty army At length reached Estremoz, and land, sent thither either to invade or we defend; and yet Spain at the time I took up our quarters at the principal am inn,which looks upon a largeplain or writing this is looking forward armed to assistance from ! Portugal market-place occupying the centre of in his mercy the and which is so extensive May the Lord town, grant that the soldiers who diers proceed to her that I should think ten thousand solassistance may be of a different stamp : at least might perfonn their evolutions with and

them

yet, from
which in and

the

lax

state

of

cipline disThe
me

there with cold

to
was

ease.

exists in the

army,

comparisonwith
France, I
say
to
am

that of

Portuguese land Engthat the have foxes

far too terrible to permit remain in the chamber to been

to

afraid that

which

I had
went

inoffensive
been

of the population chase

disturbed
one

down
the A

conducted ; I therefore kind of kitchen on

to

provinceswill
summoned the

wolves away

side of the

arched house

led under stables,

passage, which the yard and

blast withering poured through this passage, like the longer be tolerated in any civilized,water through the flush of a mill. A or at least Christian country. chen largecork-tree was blazingin the kitI pursued my beneath a spacious to Estremoz, route chimney ; and around it were passingby Monte Moro Novo, which gathereda noisy crew is a tall dusky hill, of peasants and surmounted farmers from the by an ancient edifice, and three or four Spaneighbourhood, probablyMoorish. The nish dreary and deserted,but country was smugglers from the frontier. I with difficult}'here and there a valley studded obtained a place offering amongst with cork-trees and azinheiras. After them, as a Portugueseor a Spaniard mid-day the wind, which during the will seldom make way for a stranger, aoatevl. till called upon or night and moniing had much pushed aside,but him with an pression exagainblew with such violence as nearly prefers gazmg upon to deprive of my which to say, I know me seems senses, though it stillin our what you want, but I preferremaining "Was rear. ing where I am. I was heartily glad when, on ascendI now first began to observe an alterfour ation a risingground, at about its hill at in the language spoken; it had I saw Estremoz on o'clock, and more distance. become less sibilant, guttural somethingless than a league's ; ing interestwhen Here the view became each the and, othei', addressing wildly was tesy speakers used the Spanishtitle of coursinkingin the midst ; the sun
see

from the

O ! may I live to sheep-fold. will when no day soldiery

tremendous

of red and
were

stormy clouds, and

on

reflected

the dun
we

walls

its rays of the

or listed,

your

worthiness,instead

of the
se,
or

town lofty

to which

were

wending.
rose

Portuguesehigh flowingvosseni This is the result your lordship.

communication who Spain,
never

Not far distant to the south-west Serra Dorso, which I had seen

of
to

constant

with when
use

tlie in

from idiot

natives of

condescend
of their haps, per-

Evora, and
mountain

which in the his

is the most uncouth

beautiful

speak Portuguese,even
in the persist future beautiful
at
some

Alemtejo. My

but Portugal,

guide

turned

it, and
time
say and
was

wards own visage tospired, inbecoming suddenly

language, which,

for the first opened his mouth would I the during might almost day, hitherto kept asunder since Ave had left Aldea the two countries, Gallega, the natural what tell to rare me waywardness of mari' began hunting by
to

tuguese the Porperiod, will generally adopt. This greatlyfacilitate the union of

be

obtained wonderful

in that with

mountain.

kind.

He

likewise
a

described

dog,

been seated long before nuteness I had not great miwhen a fellow, mounted the which was blazing pile,

S8

THE
a

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN,

[chap, vh

on

soon horse, dashed from spirited emerged upon wild bleak doTvns, through the passage into the over which the wind, which still pursued kitchen, where he commenced most ing displayus, howled mournfully. We his horsemanship, by causingthe met no one on the route ; and the scene animal to wheel about with the velocity was desolate in the extreme ; the heaven of a mill-stone, to the great danger of of a dark grey, through which was no glimpseof the sun was to be perceived. every body in the apartment. He then after Before out upon the plain, and on an galloped us, at a great distance, half an hour's absence elevated ground, the only a tower rose returned, and in more object which broke the monotony of the havingplacedhis horse once

fine

the stables

"

the
next

stable, came
to me,
a

and whom

seated he which

himself I imder-

waste.

In about when
a we

two

hours

from

the
we it,

to

commenced he intended

time hill

first discovered the foot it stood ; the into a long stone and
to

m talking

of gibberish but little, He

was

reached
on

fountain,at

of the

stood very for French. and

which half

which

water,

intoxicated, which
was

gushed

trough,
the

three parts so, by became soon swallowingglassafter glassof aguardiente. Finding that I made him no
answer,

and

clear beautifully we stopped here

transparent,
water

animals.

he directed in bad
or

his discourse
whom The

to one

Having dismounted,I
and which
ascent

leftthe
the

guide,
hill
on

of

the

to contrabandistas,

he latter

proceeded
the
was

to

ascend stood.

talked him him

Spanish.
would
not

tower

Though

the

either did not

; but at
a

understand
to hold

very

called last, losing patience, told him

it without

drunkard, and

wounded boots and my my which he was much at the Spaniard's feet ; and the distance was drinking greater and than I had expected. I at last arrived head, who sprang up like a tiger, and snee at the ruin, for such it was. I fomad a snick unsheathinginstantly

his tongue. The fellow, enraged at this contempt, fiung the glass out of

ground which,

was

I did not accomplish gentle, the difficulty; covered with sharpstones,

or

in two

three

cut instances,

through

made an knife, upward cheek, and would laid it open, had I not down just in time to effects than
a

cut

at

the

low's It had fel-

been

one

of those watch-towers

small or infallibly atalaias pulled his arm

have

fortresses called in
;

Portuguese

prevent
the

worse

by
The

scratch

above

lower blood. fered, interhim

square, and surrounded wall,broken down in many places. itself had no door, the lower tower
stone
at

it was

jaw-bone,which, however, drew The smuggler's companions

and off to
a

part being of solid

one

work

; but on

side

were

crevices

intervals between of

with

much

led difficulty

the

stones, for the purpose

apai'tment in the rear of the house, where and kept they slept, the furniture of their mules. The
drunkard rather then commenced

small

and the feet, placing about

or singing, the Marseillois hymn ; yelling, and after having annoyed every one been built for the accommodation evidently for nearlyan of business it was was those whose hour, persuaded to his horse and mount the frontier, and at to keep watch panied on depart,accomthe appearance of an to alarm by one of his neighbours. He enemy of the vicinity, a pig merchant was but the country by signals probably by a had been in a the fire. Resolute fended formerly men trooper might have de"

I climbed to a five feet square, from which the had fallen. It commanded an tensive extop ^dew had fi'om all sides, and

case up this rude stairsmall apartment,

army
he had

of

Napoleon, where,
coachman his French

like the drunken

I suppose, of Evora, and his

themselves

in this little fastness

pickedup

habits of intoxication.
From Estremoz to Elvas the distance is six leagues. I started at nine next morning ; the first part of the way lay

who must have assailants, against many been completely their to arrows exposed or musketry in the ascent. Being about to leave the place, I heard

through an

inclosed country, but

we

strange cry behind a part of I had not visited,and I found a miserable thither, hastening
a

the wall

which

40

CHAPTER

VIII.

Elvas"

Extraordinary Longevity" The

Fortifications"

Portuguese Ingratitude"liliberaiity" English Nation Spanish Beggar" Badajoz" The Custom-House.

"

Arrived
cer
came

at
out

the of
a

gate of Elvas,
kind
of
some

an

ofii-

was

with and sported girl,

on

the

ters daugh"

and, having asked me despatched a soldier

that police-office, be

guardhouse, questions,that case,"

me

of the town the

"

the hill-side,"
"

In
member re-

said I,

you

doubtless
"

with

to

the

earthquake."

Yes," she
in
: ment, mo-

viseed,as
more

upon in

passport might my the frontier they are respect to

This other

replied, if there is any my life that I remember,

was

occurrence

it is that
at the

much

with particular been the

in the the

church

of Elvas of the his

passports than
matter
an

parts.

having near hostelry

been

I entered settled,
same

and shall

hearing the mass priestfell on

Host from how forget
us

the king, ground,and hands. I

gate, which
to
me

let fall the

never

had

recommended

by

my
was

the earth

shook;

host at Vendas

Novas,
of the

and
name

wliich

it made

kept by
Eosado.

person It was the

of Joze

and walls
that

reeled

all sick ; and the houses Since like drunkards. I have

seen
was

best

in the town,
dation, accommo-

happened
by

fourscore older then this

though,for convenience
inferior to
a

and

hedge alehouse in still pursued me, The cold England. and I was glad to take refuge in an
inner
was

years pass than you are now with I looked her assured of
was a

me,

yet I
"

wonder
could I
was

at

prising sur-

female, and
words. and She that she

lieve bescarcely

kitchen, which,
not
was

when

the

door

was,

however,

by a only lighted open, fire burning somewhat dimly on the An elderly hearth. female sat beside
it in her
was

in

fact

upwards
iu
use

himdred

ten

years of age, and

oldest

considered
faculties

the in

her chair, telling her the

beads

there

Portugal.
of her the

person the still retained

as

something singularand
in

dinary extraor-

full

degree as
who her have

look, as well

as

I could

of generality

people

discern

apartment.

age. imperfectlightof the scarcely attained the related to the people of the few unimportant She was a she replied, house. to her, to which questions As the night advanced, several perl)ut seemed to be aflB.ictedto a slight sons of enjoyentered for the purpose with deafness. hair Her was ing degree and for the of the fire, lieved the comfort becoming grey, and I said that I behouse was for the she was of older than but sake conversation, myself, the prinwhere that I was confident kind of she had less snow a cipal news-room,

by

half of

I put

on
"

her

head. old may

" you be, cavalier ? that title which in

speaker was
some

the and soldier others

host,
in
was

man

of

How

shrewdness served
as a

who experience, the British the officer

said she, givingme

had

Spain is
be
near
were

used generally

when

an

ordinary extra-

degree of respect is wished I answered that I exhibited. thirty. Then," said she, that I am rightin supposing older than 1 am yourself;
" "

to
was

Amongst araiy. commanded at who

few
was

j'ou older your : it

the gate. After a who observations, this gentleman, of fi^' man a good-looking young
to burst

and-twenty,began
violent declamation nation had
at

forth

than

mother,
is
more

or

your
a

mother's hundred

mother years

and

the English! against government, who, he said,!

than

since I

all times

provedthemselves

sel-

CHAP.

VIII.

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
with

41

but that their present fish and deceitful, in respect to for infamous, cuhirly conduct their power
to

Spain was partithough it was in

end
to the
war

put

an

ther, domestic policy." by sending a large army thiThis answer of mine, I confess,was they preferredsendinga handful of troops, in order that the war might not that of a Christian,and proved to than be prolonged, for no other reason how much of the leaven of the anme cient ing Havthat it was of advantage still pervaded me to them. man 1 yet ; to add that I believe paid him an ironical compliment must be permitted I asked other provocation for his politeness and urbanity, would have cited elino whether fish from me he reckoned a amongst the selreplyso full of angry actions of the English government I could not command : but feeling self myand when I heard nation, their having expended own glorious my land traduced in this unmerited hundreds of millions of poimds sterling, ner. manand an ocean of preciousblood, ? A Portuguese! A By whom native of a country which in fightingthe battles of Spain and has been able Portugalagainst Napoleon. Surely," twice liberated from horrid and detestthraldom said I, the fort of Elvas above our by the hands of Englishmen. the castle of BaBut for Wellington and his heads,and still more the water, speak volumes have been dajoz over heroes, Poi-tugalwould and French at this day ; but for Napier and respecting English selfishness, his mariners, Miguel would be firm now must, every time you view them, conin the opinion which it in Lisbon. To return, however, lording you you have just expressed. And then, with to the officer : every one laughed went respect to the present combat in Spain, at him, and he presently away. the gratitude which that country evinced The next acquainted day I became to England after the tradesman, of the French, by with a respectable of English armies, had of Almeida, a of talent, been means man name couraging expelled, gratitude evinced by disthough rather rough in his manners. the trade of England on all He expressedgreat abhorrence of the and in had occasions, so long spread by offering papal system, which up masses when the English heretics of death, over his a darkness, like that thanksgiving quittedthe Spanish shores,ought unfortunate country ; and I had no informed him that I had brought to induce now sooner England to exhaust and ruin for the of with certain quantityof Testasake ments, a me herself, hunting
at once,
" "
"

quainte
your of conduct which
as

pomegranates

and the

lotas bo-

lordshipis
in

with

line

it is incumbent her

upon

England

to

pursue

foreign and

Don Carlos out of his mountains. In deference to your superiorjudgment," leave continued the
war

which for
a

it
at

was

my
to

intention than he undertake

to
pressed ex-

sale

Elvas,

I to the

officer,

"

I will

deavour en-

great desire
said that
power

the sale
tomers. cus-

be for to believe that it would of the advantage England were

and charge,
utmost

he would
to procure

do the
a

in his

prolongedfor
favour in

an

indefinite do
me

period ;
a

for them

amongst

his

numerous

nevertheless, you

would

is upon name by explainingby blood shed in the chemistry process Portuguese version of tin page ; will find its into the circulated Spain by th" English Holy Scriptures, way in the of Bible been execute shape gold." treasury Society,having As he was meida, of Alof the name not swer, ready with his anby a Protestant, 1 took up a plateof fruit which and first pul^lished in the year stood on the table beside me, and said, 1712; whereupon he smiled, and served ob"

Upon particular what remarked, your

showing

him

copy, I the title

What
"

do

you

call

these
"

fruits ?

"

that he esteemed be connected

a

it an

honour

to

"

Pomegranates and bolotas," he replied. said bred homea I, Right," Englishman could not have given
that
answer

in

name

at

man.

He

scoffed at of feeling

least with such the idea of receiving

any remuneration, and

me

assured

me

; yet he is

as

much

ac-

that the

being permitted

42

THE

BIBLE
useful
a

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. VIII.

English are so popular as in France j have been frequently the circulation of the Scripas cause tures but, though the French handled the was by lish, Engroughly quitea sufficient reward. their capital After having accomplishedthis matand have seen occupied ter, I prvjceeded the environs to survey by an English anny, they have of the place,and strolled up the hill to been to the supposed never subjected of the fort on the north side of the town. receivingassistance from ignominy
to

co-operate in

so

holy and

The with is

lower

part of the hill

is

piantea

1 mem.

which azinheiras,

of The fortifications give it"a picturesque

Elvas

are

models

and at the bottom appearance, I crossed small brook, which by of Arrived at stepping-stones. stoppedby told civilly
name my he would officer,

of their kind, and, at view, it if well garwould that the town, seem risoned,

the first

means

might bid
power the
western
at hill,

defiance

to

any

tile hos-

the gate of the fort, I was the sentry, who, however,

me

; but

it has

its weak

side is commanded
a

: point by a

that

if I sent

in

to

the
no

the distance of half

an

mile, from

commanding
to objection

make

which

the interior. I cannonade my visiting in this part of dier It is the last town accordinglysent in my card by a solwho ting Portugal, the distance to the Spanish was lounging about, and, sitdown his return. on a stone, waited frontier being barely two leagues. It He joz, built as a rival to Badapresently appeared,and inquired was evidently whether from its I was down it looks which an Englishman ; to upon which in the affirmative, height across a having replied sandy plain and over he

experiencedgeneral would cess. it, and probablywith suc-

said, In that enter ; indeed, it

"

case.

Sir. you
the

cannot to

the sullen waters

of the

Guadiana; but,
it
to
can

is not

custom

though a strong town,

be called a defence which is open on all would
an

scarcely
frontier,
that there

to permit any foreigners

visit the fort." indifferent perfectly I visited

a

the

I answered
to
not
me

that

it

was

so sides,

whether taken the

it

or

not

be the

and, having
from

Badajoz
This of blood with

eastern

of sm'vey side of the

hill,descended
is and
one

the way I came. of the beneficial results

by

invadingarmy of leagues avoid to disposed

dozen
are men

for necessity slightest within a to apjjroach its walls, should them. be

event

it be

tions Its fortificato required

so

extensive

that ten thousand

man

and squandering a nation, protecting

treasure

at

least would far better

in its defence.
never

The
at
war

them, who, in the

of

an

invasion,
in meeting

English, who

have

been

might be
French,

employed

who have Portugal, foughtfor land and sea, and on independence with drink
no

its
ways al-

the enemy

field. The in the open their occupation of during

a

success,
a

who

have

forced

Portugal,kept
place,who,
at

small the

force

in

this
tish, Bri-

themselves,by
its
coarse

they capitulated. visit Portugal. unpopular people who Having nothingfarther to detain me at The French have ravaged the country the frontier to cross Elvas, I proceeded with fire and sword, and shed the blood into Spain. My idiot guide was liis on of its sons like water the French back Aldea to ; buy way Gallega; and, on
to

to treaty of commerce, and filthy wines, which to

the

approach of the
where fort,

retreated

other nation

cares

taste,

are

the most

after shortly

not

its fruits, and is

no

loathe

its The

wines, yet

the fifth of

January,
bridle who

I mounted
or

sorry
fol
me

there towards

bad

spirit in

Portugal
reason

the

French.

of

mule, without I guided by a

lowed
on

which stirrups,
to

of halter, and species

was

this is no mystery ; it is the nature not of the Portuguese only, but of corrupt
and
to dislike his unregenerate man, benefits who, by conferring benefactors, in the most upon him, mortify generous
manner

by
to

lad

attend arrive But need

another, I spurred down

the

the hill of
to

Elvas

plain, eager
romantic that I had

in I
to

old chivalrous
soon

Spain.
no

found

his miserable

vanity.
the

There

is

no

country in which

quicken the beast which bore me, for, though covered with sores, wall-eyed^

CHAP.

VIII.]
with
a

THE
of than

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

43

and

kiud

halt in its gait, it half

an

cantered arrived who

along like the wind.

at
a

In little more between

was

hour
ran

brook, whose

waters

steep banks.

'

I
'

standingon the side directed dialect of to the ford in the squeaking me ing Portugal; but whilst I was yet splashthrough the water, a voice from the hailed me, in the magnifiother bank cent language of Spain,in this guise:
"

diana,
far and and
we

reverberated Guadiana, which wide, pronounced by the clear

of many
a

strong voices in chorus

maid and

gorously vidark-cheeked

matron.

man

some thought there was their employment

analogy
own

tween be:

was

about of

to

tan

my

my northern

and

plexion com-

sun

by exposing myself to the Spain,in the humble hope of

to

hot ing befoul

able stains of

cleanse from

some

of the minds

Popery

the

of its
quaintance ac-

una

de listed children,with whom I had SeTior Cahallero, que me de Dios, una whilst lilimosna por amor were they ; para que io me vino tinto." the love
me,

little

bronzing

I mosnita

compre of

un

tra-

themselves order
to

on

the banks white of my

of the river in the

an

de guillo
an

(Charity, Sir
God,
bestow I may

make

garments of
eastern
"

Cavalier,for
alms
a

strangers : the words

returned
"

poet
day,

upon mouthful of red I

was on

that

purchase
ment mo-

to forcibly

mind

wine.) In a Spanishground, as
Acaia, is

I '11 weary To As

myself

each

night and
brothers
own

each
;

the the
I

brook, which

is called

aid my unfortunate tans tlie laundress her cleanse the

face in the ray,

boundary here of the two kingdoms,aud, arrived we having flungthe beggar a small piece Having crossed the bridge, of silver, I cried in ecstasy Santiago at the northern gate, when out rushed from a species of sentry-boxa fellow y cierra Espaila!" and scoured on my with more Anspeed than before,paywearing on his head a high-peaked way ing, to the dalusian hat,with his figurewrapped as Gil Bias says, little heed which of blessings the mendiof those immense torrent cloaks so up in one well known have travelled cant poured forth in my rear : yet never to those who and which none but a Spaniard \ was more charity unwiselybestowed,for in Spain, I I was informed that the in a becoming manner out can wear : withsubsequently who t fellow was confirmed dininkard, a sayinga word, he laid hold of the his station every morning at the r took halter of the mule, and began to lead it t ford, he remained the whole where day through the gate up a dirty street, from for the purpose of extorting crowded with long-cloaked money peoplelike he the passengers, which I asked him what he meant, regularly himself. of but he deigned not to return an swer; anspent every night in the wine-shops the boy, however, who waited Badajoz,To those who gave him money and to those who said that it was he returned blessings, of the one me upon and that he was ing conductrefused, curses; being equally skilled gate-keepers,
" L
'"

To

garments of others."

and fluent in the

use

of either. in view, at the distance than half a league.

to the

us

to

the Custom-house

or

Alfan-

Badajoz
\ We
I

was

now

of little more
soon

took

tuni

towards left,
across

bridge of

many

arches

the

amined. dega,where the baggage would be exthe fellow, Having arrived there, who still maintained a dogged silence, began to pull the trunks oft"the

in Guadiana, which, though so famed sumpter-mule, and is a very unpicturesque ing them. I was song and ballad,

commenced about his my

was

imcord-

sti'eam, shallow
wide tolerably with had
was

and

sluggish, though
were

severe

reproof for
I could I then open found looked
me,
an

give him a but brutality;

to

; its banks

white

before who and

mouth the for

a

stout

linen

which

the

washerwomen

elderly personage
soon

appearedat
at
me

the

door,

spreadout to dry in the sun, which shming brightly; I heard their singing at a great distance,and the theme of the seemed to be the praises for river where they were toiling, as I could GuaI distinguish approached

principal
moment

officer.

He if I

asked
was

in the

guage, EnglishlanEnglishman. On
manded deto

my

in replying

the

affinnative,he
he dared

of the fellow how

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

Till.

of without cord them without then

:

the I
was

subordinate,
at

and
to

informed

orders,
up
on

and trunks

sternly again
which he

bade and

the the

place

mule,
a

performed
The

lence
him
me

that

liberty
proper.

proceed
thanked
;

where him

thought

for

his

exceeding
of
to

politeness
the

and,
the

uttering
asked I

word. the clothes

man gentletained con-

imder best of

guidance
my
to

boy,
Inn had of bsen

made the Three

mended recom-

what

tinmks and for the

way which Elvas.

the I

answered

linen

Nations,
at

v/hen

he

begged

pardon

inso-

45

CHAPTER

IX.

the Gypsy Antonio's Proposal The Beilajoi"Antonio from fast Badajoz The Gypsy Donkey Departure
"

"

Proposal accepted Gypsy

"
"

iJreak*
"

"

"

Merida

"

The
"

ruined The

Wall

The

Crone" '

The

Land

of the Moor"

The

Black

Men"

Life in the Desert

Supper.
can

"WAS

now

at

a Badajoz in Spain,

try counwas

Such MjiseJf.
"

is my

intention ; I

years longer. of my labours : Antonio. The way is far to Madridestined to be the scene lati The but I will not anticipate. in the bourhood : there are, moreover, neighwars of Badajoz did not prepossess walk laud, and many chories {thieves) in favour of the country much about ; are you not afraid to journey? me which I had just entered; it consists I have no fears man MtjscJf.
next
no
" "

-which for the

four

stay here

every

of chiefly

brown

moors,

wliich

bear

of brushwood, called little but a species mountains in Spanish carrasco ; blue

are,

falls beaccomplishhis destiny : what soul in or written was a body my a thousand before gabicote {booh) years
must

however,

seen

towering up

in the
scene

the foundation of the world.

far from

which relieve the distance, the monotony which would

Antonio.
brother
me

"

have

no

fears

myself,
same

other-

"vrise pervadeit.

as

; the dark night is the the fair day,and the wild

to

carras-

of Badajoz,the cal as the market-place It was at this town the chardy or of Estremadura, that I first fr 11 {fair) I have the bar in my lachi capital got ; in with those singular bosom, the precious stone people,the Zinto which cali,Gitanos, or Spanish gypsies. It sticks the needle.
was man

here

I met the the

with

the wild

Paco, the
who his

Myself.
"

You you

mean

the

I loadstone,
a

with

withered

arm,

suppose.
stone
can

Do

believe that you from

lifeless
gers danyour

wielded

cachas

with {shears)

preserve

the

left hand; his shrewd wife, Antonia, skilled in hokkano baro, or the great
trick ; the nerce gypsy, Antonio their father-in-law ; and many almost the

which life?

threaten occasionally
"

Lopez,
other of
was

Antonio.

Brother, I
me

old, and

individuals singular equally

or

Errate,

gypsy

blood. commenced

It

here that I first preached the the g}psy translation the which

gospel to
that in

in you that be unless the bar lachi had power ? I have been soldier and contrabandista, and robbed bullets of the Gabine {French) and of the jara canallis {revenue have hissed about officers) my without injuring ears me, for I carried the bar lachi. I have twenty times the Busne. The that which I have

see you life and

am fifty years standingbefore strength;how could

people,and
of the New

likewise slain and

Testament

of Spanishgypsy tongue, a portion I subsequently Madrid. at printed

a

After I
,

stay of three weeks

at

joz, Bada-

late

one

preparedto depart for ^Madrid : I was as aftenioon, arranging done

have

by Busnc'e law
to the

should

my scanty baggage,the gypsy Antonio entered apartment, dressed in his my

zamarra
(

broughtme
yet my

filimicha ( gallows),

and

high-peakedAndalusian
Good that
on

hat.
Antonio.
"

evening, brother
the callicaste

neck has never yet been the cold squeezed by garrote. Brother, I trust in the bar lachi,like the Galore of old : were I in the midst of the gulph of Bombardo
to float upon,

they tell me
ror

(day

Avithout {Lyons), I should feel

no

plank

after to-morroio) you

Madrilati.

intend to set out

if I carried

fear ; for the precious stone,it would

46

THE safe to brother.

"

BIBLE lachi

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. IX.
I myself, I you, ness wliat busipresence son-in-

bring me
has power, with

shore

the bar

the matter dispute I am as especially you, about to depart from Badajoz: I must shall bid you farewell, and we speedily I shall not
more see

Myself.

As for shall ride. gras you will journey upon the macho Myself. Before I answer
"

shall wish

you it is which in

to

inform

me

renders

your
; your
was

necessary the custom Antonio.

Castumba
me

each

other
"

no

more.

law, Paco, told

you know it be to
am
"

that it

no

longer

Antonio. what

Brother, do
hither ? I cannot

of the

to gypsies
an

wander.

rue brings
"

It is

affair of
not

Myself.
wish
me a

unless tell, I

brother, and
with horse relate

I shall

Egypt, acquaintyou

happy journey :

not

the gypsy enough to interpret of other people.

thoughts

it; peradventureit relates to a au lates or ass, or peradventureit reto

a

mule

or

macho

; it does

not

I advise to layawake, it Dosta about of affairs of and not to the inquire thinking Egypt ; you With when in the morning I took the I arose to offer, {enough). respect my free to decline it ; there is a bar lachi from my bosom, and scraping you are here swallowed of the it with a knife, some drungi'iije road) between (royal and you can dust in aguardiente, in the haand Madrilati, travel it in bit I am as of doing when the birdoche the I have made or with {stage-coach), up my dromale tell and I I said I but to am mind; {muleteers) myself, you, as ;

Antonio.

"

All last

nightI

therefore yourself,

"

wanted

on on

the
a

frontiers certain

of

Castumba
The

(Castile)
Madrilati

matter. to

the

that brother, drun, and

there
some

are

chories
are

of them

upon of the

strange Caloro is about

may into those of his

proceed to

Errate. few people in my situation Certainly have acceptedthe offer of this It was not, however, singulargypsy. would without fond of
means

; the journey is long,and he fall into evil hands, peradventure

own

blood

; for let

me

tell you, brother, the Cales are their towns and villages, and themselves

into troops
is
now now

to

leaving forming plunder the

is the
once

its allurements and adventure, of

for what

me more

; I

was

I'eady
hands of

gi'atifying my
There afraid
on

love of it than the

are

Busne, for there in the land, and

time
more so

but littlelaw
or

by puttingmyself under
such would but did
a

never

guide?
have been
no

many

who I

for what

the

Galore

to

become former

of this

treachery,
as point,

they were
of his

in

times ;

I had
not

fears

I said, the into the hands

strange Caloro
own

fall may blood and be

were

believe the
me

that

the

fellow intention he
was

boured harwards to-

ill slightest
;

ill-treatedby them, which

shame

saw was

that
one

fully
Errate,
and his

I will therefore go with him through the Chim del Manro {Estremadura)as far as the frontiers of Castumba, and upon leave
own

convinced and his hatred

that I for

of the
own

his affection for his the

race,
were

Busne,

the frontiers the way

of Castumba

I will find his is less

London
to

Caloro
than

to

for there Madrilati, I will then

I wished, strongest characteristics. hold of to lay moreover, every opportunity of making myself acquainted with and In the
an

danger in

Castumba

in the Chim betake call

me me

del Manro, and to the affairs of from hence.

"

of ways excellent my
"

Egypt
is
a

which

itself on
a

first I
"

Spanishgypsies, here presented into Spain. entrance

one

the

word, I determined
will for
to

to accompany

very of yours, my friend ; and in what manner do you propose tliatwe slialltravel ? Antonio. I will tell you, brother, I have a gras in tlie stall, the one even
"

Myself. This

hopefulplan

the gypsy. exclaimed. will

" "

go

with

As

despatchit
Do gras indeed !
"

my Madrid

you," I baggage, I doche." by the bir-

so,

brother," he replied,

and

the

will what if

which told

I you and

purchased
on a

at

as 01iven(;as,

gage, go lighter.Bagneed of baggage

the Busne
on

former
cost

occasion; it
me.

is
a

have road

good

and fleet,

who

am

you ? would

How

the

laugh

they saw

two

Cales

gypsy,

chule {dollars) fifty ; upon

that

48

THE
refresh entered

BIBLE
beast." down bread.

IN about

SPAIN.
me

[chap. IX.
there
me,

and We

ourselves,man
the
two

and
sat

;
at

stands there
'

the

donkey
the
at

and kitchen,

staring
Avhole

and

stand

squinting me gypsy with their filmy eyes. Where is the fellows in ill-looking who has sold this the kitchen, smoking cigars. I said me piece of scamp furniture is in I shout. He the ?' guage. lanAntonio Calo something to gone to
and

at the

for wine board,calling

were

canaille

There

'

Granada, valorous,' says

"

one.

'

He

is the him

What immense

is that I hear ?" said

was

one

of

gone

to

see

his the

kindred
'

among I

the
an

who fellows,

distinguished by
"

Moors,' says another.

justsaw
close

of mustaches. pair

What

running over
of
,

in the field, devil In

a

direction behind I
am

is that I hear ?
are

Is it in Calo that you before speaking me, and I a Chalan national? Accursed gypsy, posada and of
as

with
a

the third.
to

him,' says
tricked.
;
no a

word

and dare

how

I wish
one,

key of the dondispose

;

this you enter in that before me

speak
in I

however, will buy him

speech?
the

Is it not land ?

forbidden
which for
a

by
are,

the
even

law

we

it is forbidden

person offer avoids him. At last the gypsies for him and after much rials thirty ; I am chaffering
at

he is

Calo

donkey,and

every

gypsy

to enter

the from

mercado
hear

glad to get
It is all
to
a

rid of him

tell you what, word of Calo

if I friend,
come

another

two

dollars.

ever trick, how-

I will cudgel your bones with flyingover the house-tops of my foot." " You would
"

your mouth, and send you

a

; he returns

brotherhood

share

his master, and the the spoil amongst be the

but

kick

them,

all which in my

would villany were opinion, for what have such

an

vented, pre-

Calo
the the

do
be

said right,"
borne.

his

panion com-

language not

spoken ;

the insolence of these

to

is
at

no

longer
or

When go to

gj^psiesword of Calo could I am donkey to behave in

cado, mer-

induced

unaccount-

INIerida and

Badajoz I
a

the stand

able the

manner

?" satisfied perfectly this and conclusion, till their with

tinued con-

tliere in

corner

the each

Both

seemed

accursed other
not.

gypsies,jabbering to
a

of justness
to

in
'

speech
'

wliich

I understand I to
one

smoking
burnt twitched with their

Gypsy gentleman,' say

what
'

of them,

donkey ?'
Caballero it,
'

will you have for that I will have ten dollars for

stumps, when whiskers, looked

cigarswere they arose,

at
us

fierce

disdain, and
to

nacional,' says

it is the best like you That

donkey in
to
see

all

the gj'psy ; Spain.' ' I I. !' says its back,

tobacco-ends

the

dashing the ground, strode out

no

should
'

its

paces,' say

of the apartment. " Those people the said gypsies," bullies the two the Calo
"

seem

friends
"

to

shall, most

valorous

I to

Antonio, when
nor

the gypsy, and jumping upon he puts it to its paces, first of all pering whissomething into its ear in Calo,

had

departed,

to

and truly the paces of the

most
seen me
"'

donkey

are

wonderful, such
before.
'

as

I think

I have never it will just suit it I awliile,

and,

after

looldngat

and pay for it. ' I take out the money shall go to my house,' says the gj'psy ; ' I shall go to my and olf he runs. of the Cale's. Let us away, brother, or and I mount the those juntunes {sneaking scoundrels^ I, village,' donkey. say
*

languageeither." seize their nostrils," May evil glanders have been said Antonio they ; jonjabadoedby our people. HoAvever, brother, you did wrong to speak to me in Calo, in a posada like this ; it is a forbidden language; for,as I have often the law told you, the king has destroyed
"

Vamonos,' say I, but the donkey won't

I
on

move.

give him
better

switch,but
that.
'

I don't How is

set the may Towards

justicia upon U5." evening we drew

or
" "

near

to

get

the

for

this ?' say I,and I fall to spurring him. What The happens then, brother ? wizard feels the prick than no sooner he bucks

down,

and

me flings

over

his look

village. That is Methe as rida," said Antonio, formerly, the Coraof Busne a mighty city say, and hai. We shall stay here to-night, perhaps for a day or two, for I have largetown
some

head into the mire.

I get up and

buteiness of

Egypt

to transact

in

CHAP.

IX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
me

49 the
"

" this place. Now, brother,step aside Give "with the horse, and wait for me neath said the be-

solabarri of

(bridle),"
your

hag,

and

I will lead

yonder wall.
and

I must

go before

horse

in,my

chabo
to my

Egypt, yes, and

She

in what condition matters see stand." I dismounted from the horse,and sat beneath the ruined down stone a on
to

tether him I heard her

littlemanger."

led the horse

throughthe doorway,and busy in the darkness ; presently

:
"

the horse shook himself said terelamos," the

wall
me was

which
sim

Antonio
went

had and

motioned the air

hag,who

now

Grasli made

; the

down,

exceedinglykeen
me

around with

close ; I drew old tattered gypsy cloak he is not harmed by his day's journey; had which let us companion my vided now progo in, my Caloro, into my tigued, falittleroom." and, being somewhat me, fell into a doze which lasted for We entered the house, and found
an

her appearance with the bridle in her hand ; " the horse has shaken himself,

nearly an
"

hour.

ourselves have been

in

vast

room,

which

would

quitedark but for a faint loro?" said a glow which appeared at the farther end : it proceededfrom a brasero, beme. side I started and beheld the face of a which were two squatted dusky withstanding woman peeringunder my hat. Notfigures. the dusk, I could see that These are Callees," said the hag ; and the features were is and the other is hideously one ugly my daughter, black ; they belonged, in fact, her chabi ; sit down, almost loro, Camy London to a gypsy and let us hear you speak." crone, at least seventy years of age, leaning I looked about for a chair, but covdd upon a staff. Is your worship the London Casee none however, ; at a short distance, loro ?" repeated she. I perceived the end of a broken pillar I am he whom the floor ; this I rolled to the on you seek," said I ; lying
" " " " "

Is your

worship the London

Castrange voice close beside

where
"

is Antonio ?"

brasero, and
"

harihxtstres Curelando, cxirelando,

" ciirelos said the crone come : terela,"* with me, Caloro of my garlochin, come

upon it. fine house, mother of the said I to the hag, willing to g}^psies,"

sat down

This is

with

me

to

my

little ker,he
crone,

will

be

there anon." I followed the

who

led the

the desire she had expressed of gratify fine house isthis a me hearing speak; of yours, rather cold and damp, though; it appears largeenough to be a barrack
"

ruinous way into the town, which was half deserted ; we went and seemingly which she turned up the street, from into
a narrow

for hundunares."
"

of houses Plenty in
some

in this foros, plenty my

;

of houses

Merida,

London
ah !
a

loro, Cafine

and
"

dark

lane, and
of
a

opened the gate

house.
' '

presently pidated left largedilashe.

of them

justas they were

; I often wish

Come

in,"said

And the gras?" I demanded. Bring the gras in too, my chabo, bring the gras in too ; there is room
for the gras in my littlestable." We entered a large which we court, across till we proceeded
"

by the Corahanoes the Corahanoes are people their chim once in myself
"

more."

How Twice

is this, mother," said have

"

I,

"

have ?"

you
"

been in the land of the Moors

I been in their country,

came

to

wide of

way. door-

twice have I been in the my land of the Corahai ; the first time is
than the Sese
was
a

Caloro

Go

in, my
"

child

said the staWe."

""

hag ;

go

in,that
as

Egypt," more is my littlewith

said pitch," for what I will I
not

fifty years ago ; I Avas for my {Spaniards),

soldier of the
at

then band hus-

Crallis of

The
and
;

is as dark place
may be
a
a

I,

"

well

Spain,and Oran to Spain."

"

that time then

but

belonged,
the real

know

bring

or light,

You

were

not

with

enter."

Moors,"
business
"

said

I,

rsoing business, doing

much business
to do.

he has

Spaniardswho country."

only with the occupied part of their

"

50
'"

THE
I have
been

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
which
was

[chap.
very crabbed

IX.

with

the real Moors.

; and

Who knows Caloro. more my London of the real Moors than myself? About with my in ro fortyyears ago I was

Ceuta, for
and king, bread
turn

he

was

stilla soldier of the

me

he said to

one

day,
there

'

course,
and gave me they took away my dress, and I looked like a Coraother clothes, hani, and

days amidst
and
more

marched for many away we deserts and small villages, than

once

am

it seemed the

to

me

tired of this

place,where

is

no

that I

was

for their amongst the Errate, the

same: men

Corahano

and less water ; I will escape and ; this night I will kill of the

were ways hokkawar

would

with [dieat)
women we

mules

sergeant,and flee to the camp my ' Moor.' Do so,' said I, ' my

and
as soon
as

and many

the

told
came man

and asses, baji,and after before

a
'

chabo,
That

days

large
Go in

may
a

be

I will follow

town, and

the black

said,

you
same

and

become

Corahani.'

and there,little sister,

nighthe

killed his sergeant, who

five years before had called him Calo and cursed him, then rimning to the wall he many the Corahai in the Two
nor

there you will | find your ro ;' and I went to the gate, armed stood within and an Corahano tlie gate,and I looked in his face,and my
a ro.
"

dropped from it,and, amidst shots, he escapedto the land of

: as

lo ! it was 0 what I found

once

strange town
of

it was

that

for

I myself,
as

remained
a

myself in, full

been

people who
Corahai !

of Ceuta presidio wine and repani to selling years heard from

a

suttler,had
saw

Candore
and

(Christians),
Lalore'

the soldiers. but had I neither There

and renegaded
were

become

passedby, and
my
man was ro

Sese
men

guese), (Portu-

;
to

one

day
a

there from rahano, Co-

and

of other
were some

and nations,
of the Errate

came

strange
and

my
not

cachimani look like

a a

amongst them
own

he (wine-shop),
one,

dressed like
did like
was

he

yet he looked more

callardo callardo

were now my soldiers of the Crallis of the Corahai, in and followed him to his wars ; and

country; all

and yet he (black), either, though he and

as

not

that

town

remained

with

my

ro

was

almost

him to the wars, and I often asked him who had brought and about the black men ; ' that he had he said to me, and he told me Zincali ; chachipe ! me thither, and then he whisperedto me with them, and that he in queer had dealings which them I could scarcelyunto be of the Errate. derstand, believed language, I looked looked upon him, like tlie Errate something
'

black ; I thoughthe

going out with long time, occasionally

'

Your
'

ro

is

come waiting,

Well, brother, to be short,my

killed which and in the the
wars,

ro

was

with me, my
you land
unto

littlesister, and Where

I will take
'

before the
a

town

to

him.' he

is he ?

said

king

of

Corahai

laid

I, and

pointedto
;
come

of the the is

the west, to the Corahai, and said, ' He is with

me,
a

and siege,

yonder away
ro

littlesister,
moment

waiting.'For

of my afraid,but I bethought me husband, and I wished to be amongst

was

piuli(ividow), of the renegades, village and supported it was as called, myselfas well as I could ; and one day, I was as sitting weeping, the black
I returned to the

I became

since the I had never whom seen man, the Corahai ; so I took the littleparne' day he brought me to my ro, again ' 1 had, and, lockingup the cachimani, stood before (moneif) me, and he said, Come with me, the come strange man ; with me, littlesister, and with him, hand I is went at the at ro ;' challenged gate, desert but I gave him repani in and and the the he was (brand beyond gate t/), let us pass ; in a moment and of black in the same men women Ave were partjwent

with

the

the

sentinel

us

the land of the Corahai. from the toAvn,beneath four black saluted That
was
men people,

About
a

league
found

whicli I had my from ro?'

seen
'

before. Here

'

Where

is

hill, we

said L

and

women,

like

the and

ourselves joined
me

strange man, with them, and they all

called
me

all very and we

said the black this

day

am

ter,' littlesishe is, ' here is ; he man, the ro and you the

little sister. of their dis-

romi ; come, let us to be done.'

"

ness go, for there is busi-

all 1 understood

And

I went

with

him, and

he

was

CHAP.

IX.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

51

might be so, and that theywere not but theycould giveno accomit Corahai,
of themselves.
"

my ro, and we lived amongst the deserts,Caloro," said the Gypsy mother, in an hokkawav'd and choried and told * unearthly tone; " Pepindorio has baji this is good, been here some ; and I said to myself, time." I am sure the Errate in a I was amongst about to rise from my seat and better chim than my own ; and I often attemptto escape from the house, when said that theywere of the Errate, and I felt a hand laid upon shoulder, my then theywould laugh and say that it and in a moment I heard the voice of
and

Antonio.
Be not will have a
"

'tis I, brother afraid,

; we

the

Well, things went on in this way for years, and I had three chai by the black man but the ; two of them died, youngest, who is the Calli who sits by
was brasero,

light anon,
was

and

then supper."

The

supper
of

rude

sisting enough,con-

bread, cheese, and

olives.

spared;
once

Antonio,however, produceda leathern

bottle of excellent wine ; we of by the light
was

so

we

roamed

about
came

and
to
our

choried and told

pass that

time wide
are

and it these viands in the winter lamp which

" "

baji ;

despatched
an

earthen
the floor.

and

many the boat the current, and

to pass a attempted deep river,of which there in the Chim del Corahai, and with the rapidity overset of

placed upon

company

NoAv,"said Antonio to the youngest female, bring me the pajandi, and I

will with and

The

all

our

drowned, all but myself and

no

people were my chabi,

w^hom I bore in my bosom, I had now friends amongst the Corahai, and I wandered about the despoblados howling
and till I lamenting

singa gachapla." girl broughtthe guitar, which, some the Gypsy tuned, difficulty, then strumming it he vigorously,
:
"

sang
"

became

half
"

lili{mad), and in this

manner

to the coast, where my way friends with the captain of a

I found I made

I stole a plump and bonny fowl, But ere I well had din'd, The master with scowl and growl, came And me would captive bind.

My

returned
now

to this land
am

of

here, I often

and ship, Spain. And wish myself

mantle off I threw scour'd across the lea, Then cried tlie bengf with loud Where does tlie Gypsy flee ?" And

hat and

halloo.

the Corahai." Here she commenced laughingloud and long, and when she had ceased, her and grandchild took daughter up

back

againamongst

and singing playing for considerable time, the two younger females dancing in the meanwhile with
a

He continued

unwearied mother
or

the

whilst diligence,

the

aged

laugh,which

that I concluded
Hour
sat

they continued so long all lunatics. they were

hour,
the and still
we

occasionally snappedher fingers exclaiming

"

succeeded

beat time on the ground with her At last Antonio laid suddenly down the instrument, : stick.
"

over crouching from brasero, to-morrow enough,enough, of"we theremore which, by this time, all warmth had will now to the charipe (bed)." the departed had glow ; appeared, longsince disWith all said I ; where my heart," and only a few dying sparks are we to ? sleep were to be distinguished. The room
" " "

see

the London

Caloro is weary ;

or

hall

"

was

now

manger ; the women be, we still I shivered and ; easy. began to feel unbufa." "Will Antonio be here tonight ?" at length I demanded.
"

involved in utter darkness were motionless and

In

the

said he, stable,"

warm

"

in the in the

; however

cold the stable may

shall be

enough
for Antonio.

No

tongalisted cuidao, my

The

London

Gypsy

word

f Devil.

E'J

52

CHAPTER

X. Alguazil-The Assault-SpeedyTrot
Bivouac-Mount
the and

The

Marriage-The Gypsy's Granddaughter-Proposed

Arrival
at

iationallThe Balmerson-Axnong i;fa;:rjo-The

Cavalier
What is Truth

and Trujillo-Kight

Kain-The

Forest-The

Away!course" Dis-

Thickets-Serious

?-Unexpected Intelhgence.
the

remained three days at the Gypsies early every house, Antonio departing and returnmg his mule, on morning, was house large late at nisht. The of habitable part the only and ruinous, of the stable, the exception with
We

Gypsy
the
was

mother
town

in the

hall,the

two

Callees
about which
"

were

absent their

fortunes telling

and neighbourhood, occupation. principal Came.

it,

London you married, my to said the old woman loro?"

Are
"

beingthe hall,where we had supped, at and there the Gypsy females slept m mats and mattresses some on night,
a comer.
"

Are

you

ro

"

do you 3/^se//:_Wherefore

ask,O

strange house
one

Antonio,
of point
as

is this, said 1 to morning as he was on the mule

Dai de los Cales ? Mother." It is high time that Giipsij taken from the lacha of the chabi were You can ro. had a her, and that she
no

his saddling I
"

and
and

depart- do ing,
strange

better than take her for

romi,my
.

on supposed, a

the

affairs of

London

Caloro.
am a

Egypt ; has people; that Gypsy grandmother

all the
"

strange house
a

MuseJf."l
land, d
much

stranger
to

mother
less for

of the
a

this Gypsies,and
m

appearance of
the

sowanee

know scarcely ceress)." {sorsaid

how

for provide

self, myone

romi.

All

appearance of

one

one Antonio ; " and is she not really crabbed things and more She knows hokkawar, tell She can twixt and her ro. Errate bethe all crabbed words than to few equal her baii,and there are and Catalonia. She has here she once Were a pastesas. at stealing and can been amongst the wild Moors,

Gypsy Mother." She wants no London Caloro, for her, my to provide for herself time provide at any she can

makp than kind

my

where and philtresat Madrilati, more'drows, poisons,

one

made a alive. She once to me and persuaded of paste, done had so I after taste, and shortly
any

they tell me you sure treamuch make would she are going, take her thither,for in therefore ; as it were, this foros she is nahi (lost),
for there is nothingto be in the foros barolt would

departedfrom my wandered through horrid

soul

body, and

gained ; but

moimtains, amidst

monsters

forests and and duen-

des, during
learned many
hai which
"

entire night. She one things amidst the Cora-

be another in lachipi dressed matter go whilst you and gold), and sonacai (silk

would ; she
ride about

would

on

your
had

black-tailed
sure, trea-

you long acquainted and all the Errate of like a Crallts, to I said ?"' appear her you with ; _" should bow down del Manro the Chim in this house." at home be quite What " say you, tonio. their heads to you. said An" with her ! Acquainted what you to London say Caloro, " brother marry my Did not mj own who bore my plan? her daughter, the black Calli, Your plan is a plausible Ml/self." himthechabi, sixteen years ago, just people least some at or mother, ? Busne' one, hanged by the before he was I am, as you are but think so would ; with seated In the afternoon I was Have
_

I should be been you

gladto

know."

when gi-a ; and

you

got much

miffht* return

hither and live

"

THE
aware, of another

BIBLE

IN
and

SPAIN.
one or

53
two

chim,

inclination to pass my

and have no life in this country.

return to

in which

she had
me,
was

informed

Gypsy Mother.
own cross

"

Then

your
can

There

poisoningadventures, been engaged,as she in her earlyyouth. occasionally something

once

comatry, my
the

the Caloro,

chabi
not

very

wild
;
more

in her than

pani.

Would

she

do

demeagestures and nour I observed her,

to declamation,

!business

vacancy, and thrust her palms as if endeavouring out to accompany you ; I and my invisible substance daughter,push away some ; the mother of the chabi. she goggledfrightfully with her eyes, And what should we do in and once 3IyseJf. sank back in convulsions, of land of the Corahai ? lithe It is a poor which her children took no farther notice and wild country, I believe. than observing that she was only and would Gypsy Mother. The London Caloro lili, soon come to herself. asks me what we could do in the land Late in the afternoon of the third of the Corahai ! Aromali ! I almost and myselfsat day,as the three women think that I am to a lilipendi speaking usual the as conversing over

in London witli the rest of the Galore ? Or why not go to the land of the Corahai ? In which I would case

in the midst

of much

stop

stare in short,

"

"

brasero, a
old

there not horses to chore? Yes, I trow there are, and better ones than in this land, and asses and mules. In the hnd of the Corahai hokkawar and chore even you must as
you
or

(simpleton).Are

fellow shabby-looking
cloak walked

in
room

an
:

rustjcame

into the

he

must

here,or
are
no

in your

own

else you who

not

Caloro. with the black peojoinyourselves ple

live in the

straight where we were up to the place a sitting, produced paper cigar, which he lighted and taking at a coal, a whiff country, or two, looked at me: "Carracho," Can you said he, who is this companion?"
"

saw

at

once

that the fellow

was

no

? despoblados said nothing, Yes, Gj-psy : the women but I could hear the grandmother sui-ely ; and gladtheywould be to have growling to herself, among them the Errate from Spainand somethingafter the manner London. I am when seventy years of age, of an old grimalkin disturbed. but I wish not to die in this chim, but "Carracho," reiterated the fellow, far away, where both how came yonder, roms this companion here ?" my are fore, No le penela sleeping.Take the chabi, therechi min chahoro," said
" "

the the black Callee to me, go to Madrilati to win in an under * parne, and when you have got it, return, tone ; " sin iin halicho de las chineles;" and we will give a banquetto all the then looking the to she up interrogator Busne in Merida, and in their food I said aloud, " he is of our one people will mix drow, and they shall eat and from Portugal, the on come

and

burst like
And when

poisoned sheep they have eaten

....

smuggling
some

and lay,
we

to

see

his poor sistershere."

will

"

Then

let him

give me

bacco," to-

leave them, and away to the land of the Moor, my London Caloro.

said the fellow," I suppose he has broughtsome with him."

" time that I reHe has no tobacco,"said the black mained I stirred not once Callee, " he has nothing but old iron. from the house; following the advice This cigaris the only tobacco there is of Antonio, who informed me that it in the house smoke it,and go ; take it, would not be convenient. My time lay away !" rather heavily on hands, my only my Thereupon she produced from a cigar of amusement source in the out her shoe, which consisting she presented to conversation of the women, and in that the algaiazil. of Antonio when " he made his appearThis will not said the ance

During

the

whole

at

Merida

at

night.
and

In these the of

grandmother was
wonderful
tales

do," fellow, takingthe cigar, I must have something it is now three months principal spokeswoman, better;
tertulias the
"

astonished the

with ears my land of the

* an

"

Moors, prisonescapes,

thievish feats, of

Say nothing to him,

alfjuazil."

my

lad,he

is

hog

54

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.
baributre, baribu
farther

since I received
the

any thing from you ; last present was handkerchief, a which for was nothing good ; therefore hand
or me over

Busnees,
r plenty)

{plenty,

Nothing

somethingworth

taking,

in the

I will carry " The Busno

said the black " The Chinel will take

day,Antonio you all to the Carcel." will take us to prison," the saddle ; we travelled at least thirteen Callee, " ha ! ha ! ha !" leaguesbefore we reached the Venta,
us

of any account curred ochouse the next Gypsy ; and myselfwere againin

to

giggled
he !"
"""

the

young

girl, "he!

prison," where we passed the night; we rose in the morning,my guideinforming he! early that we had a longday's me journey
"

the

Bengui will carry us all to to make. the Gypsy grandmother, I demanded. grunted estaripel,"
The
"

Where
"

are

we

bound

to ?"
plied. re-

To

he Trujillo," which

ho ! ho ! ho I"
arose

The

three females

and

walked

When

the

sun

arose,

it did

slowly round the his face; he apwe on pearedclouds, eyes steadfastly wished and evidently frightened, to getaway. Suddenlythe two youngest lay on our
seized
to

fellow,fixingtheir

gloomilyand
of
a

amidst

found

om-selves

rainthreatening in the neighbourhood which formed in-

range
were

of mountains called

and which, Antonio left,

his hands, and whilst he struggled the old woman release himself,
:
'

me,

the Sierra of

exclaimed
come

you the Callees and of their

none
we a su

to

our route, however, lay clothed with wide plains, over tobacco, hijo scantily and brushwood, with here there a melancholy the Gypsy house to frighten

San

Selvan;

You

want

"

the strange Caloro

"

out

have hijo, we plako truly, and rightsorry I am; have, however, plentyof the dust for you, servicio." hand into handful her of low's fel-

her Here, thrusting

pocket,she
some

dischargeda
or

kind

of dust

snuff into the

with its old and dilapidated village, church. Throughout the greater rain was part of the day, a drizzling which turned the dust of the falling, and mire, considerably roads into mud ing impedingour progress. Towards evenwild place reached a we a moor, stones enough, strewn with enormous and rocks.
rose a

was

eyes ; he stamped and time held fast for some and

roared,but by the two

Before

us, at

some

distance,
be neither
blage assem-

rough and strange conical hill, appearedto

an nor

Callees ; he
which
two

howextricated himself, ever, unsheath knife a to attempted bore like

at

shaggy,which
more

less than
same moor. a

immense of rocks The

he him

his

younger

females

girdle ; but the themselves flung

the old

of the

kind

which
now-

lay upon

the

rain had

upon
woman

while fiiries,

ing increased his disorder by thrust-

soon her stick into his face ; he was and the treated, reto contest, give up glad him his and mule hat behind leaving

rose and strong wind howled at our backs. Throughout tho able considerjourney,I had experienced

ceased, but

in keeping up difficulty of Antonio

; the walk

with

the

of the horse discover the within about

no

cloak, which
"

the chabi

flungafter him
This
of the is
a

gathered up and into the street. bad business," said I,

course

was

slow, and
the
me

could
lui'ked

of vestige had We
were

which spirit upon

"

Gypsy
him.

assured
now

"the
rest

fellow

will of

bring the

clear tolerably
to

all be cast
"

Ca !"
us

justicia spot of the moor upon us, and we shall I said, whether into the estaripel." which said the black Callee,biting the quality
" "

am

see,"

this horse you have

has any of described." far the

her
to

thumb-nail,
to

he

has

more

reason

"

Do

his so," said Antonio, and spurred

fear

him

the

than we him, we filimicha ; we in this

could

bring
over, more-

have,

me beast onward, speedily leaving behind. I jerked the horse with

his dormant to arouse endeavouring plenty, bit, he reared, spirit, stopped, whereupon plenty." Hold the and refused to the mumbled proceed. Yes," grandmother, have friends, bridle loose, and touch him with your; of the baji the daughters from before. 1 \ the Iwhip,"shouted Antonio Caloro, friends among my London friends

town,

"

"

"

56

THE he
see

BIBLE
At first I

IN
with

SPAIN.
her
"

did

as

commanded

me.

hand

could

farther
at
some

but, moving a little nothing, I saw a plainly on, largelight distance,seeminglj^ amongst
"

he is mailla
to

tion direcin a particular prisoneryonder for chora {stealing donkey) ; we

mg
are

come

see

what
can

we we

can

do in his is

the trees.
or

Yonder
"

cannot
more

be

lamp

behalf; and
than in this
to pay root

where ?

lodgebetter
there
thing no-

candle," said I
of
a

; "it is

like the

where forest, It is not

blaze

fire."
"

Very
are

said likely,"

the first time,

at slept

Antonio. fire made

There

in this {houses)
a

no queres it is doubtless j\lace ;

I trow, that Galore' have of a tree." One of XhQ

our now striplings

the

by

durotuues

{shepherds) ;

gave

us

let

us them, for, as go and join you say, it is doleful work wandering about at

barleyfor
into which

nightamidst
We
now
saw

rain and and

mire." entered what I

dismounted
was
a

a lai'ge bag, introduced successively famished their heads, allowing the till we themselves to regale creatures
we

animals

in

mals forest,leadingthe anicautiously amongst the trees and In about small open five minutes
we a

conceived

that There the

they
was

had
a

satisfiedtheir

hunger.
at

puchero

mering sim-

brushwood. reached

half-full fire, other into

a

of bacon,

side of which,

ther space, at the farat the foot of a

was

and garbanzos, was emptied

this provisions; large wooden

and and out of this Antonio burning, platter, fused three two or myself supped; the other Gypsies restand to underto join us, giving us our approach, before our and one of them now exclaimed eaten that they had Quien Vive ? that voice," said An"I know tonio, arrival ; they all, however, did justice to the leathern bottle of Antonio,wliich, and, leavingthe horse with me, from advanced towards fire before the his departure Merida, he : rapidly sently preI heard Ola ! and a laugh, had the precaution to fill. an I was and the voice of Antonio come oversoon moned sumby this time completely and sleep. Antonio with fatigue On reaching me to advance. of immense dark the fire I found an two horse-cloth, lads, and a flung me beneath than which stilldarker woman of about forty he bore one the more ; what latter seated on appeared to be the huge cushion on which he rode ; in and placing this I wrapped myself, furniture. horse or I likewise mule my an4 and tethered head two a a horse saw bundle, donkeys my feet as upon I lay down. It was, in trees. to the fire, near as to the neighbouring possible other Antonio and the Come mained a Gypsy bivouac Gypsies refact, seated by the fire conversing. forward, brother, and show yourself," said Antonio I listened for a moment to what to me they ; you are amongst understand but I did not perfectly friends;these are of the Errate, the said, I expected to find it,and what I did understand by no very people whom the rain still interested me; in whose house and means at Trujillo, we

large cork-tree, a fire and by it stood or sat heard figures ; they had

"

"

should have
"

slept."
"

but drizzled, could have duced insoon

I heeded

it not, and

was

And and

what," said I,
come

asleep.
The
sun was

them the midst ?" night

"'

to leave their house

in Trujillo in forest, pass the I

just appearing as
several the

into this dark and

awoke. could
were

I made rise with and

a

efforts before

of wind

rain,to
of

from

ground ;
hair rain could

my
was

limbs
come on

and stiff, quite

They
that

business is

Egypt,
ours,

covered ceased I neither animals looked

rime;
rather
me,
nor

my for the but

had

brother, doubtless,"repliedAntonio;
"

severe

frost set in.

see

and

business
we

none

of have

around Antonio of the

so

Calla boca !
them
"

It is luckywe
our

found had
no

the

Gypsies; the
likewise which appeared, disI had

here, else
and

should have
no

latter had the horse

supper,

horses

corn." the

had

at My ro is prisoner the said woman, yonder,"

village hitherto rode; the mule, however, ci fastened to the pointing Antonio still remamed
,

CHAP.

X.l

THE

BIBLE

IN
On wild

SPAIN.
the other side of
a

57

tree ;
some

This latter circumstance

which apprehensions
to
on

gone

arise in my mind. business some

"

quieted ning beginThey are of Egj'pt,"I

were
"

shall We the

there is a Jaraicejo where desert, despoblado, we find nothing." crossed the valley, and ascended
as we

said to myself, the embers I gatheredtogether

and heaping upon fire, them

and

will return

anon." of the

hill,and

drew
"

near

to

the

Gypsy said, Brother,we had through that town singly. I forth will go in advance and branches, soon succeeded in calling ; follow slowly, when the there purchasebread and barley I againplaced a blaze, beside which ; have of the fear. I will await to nothing puchero, with what remained you of last night. I waited for a pro\dsion you on the despoblado." Without he of the considerable time in expectation waitingfor my answer hastened and but of my return as was out forward, they speedily companions, and breakof sight. did not appear, I sat down fasted. I followed Before I had well finished I tered slowly behind, and enthe gate of the town old pidated dilaheard the noise of a horse approaching ; an made and Antonio place,consistmgof little more rapidly, presently than one his appearance street. Along this street I amongst the trees, with with He in his countenance. a man was a some advancing,when agitation his head, and from the horse, and instantlydirty foraging cap on sprang ning runINIount, holdinga gun in his hand, came proceededto untie the mule. Who ? said me to are : to brother,mount 1" said he. pointing up you with the Cailee the horse; "I went he, in rather rough accents ; from whence do you come ? and her chabes where to the Tillage and From I rethe ro is in trouble ; the chinobaro, plied Badajoz Trujillo," do ask ? seized them with at however, once why you ; of the national guard," I am their cattle, and would have laid hands one and am said the man, also on but I set spurs to the placed here to me; I told that a him and the am was inspectstrangers ; bridle, grasti, gave rode fellow far away. soon Gypsy through Mount, brother, just now mount,
sticks and
" "
"

town, the best pass

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

or

we

shall have
us

the whole
a

rustic

naille ca-

the town

; it is well

for him Do

that I had

upon I did as

in

twinkling."
:

into stepped
were

my
a

house. ?
"

you
"

come

he

commanded

we
we

in his company
"

in the road presently left the night before.

which

had
to

Do

I look

Along this we

keep company

said I, likely person," with Gypsies?

"

from me at a great Fate, the horse displaying The national measured top full in the to toe, and then looked me his best speedy trot ; whilst the which seemed mule, with its ears pricked up, galloped face with an expression " " In his side. What to is fact, at likelyenough." my gallantly place say, calculated that on the hill yonder?" said I to was by no means appearance

hurried

favour. of an at the expiration Antonio, hour, to prepossess people in my Andaluold head I wore an we as a prepared to descend deep Upon my sian hat,which, from its condition, peared apvalley. That is Jaraicejo," said Antonio ; to have been trodden under foot ; served bad place it is,and a bad placeit a rusty cloak, which had perhaps a half a dozen has ever been for the Calo people." enwrapped generations, If it is such a bad place," said I, my body. My nether garments were of the finest description shall not I hope we have to pass ; by no means could were vered coand be far seen it." as as through face We with mud, with which must my pass through it,"said likewise bespattered, than Antonio, for more reasons was plentifully : one beard of a chin was a forasmuch as the road lies through and upon first, my it week's gi-owth. as Jaraicejo ; and, second,forasmuch ? at Icngtli will be Have you a passport necessary to purchase provisions
" " "

*'

"

"

"

"

there, both

for

ourselves

and

horses.

demanded

the national.

58 I remembered best way treat him therefore

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[CHAP.

X.

Myself. Be under no apprehension, having read that the Seiior nacional; the war will be put heart is to to win a Spaniard's You have heard of with ceremonious I down, don't doubt. civility. which the English legion, Lord off my dismounted,and taking my
"

hat,made
must

low bow
"

to

the constitutional

Palmerston
matter

has sent their

over

? and

Leave you

the will

soldier,saying,
know

Senor

nacional,you

in

hands,

my
on

the result. see that I am an English gentleman,soon that this National. It appears to me in this country for travelling Balmerson be Caballero must a I bear a which, passport, very pleasure ; honest will find be man. to inspecting, fectly peryou Myself. There can be no doubt of given me by the regular ; it was
" "

great
heard
see

Lord

Palmerston,
of

minister
course

of will

England,
his

whom you of here ; at the

own

have

it. National.
a

"

I have

heard be

that he doubt

is
of

bottom

you

great general.

and have

handwriting;look rejoice; perhaps you will another opportunity.As

confidence hands whilst I leave gentleman, I the

at
never

it
nor

Myself. There
"

can

no

it.

In

some

thingsneither
* a

Napoleon
a

unbounded every in your

I put in the honour of

the sawyer with him for

would
moment.

stand

chance mucho

Es

passport

repairto the refresh to posada myself. When you have it, inspected you will perhaps far as to bring it to me. me so oblige
Cavalier,I
which and kiss your hands." him I then made another he returned with
now one

hombre. National.
Does

"

am

glad
the

to

hear

it.

he intend

to head

self? himlegion
he has
a

Myself. I
"

believe not; but

head the

sent

over,

to

fighting men,
to

bow, stilllower,

low

friend

of
as

his, who
much himself.
"

is thought
versed in

be

nearly
matters

military
hear be

leaving him
now a a

staringat the

as

passport and
into directed by
went

I at myself, looking which I to was posada, I met. beggar whom and horse, procured some the

National.
I
see

am

to rejoiced

it.

that and

the

war

will you
me.

soon

over.

I Caballero, have

thank

for your I

ness, politewhich

I fed the bread fine and

me

for the afforded

information

barley,as
; I likewise

Gypsy

had

directed

purchased three
was was

you will have

of a fowler, who partridges wine in the posada. He drinking satisfied with offered which
sat to

the

treat

price I gave with a me

no

him,

and

made

to copita, As we objection.

hope you fess journey. I conpleasant that I am to see a surprised tleman genof country travelling your alone, and in this manner, through roads are The such regions these. as
a

at

the national discoursing the table, entered with the passport in his hand,
at

been
two

present very bad ; there have of late thar accidents,and more many
deaths evil in this The neighbourhood. has a yonder larly particube on guard, your sorry that Gypsy was

and

sat down
"

by

us.

despobladoout quite in
made doubt form you ; I

National.
your

Caballero ! I return
to

passport, it is
have
; I have

Caballero.

name; I am

rejoicemuch
can

giveme
"

some

the present war. I shall be MtjseJf. aiford

so

quaintance permittedto pass ; should you meet your achim and not like his looks, shoot liim that no you ride him down. at information respectonce, stab him, or ing He is a well-known contrabanthief,

and polite What

very happy to honourable a tleman genin my power. is

and murderer, dista,

more on we

and has committed assassinations than he has fingers if you please, Caballero,

any

information
"

his hands. will allow

National.
"

England doing,

is she about

to atford

to

this

country?
down

any assistance If she pleasedshe

war

you a guard to the other You do not wish it ? side of the pass. before I farewell. Then, Stay, go I
*

could months.

put

the

in

three

El

Serrador, a Carlist partisan,who

much talked of in Spain.

about

this

period was

CHAP.

X.]
see once

THE
more

BIBLE the

IN

SPAIN.

forward It is on business nor return. nature sigof Egypt, brother, that I am here." which As he invariably used this last exhini the signature, I showed pression with profound reverwhen he looked upon he wished to evade my ence, for a moI held my peace, and said no ment Ye ring his head unco inquiries, and embraced then the animals were we more parted, fed, and we ; ; I mounted the horse and rode from make to a proceeded frugal repast on first proceeding very the bread and wine. at town, however, sooner, slowly; I had no Why do you not cook the game reached the moor, than I put the animal which I brought ?" I demanded in ; to his speedytrot, and proceeded at a this place there is plentyof materials

should wish to

of the Caballero

Balmerson.

"

"

tremendous

rate for moment

some

time,expecting
overtake the
saw

for
"

fire." The smoke

every

to

might discover
"

ther," us, bro-

Gypsy.
him,
nor

I, however,

did I meet with a being. The road along which

narrow

nothing of man singlehuI

said Antonio.
of

lying escondido
It
was now

desirous in this place until

am

the arrival of the

messenger."

sped was

considerably past noon ; and wood, brushamidst thickets of broom the Gypsy lay behind the thicket,raising with which the despobladowas himself up occasionally and looking in and which towards the which hill some places anxiously lay overgrown, head. Across man's w ith a mation exclaas us were over an high as against ; at last, in the direction in which I the moor, of disappointment and impatience, himself he the ground, a rose on was proceeding, loftyeminence, flung extended naked and bare. The where he lay a considerable time, apmoor parently had for at least three leagues I nearly ruminating ; ; at last he lifted
and crossed it, I ascent. was reached the foot of the up his head
"

and

sandy,winding

and looked

me

in the face.

becoming very uneasy, imagine that I might have to this concei\dng passed when the Gypsy amongst the thickets, country. Ola ! T suddenlyheard his well-known which "Verha-ps the same Mi/self. and his black savage head and staring brmgs you to this moor business of Egypt. eyes suddenlyappeared from amidst a Antonio. Not so, brother ; you speak clump of broom. have tarried long, You but brother," the language of Egypt, it is ti'ue, had said he ; "I almost thought you neither those are your ways and words of the Gales nor of the Busne. playedme false." He bade me Did you not hear me dismount, and then proMijseJf. speak ceeded behind the in the foros about God and Tebleque? to lead the horse where I found the mule thicket, pic- It was to declare his gloryto the Gales to the land of quetedto the ground. I gave him the and Gentiles that I came and then probarley and provisions, ceeded Spain.
" "

Antonio. Brother, I cannot what business brought you

"

"

to relate to

him him

my

adventure the
''

Antonio.
errand ?
"

"

And

who would

sent

you

on

this

with the national.

*'

I woixld I had had

here,"said

You Mi]self. stand

me

imderscarcely

Gypsy, on
the former would chulee
"

which hearing the epithets lavished him upon him. here,then should become better I my

I had and

I to inform you. Know, however, that there are many in foreign lament which lands who the darkness
were

his carlo

quainted." ac-

envelopes Spain, and the and murder cruelty, robbery,

it.

scenes

of
form de?

which

And I

what

are

demanded,

you doing here yourself," " in this wild place, down and till
iio

Antonio.
"

"

Are Busne

theyGalore
matters
are sons

or

Busne Both
same

amidst these thickets ?"

"

What Ml/self. I Galore and

"

it?

yon
that

a expecting messenger said the Gypsy ; pass,"

am

of the

IGod.
1
Anfnm'n.
"

mf"=ppnDrer

arrive

can

neither

Yon

lie. brothpr.

they arc

60

THE of
one

BIBLE
Errate.

IN
were

SPAIN.
not

not

father of There

nor

of
too

one

long,however, in makuig their

at the

You

speak

and robbery,cruelty,
are

appearance
hundred

distance The of
a

of about
was

a a

murder.

many brother ; if there were there Busne no would be neither robberynor murder. The Galore neither rob nor murder each cruel them.

Busne,

yards.

donkey

beautiful creature
came

silver grey, and frisking swinging her tail, along, her feet
so

and

moving

quickthat they

seemed the ground. to touch other,the Busne do ; nor are they scarcely The animal no sooner their law forbids to their animals, us than perceived she stopped short,turned child I was When I was a round, and but my father
to stopped attempted
come

a burra, beating

escape

by

the way

she had

" Hurt not chided me. my " the animal," said he ; for within it is the soul of your own sister!" And do MijseJf. you believe in this wild doctrine,O Antonio ?

hand,

and

; her

rider, however, detained her,

"

whereupon the donkey kicked violently, and would mer, probablyhave flungthe forhad she not sprung nimbly to the
ground.
man's The form of the
woman was

Antonio. I do believe live ! in

"

Sometimes
not.

I
are
even

do,
some

times some-

concealed by the large entirely wrapping she wore. cloak which I ran to assisther,when she turned her face full
me,

There
; not

who

nothing Long since,I

was
"

that
an

they
of

knew I

old Caheard
we saw no

loro,he
a

old,very old,upwards
and
once

upon the whom

and had

instantly recognized
features
at

sharp
I

clever

of

Antonia,
thing no-

hundred

him
was
men no

years, say, that all we a lie ; that there

nor

seen

Badajoz, the
her in He All !"

thought
was no

daughter of my
to me,

world,
nor are

but

women,

no

horses what
"

mules,
we

olive-trees.

But

wliither

addressed father, which a low voice,

started

guide. She said advancing to something to him

I did not hear.
"

strapng ?

I asked

induced

you

back, and

vociferated

" to come to this country Yes," said she in a louder tone, probably you tell me, the words which I had the gloryof God and Tebleque. Disparate! repeating

tell that to have

the

Busne'.

You

not

good reasons
would
are a

for

coming,no doubt,

The like

caughtbefore, All Gypsy remained

"

are

captured,"
some

for

time

Some one astounded,and, unwillingto not be here. say which I imaspy of the Londone, perhaps listen to their discourse, of business relate to ginedmight Egypt, you are ; I care not. Rise,brother, and I walked amidst the thickets. I tell me whether any one is coming down away for some absent the pass. was time, but could else you you
"

j
|

see
a

distant

hear passionate I replied expressions object," ; occasionally and oaths.

;

"

like The

speckon the side of the Mil." Gypsy started up, and we both
eyes
so on

In about had behind animals

half the

an

hour

turned re-

they

left the

road, but I

fixed
with

our

the

: object

the
at

tance found disfirst

them the

broom Both

clump,
were

was

great that it was

we

where

stood.

seated on the ground ; the features of distinguish the dark and whether it moved A quarter or not. Gypsy were peculiarly his held in unsheathed knife he of an hour, however, dispelledall grim ; his which he would for this time ithad nearly hand, doubts, within occasionally reached the bottom of the hill, and we plunge into the earth, exclaiming, All ! All !" could descry seated on an animal a figure that difficulty could
"

of
"

some
"

kind.
a

"

Brother," said he
no

at

last,

"

can

It is Then

woman,"
on a grey it is my for it can

said

I, at length, go

farther with carried

me

you
to

; the

business
is settled

mounted
" "

donkey." messenger,"said
be the
no

which and
"

Castumba

Antonio,
The
now were

other."

now by yourself ; you must trust to your baji(fortune)."

travel

woman

and from

donkey
for
some

were

upon the concealed

and plain,
us

time

" who I trust in Undevel," I replied, hovi' fortune But wrote long ago. my

by

the copse and

am

I to

journey ?

I have

no

horse,for

brushwood

which

intervened.

They

you doubtless want

your own."

CHAP.

X.] Gypsy
the
"

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

61

The
want

appeared
it is the

to

reflect

"

horse,

true,
macho

brother,"
;

said,
shall
shall which upon
"

and
not

likewise go
en

but

pindre

(on

foot)

lent
he
can

legs.
manage

You

are

Calo, brother,
shall

and

her;
savage

you

therefore

you

; you

purchase daughter
you Talavera

the

burra,
a

giving gold.
beast

my

Antonia

baria
sell for

of the

If
at

of burra purchase the her when I presented this expedition." I replied, The burra," savage and

Antonia,
I sent her

think

fit,you
or

can

Madrid,

Estremenian in Cas-

bestis
"

are

highly
than
of
an

considered

appears

tumba." In less side hour

both
"

vicious."

was

on on

the the

She

is I

both,

brother, her;
a

and

on

that and excel-

other savage

the

pass,

mounted

account

bought
has

savage

burra.

vicious

beast

generally

four

6i^

CHAPTER
The
Pass of

XL
Subtlety" Death
The Traveller
"

Mirabete"
solved" The

Wolves

and

Shepherds" Female
Tlie Dark
"

by

Wolves"

Tlie
Abar-

Mystery
beuel
"

Mountains"
"

Hour

"

of tlie

Night

"

Hoarded

Treasure

Force of Gold

The

Archbishop

Arrival

at Madrid.

PROCEEDED

down

tlie pass of Mirathe

Estremadura

bete, occasionally ruminating on

matter

soldier, just returned

the
seven a

and

which had broughtme to Spain, and a for occasionally admiring one of the charity
; before

is celebrated ; a broken from the wars ; beggar,who, after demanding wounds

seat

of Maria
us, and

finest prospects in the world outstretched me lay immense boimded which the between I in the distance whilst
was

Santissima,took
himself
was an

amidst

plains,made
tains, moun-

comfoi-table. quite active in

The

by huge

hostess

at
now
a

the

foot of

the hill

and busied which I had

herself

bustling woman, cookingmy supper,

which

Tagus, purchased at Jaraicejo,and wiiicli. on loftybanks ; the whole was taking leave of the my gilded by the rays of the settmg sun ; Gypsy, he had counselled me to take for the day,though cold and wintry, with me. In the mean time, I sat by the fire listening was to the conversation of bright and clear. In about an hour I reached the river at a place the company.
where
once

in

descending rolled stream, deep narrow

consisted of the game

stood the
been
a

remains been and river blown

never

of what

had

"

I would

were
"

magnificent bridge,which
war

of the

shepherds ;

wolf," said one or, indeed, anything

had, however,
Peninsular I crossed the passage

the
was

in

rather than what I am. A pretty up in the since rein the campo, out paired. life is this of ours, the carascales,suffering heat among and cold for I would a I ferry-boat peseta a-day. ;
were
more a

rather

the difficiilt,

wolf;

he

fares

better

and of

is
a

current

very to the latter rains. " Am I in New of the

rapidand

swollen, owing

than respected
"

the wretch

shepherd." Castile ?" I demanded But he frequently fares scui-^ily," on the shepherd and dogs fall ferryman, reaching said I ;
"

the farther bank.

"

"

The

raya

is many

upon
"

him,
That

and

from hence," replied the ferrywith leagues man temerity

;

then he pays for his the loss of his head." often the
case, seiior
"

you
come

seem

a
"

stranger. Whence
From

is not his

do you
answer,

?"

and replied,
on

without
on

England," I waiting for an

burra, and
The burra

traveller," said the

Avatches
runs

he shepherd; a nd seldom oppoitunity, way. it is no And

as

I sprang

the

into harm's

to attacking

proceeded him, my way. pleasant very her feet most and,shortly task ; he has both teeth and claws, and plied nimbly, after nightfall, brought me to a village dog or man, who has once felt them, distance from at about two likes not second time to venture a leagues' the river's bank. within his reach. These dogs of mine I sat down in the venta where I put will seize a bear singly with considerable there a was huge fire, consisting up ; alacrity, though he is a most powerful
of the greater part of the olive-tree ; the company miscellaneous
: a

trunk
was

of

an run

animal,

but

I have from
two
a or

seen

them

rather

hunter

with

his

esco-

howling away though there were

hand
"

wolf, even
three of
us

peta :
uieuso

brace

of

dogs,of

shepherdswith im- at that s^pecies for which I

to

encourage

them."

dangerous person

is the wolf,"

'14

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XI.

I looked aroand me upon the moor. part covered with olive-trees. On ; most the company consisted of the same dividuals inthe left, however, at the distance of a to whose conversation few leagues, the mighty mountains I had rose been listening which before I sank into slummentioned. I have already ber They
; but the

"

said

in a seemingly able interminwith the route parallel range, which their I was vehemence. pursuing tops and ; I beg your pardon, Caballero," sides were covei-ed with dazzling snow, and the blasts which I, but I did not hear the commencement came sweeping and he
rim man, beggarwas now the spokeswas siderable haranguingwith con"

eastward

are

those who "A band

of your discourse. Who have been captured ?

"

from
"

them What of a

across
were

plains

the wide and melancholy of bitter keenness.

are

of accursed

ballero," Gitanos,Ca-

mountains

those ?

"

quired I in-

who, mounted beggar, returning barber-surgeon the title of courtesy which I had bestowedlike myselfon a grey burra, joined me
upon than
a

repliedthe
him.

"

During

more

about

noon,

and

proceeded in
"

my

pany com-

leagues. They have roads on the frontier of Castile, and the Caballero,"replied names, many have been the the lers travelbarber of names accordingto many gentlemen ; like yourself whom have the so neighbouringplaces, they they are robbed and murdered. called. It would Yon })ortion of them is stj^-led seem that the Gypsy canaille must needs the Serrania of Plasencia ; and opposite take advantage of these troublous times, to ISIadrid theyare termed the Mountains
"

fortnight they have

infested the

for several

and

form

themselves into
fellows

faction. I
am

It

of

Guadarama, from
descends from way,

is said that the brethren

of whom
more

jwhich
vast

rivei of that name, them ; they rim

two

speakingexpected many

of their

and separatethe Caballero,

is likely kingdoms,for on the other side is Old to join them, which enough, for all Gypsies are thieves : Castile, They are mighty mountains, but praisedbe God, they have been and, though they generate much cold, before they became I take midable, fortoo put down pleasure in looking at them, I saw them myselfconveyed which is not to be wondered at, seeing at that I was to the prison Thanks be to born amongst them, though
,

God.
"

I to

presos." The mystery is now solved,"said and proceeded to despatch myself,

estan
me

Todos

at

I live in a village present, for my sins, of the plain, Caballero, there is another such range
too
"

not

in

was now ready. my supper, which The next day'sjourneybrought

have
"

their secrets
are

their

Spain; they mysteries

hills,

strange tales
of what for may them

told of those broad

to

considerable I have

town,

the

name

of I

and and

they contain in their they

are a

deep

which

It forgotten.
as

is the first

recesses,

chain,

in New
of the

in Castile,

this direction,

you

wander without

passedthe

termino. Many have lost themselves ria ; for, I travelled upon a donkey, on those hills, and have as never again I deemed it incumbent heard told be been of. to me are Strangethings upon satisfied with a couch in keepingwith of them: it is said that in certain of journeying, my manner beingaverse, placesthere are deep pools and lakes,

night usual in the manger close beside the Caballestable,

amongst

days and days coming to auy

by

any

squeamish
generate
a

and

over-delicate

in which
as

dwell
as a

monsters,

huge
come

airs,to

suspicion amongst the people with whom I mmgled that I was aught higherthan what my equipage and outward might appearance lead them to believe. Rising before I on daylight, againproceeded my way, hoping ere night to be able to reach informed Talavera,which I was was ten leaguesdistant. The way tirely lay enover

long

and pine-tree, sometimes

serpents horses of the

out

'

flood,which
commit

and

mighty damage. One thingis that yonder, far away to the certain,
west, in the heart
is
a

wonderful descried

there of those hills, that so narrow valley, is the face of the it. That unknown person and
no sun

only at mid-day
to

be

from

valley
for

lay undiscovered
thousands of years;

an

unbroken

for the level,

dreamedi

CHAP.

XI.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
and broad
an

6.S

of its existence, but at certain hunters ago,

a last, longtime

crown

brim,

very

much

sembling re-

entered do

it

by

chance, and then what they found, Caballero ?

small
nation
or

think you found a They ple, peo-

Englishwaggoner ; about his body was a long loose tunic of or coarse slop, seemingly ticken,
open in
so front, as

that of

tribe
an

of unknown

to allow

the interior
:

speaking
creation of the with

unknown

language, garments
course interthat
isted ex-

to be
to

seen occasionally
a

these short but

had lived there since the who, perhaps,

appeared
velveteen the broad
cover

consist of the

jerkinand
was

w^orld,without
rest

pantaloons. I have
of hat it
was

said that

the

of

their fellow-

brim
as
an

broad,

creatures, and without knowing other beings besides themselves

! of the books

it was, immejise thick

insufiScient to
of coal-black

bush and the

Caballero,did

valley of
have

you the Batuecas written

never

hear

hair,which,
on was

curly, projected
left shoulder
in the

? about

Many
that

either

been

side ; over flunga kind of

was

and satchel,
a

valleyand those people, Caballero,I I am proud of yonder hills ; and were without wife or independent, and children, I would purchase a burra
like that of your own, which 1 see excellent one, and far superior to and travel is
an

mine,

amongst

them

till I knew

and had seen all the mysteries, wondrous which things they contain," Throughout the day I pressedthe burra forward, only stoppingonce in order
to feed the animal

all their

pole. something peculiarly the figure; but what strange about struck me the most was the tranquillity'with which it moved along,takingno heed of me, though of course of aware but f ward orproximity, lookingstraight my sionally alongthe road, save when it occaraised a huge face and large
There
was

hand right

held

longstaff or

which was noAV eyes towards the moon, forth in the eastern quarter. shining
"

standing but, notwiththat she played her part very

; on,

cold

said night,"

well, night came

about the
sun

and

was

still

this the way to Talavera " It is the way to Talavera.

"

I at last, ? and

"

Is the

two

intense ;
which I

from Talavera. As leagties nightis cold," went I am down, the cold became going to Talavera," said I, I drew the old Gypsy cloak, as I suppose you are yourself." still wore, closer around I am going thither,so are you, me,
" " "

but I found
me

it

from

quiteinadequateto protect the inclemency of the

The

Biieno." The
tones

atmosphere.
a was plain,

road, which

and
to

became

not very in the dusk

lay over traced, quite distinctly

rather difficult roads of frequent

these
as

more find,

as cross especiall])

were leadingto different places occurrence.

figureto not they were exactlythe Spanishvoice,and yet there

in them that could

of the voice which delivered in their way were strange and singularas the which the voice belonged ; words
tones
was

of
thing some-

I, however,
manner as

in the best when which momited shone beams

me

proceeded could,and
course

hardly

be

I became I should the

to

dubious

to the

foreign ; the pronunciation also was sincorrect, and the language, though gular,
faultless. with the
manner

take, I
on

lowed alinvariably which I

w^as

But

I in

was

most

struck the last

animal

which

out

I
a

at

the moon was word, hiieno, length spoken. I had heard when it like its faintly, suddenlyby before,but where or something beheld a figure before when I could remember. no means moving by distance, I quickened A pause now ensued ; the figurestalking slight

decide.

At

the pace of the close at its side.

burra, and
It went
nor

was

soon

on

as

before

with

the

most

perfect
no
versation. con-

on,

neither

and indifference,

seemingly with
or

its pace altering

a

It was moment. the tallest aud bulkiest that in Spain,dressed seen

lookinground for the figure of a man,

I had in
a ner man-

either to seek disposition

"

avoid

therto hi-

for the country. strange and singular

you not afraid." said I at last, travel these roads in the dark ? It is said that there are robbers abroad," Are
"

to

On

his

head

was

hat

with

low

"

Are

ycu

not

rather

afraid," replied

66

THE

BIBLE roads in

IN After very

SPAIN.
supper, which the
over

[chap. XI.
consisted order the of my of the

the the the

"

figure,
"

to

travel who
are

these
are a

dark?

"

you
"

ignorant of
an foreigner,

best, by
we

panion, com-

country, who
How

sat

brasero, and
have
versed con-

Englishman !
an

commenced
me

talking.
"

is it that you know Englishman?" demanded That is

no

to

be

Myself.
with you the tone
the

Of

course

you

I,

much

surprised.
"

could

not

Englishmen before, else have me recognised by

voice. I
was a

diffictdt matter," replied " the the figure sound of your ;

of my
"

Abarbenel.
war

young

lad -when

voice
"

was

You

enough to tell me that." said I ; '"supspeak of voices," pose

own

of the
came

Independencebroke
to

out,

to tell me
"

of your the tone who you are it will not That

"

voice

were

"

do," replied my

in which village in our familylived an English officer, order to the to teach newdiscipline levies. He was in my father's quartered and there the

companion ;
me
"
"

you Be not

can

you know
sure

know

nothingabout nothingabout me."

friend ; I

house, where
for the him
consent
me.

he conceived On of my his

fection great af-

with departure,

of that, my

father, I attended

as through both the Castiles, many partly which littleidea." have domestic. I as was partly companion, you Por exemplo," said the figure. with him nearlya year, when he was For example," said I ; to return to his you speak suddenly summoned He would fain have two own languages." country.
am

acquainted with

things of

"

"

"

The
a

figuremoved
moment,
have
two

on, seemed

to consider

taken is

me

with

him, but
no means

to

that

and

then

said

slowly,

father would
now

by

consent.

my It

bueno.
"

You

'"

one

names," I continued : for the house, and the other for

last
seen

saw

the street ; both are good,but the one by which you are called at home is the which one you like best." The in the and
man

dark

five-and-twenty years since I an Englishman ; but you have how I recognised in the you, even night.
"

And Ml/self. you pursue, and obtain support ?

what

kind
means

of life do do you

by
I

what

walked
manner :

on

about
as

ten paces,

same

he of

had he

viously preburra
as

Abarbenel.
I believe
been

"

experienceno
in the
same

culty. diffiway
'

done

all of

sudden

turned,
I had
as tainly

I live much

the taking her. gentlyin his hand, stopped

now a

the

bridle

full view

and form my his

"'

those

huge
I

of his face features and him At of

and

figure,has
me

lived : cermy my father did, for his course mine. At his death I took the It

forefathers

Herculean in the

of possession

herencia,for
was

was

his

still

revisit occasionally
see

only child.
I should wealth
was

not

that requisite

dreams.

in standing in the ?" last he said

us

follow

me moonsliine, staring

face with
:

deep
Are

calm you

eyes. then one

I followed
a

business, for my ; yet,to avoid remark, gi-eat that of my father,mIio was

any
" "

late at nightwhen arrived we We went to a largegloomy at Talavera. house, which companion informed my
was me was

It

longanizero. I have occasionally dealt in wool, but lazily lazily as I had stimulus for exertion. I was, no
; in many
more

however, successful

instances than many

strangely so;
others who whose whole
"

much soul

the We
"

principal posada
entered
the

of

the

toiled

day
was

and

night,and
children?

town.

kitchen, at the

in the trade. any

no

extremity of which a large fire was said my companion blazing. Pepita," advanced who ling smito a handsome girl
towards of We which
us

Have Mi/seJf. Are you married

you ? I have

Abarbenel.
I
am an

"

children,
a

; "a

brasero

and

vate though pri-

married. I
one

I have

wife^

apartment

mine,
were

and

and ; this cavalier is a friend shall sup together." two we

to
an

amiga, or
call

I should
am

wives, for

rather say wedded to both.

shown
two

apartment, in
beds.

I however

were

alcoves containing

sake, for

pearance my amiga, for apI wish to live in

CHAP.

Xl.]

THE

BnJI.E

IN
at
as

SPAIN. the
"
"

67 left
as shoulder,

and am quiet, unwillingto offend the of the surrounding prejudices people. Mi/sclf.You say }'ou are wealthy.
"

me

over

much

say sometimes pass do not With

are

to

What

do you
cross

here ?"

And
as

they
as

tJiemselves
no

In what
stones

does your In Abarbenel.

"

wealth

consist ? and silver,

by

gold

and

; but trouble

tliey go myselfon
the

1 further,

that accotmt.

of

price ;
of

for I have my

the

hoards

inherited all forefathers. The

under

respect
not

to

authorities, they

bad

friends of mine. borrowed

Many of
money

greater part is buried

ground;
the toith

the from
to
as a

higherclass have
me
on

indeed,1

have

never

examined

usury,
extent

part of it. I have

coins of silver and Jezebel

; I have

certain

gold older

than

the times of Ferdinand also

for the

low do

them in my power ; and and corclietes, alguaziis

so

that I hoNQ

the Accursed

and

they would
I

anythingto obligeme,
of
a

We employed in usury. large sums keep ourselves close,however, and pretend to be poor, miserably so ; but on certain
our

in consideration

few

dollars which
;
so

occasionally give them

that matters far otherwise it was,

gates

when at our festivals, occasions, are barred, and our savage

we

the whole go on upon Of old,indeed,it was well.

;

remarkably

yet, I know

not

how

dogs are
our

let loose in the court, food off services such as the

eat

Queen
our

of

Spain cannot
ewers

ffeet in

boast of,and wash of silver, fashioned

and
were

wrought before the discovered, though our

all times
most coarse,

Americas

though other families sulfered much, ours always enjoyed a tolerable share The truth is, that our of tranquillity. familyhas always known liow to guide itself wonderfully. I may say there
is much of
us.

garments
our

are

at

the We

wisdom
have

of

the snake sessed pos-

and there

food

for the than

amongst

always

description. part of the plainest

more

Ave Myself."

of you my of us
two
"

friends ; and witli respect to enemies, it is by no safe to meddle means

witli
us

yourselfand
who is
a

your two There Abarbenel.

"

wives ?
are vants, serone

; for it is

rule

of

our

house
to spare

never

to

and an injury, forgive

nor

are

likewise is about
at
some now a

the

neither trouble ruin and

our

expense

in

bringing
of

youth,and
to
: one

to

leave, being road,

betrothed

distance ; the

destruction upon evil-doers.

"

the heads

other is old
me following
"

he

is

with

the upon mule and car.

are

Myself.
with you ?
"

Do

the

priestsinterfere
let
me pecially alone,es-

Myself. And
at

whither

you

bound

Abarbenel.
in

They
our
own

present ?
"

neighbourhood.

To Abarbenel. Toledo, where I ply Shortly after the death of my father individual endeavoured of longanizero. hot-headed trade occasionally one my evil turn, but I soon I love to wander to do me quited rean about, though I seldom Since I left the prisoned him, causing him to be imstray far from home.

Englishman
Castile.

my

feet have the bounds

never

once

on

stepped beyond

of

New

in

prisonhe
mad
"

remained and

and chargeof blasphemy, a long time,till died.

I love to visit Toledo, and to think of the times which have long since departed establish myself ; I should

he went in whom

Myself. Have
Abarbenel.
"

you a head in Spain, ? is rested the chief authority Not certain the

there, were
accursed evil eye. an
"

there look

not

so

ones, who

upon

me

many with

however,
much
one

exactly.There holy families who

own

aj-e,
joy en-

consideration ; my
"

is say.

Myself.
you you
me

Are Do

are

you the authorities

loiown

for what molest

of these
; and
one

I may chiefest,
a

My
man

was grandsire

holy particularly
my father say,
to

?
"

I liave heard
an

Abarbenel.
to

Peopleof
I
am

course as

suspect
I conform
to

that his

be what

; but

house

came night archbishop have merelv to secretly,

the

outwardly in wa}'s, they do

True

most
not

respects

their
me.

satisfaction of

kissinghis
can an

head.

interfere with

Myself.
"

How

tliat be?

What

it is that sometimes, when I enter reverence the church to hear the mass, tliey glare for one

could like

entertain iirchbishop your ? grandsire

F

or yourself

68

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

XI.

Aharbenel.
"

More of
us,
never

than
at

you least

imagine.
his father what in his he fancy. in-

of
we

abode

are

seldom

the

large rarely
business.

towns enter

He
was,

was

one

prefer
large
we

the
towns
are

villages,
but not
a on

and

and

he

could
with

forget

the

deed, In-

had

learned
He

reverence

numerous

people,
of

said could
upon

he
not

had
;

tried
the and had

to

forget
was

and which

there

are

few
more

provinces
than
are

Spain
lies. famithose from serving trades.

it,

but

he

that

riiak
that
borne

contain
None of who

twenty
poor,
and
more

continually
from
terrors

him,
he

even

us

his with

childhood
a

its
at
so

among choice each Not that

us

serve,

do

so

troubled himself

mind,
no

till
;

last he he then

than otlier
we

necessit}% acquire
the

for

by

he
went

could
to

bear my
one

longer
with whom he he
renown

different time of the

grandsire,
whole

unfrequently
of

sei-vice

is

remained

night;
where much

courtship
marry

also,
the

and

servants

returned afterwards

to

his

diocese,
in

shortly
for

eventually
house. We

daughters

of

the

died,

sanctity. Mtf self.

me.

continued
of the
to

in

discourse the
next

the

greater
I

What
"

you
reason

say
to

surprises
that

part

night; depart.

morning
companion,

Have of you

you
are

suppose

prepared
however,
I
was

My
to
"

many the

to

be

found

amongst

advised
for my that

me

remain And
if
"

where

priesthood
Abarbenel.
"

day.

you
you
manner.

spect re-

Not There
are

to

suppose,
many and either
not

but

to
as

counsel,"
farther

said
in will way
;

he,
this

will

know

it. the

such

not

proceed
the

amongst
the the

priesthood, priesthood

amongst
;
some

To-night
of in

diligence
on

arrive
to

fi-om

inferior
most

Estremadura,

its

ISIadrid.
the safest

learned
have been many do. the

and of

famed
us,
or

of of
at
our

them

Deposit
and
As most

yourself
speedy

therein mode
I

it of

is

Spain
at

blood
this

ti'avellmg.

least,
as

and
I

of There

them is
one

day

for

your
her.

animal,

will

myself
is

chase pur-

think festival

particular
four
to

My
me

servant that Let in

us,

here,
will be

and
of

of

year
are

at

which
sure

fied dignime

has
;

informed
to
us.

she

ecclesiastics
and
secure,

visit
close

service
the

therefore,

pass
like

then,
and gone
floor

when the

all

is

made

and have upon

day

together
and then

communion,
on

fitting

ceremonies
sit down

brothers,

proceed
We did the

our

rate sepathe

been the

through,
and
curse.

they

journeys." together
;

pass

day
rived ar-

and

when

diligence
within,
and

Ml/self.
large
towns

Are
"

you

numerous

the the

deposited
of

myself
the

on

?
no means

morning Madrid.

second

day

arrived

Abarbenel^Bj

; our

places

at

09

CHAPTER
Lodging
The Madrid

XII.

at

"

My

Hostess"
The

British Execution"

Ambassador"

Mendizabal of Madrid"

"

Baltasar
The

"

Duties

of

National" Lower

Young

Blood"

Population
crabbed

Higher

Orders"

Classes" The

The Bull-fighter"

Gitano.

It

was

the commencement I reached

of

when
a

Madrid.
a

After

February staying
to
a

account

of the word

of his opinions, liberality from him is sufficient to and furious to

and

few

days at
de

posada,I removed
I la

bringthem
the Puerta

lodgingwhich
the

engaged

at

No.

3, in

all out armed del Sol. He

Zarza, a dark dirty present confined to his close to the and fond street,which, however, was very dissipated, Puerta del Sol, the most central point and of bull-fighters of INIadrid, into which four or five of worse."
the

Calle

is, however, at bed, for he is

of the
pany com-

people still

debouche, and all times of the year, the for the idlers great placeof assemblage of the capital, poor or rich.
which

principalstreets
is,at

It which

was

rather I had

singularhouse
up

in

taken

occupied the front floor; my apartments

immense
on
one

abode. I my part of the first consisted

a

motive for visiting my principal the hope of obwas taining Spanishcapital permissionfrom the government in to print the New Testament the Castilian language,for circulation in Spain, I lost no time, upon rival, my arin takingwhat I considered to be the the necessary steps. entire stranger at Madrid, I was an and bore no letters of introduction to any have

As

of

an

parlour,and

small

chamber

might undertaking, of sofa,constituted table,and a species I entertained so that,notwithstanding the whole. It was cold and of the assistance a on aiiy, hope success, relying very of the Almighty, this hope was owing to the draughtswhich poured in from three large windows, and from not at all times very vivid, but was quently freThe mistress of the with the clouds of ddsundry doors. overcast house, attended by her two daughters, spondency. ushered in. Did Mendizabal me ever at this time prime see was you a manded demore of and minister considered magnificent apartment?" was Spain,
very little furniture:
a

side in which I slept ; the parlour, itssize, contained notwithstanding

few

chairs,a

of influence persons in this assisted me

who

"

the

former

"

is it not fitfor

as

man

of almost hands
were

unbounded

power,

? Last winter it was son king's pied occuthe by great General Espartero." The hostess was an exceedinglyfat woman,
a

in whose

nies placedthe desti-

native of

Valladolid,in

Old

of the country. I therefore dered consithat if I could by any means duce inhim to favour my views, I should

Castile. " Have you any other family," have no reason from to fear interruption I demanded," besides these daughters ?" other quarters, and I determined upon
"

Two

sons," she

replied ;

"

one

of

them an officer in the army, father of this urchin," pointing but to a wicked

applyingto him. Before taking this step, however,

deemed
it advisable with I
to

clever-looking boy of
at that moment

about

twelve, who
room

Mr. upon drid, the British ambassador at MaVilliers, and the freedom received

wait

bounded

into the

;
to
a

permitted
in with

the other is the most celebrated national in Madrid : he is a tailor by trade,and

British

subjectto
was

ask his advice

this affair. with him

great

his

name

is Baltasar.

He

has

much

kindness, and
on

influence with the other

nationals, on

various

enjoyed a conversation before I subjects

70

THE the matter He with which

BIBLE
most

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XII.

introduced
at heart.
an

I had

said that

interview
to

Mendizabal
me

endeavour
same

procure
me

hands. that he could frankly After I had been not hope that any good would arise from standingabout a of Mendizabal denly sudan hour, it,as he knew him to be violently judicedquarter prelifted and of British the a pair sharp Foreign against up eyes, and fixed with and was them Bible Society, far more me a likely peculiarly upon than encourage to discountenance scrutinizing glance. any efforts which I have lar a to seen glance very simitheymight be disposed the Beni Israel," the Gospel into to that amongst make for introducing resolute Spain. I, however, remained thoughtI to myself. and bein my desire to make the trial, fore My interview with him lasted nearly troduction Some hour. an I left him obtained a letter of insingular discourse I found him, as I between us to Mendizabal. : passed the had I been to informed, a bitter enemy to Early one morning repaired Bible of which he spoke in in which the office the of was Society, palace, a wing and hatred of the Prime Minister ; it was of terms bitterly contempt ; and by

time, told

ing
if I wished for he would
one,

who, as I was subsequently man, both in informed,had acquired a name stood at Englishand Spanishliterature,
end of the table with papers in his

but,at

the

one

"

....

cold, and
there is
a

the noble

Guadarama,
view from
snow.

of the

which

no

means

friend

to the

Christian

ligion, re-

palaceFor
at

which I
was

was plain,

covered with

not

for. account easily and however, discouraged,

matter
was

I could

least three hours I remained shivering with cold in an ante-room, with several other the
man

pressedupon him the and broughtme thither,

so

which

for aspirants of power. his

an

interview

with

At last his appearance,

private
and

far successful, as to obtain a that at the expiration of a few he

more

eventually promise,
months,

secretary made
after who him I

when
a

puttingvarious
was

others,addressed
and
was

himself what
an

to the questions to me, asking

I wanted.

I told the

As is not

that I of
"

Englishman,and

hoped the country would be in lowed state, I should be alti'anquil the Scriptures. to print I was goingaway he said, Yours the first application I have had :
"

bearer will

letter from

nister. the British Miever I objection his lency," ExcelI handed

since I have I have

held been

the reins of government

If you have no myself deliver it to said

he; whereupon

Several it to him, and he withdrew. admitted before me; individuals were

at

in this pestered themselves manner by English,calling who have of late Christians, Evangelical into Spain. Only come over flocking last week
I his way
a

hunchbacked

fellow

found

last,however, my
I
was

own

turn

came.

and He

ushered

into the presence of

a

engaged
me

into my cabinet whilst I was in important and told business,

was

Mendizabal. stood behind

on

that Christ

coming.
And
now

table covered

with

his eyes were intently you have made your appearance, and papers, fixed. He took not the slightest notice almast persuaded to embroil me myself when T entei-ed, and leisure I had with the if they more as priesthood, yet He was a huge survey him. athletic man, somewhat taller than myself, six feet two without who measure

which

enough to

did What

not
a

abhor

me

enough already.
is this which
waters

strange infatuation
lands hands
to

my

shoes;

his

complexion
his teeth

was

drives you over florid, Bibles in your

nose

and ! but

My good

with it sir,

his features
white

fine and

regular,his

is not

Bibles

we

want,

and quiteaquiline,
:

splendidly and
may
eome

gunpowder
pay with
a

though scarcely fifty years of hair his was remarkablygrey ; he age, dressed in a rich morning gown, Avas with a gold chain round his neck, and his feet. morocco on slippers
His secretary, a fine intellectual-look-

with, and,

above

rather guns down the rebels put that all, money, Ave you shall

tlie troops; whenever these three things you

have
can

heartyw^elcome, if not, Ave really with your visits, however dispense

great the honour."

THE
and coffee-houses, private

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
neck of the of the

ICHAP.

XII.

son to pi-atetrea-

claspthe
a

together.

Let

Jorge;

let them

them prate, Don prate ; the destinies of

certain

it is drawn signal
means

and on prisoner, and tighter the

screw,
we

tighterby
life becomes waited
a

until had tude multi-

Spain do not depend on the wishes of and the but on ojalateros pasteleros,
hands of
stout

extinct.

After

amongst

assembled

myselfand
"

like gallantnationals, Don friends, Jorge.

am

considerable

time,the

first of the
on

I Mijself.
your

sorry to learn from that lady-mother you are strangely legsbeing allowed the

appeared culprits ; he was saddle without an or ass,

to

mounted

his stirrups, dangle nearly to in

a

dissipated.
Baltasar.
has toid you you and I
am
"

Ho, ho,

Don I

Jorge,she
would young,
am

ground. He was dressed robes, with sulphur-coloured

peaked
which he written conical red hat
on was a

yellow

highhead,
was
fession con-

that,has she

; what

his which the

have, Don

Jorge?

shaven.

Between
on

his hands

blood will have its course. young called Baltasar the gay by all the and nationals, that I
am so

held

parchment,
faith. Two

something, I
of

believe

other my When my
sure

it is

on

account

of

led priests

the

and gaiety I mount

of my the liberality

opi- animal nions

them.
on

by

the bridle ; two

others walked

popular among
me,

guard I invariably carry

and then there is

either side, litanies, chanting amongst which I distinguished the words of

guitarwith
to be
a

heavenlypeace
had had

and

for the tranquillity, reconciled and did not and been He of

to

fiincion at the

guard-house. culprit
church,

been had

the

We

send and

for

nationals become whilst

wine, Don Jorge, and the ing wild,Don Jorge,dancthe

strums

confessed

received
exhibit mounted dis-

and absolution,
to

mission promisedad-

drinkingthrough
the songs
sin
a su

Baltasarito

night, and guitar

:
"

heaven.

the

least

symptom
from the

fear, but
was

singsthem
*'

of Germania

the animal

led,
he

not Una romi Le peno

pachi
cliindomar,"
"c. "c.

supported, up

where scaffold,

That from

is

Gitano,
toreros

Don

Jorge;

I learnt it

the chair, and the fatal collar put round his neck. One of the then in a loud voice commenced priests
was

placedon

the

speak
blood.
are

of Andalusia, who all Gitano,and ai-e mostly of Gypsy I learnt it from them
;

saying the Belief, and

the words the which commenced
was

the

peated reculprit

after him.

On

den, sudhind, be-

they
a

executioner,who
of
man

stood

all friends of

mine,
I

Montes
never

Sevilla miss Don Baltasar in the

and is sure

Poquito
of
to

Pan.

funcion

bulls,Don
no

be there with I would

Jorge. his amiga.

wretched

turning the screw, and the prodigious force, almost instantly was a
screw

Jorge,tliere are
winter, or
but
a we

bull-fimcions

corpse ; but, as the the priest began to misericordia

as

went
"

round,

carry

happilyto-morrow
funcion

you to one, there is an execution,

; and there

et pax et tranquillitas" and still

shout,

de la horca

and he

he shouted, his voice became walls louder, till the lofty rang with it : then mouth

louder
of the drid Maprit's culhe its its I

will go, Don Jorge. We did go to see this which I shall longremember.
were

down, stooping

execution,
The minals cri;

placed his
ear,

close to

tv/o

young
most

men,

brothers
der, mur-

would
course

they suffered for a having in the

open the house of

atrocious
of

shouting, just as if the spii'it through pursue to eternity, cheering it on

effect
so was

still

dead
an

night broke
whom

way.

The
was

tremendous. that tarily I involun-

aged man,
whose in

myself

excited

they put to death, and they stole. Criminals hanged as they are

" shouted and so misericordia," did others. God was Spain not thought many in England, or not of; Christ was thought of; only as in France, but strangled the priest guillotined was thoughtof,for he seemed wooden a at that moment upon to be the first beingin stage. They sit down of chair with a post behind, existence, on a kind and to have the power of to which is affixed an iron collar with and the of heaven

property
are

not

opening
of

shutting

gates

screw

this iron

collar is made

to

or

hell,justas

he should think

pro-

CHAP.

XII.J
A

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

73

instance of the sucseated in hundreds cessful are seen striking by the of the Popish system, fountain sides, %yorking upon your empty wateraim has ever been to keep casks, or staggering whose gi-and with them filled from minds far the stories to as of as houses. possible people's topmost lofty God, and to centre their hopes and fears Hail, ye caleseros of Valencia ! who, exeaition in the priesthood.The of lolling lazily against your vehicles, rasp lar; simifor your the second tobacco was culprit precisely cigarswhilst paper the scaffold a few he ascended waiting for a fare. Hail to you, beggars per. minutes his last. I have whole
as

after his brother

had

breathed

of La

INIancha !

men

and

women,

who, wrapped in
visited
the has
most

coarse

mand blankets,de-

of the

principal
the
me now

of capitals
none

world, but
ever so

upon interested I dwell

of the you,

at the gate charityindifferently the palace or prison. Hail to

valets from and

the

mountains,mayor-

this

of city

Madrid,

in which

found its

myself.

I will not

upon
are

its public its streets, its edifices, squares,

Biscayand Guipuscoa, toreros from Andalusia, from Galicia, shopkeepers riposteros

from
ans,

domos

secretaries from

fountains, though

some

of these

Catalonia !

Hail

to

ye, Castili-

remarkable

enough :

but

has Petersburg

Estremenians,and
of the

finer streets,Paris and Edinburgh more London far nobler statelyedifices, squares,
more

whatever
sons

! And calling rabble capital, thousand worked

Aragonese, of lastly, genuine

whilst

Shiraz

can

boast

of

ye of

twenty

of Madrid, manolos, whose

waters.
a

mud

fountains, costly though not cooler But the population ! Within one wall, scarcely leagueand a
are circuit,

terrible knives,on

the second such orders

May,
And the

morning grim havoc

! the

of Mnrat amongst the legions

half in

contained human
most

two

dred hun-

higher

"

ladies
se-

thousand vital world be

forming the
mass

and gentlemen, the cavaliers tainly beings, cerextraordinary noras ; shall I pass them by in in the entire The them truth is I have
; I

and

silence ?

to

found

always remembered that this mass is strictly Spanish. The is extraof Constantinople ordinary population enough, but to form it twenty
nations have contributed
;

; and

be

it

mingled
what I I

little to say about but littlein their society,

saw

and
means

of them in my of those

by

no

tended

to exalt them
am

gination. ima-

not

one

who,

Greeks,

wherever menians, Arthe and which

to

Persians, Poles, Jews,

they go, make it a constant the higherorders, to disparage practice

exalt There the the
are

in capitals the lords huge popuhigh aristocracy, lation of Madrid, with the exception and ladies,the sons and daughters of of a spi-inkling of foreigners, c onstitute the able remarkmost chiefly nobilit}^ French tailors, and peruand the most glove-makers, interesting part of the is This the at a quiers,is strictly case Spanish, though population. considerable portion not natives of London. at are Vienna, and more especially the place. Here rival the English aristocrat colonies of Who are no can in loftj' in Germans, as at Saint Petersburg stature, in dignified bearing, ; no Lisbon at of and valour heart ? of a s English factories, strength hand, ; no
many

and latter, by the by, of Spanishorigin, the old speaking amongst themselves

populace at

their

pense. ex-

Spanish language;

but the

multitudes

of insolent

Yankees
as

ing loungthe
seems

Who
a

rides
his Muth

nobler And

horse ? who
more

Who

has

through the
vannah, with
say, the
an

streets,
our
own

at

Hato
we

firmer

seat ?

lovely

air which

than But

wife, or

or sister, daughter?

land is
to

whenever
a

cracy, respect to the Spanish aristothe gentlemen, I believe

on valiers ca-

choose

take

it;

but

population

the ladies and and is said I have

senoras,

which, however composed

and

strange and wild, and of various elements, is Spanish, that

so

the

less I

of them

the I

to points

will remain itself shall exist. city doi^es of of ooarse Asturia

long as Hail, ye aguaas

the

which

justalluded
that

the better. know

confess, however,

little

! who, in your dress about them ; they have, perhaps, their duffel and leathern skull-caps, and the of such to I admirers, pens

THE leave their panegyric. Le described them as theywere centuries ago. but

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XII

Sage

has

nearlytwo

after my arrival, I one day entered a low in a neighljourhood tavern notorious for which I

His description is anything and I do not captivating, think that they have improved since of the im the period of the sketches mortal Frenchman. but of all I would The
sooner

robbery and
on a

murder,
hours of

and

in

for the last two

I had

been

wandering
Avas

voyage

discovery.

talk of the lower of the lower for me, muleteer. is

drid, not only of Maclass,

and required refreshment. fatigued, I found the placethronged with people,who had all the appearance of ruffians. I saluted them,
me

Spain.

Spaniard
more

upon
to

which the

class has whether He

an

much

terest inthey made ceremony. and

manolo, labourer,
is
not
a

way taking off their I

was

for

sombreros

with

bar, great

or

common

emptied a glassof
about
to

val de

being; he
has

low, fela horrible-looking dressed in a buff jerkin, leather of the Russian mujik, who generosity will give his only rouble rather than which breeches, and jackboots, came his half and his the stranger shall want ; nor on thighs, haA-ing placid wa}^ up

not, it is

He man. extraordinary and true, the amiability

penas

pay

for it and

depart,when

courage,
to

which
at

renders the is him

him

insensible of his certain and

his head
were

white
a

hat, the rims of which

fear,and, Tsar, sends

There

command

singing to
more

death.*
the

hardness

of disposition Spaniard ; he possesses, however, a which it of proud independence, spirit admire. is is impossible He but to me, but very Idnd, you appear to know the honour of laiowing not of course ignorant, ; but it is singular, I have found amongst that I have you." invariably !" replied the being, educated Not know classes the lov/ and slightly me I the know I sentiment than torero. far more of am Sevilla, liberality you less self-devotion
" " "

in the

cumference, yard and a half in cirthe croAvd, pushed through and confronting me, roared : ! vamos Otra capita : Otra Inglesito !" capita Thank you, my good sir, you are
at least
"

"

amongst

the

the fashion

It has long been upper. of the to talk of the bigotry

well ; you are the friend of Baltasarito, who is a friend of mine, the national,

and their mean jealousyof and a very good subject." Spaniards, Then he is lliis true to a certain turning to the company, foreigners, said with in it holds a strong extent a sonorous tone, laying : but good chiefly of every respect to the upper classes. If foreign emphasis on the last syllable of the received its word, accordingto the custom valour or talent has never rufianesca meed in the throughoutSpain: Spain, great body gente proper of the Spaniardsare in not Cavaliers, and strong men, this cavalier certainly is the friend of a fi-iend of mine. fault. heard I have lumniated Wellington caEs mucho hombre. There is none in this proud scene like of his He crabbed him in the old soldiers but the never speaks Spain. triumphs, by of Aragon and the Asturias, who sisted Gitano asthough he is an Inglesito." do not believe it," replied We manca at Salaveral seto vanquish the French voices. It is not and the Pyrenees. I have heard grave sible." posthe manner of riding of an English I tell It is not possible, but it was jockey criticised, by the say you ?
" " '' "

idiotic heir

of

INIedina

by

prisonall your that you are always boasting the crabbed of Gitano, : though bull-fighters Apropos Shortly can speak know I say you nothing of it come forward and speakto his worship in the the when At. the last attack on Warsaw,
a

picadorof the

Celi, and not INIadrilenian ring. bull"

you you

it is. who have

Come
been

forward, Balseiro,
in

life,and

"

loss of the Russians amounted to upwards of the soldiery mounted men, twenty thousand in measured tlie breach, repeating, chant, one " of their pop'.uar Come, let us cut songs : the

crabbed

Gitano."

A low, slight, but active figure stepped in his shirt-sleeves, forward. He was and
wore a

cabbage," "c.

montero

cap

his feattires

CHAP.

XII,]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

75

were

handsome,
demon.
He

but

they

were

those

of

or

English,
it."
"

fci

[ understand

not

word

of

spoke

few of I the had

words

in

the

broken of
demned con-

Did

not

say "that

to

you,"
knew ?

cried

the

Gypsy
me

slang

prison,
ever

inquiring
in I the

bull-fighter,
of the crabbed

you

nothing
this
he for glesito In-

whether

been

Gitano
I

But
all him

cell,
a

and ?

whether

knew

what

does.

understood
none

said. the

Gitana
"

was

Vaya,
shouted
"answer

there Gitiino.
next to

is

like
He

Vamos
a

Inglesito,"
of the

Sevilla,
the

crablied
too ;

is
there

good
is
none

ginete,
like leathers
need purse. and

in
monro

voice
in

thunder;
crabbed the

myself,
rides
with

Gitano."

him,
for such will he live
too

only
short. money,
I have
a

he

stirrup
if you you have my

I
was,

answered and many

one

robber,
whose
name

Inglesito,
I is will
at

too

of All is

lend your

for of

year
;

in

the

ruffian him in

histories
a

sei-vice, just
the

that
four

Madrid
some

answered

speech
of the

not

little

have

gained

of

length,

in

the

dialect

thousand

chules

by

lottery.
cup,

rage, CouI

Estremenian
"

Gypsies.
it is

Englishman!
crabbed
"It is

Another
!" hand
"

believe

the

Gitano,"
either pound,
that

will And
on
as

pay he

all.

I, Sevilla
his

muttered
*

Balseiro.
of

clapped

repeatedly
I, Sevilh
!

his

Twelve
in tlie

ounces

bread,

small

breast,

reiterating

giveu

prison.

16

CHAPTER
at Court-Quesada Intrigues
nese

XIII.
of the Cortes-The Three

and

Galiano-Dissolution
of Trent-The Treasure. The

Secretary--AragoThieves-Beneoict

Council Pertinacity-The
The Men of Lucerne"

Asturian-The

Mol"

Mendizabal him

had told

me

to

call upon
not

againat the end givingme hopesthat

oppose

of three he would

months,
then

himself to the
Testament
;

of the publication the be had

NeV
into

before, however,
he elapsed, had

three months

had

fallen
to

sonal
were

dislike to the minister. They likewise encouraged by Cordova,

that time

who

at

commanded

the army,

and

was

with displeased

Mendizabal,

inasmuch
the with

and disgrace,

ceased

the latter did not supply as demands of the general pecuniary sufficient alacrity, though it is

prime minister. had An intrigue

him,
at

said that the been formed against sent for the of which two not devoted were

payment
to

greater part of what was of the troops was

that

the

head

quondam
townsmen,

friends of his, and fellowGaditanians, Isturitz and

of them had
been

Alcala

Galiano; both

purpose, but was funds in the French and for the use and behoof of the name, said Cordova. invested
in the

tention It is,however, by no deed liberals in their day, and inmeans egregious my inof the account of those cortes members to write an principal which events were which, on the Angouleme invasion,had political passing around hurried Madrid at this period to Ferdinand from me ; sufficeit to Cadiz, and kept him prisonerthere say that Mendizabal, findinghimself in all his projects thwarted until that impregnable town gent by the rethought the and former and the both of them oi general, proper to surrender, would adopt no measure which had been subsequently in Engrefugees land, whom
_

where number These

able they had spent a considerof years.

he

recommended, whilst the and refused inactive,

latter remained to

engage

covered gentlemen,however, finding the enemy, which by this time had refrom the check caused by the themselves about this time exceedingly death of Zumalacarregui, and was ing makpoor, and not seeing any immediate and considerable of from siipporting progress, resigned, prospect advantage his left the the f or to Mendizabal, themselves, time, field, considering open he adversaries, men as an as possessed he, though moreover, good quite and immense the of governingSpain in in and as capable cortes, majority
"

determined to had the voice of the nation, at least the the present emergency," in his favour. secede from the party of their friend, liberal part of it, head of had hitherto and became Isturitz whom Thereupon supported, they
to set

up for themselves.
an

the

cabinet, Galiano
and
a

minister of

rine, ma-

They therefore formed

to

opposition
bers mem-

Mendizabal
of

in the cortes ; the

of Rivas Duke of the interior. These were of the

certain

nister mithe

this

assumed opposition

the

heads
as

moderado

name

of moderados, in contradistinction but and his followers,who Mendizabal moderados ultra-liberals. The
at

they were

by
with

no

government; means popular

the

to
were were

Madrid, and

feared

nationals,

more

themselves one hated the latter body,and feared gent who encouraged by the Queen Reof the name of Quesada a man aimed at a little nothing, Christina, who posed disa very than the liberals were stupidindividual,but a great power had a perwho, at one periodof his life, to allow her, and who fighter,
"

they associated

CHAP.

XIII.]
coinmauded
called

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN

77

a legion or 'oodyof spoke waspishlywhether to friend or for Army of the Faith, foe ; but you must have patience both on the French and whose a few much are we exploits, days, occupied very too at present. We have been outvoted in are Spanish side of the Pyrenees, the cortes,and this afternoon we to requirerecapitulation. well kuoAvn intend made This person was to dissolve them. It is believed that captain-general the rascals will refuse to depart, of jNIadrid. but the clever member of far will most stand the door at Quesada By ready this government to turn them Galiano, whose was out, should they prove after I had formed Come and you will shortly acquaintance refractorj\ along, He of derable consiarrival. a man was funcion." a perhapssee my and particularly well After hour's debate, the cortes literature, an versed in that of his own He dissolved were without it being necescountry. sary

had

meu

the

"

was,

moreover,

and fluent, elegant,

was

to

call in the and

aid

of the

able redoubtforthwith

forcible
rado

and speaker,
was

to the
cortes

modewhat their
was

Quesada,
gave Duke of
me
a

Galiano

party within
and minister
as

the

Quesada
horses
made say, the

without, namely,
chariots. of marine
not

of
me

letter to his colleague, the in whose liivas, department

was

Why

he

he told

vested the power

either

is difficult to

Spain did

haps, possess any ; perhis

the permission to givingor refusing printthe book in question. The duke

was
a

however, from

Andalusian an thirty, by birth, and wrote like his tAvo colleag-ues. He had pubnearly as well as his own lished journ several works, tragedies, I believe, tongue, having,indeed, during his soin England, chieflysupported and enjoyed a certain kind of himself by writing for reviews and literary reputation. He received me honourable journals, an occupation,with the greatestaffability ; and having but to which few foreign exiles in heard what I had to say, he replied with a most to devote England would be qualified bow, and a captivating themselves. Go to genuineAndalusian grimace:
"

which English language,

knowledge of he spoke

very handsome

young

man,

of

about

"

He
man,

was

and who

irritable and very small my secretary ; go to my secretary el bitter enemy hara por listed el gusto." So I went to every perto son stood in the way of his advancement. the secretary, whose Oliban, name was
a
"

He with

hated

Mendizabal and of afraid

never

an

who Aragonese, whose

nor manners

was

not
were

handsome,
neither gant elesion permis? "I
"

undisguisedrancour, spoke of him but in terms

contempt.
shall have
some
"

and

sured unmea-

affable.

"

You

want

am

that I

to

print

the

Testament

in inducing do," said I. "And to come difficulty you have give me permissionto his Excellency about it?" continued Oliban. print the Testament," said I to him Very true," I replied. I Mendizabal is a jackass," suppose one it without day. you intend to print Galiano. Yes." Then his Excellency replied Caligulamade his notes ? horse consul, which induced I suppose cannot give you permission," liOrd this huge to send over said the It Aragonese secretary. buri'o of the Stock Exchange to be our determined the of Council was by minister." Trent that no part of the Scripture It would be very ungrateful, should on be printed in any Christian my

Mendizabal

to

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

part, were
to the utmost

I not

to

confess

to Galiano, who obligations

great my assisted me

country
church."

without
"

the

notes

of

the
was

of his power in the busiwhich had brought me less to Spain. after the ministry was Shortly formed, I went to him and said, " that now or
lever
n

that ago ? know how said

"

many I demanded. many years

How

years "I do ago

"

not

it Is

was,"

Oliban ; " but such was of the Council of Trent."

the decree

Spain
the
I

was

the

time
"

to

make do

my
a

behalf."

I will

efl'ort at present governed accordingto decrees of the Council of Trent?" so," said
an

le, in

waspish tone ; for he

always inquired.

"

In

some

points she

is/'

78

THE the

BIBLE
this is ? Are
?
"

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XII1"
the

answered
one.

Aragonese,
who
are

"

and

talkingabout continually
of Trent." " I wish the have he
was

Council
up
as

But known

tell me,
to

you " O

the

British

you minister
"

in the

Trent

yes, and he takes a great interest " said he ? Does in the matter." Oliban ; " that indeed alters the case : if you I
can

middle," said Galiano, who,

observed
"I
must

I for
i

already, spoke excellent

wish he
was

English;
"

there

show
an

me

that

his

lency Excel-

talkingsuch
we one

nonsense.

takes

interest in this business, he, oppose

not

However," said offend Oliban, he is

shall not certainly The British

myself to

it."
minister

performed all

than I more wish, and much could expect. He had an interview of Rivas, with whoi:a he with the Duke I could had the He the much duke
moreover was

vice; serof us, and has done us much clever he is, moreover, a very but he is an Aragonese, and when man, of that nation once one gets an idea

into his

head,

it is the
to to

most

difficult ever, howis

'

thingin
we

the world will go

it ; dislodge He
an

discourse

: upon my all smiles and courtesy. letter to a wrote private

affair

him.

old
,

friend
but

doubt no of mine, and I have him shall be able to make that we

.'

So the next listen to reason." day I called upon Galiano, at his marine or I admiralty office (what shall I call it?), he wrote a letter directed to ci'own all, thence we from and the nour hoproceededto the ^ did which he me in to myself, of the interior,a magnificent bureau he had a regard for to say, tlJit had formerly been the which afford him would edifice, and that

duke, which
when

he

advised

I next

paid him

to present visit ; and,

ine

me,

nothing
the the the

greater pleasurethan
had
was

to

hear

that

I I

casa an

of the interview aside with

as

where Inquisition, with Oliban, whom

to

we

had

obtained delivered
more

permissionwhich
to

Galiano

seeking.

So I went and

the

duke,
ten

took held the

not

the
a

and times

kind read

letter. He was affable than

him

window, and there long conversation,

fore: bemost

which,

he sudden

smiled letter, extended

sweetly,and

then, as enthusiasm, he

if seized with his

me,

and they spoke in whispers, I room was immensely large, did to came hear. At lengthGaliano is some and said, There difficulty
"

almost theatrical, with respect to this business of yours, in a manner arms that you are a " told Oliban but I have el Al secretario, hara por exclaiming, friend of mine, and he says that that listed el gusto." Away I hurried to the him with now, with all is sufficient ; remain v/ho received me

secretary,
the him then the

coolness

of

an

icicle. his

I related to

words

of

and principal,

put into his hand the letter of the tary British minister to myself. The secreand then read it very deliberately,
said that it was
"

he will do anythingto oblige you ; upon farewell :" whereyour affair is settled and I remained with he departed, and
"

evident

his

Excellency
matter."

did

take

an

interest in the
me

He

then

asked

my

name,

and, taking

if for the as a sheet of paper, sat down of writing the permission. I purpose ever, in ecstasy. All of a sudden, howwas his lifted he stopped, head, op and then, seemed to consider a moment, his putting
"

proceeded forthwith to cluded, write having consomething, which and he took out a box of cigars, me other, anand offered having lightedone which I declined, as I do not smoke, he placed his feet againsttlie to address me, and thus proceeded table, French in the language. speaking that I set It is with great pleasure I in this a nd, say capital, may you
Oliban, who
"'

grace this business. I consider it a dispen behind his ear, he said, upon there is no editior that to the Council of decrees the Spain Amongst of the Gospel in circulation,at leasi is one to the effect "... of Trent such a one be within the read as would
"

Oh
A

dear ! " said I.

of all classes of

the highesto: society, with

notei

singular person is this Oliban," gine imasaid I to Galiano ; '* you cannot trouble he gives me : he is what
"

poorest

one

unencumbered

and commentaries, human bidk. ing it to an miwieldv

SAvell devices, I have

ru

80

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
he

[chap. XIII.
fixed them
were
on an

man,

of better blood than herself. Good

and, whenever

any
exwere some

day, Seilor Don

Francisco.

very fine ^^ather thxs-Those tiiree merced Dios con su vam to drink water, stopped fellows, who just son are great thieves, tme sons of the pri-I am always civil to them, for it

ilL ? goes it)

Que

tal

one's countenance,

full ot
as

;?essionof greateagerness,
Si-tant tidings.
of coarse
on

If he of

exnecting the communication

He
a

was

dressed
sers trou-

commonly enough in
an his head was of which

and jacket
a

cloth of had

russet

colour;

would
pay
me

not

do to be

on

ill terms

they

immense been

to places so as in some and mutilated, the jags or dentic es of a resemble a about they : year ago beyond He returned the salutation of the orangerobbed a man a littlefarther on and bowing to me, forthwith produced man, tlie second bridge. By the way, I cornitwo scented wash-balls,which he brother, not to go there, as i sel vou, in a rough dissonant believe you often do ; it is a dangerous oflered for sale, but which for intended Spanish, and iargon, robbed

not, just as they tlnnk proor per trouble on in some I have been

the brim

sombrero much cut

their account

sa^v^

place. They ill-treated him, but

was an

gentleman
upon

his brother, who

soon

ieemed more

like

the

Valencian who he

or

escribano,
some
one

was

their

trail,and had
wanted
it chanced

them
to

arrested; but he them, and identify

^t^ion asking him my

'"""TaTa Swiss
Mol

was,

the following conversation ensued beof Lucerne,

a

that

they had

stopped to

drink water at my stall, justas they did This the escribano heard ot, and now forthwith had me away to the prison to them I knew confront me with them. had learnt m well enough, but I my travels when to close my eyes and when I told the escribano to open them ; so had ever that I could not say that I^
seen

Benedict
m

by

name,

once

soldier
a

the

Walloon
at your
''

guard,^^andsoap-boiler,
now

service."

You

speak the language

been

i. a """ of Spam

very

said I; imperfectly,"
you

"how

long

have
" "

in the country ?

Benedict ; replied Forty-five years,"

the

them

before.

He

was

great

but when
to

guardwas
where

broken I lost the

rip, 1

ra'^e,

to imprison me and threatened ; i told him he might, and that I cared

went

Minorca,

nish Spathe

language

without
a

accimrmg

not

myself

I was not going to expose of those three the resentment and to that of their friends ; I live too Good for that the Hay Market near

Vaya,
to

^^'?Y^u have been

of
"

soldierof the king

did you
-r

said I; Spain,"
Not
so

"how
,

like

the service ?"

n i well, but that I should have
i
^

day,

my

young

masters.

Murcian

gon's oranges, as you see ; the genuine draand cold. sweet blood. Water Those two boys are the children of Gahold, of the "l^eens housebiria,comptroller Madrid m and the richest man ;

been

glad

to

leave
now

it

fortyyears
the

the pay
worse.

was

bad, and
not

ago ; treatment

I will if I
am

for
are
a

German

speak Swiss to you, much mistaken, you and understand the man,
I should
soon

they
than
woman

are boys,and buy much It is said their father loves th"n

nice

fruit.
more

speech of Lucerne.
deserted from

have

all who

his

The possessions. yon money

has
me

old
tree

is lying beneath

is the TiaLuc'lla; she murders, and as she owes

committed
I

hope
man

one
was

day

to see

her

executed. This

the service of Spam as 1 did from that of the Pope, whose soldier before I came in my early youth, I was ol I had married a woman here ; but I had two children; Minorca, by whom those m this that detained me it was

Don

I lef long; before, however wife died, and as for m^ my This last-named personage instantly children, one went east, the other west, of them, not what became and I know a bulky engrossed ; he was my attention Lucerne to intend to return I shortly somewhat above the middle old man, duke." like and there a live lU live height, with white hair and ruddy features; Have his eyes were you, then realized a larg large and blue. of the Walloon guard-Senor parts so Minorca Benito Mol, how do you do .-'
LllCH^
ijii.-^
"" _

"

CHAP.

XIII.J

THE

BIBLE

IN be than
"

SPAIN.
found
a

81

in Spain?" capital his hat and

"

said I,
a

the rest of his

at glancing apparel. ; these two

in the

cathedrals

of

few

ornaments paltry

and

Spain plated

Not

cuart,
are

not

cuart

utensils."

wash-balls
"

all that I you

are

Perhaps

possess." of good the son

money
to

My
"

good
it is

German
no

church

nedict, Herr," said Beand no schatz,

parents, and have lands and country wherewith your own

in

support

yourself."
"

of save myself,knows person living, its existence : nearlythirty years ago, were amongst the sick soldiers who

Not
was

heller,not

father when
"

hangman

of

Lucerne,
was

heller ; my and

brought
comrades had he

to

Madrid,

was

one

of

of the Walloon

Guard,

my who

he

died, his body

seized to

accompanied the
w^as

pay his debts."

tend died. said I, " you inThen, doubtless," last, he to ply your trade of soap-boiling Lucerne. know
or no

tugal; French to Porand sick shortly very Before, however, he breathed his
sent

at

You of

are no

friend,I
"

quite right, my more occupation

honourable
I have
at now,

usefiil."
of plying my thoughts repliedBennet
"

his and me, upon that himself and two both of whom had since other soldiers, been killed,had buried in a certain for

death-bed told

me

church
;

trade " and

Lucerne,
as

which

see

I like your man, contained in a of speakand your manner Brazils ; the whole was ing, countenance I will tell you in confidence that I large copper kettle. I listened with know greedy ears, and from that moment, 1 very littleof my trade,and have Lieber

Herr,

you and

are
as

German

at Compostella a great booty ; it they had made in Portugal and of a consisted of gold moidores the from packet of huge diamonds

been already briquesas an wash-balls

are

turned

out

of several fa; the two

may

say, I have

known

no

rest,neither
the

evil workman I carry

by

day

nor

night,thinking of

that

in my

pocket

schatz.

It is very

was so making. Inhurtzen, dying man it lies, that than of the place where of soap-boiling I should horse I once or at Compostella, 1 do of tailoring, were farriery, hand in putting all of which I have pracmy shoe-making, tised." have no difficulty

not

1 know

of my own littlemore

easy to find,for the in his descripexact tion

"

Then

I know

not how

you

can

hope
ton, can-

upon it ; several times I have the of setting the point out on but

been

on

journey,
to

to live like

in your native a hertzog unless you expect that the men Lucerne, in consideration of your
to

somethinghas always happened

of
vices ser-

the

Pope

and

to

the in

will maintain Spain, you at the public expense."

"

King of splendour
"

wife died, I left When stop me. my Miuorca with a determination to go to Saint James, but on Madrid, reaching I fell into the hands who of done she
a

Basque
to

man, wo-

me persuaded

live with several says breathe and

Lieber of

men

Herr," said Benedict, the fond Lucerne are by no means

her, which

I is

have her

for will

the soldiers of the Pope maintaining of and the King pense Spain at their own exof
; many

a years ; she that if 1 desert a

great hax*,

of when

the

guard

wno

have

returned coach

thither drawn

beg

their bread

in the

streets, but
a

treasure, a
the church
"

I go, it shall be in by six mules, with a mighty schatz which lies in of Saint James of

for shall cling to me spell which is she Got noAv Vem ever. sey danh, and in the hospital, daily expected Lieber is This to die. history, my
"

Herr." I have have been the

more

careful
as

in

lating re-

Compos-

the above

conversation,
to

I shall the

in Galicia." tella, I

frequentoccasion

mention

of these journals ; hope you do not intend to rob the Swiss in the course "if adventures I were said his highly church," subsequent ; you do, however, I believe will be disappointed. and the closing one extraordinary, you Mendizabal and the liberals have been caused a great sensation in Spain. beforehand with you.
no

am

informed is to
*

that

at

present

other treasure

Witch.

Ger.

Hexe.

fi2

CHAPTER
State

XIV
"

of the Granja of Spain" Isturlts" Revolution Newspaper Reporters" Quesada's Onslaught The
"

The

Disturbance

"

Signs of

Mischief-

closingScene"

of Fliglit

the Moderadw

"The

Coffee

Bowl.

moderados

paying any Inquisicion. Poor Galiano stillproved himself satisfactory manner; pular unpoformed in unshaken but candidlyinand still more at ^Madrid, so friend, my in most that there was of Spain, the other large towns no me hope of of which been formed, my juntas had succeedingin the above quarter. The duke," said he, says that your which, taking the local administration the selves into their own be granted; and hands, declared themrequest cannot it other day, when I myself mentioned independentof the queen and
In the
mean

time

the

affairs of
a

the

I had

and received, visits at

forbore

did

not

proceedin they were

very

more

the Casa

de la

"

"

her
so

and ministers, that the

; the

refused to pay taxes government Avas within

to
was

;
a

in the coimcil,began to talk of the decision of Trent, and spoke of yourself as

a

short money
war

time

reduced

great straits for

fellow plaguy pestilent him

a

whereupou

army

unpaid,and

the

answered

with

some
a

acrimony,and
funcion between
"

laughed heartily. pushingit on with considerable vigour; By the by," continued he, what need of their guerillas which permission, parties scouringthe have you of a regular in whilst it that has all does a one not directions, large country appear any ? The best that division,under the celebrated Gomez, t o authority grant thing was making the entire circuit of Spain. you can do under all circumstances is
To
was
crown

the

the part of I mean on Christinos, for the Carlists were

languished ;

there ensued
us, at which

bit of

Isturitz

the

whole,
at

an

insurrection
to

to

daily expected
which
measure

Madrid,
were

vent pre-

the nationals tended

which

disarmed, creasedistribute greatly to insee

to the press, with that an understanding you shall not be interfered with when attempt to you

commit

the work

it.

advise strongly

their hatred

the moderado against it

to
was

Isturitz himself prepare will answer him

Quegovernment, and especially against sada, with

have lost my With
no

will and

you to I upon tliematter. for the interview, he receives you

whom

supposed to
own

that

originated.
respect
my

civilly."
matters, I
an

I shall content brevity saving that I found of Trent, and Council succeeded in him well disposed to favour perfectly all efforts. He appearedto views. lived I have baffling ray long in my have inoculated his principal with his England,"said he ; the Bible is free ideas upon this subject, for the and I see no reason own there, why it should when beheld he at his levees, not be free in Spain also. I am duke, me not prepared took no farther notice of me than by a to say that England is indebted for her contemptuous glance; and once, when prosperity to the knowledge I stepped ing wliich all her children,more or less, up for the purpose of addresstl rough a sideliim, disappeared Avritings possess of the sacred ; but of him for I door, and I never saw one again, thingI am sure, namely, that the witl^ the ti"eatment which was Bi])le has done no harm in that coundiijfrusted

of pushingforward opportunity the application; tary, Aragonese secrethe however, still harped upon

In fact, a few days afterwards, I had interview with Isturitz at tlie palace, for the sake of

and

myself

with
"

"

CHAP.

XIV.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

83

do I believe that it will effect distant from To Madrid. this place it, therefore, Spain; print by all the queen regent Christina had retired, and circulate it as extensivelyin order to be aloof from the discontent means, I retired, fied of the capital, and to enjoy rural air as possible." highly satiswith and amusements in this celebrated retained, interview,having obtreat, my if not a written permission of the taste and to monument a of the first Bourbon who printthe sacred volume, what, under magnificence all circumstances, I considered ascended the throne of Spain. Slie was as almost an to remain equivalent, understanding not, however, permitted long biblical pursuits that my would in tranquillity; be her own guards were tolerated in Spain; and I had fervent and more inclined to the disaffected, of the constitution of 1823 hope that whatever was the fate of the principles future one, parthan to those of absolute monarchy, no present ministry, ticularly liberal one, would which the moderados a venture were attempting to interfere with more especiallyto revive again in the government of me, the English ambassador was as Spain. Early one morning,a party of my and was all the these headed to friend, soldiers, privy steps by a certain I had taken the whole entered her apartthroughout Sergeant Garcia, ment, and affair. that she should proposed three thingsconnected with Two subscribe her hand to this constitution, or the above interview with Isturitz struck and swear solemnly to abide by it. remarkable. First me as beinghighly Christina, however, who was a woman with of all, the extreme which of considerable refused to comply facility spirit, I obtained admission to the presence of with this proposal, and ordered the prime minister of Spain. I had not them to withdraw. A scene of violence

tiy, nor
in

any

to wait,

or

indeed

to send at

in my
once

name,

and

tumult

ensued,but

tlie regent still

at

but

was

introduced

by

the

firm,the continuing

soldiers

length
of the folded. blind-

the air of loneliness led her down of the to one door-keeper. Secondly, which pervaded the place, so palace, where stood her unlike the bustle, noise,and Munos, bound activityparamour, which I observed In when this I for

courts

well-known and

waited
an

on

"Swear you

to

the

constitution,

Mendizabal.
were
no

there instance,

vociferated she-rogue,"
"

eager candidates

view inter-

sergeant.

Never

"

the said the

swarthy spirited

with the great man daughterof the NeapolitanBourbons. ; indeed, I " did not behold a single with Then shall die ! " replied individual, your cortejo " the exception of Isturitz and the official. the sergeant. Ho ! ho ! my l-ads; get But that which made the most profound ready your arms, and send four bullets

impression upon
the minister
sat entered, folded,and

me,

was

the

manner

of I
arms

through
was

himself, who, with upon a sofa,

his

when his
to

the fellow's brain." Mufios forthwith led to the wall, and compelled
to

kneel

ground.
extreme

When dark of

eyes he spoke there the

wore

directed

the
was

levelled their
moment

down, the muskets, and

soldiers another

in depression features he

tones
an

his voice,

of his air of all the

melancholy,and
appearance escape from
a

exhibited

the unfortunate consigned when tina, Chriseternity, t]\e forgetting every thing but of her woman's heart, feelings suddenly

would

have

Might to

to person meditating the miseries of this life by

"

started forward
:
"

with

ing exclaimshriek,

the most desperate of all acts suicide. The And that he had, the Pueita del Sol at about a few days showed noon. for much There is crowd there about indeed, cause ditation mea melancholy always week occurred this hour, but it is generally a : in less than a veiy the revolution of the Granja, as it is quiet motionless of crowd, consisting called. The is their o r listless idlers a G-ranja, Grange, calmly smoking the royal country seat, situated amongst or to or cigars, listening retailing the other side of the on in general very dull news of the pine forests, Guadavama about twelve leagues capital hills, ; but on the day of which I am
" "

I sign! " Hold, hold ! I sign, after I entered this event day

84 the speaking, There

was

THE

BIBLE

IN from

SPAIN.
the Puerta

CHAP.

XIV.

mass

was

no

longer inert.

del Sol in the direction

of the palace and vociferation, ; they might be about gesticulation and officer in an number, were twenty people head with a drawn their marched at la Viva conabout shouting, running sword ; the men appearedto have been Htitucion I a cry which, a few days of them collected in a hurry, many would have been visited on previously, with dress, foraging with death, the cityhaving being in fatigue the utterer On their heads. on to came, they been for some weeks subjected caps past ally I occasionof martial law. the rigour slowlymarching ; neither their officer paying the slightest heard the words, "Xa Granja! nor themselves the crowd the cries of to attention La Granja ! which words were sure which Viva thronged about them, shouting to be succeeded by the shout of save Long live the constitution ! la coiistitucion!" Oppositethe Casa and except by an occasional surlyside line in drawn a de Postas were up with tracted consome about a dozen mounted glance: on they marched dragoons, and brows set teeth,till they of whom were waving their continually in front of the cavalry,where came mon caps in the air and joiningthe comraged encouthey halted and drew up in rank. they were cry, in which much and several
"
"
"

"

"

"

"

by
young sword, and with

their

commander,
than
"

some handhis

who officer,
more

flourished

Those men I to my friend D

"

mean
,

mischief," said
of the
'

Morning

great glee, Long

queen !
"

this moment joined cried out Chronicle,'who once " that if they and depend upon it, live the constitutional me
at

firing, they will commence they hit, but ! caring nothing whom fellows behind those cavalry what can crowd The was rapidlyincreasing, of the who them are their apevidently and several nationals made mean, pearance their other opinionby out shouting in their vmiforms, but with; why this handful don't they charge at once their arms, of which they had been them? already stated. of foot people and overturn deprived,as I have Long
live the
stitution conare

ordered

"

"

What

has

become
"

of the

moderado

Once from You

down,
them
are a

the

crowd muskets

would in
a

wrest

government ?
I dressed
as

observed amongst suddenly

when
"

said I to Baltasar,whom the crowd, I had first

seen

their

moment.
am

liberal,which

not

him,

in his old regimentalgreat coat and have the ministers foraging cap ; been deposedand others put in their ? place said the little Not yet, Don Jorge,"
"

young why do you not go to that silly the horse and give who commands man him a word of counsel in time ? his broad turned upon me D
"

red much

"

nance^ good-humoured English countearch look, as with a peculiarly

as

soldier-tailor ; " not yet ; the scoundrels the brute bull stillhold out, relying on still who Quesada and a few infantry, continue
true to

them the

; but there

is

no

gentle applicable, then takingme by the arni, reader), Let us get," said he, out of this
you
" "

to say, think most

ever (what-

fear, Don
thanks make
to

Jorge ;
the

Garcia, and
his

bull ho ! ho ! Don appearance Jorge,you shall see something I am and thereupon for him, ho ! ho ! T)repared his lie half opened great coat, and
" "

courage if the brute

is ours, queen friend of my should

crowd where
to

and I
can

mount

to

some

window,
is about

write

down

what

for I agree with you that place, the Just opposite mischief is meant." in the a house, was most toplarge post-office take

"

story of which
were

we

importing displayed,
to

beheld a paper that apartments

we

showed

me

a a

small wink

beneath
away

it in
a

gun which and then sling, and

a

he bore

let;whereupon
the
common

instantly

moving

ascended for the

with

nod. smojl

peared agreedwith disapuse

and having stair, the mistress of the etagt of the the front
room

amongst

the crowd.
a

for th" the

r"

Presently I
of soldiers
or

Mayor,

perceived advancmg np the street which principal

body
Calle
runs

day.

Me

bolted

door, and

anc porter,producing his pocket-book take not":s of to tb prepared pencil,

CHAP.

XIV.

THE

BIBLE

IN
calm who

SPAIN.
and but motionless, I

S."!

were already coming events, which their shadow before. casting men What are most extraordinary

observed officer

that the

with cavalry,

the young

commanded

in geneconfusion and these reporters of newspapers ral, hurried words ; all of I mean English newspapers ! each other some viduals a sudden that part of the crowd which Surely if there be any class of indithe mouth entitled to the appelwho of the Calle de are lation stood near it is these ; who Carretas fell back in great disorder, of cosmopolites, their avocation in all countries selves themand accommodate indiiferently,

them, displayedboth fear, exchanging with

pursue

leaving a considerable
and in mounted his the
next

space

pied, unoccu-

moment

Quesada,
and

at

will

to

the

manners

of

all

complete general'suniform,
on a a

fluency of writers is as onlysurpassedby style of language in conversatheir facility tion,

classes of
: society

their

bright bay thorough-bred

drawn sMord

English horse,with
hand, dashed
in much
seen
a

in
I

at

full
same

gallopinto the
manner as

and and

their attainments

in classical their profound

area,

the

only by Manchegan when the gates of his acquired the amphitheatre knowledgeof the M-orld, its into ling bustintroduction pen are suddenlyflungopen. by an early He The was scenes. acti\dty, closelyfollowed by two energy, and mounted and at a short distance which officers, display theyoccasionally courage of information, in the pursuit are truly by as many dragoons. In almost them I saw remarkable. during the less time than is sufficient to relate it, several individuals in the crowd were naille three days at Paris, mingled with cadown and laysprawling and gamins behind the barriers, knocked upon whilst the mitraille was sada flyingin all the ground,beneath the horses of Quecuirassiers and his two and the desperate friends,for as to the directions, were dashingtheir fierce horses against dragoons,they halted as soon as they There del Sol. It had entered the Puerta feeble bulwarks. these seemingly their tions observafine three down a see stood they, to was by men, sight dotting dint of valour and good horsemanship, in their pocket-books as cernedly unconinto at least as the proceedings strike terror as if reporting many thousands : I saw of a reform meeting in Covent Garden Quesada spur his into the dense masses or FinsburySquare; whilst in Spain, horse repeatedly self several of them accompaniedthe Carlist of the crowd, and then extricate himThe in some of their in the most masterly and Christino guerillas manner. and raids and rabble were most awed, expeditions, completely gave desperate by the Calle del Comercio exposing themselves to the danger of way, retiring ter, All at once, of winhostile bullets, the inclemency and the street of Alcala. who the and the fierce heat of out two nationals, summer Quesada singled and to escape, sun. were setting attempting in a them been five minutes at We had scarcely spurs to his horse, turned in another and drove them the window, when we moment, suddenlyheard the clattering of horses' feet hastening direction, strikingthem in a contemptuous
bull down the
street

literature polite

have

rush

into

called

the

Calle
we

de had the this into came beHe

manner was

with !
"

the flat of his sabre.

"

Carretas.
stationed

The

house

in which
as

crying out,

Long
the

live

the

ourselves

was,

I have which north sounds

ready absolute alme,

observed, just oppositeto

at the post-office,

queen amidst a had

when, just beneath

crowd its ground, of having the means gun
was a

portionof
not
a

left of from
:

which

still maintained small

street

debouches louder and

the the

perhaps from
I escaping,
a saw

the the

Puerta crowd all

del Sol

as

for glitter
port, shaq) re-

louder, the cries of below diminished, and a

to

moment,
and
to
a

there bullet had

then

nearlysent

sada Que-

of species upon could

:

panic seemed
once or

have
"

fallen
near as

his

twice, however, I

to the to graze

long account, passing so of the general countenance

I had of
a an

the words distinguish

Quesada

his hat.
a

indistinct

Quesada ! "

The

foot

soldiers stood

view

for

momeut

well-known

86

THE the of the

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

XIV.

foi'aging cap just about

whence then and which As the with about the the there guu
was a

spot from

save politics

Gypsy politics ; and

side with the
event

it is

had

been

discharged, well known

the he

the that, duringelections, both ties paras

rush

crowd,
was,
caped es-

children of Eoma
so

shooter,-whoever

amidst discovery
arose.

confusion
to treat

for

Quesada,
from

he

seemed
he had He

doubtful, long and then to success each; promising is done, and the battle the fight when in themselves invariably won, range
the ranks that of the victorious. I wished well
to

is

danger
him

which

the utmost

contempt.
a

escaped glared
then

But

peat re-

Quesada,

for fiercely

moment,

the two nationals, who sneaked leaving like he went hounds, whipped away officer who up to the young had the cavalry, and who in and with the raising
to
an

commanded been few active words

I did,his stout heart and as witnessing, was good horsemanship. Tranquillity the rerestored to ^Madrid throughout mainder fantry of the day ; the handful of inbivouacked No
more were

in the heard

Puerta the
to

del

him

cry of the he addressed

menace

Sol. constitution,
a

cries of long live the

; and
lution revo-

constitution been

air of stern
in

before e\'idently quailed obedience command

to

; the youth him, and probably

signed orders, re-

in the

seemed capital

have

his

It is proeffectually put down. bable, had the chiefs of the that indeed,

the rode and mien

slowlyaway
walked which

of the party, and with a discomfited dismounted and wards fora

moderado themselves their

cause

party but continuedfor hours forty-eight have would

true

to

air; whereupon Quesada

slowlybackwards
seemed the
to

before the Casa de Postas with bid

defiance to
of

longer, and triumphed, the revolutionary soldiers at the Granja would have been glad to restore the and to have Queen Regent to liberty,
come

mankind.
This
was

to

terms,

as

it was

well known

that
^

da's existence, his

I call it the
never certainly

Quesaglorious day and last day. loyal, were glorious marching upon Madrid, j of his for he The not day moderados, however, were glory, before appearedunder true to themselves; that very night\
several who regiments, and circvunstauces,
see

still continued

such
never

brilliant

he No

hero or on conqueror is be with this to record, compared of the life of Quesada, for scene closing

lived to action of any

another

sun

set.

their hearts failed them, and they fled in various directions. Isturitz and Galiano to France
to ; and

the Duke

of Rivas leagues col-

Gibraltar
even

the

panic

of his

infected Quesada, who,

a

who, by
and did back
a

singledesperate courage before stopped a ever impetuosity,

in full entire course? revolution

his

as disguised

took civilian,

to

flight.

revolution
:

Quesada
at

he for the

stoppedthe
one

drid Ma-

day, and

brought

not, however, so successful as the rest,but was at a village recognised about three leagues from Madrid, and friends of cast into the prison by some
He
was

of uproarious and hostile mob of the constitution. Intelligence transmitted huge cityto perfectorder and quiet. cap^are was instantly burst
most

his
to
tionals, na-

His the

into the Puerta tremendous and

del

Sol

was

the

and capital,
some on

vast

mob

of the
on

successful
"

foot, some

back, horse-

pieceof
bull
"

mired daring ever witnessed. I adthe spirit of the brute so much that I frequently, duringhis wild
"

and
set out.

others in cabriolets, instantly '* The nationals are coming,"

"

said said

paisanoto Quesada.
"

Then,"

" Viva Quesada ! onset, shouted Not that I am I wished him well.

for of

he,

am

lost," and
for death.

forthwith in

himself prepared There is

a

party or system. No, no I aiuj political I have lived too long with Eommany
Chals
*

celebrated

coffee-house

and

* Petulengres

to

be of any
Greek literal

the Calle d'Alcala, at Madrid, capable of holding several hundred individuals. On the

compound and the Tv'iTaKou.

A

of

the

modern

eveningof
"The

the

day
an

in

question

Sanscrit

hara, the

meaning hein"{ I.wd of the horse-shoe (i.e. of the private cognomimaker) ; it is one

i-atinnsof clan.

Smiths,"

ErglishGvpsj

CHAPTER

XV.

nio
"

Steamer Italica"

"

Cape
The

Finisterre"
"

The The

Storm

"

Arrival
"

at

Cadiz

"

The
"

New Baron

Testament

"

SevilU Street

Arapliitheatre

Prisoners

The

Encounter

Taylor"

The

and

Desert.

At

the

cominencement

of

November
salt water, returned had the in of
events

the

rocky
was

coast

to

the here

north

of

Cape
that captain had he

again
on

to

myself on to Spain. I way my England shortly after

have for been the

found

the

Finisterre.
this the

I must

observe,
that the the vessel

first voyage board

or

who
ever

commanded
on

which

narrated
purpose for

the

last

made

of her, and of the

that

consulting planning the opening of a biblical campaign in Spain. determined It was now by us to print little delay with the New as Testament, and I was to be at Madrid as possible, ; chapter,
my witli

knew towards

little

nothing
we were

coast

friends, and

entrusted task of

with its

the

somewhat

arduous

distribution.
very I was

My
to

stay
time
return
was

in

England was precious, and

the I embarked

short, for
eager

bearing. He a was a picked up hurry, the person former captain having resigned his command the on ground that the ship not gines was seaworthy, and that the enI were frequently unserviceable. stances circumwith these not was acquainted at the time, or perhaps I should
Avhich in have when felt I
saw

to

more

alarmed
the vessel the
a

than

did,
at

field of action. in the

steamer.

approaching
shore,
hundred
till

Thames,
We
to

on

board
a

nearer

and
we

nearer

the M

had

m.ost

last

were

only
As

few

yards
I felt

unpleasant

passage

Falmouth passengers,

the

distant.

it was,

however,

ship
of

was

crowded
were

with

them

and the
to

consumptive poor other invalids fleeingfrom

of shores
a

surprised; for having passed very much in steamtimes viduals, it twice indibefore, both
most

cold

blasts

the sunny ISIadeira. In

England's winter of Portugal and

uncomfortable
steam to

more

vessel, especially
never

ship,
make and
a

it

has

been berths

my
were

fate

voyage. holes the

rest

having seen with what care maintain to a captainsendeavoured the conceive wide not offing,I could this of our near so reason being now wind The was dangerous region. the shore, if that blowing hard towards
vessels, and
the
can

The

small of these the

insupport-

be

called

shore

which

consists

of

ably close,
mine
was

and

wretched

amongst
so

worst,
before avoid
to

having
on

been
;

bespoken
that,
seemed
to

I the

arrived cation suffome,

board

which should of
one

threaten the

I enter of the We

it, I lay upon

cabins

floor the

the precipices,on which noise of with the surf was breaking thunder, tossing up clouds of spray and We foam to the height of a cathedral. several coasted rounding slowly along, of them tall forelands, some piled up by

steep abrupt

throughout
at

the hand

of nature About
not

in the

most

fantastic terre Finisa

voyage.

remained

Falmouth coal had and

tained sus-

shapes.
was

nightfall Cape
far

hours, taking t'.venty-four repairing the engine, which

ci

in

a-head,

"

bluff,
ing frownthose

brown,
head who which

granite momitain,
may be the
seen

whose

nsiderable
the

damage.
7th,
we

On and
sea

Monday,
made

for the

Bay
the

of

again started, Biscay. The

strong
the in and
on

traverse

far away The ocean. its breast

by
was

stream rific, ter-

was

high,
;

and

wind

and all way.

poured round though our

force,
we

engines
made

plied with
or no

contrary
of Ihe

nevertheless,

fourth

day,

we

were

morning sight of

their

little

CHAP.

X-"',]
about had

THE
at

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
of the elements

89

By
wind

eighto'clock
increased
to
a

night tlie

horrid convulsion The mantle

took
as

thunder

rolled
we

the hurricane, and the only frightfully, had red times clouds We

place.
with
a

lightning envelopedus

lightwhich
way which
was

the
at

louder were ; the thunders than the roar of a million cannon; th" to guide us on our forked lightning,dregsof the ocean seemed to be cast up, from which
were

burst

the bosom

of the
over

big black
heads.
to

our

in the midst of all this turmoil, the wind, without the slightest intimation, about, and pushed us from exerting vicred ripht lowered the the the horrible
coast
us

and

ourselves cape,

descry by quently The oldest sailors on board its brow being freledged acknowon our lee, lightning had the that witnessed never so they lightedup by brilliantly when I from a n flashes which quiveredaroimd it, said, providential escape. of my with a great crash,the engine the bottom heart, Our Father suddenly, hallowed which pended debe thy name." on broke, and the paddles, The ceased next ing, founderto near our day we were lives, play. the scene for the sea was I will not attempt to depict exceedingly high,
-which
"
"

the utmost could we

to

weather

faster

than it.

it had

driven previously

towards

of horror

and

confiision which
never

ensued ;
described.

and for

our

vessel,which
The

was

not

intended

it may
The

but be imagined,

laboured sailing,

and leaked terribly,

to give him captain,

his

played much. due, dispidity: intremade

gine, en-

the utmost he the and the

coolness whole
to

and
crew

working. She
the flames
were

were contiiuially pumps likewise took fire, but

In extinguished.

the

was eveningthe steam-engine partially and we reached Lisbon on the and when repaired, they found their labour the in vain, endeavoured, by hoisting 13th,where in a few days we completed all possible our and sails, repairs. by practising I found the ship from to preserve manoeuvres, my excellent friend W impending destruction ; but all w^as of in good health. During my absence hard on a lee shore, he had been doing everythingin his were no avail,we pelling imfurther the sale of the sacred to the howling tempest was to which power dein Portuguese this time I was volume About us. : his zeal and votedness admirable. and I asked The the were near helm, quite standing distracted state of the country, however, if there was the steersman any hope of lives. He the plied, reour or vessel, during the last six months, had sadly saving boat no Sir, it is a bad aifair, impeded his efforts. The minds of the with policould live for a minute in this sea, and tics, peoplehad been so engrossed in less than an hour the shipwill have that they found scarcely any time

greatest exertions

repairthe

"

her

broadside
to

on

where Finisteri-e,
ever
"

the
must

to

think

of the

welfare

of their souls.

strongest man-of-war
go
see

built of
us

The

of political history
a

Portugal had

of

shivers

the

instantly morning." The

the the other
same

none

Avill in

late afforded of the

a

to that striking parallel

wise captainlikepassengers

informed
the them cabin
to

neighbouring country. for supremacy had struggle

the
court

In both arisen

effect,telling between
; and having ened, to be fast-

and

the

democratic

to prepare

themselves
to be

party ; in both the latter had triumphed,

whilst had
two

done so, he ordered

and

individuals distinguished sacrifice the none a to permittedto come popular deck. I hoAvever and Qucsada on kept my station, fury Freire in Portugal, with in Spain. The which reached news though almost drowned water, immense waves continually breaking me at Lisbon from the latter country windward horries of rather startling. our The over side,and flooding was the ship. The water-casks broke from Gomez were Andalusia, which ravaging their lashings, and one of them struck I was about to visit on to way my fallen
"

the door

me

down,

and
man

crushed
at

the the

foot of the the

Madrid

Cordova
a

had

been

sacked

and

unfortunate
was place

helm, whose

abandoned, after

three

days' occupation
was

taken by instantly
now

captain.
if I

by

the Cai'lists. I my

told that
to

We

were

close to the rocks, when

in persisted

attempt

enter

00

THE iu the direction which

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XV.

He said that botli the type and I proposed, Cadiz. but fall into their were beautifiil, exceedingly probably paper that it was work hands not a at Se^'ille. I had, however, no after, sought I did not purand very little known. fears, and had full confidence that the sue

Spain

I should

Lord The

would

open the

path before

me

to

Madrid. vessel and

in other shops,for 1 inquiries my reflected that I was not likely to receive a booksellers

embarked,

from we being repaired, again verj' favourable opinion in in two a publication days arrived in respecting found
;
numerous

which

they
but ment Testaplied supan

safetyat Cadiz, I there reigning

of the factious
were

great

fusion con-

liad
two

no or

interest. I had, moreover,

three with
me,

bands

copiesof
and had the the

the New
not

hovering in
attack the
state
was

the

not

reported to be neighbourhood. An deemed and improbable,

just been
took declared in
a

could

have

them,
order.

they even
24th small

givenme

place
of

had

Early
"

on

I embarked

for

Spanish steamer up my The Betis." The the P'rench hotel,in the Calle de la morning was wet, and the aspect of nature allotted a species of was Niveria, and was enveloped or cockloft, preventedmy garret, to sleep in, for the in a dense mist, which filled with guests, being a house was observingsurroundingobjects.After reached about six leagues, of the we place of much resort, on account proceeding of the Bay is kept the north-eastern excellent talile d'hote which extremity of Cadiz, and passedby Saint Lucar, there. I dressed myself,and walked siege. I
abode
at

in Seville,

about
was

the

town.
:

coffee-houses

I entered several the din of tongues in all

an

ancient

town

near

to

the spot where

the

orators

deafening. In one no less than six wore haranguing at the same

on

time the

the

state

of the

country, and

intervention of an on probability As I the part of England and France. entered the mouth of denly stupor. We of them, he sudThe to one "was listening that is the called upon for my opinion, Great River," for me English the and seemingly al Kiber, as a foreigner, as I was just translation of Oued Moors the ancient Betis. arrived. I repliedthat I could not designated
"

Guadalquivir disembogues itself. and the The mist suddenly disappeared, liancy, of Spain burst forth in full brilsun all around, and parenlivening ticularly who had tillthen been myself, lyingon the deck in a dull melancholy

steps the two guess what under the governments would pursue but thoughtthat present circumstances,
venture

to

We
at
a

came

to

anchor

for

few

minutes
the

little village called

we

Bonan9a, at
of the

of the firstreach extremity where and much received several

river,
is not

it would would less

on

be

as

well As

if the
more,

Spaniards
and wish call
to

passengers,

exert

themselves

again proceeded.

There

Jupiter,
in any

I did

not

engage

I conversation, political and the house, quitted instantly sought those parts of the town where classes principally reside. I entered into discourse found read them
or

quivir in the appearance of the Guadalinterest traveller the the to : bajiks are destitute of and low, trees, the blue

the lower several

adjacent country
distance is The
seen

is
a

and flat,

only

in the

with

sierras. of

water

range of tall is turbid and

but individuals,
;
none

very

rant muddy, igno-

and in colour
a

could

write, and

the contents

closely resembling duck-pool ; the average

'

is from a hundred were respecting religion thing width of the stream anyhundred but it and to most two yards, fifty satisfactory professing this river indifference. afterwards is to I move a along impossible perfect it has that borne without into a bookseller's shop, and made went remembering the Roman, the Vandal, and the Arab, the demand for inquiries respecting their ideas but
"

which literature, Bmall. the asked

a

he
a

informed

me

was

and have been

has been

the witness of deeds which

produced
Testament

London
in

edition of he

resounded the themes

throughthe world, and

of immortal and till songs.
we

New

Spanish, and

the bookseller

whether

book of that

would description

Latin verses thought repeated old Spanish ballads sell iu

of fragments

reached

CHAP,

XV.

J
about

THE
niue o'clock of
a

BIBLE

IN On

SPAIN.
the

91

at Seville,

lovely

rightside

of the

river

is

OQOOulight night.

large suburb, called

Triana,

cating communi-

Seville contains ninety thousand inwith Seville by means of a and is situated on the eastern haliitants, of for there is boats no bridge ; per bank of the Guadalquivir, about eighteen mauent bridgeacross the Guadalquivir, rounded leagues from its mouth ; it is surowing to the violent inundations to with high Moorish walls,in a which it is subject. This suburb is of and of built inhabited state the the of good preservation, dregs by populace, such durable materials that it is probable and abounds with Gitanos or Gypsies. centuries still bid will for many About and a half to the northwest a league the}' iefiance to the encroachments of time. stands the village of Santo Ponce : The
most

remarkable and

edifices of the the

are

the

at the foot and

on

the side of
are

some

vated eleseen

athedral Moorish called La :"fthe be

or alcazar,

palaceof the period

which

ground higher up
ruined formed which its name. fine walls
once

to be

kings;

the tower and formed

:

of former, vestiges

and

edifices,
jan, Tra-

to Giralda,belongs

the part of Italica, Triana

Moors, srand mosque of Seville

to
one

part of the it is computed

and height, is

of Silius Italicus and birth-place from derives One latter personage I walked the I

hundred
not

ells in stairs

ascended

or by of pathway,in the manner by a is inclined an by no plane: this path Dieans steep, so that a cavalier might

ladders,but

vaulted

morning and, havingascended

my course what had

thither, I directed hill,

soon

northward.
once

reached

ride up

to

the top,

feat which is said from

to

dinand Ferhave
mit sum-

the

Seventh

The accomplished. lear

view

the

is very extensive,and on a fine day the mountain ridgecalled the Eonda be may of twenty

bagnios ; and a little farther on, in a kind of valley, between the amphitheatre. two gentle declivities, is by far the most conThis latter object siderable relic of ancient Italica; it is
been oval in its form,
east

with

two

gateways

Sierra de
The

the discovered, fronting

and west.

tant. disOn all sides are to be seen the time leagues itself is a noble broken worn granite benches, from Gothic structure, reputed the finest of whence myriads of hviman beingsonce in Spain. In the chapels gazed down the kind the area on below, where allotted to the various saints are some the gladiator shouted,and the lion and which of the most magnificent the leopard : all around, beneath paintings yelled of benches,are vaulted excavations Spanish art has produced; indeed the these flights

though upwards

cathedral

the combatants, Cathedral of Seville is at the present from whence darted forth by rich in splendid time for more human, bestial, ings paintpart part than at any former their several doors. I period,posspent many hours sessing removed in this place, recently forcingmy way singular many very and brushwood from some of the suppressed the wild fennel convents, through fi'om particularly the

Capuchin

and

San Francisco. visit Seville witliout zar, attention to the Alcapayingparticular

No
one

shovdd

that

splendidspecimen of

Moorish

hissings I I heard. sated Having my curiosity, left the ruins, and, i-eturning by another cass laythe carway, reached a placewhere

into the caverns, and other

now

the haunts

ders of ad-

whose reptiles,

architecture.

of a horse half devoured It contains many ficent magni; upon it, that the with of lustrous stood bassadors, aman enormous halls, particularly eyes, which is in every so who, as I approached, called, vulture, slowly the eastsoared aloft tillhe alighted than the one ern on magnificent respectmore of the bra
same

name

within

the

Alhamwas
a

gate of
whence that

the

from amphitheatre,
a

of Granada.

This

palace

he uttered I had
not

hoarse

cry,

as

if in from

favourite residence of Peter the Cruel, it without alterwho carefully ing repaired character and appearits Moorish ance.
remains It'probably
6ame

anger his feast of carrion. Gomez

to to

disturbed him
hitherto

had
:

paid a visit
he

in much

the

Seville

when

state

as

at the

time of his death.

be in the

said was of Ronda. neighbourhood

I arrived

9-2

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
at

[chap. x\.
he observed that
pies co-

The citywas under watch and ward : several gates had been blocked up with trenches dug, and redoubts masonry,

Madrid,

erected;but I place would not

am

convinced

that the

againsta proved himself

in this place. shop of my own occasion raltar, nary extraordito go to Giba most having and his of with I several small army of man procured copies the ; and seized it within is the : some, Aragonese Basqueshad, Scriptures true, were hist four mojiths, the made the tour of Spain. by the officers of the customs but ; He had very frequently and with hemmed I sold been at a high price, rest in by forces three times the number of considerable profit to myself." small Once
to

held out six hours resolute attack. Gomez had be

have

ment
of the

work might be extensively " circulated in Andalusia. I have been

accustomed
"

to

and

he continued bookselling," time at one a possessed

his own,
baffled his

in

places whence
he

impossible ; but
enemies,whom
The
most

in the I had returned from a walk escape appeared had always country, on a ing mornglorious sunsliiny he seemed
accounts to

laugh at.
victories

absurd

of

Andalusian winter,and directing steps towards my my

of the I
: a as

was

ing lodg-

gained over him were from the press at issuing

others,it
been
was

nually contiSeville ;

was

passingby

the

portalof

amongst
army
were

stated that his

the gate of largegloomy house near dressed in eaXeres, two individuals,

had

killed,and that twelve

on

himself defeated, utterly hundred ers prisonto Seville.

marras,

their way

saw

these

I saw him first at Bayonne ; then the brick beneath long subsequently keep up with the army, had been picked wall at Novogorod; then beside the in the plains and amongst Bosphorus; and last at at Oh, my up straggling
as

dred hun: instead of twelve prisoners desperadoes, theyconsisted of about twenty poor, lame, ragged wretches, of them many boys from fourteen to sixteen years of age. dently eviThey were

archway, when | path, face, suddenly one, looking in my started back, exclaimingin the purest
and
were

emerged
about

from

the

to

cross

my

and most melodious French : " What do I see ? If my eyes do not deceive it is himself. me Yes, the very same
"
"

who, camp-followers,

unable

to

"

"

the hills. It Gomez how

and respectable
no

cherisiied last the

where friend, of seeing felicity and

most
r(

subsequently appearedthat
occurred, and
was a

tle batof fect de-

was

it that I had

had

that the death The

fiction.

grand

your markable

well-remembered

physiognomy ?"
"

of Gomez
to

consisted in not take advantage of after

knowing
stances: circumhe

It was 3It/self.

in the south
not.

of it the

Ire4
not!'
cerer sor-

land, if I mistake

Was
to

defeating Lope;^,

there that I introduced

you

horses by who tamed and the savage to Madrid might have marched Carlos there; and a proclaimed Don singlewhisper into their ear ? But \ after sacking Cordova he might have tell me what brings you to Spain and) | Seville. where I shouldl Andalusia,the last place captured There were several booksellers' shops have expected to find you ?
at

in Seville, had
about

two

of which Testament obtained

years

I found in from been other. and

pies co-

Baron
most

Taylor. And
"

wherefore,my;
?
arts ; and

of the New which which

one

Spanish,
raltar Gibsold in The
me

B respectable the land has

*****

been
two

Spain
which
ments

of the

Is not is not

before, since

Andalusia

time who

six

copieshad
in the the
an

shop and
walks

four about

person in my who
m

accompanied generally
town

tion ?
to

of all Spain that portion^ produced the noblest monu-i of artistic excellence and inspira-i Surelyyou know enough of me' that the
arts
are

the

be

aware

my
to

sion pasgaze 0 soul

was neighbourhood,

Genoese, elderly
of valet de

officiated the Posada up

me

as

kind

place

taken fi'om

my that it
an

del Turco, where I had residence. On learning

was

; that I am exalted a more in adoration on

come

of imagining incapable

enjoyment
a

than
have

noble
too

picture.
a

with exalted

me

! for you
a

my

intention

to

whatcapableof appreciating and

;

is

lovely!
sensi-

bringout

edition of the New

Testa-

soul delicate and

CUAP.

XV.]
Come
a

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

93

tive.
you first

with
such
to

me,
as

and

will

show liut

tion and

naturally
manner.

created
Who

by
he

his

appearance
one

Murillo,
me

is, no

tends pre-

allow

introduce

you

to

your
uess
: a

to

assert

dear Monsieur W., compatriot. My (an English turning to his companion and from his from whom gentleman, bounded experienced unfamily I subsequently and kindness hospitality on various
at to

it

is of

downright whispered, however, royalty

upon
most

with

positivethat
can

he

is for

scion
a

and

who
most

gaze

moment

that

figure, that
moulded

intelligent
countenance,
eyes,

but

graceful larly singuthose ing feel-

and without that he he

occasions,

and

at
me

dift'erent
to

riods pe-

large
as no common

and

expressive

Seville), allow
my
most
one

introduce

you

cherished who is better than

one

and

able respectChef
is
an

common

equally convinced lineage,

man? and have

is of
i"
no

as

that

friend,
with

acquainted
des
pert ex-

Though
eloquence
enabled him in

possessed
which
to

of

Gypsy
a

ways

the who

talents

would

Bohemieus

Triana,
and

speedily
an

attain

to

whisperer
who,
hammer with the In formed
*o

horse-sorcerer I and say

and

illustrious

position
and with

th-e

state, he
tented con-

his and the

honour

it, can
a

wield shoe horse-

has

hitherto,
himself

perhaps

wisely,
to

tongs,
best

handle smiths

comparative
himself of
a

scurity, obthe of

of the

amongst

chiefly devoting study

of of the which
arts

Alpujarras
the
course

of

Granada,
of my travels I and
more

and is

literature,
bounteous

have
quaintances ac-

both

he

most

various
;
me

friendships
but
no one

patron.
He

has

rested intethere

has, by
said

notwithstanding,
the
to

been
to
more

ployed em-

than for and

Baron whom

Taylor,
I entertain

and
a

illustrious
be related

house iu

which than both his

is

no

one

greater

he
one

is

esteem

mental order

To regard. accomplishments he
to

personal and of the highest

of which
to

delicate the East have

and and

important
the

mission,
in been He which

in

West,

unites be
met

kindness

heart is

efforts with

uniformly

crowned
was
now

rarely

with,
him

and

continually inducing opportunities of doing

and their of

seek

good to his contributing

no

success. complete collecting masterpieces low-creatures, felschool of painting, which

for

of

the
were

Spanish
destined

to

to

adorn He has
;
we

the

saloons
most

of

the

Tuilleries,
of the

happiness
has life in

;
seen

perhaps
more

person
the world

in

visited
it is

portions

existence
and

of

earth that each

and
are

remarkable

self phases than himHis are maimers naturally to the less highest degree courtly, yet he neverthea so disposition pliable possesses that he finds himself "in consequence favourite. about
serves
no

its various

continually
in

enough encountering
and under he
or

other

strange
whether

places
in the
or

singular
descries the

circumstances.
me,

Whenever
street

in difficulty
to

dating accommo-

desert,

the

brilliant
at

hall

amongst
or

all

kinds which

of he is
a

company, is
a

Bedouin

haimas,

Novogorod
arms

Stam-

of

versal uni-

bul, he
"

flings up
! I have my
* * *

his

and the
most

exclaims,

There wherever
to

mystery
he goes,
sensa=-

ciel

again
and

felicity of
respectar

him,
not
a

which,
little

seeing
ble B

cherished
*

inci'ease the

*."

94

CHAPTER Departurefor
Opinions.
After
at

XVI.
Colonies
Advice

Cordova
"

"

Carmona" Landlord

German
"

"

Language
Gomel
"

"

'Hie

SluggishHorse
Genoese
"

"

turnal NocTwo

Welcome

Carlist

Good

"

The

Old

The

sojournof about fourteen days for Cordova. The 1 departed Seville,

a

time past ceased had for some almost diligence of towns running, owing to the distiirbed state therefore no Sierra source rethe province. I had back. but to proceed thither on horseMorena, which divides Andalvisia fi'om of horses, and La Mancha, few and far between, I hired a couple are I and even of these several date from the engaged the old Genoese, of whom middle of the last century, when had occasion to speak,to have an already far as Cordova, and to attend me as attempt was made by a Spanishminister dren to people this wilderness with the chilwe Notwithstanding bringthem back. of a foreign land. in the depthsof winter, the were now arrived at a the days sunny At about weather was beautiful, midday we and brilliant, place called Moncloa, which consisted though the nightswere fice ediWe rather keen. passedby the little of a venta, and a desolate-looking which had of Alcala, celebrated for the ruins town something of the appearance Moorish of a chateau : a solitary immense of an castle,which palm stand on a rocky hill, overhanging a tree raised its head over the outer wall. first nightwe We entered the venta, tied our horses river. The picturesque Moorish and to the manger, having ordered slept at Carmona, another

but whicli became smiling garden, it now is on the expulsion of the from Spain, drained when it was of its population.The entirely and villages from hence to the

what Moors

town, distant about

Seville.

seven

leaguesfrom

barley for them,

we

sat

down

before

Early in the

mounted
whole the of

Moorish

in the middle which burned morning we again largefire, of the venta. The host and hostess and departed. Perhaps in the and beside us. sat down Spain there is scarcelya finer also came than of antiquity monument They are evil people," said the old
"

eastern

side of

this town

of Carmona, brow
an

Genoese
an

to

me

in

Italian,

"

and

this is

which

the occupies frowns

over

of
sive exten-

hill,and lofty
vega
or

; it is a harbouring place for thieves, and murders have been committed

evil house

which plain, brushwood

extends and

for looked

here,
at
were

if all tales be
two

true."

and unplanted leagues

uncultivated, ducing proca-

these both about short

people attentively ;
the parently apof age. dently churl, evitures feaa
man

nothingbut
rasco.

they
was

young,

Here

rise tall and

dusky walls,
a

twenty-five years
thicli-made

with of
so

at short distances, He square towers massive that they structure a

seem

of
were

prodigious strength ; his

rather handsome, but with and the tooth of time and his eyes were gloomy expression, This towni, in the time of the INIoors, full of sullen fire. His wife somewhat considered the key to Seville, and resembled was him, but had a countenance

would

to

bid defiance

alike to the hand of man.

did

till after

tempered; but siege: long desperate singularin the the capture of Seville followed speedily connexion with these people, was which colour of their hair and complexion: after. The vega upon we now entered forms a part of the grand despo- the latter was fair and ruddy, and tlie former blado ^s desert of Andalusia, once of a bright auburn, both in a
net to
arms more a

submit

the

Christian

and

what

and open struck me

better
as

most

96

THE

BIBLE

IN and
"

SPAIN. shouted.
At last what and I the
some

fCHAP. X"
one we

the

descending luminarywere resting.As in wliich we were neigliboui-hood

the account infested with guide, generally
was,
to
we

from

within

inquired
"

wanted.

according
our

of my

robbers,
to

we

used

best endeavours in.

We

reach have
ceed, suc-

Open the door replied. thing,"answered

within,
" "

will you shall do no individual who you

"

see,"
such fi'om are." from
"

the town

before the

night should
did
not

until

I know

closed entirely

We

are

travellers,"said I,
are Travellers,

" had prohowever, and before we ceeded Seville." " ness darkvoice half the distance, pitchy the ; the overtook before ? so us. Throughout

you?"
not

said
this

why
I
am

did
not

you

tell me
at

porter
not
so

journey we by

had the

been badness

layed house deconsiderably of

our

to

keep
we

out
we

travellers. have

Jesus many

horses, IVIaria knows

them that
or

of

that of my especially

which attendant,

need

repulse any.
you and

Enter,
your

appeared to

was spur : it being thirty years,

pay no his rider also

regard to whip
no as

cavalier,and

welcome,

horseman,
at

company."

he

length

confessed to me, since he last mounted in a saddle. Horses soon become aware
of the brute powers of their riders, and the in question to take was disposed the fears and of ness weakadvantage great of the old man. There is a remedy,

opened the gate and admitted us and then spaciouscou^rt-yard, forthwith secured the with again gate
He into
a

various

" bolts and bars. Are you afraid that the Carlists should pay you I demanded, " that you take a visit," " much ?" so It is not the precaution

however, for
I became
so

most

in things
at

this world.

Carlists

we
"

wearied

were pace at which we I fastened the bridle

last at the snail's that proceeding, of the

porter ;
and did

us

afraid of," replied the are they have been here already, It is no damage whatever.

sluggish
then

certain scoundrels
are

horse forced

to

the

crupper

of

mine,

afraid
master

of, who
of the

that we of this town have a spite against

neither sparing my trot,which

some use
own

I soon cudgel, spur nor horse into a kind of

the

house, and
his

would

murder

both him

the other to make compelled they but find an his legs. He twice atabout tempted I was himself to fling down, to the this enmity, when a thick bulky man, who frequently ninbearinga lightin his hand, came great terror of his aged rider, entreated me to stop and perwhich led niug down a stone staircase, mit him to dismoimt. into the interior of the building. Two I, however, took notice of what he said, but continued three females, also bearing lights, no or w ith followed unabated and him. He stopped the lowest on cudgelling spurring and with such that in stair. ?" he Whom here have we activity, success, hour we less than half an then the saw exclaimed; lamp lights advancing which he bore, the lightfell full upon close before us, and presently came to a which river and a bridge, is Ola !" he exclaimed ; we crossing, my face. found ourselves at the gate of Cordova, it you ? turnin said think," he, Only without having broken either our who stood next him, a to the female of
" "
"

could family, opportunity." of the cause to inquire

and

horses' knees We

or

our

own

necks. entire the

the passedtlu'ough
we

of the town ere the sti-eets were deserted. the building,

no

reached dark and

length posada:
tirely ena

person, stout as himself, about his own might age, which " border think, fifty only upon rny ; and

dark-featured

almost

dear, that

at

the very
a

moment
an

we

were

The

posadawas
of which iron

large wishing
were

for

guest,

Englishman

windows from

well fenced with silence of death

or rejas,

: grating

should doors be standingbefore our for I should know an Englishman a;

a

lightgleamed
not

them, and the

to

mile's

distance, even

in

the

dark

vade perthe house, but the street in which knocked it was situated. We for a without time the at receiving the long gate
answer

only seemed

Juanito," cried he to the porter, " opei who not the gate any more to-night, admission. Shouk ask for ever may
nationals
come

to

make

any

dis:
o

any

we

then

raised our

voices

turbance,

tell them

that

the

son

CHAP.

XVI.

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
Carlists !

97

is in the house ( WelUmjtoii) Belingtou in hand them sword ready to attack and should other unless they retire;

door.
my

why should they call

It is

familyand

? myself Carlists

travellers arrive,-which is have seen inasmuch we as

month all
an
our

not
none

eldest son was and true that my a friar, the when convents were likely, suppressed, betook for a himself to the royal ranks, in which he has been

past, say that we have no room, apartments being occupiedby

and

upwards fighting

of

English gentleman
I
soon

his

pany." com-

three years ; could I help that ? Nor it I that was my second my fault, trow, enlisted the other day with Gomez son and the

friend the posadero was most a egregiousCarlist. Before I had finished supper during which, both himself and all his family were present, surrounding the little
found

that my

when royalists
God bid

they

entered

Cordova.
I did
not

"

prosper him, I say ; but him go! So far from I who

it was being a Carlist,

persuaded

table at which

I sat, and

observing my
manner

this very lad who is present to remain here, though he would fain have gone

the every motion, particularly

with his brother,for he is

and Who
a

brave
at

lad

in which I handled my knife and fork and conveyed the food to my mouth " I am he commenced politics. talldng
"

true

Christian, Stay
can

home,

said I

for what
to

is to wait upon
send
at

I do without you ? the guests when it

of

no

Don opinion, particular

Jorge," pleasesGod
name

them?

Stay

at

said lie,for he had inquiredmy in order that he might address me

home,
a

least till your

in

third son, comes

brother,my to my shame back,for,

particu- be it spoken,Don Jorge,I have a son a lar ; soldier and a sergeant in the Christino and I hold neither for King opinion, his own tion, inclinaCarlos nor for the chica Isabel : nevertheless, armies, sorely against I lead the lifeof a dog in this poor fellow, for he likes not the and I have been soliciting accui-sed Christino town, which I would life, military for years ; indeed,I have have left long ago, had it not been tlie his discharge him I but counselled and know der did to maim of himself,in orbirth, place my that he might procure his liberty whither to betake myself. Ever since I said to this lad, stay at forthwith the troubles have commenced, I have so
suitable manner
"

am

of

no

for no been afraid to stir into the street, do the canaille of the town see sooner
me

home,
to

turninground
then

a
'

corner, is
a

than

they
and
a

tillyour brother comes my child, take your place and prevent our bread who being eaten by strangers, would
so

forthwith list!'and

exclaim,
stones

Halloo, the Carrim

perhapssell
son

me

and

betrayme
as

there and

my
me

staid at my

home,

you

see,

rush,

and

cudgelsare
no

in
can

Don call
"

at Jorge,
a

request,and yet they

have

gi-eatrequisition ; so that vmless I

escape home,
that I seeing Avhich is

easy matter, my is

Gomez
in
were

Carlist!" and his bands

said

lately
:

stone, weigh eighteen is poured out in the street,which |life neither decent
fou
nor

been you how

"

Cordova,"
present
at

I ; "of course all that occurred ?"

convenient,

as

I think

did

they comport themselves

will

acknowledge, Don

Jorge.

Bravely well," repliedthe

keeper, inn-

5fou

" and I wish they Avell, see that young man," he continued, bravely I here hold with neither still. who tall were a to swarthy youth jointing told Don ^od l as as behind my before, Jorge, chair, ofecurang siae, you " I felt but I is confess he never is fourth marsure son, greater pleayaiter ; my life than when in my tered and does not live in the house,but ied, they en-

bout a hundred le was summoned

pou
now,

yardsdown the street. in a hurry to wait worship, as is his duty: your at the however,that he has come

the gate ; and of nationals

to
save

then to

see

the

dogs

their lives

flying through that'was a

"

the

street

sight,

eril of his life : before he leaves this ouse, he must peep out into the street
" see

Jorge; those who met me then at the corner to shout ' Halloo, Carforgot about I heard not a word lista!' and
Don
; some cudgelling

lusl

ruR

if the coast like a

is

clear,and

then his

he

jumped
knoMs

from

the wall

to partridge

own

and

ran

no

one

where, whilst the

98
rest retired
to

THE the house had of the

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
to

[chap,xy:
him that I have
are,
so

sition,is owing Inqui-

few

tomers. cus-

which there you

they
shut

and fortified,

Travellers

at

present,

they

tliemselves

must

know, Don

Now up. ail the that Jorge, my mez, house, Go; and
to

afraid to pass through La Mancha, lest I wish he they fall into his hands.
were

Carlist chiefs

lodgedat
the
was

hanged, Don
Christinos
You
or
"

Jorge,
me

and

whether not." for

an

Cabrera, and chanced that I it

Sawyer

by

I care Royalists,
at
once

talking my in which in this very room Lord Gomez in Cabrera in when came we are now, Don small is he a a mighty fury man,
"

recognised Englishman,"said I ;
countrymen
"

Toma my the

many visit Cordova ?" said the landlord," I

"

"do

of my

they
had

Jorge,but
and
'

he

is
'

as

active

as

wild

cat

are

best

customers;
of

have

as

fierce.

The

said he, canaille,' refuse Inquisition the

Englishmen in this house

from
son

in the Casa

of the

to

surrender ;
and

give but

I will scale the

neral, medico, who order, Gechica here,of the ear-ache. walls with I not
were

grades, Belingtonto a young cured my daughter,the

How should

of all

my men, But Gomez blood muskets if

and put them

all to the sword.'

we

said, No,
'

must

not
a

spill
few

two

we

can

avoid

it ; order

teers.

be fired at them, that will it proved,Don so be sutficient !' And their few after for a discharges Jorge,
to

horses with of
a

Englishman? There as vohmserving what noble Vatja que gentel and how tered scatrode, they they their gold about! brought they
know
an

with Gomez,

them

hearts

failed
at

them, and
:

discretion taken

they whereupon
to

dered surren-

who was a Portuguese, gentleman, but very poor ;

was one

much it was

their

said that he him

arms were

were

from

them, and
their
ever

they people,and
own

that these for

was

to permitted

return
as

houses

; but

as

soon

the Carlists
as
'

royalty ;
'

he

of Don Miguel's Englishmen supported the love they bore to continually singing
"

these departed,
as

fellows
now

became more,
me

bold loo, Haling turn-

ever, and

it is

once

El Rev chegoii El Rey E en Belem desembarcou

were

chegou,
!
'*

Carlista!' when
the them done
meet

they see
it is for
run now

Those

corner;
son

and
must

fear
a

of

merry

days, Don
ask your ?" are I
was

that my to his own him You

like

By

the

by, I
next

to forgot

Jorge. worship
ing, dressroom
:

ridge part-

of what The
"

home,

that he has

waitingon

lest they your worship, in the street, and kill him !" that you what
were
quainted ac-

opinion you morning whilst

"

the old Genoese said he, Signore," I am farewell. you Seville forthwith
"

eutei-ed my
I
am

come

to

bid
to

with
"

their knives tell with

me

about

to return

with

the horses."
a

Gomez:

kind

of

Wherefore
"

in such both

hurry?"

plied re-

man
"

might he be?"
A

middle-sized
"

man,"

the replied

assuredly you

had the

innkeeper;
most

But the grave and dark. in remarkable ance appearpersonage the Sawj'er: he is of them all was of
so tall,that giant,

till to-mon-ow;

better tarry animals and

rest ; repose yoursehes yourself require the expense/ and I will defray to-day,
"

Thank

kind

when

he The

you,

Signore, but
there is

we no

will

entered
one

the

doorway

he

invariably
lintel.
one

depart forthwith, for

in this house."
"

ing tarry"

struck his head

the against

What

is the matter

with the he

use

Palillos, I inquired. whom I who is a gloomy savage ruffian, 1 find no fault with the house," replied he was when a postilion. knew Many is the Genoese, "it is the people
I liked least of all was
"

the time that he has been at my house of of the Mancheold ; he is now captain he calls himself thieves, for, though gan less nor he is neither more a royalist, than
cause a

I complain.About keep it of whom since,I went down to get my J breakfast, and there, in the kitchen, who
an

hour

found

the I sat

master

and and

all his

thief.

It is

to
men :

that such as he mix with honourable

to the disgrace well, should be permitted

family

down

called for choco-

and

brave it

'

The

king arrived,the king arrived, and

at

I hate that fellow,Don

Jorge :

disembarked

Belem.'

"

Miguelite song.

CHAP.

XVI.]

THE

BIBLE

IN the

SPAIN.
young

99

theybroughtme, but ere I fell to despatchit, the master talkingpolitics.He commenced by that he held with neither me telling
could but he is as side, Quinto : for that I
must
was

late,which

Queen

Isabel and

of Christina,

she is a Neapolitan, who, notwithstanding I consider as my countrywoman. confess and returned the temper that Carlos compliment,by saying was a knave, and the Princess of Beira no that I lost my better than she should
to swallow

Hearing this,your

worship,I

rank
no

Carlist

as

los Carhe

sooner

did he find

of the other
me

than opinion

glaredat
the old
at

know,

wild beast. You that in the time of Signore,

a

like

be.

I then prepared
ere

the

but chocolate, the lips,

woman

constitution which Seville,

cause

house I could bringit to kept a coffeewas who frequented of the liouse,

was,

my is a stillranker struck

Carsible, poscup

by

all the

and liberals, principal of my ruin

:

list than

her

husband,
to
me

if that be the

indeed,the
admired

as for,

coming up
'

I gave my cusinto the air as high as the ceiling, tomers opinions, claiming, excredit they required, whatever Begone,dog of a negro, you both with regardto coffee and liqueurs, shall taste nothingmore in my house ; so that by the time the constitution was is as a swine may you be hanged even hanged.' So your "" orshipsees that it put down and despotismre-established, I had trusted them with all I had. It is impossible for me here any to remain that many of them would is possible to say that the knave longer. I forgot have paid me, for I believe they harboured of a landlord told me that you had confessed evil intention ; but the perseno yourselfto be of the same cution tics polithe liberals took to flight, as himself,or he would came, not have natural enough, thought harboured you." and, as was of providing for their own more variably safety My good man," said I, I am infor my coffee and than of paying me of the politics of the peopleat I am whose table I sit, a friend to beneath whose roof or liqueurs ; nevertheless, hesitate I sleep their system, and never to say ; at least I never say any thing
" "

their

so.

So

the

landlord,as

told

worshipbefore, when he at of this opinion, was glared

wild beast
:
'

found
me

your that I like

a

which

can

lead them

to

suspectthe

trary con-

more

Get

out

of my
no

said house,'

and with

which system I have pursuing than once a bloody escaped pillow, having the wine I drank spiced
; by

he,

'

for I will have

thereuponhe

here,' and spies of spoke disrespectfully

sublimate."

*A

^m

CHAPTER

XVn.

Cordova"
cote
"

Moors The

of

Earbary"
Office
"

The

English"
"

An

Old

Priest

"

The
"

Roman The

Holy

Judaism

Desecration

of Dovecotes

Tlie Dove. Rre"'iary" Innkeeper'sProposal.

Little
town

can

be said with

respect to the
is
a mean

of

Cordova, which

dark

full of narrow streets and gloomy place, without squares or public buildings alleys, and except save worthy of attention, its far-famed cathedral it

however,
Before shallow the

situaof their anbut little for the exploits cestors ; its tion, is beautiful and turesque. : their minds are centered in the picruns

mains
and
awe

well calculated and veneration

enter

and glorious edifice, magnificent of to excite feelings within the bosoms it.

of those who The

Moors

of

Barbary seem

to

care

the

quivir, Guadal-

thingsof
far
as

which, though in this part and full of sandbanks, is still a

; whilst

stream delightful

behind

it rise

present day, and only so thingsregard themselves asm, individually. Disinterested enthusimark that truly distinguishing
the those of
a

steep sides of the Sierra Morena, planted up to the top with olive groves.
The sides
town
or cityis surrounded walls, by loftyMoorish
on

noble

mind,

and

admiration

for

what

all

which

is great, good, and grand, they ing. of feelto be totally incapable appear difference inIt is astonishing with what

may

measure

about other

leaguein
and
no

circumference
towns

three quarters of a ; unlike Seville, of ancient in

most

Spain,it has
has
no

No

suburbs. I have said that Cordova

save edifices,
markable once re-

they stray amongst the relics Moorish grandeur in Spain. of exultation seem cited to be exfeelings by the proof of what the Moor
was,
nor

of

regret
he
now

at

the is.

sciousness con-

its

cathedral;

of what

More

yet this is perhaps the

most their perfumes, dinary extraorto them are interesting their papouches, their dates,and their place of worship in the world. It was is well kno^vn, a silks of Fez and Maraks, to dispose of as originally, built in the brightest days of which they visit Andalusia; and yet mosque, Arabian dominion in Spain ; in shapeit the generality of these men far from are with a low roof,supwas have both heard quadrangular, ported being ignorant, and of small and delicately-rounded and read of what was by an infinity passingin Spain marble of in the old time. I was pillars, once many conversing

which

still remain, and present at first the of a marble sight appearance grove ; the greaterpart,however, were removed

whom I at Madrid, with about the Alhambra intimate, of Granada, which he had visited. Did : when the Christians, after the expulsion not when weep," said I, you you of the Moslems, essayed the to convert passed through the courts, and thoughti into a cathedral,which ?" mosque they of the Abencerrages No," said he,
a

with
was

Moor

very

"

"

"

effected

a part by dome, and by clearing an open space for As it at present exists, the a choir.

in

the

erection

of

"

I did

not

weep J Alhambra

weep And I
"

wherefore did you

"

should I !
visit the I visited

why

?"

demanded.

Mato homet, appears to belongpartly and partlyto the Nazarene ; and of massive though this jumblingtogether Gothic delicate
an

temple

he replied, because, being at Granada it," of your on own one affairs, my me to accompany countrymen requested him

architecture of style the

with

the

lightand
still
re-

thither, that I might explain some

I should inscriptions.

Arabians, produces
it bizarre,

of the
not

certainly
accoid,for

effectsomewhat

have

gone

of my

own

CHAP.

XVII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

101 tend to bring a certainly of English to number

" It would it stands is steep." the hill on which considerable could compose verses, And yet this man a and was contemptible Spain," said by no means the first time poet. Once at Cordova, whilst I was entered has married a the cathedral, three Moors m

I,

"

and

it would
son

not
a

be

that the for

of

Carlos
and gito, Jor-

Princess of
a
"

England."
moment,
Don be

and proceeded it, slowlyacross

its floor

The then

host if this

mused

stood in the direction of a gate, which side ; they took no farther at the opposite around them than notice of what was

exclaimed,

Carracho,

marriage could

brought

about, both the king and myselfshould

to flingour glancing once or twice at have cause caps in the by slightly of them the pillars, one exclaiming, air." del MselThe house or posada in which I had Huaije del Mselmeen, huaije of taken abode of the Moors, was meen things exceedingly ;" (things up my other reof showed no the INIoors ;) and spect infinity spacious,containing an and tlie both for the placewhere Abderrahman small, apartments, large himself of the Magnificent prostrated greater part of wliich were, howe^er, in which The chamber old, than facingabout on arrivingat unfurnished. end I was stood of an immensely the at the farther door and making their egress lodged of the kind these were so men hajis long corridor, backwards; yet of much in the likewise described wondrous and talebs, men gold admirably tale of Udolfo. For a day or two after who had read,who had and silver, men the arrival I had and believed who seen Mecca, travelled, myselfto be the my in the house. One mornof Negroland. ing, onlylodger great city much in Cordova I remained however, I beheld a strange-looklonger ing old man seated in the corridor, than I had originally intended,owing by which I was to the accounts continuallyone of the windows, reading intently in a small thick volume. clad He was hearingof the unsafe state of the roads
*'

nook the

I Madrid. and cranny formed various

to

soon

ransacked

every

town, acquaintances amongst

is my
a

of this ancient

wore

in garments of coarse blue a loose over spencer adorned with various rows of mother of his nose. spectacles upon he notwithstanding

cloth,and
a

waistcoat of he small had ceive, per-

which populace,
on

at arriving

general tice pracstrange place. I

buttons

pearl ;
was

I could

ascended the side of the excursions I Sierra Morena, in which

more

than

once

seated,
"

that

was
"

accompanied by
the tall lad had
same

the

son

of I of

host,

of The

whom

my have the

bordered upon the gigantic is that person ? said I whom I presently met to the landlord, ; his stature " Who
"

already spoken.
house,who
I
was

people
the of

is he also he.

guest of yours ?

"

"

Not
plied re-

imbibed
way

idea that
as

Don exactly, "I

Jorge
can

de

mi

alma,"

of the

themselves, were

thinking ous; exceedinglycourtereturn

call him scarcely

as

guest, inasmuch

gain nothing by

it is true, that in

was

compelled to listen to a vast deal of Carlism,in other words, high treason againstthe rulingpowers in Spain,to
which, however,
"

house. at my him, though he is staying he is that You must Don know, Jorge, officiate at a who priests slightdistance largevillageat some
one

of

two

I submitted
"

with

from tience. pathat

Don
one

lord said the landJorgito,"

this place. So it came to when the soldiers of Gomez the his village,
reverence

pass,
tered en-

to

me

day,

I love the

English;

went

to

It is a meet them, dressed in full canonicals, they are my best customers. tween with a book in his hand, and he, at pitythat there is not greater union beCarlos Quinto proclaimed Spain and England, and that their bidding, in the market-place. The other priest, more English do not visit us. Why should there not be a marriage? The a a however, was desperate liberal, be at Madrid. king will speedily Why downright negro, and upon him the should there not be bodas between the laid their hands, and were royalists His reverof Don son ence, Carlos and the heiress of proceedingto hang him.

England?"

and obtained however, interfered,

102

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
?
one

[chap. XVII. Vaya

your ! the

for his colleague, condition on mercy that he should cry Viva Carlos Quinto 1 which the latter did in order to save his

of the church lives the

"

longerone
be ?"

more

learns."
reverence

How

old may

life. Well
mounts priest

; no

sooner

had

I the royalists

from departed and

these parts than the

his mule, comes to informs ence, againsthis reverreverence was

inquired. I am black eighty years, dova, eightyyears, and somewhat Cor"

Don

Jorge ;
which and self. myinconsiderable
me

more."

Such

was

the firstconversation

that he had notwithstanding

saved seized and into I be

passedbetween
He with
our soon

his

reverence no

his life. So his

and would the
not

conceived
me,

brought hither have assuredly

to

Cordova,
thrown

for liking
no

and

favoured

been

common

prisonas a Carlist,had steppedforward and offered to

not

Unlike littleof his company. friend the landlord, I found him

means

by
as

no

inclined
more

surety that he should

but should
to
answer
come

the quit
at

place,
time be in

which I

the

to talk politics, surprised me, knowing,

forward

any
now

did, the
he

decided had

and
on

hazai'dous the late

whatever

charge might
he is

part which
Carlist

taken the

neighbourhood. He took, call cannot however, great delight ecclesiastical subjects in discoursing vantage adhim, for he is not of the slightest on of the fathers. to me, as his very food is daily and the writings I have got a small library at home, brought from the country, and that consists only of a few eggs and a little Don Jorge, which consists of all the
"

brought againsthim ; and my house,though guest I

into irruption

milk and bread. have never seen

buenas
man,

As the

for his colour

me

I have volumes of the fathers which I money, and find I the been able to pick up, of it,notwithstanding he
a

they tell
pesetas.
is and

that

has

perusalof
and

them

source

However,
of

he is the

holy
ing, pray-

comfort.

Should

of great amusement these dark

reading and continually

is, moreover,

and you should dayspass by,Don Jorge, in these be I right parts, hope you will look

opinion.

in upon I therefore keep him I will show you my in my me, and wise of the and little him would bail for be fathers, and likewere house, library he twenty times more where I of a skinflint rear rous numemy dovecote, than he seems which also broods of pigeons, are to be." The next day,as I was and the of much at a source solace, againpassing

through
old him. much
man

the

in the He

corridor,I observed the same place,and saluted

my salutation with

same
"

time

of

profit."
by
your

I suppose you broods

care
mean

dovecote,"said

returned

I,

"

courtesy, and closingthe book, to placedit upon his knee, as if willing

enter

and by rearing your parish, allude of pigeons, to you take of the obedience much
to

the

you

into

conversation.

After

changing ex-

therein people,instilling

souls of your the fear of his and revealed of

course

book

and God a word or two, I took up the for the purpose of inspecting it. law, which "You will hardly derive much afford you struction infrom, that book, Don

must occupation

solace

spiritual

Jorge," profit."
stand underin
" " "

said the old

for it,
"

man

you cannot it is not written

;

"

lish." Don Engand

more

not speakingmetaphorically, was Jorge," repliedmy companion ; neither doves, I mean by rearing
nor

I replied. But Spanish," with respect to understanding the book, I cannot what there see can difficulty be in a thingso simple ; it is only the Roman breviary written in the Latin

Nor

in

less than
of Cordova of

that with

supply

the

market birds
or

and pigeons,

that occasionally
are

fatter

very flesh

Seville ; for my and plumper celebrated, than theirs I believe in the whole

tongue."

cannot

be found

Idngdom.

Englishunderstand Latin?" exclaimed he. would Vaya ! Who have thought that it was possiblefor
" "

Do

the

Should will
at

to my come village, you you doubtless taste them, Don Jorge,

venta

the

where
no

Lutherans

to

understand

the

ianOTa2;e

for I suffer

you dovecotes

will

put up,
own

but my

104

THE
to
me

BIBLE
be Jews follow in of the I have the
or

IN
"

SPAIN. And what

[chap. XVII.
cases

able

that there

should

might

those be ?

"

amongst
secret

the

who priesthood

I demanded.
"

old been
'"

the rites and observances law, though I confess that assured of the fact
ere

cotes, I allude to the desecration of doveDon Jorge,and the inti'oduction of sti-angeflesh,for purposes
me

now.''

therein neither
"

Plenty of Judaism of whether priesthood, "white species lack no ;

you, Don

amongst
the of black

seemly nor
reverence

convenient."
will
excuse

Your I mean,

for

it,I

assure once

not
"

understanding." yet perfectly

Don

Jorge

remember of
an

Jorge, ceitain

acts

of

in flagitiousness practised by the clerg}' who was accused of the black Judaism, lone and remote palomares{dovecotes) in olive-grounds and gardens; actions covered diswe and, after much investigation, the floor a wooden beneath denounced, I believe,by the holy Pablo You in his firstletter to Pope Sixtus.* in which was small shrine of a chest, undei-stand for in Don books black t hree me silver, Jorge, you now, inclosing learned in church matters." were are which, on beingopened, hog-skin, found to be books of Jewish devotion, I think I understand you," I replied.

searchingthe

house

ecclesiastic

"

written in Hebi-ew
the his

characters, and
on

of
at remainingseveral days more I determined to Cordova, proceedon to Madrid, though the roads my journey still said to be highly insecure. were in but little utility I, however, saw and tarrying tranquil awaitinga more state of afiairs, which rive. armight never

and great antiquity; but guilt, that there rather

was no

being
no

made culprit God

secret

questioned, of

After

in it, gloried ing saybut one, and Sanis of

denouncingthe adoration of Maria tissima as rank idolatry.".,

"

And
own

between Maria

ourselves, what

your
"

opinionof the adoration

I therefore landlord

consulted
"

with

the

this same
said

What

Santissima ?" is my opinion ! Que se io ?" the old man, shrugging up his
stillhigherthan
"

shoulders

on

the

mer for-

occasion ;

think,on
and right
one

but I will tell you : I that it is quite consideration,

of the best means respecting making the journey. Don Jorgito," he replied, I think I can tell you. and You say you are anxious to depart, | I never wish to keep guests in my house
"

longerthan
so

is

agreeableto
become
a

proper ; pay a visit to my at her as she stands

tan guapita genteel with
"
"

why

not ?

Let

any

would

not

them ; to do innChristian keeper.

I leave such conduct to Moors, church, and look and Negros. I will further there,tan bonita, Christines, dressed would and
so

so

well he

such Maria church

pretty colours,such

you have

on a

your

journey,Don
in my head
to

Jorge: I
I had

plan
to

which

red and ask

not
me

white, and

scarcely
should

resolved

why
a

Santissima

propose you before you wife's There is my me. questioned

be adored.

Moreover, Don

mio, this is
an

matter, and forms of the church importantpart tem." sysAnd

now,

Jorgito brother,who has two horses which he lets out for hire ; you shall occasionally hire them, Don Jorge,and he himself
carnal much shall attend you to take care of you, and to comfort you, and to talk to you, and shall dollars for the foi-ty you pay him

"

with Did ?" the

respect
you

to

misdemeanours.

take much

of them cognizance
"

journey. Moreover, as
; we,
our

there

are

thieves

Amongst

not laity,

however, kept a vigilant eye

own

upon

such upon the route, and males sujetos, Palillos and shall his as family,you

body ; but,

rather

upon the whole, were tolerant in these matters, knowtlieinfirmitiesof human

\ inake
I Don

an

engagement

and

that providedyou Jorge,

are

covenant, robbed

nature the route, and the horses on jand stripped indeed. We are rarely jof my wife's brother are taken from him great very in cases where the glory hy the thieves, save at pvmished, on arriving you shall, of the church and loyaltyto jNlaria Madrid, make good any losses to which

ing that

Santissima made

punishmentabsolutely
*

imperative."

Qu.

The

to Epistle

the Romans.

CHAP.

XVII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

105

my

wife's

brother you.
no

may This doubt is

be my

subject plan,
meet
as

in
Don

trabandista,
diamonds
and which

and

frequently
stones

smuggles
from
l\)r-

following Jorge,
your which

precious
he and

will

with it is
not

tugal,
in He all

disposes
sometimes
with all

of

sometimes
at

worship's solely
any
me or

approbation,
for of your lucre You
or

Cordova
is the

Madrid.
cuts,
much

devised with
to

benefit,
interest
find
on

and

acquainted
atajos,
in way
;

the and and

me

short is

view

either

Don all
so

Jorge,
the
ventas

mine.

will

my the and

wife's
route
one

respected
;
on

posadas
your

brother he of

pleasant
a

company

the

now

give
and I

hand

is
the

very

respectable

man,

upon

the
to

bargain,
my

will
to

forthwith tell
him
ship wor-

right
much

opinion,
;

and between

has

likewise

repair
to

wife's
to set

brother
out

travelled

for

ourselves,
of
a

get
the

ready

with

your

Don

Jorge,

Jie

is

something

Con-

day

after

to-morrow."

106

CHAPTER
Departure from One
Cordovd

XVIIL
Jewish Arrival

"

The

(^ontrabandifcta

"

Cunning become

"

at

Madrid.

fine morning I

from Cordova, departed the Contrabanmomited

on a

more
"

sociable have

and

in company dista;the latter

with
was

handsome animal, somethingbetween a horse and a pony, which he called a jaca,of that breed for which Cordova
is celebrated. with colour,
a

sionall
given up said he, on one of these occasions, smuggling," trick which to a was owing playedupon me the last time that I was
"

communicative.

at

Lisbon:

Jew, whom
a

had

been
me

It

was

of

brightbay

long acquaintedwith, palmed upon

a

strong but
black The
to

with forehead, elegantlimbs, and a long

star in its

false brilliant for it in for I know

a

real stone. such novice I

He

eSected
manner, not
to

the
am

most
not

extraordinary
a

tail which other

me

swept the
was

ground.
destined

as see

carry

in prepossessing
more

one not quiteso appears to have had ; but the Jew mest its appearance. In two, with which he played adroitly, for which than valuable I one one sembled keeping the rerespect it closely therefor in the curving a hog,particularly bargained, and substituting

animal, which to Madrid, was

true

diamond

when

of its back, the shortness of its neck, and head it had the
manner

another I did
across

in
contact

which with
a

it the

nearly in

kept ground ;
dered mean-

its

which, though worth not was imitation,

not

an

excellent

four dollars,
was

discover

the trick until I upon my

not

also the tail of

hog,

and

the
; his

border, and

ing hurryto
me

the ground much like one. over Its coat more resembled bristles coarse than hair ; and with respect to size, I have a seen Westphalian hog many

back, the
found he of
was

was culprit however, priest,

be that

told

|i

justdead and buried,which was him I saw as course false, laughing

corners

quite as
myself
on on

tall. the

I the back

was

not

altogether

in the

satisfied with

idea

of

exhibiting the

contraband

I renounced of his eyes. trade from that moment." intention

to

quadruped,and
the

of this most extraordinary looked fully wiston

It is not

my

describe!

minutely the various incidents of this guide had thought proper to place journey. Leaving at our right the my he interpreted mountains and of Jaen, we passedthrough himself; my glances, to understand that as he was Andujar and Bailen, and on the third gave me destined to carry the baggage, he was tiful day reached Carolina, a small but beauentitled to the best horse; a plea too the skirts of the Sierra town on well groundedon reason for me to make Morena, inhabited by the descendants it. colonists. of German Two t o leagues any objection entered from the defile of I found the Contrabandista this we no place by in quiet such the on i means Despeiia Perros, which, even pleasant company
animal respectable which road would
as

I had

been from

led

to

suppose

he the

times, has
the

an

prove host of Cordova. day he sat sullen and my

the

of representation

robberies

evil name, which are

on

account

of I'

li continually

within its recesses, being perpetrated |i I; of which I am at the period speaksaid to be swarming with |i to my save nosyllable; ing, it was by a moreplied questions, at night,howevei', after banditti. We of course expectedto be and otherwiss I'obbed, perhapsstripped having eaten well and drunk proporill treated ; but Providence here raani at my expense, he would occationably

Throughout

and rarely but silent,

CHAP.

XVTII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN,

107

fested before pass

itself.
our

It

appeared
the
a

that banditti

the of

day
the

had

seen

on

the prove

route,
useful

and

which in future
was
so

arrival,
committed

imagined
journeys.
satisfied him for

might
The with his

had

dreadful

robbery gained
bably pro: tain cer-

Contrabandista
the

and

murder,
thousand
contented it

by

which This for

not
a

they

price
and the

which

gave
ment treat-

forty

rials. them
we were

bootj'
a

beast,
he the he

general

time

which hands upon

had time

experienced
of his fain him in the
as

at

my

is that
not
even

interrupted.
individual

during
me,
me

attendance
have
a

We in
heard

did the

see

single
we

that
to
me

would

suaded per-

pass, whistles La

though
and

occasionally
cries. I We
tered en-

retain

servant,
of his my wife the

loud
where of

assuring compliance,
and world.
to
a

that,
he and

event

Mancha,
the

expected
and

to

would follow

forget
me

fall

into

hands

Palillos

Oreitself.

children I

through
to

jita.
It the the had Lord

Providence
been delicious breathed of human

again
weather forth which

showed
;

declined,

however,
I
was

accede need back of

suddenly
blast,

his domestic

request,
;

though
I therefore
as

in him

frozen almost but

sent

severity
;
no

was

tolerable into

Cordova,
he

where,
died

subsequently
about
a

being
We

ourselves
snow-

learned,
after lages vilThe
: one

suddenly,

week

Tentured covered

forth.

traversed

his

return.
manner

plains,
and
towns

and

passed
to

through
appearance
close the

of he took his made

his

death
out

was

lar singuand,
to

all

day

his

purse, said

deserted.
their
caves

The and
us.

robbers

kept
but

in cold

after

counting
"

money,

his

hovels,
We

wife,

have

ninety-five
the

dollars

nearly
late the
on

killed

reached

Aranjuez
I

by
and I

this

journey
the sale of

with the
one

Englishman
;

Christmas-day,
of
an

and

got
where

into

by

jaca

this

could

house

Englishman,
a

easily
in will the

double

by

successful

venture

swallowed

nearly
me no

pint
than

of
warm

brandy
water.

it

smuggling
for if
"

lay.
Lisbon
to

To-morrow

lafFected
On

more

depart
wonder ? the the

buy

diamonds.
to

the

following
where
we

day
had the

we

arrived

at

I shod for
to

the then with

; ere,

beast

requires
up and of his he the fell
course

be

Madrid,
to

good
and

fortune

He

started
the

made

find

everything

tranquil
continued

quiet.
with
me

door,
stable the

intention

going
had
on

The for he

Contrabandista
two

however,

foot dead of

days,
to

at

the

end

of upon I I

which the had had

time
couth un-

crossed the world.

no one

threshold,
Such is

returned animal

Cordova
on

floor.
Well

the Let

which

ridden

said
of the

the
mono

wise
v.

king

throughout pui'chased

the the

journey. jaca,
whose

myself

boast

capabilities

i"^

CHAPTER

XIX.

Arrival at Madrid^ Servant Honour.

"

Maria An

Diaz

Wanted"

Printingof the Application Antonio

" "

Testament Buchini
"

"

My Project
"

Andalusian
"

Steed-

General

Cordova

Principlesof

On

my

arrival

at

Madrid took the

I did others

not

prospect,no
woman

repairto
Calle de
the

my
la

former

lodgingsin

the in

ever howhope of self-interest, remote, intiuenced this admirable

in her conduct towards I
me.

Zarza, but
in Santiago, The
name

the Calle de

of vicinity hostess

Honour

to Maria

dauntless, Diaz, the quiet,

were

palace.

of the whom

clever
an

Castilian female !
of

(forthere host)was
take

was,

no propei'ly speaking,

Maria

Diaz, of

I shall

not to speak well ingrate richlyhas she deserved an

her,for
Bible in

eulogy in

Spain." She was native of Villa Seca, a of about thii'ty- She was a woman a five years of age, rather good-looking,hamlet of New Castile,situated in and with a physiognomy every lineawhat is called the Sagra, ment at about three Toledo. of which distance from Her of leagues' bespoke intelligence
no common

the present opportunity of somethingin particular.

saying

the

humble

pages

of

"

The

order.

Her

eyes

were

keen

father

was

an

architect

of

some

brity, cele-

and

skilled in erecting penetrating, particularly though occasionally clouded with a somewhat melancholy bridges. At a very early age she of Villa a was expression. There particularmarried a respectable yeoman and quiet in her generaldecalmness she meanour, Seca, Lopez by name, by whom beneath slumbered
a

which,
of

however,

had

three

sons.

On

the death

of her

and an father,which occurred about five years spirit of action which I am were previous to the time of which instantly energy whenever A she removed to displayed Madrid, niard, Spaspeaking, necessary. her for the purpose of educating and, of course, a Catholic,she partly of toleration in the hope of obtaining was children, and partly possessedof a spirit and liberality which have done would from the government derable consia honour much her supeit of money for which sum rior In this woman, during stood indebted to her father at the the remainder of my sojournin Spain, time of his decease, for various useful I found a firm and constant in li and ornamental friend,and works, principally in station.
;

firmness

to individuals

a occasionally

She
not

entered

say formed with

discreet adviser. most the neighbourhood of Aranjuez. The into all my I will at once acjustnessof her claim was plans, with deed, knowledged ; but, alas ! no money was enthusiasm, which, inno

J
:

part of her
to

the royal treasury being; character, forthcoming, Her

now

but

and cordiality them the

never

warding forsincerity, empty.

utmost

hopes of earthlyhappi-

of
me

her in

ness

were

concentrated
two

in

hen still

ability.She
the but
out

shrank and which

from

children.
a

The

you.ngestwere

hour

of

danger

persecution, of
were

stood my
to

friend,notwithstandingJuan
held
or

the many

inducements her kind

very age ; but the eldest, teen, Jose Lopez, a lad of about sixwas bidding fair to realise the

tender

by
"

betray me.
noblest of feeling

my enemies motives Her

to
were

desert

warmest

hopes of
He had

his affectionate
himself made such
to

ther. mo-

of the

devoted he had liad

the progress the^

the

and a proper friendship, duties of hospitality: no

arts, in wliich
that he

become already

CHAP.

XIX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN had
a

SPAIN.
been made Padre the many years before had be

109

pupilof his c"?lebrated naiDCof niodeni Lopez,the best painter !Maria Such who, Avas Diaz, Spain. versal unito custom a formerly according and still very prevain Spain, lent,
favourite
sake retained the
name

by

certain

FilipeScio,confessor
Seventh,and
so as

of Ferdinand been
notes

even

but printed, and for

encumbered
to

by
fitted un-

commentaries

of her Such
was

hood maidenMaria

for which, circulation, general

though

married.

Diaz and her family. One of my first cares was who received Mr. Villiei's,
usual kindness. I asked that I

to
me

wait
with

on

intended. never In the edition the of notes were course present and the inspired omitted, word, and that

indeed,it was

his

alone, ofi'ered

to

the
a

public.
handsome

It

was

him

whether

brought

out

in

octavo

he considered

to volume, and presented, might venture upon the whole, out withrather a favourable commence Scriptures specimen of Spanish to governapplications typography. ment. any more His reply was satisfactory: The mere however, of the printing, Nev/ of the Testament You obtained the permission at Madrid could be said he, which attended with no less whatever,unutility government of Isturitz," than the less liberal one and energetic a much was measui'es, ones, were

the printing

"

"

present. I
made You the had work

am

witness

to

the

to

which best
as

you I

by

the

former

taken for the circulation of the sacred promise nisters, mivolume. In the would
case

consider
and

sufficient.

of the

New

Testament

it

commence

complete

any fresh

Avithout soon as possible, application ; and should any one attempt to interrupt you, you have whom to me, only to come you may
command
at
a

not do to follow the usual plan of publication in Spain, trust namely,to en-

the work

to

the booksellers

yf the

any

time."

So

I went

and rest content with the sale capital, which they and their agents in the towns tain provincial might be able to obfor it in the common routine of business ; the result gcnernlly beingthe circulation of a few dozen copies in the literature for year : as the demand of every kind in Spain was small. miserably
course

away

lightheart,and forthwith made for the execution of preparation the object which had brought me to Spain.
I shall not
enter

with

of the

here could three

into

sary unneces-

which details,
to say

possess months

but from

littleinterest for the reader ; suffice it

The the and

Christians
made

of

England

had

ready al-

that,within
of consisting

considerable

sacrifices in

this

time,an

edition of the New five thousand

ment, Testa-

copies, God

the word of hope of disseminating the largelyamongst Spaniards, it

was now

was was

The work published at Madrid. of printed at the establishment writer on a well-known liorrego, and proprietor and
an

necessary to spare

no

exertion

to

Mr.

abortive.
I had

prevent that hope becoming Before the book was ready

political economy,
editor of
"'

influentialnewspaper
this recommended the That had

called

El

Espaiiol."To
been him.

[had
with

gentleman I by Isturitz
interview

on ['himself,

day

of my

beg-unto make preparationsfor puttinga plan into execution,which had occupied occasionally my thoughts and during my former visit to Spain, which I had a doned. bannever subsequently
I had

vmfortunate
intended

minister
for

liad. indeed, the

and Bon-ego,
to

highest him raising

esteem

Cape

Fiuisterre

cut-throat the

it when off on in the tempest, in the and passes of the Morena,

"
"

mused

the

wlien

station of minister of finance, the revolution of the Granja occur

rendered abortive liug,of course tliis project, with perhapsmany others .)fa similar kind which he might have formed. The

of La Mancha, as I jogged on plains little alonga way ahead of the Contrabandista. I had certain of the
a determined,after depositing

number

of

in copies of

the
to

shops
ride vour endea-

booksellers
to

Spanish

version
was

of

the

New

forth,Testament
circulate

Madrid, in hand, and

the word

I'estament which

thus

published

of

God

110 not amongst the Spaniards,

"

THE

BIBLE
the

IN

SPAIN.
not

[CUAP.XIX.
obtain

only of

I could
cost

her;
"

whereas

the

towns, but of the villages amongst the children not only of the plains, but of the hills and mountains. I intended to
\'isit Old whole of establish
secret

of both

the hoi'ses
"

animals stately that

at
sum.

tall, powerful, to scarcely amounted

and Castile, Galicia and

to

traverse
"

the
to

The for

state of the
was

surrounding cotmtry
not

the

Asturias,
the

this time

very

favourable

depotsin Scripture
to

cipal printo

towns, and
and of them
nature

visit the

people in
to

secluded

spots,
"

talk

Cabrera was venturing forth. within nine leaguesof Madrid, with an nearly ten thousand strong, army he had beaten of the several small ments detachhad

to explain to them Christ, of his book, and to place

the that I

queen's troops, and

book should from

in it.

the I

hands

of

those that

whom such

deem

benefit capableof deriving

was

aware

siderable journey would be attended with conand very possibly the danger, fate of St. Stephenmight overtake me ;

but
a

does the

man

deserve kind

the would

name

of

with fire and ravaged La Mancha Bands sword, burning several towns. of affrighted were fugitives arriving hour, bringing tidingsof woe ij every and disaster ; and I was onlysurprised that the enemy did not appear, and by almost at taking Madrid, which was
once.

follower Him He who find

of Christ who whom loses any he his

shrink
cause

from of
"

danger of

in the

his mercy, But

put
not

an

end

to

the

war

at

the truth wish

that is, the

war

the Carlist
to cease,

calls his

Master

generalsdid
for
as

shall Lord
were as

it," are

life for my which words These

sake the words

me,
gaged en-

long as

in bloodshed

the country was and anarchy exercise

to
men

involved

they could
lawless
thority au-

himself

uttered.

plunder,and
so

that of

fraughtwith consolation to they doubtless are to every one in propagating the Gospel in
of heart,in savage and

dear

fierce and

cerity sin-

barbarian horse ; for I be

lands I
now

passions. Cabrera, moreover, wretch, whose limited dastardly mind of harbouring a was incapable to gransingleconception approaching deur,
was a
"

brutal

purchased another
animals, at
the time

whose

heroic

deeds

were

con-'

these
am

of which

fined to and
to

wei'e speaking,

cheap. exceedingly
to
quence conse-

down defenceless men, cutting and disembowelling unhappy forcing

women;

about was royal requisition issued for five thousand, the

and

yet I Imve

seen:
,

this wretched

fellow termed

by

French yoimg, the on

being that
were

an

immense

number

for sale,for,by virtue of this the horses of any person not foreignercould be seized for the It
was

of course)the journals(Carlist the heroic quisition, regeneral! Infamy

benefit of the service. when that, the what before

a

the

price of
me

number was horses would which

poral cowardlyassassin ! The shabbiest corof Napoleon would have laughed and half a battalion probable at his generalship, of Austrian made have grenadierswould up,

be

treble animal He
was

driven him
I
now

and

his rabble

army

long head-

it then was,
to

consideration

into the Ebro.

made

induced
I black

purchase this
him.

exactlywanted
Andalusian and in

journevinto

the north. horses I

for my preparations I was already well calculated

to

stallion of

and strength, performing a journey of power

great capable of hundred a he

provided with
burdens
to

of the road and the support the fatigues which

might deem

necessary

ever, howweek's One thing, a was leagues time,but impose upon and still A furious. was unbroke, savage, indispensable lacking, cargo of Bibles, to a person I hoped ocabout to engage an casionally on pedition exhowever, which them.
to

put

on

his back, would, I

tame

of this
servant to

description ; I
me.

mean

had

no

doubt, thoroughly

him,

attend

Perhaps

there

servants labouring up the flinty is no place in the world where hills of the north of Spain. I wished abound than at more Madrid, or a1 their services to have purchaseda mule, but, though least fellows eager to proffer in of 1 offered thirty for the a receiving expectation pounds sorry one,

when especially

112

THE Ambassador
had
to

BIBLE
for his

IN who

SPAIN.
was

[chap. xt\.
chambre
to

the

escape

fille de

Madame

time it appeared Zea ; since which the greater part of his valuables life, leaving served an infinity of my father,who that he had of masto the care ters sometimes sometimes concealed them at his own as valet, as great risk, ; and when them
most

the
to

disputewas
Monsieur,
trinket

even

in the stored cook, but generally resettled, He to the confessed,however, I

tion men-

last that

capacity.
he had

inconsiderable

seldom

continued

more

than

three

days

am

in the same of the to show account this circumstance on service, you that cherishes prinarise in which to of a familywhich were sure ciplesdisputes of

in which the house almost immediately after his fidence conhe could father and for which admission, placed. My may than his being married a daughter of Pera, et moije assignno other reason of honour. Of a Greek, and suis Vunique having principles fruitde ce manage. died whom she other I mother know as nothing, Amongst persons my General Cordova, shortlyafter my birth. A familyof he had served was bad who he said and forlorn took a Jews was on pity paymaster, wealthy my his in habit of the condition and offered to bringme was malti-eating up, found his he match consented But father domestics. to which gladly ; my

honour, and
be

"

and

with

them I
was

I
a

continued

several

beau gar^on ; they fond and last of at were me, very offered to adopt at their death me, and years, imtil
to

in me," said Antonio, " for I was for him ; and once, when drew
a

prepared he

his sword against out me, I pulled it in his face. He and pointed pistol

all they had, bequeath me of my becoming a Jew. n'e'toitgucre

a

on

dition con-

Mais

grew pale as death,and from that hour of condescension. treated me with all lands It
was

la circoncision

mon

gout ;

only pretence,

ever, how-

for the afiair rankled in his mind ; that of the Jews, for I am a especially Greek, am proud,and have principleshe had determined upon revenge, and of to the command I quitted of honour. them, therefore, on being appointed anxious sayingthat if ever I allowed myselfto the army, he was particularly be

converted,it should
Turks, for they

be to the faith
are

that I should Mais

attend
an

him

to

of the like

men,

are

je

lui ris

nez, made
"

the camp. the sign for my

Avas

of honour of the cortamanga have principles and left him ; myself. I then returned to my wages, various situations, that I did so, for the Avho procured me father,

proud, and

asked and

well it

none

of which
was

were

to

until I

placedin
mean,

the

ing, my likhouse of

whom

he

took with

him

very he

domestic caused
to

Monsieur

Zea.

be shot upon a chargeof mutiny." " I am afraid,"said I, " that you

are

Yon Ml/self."

BeiTHudez,who
Bucldni.
"

and that the I suppose, Zea of a turbulent disposition, which chanced to Conto be at stantinople. disputes you have alluded are attributed to the badness to be solely

of your temper." " ? would What you have, Monsieur des in etj'ai me, more put great confidence cially Moije suis Grec, je suisjier, espeguage, principes d'hoiineur. I expect to be I spoke the pure Spanishlanas him I continued

Just so, mi

Lor, and

with He

during his stay.

which

acquired amongst
heard

the

treated

with I

certain that

consideration,
is
am

Jews, who,
Zea say,

as

I have

INIonsieur

though
none

confess

speak

it better than the present the Greek

of the best,and in the kitchen.

temper my that at times I

the I

natives of

Spain.
follow

tempted to quarrelwith
step by
was

pots and

I shall not rather he

pans

his step throughout

which history,

whole, that
to to

it will be
me,

lengthy: suffice it to say, that from was brought by Zea Bermudez he where tinued conto Constantinople Spain,
in his whose
a

engage my

think,upon the tage for your advanand I promiseyou

be

that
are serve

guard. There is one thing to you, you relating pleasesme

on

service house

and for

from

for many years, he was expelled

unmarried.
a

Now,
unmarried
a

I would
man

rather for love

young

marrying

Guipuscoan damsel,

and

than friendship,

Benedict for fifty

CHAP.

XIX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

113

dollars hate
and
me,
more

per and

month.
so

Madame is her

is

sure

to ;

seizing
by
this

the time it
on

tureen

of become

soup,

which

had he

waiting-woman
the
man.

quite
of his fore

cold,

particularly
am a

latter,
1
me."
see

cause bethat

placed
or

the the

top
nail

finger,
it
over

I mi
"

married
to

rather make

on

thereof,

causing

Lor But I

is

willing
you say

engage
are

to

various
to

circumvolutions my
a

you
"

married desert
to

his without

head,

great

astonishment,
then

man,"
your

replied
for and
to

how
am

can

you

spilling
it
to

drop,
he made

springing
and in

wife?

about into of the

leave
remote

with
another with of bound table before ! and eyes, in my And
a

the
moment

door,

vanished,
his after

Madrid,
and
*'

ti-avel

appearance
a

mountainous

parts
will while will receive I
am

Spain."
the

the and
;

piichera, flourish,

which,
he

similar
on

My
wages,

wife

moiety
mi
reason

deposited
his hands
over

the sink

my and

absent,
no

Lor,
to

then

suffering
he
at

to

therefore of say
;

have deserted.

him,
stood for all

put
his

one

the

other,

complain
did
well I

being
my

Complain
at

ease,
as

with
if he

half-shut had been

wife
to

is

present
She
never

too

the

world

instructed
nor

complain.
in my

service in upon this

twenty
manner

years.

speaks
I

sits

presence,
Am how
me,
to

unless I
not

Antonio
duties. he

Buchini
was

give

her

permission.
do I not ? of
an

entered wild
; ture

his which
me

Many subsequently
the the wild sharer. in but he the

the
companied ac-

Greek,
my I
am own

and

know

govern Lor
a

spot

to

house
a

Engage

mi

many
was

adver.-

man

many excellent rider

capacities
cook,
;

creet dis-

of

which
was

he

"

His

valet,
groom
am

good
I ?"
were

behaviour

frequently

highest
me

and

light
What him

in

word,
more

degree

extraordinary,
and him for

ser-v'cd
;

PccfiaiKos.
I asked

would terms,

you which

courageously
valet,
take

faithfully
all in

such

his

all,

extravagant,

notwithstanding
I

his

prin"

cipes
tliat
I he

d'honneur.
was

found,
to

however,
one

His

like

ne'er

expect

to

see

again."

willing
no sooner

take

half.

had

engaged

him

than,

Kosko

hakh

Anion.

114

CHAPTER
Visit

XX.
The

Illness"

Nocturnal

"

Master

Mind"
"

Spanish
But I
am

Soldiers

Tlie

Whisper" Salamanca" advertised. Scriptures

Mr. upon which

Irish

Hospitality-

anxious
of my

to

enter

narrative therefore i-eaders which

a

journey,

the upon and shall

Villiers had
me

desired him
a

to

wait

to

communicate
come

resolution hensive appreI

abstain from

to relating

great many
on

my circumstances

he

had

to.

Being

that, alone

and

I unassisted,

should in ing leavto my experiencegreat difficulty previously the Gospel of God to any propagating expedition.About in Spain,he was the middle of May I had got everything considerable extent bent in readiness,and I bade ferewell to my exertingto the utmost his upon and influence to further my credit first the friends. Salamanca was place own

occurred

Madrid

this

which Some I

I intended

to visit.

views, which

he himself

if considered,

to my departure days previous indisposed, owing to very much and moral the state of the weather, for violent and political this end it was I To had winds long prevailed. biting
was

well carried into proper effect, extremely the calculated to operate beneficially on
state of the

country.
'

had which

been

attacked

with
in
a

terminated

very disagreeablecopiesof the

severe

cold,

chase

his intention to purof considerable number

New

Testament,

and

to

cough,which
I had
on a

to the various remedies I sucthem forthwith the many cessively dispatch British consuls established in different tried seemed imable to subdue. 1 with strict and positive for departing parts of Spain, made preparations

' which day, but, owing to the orders to employ all the means particular ' state of my health, I was apprehensive their official situation should afford them to circulate the books in question, to defer my that I should be compelled their beingnoticed. They and to assure last day of The ; journey for a time. be chargedto afford i to in Madrid, moreover, were, finding myself stay my in their i I should appear fain to able to stand, I was me, whenever scarcely the all submit to a somewhat districts, protection, desperate respective ment, experi-

the advice of the barbervisited me, I determined who surgeon the Late on to be bled. nightof that sixteen from he took me same day and

by

encouragement,
should I I had
was was

and

assistance which
of. much
on rejoiced

stand in need of
course

receiving this information, for,though

ounces

of

blood, and

having

received

longbeen
all

aware

that Mr.
to

Villiers

his fee left me, wishing me a and me, upon assuring journey, that

pleasant
his

putation,he re-

willing havingfrequently givenme

at

times

assist me, sufficient

by

noon

the

next

day

proof, I
would
come

could

never

should be
A few

recovered. perfectly minutes

was

forward

in

expect that he so noble, and,

his after his departure, to say the least of it,considering bold and so alone, meditating high diplomatic situation, sitting decided a manner. I believe that this I was about to the journey which on the first instance of a British ambassador state of was undertake, and on the rickety

whilst

at the I heard a loud knock my healih, the third street duor of the house, on l^oor of which I was lodged.In another

having
Bible of

made it

the

cause
or

of the indeed of Mr.

a Society having favoured

national

one,

rectly. or indidii-ectly the

case

minute

bassy? S****, of the British ementered my apartment. After a

Mr.

What Villiers my
more

renders

remarkable

he informed conversation, little

me

that

firstarrival at

Madrid,

is that, on I fomid him

CIJA.P.

XX.]
well

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
in of

115

by no means Society.The
illumined

his

disposedtowards the had probably Holy Spirit this point. I mind on

institution

our hoped that by his means would shortlypossess many who, with far more Spain,

agents in
power and

ferred
official organ the the moderado in latter of the
one

print by
many

certain

the journal,

Duke of Frias, silly prime ministers of followed each

pai-tywho

other tino

rapid succession towards the periodof the Carlist and ChrisBut when did
a

better
ever

than opportunities

myself could

struggle.

nious calum-

expect
a

abroad of

scatter possess, and make the seed of the Gospel,

to

would

fall to the ground in report ever surdity abthe Spain by weight of its own

? Unhappy land ! not until the Avilderness a thirsty corn-field. of the Gospel has illumined smiling green pure light A word or two about the gentleman thee,wilt thou learn that the greatest of who this nocturnal is charity visit. all gifts ! paid me he The since gotten forthe prediction has next verified Though probably long day of the Spanishsurgeon ; I had to a conthe humble circulator of the siderable lost Bible in Spain, I still bear in mind degree cough and my the which I exloss of acts of kindness numerous perienced fever, though, owing to

barren
and

and

at
an

his hands.

Endowed

with

blood,

was

somewhat

feeble.
of my I

cisely Prewere

intellectof the

order,master highest

at

twelve

o'clock the horses and Santiago, my black

of the versed

lore of all

Europe, profoundly

led forth before the door in the Calle de

to mount ; but

lodging
prepared
dalusia of An-

in the ancient tongues, and speaking of the modern dialects with most
"

entero

remarkable

would not permit me to approach over, facilitypossessed,morehis side,and, whenever of a thoroughknowledge of manI made the atkind tempt, he brought with into the him commenced wheelinground with career diplomatic advantages such as great rapidity. C'est un maiivais signe, the most maitre" can mon few, even highly gifted, boast of During his sojourn in Spain said Antonio, who, dressed in a gi-een ser^dces he performed many eminent a Montero jerkin, cap, and booted and for the government ing which employed spurred,stood ready to attend me, holdhim ; services which, I believe, it had by the bridle the horse which I had
"

"

sufficientdiscernment

purchased from the contrabandista. " It gratitude is a bad sign, He had to encounter, and in my to reward. comatry they defer the journey till to-morwould however, the full brunt of the low and row."
to see,

and

stupid malignity of the party who, in your counafter the time of Avhich I am Are there whisperers try?" shortly I and the of demanded; peaking,usurped taking the management the affairsof Spain. This party, whose horse by the mane, I performedthe ceremony he was foolish manoeuvres after the most approved fashion : continually
"

feared discomfiting, of

and

hated

him

as

the

animal

stood

and still,
" "

I mounted

itsevil genius, takingevery

: saddle, exclaiming showeringon his head calumnies the dial to his horse did cry, The Rommany and absurd. most As lie placed the bit in his horse's jaw; improbable Amongst Kosko other things, he was accused of hn\ ing gry ! Rommany gry ! Mnk kistur tute knaw." acted as an agent to the Englishgovernment We then rode forth from Madrid in the affair of the Granja, bringby the ing San of our about that revolution Vincente, directing gate bribing by which the mutinous the mountains to parate secourse soldiers,and more lofty ticularly parOld from New Castile. That the notorious Sergeant Garcia. Such an accusation will of course merely nightwe rested at Guadarama, a large
"

opportunity the

man

xtract

smile

from

those who

are

at

at village

their

foot, distant from

drid Ma-

ill

racter, acquainted with the English chaand the general line of conduct on
a

about the

seven leagues. Risingearly morning,we ascended following

pursued It was

jelieved

the pass and entered into Old Castile. by the English government. charge,however, universally After crossingthe mountains, tiie lies alnic t entirely to Salamanca in Spain,and was route even pre-

116

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
a

[chap. XX.

over

sandy und
and of there

arid No

plains, interspersed
thin and

here groves We

with

scanty
worth

of of

of the many rivers pitythat, is ! o ne navigable The Spain, scarcely What but
a

pine.
few

adventure

beautiful
to

shallow
source

Tormes,
of

instead

occurred relating sold

a

during this journey.

in the

proving

and blessing

Testaments

lages wealth vilfurther

more through which we passed, About at Peilaranda. noon especially of the third day, on reachingthe brow of a hillock,we before a huge dome saw

this part of Castile, is of no than to turn the wheels utility small

water

of various upon distances weirs

mills, standing
at certain

of stone, which the river. traverse Salamanca

us,
sun

upon

which

the

fierce rays of the

My

sojourn at
and

was

dered ren-

of

striking, produced the appearance burnished gold. It belonged to the

of

by particularly pleasant
attentions which of the of which from Mr. I

tlie kind

cathedral ourselves

Salamanca, and
we were

we

flattered
our

that
;

at already

continual acts of hospitality from the inmates experienced Irish College, to the rector
a

end journey's being from the

we

were

ever, deceived, how-

I bore my

tion letter of recommendaand excellent friend of celebrated banker

still four whose

leagues distant
churches antl

kind the

town,

O'Shea,

It will be long before I forget towering up in gigantic Madrid. be distinguished mense these Irish, more imtheir head, can at an masses, especially the traveller Dr. Gartland, a genuine scion of the distance, flattering with an idea of propinquity which does good Hibernian tree, an accomplished in reality exist. It was till scholar, and and not not a courteous higharrived at that we minded aware long after nightfall gentleman.Though fully the citygate, which found of closed who I was, he held out the hand we and guarded,in apprehension of a Carto the wandering heretic mis^ friendship list attack ; and having obtained admission posed sionary, although by so doing he exwith some led our himself to the rancorous remarks we difficulty,

convents,

horses

and along dark, silent, found

a an us

deserted who
fortless com-

of the narrow-minded in their

native hats askance

clergywho,
,

streets,till we
directed
to

individual

ugly

shovel
me

and
as

long
passed
the did

large, gloomy, and

at cloaks,glared

we,

posada,that of the Bull, which found was however, subsequently

the town afforded.

by their whispering groups But piazzas of the Plaza.

beneath when

the best which A

melancholy town is Salamanca; the days of its collegiate gloryare long since past by, never to return more : a
circumstance, however, which
to

man Irishthe fear of consequences an cause to shrink from the exercise of the duties of
to to

his

? However hospitality and who is so religion" creed

as

attached attached ?
"

is little

the Eomish
am

the Irishman
not
or

be

regretted ; for
ever

what

benefit did the scholastic

convinced of the induce him

that

all the

thority au-

world

derive And
ever

from

losophy philamanca Sawould

are

Pope
to

the

Cardinals
on

? almost

for that alone was famous. Its halls which

at

close his doors

now

and grass is growing silent,

were

that respectable himselt^ were in need i at present alive ai.u personage Luther of food and Honour thousand

in

its courts,

thronged by

least

once daily eight thousand

refuge.
to

Ireknd

and !"

her Her

"

hundred

to which, at the students; a number present day, the entire population of the city does not amount. Yet, with

welcomes the
most to

fields have the

long
her

been and
cease

greenest in thr world;

fairest ; her
so sons

the daughters be

all its melancholy, what

an

bravest interesting,
never

eloquent. JNIaythey
! I had where

manca place is Salanay, what a magnificent ! How its a re churches, glorious how

stupendous
and with do its

are

its deserted sublime and

vents, con-

posada good specimenof

the of
same

The

put up

was

the old
as

Spanishinn,

what

but sullen

being much
in the time

grandeur

huge

crumbling

those described ot Philip the Third

and the The crown were rooms walls, which precipitous Fourth. many brick bank of the Tormes, look down upon the either floored with or stone, large,
river lovely and

its venerable

! bridge

with generally

an

alcove

at the

end,

in

CHAP.

XX.]
stood
a

THE wretched
was a

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

117

hind Beit is one of the few countries in Europe and in the where court, tempt, poverty is not treated with conand 1 may add,where the wealthy full of this of stable, horses, a rear nies, poidolized. In Spain the mules, machos, and donkeys, for are not blindly ever, howof does lack who, graded not feel himself a deno there was very beggar guests, which the house for the
most

flock bed.

stable

with

their
or

being,for he kisses no one's part slept in the and knows what it is to be not caballerias, being feet,
chants peddlingmer-

either arrieros cloth

small

cufi'ed

or

wlio travelled the

coarse room or

country with

the duke entertain his

own

linen.

in the corridor

Avho had officer,

Sebastian
pony
:

on

a an

Oppositeto my lodgeda wounded just arrived from San galled broken-kneed

Estrimenian,and
was

and in Spain spitten upon; the or marquis can scarcely a very of overweeningopinion

as he finds no consequence, one, the of his French perhaps exception valet,to fawn upon or flatterhim.

with

he

was

During
measures

returningto
He
was

his

own

to village

be cured. unfit for

attended lame
or

by

three that

broken and

diers, become solof the

maimed,
his

might known in this celebrated generally bookseller city. The principal

town,
and my

stay at Salamanca my that the word of God

I took

of the

they were worship,and that account he permittedthem to on travel with him. They slept amongst and the litter, throughout the day loungedabout the house smoking paper though cigars.I never saw them eating, cool went to a dark they frequently
service:
same

they told me as village

Blanco,

man

of great
to

wealth become number the where

was

consented respectability,

agent here, and

I in

quence conse-

depositedin
of New of proprietor
a

his shop a certain Testaments. He was

small

the official bulletin

printing-press, of the place

published.For
an

comer,
water

where from

stood

bota

or

kind

of

this bulletin I prepared advertisement of the work, iu

other

which pitcher,

they

held

about

which, amongst

things,I
was

said

six inches

only the liquidto trickle down permitting guide to salvation ; I also spoke of the their throats. and the great pecuniary Bible Society, They said they had no and destitute of sacrifices which it was were quite making with the money, pay, tliat su merced the officer occasionallyview of proclaimingChrist crucified, and of bread, but that he of making his doctrine known. gave them a piece himself and had few This be considered by a was only step will perhaps poor
dollars.
Brave

their black

filmylips, that the New

Testament

the

guests for

an

inn,

some

as

too

bold,but
take any

was
more

not

aware

thoughtI ; yet, to the honour of be it spoken,it is one of the few

in

Spain
tries coun-

that I could
to
arouse

calculated

the attention of the

people
"

Europe
nor

where

insulted is never
not

looked

poverty is with upon

never tempt. con-

considerable of struck caused the

point.I
same

also ordered

bers num-

advertisement
up in various

to

be I

Even

at an inn, the poor man spurnedfrom the door, and if

off in the

which shape of bills,

to be stuck

parts

fair

harboured,is at least dismissed words, and consignedto the

of God and be. his I mother.

with
cies mer-

of the town.
means

I had
a

of these

great hope that by considerable number

would be sold. I

This

is

of New

Testaments

as

laugh at the bigotry intended to repeat this experiment in and prejudices of Spain; I abhor the Valladolid, Leon, St. Jago, and all the which have cast a which I visited, towns and to crueltyand ferocity principal stain of eternal infamy on her history distribute them likewise as I rode along: ; but I will say for the Spaniards, that in the children of Spain would thus be their social intercourse no peoplein the that such a work as brought to know world exhibit a justerfeeling of what is in existence, the New Testament a is due to the dignityof human five in one fact of which not hundred nature, better or understand behaviour the then aware, their were notwithstanding which it behoves wards so a to adopt toman repeatedboasts of their fi*(,'quently his fellow beings. I have said that and Christianity. Catholicity

it should

118

CHAPTER
Departure from
Good
"

XXI.
The

Salamanca
"

"

Receptionat Pitiegua
"

Presbyter Combat
Pool" A

of Quadrmseds
"

"

Irish Christians of the

Tlie Fatal

Valladolid
"

Circulation

Inspiration The Spain The Catalans English Scripture PhilippineMissions

Dilemma
"

"

Sudden of

"

Plains

"

"

"

College"

Conversation

The

Gaoleress.

On Saturday, the 10th of June, I left by dint of diligent at length we inquiry Salamanca for Valladolid. four leagues from lage arrived at Pitiegua, As the vilwhere we intended to rest was small a Salamanca, village, containing only five leaguesdistant, did not sally about fifty of mud we families, consisting
forth tillmidday
a was

past. There
which

Avas

huts,and situated
where plains,
coni

in the midst
was

haze

in the

heavens

overcast

of dusty growing in

his countenance abundance. We asked for the house of nearlyliiding view. whom I had seen trick the cura, an old man IMy friend,Mr. Paand Cantwell, of the Irish College, the day before at the Irish College, kind enough to ride with me informed was that 1 on was who, being part of the way. He mounted had exabout to depart for Valladolid, was on a acted hired mule, which I most sony-looking from me I would a promise that would be unable to keep pace without not expected pass through his village with the spirited horses of mjself and of his paying him a visit and partaking man to be twin-brother hospitality. ; for he seemed of the mule

the sun, from our

nephew
from

of Gil Perez, on which directed us his A woman to a cottage his celebrated to superior in appearance journey somewhat Oviedo to Penaflor. I was, however, those contiguous. It had a small portico, made very much

mistaken.

The

ture, crea-

which,

if I remember

well, was

with a vine. We knocked set oif beingmounted, instantly overgroAvn at that rapid walk which I have so often loud and long at the door,but received admired in Spanish mules, and which was no answer silent, ; the voice of man horse can emulate. Our more The truth no statelyand not even a dog barked. left Ln the rear, animals were speedily takinghis was, that the old cui'ate was and his whole we were and were so continually obliged to siesta, family, break into a trot to follow the singular which ancient female consisted of one and a cat. The good man at last who, ever and anon, would was quadruped, lifthis head high in the air, curl up his disturbed by our noise and Aociferation, and show his yellow teeth,as if he for we lip, were hungry, and consequently were laughingat us, as perhapshe was. impatient.Leaping from his couch, It chanced that none of us were he came well running to the door m great with the road acquainted hurry and confosion, and, perceiving ; indeed, I could see nothingwhich for being was entitled fairly us, he made apologies many that The he from to when, said,he appellation. way asleep at a periofl for Valladolid is look-out Salamanca the have been on to ought to amongst a embraced of and his invited He me bridle-paths drift-ways, medley guest. discrimination is very difficult. very and conducted me where affectionately,
on

It

was

not

long before
travelled
over

we

were

dered, bewil-

into his which

one

and than
as
was

more

ground
However,

an parlour, apartment with size,hung round were

of tolerable

shelves,
At
or
a

strictly necessary. women passedon frequently and little not we were donkeys ponies, and too proud to be set right them, by
men

crowded
was
a

with kind

books.

and

end

there

desk

covered

with black

of table with leather, he

largeeasy chair, into which

pushed

120

THE
sentences thundering

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.XXI.

Castilian. j:owerful

clean beds for the use of the Avayfaring, of his and I shall be very much I had till then pleasedif friend will and uninformed old considered him a plain, yourself occupy them, tillthe and with of me and almost as morning." incapable tarry simple, man, But I was much emotion as a tortoise within its eager to continue my friend was and my less no spired: inat once but he had become journey, shell; anxious to return to Salamanca. with a his eyes were Upon replete leave of the hospitable and every muscle of his face curate, 1 taking fire, bright with of the him New a little silk The cap skullwas presented copy quivering. it without He received I'estament. which he wore, according to the a of the Catholic clergy, moved word, and placedit custom single uttering shelves of his study of the with his and I on one and down agitation ; but I ; up to in the presence of observed him noddingsignificantly that I was saw soon the Irish student, who of those remarkable men so one perhapsas much as of to say, " Your friend loses no opportunity frequently spring up in the bosom his book ;" for he of propagating like the Romish church,and who to a childI shall not who I was. well aware unite immense was simplicity energy the robust and power
"

the truly of mind, equally goodpresbyter, forget adapted speedily de Aguilar, Cura of Antonio Garcia rustics to guide a scanty flock of ignorant in some in Italy obscure village or Pitiegua. We reached Pedroso shortly before thens Spain,as to convert millions of heasmall I t a was taining conthe of shores on village, Japan, China, nightfall. sected about thirty and Paraguay. houses, and interthin spare man, of about a He was a or, as it is called, by a rivulet, and ens maiditsbanks On women dressed in and a black was regata. sixty-five, and singmaterials ; nor cloak of very coarse were ing washingtheir linen, his other garments of superior were couplets ; the church stood lone and quired inthe farther side. We on This plainness, however, in solitary quality. and shown were for the posada, the appearance of his outward man was the resvxlt of poverty ; a cottage,differing nothingfrom the by no means in benefice rest The the contrary. was general appearance. We called quite door in the at tom and his as it is not the cusat vain, a very placed one, plentiful of the these for of of Castile siim least at a people annually disposal to go out to welcome eighthundred dollars,of which the halting-places

dismounted their visitors : at last we sufficientto and entered the house, demandingof a and where we sullen looking woman were himself;the rest was devoted entirely She said there was the horses. to place He fed to the purest acts of charity. but we could the hungry wanderer,and despatcheda stable within the house, animals in his way, with meat tained not put the him singing on there,as it con-

eighth part was more defraythe expenses

than

of his house

longing bemalos machos (savage his wallet and a peseta in his purse; mutes) who would in need of when two his travellers, to aud parishioners, to his study certainly fightwith our horses, and money, had only to repair would be a funcion, which then there of an immediate and were sure supply. She then the banker of the village, would tear the house down. He was, indeed, the way, out-house across and what he lent he neither exto an pected pointed wished returned. that we could stable them there. nor to be saying which we found of making We entered this place, Though under the necessity and swine, with a door journeys to Salamanca, he full of filth frequent I contented lock. himself without a thoughtof the fate kept no mule, but with ofthecura's from the neighmule, and was unwilling bouring horses in such a place, the to trust a miller. " I once kept mule," of any them to the mercy said he ; " but some abandoning years since it was I therefore without my permission removed by a robber in the neighbourhood. entered the house, and said resoI had housed for the traveller whom determined to place IntelV that I was for in that alcove I keep two night:
an

ass, borrowed

CHAP.

XXI.]
in the
on

THE
stable. the Two
men

BIBLE
were an

IN

SPAIN.
was

121

them

to be

at purchased

Salamanca. I found the

squatted
on

ground, with

enjoying found provarious mantas, or slumber on supping; these they wi;re the floor. the travelling ters mule-cloths, stretched on merchants, the maswere French You I passed on to the of the mutes. are a merchant, I suppose, who it of the men Caballero,"said a man, stable, one saying softly,
bowl
two

of stewed hare before

which

ment
mense On im-

them,

returning merchants travelling

to

the

house,

"

of the house,and the master fall." seemed was go in and see what will be" whom entered the I had You I had not before seen. no sooner stiiblethan 1 heard a horrid discordant a French are merchant, I suppose, and
"

Yes, yes,

something between a bray and a yell,and tlie largest of the machos, to tearinghis head from the manger his eyes shooting which he Avas fastened, from and breathing a whirlwind flames, his nostrils, himself on my stallion. flung
cry,
The
on an

are
"

on

am

the way to the fair of Medina." neither Frenchman nor chant," merI
"

with
"

replied, and, though I purpose passing through Medina, it is not the view of attending the fair."
you from
"

Then

are

one

of the

Irish Christians from

"

horse,as savage
his hind

as

reai'ed himself, the fashion of other the town."

said Salamanca, Caballero,"

and,after legs,
on

man

;
"

repaid the English pugilist,

a

Why

I hear you do you I

come

call them Are

" "

that Irish
there call
"

with

pat

the
A

forehead, which
combat of

Christians ? "
them

replied.

nearlyfelled
the sullen
the ended house

him.

instantly pagans by

ensued, and I thoughtthat the words

woman

in their country ? said the Christians," from the I

are worse

We

man,

to

would

be verified

them distinguish who

are

Irish made

lish, Engno

by

being torn to pieces. It the mute by the my seizing

the risk

than

pagans, who

Jews

and

heretics."

of my the room but passed on limbs, and to answer, for me, and hanging upon him with all my weight, which had been prepared from "whilst Antonio, with much which, the door being ajar,I difficulty,

halter,at

who heard the following The man had short conversation the horse. and his at the entrance now came passingbetween the innkeeper standing wife : forward,saying, This would not have vice." happened if you had taken good adInnheeper. Muger, it appears to me the that we have evil guests in the house. to him Upon my stating of expectingthat I unreasonableness the last comers, Wife. You mean the Caballero and his servant. woidd risk horses in a place where Yes, I in my life. worse never saw countenances they would probably be stolen before the morning, he replied, True, true, Innheeper. I do not like the servant, and still less the master. ther have He has neiperhaps done right." He you then re-fastened his macho, adding for tells nor : he formality politeness of whipcord, me that he is not French, and when I additional security a piece which he he said rendered escape impossible. spoke to him of the Irish Christians, did not I seem to belong to them. removed

been

"

"

"

"

"

"

After supper, I roamed

I addressed whom I found
two
or

about

the village.

more or
a

than Jew
"

suspect that he
at

is

heretic,
ria Mado
to

three labourers

least.

standingat their ceedingly "".otfs; they appeared, however, exand resei-ved, with
a
^ buenas noches" turned into their houses (vithout inviting I to enter. me at last found the church to my way

Wife. Perhapsthey are

Santissima! house
"

both.
we

what when

shall

the gruff" purify

gone ? Innheeper. O, as for that matter, we of course must chargeit in the cuenta. I sleptsoundly,and rather late in

they are

porch,where
meditation.

the

morning arose and breakfasted,and in which, by its extravagance, bethoughtmypaidthe bill, self of retiring had not I found the to rest; before ing, departpurification I took affixed and out been The to merchants however, travelling forgotten. the church ment advertiseof had at an porch departed daybreak. We
some

I continued last I

time

in

the

At

to

the effect that the New

Testa-

now

led forth the hoiscs, and

mounted

122 there
were

THE
several
us.
" "

BIBLE
the door

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXI.
with savage
we

people

at

the dreaiy way shortening and dissonant Late del songs. in the afternoon

at staring

What

is the

meaning
are no

of this ?
'

said I to Antonio.

reached of the

ft is
to

whispered that
Antonio
;

we
"

Medina

Campo, formerlyone

said Christians,"
come cross

themselves at
moment

cities of Spain, at preprincipal tliough they have sent inconsiderable place. Immense our an ture." deparruins surround it in every
testing atdirection,
we

grandeur of this hands of the plain." The at least were dozen forward a city great square is a I'emarkable or busied in this evil-averting market-place ceremony. spot, turned and crossed surrounded massive piazza, Antonio instantly by a heavj^ which rise black himself in the Greek fashion, much over buildingsof more complex and difficult than the great antiquity.We found the town crowded with peopleawaitingthe fair, Catholic. which in a day or two. I to be held was Mirad Santiguo Santiguo que que | We in exclaimed many dc los deinonios ! * difficulty experienced some into the posada, whilst for fear of consequences obtainingadmission voices, which lans hastened away. was we occupiedby Catachiefly Valladolid. from These The day was hot,and we exceedingly people chandise, wended our along the plains not onlybroughtwith them their merway slowly and children. all that pertains but their wives of Old Castile. With of and sublimity Some of them appeared to be people are to Spain,vastness in one associated: : there was grand are its mountains, the worst description | which low, fela and no less grand are its plains, particular, burly savage-looking whose conduct was of about forty, of boundless extent, but which are seem
In

effect,the

that

rode

the

former

"

"

"

"

not

tame

unbroken

like the steppes atrocious flats,

he sat with

his wife, or

haps per-

concubine, at the door of a room ground Rough and uneven a is continually : here deep which opened upon the court : he was occurring scene ravine and gully worn venting horrible and obby the wintry continually and in lan. Cataeminence both not unoaths, an Spanish yonder torrent; The woman was remarkablyhandfrequently craggy and savage, at whose and but the lone robust, seemingly asj village. solitary some, top appears
of Russia.
"

There A few

is little that much

is blithesome that is

and

savage

as

himself

her

conversation

but cheerful,
seen

upon he started up, and drawing a long the elm, or the ash are unknown ; where man, stabbed at her knife and desolate sad from his girdle, the pinedisplays only naked bosom ; she,however, interposed i its pyramid-like form, and where no much And who are the the palm of her hand, which was is to be found.

rustics are solitary in the fields toiling where the green oak, limit or boundary,
"

his own. as as melancholy. likewise was frightful occasionallyBoth seemed to be under the influence: fields without of an incomprehensible fiiry.At last,
.

some

observation

from

the

wo^

grass'
most

travellers

of these

? districts with

For

the

cut.

He blood

stood for
up
to

moment

part arrieros, with

their

long

the

trickling upon
an

the

viewing ground^
hand,
ried huris She I went What

trains of mules bells. tinkling brown lords whom ways

hung

monotonous

whilst she held

her wounded the Plaza. and I

Behold

them

with their

then,with
up the has

oath, he astounding said,

"

bro-^Ti dresses, and broad faces, the true slouched hats ; the arrieros,
"

up the court to the woman

cause

of
more

the

Spain, and to respectis paidin these dusty

roads
dukes of and condes
;
"

of this ?
countenance

hope

the ruffian

not

injui-ed you." seriously

her

than whose heard

to

the

teous, sullen, proud,and rarelycourarrieros,

deep
at

voices may be the distance of a

times some-

with me upon of a demon, and at last with the glance of contempt exclaimed, " Caa sneer turned

either
*
"

the sluggish animals,or cheering

See the

Catalan Cannot a mile, rdls,que es esoi with his lady gentleman be conversing
cross-

crossing! see what devilish

affairs without private She then beinginterrupted by you ? upon their

own
"

CHAP.

XXI.J

THE

BIBLE

IN
some

SPAIN.

123

mighty convulsion out of the plain and eminences ground of Castile. The which which she small table to the door, on are appear in the neighbourhood not as if for the evening's properlyhigh grounds, but are placedseveral things, rather the sides of this hollow They repast, and then sat down on a retuj'ued the stool : presently exhibit anu Catalan, are jagged and precipitous,
bound
up her hand with a handkerchief, brought a going into the room and without
;
a

word

threshold

then,as

took his seat on if nothinghad

the
curred, oc-

strange and
force

uncouth
seems

Volcanic

at

some

appearance. distant

the

menced couple comextraordinary, and drinking, ing interlardeating

periodto
at

tricts. have been busy in these disValladolid abounds with convents, which present deserted, finest afibrd

their meal

with

oaths and

We some nightat church, departingearlynext morning, passed tecture in Spain. The principal is unfinished : it though rather ancient, country as the through much the same intended to be a buildingof vast reached imtil about noon was we day before, but the of the founders were distant half small venta, a means a league size, insufficient to from the Duero ; here we reposed selves ourcarry out their plan : it is built of rough granite. Valladolid during the heat of the day, and is a merce town, but the comthen, remounting,crossed the river by manufacturing is in and directed stone bridge, a handsome chiefly the hands of the there is a colonyof The banks Catalans, of whom to Valladolid. our course hundred established here. three of the Duero in this place have much nearly beautiftil It abound with trees and alameda, or possesses a beauty: tliey publicwalk, through which flows the brushwood, amongst which, as we passed The population is said singing river Escurva. along,various bii'ds were souls. thousand to sixty melodiously.A delicious coolness proceeded to amount from the

spent the

jests. Medina, and

of the

specimensof ai'chi-

water, which
stones
or

in

some

We

put up

at the Posada

de las Dili-

rippled gencias,a very magnificentedifice : this posada, however, we white were sand, and in others glad to over fleetly blue pools of conover quiton the second day after our arrival, glidedsoftly the accommodation sideralDle depth. By the side of one of being of the most and the incivility of about thirty, wretched these last sat a woman description, of the of the peoplegreat ; the master neatlydressed as a peasant; she was tall fellow, with gazingupon the water, into which she house, an immense tary of huge moustaches and an assumed miliflungflowers and tvfigs occasionally for a moment to ask air, being far too high a cavalier ti'ees. I stopped of his guests, to attend to the wants neither looked however, a question she, ; is true, he did not apwith whom, it continued but nor answered, pear gazing up
parts brawled
over

at the water

as

if lost to consciousness
woman

to
one a

be

overburdened, as
and amongst the

saw

no was

" Who is that of all beside. said I to a shepherd, whom

?" the child

but Antonio

myself.

He

I met

leadingman

national

moment

after. he: mad month send

"

She
*'

is

and mad, la pohre- guardsof Valladolid,

cita,"said
about
a

she

lost her since ;

parading about
steed, which
stable. Our
next
an

ago
ever

in that

pool,and

he

in delighted the cityon a clumsy kept in a subterranean

at

she has been

they are
the

goingto
Casa
who de

her to

Valladolid,to
There
are

quarters were
ancient

the

Trojan

many year in the eddies of the Duero ; it is a bad river ; vaija usted con la Virgen, Cahallero." So I rode on thin or through the pinares,

los Locos.

Horse,
least found
was

peiishevery

native of the
not

posada,kept by a who at Basque provinces,

We above his business. dolid, Vallaevery thingin conftision at visit from the factioxxs being a the gates were forts had been

which scanty pine-forests,

skirt the way

to Valladolid in this direction.

speedilyexpected. All blockaded, and various

built
to
cover

an

Valladolid is seated in the midst of immense rather hollow, or valley,

seems

which

to

have

been

scoopedby

approaches to the city. Shortly after our departurethe did arrive, under the Carlists actually
the

124

THE
of the

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXI,

Zaria- | of assuming. There was thing someBiscayanchief, and and cold in his tegui. They experiencedno opposition dry manner, and the of warmth nationals that staunchest retiring nothing generous ; had so captiwhich which ever, howto the principal fort, vated they, eager hospitality of in fine Irish the not rector a me surrendered, speedily gun and civil Salamanca fired the affair. As he being was, however, throughout ; the for ray friend the hero of the inn, on and offered to show me polite, curiosities of the place. He evidently the first rumour of the approachof the

commaud

bitious
knew who I was, and
on

enemy,
and ojff, of. found these from On

he mounted
was never

his horse

and

rode

that account

heard subsequently
to

our

return

the inn in other of whom

as we
a

perhaps, more he^ was, otherwise would have been : not a word j we Valladolid, and better hands, passed between on us matters, religious
from
as

resei'^'Cdthan

Frenchman
we

Bayonne,
much lity civi-

which
consent.

we

seemed Under

received

had

experiencedrudeness
the

gentleman, I

by common auspicesof of visited the college

to

avoid

the

this thei yond be-

from
In

his
a

was acquaintance introduced fine old to the superior, a a place, biliments kind-hearted of seventy, very stout, in the hasimple man, who willingly man air undertook of a friar. There was the charge of vending the an of his countenance Testaments vrhich I brought. on placidbenignity which highJyinterested me I found literature of every descrip: his words tion and few and simple, he seemed to ebb at Valladolid. at the lowest were have bid adieu to all worldlypassions. ried My newly acquiredfriend merely carin connexion One littleweakness with on bookselling was, however, still other business ; it being,as he assured to him. clinging in itself quite insufficient to afibrd me, Myself. This is a noble edifice in him livelihood. a During the week, which you dwell. Father ; I should contain at least two however, that I continued in this city, think it would hundred of copieswere students. number a considerable Rector. More, my son : itis intended of, and a fair prospect opened disposed

few

predecessor. days I foraied

bookseller

Missions, which stands Philippine the gate of the city% whei'e I

of the

of the

"

"

that many would be demanded. more To call attention to my books, I had to the same recourse plan which I had

for

hundreds than it now individuals. single

more

contains
some

Myself. I
"

obsei-ve that been made

to

rude

adopted at Salamanca,
advertisements
to

the

of afiixing Before
; fi-om

attempts have
the walls
are

the gave

walls.

it ;fortify in' with loopholes pierced

the city I leaving

orders that these I

should
much
as

be and

renewed
course

every week

every direction. The nationals of Valladolid Hector.

"

pursuing which
the

expectedthat
accrue,

visited

us

few

manifold of

good would
have
a

much

useless

mitted days ago, and comwere they damage ;

people would
contains induce

continual

which

learningthat word the living

them
unto to
secure

rather rade, and threatened me portunities optheir clubs : poor men, book men poor in was Myself. I suppose that even
"

with ! these

and within their reach,which existence,

might

it, and
. . .

intended which are missions, certainly for a noble end, experiencethe sad effects of the present convulsed state Spain? Rector. receive
no
"

consult it even In Valladolid and Scotch the friends,

a

salvation. both

oi

I found

an

College. From

my

English obliging

But

too true

we

at

present

assistance from
are

Irish at Salamanca, I bore letter of introduction to the rector of the latter. I found this college old an situated gloomy edifice,
street.

and

the ment, governleft to the Lord and ourselves. for th" aspirants ) present instructing my The
son

Myself
"

How you Not

many
at

in

retired in the

mission

are
"

The

rector

was

dressed

Rector.
are

one,

; not

one

habiliments character

of which

a Spanishecclesiastic, They

he

was

amevidently

and

flock is tered, scatthe shepherdleft alone.

all fled.

CHAP.

XXI.]
"

THE
reverence

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

125

Your Mtjself. takeu abroiid ? Hector.

an

has doubtless

"

attended the

active I

part in the mission

in the

throughoutby the sub-rector, principal beingabsent. Of all the

the college,
most
markable re-

curiosities of this
"

forty years Philippines, years amongst my son, forty

was

is the contains neither

a

which picture-gallery,
more

the Indians. Indians of the

"

Ah

me

! how

I love those

! Philippines your my
son. reverence

Myself.
Eector. the them better
"

Can

less than the nor of of this scholars variety house who eventually suffered martyrdom discourse in England,in the exercise of their of portraits ? vocation Ed-ward this very and in the angry times of the Sixth fierce Elizal)eth. Yes, in house
were

in the Indians

languageof
Castilian.

the Indians We There We is

No,

teach
no

many

of

those

language,I and Castilian,

more
"

believe. need

teach ?

the adoration of the

cated, edupale smiling half-foreign priests who, like stealthy grimalkins, traversed
;

Virgin. What

theyknow
your

green

England

in all directions
brageous um-

Myself. And
think of I

what the

did

rence revea

crept into old halls beneath

as Philippines

rookeries, fanning the dying

of Popery, with no other hope disemperhapswish than to perish boMelled by the bloody hands of the executioner, amongst the yellsof a rabble as bigoted as themselves : priests like Bedingfield and Garnet, and many others who have left a name in English story. Doubtless many a history, only the wonderful for being true, more could be wrought out of the archives of the EnglishPopish seminary at Vallanor

country ?
Bector.
"

embers

was

fortyyears
I know

in

the

but Philippines,

little of the

country,
love verjthe

I do not like the country. I Indians. The country is not it

bad;
"

is,however,
your
an

not

worth

Oistile.

Myself.Is
? Hector.
son.
"

reverence

tilian Cas-

am

Old Castilian, my
of the

From

the

house

Philippine dolid.
me

Missions my seemed

friend conducted

to

the

There abode

was

no

lack of guests at the

we

English College: this

establishment

Trojan Horse,
our

where

had

taken

up

in every respectto be on a more ter. scale than its Scottish sismagnificent In tlielatter there
were

at

Valladolid.

Amongst

others who
a

arrived buxom in She

few

pupils, was

robust

in the

whilst six or seven, I believe, scarcely EnglishseminaryI was informed that between and forty were ceiving rethirty their education. with building,
a

well dressed mantilla. very

during my sojourn dame, exceedingly black silk, with a costly was accompanied by a
but sullen and cious mali-

handsome,

It is

tiful beau-

splendid who from church, and a handsome library.The from Valladolid, and uiiy situation is light and celebrated for : it stands by its wine. One night, seated itselfin an as we were unfrequented part of the in the court of the inn enjoyingthe and, with genuine Englishexclucit}', is surrounded by a high wall, fresco, the followingconver-,aiion ensued siveness, which incloses a delicious garden.This between us. is by far the most ment remai'kable establishLady. Vaya, vaya, what a tiresome
small but
"

looking urchin of about fifteen, She came appearedto be her son. Toro, a place about a day's ney jour-

in the Peninsula, and I believe the most From prosperous. the cursory view which I enjoyed of I of ts interior,
to
course

of the kind

place
from

is Valladolid! !
"

How have
as

different

Toro

Myself.
it is at least is not
a

I should
as

thoughttliat
Toro, which

cannot

be

pected ex-

agreeable

know

much

I could not, however, th the order, neatness, "rhich

2\'er,
an

of its economy. fail to be struck and

was,

system
howpline, disci-

third part so large. as Toro Lady. As agreeable in the Were ! ever vaya you
"

Vaya, of prison
that honour

pervaded it.
air of I
severe
am

There far from

Toro, Sir Cavalier ?

monastic We

Myself. I
"

have

never

had

ihat such

though existed. actually

asserting
were

; the

prisonis
I think

placewhich

the generally of visiting.

last

126

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

1 CHAP.

XXI.

Lady.
I have

See
"

the
to
see

difference the
as

of of

tastes

him his find

on

trial.
to

wish

he if

may he is
a

not

find will ferent difof the

been

prison
tiresome

Vallaas

way that

the

prison:
a

do,
a

he

dolid,
town.

and

it

seems

the

being thing

prisoner being

very

from

son

Ml/self.
ousuess

Of
"

course,

if

grief
you

and will

tedifind

prison.

exist in the

anywhere, prison.

Myself.
at

As
"

there you your of

is

so

much attend

riment mer-

them

Toro,
of
"

course

to

Lady.

Not
"

in

that does it

of

Toro, that of all ? Is Is

not
.''

the Toro others ? ! my

son

comfort

prisoners.
we
are

Myself."
possess
to

What

Gaolerest.
them leros
;
;

Yes,
to

very
are

kind
cabaland
a

to

distinguish
What
"

from

I but

mean

those those
we

who with

Lady.
Am husband of mine I

does

it possess

Vaya
not

as

for
can

vermin It is

not

the the

carcelera? ? the your

miseria,
nrison
wine to

what that
enter

do
;
we

merry much chase pur-

alcayde
of

that

of

Toro
as

allow

as

child I
"

prison

the

prisoners
for.
so

can

Myself.
not
course aware

beg
that much

pardon,
;

was

and of ladolid is like

on

pay
not

duty
half Toro.

This
:

of

Vali

of makes I
"

circumstance difference. you. my I

am a

it

gay I An

there there

is

no

prison

learned Andalusian the Poor

to

Lady.
of

believe

ter daughwas

play

the

guitar.
me

valier ca-

that

prison:
my
a son

father

cayde, al-

taught
to
was

to

touch

guitar
fellow,

and he
me

and
were

might

hope

to

be

so,

sing
my

la

Gi-tana.
novio. I may

he

not

fool.
countenance
:

first

Juanito,

bring
this

Myself.
him

His
"

then be
a

belies
to

the

guitar,
a

that of

play

man gentle-

strangely
that

should
for would
:

loth fool. have

chase purThe

tune

Andalusia. had
a

youngster
You
"

carcelera the in

fine

voice,
of
manner.

and the

Gaoleress.

fine

touched

favourite
a

instrument

!
'

bargain
dias What
to

if than I
mean

you any

did

he

has

more

picarin Toro. take dering consibefore

Spaniards
I for remained

truly
to

masterly
her

Calabozero

listening
an

performance
to

is,
as

that he

he

does
to

not

nearly

hour,
and my

when

I retired repose. I and the t in my in

my

the

prison
what

ought
fathers

do,

apartment
that she

believe

his has
too

were

continued
the

playing
part
awoke
even

singing night,
for still

him. many

He

much he has him

pride
at to

too
"

during
as

greater

of

fancies;
me

and
to

length
Vallawith
to
a

occasionally
her
;

could

persuaded
dolid,
merchant
where

bring
have in

hear the

and
were

slumbers my
ears.

I who

arranged
the Plaza

strings

ringing

livee

take

128

THE
us we

BIBLE
are

IN

SPAIN.
Without

[chap. XXII.
he he

ship,sell
"

that
can

Galore,but
You

horse; we buy him."

you
are

poor

waiting for my answer, from whence the stable, into hurried

an

forgetthat
"

returned,leading soldiers," presently

animal
of about red

said I.
horse ?"
"

How

should

you

buy

my

by

thirteen

We

said the
;
we

soldiers, your corporal, but we

are
"

worship,"
are

It was a pony halter. hands high, of a colour; it was very much

a

dark

stillGalore

over,

the

marks

an good, and there was its in brightness eye. extraordinary have We worship," said the There, your fight ; we in all is the best pony there lore, Gaand like true Gypsy ; have kept together, We back. back stood to Spain," have do you mean What by showing me in the wars, have made your money ?" said I. creature wretched this cuiclao usted No (be worship. teiiga creature," said the This wretched under no apprehension).We can buy Gypsy, is a better horse than your your horse." !" Andalou he pulledout a purse, which Here of gold. Perhaps you would not exchange," contained at least ten ounces I replied, said I,smiling. If I were to sell," willing for that Seiior,what I say is, that he shall what would me you give

buy

of

our

sell bestis ; the captain troop is in leaguewith us. been to the wars, but not to We left that to the Busne'. and

being visible on
however,
"

ropes its hide.

of

galledall thongs The figure,

and

was

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

horse ?"
"

run

your worship is well nigh done." We that alters the matter. " Feeble as he is,Seiior,you could will giveten dollars for your worship's him ; no, nor any Englishman not manage He is good for nothing." horse. " " in Spain." You this is this? said I. How again,and I looked at the creature he was told me a fine horse moment its with struck figure. 1 1 an Andalusian, and a countryman of was stillmore relieve occato of need a in was pony

Then

wishes

to

sell

"

with your Andalou, and beat him !" said I ; " his work He looks feeble,"

;
'

your horse

"

"

"

"

yours."
"

No,
an

Seiior ! Andalou. and

we

was

We the

Estremou,
He
"

say that he said he was an of his kind. worst

did not

the horse of Antonio in carrysionally the baggage which we had brought1 ing
"

from kind
"

is

short-winded
I do

eighteen years old, your worship, and galled."

not

of this

Madrid, and though the condition wretched, I thoughtthat by. was

treatment

soom might possibly

wish

to

sell my

horse,"
rather
to sell
"

bring him

round.
I mount manded. this animal ?" I de-

said I ; "

the contrary ; I had quite

May
He is

buy
"

than sell." Your

worship does
will

not

wish

your

horse," said the Gypsy.

Stay,

dollars givesixty your worship; we running, he once commences When horse." for your worship's He the sea. him but " will dred hunstop him for nothing would sell two I not and springs over hills and mountains, and sixty. Meclis ! Meclis say behind in a moment. them leaves triclcs. I know more. no your gypsy him, Seiior,suff'er me'. with you." I will have no dealings you will mount hold never for you can " to fetch a bridle, Did I not hear your worship say halter." the him in with tliat you wished to buy a horse ?" said " You " is nonsense," said I. This the Gypsy. tc order in is he that spirited " pretend to buy a horse," said I do not want work his tell I the enhance you price. pony to i ; " if I need anythingit but it is getting is done." our baggage; carry hand and I took the halter in my late. Antonio, pay the reckoning." his bacL^ on sooner no I was mounted. " in a Stay, your worship,do not be before stooo had who the than creature, huiTy." said the Gypsy; "I have got displayingtht still, without stone will suit you." tlievery pony which

and is pony, Seiior, but; He will suffer none ill to mount. his ter. mashim, who am myselfto mount
"

baggage

!_

If^

is_a

CHAP.

XXII.

THE
to move,

BIBLE
and who of
istence ex-

IN

SPAIN.
a

129

inclination slightest in fact gave no than eyes and

that he is
to the

baggage pony,

and

belongs

farther indication

troop, and is not mine

to sell."

his rolling occasionally prickingup an ear, sprang

a

Two
a cia, on

forward

like kick

racehorse,at
I had order

most

perate deshe
on

hours' ride broughtus to Palenfine old town, beautifully situated tlieCarrion,and famous for its trade

gallop.
or might the groimd, in

expectedthat
down
to

flinghimself escapadeI
no

in wool. We put up at the best posada which the place afforded, and I forthwith visit one of the principal of the town, to whom I recommended was by my banker in I was Madrid. told,however, that he

get rid of his

proceeded to
merchants

burden, but for this

unprepared. I had in keeping on

been ride

was quite ever, howdifficulty, his back, having

accustomed
without
a

from my childhood to saddle. To him, stop

was

taking his
take
to

siesta,

"

Then

I had and

better

however, baffled all my endeavours, and I almost began to pay credit to the
words of the
run

Gypsy, who
on

had

said that the

own," turned reI, my the posada. In the evenmg I Avhen I went him. He saw again, was short bulky man, a about thirty, and
me

said

he would
sea.

until he reached

received

at

firstwith

some

of degi-ee

and

I had, however, a strong arm, I tuggedat the halter until I compelled his neck, him to turn slightly from been its stifihess of wood
;

bluntness ; his manner,

became
more

however, presently kind, and at last he

how
to show

which have
not

might

almost On he the

scarcely appearedto know sufficient civility. His me

he

brother last

had

he, however, did

justarrived from Santander,and

introduced
me.

to him
was
a

abate his speed for a moment. which the left side of the road down
was

This

highlyintelligent person,
many
both years of his life in

dashing was
over

a
a

deep trench, just

turn

where Avard the

an

the road took

towards

insisted upon
about the

passed England. They the showing me

me

and had

and right,

this he sprang in a sidewith the halter broke direction; pony shot forward like

town,
and

and, indeed, led

admired the ancient about

all

over

it,

neighbourhood.
Gothic the

the effort,
arrow,

particularly a light, cathedral,

edifice.
the aisles,

whilst I fell back said the

into the

elegant,but
Whilst
we

dust."
"

walked

Seiior ! "

Gypsy, coming

serious countenance the most up with in the world, " I told you not to mount that animal and unless well bridled

evening eun, pouring its mellow rays through the arched windows, illumined beautiful of Murillo, some paintings
with which the sacred edifice isadorned. my

bitted.
suffer
none

He

is

baggage

pony,

and will

From
me

the church
to
a

friends conducted

to mount

exceptionof and the animal,who (Here he whistled, sionally was scuvringover the field, and occahis heels, instantly kickingup returned with a gentleneigh.) Now, is. how he He see gentle your worship, is a capital and will baggage pony,
"

his back, Avith the myself Avho feed him."

mill in the neighbourfulling hood, walk. There by a picturesque lack either of trees the

was

no

and

remarked,
were

that the

or water, environs of

Paleucia

amongst
ever

most

sant pleapaired re-

placesthat I had Tired at last with

to
a

seen.

rambling,we
and

where coffee-house, with

was

they
meats. sweet-

hospitality ; and What do you ask for him ? said I. of hospitality of this simpleand agreeable glishman, kind there is much as in Spain. Seiior, your worship is an Enand a good ginete, On the next over, and, moreday wo pursued our understands the ways of the Galore, journey, for the a dreary most one, part, and their tricks and their language over bleak and intea*barren plains, 1 A^ill sell him with silent and cheerless towns to you a bargain. spersed also, I will take two hundred and sixty lars doland villages, which stood at the distance I
'
"

carry all you Galicia."

"'

have

over

the

hills of

regaled me
Such

chocolate their

for
**

"That

less." of two or three leaguesfrom no About largesum," said I. midday we obtained No, Senor, net ai all,considering distant view of an immense is
a

him,

and

each
a

other.

dim range

aii"l of

130

THE
are on

BIBLE
those The

IN

SPAIN.
to

[chap. XXII.
Pobrecito! he before it was forth."
"

mountains, which
"wliich bound

in

fact

Castile

the north.

day, however, became dim and obscure, A of them. lost sight and we speedily
hollow these wind
now arose

and into

blew

over

desolate

plains with
of dust

violence,
our

ther
was a

husband. my friar in our convent

shut up and the brethren driven We returned to the door.

you
news
"

wafting clouds

the rays of the sun were few, tired of my I was red and angry. four reached and about when Ave journey, half a *****, largevillage, way between my I Palencia of and intention

faces ; and those

I suppose, " said the gentlemen," curate, that Catalans. Do are you bring any from that kingdom ?"
we

"

do you suppose I demanded. Because I heard you

Why
?
"

are

lans Cata-

this moment

in that conversing
"

language."
from

Leon, I declared

bring no
"I

stoppingfor the
saw same a
more or

night.

said I. hands
"

Catalonia," believe, however, that the

news

scarcelyever place than this

*****.
most

desolate of village for the

were

is in the greater part of that principality of the Carlists." brother

town

The

houses

were

Ahem,

Pedro

This

tleman gen-

part large,but the walls

like those of barns. in the We

of
no

mud,
person direct

saw

talonia says that the greater part of Cais in the hands of the royalists.

where Don Carlos be at long winding street to Pray, sir, may till at to the venta, or posada, us present with his army ?" He may be coming down the road at the farther end of the place, we last, this moment, for what I descried two black figures said I, at a standing know we out, I looked up ;" and, stepping door,of whom, on making inquiry, learned that the door at which they the way. in The two figures side in a that of the house we were stood was at my were Antonio and we all followed, somethingstrange moment. quest of. There was of these two in the appearance beings, four looked intently up the road. seemed the genii of the place. One Do you see any thing? said I at who with last to Antonio. about fifty, slim man, a small was He maitre." was Non, mon sharp ill-natured features. said I ings, Do you see anything, sir ? black worsted stockdressed in coarse black breeches, and an ample to the curate. skirts. I "I black coat with long trailing see nothing,"said the curate, for an should at once have taken him out his neck. stretching the cxhad said Pedi'o, I see nothing," but for his hat, which ecclesiastic, beinga pinched friar ; I see nothing but the dust, nothing clerical about it, His companion was which is becoming every moment diminutive beaver. more of low stature, and a much blinding." younger
" " " "
"

"

"

"

"

"

man. save

He

was

dressed in similar fashion,

wore
a

"

that he carried

dark

blue

cloak. their the

Both

hands, and within door, now

in walking-sticks kept hovering about and

now

deed, I shall go in,then," said I. " Ining it is scarcely prudentto be standhere lookingout for the Pretender: of the
town

should the nationals

" "

hear

looking up one. some they expected

"

the

of it, casionally without,octheymight perhapsshoot us." said the curate, following Ahem ! road, as if
me
"

there I would

are

no

nationals
see
a

in

this

Trust
to me,

me,

mon

nio maitre," said Anto"

: place

fain

what

inhabitant When
were dered or-

in

French,

those two Les the

fellows imhe-

would

dare become
to

national.

are

and are Car list priests, arrival of the Pretender. I" cilles We conducted our horses
to which
we

the awaiting

the inhabitants take up

to
a

of this
arms

place
that
;

as
on

nationals, they
account

refused
to

man,

and
a

stable,
woman

we

were
"

shown

by

the

of the house. said I to her.

"

Who

are

those
curate

men

"

pay speak out if you have may all are anythingto communicate ; we

had

to

mulct

therefore,

friend, you
of your " I am
"

The

eldest

is head
"

to

our

here." opinion at all,"said I, of no opinion my

said pueblo,"

she
,

the

other

is bro-

save

tliat I want

supper.

I am

CHAP.

XXII.J
Eey
nor

THE

BIBLE
You say

IN

SPAIN.

131

neither for

Roque.

that I am a Catalan, and you know that Catalans think only of their own
aftairs." In the

selves amongst meadows in which grass was growing in the richest luxuriance. The shone out sun and I brightly,

hailed his v/ith joy, re-appearance evening I strolled by myself though the heat of his beams was oppressive. which still about the village, I found On two arriving within forlorn and melancholythan it at more of Leon, we leagues passednumerous first appeared and waggons, and bands of people cars ; perhaps, however, it had been a place in its with horses and mules, all hastening of consequence to time. In
a

one

corner

of it I found

the I

the celebrated and which

our

fair Avhich is held in the

or

ruins of

on chiefly ci+y largeclumsy castle, :

St. John's took

Midsummer

day,

built of flintstones secured my

into these ruins the entrance

but attemptedto penetrate,

M'SLS

after

placewithin three days arrival. This fair,though

by
way

gate. From
to

I found

the

the castle convent, a sad order of

to

desolate place,formerly the residence

of mendicant St. Francis. the brothers I
was

of the

intended for the sale of principally is frequented horses, by merchants from parts of Spain,who attend with many goods of various kinds, and amongst
them I remarked many of the Catalans

about

to return

whom I had pi-eviously I heard a loud buzz of inn,when seen at iMedma the sound, prevoices, and, following sently and Valladolid. reached kind There is nothing of meadow, a remarkable in Leon, where, upon a small knoll, sat a priest which is an old gloomy town, with the in full canonicals, reading in a loud exceptionof its cathedral,in many voice a newspaper, while around him, respects a counterpart of the church of either erect or seated on the grass, were the same and Palencia, exhibiting light assembled about fifty vecinos,for the elegant architecture, but, unlike its most unadorned with splenpart dressed in long cloaks, beautiful sister, did

paintings.The situation of Leon in the midst of a highly pleasant, blooming country, abounding with and turned away to another part of trees, and watered by many streams, the meadow, where which have their source the cattle of the in the mighty mountains in the neighboui'hood. It is, were village grazing. The cui'ate,on himself stantly ina healthyplace, however, by no means observing me, detached from the group, and followed. in summer, when the heats especially
amongst
my
two

whom

I discovered

and friar. A fine friends the curate knot of Carlist q-uidnuncs, said I to myself,

is

"

am

kinds of disorders, feedingamongst waters, generating many those horses, fevers. the best in all the kingdom especially I had scarcely of Leon." He then began with been at Leon three all the volubility of a chalan to descant days when I was seized with a fever, which the pointsof the animal. I thought the strength on Presently against the friar joined of constitution would have his even who, observing us, my for it wore almost me to a opportunity, pulledme by the sleeve yielded, and whispered, "Have at the nothing to do skeleton,and when it departed, with the curate, master, end of about a week, left me he is the state of weakness greatest thief in the neighbourhood; deplorable if you want brother has a a pony, my much which he will dispose of better, cheaper." " I shall wait till I arrive able scarcely I
to

"there

told you want is mine now

pony," said

he ;

raise

noxious

exhalations

from

the

in such that I
was

make

the

had, however,

ertion. exslightest previously

the a bookseller to undertake persuaded chargeof vendingthe Testaments, and advertisements as friendship had publishedmy priestly away, musing on and sincerity. usual, though without veiy sanguine ***** From to Leon, a distance hope of success, as Leon is a place of eightleagues, the inhabitants,with verj' fewthe country rapidly where
at

Leon,"

exclaimed, and

walked

improved : we
Streams,

passedover

several small
our-

and

found occasionally

furious Carlists, and are I exceptions, and blinded followers of the I ignorant
K2

132 old

THE

BIBLE
a

IN
were

SPAIN.

[chap. XXII.

papal
s

church.

It is, moreover,

once bishop' see, -which was of Don comisellor the by prime

enjoyed
Carlos,

in

his

wallvingabout the streets dressed and with dence all the confilivery, which the certainty of protection

still from the local authorities could afii'ort: bigoted spirit should any one terrupt be disposed to into pervade the place. Scarcely them seems when them. had the advertisements appeared, from in motion. I learned moreover the clergy were Antonio, They that the person in whose house we from house to house, banning and were went notorious alcahuete," or was a cursing, and denouncing misery to living in the neighbourshould either purchase or whomsoever hood, spy to the robbers whose fierce and
"

read
been

"

the accursed into the

books," which

had should

and

that

unless

we

took

our

parture de-

sent

country by

heretics tlie road.

to

and speedily
to
a

the innocent for the purpose of perverting of the population. They miuds did
more

wt unexpectedly, be plunderedon certainty

I did not

pay much
as

attention
to

they

commenced
in the

the bookseller against

court.
not at

process ecclesiastical is

these
was

hints,but
great,

Leon that should and

my I

desire
was

quit
I

convinced there health

Fortunately

this court

as

long
be

as

I
to

continued

of much present in the possession and the bookseller, a bold authority; ance, at defiset them and determined man, and advertisement cathedi-al. raised
were

xmable

regainmy

went
to

so

far

as

to

ainx

an

the

gate of the very

the book, against sold at

Notwithstanding the cry several copies Leon : two were purchased

vigour. Accordingly,at three in the moraWe had for Galicia. ing,we departed proceeded half a league when scarcely oveiiaken we were by a thunder-storm
of tremendous that time violence. of
a

We wood

were

at

in the midst

which

tion number and the same distance in the direcby extends to some by ex-friars, from in which were we going. The neighbouring parochialpriests the ground believe the whole bowed to number almost I trees were villages. amounted wind of the torn or by disposed during my stay up by the roots, visit to this dark whilst the earth was to fifteen ; so that my ploughed up by in vain, as which bm'st all around the lightning, not was corner altogether The and the seed of the Gospel has been spirited sown, nearly blinded us. rode which I became But the Aiidalusian on palpable sparingly. though is truly furious,and bounded into the air as if which Leon darkness envelopes ' lamentable, and the ignorance of the possessed.Owing to my state of weakin the greatest difficulty j ness, I had peopleis so great, that printedcharms and his Satan and incantations against maintaining my seat, and avoiding a tune, fall which host, and against might have been fatal. A every kind of misforsold in the are publicly shops, tremendous dischargeof rain followed
'
_

and
more

are

in

great demand.

Such

are

the and

storm,
streams

which and

swelled flooded the

the

brooks

the results of than and I where had the

Popery, a

delusion

which,
base de-

ing surround-

to any other, has tended brutalize the human mind.

damage country, causing much After riding about amongst the com.
five

risen scarcely fever

Had

cast

found that Antonio had that he had He informed me

soldiers in the uniform

bed my when T me, alarmed. become from

seen

leagues, we
the heat

began
now

to

enter

the

mountainous

district which

surrounds
almost
to

Astorga :
make

becam^e of flies

ral seve-

swarms suffocating;

began

of Don

Carlos

their upon
to

lurking at
that

the door been

of the

they had me. concerning

It
was

down posada,and making inquiries most very

nected con-

and settling appearance, all the horses, stung them whilst the It road
was

madness,

was

and flinty

trying.
we

with

indeed

fact sing-ular

that great difficulty

reached

Astorga,

with of these
accounts

and dust, our covered with mud Leon, that upwards of fiftjtongues with thirst. had various to who on our fellows, cleaving palates

leftthe ranks of the Pretender,

133

CHAPTER
Tlie Inn

XXIIl.
Habits of the

Astovga
"

"

^TlieMaragatos
"

Maragatos
"

The

Statue.

We the

""-cnt to

posada in
indeed,which

the

suburbs,
the full of

for breath with and

only

one,

place

afibrded. the
master

The

was court-yard

arrieros and with two confusion

carriers, brawling loudly;

of the house
was

fighting days,during the greatestpart of

time I I
was
or

of his customers, and universal As I disreigned around. I received my it the

contents

ing
felt relieved. continued We
once

: soon appearedAntonio vinegarand water, which I drank

in this suburb the found

three
which

stretched

on

tester-bed. my bookseller,

twice

contrived

to make
no

moiuited
as

of

way

into the town, but

nor

in wine-glass
was

of face,

which

ing, greetfor

any

probably intended
notice.
so

the Testaments.

charge
The

person of

another, I took no not however, was

Antonio,

to undertake willing disposingof my brutal, peoplewere

being stinick with

returned In my
the the

salute

for on and uncivil, and I returned to my stupid, patient, he instantlytester-bed fatigued and dispirited. Here cudgel, I laylistening with his whip, scafrom time to time to the rifying of
a

countenance

carman.

sweet

chimes old

endeavours

to

separate these

two

of the

which rang from the clock cathedral. The of master

came near

antagonists, my rushing amongst

overturned
committed
no

horse broke the

loose,and

the house
once

never

me,
me.

nor,

deed, in-

crowd, promiscuous individuals, and

It
was
a :

about inquired
"

Beneath

several before
were

the he

care

of

Antonio,however, I speedily
Mon
"

littledamage.
was

waxed
to

stronger.
me one

maitre," said
see

long
at

time
we

last

decent chamber.
sooner

peace shown to a tolerably better ; We and worse had, however, no the arrived
on

restored

evening, I let us quit this posada to-morrow

mallre!
en

you are bad town

morning. Lugo
et

taken from
to

of it, than possession Madrid filled with

women,

Allons,mon
nous

II, est temps de.

poxir

waggon way

its

mettre

chemin

Coruna,

dusty

vellers,Gcilice." tra-

of consisting

children,
were

Before what

and the like. We invalid ofiicers, and our forthwith dislodged, now into the flung yard. On our of this treatment, that
we

however, to narrate proceeding, befell us in this journey to

it will, perhaps,not Galicia,
to say
a

gage bagplaining com-

JLiigo anu
be amiss

few words

concerning
a

we

were

told
body noan

Astorgaand
town,
thousand and

its vicinity. It is
a

walled
or

were

two

vagabonds whom
had
come

containing about
with inhabitants, last

five

six

; who a nd had arriero,

knew

without

cathedral the

set already

the whole

which college, may of land

is, however, at
on

house
to

in confusion.
we were

As
at

great favour,
ruinous ing buildHere

present deserted.
and confines, of the
a

It is situated be called the

however,

lengthpermitted
in
a

capital,

take up our down the filled with

was an

abode

the stable, yard,adjoining

rats

called the country of which Maragatos, occupiesabout

tract

and with
were

and

vermin.
a

three

there

old bed with

content

tester,and
we

square north-western called mouth hills which

and leagues, boundary have their

has
a

for its chain

mountain
a

this wretched

accommodation

Telleno,the

loftiest of

of
the

could with

glad proceedno
to

ourselves, for I and was burnt farther,

heat of the

originnear

fever. head

The

place was
staircase

and intolerable,

I sat

on

the

of the river Minho, and are connected with the immense range which constitutes the frontier of the Asturias and

with my

between

my

hands, gasp-

Guipuscoa.

134

THR
land is

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[CUAP. XXII

I.

well told me and barren, a person who knew them luigrateful niggardlyrepays the toil of the that he wovdd rather face ten Valencultivator, being for the most part cians, people infamous for their ferocity with a slight and blood-thirstiness, than confront one of red rocky, sprinkling brick eanh. Maragato, sluggishand stupid angry The Maragatos are perhaps the most though he be on other occasions. selves The men ever to be found caste scarcely singular occupy themamongst the which abandon in of Spain. They chequeredpopulation husbandly, they have their own and who to the women, peculiar customs plough the liinty fields and gatherin the scanty harvests. ^vith the dress,and never inteinnarry rently and sons far diffeis a clue to Their husbands ai'e Spaniards. Their name their origin, nation it signifies Moorish as employed : for they are a and almost esteem Goths," and at the pi*esentday their of arrieros,or carriers, it follow to a disgrace garb differs but littlefrom that of the any other road of Spain, On Moors of Barbary, as it consists of a profession. every north of the mounthose tains longtightjacket,secured at the waist particularly di-\dde the two which loose short trousers Castiles, by a broad girdle,

The

and

"

which and
a

the knee, and boots gaiters.Their heads are shaven.

at

terminate

may be seen gangs of fives and sixes of beneath these peoplelolling or sleeping the

of slight fringe the lower

or

hair

being only
wore

left the in the of

broiling sun,
mutes

on

and heavily gigantic mules.

commerce

at

pai-t. If they
could the

laden

and

In

word,

turban be

barret,they

scarcely almost
Moors
one

the entire of of the

of

nearly

from distinguished

half

but in lieu thereof they wear dress, sombrero, or broad slouchinghat

hands
to

Spain passes through the whose fidelity Maragatos,

Spain. they are

of

There
a

can

be little doubt of those Goths

on

that who
to

their trust is such, that no one accustomed would hesitate to employ them confide to them from the the transport of a ton of Biscay to sea

remnant

sided with

the Moors

their invasion

of treasure

who ligion, Madrid; knowing well that it would adopted their reit not delivered and manner of dress, not be their fault were customs, of a grain, of the first, safe and undiminished,even which, with the exception and that bold must still to a considerable be the thieves who are tained degree re-

Spain, and

by them. It is,however, evident that their blood has at no time mingled with that of the wild children of the
for scarcely desert, amongst the hills of and figures than
are

would feared it whilst

cover

seek

to

wrest

it from would

the

far-

who Maragatos,

to cling

they

could

stand, and
when

would

it with

their bodies

Norway
faces of and of of
more

would

you

find

the

Gothic essentially Maragatos. They

men,

those

fell in the act of loading or their long carbines. But

they discharging
terested, being disin-

strong

they are
and if

far from

athletic

but

loutish

and

heav^-,
in

they

are

the most

worthy trust-

their

features, though
are

part well formed,

vacant

for the most and devoid

of all the arrieros of

Spain, they

general demand
sima

expression. They are slow and plain articles a and those eloquentand imaothers of ginative speech,
sallies
so common

at

least double

for the transport of to what

esteem
a sonable rea-

the trade would

:

in the

versation conor

of other
never
a

escape
coarse

them

seldom Spaniards, over, morehave, ; they

recompense accumulate large sums that in for

contents

by

this

means

they

of money,

withstanding not-

selves they indulgethem-

thick

when

you

hear them

and pronunciation, speak,you almost

in

fare to that which superior general the parsimonious

Gennan or imagine that it is some to express English peasant attempting himself in the

Spaniard"

another

argument
descent
men

in favour
;

language of

the Peninsula.

They
and

are

constitutionally matic, phleg-

it is vei-y difficult to arouse their anger ; but they are dangerous which help to swell out incensed ; and and desperate when once goodly figures.Many

of the north, and battening in l iquors swilling delight luscious and meats, upon gross their tall and of them have

of their pure Gothic like true ]Maragatos,

for the

^"3c

CHAPTER
Venta"
"

XXIV.
By-path"
"

Departure
Sun
t ure
"

from Shade

Astorga"
"

The

The

Narrow

Escape" The
"

Cup

of Ws.ler"

and

Bembibre

Convent

of the Rocks

Sunset

Cacabelos

"

MidnightAdven"

Vi llafranca.

It

was

four o'clock of
we

iug whea
rather had
to the

a beautiful monior sallied from Astorga,

from

been

we its suburbs, in which directed our course we : lodged

We after arrived at Maiizanal, shortly of wretched huts, village consisting and exhibiting sign of poverty every and misery. It was time to refresh now
a

north, in the direction of Galicia.

the

ourselves

and

horses,and
at
a

we

ingly accord-

Leaving
our

mountain

Telleno

on

put up
in the found

tation venta, the last habi-

where, though we village, barley for the animals,we had much in procuringanything difficulty for ourselves. 1 was fortunate at length Several of the Mararunnels of water. enough to obtain a largejug of milk, in the mounted on donkeys, for there were plentyof cows gatan women, in their to a on neighbourhood, Astorga, feeding picturesque passed us way which had passedby, where we whither vegetables. valley they were carrying abundance of grass, and trees,and others in the fields handling was We saw rivulet broken drawn lean a their rude ploughs, oxen. by by tinycascades. The contain small about half a gallon, likewise a We jug might passed through but I it in which no in a few saw however, minutes, for emptied we, village, the thirst of fever still Near this soul. was we tered enburning village li\-ing within leads direct destitute of the high road which me, though I was The venta had something the at last, appetite. from Madrid to Coruiia, and four German of travelled w e a near baiting-house. leagues, appearance having It consisted of an immense from of pass, formed on stable, to a came species which hill of kind of kitchen left a was our partitioned (one by a huge lumpish the family slept. from the great and a place where descend those which The lolled and robust a moimtain on our right master, Telleno), man, young solid which altitude. In the stood on a of much less stone bench, large by one of conHe was the door. of this pass, which siderable within middle was sitive very inquiI could but breadth, a noble Adew opened respecting news, afibrd him none, whereupon he became Before us, at the distance itself to us. the of about a league and a half, rose communicative,and gave me the his+ory which have of his life, the sum of whicli was, that of I frontier chain, mighty courier in the Basque and he had sides broken been its before blue a spoken ; still but about a a and picturesque wearing provinces, peaks year since had where to this village, been dispatched thin veil of the morning mist, which pelling. disHe fast he the of the an fierce the sun was were post-house. kept rays in enthusiastic and bitter It seemed an enormous liberal, barrier, spoke further proof the surroundingpopulation, our to oppose threatening gress, terms

passed along the eastern over Maragatos, here enlivened broken uneven gi'ound, and and there by small green valleys
left,we
skirts of the land of the

and

it reminded

me

of the fables who INIagog,

who,

he

said, were

all I

Carlists and

the children respecting said to reside

of

friends of the friars.

tion paidlittleatten-

to his discourse,for I was in remotest Tartar^-, looking are which at wall of a rocks, behind a gigantic Maragato lad of about fourteen, can only be passed by a gate of steel a who serA^ed in the house as a kind of if we were ostler. I asked the master thousand cubits in height.

CHAP.

XXIV.]
that had that

THE

BIBLE
but

IN

SPAIN.

137 faithful Greek, pointed meadow by which, he said,

much
on our

still in the laud of the he told

me we

Maragatos;
the lad

Antonio, my
out
we

left it behind
was

to

me

and nearlya league, and an was orphan, could become rake

an

might regain the high road

down than if
we

serving until

he

lower

returned

sufficient capital to up arriero. I addressed several

a

urchin to the 'boy, but the questions and either spurred my horse looked sullenly in my face, answered by monosyllables or was gedly in the high road dog-

brilliant witli was steps. The meadow short green and in the middle grass, there was small rivulet of water. I a
on,

expectingto
a

be

in

moment

silent. I asked
read. down
"

him
"

if he
as

could
as

horse, however, snorted

and wildly,
cross was

and

; the stared

Yes,"

said

he,

much is

that brute

of yours

which
we

tearing
our

the

to evidently unwilling seemingly inviting spot. I

the manger." Manzanal, Quitting AYe

soon
a

thought
continued
some

that

the wild

scent

of

wolf

or

other

animal
but
was

might
soon

have ceived unde-

course.

arrived

at the verge

disturbed

him,

of
"

deep valley amongst

those of the chain before
us, and

mountains
we
now

not

which
we

had left

seen

which

to

the

raage, chain. which road

us,

but those of the Telleno right, justbefore they unite with that

by his sinkingup to the knees in a bog. The animal uttered a shrill and exhibited sharp neigh, every sign of the greatest terror, making at the
same

time

great

efforts to

extricate
but last

the sides of this vaiiey, himself, and Eound exliibited something of the appearance every moment of
a
a

plunging forward, sinking deeper. At

a on

in

circuitous

wound the horse-shoe, before manner just ;

he

arrived

where

small

vein

of rock

showed

itself:

this he

placed his

the however, and divergingfrom which road, lay a footpath, seemed, by

a

and with one fore 'eet, tremendous ertion exfreed himself from the deceitful

gradual descent,to lead aci'oss and to rejoin the road on valley,

other

the the
a

soil,springingover

the

rivulet

and

side,at

the into

distance this
we

of about

furlong;and
We had
not

struck, in

firm ground, on alighting comparatively where he stood panting, his heaving sides covered with a foamy sweat. tonio, Anwho
scene,

order to avoid the circuit.

met gone far before we their way to cut the Galicians on two of them harvests of Castile. One
''

had
to

observed
venture

the

whole

afraid

turned forward, re-

by the path by which we came, shortlyafterwards rejoinedme. This adventure brought to my recollection shouted, Cavalier, turn back : in a will be amongst with the meadow moment its footpath precipices, you will break horses which where the tempted Christian from your ourselves could their necks, for we road to heaven, and straight finally foot." The climb them conducted him to the dominions of the on scarcely other cried, Cavalier, proceed,but giantDespair. be careful, and We footed, now horses,if surebegan to descend the valley your will run no great danger : my by a broad and excellent carretera or A violent dispute carriage-road, comrade is a fool." wliich was cut out of the ensued between the two mountaineers, on oixr instantly steep side of the mountain right. his opinion On our each supporting left was the gorge, down which
and
"

with loud oaths and

to stopping
see

curses

; but without

tumbled have

but the path was

and

I passed on ; the result, filled with stones now

the runnel of water before mentioned. The

at

which road the

was

tortuous, and

every

turn

scene

The became more huge slatyrocks, on which picturesque. gorge my horse was continually wise slipping.I likegraduallywidened, and the brook at heard the sound of water in a deep its bottom, fed by a multitude offsprings,

gorge, which
and
worse

I had I
soon saw

hitherto

that it would
to
was

than

madness

increased in volume and in soimd, but perceived, be it was far beneath soon us, pursuingits reached I it level till course proceed. lieadlong
not

turned

my regainthe

horse, and

to hastening

where grourid, of
a

it flowed but

in the midst

path which

I had

when left,

beautiful

confined

prairie.

138 There

THE
was

BIBLE
vage sa-

IN

SPAIN. invoked

XXIV. [chap.

something sylvan and

the mountains foot to
on

in

the farther

side, clad from

trees,
was

with pinnacle

so

unable

growing that the closely of to obtain a glimpse

were uneven

eye the with

hill

sides,which
and

nish,
Panhagia on
"

the vengeance of the the heartless woman, ing, sayIf I were to offer a Mahometan

for gold dash

he would a draught of water it in my face ; and you are a Catholic, with the stream runningat your I told him
to

ra\ines

the gulleys,

haunts

of the

door."

be

silent,and

two cuartos, repeated wolf, the wild boar, and the corso, or givingthe woman mountain-stag; the latter of which, as request, whereupon she took a my and going to the stream, filled informed by a peasantwho ^as I was pitcher, it with vrater. It tasted muddy and descended driving a car of oxen, frequently to

feed in the for the

and prairie, their

there

shot

sake of

for the flesh, beingstrong and is held in no account.

but it drowned the fever disagreeable, which was me. skins, devouring We againremounted and proceeded able, disagreewere on

our

way, which
now

which, for
the
now

considerable

But
these
were

the wildness of notwithstanding the handiworks regions, visible. The of

man

distance, lay along

stream,

margin
small

of the
racts, cata-

fell in
over

sides of the gorge,

brawled

other times ran dark and were though precipitous, yellowwith little" fields of barley, and we a deep poolsoverhung with tall willows, sa^y which seemed to abound with and church down hamlet in the prairie pools the finny tribe, for large trout quently frebelow, whilst merrj^ songs ascended to
"

stones, and at silent through

our

ears

from

where

the

mowers

were

with toiling

their

luxuriant and

cuttingthe scythes, abundant I could grass.

that I
so
was

the

the water, catching from sprang brilliant fly which skimmed The
was

along its deceitful surface.

was

scene

believe scarcely and I almost

in

in Spain,

The delightful.
most

sun

rolling
its

so brown, general

arid and

cheerless, high in the firmament, castingfrom

orb of fire the

fancied myselfin Greece, in that land of ancient glory, whose mormtain and forest scenery Theocritus has so well described.
At the
a

glorious rays, so that the atmosphere with was flickering their splendour, but their fierceness either warded off"by the shadow of was
the trees,or

bottom

small

of the valleywe washed village, by

now

tered en-

rendered innocuous
which the
rose

by

the

the

brook, which
to
a

had A
never

stream.

more

I had

swelled almost romantic situation witnessed. It was

coolness retYeshing the waters, or by which the hiUs

from the ing raisThe

"

gentlebreezes
cheek
or

murmured
"

at

intei'vals over
wanderer.

meadows,

fanning the
of the

surrounded,
mountains,
of various
note

and and kinds

almost

overhung, by
in
trees

hair"

embowered
; waters

sounded,
cuckoo's distant miserable. the

nightingales sang,
full boomed

and from

the

branches, but the village was

till at last we receded, gradually entered a plainwhere tall grass was waving, and mighty chestnut trees, in and full blossom, spread out their giant Beneath umbrageous boughs. many stood
cars, the

"

|
.

the grotmd, the cross-bar of the pole which and roofed be to principally composed, heavily they support pressing their heads, whilst their drivers: with the same, but not in the neat tidy on of Englishhouses,for the slates were either employed in cc("king, or: manner and seemed to be flung were the sicita in of all sizes, delicious a were enjoying
, "

huts were built of slate stones, of The the neighbouringhills seemed which

tired

oxen

on prostrate

on

in confusion. and

We

heat
stone

and thirst, bench, I entreated

a

spent with down on a sitting

were a

grass the largestof of

and

shade. the

I went up these groups

to one

woman
woman

to

give

me

little water.

The it.

they were
pected exon

in need

and individuals whether of of the Testament

stared at
one ther, ano-

of manded de-

said she would, but

to

added

that she

Jesus

Christ.
and who
was as

They

be

paidfor

Antonio,

then at me, he

and

became hearing this, highly incensed, speakingGreek, Turkish, and Spa-

man,

tillat last a young danglinga long gun in

his hands

demanded reclined,

of

CUAP.

XXIV.]
what

THE the
a

BIBLE
time
"

IN

SPAIN.
for the
extreme

1.39

me

it was, whether I

at
was

tauie

quiring in-

road

Catalan,

speak hoarse," said he, " and are you tall and fair like that family." I sat doAvn amongst them, and said that I
waf!
no

Catalan,but

that I

came

from

cending
for the

was

over

one

of

ledges of

those
so

fiontier
tioned; men-

hills which

I have the

before

often

but

aspect of heaven
Avere

had

blackened,clouds
the west cold wind is
a

rolling rapidly

from
a
"

over

the mountains, and

Sea, many spot in the Western leagues distant, to sell that book at half the
it cost ; and that their souls' welfare price dependedon their beingacquainted with
nature

was

There

storm
a

moaning dismally. travelling through

we took overa

the
"

said air," mounted the

peasant,whom
on

wretched had better

mule,
be
on

it.

I then the

of the New

explained to them Testament, and

the read

and

Asturians He had

the when the

for look-out,
a

it is

in their speeding
scarce

to them

Btared at each

of the Sower. parable They other again, but said that poor, and
rose,

direction." that it seemed

so light, as

they

could not buy mounted, and was going away, saying to them, Peace bide with you." Whereupon the voung
were

vivid and if the whole

were

spoken dazzling
lustre of in

books.

element fiery

concentrated

"

broke around it, atmosphere, and and mountain

man
"

with ! Caspita from

the

gun this is

rose,

and

saying,
the the be
tural na-

the whole filling covering rock, tree, with a glare not to be

us,

my priceI had demanded.

book

odd," hand, and

whole for
a

snatched gave
me

described.
tumbled rode reared

The

mule

of

the the

prostrate,while
himself

horse

peasant I the
some

perpendicularly,

Perhaps
searched charms

the

world

might

in vain could

spot whose
those

and, turning round, dashed down hill at headlong speed,which for

time it was
was lightning
as

rival

of this

plain or

of Bembibre, as it is valley called,Avith its wall of mighty mountains, its spreading and chestnut-trees,

The to check. impossible followed by a peal almost

hollow

but distant, for it sounded terrible, and deep; the hills, however, it from its voice, seemingly ing repeatsummit to summit, till it space. few another
are

its groves
to

of oaks

and

willows,which

caught up
was

clothe the banks the when I

of its stream, a tributary Minho. Tiiie it is, that

lost in interminable

Other of

passedthrough it the candle of heaven was in full splendour, blazing and everything lighted by its rays looked gay, glad, and blessed. Whether
it would
have filled
me

flashes and
in

but slight peals succeeded,

a

comparison,and
The
over

drops

rain descended. seemed

"

body of

the tempest

to be

with

the

same

hundred

families
"

region. weeping

of admiration if viewed beneath said the peasant where that bolt fell," feelings another sky, I will not pretendto dewhen I rejoined for its blaze termine him, blinded it has mule six leagues' but vantages adat certainly possesses ; my distance." which at no time could fail to He was the animal leading for it exhibits all the peaceful by the bridle, as its sight was delight, evidently beauties of an Englishlandscape affected. the friars still in Were blended with something wild and grand,and their nest above he continued, there," I thought within myselfthat he must be I should say that this was their doing, dissatisfied man, for theyare the cause of all the miseries a restless, who, bom
" "

amongst

those At

scenes,

would

wisii
that
a

to

of the land." I raised which he my

over

quitthem.
desired
on
no

the time

I would

have of
a

eyes

in the

direction in up
we

better the

fate than
or prairies,

pointed. Half
whose
a

shepherd on

hunter and

mountain,

way foot

the
were

the hills of Bembibre.

wending,juttedforth
we

black

frightful
altitude,
to
one

Tliree hours
"were

passed away,
situation.

in

another

We

had and mud

crag, which, at overhung the threaten of those in the which

an

immense and

road,
the

seemed

halted and refreshed liorses at Bembibre, a

and and which slate, attention. We
attract

ourselves of village
were now

destruction. of ledges pictureof the the

It resembled

rocky mountains

littleto possessed
as-

terrified

Ueluge, up to have fugitives

140

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
the

ICHAP. farther

xxrv.

scrambled

from the eager pursuitof the savage and tremendous billows,and from whence they gaze down in horror, "whilst above them rise stillhigherand
to giddierheights,

againstit, on

side of the

side of valley,rose the perpendicular the rival hill, which, to a considerable

extent

the light, flungits intercepting

which Built
on

they
the

seem

black the

shadow
pass,

unable

to

climb.

very

end of upper it in mysterious involving

over

the

Emerging from the centre edge of this crag stood an edifice, darkness. of this gloom,with thunderingsound, seemingly devoted to the pui-poses of white with foam, and dashed of a 1 could discern the spire river, as religion, with it huge stones and wall itself bearingalong a church high over rearing
and roof.
"

That

is the

house

of the

branches Sil cradle

Virgin of the Rocks," said the peasant, " but full of friars, and it was lately they have
inmates
now

of trees,for it was hurrying to the ocean in the heart of the

the from

wild its

Asturian

been
are

thrust out, and the only I owls and ravens."

a

and hills, rains. Hours

now

probably swollen

by

the It

cent re'

that their life in such replied,

bleak,
been of

exposed
very have with
"

abode

could

not

have

enviable,as
incurred cold. and
warm
were
"

in winter

great risk of

they must perishing

again passedaway. in the midst and we were night, our woodlands, feeling way, for the
was
was so

darkness

great that
a

could

By

no

means," said he,

see scarcely

the

lengthof
The

yard before
seemed
a

they had
to

the

braseros wine which

for their best of wood and the best of chimneys, them

not at

my

horse's head. and would his

animal and

uneasy,

frequently stop short,

utter

their

meals,

prick

the

most

sparing.
convent

up mournful

ears,

low

Moreover, they had

another

of sheet Flashes illumined the black frequently lightning

whine.

to which down in the vale yonder, could retire at their pleasure." On

askinghim
to

the

reason

of his
'

over they sky,and flunga momentary glare the sound No our interrupted path. my except the slow antipathy stillness of the night,

'

the

been

that he he replied, friars, that they their vassal,and he the

had had

tramp of the horses' hoofs, and

the
some me

sionally occa-

deprivedhim
of what below

every year of the ilower

in possessed.Discoursing reached a village we just left me, a house

croaking of frogs from I now bethought poolor morass. in that I was Spain, the chosen
of the
"

this manner,

land and and We the broke

two

fiends how

"

assassination

having

he convent, where first pointedout to me

plunder,
unarmed

and

wanderers

two tired easily might become

the door, of stone, with an image over also belonged to which, he said,once

their victims.
at

last cleared

the

woodlands,
distance,

the canalla
The
to reach
sun

above. (rabble) was and, eager fast, setting I had which dewas
on

and, after
horse

proceeding
gave
a a

short A

joyous neigh,and
trot.

where Villafranca, and resting,

into

smart

barkingof
we
\

tennined

dogs
seemed
or

reached speedily
to

my
we

ears, and

and a half, I still distant three leagues made halt at this place. The road no
was now

be

approachingsome
efiect
were

town

village.In

close to dis"

down of

rapidand
in
was

crooked
a a

which the
narrow

tei-minated which beneath

a

about town scent, Cacabelos, dea Villafranca. from tant a t valley,

five miles

bottom

long

and
a

bridge;
two

it rolled
wide

eleven It was near reflected that it would

to

at

and night,
more

I I
pedient ex-

be far

river, descendingfrom
was

reach vulsion conin a of darkness the I looked of nature. to all the horrors up mind road. and unknown sides. the hills both and on My on lonely pass, this point;but made but standing was Far above soon on right, up on my without the I reckoned forth bold and clear,and catching my host, for at the which I to enter first posada the Convent last rays of the sun, was attempted be aceomtold that could I not whilst directly was of the Precipices, we over here

mountains, for the cleft, probablyby some

tween pass bechain

tany
than
to

in this

place till the

morning

attempt at present to Villafranca, exposing ourselves

CHAP.

XXIV.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
and listened

141 It attentively.
a

and still less our horses,as At the full of water. stable was the and there but were second, two, I was answered from the window by a gruff of in tliewords : voice, Scripture nearl}^ " is now Trouble not : the door me shut,and my children are with me in arise to let you in." bed; I cannot desire to Indeed,we had no particular

modated.

hand,
seemed and

to be that of their way forcing

person

or

sons per-

branches through

heard

brushwood. It soon and I ceased, feet on the road. It was the short staggering kind of tread of people a carrying nearly \ery heav y substance, and for their strength, I much too I heard the hurried breathing thought

enter,

it appeared There a wretched was a as hovel, of men over-fatigued. thoughthe poor horses pawed piteouslyshort pause, duringwhich I conceived in the middle of the the door, and seemed to crave theywere resting against road ; then the stamping admittance. recommenced^ choice but to resume when I until it reached the other side, ^^'e had now no which heard similar amidst doleful way to Villafranca, a our again rustling tant, branches ; it continued told was for some a short leaguediswe were time, and it and died a a gradually though proved league away. foimd it no I continued my road, to half. We musing on what easy matter bewildered and for had the we were justoccurred, town, formingconjectures quit and could not The as to the cause. lightning amongst its labyrinths, and I saw that I its flashing, find the outlet. A lad about eighteen resumed mountains. the tall black was howevs^r, persuaded, approaching by mise prowas, upon This nocturnal journey endured of a peseta, to guide us : wheresc ing he led us by many to a turnings longthat I almost lost all hope of reachwhich he told us to cross, and the town, and had closed my bridge, ejes
to follow

the

denly Sudthe horse. distance before from us. a voice at a slight ever, roared out, " Quienvive i" for I had We followed his directions, me not,howwithout a suspicion that he might at last found my to Villafranca. way The had settled from the be deceiving It us. night proceeded sentry in the half soldiers it that of those darker down so was suburb, one singular upon us, called half t o INliguolets, impossible distinguish guerillas, any object, however had become who in generalemployed by the are nigh. The lightning faint and rare. We heard more Spanish government to clear the roads

Villafranca ; he his fee,hastened

that of road,which was then,having received

in

on doze, thoughI stilltrudged

chanically, me-

leading

the the

of trees,and occasionally of robbers. rustling which of last Espaha" sound, barking dogs,
*'

and we were soon m ceased, the midst of night and silence. My the or horse,either from weariness, badness of the road, frequently bled stum; whereupon I dismounted,and left soon leadinghim by the bridle, Antonio far in the rear. I had proceeded in this manner a considerable way, when a circumstance occurred of a character well suited to the time and place. I was ! againamidst trees and bushes, wlien the horse,stopping short, nearly

however,

wtiere

lie

I gave the usual answer, and went up to the place stood. After a littleconversation,
on

I sat down

stone,

awaiting

the arrival of Antonio, who was longin making his appearance. On his arrival, him on I asked if any one had passed that he had the road, but he replied or rather the seen nothing. The night,
was morning,

stillvery dark, thougha ally occasionof the moon was small corner the way visible. On our inquii'ing directed us to the gate, the Miguelet lowed. which we foldown a street to the left, could we The street was steep, soon pulledme back. I know not how it see no gate,and our progress was We came over was, but fear suddenly me, stopped by houses and wall. which, though in darkess and in soli- knocked at the gatesof two or three of stories of I was these houses, (in the upper lude, I had not felt before. for the about to urge the animal were, forward, which lights biu-uing,) v-hen I heard
a

noise

at

my

right

purpose of

but set right, being

we

M'"?re

142

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

XXIV.

either horrid of
our

disregarded squalling
houses and Don and and I of dark

or

not

heard. from the

voice old had

man

demanded

who that
were

we

were.

The
travellers of
at
"

cats,

tops

replied,
who
cannot

two

the

corners,

saluted

arrived
"

in

need

ing. lodgthis

ears,

thought

of and

the his

night squire
amongst

rival ar-

be said

disturbed the
woman

of

Quixote
their
streets

at

time will

of be

night," wanting
in the She but but and from I

they
is go the
no

Toboso,
the

vain for
we

search the
saw

supper,

and

there
must

deserted At voices of
a

palace light
at

of and

nothing
elsewhere."

house;
was

they going
to

Dulcinea. heard side horses which who

length
in
a

shut

cottage
ditch. called

the

other the

window,
supper, ourselves that
a

cried
a

that

we

wanted

kind
we

of

Leading
at

merely
horses

resting
that
we

place
had
were come

for

over,
was

the

door,
man,

"

opened by
he

by
his

an

aged
to

day

Astorga,
"

and is
"

dying ing speakthat clock-

appeared
as

dress

be

with ?" is the

fatigue.
cried the of

Who

that

baker,

indeed
for his

proved,
up him he
to
at

which
so

counted ac-

woman.

Surely

being

late
us

an

voice
from

Gil,

the

German

hour. way
narrow

On into the

begging
town,
at

show
us

the

maker old

Pontevedra.
;

Welcome,
are

led
of likewise

up his

very

companion
time,
sorry I The
a

you
own

come

at

the

alley
that the he

the would

end

cottage,
conduct

right
I but
am

for I admit

my have you
was

is

out

of

order.

saying
us

kept
in
a

you moment."

waiting,

to

posada.
alley
to

will

The

led be of the

directly

to

what
at

peared apa

window

slammed

to,
the in

sently previces cre-

market-place,
our

light
the
we

shone

through
a

corner

house

which After
was

guide
long
and

stopped
pause
a
an

of

door,
were

key

turned

the

and upper

knocked. window

lock,

and

admitted.

opened,

female

H4

THE threads A
car, drawn

BIBLE the

IN for

SPAIN.
a

[chap. XXV.
which
to

small

as

to

soem

along
by

place in
Close

obtain

ment. refresh-

mountain

side. wheel

oxen,

by

is

creepinground
nearer

the
over

yon airy eminence ; is actually hanging

which, from
mule the We
or

the gate stood a building the circumstance of a

a

two

and

wretched concluded

pony
was

the

be. proved several soldiers were ing lollon againyou turn to watch their progress, heaps of coarse hay, with which which the objects of your anxiety have disapthe much resembled a peared. place,
as
:

descent ; giddiness seizes drawn. withbrain,and the eye is rapidly A cloud

the horrid

standingbefore posada,
entered

it, we

in effect it

to

intervenes,and when

Still the

more

narrow

becomes

stable, was

half

filled.

All

were

ceedingly ex-

and very are fellows, ill-looking you yourself and its turns more toiling, frequent. dirty. They were conversing with You distance of each other in a strange soundingdiahave lect, a alreadycome still one-third of the which I supposed to be Gallegan. two leagues,and remains unsurmounted. You are did theyperceive when ascent us two Scarcely still hear three of them, starting from their not yet in Galicia ; and you or and unpolished, it is couch, ran Castilian, coarse they up to Antonio, whom cabins welcomed with much affection, true, spoken in the miserable calling which him companheiro. How nooks came placed in the sequestered you to in I demanded know these ? in route. men by you pass your French Ces messieurs before we reached the sumsont mit : Shortly presqite
" " "

path along which

of the pass thick mists began to envelope zling the tops of the hills,and a drizrain descended. said Antonio, are call brttima ; and
" "

tons
"

de

ma

he connoissance,"
nous,
ce

replied,

et,

entre

sont

des

These the

mists,"
there is

vauriens and eye, who time ago

they are
That

almost fellow

ve'ritables all robbers

with than
one

what

Gallegans

assassins. is the from

it is said

a escaped corporal,

little
pected sus-

never

safe enough of and in his is placed here own frequently country, ; lived in houses where the domestics to guard the frontier, as you see ? but in part Gallegans, which maitre ; on count acwe mon were must treat them civilly, I know not a little of their ways, we must give them wine, or they will and even maitre somethingof their language." be offended. I know them, mon Is the opinion which I know them. Here, hostess, bring you have formed
mon

in their country-." any lack of them visited the "Have ever you " Non, country before ?" I demanded. maitre but I have

Madrid,

more

being concerned he is poisoning ; but

of

in

an

affair

"

"

of them the

at
"

all in their

favour
mon

quired. ?" I inan maitre

;

azumbre Whilst his

of wine." Antonio
was

By

no

means,

engaged in
horees

ing treat-

clownish and general seem ing simple,yet they are capable of deceivmen

in

I friends,
was

led the

to

the

the most
as

for

the

women,
same

clever filou of Paris ; and it is impossible to house Senora with

stable ; this or whatever stable and I

was was

it
a

through the house, inn, might be called. The

shed,
in which
to

wretched On

live in the
wait upon

them,
are

more

the horses told

sank

their fetlocks in mud for barley, inquiring

was now

if they are especially the

;

Camareras,

and

puddle.

they

nually conti-

that I

in

Galicia,

the

putes breeding dissensions and disin the house, and telling tales of other domestics. I have already
or

where

barley was

not

and was very in lieu of it Indian the horses There

was
no

u^sed for der, provenI was offered rare.

com,
to

ever, which, howhesitation. had mud

a
"

lost two

three excellent
to

situations in

ate straw

without be

Madrid, solely owing

chambermaids. the We
on our

these
now

Gallegan
come

coarse

We

have
to

to

frontier, mon
this entered the

maitre, for such

be." which -village,

the hay, half green, beijig By trampling abou.t in the stable my horse which I searched
a soon

substitute. of the Is there

"

conceive

village

lost

shoe, for
I manded dewho

stood

in vain. the

the summit horses much

of the mountiiiu, and as and ourselves were by this

we fatigued,

blacksmith of
a

in

? village

shock-headed

fellow

time

looked

round

officiatedas ostler.

CMAP.

XXV,]
"

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
we

145

Si, Seiihor ; but I suppose have broughthorse-shoes with you, you that be or largebeast of yours cauuot shod in tliisvillage.
What Mijself.
"

Ostler.

find there what

wanted.

He

added,

however, that

the

greatest part of the

do

you

mean?

Is

the blacksmith
'

imequal to his trade? he Cannot put on a horse-shoe ? Ostler. Si, Senhor ; he can put on
"

soldiers were mounted the on cavalry ponies of the country, the mortality amongst the horses brought from the level ground into Galicia beingfrightful. ten leagues distant: Lugo was
there

seemed, however,
at

to

be

no

medy re-

1 a

if horse-shoe,
are

there

no

; but horse-shoes in Galicia, at

you

give it

him

I least in these parts. Is it not customary then to Mtjself. shoe the horses in Galicia ?
"

and, having patience, refreshed ourselves, ing leadwe proceeded, horses by the bridle. omWe level ground, now on were being the of of the highest one upon very top
mountains in Galicia.
a

hand

but

Ostler.
"

Senhor, there
are

are

no

horses

This Before
was

level

tinued con-

III

in

there Galicia, who but

[those
none

only ponies ; and and bring horses to Galicia, began madmen ever do, must bring crossed
of

for about
to

league,when
we

we

descend.
which plain, and

had

the

overgrown
we

shoes to fit them ; only shoes to be found here. are What JSIijself.
"

ponies

with armed

furze

bnishwood,

came

suddenly

do you

that

only madmen
"

by saying bring horses to

mean

half-a-dozen fellows, upon with muskets, and wearing a

We
at firstsupposed

tattered uniform.

them Galicia ? to be banditti : they were, ever, howstand Ostler. Senhor,no horse can had who only a party of soldiers, been detached from the station we had the food of Galicia and the mountains of Galicia long,without to escort one of the provinfalling sick; justquitted cial and then, if he does not die at will cost you in farriers more
once,

he he
use

posts or
further small

than
no

is worth

a besides,

horse tenth

is of

couriers. morous claThey were but offered us no cigars, to incivility. Having no cigars for gave them in lieu thereof
a

here,and
broken

cannot

perform amongst
the

the

bestow,I

ground
a

part of the

service which

Senhor, By-the-by,
yours

little pony mare can. I perceive that horse ;

see
now on

of piece were looking

to escort
us

silver. Two very

to

eager

of the worst to be permitted

is

an

entire

out

of

that you twenty ponies lof Galicia, nineteen males ;sold.

are

the roads

sent down

Senhor,your

the are mares; into Castile to be horse will become

the village Nogales, where we proposedto spend the night. means By no permit them, mon maitre," said Antonio, they are two famous assassins of my acquaintance ;
" "

I have us."

known

them

at

Madrid

in the

heated on our roads, and will catch the there is no for which bad glanders,
be mad must remedy. Senhor, a man to bringany horse to Galicia,but twice mad to bring an entero, as you have

first ravine

plunder declined their civilly offer and departed. You seem to be with all the cut-throats in acquainted
I therefore
"

theywill shoot and

Galicia,"said
"

I to

Antonio, as
two

we

scended de-

done.
"

the hill.

strange country this of Galicia,"

went
to

With

respectto those
"

fellows,"
when I

said I, and
It

consult

tonio. he with An-

replied,
as

knew is

them

lived

cook
,

in the friends

the ostler
lo the

appearedthat the information of Q true with regard were was literally

horse-shoe of the
; at

who

familyof General a Gallegau: they

of the repostero.

sworn

least the whom

we

smith blackducted con-

All the

to village,

inabithe animal, confessed his lity that to shoe him, having none would fit his hoof : he said it was very should be obliged that we to probable lead the animal to Lugo, which being
\

in Madrid know each Gallegans other,whether high or low makes no difference ; there, at least, theyare all and assist each other on good friends, all imaginable occasions ; and if there in a house,the be a Gallegan domestic kitchen is
sure as

to

be

filled with cook

his

cavalry station,we

might perhaps countrymen,

the

frequently

146

THE
to
to

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
in
one

[chap. sxr.
and the
same

knows
contrive which and

his cost, for may have

they generally spoken

for himself

manner,

and eat up any little perquisites reserved

he

family."
less than
we

that very frequently they do not The understand each other. of worst this language that everybody on first is, it thinks hearing that is notliing
more

Somewhat

half way
a

do"v"-n

the mountain

reached

On observing a in the we shop, stopped, for the horse, a shoe who, for bewilder and puzzlehim, causinghim finding of one, want was rapidly becoming to misunderstand everything that is found lame. To our said if that he we were whereas, great joy rant ignototally ; in possession the smith was of one single of the tongue, he would ally occasionwhich time previously some horse-shoe, givea shrewd guess at what was he had found the do when This, meant, as I myself frequently upon way. after undergoing much and I hear hammering Basque spoken, though the only the Galword which I know of that language is was alteration, pronouncedby Vulcan be of to capable serving jaimguicoa." legan As the night closed in I retired to ; in lieu of a better ; whereupon we again and continued four or I remained five i scent. deour mounted, bed, where slowly 1 and restless about hours, tossing ; the still Nofever Leon arrived at of to my sunset we ere clinging Shortly sys- ! situate in It a tem. was narrow considerably gales, a hamlet past mid- j into i at the foot of the mountain, in nightwhen, justas I was sinking valley aroused by a confused had spent the day. a slumber, I was which we traversing and the glare of noise in the village, could be more than picturesque Notliing dow the appearance of this spot : steep hills, lights through the lattice of the winwhere I lay; presently of the room clad with groves and forests of thickly

lage. easy than to understand vilit, as words are blacksmith's he has continually occurring which faint hope of heard before ; but these merely serve to small

chesnuts,surrounded

it

on

has just arrived in Madrid to Coruna a ing purlattended by a considerable tolerablythe village, number of traand commodious vellers. escort,and an immense posada. large between and but felt The I was road, fatigued, they say, languid littledesire to sleep. Antonio cooked here and Lugo, is infested with robbers i and Carlists, who are our committing all supper, or rather his own, for I had kinds atrocities let I the of sat door, no by us, therefore, appetite. gazing ; and avail ourselves of the opportunity, above me, at the wood-covered heights find shall of the the ourwaters to-morrow or on rivulet,occawe sionally by midday these selves safe in Lugo." On hearing to the people who listening and of bed the i n about I words, instantly house, conversing lounged sprang out Antonio the country dialect. What to pr( a telling strange dressed myself, with its halftongue is the Gallegan, pare the horses with all speed. and in the mounted We were soon accent, and with singinghalf-whining its confused jumble of words from many amidst a confused throngof men street, of a couple from the Spanish and quadrupeds. The light but chiefly languages, borne before and Portuguese ! of flambeaus,which Can you understand were
ran a

itselfwas almost the village in trees,and close beside it brook. Here

we

every side embowered

entered Antonio, half dressed.

"

Mon

maitre," said he,

"

the

grand post from

found

"

this conversation who

me.
"

?" I demanded

shone of Antonio, the courier,

on

the

arms

had

by
mon

this time

drawn seemingly rejoined soldiers,

plied re-

of several up on either

I cannot, " I have

maitre," he
words in

acquired at
the

various kitchens

times
where

great many
domestics I have

amongst the

side of the road ; the darkness,however, jects obfrom distinguishing me prevented very clearly. The courier himself
was

Gallegan

mounted and

on

quiteunable
conversation. gans

officiated as cook, but am to understand any long

I have
no

before

behind

littleshaggy pony; mense imhim two were

or

portmanteaus,
the ends of which For about

leather

sacks,
the
ao

heard
two

the Galleit

nearlytouched
a

say that in

is villages

ground.

quarter of

CHAP.

XXV.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

147

much for the most hour there was hubbub, shouting, day ; it was part partitioned of which peinto small at the end and trampling, which fields, riod were the order was given to proceed. plantedwith maize. At the distance had we left the village when of every two three leagues we or Scarcely the flambeaus
we were were

and extinguished,
were

changed
where The

our

left in almost

for

time we some and trees,as was

of leaves
on

total darkness ; amongst woods the rustling

was

escort, at stationed a

some

village

detachment.

were villages

evident from

of

wretched

blage mostly an assemcabins; the roofs

thatched,dank, and moist, and !My horse were not covered with rank neighedfearfully, unfrequently very uneasy himself bolt There fore bewere raising occasionally dung-hills right. vegetation. upwas

every side.
and

"

If your
a

horse

is not

more

the and naked

doors, and

no

lack

of

pools
were

cavalier,we quiet,
shoot

shall be voice in disturbs would

"

to obliged
an

puddles. Immense
children.
The

swine

him," said
"

Andaluwhole
a

stalking about, intermingled with

cabins interior of the with their external corresponded filledwith filth

sian accent
cavalcade."

;
"

he That four

the be

pity,

I replied, for sergeant,"

dovese
used
to

by

the
"

he is a Corsides;he is not

appearance : theywere and misery.

We this barbarous reached Lugo about two hours is a Cordovese," past noon: during the last two or country." Oh, said the voice ; " vaya, I did not know I became three leagues so overpowered with weariness, that ; I am from Cordova myself. Pothe result of want of brecito ! let me pat him that I was sleepand my late illness, yes, I know by his coat that he is my countryman : continually dozing in my saddle,so that I took but littlenotice of what shoot him, indeed ! vaya, I would fain devil who would dare was see the Gallegan passing. We put up at a large him. Barbarous country, ?o to harm posada without the wall of the town, built upon a steep bank, and commandlo creo: bread neither oil nor ing olives, I an extensive view of the country I nor barley. You have been at Cor[ dova. Shortlyafter our Vaya ; obligeme, cavalier, by towards the east. the rain began to descend ir" this cigar." I taking arrival, and continued In this manner mission we without interproceededfor torrents, the

ways

of

he

"

f
'

several but

hours, up hill and

a

down

dale,
which

during
was,

the

next
me

two

at generally

of regret,as I passed the entire source soldiers who time in and almost time sang patriotic I bed, songs, breathing may say in slumber. attachment the of love and On to the the third evening young I and of detestation the arose. Queen Isabel, day much bustle in the house, There was One of the stanzas ; grim tyrant Carlos.
'

very slow pace. The escorted us from time to

however, to

but

days, slight

which

reached

my

ears
"

ran

something

in the
"

: following style

Don

Carlos is a hoary churl. Of cruel heart and cold ; But Isabel 's a harmless girl, Of only six years old."

.At last the day began to break, and I found myself amidst a train of two or three hundred people, but some on foot, the greater part mounted, either on
mnles
or

by the arrival of a familyfrom theycame in a largejaunting escorted car, by four carabineers. The rather familywas numerous, consisting of a father, son, and eleven daughters, the eldest of whom mig^htbe about A eighteen. shabby-looking fellow, and dressed in a jei'kin wearing a tic. high-crownedhat, attended as domesing, They arrived very wet and shiverCoruna ;
and all seemed very

caused

the pony

mares

I could not

disconsolate,
was a

horse a distinguish single

own were

except my

and

A few Antonio's. scattered thinly along the

was

the father,who especially soldiers lookingmiddle-aged man, road. be accommodated

"

wellwe

"Can

?" he demanded

in

The country

but less mounof voice of the man tainous hilly, gentle and picturesque than the one be accommodated can we which we had traversed the preceding fonda?"
L

the house ]

in this
2

148

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. departed
these
as we

XXV,

"

Certainly,
other
"

your house does

worship,"
is your ?"

replied
How
quire re-

to

any

person, his

with

the

men

the many

our

large.

under
"

command.
can

apartments
for

worship replied

Who

strangers
sat
one

be in and

?"
a

said

your will
be

family

to

the

host,
open the

together
side,
front of

large
which

"

One

sufl"cient,"

the

corridor

on

stranger.
The and
moment

occupied
host,
who upon
at
was
a a

entire

the
"

house.
but

gouty

"

personage
for
at
a

know
escort
some

not,"
I

he

replied, they
are

by

leaned

stick,

looked then
not

their

suppose official

people

the

traveller,

every

holding
are

situation.

They
and
Andabe

member the

of

his

family,
without

forgetting
any farther led the
taining con-

not
more

of

this

province,
suspect
them

however,
to

domestic,
than
to

and,
a

than

comment

slight shrug,
of three I
an

lusiaus." In
a

way

the
two

door
or

apartment
flock had and open,
serve.

few

minutes

the

door
the

of

the

beds,

and
to

apartment
was

occupied
and the in cruise

by
his

strangers

which
as

on

my

arrival

objected
dious; incommoand

opened,
a

domestic hand.

appeared,
"

being

small,
this
he

dark,

bearing
manded deSenor
can

Pray,
where

flung
it would

Patron,"
I

demanded oil in
want

he,

"

whether
"

buy
"

some

?" the
to

It

is rather
"

small,"

replied
that

the

"

tleman genthe but

There

is oil if you is

house,"

replied
any that
;

think,

however,

it will

host, if, as
shall find

purchase
suppose

do."
"

probable,
a

you

am

glad
we

of

it," replied
any

the

host. for and

we

gain
some

cuarto
over

by selling it,you
the way. the
on

"

Shall

make of

preparations worship

will I

It

is when

as

the

supper
?" I
"

your

suspected,"
man are

continued

host,
his
are

family
"

the tliank
my
own

had

departed
they
all call sup.

errand,
about
on

No,
;

you,"
domestic

replied
will
we

the
pare pre-

"

they
make

Andalusians,
what

and

stranger
the need The and themselves

to

gaspacho,
Oh,
! of the
ness mean-

slight key

refreshment

are

in

which

they
of here

will

of."
was

these
to

Andalusians suck the in the poor the

they

are

delivered
whole

to

the

tic, domes-

come

vitals

Galicia,
the

the in

family
apartment

ensconced
:

and

yet
of
a

envy
cuarto

innkeeper
oil which I tell that and will
:

their
was

before,
escort

gain

they
you fellow

however,
were

this

effected,

the

require
one

for

their

gaspacho.
when bread

dismissed,

the

principal
a

carabineer The for in

an

thing,
and with is
none

master,
demands the in oil

being
man

presented
stood half

with

peseta.

returns,
to

garlic
tell him has the
water

surveying
a

the
as

gratuity
it then

mix

oil,
the

about

minute,
his

glittered
with upon

there

house
so

as

he may

tlie

palm

of

hand;
he
a

bought
bread for

the and that

abroad,
ay,

he

abrupt heel, and

Vamos! without

turned

his

garlic;
matter."

and

the

word

of

salutation

too,

149

CHAPTER

XXVI.

Lugo" The Baths" Squadron Sale

"

A of

Testaments
"

Family History" Miguelets The Three Heads" A Farrier" English The Coruna Recognition" Luigi Piozzi" The tion"A Specula" " "

Blank

Prospect
a

John

Moore.

At

Lugo

I found I

to whom

wealthybookseller, ancient medicinal baths,which stand the southern side of the river Minho, mendation on brought a letter of recomneath He willingly which from Madrid. creeps through the valley beplaceis a dark
The in this Minho and sullen stream, with and thickly wooded high,precipitous, the town.

undertook Lord

The books. the sale of my feeble favour ertions exto deigned my in his cause at Lugo. I brought

bauks. Testaments, all of which thirty One the companied of in one were eveningI visited the baths,acbishop day ; disposed the bookseller. of the place, for Lugo is an episcopal by my friend for himself, They had been built over warm two springs copies see, purchasing instead which flow into the river. standing Notwithand ex-friars, whilst several priests their ruinous condition, the example of their of following they with sick, rive the crowded brethren Avere at Leon, by persecuting hoping to debenefit from the waters, which are work, spokewell of it and recommended much its perusal. I was grievedthat still famed for their sanative power. exhibited a strange specbooks was hausted, These exof these stock patients tacle holy my there being a great demand as, wrapped in flannel gowns much ; and had I been able to supply them, resembling shrouds, theylayimmersed in the have been waters the quantity tepid amongst disjointed might quadruple aud sold during the few days that I constones, and overhimg with steam reek. tinned at Lugo. Tliree or four days after my arrival Lugo contains about six thousand It is situated on inhabitants. which, as lofty I was seated in the corridor, the ancient I have is and defended observed, already occupied by ground, The entire front of the house. It possesses no very remarkable walls. sky thither and edifice,

is a small

itself the cathedral church In the centre mean building. is the

was

unclouded, and

the

sun

shone

most

principal square, a cheerful place, not surrounded by light with those heavy cumbrous buildings which the Spaniardsboth in ancient
of the town

around.

gloriously, enlivening every object Presentlythe door of the opened,and

the strangerswere forth walked the

apartment in which

lodged of whole family,with the exception absent the father, was and modern times have encircled their who, I presumed, The shabby domestic plazas. It is singularenough that on business. the Lugo, at present a placeof very little broughtup the rear, and on leaving locked the door, should at one importance, periodhave apartment, carefully been the capital of Spain: yet such it and secured the key in his pocket.Tlie and the eleven daughters in the time of the Romans, who, as were one son was not much theywere a people guidedby all dressed remarkablywell : the boy had doubtless very excellent somethingafter the Englishfashion,in caprice, which for the preference reasons they jacketand trousers, the young ladies in the white: the to they were, spotless upon locality. gave w ith in There remains Roman a are looking whole, very good family, many but the vicinity of this place, the most markable dark reeyes and olive complexions, of which are the ruins of the the eldest daughter was remarkably

150

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
to
see

[chap.XXVI,
the and now and novillos, In a word, sir, we

handsome.

They arrangedthemselves
of the

went

corridor,the upon down domestic shabby sitting amongst

the benches them without whatever.

then to the opera. diversions had our much

and felt at
his

our

ease

so worship was so, any ceremony of purchasing a thinking They continued for some time in silence, actually pony who is teen, fourfor disconsolate looks with the the gazing young gentleman, upon learn to ride now and must houses of the suburb and the dark walls or

that

of the town, until the eldest daughter, senorita as she was called, broke or

never.

Cavalier,
the
no

the his

ministrywas
comers,

changed, and
were

silence with an " Ay Dios mio!" Domestic. Ai/ Dios mio! we have found our way to a pretty country.
"

they
was us

who prived worship,dehim of his situation. Cavalier, from that blessed removed us
new

friends

to

can Myself.I really

"

very
nature most

bad the

nothingso in the country, which is by and in all richest the Spain,

see

country of Granada, where

fourteen
to

our

salary
sent

thousand

and rials,

Galicia,to

abundant.

True

it is that

the

Lugo, where
to
serve

this fatal town of his worship is compelled

of the inhabitants are generality poor, but they themselves

edly wretchare

to

blame, and
a

the country. Domestic. Cavalier,the country is horrible one, say nothingto the contrary. the young We are all frightened,
not
"

the ladies,
even

and mygentleman, self; young and his worshipis frightened,

for ten is thousand, which maintain in insufficient to us our quite former comforts. Good bye,I trow, to bull fimcions,and novillos,and the Good bye to the hope of a opera. the for valier, horse gentleman. Cayoung hold I grow desperate: your tongue,for God's sake ! for I can talk
no

to this country come says that we are sins. It rains every day,and for our this is almost the first time that we have seen the sun since our arrival. It and one rains continually, cannot step out

more.

without and

being up

to the ankles not

in
a

I no longer this history hearing the wondered that was receiver-general eager to save a cuarto in the purchase of the oil for the gaspacho of himself and family of eleven one daughters,

On

fango;

there is then, again,

son, and

house to be found. understand Myself.I scarcely

"

We be lack you. of houses His then about

arose

There
in this

appears

to

no

a domestic. week at Lugo, and staid one directed our steps to Conina, twelve leagues distant. We

neighbourhood.
"

before

daybreakin
company

order to avail of the

we

Domestic.

Excuse

me,

sir.

ourselves

of the escort of

general
travelled
was

a house, for worship hired yesterday which fourteen he engaged to pay senorita the when saw but daily pence ;

post, in whose

upwards
much

six

leagues. There
which

talk of

robbers,and flying ties paraccount

it,she wept, and said it

but
a so

was

no

house,

on of the factious,

considerable. At the our was escort worship paid one hogstye, his bargain. distance of five or six leaguesfrom and renounced rent day's Fourteen pence a day! why, in our Lugo, our guard, in lieu of regular for consisted of a body of about that have we can a soldiers, palace country, had all the apfifty M iguelets.They pearance money. but of a finer body of do From what banditti, country Myself. you ferocious fellows I never saw. come? They in the prime of life, all men Domestic. Cavalier,you appear to were and I will tell mostlyof tall stature,and of Herculean be a decent gentleman, from and limbs. lusia, Andabrawn We are They wore huge our history. you last year and his worship was whiskers, and walked with a fanfarofor Granada : his salary nadingair,as if they courted danger, receiver-general and with fourteen thousand rials, respect despisedit. In every was which contrived to live very comthey stood in contrast to the soldiers we hitherto escorted us, who had who the bull funcions modiously attending feeble boys from sixteen to were mere there no were we if bulls, or regularly,
his
"

"

"

152

THE his members

but
"

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXVI.

and fixed, is
" "

no

remedy
for
must
a

rigid. There said I. bleeding,"

Run You

"

take from

farrier." The farrier came. bleed the horse," I shouted ; of blood." him an azumbre
at the
"

The made

farrier looked for the

"

animal,and
are

bay of Coruiia,in which, even at could distinguish a league, we three or four immense ships Can these vessels ridingat anchor. belongto Spain?" I demanded of myself. In the very next however, village,
the distance of
"

of the

door.
want

Where
"

you he
"

we

were

informed,that
an

the

ceding pre-

going?" I demanded.
But
we

Home,"
here."
;
answer

plied. re"

evening
arrived,for
say.
" "

you

what

had English squadron could reason nobody continued

our

know
on

you do," was I that account

his
am

and But

However,"

formant, insome

going."

"

they

have

doubtless

bleed you must " die." I know

"

but him

I but

These foreigners horse, or he will design upon Galicia. farthe ruin of Spain." he will," said the rier, are We put up in what is called the Calle him." will not bleed the
"

"

Why
What

?" I demanded. under

"

I will not condition." is it !" that

Real, in

an a a

bleed
"

one

keptby
person,

is that ?"

What

fonda, or posada, thick, short, comical-looking Genoese by birth. He was

excellent

of gold." " Run an ounce pay me case," up stairs for the red morocco said I to Antonio. The case was you

married to
been His

a tall, pered ugly,but good temhe had Basque woman, by whom blessed with a son and daught er.

brought;
with

I took out

largefleam,and
a

wife,however,
now

had

it seems

of late
to

the assistance of The

stone, drove
of the

it

summoned

all her female

relations froio

into the

principal arteiy

horse's

who Guipuscoa,

filled the house

blood at firstrefused to flow, the number leg. it began to with much at last, rubbing, and then to stream trickle,
so

of nine, officiating bermaids, as chamcooks, and scullions : they

it continued horse

for Hold
ten

half him

an

hour.

"

The
"

is

mon fainting,
"

maitre," said Antonio. ther up," said I, and in anominutes we will stop the vein."
the up

ugly,but good natured, of tongue. volubility Throughout the whole day the house resounded with their excellent Basque
were

and

all very of immense

and
on

I closed
so

vein, and

whilst

doing
face,
1"

very bad Castilian. The Genoese, for which the contrary, spokelittle,

I looked
"

into the farrier's

archingmy
muttered
"

eyebrows.
! what
an

Carracho

evil wizard

the farrier

If I had

liim." We
the he saved

as away. stick my knife here I would bled the horse againduring

he walked

a good reason assigned ; thirty years in Spain,and his own had forgotten out languagewithw hich he Spanish, acquiring spoke very imperfectly.

he

might

have

he had

lived

We

found

Coruiia full of bustle and

the arrival of the

which night, him.

eat

second his food.

lieve bleedingI be-

life, owing to

Towards

morning

began to
The
next

English the following ever, day,howsquadron. boimd for the it departed, being
On
Mediterranean
matters
on a

day we departedfor Cohorses by the bi'idle: our runa, leading and our walk the day was magnificent, We delightful. passedalong beneath
tall short could around.

short

whereupon cruise,
to their

returned instantly
five hundred from

usual

course.
a

I had
at

depot of
Coruna,
to

ments Testait
was

umbrageous trees,
from Betanzos of distance be
more

which
to

skirted within
a

which

the road

Coruiia.
of the

smilingand

tlian the

book obtained a tolerable sale seven dance growing in abunin the vicinity of the villages or eight copies per day on the average. these whilst millions Some people, on perusing perhaps, passed, through which we will be tempted to exclaim, their tall details, of maize plants upreared their broad green stalks and displayed These are small matters, and scarcely After walking worthy of being mentioned." But let leaves in the fields.
"

appearance Vines were

supply the principal Nothing towns of Galicia. Immediatelyon my arrival I published cheerful according advertisements, and the usual practice, to my country
my

intention

"

about three hours,

we

obtained

vicAv

such

bethink

them

that

till within

CHAP.

XXVI.]
months I

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

153

me at the door of a shop near previousto the time of standing inn. He appeared the t o to the ence existcontiguous am speaking, very with face about a be miknown almost of the Gospelwas sixty-five, pale He and was in Spain,and that it must remarkably red nose. necessarily dressed in loose a he a difficult task to induce a people green great coat, in in his his mouth a longclaypipe, was who read very little, like the Spaniards, hand a long painted stick. like the New ment, Testaa work to purchase is your portance are Who which, though of paramount imyou, and who I do not to the soul, affords hut slight countryman ?" I demanded ;

few

"which

"

"

prospect of
and

amusement

to the frivolous

know
"

you."
I know
"

I carnally-minded. the

hoped that the

of better and
man

was dawning in and rejoiced times, enlightened few the idea that Testaments, though in niunber, were being sold in unfortimate benightedSpain,from Madrid

present

you

more

that I

ever

the replied purchased the first knife of sold in the market-place

you, however,"

Ah, I 31i/self. Piozzi Lnigi ; and

"

remember

you

now.

well do I remember

to

the

farthermost

a parts of Galicia,

distance of

Corana
on one

miles, four hundred nearly stands on a peninsula, having

on

a boy, twenty years and to your stall, ago, I used to repair coursing listen to you and your countrymen dis-

also

how, when

side the sea, and

the other
"

in Milanese.

the celebrated

called the bay,generally into the old and

was

Luigi. Ah,
to
me.

those

GrojTie. It is divided
new

Oh,

how

were happy times they rushed back on

town, the latter of which

time
town
a probably mere

at

my

remembrance

when

saw

you

ride

one

suburb. ruinous

The

old The

is

desolate the
town
new

place,
more

up to the door of the closed my went in,

instantly shop, lay down upon

no

posada! I

from separated
modern

by
is
a

wide moat.
one

my

bed and
"

wept.
see reason

much

Myself. I

why

you

I should so much regret those times. magnificent knew street, the Calle Real, where you formerlyin England as an and as itinerant pedlar, reside. the principal merchants One occasionally in the of of stall a feature of this that it street master market-place is, singular find you in a I now of marble, a country town. is laid entirely with flags the proprietor, ingly, seemalongwhich troop poniesand cars as if sea-portof Spain, I cannot considerable of a it were a common shop. pavement. ence. ants It is a saying amongst the inhabitsee why you should regret the differ-

agreeable spot, and

contains

of there

Coruiia,that
street
so

in

their

town

is a

clean that

may be eaten off it without This may inconvenience.

the fact after
so
one

Luigi (dashing his pipe on the puchera the slightest ground). Regret the difference ! Do ? one be England is the thing certainly you know
"

of those rains which when Galicia, of the the

heaven and
never

drench frequently

and Milanese, of the Piedmontese We those of Como. especially

to rest
are

of the pavement appearance brilliant. street is particularly

was

lie down
we
a

but
our

we own

dream

of

at

one

time the

Conina of considerable place

town

whether it,
or

in

country

in

commerce,

part of which gi-eater

hear
a

has down
"

a to Santander, departed lately

which

stands the

considerable

distance

Biscay, Are you goingto St. James, Giorgio ? If so, you will perhaps convey a to message my poor countryman,"said to me one a voice morning in broken I at the door was as English, standing of my in the posada, royal street of Bay
Comna. I looked round
and
a perceived man

of

you the roads of be the poorest tramper on England, than lord of all within ten mo, of the shore of the lake of Coleagues and wherever much who the
same

gret Reland,as I am now. foreign I the difference,Giorgio! Do and such words from your lips, an Englishman? I Avould rather

say

all my

countrymen
difference !

have
now

visited England,
be.

they

Regret the
letters from
as

1 have

ten

countrymen in America, who say many and princithey are rich and thriving,

154

^HE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

fCHAP. XXVI,

and of Engpal men merchants; but every selling amongst the villagers | when their heads are reposing land. So I freighted half a ship with on night, their pillows, their souls aiislandra,such goods,for I had been successful hun-ying away to England, and its in England in my little speculations, And there and I ariived at Coruua. Here at once green lanes and farm-yards. their the vexations with boxes are on they began: disappointment ground, my their looking-glasses followed It was and with displaying disappointment. other goods to the honest rustics and the utmost that I could obtain difficulty their dames and their daughters, and to land my permission goods,and this and in bribes sacrifice and considerable a at selling chaffering only ing laughaway and the like; and when I had established justas of old. And there they are in the hedge aleat nightfall houses, ag-ain myself here, I found that the placewas one of no trade,and that my eatingtheir toasted cheese and their bread, and drinkingthe Suffolk and scarcely goodswent off very slowly, wished I to the roaring at to to cost. remove ale, and listening prime song and merry jests informed of the labourers. but was that, Now, another place, if they regret England so who are in that case, I must in leave my goods to be a happy America, which they own behind, unless I offered fresh bribes, which would have ruined me mont country, and good for those of Pied; and iu and
must

of

I regret

Como, how mucli more when, after the lapse it,

of so many years, I find myself in Spain, in this frightful of Conina, driving And town
a

this way I have gone on for fourteen enough to pay scarcely years, selling for my shop and to support myself.
so

I shall doubtless

continue till I
In

ruinous

trade, and

where

months

die, or

to by withotit my seeing a single an evil Englishface, or heaiinga word of the Spain. blessed English Myself. Did you not say that you tongue ! had a countrjTQan at St. James ? Myself. With such a predilection for England, what could have induced Luigi. Yes, a poor honest fellow, it and Hke to leave ? to come who, strange myself, by some Spain you I his way found teen chance to Galicia. Luigi. I will tell you: about six-

pass

goods are exhausted. my day I left England and came

"

"

"

"

our

years ago a universal desire seized in England to become thing somepeople

more

sometimes

contrive to send him

few

than

they

had

hitherto
fied, satisso

and ti'ampers been, pedlars ; theywished

moreover,
to

for mankind
see

are

never

goods,which he seUs at St. James at a He is here. than I can greater profit been has never a happy fellow, for he ence in England, and knows not the differcounti-ies. Oh, the two between '.and the the gi-een Englishhedgerows alehouses ! and, what is much more, the I have travelled fair dealing and security.
all over England and never met down in the ill usage, except once north amongst the Papists, my upon them meries to leave all their mumtelling and go to the all my as church parish
as

other

countries:

the

greater part forsook England. Where there had been ten, at present formerly
one. scarcely lingers

Almost
as

all went

to

America, which,
is
a

happy

I told you before, country, and speciallywith

for us men of Como. Well, all over my comrades and relations passed the sea to the West. I,too, was bent on

good

I did, and but whither? Instead of travelling; countiymen in one thing, going towards the West with the rest, England did; for know have of us who to not one a they have all SignorGiorgio, country where needs whether Piedmontese I lived in England, come thriven, must by myself of Spain: a countiy in of Como, but wished well to the or to this land men if he had not acwhich Protestant settles without tually no foreigner religion, of it. of heart broken later. become member a sooner or dying a idea in my head that I could fortune at once, a by bringinga of common Englishgoods,like cargo those which I had been in the habit of
an

I had

make

do you propose WTiat are at present, Luigi? ? prospects

Myself
"

W^hat

to do

your

Luigi. My
"

prospects are

blank,

CHAP.

XXVI.]
prospects
but
to
are

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

155

Giorgio
propose

; my

blank. in

each breech intended close.

corner

rises
an

from

the brass

earth

the

nothing
in
me. even

die if I all
to

Coruna,

of
to

immense

cannon,

perhaps
admit

the Years if

hospital,
ago left I

they will of thought

me,
or

keep
outer

the

wall erections

compact
are,

and ever, howbut

These
not

ileeiug,
and

behind

the

work

of

the

French,
almost

either

returning myself
to

England,
but is I
too

of

the

English
there of the

government.

betaking
too

America;
it all I

it is late.
to

Yes,

lies the

hero,

Avithin
he
at

late I

now,

Giorgio,
lost which I
am was
now

sight
turned

glorious
his

hill like
career.

where
a

When

first
to

hope

took

upon

pursuers
his

lion

drinking,
inclined,
you
"'

never

before I pose sup-

and
see.

what

bay and terminated acquire immortality

and die
name

without

before
;

its these

first ray
was

Many seeking it, has gilded

The

There
even

is for

hope in
you.

the I

Gospel,"
will

said you

their

of

Moore.

I,

"

send

harassed with

one." There
town

tile general, flying through Cashis a dispirited troops before

terrible
was on

is

small fronts

battery
the
waters

of

the

old

fierce that that

and he for

enemy,
the

little dreamed of

which

east, and
of the

whose the

point
a

attaining
man,

wall It

is washed is
a

by
from may young

the

bay.
The

which

many
not

better, greater,
had misfortunes him mortal im-

sweet

spot,
be

and

prospect

which

opens itself
;
some

it is extensive. about
trees

though sighed
were

certainly
in vain.
means

braver

His which

batteiy
square up about

eighty yards
are a

the

very secured

springing
favourite

fame; death, strand,

is and far

his

disastrous
tomb

route,
on a

it,and

it is rather of

finally his
from
a

bloody foreign
There

resort

of the the

people
of

Coruna.

kin

and

friends. has of

In the

centre

this
built

tomb

of

Moore,
in heroic

battery rous by the chivalof It

stands

scarcely
tomb,

this

Spaniard but and speaks

of
to
awe.

heard

of
a

it

with
sures trea-

French,
fall of their

commemoration

the is

strange
are

kind said

Immense been buried for

antagonist. by
one a

have

with what The

trust

oblong,
on

and
side

surmounted bears

slab,

and

the

heretic
no

either

of for

the which

simple
our

purpose

one

general, though pretends to guess.

clouds,
if
we

and

sublime
are

epitaphs
and
contrast

demons
in the

of

the

may

rivals
such and

celebrated,

which with the

stand bloated

powerful
bombastic the walls
"

the Gallegans, followed and their assailed flight,

English
them up the
;

in

with

inscriptions
of

which

form de:

water-spouts

as

they
of

toiled

steep
whilst of

Westminster

Abbey

winding legends
the
manner

paths
the

Fuencebadon
wild the
are

most

related
stout

JOHN
OF SLAIN THE IN

MOORE,
ENGLISH

in
even

which
in

soldier

LEADER

ARMIES,

fell. has
"

Yes,

Spain, immortality
the of head of Moore
;

BATTLE,

1809." and around tomb itself is of marble, i The i it is a quadrangular breast wall, high, the

already Spain, the

Guadalete

crowned
land
*

oblivion,

where

flows.

of

rough

Gallegan

granite;

close

to

The

ancient

Letht.

156

CHAPTER

XXVII.

Compostella Rey Romero"

"

The Canon
"

Treasure-seeker
of Spirit

"

Hidden

Riches

"

The

Localisrii

Hopeful Project"The Church of RefugeThe Leper Bones of Saint James.

" "

At found from

the

commencement
at

of James

August

to

excite

awe

myself
To

Saint this

of Compostella. indeed,it is almost travelled

or

place I

Coruiia with the courier

weekly

escorted by a strong was post, who in consequence of of the soldiers, party distracted state of the country, which
was overrun

lated
its
and and long dusky aisles, music and inhale the solemn the noble
censers,

admiration; to walk impossible

hear the

and

chanting, i

which

incense of the mighty at times are swung so

as

high by machinery
roof, whilst
and here glitter gloom,from before which

to

smite

the the

with

banditti. the

From

ruiia vaulted Codured ena

gigantictapers
amongst
a

to ten

Saint James

distance is but

there

leagues ; the journey,however, It was for a day and a half.

most

the shrine of many the worshippers are

saint,
ing, kneel-

one, through a pleasant

ful beautiin many kinds of

country,
hill and

with

rich

varietyof

placesshaded
trees

dale ; the road was with various in of

most

forth their prayers and breathing for help, and mercy, and petitions love, entertain a doubt that we are treading the floor of
a

house

where Yet the

God Lord

de-

clad

luxuriant

to lighteth foliage.

dwell.

is

Hundreds and of
on

both on foot travellers, horseback, availed themselves which security the

escort
was

distant from
he
sees

the
:

forded afanger.

the dread of banditti

strong. music,

that house ; he hears not, not, or if he do, it is with What availeth that solemn that noble chanting, that incense
savour

During the journeytwo or three alarms were given; we, however, reached Saint James without having been attacked.
stands James level amidst mountains: Saint of these called the Pico connected Saint fiil legends. A thousand with which is
on a

of sweet before kneeling surmounted silver hat and

What

availeth ver, silits

that

grand altar of with by that figm'e

pleasant hill, Peak,

the most conical Sacred

of one traordinary ex-

the emblem breast-plate, and conwho, though an apostle fessor,

was

Sacro, or

wonderare many beautiful old town is

about James, containing

twenty
has been

inhabitants.
with it
was

Time

when, Rome,

the

singleexceptionof
sort rethedral ca-

the most celebrated in the world; its of pilgrims

vant? serimprofitable mission hoping for reof sin by tmstingin the merits of one who or by paypossessed none, ing bom homage to others who were and nurtured in sin,and who alone,by the exercise of a lively faith granted from could above, hope to preserve
an

at best

What

availeth

themselves ? Rise from

from

the

wrath

of the Almighty

being said to contain

of Saint James

the bones

knees,ye children of Compostella, bend, let it be to the Almighty alone, and no longer on the of in the Its eve patron's day address Gospel Spain, your preached him in the however of however, as a place followingstrain, age pilgrimglory,
the elder, the child of the the thunder, who, according to church, first legend of tJie Romish your
or

if ye

passing rapidly away. of cathedral, though a work various and exhibiting various periods, of architecture,is a majestic styles in eveiy respect calcuvenerable pile,
is The

sublime
"

it may

sound

"

Thou Thou

shield of that faith which

revere,

in who

Spain we
dares
to

scourj^^e of each draw near :

foeman

CTTAP.

XX

VI

1.1
Son

THE
of that Uod who

BIBLE
the ments eleSaint

IN of

SPAIN.

15)

Whom

the

tames, Call'd chihl of the James

"

thunder, immortal

of the foolish popular story-books them to carry home he persuaded Spain, them that Testaments instead, assuring the sacred
volume
even was
a

From

the
us

blessed asylum of glory intense,

better,more
more

Upon
And To
'"

thy sovereigninlluence dispense; aims ijratitude list to the praises our ! offer up worthily,mighty Saint James
thee fervent thanks she

and instructive, book

far

taining entercame a

than and

those

they

in

To In Li Of

Spain

shall

ever

quest of. He fancy for me,

visit

conceived speedily

great

outpour;

thy
yet

name more

though
hallow'd

glory,she glories and

which the
tuary sanc-

to came regularly me posada, every eveningat my in my walks accompanied me

thrice tliy

corse,

about
was a

claims O blessed Compostella, liigh heathen Saint James and !

He and the environs. the town of considerable information, man

and

though
a

"

When "With

impiety,
of darkness first

loathsome

kind

dread,
a

which
our spread, Spain over-

was

chaos

was

simplicity, sessed poshumour good-natured highlydiverting. frequently late one night alone walking
of much of of in what my

Thou
The

wast

the

light which

dispell'd in the Alameda

Saint next

with James
'"

its flames

Saint James, considering direction I should

for I had this been in

liell-born
!

obscurity, glorious
wars

bend
ten

course,

And All

when
our

terrible the

had

nigh
saw

wasted thee

already
moon

force.
battle
we on

was

place; the days lumined and ilshininggloriously,

a

bright'midst

horse, the hosts,whom Fierce scattering

every object around to Alameda The distance.

siderable conwas

their

fury
Saint

proclaims
To be warriors James ! of

Islam, victorious

quitedeserted; every body, with the exceptionof myself,having for some

time

retired.
continued

I sat down my

on

bench

"

Beneath With Thou The

thy direction, stretch'd thy feet,

hearts
entreat wilt

prone

at

and
were

which reflections,

low

and

humble, this day

we

strengthen the hope which

our

vens enli-

frames.

hope
James.

of

thy favour
to

and

presence. Saint
and

suddenlyinterrupted by a heavy sound. Turning my eyes in stumping it proceeded, the direction from which first I perceived what at appeared a bulk slowly : nearer advancing shapeless
and
nearer

it

drew,

and
a

I could
man a

now

"

Then And To The

praise
above.
to that

the

Son

the

Father

the distinguish in
coarse

outline of and

brown

which Holy Spirit

springsfrom
vividness

gannents,

their that shames sun's Saint

love;

Andalusian
the had

hat,

using as

dressed kind of staif a

bright emanation
burst James." of

whose

splendour,and praiseto

long peeledbranch of a tree. He the bench arrived opposite now where I was seated,when, stopping,

and demanded he took off his hat and in a with a kind I met charityin uncouth tones in biblical which and covdial coadjutor had some semblance restrange jargon, my The labours in the bookseller of the place, moon to the Catalan. At

Saint James

Eey Romero,
This
both the excellent

man

of

about

sixty. shone
was

on

grey

locks
"

and

on

ruddy
I at

individual,who
and
an

weather-beaten
once

countenance

which

wealthy
matter

took respected,

with

enthusiasm
from
on

up which

I,
"

"

Benedict Mol," said : recognised postella that I see you at Comis it possible
"

doubtless emanated

? losing high, of no Och, mein Gott, es ist der Herr ! oppoi*tunity recommending my book to those who entered his shop, repliedBenedict. Och, what good
" "

in the Azabacheria, and was that the Herr is the firstperson was fortune, and commodious !" a establishment. I meet at Compostella very splendid believe my In many I can instances,when scarcely Ml/self. that you the peasants of the neighbourhood to say Do came you mean which
"

eyes.
have

with

an

intention of

some purchasing

arrived just

at this

? place

158

THE Ow

BTBLE

IN

SPAIN.
Not
a

[CHAP.
cuart

XXVII.

Benedict.

"

arrived.

this moment yes, 1 am I have walked all the motive I

Benedict.
care now

"

; but I do not
at

I have

arrived and I

St. James.
over, more-

long way
"

from such
"

Madrid. could
come

The

schatz is
seen

nigh ;

have,

What Mijself,

possibly
tells for the you
now

bringyou
schatz
"

distance ?
am

me

is a good sign ; it you, which that the schatz is stillhere.

Benedict. the

Ow,
was

treasure.

told

at

Madrid
have
met

that I

coming ;
no

and

go to the best posada in the till I have and live like a duke place, of digging an opportunity up the schatz, I shall when
"

you here, I have the schatz. I shall find it, In Mijse]/.

"

doubt that
did ?

I will pay Do

all

scores.

what

manner

you

by the way support yourself

"

nothingof the kind," I replied ; find out some placein which to sleep, and endeavour to seek some ment. employ"

In the mean Benedict. time,here is a trifle Ow, I begged, I bettled, but as with which to support yourself; and so contrived to pick up some cuartos ; and when

I reached

Toro, I

worked

my tillthe and it,

at

trade of drove

soap-makingfor a time, I knew nothing about said people

me

which for the treasure you haTe come to seek, I believe it only exists in your I gave him a dollar own imagination." and

out

of the

town.

So

departed, charming enjoyedmore the neighbourhood of

In these I
was

and begged and I went on I arrived at Orense, which

I have never bettled till in than is in tliis walks like Saint James.

country of Galicia.

Ow,

I do not

almost

this country of Galicia at all. Why not ? Myself."

Benedict.
all and

"

Why

! because

here

accompanied by my invariably The the good old bookseller. their and are along they numerous,
banks and
we were

friend
streams

wooded

enjoying the delicious summer of this part of Spain. Eeligion evenings foi-eign formed the topicof our versation, conI arrive 0 the misery of Galicia ! When generally talked but we not unfrequently of their pigsties, at night at one I had visited, lauds which which they call posadas,and ask for of the foreign
whom

and have scarce bettle, thing anybeg less for me, for themselves,much

in the habit of

straying

they know

to be

man.

bread
straw

to
to

eat

in the

name

of

God,
curse

and
me,

and
"

at other times

of matters

which

lated re-

lie down

in, they

to particularly

and in

straw say there is neither bread nor I since Galicia: and sure enough,

We
are

booksellers

of

companion. my Spain," said he,

no

"

have

been

here I have

seen

neither, only

the

all liberals ; we are monkish system.

we

How

friends to indeed

something that they kind of reedy rubbish

call broa, and a with which they bones have call ?

so are sore

should

darkness,whilst

It fosters be friends to it ? live by ing disseminatwe love

or our

litterthe horses : all my since I entered Galicia.

And Mi/seJf.
"

light. We
have all
more

less suffered for

and profession, it;

yet you
you of treasure

come

to

this country, which

in search Benedict.
"

able, miser-

of us, in the times of terror, were tion innocent translaan hanged for selling many from down the

Ow yaw, but the schatz is buried ; it is not above ground ; there is no above ground in Galicia. money
1 must it up I will

Shortlyafter the

French or Constitution
and the

English.
was

put

dig it up ; and when I purchasea coach

have with

dug
six

French by Angouleme from flee to I was obliged bayonets, and take refuge in the Saint James wildest part of Galicia,near Corcuvion. I friends,
now

mules, and and

with
me,
me

cerne; Had I not possessed ride out of Galicia to Lugood been alive should if the Herr to not have pleases go he shall be welcome
to

;
sum

as

it
of I
"

go

was,

it cost
to

me

considerable
matters.
was

with
come

and
"

tlie schatz.

money
was

arrange my

Whilst

I Ml/self. you

afraid that you have am What errand. do on a desperate Have to do? you any propose
?

away,

shop

in

charge of
They
quently fre-

the burnt

ecclesiastical officers.

money

told my wife that I ought to be for the books which I had sold.

160

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XX

VII.

Saint James in tlie chm-ch you menWhether tliis to Coruna. tion, deposited really advisable is it it is not probable that you will be was or not not, change of the for who the fioor to am a to foreigner, say ; me, permitted remove to search for it. however, is by no opinion, sacristy my private the alteration. is favoui-able to Benedict. the matter means already Ow, Saint is the James of I central to most went well advanced. one Yesterday and with and in confess towns of the to Galicia, canons large one myself lous popu"

to not

receive

absolution

and

hut
means

that I regard these I thought this would of

benediction ; thingsmuch,
be the best

communities whereas
a
"

on

every
in
a

side of
corner,

it,
at

Coruna
a

stands distance

considerable It is contrive

from

confessed

broaching the matter, so I myself,and then I spoke of

and
at last I

that pit}'

the vecinos steal away

the rest. of Coruna from

us

cannot
our

to

my travels to the canon, told him of the treasure, that if he assisted me we it between
seen
us.

Ow,
entered

I
at

done as even cathedral, said and proposed our a government," Santiagian ; should share then, indeed, they would be able to wish cut some figure.As it is,they have you had

they have

"

him

he

once

into the

not

said that it might turn out he : and speculation profitable me by the hand, and said that I was an honest Swiss and a good Catholic, And I then proposedthat he should and keep me into his house take me of digthere tillwe had an opportunity ging This he the treasure together. up and affair,
a

very shook

" in." fit to say mass A that too, theycannot remove great pit}-, would another exclaim ; our hospital," " it is, they are as obligedto send us

church

their think
more

sick that

poor the other

wretches. sick of

always
have than

Coruiia
but what

ill-favoured from

countenances

those from
can come

places ;

good

Coruiia ?"

refused to do.

Rey
doubt
:

Romero.
trust
one

"

Of of
our

that

have

no

very
have

for not committing himself so far until he sees sure These tales of treagood reason.
canons are

Accompanied by the bookseller, I in which, however, visited this hospital, ness I did not remain long; the wretchedand uncleanliness which I observed

at

present rather
of them He
ever

too

stale

we

Saint James, me driving speedily away. indeed,is the grand lazai'-house for all
for the rest of Galicia,which accounts of horrible jects obnumber the prodigious
to

heard

since the time

me

of the INIoors. Benedict. the he make

"

advised

to

go

to

be

seen

and Captain-General
to

obtain

sion permiscase

for the most of from what

part arrived

in its streets, who have in the hope

excavations,in which
to

medical procuring

which, assistance,

promised
Thereupon

assist

me

to

the utmost

of his power. the Swiss heard neither of him

at
saw nor

is very scantily I could learn, administei-ed. Amongst and inefficiently

and I departed, further anything

these

unhappy
him

wretches
"

I God

occasionally helpthee,"

observed fled from

as

the terrible with

a

and instantly leper,

duringthe
bookseller
me

time that I continued of weary town, of fond. enthusiastically

was

Saint James. The

never

if I had been a Jew of old. Galicia is the only provinceof Spain where
cases

showing
which

about
was

his native

of

leprosy are

still that

frequent ;
an

he

convincingpr^of this
is the result of foul
to

the disease

Indeed, I have localism,which

never

is so

of spirit throughout prevalent

seen

the

and feeding,

inattention

the Galleas cleanliness,

of at Saint gans, with regard to the comforts did biit flourish, life and civilized habits, are confessedly all the otlier nati-ses of seemed to cave but little far behind the Santiagians Their if all others in Galicia perished. Spain. " have we Besides a general of Coruna was hospital, to the toAvn

Spain,more

strong than

James.

If their town

antipathy
unbounded,
been
not
a

seller. said the booklikewise a leper-house," of late " it you 1 We Shall I show cumstance the cirThere have everything at Saint James. that the seat of the pro\'incial finds the is from had removed been leper nothinglacking: very governm'int and this had feeling littleincreased from

CHAP.

XXYII.J
"

THE
I have the
uo

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

161

an

iun here."

your
"

showing

me

to objection leperbe interred in the fieldof the dead, I house," replied,tliedisorder is forthwith comnuxnicated
to

for enter but it must be at a distance, it I will not.*' Thereupon he conducted down the road which leads me

towards Padron
to two
or

and

Vigo,and pointing

below the earth. idea in these parts. Law-suits are at present pending from the circumstance of elephantides having
corses
even

all the

Such

at least is

our

is

our

" three huts,exclaimed, That " It a leper-house." appears

been buried with

the other

is leprosy in all its

dead. Sad forms,but most so

miserable

" what acwhen commodation elephantine." " for the be said I, " do yoix Talkingof corses," may tients, paand who attends to their wants ?" believe that the bones of Saint James " answered interred at Compostella ?" are They are left to themselves," veritably " " and probably the bookseller, sometimes What I ?" replied the old can

I replied : place," there

say

perishfrom
time
were even
was

: neglect endowed, and

the

placeat

one

man

"

you
as

know

as

much

of the

the

to appropriated these have been sequestered during

had rents,which its support, but

matter

altar is a is said to

myself. largestone

Beneath
slab
or

high

which lid,

the late troubles.

unclean of the

At

present,the least

takes lepers generally

the mouth of a profoimd cover the bottom of which it is believed well, at that the bones of the saint are

his station

by the road-side,and begs for the rest. See,there he is now." in his And sure enough the leper, shiningscales,and
seated beneath
a

interred; though why they should be placed at the bottom of a well is a

mystery which
of the I cannot and

fathom.
told another

One
me

half

naked,

was

officers of the church

kept dropped money during the night, and passed of the chapels before one on. being, havingshortly A bad disorder that," said my friend. been broken mitted. comopen and a sacrilege I confess that I, who have seen At the dead of night, so finding fond of of them, am the time hang heavy on their hands, by no means many the company of lepers. Indeed I wish they took a crowbar and removed the that they would enter my never shop, slab,and looked down into the abyss do dark as the grave ; wherebelow ; it was upon as theyoccasionally to beg. Nothing than is more I have heard, as infectious, theyaffixed a weight to the end it down. : there is one leprosy cies, of a long rope, and lowered very virulent spewhich is particularly At a very great depthit seemed to sti-ike however, dreaded those like here, the elephantine: against somethingdull and solid, "who die of it should,according lead : they supposed it might be a to law, be burnt, and their ashes scattered to coffin; perhaps it was, but whose, is the winds : for if the body of such a the question.
" "

We wall. into the hat of the unhappy

ruined

that at one time he watch in the church

M2

162

CHAPTER

XXVIII.
Public Tbe

Skippers of
An

Padion"
"

Caldas de los

Introduction
"

the Desert

Bay

of

The Notary Reyes Pontevedra Ride Gallegan Language Afternoon Vigo Interruption The Governor. Vigo Sudden
"

"

"

Insane
"

Barber"
o2

"

"

"

Stranger Jews

"

"

After Saint horses of

stay of about
we

at fortnight
our

skippers of Padron,
on folks,

and
to

these

good

James,
and As

again mounted
did
not

their
to

return

Galicia, were
on

proceededin
we

the direction leave

observed

have

become

sudden

and fond of exceedingly opinionated James till late in the afternoon, we to dispute. It was scarcely possible make assertion in their hearing travelled that day no farther than Paan a flat contradiction, dron, a distance of only three leagues. without receiving when This place is a small port, situate at were especially subjects religious the exti'emity of a firth which municates combrought on the carpet. It is false,' the sea. It is called, they would Saint Paul, in such with say ; and in such a verse, says exfor brevity's a chapter actly sake,Padron, but its proper the contrary.' What is Villa del Padron, or can appellation you the town of the patron saint ; it having know concerningwhat Saint Paul or the printo the legend, been,according cipal any other saint has written ? the would ask them. residence of Saint James Much more during priests than you think,' theyreplied his stay in Galicia. we are By the Romans ; it was termed Iria Flavia. It is a no longerto be kept in darkness and little town, and carries on these :' matters ignorancerespecting flourishing and then they would rather an extensive of their some commerce, produce books and read paragraphs,making their barks occasionally its tiny finding that every person was such comments the Bay of Biscay,and across way scandalized ; they cared nothingabout far as the Thames and London. even so the Pope, and even There anecdote is a curious verence nected conspoke with irreof the bones of Saint James. with the skippersof Padron, | which be considered as bniited can HoAvever,the matter was soon scarcely it relates to the out of place here, as about,and a commission was despatched: circulation of the Scriptures. from I was and | our to collect the books see friend This in the of the burn them. and the one was efiected, day shop my bookseller at Saint James, when either pimished or a stout primanded, reskipperswere entered. since which I have heard good hmnoured-looking priest He took up one of my Testaments, and of them. I could not nothing more forthwith into violent fit of forbear when I burst these a saw laughing is the matter ? books ; they instantly laughter. What brought to my demanded the bookseller. The sight mind the skippers of Padron and their reminds of stance," circumof this book me a religious disputations." about Our next replied the other : day'sjourneybrought us when the English to Pontevedra. As there was talk no twenty years ago,

Vigo.

Saint

'

'

'

'

'

'

'

"

"

"

"

first took it into their heads

zealous in

to

be very

of robbers without road after

town
one
was

their

own a

way

us to Spaniards converting" of thinking, they dis-

in these parts, travelled we and alone. escort The ary beautiful and picturesque, especially solitary,
us

ti-ibuted this kind chanced them

great number
amongst
the be in the London

of books

of of

though
we

somewhat had

who Spaniards
;
some

left behind There

name

the
more

small
than

to

of Caldas.

is in

fell into

hands

of

certain

placeof

this

Spain;

the

CLIAP.

XXVIII.1
of which I
am

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN

[65

one

from giiished

Caldas
of the observe

It was speakingis distiu- than Teucer the Telemonian. by beingcalled in former times a placeof considerable to be its port are de los Eeyes, baths the warm or commerce ; and near kings. It will not be amiss to seen the ruins of a farol,or light-house, The port, said to be of great antiquity. that the SpanishCaldas is synonymous the rest with the Moorish

Al/ioma,a
both in

however,
from the

is at

considerable is shallow Avhole

distance and

word

of

frequent occurrence
African

Spanishand
seemed of its of
name

by
:

no

das topography.Calmeans undeserving

on a

the to^vn, and The

commodiou in-

country in

of neighbourhood

Pontevedra

conceivab is in-

it stands the

confluence

delicious, abounding with

fruits of every especially description, in the proper season are grapes, which seen hanging from the "pai-ras"in

and springs,
Avas

arrived had come

waters. I

ci-owded with
to

we place when peoplewho

enjoy the
course

benefit of

the

In the observed

have

that

of my travels I wherever warm

luscious luxuriance.

An

old

Andalu-

of volcanoes found, vestiges are springs black to be nigh ; the smooth are sure the divided mountain, or precipice, huge j-ocks standing by themselves on the plain or on the hill side, as if Titans had been playing at bowls. This last feature
occurs

sian author has said that it producesas and citron trees as the many orange of Cordova. Its oranges neighbourhood means good,and are, however, by no
cannot

compete
The land

with

those

of Andalusia. boast that

Pontevedrians
that whilst

their

near

Caldas

Reyes,the side of the mountain overhangsit in the direction of the south beingcovered with immense granite stones, apparently at some eructed from the bowels ancient period
de los
which of the earth. vedra the of the route From
was

year, and in one

produces two crops every ing they are gatherthey may be seen ploughing and sowing another. They may well is cerbe proud of their country, which tainly a highlyfavoured spot.
The
town

itselfis in

state

of great

Caldas

to

Ponte-

the and, notwithstanding decay,

more

ficence magni-

and fatiguing, hilly

and those clouds heat was intense, which constitute one of the flies, annoyed our horses to pestsof Galicia, such
cut
a

fomid of its publicedifices, we of Galician than the usual amount

filth and mend

misery.
the

The

of the most
to most

wi-etched

posadawas one and description,

was a

degreethat
branches

we

were

obligedto
the
trees to

down

from

matter, the hostess intolerable scold and shrew.

the

tonio An-

protecttheir heads and necks

from

the

of these blood-thirsty tormenting stings insects. Whilst in Galicia travelling of the year on horseback, at this period

having found fault with which of some provision

she cursed him in the the
most

lity quashe duced, proately immoder-

country language, Avhich

it is always advisable
net
sure

for the and

carry a fine of the animal, a protection

to
means

was

and threatened, only one she spoke, turbance disif he attempted to breed any in her

commodious

of

defence,

house,

to

turn

the

whiclv
unknown

appears, however, to be utterly horses, himself,and in Galicia, where, perhaps, of doors. out wanted than in any other

his master Socrates

with forth-

himself,
self him-

it is

more

however, could

not

have conducted

part of the world. Pontevedra, upon the whole, is cer! tainly entitled to the appellation of a

magnificent town, some the edifices, especially

such
as are

of its

Spainand
a

but in Italy. It is surrounded by wall of hewn stone, and stands at the of

a

nowhere

convents, to be found

public being

bearance this occasion with greater foron who than Antonio, shrugged muttered something in his shoulders, Greek, and then was silent. " live ?" does the notary public Where I demanded. vended
was

Now

the
to

notary public

books, and
recommended

I this personage friend at by my

end

creek

into which

the

river

Saint James. the house his

name.

Levroz disembogues. It is said to have been founded by a colony of Greeks,

whose

to A boy conducted me of Seiior Garcia, for such was I found him a brisk, active,

captain

was

no

less

personage

talkative

little man

of

He foitj'.

un-

164

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
an

CHAP.

XXVIII.

the sale of dertook with gveat alacrity my

two

by

insane

barber.

am

glad,for

Testaments,and
to
a

in
was

client who He for

sold twinkling waitingin the be from the

your sake, that it is broken fellow vanished

and office,

appeared
was an

to

comitiy.
he
"

enthusiastic
a

but of cared Those their and

course no

in

local sense,

of two you one have throat with his razor, cut patriot, your under pretence of shavingyou, or have for taken I your
to

up, and the he would have played ; ti-icks; he would either

other of

country than

books

and

never

have

counted ac-

Pontevedra.
fellows
town

Vigo," said he,

better
one

never

you could
as

for the
see

proceeds. Bay ! what right such an

to
a

"say
ours,

is

than

owl's nest No

Vigo has

bay

!"

that it is hear

more

to deserving

the you
were

of capital
ever

this part of Galicia, Did ? I tell you such folly

not
care

ness person could exhibit greaterkindthan did the notary to another

soon no as

publicto myself,as
him that the It

I had

vinced con-

what, friend,I should

within
"

if

Vigo
of

I had
men was

intention of

burnt, and all the fools and rascals

it. Would you Pontevedra
ever

sidingwith
Pontevedra. the

of
now

Vigo against
six o'clock in

think ?"

comparingVigo with

and evening,

he forthwith

conducted

" he where I have to a confectioner's I don't know," I replied me shop, ; and iced have heard treated with I but a an been at cream me never Vigo, is From hence of the of chocolate. small finest that the Vigo bay cup say the notary walked in the world." about the city, we "

Bay

rascals of
our

! my have

good sir. Bay

a

bay,
has

and

! yes, the it is that bay

us

showing the
the Convent said front," of it ?"

various he ;
"

edifices, especially
:
"

of the Jesuits what

See

that

theirs which
commerce.

robbed what

of all the

do

you

think

But

needs

the admiration It is I expressed of a district with a bay ? to him capital and it the which I edifices that where felt, by so doing really wants, public heart : the meet ti'ansact won to o an good notary's deputies entirely provincial there is nothing like that far from there I suppose their business ; now, so He looked at me there at Vigo?" said I. edifice, beinga commodious public is not a decent house in all Vigo. Bay ! for a moment, winked, gave a short a chuckle, and then proceeded bay, but have they triumphant yes, they have tain founhis diink fit ? Have on water to they a way, walking at a tremendous dressed Seiior Garcia was The and the water rate. ? Yes, they have, in it would the all an is so brackish burst that English notary respects as dear of a horse. stomach I hope, my might be ; he wore a white hat, brown
"

have not all tins come you distance to take the part of such a gang those of Vigo ?" of pirates as

sir,that

frock the blacked

coat, drab
shoes.

breeches But I

buttoned
saw

at

knees, white

and stockings,
never

well
an

English notary walk so fast : it coidd be called walking: it seemed not I aware I replied was indeed, scarcely ; of galvanic in this like a succession assistance more that they wanted leaps my found it to bounds. I and them to I am impossible merely carrying dispute. with "Where him: are the New Testament, of which you they keep up me?" I at last demanded, stand in much need, if they conducting evidently breathless. and scoimdrels such knaves as quite are you
"

am

not

come

to

take

their part,"

"

represent them." them, my Represent

"

"

To

the house

of the
"

cleverest
to

man

dear sir ! Does for itself?

town

in

Spain,"he
to

replied,

whom

tend I in-

not

the

matter

speak
that their

Do

they not

say

is better of capital hrlho-

than ours, more district ? que a neria! "Is there I

a

fit to be the what

introdvice you ; for you must has nothing that Pontevedra not think edifices and to boast of but its splendid its beautiful country ; it producesmore than any other town hear of the Did in Spain. ever you illustrious minds
" "

I que disparate

! (what folly

!)" rascality
at

bookseller's shop
he
"

Vigo ?"
"

inquired.
was

There

one."

?" grand Tamerlane said I, Oh, yes," kept replied,

but

he

did not

CHAP.

XXYIIl.]
from he Poutevedra
came or

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
the notary, "
as a

1G5

come

its neighbourthe

said Spanish," of Poutevedra."

"

native
plied, re-

lioocl:
"

from

steppes of

near Tartary,

the river Oxus." he

The
"

natives of
to

Poutevedra," I
be

I know

"'

but what
to

the notary, did,"replied appear that when to say is, mean Gallegan than wanted
an

in

better versed in for the Castilian, which

on

Enrique the
send
man

Third
to

sador ambas-

greater part of the conversation

I hear
"

he could
was a

that African, the only find suited to the enterprise

in the

streets

is carried

in

the former

dialect."

The last gentleman which my knightof Poutevedra, Don ***** introduced said Garcia Let friend to the men me," name. i,y who of Vigo contradict that fact if they the Advocate, was a Portuguese, can." spoke little or no Spanish. It is said that the Galleganand Portugueseare and asentered a large portal We cended but when we at the top a splendid staircase, attempted very similar, in the two to converse we of which the notary knocked at a small languages, little found it impossible. I understood is the gentlemanto whom door : "Who he said,whilst my mandedof what ?" deabout to introduce me Gallegan you are Can to him. I. was quite unintelligible dialect?" It is the advocate * * * *," replied you understand our country
" "

Garcia and We

"

he

is the

cleverest all

man

in

Spain,and
were

understands sciences."
admitted

languages

he continued. " Very littleof I believe

accent

I replied it," ; uncouth

"

which

proceedsfrom chiefly
and

by

respectable
of the

the culiar peenunciation

languageis looking female, to all appearance a almost composed of entirely who, on beingquestioned, certainly housekeeper, and woi'ds." at informed us that the Advocate was Portuguese Spanish So you are an home, and forthwith conducted us to an Englishman," said Your countrymen have the the Advocate. rather library, immense or room, much walls beingcovered with books, except committed damage in times past if we trust our in these regions, where hung some in two or three places, may fine pictures of the ancient Spanish histories." school. There was a rich mellow leons, Yes," said I, they sank your gallight and burnt your finest men-of-war in the apartment, streamingthrougha old Cobham, which looked in Vigo Bay, and, under window of stained glass, levied a contribution of fortythousand to the west. Behind the table sat the of this very town I looked with no on Advocate, on wliom pounds sterling littleinterest : his forehead was Poutevedra." high much and wrinkled, and there was Any foreignpower," interrupted to which his the were on features, gravity notary public, has a clear right conceive what I cannot in but He attack dressed a was Vigo, quiteSpanish. long robe, and might be about sixty plea your countrymen could urge for ; is a respectable he sat reading behind a largetable,and Poutevedra, which distressing
" " " " " "

for their Gallegans,

on

our

entrance

half raised

and himself, offended

" "

bowed

slightly. said the Advocate, Seilor Cavalier," notary publicsaluted him most \n\l show I library.Here and,in an under voice, profoundly, hoped you my of poems, collection introduce curious that he might be permitted work, a is a to in a friend of his,an Gallegan, by the English gentleman, written mostly national is our He who was curate of Fruirae. travelling throughGalicia. of I am him," said poet,and we are very proud him." very glad to see We the Advocate, but I hope he speaks upwards of an hour with stopped
The
" "

town, them."

and

could

never

have

if it little the Advocate, wliose conversation, the he was that did not convince me communication ; for, although I can in Spain, was, read both French and Latin, I cannot cleverest man upon the who and tainly cerwhole, highlyinteresting, speak them."
else Castilian,
we can

have

but

"

He

speaks,sir, almost

as

good

an possessed

extensive store

of

166

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap, xxvii:.
It is
a

generalinformation, though he was by- strong fort or castle. which surrounded the profound no means place, philologist
the notary had When I was Pontevedra him represented about
to to be.

small low

pact com-

the streets and ing, small

are

narrow,

walls ; and Avindsteep, of the town is

a

with

depart from
of the next

in the middle

in the afternoon stood

day,the

Seiior Garcia

by

the side We

square. There is rather found and

an

extensive shore from

faubourg

of my horse, and, havingembraced me, thrust a sm?il pampUet into my hand:

"

extendingalong the
an

of the- bay.

excellent
woman

This

book," said he,

of Pontevedra.

"

contains Wherever dear

scription dea man

kept by posada, the Basque

civil and
to

go,
"

speak well
heard

of Pontevedra."
"

you 1 nodded.

provinces,who
The intelligent.

were

both with

town

seemed

be

Stay,"said he,

my

friend,I

crowded, and
merriment.
a

resounded The

noise and

have do my time

of your and will society, best to further its views. I am if at any

an

were people

making

wretched

attempt

at

an

illimiination,

in consequence future of some victory lately ^ gained, or pretended to have been opportunityof speakingin printof Seiior Garcia, gained,over tlie forces of the Pretender. the notary public of Pontevedra uniforms were ing glanc]\Iilitary you but disinterested, quite you should have
"

understand so."
"

me

"

I wish

you

would

do

It from

was

said I. will," a pleasant afternoon's

to

ride

in every direction. To increase the bustle, a troop of Portuguese | had lately arrived from Oporto, players and their first representation to was I about take

Pontevedra four

to be perfonned in Spanish ?" I demanded. approached " " the latter town, the country became the reply and No," was ; mountainous,though on that account exceedingly every person is so eager to go, which the would be the case if not scarcelyanything could exceed it were in a languagewhich beauty of the surrounding scenery. they could
we

being only

Vigo, the leagues. As

distance

placethis evening.

"

Is the

play

The

sides of the hills

were

for the most

understand." On
was

even part clothed with luxuriant forests, ally to the very summits, though occasiona

the which

morning
looked

of the in
a

next

day

seated at breakfast
out

largeapartment
the Plaza

and flinty

naked

peak

would As

or jNIayor, gi'eat square of the good the route alongwhich town of Vigo. The on sun was eveningcame shining advanced and all around looked became the we very brilliantly, very gloom}-, hills and forests enwrappingit in deep lively and gay. a Presently stranger shade. It appeared, tioned staentered, and, bowing profoundly, however, to be well frequented himself at the window, where were numerous cars : and both horsemen he remained considerable time in a creakingalong it, and pedestrians silence. He was of veiy remarkable were a man continually ing passThe of about us. were villages frequent. thirty-five. appearance, His features were of perfect on Vines, supported parras, were symmetry, ing, growif possible, in still greater abimand I may almost say of perfect beauty. dance in the neighbourhood of than His hair was the dai'kest I had ever Pontevedra. Life and activity seemed and shining seen, glossy ; his eyes large, hum of to pei-vadeeverything. The black, and melancholy ; but that which his complexion. the cheerful bark of dogs,the struck me most was insects, rude it is true, but of blended It called be Galicia, were olive, might songs in it So livid olive. He dressed was was a together pleasant symphony. delicious was ride French that I in first of fashion. almost the style very my massive when entered the gate of Around his neck was we a gold regretted while his were chain, Vigo. large fingers upon The town the lower part of in one of which set a magwas occupies rings, nificent be ? that it Who comes beman a lofty as can hill,which, ascends, ruby. and I or Portuguese exti-emely thought Spaniard precipitous, steep and the top of which is crowned with a perhapsa Creole. I a-sked him an in"

to the clouds. itself, rising

present the

upon

1G8

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.
I
was

XXVIIl,

spreading
wind,
and

its bent

euormous
on

sails ruin of

to

the theran Luthat the

this escort which in its

"

marched
have
was

into
a

the

the

the
;
"

might
time,
are

been
now

strong

fort, place

isle, proudly fleet,

forests all the
to

steered Avhich been

but

rather of

i-uinous.
a

build

and

man

half

You the

suspected
M'ho
"

being

spy,"

of Galicia mariners

had

felled, and
from the the
stern

said
''

corporal,
?" said
"

walked

in front.

impressed
creeks It
was

Indeed

I.

Yes," replied the

thousand Cantabrian
united

bays

and

of here

corporal,
been taken

and and of

several shot." the

man,
to

spieshave
of
as

lately
the fort

shore.

that

the

tlags of triampjied over

France
:

Holland
the the

when

and England pride of Spain and of burning timbers soared above the

Upon
stood
a

one

parapets
dressed

young

tern subal-

and officer, introduced. you

were
"

exploded
tops of the

war-ships
Gallegan
the the

We

this personage I was have been watching said

hills, and
their direction shores

blazing
of Sam-

this

half

hour,"

he,

"

as
"

galleons sank with whilst driftingin

payo. that It
was on

treasure-chests

you

taldng observations." yourselves much gave

said
was

you Then

useless

of this

bay

trouble,"
and

I.

"

am

the English guards first emptied of the bombs Spanish bodegas, whilst Cobham were crushing the roofs of the castle of

merely
the kindness

Englishman, looking at the

an

bay.
me

Have fort."
some

now

to

show

the After

Castro,
buried

and

the

vecinos

of in

conversation,
civil
to

he of

said,

"

Pontevedra

their

doubloons
were

wish

to

be

people

cellars,
to

and

flying posts
and invasion these Orensee and

ing conveynews

; you

may

therefore

Lugo
All
as

the

of of

at

the

heretic

tlie disaster occurred

.o

exit, and
before

liberty." I proceeded down

the

your consider self yourmade bowed, my the hill.

tion na-

Just the

Vigo.
mind distance
"

I stood from
are

my far up the hill, at a short the fort,surveyingthe bay.

events

J entered

tovm,
followed
on me

however,
me

corporal, who had ceived, tapped me

"

the
to

unpershoulder. nor," gover-

What

?"' roared

doing there, you voices. several

attempt
I looked in fellows
to
"

lier Cava"

You

must

go he. The
"

with With

the

Stay,
we

said

all my
was

heart," I

Carracho
will
saw

shoot three
to

! if you you !
or

run

replied.
when
was razor we

governor
shown up He

shaving
him. held very He
a

round

and

were

to

four

forms, dirty uni-

in

his

shirt
hand.
was

sleeves, and
looked

all
on a

appearance

soldiers, just

in his

ill-

above up
at
as

the
me.

you
;

bay
means are

our

led winding path, which hill. Their muskets were pointed I doing ? What am Nothing, said at the save I, looking see," this is and for no by running, as for course." You a ground and prisoner," said they, you
me,
" "
"'

natured,
his He and and

perhaps owing to in his toilet. thus interrupted being asked three two me or questions, I had that a on learning passport,
which
was

the

bearer he

of told So
as

a me

letter that

to

the
was

English
at

consul,
of the

I
to

"

to depart. libert)^

I bowed I had

the
to

must
was

come

with

us

to

the

fort."

"

just thinking
"

of

going there," I

plied, re-

governor the governor my At the

town,

done

of the
to

fort, and
my inn.
but

making
little in
a

me.

The

desirous up
to

thus kindly invited 50U is the very spot I was of seeing." I thereupon climbed before fort where

exit, proceeded

Vigo
of
a

accomplished days,

way

of distribution, and, few

after

journ so-

place they instantlysuiTounded

the

they stood, when

me,

I returned

in the

and

with

direction

of Saint

James.

ir,9

CHAPTER

XXIX.

Arrival

Padron at Projected Enterprise The Alquilador Breach of Promise" An Odd A Plain Story" Rugged Paths The Desertion The A Companion Pony Dialogue The Estadea The Traveller's Pillow. Unpleasant Situation Benighted" The Hut
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

AKRivED
on

at Padron

late in the

ing, even-

me

; but at the

same

time observed, that

from Pontevedra and it was and a terrible journeyfor man my return to be paid Vigo. It -was my intention at tiiis horse, and that he expected and horses place to send my servant accordingly.I consented to give him and to hire a guide what he demanded, but on the express to Santiago, condition that he would cult Cape Finisterra. It would be diffiperform his of for 1 to assign any plausible me reason as himself, attending promise the ardent desire which four I entertained to to trust or was unwilling myself visit this place; but I remembered fi^ve days amongst the hills with any that whom he might low fellow of the town last year I had escaped almost by a and it miracle from shipwreck and death on who was select, possible very the rocky sides of this extreme He reof plied might play me some evil turn. point the Old World, and I thought that to u sed the term invariably by by the Spaniards when they see doubt or convey the Gospel to a place so wild and A'o tenga u$ted dered distrust exhibited : remote might perhaps be consicuidao" will in the I an acceptablepilgrimage go myself. Having thus of satisfactory, True it is the Maker. that matter but perfectly arranged eyes my remained of of those had I which 1 I one as thought, partook a slight copy afterwards retired broughtwith me on this last journey shortly ; supper, and but this reflection, far from discouragto repose. ing in my projected the alquilador I had requested to call me enterprise, duced prothe contrary etTect, the next I called to as me morning at three o'clock ;
to
"

forward

mind him and

serve

ever that,

since the Lord it has seemed

revealed

he

however

himself to man,
to

the accomplish
most

good to greatestends by
;
own a

apparentlythe
as an

insufficient means
copy
more

his appeardid not make ance till five,having, I suppose, overslept indeed which was himiself, my in a hurry,dressed, I arose case. few in things
a

I reflected that this one instrument thousand for the four

might put good the

bag,not forgetting
1 had resolved
to

Testament

which

than and I

nine

hundred

present to the inhabitants of Finisterra.

I then sallied forth and the who alquilador,
or saw

of ninety-nine copies
was aware

the edition of horses

my
was

friend
the tined des-

Madrid.
that my
or own were

was

holdingby

bridle the pony

jaca which

quiteincompetentto
as

the roads

and "ravines, and hills,

It in my expedition. reach Finisterra, to carry me paths lie through stony was a beautiful littleanimal,apparently without one single over rough and shaggy strong and full of life,
to

therefore determinea with

to

leave

wmte

hair

in
as

its whole

body, which
of the
crow.

them
was

behind

Antonio,
to

whom

was

black Behind

the

plumage
a

unwillmg expose fatigues to Avhom, a journey. I lost no time in figureof the biped species, I for the an at or paidlittle however, moment, sending alquilador, person who lets out horses,and informing I shall have him but of whom attention, iof my intention. He said he had an to say in the sequel. plenty ther wheexcellent mountain at pony my disposal, Having asked the horse-lender and that he himself would and to he was being ready proceed, accompany
the of such
;

it stood

strange looking

170

THE

BIBLE

IN The I
was

SPAIN. fellow ceased

so

LCHAP.
at speaking

XXIX.

answered

in the affirmative, I bade adieu to Antonio, and putting the pony in motion, ^^^e hastened out of the town,
at

last ; and

struck

and I then
terms

his craft, dence, imputhat time some villany, with find of

an

taking Santiago. Observing that the which I have previously alluded figui'e close to was at our heels,I following asked the alquilador it was, and who the reason of its following us ; to which he replied that it was servant of his, a who would proceed little with a us way
and of then mile
return.

firstthe road which

leads towards

before I could elapsed

answer.

reproachedhim
for his breach
was

in the bitterest

So
were

on

we

went
a

at

promise,and temptedto return to the town instantly, complain of him and have him punished to the alcalde, at any expense. To which he replied, Sir Cavalier, by so doing you will be to which Finisterra, nothingnearer you
said that I much
"

rapidrate,till we
a

vitud, a
off from

to get. Take seem so eager my advice, of the Convent of the Esclathe jaca,for you see it is getting spur on littlebeyond which and it is twelve longleagues from he had informed late,

within

quarter

me

that the

we

should

have

to turn

high road; but suddenlystoppedshort,and in

we were

here
a

he
ment mo-

you must night; and from thence to pass Finisterra is no trifle. As for the man, the
no

hence

to

Corcuvion, where

all at

stand-still.
reason

I of

tenga listed cuidao, he

and will

is the

best

the questioned but this, eyes were he seemed

guideas
no

to the

giiidein French,

Galicia,speaks English and

bear you pleasant ground, company." and with the to be counting By this time I had reflected that by I should indeed be intense solicitude the prints most to Padron of the returning hoofs of the oxen, and that by endeavouring only wasting time, mules, and horses in the dust of the road. I repeated to have the fellow punished no my
answer.

received

The

low's fel-

directed to the

demand
a

me

benefit would voice ; when, after to me accrue ; moreover, considerable pause, he somewhat to be a scoundrel in every vated as he seemed elehis eyes, without however looking sense of the word, I might as well proceed in the face, of any person as and said that he believed in the company in
a

louder

that which the

was

I entei-tained
was

the

idea
to

that

he

in his.

I therefore

signified my
told him and

tion intento

himself

to

guide me
was

if I

did, he

very

and of proceeding, Finisterra, sorry for, back, in the Lord's name,

go

repent of

he his sins. But havinggainedone point, as thingbeingquiteimpossible, of the way, and, he thoughthe had best attempt another ; ignorant perfectly of performing such so moreover, incapable placinghimself about a yard before a which I journey over rough and difficult the jaca,he said that the price had agreedto pay him the man for the loan of no ground, as he was longer he had been ; and, over and above all his horse (which by the by was the full he was he had pany sum that, engagedthat day to accomdemanded) was by no
a was
"

gentleman
that

to

Pontevedra, who
"

means

and sufficient,

that before I pro

ceeded I must promise him two dollars expectinghim. either drmik But," continued he, as I am always more, adding that he was desirous of behavinglike a caballero to mad when gain. he had made such a baror I was to now everybody,I have taken measures incensed, thoroughly and without a moment's This reflection, prevent your beingdisappointed. red spurthe jaca, which to the figm^e, I have person,"pointing flunghim down in He is a the dust,and ing Lookengaged to accompany passedover him. you. and is distance back the of most well at hundred a trustworthy person, with the route to Finisterra,yards, I saw him in the same acquainted standing place, his hat on the ground, gazing' having been thither several times with this very which after us, and crossing himself most de are jaca on you
at

moment

"

mounted. he

He

will, besides, be
on

an

voutly.
was, to

His

servant,

or

whatever

he

companionto you agreeable

as

the Avay,

speaks

French

and all
over

Englishvery
the world."

well, and

has been

in

offering any assistance his principal, the jaca no saw sooner motion its than he ran on side, by

far from

CHAP.

XXIX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

171

further thau I heard what the or coninieiit, promise no more. the thigh alquilador told you, but he is the greatest himself on striking lustily ceived with his right palm. We soon passed embustero in the whole land, and deafterAvards then he did he and presently when the Esclavitud, as you mised pro-

"without word

turned

to

the left into

stony broken

to

accompany
it

you.
was
sea an

serve

him

We path leadingto fields of maize. passed by several farm-houses,and at the sides of last arrived at a dingle, with which were plentifully overgrown dwarf

for my sins ; but when I left the

evil hour
and
me
a

deep

turned tliat he mariner

guide."
was a

He

then informed

native of

Padron,

and

having spent the greater by profession, with trees, part of his life in the Spanish to a small dark river shaded navy, in which service he had visited Cuba and crossed by a rude bridge. which we By this time I had had sufficient time many parts of the Spanish Americas, head to scan adding, when my master told you that my odd companion from had he I should bear you pleasant His utmost to foot. height, by company the made the most of himself, might perthe only word of truth haps way, it was
"

oaks, and

which

slanted

down

have

amounted

to

five feet

one

that
a

has

come

from

his before

mouth you

for reach

inclined inch ; but he seemed somewhat him with had gifted to stoop. Nature
an

month;

and

long

immense
his that

head,

and

placed it
amongst

clean the pear ap-

Finisterra you will have the servant, and not the

with
am or

that rejoiced

master, went

upon

shoulders, for
a

items of his

it did composition neck had been

not

included. Arms and brawny swung at his long and the whole of his frame was sides,
as
as strong built and powerful a

you : he is dull and heavy,but I what you see." He then gave two three first-rate summersets, again

and clapped his hands. laughed loudly, You would tinued, think," he conscarcely
" "

ler's wrest-

that I drove We this

that

; his

body was

of short but very was very long,and

some

supported by a nimble legs. Kis

would
nose

pair face

yesterday, heavilyladen, all

from
at
are

little pony the way

at

Coruiia.
o'clock

arrived

Padi'on

have
to
a

borne human
more

resemblance slight had the

countenance

been
to

to

morning; but we nevertheless both willingand able undertake a fresh journey. A'o tenga
two master
no said, or

for its place seemed visible, been and

have mouth
sisted con-

listedcuidao, as my
ever

one

occupiedby a entirely His staring large eyes.

of three hat

wry dress

of complains

that pony
we

of me."

In this kind
a

of discourse

articles:
and

an

old and
at the

considerable

way

througha
we

pi'oceeded turesqu very picreached

a

tattered broad

of the
crown

Portuguese kind,
narrow

country, until
beautiful
" "

at the skirt of a mountain. village This which be s aid to village," eaves, something appeared my guide, is called Los trousers. a shirt,and dirty canvass Angeles, because its built long since by the church was Willingto enter into conversation with of gold him, and remembering that the alqui- angels ; they placed a beam lador had informed that he spoke beneath me it,which they brought down if and in from which I asked heaven, was him, once a languages, English, he had of God's acted in rafter house. the It runs all own capacity always of guide? Whereupon he turned his the way mider the ground from hence cathedral with the of to a singular expression Compostella." upon eyes which he a long leap, Passing throughthe village, my face, gave a loud laugh, and clappedhis hands thrice above his likewise informed me baths, possessed that he did not unmuch visited by the people of head. derstand and was Perceiving in we to the Santiago, shaped our course me, I repeated my demand and answered and doubled was French, a again by north-west, by so doing the laugh, and clapping. At last mountain which over rose leap, majestically he said,in broken with bare our heads, its top crowned Spanish, Master in and broken whilst God's on our mine, speak Spanish rocks, name, right, and understand still on the other side of a spacious I can you, and valley, better if you speakGallegau^ but I can with tlie a high was range connected

at the

"

172

THE
to

BIBLE
of Saint

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXIX.

mountains James.
rose

the the

northward summit

On

high embattled guide informed me

mira,
an

of this range towers, which my those of Altaruined castle, merly forin this
name.

were

ancient and

of where he was. unconscious evidently On my shouting to him, however, and whether he intended to sleep inquiring all day, instead of conducting me to his he Finisterra, dropped upon legs, snatched up
"

the

residence principal
counts

his hat, which

ran

lay on
of the

the

province of the

of that
we

Turning
at

now

due

west,

were

of a steep and bottom which led elevated reto more gions. pass, The half cost us nearly ascent an hour, and the difficulties of the the

instantly exclaiming, Yes, yes, and rugged follow me, captain,

soon

table,and

out

door,
"

I reraembei'

to

Finisterra

in

nO

I will lead you time." I looked he

was

after

him,

and
a

that perceived
we

hurryingat

considerable
"

such that I more than ground were once congratulated myself on having left my own horses behind,and being little mounted on the gallant pony which, accustomed such to paths,scrambled and eventually forward, bravely brought in the to us safety top of the ascent. Here we entered a Gallegancabin,or the choza,for the purpose of refreshing animal and ourselves. The quadruped ate some maize, whilst we two bipeds broa and regaled ourselves on some which whom we a woman aguardiente, found in the hut placed before us. I walked the the
out

direction in which

pace in the had hitherto been

proceeding.
will you leave have

Stop," said
me

I,

"

stop !
?

here with

the pony turned

Stop; we Stop!" He, however,

not

paidthe
never

reckoning.
his
a

head minute which the

for

moment,
out

and

in less than

was

of
a now

sight. The
crib at
to
one

was

tied to

pony, end of and It

was

cabin, began
to

ally, neighterrific-

mane

and to erect its tail plunge, in a most manner. singular strained at the halter tillI

tore

and
"

that strangulation would apprehensive

ensue.
are

Woman,"
what the

exclaimed,
had

"

where all

for

few minutes

to

observe
on

aspect of the country, and

found bench my where I had

my He

you, and this ?" But

is the hostess

meaning of

likewise

return

on guide flist asleep

left him.

and though I ran about disappeai-ed, the choza, shoutingmyself hoarse, no

his back returned. The sat bolt upright, was supported answer pony still and his legs and to strain at the : the wall, against pendulous, continued to scream within three inches of the ground, than ever. Am i being halter more violently too short to reach it. I remained gazing I beset with lunatics ?" I cried,and I him for at least five minutes, flinging down a peseta on the table, upon whilst he enjoyed slumbers seemingly ixnloosed the halter, and attemptedto intraduce the bit into the mouth of the as quietand profoundas those of death itself His face broughtpowerfully animal. possible to This, however, I found immind of those uncouth Eeleased from effect. the to some visages my
"
.

of saints and
seen

abbots

which There

are

sionally occa-

the pony laalter, of door, in spite I could abandon m.ake

to

made

at

once

for the
"

in the niches of

of the walls
was

all the detain

"

efforts which it.

am a

of ruined

convents.

not

the

If you
a

gleam slightest
which

in vitality

his

tenance, coun-

me," said I,
there with

I is

in

pretty
for I
mo-

for colour

might
was

have rude

as

been of and battered

at

rigidity situation ; but !" stone, and which everything

as

and

remedy
words in
a

which

one

of the
have

sprang
ment
me

into the
more
a

saddle,and
creature
was

stone

heads
the

which Icolmkill, of twelve

braved years.

winds

hundred his face

I continued

gazingon

till I became
its harassed

ing almost alarmed, concludand

departedfrom On tenement. fetigued him the rather roughlyby shaking my shoulder he slowly awoke, openinghis with a stare, and then closing them he Aras again. For a few moments
that life might have

bearing rapid gallopin the direction, I supposed, of Finisterra. My posias tion, however the to reader, diverting rather critical to myself. I was vras the back of a spirited on animal, over which I had no control,dashingalong a dangerous and unknown path. 1 could not discover the slightest -s^estige of my guide,nor did I pass any one
at

the

CHAP.

XXIX.]
Mlioin I could

THE
derive

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

1:3

from

Indeed the
was

speedof

so

great,that

even

mation. upon this last, his arms folded, and his any inforthe animal tain, mouneyes fixed upon the neighbouring I beheld a figure which in the event of still frequently
recurs

a passenger, meeting or overtaking my have hoped to exchange I could scarcely a

to

my

thoughts, ally especithe my

away run-

when

asleepand oppressed by

word

with

him.

"

Is the pony den of

trained

to

this work?"
me carrying

said I, mentally. "Is

to some

nightmai-e.This guide.
"

figurewas

he he

banditti,
or

Good day MijseJf.

The
Avater

where Both

my follow

throat his

will be cut,

does

weather

to you, my tleman. genis hot,and yonder

master

by instinct ?"

appears

delicious.

am

almost

I however soon temptedto dismount and regalemyself suspicions abandoned ; the pony'sspeed relaxed, with a slight draught. He Guide. Your he appearedto have lostthe road. worship can do no looked about mieasily : at last, coming better. The day is,as you say, hot; do no better than drink a little to a sandy spot, he put his nostrils to you can I have myself the groimd, and then suddenly flung of this water. justdrunk. of these
"

I would himself down, and wallowed in true pony not, and fashion, I was not hurt, instantlygivethat pony and blown. the to slip made of this opportunity use bit into his had been

however, advise
any ; it appears may well be
so.

to you heated

mouth, which

previously
his

It 31i/self.
"

I have

in at least two leagiaes galloping in quest of the road. I then remouuted pursuitof a fellow who engaged to serted debut who to Finisterra, This I soon found,and continued my guide me in a most The path manner me singular ; way for a considerable time. much believe him so so, that I almost lay over a moor, patched with heath

danglingbeneath

neck;

been

and furze,and
with
Sim

here
or

and

there

strewn

to not

be

and thief,

no

true
seen

man.

You ?

do

large stones,
had risen burned

rather rocks.

The

happen to
"

have

him

Guide. What kind of a man might high in the firmament, he be? I passed several fiercely. A short,thick fellow, who and women, men gazed at Ml/self. very people, like yourself, with a hump upon with surprise, me wondering, probably, mucn and
"

what

person of my
a

appearance

could

in so strange guide, a place. I inquiredof two females I met whether whom they had seen my did not or would either but they g-uide ; not understand me, and, exchanginga be about, without few

his back, and, excuse favoured countenance.

me,

of

very

illHe he

Guide.
ran

"

Ha,

ha ! I know That If he
"

him.

with is

me

to this

where fountain,
man,

has

justleft me.
no

lier, Sir Cava-

thief.

is

anythingat

rides of a fellow who words with each other in one all,he is a Ntiveiro is occasionally the clouds, and dialects of the Gallegan, upon the hundred

passedon.
I
came

whisked by a gust of wind. Having crossed the moor, away travel with that man Should you ever abruptly upon a convent, than one allow him more at the bottom never a deepravine, overhanging again, fallibly of which brawled a rapidstream. glassof anise at a time, or he will ininto the clouds and leave beautiful and picturesque mount It was a till spot : the sides of the ravine were thickly you, and then he will ride and run rather clothed

side
The

the other with wood, and on itself tall,black hill uplifted

was

he

comes

to

water-brook,or
fountain
"

knocks
one

his head

a against

then

and he is himself again. So large,and apparently draught, Sir Cavalier. deserted. Passing by it, I presently you are goingto Finisterra, it is singular Now to reached a small village, as enough, that deserted, edifice all appearance,
saw as
a as

the

convent, for I
so

cavalier

much
to

of conduct
to

not

nor individual, single

much

I
a

me dog to welcome however, proceeded,

with

his bark.

engaged me morning ; I
way ; so to travel
own

appearance your him there this lost him

me our on

however

the

until I reached

it appears

the fountain,

waters

of which

fi'om a stone

into a pillar

gushed trough. SeatAfl

togetheruntil
I find my

you
f/wn

liestplan find your

master.

guideand

174

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXIX.
wheels
were

It

might be
that and

about
we

two

o'clock in the
a

afternoon ruinous

reached I

long and
tiquity, an-

by large trees, and its with a dismal and turning

noise.
"

monotonous

of great bridge, seemingly

Do

you

tliink

we

shall reach

which,

as

was

informed

Corcurvion

by
Don
at

my

was guide,

called the
a

Alonzo.

It crossed

bridgeof of species
sea
was

guide,as
to
a

we

creek, or
no

rather frith,for the of

savage almost boundless Guide.

"

to-night?"said I to the emerged from this valley which appearedof moor,

extent.

considerable
town
we

and distance,
at
our

the

small "When in
never

Noyo lay
crossed my

have

that
"

right. in no manner and I by no bi-idge,

shall be I have
we

shall I do not, I do not. We reach Corcuvion to-night,

means

said captain,"
an

guide,

we

of this

moor.

The

like the appearance is rapidly ing, sinksun

come on
a

imknown been

country, for

and

then,if there
"

haze,
the

farther than

for and

far so Finisterra, heard there, I never

Noyo, and as from having been

of such
a

shall meet ?

the Estade'a. do you

mean

Myself, What
Estadea

by

place;

tade'a? of two or GHiJe." What do I mean by the Esthough I have inquired I three people since we have been upon what asks me My master little mean I have met this expedition, as they know by the Estadinha.* about it as I do. Taking all things, the Estadinha but once, and it was upon it appears a moor however, into consideration, something like tliis. I was in do is company and a with several women, that the best thingwe can to me thick haze came to push forward to Corcuvion, which suddenly a on, and thousand is five mad shone above our heads leagues from hence, and lights reach ere nightwhich we fall, in the haze, and there was a wild cry, may perhaps find the way or get any if we and the women fell to the can ground to direct us; one for,as I told you screaming Estadta ! Estade'a ! and I To before, I know nothingabout it." myself fell to the ground crying out have I confided myself," Estadinha fine hands the spi! The Estade'a are rits
"

said I
say,

"

however, we
to

had

best,as you

of the

dead

which

push forward we peradventure,

Corcuvion,where,

haze, bearing candles

ride upon the ia their hands.

hear something I tell 5-0U frankly, may my master, that if of Finisterra, and find a guide to conthe assembly of the souls, I duct meet we us." Whereupon, with a hop,skip, shall leave you at once, and then I shall and a jimap, he againset forward at at rapidpace, stoppingoccasionally
a a run

and

run

till I drown about

myselfin
We

the

sea, somewhere
not

Muros. tliis

shall

choza,

for the

purpose,

I suppose,

of

reach

Corcuvion
is that
we

night; my

though I understood making inquiries, scarcelyanything of the jargon in

which which We and he addressed

they answered

and the people, him.

in

find some may where these we moors, may upon hide our heads from the Estadinha," The night overtook us ere we had

only hope
choza

in an there was, however, were soon extremely vild traversed the moor; and of the to no hillycountiy, scrambling haze, joy great up my down of the moon ra^dnes, wading brooks, and guide,and a comer tially parand faces with hands tion, illumined our our scratching steps. Our situaa brambles, on which was however, : we plentiful drearyenough grew wild of the of heath to some wildest mulberries, the were gather crop upon made of of which a stop. wildest we occasionally provinceof Spain,ignorant of the way we and we oar course our Owing to the roughness directing way, The made no scarcelyknew whither, for my guide great progress. pony of the guide, repeatedly followed close at the'back declared to me that he did
so

near,

indeed, that
his

its

nose

almost

not

believe that such

or existed,

place as

terra Finisin
as

touched
grew had
trace

wilder
a passed

The shoulder. country and wilder, and, since we water-mill, we had lost all habitation. of
a

if it did

it was exist,
a

some
*

bleak Inha, when

mountain
affixed It is much
to

pointedout
-ft

of human
at

The

mill

diminutive.

in

use

ords, serves amongst

the

stood

the bottom

valleyshaded

GaUegans.

176

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

XXIX.

an

instant, serious,

with half but

a

singular
droll;
he

expression,
however,

straw.

For there in the

curiosity's
was

sake,
a

asked
as a

half
said

whether
as

such

thing

nothing,
and of with the

slapped spring
with I

his

thigh
touched

bed
"

cabin.

usual,
the roof

nearly
his discovered

No,"

replied

the
I any the the

"

man

nor

nearer

cabin

grotesque
that

than in
we

Corcuvion.
my

never

entered of my
or

one

head.
we were

Upon
still

inquiry,
two

life,

nor

one

family
among

long
and

leagues
that and the
was

distant road
hard whether

sleep
straw

around
with
too

hearth,
cattle."

from
over

Corcurvion,
moor

lay
to

the I but

and
host
now

hill,

was

old

traveller

to

complain,
ladder

find.
we were

Our

demanded

forthwith

ascended of

by

into
and cloak
on

hungry,
in the

and,

upon

being

swered an-

species

loft,
where

tolerably
I and

large
my

affirmative,
eggs
was

produced
some

nearly
beneath

empty,
my which
reasons

placed lay
down
to

about Whilst

dozen
our

and

bacon.
a

head,
I

the

supper

cooking,
between my

long guide
on

boards,
for
more

preferred
than
one.

the I heard

straw,
the for
see a

conversation
and in the

ensued

family,
I I

but tried

as

it
in

was

carried
to

people
considerable

below

talking
time,

in and

Gallegan
could the

Gallegan,
it.

vain

stand underthat

the stices interever, howsank

believe,
to

however,
witches
was

it

gleams
of

of

the the

fire

through
The

principally
as

related the

and

craft, witch-

floor.
died
no

voices,
the be fire

Estadea After supper

:

frequently
I

gi-adually
low and could I and I

away,

mentioned.
where I

demanded
the host ing say-

longer
started,
into
was

guished. distin-

could
to
a

rest

whereupon
in
was

dozed,

dozed
a

again, profound

pointed
that

trap-door
there

the
a

roof,
loft where

dropped
from

finally
which of the
I

above

sleep,
the

only
cock.

roused

by

could

sleep

by

myself,

and

have

clean

crowing

second

177

CHAPTER
Autumnal
"

XXX.

Morning" The
The Arrest The Book
"
"

World's

End"

Co^cu^^on"
"

Bay ? Passport
Eccentric

The Beach
"

Fisher-MagistrateCalros
A Liberal
"

Duyo" Rey"

The Hard

Cape"
"

A Whale"

Tlie Outer is your

"

of Belief" Where The Grand

"

mighty Hospitality.

The

Handmaid

Baintham

running Vigo and Pontevedra intervene, deep into the land. These bays and firthsare invariably of an immense I satisfied our our way to Corcuvion, him with a couple depth, and host by presenting capaciousto sufficiently shelter the navies of the proudest and he requested of pesetas, ritime maas a favour, nations. that if on our return we passed that There is an overtaken by the night, air of stem and savage way, and were abode bewould againtake up our neath grandeurin every thingaround,which we the imagination. his roof. This I promised, at the stronglycaptivates of This savage coast is the first glimpse best time determining to do my same the contingency; as to guard against Spainwhich the voyager from the north his way has ploughed in the loft of a Galleganhut, catches, or he who sleeping the wide Atlantic : and well does the night across to passing thoughpreferable to realize all his visions of this or mountain, is any thing it seem on a moor

It

was

beautiful autumnal

when

we

left the

clioza and

moi'ning pursued

of

but desirable. So we againstarted at

strange land.
a
"

"Yes,"
"

he

exclaims,

rapidpace "this is indeed Spain stern, flinty, and footpaths, Spain laud emblematic of those spirits alongrough bridle-ways From she has given birth. In about amidst ftirze and brushwood. to which
an

hour the

we

obtained
a

view

of the sea,
we

what have who

land

but

that

before

me

could

and, directed by
on
moor

lad whom

found

those portentousbeings proceeded

miserable
the the brow

a few employed in tending bent to course we our sheep, reached and at length north-west,

the New

of

an

eminence,
time
to

whore

we

astounded the Old World and filled with horror and blood : Alba Cortez and Pizarro : stem and Philip, colossal spectres loomingthrough the

stoppedfor

some

survey
us.

the

gloom

of

bygone

years,

which prospect

openedbefore

aranite mountains

like yonder through the haze,

that the the eye of the mariner. It was Yes, not without reason upon mitable indoof Finisterrsc to Latins gave the name yonder is indeed Spain; flinty, had arrived exactly this district. We Spain; land emblematic of its !" in my boyhood I had as sons at such a place I viewed that when As for myself, to myselfas the termination of pictured and its savage wide there was a the world, beyond which shore, I ocean

wild
saw

sea,

or

or abyss, me an

chaos.

now

far before

and below me a and precipitous of lofty coast.

immense ocean, line and irregular long

there is

Such is the grave, and such are and wilds, sides ; those moors itsterrific

cried,

"

in the whole
coast than

world

which I have passed, are the rough, over Certainly and drearyjourney of life. Cheered bolder with hope,we no along through struggle all the

shore,from the Gallegau of the INIinho to Cape debouchement wall Finisterra. It consists of a granite
the

mountain,
grave and

difficulties of moor, bog, and The what? to arrive at

"

its

dreary sides. Oh,

in the

of savage mountains, for the most

serrated
at

the top, and

hope not desert us occasionally hope in the Eedeemer

part
We

like those where bays and firths broken,

descended

may last hour: and in God !" from the eminence, k2

178 "nd

THE

BIBLE

IN
now

SPAIN.
desolate

[chap.XXX.
bay
had
once

ravines

of the sea amidst again lost sight and dingles, amongst which of seen. patches pinewere occasionally to descend, at last came, we Continuing of not to the sea, but to the extremity lage a long narrow where stood a vilfirth,
or

resounded
the then

the voices of keels and commerce with known

"

when myriads, of all the wafted

to

world

were name

What

is the

of this

hamlet ; whilst
on

at

small

tance, or dis-

said I to a woman, as we six ruinous houses at the bend

we

Duyo. ?" village passed by five

of the the

the western almost

side of the

firth, bay, ere

entered upon

peninsula

which one considerably appeared larger,

was

of Finisterra.

" said the Galentitled to the appellationThis is no \allage," " this is no village, Sir Cavalier ; of town. This last was Corlegan, cuvion ; the first, this is Duyo." if I forget this is a city, not, was for the gloryof the world ! hastened on called Eia de Silla. We So much These huts were ail that the roaring I bade mv to Corcuvion,where euide

indeed

make He

Fmisierra. inquiries respecting entered the door of

a

sea

ana

tne

tooth of time

had

left of
now

! wine-house, Duyo, the great city noise and

Onward

to

from which

proceededmuch
me

Finisterra.
It was of village
one

aisd presently vociferation, returned,

informing
terra
was

that the

of Finisvillage
a

mid-daywhen we reached the of about Finisterra, consisting

side of the

distant
man,

about

leagueand

hundred

half.
"

in evidently him

followed intoxication, Are

"

a state of the door : to

southern

houses,and built on the fore just bepeninsula,

it rises into the

Cavalyou bound for Finisterra, he heiros ? shouted. " " I replied, we ar*^ Yes, my friend," goingthither."
"

which
in vain

is called the for

an

huge Cape.

bluff head We

sought
we

inn

or

venta, where
moment

might stable our we thoughtthat

beast ; at one had found we

one, and

going amongst a had even tied the animal to the manger. de borrachos)," flock of drunkards (fato Upon our going out, however, he was and driven forth into he answered. that they instantly "Take untied, care the street. The few people whom do not play you a trick." we We saw across a appeared to gaze upon us in a passed on, and, striking of the at the back We, however, took manner. singular sandy peninsula
Then you
are

and mense littlenotice of these circumstances, imstreet proceededalong the sti-aggling until we foimd shelter in the house of of which formed by the far-famed was whom of which Castilian a some now saw we Finisterra, shop-keeper, cape had brought to this comer of chance far into the sea. before us stretching town,
soon

reached the shore of

an

bay,the north-westernmost

end

Along a
we

beach

of

white dazzling the cape,

sand the

Galicia, this
"

end of the world.

to

Our

advanced of
our

towards

first care

was

feed

the

animal,who

now began to exhibit considerable journey. The sun was then reand quested shiningbrightly, every objectwas symptoms of fatigue. We refreshment for illumined The his some beams. sea ourselves; lay by and in about an before us like a vast mirror, and the voury sahour, a tolerably about three the shore broke which fish, pounds, waves weighing upon and fresh from the bay,was to producea so were prepared tiny as scarcely who appeared On we sped along the deep for us by an old woman murmur. officiate Having as house-keeper. winding bay, overhung by gigantic to

bourne

hills and mountains.

began
It
to
was

to

tions Strangerecollecthrong upon my mind.

finished

our

meal, I and

my

imcouth

companion went
We

and prepared to forth,

upon

this beach

that,according ascend the mountain.

mantled to examine a small disstopped the bay ; fort or battery facing and, whilst engagedin this examination,
it more
we

dom, the tradition of all ancient ChristenSaint James, the patron saint of
heathen had

preachedthe Gospel to the Spain, Spaniards.Upon this beach

once

than and

once

occurred the

to me

that
tiny scru-

stood

an

immense
all

commercial

were

ourselves

of objects I

in tlie proudest city,

Spain. This

: indeed investigation

cau^t

CHAP.

XXX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN
of
was

SPAIN.

179 far
as

than one countenance of more glimpse peeringupon us throughthe holes and chasms of the walls. and We
now

Finisterra, as
shoal of

the

entrance,
an

variegated beautifully by
sardinhas,on
monster
was

mense im-

menced com-

whose
bably pronorthern

and, ascending Finisterra;

extreme

skirts the

making
we

numerous
our

long detours,

feasting. From

the

wound
sun

The

whence

looked down sides. side of the cape we way up its flinty upon reached the top of heaven, a smaller bay,the shore of which was he showered us dicularly overhungby rocks of various and groperpenupon tesque and fiercest rays. his brightest shapes ; this is called the outer had
were

My
the

boots

torn, my my

streamed perspiration
To

feet cut, and from my the toilsome

bay,or,
Praia
in the
seasons

in the
mar

do

languageof the comitry, defora: a fearful place

and

brow.
ascent
nor

guide, however,
heat of the

of wind

tempest, when

appearedto be neither
had
no

difficult. The

day for
was

long swell of the Atlantic in is broken into surf and foam

rocks in the and with which Even calmest
a

pouring by the
is
a

him

terrors, no

moisture

sunken

it abounds. there in that

from his tanned countenance; wrung short breath; and he drew one not hopped upon the stones and rocks with
all the of provokingagility
a

day

rumbling bay which

hollow

roar

fill the

heart Avith uneasy

mountain

sensations.

goat.
one

Before
of
"

we

had

half

the

quite exhausted.
Cheer
*'

ascent, I felt I reeled and

accomplished On all sides there was grandeurand myself sublimity. After gazing from the gered. summit of the cape for nearlyan hour, stagmine,
a

of

good

up, master and have no cheer, Yonder I

see

be

we

care," said
wall of the it in
we

descended. On reaching the

taken up
our

house

where

we

the^guide.
stones; shade."
arm

had

temporary habitation,

lie down He

beneath

round

put his long and strong my waist,and, though his

was as

were

that the portal pied occuwas perceived of whom by several men, some the floor drinking on reclining
out

stature

of

compared with mine me dwarf, he supported

a

that which

wine
are

if I had

much
a

of small earthen pans, which used in this part of Galicia. civil salutation I

been seemed the of

child

to

rude

wall

With and in Here

on

passed on,

to traverse

and hill,

the greatestpart of served probably as a kind It

was

ascended

T^hich
there which

we was

the staircase to the room had taken our repast

a

bomidary. shady spot: at last he perceiveda small chasm, perhapsscooped by some shepherdas a couch in which to enjoy his siesta. In this he laid me gently hat, down, and, takingoff his enormous with great assiduity. commenced me fanning I revived, and. after By degrees rested for considerable a time, having I again attemptedtlie ascent, which, I at with the assistance of my guide, accomplished. length We now were standingat a great
a

difficult to find

rude

and

bed, dirty

with

flung myself,exhausted fatigue.I determined to take a

I in the

little repose, and

eveningto call the people of the placetogether, to read of the Scripture, and few chapters a
to

then

address

them slumbers

with I
was

little
soon

Christian
but asleep,
means

exhortation.
my

were
was

by

no

tranquil.I
with

thoughtI
and

rounded sur-

difficulties of rocks

various

kinds, amongst

ravines,

altitude between
of waters
ten

two

bays :
us.

ness the wilder-

vainlyendeavouringto extricate myself; selves uncouth visagesshowed themlows, the trees and in the holcloven out thrusting tongues, and around looked cries. I uttering angry amidst for my

before barks
seas was

Of

all the that old It

thousand

which of sight be

annually

plough those
cape, not
one

in
to

but could not find him ; guide, blue shinywaste, broken by no was a methought,however, that I heard his voice down a the black head of a spermasave deep dingle. He apobject peared ceti How of me. to be talking would long whale, which occasionally continued in these wild I might have show itself at the top, casting up thin of brine. The principal suddenly jets bay, that dreams I know not. I was

descried.

180

THE seized

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
''

[chap. XXX,
"

however,
and I looked

rest; my guide into a long low room, having led me that of an elderly placed me in the middle of the floor, man, built as strong as a giant, with much and then hurryingto the door, he endeavoured beard and and the crowd who to repulse whisker, huge bushy dressed in the habiliments of with us. This he effected, strove to enter eyebrows, fisherman in hand without his considerable a rusty was a though not ; twice musket. or pelled comdifficulty, being once

lightof

der, roughlyby the shoulfrom bed. the nearlydragged in and amazement, by the up the descendingsun I beheld
me a

exclaiming, leg, voy yo!"

We

Carracho 1 tamhien
a

at last reached

house

of rather

largersize than

the

hanging over figure ; it was

wild

and

uncouth

Who Ml/self.
"

are

you, and what

am

do but it is

to

have I

recourse

to the

butt of the

you

want

?
"

his musket Who up I and

matters

to drive
now

back looked

unauthorized
round

Figure.
little. Get
you I want.
"

intruders.
room.

follow me;

It was
see

I could
to interfere with

furnished : scantily nothingbut some tubs and rather

mast

do By what authority Ml/self. thus presume

"

me

you ? the
me

the barrels,
or

of

boat, and
the tubs

sail
were

two.
or

Seated four
men
or

upon

of Figure. By the authority Follow of Finisterra. justicia Calros, or it will be peaceably,

worse
"

the

for you.

Calros," said I,
mean

"

what

does the

coarselydressed, shipwrights.The was a surly illprincipal personage fellow of about thirtytemperedlooking I discovered to whom five, eventually
three
like fishermen be In the alcalde of house
comer

person
most

"

prudent to
followed him

however, thoughtit, obey his command,

down the staircase.
now

and Finisterra,
we
now

lord
were.

of the
a

in which I

and

The

shop

and

the

portalwere
and children
a

who guide,
two stout
one
a

throngedwith
terra, men,
and nudity, in haste latter for the

the inhabitants of Finismost

of my caughta glimpse in durance, was evidently fishermen standingbefore

a

women,

part in

; the state of

him,
with about

with for

musket

and

the other looked

boat-hook.
me
a

After I had

with been

bodies wet
their

and

ping, drip-

giving his probablysummoned in the me : gambols Who brine. Through this crowd the figure are port, you, where is your passand what terra describe whom I have to brings you to Finisattempted ? rity. pushed his way with an air ot authoMuself. I am an Englishman. Here nisterra. in the street,he laid his is my passport,and I came On arriving to see Fihand not roughly heav}' upon my arm, It is Calros ! it is Calros !" however. This replyseemed to discomfit them voices he has for said a hundred a come moment. They looked at each ; and the justicia to Finisterra at last, at my otner, tnen passport. At length ing Wonderthe alcalde, it with his finger, have now striking got hold of him." having
from
"

minute, the alcalde, whiskers thus addressed a twist,

"

"

"

"

"

what my As

all this

could

mean,

tended at-

bellowed
"

forth is no

strange conductor
we

down

the

This

Spanishpassport pears ; it apin French." have

street.

increased

every

the crowd proceeded, and moment, following the

to

to be written

Myself. I
"

Even vociferating. doors the to brought of what

was

sick
a

were

that carry
a

I
a

am

obtain

view I

already told you foreigner. I of course foreign passport.

a
"

glance at
M-as

Key. heard before of I never struck by the eagerness particularly j\Jyself. such a such indeed of a a one nor cripple, king, man, displayed by of his of the in entreaties name. who, spite Alcalde. Hark with the crowd, and having to the fellow : he mixed yfife, has the forward to lost his crutch, on one audacity say that he has hopped
the
are
"

gouig redoubtable

forward, and
Calros.

Alcalde.
that you

Then
not

you

mean

to assert

Calros

"

CHAP.

XXX.J
heard of Calros

THE
the

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

181 Nelson

never

pretender,stand
Here

by

when

he

was

shot

who

calls himself
"

king.
mean

dead ?" the alcalde became

"

the by Calros, can reply be serious. is,that you can scarcely You might as well assert that yonder whom I see you poor fellow,my guide, his is have made prisoner, nephew, the If you Mijself. Don pretender all I Carlos,

incensed. than he
come
were

He

is no

more

an

violently man English"

an

in

if he exclaimed ; yourself," would he have Englishman across this manner, skulking Not ia
us,
a or

the land ? have

come

so, I trow. to the

infante Don Alcalde.

Sebastian.
"

He would recommended to ship,

See, you

have

betrayed
person
we

some

of

Catalans.
"

He

that is the very yourself; suppose him to be.

would does

have he

come

nobody they
can

knows know

to buy ; but to trade him in Finisterra, nor

Myself.It
"

both

is true that hunchbacks. But how

are

anybody: and

the first

I be

like Don

Carlos ? I have and appearance of a Spaniard,

a

the nothing
am

he thing, moreover, the fort, is to inspect reaches this place that he does when

nearly and to ascend the mountain, where, no foot taller than the pretender. doubt, he has been marking out a camp. Alcalde." ThdiX makes no difference ; What bringshim to Finisterra if he is
of
course

you

carry

about you,

by means and appear tall yourself, to your pleasure. according

This last was
that I had
so

neither Calros waistcoats many guise cioso ? " of which you disor

nor

bribon

of

fac-

low

I felt that there in justice

some

was

good

deal of

of these

remarks, and I

conclusive
of
course

an

ment argu-

was

aware,

that I had for the firsttime,

a

nothing to

indeed committed
in

great imprudence

replyto
him
some

it. The

alcalde looked around

"

coming to

this wild

in

notable door.
men
" "

triumph,as if he had made discovery. Yes, it is

It will be
as

these

barbarous
at

and among place, without being people, motive which could

able to appear

assign any

said the crowd at Calros ; it is Calros,"

the well to have these shot

all valid in

their eyes. I endeavoured to convince the alcalde that I

across

alcalde

continued the had come instantly," the if not two are they tenders, pre; purpose they are at any rate two of the with the

the

country for the

factious."
"

am

by no

means

either one or the voice. The of Finisterra turned justicia I their eyes in the direction from which and so did I. these words proceeded, rested upon the figure who Our glances held watch at the door. He had planted
are

making myself acquainted which objects many remarkable tion informaand of obtaining it contained, the character and condition certain that they respecting could of the inhabitants. He said a grulf other,"
of

understand no such motives. did you ascend the mountain

"

"

What for ? "

To

have
never

! I prospects." Disparate lived at Finisterra forty years, and

see
"

not

do

ascended that movintain. I would it in a day like this for two

of

the barrel of his musket and

"

on

the

floor, oimces

gold.
a

You
out

went
a

to

tudes, take altiI had

was

now

leaninghis chin
means or

against they
been

and to mark

camp."
his

the butt. I
am

however,

staunch

friend in old Antonio,

by no
one

certain that
"

who the

from insisted,

are

either

the

other,"repeated of
I have

that all I had English,

he, advancingforward.
i "

this man," pointing to myself, examining and listening whilst he spoke, and it

appears
prove
an

to

me

that

after all he he has knows Who

Englishman ;
than Antonio
a

may their the he

not

be true. " The very possibly " have more said he, money that what on know to do with, and the wander all world, over account they

knowledge said might English," than they

payingdearlyfor
care a

what He

no

other

i
'

very

look and voice. has better their

groat for."
to examine

then

people proceeded,
of the alcalde,

better English and who

not

de la Trava, Has he

the notwithstanding
me

frowns entire

? right

in the

sailed in their

eaten

ships ; has and did biscuit;

language.
of

His

own was

English knowledge
two

he

not

this tongue

confined to

182

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXX.

words I shot the guidethey must which shoot me too ; knifeand fork, time on into Spanish at the the same lents, expatiating by their equivaand was forthwith pronounced an and barbarity of taking away cruelty Englishman by the old fellow, who, the life of a poor unfortunate fellow the first his musket, exclaimed at who, as might be seen : brandishing This man is not Calros ; he is what was only half-witted; glance, adding, he declares himself to be, an Englishthat if any person was guilty man, moreover, in this case him it was and whosoever seeks to injm-e myself,as the other Antonio shall have de la could onlybe considered in the light of to do with under my orders. Xo a servant Trava, el valiente de Finisterra." acting The safest plan, after all,"said the person sought to impugn this verdict, and it was at lengthdeteinnined that I alcalde, appears to be to send you should be sent to Corcuvion, to be exboth prisoners the to Corcuvion,where amined of you as he by the alcalde mayor of the head alcalde can dispose
"

"vrords

rendered

"

"

"

"

district.
the let

But," Finisterra, what

" "

said

the
to

alcalde done least is

of

is

be
at

with
no

other fellow ?
us

He

You must, however, proper. for for it is not to be escort pay ; your that the of Finisterra supposed housekeepers have ramble chance
town.
"

thinks

Englishman.
hear what

Bring him

forward, and

else nothing the

to

do than to

himhe has to say for self. who Now, fellow, are you, and what is your master ? I am Guide. a Sebastianillo, poor
"
"

country with every fellow who finds Ins way to this " As for that matter," said
about
"

Antonio,
both. I

I will

take

broken
master

whom

Padron, my for the present is the gentleman and fear no valiant and I am sure see, the most you
of all the when He has I make and is

mariner

of

and

am

the valiente
two
men

that

the my

chargeof them of Finisterra, Moreover, living. here will captain

no

wealthy English. two ships at Vigo laden with riches.

told you there in
so our
"

it worth

while, else he is
let us be
at once,
as

Englishman.Therefore
set out

quick,
it

you

first seized me
is your

up

for Corcuvion

posada.
Where

Alcalde.
"

passport?

I have no passport. Who Guide. would think of bringinga passport to such

a

late. getting I must captain, baggage. You coui'se? sure."

First of all,however, search you and your have

no

arms,

of all

But

it is best to

make

where placeas this,

are

I don't suppose
can

there

two
no

individuals who

read?

I have

passport; my
includes
not.
me.

ter's mas-

passport of
Alcalde.
you shall have
"

course

Long ere it was dark I found myself againon the pony, in company with my guide,wending our way along the
beach Antonio
on

It does
no

And have

since
fessed con-

in

the de

direction of Corcuvion.

and passpoi-t,
name

la Trava musket

tramped heavily
on

that your be shot. and the

is Sebastian, you Antonio de la Trava,

musketeers lead this shoot him before

his before,
"

his shoulder. tonio, afraid,Anwith

on

Mijself Are
to

do

you Sebastianillo

be
one

thus

you alone

not

two

soners, pricould

and forth,

of whom
to

is

horseback?
we

the door. Antonio

it. With

If

we

were

tiy, I think
"

de la Trava.

"

With
you

much order

Seiior Alcalde, since pleasure,

not trouble

overpower Antonio de

you. de la Trava.

am

the

liente va-

I shall respectto this fellow,

and Finisterra,
"

I fear no

odds.

least is

no

myselfto interfere. He Englishman. He has more

a

at

Myself. Why do you call the valiente of Finisterra ?

Antonio de la
me so.

yourself
whole the

the look of launches. from

wizard

or

nuveiro ;

one

of

Trava. When and

"

The

those devils who

raise storms and sink Moreover, he says he is those of that

districtcall
came

the French

to

Finisterra

demolished

three perishedby my are hand. I foi-t, place all thieves and dmnkards. stood on the moimtain, up where I saw They once and I would played me a ti'ick, gladly you scramblingto-day. I continued of the whole pueblo. fij-ing be at the shooting at the enemy, until three detached I now and said that if they themselves in pm*suitof The fools ! interfered, me.

Padron, and

184

THE
I do
not

BIBLE
you the

Ii\ SPAIN.
Bentham.
man

[chap.XXX.

pose? Vaya!
worse

like

for

that.

went

you to all Christinos and you

not

But, being so, how where Finisterra, theyare

?

negros ? None go to my village with you there. have meddled of my

are village

Why

did

Yes! remarkable a very in his way. Alcalde. In his way! in all ways. The which the universal genius most
"

would
Those

world and
a

ever

Lope
"

: produced de Vega.

"

a Plato, Solon,

the drunkards

of a difierent stamp to of of Finisterra. Those interfere with how honest

; he is

Myself. I
I have

have
no

never

ings. read his writthat he

a

doubt
you

was

never my village people.Vaya !

Solon;
should

and

as

say,
as

Plato.

ard 1 hate that drunk-

have thought, however, scarcely be How ranked

a

of Finisterra who
so

broughtyou
Senor

that he could

poet with

old and

ugly ;
to
once

were

itnot for the love

Lope

de

Vega.
"

which would

I bear
at

the

Alcalde, T
bid

unlock

the gate and your

you go forth, you and buen mozo."

servant, the

Antonio now me," said he ;

will be

"

" descended. Follow his worshipthe alcalde

ready to
to
a

receive

you

in

ment." mo-

surprising! I see, nothing of his you an writings, though Englishman. Now, ' here am I, a simple alcalde of Galicia, of Baintham I yet possess all the writings and I studythem that shelf, on day and night.
indeed,that
know

Alcalde.

Sebastian and him

upstairs
a

behind of low

we table,

myselffollowed where, seated room, beheld a young man

handsome He

Myself. You
"

Sir,possess doubtless.
I
most
mean

the

Englishlanguage.
"

Alcalde.

I do. I

that part of

stature, but
to

features, it which

is contained
am

in the in

and very
when
to
a

dressed. fashionably pearedBaintham. apbe inditing a letter, which, a countryman

had

of writings to glad see truly

these and

of his

Gothic

he

concluded, he delivered
He for
a moment

wildernesses.

I understand

secretary to be transcribed.
at me

then looked and the between

ciate your fixedly,excuse the have you endeavour

are

motives

apprethem: for visiting

conversation ensued following

us
"

:
"

and nideness which incivility experienced. But we will make to reparation. you
'

Alcalde.
informs
at
me

see

that you

are

an

glishman, EnYou

this moment

free: but

it is

and Finisterra.

here my friend Antonio that you have been arrested tells you
true ; and

Myself. He
"

but have

late ; I must find you a lodgingfor the night. I know one close by which will thither ! Let us repair just suit you. this moment. Stay,I think I see a book T Myseff. #""The
"

for him
fkllen

I believe

that I should

in your

hand.
New Testament,

by the hands
"

ermen. of those savage fish-

Alcalde.
are

The look

inhabitants of Finisterra
are

^fca/rfe." book is that? lde."\ What of the A portion Myself.

"

sacred
a

brave, and
to

all liberals.

the writings,

Bible.

Allow

me

Yes, all in form.

that you
as
as

your Truly it was have

at

passport?

Alcalde.

"

Why

do you
of my

carry such

theyshould only
as

diculous book with you ? very riarrested Myself One

"

tives moprincipal was

Carlist.
"

in
a

Finisterra visiting
to that wild
"

to

carry

Not Mijself.
"

but Carlist,

this book

place.
how gular. sinvery I have heard

Don Carlos himself. Alcalde. Oh ! most ridiculous ; mistake of the grand Baina countryman tham for such a Goth ! Excuse Mifself.
"

Alcalde.
that the

Ha,

ha !

Yes, I remember.
book.

me.

Sir, you

this eccentric prize Englishhighly the that How very singular Baintham of the grand speak countrymen should He monkish It
new
was

of the who I

grand somebody. Alcalde. The grand Baintham.

"

set

any book !
now

value late at
me

upon

that

old

has invented
to shortly

laws for all the world.

see

hope

them
ours.

adoptedin .Jeremy

friend attended he
was

and my night, to the lodging and

of
a

this unhappy country of Myself. Oh ! you

-

which which

had

destined for me,

mean

at the house

respectable

CHAP.

XXX.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

185

old

female,

where
room.

found the hand

clean I

and

and in

not

across

the with

country
nuveiros

on

pony,
men

comfortable
a

On
the

way of

slipped

company

and

of

gratuity
on

into

Antonio,
and in the him

Padron.

and

my of the

arrival,
the

formally,

Presently
the took alcalde into
an

arrived
with the excellent On
me
a

the

handmaid
which she for served her up

of she pared preter's mas-

presence
with he

alcalde,
which
to

presented
I

basket,
where

Testament,
carry remembrance whose behalf back

requested
and

kitchen,
supper

would in in

Finisterra,
of the
so

keep

man Englishettectualcalde demanded

friend.
bade

its

being

the first way

he

had

farewell,
he

having
in any

ally

interposed.
I will
"

whether my
I return

could

Antonio.

do

so,

your blow
our

worship,
from launcnes
reaa tn*;

forward
|
"

plans.
to
"

and

when

the

winds

Saint I

James

to-morrow,"

north-west,
from

preventing
to sea,

I
some

replied,
occasion

and

sincerely
occur

hope
which

that
will with

putting

I my

will

your

will
to

present.
when you it will

Farewell,
next
come

captain,
to

and
I

enable the

me

acquaint
which
so

the I

world have
a

Finisterra

hospitality
from

rienced expescholar

hope
with

be of

in

valiant

English
on

bark,

accomplished
of Corcuviou."

plenty

contrabando

board..

as

th**

Alcalde

186

CHAPTER
Oossing the Bay Lantern- Light and Fair Money
"
"

XXXI.

Coruria

"

"

Ferrol The

"

The
"

Dock-yard
Viveiro Girth
"
"

"

Where

are

we

now

"

Greek

Amhas"

sador Words

"

Ravine Leathern

The

Evening" Eyes of Lynx

Marsh
"

and Knavish

Quagmire
Guide.

Fair

The

From James make

course

Corcuvion

I returned

to

Saint
stout

and CoiTina,and now began to for directing preparation my

to

the

Asturias.

In

the

Gallegan ditties. Suddenly the sea first appeared to have become smooth, quite
and I my

Andalusian my horse, -which I considered unfit for the long and mountainous journey I "vras about
to

place I parted -with

pelled
who mariners, sang all the while

alongby the

oars

of five

or

six

sickness at

once

deserted

me.

undertake:

his

constitution

upon my feet and looked around. We in one of the strangest places were imaginable. A long and narrow sage pasrose

much debilitated from pendous having become overhung on either side by a stuhis Gallegan travels. barrier of black and threatening Owing to horses rocks. The line of the coast was at Coruna, I scarce being exceedingly had no difficulty in disposing here divided by a natural cleft, of him at yet so he originallystraight and regtdar that it seemed not a far higherpricethan A young and -wealthy the work of chance but design. The cost me. chant merof

Coruna, -who

-was

national

water

was

dark in

and This

mense sullen,and of im-

enamoured of his guardsman, became and tail. glossy skin and long mane For my o-wn I was to glad part, part -with Mm he
-was -was

depth.
about
to
a a

mile

is passage, which the i s entrance length,

whose farther
ex-

broad

at basin,

for
both

more

reasons

than

one

stands the town tremitj' entered in the

of Ferrol.
as was

vicious

and
me

savage, and

continually getting into scrapes in the stables of the posadas -where -we
or slept

Sadness came me upon tliis Grass place.

streets, and in the me is the face

soon

as

gi'owing misery and distress

on

baited.

An
"

grand and has shared in the ruin of the Spain, have Spanish na-vy : it is no respect for yourself,once splendid I beseech of that -who rid, beast, get longer throngedwith those thousand you, is capable of pro-ring the ruin of a kingthe who for sea dom." shipwrights pi'epared So I left him behind at Conxna, tremendous and three-deckers long -where I subsequently learned that he the greater part of which were frigates, became and died. Peace to glandered destroyedat Trafalgar. Only a fe-w his memory ! still and half starved workmen ill-paid From Coinina I crossed the bay to s ufficient to pair relingerabout, scarcely -whilst Antonio -with our remaining Ferrol, put any guarda costa which may horse followed by land, a rather in dismantled by the fire of some English toilsome and circuitous journey,although tar. smuggling schooner from Gibralis scarcely Half the distance by water of Ferrol the inhabitants three leagues. I was sea-sick their bread and beg amongst these,as xevy ; it is said, foimd not are during the passage, and lay almost imfrequently
once

pony said to me, any love or

-whose

he

old Castilian sant, stared peahad maltreated, Ferrol

naval

every side. arsenal of

if you Sir Cavalier,

senseless launch which wind We

at

the

bottom I had with

of the

small and The

retired naval maimed

are or

in which
was was

embarked,
the water

otherwise

of officers, many wounded, in

them who their

crowded make

and adverse,
no

people. or rough. pensions

were

left to

pine
or

salaries

: indigence havingbeen allowed

could

but sail,

im-

to

run

three

four

years in arrear.

CHAP.

XXXI.J
to the

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

187

owing
A

I saw of the times. a force, only a sixty-gun frigate exigencies and crowd lowed of importunate two brigslyingin this basin ; and beggars folof vessels and even to tliis inconsiderable number tempted atto the posada, me is the present war marine of Spainreto penetrate to the apartment duced.
was

to

"which I

conducted. I to
a woman

"

Who

are

you?"

said

who

flung
he

I waited
two
or

for the

arrival of Antonio

herself at my
countenance
"

and feet, evident

who marks
"

bore in her

of former

she replied, gentility. A widow, sir," in very good French ; I of a a widow brave officer, admiral of this port." our once The misery and degradation of modern fested manifrom Coruna, the Spainare nowhere so strikingly
as

days at Ferrol,and still ever, hownot : late one came evening, down the street, as I was looking perceivedhim advancing, leading formed only horse by the bridle. He inme that,at about three leagues
three heat of tlie weather the had so distressed the mal flies anithat it had fallen down in a kind which it had been
on lieved only re-

at Ferrol.

and of

Yet

even

admire.
state of

liere there is stillmuch to its Notwithstanding present

some

from fit,

it contains desolation,

good
for

streets, and
houses.
a

handsome abounds with The with alameda is planted

accoimt

was nearly and all are magnificent trees,and the poor with which alarmed me the of at first. I however Ferrolese, genuine spirit localism so prevalent in Spain,boast administered some remedies,and in a that their town him contains a better public few days deemed vered recosufficiently walk than Madrid, of whose prado, Avhen to proceed. We started from Ferrol, they compare the two, they speak in accordingly terms of unmitigated having first hired a pony for mysell^ contempt. At one end of this alameda stands the church, and a guidewho was to attend us as far the only one in Ferrol. To this church rol, as Rivadeo, tw^entyleaguesfrom Ferand on the confines of the Asturiasthe day after my I repaired arrival, which was but, ere we Sunday. I found it quite The day at firstwas fine,

thousand

elms,of which

almost

by copiousbleeding, which he had been compelled to halt road. the The horse a day upon in feeble a state evidently ; very had a strange rattling in its throat,

insufficient to contain the

number

of

reached

Novales,

distance

of three

the sky became worshippers who, chieflyfrom the leagues, overcast, and a the mist not crowded descended, interior, accompanied by a country, only rain. The their knees but,bare-headed, were drizzling country through upon before the door to a considerable distance which we passed was very picturesque. down the walk.

'

Parallel with the alameda extends the wall of the naval arsenal and dock. I spent several hours in walkingabout these places, it is necesto visitwhich
sarj' to written

in the afternoon we could small ing-town fishthe t he mist descrythrou.gh At about two of with Santa Marta
on

our

left,

its beautiful

bay.

Travelling

we alongthe summit of a line of hills, entered chestnut a forest, permission presently procure a from the of Ferrol. which captain-general appeared to be without limit : filled with rain still descended, the and keptup a I astonishment. me Tliey the royal have seen the broad of Eusceaseless pattering dock-yards among sia and England,but, for grandeur of green leaves. This is the commencement and costlinessof execution, of the autumnal design rains,"said the they for a moment cannot that you guide. Many is the wetting compare with these wonderful monuments of the bygone will get,my masters, before you reach naval pomp of Spain. I shall not atbeen as Have tempt Oviedo." ever you
" " "

to

describe

myself with which basin,

*' far as Oviedo ? I demanded. but content No," " that the oblong he replied,and once observing only to Rivadeo, conducting is surrounded with a gi-a- the place I am now to which

them,

"

nite mole, is capacious enough to permit first-ratesto lie convea hundred niently in ordinary : but instead of such

that we you, and I tell you frankly shall soon be in wildernesses where the

jway

is hard to

at night, find, especially

1
188

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.XXXI.

rain and "svaters. I wish I for back I like to Ferrol, fairly in is the worst this route, which not than but in more one Galicia, respects ; master's pony goes, there where my

and amidst
"were

down the crust of broa he flvmg reply, which he was peared. munching and disaplearned that I subsequently he went to the cottageof the alcalde, and demanded, in the Queen'sname, a

must

who I go too ; such is the life of us guide for the Greek ambassador, his way on to the Asguides." I shrugged my shoulders at was benighted I again turias. In about ten minutes which this intelligence, was by no tionary, but made no answer. saw him, attended by the local funcmeans cheering, made me At length, about nightfall, who, to my surprise, we emerged descended and presently a profound bow, and stood bare-headed I from the forest, shouted S His excellency," into a deepvalley at the foot of lofty in the rain. veiro. hills. Antonio, is in need of a guideto Viare ?" I demanded Where are we now People of our description to pay for any service,, crossed a rude bridge not compelled of the guide, as we which down which at the bottom of the valley, theymay require ; however, as his excellencyhas bowels of compasa rivulet swollen by the rain foamed j he is willing to givethree pesetas of Coisa In the valley and roared. sion, will ac- j to any competent person who he replied doiro," ; and itis my advice and much I him to Viveiro, as and do that we stay here for the night, company and he drink | eat those hills, can not venture through bread and wine as among hall ! His excellency his arrival." which lies the pathto Viveiro ; for as on
" " " "
'

"

"

said the alcalde ; " however,i be served," is will prove the destruction which as the way bewildered, long and the pathis bad,! " bretima amongst the | is much of us all." Is there a villageand there " it appears to me besides the i is right before that, hills, nigh?" Yes,the village do his bread and wine, can excellency us, and we shall be there in a moment." four than offer the which less We reached the village, no soon pesetas to
soon as we

adios ! I shall be get there,

'

stood amongst

tall trees at the entrance of a pass which led up amongst the hills. Antonio dismounted, and
some

who guide him

to

may

be

to willing

accompany
no

Viveiro; and

I know

one
.

better than my own son-in-law,Ju" I Senor anito." of the cabins, but | entered two or three alcalde," Content, " and the the We to me, came guide, replied; "produce saying, presently extra cannot maitre,without peseta shall be forthcombg in stay here,mon

being devoured by vermin ; we had due season." Soon appeared Juanito with a lantern better be amongst the hills than in this in hand. in his We set forward. there is neither fire nor instantly light place ; in these cabins,and the rain is streaming The two guidesbegan conversing " tonio, Ansaid Mon the roofs." ever howThe maitre," guide, Gallegan. through refused to proceed, " I could "this new scoundrel is asking find my scarcely amongst those the old one what he thinks we have got way
hills
"

in our he cried,surlily, Then, without poi-tmanteaus." b} daylight," " tols, Pishe and 'midst storm much less at night, shouted, awaiting my answer, barbarians ! wine and bretima." We procured as some Pistols, you i ye of the cottages. shall learn to your cost, if you do not | maize bread from one of these, cease Whilst we were speakingin that gibberishandi partaking in Castilian." The Gallegans Antonio said," ISIon maitre,the best converse and presently the firstguide do in our presentsituation were can silent, fellow of this village to is to hire some droppedbehind,whilst the other with ; " the lantern moved before. the hills to Viveiro. conduct us through Keep in |
we thing

and if the rear," said Antonio to the former,I There are no beds in this place, " i and at a distance : know in the litter in our damp lie down one thing, we licia. moreover, that I can see behind as well i shall catch a tertian of Gaclothes we Mon maitre,"said he to me, Our present guideis of no service as before. " don't I these fellows wUl find another therefore to must we suppose ;

do his

duty."

Without

for waiting

attempt to do

us

any harm,

more

espe-

CHAP.

XXXI.]
not

THE know each

BIBLE
otlier ;

IN
we

SPAIN.

109

as they do cially

might

it is -well,however, to separate them, which might for this is a time and place

courage, the ravine The

be sacrificed; but, horse I seized our own followed amidst had lasted the fellow

taking
by
the down

bridle,and
descent
ere
we

tempt any
murder The

one

to commit

robberyand
to

rocks and

brambles.

too." rain

stillcontinued
the

fall unand interruptedly, and

nearlyten minutes, accomplished entirely

the lantern in
went

pathwas rugged and dark and the night so was precipitous, the that we could only see indistinctly
hills which

it,the lightin
we

out,
ness. dark-

remained

nearlytotal

Once surrounded or us. Encouraged,however, by the guide, guideseemed to have lost his who assured us there was no danger, muttered reached the bottom of the to himself, we at length way : he stopped, ravine ; here we encountered a rill of raised his lantern on high,and would forwhich and then walk we were pelled comhesitatingly water, through slowly the knee. to wade In as as we iward. In this manner proceeded high

twice

our

for three the

*'

or

fom* far
we

hours,when
were

I asked Viveiro.

the midst

of the water

I looked up and

guidehow

from
"

caught
the

of the heavens glimpse

through
all the

where we are, exactly he replied, though I your worship," I do not know believe
we are

branches

of the trees, which

around clothed the

channel
more

sides of the shelving

in the

route.

We

can

embowered ravine,and completely

of the
stream

however, be less than two scarcely, " Then leagues from Viveiro."
shall not
of Galicia

mad
we

strange and
horror
no

arrive there before

"

Antonio, interrupted
means

for

mad

morning," league

and found

to a : place with gloom replete benightedtraveller ever

his way.

After

short pause

we

at least two

of Castile ;

commenced

the opposite bank, scaling

did not find so steep as the which we to doomed never and perhaps we are thither leads exertion arrive there,if the way other, and a few minutes' As he spoke, broughtus to the top. down this precipice." the guide seemed to descend into the Shortly afterwards the rain abated, bowels
"

of the earth.
are

you going?" the fellow Sefior," replied where

cast a dim light arising, "Stop," said I, and the moon To Viveiro, throughthe watery mists ; the way had
"

"

way
now

to

Viveiro, there
where
we

is

no

know

are."

less become other ; I two hours we The light an extensive many keels
we

this is the

and precipitous,

in about
we

descended
reached

to the shore of

creek, along which

a

the dark red had turned who of the features guide,

of the lantern shone upon round down "whose

to
as reply,

tillwe proceeded boats

spot where
their

and

barges lay with

the sand.

he
a

stood

some

yards
ravine beneath

upward

upon

Presently

the

side with

of

dingleor
trees,
a

overgrown

thick

beheld before us the walls of Viveiro, the moon was sheddingits upon which

frightfully steep sickly lustre. We entered by a lofty I dismoumed irom [ and seeminglyruinous archway, and path descended. bridle the the guide conducted at once to the the pony, and delivering us to the other guide,said, Here is your master's horse ; if you please Every person in Viveiro appearedto you may that abyss, but as for be buried in profound slumber ; not so lead him down myselfI wash my hands of the matter." much as a dog saluted us with liisbark. of reply, After much The fellow,without a word knockingwe were admitted and dilapidated into the saddle, and with a large into the posada, vaulted a housed ourhad We edifice. selves I the Ferico to impelled scarcely \:vamos, pony, the rain began the creature and horses when to the descent. "Come,
branches leafy
"

Senor,"said
is no
'

time

" there he with the lantern, will be to be lost, my light

to

fall with yet more attended with

violence much and

than

thunder

fore, beand

and extinguished, presently

worst

this is the I
about

bit in the whole

road." he
was

lightning.Antonio betook thought with fatigue,

to

I, exhausted

it very

probablethat
to some

beds in the

ourselves to flock rviinous chamber, into which

lead

ujs

den of cut-throats, where

rain

through many penetrated

190

THE

BIBLE
"

IN

SPAIN.
is
a

[chap.XXXI,
which, if wc path,
some

ate bread and cranny, whilst the guides the morning. drank wine till I was I arose When gladdenedby

here,however,

will doubtless lead us to follow it, human habitation. So we went the

the

of sight

fine

day.

Antonio

with forth-

breakfast of savoury stood in much which of we stewed fowl, after the need ten-league journeyof the which I the ways precedingday over
a prepared

along which, in about ten minutes, path, brought us to the door of a cabin,in mounted diswhich we saw lights. Antonio and opened the door : Is
"

there any
to Rivadeo
"

one

here who

can

conduct
"

us

have

attempted to

describe.

then

?" he demanded.
a

the town, which walked out to view than one consists of little more long

Senor," answered
is more
than five

voice,

deo Riva-

from leagues

here,
!"

street,on
At about

the

side of with
we

steep mountain
fruit-trees.
our

and,moreover,
"

there is a river to

cross

clad thickly
ten

forest and

Thei

continued

accompanied by our other having returned to Coisa doiro hours previously. some Our route throughoutthis day was within sightof the almost constantly
shores of the

first

journey, Antonio. "I am guide,the

which another is

vecino of the next

' village,

the way to Rivadeo," said on voice, " and I will lead you

fair words, if you will giveme thither, fkir what is better, and, money." A
man a now

Cantabrian sea, whose windings we followed. The country barren, and in many parts covered was ever, howwith huge stones : cultivated spots,
be seen, where vines were We met with but few human growing.
were

came

forth, holdingin
He

his hand
hour

stick. large

strode

dily sturan

before us, and led us out of the wood.

in less than

half

In another

to

habitations. We however for the sun was cheerfully,

on journeyed

half hour he brought us to a group of the sea ; he pointed cabins situated near and having received a of these, to one
bade peseta, The
us

once

more

farewell. the

shiningin full

gildingthe brightness, wild moors, and shining upon the waters of the distant sea, which layin unruffled
calmness. At

of people

cottage willingly
us

consented to receive much more it was

than

for the

: night

cleanlyand

modious com-

the wretched

huts of the

eveningfallwe
of the hills

were

in the
a

shore, with
on a

wood-covered

our

The Gallegau peasantiy in general. bourhood neighof room of floorconsisted a keeping ground range whilst above was and stable, a longloft, right. Our bordered in which
were some

guide led

us

towards

creek know

neat

by a marsh, but he soon declared that he did not

he
"

and stopped,
wnitner

flock

beds. of two

and comfortable observed sevei-al

The

1
let

masts

ana

sails of boats.

family
their
man, fisherbe
a

was

us. conducting

consisted
"

brothers, with
was

Mon be
our

maitre," said Antonio,

own

wives the

us

as you see, guides ; it is, this fellow, of no to depend upon use whose whole science consists in leading into quagmires." people

families ; one but the other,who

and

to appeared

that principal person, informed me service in he had resided for many years at INIadrid, and, havingamassed a small returned to his and protherefore turned aside, We ceeded sum, he had at length had purchased he native where able considerfor marsh a village, along the All the farmed. which he reached a narrow some land, distance, tillwe the Castilian used thick languagein wood, family path which led us into a and on their inquiiy wildered. bediscourse, common became where we soon completely ing On a sudden, after wanderheard about a considerable time,we the and the noise of water, presently clack of
we over
a

I learned
much I have which

that

the in

Galleganwas
name

not

spoken

that

neighbourhood.

wheel.
a

arrived at
a

the sound, Following low stone mill, built

we

brook

; here
no

stopped and
was

of this village, the estuary of the Foz, which rolls down from Mondonedo. crossed this estuary In the morning we the forgotten is situated on
a

shouted,but
"

answer

returned.
;

in

large boat,
noon

with
at

our

horses, and

The

place is deserted," said Antonio

about

arrived

Rivadeo.

192

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[CHAP.

XXXI.

all I

you

could
on

desire your

to

eat

and
us,

drink.
to

"

Strangers by
this

I"

roared

the

fellow,
with !

who rage;

intended,
you,

leaving
with
a

sent preof

was
"

time

foaming
carracho and

moreover, ;

propina

innocent
more

strangers,
of whole is Where
no man

they
too

two

dollars kind

but

since,
you
not

notwithstanding
endeavoured you
a

know
to

Spain
of
us.

Galicia

our

treatment,
us,

than
:

the

Oh,
but
a

Denho, wizard,
a

that
nu-

pillage
go,

will about

give
your

cuarto

servant

therefore,
All the
at

business."
their told
tisfaction sa-

veiro.
"

is

Perico

?"

audience
this been
a

expressed
sentence,
and

He forthwith

moimted
to

Perico,
another his and
no

and

proceeded
The had would
on

him and Two and

posada. dishonesty
person he
me

tale,
gone house his of
a

that that
or

he he three him

had
was

rightly
to

served,
Galicia.

however,
before

of

disgrace
crossed

him,

women

themselves,
not

him;
steps,
the

whereupon
and window

returned

asked

if whom

he

was

afraid

that would

the

seeing
of the and
out

looking
house,
he his

out

Denho,
take him

he At said
to

had

invoked,
last,
a

gave fist

away.
man

respectable"

savage
me,

shout,

shaking
of with the

at

looking
not

to

him

Are
to

you rob

galloped pursuing

town;

the
and

ashamed

have

attempted
?"

people
revilinss.

him

hootings

two

innocent

strausrers

1^3

CHAPTER

XXXll.

Martin of Rivaiieo"
The

The

Factious
"

Mare

"

Astnrians
"

"

Luarca The

"

The

Seven
"

Bellotas

"

Hermits"

Astiirian's Tale

Guests Stranjre

Big Servant

Batuschca.

"

What
a
a

may

your

business be ?" said where

for

I to

fellow thick, merry-foced short, and jerkin made who

canvass beingstrangersis what makes me wish taloons, panhis way into my to accompany versation you, for I like the conin the dusk of the of from whom I am evening. apartment, strangers, "' I am Martin of Rivadeo,your worship," to gain information both sure taining enter*" the man, and profitable. an I wish, morereplied alquilador over, told that you want of to convince you that we by profession ; I am guides

in

velveteen

swer
Galicia
sure

myselfno farther than Luarca, Your yourselves. you can please

into the Astua horse for your journey rias to-morrow, and of course a guide : if that be the case, I counsel you now, and mare." to hire myself
'"

are

not all

which thieves, if you you

as

am

you

Avill not

suppose

only
far as"

permitme
Luarca."
v,^as so

to accompany

am
"

become
so

tired of
so

much

that I

of

without which
"

a purchasing pony, guide at any

I reI plied guides," was thinking and proceeding more all. The last

much

struck

low's with the fel-

and good humour and frankness, of especially by the originality character displayed in almost every

we

had

was

an

infamous

racter." chasentence

which

he

that uttered,

dily rea-

engagedhim to guideus to Luarca ; So I have been told, he left me, worship, whereupon your promisingto and it was well for the bribon that I be ready with his mare at eight next when the affair morning. was not in Rivadeo But he Rivadeo to which is one of the principal ports seayou allude occurred. with the Perico before I of and is was tuated Galicia, gone pony admirablysifor commerce, came back, or I would have bled the on iirth, a deep fellow to a certainty with my knife. into which the river Mirando bouches. deHe is a disgrace which to the profession, It contains many magnificent is one of the most honourable and anand an cient extensive square or buildings, in the world. Perico himself w hich is I plaza, plantedwith trees.
must

have

been

ashamed is
a

of

pony, of many and well known capacities, roads. the He is upon only inferior to
one

Perico, though a

him, for gentleman,

observed and the of

several vessels in the harbour ; which is rather numerous, population, exhibited none of those marks which dejection I had the Ferrolese. among Martin of Rivadeo

my
"

mare." Are you I

am

misery and observed lately

On the
morrow

well

with acquainted

the

made his appearance at the appointed that It was lean a not, your worship is, hour with his mare. ; farther than Luarca, which is the no than haggardanimal,not much larger first day'sjourney. I do not wish to a pony however, ; it had good points, deceive you, therefore let me and was go with very clean in its hinder legs, the best \you no farther than that place ; though and Martin insisted that it was I for the whole animal of its kind in all Spain. " It is 'perhaps might serve for though I am jouniey, lieve unacquainted a factious mare," said he, " and I bewith the country, I have a tongue in Alavese. the Carlists When an
"

road to Oviedo ?" I demanded.

head, and nimble feet to run and my ask questions. I will,however, an-

came

here it fell lame, and I

behind,and

they left it it for a dollar. purchased

02

194 It is not shall soon lame see."

THE

BIBLE
as

IN with

SPAIN.

[chap.XXXII.

now,

however,

you

nothing
save

I have the greatestpart of them. the Asturians, to say against

had now We reached the firth whicii A divides Galicia from the Asturias. kind

that
at

they are

close and
at

penurious
ai-e

whilst and

service ; but
home

they
nor

not

barge yards from the

to

of

was

lying about
Towards

two

thieves, neither

abroad,

wits have our must we in their country, I have heard end of it to the travel from one and givingan enMai-tin led his mare, couraging we may fear of being without other without the slightest shout, the creature which is either robbed interthe hesitation or ill-treated, over sprang any " where we in told were the into the I not Galicia, case barge. veuiiig space
side of the quay,
over.

ing wait-

though
us

take

us

this

about

"

you
"

she

was a a

facciosa,"said Martin
would have

always in danger of having our

cut."

throats

none

but such

factious animal

taken We

leap."
in the

we through proceeded LeavingNa\'ias,

all embarked
over

barge and

crossed

place nearly a
now

which is in this the firth, mile broad, to Castro in the Asturias. I whilst horse. the

desolate country, tillv/e reached lies up the the pass of Baralla, which side of a huge wall of rocks, which at a
a

wild

'|

Pol, the first town

mounted
Antonio Martin with

the factious mare, followed own on my person

an

distance appear of a light green colour, bare of herbage or though perfectly of any description. plants
"

I
,

led the

eveiy road, and way We about with

were noon

way, whom

exchangingjests
he met
on

This
"

pass," said
a

Martin

of Riva-

deo,

the enlivening occasionally

extemporaneous song.
now we

in the

and Asturias,

reached Na-vias, a small

and very evil reputation, I should not like to travel it after sunIt is not infested by robbers, but set. the duendes of much worse, by things It is said friars of Saint Francis. two bears that in the
convents
were

fishing town, situate on a ria or firth : in the neighbourhood tains, are raggedmounstand in the
saw we a

old

time, long before the friars of two suppressed,

Francis left their that it chanced
as

called the Sierra de Buron, which shapeof a semicircle. We

the

order
to

of Saint

convent
were

beg;

they

at nightfall by this pass, they retin-ning lected, what vof for had about a a c ome they had colquarrel Basque provinces, cargo that he had done each insisting cider or sagadua, the beverage so dearly loved by the Basques. As we passed his dut\- better than the other; at last, Antonio from high words they fell to abuse, and the was narrow street, along do you What of from hailed with an Ola" from a species abuse to blows. did? of friars think these demons in which three They apparently men, shop He stopped took off' seated. their cloaks, and at the end of shoemakers, were with them, for some time to converse each they made a knot, in which they these and when he joinedus at the posada placed a large stone, and with who where we halted, I asked him theythrashed and belaboured each otJjer tilfboth fell dead. jMaster,I Icnow not they were : Mon maitre," said he, ce connoissance. des messieurs de ma which the worst rates, cusont friars, are plagues,
" " "

small vessel in the harbour, which the from learned was subsequently

very

but successful,

they were

I have times

been with

fellow sen^ant at different forehand, all three ; and I tell you beMay shall scarcelypass that we
'

or

sparrows

in througha \illage I shall not the find

an

this country where All acquaintance.

From For The

God the Lord birds three : all friars and that be; the sparrows
we

preserve
curates

us

from

evil

and

sparrows
corn

eat

at some Asturians, periodof their make a journey to Madrid, where, lives, obtain a situation, main if they can they re-

up

alt the

that
we

sow,

friars drink
ijrow,

do%wi have evil

all the -wine that all the fair dames

Whilst From

the curates tlieir not'. : these three Lord God." '

at

until
to

cient they have scrapedup suffito advantagein their own turn

; and
as

curses

preserve

us,

country

I have

served in all the

am

houses in Madrid, I jireat

acquainted

In

about

two

hours

from

this time

CHAP.

XXXIl.

I
Luarca, the
whose

THE

BIBLE of
a

IN

SPAIN.
"

195

we

reached is most

situation stands in
so

which

singular,It
sides

j ^

For
crone

Giyon
'*

and

Oviedo !

"

replied

the

deep hollow,
the
town

are

that it is impossible to

descry Giyon

cipitous preyou will have and Oviedo. all crack

"

is the weary stej) many before you reach to make You

:

must
are

firstof low bejust

until you stand just above it. of this hollow At the northern extremity is
a

the bellotas

you

them." What

does she mean by cracking entering Martin of I ?'* of the demanded bellotas a large by and comfortable posada,and by the Rivadeo. hear of for a Did your worship never advice of Martin, made inquiry in- the seven bellotas ? fresh guide and horse ; we our were replied guide. what tell I can are, fonned,however, that all the horses of they scarcely you them ; I believe the place seen never as I have were absent,and that if we have to hills which we w^aited for their return, we must tarry they are seven from called bellotas and I had a presentiment," for two days. some are cross, small harbour, the sea found cleft. We narrow
a
"
"

"

"

said Martin," when

tliat
we

we

entered
to

were

not

doomed
now

Luarca, part at

resemblance these have rather

to

acorns

which
not

it is fancied of

they bear.
acorns,
now an

I have
am

often heard

present. You must and me far as as

there is
a

hire my mare Giyon, from whence

to
am

and

sorry that I of seeing opportunity

tell you sorry that

am

conveyance the truth, I the

Oviedo.

To
means

them, though
hard

it is said that

they are
to

by

no

thingsfor horses

gest." di-

guidesare pleasedwith your company,

no now

absent,for I
as

The rise to

make I will wife she

doubt

are you go and write

with
a

mine.

in this part Asturian mountains altitude. a considerable They

at must

Rivadeo,
not

letter to my informing her that

to
see
me

consist for the most part of dark granite, covered here and there with a
thin very which each

expect

back

for

layer of
near

earth. the

They approach

several
room
"

days." He then went out the following stanza singing

of the
:
"

to

slope down
are

they sea, to which in broken between ridges,

handless man a letter did write, dictated it word for word : A dumb The person who read it had lost his sight. listened and heard." And he who deaf was

defiles, deep and precipitous

the tribute of the -with its rivulet, road traverses hills to the salt flood. The
these

defiles.

There

are

seven

Early the next from the hollow

hour's

morning we
of Luarca
us

emerged
; about
an

ridingbrought tuous deep and romantic valley of rocks, midmost, down which rolls an impeAt the upper end of it torrent. shaded by tallchestnut trees. Through wall of rock, black rushes a rapid rises a precipitous the midst of this valley of several hundred the in to which crossed boat. a as we soot, height stream, its as we was for trout There is not such a stream passed, yards; top, From veil of bretima. with said the ferryman a in all the Asturias," ; enveloped
to
" *'

Caneiro,a

in the lanof them, which are called, e:ua":e of the country. Las siete bellotas. terrible is the Of all tliese the most

look

down
the

into the waters

stones
over

and which

obit

sei-ve

large

flows ; now in the proper season, and those in fine weather, you cannot see
stones
cover

this gorge branch off,on small dingles some or glens, and with trees overgrown that the

either

side,
so

of them

cop^ewood,

for the multitudes them." the into wild

of fish which

eye is unable to penetrate the beyond a few yards. obscurity " of these Fine places would some
"

'

entered

said I dinglesprove for hermitages," valleybehind us, we and of Rivadeo. Iklartin to a Holy men drearycountry, life there roots lead on and moimtainous. The a happy day was might stony sorbed dull and gloomy,and all around looked and water, and years abpass many AvithAre we in the in heavenly sad and melancholy. contemplation out ever being disturbed by the noise way for Giyon and Oviedo ? demanded

Leaving

"

"

Martin

of

an

ancient female, who

a

stood

and
"

turmoil True,

of the world."

at the door of

cottage.

jNIaryour worship."replied

196

THE
"

BIBLE
account

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XXXII,
centuries old

tiu

and
are

there
cos

no

perhapson that verjin the hermitages

bellotas. Our for

three backs, apparently

at

barran-

of the

seven

hermits
and

Communicating with this was a wooden apartment gallery, open

the which air, led to
a

least.

had

little inclination

roots

to

small

ber, cham-

in which destined to sletp, I was to water, and had no kind of objection in their and which contained disturbed old-fashioned an be occasionally ditations. metester-bed curtains. with It was a just yet saw Vaya! I never
not hermitagethat was rich town or or village, resort

hard
was

by
not

some
a gular re-

one

of

those
are so

inns fond

which of

romance

writers
their
scene

the fond

for all the idle neighbourhood. Hermits of

peoplein
are

not

in introducing when the descriptions, especially of adventure lies in Spain. The

a

living in

dingles, amongst

host

was

talkative Asturian.

wolves could A he

The wind stillhowled, and the rain foxes ; for how in that case descended in torrents. of 1 sat before the their poultry? they dispose and fire in I
"

hermit

when of my acquaintance left, hundred died,a fortune of seven

to

was

drowsy state,from which aroused by the conversation presently

a

very

dollars
which At

the greatestpart of his niece,

turkeys." scrapedup by fattening

of the it is
now

host.

"

said he, Seiior,"

he

wretched

the top of this bellota we found a refreshed we venta, where then continued
we
our

years since I beheld in my house. I remember foreigners it was about this time of the year, and three

just such
on

that nightas this, arrived

came

two

men

ourselves,and
Late

ney. jourcleared The

horseback

here. without

What

was

the last of these

singular, they any guide. Two individuals more strange-looking its I never I "'/ind began now on to rise, bearing yet beheld with eye-sight. shall them. Tlie rain. We never one passed forget by wings a drizzling with much Soto Luino, and was as tall as a giant, course shaping our tawny country, moustache,like the coat of a badger, througha wild but picturesque He had a at foimd ourselves about we growing about his mouth. nightfall dull and which led and looked the foot of a steep hill, face, huge ruddy up for doubt when I amidst he no a a s naiTow a stupid, was, bridle-way, gi-ove him did stand, underhad he to before of lofty not we to seem trees. spoke Long and answered in a jabber, valreached the top it had become quite
in the afternoon difficult passes.

dark, and

the We

rain had stumbled

increased

siderably. con-

alongin the

Dios ! so wild and strange,that game with mouth I remained at him staring
and tall about

obscurity, leading our horses, which their knees, down on were occasionally of the path. owing to the slipperiness the ascent in At last we accomplished and forward, pushing briskly safet}^
we

eyes open.
nor

The

other

was

neither he he He hair had

was

his

had nor red-faced, mouth, and indeed his head.

very

little upon

loimd
at

ourselves

in about

half

an

diminutive, and looked like a very jorobado {hunchback) ; but, valgame

cats',so

hour

the entrance

situated juston village

of Muros, a large Dios ! such eyes, like wild and fiill of malice. He the declivity of sharp I
soon
some

spokeas

the farther side of the Mil. A blazingfire in the posada

good Spanish as myself do, and yet he was no never Spaniard. A Spaniard
looked like that
man.

di'ied

our

wet

garments, and

in

He

was

dressed

with much silver and degree recompensedus for the fatiguesin a zamarra, Andalusian and wore an which we had undergonein scrambling embroidery, found that he was rather the bellotas. A hat, and I soon sing-ular up and that the other of Muros. this vant. serwas same was master, posada place a It was a large rambling house, with position common on or Valgame Dios ! what an evil diskitchen, room, spacious had that Above stairs same floor. was a the ground foreign bado, joroand yet he had much mense gi*ace,much large dining apartment, with an imwith oak table, and furnished to me humour, and said occasionally that I was fit to such comical things, chairs with hieh leathern cumbrous
"

CHAP.

XXXII.] laughter. So
in the
room

THE
he
sat

BIBLE
down
to

IN

SPAIN.
one

197 that Seilor, thing, and Asturias,

same

die of
supper as well the will waited
same

tell you

I could IMuros shone watch

:

your and his sleep to-night, behind his chair.

sat

tell you chamber

above, and I may in here,that he slept

where

purchase with besides,

about the
cast.
room

all the

the brilliants which

worship
servant

the

sides of that wanted the the

no

Well,

I had the

great

was

I so curiosity,

table too, without should I ? I was and what

an

myself down askingleave.

in
own

at

So He

lamp, I trow, so splendourwhich tliey jorobado looked at his

said to me, took the I shall go

Why
house,

watch, and
to rest. went

then then

Asturian

king,and

my is fit company for a is often of better blood. Oh,

lamp, and

followed

If that. a strange supper was the servant made mistake the slightest in helping him, up would start the his chair, and jorobado, jump upon

to his room, through the gallery his servant. Well, big by and Senor, I cleared away the things,

then v,-aited below for the servant, for whom I had prepared a comfortable my
an

seizingthe big giant by

the

bed, close by for hair, patiently

was patience

own.

Senor,I

waited

both sides of his would cufl" him on afraid his teeth would face till I was have did fallen out.
not
seem

hour, till at last my exhausted, and I ascended apartment, and

came

to the

supper

passed
to

The
care

however, giant,
about it much.

till 1 through the gallery

the

door of the strange guest. Senor, what He was used to it, I suppose. Valgame do you think I saw at the door ? " Dios ! if he had been a Spaniard he How should I know ? " I replied. " "would not have submitted to it so paHis boots,perhaps." riding tiently. " But what me most No, Senor, I did not see his riding surprised
to
''

was, master moment

that

after would

his beating

servant

the

would

sit down, and

turbing to open it without disimpossible fast him, lay the big servant laughingwith him as if nothing had his immense legs happened, and the giant also would asleep, reaching nearly with his master, the whole laugh and converse length of the gallery. I for all the world as if he had not been crossed myself, for the as well I might, beaten. wind was it is even as howling now, You may well suppose, Senor,that and the rain was rushing down into I understood nothing of their discourse, the gallery in torrents ; yet there lay for it was all in that strange imchristian the big servant fast asleep, without any in which answered the giant without any pillow, not even tongue covering, when I spoketo him ; the sound of a log, stretched out before his master's me it is still ringingin my ears. It was door. Senor, I got littlerest that night, nothinglike other languages.Not like for I said to myself, I have evil wizards Bascuen,not like the languagein which in namesake folks who to not human. are house, worship speaks my your my and SignorAntonio here. Valgame Dios ! Once or twice 1 went peeped up I can it to notliing but the into the gallery, but there stilllay the compare sound a person makes when he rinces I crossed so big sei*vant fast asleep, his mouth with water. is one There returned bed and to myself, my word which I think I still remember, again." from lor it was Well," said I, and what occurred continually proceeding the giant's but his master next day ? never lips, used it. occurred next Nothing particular But the strangestpart of the story day : the jorobado came and said down is yet to be told. The supper was ended, comical tilings in good Spanish to me ; and the night rather advanced and the big servant was came down, but ; the rain still beat againstthe windows, whatever he said,and he did not say-

begin

the next and conversing

boots ; but, stretched on his head againstthe

was

the

floor with that it

door,so

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

even

as

it does

at

this moment.
out

denly Sud-

much, I understood
that with

his M^atch. jorobadopulled ! Dios watch ! I will such a Valgame

the

in not, for it was disastrous jabber. They stayed the day till after me throufvliout

198

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.

XXXII.

supper-time,
me a

and
ounce,

then and

the

jorobado mounting
as

gave their

rode

were

found

without the and

their

riders,

gold they
had
not
"sv

wandering
were

amongst

hills;
were

they
of
no

horses,
as

both
come,

departed
in the

strangely

common

ponies,
for embarked
was

they

dark

night,

value. that

As

the

brujos,
in
some

it

is

believed
sel ves-

know
"

hither." all ?
"

they
which

small in
one

Is

that

I is

demanded.
not

lying
coast."
was

concealed

of

"

No,
in

Senor,

it

all

for

was

the
:

rias

of

the What
"

right
the and veiy
a

supposing
next

them
an

evil

brujos arrived,

Mijself.
you the you

the

word

which from which

day
search I
was

express
was

continually
lips
think Host.
"

heard

proceeding
servant, and ? three times
not

great
and

made
tor

after

of

the you

big
can

them,
harboured after It
was

arrested This
wars

having

remember it is and
at
now

them. the

occurred had

just

Senor,
I heard

years I
times somecan

present
said

commenced.
and

since

it,
and

at

they
I don't had

were

spies
what in

saries emis-

remember I

it,
have it. the

others up in

of and the
some

know been

nation, parts
with of

started

my I have
:

sleep
it
was

that

they

all

repeating
now

Stay,
of my

Senor,

Asturias,
of the

holding
disaffected. and
were

conferences

at

point

tongue

it

They
never

escaped,
heard of

Patusca.

however,
viove,

Ml/self.
men were

"

Batuschca,
Russians.

you

mean

the

though

the

animals

which

they

200

THE
"

BIBLE
so a

IN

SPAIN.
Two I
or was

[chap.XXXIIl.
three
once

million."
said
"

wish heartily with

too,"

days after
more

this adventure, in my

the

little personage
no

sigh.
lier, Cava-

seated

Be

under these

Sir apprehension,

we

have

gentlemen are my just purchasedthese

where have

books

friends ; in

for you placed them taken the liberty of ing call- about to sit down when to my journal, the door in and bounded our was upon you, in order to return tlung you open thanks for the treasure you have brought Antonio. and sale,
us.

the

shop

room largescantily-furnished ; it was about ten, of a dark melancholy ing, mornrain was and the autumnal again I had justbreakfasted, and was falling.

hope
was

the

Old

furnish can you Testament also." I sorry

to

us

with that at in

"

Mon
"

less, breathmaitre," said he,quite do you think

"

replied,
"

who

has arrived ?"

that I

inform

him

The

I pretender,

suppose,"said I,
if so,
we
are

out of my present it was entirely power to comply with his wish, as I had no Old Testaments in my possession, but

some

trepidation ;
bah ! " said

soners. priit is

"

Bah,

Antonio,
one

"

Benedict Mol, the Swiss !" said I. What ! has he found the treasure ? But how did he come? How entertained by is he success, and the views the Society with respectto Spain,adddressed ?" ing, " that he hoped we Mon should pay parmaitre," said Antonio, " he ticular attention to the Asturias, which on came foot,if we may judge by his he assured me the best ground in ing was shoes,throughwhich his toes are stickthe Peninsula for our labour. After about and his in for he is most as dress, ; half an hour's conversation, he suddenly villanous apparel." " There be some must said,in the Englishlanguage," Good mystery in " said his where is he at precloak around I this," night,Sir,"wrapped sent ; ?" him, and walked out as he had come. " His companions, tonio Anwho had hitherto not Below, mon maitre," replied " uttered a word, all repeated " Good in But I he of came us. quest ; their cloaks, no sooner Sir," saw night, and, adjusting him, than I hurried away followed him. to let you know." In order to explain In a few minutes Benedict Mol found this strange scene,
" "

procuring some from England. He then asked speedily a great me questions concerning many biblical travels in Spain,and my my

did

not

despair of

not the

but pretender,

worth

twenty

of him

; it is the Swiss of Saint James."

I must

that in the morning I had state, of the him

his way

up and

visited the petty bookseller

Longoria,and
v/ith all I

place, had having arrangedpreliminaries

I sent in the rain.
" "

remarked,

stairs ; he was, as Antonio in most villanous apparel,

him,

Andalusian

nearly barefooted;his old hat was dripping with

eveninga packageof forty Testaments,

possessed,with
At the he time
was some

ments. advertiseassured
me

he

how

Och, lieber herr," said Benedict, I am to see rejoiced you again.

the

that, though
the
not
a

to willing

take under-

Oh,

sightof

your

countenance

most al-

for all the miseries I sale, there was, nevertheless, repays me with you of have I parted since whole a as prospect undergone success, had

since he had sold a at Saint James." elapsed believe that of account on description, Myself. I can scarcely the uncertainty What of the times, and the I reallysee you here at Oviedo. which motive induced have can poverty pervaded the land; I you to come therefore felt much This to such an dispirited. place from out-of-the-way such an immense distance. not me incident, however, admonished be cast down to when Lieber Benedict. herr, I will sit things look and tell you all that has befallen the hand of the Lord is down as gloomiest, then most Some few days after I saw me. busy: that men generally yoa learn to perceive, that whatever the canonigo to go to me last, pei-suaded may the captain-general is not their work to applyfor permisgood is accomplished sion book of any
" "

month

but His.

to

disinter the schatz, and

also to

CHAP.

XXXIII.]
assistance.
at
me

THE So I the

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

201

crave

who geueral, asked kindly, told

nie

to

come

captain- day,countryman," said they to me, and then Ave stood staring at each other for very and several questions, than a minute. Lieber himmel, more I never such robbers ; so finely saw again. So I continued
saw

first received

me

till he would him no see me so well anned, and mounted dressed, so visiting I could do what I little that on two and, might, hakkas, longer, bravely fiei-y of him. looked as if they could have taken wing The canon not obtain a glance became more now impatient, especiallyand flown up into the clouds ! So we few me a at each other,till at as he had given pesetasout of continued staring the charities of the called
me a

church. bribou and

He

last quently fre-

one

asked and

me

who I
was
"

I was,

whence
"

tor. imposcame, going. said I, I am a Swiss,I have morning I went to and said been that I to return Saint to James gious to him, proposed perform a relito lay the matter and to Madrid, in order am now to my vow, returning before the government, and requested own country."I said not a word about the treasure,for I was afraid that they a certificateto that he woiild give me would shot the effect that I had performed a pilhave at once, conceiving me grimage
where At

tlemen," Gen-

last,one

to

would the way, with some

sooner as

Saint James, which be of assistance to

it would enable
me

I imagined
me

that
"

carried you
"

part of it about
money
on

me.

upon
to

Have how
to

any

?"

beg
no see

Gentlemen," I
I should

manded. they dereplied, you

"

colour of authority. He

I travel

foot,with my
not

shoes
so

heard this request,than,without

torn

pieces ;

do

if 1

a word me a moment or allowing saying to put myselfon my defence,he sprang like a tiger,grasping my me upon throat so hard that 1 thought he would have strangled I am ever, howa Swiss, me.

had

money. however, I I had and

I will not deceive you, have a peseta and a few

out wlaat
"

and thereupon I took cuartos," offered it to them.

low," Fel-

said

they,

"

we

are

caballeros of

and I had
no

man

of Lucerne, and

when

and Galicia,

do not

take pesetas,much

I had myself a little, him off: I then in flinging dilficulty recovered him with my
me

threatened

staff and
to

went

less cuartos. Of what opinion are you ? " Are you for the queen ?" No, gentlemen," said I, " I am not for the queen ;

away.
with that

He the if I

followed
most

the

gate

but,at
you I know

the

same
am

time, allow
not

me

to

tell
;

horrid

curses, return

about the matter ; I am nothing would have me thrown at once into a Swiss, and fight neither for nor So I thief and a heretic. as a againstanybody unless I am prison paid." lieber herr, This made in quest of yourself, them laugh,and then they went but theytold me that you were about Saint James, and me departed questioned the troops there,and the captain-genefor Coruna ; I then set out for Coruna ral after you. not to disoblige them, 1 told ; and

presumed to

saying, he again,

that I

for the

king either

And Mijself.
"

what will

befell you tell you

:

on

the

them
one

road ?

Benedict.
as

"

about

most

between half-way I
was

Saint James

and

runa, his Co"

Then knew, and much more. looked the fiercestand who them, determined,took his trombone in it at me, said, hand, and pointing of

all I

of the schatz,I heard and lookingaround me

on

walkingalong, thinking Had a loud galloping,have

I
saw

two

men

would we you been a Spaniard, blown your head to shivers, for we should have thoughtyou a spy, but we
see

horseback the

coming
of
me.

across

the

field and

you

are

and foreigner, said ; take, go your way, tell nobody

believe
but

with said

swiftness

the

for making directly

Lieber

wind, Gott,
are

I,

these
so

are

these thieves,
moment

you this peseta and factious that you about then my

me

what

have

therefore,
ware beHe

anything
"

; and

they were.
a

They
and

came

us, for if you

do, carracho I
for
a

up

to

me

in I

bade

his trombone discharged

justover
moment

stand,so
off my hat

flungdown
and

took my staff, " saluted them. Good

to them.
"

head, so that thoughtmyself shot

awful

said I day,caballeros,"

Good

I and then with an ; shout, theyboth galloped away,

202

THE
over leaping with maBv possessed
"

BIBLE

IN
and

SPAIN.

[chap. XXXIII.

their horses
as

the

barrancos,
you

if

devils.

Myself. And
on
"

what

happened to

at runa, not know ; I was Colike one walking in a after yourself, lieber dream. in an empty Last nightI slept inquired herr, and they informed me that,only hogsty about two leaguesfrom here, the day before my and ere I left it,I fell down arrival,you had on my for Oviedo : and when I heard laiees and prayed to God that I might departed

your arrival at Coruna ? Benedict. When I arrived I

unable to help myself;it was a that I was devoured not mercy by the wolves. I then struck across the country for Oviedo : how I reached it I do

that, my
was now a

heart
at

died

within

me,

for I

the far end of

to

out withGalicia,

find you, lieber last hope.

herr, for you

what

were

my

friend I knew

helpme.
make

For

day

or

Myself. And
"

do you
can

propose

two

not what
to

determined

to do ; at last I for the frontier of

to do at

present ?
"

Benedict. herr ? be few

can

What
not

I say,
to do.

lieber
I will

France, passingthrough OAdedo

in the

I know

what

1 hoped to see you, and way, where ask counsel of you. So I begged and bettled among the Germans of Coruna.

guidedin everything by your

Myself
"

I shall remain

at

counsel. Oviedo a

I, however, got very little from

them,

only a few cuaits, less than the thieves had givenme the road from on Saint James, and with these I departedfor the Asturias by the way of INIondonedo.
Och, what
a

to

duringwhich time you dayslonger, this and endeavour at lodge posada, from the fatigue of your disastrous recover part, debefore I : perhaps journeys hit cate extrito we on some plan may
present difiiculties.
about It is
tAvo

and priests, One

is that, full of canons, town all of them more pfaffen,

you from your Oviedo contains inhabitants. situated between

fifteen thousand

picturesquely

Carlist than Carlos himself

and

mountains,Mor-

is very day I went to the bishop's lace cin and Naranco; the former pahim and duringthe greater I spoke to him, telling highand rugged, was a pilgrimfrom Saint James, and part of the year is covered Avith snow ; assistance. He told me, the sides of the latter are cultivated and requesting with vines. The however, that he could not relieve me, plante'd principal and as for my from the is of the cathedral, oraament a town being pilgrim Saint James, he was lofty, glad of it,and the tower of which is exceedingly it that would and is perhaps one of service to my be of the purest specihoped mens
soul. and that I
was

So

I left tlie wild

amongst

Mondonedo, and got mountains, begging

of Gothic in existence. is neat

architecture The and

at

present
thedral ca-

interior of the

at bettling

the door of every choza I passed; telling all I saw that from Saint James, and a pilgrim there.
me a

but appropriate,

one

Siiowingmy
had of been gave rians
me

passport in proof that I Lieber herr, no person

cuart,
nor even a

I observed but simpleand unadorned. the Conversion of Saint picture, Paul. One of the chapels is a cemetery,
rest to

in which I bore from This

the bones of eleven Gothic souls be peace. letter of

to
a

piece kings;
Astutold

whose
a

broa, and
that his in
not out

both

and Gallegans

recommendation
of Oviedo.
me

laughedat
name

Saint
was

James,
no

and
a

Coruna

merchant

longer
have

Spain.

I should maize

port passstarved
ear

ously, person very courteand generally devoted some tion por-

received

if I had
or

sometimes

plucked an
from

two

of the from

fields ; I likewise

gatheredgrapes
and this berries

the celebrated philosophic monk of the manner the bellotas, where I slaughtered order of Saint Benedict,whose writings a stray kid which I met, and devoured tended to remove the part of have so much the flesh raw, so so great was my hunger. popular fallacies and superstitions It made
two me,

the parras the brambles, and in I subsisted till I arrived at

of every day to showing me remarkable of Oviedo. things One morning he thus addressed
"

the

me

You

have

doubtless

heard

of

Feijoo,

however, very ill; and for

a

long cherished
in
one

in

Spain;

he is bm-ied he

daysI lay in

barranca

half dead

of

our

convents, where

passed

CHAP.

XXXIII.] portion
I will of show
our

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

203

considerable
me

his

life.

Come
liis trait. por-

great
to

comfort,
that which

in

my

horrible

journeys,
over

with

and Carlos

you

think

am

travelling
have

tlie

Tercero,

great
Madrid tlie

king,
to

ground
and
to

yourself
that
more.

trodden,
to

sent e-xecute

his

own

painter
It of is
now

from in

hope
you
once

am

proceeding
This

it.

possession
Valdez,

rejoin
me

hope
and

kept
out with-

of
an

friend
advocate."

mine,

Don

Ramon

alive it I

in should I and it is
a

the

bellotas,
never

have

reached
as

Thereupon
Don exhibited
was

he

led

me

to

the very

house

of

Oviedo.

will

quit
betiike hard

Spain
me

soon

as

Ixamon the

Valdez,

who of

politely
It in
a

possible, thougli
schatz

to

Lucerne,
leave the

portrait
in

Feijoo.
a

thing
the

to

circular and

shape,
was

about

foot

behind

me

in

land

of

the

Gal-

diameter,
little rim
I nance

surrounded

by
like
counte-

legans." Thereupon
few
"

brass of
was a

frame,
barber's

something
basin.
and the The

the

presented

him

with

dollars. A

large

massive,
eyes

but

fine,
and the collar

strange
to

man

is
me

this

Benedict,"

the

eyebrows

laiit,
nose

sliarp
On
;

said

Antonio

next

morning,
we

as,

penetrating,
head of The struck the
was
a

aquiline. skull-cap
was

accompanied
fro:n

by
"

guide,
a

sallied
man,

forth
mon

silken
or

the

Oviedo
is this he
"

;
same

strange
Benedict.

coat

vest
was

just

perceptible. good,
the very
art

maitre,
life will has

strange
he

painting
nie as

decidedly
one

and best

led,
it
is he
or

and

strange
on

death his
nance. counte-

being
modern
seen.

of

die,

written will he for

specimens
I had A

of

Spanish

which
not

That

leave leave he Last

Spain
it,
is

do be

hitherto

believe,
to

if

it will

day

or

two
"

after
to-morrow

this

I I

said
start

to

nedict Befrom

only
about for
a

return,
treasure.

bewitched he
sent

Mol,
hence for

this

night

Santander.
that you
to

It decide
return to

is

therefore
some

sorciere,
:

whom and

he

consulted
him but that that Slie
an

in he first
tioned cau-

high
course, to

time

upon Madrid
to to

my
or was

presence doomed all he him

mu^

she

told

whether the best

to t

possess
cross

it,
water.

make from

of

your

way

France,
own

of

and

thence

proceed

your

likewise supposes James. I the here

against
must

enemy,
canon

country."
"

whi-ch

he

be

the

Lieber follow for

herr,"
you I
am

said

Benedict,

"

of

Saint

have

often of the of

heard
Swiss it. I

will

to

Santander
unable hills I
to ;

by
make and find

short

people
for I would suft'ered
a

speak

of and

avidity
is what
a

journeys,
ones
am

long
when
some

money,
not

proof

amongst there,
of

these

undergo
these the last
treasures

Benedict
of

has his
to

peradventure passing
into

may

in all

journeys
in

means

France.

It

is

possess

Spain."

204

CHAPTER

XXXIV.

Departure from
General
"

Oviedo his
"

"

Villa Viciosa
"

and

Family

Woful

Young Man Tidings To-morrow

" "

The

of the
we

Inn
"

"

Antonio's Vincente
"

Tale"

The

Die

San

Santander

An

Harangue

Flinter the Irishman.

So
course

we

left Oviedo towards I hired

and

directed The

our man

direction of the town.

that several small

was

informed
were as

Sautander.
us as

Englishvessels

who whom

accompanied

and guide,
on

from I

lying in the

the

pony

which
to
me

rode, had been

my

recommended

by
He

friend the merchant

of Oviedo.

indolent fellow ; however, a lazy, proved, than one half he was and of these more three two or loitering generally of the house hundred yardsin our rear, and instead were decayed. The people tended inof enlivening that the nuts were the way with informed me song and and that they like our late guide, Martin of Rifor exportation, tale, dreamt either of partakingof ever vadeo, he scarcely opened his lips, never of offering them them themselves that or or save to tell us not to go so fast, I should burst his pony if I spurj-edto their guests. him thievish withal, and At an He was so. earlyhour on the following he had make the reached Colunga, a beautiful engaged to day we though that the is, to defray journey seco, villageon a risingground, thickly It is cewith chestnut trees. lebrated, trived charges of himself and beast,he conplanted at least in the Asturias,as throughoutto keep both at our the of Arguelles, When journeyingin Spain, being the birthplace expense. it is invariably the cheapest plan to father of the Spanishconstitution. and maintain the As we dismounted at the door of the his to guide agree horse or mule, for by so doingthe hire intended to refresh where we posada, is diminished and was at least one-third, ourselves, a person who leaning the he bills upon the road
are

Singular it we may seem, however, notwithstanding of the in it the Avellanas, were capital that with the utmost was difficulty I handful for my dessert, a procured scanty
harbour.

seldom

out of

an

increased ; whereas, in the other case,

shot the and yet goes pocketsthe difference, and the of the at free, expense the connivance have kind of of

upper and

window

uttered the forth

an

clamation exwere

We disappeared.
same

yet

at

the
came

door, when

vidual indicast

rmming
the neck

and

traveller,through

himself
was a

on

of Antonio.

He

who a innkeepers, with the guides. fellow-feeling Late Villa the in the afternoon small
we

good-looking man, rently appayoung about five-and-twenty, genteelly

a

reached

dressed,with
head. moment,
est

Montero looked with

Viciosa,a

distance of eight Oviedo : it stands beside

with the

diiiytown, at leagues from

a

Antonio and
ce

cap him at
an

on

his for
a

then
vous

sieur, Ah, Monhim tionately affec-

creek which of

hien

f shook

communicates

The Biscay. stranger by the hand. called La Capital de It is sometimes then motioned him to follow him, and of the ias Avellanas, or the Capital to the room they forthwith proceeded from the immense of above. Filberts, quantity is grown in the neighthis fruit which bourhood;Wondering what this could mean, I and the greatest part of sat down to my morning repast. Nearly and still Antonio did which to England. As we hour elapsed, is exported an drew nigh we overtook numerous his make not cars appearance ; throughthe in the laden with avellanas proceeding composed the boards,however, which

Bay

CHAP.

XXXIV.]
the the hear voices

THE

BIBLE
I sat, I and

IN

SPAIN.
waked i7/
me

205 in the

of ceiling

kitclien where

which

morning with
maitre, things

coukl
his

of himself

its call.
went
on

bien,mon

and thought that I acquaintance, the sound could occasionally distinguish

a

of broken
was

longpause.
was

sobs and groans ; at last there I became impatient,it was about

to
summon

in this way during the thi-ee that I continued in the family, years in and out time ; at the end of which determined should that the young and it was travel, attend him
as

tleman genposed provalet ;

and when

Antonio,
but
"

he made

his appearance, by the stranger. of

"

accompanied un-

that I should

What,
about ?

this I wished

in the Who said will

name

all that you

"

is Mon

singular,"
maitre,"
de
ma

I demanded,
is that

have ?
"

been monsieur

man

"

very his mother the bird kitchen.

no

ever, Howto do. very much at this time par malheur, I was much dissatisfied with madame about the that before I and I insisted quail, accompanied him for the slaughtered would

Antonio,
now

c'est iin

co.nnoissance. take

With
a

your

I permission
as we

mouthful, and

should be To this madame

consent

by

journeyalongI
know
"

will tell you all that I

means

; and

of him."

who gentleman, unreasonable

never
"

had

the young always taken my

even

said Antonio, as we rode out of Colunga," you are anxious

Monsieur,"
the
saw

said that I part on other occasions,

:

was

so

I left the

house

in

to

know you
mon

of history embrace have

the
me

and gentleman huff,

at

entered

whom

the inn.

Know,
and

maitre, that these Carlist

wars

EJl hien,jnon gentlemanwent upon continued from

met

it again. maitre,the young

his ancl travels,

Christine

been the

cause

of much

country, but
unfortunate found and
"

misery and misfortune in this a being so thoroughly

as

abroad several years ; and until we the time of his departure

at

him

Colunga, I
nor

have

not

set

that poor young man gentleeyes upon, I have heard of the inn,I do not believe is to be in

indeed

heard the A

of him. of his

enough, however,
monsieur of the

Spain, and his misfortunes from the spirit of party proceed entirely
faction which
so

family;
an

of

madame, and
officer of the before

father,of who brother, was

mean

for

some

time often

past
told

cavalry.

has been
Mon

prevalent.
as

troubles,I

short time before the

the father

maitre,

I have

death of
was

Ferdinand,monsieur

houses and you, I have lived in many served many masters, and it chanced that about ten years ago I served the who was then father of this gentleman,

of Coappointedcaptain-general ruiia. Now monsieur, though a good rather a proud man, and master, was and all that kind of fond of discipline, and of obedience. He was, moremily, thing, a a mere over, boy. It was very high fafriend to the populace, the father was for monsieur no to the a of large canaille, and he had a particular in the army, and a man sion avergeneral The to the nationals. dinand So, when Ferfkmily consisted of possessions. it the general, his lady, and two about sons was at died, whispered ; is the person you Coruna that the general the youngestof whom was no liberal, and that he was the other was several a better friend to Carlos than Eh felt 1 Christina. older. Pardieu! Men, it chanced myself years that in and there comfortable that was a grand fete, house, or festival, very had individual of the the and all the naat on tionals Coruna, family water, every for me. It is kind of complaisance were there,and the soldiers. And I know it befell, but there not how singular enough, that though I have

have

just seen,

been turned
was
never

out

of

so

tunied I became

out

many of

I families, that; and

was

an

hands

on

thoughI
the other the
cat.

left it thrice, it was

free will.

of my own dissatisfied with

tyinga
was,

emeute, and the nationals laid monsieur the general, and round his him neck, flung rope
from the

overboard and the

barge
was

in which
astern

he

servants, or with the The last time I left the

dog
was

or on

then

draggedhim
ivntil he
to

about

harbour then

drowned.

account out

of

quailwhich
of

was

hung
and

They

went
so

of the

window

madame,

and it,

his liouse, and pillaged ill-treated madame, who

206
at

THE time

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

fen A

p.

XXXIV,

for during happened to be enceinte, not of the Carlist opinion, that in a few hours she expired. his studies he had read books written a I tell you what, nion maitre, when longtime ago by countrymen of mine, and liberties, I heard of the misfortune of madame and all about republics that he of and the genei'al, would the much was so man, rights scarcely you inclined to the liberal than the shed tears, and believe it, but I actually more with I had that them Carlist was parted system; he therefore declined sorry in unkiudness on account of Don of that perthe offer Carlos, whereupon all nicious relations deserted his him, whilst the quail. from Eh bien, hunted him liberals one to mon nous maitre, place poursuivthat
" "

roiis

noire

histoire. The

eldest son,

as

another
some

like

I told you and a man heard

before,was a and when of resolution,

of his father vowed

officer,sold cavalry
he and he has
m a came

remained where

At last, he beast. a wild little property which still to him, and with the proceeds of Colunga, place and where with he several
manner,

of the death

to this remote
no

mother,he
So what
or

revenge. Poor fellow ! does he do but desert, with two of his trooD, spirits he Galicia, the frontier of

one

knew

him,

been
most

for residing

months,
no

three discontented

melancholy
than
a

and

going to
a

other

amusement

that which
or

he
sionally occa-

raised

small

faction,and
For
some

proclaimed
the

derives

from

book

two,

or

Don Carlos. considerable

time he did little

to
"

hunting a

leveret

with

his

burning
and

and

liberals,spaniel damage but I had their possesfor counsel, He asked me destroying sions, could and death several tionals nato to givehim, none only weep puttii"g
ever, Howwith him. I say your
see

that fell into his hands.

was

this did not last long ; his faction and he himself taken soon dispersed,

At last he said, ' Dear there is no remedy. is below,

tonio, AnYou
I

master

beg him,

and
"

hanged, and
Nous
we
sommes

his head

stuck

on

pole.

d^ja presque
at

au

boat.

and we pray, to stay till to-morrow, of the neighwill send for the maidens bourhood, and for a violin and a bagpipe, and for
a we

When
man

arrived
me

the

inn,the

took

there for but and him

some

you time he could do sob. His from

above, as

young saw, and

will dance And

and

moment.'

cast away then he said

care thing some-

nothing

weep told:" he

and

story is soon

in old Greek, which I understood, but which

scarcely
was

think

' his travels, equivalent to, Let us eat, drink, and die !' the first intelligence which awaited be merry, for to-morrow we " told him I his arrival in that Ell on bien, mon maitre, Spainwas,

returned

his father

was

drowned,
brother the

his

mother

dead,

and

his all he

moreover,

laanged,and, of his possessions

This he
was

familyconfiscated.
wherever considered discontented assailed

not

all

who that you were a serious gentleman, and that took any amusement, never in a hurry. Whereupon he you were and embraced me, and bade wept again,
me

went,

found
a

himself

farewell.

And

now,

mon

maitre, I
the young

in the

of light

factious and

have

by

frequently man person, and was the nationals with blows of We cudgels. He
some

told you the of the inn." dav rouie

at

of history

at Eibida slept
noon

sabres and

applied

to his
were

| next
Our

de Sella,and the arrived at Llanes. the coast and

an

and relations,
to

of these,wno advised of the Carlist persuasion, betake himself

to

lay between
of

him

Carlos,and
was a

the army of Don the Pretender himself,who and father,

range like huge ramparts at about a The league'sdistance from the sea.
rose

immense up

mountains,

which

which we bered remempassed was ground over tivated. well culand his offered the services of level, brother, seemingly tolerably of lack vines command in his army. There was no to give him a But, mon maitre, as I told you before, and trees, whilst at short intervals rose friend of his he
as
was a

pacific young
as a

gentleman,and
hated
was,

the
stone outer

of cortijos wall.

the

proprietors square
"

mild

lamb, and
He

the idea
moreover.

buildingssurrounded
Llanes is an

with

an

blood. t)fshedding

old town, foiv

208

THE
the

BIBLE
at

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.XXXIV.
They
found
me,

On

day

the table-d'hote

of my of

arrival the The

I dined

devastation around.

inn, principal
company
was

keptby
very and

Genoese.
"

miscellaneous

French, Germans,

however, at my post ; and had I been properlyseconded by those under my command, the two rebels would never
have returned
success.

all speaking in their Spaniards, whilst at the ends languages, respective each other, sat of the table, confronting
two

to their

master

to

boast

of their summoned

I stood

behind
'

my
and
are

intrenchments.
us

man

advanced
Who
'

Catalan

merchants,one

of whom

to surrender.

weighed nearlytwenty stone, grunting

across

the board

in their harsh dinner

dialect.
was cluded con-

you ?' I demanded. ' he replied and I ;

am

Cabrei-a,'
torted, re-

am

I Flinter,'

sabre ; ' retire the conversation or was entirely to your battalions, you will forthwith and the attention of all predie He the death.' was awed, and did engrossed sent I commanded. In directed to an individual who sat hour as an we
on was one a

Long, however, before

flourishing my

side of the thin

man

bulky Catalan.
of about the

He middle

surrendered. the

was

led

to prisoner

height,with a remarkably red face, and somethingin his eyes which, if not for the name of Flinter had long sounded resemblance ranks. bore a striking the I was Carlist a squint, to fiimg amongst dressed in a blue militaryinto a loathsome where it. He was I remained dungeon,
frock,and
seemed
to

Basque provinces ; and the Carlists in the rejoiced capture they had made,

take

nmch

more

twenty months.
I
was

was on

in haranguing than pleasure

in the tare

naked

; but
"

I did

not

cold ; that

which He set before Mm. was was too despond my spirit spoke account weakness. indomitable for such good Spanisli, perfectly My yet his voice accent. misfortunes. keeper at last pitied betrayed somethingof a foreign my it grieved him For a long time he descanted with immense He said that to see so and in inglorious all its valiant a man on war finement.' conperish volubility the conlaid a plan to escape We duct circumstances, criticising freely both Carlist and of the generals, and were provided, together ; disguises made in the present struggle, till we the attempt. We Christinos, impassed
'

at

last lie exclaimed,

men

"

Had
me

thousand conclusion
"

allowed

arrived at the Carlist I but twenty observed tillwe there the lines above Bilbao we were : by vernment, gowar

I would Pardon

bring the

to a

stopped. My

in six months."
me.
"

presence did not desert me.

of I

mind,
was

ever, how-

disguised

a Sir," said a Spaniard as a carman, as Catalan, and the who the coolness of deceived my the sat at answers table, curiosity my which We the favour induces me to request interrogators. were permittedto

of your " I

name." disting-uished vidual the indiam Flinter," replied in the military frock, a name
"

pass, walls lion

and of had

soon

were

safe within There

was an

the mination illu-

Bilbao. that burst

was a

nightin
once

which
woman,

is in the mouth
and child in

of every

man,

the town, for the his toils, Flinter had

more

Spain. 1 am | escaped, and Flinter the Irishman, justescaped from to reanimate and the claws of just arrived the Basque provinces dinand, to Madrid, Don Carlos. On the decease of FerI declared it the and do

returned
I have my
to

droopingcause.
Santander,on
I intend
a

at

where

way ask of

duty of
have been Two
to

for Isabella, ing esteemcavalier good every

the government

command,
a

with twenty heart and

were a

thousand men."
Poor
more

Irishman
so.

in the

Spanishservice
of my to tell you

to

Flinter !

braver

You and have

all heard

ploits, ex-

gasconadingmouth

permit me
yet

would
not

more

been jealousy
means.

at work

united in the same they never h ad to Madrid, and proceeded glorious and cramped influence of the British ambassador,
I
was

surely body. He through the

the

my

years

ago
to

spatched dewho and which

was

his of

friend,he
a

obtained

Estremadura,

organise spread

command in the

small

with division,

the militias. The bands of Gomez and Cabrera entered the province,

he contrived to

feat, and desurprise " of Toledo, neighbourhood

CHAP.

XXXIV.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

209

body Orejita,

of

the whose
own.

Carlists,
numbers In reward

commanded
more

by
than
bled treploit ex-

done from

all

in

tlieir

power up his

to

prevent
successes,

him

following
him
the

by
and

his he

for

this
ment, governwas

denying

slightest
The

supplies
of his

was

persecuted
at

by
time,

the

reinforcements.
the thus

fruits

victory hopes
seized

which,
moderado
relentless
or

that

wrested
a

from
morbid

him,

juste

milieu,
"

with

the

most

blighted,
upon the

melancholy
he

animosity supporting
and

the with

prime
all

ter, minishis fluence in-

Irishman;
and,
in less
when

resigned
ten
saw

his

Ofalia,
numerous

command,
from
the

than I

months him and

at

ridiculous

sations accu-

period
afforded enemies
even

of

plunder
too
canons

and
successful of

robbery

brought by
was

Santander,

his
a

dastardly
triumph cutting

against
the

the

general
He

malignant
satisfied

which
his
own

Carlist

Toledo.
a

them,
a

by

likewise

charged
in of in

with

dereliction
after he
manner,

of the

throat

with

razor.

duty,
battle
won

having Valdepenas,
the force
most to

permitted,
which

Ardent

spirits

of

foreign

climes,
in

who
the

likewise
the of ment, governthe

hope
service and

to

distinguish
of

yourselves
and
to
earn

gallant
take

Spain,

honours fate of

Carlist mines
of

possession although
the

rewards,
and of

remember

the
as

lumbus, Coas

Almaden,
were

another !

brave

and

who

bent

on

his

ruin,

had

ardent
"

Flinter

210

CHAPTER

XXXV.

Departure
I
to
HAD

from

Santander

"

The

Night Alarm^

"

The

Black Pass.

ordered two
sent to

himdred

Testaments
Madrid
:

Istrange

to

say,

escapedwithout

hair

be

Santander

from

fomid, howevei',to

that

they
that

had

not

my great sorrow, arrived, and i supposed

I of our heads being singed. Robberies, [murders, and all kinds of atrocities perpetrated before, behind,and on I were
both sides of us, but not
so

they had
by
the

either

been

seized that my

much

as

dog barked at us, though in one instance letter had miscarried. I then thought a plan had been laid to intercept us. of applyingto England for a supply, About four leagues from Santander, but I abandoned the idea for two reawhilst we horses at a sons. were our baiting In the first place, I should have off I saw a fellow run village hostelry, after having held a whispering to remain at least a sation converidly loitering, with a boy who was month, before I could receive them, at dealingout article I of a placewhere to us. was sively excesinstantly inquired barley every dear ; and, secondly, said I was the what the had latter man to very swer. unwell, and unable to procure medical him, but only obtained an evasive anadvice at Santander. Ever since I left It appearedafterwards that the
on or Carlists,

the way

Coruna,

I had

been

afflicted with

rible teran
lady. ma-

conversation
or

was

about

ourselves. there
was

Two
an

I
i

and dysentery, the ophthalmia,

with latterly

three

leaguesfarther

where had proposed we village indeed had 1 therefore determined and our on turning staying, reexpressed To effect this, intention of doing so ; but on to Madrid. arriving that the sun stillfar no was however, seemed there, finding very easy task. Parties of the army of Don Carlos, from its bourne, I determined to proceed had been ing which, in a partial farther, expectingto meet with a restdegree, routed in Castile, were hoveringabout place at the distance of a league ; the country through which T should though I was mistaken, as we found have to pass, more reached Montaneda, nine in that until we none especially The Mountains," so that leaguesand a half from Santander, part called
"

result of the other

inn and

all communication

had the

ceased

between districts.

where
we

was

stationed

small

ment detachof

Santander
usual the small in

and the

southern
to

of soldiers.
were

At the dead

night,
a

I Nevertheless,

determined

trust

as

Almighty, and to risk a therefore, danger. I purchased,

horse,and
sallied forth with tonio. An-

cry A messenger

aroused from our that the factious were

had arrived of the where village
we

sleepby
not

far off. the alcalde

from

had

viously pre-

intended Before what

who staying,
were

stated

however, departing,
with the

I entered
as

that for

party of Carlists had

that and place,
at

prised just sur-

into conference
to

booksellers

my them

they should do in the event of of sending an finding opportunity

a

an

English spy,
to

whom iim.

searching they supposed

The officer

be

the

stock

of Testaments

from

drid Mato

aud, havingarrangedmatters

this,not

I committed satisfaction, my I will not dwell Providence. this

myselfto long on
miles.

journey of
were

three

hundred

soldiers, commanding upon hearing situation a deeming his own off his men, safe one, instantly drew back tioned on a falling stronger party stain a fortified village at hand. near
the

We

in the midst

of the fire, we yet, As for ourselves,

saddled

our

horses

CEAP.

XXXV.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

211

and

continued
the

our

way
succeeded

in

the in

dark.
hending apprehave
on

Had

Carlists
me,

should my

instantly body
cast

been roclis

shot,
to
"

and
the
not

pendicularl
the

right

and

left, entirely
so

tercepting inthat

scanty
the

twilight,
or

the

darkness

of

grave,

rather

the

the

blackness

of

the

valley

of

the

shadow

feed
was

vultures
so

and

wolves. said tonio, An-

of knew
to

death,
not

reigned
where of
we

around

us,

and trusted moved

we

But

it

written,"
of The his

went,

but who the heard

who,
was a

like

many

men, country-

the with

instinct
their sound of pass. feel
not
a a

the

horses,
close
to
we

fatalist.

next

night
we

on

heads

ground.
was

we

had

another
near

singular
the
"

escape:
of de pass
a

The the down

only plash
the
to

which

had

arrived
pass

entrance

rible horputhe

stream,
I

which

tumbled every
ment mo-

called las

El
or

puerto
the wound

la of

expected
at

ente

de

tablas,"

knife written."

my We
a

throat,
threaded

but

bridge
a

of

planks,

which

tlirough
on

"

it

was

so

black

and
side where The hour.

frightful
of
we

mountain,
was

the of the

the and

pass

without
three time within which
we

meeting
quarters
entered the
was

human
of
an

being,
hour found the
town

farther

which
meant

the

town

within the

Onas,

to
set

tarry
a

for

after
ourselves of and from
was

it,
of

we

night.
of face
an

sun

had

about
a

quarter
with
out

posada
filled

Suddenly
with
"

man,

his of

Onas,
armed the
near

with
an

troops
attack

covered
pass. the in
name

blood, back.
of

rushed

peasants

expecting
Carlist army,

the
"

Turn

Sir,"
;

he
are

said,
derers mur-

grand
at
we

which

in

God
pass;

there

hand.
reached

that of I their have my

they
and

have all I

just
sess, poswe

Well,
reached the
at

Burgos
in

in

safet}'
we

robbed and

me

mule,

Valladolid Guadarama

safety; safety
in very
;

hardly
I
no

escaped scarcely
answer,
so

with
know and and

passed
were

in housed
been
so

and

life

from but

hands."
him I
not
was

length
said
we
"

safely
had It be
was

Madrid.

why,

I
;

made indeed I cared

People
Antonio of I say,

lucky
;"
for but his

proceeded
unAvell
me.

weary became
rose

said,

written

that We

what
rocks

Glory
vouchsafed

to to

the
us.

Lord

entered

the

per-

mercies

212

CHAPTER

XXXVl.

at Madrid state of .iffairs

"

The

New
"

Sword-blades Servant.

"

Houses

of Toledo

The

Tiie Bookseller of Toledo" Ministry" Pope of Rome" Forlorn Another Gypsy Proceedings at Madrid
" "

During of Spain. How far the result corresponded journey in the northern my with my will be provincesof Spain,which occupieda expectations considerable portion in the sequel. of the year 1837, seen I had accomplished but a slight During my absence in the noith,a portion of what I proposedto myselfto efiect total change of ministers had occurred. in the outset. the reThe liberal party had been ousted from are sults Insignificant of man's labours compared with the cabinet, and in their place had entered the swelling the ideas of his presumption attached indi-viduals to mo; however, had been effected derado or court party : unfortunately, something, cluded. sisted however, for my prospects, they conby the journey which I had justconThe
was
now

New

Testament

of Christ the had

of persons my former

with

whom

I had with and

no

enjoyinga quietsale in of the north, and I towns principal secured the friendly interest and
of the booksellers

whatever,and acquaintance
friends,Galiano
littleor
no
now

whom
Istu-

operation co-

had ritz,

influence.

These
on

of those

gentlemen were

laid regularly

and their political of him the most considerable the shelf, career parts,particularly peared apof them all, old Key of Comto be terminated for ever. I had, moreover, From the present ministryI could of disposed postella. considerable number little of Testaments but a expect ; they consisted of men with my own duals, indivithe greater part of whom had been hands, to private of the deof the lower ceased classes, either courtiers or employe's entirely contrabanwere namely,muleteers,carmen, King Ferdinand, who distas, "c., so that upon the whole I friends to absolutism, and by no means had abundant inclined to do or to favour anything and for gi-atitude cause calculated to give offence to the court thanksgiving. I did not find our of Rome, which they were affairs in a very anxious to that few it state at conciliate, Madrid, hoping copies eventually prosperous the young having been sold in the booksellers' might be induced to recognise pected exshops; yet what could be rationally queen, not as the constitutional but as the absolute Queen Isabella the Secondduringthese latter times ? Don with a largeai-my, had been at Such was the party which continued Carlos, the gates; plunder and massacre in power had throughoutthe remainder of been expected too were my sojournin Spain,and which ; so that people cuted persemuch in forming plans to seand malice less from rancour me cure occupied their lives and property to give than from policy. It was not vmtil the much attention to readingof any description. conclusion of the war of the succession that it lost the ascendancy, when it The sank to the ground with its patroness tired rehowever, had now enemy, in Alava and the queen-mother, before the dictator to his strongholds Guipuscoa. I hoped that brighter days shipof Espartero. The first step which I took after my were dawning,and that the work, vmder towards to INIadrid, return would, with circulating superintendence, my own It God's blessing, a very bold one. was prosper in the capital the Scriptures,

CHAP.

XXXVI.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

213

neither more less than the establishmentinstantly addressed myself to the pi'in-" nor of a shop for the sale of Testaments. bookseller of the place,whom cipal This shop v/as situated in the from the circumstance of his living in and with Calle del Principe, town a a so respectable abounding canons, priests,
"was

and ex-friars, as street in the neighbourto Toledo, I expected \rell-frequented hood of the Square of Cervantes. I find a Carlist, I or a servile at least. furnished it handsomely with glass was mistaken in my life: never more and chandeliers, and procured the shop, which cases an on was entering very of Pepe large and commodious, I beheld a stout acute Gallegan of the name the business, athletic man, dressed in a kind of caCalzado, to superintend valry who gave me uniform, with a helmet on his weekly a faithful account of the copies sold. sabre in his head, and an immense How times alter," the bookseller himself, said I, hand : this was strangely the second day subsequent to the openwho, I soon found, was an officerin the ing of my establishment, I stood on national cavalry. Upon learning who as the opposite side of the street,leaning I was, he sliook me heartily by the the wall with folded arms, veying suragainst hand, and said that nothingwould give of him greaterpleasure than taking shop, on the windows my charge which were painted in large yellow of the books,which he would endeavour characters, Uespacho de la Socicdad to circulate to the utmost of his ability. Bihlica y Estrangera Will not your doing so bringyOu how strangely ; times alter;here have I been during: into odium with the clergy ?" the last eight months I am who cares ? Ca !" said he ; runningabout old before father me. Testaments, rich,and so was PopishSpain,distributing my them ; they cannot I do not depend on as agent of what the Papistscall an and have neither been heretical society, for hate me than they do already, more burnt ; and here am stoned nor I now I make no secret of my opinions. I in the capital, have justreturned from an expedition," doing that which one would think were all said he; "my brother nationals and enough to cause the dead inquisitors and officialsburied myself have, for the last three days, within the circuit of the walls to rise been occupied in huntingdown the factious from their graves and cry abomination ; and thieves of the neighbourhood ; and yet no one interfereswith me. Pope we have killed three and brought in of Eome ! look to thy! Pope of Rome Who for the cares self. several prisoners. That shop may I am Don be closed ; but oh ! cowardlypriests ? a liberal, what a sign of the times, that it has been Jorge,and a friend of your countiyFlinter. to exist for one day. It appears permitted man, Many is the Carlist and robber-friar whom to me, Father, that the days of guerilla-curate my in Spain: that I am I have assisted him to catch. joiced reyour sway are numbered much been apto hear that he has just longer pointed you will not be permitted of Toledo ; there to plunder her, to scoff at her, and to captain-general her with scorpions, in byrives, as gone will be fine doings here when he arscourge will make the Don Jorge. We periods. See I not the hand on the wall ? See I not in yonder letters a clergyshake between us, I assure you." of Toledo ? Look was iSIene, Mene, Tekel,Upharsin' formerlythe capital Its Batuschca." to thyself, at present is population Spain. in And thousand I remained for two hours, leanfifteen ing souls,though, barely ing durand also of the the time the the Romans, wall, staringat against the middle ages, it is said to have shop.
" " " " "
'

short time the

after the
at

establishment I
once more

of the

despaclu. Madrid,

mounted

and is built upon a rode of INIadrid, Antonio, steep flows the round which of the hill, circulating Scriptures, rocky purpose north. It the but all sides beforehand muleteer a on a sending Tagus, liy

saddle,and, attended by to Toledo, for the over

and three amounted two to between It is situated about hundred thousand. twelve leagues(forty miles) westward

cargo of

one

hundred

Testaments.

stillpossesses a great many

remarkable

214

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[CHAP.

XXXVI,

it has ing enough to see strangers comhere to purchase old swords, the decay. Its catheof Spain, greater part of which are mere di-alis the most magnificent rubbish, and is the see of the primate. In the and never made at Toledo, yet for such of this cathedral is the famous tower whilst they theywill givea largeprice, bell of Toledo, the largest in the world would grudget^vo dollars for this jewel, with the exception of the monster which was bell made but yesterday upon ;" thereof Moscow, which I have also seen. It puttinginto my hand a middlesaid weighs 1543 arrobes,or 37,032 poimds. sized rapier. Your worship,"' It has, however, a disagreeable to have a sound, they, seems strong arm, the stone wall. owing to a cleft in its side. Toledo prove its temper against could once boast the finest pictures thrust boldly in and fear not." stolen or were stroyed I hace a strong arm, and dashed the deSpain, but many Avith my utmost insular point the force against by the French duringthe Penhave lately solid granite numbed to arm was : my war, and still more been removed the shoulder tke violence of the from by order of the government. and continued so for nearly remarkable concussion, Perhaps the most remains ; I allude to that which but the sword still a week, one appearednot to

that edifices, notwithstanding

long since

fallen into

diculo
" "
"

represents the burial

of the

Count

of

be at all any
"

blunted,or

to have

sufl'ered in

Orgaz,
the

the

of masterpiece
most

Domenico,

respect.

A better sword than that," said an extraordinary genius, whose ancient Old of native of tile, Casrit some workman, a productions possess meof a very high order. The picture transfixed Moor out never der yonis in the littleparish in question church on the sagra." of San Tome, at the bottom of the aisle, During my stay at Toledo, I lodged

Greek, a

"

on

the left side of the altar.

Could

it

at the

Posada

de los

which Caballeros,

I should say it would the inn of the gentlemen, which be purchased, signifies in some well it certainly cheap at five thousand pounds. name, respects, palaces Amongst the many remarkable things deserved, for there are many which meet the eye of the curious observerfar less magnificent than this inn of Toledo. it must of at Toledo, is the manufactoi-y not By magnificence where be allude the I that are to h owever, swords, arms, supposed, wrought

be

intended for spears, and other weapons the army, with the exceptionof firearms,
which In old sword-blades

costliness of which

or furnitare,

mostlycome
is well

from

abroad. the

times,as

known,

of Toledo held in were a nd transmitted were great estimation, merchandise dom, as throughout ChristenThe

present manufactoiy, or

it is called,is a handsome as fabrica, modern situated without the edifice, wall of the
to
on city,
a

culinary luxury as empty were department.The rooms those of Spanishinns generally as are, and the fare,though good in its kind, dom was plainand homely ; but 1 have seledifice. It a more seen imposing of immense of sevewas size, ral consisting and was built something in stories, the Moorish taste,with a quadrangular
in the centre, beneath which
was a
an

any the pei-vaded

kind

of

plain contiguous court

it communicates It is said that of the

the

river,with
a

which sand

immense Toledo

as or tank,serving algibe

by
the water
are

smaU and

canal. the

reservoir for rain-water.

in this

All the houses

are suppliedwith tanks of into which the waters description, I asked of the swords. of the in the rainyseason fiow from the roofs some workmen is used No other water whether, at the preprincipal throughpipes. sent for drinking that of the pons day, they could manufacture weaTagus, not ; of equal value to those of former considered is only salubrious, being the and whether had used been for of secret cleanliness, days, being purposes lost. streets on conveyedup the steep narrow of donkeys,in large stone jars. The city, Ca ! said they, the swords Toledo those never on a were so good as rocky mountain, has no standing which we are dailymaking. It is ri- wells. As for the rain-water, it deposits

essential for the proper

Tagus tempering

"

"

"

216

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[CHAP.

XXXVI.

in

London the

or

Paris
sale of

would the

probably
entire
a

have of

"

Mon you

maitre,
for
a

it

is

necessary Ever

that

I
we

ensured the In New

edition few
was

leave have become the Donna

time.
our

since

Testament

within the
;

days.
not blishment esta-

returned unsettled

from

journeys,
dissatisfied
and

I have with with

Madrid,
so

however,

result after

and

quite

flattering
had been

for open

the
an

house,

the

furniture,
I
as
* *

entire

Marequita. myself
of four your of
*

have in the

therefore house I less

me.
am

month,
amounted
These
to
cause
a

the
to

copies
one

disposed

of

barely

engaged
the

cook
*

of
to

hundred. of mine
:

Count

*, where
month

proceedings
great
sensation
were

did

not

fail and

receive what fond

worse.

dollars

per

than I
am

the

priests
with

worship change,
Adieu,

gives
it

their and

partisans fury, they

teeming
for
some

malice ever, how-

though
mon

be may

for

the you

which,

time,
to

maitre,
you deserve
to

thought
;

proper

exhibit

be you

as

well

served

as

should
any for
at
me

only
that and there I

in
was

words

it

being by
the

their

opinion

chance,
need

however,
de
mes

have send

favoured the
no

ambassador
;

pressing
but
cious, atro-

soins,
and
I

by
was

British

government
however be
were

without

hesitation,
tny
with
was
new

will

once

attempt,
not

give
still

master

warning,
come

if

am

that their

might
;

expected
it

from and of I I
was

him,
I of

and

to

you."
a

malignity
for
to me,

and
most

right

Thus the for the

deprived
Antonio.

for I
a

time

of

seemly
worms,

the

insignificant
a

services
a

continued
at

make like

such Paul wild

at

comparison, Ephesus,

few of

days
which
or

without
time I
a

domestic,
a

might fighting
On
servant

say, with the

end

hired native

certain of the who

beasts. of the year

Cantabrian

Basque,
in

last

day

1837,
me

my
:
"

village
was

of

Hernani,

Guipuscoa,
to
me.

Antonio

thus

addressed

strongly

I'ecommended

217

CHAPTER
Euscarra"

XXXVIl.
Tartar Dialects
"

Basque

not

Irish
"

"

Sanscrit

and
"

"

Vowel
Women.

Language Popular
"

Poetry
I
NOW

The

Basques

Their

Persons

Basque

Basques are a very and know nothingof ignorantpeople, which I passed in Spain. The of the despaphilosophy language. Very little cho still continued need be attached with what therefore, a someimportance, open, ject. of theirs such a subs ale. this to on increasing Having at any opinion time little of particular A few with moment amongst them, however, which who affect some to occupy myself, I committed to degree of learning,
entered

perhaps the

the upon eventful most

1838, year of all those

derived ; but

the

the time

press

past had been

St. Luke

contend lees that it is neither more nor some and dialect of than the of a Phenician, course preparation. of These the Gospel of that the Basques are the descendants were in the SpanishGypsy and the the Phenician at established a colony,
two

works,

which

for

in the

foot of the Pyrenees at a very remote Euscarra languages. With respectto the Gypsy Gospel,I period. Of this theory, jecture, or rather conhave little it is to say, havingalready unsubstantiated as spoken by the of itin a former work (The Ziucali) proof,it is needless to take ; it slightest
was

translated

with by myself, together

the greater part of the New

Testament,

further notice than to observe that, vided prothe Phenician as many language, of the almost

during my long intercourse with the the Luke Spanish Gypsies. Concerning
iu

learned truhj

have

and supposed,
dialect

Euscarra,however,

itwill be

as

well

a proved,was allied Hebrew, or closely

as

of

the

to be more

and to avail myparticular, self of the present opportunity to say a few words concerning the language in which it was written, and the people for "whom The for
a

unreasonable is derived

to

it were to it, that the suppose it

as are

Basque

from

that

the

Kamschatdale of the Greek There with

and Cherokee
or

dialects

Latin. another the

it was

intended.

is,however,
to
more

Euscarra, then,is the proper term certain speech or language, posed supto

respect

have

been

at

one

prevalent circumstance
entertained

opinion serves Basque which dethe from notice, especial of its being extensively
the literati of
to the
rious va-

throughoutSpain,but
confined
on

which

to

certain

is at sent preboth districts,

amongst
of

countries

Europe, more
its close

cially espe-

Spanish side of the which are laved by the waters Pyrenees, of the Cantabrian Gulf, or Bay of Biscay. This language is commonly known the Basque, or as Biscayan, which
words word been
are

the French

and

England. I allude of this tongue, and origin

with who the the
most

Celtic
nexion con-

cultivated the Irish.

conversant

of all

the Celtic dialects"

People
with far

mere

modifications

of

the

Much

B having Euscarra,the consonant for the sake of euphony. prefixed that is vague, and erroneous,

has been said and written hypothetical each other,with this conceming tongue. The Basques cultyin understanding communication than of assert that it was other not means only the original no in of their the a but also of word, language Spain, world, respective languages ; and that from it all other languages that there is scarcely a greater differ* are

to as gone so exists difference little that so assert, the Basque and Irish tongues, between of the two nations, that individuals diflifind no when they meet together,

to be well pretend have even subject,

218
euce

THE
between French the
two

BIBLE
between

IN

SPAIN.
the Calmuc and

[chap. XXXVII.
the Turkish of

than

the

and the Spanish Basque. the Caspian sea; and in Europe, the however, though so similarity, Hungarian and the Basquepartialli/. Indeed this latter language is a strange insisted upon, by no means strongly in the whole exists in fact ; and perhaps anomaly, so that upon the whole it is cover less difl"cult to say what it is not, than of Europe it would be difficultto disexhibit what Sanscrit is. It abounds with two languages which mutual words fewer resemblance such surface of that its a to degree points with them. Yet would it than the Basque and Irish, strewn seems other European be wrong it a Sancrit dialect, The Irish, like most to term is of the for in the of these words the dialect collocation a Sanscrit, languages, Tartar form is well be able. observremote most a supposed decidedly one, as may ; in of world A considerable the of the westeni comer proportion which of all Tai'tar words is still be likewise to found it is preservedbeing, in this language, distant countries in Europe, the most not in though perhaps of the parent equalnumber derived from from the proper home to the terms Such

golian,
the Sanscrit. Of these Tartar

tongue.
of that

It is

still, however,
and
most

dialect

etymons

original I shall at present content myself with it citing if necessary, it were not so closely it, resembling one, though, speech, adduce is true, as the English,Danish, and hundreds. This word to easy what is is is Khauthose which called it to as Jauna, pronounced, belong or, tJie Gothic family,and far less than word in use constant a na, amongst the is Khan which the of the and those of the Sclavonian ; for the nearer Basques, and in gree deof the and the we Mandchous, East, Mongols approach to equal the assimilation of languagesto Lord. same signification examined the subject clear this parent stock becomes more Having closely and having and distinct ; but still a dialect, in all its various bearings, ing agreewith the Sanscrit in structure, in weighed what is to be said on one side the the arrangement of words, and in many what is to be advanced on against instances in the words themselves, other,I am inclined to rank the Basque
venerable
"

which,

however

modified,may
But

stillbe what is

Sanscrit. as recognised the Basque,and to what ? properly pertain To

two

rather amongst the Tartar dialects. Whoever

an

than the Sanscrit should and have

ciation enun-

familydoes it

of opportunity of the from them that

comparing the
alone,even
come

Basques
not,

Tartars if he
derstood un-

great Asiatic languagesall the dialectsspokenat present in Europe may be traced. These two, if not now spoken,stillexist in books, and are,
moreover,
to

would,

sion to the conclu-

that their respective were languages In both formed the same on principles.
occur

the languages of two of the East. principal religions the

of the I allude the

cred sa-

Tibetian and

Sanscrit
"

periods seeminglyinterminable, the voice gradually during which ascends to a climax,and then gradually
sinks down. I have

languages of
Buddh
common,

the

followers words

of in

and

Bramah.
possess

These

tongues,

spokenof

the

ber numsui-prising

though they
which for

many is easily to be accoimted

are

of Sanscrit words which will be found

contained below. in the

in the
some

of specimens Basque language,

of
markable re-

by proximity, perly prodistinct, beingwidelydifferentin

In what this difference
nor
sists, con-

their close

It is

enough, that

greater

structure.

I have neither time

inclination

scrit, part of the derivatives from the Santhe Bascjue has droppedthe initial

to state ; suffice it to say, that the Celtic, consonant, so that the word commences with rope The vowel. a Gothic, and Sclavonian dialects in EuBasque, indeed,

belongto
as

the Sanscrit

even family,

may

in the East the the

degreethe
to

and to a less Persian, Arabic,Hebrew, "c. : whilst

or

be said to be almost a vowel of consonants ; the number few: being comparatively

guage lanployed em-

haps perto

Tibetian

Tartar

family in
and Mon-

eightwords

out
a

of ten vowel,

commence

Asia

the Mandchou pertain

and terminate with

owing

CHAP.

XXXVII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

21?J

it is a language to tlie highest place, the acquisition of it is by no which far excelling means to those who side redegreesoft and melodious, necessary even in the countries where in this respect any other language in itis spoken the Italian. the Spanishbeinggenerally understood Europe,not even excepting of Basque throughoutthe Basque provincesperHere follow a few specimens taining words with the Sanscrit roots in juxtato Spain, and the French in position those pertaining to France. : In the second place, neither dialect BASQUE. H'^ine. Anloa .Sandhana is in possession of any peculiar ture literaKatri Arratsa Ni"jht. the toil of of the repaying capable Akshi Beguia HyV'
,
"

SANBORII.

Choria
Chacurra

Chiria Cucura Rani Ikslia

Bird.

student.

There

are

various

books

ex-

Dog.
Queen
To To Far.
see.

tant both

in French
are

Erreguina
Icusi Iru Jan Uria Urruti

bat these consist and It

Spanish l^asque, of Popishdevotion, entirely

lations. part trans-

and

Treya

Three.
eat.

for the most

(Khan)

Khana Puri Dura

City.

I Such is the tongue in which small and inconsiderable. They have Saint Luke's Gospel at Madrid. The lack of songs, ballads, and translation I procuredoriginalljno certainly of the name from a Basque phys?^ian character of but a stanzas, by no means of Oteiza. Previous entitled to the appellation to being sent to of poetry. I
out

here be asked whether will,perhaps, do not Basques posst^ss popular hoAvever brought poetry,like most other nations, the

from recitation, a considerable press, the version had lain nearly have noted down of what theycall their two during possession, portion years in my which time, and particularly duringmy poetry, but the only tolei'able specimen the I travels, who
were

it to in the

of submitting of verse which I ever discovered amongst opportunity of those them the following was inspection stanza, which, lars after all, is not entitled to very high considered competent schoEuscarra. It did not entirely praise : lost
no

the

"

pleaseme
for
a

; but

it

was

in vain to seek

"

better translation.

Ichasoa urac Estu ondoric

aundi, ai,nieri
"

Pasaco ninsaqueni andic youth I had obtained a early Maitea icustea gatic." with the Euscarra, acquaintance slight {.e. The of the sea are This acquaintwaters it exists in books. vast, as ance be seen; but cannot I considerably increased during and their bottom hold bethem I will pass, that I may over my stay in Spain; and by occasionally love." with enabled to was mingling Basques, my The understand the spoken langiiage to a Basques are a singingrather ing certain extent, and even to speak it, than a poetical people. Notwithstandtheir tongue with which the facility but always with considerable hesit;iof verse, lends itselfto the composition tion ; for to speak Basque, even ably, tolerhave lived in to have it is necessary never they producedamong them with the to the countiy from a a very pretensions early period. slightest poet their voices but are So great are the difficulties attending reputation larly singu; known to and so strange are its peculiarities, it, sweet, and they are the It is that it is veiy rare to find a foreignerexcel in musical composition. considerable skill in of any opinionof a certain author, the Abbe possessed the oral language, and the Spaniards D'llharce,who has written alfcut them, that they derived the name (\intahri, consider the obstacles formidable so mans, known to the Roshat they have a proverb to the effect by which they were from that Satan once lived seven in Khnntor-her, signifying years self himsweet and then departed, singers. They possess much Biscay, finding

In my

"

'

unable make

either to

understand

or

to

music

himself understood. few inducements There to the are study of this language. In the first

is of which of their own, some Of this ancient. said to be exceedingly at Domusic specimens were published nostian

(San Sebastian)in

the year

220

THE edited

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

fcHAP.
and will

XXXVII.

1826,

by

certain

Juan of sound

Ignacio
wild and of which

amongst
is
"

them,

no

one

ledge acknow-

Iztueta.

These

consist
to the

thrilling marches,
it is believed
were

as

that habit

the of

in

the

Basques descending from

with the mans, Ro-

ancient

He
"

say,

a superior. poorest carman of Tolosa. proud as the governor is more powerftd than I," he will I am of as good blood but haps ; per-

The

their

mountains
and

to combat

hereafter

I may

become abhor
own

governor
at

subsequently with the Moors. "Whilst it is listening to them easy to oneself in the close vicinityof suppose some We desperate encounter. to seem hear the charge of cavalry on the sounding plain,the clash of swords, and the of men the down rusMng of gorges hills. This music is accompanied with ! words, but such words Nothing can be imagined more stupid, commonplace, and uninteresting. So far from being martial, they relate to every-day have to incidents, and appear no nexion conwhatever
are

myself"
least
out

They
of

servitude,
country;
it is very
rare common

their

and

though
them find
to

circumstances seek

frequently oblige
to

masters,

the places of filling domestics; they are stewards,

them

ries, secreta-

accountants,
it
was

"c.

True
to

it

is, that
a

my

0"wn

fortune but
as
an

obtain he

Basque
treated

domestic;
me

then

always
than
a

more

equal
in my

master,

would his

sit down advice

give
into and

me

unasked,
with
me

presence, and enter all ?

conversation

at

times tainly Cerwould

ture creawas a

with of modern the

are

the

music.

They
of the

occasions.
not

Did
For

I check in that
a more

him he

evidently
In person

date.
are

case

Basques
active

have

left me, I
never

and

faithful

middle

size,and
are

and

athletic.

knew.
one,
as

His
will

fate

They
and

general of fair complexions handsome in appearfeatures, and ance

bear
no

in

mournful

appear

in

the

sequel.
I have

slight resemblance
tribes of the

to

tain cer-

said
and

Tartar

Caucasus.

servitude,

bravery is unquestionable, and the best soldiery they are considered as fact belonging to the Spanish crown : a of the supposition highly corroborative that they are of Tartar tars origin, the Tarthe most being of all races warlike,
and

Their

serving
the

as

I males. have
enter

the Basques abhor rarely to be found domestics the niards. Spaamongst allude, however, merely to
are

that

The
no as

females,

on

the

trary, con-

objection
seiwants.

whatever

to

houses

Women,

deed, innot

amongst
looked
unon

the

Basques
esteem
are

are

amongst

whom

the

most

able remark-

with

all the

which
as nial me-

They
kind which

have conquerors faithful and are of much and

been

produced.
and
pable ca-

they

aeserve,

and

considered
to

honest,

fitted for little else than

perform

disinterested
to

attachment

offices, even

as

in the

East, where

hospitable strangers ; all of far from points are riance being at vathe Tartar character.

they
and

are

viewed The

in the

slaves.

with

But
pacities ca-

they

are

somewhat
are

dull,
no

and of

their
a

by

means

high

widely in character are quick and vivacious, and have talent. more general much They
famous
most

light of servants Basque females differ from the men ; they

in
are

order,
resemble No the

and the

in these Tartars.
on

respects they again

are

for their

skill

as

cooks,
of be found

and

in
a

respectable
female queen

houses may

Madrid

people

earth

prouder than
a

Biscayan
kitchen,

in the

Basques, but theirs is pride. They have

kind
no

of

publican re-

supreme

of the

culinary

nobility department.

221

CHAPTER

XXXVIII.

The

Prohibition

"

Gospol Persecuted

"

Charge

of

Sorcery" Ofalia.

About
'was

the middle of January

made
me

the

upon shape of a sell any

from the
to

arrived at the shop with a notice pro* the further sale of the work. hibiting Sinme. peremptory prohibition One circumstance rejoiced of Madrid the it authorities as political giilar may appear, governor
a

swoop

by

my

enemies, in

more
no

New
means

Testaments. took
me

took

no

measures

to

cause

my

little

and I received by by despachoto be closed, had the sale of any time I for no some as prohibition respecting surprise, viously prework but the New been expecting something of Testament, and as of the political the Gospelof Saint Luke, in Rommany the kind, on account would then in within a short time and Basque, sentiments of the ministers forthwith be for I I hoped to carry visit Sir a to paid ready delivery, power. in him what small of matters on a informing George Villiers, way till better do should arrive. He all timesv had occurred. promised to I was advised from the shop the prohibition to erase he could to cause to be windows the words withdrawn. at this time Unfortunately Despacho of the he had not much influence, havingopSociety." posed British and Foreign Bible with all his might the entrance This,however, I refused to do. Those words had tended very much of the moderado to power, and to call ministry which was the nomination of Ofalia to the presidency attention, grand object. my Had I attempted in an of the cabinet. I,however, never to conduct things underhand in whose I the time lostconfidence in the Almighty, at should, manner, of which I I was h am cause speaking, engaged. scarcelyave well fore besold in Matters were on copies Madrid, instead of going thirty very for Teshundred. taments nearly three The demand this check. People who Imow be so me was not may disposedto call becoming considerable, rash I far from much that the but am so were alarmed, me being so, clergy ; But I and this step was the consequence. as never course adopt a venturous I am to another, when recourse theyhad previously any other is open to me. well worthy of them; they attempted to not. however, a person to be terrified I see that bravwhen ing One of the ruffians by any danger, act upon my fears. This
measure
"

of
me me

called Manolos, came INIadrid,

one

up to

it is the

onlyway
were

to

achieve

an

in night, Jewish
"

that unless
"

object. street,and told I discontinued selling The booksellers

a

dark

my him

books," I

should

have

sell my
a

work

knife

nailed in my
go

to

home,
he

heart ;" but I told say his prayers, and

them pitied with
an

shop
I

; I was of my
a

unwillingto to establish compelled own. Every shop

What
one name

in

Madrid

has

name.

tell his oath. A

employersthat I
turned few

could
not

whereupon

aAvay

giveit but the true ashamed of my cause or

was

my

colours.

I hoisted I received an them, and fought beneath days after, without order to send two of the ment Testathem not success. copies The to the office of the political priestly party in Madrid, in the vernor, goand in with which I complied, time, spared no effort to vilify mean called less than twenty-four hours an alguazil me. They started a publication

222
"

THE
Friend in which of the
a

BIBLE
gion," Reli-

IN

SPAIN.
with he

[CQAP. XXXTTIl.
Ofalia
on

The

Christian

interviews and

the

subject,

attack

upon

me

stupidbut appeared,which
the

furious

however, treated

with

But not deserved. they endeavoured to

I, sense contempt it had satisfied with this,

incite the lace popu-

expressedto him his of the injustice and tyranny which been practised in this instance towards
his countryman. had been moved and
to
more

in these

Ofalia

by

these

monstrances, re-

them that I me, by telling against and a a sorcerer, was companion of and their agents and witches, Gypsies
even

than

once

mised pro-

Sir

do all in his power to oblige George ; but then the bishopsagain

in the streets. That beset him, and playingupon his policalled me so tical of and tune-tellers if not religious forI was associate an fears, px-evented Gypsies him from- actinga just,honest, and I do not deny. Why should of their honourable when I be ashamed part. At the desire of Sir : company with and George Villiers,I drew up a brief publicans my Master mingled of the Bible Society, and an thieves? account ( Many of the Gypsy race received of its views, especially in to visit me; came exposition frequently and heard parts of the Gospel he presented instruction, respect to Spain,which hand I read to them in their own to the Count. language, with his own and when I gave I
am

they were
them
to eat

hungry
and

and

faint,
This

drink.

but deemed sorceiy in Spain, without hope that it will be otherwise estimated in England; and

might be
not

shall not trouble the reader by inserting this memorial, but content myself with observing, that I made no attempts and to flatter self but expressed cajole, my-

{
i

had there

at perished
are some

this

I period,

think

" would have been to acknowledge that I had not disposed in vain, (alwaysas an not Catholics." lived altogether of the "Most instrument to my Highest,") A few days subsequently,

who

[ and frankly, as a Christian honestly { reading it, said, ought. Ofalia,on AVhat a pitythat this is a Protestant and that all its members are society,
great

having
the most
the

been

permittedto
books the most

turn

one

of

valuable

of

God

into
his
to

he sent a message to me astonishment, that I would by a friend,requesting send him a copy of my Gypsy Gospel. I may as well here state,that the fame of this work, though not yet published,

speechof
mean

degradedof
I endeavoured

creatures.

In the
enter into

time

for the
and

like wildfire through with the ministry had already spread negociations and of Madrid, ately passionobtaining p ermission every person was purpose Testament in

to sell the New

Madrid,

eager

to

possess

copy

indeed,

several grandees of Spain sent messages prohibition. with similar requests, all of which I I experienced, however, great opposition, denied. however I instantly resolved which I was unable to surmount. Several of the ultra-popish bishops, to take advantage of this overture on the nullification of the

then resident in

Madrid, had

denounced

the part of Count

and Ofalia,

to call

on

and mySociet}% self. him myself. I therefore caused a copy of the Gospel to be handsomelybound, Nevertheless, notwithstanding stantly intheir powerfuland united efforts, was they and proceedingto the palace, He effect then- principal admitted to him. unable to was a were dusky,diminutive person, between fifty object,namely, my expulsion from Madrid and Spain. 'The Count Ofalia, and sixty years of age, with false hair self himand teeth, he had permitted but exceedingly gentlemanly notwithstanding

the Bible, the Bible

to

be

made
to be

the

instrument,to

manners.

He

received thanked my
me

me

with for my
me

great
sent prethat ficulties, dif-

certain

extent, of these

not consent

and would affability, people, pushedto such a length. ; but on of the New the

to speak proceeding

find Throughout this afi'air I cannot words suSiciently strong to do justice

to

Testament, he told
surrounded

subject was

with

the
the

zeal

and

interest which the He

Sir
cause

in George Villiers displayed of Testament.

and that the great body of the had taken up the matter against clergyme

had

various

; he

conjuredme,

however,

to

be

224

CHAPTER

XXXIX.

The

Two

Gospels" The

Prison"

Reflections"

Alguazil" The Warrant" The Reception" The

The Prison

Good
Room
"

Maria"

The

Arrest

"

Sent

ta

Redress Demanded.

the Gospelof Saint Luke in satellitesreturned in triumph to the length where Gypsy language-was in a state of gefaturapolitica, they divided of the Gypsy volume amongst readiness. I therefore deposited the copies a certain in the despaclio, of copies number themselves, selling subsequentlythe for sale. them Tlie number at and announced a the largeprice, greater which this time in also the book and was demand, being Basque, greatest by likewise advertised. I'or thus was printed, becoming unintentionally agents littledemand. of an heretical society.But eveiy one this last work there was Not so, however, for the Gypsy Luke, live by his trade,say these peomust ple, and of which I could have easily of dispv"ed they lose no opportunity of the whole edition in less than a foit- making their words good,by disposing night. Long, however, be (ore this to tlie licst advantage of any booty which falls into their hands. were As no periodhad expired the clergy up said cared in arms. ! about the llasqueGospel, oue Sorcery l^ishop. person in this than we it was stowed There is more can safely away, with other

At

the

"

"

"

dive

into,"exclaimed
all

second.

"

He Arid

unmarketable The

captures, in

the

ware-

will convert then

Spainby means cried a third. Gypsy language,"

came

of the I bouses such

of the office.

Gypsy Gospelshad
as

now

been

the

usual

chorus

on

seized,at least
and his

many

as

Avere

exposed
gidor correwere

of Que injamia : Que picaroccasions,

for sale in the

despacho.

The

dia!

At

last,having consulted

ther, toge-

friends, however,

of opinionthat many to their tool more might be away they hurried of a little managethe corregidor, according to the obtained by means or, ment. of Madrid. modern term, the gefe politico P'ellows,therefore, hangers on I have the name of of the pol were ice-office, despatched forgotten daily of whom I had myself no this worthy, to the shop in all kinds of disguises, with great seeming anxiety, knowledge whatever. Judging inquiring, personal from his actions, however, and fi-om for Gypsy books," and offering high should that for copies. They, however, reI he common turned prices report, say thei to a r was stupidwrong-headed creature, cmptj'-handed. employers ing informa melange of borrieo, My Galleganwas on his guard, savage withal all inveterate made who that an mule, and wolf. Having inquiries, books all of would he lent be sold at the to a no foreigners, antipathy description the the of establishment for to ear complaint willing present. Which my and forthwith orders in truth the to was given accusers, case, as I had gave him of the orders make a seizure of all the to sell no more copies particular Gypsy Gospelwhich could be found in under any pretence whatever. I got no the despacho. The credit,however, for my was, consequence frank of and his that a numerous body alguazils dealing. The corregidor del Calle their confederates the could not persuade selves themdirected steps to but tliat, means thirtjcopiesof the piiucipe;some by some rious mystein question and unknown book were to them, I was pounced upon, daily and about the same of Saint hundreds number of these Gj'psy books, selling these Luke in Basque. With this spoil which were to revolutionise the coun"
"

CHAP.

XXXIX.]
annihilate

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
conducted him down

225

try, and
Father

of Rome.

resolved npon, hoped to have

me

by
an

of the the power therefore A plan was of which they means

him,
the

stairs from I lived, into in steadfastly

the third

tioor in which

in

me

of placing opportunity which would citate incapaposition time from taking for some
measures

street, lookinghim the face the whole while. The fellow had left his sombrero on the tiible, which I despatched to him

any

active

to

circulate
or

the

by

the

either Scriptures, other language. It of

was
on

in

Gypsy

in any the

his hand

delivered it into stood in the street staring with distended eyes at the balcony
as

who landlady, he

the

morning of
an

first of my
"

laid for you, his appearance in my Don Jorge," said Mai'ia Diaz,when she " re-ascended seated breakfast had from the that I at as street was apartment ; ; corchete came here with no other intenhe was about tion a mean-lookingfellow, than to have a dispute with you ; the middle statm-e,with a countenance written in legible out of every word you have said he will which knave was on

May,

if I forget not, that

unkno-vvn

apartment. trampa has been

individual made

characters.

The

in,and
the

then withdrew. of my

hostess ushered I did not

him like

make

with these

as long history, indeed people ;

is the custom he said,as I

him his hat, that ere but assuming handed visitor, twentyof hours I four quested rewere some degree over, you should see courtesy, him to sit down, and demanded the inside of the prison of Madrid." " of the from his the I lency excelIn business. his course come effect, during chief had of he told that I the political a warrant Madrid," morning, was

appearance

The business is to inform been issued for my apprehension. of incarceration, however, did you that his excellency is perfectlyprospect venturous and is at with much of your proceedings, not fillme aware dismay ; an adlife and inveterate habits of any time able to prove that you are still disposing of in secret those evil wanderinghavinglong familiarized me so books which to situations of every kind, so much you have been forbidden

replied,and
"

my

to sell."

"

Is he

so

?" I

replied ;

"

pray

as

to

feel

as myself quite

comfortable

in

of in the gilded chambers let him do so forthwith ; but what need a prisonas " in the mer forhaps," palaces Perindeed information ? " of giving me as more so, ; continued the fellow, " you place I can alwaysadd to my store in the whereas think his worship has no witnesses ; of useful information,

know, however,
ones
"

assails me. I frequently for been some thinking respectable time past of payinga visit to the prison, replied, and from the respectability in the hope of being able to say of your own are partly haps perappearance, you that he has many,
"

and

ennui latter,

too."

Doubtless," I

had,

moreover,

one

of them. time

But

you

are

pying occu-

few words

my that I have

unprofitably; begone,
tell whoever
sent

the of

with and partly criminals,

of Christian instruction to the view

and therefore,

you,

by

no

means
"

highopinion

robber about

in the making certain investigations of a subject Spain, language which I

I shall go when I ''" the fellow do retorted please," ; you know to whom ? Are you are speaking of his wisdom." search that if I think fit I can you aware below your apartment, yes, even your What have we bed? tinued, here," he conwith his stick and commenced papers which layupon have we here ; are chair ; a ?" I these also papers of the Gypsies
a heap of poking
"

had

long

felt much

curiosity ; indeed, I had

made already

for admittance into the Carapplication cel de la Corte,but had found the matter with as difficulties, my friend Ofalia would have said. I rather which then in the opportunity rejoiced itselfof ing enterabout to present was now of a character in the the prison, not suiTOunded visitor for
an

what

hour, but

as

martyr, and

determined instantly

of religion. in the holy cause submitting as one suffering I was determined, however, to to this behaviour, and taking no longer the fellow by the arm, led him out of disappoint my enemies for that day at tlie apartment, and then, stillholding least, and to render null the threat ot upon

Q2

226

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.XXXIX,

that I should be imprisoned adventures of this kind. From the algixazil, hours. I therefore to twent}--four apartment of Sir George I proceeded took up my abode for the rest of the daj- that of the first secretary of embassy, within in
a

the

celebrated

French

tavern

in

the

Mr. there and

Southern, with
a

whom I had

I entered been scarcely

servant

Calle del Caballero de Gracia, which, it was of the most one as fashionable
and in Madrid, I naturally public places
was

into conversation.
minute when rushed in violent
"

in,

my much

cisco Fran-

out

of

breathy

agitation, exclaimingin Basque, seeking (masterviine)^ About the alguaziloac and the corchetoac, and ten at night,INIaria Diaz, to whom I had commimicated the place all the other lapurrac of are (thieves) again arrived with half her Juan the house. at seem retreat, mad, and my son, They ing 0 senor,"said she on seeing not beingable to find you, are searchLopez. in I of are me, they already quest you ; your papers, thinking, suppose, the alcalde of the barrio,with a large that you are hid among them." Mr. comitiva of algTiazils quired and Southern here interrupting such like him, inone

concluded

of the last where of

the

would corregidor

think

me.

Niri jauna

"

"

have justbeen people,

a

at our

house

with

of

me

what

all

this

meant.

warrant

for your

from imprisonment searched much

Whereupon
same

I told

him, saying at

the

the whole \rhat

corregidor.They
house, and
at not
were

the

time, that it was

to

Wo finding you. they do when they catch said INIr.S., before we can interfere." Be xmder I no you?" apprehensions, I must take my chance as to that," and presently afterwards that parted. degood Maria," said I ; you forget replied, I am an Englishman, and so it seems does the corregidor. "Whenever dle he Ere,however, I had reached the midcatches me, of the street of Alcala, two fellows depend upon it he will be gladenough to let me and telling For the that I me came go. up to me, commanded their prisoner, to me was present, however, we will permit him i to follow his own for the spiritfollow them to the office of the correcourse, of folly to have seized him." seems ; gidor. They were, in fact, alguazils, I slept that I might enter or at the tavern, and in the forenoon who, suspecting of the following of the out to come day repaired embassy,had stationed the embassy, where themselves in the neighbourhood. I I had an interview with Sir George, to whom turned round I related to Francisco, instantly circumstance and of the affair. told him in He return to the to Basque eveiy will
" " " "
'
.

proceedat once pointed disapis me, perhapsthese

my " my lodgings. But fellows will arrest you,"

intention to

said that he could

believe scarcely

that

embassy,

and

to

relate there

to

the

se-

j
I
'

any serious intentions of imprisoning me ; in the firstplace, because I had committed no

tlie corregidor entertained

cretary what

had

just occurred.

The

turnpoor fellow set off like lightning, half shake his to however, round, ing

offence;and
was

not

under

in the second, because I the jurisdiction of that

was

and fist,
at

to

the

two

Basque lapurrac,as he
vent
a

execration called the

but under functionary, who

to decide

that of the tain-general, alguazils. capalone empowered They conducted which whom relate to I must
or

upon matters and before foreigners, be

"'

office of the
me

ushered bench.
on

gefatura where they corregidor, into a large and motioned room,

me

to the

sul brought in the presence of the conof my nation. " However," said he, no

me

to

sit down

on

wooden
at

They

then stationed themselves

me.

there is

knowing

to

what go.

length
I therefore any here

each

side of

There

were

these jacks in office may advise you, if you

to apprehension,

are

under my

least twenty apartment their beside ourselves, evidently from appearance officialsof the establishment. for the most all well dressed, fashion, in round part in the French and yet they hats,coats, and pantaloons,

peoplein the

remain
a

as

guest at

the

embassy

for

few

days,for

They

were

safe." I assured him you win be quite that I was under no apprehension ever, what-

having long

been

accustomed

to

looked what

in

reality they were.

Spa-

(JllAP.

XXXIX.]
and spies, alguazils, Gil his

THE

BIBLE
:

IN

SPAIN.
an

nish
and

informers
have waked

audience
had with

of the

Bias, could

he

from

sleepof

two

the him the danger to which he was jecting subnotwithstanding have had no in recognising himself by the rash step which difficulty them. They glanced at me as they he was taking. The sullen functionary, stood lounging about the room had refused to see him, thinking, howevei-, ; then themselves in a circle gathered together perhaps,that to listen to reason and began conversing in whispers. I would be a dereliction of dignity : by heard the
one

centuries, would, change of fashion,

manded
in which he intended
to

corregidor,
have
to

monstrated re-

him, and pointed out

of them

say,

"

he understands

this

conduct,however,

he most

effiectu-

sei'ved me, as no person, after such Gypsy jargons." Then presently ally his a another, evidentlyfrom specimen of uncalled-for insolence, "s felt disposedto question the violence language an Andalusian, said diestro is and and which had been skilful), (he injustice very viui/ practised
seven
"

can as

ride well

horse if he

and
came

dart

knife

full
own

towards
The

me.

conducted me alguazils across my the Plaza Mayor to the Carcel de la country." Thereupon they all turned round and regardedme with a species Corte, or prison of the court, as it is of interest, called. Whilst going across the square, spect, evidently mingled with reI remembered which that this was most assuredly the place theywould the good old times," the not have exhibited had they conceived where, in that I was ing bearof Spainwas in the habit of Inquisition merely an honest man witness in a righteous cause. holding its solemn Autos dafe, and I I waited patiently the bench at cast my on of the city eye to the balcony least one hour, expecting where the moment hall, solemn of them at most eveiy lord the the last of the Austrian line in Spain before my to be summoned all, of corregidor.I suppose, however, that sat, and after some thirty heretics, I was both of had been burnt not deemed and fours being worthy sexes, mitted perby for to see so exalted a personage, with by fives, wiped his face, perspiring and black with at the end of that time,an elderly and heat, smoke, man, calmly however of the alguazil inquired, No one evidently hay mas ? for which into the room and advanced genus, came exemplary proof of patiencehe was towards Stand and conme. directly fessors, up," much applauded by his priests said he. is your who subsequently I obeyed. What him. poisoned name?" he demanded. And I told him. here am I," thought I, who have done more to wound a paper Then," he replied, exhibiting Popery than
as
" " " " " " " *'

from

which

he held that

in his be

hand,

"

it Seiior,
gidor, corre-

all the
ever

is the will of his

you

the excellency

Christian martyrs that poor sufi'ered in this accursed square,

to

forthwith

sent

to

merely sent
sure

from prison,
a

which

am

prison,"
He looked he at me as steadfastly that I should spoke,perhaps expecting sink
name

to be

liberated in

few

days,with

into the of then

earth

at

the

formidable

credit and applause. Pope of Kome !I believe you to be as malicious as ever, but you are sadly deficient in power. You and
are

prison ;
was

I however

onlysmiled.
which
two

become club

He

delivered the paper,

into the hand the warrant of
a

suppose

one

for my of my

mittal, com-

your crutch. We stands in

has

Batuschca, paralytic, degeneratedto a

the

arrived at
a

prison,which
not

captors,and

obeying

signwhich

they
tary secre-

narrow

street

far from
a

madt,
I been
as

I followed

them.

leanied that the subsequently of

the great square. We entered the end which of at passage, wicket

a

dusky
was
a

Mr. Southern, had legation, Sir despatched George,as soon by

door.

fierce

the latter had obtained information of my arrest, and had been waiting at the office duringthe greater part of the time that I was there. He had de-

wicket ;

knocked, My visage peered through the there was an exchange of

in
a

conductors

words, and
a

few moments

I found

myselfwithin

the prison of Madrid, in kind of corridor which overlooked at

228

THE
altitude what

BIBLE

IN
may

SPAIN.
think
even

[chap.XXXIX.
fit to the turnkeysand if they were as your I will
now

considerable
a

appeared

cials, offiown

to be

bub arose a hubcourt, from which of voices, and wild occasionally cries.
as a one

servants.

have

the honour
"

shouts and which several

a

Within kind the of of them

the

served

corridor, of conducting you to yom- apartment the at were one We office, only present unoccupied.
sat

people ;
to

behind
went

resei've invariably

it for

cavaliers
to

of

desk, ond and time

him low

up,
some

after in

alguazils with him discoursing

tones, delivered the
He He

distinction. my orders

warrant

into his hands. What ! figure

to
not

perusedit
was

then with attention,

to
me. a

he advanced rising about and his

some

am happy say that with againin consonance inclination. No whatever charge my will be made for it to you, though the hire of it is not u.nfrequently an daily of gold. I entreat you, therefore, ounce are

forty years age, might have amounted

two

of

height
six feet curved

to follow

me,

who cavalier, the

most

am

at

all

times and he

and devoted

seasons

obedient
Here foundly. pro-

inches, had
weazel looked
ever as

he

been

much

after the fashion if

of the letter S. of air would

took Such

of your off his hat

servants." and bowed the

a

No
he

appearedlanker, and
a

breath

was

the

speechof
ISIadrid ;

have been sufficient to blow him away ; have been his face might certainly
called handsome, had it not been for its extra 0 I'd iuary and portentous meagreness ;

of the

prisonof
in pure

alcayde livered speech de-

sonorous

with Castilian,

and almost with digcalmness, gravity, nity

like an eagle's bill, his eyes black, ivory, (Oh, how black!)and fraughtwith a his skin was dark, strange expression, and the hair of his head like the plumage A deep quietsmile who in the name of wonder this of the i-aven. was his features ; but ? dwelt continually on alcayde it was One of the greatest rascals in all with all the quiet a cruel smile, than have graced the such a one as would Spain. A fellow who had more and by Mais of a Nero. countenance en vanche recupidity, by his grasping once,
nose was as

his

his teefh white

speechwhich would have done honour to a gentlemanof high birth, to Monsieur of the Old BasBasompierre, Italian prince, the an or tile, receiving high constable of the Tower an English duke attainted of high treason. Now,
;
a

"

personne
"

n'e'toitplus lionnete." his curtailment

me

of the miserable

rations

caused an insurrection prisoners, introduce myselfto you as the alcayde in the court below only to be repressed tary and by summoning miliof this prison.I perceive by this paper by bloodshed,

Caballero," said he, "allow

to

of the

that 1

am

to

have
a

the honour
a

company beneath banish

for

time,

of your short time less, doubtwill your with

aid ;

fellow

of low

birth,who,

this

mind.

every I am

roof; I hope you from apprehension chargedto treat you

mer had been drumonlyfive years previous, volunteers ! to a band of royalist nary But Spain is the land of extraordicharacters. I followed the the

trious all the respect which is due to the illusand nation to which you belong, exalted catewhich a cavalier of such is entitled to expect. goiy as yourself it is true, as I should A needless charge,

alcaydeto

the end of

massive a was corridor, where door, on each side of which sat gi'ated
a

grim fellow of a turnkey. The door opened, and turningto the right we proceededdown another corridor, only have been too happy of my own in which accord to have afforded you every comwere fort peoplewalking many discovered will vv^hom I and attention. about, Caballero, subsequently you but for polike myself, here as a guest to be prisoners rather consider yourself litical this corend of offences. the ridor, At will be than a prisoner permitted ; you extended the whole length which to roam over eveiy part of this house into another, turned will of the You think we whenever patio, proper. you the and the first apartment in this was find matters below here not altogether destined for myself. It was mind. the attention of a philosophic large one destitute of every and lofty, but totally commands Pray issue whatever you
was

CHAP.

XXXIX.j
of

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

229

species
of
a

farniture,
"wooden

"witli

the

exception
to

your enemy,

friend,
as

instead
is yours

of

being
the noble he

your
case.

worst

huge
my

pitcher,
allowance the

intended of
water.
"

iisually
is
a

That I

hold
"

daily
snid
is without is

Basque
shall you, when
to

of
never

fellow.

Caballero,"

alcayde,
as

the you

forget
he inform both
came

how

spoke
to

for
bassy em-

apartment
see.

furniture,
the advise third you hour
to

running
us

the

It I in and

already

of lose

the
no
a

of

your

arrest.

He

tarde,
time

therefore

intei'ested
in the

Sir

George
:

and you

myself
ever

sending
whatever the

to

your you here

lodgings
may shall do till

for

highest
to

degree
with the
to
me

should
I

bed need

stand

in

wish Avill vices. then

part
me now

him,
refusal other that in
an

hope
of his

you
sei*-

of;

llavero

your
I
see

give
But

bidding.
you
I
note

Caballero,

adieu,

matters."

He

again."
followed
in

informed

Sir
official for

George
note to
a

his

advice,
to

and,

writing
I and

had.

already

sent

pencil
it

INIaria

Diaz,

spatched Ofalia, de-

demanding
outrage
on

redress
the person
must
"

such

by
on

the the

llavero,
wooden which

then,
I

wanton

of
remain but you

tish Briin

sitting
fell
a

down
a

pitcher,
continued

subject. prison,"
upon said he it that you
am

"You

into

reverie,
time.

for

to-night,
if in

depend
are

considerable

to-morrow,
may
means

posed, dis"

Night
Diaz,
all
"was

arrived,

and
two

so

did and A

INTaria
cisco, Fran-

quit
"

triumph."
for have

attended

by

porters
furniture.
was

by

no

disposed They
for their here

any

such
me

loaded

with charcoal

lamp
in
was

thing,"
in

replied.
for

put
I
"

lighted,
brasero,
a

kindled

prison
to

pleasure, and
my own."
to

tend in-

the
to

and

the

prison

gloom
the

remain

If

certain
now

degree
left down
some

dispelled.
seat
on a on

the

confinement
Mr. be

is not
"

irksome
I

you,"
it

my

pitcher,
viands,
not

said will

Southern,
your

think,
;

indeed,
ment govern-

and
to

sitting despatch
my
to

chair,
and
had. her. He

proceeded
gotten for-

wisest
committed
to
are

plan

the

wine hostess with

have with

themselves you;

sadly
to

which

good bring

regard
we

and,
no

speak
for
sion occa-

Suddenly laughed
in
* * *

plainly,
it.

by
on

means

sorry
one

iSIr.

Southern
at

entered.

They
ti-eated have

have

more

than

heartily
manner

finding
the you and
as

me

engaged
"

the

ourselves
now,

very
you

cavalierly,
firm,
of

I have

described.
are man

*,"

and
an

we

if

continue

said the

he,

"

you

to

get through
to

excellent insolence.

opportunity
I will with hear He

humbling
quaint ac-

world,

for

appear
matters most

take

all

their

instantly
your from then

things coolly,
That,
me
so

of

course.

Sir
and
on

George
you shall

nation, determius

however, respect
friends

which
to ;

surprises having
in the

early
me

with many

you

is, your
you
are

morrow." and
soon

bade
on

here

prison,
to

farewell;
bed,
Madrid.
I
was

flinging

myself
the

my of

surrounded

by

people
Your

ministering
very
sei-vant

asleep in

prison

your

"A)mforts.

is

'230

CHAPTER
Ofalia" The Juez Carcel de la Corte The
"

XL.
in Prison

"

"

Sunday
"

"

Robber Dress
"

"

Father

and Son-

Characteristic Pure Castilian

"

Behaviour" Balseiro

Frenchman Cave
"

Prison Allowance

Valley of

the Shadow-

The

Robber

Glory.
So accomplished as a jurist fail to be aware cannot that, yourself to the laws of Spain, I,as a according could not be committed to foreigner, for the offence with which I had prison been charged, without previously being conducted before the captain-general of this royal whose dutyit is to procity, tect and see that the laws of foreigners, are hospi'cality not violated in their
"

Ofalia
manner

that quickly perceived of

a

the imprisonment
a

in British subject

had so as that which illegal attended my own lowed was to be follikely by rather serious consequences. Whether he himself had at all encouraged the corregidor in his behaviour towards me, it is impossible to say ; the is that he had not: the officer of his an was atter,however, for whose actions self himown [ persons."' appointing, and the government were Juez. to a cerI tain Come, come, Don Jorge, Sir Georgehad extent responsible. see what you are aiming at ; but listen to reason strance to you : I will not now alreadymade a very strong remonspeak and had even but as a friend who wishes as a juez, upon the subject, and who entertains a profound note gone so far as to state in an official you well, that he should desist from all farther reverence for the British nation. This communication with the Spanish is a foolishaffair altogether vernment go; I will not until full and ample reparathe chief acted somewhat denythat political tion had been aiforded me for the violence the information of a on hastily I had been subjected. to which worthy altogether person not perhaps that of credit. No great damage,however, Ofalia'sreply immediate sures meawas, should be taken for my liberation, has been done to you, and to a man of and that it would be my own fault if I the world like yourself, ture a littleadvenremained in prison.He forthwith orof this kind is rather calculated to dered a juezde la primera afford amusement else. than anything a instancia, kind of solicitor-general, Now what has hapto wait upon be advised, forget pened instructedto hear my acthat it is the partand count me, who was ; you know of the affair, and then to dismiss dutyof a Christian to forgive ; so, Don with an admonition to be cautious me this I leave advise Jorge, place you to for the futm-e. My friends of the emI dare say you are getting bassy, forthwith, free moment however,had advised me how to tired of it. You are this when act in such a case. a t to depart to once Accordingly, ings, ; repair your lodgthe second night the juez prisonment where I promise of my imon you that no one made his appearance at the shall be permitted to interrupt you for and summoned before him, the future. It is getting and the me late, prison, I went, but on his proceeding doors will speedily be closed for to quesprison tion refused to answer. Don la the night. Vanios, a me, I absolutely Jorge,

soned.

{)robability

"

deny your rightto put

to
no

any

tions ques-

casa,

la posada !
"

ever, howme," said I ; " I entertain, of feelings

or

to the disrespect

government

to

Juez ; but I have been

Caballero yourself, illegally impri-

" But Paul said unto them, beaten us openly uncondemned, beingEomans, and have cast do theythrust us into prison ; and now

Myself.

they have

232

THE
in people in tlie world
more

BIBLE
vain fond

IN
them.

SPAIJ^.

LCHAP.
the crowded
not
more

XL,

set of

Perhaps in
there

prison
than

than robbers

general,more

of

of Madrid

were

whenever a figure cutting they have an twenty who exhibited the dress which and of attracting I have the eyes opportunity^ attemptedto describe above; of their fellow creatures the these were by jentede reputacion, gallantry tip-top of their appearance. The famous Shep- thieves,mostly young fellows,who, in sportpard of olden times delighted thoughtheyhad no money of their owQ; ing and in prison a suit of Genoese when were velvet, supported by their majas he appearedin public and females of wore a a certain class, amigas, generally silver-hilted sword at his side ; whilst who foiTU friendships with robbers,and Vaux and Haywai-d, heroes of a later whose it is to administer glory and delight the dressed best the to the vanityof these fellows on men day,were Many of the Italian with the wages of their own shame and pave of London, bandits go splendidly These females abasement. decorated,and supplied the very Gypsy robber with the snowy has a feeling their cortejos linen, for the charms of dress ; the cap alone hands washed, perhaps, by their own of the Haram

Pasha,
band

or

leader which

of the infested of the

in the the would

waters

of the the

Manzanares, for

cannibal

Gypsy
towards

of display

Sunday, when
make

they

Hungary

the conclusion

themselves

admiring Observe, guilders. ye vain and frivolous,eyes upon the robbers vapouringabout how vanity in the court below. and crime harmonize ! The fond robbers this of are as Spanish Amongst those of the snowy linen cies spewho of display their attracted my brethren of other as most particularly father and son; the a and, whether in prisonor out of attention, lands, were foi-mer was a tallathletic figure of about are never so it, happy as when, decked of white linen,they thirty, out in a profusion a housebreaker, by profession and celebrated throughout loll in the sun, or walk jauntily ISIadrid for can up the peculiar which he exhibited and down. dexteritj^ Snow-white in his calling.He was in constitutes now linen, indeed, the principal for atrocious feature in the robber foprather murder a pery prison in the dead of night, in a of Spain. Neither coat nor jacket committed
is
worn

last century, was adorned with gold and jewelsto the value of four thousand

dressed a la maja, corridors would gaze with

their ance appearand from the

over are

the wide

the shirt, and

or

sleeves

of
a

house

at

Caramanchel,

in which

his

which

flowing, only
blue silk with

waistcoat of green
abundance

an

of silver buttons, which are for show than use, as the intended more is seldom buttoned. vest Then there
are

only accomplicewas his son, a child " under seven The apple," years of age. " had fallen far the Danes not as say,
from the
in every ;" the imp was respect the counterpart of the father,
tree

wide crimson head

Turkish
a

the

trousers, something after the around the waist is fashion; and about faja or girdle, is tied a gaudily coloured
from

though
the

in miniature.

He,

too,

wore

the robber shirt-sleeves, waistcoat with the silver buttons,the round his brow, and, robber kerchief robber

handkerchief

lightpumps This complete the robber's array. and dress is picturesque well enough, fine the weather to adapted sunshiny
of the

ridiculous enough, a the loom of Barcelona; and silk stockings knife in the crimson
the evidently who took chick of the all

long Manchegan
faja.
He
was

prideof the ruffian

father,

Peninsula; there is a dash of about it, however, hardlyin efieminacy

imaginablecare of this would dandle him gallows, his knee, and would on occasionally moustached take the cigar from his own
The the

keeping with
It mast

the

robber's

desperate lipsand
boy

trade. not, however, be posed supthat it is eveiy robber who can indulgein all this luxury; there are
various

insert it in the urchin's mouth. the pet of the court, for was
was
one

the father

of the valientes of feared his

and prison,

those who

enough,

grades of thieves,some with scarcely a rag to

poor
cover

prowess, and wished to pay their court the child, to him, were alwaysfondling

CHAP.

XL.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
had committed
acts

233

is this world of ours ! What an enigiwa and the Ho"W" dark mysterious are and of what is called crime sources virtue ! If tliat infant wretch become
a murderer eventually

ruffians who

of

like his

and atrocity sufficient to make cruelty the flesh shudder. But gravityand sedateness are the leading tics characterisof the Spaniards, and the very robber, father,

is he to blame ? alreadydressed

Fondled
as a

wlien he by robbers, except in those moments is engaged in liis occupation, and then robber, born of a

robber, whose
similar.

own

was history
. . .

perhaps
.

no

Is it right ?
man,

and sanguinary, pitiless, for is vrolfishly booty, a being eager

one

is

more

0,

man,

seek

not

to dive

into
evil ;

who who

can

be

courteous

and and affable,

the mystery of moral

confess the
a thyself

good
cast

and

worm,

and murmur earth, the dust, Jesus,Jesus What

most

with !

on thyself in thy lips

self himconducting and" decorum. sobriety for me, that my Happily,perhaps, with the ruffians of Spain acquaintance with

takes

in pleasure

with respect commenced and ended in the towns me surprised their good beabout which haviour I wandered, and in the was to the prisoners all things prisons into which I was cast for the ; I call it good when and when taken into consideration, are ing Gospel's sake,and that,notwithstandI compare it with that of the general I journeys, my long and frequent class of prisoners in foreign lands. never in contact with them on came They had their occasional bursts of the road or in the despoblado. wild gaiety, their occasional quarrels, The ill-conditioned being in most which theywere in the habit of settling the prison a was Frenchman, though of the interior court with in a corner He probably the most remarkable. their long knives ; the result not unabout was sixty years of age, of the middle stature, but thin and meagre, ^requently being death, or a dreadful in the face or the abdomen of his countrymen ; he had a gash ; but, like most nitely villanously infiformed to head, according upon the whole, their conduct was all the rules of croniology, to what might have been and his features superior full of evil expression. were He expectedfrom the inmates of such a no hat,and his clothes, place. Yet this was not the result of wore though in which or of the care coercion, were any particular appearance nearly new, exercised over them ; for perhaps coarsest description. He generally was kept in no part of the world 'are prisonersaloof from the rest, and would stand left to them^selves and so so utterly for hours together leaningagainstthe in the authorities walls with his as : arms Spain folded, glaring neglected about them what on was having no farther anxiety sullenly passingbefore than to prevent their escape ; not the He was him. of the professed not one attention being paid to their for his age valientes, slightest preventedhis moral stowedassuming so distinguished conduct,and not a thought bea character, and yet all the rest appearedto hold their health,comfort, or upon whilst within the him in a certain awe mental : improvement, perhaps they Yet in this prison walls. of Madrid, feared his tongue, which he occasionally exerted in pouringforth withering and I may say in Spanishprisonsin for I have been an inmate of those Avho incun-ed his displeasure. on curses general, than one, the ears of the visitor He more spoke perfectly good horrid and to my great sui-prise shocked with phemy blasare never cellent exSpanish, and in those of in which he in the as was obscenity, Basque, and other countries, of with habit more some Francisco, conversing ticularly parin civilized France; nor from the window of my are who, lolling and himself insulted,apartment, would his eyes outraged exchange jestsand he would witticisms he with the in the as be, to were assuredly prisoners look the courts from the upon of Bicetre. And the galleries yet in this
most

down

court

below, with

whom I

he

was

great

favourite.

of Madrid were prison characters desperate

some

of the

One
which

day

when

was

in the

to patio,

in

Spain;

I had

free admission

whenever

234

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

XL. [chap.

pleased, by permissionof the alcayde, " have you nothingto subsist upon beI went the prison allowance ? Have yon yojnd up to the Frenchman, who stood in his usual posture, leaningagainst no friends ? " the wall, and offered him a cigar. I Friends in this country ? you mock do not smoke it here one has no but will never friends,unless myself, me; do to mix the lower of I am them. classes one buy among burstingwith to present Spainunless you have a cigar hunger : since I have been here I have
"

sold the clothes off my The man occsaionally. back, that I glaredat me for a moment, and appeai'edmight eat, for the prison allowance ferociously to be on the point will not support nature, and of half of of refusing my offer with perhapsa hideous execration. that we are robbed by the Batu, as they I called the barbarian of a governor. it, however, pressing repeated my hand Les haillons which now cover against heart, me were whereupon suddenly my the grim feature relaxed, and with a given by two or three devotees who sometimes visit here. I would sell i genuine French grimace, and a low them if would fetch bow, he acceptedthe cigar, they exclaiming, aught. I have and for not Ah, Monsieur,pardon, of a few a want mats sou, c'estfaire I shall be garrotedwithin a crowns tropd'honneur a un pauvre diable comme tnoi" month unless I can escape, though,as | ' Not at all," I told you before, said I, I have done nothing, both are we in a foreign a mere fellow-prisoners land,and bagatelle ; but the worst crimes in Spainare poverty and misery." beingso we ought to countenance each other. I hope that whenever I have heard I have you speak Basque; need of your co-operation in this prison are you from French Biscay?
" " " " "

you
"

will afford it me."

"I the and I

see

am

Ah, Monsieur," exclaimed

but I have in

from Bordeaux, Monsieur lived much the Landes on

Frenchman in rapture, " vous Men avez raison ; ilfaut se donque les e'trangers nent la main dans ce de bar. .

pays

know

in a whisper, you. if you have any plan for escaping:, and Clear I have aii your requiremy assistance, add and and a knife at your service arm : you
"

hares.

Tenez,"he added

metier. travaillant a mon Biscay, by your look that you wish to history.I shall not tell it my It contains nothing that is remarkable.

See,
:

have

smoked

out

and that is more trust me, than could of these sacres you any gens ici" r ound his fellow at glancingfiercely

may

sommes

cr as

giveme another, you may dollar if you please, a nous eve's ici defaim. I would not

prisoners.
"

You the

appear to be

no

friend to

Spain

but I have a to a Spaniard, for respect your countrymen; I knowmuch of them ; I have them met at * Maida and the other place." say
"

much

" in his hissaid I. "I contory clude Nothing remarkable Spaniards," ! that you I have justice inor Why, greatlyerr, one experienced of his life, had it been written, For what have at their hands. chapter woiild have unfolded more of the wild ?" they immured you in this place "

and

Tour
such

rien du

line

bagatelle ; but

tout, c'est a dire pour what can you expect

For what hear
"

and what and

sea. man

wonderful
are

than

volumes fifty

of

in

general

called adventures

from

animals ?

are

? Did I not imprisoned Gypsyism and sorcery ? Perhaps you are here
"

you say for

escapes by land and A soldier ! what a tale could that have told of marches and retreats, battles lost and the the
won,
towns

hairbreadth

for your

nionsof opiseen

sacked,

?"
"

convents
mon

Ah,

Dieu,

non

je ne

suis pas
no ce

plundered ; perhaps he had flames of Moscow ascending

clouds,
and had in the
"

semblable betise. I have a mais opinions. Je faisois

homme

to

tried

his

with strength bitten

nature

sert," wintiyde-

n'importe ; je

me

trouve

creve ici, oiije

defaim."
"

pelted by the snow-storm, and by the tremendous cold of Eus*

I
a

am

sorry to

see

brave

man

in I
;

such

distressed condition," said

Perhaps

Waterloo.

CHAP.

XL.

J
could he
mean

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
of the other
at shall,

23.1

sia

and what in

by plying Any
the

gentlemenbeneath
time you desire

my

his trade

Biscay

and
a

Landes,
in those crime

care

any

it,

but that he had been of which wild regions,

robber

be

to wait permitted

the latter is more

apartment.
cause

infamous

for other

brigandage and

their

upon you in your I will even go so far as to irons, if irons they wear,

gave received them, and then once foldinghis arms, leaned back

otf in order that they ritory? to be knocked than any part of tlie French terremarkable in his of Nothing may partake your refection with that is seemly and convei n the world which comfort nient what ! then history history in the is remarkable but ? to contains aught that : gentleman tion quesevil and dollar : he I must object him the cigar I ; he is the most
more

disposedof
and would cion either

the whole
most

of this

family,
a

the wall, and appeared to sink I looked into one of his reveries. him in the face and spoke to him, but he did
me.

against ally gradu-

breed assuredly

fun-

in your
an

corridor, by
me

apartment or in the Cavalier, attempt to escape.

not

seem was

either to hear

or

see

His mind

in that dreadful

perhapswandering of the shadow, valley

whilst earth,
their way: there is no

accede to pesa, but I cannot with But to any request. respect your other gentleman, I shall be most happy,

the children of find living,occasionally

into which

Balseiro,who, though strange told of him, stillknoAvs how are things haviour beto comport himself,and in whose
e^en

that dreadful

regionwhere

there and formality

hope share your nothing lives but the undying worm. Cavalier." is the fac-simile of hell,and This valley had ocOf Balseiro I have already casion he who has entered it has experienced to speak in the former here on earth for a time what the spirits part of
water, where
of the condemned
are

dwelleth not, where

something both of shall this day politeness, if hospitality you desire it,

is

doomed

to

througii ages without end. He was executed about a month

The this time. confined was was

He was confined suffier this narrative. now in an in a story of the prison, upper

from
he

strong

room,

with had

several other been found

factors. male-

for which bagatelle

He

of guilty in

robbery and

murder

and assisting one Pepe Candelas, aiding

a a

by

the

concert

followingstrange device. In with two others,he hired a

in
an

thiefof

no

inconsiderable renown,

largehouse
the

town, to order tradesmen

which

unfrequented part of he would place

to

in open robbef y perpetrated desperate less no a daylight upon personage than

a Frenchwoman, queen's milliner,

the whom from

which articles,

were

convey to be paid for

valuable
on

which

they bound in her own shop, theytook goods and money

of five
or

attended paid for delivery ; those who with the loss of their their credulity
three had lives and property. Two or I wished much fallen into the snare.
to have

to the amount

six thousand

dollars. Candelas had the his crime on

who Balseiro, the
worst
was

ated alreadyexpibut scaffold,

to

said

be

by

far

had

some

conversation private and in

quence conse-

ruffian of the

two, had

by

with him

this

desperateman,
the
me

begged of
to

alcaydeto

allow

dine with

whereupon
so

in my own Monsieur his

ment apartBasom-

dint of money, which his coman rade ally did not possess, contrived to save his own life ; the punishmentof death,
to

which

he

was

sentenced, originally
to

for pierre,

I will take the governor,

of liberty real
name

having been commuted

hard with wicket
me,

twenty years'

callingthe

labour him of and

ha\Tng escaped my
his hat, and, with

memory, his usual

took

off' I visited

smile and

" in purest Castilian, bow, replied lish Engand I add I Cavalier, hope may is it that out friend, quite pardon me,

of Slalaga. presidio this worthy, and conversed time through the for some the dungeon. He recognised of the victory reminded me in the

of my

obtained over I had once him, skill in the in trial of the our to gratify respective your request, power crabbed Sevilla the fomided, I have no doubt, on the most Gitiino,at which
which

admirable

sentiments

of

was philosophy. bull-fighter umpire.

236

THE him telling in such

an a

BIBLE
was

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XL.

Upon
to see

my him

that I

sorry
plied remanner

twelve I had of the the

he situation,
no

frequently seen,

and fourteen years of age, whom and indeed conversed

on

that it was of

affair of

within as consequence, should be conducted to

six weeks the

he

with, in my walks Manzauares, which

time

the bank
was

their

presidio,favorite promenade.
a

These

children,

from few
"

which,
ounces

with

the

assistance of

guards,he
But
"

distributed amongst could at any time escape.

would I not

tlie

whither

Can

flee ? I you flee to the land

"

"

of which I am speaking, their education at a certain receiving seminary in INIadrid. Balseiro, manded. dewith the father's beingwell acquainted
at
were

affection for his He

more

determined children,
to

to

of the the

Moors," replied Balseiro,

or

to

iniike it subservient formed

nor

his

own was

rapacity.
neither

Englishin the camp of Gibraltar ; if I prefer I return cannot to this it, or, foro {citi/), and live as I have hitherto
the done, choring the gachos {robbing drid 'Mawhat hinder me? is to natives) ; is large, and Balseiro has plenty of friends, the lumias especially among

plan,which
to

less than
to restore

steal the
to

children,
ran-

and

not

them
an

their parent
i

until he had
som.

received

enormous

This
:

plan
two

was

carried into partly of the

execution well the

associates
to

Balseiro,
door of
were,

dressed, drove up

(women),"he

added

with

smile.

seminarywhere

the children

spoketo

of his ill-fated accomplice and, by means of a forgedletter, porting purCandelas ; whereupon his face assumed duced to be written by the father, inthe schoolmaster a horrible to permit the expression. " I hope he is in the robber. them for a country torment," exclaimed boys to accompany of the unrighteous is jaunt,as they pretended. About five friendship of long duration ; the two worBalseiro had a thies leaguesfrom Madrid had it seems in prison in a wild unfrequented tween quarrelled spot be; cave, Candelas having accused the other of the Escurial and a village called bad faith and an undue Torre Lodoues dren the chil: to this cave appropriation of the corpus delictiin to his own use were mained conducted, where they revarious robberies which in durance under the custody of mitted they had comnever

him

The

I cannot

in company. refrain

the from

two

accomplices;Balseiro

in

the

the relating this

the of Balseiro.
too liberation,

mean

time

subsequent historyof

Shortlyafter impatientto
his

my wait
a

own

purpose of the father.

a man

in Madrid for the remaining with conducting negociatious The

father,however,

was

until chance

{should afford him

presidio regaining

with some he, in company liberty, other convicts, broke throughthe roof took the most vigorous measures of the prison and escaped. He instantlyfor the recovery of his children. Horse resumed his former habits, and foot the sent out to were scour committing several both daring robberies, the
to

stead energj', and inof accedingto the terms of the in a letter, stantly inruffian,communicated

of considerable

within I call it

country, and
children been who had
were

in less than found

near

week

the

and
now

without
come

walls

of Madrid. may

his last, I
a

abandoned
taken

by

the cave, having their keepers,

his

hearingof the decided which had been resorted measures villany. Dissatisfied with the to ; theywere, however, speedily proceeds of street robbery and he determined arrested and identified by the boys as house-breaking, upon bold stroke, by which he a Balseiro, hoped their ravishers. perceiving sufficient to support that ]\Iadrid was to acquire money becoming too hot to him in some land in luxury and hold him, attemptedto escape, but foreign whether of Gibraltar or to to the camp splendour. of the land of the Moor, I know There was certain comptroller not ; be a the queen's household, Gabiria, was by name however, at a village recognised, and a man of immense in the neighboui'hood of Madrid, and a Basque by birth, this individual had forth witli conducted was : possessions beingapprehended, between the where he shortly handsome to two sous, boys, capital,
master

crime,

singular piece of

on fright

atrocious

CHAP.

XL.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

237

after

terminatod
with liis his

his
two

existence
associates

on

the Gaat

the him A

rape
at

of
once

the

children the

of of with

Gabiria the whom

at

made

scaffold,
biria
the and

pet

fraternity.
I
was

children which
at

being they
ease.

present

celebrated

robber,

ghastly
a

scene,

surveyed

subsequently spoke
his
:
"
"

imprisoned eulogy
in

Seville,

from Such
whom
so

chariot
was

their end

the

following

the

of

Balseiro,
not

of
said

manner

should
but Poor for

certainly
the affair !

have the

Balseiro
an

was

very
He

good
was

subject,
the
we

much,

of he

crabbed

and
of
never

honest

man.

head shall

Gitano.
that

wretch

acquired
is
many about the
a

our

family,
see

Don

Jorge again
parne
;

species
of

of the

immortality aspirations
whilst

which of

his sack

like
the

pity

that

he

object Spanish
in
the

did escape
;

not to

{inoneij),
the

and Don

thief,
pa

vapouring
in
the snowy

the

camp

of

Moor,

tio, dressed

linen

Jorge."

238

CHAPTER

XLI.
Visit
"

Maria Diaz

"

Priestly Vituperation
"

Antonio's

"

Antonio

at

Service

"

Scene

"

Benedict

Mol

"

Wandering in Spain
on

The

Four

Evangiles.
; there

"

Well,"

said I to INIaria Diaz,

the

him

there, el hribonazo
for safety

will be

third
"

morning after my imprisonment, no what do the people of Madrid he say to

?
"

Spainuntil he is
sent

hanged ;
hells,

ought

to be

to the four

this affair of mine

"

where

at his leisure

he

into I do not know what the peopleof his fatal gospels " in generalsay about it, probably the demons.' " I but said three words they do not take much interest in it ; Madrid
at indeed, imprisonments

might translate the languageoi

the

present

time
them

are

such
to

common

matters, that

to the alcaydc " relative s aid to the I, prison," children the of the used jargon by

of the

quiteindifferent to prison." Three words ! Don however, are in no Jorge; and priests, made what be not out of thi'ee commotion, and confess that they slight may have committed an imprudentthingin words ? You have lived amongst us to if you think we require causing you to be arrested by their little purpose friend the corregidor of Madrid." than three words to build a system more the How is that ? with : those three about I inquired. Are words ficient sufafraid their friend and their that will be thieves were quite they tongue itto be reported ? to cause throughout punished Maria ; Madrid that you had tamperedwith Not so, Seiior, replied had learnt their language, the thieves, slightgriefindeed would it cause peopleseem
; the

be

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

them,
which

however he had

great the
involved

trouble
on

in

and

had

written

book

which

was

to

the Spain, open to the English all the of people gates of Cadiz,giveMendizabal account ; for this description have no affection, and to Don and would not care if church plateand jewels, all their friends were hanged,provided Martin Luther the archiepiscopal lace paof Toledo." themselves they escaped. But they say that they have of rather a acted imprudentlyin Late in the afternoon in the inasmuch I to as as was sending you sitting prison, by gloomy day, had lotted althe have which an so doingthey alcayde givenyou apartment tunity oppordoor. of carrying I heard the of into a a plan me, rap at yours himself their
overturn

execution. say him

'

This

fellow

is

bribou,'
ing tamper-

"

Who
mon

is that ? "

I exclaimed.
a

"

Oest

they,
their

'

and has commenced

,

mot,

maitre,"cried

well

known

with the

in walked and presently prisonerstheyhave taught voice, which he already Buchini, dressed in the same language, when I first introduced him

Antonio
as style

of the a son as well as if he were speaks As soon out he will as he comes prison. which will be a thieves' Gospel, publish affair than the still more a dangerous for the are few, but Gypsy one, Gypsies the thieves !
woe

der, to the rea-

namely, in
faded French with
a

handsome

but hat

rather

surtout, vest, and

diminutive
a

loons, pantain
one

hand, and
and
"

holding in the other

cane.
"

long

is

us

we

shall all be what

own.

slender Bon

Lutheranized.
It

What

infamy,
trick of his
to

! a was rascality He was alwayseager and

now,

maitre, jour,mon around Greek; then glancing

he you
so

said the
the apartment,

get into prison,

we

continued,
well

"

am

gladto

find

iii evil

hour,

have

sent

lodged.

If I remember

240

THE
a

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
Antonio.

[chap. xli.
"

he screamed, making
at me

desperate lunge
were

Mais

ce qu'est

; but

ere

the words

? Greek, full of honour and sensibility mouth, his foot slipping on Sceira cooks of the have and he fell forward with great violence at Would you Stanibul submit to be insulted here in his full length, flew out and his weapon of counts rushing the into of his hand, comme sons une Spainby fleche. You of bread? manchets the with should have heard the outcry which ensued temple there was maitre, you are too terrible confusion : Non, non, mon a and what is more, the count noble to require that, lay upon the floor to all appearance
"

out of his the pease,

voudriez,

mon

maitre

Am

que vous I not

just. But we will talk of other not alone ; however, continuing busilyemployed. things. Mon maitre, I came in the corridor waiting They at last raised him up, and assisted there is one now him till he came to himself, though anxious to speakto you.
stunned
;

took

no

notice,

too

He asked very pale and much shaken. for his sword : all eyes were turned now and I that tack saw a general atme, upon took I meditated. was a Suddenly

Who Ml/self." Antonio.

mon
"

is it ?
whom

One
in

you have met,

and

maitre,

various

strange

places.
who Mijself."Ent Antonio.
"

largecaserolle
various eggs
out
at

from

the

fire in which

is it ?
will
come

were

frying ; this I held

One

who
so

to

at it along strange end, for length, peering of all the Swiss,he were inspect-most extraordinary ing curiously schatz grdber. of Der Saint it ; my right foot advanced and the James, Mol ? 'Not Benedict other thrown back as far as possible. Ml/self." herr" lieher said Benemein dict, All stood still, that Yaiv, doubtless, imagining, which door the stood I was about to perform some pushingopen grand it is myself. I met Herr Anton and so I was operation, : for suddenly ajar ; in in the street, that you were and hearing the sinister leg advancing,with one with him to visit you." I came rapidcouj-)de pied,I sent the caserolle this place, in of all that the name And and its contents flying over Myself. my head, so how is it that I see you in is singular, that they stmck the wall far behind me. Madrid This was to let them tnow that I had again? I thoughtthat by this

arm's
as

it is written.

The

my

arm

if I

"

"

"

"

broken

my the

staff"and feet ;

had

shaken

the the

time

you

were

returned

to

your

own

so country. casting upon Benedict. Fear not, lieber herr, I of the Sceirote peculiar glance in good time ; but thither shall cooks when return feel themselves insulted, tliey with and coach. but mules not and extending my foot, on mouth on is schatz still The to be either side nearly far as the ears, I waiting as yonder, have I better and took down now hope my haversac and departed, dug up, of friends, of than ever ; plenty plenty singingas I went the song of the ancient how I See you not am dressed, Demos, who, when dying, asked money.

dust off my
coimt

"

for his supper, lave his hands

and
:

water

wherewith

to

lieber herr ? And much

his habiliments verily

more

were

of

'O 7)Xios i^acriAeve, kI 6 Ari/.'.os SiardCei. any which TraiSta V rh vephuxj/co/ud 2u/JT", va /jlov, occasions.

respectable appearance
he His of had
coat

than

(fiaTairoxp^.
in this manner, mon the house of the Count of And And MijseJj.
"

which

were

former on sported and pantaloons, lightgreen, were nearly he stillwore

an

maitre,I
* * *

left

new.

On

his head

Anwas

*."

dalusian

hat, but
nor

fine account your

was

you have
own fession, con-

neither old and glossy, staff'which James and bamboo whilst in his

the present one shabby,but fresh altitude of of the

at

and
;

given of yourself; by
your Were behaviour

of immense I had

cone

most

cious. atro-

hand, instead Oviedo,

he

ragged
Saint
a

it not for the many

marks

observed
now

of courage and fidelity which you have exhibited in my service, from I would this moment hold no farther communication with you.

carried

huge grim head cut riously

rattan, surmounted
of either
out
a

by

the

bear

or

lion, cu"

of

pewter.

CHAP.

XLI.J

THE

BIBLE
a

IN

SPAIN.
and strength,
not

241

" liave all the appearance of You treasure-seeker returued from a successful

"

I exclaimed. expedition," high road Or rather,"interrupted tied I Antonio, as

one

"

of

who

has ceased
now

to

trade

on

own

bottom, and
at

sures treagoes seeking

prising
and
was

I strode fur\\ai-d,

long before I reached the ; and then I beggedand betbest could,until I reached

his

Madrid."
"

the cost and expense of others." I questioned the Swiss minutely cerning conhis adventures since I last saw
at Oviedo
to

has befallen you since you I inquired. "Did Madrid?" the find treasure in the streets ? you On a sudden Bennet became resei-ved
reached
"

And

what

him, when
my
answers me
a

I left him

route

to Santander,

From

pursue his

and

which taciturn,

the

more

surprised

that gathered in

he had

followed

he me, as, up to the present moment, had at all times been remarkably municative com-

to the latter place ; he was,

however,

with

respect to his afiiairs

the journey, and prospects. From what I could performing from hunger and privation. learn from his broken and inuenliints At Santander he could hear no tidings dos,it appeared that,since his arrival of me, and by this time the trifle which at Madrid, he had fallen into the hands he had received from me was completely of certain people who had treated him of exhausted. He now with and thought making kindness, providedhim both

long time beingweak

afraid to with money and clothes ; not from diswas intereste the disturbed but having through provinces, motives, howevei-, " lest he should fall into the hands of the an They expect eye to the treasure. he conceived w^ho shoot from me," said the Swiss Carlists, might great things

his way

into

France, but

venture

him

him at No one relieving spy. and he Santander, departed begged his in found tillhe himself some part way
as
a

knew. Aragon,but where he scarcely said Benis new friends were he either knew not My miserywas so great," that 1 lost that they Oh, or would not tell me, save net, nearly my senses. the horror of wandering about the sawere He said somevage thing peoplein power. hills and wide plains of Spain, about Queen Christina and an without and without hope ! oath which he had taken in the premoney sence I became when I Sometimes of a bishop the crucifix and desperate, on found the four Evangiles." I thought that myself amongst rocks and barafter his head was turned,and forbore having tasted no rancos, perhaps tioning. quesfood from sunrise to sunset, and then I Just before taking his departure, would raise my staff towards the sky he observed Lieber herr, pardon lieber and shake it, herr for not being quitefrank towards Gott, me crying, ach lieber herr Gott,you must I owe so helpme much, but I you, to whom
"

of

Erovided

after all, it would have perhaps, been more to have dug up the profitable treasure without their assistance, always that were possible."Who

"

and

"

"

"

now

or

never

; if you

tarryI

am

lost ;

dare not ; I
It

am

not
an a

now

my

own

man.

! And help me now, now I was ravingin this manner, once, when methought I heard a voice,nay I am low I heard it, from the holsure sounding

you

must

is,moreover,
to

evil

times
once
a

say

word

before you
man

have secured

all about treasure it. There was

thing at

rock, clear and strong ; and it it is not cried, Der schatz, der schatz, yet dug up ; to Madrid, to INIadrid.The
of
a
'

dug deep into the

at

in my own country who earth until he arrived

way And
more

to

the schatz

then the rushed how

through Madrid.' of the schatz once thought

is

a copper vessel which contained a schatz. Seizingit by the handle, he merely exclaimed in his transport,' I have it ;' that was enough, however :

into my mind, and I resank the kettle, flected down thoughthe handle That was all happy I might be, could I remained in his

grasp.

but

dig up

the

schatz.

No

more

ging beg-

he

then ; no more wanderingamidst and deserts ; so iiorrid mountains I and my body and brandished my staff, full of new and surmy limbs became

got for his trouble and digging. Farewell,lieber herr, I shall speedily
ever

be sent back to Saint James to the schatz ; but I will visit you

dig up
ere

go

"

farewell."
B

242

CHAPTER

XLII.

Liberation
ilome
"

from

Prison
of

Light
"

Resolution
"

The

Nature The Greels Apology Human Interview An Archbishop of Toledo Treasure Foreign Language" Benedict's Farewell
" " "

The

s
"

Return Stones Hunt

at

"

Church of Price
"

of A

Scripture
"

"

"

Compostelia

Truth

and

Fiction.

in this respect, differently am Madrid, sayingthat herein I had possessed harboured acted or or discreetly laudably any pride, ; but I was the who had from rancour receive to averse against people any party money the manner in such as those of which the Spanishgoto durance, me consigned vernment which I was restored to liberty would was composed, peoplewhom doubt have been highly gratifyingI confess I heartily and I was no despised, the afford to those evil passions them to an unwilling opportunity government ; of saying that after theyhad imprisoned having acknowledged,by a document transmitted and without a to Sir George, that I had an Englishman unjustly, been incarcerated on insufficient grounds, cause, he condescended receive to money and that no stigmaattached itself to me In a word, I confess at their hands. from the imprisonment I had undergone weakness willingthat my own ; I was the time fray they should contiiiue my debtors, and to desame agreeing ; at all the expenses have littledoubt that they had not the I had to which been subjected the progress to remain so: they throughout slightest objection this affair. and of laughed kepttheir money, probably It moreover its willingnessin their sleeves at my want of common expressed the individual dismiss to owing to sense.
RE3IAINED

about

three "weeks

in the

acted very
I

of prison

and

then left it.

If I

and

far from

whose

information

I had

been

first
or

rested, ar-

The my

heaviest loss which

could

resulted from
no

namely,
officer who in had the

the

corchete

police

and confinement,

for which

demnificat in-

visited me in my apartments Calle de Santiago, and behaved himself in the manner which I have described in a former chapter. I

was received,

in the death faithful attended

be either offered or tionate of my affec-

and

Basque Francisco,
me

during the declined,however, to avail myself of whole time of my imprisonment, caught : this condescension of the government, the pestilential typhus or gaol fever, I was informed that which was then ragingin the Carcel de more as especially the individual in question within a had a wife la Corte,of which he expired and family, who, if he were disgraced,few days subsequent to my liberation. reduced would be at once His death occurred I late one to want. evening; considered the next morning,as I was moreover that, in what he lyingin heA. had done and said, he had on probably ruminating my loss,and wondering would orders which nation my next of what servant private onlyobeyed some
who, having
,

he had

received

; I therefore

gave freelyforretain his it is

be, I heard
that of
a

noise which

seemed
at

to be

him,

and if he does not

fault of mine.

situation at the present moment,

no certainly

person boots or cleaning

in employedvigorously

shoes, and
in
some

intervals

strange
of

discordant
a

voice

singing
unknown

I likewise

refused to accept any for my expenses, which It is my that probable

pensation comwere

snatches I rang
"

song

: wondering who language

it could b^

considerable.
nersons

many

the bell.

in

situation woiild have

Did

you

mon ring,

mattre?'

saW

CHAP.

XLII.]

THE

BIBLE
one

IN

SPAIN.
to

243

at tliedoor with Antonio, appearing

in Older

avoid

land. rupture "with Eng-

of his
"

arms

deeplyburied

in

boot.

This but views

"

did certainly

said ring,"

I,

"

I scarcely expected that you the summons." have answered

"

would
"?

as

termined denow they were gratify, by tliwartmgmy much as possible.I had an dislike
to

interview

with in my

OfaUa
mind

on

the

subject

Mais

poiirquoi iion, tnoii

"

maitre

uppermost
morose

cried you sieur

Antonio. but

Who

should

serve

and

him ; I found " will It be for snappish.

"

noAv

myself? est mort Fraiigois

soon
as

N'est pas que le did I not i And of his

"

your
w^are

said he ; interest to be still," ! you have already thrown

corte

bethe

say,

as

I heard
to my

departure,whole
man so

into confusion ;

beware, I
not
cape es-

I shall return
"

functions chez
other you

repeat; another
"

time
"

you

may

Monsieur niaitrc.

Georges?

I suppose you had no liud on that account Au

"

ment, employcame." it is
a

plied, easily." Perhaps not," I reand perhaps I do not wish it ; thingto be persecuted pleasant

take the I now mon maitre," replied for the Gospel'ssake. contraire, tempt of inquiring I had justengagedmyself liberty whether, if I atthe Greek, God. I word of circulate the f rom to of of the Dul^e the house P'rias, at am to be interrupted." Of course," "whom I was to receive ten dollars per
" "

month

more

than

your
"were

worsliip ; but
without
a

I shall accept from on hearingthat you

exclaimed such

Ofalia ; circulation."
what

"

the church
"

forbids
the
"

I shall make
" say ?

told the Duke,

that night, here
"

domestic, I forthwith late at though it was

not

attempt, however,"
you
mean

I exclaimed.

Do

you
"

demanded

he would

suit me,

and

I am." I shall not receive you in this manner," to the Duke, said I ; " return

gating Ofalia, archinghis eyebrows and elonYes." I continued, his mouth.

"

I shall make

the

attempt in every

in Spain to which I can trate." penevillage for your behaviour, request apologise Throughout my residence in Spain way ; and your dismission in a regular I the party from which tlie clergy to partwith were then, if his grace is willing the the be will most opposition as experienced strongest case, ; probably you, that the at their instigation of your and it was I shall be happy to avail myself services." adopted those government originally which sive It is reasonable to expect that after measures preventedany extensacred volume of the circulation been to an ment imprisonhaving subjected themselves which enemies through the land. I shall not detain my of my narrative with retlecture the course I should in fuadmitted to be unjust, which liberal tions treatment as to the state of a church, more experience be it foixnded had to which on their hands that than at pretends they though of would the arcls The sole hitherto adopted tow me. light yet keep Scripture, if all time from was mankind, possible. Scripture objectof my ambition at this that she is not is fiilly But Home aware to procure toleration for the sale of the and having no Gospel in this unhappy and distracted a Christian church, kingdom, and to have attained this end desire to become so, she acts prudently from the eyes of her followers I would not only have consented to 1 in keeping in succesI the page which would reveal to them sion twenty such imprisonments Her agents I had undergone, the truths ot Christianity. that which as but "would gladly have sacrificed life and minions Spainexerted throughout to render my to the utmost itself. I soon however, that themselves perceived, and to vilify I was carceration; inlabours humble to abortive, likely gainnothingby my to 1 was the contrary, I had the w^ork which on attempting and natical fathe become All of dislike disseminate. to an ignorant object personal were the government since the termination clergy(thegreat majority) those ho and all of this affair, which it was w were I to it, probable opposed had never anxious tc keep on good terms with the been before ; their pride and loud in their cry humbled of liome were -were court by the concessions vanity There wliich they had been obliged it to make against "was, however, one
.

24-1

THE

BIBLE
it is

IN
his

SPAIN.

[chap. xlii.

section of the
true, rather

clevgy,a

small one,

Tinearlyhistorybeing entirely

the
no

towards disposed favourably circulation of the Gospel, thoughby

known I

to

me.

nand, At the death of Ferdiwas

he believe,

Bishop of

Mai

a small inclined to make insignificant see, of veiy any particular lorca, which sacrificefor the accomplishment scanty revenues, perhapshe had such as to exchange for one no end: these Avere more of such an objection is is which it that however, liberalism, supposed wealthy; probable, professed means

to

mean

to adopt disposition

any tlie few

reform which weal

both in civil and church

matters,
to
a

may be deemed conducive Not of the country.

proveda devoted sei-\'ant of the a consequently supporter of Avould h e have continued legitimacy, to the day of his death to fillthe episcopal Pope,and

had he

were amongst the Spanishclergy

chair of Mallorca ; but he was supporters clared desaid be a liberal, and the Queen to at least or of this principle, doubtless for themselves so, some Regont thoughtfitto bestow upon him

dignityof Archbishop of Toledo, by which he becanie the head of the The Pope,it is true, hoped, Spanishchurch. had refused to ratify the nomination, and a pure love of the from conviction, which these all on account were itself. good Catholics Amongst principle
their the
own

advancement, hoping to

turn

the

of the times to their own spirit it is to be profit ; others,

sonal per-

to be

found,at

the time

of which

am

were

still bound

to

consider

him

as

several speaking,

bishops.It is worthy

of remark, however, that of all these to the his office, not but owed not one and all, Pope, who disowned them one

Bishopof Mallorca, and not as Primate of Spain. He however received the

revenues

belongingto the see, which, though only a shadow of what they stillconsiderable, the professedoriginally but to the Queen Regent, were, were all Spain. and lived in the primate's head of liberalism throughout palace at that men bishop not archIt is not, therefore, Madrid, so that if he were surprising de jure,he was what thus circumstanced should feel rather many than not to countenance people would have considered much disposed any de facto. scheme at all calculated to or better, measure arclibishop this of liberalism ; that favour the advancement a Hearing personage was tion who was the circulasaid such an one was and surely personalfriend of Ofalia, entertain a very I derived but of the Scriptures. to high regard for little assistance from their good will, him, I determined upon paying him a tained visit,and one however, supposing that they enteraccordingly moraing betook myself to the palacein which took any as some, they never he resided. I experienced lifted up their voices decided stand, nor no difficulty in obtaining in a bold and positive ing denouncwith an interview, beingforthmanner, would conducted the conduct of those who to his presence by a withhold kind of footman, an Asturian, the lightof Scripture from common the world. At one whom time I hoped by I believe, I found seated on a their to instrumentality accomplish stone bench in the entrance-hall. When in Spainin the Gospelcause I was much introduced,the Archbishopwas ; but I was seated behind a table in a large soon undeceived, and became alone, convinced that reliance on what they apartment, a kind of drawing-room; would effect was like placing he was in a black casthe hand sock dressed, plainly of reed which will and staff his finger, rate lacesilken on a on only cap; the flesh. More than once some however, glittered a superbamethyst, of them sent messages to me, expressive the lustre of which was dazzling. truly He rose of their esteem, and assuring how for a moment I advanced, me as and motioned me much the cause of the Gospelwas dear to a chair with his received an intimation I even hand. He to their hearts. might be about sixty years of would be that a visit from me tall, age ; his figurewas very evidently agreeableto the Archbishopof Toledo, but he stoopedconsiderably, from and the pallid the Primate of Spain. hue of feebleness, Of tliis I can say but little. ill health overspread his emaciated personage

CHAP.

XLII.]
When he had

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
;

245

features.
to be
"

reseated himself,

he droppedhis head, and

on looking

Archbishop of Toledo that you would appeared perhaps

nor

do neither choice

they thought good

of you,
as

the table before him.

harm, and

made do

am

I suppose your lordship knows who silence. ? " said I,at last breaking

they sometimes

The

wards Archbishop bent his head tosituation ; no what right shoulder, in a someYou said but thing. noequivocal manner, yours.

in my own primates You do country, for your incapacity. in not seem happy present your veiy

the

very
were

easy
more

stall this

of

comfortable,

"

am

he

whom

the

Manolos

of

el Ingles; I Jorgito w hither of fear then of I turn No out sublimate. am prison, justcome for smothered in A siesta Lord's bed. sent was circulating being my your in of is when is not subject a pleasant one Spain. thing Gospel this kingdom the The the sudden be disturbed by to same Archbishop made whether equivocalmotion with his head, but fear.' I wonder they have stillsaid nothing. poisoned you already,"I continued, I was informed that your lordship half aloud,as I kept my eyes fixed on his countenance, which desirous of seeing was methought was me, and on that I have paid you this visit." account becomingghastly. I did not send for you," said the Did you manded speak,Don Jorge? dehis head the Archbishop, suddenlyraising Archbishop. call Don
out
" ' " " " "

Madrid

the poor Bishop you were could enjoyyour puchera ; then without fear that the salt would of Mallorca

I trow, when

with
"

look. sfcirtled
not

"

That

is

fine brilliant

on

your

: however, lordship's hand," said I. Perhaps was, understand that fond of brilliants, You Don are given to my presence would be agreeable tures Jorge," said the Archbishop,his fea; but as that does to be the case, I will leave." ! not seem so am brightening up ; vaya Since you are come, I am very glad I ; they are pretty things. Do you understand them ? to see you." I am hear said I said to it," saw do," a I, I, and I never glad very and finer brilliant I than since am cepted exone reseating myself; your own, well talk of an allas here, we may ; it belongedto an acquaintance He did not important matter, the circulation of of mine, a Tartar Khan. the Scripture. Does your lordship bear his it however see on finger, ; it stood end in which the frontlet of desirable his it an where so horse, any way by ? shone He like a star. called it Daoud might be broughtabout No," said the Archbishopfaintly. Scharr, which, beinginterpreted, meanDocs not eth light think that ofwar." your lordship would said the Archbishop, a knowledge of the Scripture Vaya ! work in tliese inestimable benefit how ! I am extraordinary glad very realms ? fond of Don are brilliants, Jorge. you
" " " " " " " " " " *' " " " "

I don't know." reminds that I Speakms: of horses, me Is it probablethat the government horseback. have frequently seen on you culation to the cirVaya ! how you ride ! it is dangerous may be induced to consent ? to be in your way" " " How should I know ? and the Is fond of equestrian lordship
" "
" "

your
no

Archbishoplooked
I looked in the there

me

in the face. bishop of the Arch-

exercise ? "
"

face

By
like the

means,

Don

of was an : expression in it, which almost amounted helplessness to dotage. Dear me," thoughtI,
" "

not

of We

church I

horses ; it is not to ride on

;

Jorge ; I do the practice

horseback.
the

mules prefer
:

they are

quieter
so

whom

have ?

come

to man,

on

an

errand
are

animals
"'

fear

horses,they kick
horse
a

like mine
fitted to and

Poor

you

not

violently."
The kick of
a

playthe part of Martin Luther, least of all in Spain. I wonder

to

is death," said
I
am

I,

"

if it touches

vital part.

why your friends selected you

be

opinioa not, however, of your lordship's

246

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
betake

[chap. xi"tl
lages myself to the vilplainsof dusty Spain. Al

with may

respect
a

to

mules:
on
"

a a

and good ginete stable,

however when
a

retain his seat mule

horse !

and

but vicious, false mule believe however As

vaya

tira por detras,I do not that the Father of the Church

' Ride forth because campo, al campo : and thy of righteousness, of the word right hand shall show thte terrible

himself could

book you might sell in a every single " in the I miderstaud ? am to dispose city, despacho you may " hundred No se,"said the Archbishop,again of one amongst the villages, the right always provided bending his head towards you offer them cheap ;

with

keepthe saddle a moment, sharphis bit." "And I was going away, I said, ship, the to Gospel, respect your lordwhat

things.'I
"

Your

and allow

Maria." will ride forth, do better ; no can worship here to tell you, that for me

shoulder,whilst
their thus
"

his

features

resumed
with the

former

vacant

expression.And

is rather scant. for in the country money Vaya ! should I not know ? am I not villana from the a villager myself, Sagra? Ride forth, therefore : your in the stall, horses are neighing as your worship says, and you might almost
a

my interview Archbishopof Toledo. It appears

to

terminated

me," said I
"

to

INIaria

Diaz, on
Co me,

it appears ; that if the Gosmia, Marequita

home returning

have

added

that

the Senor

Antonio

is

pei in
until

He Spain is to wait for toleration neighing in the house. says he he bishops has nothing account to do, on which Chese liberal bishopsand archand is unsettled. forward in dissatisfied half, beits come once more boldly
to

it will hcve

tarry a considerable

He
more

finds fault with

time."
"

with particularly

but everything, This myself.

worship's nion," opimorning I saluted him, and he made in a answered but twisted his mouth a fine thing, me no reply, in this land of it would be to wait till they exmanner erted truly, very uncommon themselves in its behalf. Ca ! Spain." the idea makes smile : was A thought strikes me," said I ; me your worship ever innocent enough to sup; why you have mentioned the Sagi-a pose should that they cared one tittleabout the I commence labours not my of that district ? are Gospelor its cause ? Vaya ! the}amongst the villages Your and had only self-interest true priests, worship can do no better," in view in their advances is just Maria the harvest The to you. replied ; find and and will the Father disowns over them, there, people Holy the}' you with leisure would now fain, unemployed, by awaking his fears comparatively and jealousy, bringhim to some terms ; to attend and listen to you ; and if you but let him once acknowledge them, follow my advice, you will establish and see whether at Villa Seca,in the house of yourself they would admit you
I
am

much

of your INIaria;

"

"

"

"

"

"

to

their

palacesor
:
'

hold

with

you

Forth

where any intercourse my fathers, husband. with the fellow,' lord and
not
a

at

present lives my

they would
Lutheran church know Don
"

? ?

' say ; vaya ! is he Is he not an enemy

Villa thence Senor

Seca in the

to Go, therefore, first place, and from

to the

Ala

horca, d la horca

'

family better than Jorge." said It is useless tarrying,"

this

you I
"

do,
thing, no-

can sallyforth with the you Antonio excursions. upon your will husband pany accomPeradventure, my

you ; and if so, you will find him useful. The laighly people of Villa

Seca are ci^dl and courteous, your worship; however, can be done in Madrid. address when I cannot sell the work at the despacho, a foreigner, they and I have just received intelligence they speak to him at the top of their that all the copies exposedfor sale in voice and in Gallegan." the libraries in which the

Spain My
my

I visited

different parts of have been questrated seof

"

"

order of the government. resolution is taken : I shall mount

by

I exclaimed. ! Gallegan few words understand all a They which have acquired Gallegan, they In
"

from

which horses,

are

neighingin

the

ally occasionmountaineers, who the han-est. assistthem ui cutting the

248

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

LCHAP.

XLII.

pealed.
from
were

The their drawn of

whole

populace
a

thronged
troops
the up
to
pectation ex-

The

political
did
not

opponents
allow
to
so

of

the

ment governan

houses,
up all in
was

thousand square,

favourable

the

opportunity
shafts
were

escape

for The

launching
Moderados
for the

the

wound

the

of

ridicule.
in the

highest
its at
course

pitch.
to

A church the

procession
of San

directed

taunted
and wafted

cortes

their

the
was

Roque
and the the

avarice
press the James.
"

credulity,
on

whilst

liberal

its

head

captain-general
in behind his hand

its

wings

through
at

Spain
Saint

the

Swiss,

brandisliing
close

story

of

the

treasure-hunt

magic meiga,
whom

rattan,
the the

walked

Gallegan
treasure-seeker

witch-wife,
had the search up break
enters

by
been
;
merous nu-

After

all,
said

it

was

trampa
my bottom in of the

of

Don

Jorge's,"
"

one

of the

enemies.
of

originally
masons

guided

in

That

fellow

is which learn

at

half

brought
to

the up

rear,

the

picardias Eager
to
to

happen
the fate friend In his in
me,

Spain."
Swiss, Romero,
he
to

bearing ground.
church, march,
passage.
"

implements
The

the the I
at

procession
pass

wrote

my

old

Rey
answer

they they

through
themselves

it in looks

in
a

solemn vaulted

Compostella.
"

find
The

states

saw

the he
sent

Swiss for sake

prison, craving
my

Swiss
said the he

around,
"

which

place
for bore him? from It road."

Dig

here,*'
said

suddenly.
The up,

Yes,

assistance,
which I

the
to

of

the But

friendship
how could after
not

dig

here,"
the and

meiga.
is
broken arises

masons

you. He
was

labour,

floor

"

rible hor-

help

speedily
I know

fetid
;
no

odour

removed
was

Saint is said

James,
that he

Enough
and Swiss
was

treasure to

found,

whither.
on

disappeared

my turned forthwith

warning
out

the

unfortunate He the

the Truth

but

too

prophetic. flung
James,
who into amidst would limb.

is
Where shall

sometimes
in
we

stranger
the find whole

than

seized
of of
torn

and

fiction.
romance

cycle
more

of

horrid
the have

prison

Saint

anything
than Benedict the

execrations

thousands,
him
not

wild,

grotesque,

and

sad,
of

easily

gladly
The affair

limb

from

authenticated
the

history
of

Mol,
?

did

terminate

here.

treasure-digger

Saint

James

249

i
X^'il.a Seca
Flower
"

CHAPTER

XLIII.

Moorish of

House The Old

"

The

Puchera of Azeca" The

"

The

Rustic

Council

"

Polite Ceremonial
the Field" the

"

The

Spain"
"

Bridge

The

Huined and

Castle"
"

Taking

Demand

for the Word

The

Peasant"

Curate

lilacksmith

of Clieapness

Scriptures.

Tt

was

one

of

the I
ever

most

hot fiercely the sun, The Seca. amounted the consist of and

by
as

who kind of steward, the the which grain from the tenants

days

in which

braved Villa have

itschambers
rent

stored up in he received and

when I arrived heat in the shade

at

at

must

who about bank

farmed

villanos district. surrounding

at the

least to

one

hundred

and degrees,
to

The

stands village
a

distance of

entire atmosphereseemed At a !flick, 'ringflame. six leaguesfrom ILeganez,

place called
Madrid,

quarter of a leaguefrom the of the Tagus, which even here,in

the heart of

to Toledo, we diverged not the highway, bending our course the appearance of small islands, towards the south-east. We !seemingly assume wood. rode over what called plainsin and are covered with trees and brushare derives its supply The village Spain,but which, in any other part of from the river, be called undulating of water entirely having Ithe world, would of its own such least is poat The crops of corn as and broken gi'ound. none table ; the of wells its all had water being alreadydisappeared, jaud barley ; is which it last on discoverable account brackish, bly probabeing [the vestiges termed Villa Seca, which here and there a few sheaves, which signifies inhabitants "the The the labourers were dry hamlet." occupiedin removI have been in Moors ; said their the to are originally ling to villages. garners certain it various that customs called The could be are is, scarcely country observable here highly favourable to naked, exhi;beautiful, being perfectly It such a supposition. a Amongst others, bitingneither trees nor verdure. I

[ from I

about

half way

the

is a beautiful stream, Spain, however, on account of navigable, which in many sand-banks, places

jwasnot, however,

without

its preten-

very

curious for the

a

one

it is deemed of Villa Seca

mous infato go

isions to grandeur and magnificence, like every part of Spain. The most across

woman

to be seen or market-place, two prominentobjectswere huge cal- there,though iheyhave no hesitation in the streets in showing themselves rather cleft in carious hills, or one i and lanes. A deep-rooted ists exwhich towered up on high; the hostility itsvain, between the inhabitants of this place summit of the nearest beingsurmounted and of a neighbouring those that village, by the ruins of an ancient castie, of Villaluenga. About hour past called Vargas ; theyrarely an speakwhen There and reached Villa Seca. never we noon theymeet, intermarry. of the is tradition We ing containthat found it a large a people village, vague and old the latter hundred about seven Christians, are inhabitants, place that these neighand it is highly probable surrounded bours by a mud wall. A of stood in the were originally widelydifferent plaza,or market-place, midst,one side of which is occupied ticularly by blood ; those of Villa Seca beingof parwhilst the what is called a palace, dark complexions, a clumsy quadrangular and fair. indwellers of Vargas are light of two belonging stories, building Moor and feud between old the the Thus noble family, lords to some in the teenth nineof the neighbouring still is desoil. It was Christian kept up serttd,however; being only occupied century in Spain.

250

THE
in

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
of
a

CHAP.

XLIII.

Drenched
from Maria
our

which perspiration,

f"fll coolness rushed

brows

the door of Juan

Diaz.
to

like rain,we arrived at Lopez,the husband of man, tention Having heard of our inpecting ex-

draught of air which an through. He was elderly of about sixty, with nothing remarkable
which in his appearance latter were
or

his features,

several us were good-humoured. There was genuine peoplewith him, amongst whom mensely imthe surgeon of the place, Moorish a tall and house, consisted only of one Alavese It an was however, bulky by man, amply large, story.
to

he was a visit, pay him welcomed us, and cordially

a

placid and

his

habitation, which, like

with

court
were

and

stable.
stone

cool. deliciously
or

Ail the ments apartThe floors the

were
narrow

from birth,
was

the town
a

of Vitoria.

There

also
a nose

red

individual, fiery-faced
on

were

of brick

; and

with

and trellised windows, which

to

out withof
sun

side,who
and village,

was

turned very much the blacksmith

was

one

of the of his the my

:
"

a ray permitted glass, scarcely

called the

in

El general.

penetrateinto
A

interior. tl^e been in prepared

Tuerto,
pectation ex-

from

circumstance

pucherahad
of
our

not

taken

away

arrival ; the heat had and it was my appetite,

having but assembly a

"

one

low

eye. bow, I and

Making pulledout
them

passport,and thus addressed

Grave whom
men

not

long before

the standard ate, Lopez songs. active

seen

to this I did full justice dish of Spain, Whilst I

cavaliers of this
I
am a

of city of should

Villa

Seca,as

stranger,

playedupon snatches occasionally

He
was a

the

guitar, ing sing-

of Andalusian

short, merry-faced,it my
I had

that you possible I have know deemed anytbing, to duty present myself before it is not

whom fellow,

at Madrid, and was a labrador of the Spanish

Though
and he
was

far from

intellect of and

Know, frequentlyyou, and to tell you who I am. of that I am an then, Englishman good good specimen in these blood and fathers,travelling or yeoman. sion, divercountries for the ability and profit possessing m}' own and for that of other people also. his wife, Maria Diaz,
I have
now

deficient in shrewdness by no means He was, moreover, understanding. and and disinterested,

found
I

my

way

to

Villa
some

honest will When thus

to propose that which time, doing may performed

Seca, where

stay

be deemed

as

good service in the Gospelcause, presently appear.

the repast was addressed me pez concluded,Lo"

convenient; sometimes
the and plain, in the
are

sometimes of the be I of

riding across bathing self mywhich river,

waters

"

Seiior Don has village

reportedto
of heat.

Jorge, your arrival in our caused a sensation already

as

times

therefore

; more

these

are

times

of

war

especially and the

during my sojourn in may enjoy such countenance

from

advantage in beg that, I this capital,

and

tumult, and and another,

we

every person dwell here close

:

is afraid of
on

confines of the factious country

as for,

you well know, the greater part of La Mancha is in the hands of the Carlinos and show of whom thieves, parties themselves
on on

tection proits governors as they are in the habit of affording to those who and of quietand well-ordered life, are ami obedient to be buxom are disposed
to

the
"

customs

and

laws

of

the

public." re-

frequently
He

speakswell," said the alcalde, around. glancing with the other grave and nothis city, table Yes, he speaks well," said the desirous of are ing seethereof, bulkyAlavese ; there is no denyingit." people ter," with heard any one and I never speak betconversing your worship, the cried blacksmith, starting up you, and of examining your passport."
river ; which the other side of the the alcalde of account
" " "

seated. which he was forthwith from stool on It is well," said I ; " let us a " and a fair pay a visit to these worthy people." Vaya ! he is a big man like myself. I like him, Whereupon he conducted me across the complexioned. horse where and that will just suit of the have the house a to alcalde, piaza,
"

seated in that is the t^ower of Spain, him ; one 1 found the rustic dignitary the passage, enjoying the refreshingand is eisht inches above the mark."

CUAP.

XLTII.]
then,with
passport to
another the

THE
bow.

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
"

251

him, joining the plain our course across directing with formalit}%" Did you ever towards the river, to comport themselves see such horse this of mine, Don observed the blacksmith. as a They would be very loth to harbour Is he not a any suspicion Jorge?" he demanded. cavalier and well And in courteous a so truth the jewel" an alaja?" against that horse this noble and was a spoken." Knowing, however, gallant creature, in height and that refusal amounted to nothing, at least sixteen hands, broad it merely formed but of clean and elegant ceremonial, limbs. chested, part of a polite His I proffered the passport a seneck cond was arched, and his superbly time, whereupon it was instantlyhead towered on high like that of a and in the In colour he was a moment nut, chesta bright taken, eyes of all swan. it with bent intense his flowing mane and tail, save present were upon examined from top which were It was almost black. I expressed curiosity. turned round and to bottom, repeatedly, my admiration ; whereupon the herraand though it is not probablethat an his heels to dor, in highspirits, pressed the creature's sides,and flinging indi\-idual present understood a word the in French, it bridle on of it,it being written its neck, speeded over the universal tion satisfacnevertheless with prodigious ing shoutswiftness, plain gave when the alcalde, the old Spanish cry, Cierra! I carefully ; and foldingit up, returned it to me, they attempted to keep up with him, but all observed that they had never had not a chance. a I call him seen the flower of Spain," said the herrador, better passport in their lives, or one which "Purchase me. spake in higher tenns of the rejoining him, Don bearer. is but three thousand Jorge; his price
"

alcalde, who, with a my his motion of hand, appearedto gentle time saydecline takingit, at the same ing, It is not necessary'." Oh, not The exclaimed the surgeon. at all,"
" "'

he shouted. Come with me, presented Jorge," if your worshipis disposed for a ride. I am bathe to in the horse going my the of Azeca." stantly I inTagus,by bridge saddled
we

my jacaCordovesa,and rode out of the village,

"

of housekeepers

Villa

Seca
"

know

how

"

"

Who sneered

was

it said and

that

"Cervantes
I
a

reals.* that have

I would
sum,

not

sell him

Spain'schivalryaway?"
not;
How the author
to

but

the

for double Carlist thieves I

am

know
line

of such be
bered. remem-

deserves scarcely the

him, and eyes upon that apprehensive they will some

their

day

tempts people at
write about

the river and break a dash across rage for scribblingmake the present day to into Villa Seca, all to get possession of ' " lands and nations of which The Flower of horse, Spain.' my

than noor worse thing It may be as well to observe nothing, here, is It not from ! within from this period, having a month Vaya that, at Seville or Madrid, a seen bull-fight my friend the herrador,not beingable of ounces at or having spent a handful to find a regular purchaser for his a posadain either of those places, entered into negociations with kept steed, Genoese a a or the Frenchman, aforesaid thieves perhapsby him, respecting that you are of the animal to competent to write abovtt and finally disposed such a people as the Spaniards, and to their leader,receiving the three not tell the world how thousand reals he demanded, but an they think, how and how act. entire herd of horned they speak, they Spain's cattle, proba1)ly sneered away ! Why there is driven from the plains of La JNIancha. chivalry that the great body For this transaction, which was neither every probability of the Spanish nation speak,think,and less than high treason, he was more nor live precisely their forefathers did as cast into the prisonof Toledo, where, six centuries ago. however, he did not continue long; for In the eveningthe blacksmith, or. as duringa short visit to Villa Seca, which he would be called in Spanish, El HerI made in the springof the following !

they know

rador, made
of

his appearance

at

the door Don

"

Lopez

on

horseback.

"

Vamos,

About

thirtypounds.

252 year, I found We which arrived is about

:

THE
him

BIBLE
"

IN into

SPAIN.
our

[chap, xliii.
will

alcalde of that

public." re-

house, I
a

give you
hole

glass
cool,

at the

half

Seca
crosses

close beside it the river.

bridgeof Azeca, from Villa league is a large watera

of water; we for we dug and buried

have

some

that is

deep
our

in the earth

there

pitcher ; it is cool,

mill, standing upon

dam

which

Dismounting from horses to return to the his steed,the herrador our proceeded to mounted and the rays of the beauteous it village, divest it of the saddle, then causing the rushing the mill-pool, he led it by luminarydanced merrilyon to enter the the silvered of waters of a cord to a particular means Tagus, spot, and which we were where the water over reached half way up passing, plain the bold bathed in a flood of brightness its neck, then fastening the cord to a
post
on

of Castile I told you, but the water as is not like that of Catalonia." when had arisen The we moon

the

bank,
the

he left the I

animal I

sides of the

calcarious the
"

hill of Villa-

standingin
could do
;
no

pool.

thought

luenga
crowned called
"

and

better than

follow his

ample ex-

its brow. the

rope from the into the water.

and, accordingly, procuringa horse mill,I led my own

It will refresh their Jorge,"said the herrador ;
"

antique ruins which Why is that place ?" I of Castle Villaluenga

of that village
name,
"

demanded.
From
on a

which

blood,Don
"

stands

the other side of the herrador.

Don hill,

let

us

leave them
we

there

for

an

the hour, Jorge," replied

Vaya!

whilst
Near

go and divert ourselves." the side of the the bridge, on

which of the
we

river

on

were,
were

was

kind

of

where guard-house, the tolls of the conversation of

three who

bineers car-

revenue,

bridge ;
them

we :
"

collected entered into

that castle : some it is a strange place, in the the Moors it built was by say Christians the old times, and some by when they first laid siegeto Toledo. bits, It is not inhabited now, save by rabwhich breed there in abundance

Is not this a of yours,"said I to dangerousposition with

one

amongst

the

them, who

was

Catalan ; " close

stones, and which build

I

long grass and broken by eagles and vultures,

on

beside the factious country ? Surelyit for a body of +he would not be difficult

occasionally go
a

shoot

rabbit.

the tops of the towers ; there with my gun to On a fine day you may

Carlinos
"It

or

bandits to dash
make be

across

the all."

and bridge

of you prisoners

would
"we

moment,

enough at any the Catalan; Cavalier,"replied

easy
are,

however,

all in

the

from and Madrid its walls. I cannot saj I like the place, it is so drearyand melancholy. The hill on which it stands is all of chalk, I heard and is very difficultof uscent.

descryboth Toledo

hands of God, and he has

and hitherto,

us preserved

my
was

perhapsstillwill.
of
our
us

True the
naille ca-

grandame say a cloud a girl,

she that once, when from smoke burst of

it is that
were

one

number,
hands
of

for there the

that
seen,
as

four he

of had

fell originally, wandered the

a
across

and that flames of fire were hill, justas if it contained a volcano,

other

day into
:

the

the his and

bridge amongst
gun three in search
or

thickets with
or

of

hare in But

when rabbit, him rible too hor-

perhapsit does, Don Jorge." lation circugrand work of Scripture in the Sagra. commenced soon the heat of the weather, Notwithstanding
The It I rode about in all directions. well that heat agrees with my constitution, otherwise it would have been effect the

four of them relate.

fell upon
a

put him to death

to
man

manner

was

! every patience die.

who

lives must
worse

the sleep chance these I

am

I shall not because I may to-night

to impossible season,

anything in this
arrieros their I had quently fre-

when

to be

hacked

by

the knives have

of smitten

fall dead

very from

mules,
an

malvados
from

to-morrow.

Cavalier,
seen

by

sun-stroke. in heat like

cellent ex-

Barcelona, and
of your
a

assistant

regarding Antonio,who, dis-

there mariners
not
so

nation ; this is
as

the afraid of

myself,and
several
"

good

countrj'

Barcelona.

visited nothing,

lages vilMon

Paciencia!

if you will step Cavalier,

with remarkable

success,

CHAP.

XLIII.J
"

THE I wish my
to

BIBLE show

IN the

SPAIN.

253

niaitre,"said he,
that
to

you both

nothing is beyond

capacity."wherever
us our

of the Sagra of Toledo, and villages and myself directed my people

course
we

But he who
whom

put the labours of host, Juan shame, was my

it had
to
"

found
our

the

inhabitants
;
hibited. ex-

Lopez, disposedto
it
was

receive called

merchandise
not

the pleased the

cause.

Lord
"

to render

even

for where

favourable

Don

Jorge,"

io quieroc"gancharme con said he, usted (I wish to enlist with you) ; I am

a

and liberal,

foe to

superstition ; I

will take the field, and, if necessary, in our hands." The poor creatures will follow you to the end of the world : money filled el then held Viva Ingalaterra viva their out hands, Evangelio." ; Thus he put saying, into
a

One night as I was bathing knot a myselfand horse in the Tagxis, of people the bank, crying, on gathered Come out of the water. Englishman, and give us books ; we have got our
"

Testaments

largebundle of and, springsatchel, ing

a

with of
no a

cuartos, a copper
but fartliing,
to
was

coin of the value

key, upon the crupper of his grey dontened he cried " Arrhe hurra" and hasI sat down away. Ere I had finished
to my

Testaments

I had unfortunately them. Antonio, give

at
a

however, who

short

distance,

journal. having exhibited one, it was instantly and from his hands by the people, I heard torn writing of the voice of the burra in the court-yard, to obtain possession a scuffleensued it. It very frequently occurred that and goingout, I found my host returned. in the neighbourthe poor labourers of his whole cargo of He had disposed hood, obtain the of to Testaments at Testaments, beingeager village twenty in to offer us Vargas,distant from Villa Seca about and having no money various articles to a league. Eight poor harvest-men, exchange, brought habitation for who were themselves the at our as ample, exequivalents refreshing ; and barley each a door of a wine-house, pu'"chased rabbits, fruit, ; and I made schoolmaster a point never to disappoint them, copy, whilst the village either of utility secured the rest for the little ones neath as such articles were befor our own his care, lamenting, at the same or that of the consumption he had longexperienced horses. time,the great difficulty in In Villa Seca there was in obtaining a school books, religious Avhich children their and to Avere taught fifty-seven owing scarcity extravagant One the first rudiments of education. also price. Many other persons w^ere tall slim the a anxious to purchase Testaments, but schoolmaster, morning of about sixty, bearing on his Lopez was unable to supply them : at figure lusia, head the him of to rehis departure one turn peaked hats of Andatheyrequested the and within a few days. notwithstanding wrapped, in excessive heat of the weather, rather a long I was that I was playing aware made his and and that it was a daring game, cloak, having appearance, very to be shown when I least expectedit, seated himself,requested that, possible of our books. tied to the tail of a I might be seized, one Having delivered it either to the prison to him, he remained examining it for mule, and di-agged half without of Toledo or INIadrid. Yet such a proan a hour, uttering spect nearly with a At last he laid it down did not discourage in the least, word. me and said that he should be very but rather urged me to persevere ; for, sigh, of these books wish this the without at some time, happy to purchase slightest their appearhis that for but from could I to magTiify school, ance, myself,I say of the the do\\Ti life for the from was especially quality eager to lay my and he was and whether a bandit's bullet or sive apprehenbinding, cause, paper the gaol fever brought my career that to pay for them would exceed to a of the parents of his pupils, of indifierence to the means mattei a close,was then a stricken man as not me : they were almost destituteof money, ; I was Eide on because of the word of rightemenced ousness," being poor labourers. He then comwhich the was blaming government, my cry.
"

The

news

of lifesoon

he of the arrival of the book wildfire like through spread

said established schools without the

fording af-

necessary books, addiijg

254

THE
in his school there for the
use

BIBLE but but

IN

SPAIN. maltreat He

CHAP.

XLIIl.

that books these

were

two

otherwise
to

me.

who the

wishes

of all his what

and pupils, little

become

with acquainted

genuine

seek him in seanot ports Spaniard must and large towns, but in lone and He said, remote like those of the Sagra. the Testaments were worth ? villages, I There he will find all that gravity Senor Cavalier,to speak frankly, of and chivalry have in other times paid twelve reals of disposition deportment

he confessed

contained

good.
"'

I asked him

he considered

in every yours that you my poor unable would be utterly to pay pupils " I I replied, the half of that sum." for books inferior to
assure

respect,but I

wliich Cervantes is said to have sneered away ; and there he will hear,in everyday those grandiose conversation, pressions, exwhen with in the met which,

for of chivalry, scoffed at as romances are please ridiculous am acquainted exaggerations. I had one with the poverty of the land, and my enemy in the village it the the curate. friends and myself, in affording was The of spiritual tion, instrucfellow is a heretic and a peoplethe means said he one day in the conhave no wish to curtail their scanty scoundrel," clave. He bread." He Bendito sea the church, enters never : replied and is poisoning the minds of the people (blessed be God), and could Dies" He instantlywith his Lutheran believe his ears. books. Let him be scarcely bound and he as to sent Toledo, or turned purchased a dozen, expending, with of the least." all the he out at said, possessed, village money the exception of a few cuaitos. The I will have nothingof the kind," will sell you three reals
as many each.

as

you

"

"

"

"

"

introduction of the word

the

of God

into

said the

who alcalde,
"

was

said to be

fore country schools of Spain is there-

Carlist.
have mine with

If he
too.

has

his

I opinions, self himI been should has

begim, and
will prove
one

humbly hope
events

that it which

He him?

has conducted He

of those
most

Why politeness.
and daughter,
a

the

Bible
with

after Society,
reason

the

lapseof

interfere with
courteous
to my her with

years, will have

to remember

has presented

joy and

to the gratitude

mighty. Althe

volume.

Que viva !

An

old

peasant is

reading in
have

and with respect to his being a Lutheran, I have heard say that amongst the

portico. Eight\--four years

of as good there are sons passed Lutherans He fathers here. his head, and he is almost entirely a over as appears to me well." deaf; nevertheless he is readingaloud caballero. He speaks is no denying it,"said the the second of jNIatthew : three days There since he bespokea Testament, but not surgeon. Who speaksso well ? shouted tlie being able to raise the money, he has
" " "

not

redeemed He

it until the present has

ment. mo-

herrador.
'

"

And

who

has

more

for-

? Vaya ! did he not praise my just brought thirty malitj' Did The flower of Spain? hair I the horse, as farthings silvery ; survey he not say that in the whole of Ingalawhich overshadows his sun-bunit coim'

tenance, the words

to me,
"

Lord,

of the song occurred lettest thou thy now peace eyes

terra

there
assure

was

not

better ? would

Did

he

not

me,

moreover,

that if he

were

servant

depart in

thy word, for mine salvation."

I

accordingto to remain in Spain ho have seen thy it,giving me my own

'

purchase
Tuni
own

price?

him

out, indeed !

Is he not of my

'. much blood, is he not fair-complexion'^d experienced gi'ave kindness the him out when and sunple hospitality shall turn the good Who from I, of Villa Seca duringmy sojourn one-eyed,' people say no ?
' "

amongst
won

them.

I had

at
"

this time
"

so

In the

connexion

with

the circulation of

their hearts behaviour

to

by the
and

formality of
that I
sisted re-

my

language,
would

firmly believe
the

they

have
arrest

knife been

any attempt which made

to
or

might

have

relate an I will now Scriptures divested of not altogether I have already spokenof siugularitj-. of Azeca. the the water-mill bridge by the with I had formed acquaintance aiiecdote

256

CHAPTER

XLIV.

Aranjuez
"

Warning

"

Night
Curasi
"

Adventure

"

fresh
"

Lopez in

Prison

Rescue

Expedition" Segovia" Abades" of Lopez.

tious Fac-

now of our closed,and the lighttinkling is no speedily guitars longerheard ami'lst its I urged me on to a new enterprise. groves and gardens. determined to direct my course At Aranjuez I made now to a sojournof La Mancha, and to distribute the word three days, duringwhich time Antonio, of that province. Lopez,and myself visited every house amongst the villages in the town. such We found a vast deal of Lopez,who had already performed habitants, importantservices in the Sagra,had poverty and ignoranceamongst the inand experienced some accompanied us to Madrid, and was sition oppoit pleased the Almighty : nevertheless tion. expedieager to take part in this new We determined in the first place of about to permitus to dispose where we hoped eighty Testaments, which to proceed to Aranjuez, were chased purinformation which might to obtain some by the very poor people entirely ; in the further regulathose in easier circumstances tion prove of utility payingno of our movements ; Aranjuezbeing attention to the word of God, but rather but a slight distance from the frontier it to scoff and ridicule. turning of La Mancha, and the high road into One circumstance was very gi*atifythat provincepassingdirectly and to ing through cheering me, namely, the it. We accordingly sallied forth from which I possessed ocular proof that the of were from twenty to forty books which I disposed Madrid, selling read, Testaments in every village which and with those whom I to attention, lay by

The

success

which

had

attended

efforts in the

Sagra of

Toledo

in

our

way,
to which

until

we we

arrived had

at

juez, Aran-

sold them

place of Aranjuez, and beneath the mighty largesupplyof books. A and cedars e lms is and plantains lovelyspot gigantic Aranjuez,though in desolation: here the Tagus flows its noble woods, I have which compose ing seen througha delicious valley, perhapsthe frequently groups assembled listenfertile in Spain; and most with New here vipthe to individuals who, in their better little in Testament were a hands, Spain's reading sprang, days, with a small but beautiful palace, aloud the comfortable words of salvation. city,
a

forwarded

others parthat many ticipated ; and in their benefit. In the streets

shaded

by enormous
to

where trees,
cares.

delighted
Ferdinand

forgetits

royalty Here
and the

It is probable that, had

I remained

the Seventh

spent his latter

longer period
have sold

at

Aranjuez, I might

days,surrounded by lovely senoras Andalusian but as bull-fighters:

German
"

Schiller has happy days in

the sensual

it in

one

of his

of these divine more many I but was books, eager to gain La and its sandyplains, and to Mancha conceal

"

: tragedies

myselffor
a

season

amongst its
was

The Are

fair

Aranjuez

for solitary villages, sive that

stoi'm
was

past and gone."

once king went to his me ; but when dread account, royalty deserted it,and the frontier town, I knew well that I it soon fell into decay. Intriguingshould have nothingto fear from the courtiers no their power as longer crowd its halls ; Spanish authorities, its spacious where of ceased La Mancha circus, there, the rest Manchegan bulls once roared in rage and agony, is being almost entirely in the hands of

When

apprehen-I around j gathering through Ocana, {

I

CHAP.

XLIV.]
and Carlists, I trusted
me.
overruu

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
at

257

tlie

by
whom,
Lord

snuill ever, how-

will be set and said may he this,

liberty ; but
attend towards
moment

do

you

flee,

from of banditti, parties that the preserve Ocana, distant three I therefore

God

you."

Having

would

hurried
a

the town.
to take his

for departed from Arauleagues

at

I hesitated not

advice,knowing
books had do the
no

juez.
I started with
sent

been
more

Antonio

six in the

could turned

full well that,as my taken possession of, I in that quarter. We

evening, having forward Lopez with

three hundred

in the early

morning
two

back of the

in the direction of Aranat groimd,galloping

between

juez,
nature
a

tho horses,notwitlistanding full

not
our

and

Testaments. We left the high road, and proceeded by shorter way very broken

speed; but
over.

adventures

were

throughwild hills and over and precipitous groimd:

mounted,
smiset
a on we

from

Midway, and about half a league the village of Antigola, we saw

us on our

being
which

well stands

found

selves our-

close to
on a

left hand As far

to
as

three

men

after just

Ocaiia, opposite steep hill, A deep

us came a

low bank.

the darkness

would
were
a

permit us
naked, but

distinguish, they
bore in his hand
were

valleylay between
we

and

the
to
a

town

each

descended, and
of the
a

small small We

long gun.
common

These assassins We

rateros,
robbers cried

or

which bridge, bottom crossed

traverses

rivulet at the
very suburb.
were a

the
"

and and

of

at valley,

the roads. Who What

was
"

halted
"

out,

distance from
the

kind

of

and bridge,
on

passing
left under

by

deserted house
a

our

hand,
the

drift
from

They replied, goes there ? 's that to you ? pass by." Their from a position to fire at us
it would be
"

when

man

from appeared

which We

to impossible

porch.

If you do not What I am about to state will seem the instantly rightside of the pass to but a singular incomprehensible, history road we will tread you down beneath

miss.

shouted,

and a singular people are connected himself before with it : the man placed
my
"

the horses' hoofs." then daunts

one we no

They

for obeyed, and them.

an
"

all assassins

horse

so

as

to bar the way,

and

said

the least show As But

we

hesitated and tards, dasare of resolution

ScIiopJion," which, in a rabbit. tongue, signifies

word
to

the

Hebrew

galloped past,
oath,
"

I knew

this

with cried, fire? ! there 's

obscene another

Shall
"

of the Jewish counterbe one signs, and asked the man if he had any" ? He said, You to communicate tliing
must not enter

said,

No,

the town,

for

net is

reached danger." We where next Aranjuez, early morning returned to Lopez rejoined us, and we JNIadrid.

of preparedfor you. The corregidor whom all evil in on Toledo, light, may order to give pleasure of to the priests

I am sorry to state that two hundred Testaments seized at Ocana, from were

Maria, in

whose

face I

has spit,

ordered the

whence,
were

all the alcaldes of these parts,and escribauos and the corchetes to

being sealed despatchedto Toledo.

me,

after

up,

they Lopez
he

lay
find

informed could
was were so

that

in two

hours

hands

on

you

wherever

they may

have

disposedof in less than ten morning minutes. in the town Eide on because of the word of above, as he was selling the writings in the streets, and they are the righteousness." Notwithstanding which had experienced now we at awaiting your arrival in the posada; check from but I knew the from couraged, disof far accounts Ocaiia, we were being you and forthwith prepared selves ourbrethren, and I have been waiting my here four hours to giveyou warning in As we for another expedition.
Your
servant
was

you, and to send you, and your books, and all that pertains to you to Toledo. seized this

the demand all, great. As it was, twenty-seven

sold them

"

order that your horse may turn his tail to your enemies, and neighin derision of them. Fear nothingfor your servant, for he Ls known
to

returned had

from

eyes the mighty wall of mountains the two

Aranjuez to Madrid, my frequentlyghuiced towards

dividing

and tliealcaide,

Castiles, and

I said to
S2

myself

25S

THE

BIBLE
those the

IN
birds

SPAIN.
soon

XLrV. [CHA!'.

"

Would

it

not

be well to in Old and

cross

began
of

to

hoot and commenced

aud hills,

commeuce

on operations

millions

crickets

cry, and theii-

other side,even I am unknown,

Castile ? There

proceedingscan
enemy of the is

of my intelligence scarcelyhave been

shrill chirping above, below, and around amidst the trees at a us. Occasionally,
we distance,

could
"

see

blazes,as if from
are

transmitted thither. roused himself, I may

of the

Peradventure
before have
sown

the has

immense Antonio

fires.
*'

They
mon

those of the

asleep,and

he the

charcoal-burners,
;

maitre," said

much

seed amongst precious

Old

Castilians. To

will not go near we them, lages however, for they are vilpeople, savage tile, and half bandits. Many is the traveller Cas-

therefore, to Castilla la Vieja!" whom

they have

robbed

and

murdered

in these horrid ^^'ildemesses." the day after my arrival, on Accordingly, It was blackest night when several cargoes of we I despatched rived arwhich I proposed at the foot of the mountains books to various places ; wc were however, amidst woods and |, and sent forward Lopez and still, to -Nisit, which extended for leagues his donkey,well laden, with directions pineforests, shall scarcely in every direction. We me on a paiticular to meet day beneath of Segovia.reach mon arch of the aqueduct maitre," Segovia to-night, a particular indeed it proved, said Antonio. And so I likewise gave him orders to became bewildered, and at last operate for we willing to copersons engage any
"

with

U5

in the circulation of the

arrived

where

two

roads branched

ofi
I

took not the in difierent directions : we to might be likely have conleft-hand road, which would A the enterpi'ise. ducted but turned to the to Segovia, useful assistant than Lopez in an us more in the direction of La Granja, of this Idnd it was impossible right, expedition arrived at midnight. we He was not quainted where to have. only well acWe found the desolation of La Granja with the country, but had

and who Scriptures, in of utility prove

and fi-iends,

even

connexions in whose hills,

on

the
at

other side of the

houses all

had suffered from

ie assured "dmes find a

me

that

we

should

far gi'eater than that of Aranjuez ; both the absence of royalt}-, but the former to a degreewliich was

habitants Nine-tenths of the inHe partedtrulyappalling. dewelcome. heart}^ left this place, had in high spirits, which, exclaiming, Be until the late military revolution, had' of good cheer,Don Jorge: before we turn retina, of every copy been the favourite residence of Chriswill have disposed we So great is the solitude of La of your evangelic library. Do^\^l with that wild boars from the neighwith superstition ! Granja, the friars ! Down from the and especially viva el Evangelio Viva Ingalaterra, ! forests, boiiring beautiful pine-covered mountain which nio. In a few days I followed with Antobehind the We ascended the mountains directly by rises like a cone into find their way the pass called Pena Cerrada, which palace,frequently
"
"

tlie streets and squares, and whet their lies about three leaguesto the eastward of the porticos. the pillars tusks against It is very unof that of Guadarama. frequented, " of of the word Ride on because the the high road between After a stay of twent^'righteousness." we proceeded Granja, being, accordingto common report, to Segovia. The day had arrived on which I had appointed to meet infested with banditti. The sun was Lopez. I repaired reached the top of to the aqueductand sat down when we justsetting and seventh arch, and entered a thick and gloomy beneath the hundred the hills, where I waited the greater part of the the covers pine forest,which entirely the side of Old Castile. mountains on not, whereupon I day, but he came into the city. and went became Tlie descent soon so arose rapid and At SegoviaI tarried two days in the fain to dismount that we were precipitous,
two

Castiles

rama. passingthrough Guadaan

It has, moreover,

evil name,

four liours at La

friend, still I could hear before us. Into the woods them we nothing of Lopez. At last, by the I heard nlnnged deeperand deeperstill ; night- greatest chance in the world,
from
our

horses

and

to

drive

house

of

CHAP,'XLIV.]
from the
a

THE

BIBLE
men

IN

SPAIN. that it late in

259

peasant that there

were

in

was

the

selling evening,I decamped with all my people, and upwards of three hundred books. taments, Tesdistant Abades is about three leagues having a few hours previously this received fresh supplyfrom from and Madrid. a Segovia, upon receiving the That in the and I for we fields, night departed passed intelligence, instantly next former place, with three donkeys laden to a morning proceeded Labajos, Abades road from Madrid "\vfith I reached the Testaments. o n village high with two ottered and found Lopez, In this place to Valladolid. we at nightfall, in the books for but contented whom had he i.o selves oursale, engaged, peasants with supplying where the neighbouring house of the surgeon of the place, with residence. He had the word of God; I also took up my we villages likewise it sold in the of a considerable number disposed highways. already had not been at Labajos in the neighbourWe of Testaments a week, hood, and had that day commenced duringwhich time we were remarkably ever, the Carlist chieftain, he had, howat Abades successful,when itself; selling been interrupted by two of the Balmaseda, at the head of his cavalry, three curas of the village, his desperateinroad into the who, with made southern of Old horrid curses, denounced the work, Castile, dashing part down like avalanche from the condemnation to eternal an threatening pineand to any person woods of Soria. I was Lopez for selling it, present at all neighbourhoodof
Abades who

withsta

pruchase it wh"^ foi'bore until i Lopez,ttrnfied,

"

should

"^"'PHi should

the horrors

which the

ensued,
"

the sack of

IArrevalo, and Munoz.

we

arrive. the

The

hunself

third cura, however, exMartin erted the to utmost to persuade scenes with thren brethat his

forcible entry into Amidst these terrible

our

continued

labours.

denly Sud-

to providethemselves people

I lost

them Testaments, telling

were

sufi'ered dreadful

and hypocrites in and will of

who, by keepingthem
tlieword

false guides, of ignorance by

Lopez for three days,and count, anxiety on his acimaginingthat he had been shot
last I heard that he

the Carlists ; at

ing leadin prison three leagues at Villallos, were was Christ, them to the abyss. Upon receiving distant. which The steps I took to rescue this information, sallied forth him will be found detailed in a I instantly the market-place, and that same to communication,which I deemed it my of upwards duty to transmit to Lord William succeeded in disposing Hernight of thirty The next mornTestaments. in of the absence ing Sir George vey, who, the house was entered by the two become Earl of Clarendon, now Villiers, factious curas fulfilled the duties of minister at Madrid to ; but upon my rising and confront I :" them, they retreated, of them, except that they heard no more Province of Segovia, cursed me in the church more Labajos, publicly than once, from I will
next
an

event

which, as
me

no

My ill resulted

Lord,
I

August 23rd,

1838.

it, gave

littleconcern.
events

not

detail the

of that

the
ranging ar-

the

beg leave to call facts. following

information the
name

your attention to On the 21st inst. that in a person of Juan Lopez, of prison lallos, Vil-

week;
my

suffice it to say

I received my had been

forces in the most

I of from disposing Testaments
one

tageous advanfive to the

employ,of
in the

way, in assistance, six hundred from villages from of that that my

succeeded,by God's
amongst
the

thrown

into the

of the New
at

cui'a

of Avila, by order province of that place. The crime he

was

to

seven

tance with disleagues'

which

chargedwas
I the
was

selling
at

Abades.

At

expirationthe
time is known in

Testament.

that

periodI received

information

Labajos, in

provinceof

were proceedings in which province Abades Segovia,

and Segovia, chieftain diate mounted

a

the division of the factious in the innneBalmaseda was the

and situated, be sent

about to to the alcalde to seize all books

an was

that

order

neighbourhood. On
horse and

22nd, I

in my

possession.Whereupon,

not-

rode to Villallos^ my distance of tliree Icataies. On my ar-

260

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

xliv Lcbaj".

rival

I found that Lopezhad been I beg leave humbly to intreat there, removed from the prison to a private your Lordshipto cause a copy of the house. An order had arrived from the above narration to be forwarded to the of Avila,commanding that corregidor the person of Lopez should be set at and that the books vrhich had liberty, been found in his possession should be

famy,
Spanish government.
Your I have the honour
to

remain,

My Lord,

most Lordship's

obedient,
BORROW.

alone detained. Nevertheless, in direct to this order (a copy of which opposition alcalde of of the cura, at the instigation Villallos, refused to permit the said Lopez to quit the place, either to proceed to Avila or in any other direction. It had been hinted
were

GEORGE
To the Right Honourable Lord William Hehvey.

I herewith

the transmit),

After

the in

rescue

of

Lopez
of

we

ceeded pro-

the

work

distributioio.

Lopez that as the it was intended expected,

to

factious their on

however, the symptoms of an Suddenly, over me, approachingillness came which compelledus to return in all
I was Madrid. Arrived there, attacked by a fever which confined me to my bed for several weeks ; occasional fitsof delirium came over me, during of which, I imagined one myselfin the

arrival to denounce and to cause liberal,

him to them as a him to be ficed. sacriTakingthese circumstances into it my I deemed as consideration, duty,

haste

to

Christian and

gentleman,to

rescue

my

unfortunate servant from such lawof Martin Muiioz, less engaged market-place in in and with the chieftaiu hands, deadlystruggle consequence, defying I bore him off, Balmaseda. tirely opposition, though en-

unarmed, througha
least one the As

crowd Viva

of at

hundred peasants. On
I

leaving
Isabel

The when a

place

shouted,

"

Segunda."
it is my

me

departed, scarcely took posprofoundmelancholy session of me, which entirely fied disqualifor active exertion. Change of
fever had
;

^''illallos is a

belief that the cura of of inperson capable any

and air was recommended therefore returned to England.

scene

261

CHAPTER

XLV.

Return

to

Spain
"

Seville

"

hoaryPersecutor

"

Manchegan Proplietess Antonio's

"

Dream.

of December. 1838, thirty-first I again visited Spainfor the third time. After stajing two at Cadiz. I a day or from which place I to Seville, repaired for Madrid with the proposedstarting the mail post. Here this terrestrial T had done I tarried about the
a

On

condescended
I He became

to

pointme

to a

and sofa,

to proceeded

state to him

much

my business. when I mentioned agitated

to him ; but I no

the Testaments
sooner

and spoke of the Bible Society fort- told him who I was, than he could connight, tain of

the delicious climate enjoying and Paradise, breezes of the Andalusian

as

himself
fire like hot

no

: longer

with

mering stam-

balmy

tongue, and

with

eyes

flashing
rail

winter, even

he proceeded to coals, and society

two myself, saying years leaving Seville I visited the that the aims of the firstwere atrocious, formed inand that, he was who as to myself, bookseller, correspondent, surprised my that seventy-six of me beingonce lodgedin the prison copiesof that, Testaments the hundred entrusted to been permitted to Madrid, I had ever in embargo by his care had been placed that it was quitit ; adding, disgraceful

the previously.against

Before

the government

they

were

at the

of

the

and that last summer, time in present possession ecclesiastical governor,

in the government to allow a person of about an innocent my character to roam and peaceftil the country, corrupting

and unsuspicious. whereupon I determined to visit this minds of the ignorant with Far view of from the ing makcerted also, functionary allowing myselfto be discont he inquiries concerning property. by his rude behaviour,I replied He lived in a large house in the Paand to him with all possible politeness, He was assured him that in this instance he had a very or straw-mai'ket. jaria, old man, between to alarm as himself, seventy and eighty, no reason my sole of those who motive in claimingthe books in quesand, like the generality tion the sacerdotal habit in this city, to avail myself of an wear was tunity opporfierce persecuting which at present presented was a Papist. I itself, believed his of sending them of the country, out imagine that he scarcely his two when ears grand-nephews, which, indeed, I had been commanded beautiful black-haired to do by an officialnotice. But nothing boys who were in the inform would soothe him, and he informed ran to me playing court-yard, him that an Englishman was waiting that he should not deliver up the books to speak with him, as it is probable that on save by a positive any condition, I in
was

the first heretic who ever into his habitation. I found vaulted also in
room,
two

tured ven-

order of tlie government.

was

As
not

the matter
quence, conse-

him

by
I

no

means

an

affair of

with chair,

lofty taries, secresinister-looking

on a ployed emhabits,

seated

thought it wise

and before he
even

also

in

sacerdotal
at
a

prudentto me. requested

sist, pertake my leave followed I was the

to

writing mind the to my broughtpowerfully old M -ho grim inquisitor persuaded the Second to slayhis own son Philip
table before him. He
as
an

down

into the street by his niece

and whole

who, during grand-nephews,

of the conversation, had listened at the door of the apartment and heard every In

enemy
rose
a

to the church.

word.

He
me

as

and entered,

gazedupon
with
picion sus-

passingthrough La Mancha,
at
was

we a

with

countenance

dark

staid for four hours

Manzanares,

and

dissatisfaction. He

at last

largevillage.I

standingin

the

262

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.xlv.

""-s-ith a curate, market-place conversing though it is but just to observe,and wheu a frightful to the Almighty, ragged presentedalwayswith gratitude object itself that the next mail was stopped.A singular a or girlabout eighteen ; it was film incident befell white a me nineteen, perfectly blind, immediately her huge staringafter my arrival : on entering the arch being spreadover Her of the called La where I was as countenance posada yellow Eejua, eyes. I thought cled enciras that of a Mulatto. at first intended to put up, I found myself that she was and in and a a on Gypsy, addressing arms, turning person's in Gitano if she round in amazement, beheld my Greek to her,inquired myself of that race ; she imderstood me, He were was servant, Antonio. haggard but shaking her head, replied, and ill dressed, and his eyes seemed that she from their sockets. was somethingbetter than a Gitana, starting and could speaksomething As soon as we were better than alone he informed that jargon of witches : whereupon she that since my departure he had unme dergone ' commenced several questions me asking great miseryand destitution, in exceedingly been good Latin. I was of having, duringthe whole period, in need of his but sumunable to find a master course moning surprised, very much all my I called her that he was brought so services, Latinity, nearly and Manchegan Prophetess, expressingto the verge of desperation ; but that on my admiration for her learning, preceding begged the nightimmediately my what to be informed she became arrival he had a dream, in which he means by of it. I must here obride saw possessed me, mounted on a black horse, that a crowd the of and that the to seiTe instantly gathered up posada, gate around us, who, thoughthey understood that account he had been waiting on word of our discourse, not one there during the greater part of the at every of the girl sentence shouted applause, to offer an opiday. I do not pretend nion of a prophetess t his which proudin the possession narrative, concerning who could ansAver the Englishman. is beyond the reach of my philosophy, She informed me that she was and shall content myself born with observing, and that a Jesuit priest had taken that only two individuals in Madrid blind, her when she was a child, were on of my arrival in Spain. I aware compassion and had taught her the holylanguage,was into very gladto receive him again in order that the attention and hearts of my his service, as, notwithstanding Christians mightbe more turned he had in many instances proved faults, easily towards her. I soon discovered that he assistance to me in my of no slight had taughther somethingmore than and Biblicallabours. wanderings for upon telling her that I was I was settled in my former lodgsoon Latin, ings, said she that she had when of my firstcares an was to one Englishman, loved Britain, which was once the always pay a visitto Lord Clarendon. Amongst he informed that he me nursery of saints and sages, for example, other things, and Thohad received an official notice from the mas of Canterbury but she the those added, ; government, stating seizure of the times had gone by since the re-appearTestaments stances New at Ocana,the circumance of Semiramis which scribed deHer I have to (Elizabeth). relating Latin was and when I, former occasion, and informing a on excellent, truly him that unless stepswere stantly ina genuineGoth, spoke of Anglia Terra Vaudalica she taken to remove them from the (Andalusia), corrected me by saying, that in her language country, they would be destroyed at those places called Britannia AVv're Toledo, to which placetheyhad been and Terra Betica. When had that I should we conveyed. I replied finished our discourse, a gathering was ;^ive myselfno trouble about the matthe very poorledo, made for the prophetess, tor ; and that if the authorities of Toest civil determined or ecclesiastic, contributing something. Aftu" travelling four days and nights,upon burning these books,my onlyhope arrived at Madrid we without having was them to that they would commit the llames with a ccident. all tiie experienced slightest publicity pos.sible and

Bede and Alcuin,Columbus

like

264

CHAPTER

XLVI.

Work

of Distribution Fuente la

resumed

"

Adventure Victoriano's

at Cobenna

"

Power

of the
"

Clergy
"

Rural
"

rities" Autho-

Higuera
at Mass.

"

Mishap

"

Village Prison

The

Rope

Antonio's

Errand

"

Antonio

In my

diately immeI stated that, last chapter after my arrival at

said
"

"

Uncle

what (Tio),
borrico ?
"

Madrid,

have
"

got on

your

is that you Is it soap ?"

to wash

ness in readiproceededto get everything in the for commencing operations I soon entered up: and neighbourhood on in able Considerlabours reality. my
success

Yes," I replied ; it is soap

what I meant

souls clean." She demanded upon ; whereI told her that I carried

cheapand

attended

my

feeble efforts

godly books

in the after look

good cause, for which at present, the lapseof some years, I still my with gratitude commenced back mighty. to the Alinstantly
loud
"

her ing requestto see one, I produceda copy from and handed it to her. She pocket

for sale.

On

reading with

and continued so for at least voice, within the distance ten minutes, occasionally All the villages exclaiming, of four leaguesto the east of Madrid Que lectura tan honita, que lectura tan linda I What visited in less than a fortnight, what charming were beautiful, of nearly reading!" At last, and Testaments to the number on informing my
two

hundred

of. disposed

These

lages her that I vil-

was

in

and hurry,
"

could not
; I

some a

for the most part are very small, of not more of them consisting than

wait any
and asked told her
"

she said longer,

me

True, true,"
the book

the

of price

dozen

houses, or
to

I should

rather say

But

three

reals," whereupon

miserable cabins.

Greek,

and

I left Antonio, my she said, that though what I asked was in Madrid, very little, it was than she could more matters superintend proceededwith Victoriano, afford to give,as there was littleor no

the peasant,from Villa Seca, in the direction in those parts. I said I was money I have for which but that I could not dispose tioned. it, already mensorry

We, however,soon
and The
an

pany comparted

of

the

books and her

for less than

I had

manded, de-

pursueddifferent routes. first village I made at which

was

accordingly, resuming it,

wished
had

attempt

Cobenna,
Madrid.
I

about
was

three

and left her. I farewell, not, however, proceededthirty

me,

leaguesfrom
in the
fashion

dressed

yards, when
behind
"

of the peasants in the of in Old Castile, neighbourhood Segovia, species of leather helmet or montera, with and trousers of the same rial. matejacket I had

boy came of out shouting,

the

running
breath"

namely, I

had

on

my

head

Stop,uncle, the book, the book !" he delivered the Upon overtaking me, three reals in copper, and seizing the
Testament,
was ran

back

to

her,who

I suppose

the appearance of a person between and seventy years of age, sixty and drove before me borrico Avith a a sack of Testaments

the book his sister, flourishing

over

his head

On

with great glee. I directed at the village, arriving

itsback. across lying my stepsto a house, around the door of I several peoplegathered, a met nearingthe village, genteel- which I saw little On my displaying woman a women. lookingyoung leading chiefly my hand I the about their as was to pass was : books, boy by instantly curiosity her with the customary salutation of and every person had speedily aroused, listed in aloud his hand, many con Dios, she stopped, and, one reading vaija after looking for a moment, she at me an hour, however, after waiting nearly

On

cniP.

XLvi.

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
for her

2C5

I had

for hersel]^ and a fourth for her brother, ney, whom she times, and the almost total want of mosaid she the home that at knowledged acsame was time, they though, expecting night from Madrid. that the booliS were derfully wonand appeared to cheap,

of but disposed of bitterly

plaining one copy, all comthe distress of the

one

living son,

another

for her

deceased Iiusbaiid, third a

good to gather up
when made place
on

and

Christian-like.
a

was

be very about and

In

this

manner

we

proceeded;not,
success.
were so

however,
and money

with that

uniform

In

the curate of the After having his appearance. time

my sudden

merchandise

part, some de-

the villages

needy

people poor no they had literally

for some the books examined he with considerable attention,

me

in these, naged however, we ma; even of a few copies in exto dispose change

the

of price

informinghim he replied that

more,

copy, that it was the

was

for barley asked refreshments. On or and upon small Victoone hamlet, entering my very three reals, riano was stoppedby the curate, who, worth
on

bindingwas
much and

what learning unless

cause

he

told him, carried,

and that he stolen the

afraid that that it was

that would

he him

I had

books,

he instantly departed, a nd to be imprisoned,

perhaps his duty to send me to prison would write to Madrid in order to give as a suspicious character;but added, information of what was goingon. The ever excursion lasted about eight that the books were mediately good books, howdays. Imand after my return, I despatched cluded conthey might be obtained, Victoriano to Caramanchel, a village two at copies.The by purchasing from Madrid, the only heard their curate a short distance poor people no sooner
recommend eager
and
to
secure

the volumes, than all were and hurried here one, of

one

towards

the

west

which

had

not

been

there for the purpose that between so money,

were thirty copies

procuring
and
an

visited last year. He staid there about an hour, and disposed of twelve and copies, then returned, as he was ceedingly exand was afraid of being timid,

twenty
in

sold almost

stant. in-

that met This adventure not onlyaffords on by the thieves who swarm instance of the power stillpossessed road in the evening. after these events, a circumstance the minds Shortly by the Spanishclergy over fluence occurred which but proves that such inof the people, will, perhaps, the English reader to smile, is not always exerted in a manner cause whilst,
an

favourable and ignorance In another Testament she had

a

to

the maintenance

of

at

the

same

time,itwill
as

not
an

superstition. on village, my showing a

a

to

woman,

she

said that
she that

interesting, affording the feeling of in some prevalent of with villages Spain respect
and the the committed all that
savours are

fail to prove example of the lone

to

vation inno-

should

child at school for whom like to purchaseone, but

and thereof, sometimes

strange

acts which

the book whether first know she must service calculated of to him. be to was

by fear of without the slightest priests, and called for She then went turned reto account as being presently theylive away, ; with the schoolmaster, followed from the of the rest world, apart* quite selves, by all the children under his care ; she they know no people greaterthan themthe schoolmaster and a dream of a book, then, showing higher scarcely for her son. if it would answer inquired power than their own. called her a simpleThe schoolmaster I was excursion to about to make an ton and such said of Alcarfor asking and the villages a question, Guadalajara,
tliat he knew
was

the rural authorities and

the book

well, and there

ria, about
Madrid

seven

leagues distant
I

from

not
en

its equal in the world

otro

el
five

miindo). He
for copies
no
"

his

merely awaited the of Victoriano return to sallyforth ; I instantly purchased him in that direction pupils, regret- havingdespatched ting
; indeed

{no haij

that he had whole

woman

more

if I had," said he,

" for money, the would I buy

with

few

Testaments,

as

kind of

ex-

the this, cargo." Upon hearing four purchased

Kara
said.

t6v tSttov koI 6 toSti'os, tonio Anas

copies, namely,

256

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
He
was
a man

[chap.XiVI.
about

in order that,fi'orahis report as plorer, the disposition to manifested by the for 1 people purchasing, might form a accurate tolerably opinion as to the number of copies which it might be necessary
to

-five, thirty
On
it ;

than he burst out into a title-page exclaiming Ha, ha, Don laugh, the end of which we period a letter was Jorge Borrow, the English heretic, have encoiintered last. at broughtto me by a peasant,dated from Glory you the prison of Fuente la Higuera,a callage to the Virgin and tlie Saints! We from Madrid, in tlie have been eight leagues long expectingyou here, written and at length you are arrived." He Campiiiaof Alcala : this letter, understand then the of the me to Victoriano, book, by inquired price gave that he had been already and on beingtold three reals, prisoned, he f.ung eight daysimme.

carry with
him

However,

ance.
of he
a

savage

truculent

countenance.
a

Victoriano's
took
no

him offering did

Testament,

it in his hand

to

examine

but the

sooner

his eyes
"
"

glanceover

heard

nothingof

for

at fortnight,

loud

and

that unless

1 could

find

do-^m with

some to extricate him, there was means of his remaining in every probability durance until he should perishwith

two, and rushed out of the house in his hand. the Testament became

Victoriano now determined upon

soon

alarmed,and

hunger,which
occur

he had
as

no

doubt
was

would
hausted. ex-

as

soon

his what

From

money I afterwards

back the

learned, it appeared that, after the town of Alcala, he had

success.

ing passmenced com-

the placeas lea\'ing He therefore hurried as possible. and ha\'ing to the posada, paidfor his had which sumed, conbarley pony into the stable, and placwent ing the packsaddleon the animal's about
to

and with considerable distributing,

back, was

lead

it

when forth,

the alcalde of the village, the surgeon, of sixty-one of and twelve other men, of whom some Testaments, twenty-five which he sold without the slightest ficulty difarmed with muskets, suddenly were in the single lage presented themselves. vilinterruption They instantly made Victoriano prisoner; Arganza ; the poor labourers and, after his head for proand the books on bargo showeringblessings layingan emviding seizing them with such good books at an the pony, proceeded, amidst on much abuse, to drag the captiA'e to easy price. Not more than eighteen of his books what they denominated their prison, a remained, when he turned off the high loM^ damp apartment with a littlegrated road towards Fuente la Higuera. This window, where theylocked him up and left him. well known At the expiration of threewas place already" tolerably to him, he havingvisited it of old,when hour quarters of an they again appeared, he travelled the country in the capacity and conducted him to the house of a vender of cacharras of the curate, where earthen or they sat dovrn in He stated conclave that he the was a man : pans. subsequently curate, who felt some whilst the whilst the blind, tan sacrisstone on misgiving presiding, way, the village had invariably borne a officiated as secretary. The surgeon as bad reputation. On his arrival,after | having stated his accusation against the his had iutie prisoner detected or having put up cavallejo namely,that he him in the fact of selling he proceeded version of a to the pony at a posada, alcaide for the purpose of asking in the vulgar tongue missionthe Scriptures perthat j the curate to sell the books, which toriano, proceededto examine Vicand place dignitaryimmediatelygranted. He askinghim his name entered a house and sold a cop}-, of residence ; to which he replied that now and likewise a second. Emboldened his name Victoriano was Lopez, and entered Villa he tliat he native of a was a third, Seca, in which, by success, the the Toledo. The it appeared, barberof then to curate belonged Sagra of demanded the This what he village. religion professed? surgeon personage and whether he was a Mahometan or having just completedhis dinner,was
or

His entire stock consisted

of

"

"

seated in

an

arm-chair

within

his door-

freemason? that he
was

and
a

^vay, when

Victoriano made

his appear-

received for answer Roman Catholic.

CHAP.

XLVI.1

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
usual.
" "

267 Biienas Bvenas send

here state that Victoriano,though in his M-ay, "was shrewd a sufficiently of and old labourer sixty-four; poor
must

as

alcalde. did afternoon

" "

said the voclies," iiudicstemja usted,"

"

Victoriano. replied
you ?" demanded

For the

what soga

until either

that

moment

had
or now

never

heard

for the

purpose this

of Mahometans

freemasons.

functionary.

The curate called him

incensed, becoming and tunante or scoundrel,

have have sold your
been

I sent for no soga," said the prisoner, I sent for my to serve as a alforjas it You
Avas are

added, heretic;we
"

You

soul to
aware

and pillow, chance."

"

sent
a

in them

by

your
master.

long and proceedings,

You he
are

of your

false malicious

those
same

of from

knave," retorted
to

the

Lopez
the ruin
at our

hang

the alcalde ; " you intend and yourself, by so doing be laid No Give
can me

whom

last year

rescued

us

as all, your death would

in the provinceof of Villallos, prison Avila ; I sincerely hope that he will thing here." attempt to do the same Yes, yes," shouted the rest of the
"

door.

the with

soga."
to
a an

greater insult
of

be him

oflered Poor

niard Spa-

than to tax flew into he

intention
ano Victori-

committing suicide.
a

conclave, "let
and
our we

him In this
an

but

venture

here,
on

will shed half nearly up the

once

his heart's
manner

blood

violent rage ; and, after the alcalde several very uncivil calling
names,

stones." for

they
At last

went

pulled the
and

on

hour.
to his

they

bags,fiungit at his
to take it home

his soga from and Iiim told head,

use

broke

meeting,and
more

conducted

it for his

own

Victoriano

prison.

neck.

During his confinement he lived of well, being in possession tolerably

money. twice His
a

meals from

were

sent

him

day

the

posada,where

in embargo. his pony remained Once twice he asked or permissionof the who alcalde,

lengththe peopleof the posada pity on the prisoner, perceiving that he v/as very harshly treated for no crime at all ; they therefore determined ing of informto alTbrd him an opportunity
took his and friends of his situation,

At

sent him a pen and inkevery night accordingly concealed in loaf of bread,and and morning with his armed to a horn, guard, in of order and that a piece writing-paper, pretending purchasepen paper, intended for cigars. that the latter was he might write to INIadrid ; but this So Victoriano the letter : but refused him, wrote favour was peremptorily ensued the of sending it of the the inhabitants and all difficulty village now its in the under to ten'ilile as no forbidden destination, were penalties person have carried it for any redare of writing, the means ward. or to afford him village The good people, from him yond behowever, perto convey any message suaded soldier from another of the place, and two a disbanded the precincts who chanced stationed before the window to be at Fueute la village, boys were in quest of work, to charge of his cell for the purpose of watching Iliguera which might be conveyed himself with it,assuringhim that I everything

visited him

to him.

would
one

pay

him

well

for his his

trouble.

day man, watching opportunity, happened from Victoriano at received the li_^tter to sent word beingin need of a pillow, the window it was he who, after the people of the posada to send him : and delivered it which foot all his alforjas on or night, saddle-bags, they travelling in safety did. In these bags there chanced to be to me at Madrid. relieved from my anxiety, a kind of rope, or, as it is called in Spanish, I was now
It that he was in tlie sofja, with which his satchel to the habit of fastening pony's back. The urchins seeingan end of this rope, and had
no

Victoriano,

The

fears for the

to
a

result.

stantly in-

went

friend who
about

of

large estates

is in session posjara, Guadalala Iliguera

hanging

from

the

in which

provinceFuente

furnished is situated,who me to the alcalde to ran instantly alforjas, of Late at evenwith letters to the civil governor ing, give him infonnation. and all the principal the alcalde againvisited the prithoritiesausonerGuadalajara
at the

head

of his twelve

men

these I delivered to Antonio

268

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap.
where himself
as

xlvi.

whom
on

at

his

own

request, I despatched
tion. prisoner'sliberahis
course

the
as

posada
if he
men,

Antonio
were

was
a as
"

the

errand He

of the

lodged prisoner.
the clock ^Nlaria I

first

directed

to

These struck Death

often shouted !"

Fuente alcalde's
what he

la

house,
had
come

Higuera, where, entering he boldly told him

about. The

the

the
to

hour,
the

Ave

heretics alcalde
;

alcalde

at hand, with an expecting that I was of Englishmen, for the army purpose of rescuing the prisoner, became greatly alarmed, and instantlydespatched his

morning at the posada

made
an

the

but
at

Early in the presented himself before entering he

door
to

oration

the

the

in the

street,
have He

saying, amongst
these
to went
are

ple peoother lows felour

things,
who

"

Brethren,
come

the
us

wife

to
on

summon

his

twelve

men

ever, howthat
course re-

rob

of
to

Antonio's
no

there

was

intention

assuring him of having

he time became Antonio and

religion."
with

then and

in

nio's Anto-

apartment, great
or

after

saluting him
that
as
a

to

violence,
In
a

more Avas

politeness,said,
mass

tranquiL
summoned blind

short the

royal
to

high
that him

was

about he had

to
come

be

before sacerdotal

conclave

its

celebrated
invite

morning,
to

president. They at first attempted to frighten him by assuming a loud bullying tone, and talking of the necessityof killing all strangers, and especially the detested Don nio, Jorge and his dependents. Antohowever,
to

go

to

church

with

him.
no

Whereupon
a

Antonio,

though by
and
two
on

means

him,
as

rose mass-goer, and remained on

panied accom-

hours,
the
;

he

told
to

me,

his

knees

cold the

stones,

his

gi-eat discomfort

who
to

was

not

person

apt

allow

himself
at

scoffed them

their letters

easily terrified, threats, and, showing

to

be

eyes fixed

of

the

whole him

upon After

congregation being during the time.

breakfast,
he

mass

and

parted de-

his

the that

authorities he should

of ceed pro-

Guadalajara,
there their
was a on

said the

morrow

and

denounce
that he

Guadalajara, having been already despatched under his arrival, he presented a guard. On
his letters
were

for

Victoriano

lawless Turkish

conduct; adding subject, and that

offer him write the
to

to

the

individuals The with

account
was

for civil

whom nor goveron

should

they

intended. con-vTilsed Antonio's Victoriano

were

they

dare
he

to

would

the

civility, inwas slightest Sublime hearing whom

were

merriment
of
set at

the

venture. ad-

Porte,
best
worms,

in comparison with world kings in the and the who would of

the but

not

fail
of
manner

to

avenge
too

children,
returned
now

any wrongs however distant, in a

to

his

libert}*, embargo at Guadalajara; the governor stating, Ms however, that though it was duty them to detain at present, they should
and the books

placed

in

terrible
to

be

mentioned. The

He

then

be

sent

to

me :

whenever
moreover,
to
cause

I said the
to

chose that

to

his

posada.
to

conclave

claim would

them do

he,
best la in

he

proceeded
and their

deliberate last
on

amongst
to to
morrow

his

ties authori-

themselves,
send

at

determined the

of Fuente

Higuera
the

pi'isoner
and

punished,
had acted
manner,

as

Guadalajara,
hands of the

deliver

him

into the

in the for which

civil governor. Nevertheless, in order of

men

severely they most cruel, tj-rannical rity'. they had no authowhole alfair this affair:
one

be

to

keep
that the

up

Thus of those

terminated

tiemblance

authority,they
armed
at

night
of

little accidents life in

which

chequer

placed

two

door

missionary

Spain.

269

CHAPTER

XLVII.

Termination
Madrid
"

of

our

Rural

Labours
"

"

Alarm
"

of tnc The

Clergv
"
"

new

Goblin-Alguazil
"

Staff of Office

Corregidor
of Luther.

An

Experiment Success Explanation The Pope

" "

a*

in

England
We

New

Testament

expounded
"

Works

the

I ing document in our task of distributstated, proceeded and various with to-morrow success, place, Scriptures upon I determined distance. of March, wheu for I was not starting Talavera, of what seeing it was much

was

at

to-dayin one twenty leagues'

until the middle for the

discouraged by this

purpose

in that town and to accomplish possible bent the neighbourhood. I accordingly my

our course

tirely enblow, which, indeed,did not come mined unexpected. I,however, deterto change the sphere of action,

in that Antonio thither

a

direction, accompanied
Victoriano.
On

and

not

expose

the sacred

volume

to

by
way

and

Camero,

we stoppedat Naval five leagues to village large

seizure at every step v/hich I should take to circulate it. In my late attempts directed my attention exclusively and small towns, in which villages it was quite easy for the government to lars frustrate my efibrts by means of circuI had
to the to the local

the west of Madrid, where I remained three days,sendingforth Victoriano to with small hamlets the circumjacent cargoes of Testaments. had
us

Providence,
hitherto
in these from
to
a

who would, "authorities, the

however,

which

so

markably re-

of course,

be

on

alert,and

whose

favoured
now excursions,

rural
us

withdrew

its

support, and
termination sacred who
:

broughtthem
for in whatever

sudden

placethe

it would be impossible to vigilance which occurs as baffle, every novelty in a small placeis forthwith bruited But the case would be widely about. of the bours mj' la-

offered for sale, different amongst the crowds were writings where I could pursue seized forthwith capital, by persons they were

appearedto

be

upon

the

watch;

with

comparative secrecy.

ISIy

which events compelled to alter my me and intention of proceeding to Talavera,

to return

present plan was to abandon the rural and to offer the sacred volume districts,
at

forthwith

to Madrid.

Madrid, from

house

to

house,at

the

low price same as in the country. This proceedings the other side of Madrid on plan I forthwith put into execution. Having an extensive acquaintance having caused alarm amongst the heads I

learned subsequently

that

our

they had made clergy, to the government, complaint

of the

formal

amongst

the

lower

orders, I

selected

mediately imindividuals to co-opeeightintelligent rate five with me, amongst whom sent orders to all the alcaldes were and in with of the villages, New All these I women. small, supplied great who
to Castile,

seize the

New

Testament

Testaments, and
to all the

then

sent

them

forth
sult re-

exposedfor sale ; them to but,at the same time,enjoining careful not to detain or be particularly
wherever it might be maltreat the person
or

in parishes

Madrid.

The

of their efforts more my

than answered

persons

who

might
exact

to vend it. An attempting of description myself accompanied

be

In less than fifteen expectations. from Naval Carafter return days my hundred six copiesof the nero, nearly life and words of Him of Nazareth had

of these orders ; and the authorities, been sold in the streets and alleys exhorted I hope I may both civil and military, Madrid be were : a fact which with gladness and and their guard against to mention to be on me permitted

my

arts

and

machinations;for, as

the

with

decent

triumph iu

the Lord.

270

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap, xlvii

of the richest streets is the Calle native province, for distribution amongst reside the principalhis friends and the poor. Montera, where merchants and shopkeepers On a certain nightI had retired to of Madrid. in fact, It is, the which famed
street

One

of commerce,

in

and in beinga favourite respect, the far"

rather more than usual,being early I soon fell asleep, slightly indisposed.
rest

with promenade, it corresponds

and

had I

continued
was

so

for

some

hours,

Nefsky

"

of Saint

Petersburg.when supplied might

del

suddenly aroused
I

by

the

Every
with

in this street was its Testament,and the same

house

openingof the door of the small

in which and beheld Maria
enter

ment apart-

be said with

respect
some

to

the Puerto

I started up, with a lamp in Diaz,

lay.

the room. I observed instances, hand, every and that her which in general were features, house,man child, and calm and placid, man-servant a somewhat maid-servant, was wore peculiarly furnished with a copy. startled expression. AVhat is My Greek, Antonio,made wonderful exertions in the hour, and what bringsyou here ? in the
" "

Sol.

Nay,

in

her dividual in-

I demanded. to say justice the door, on Seiior,"said she, closing instrmnentality, and coming up to the bed-side, it is I might have been by occasions, many able to giveso favourable an close upon no means midnight; but a messenger of the spreadof has justentered the Bible in account to belongmg the police There the demanded time and when I to see was a was house, Spain." you. in the habit of saying dark Madrid," I told him that it was for impossible, that in bed. an I thank I Whei'eGod, which, expression your worshipwas could now drop. It were scarcely just upon he sneezed in my face, and said that he would if you were in thirtesn to call a city dark,"in which see you

this quarter ; and it is but

that,but

for

his

"

"

"

"

"

hundred It
a

Testaments in

at

least

were

in

your I
am

coffin. far from

are

He

has

all the
me

look of
a

and circulation,
was now

use. daily

and has thrown goblin,

to account

into

tremor.

that I turned

beinga
Don
cast

timid

of supply

Bibles which
of the

I had

received the
mencement com-

you

aware,
never

Jorge;
my !

person, as but I confess

on

from

Barcelona,in sheets,at
for the

that I wretches

eyes

these heart them

demand

preceding year. The entire Scriptures was

of the within

but police,
me

dies
but

away

my I know
are

than I could great ; indeed far gi'eater the books of as were answer, disposed faster than they could be bomid the by
man

too

well,and what
"

they

capable

of."
"

Pooh," said I,
let him whether he

be under

employed pose. purnot, Eight-and-twenty copieswere bespokenand paidfor before delivery. Many of these Bibles found their way
into the best houses in Madrid. had
a

whom

for that

come

in,I

no prehensio apfear him

be

or alguazil

goblin. hob-

doorStand, however, at the way, that you may be a vritness of what

as place,

The and

takes

it is
at

more

than

probable
hour may

Marquis of
but every

large family,
it, old

that he
to

comes
a

this unseasonable

individual

of

create

disturbance, that he

in possession of a Bible, and have an of opportunity young, was likewise a Testament, which, strange to report to his recommended by tliechaplain the fellow on the former say, were of the house. zealous in of the the Bible propagation agents ecclesiastic. He walked an never was
most

favourable making an unlike principals,

occasion."

One

of my

The I heard
one a

hostess left the apartment, and

out

without which

carryingone

beneath

his

her say a word two to some or in the passage, whereupon there was loud sneeze, and in a monr^nt af^er
at

gown, he met

he offered to the first person he thought likely whom to Another excellent assistant

singular figureappeared
It with
was

way. the door-

that of

very old man,

escaped long ingly elderly gentleman of Navarre, from beneath the eaves of an exceedHe hat. higli-peaked stooped enormouslyrich,who was continually his moved and own on account, along with a considerably, purchasing copies which he, as I was told, sent into his shamblinggait. 1 aiuld not see much
purchase.
was an

white

hair, which

272
with he had

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPALNT.
some

[chap, xlvil
of his
own

respect
lie all the

to

your
uot

might

though alon messenger, be a hobgoblin, of one, and

business the
as

and

cognised re-

appearance the assuredlyanswered the frightening almost and

woman

claimed

he instantly box, which property, and having my it to my He had

by purpose, of the house grimaces

not

paid
matter

the

removed carriage, of
as so

warehouse.
as

considered
it to

the
me.
no

into fits by his hideous convulsions." sneezing

"

little importance, that

he had The the

not

yet mentioned

Corregidor.You
what.
power
at your

are

"

I know

Do
to

you

know

that I have ?

however, had poor corregidor, doubt that it was a deep-laid scheme plunder
and insult him. And

to

imprison you
"

now,

have twenty alguazilsworkinghimself up into almost a frenzy beck and call, of excitement, and have of course he stampedon the ground, " the power, and so had your predecessor, ! Que inexclaiming, Que picardia who situation lost ! his prisoning imnearly famia by
"

Myself. You

full well me ; but you know that you have not the right, I am as not under your jurisdiction, but that of the If I have captain-general.
summons,
a

The motives
never

old system,

people,and
and dreamed.
was

thoughtI, of prejudging imputing to them actions of which they

I then told him

obeyedyour
I had motive I wanted

frankly

it
and

was

simplybecause
what
no

that I

to curiosity

know from for

with

me,

you other

of the circumstance entirely ignorant which he had felt himself by but that if,upon quiry, inaggrieved; I found been that the chest had
tually ac-

whatever.

As
to
assure

imprisoning me,
most

beg leave
my

full consent

you, that you to do so ; the

have
from

removed

by

it forthwith in INIadrid is to be found polite society be it was to and as I am in the prison, at present restored, although my own of the language property. I have plenty ments," Testaa vocabulary more compiling
"

office to which forwarded, I would cause

the

servant my it had been

of

the

Madrilenian

I thieves,

should
or fifty

said
a

I,

"

and

can

afibrd to lose
am a

an have, in beingimprisoned,

excellent There

hundred,

man

of

of completingit. opportunity is much

as for,

to be learnt

even
"

peace, and wish not to have any dispute in the prison, with the authorities for the sake of an

the

Gypsiessay,
finds
"

The

dog that
are

old

chest

and

ti'ots about

bone."

united value
not

of books, whose a cargo would scarcely amount to

at
me

Corregidor.Your
those where of
a

words
Do

dollars," forty He looked for

a

Caballero.
are, and

you

forget

moment,

as

if

presence ? Is this a fitting placeto talk of thieves and Gypsiesin ? you

in whose

of my then, again sincerity, plucking his whiskers, he forthwith

to

in doubt

Myself. ReallyI
"

know it be

of

no

more

unless fitting,
are

the and

proceeded place quarter: ! to prison.

"

attack

me

in

another

would What you say if the for crimes to to whether trivial were England and Spaniards go ; the Lutheranism said. the messenger or enormous, as attempt to overturn It was a long time before I could established there ?" " welcome," obtain the requiredinformation from They would be most heartily
to

But we inxious

wasting time,

am

of

cardia que pique infamia, into Spainfor the purcome pose the religion of the overturning

Pero

know

for Avhat I have

been

country.

summoned

if I replied ever, howat last, more especially corregidor; ; would it came. It appeared that a box tliey attempt to do so by circuI had despatched lijting the Bible,the book of Christians, of Testaments, which to Naval as the English are Carnero, had been seized by even doingin Spain, But is the local authorities, and having been not excellency perhaps your
tlie incensed
"

detained last sent

now

there back
to

for

some

time,

was

at

aware

that the

Pope

has

fair field and is

as Madrid, intended,

it

fair
to

play in England, and

as

permitted
anism Lutherare as

for the hands of the corregidor. appeared, One day as it was at the lying Antonio chanced to enter waggon-office,

make
to

many
over

converts

from He

every go

day in

the week

posed dis-

to

him.

cannot

CHAP.

XLVII.J
foud of

THE
success

BIBLE
; the

IN the the

SPAIN.

273 should retire without

boast, however, of much

are

Peninsula,I

slightest murmur, my heart being people filled with gratitude for to the Lord darkness,and would of exchanging their Gospel privileges having permitted me, useless vessel as of the seed I was, to see ceremonies and at least some for the superstitious which two observances of the church of Kome." during springing years up, the had been 1 that o n On casting stony ground promise repeating my my of the interior of Spain. the books and chest should be forthwith I recollected the difficulties When self himthe declared restored, corregidor had which sudden of came beand all a encompassed our path, I satisfied, sometimes could and ing condescendhardlycredit all that polite excessively the had to acus that far as to say complish went so permitted Almighty : he even within A the last with myself, whether he left it entirely large year.
too to light

embrace smile at the idea

to

return

the

books
"

or

not ;

"

and,"

edition of the New

Testament

had

been

continued

to tell you
to

before you go, I wish that my private is, opinion tion and advisable in all countries that it is highly

he,

of in the very almost entirely disposed in spite of the Ojiposicentre of Spain, the furious cry of the
a

nary sanguia

allow

full and
to

matters, religious

tolerance in perfect and to permitevery

or

and priesthood

the edicts of

ceitful deligious re-

government, and

of spirit

stand religious system merits." to itsown

Such
were

fall according of the

the

words concluding

which I had inquiryexcited, fervent hope would sooner later lead or most to blessed and importantresults. Till of late the name most dreaded in these parts of abhorred and that

of corregidor

Spainwas in general of Martin Luther, who was ceiixiinly groundedon sense of considered as a species and reason. I saluted him respectfully demon, a bub, Beelzeand forthwith and retired, to Belial and performed cousin-gei-man of a man, who, under the disguise promisewith regardto the books ; my and preachedblasphemyagainst wrote and thus terminated this affair. the Highest It almost appeared to me at this time strange to say, ; yet now, this once abominated reform that a religious was ing commencpersonage was of rehad of in Spain; indeed,matters spect. degree spokenof with no slight in their with Bibles had late come to my which, People knowledge, quiring visited me, intheybeen prophesied onlya year before, hands not unfrequently and much with much I should have experienced culty diffiearnestness, of simplicity, for with no slight in believing. degree the writings of the great Doctor Martin, when I The reader will be surprised churches of Madrid, whom, state that,in two indeed, some supposed to be stillalive. the New Testament was expounded regularly It will be as well here to observe, by the every Sunday evening, connected with that of all the names dren curates, to about twenty chilrespective they
not,
were

which, whether Madi'id, his or expressed private opinion

who edition of which I

attended,and Madrid, 1837.

allude
to were

who the The

were

all

the

Keformation, that
known in

of Luther

is the

of providedwith copies

Society'sonly one
churches San

those of

Gines and Santa Cruz, Now I humbly conceive that this fact alone is more than equivalent to all the expense which
the the had Society it had incurred in the efforts which

Spain; and let me but add, that no controversial writings as his are to be esteemed sessing poslikely the slightest weightor authority,
however

making to introduce Spain; but be this as it I certain that it amply recomam pensed may, and unfor all the anxiety me which I had undergone. I happiness
been

Gospelinto

great their intrinsic merit may of tracts, The common be. description written with the view of exposingthe culated of popery, are therefore not calerrors benefit in to prove of much
that much though it is probable Spain, be accomplished by well good might tions selecexecuted translations of judicious from the works of Luther.
2

now

felt that

whenever

I should

be

to compelled

discontinue my

labours in
T

274

CHAPTER
Projected Journey
and the Bible. A Scene
"

XLVIIl.
Friar Seville
"

"

of Blood The

"

The

"

"

Beauties
"

of Seville

"

Orange Trees
"

Flowers^Murillo

Guardian

Angel

Dionysius My

Coadjutors

Demand

for

By

the middle Testaments bear

:

of

many would the

as

April I had sold as I thought Madrid

called
to

them, stopped the courier,burnt

vehick and murdered letters, carried
to

the

the

paltry
chance
an

I therefore
was

for people,

afraid
to

in my overstock

escort, and
passenger

away

any

the

the ransom bringthe book into enormous i I alternative being four shots through contempt by making it too common. the head, as the Spaniards sand had, indeed, a thouby this time, barely say. The upper part of Andalusia was coming becopiesremaining of the edition which I had printed two rapidlynearly as bad as La ously; years previand with

market, and

mountains,where was demanded,

respectto Bibles, every

for

Mancha. La Eumblar

The

last time attacked

at

the mail had the defile of

copy
there

was

it was of, by this time disposed though passed,

by six mounted robbers ; it was to satisfy. guardedby an escort of as many With the remaining copiesof the but the former soldiers, suddenlygalloped from behind a solitary determined Testament, I now to betake venta, and who where little had hithertodashed the soldiers to the ground, myself to Seville, the hoofs taken quite been effected in the way of circulation were by surprise, of the robbers' horses making no noise soon : were preparations my made. of the The of the sandy nature on roads were account at this time in which aca highlydangerous state, on count ground. The soldiers were instantly disarmed and bound to olive trees, I thoughtto go alongwith a conwith voy, the which was dalusia. about to start for Anexception of two, who escaped then Two however, before its amongst the rocks ; they were days, mocked and the tormented by that the number robbers, departure, understanding for nearly half an of people rather fiends, who likewise proposed or to avail themselves of it was shot ; the head to be hour, when they were likely commanded and of the who the ness slowon corporal being reflecting very great, with a blunderbuss. of this way blown to fragments of travelling, and
stilla great demand which, of course, I was unable
was

them,

moreover were

the insults to which

civilians

The which which

robbers

then

burned

the

coach,

frequentlysubjected from the soldiers and petty officers, I determined

to

tlieyaccomplishedby igniting
of the tow with by means their tluy light cigars. The

the letters

risk the whom

journeywith
I carried I had

the mail.
to

This take

resolution

into effect. resolved

of tonio, life of the courier Avas saved by one Anbeen his posthem, who had formerly tilion;

with
with

he was, however, robbed and two horses, departed me, and my the convoy, whilst in a few days stripped.As we passedby the scene of tlie butchery, I followed with the mail courier. the poor fellow wept, We all the way without the

travelled

and, though
and the

usual wonderful accident, slightest my I good fortune accompanying us. might well call it wonderful,for I was running into the den of the lion ; the whole tion
once

cursed Spain a Spaniard, tended Spaniards, saying that he into pass over to tlie Moshortly

of La of
more a

Mancha, with
fortified

the exceji-

and to learn to confess Mahomet, reria, of the Moors, for that any law better than were country and religion the his the much
own.

few

places,being
it

in the hands

of Palillos and

He pointed to the tree where corporalhad been tied; though rain had fallen since, the

his

banditti, who,

whenever

pleased

ground

CH-\P.

XLVIII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN
and him

SPAIN.
I took that I leave of the

211

still saturated with blood, around was of the and a dog was gnawing a piece unfortunate wretch's skull. A friar

friar, telling
him

hoped to Philippi.As it was

meet

againat

my

intention to

remain at Seville for some travelled with us the whole way from mouths, I hire sionaries, misdetermined of the which he in a to I Seville was Madrid house, to ;

Islands,to
for tar), T suppose Indians.

conceived I could live Avith more pine goingto the Philipvacy, priand time more the same at nomically, ecoconquer (para conquisthan in a posada. It was his word, by which such was I found one in every before not the he meant long preachingto suited It to me. situated was During the whole journey respect and
was

he
most

exhibited
so
were

sjTiiptom of the every abjectfear,which operated upon

that he became

in the

Plazuela

de la Pila

Seca,a
at
a

tired re-

in the neighbourhood part of the city, of the distance and

a

him
we

road,and
corn.

deadlysick,and obligedto stop twice in the lay him amongst the green
said that if he fell into the
was a

and cathedral,

short

the gate of Xeres; and in this house,on the arrival of Antonio the

from

He

horses, which
now

occurred abode.

within

hands him
with

of the that

factious,he

lost

few I

days,I
was

took up my
once
more soon

for priest, say

they would
and then

first make him up

mass,

blow

and Seville,

had

in beautiful ample time and

and tliose gunpowder. He had been professor leisure to enjoyits delights of the nately, he told in of philosophy, as surrounding me, country. Unfortuof time the and at of think it San the convents one was (I my arrival, for the indeed their before next ensuingfortnight, Thomas) of Madrid pression, supin generalso but appeared to be grossly the heaven of Andalusia, with black clouds, which he was overcast glorious, ignorantof the Scriptures, which tremendous confounded with the works of Virgil. showers discharged such as few of the Sevillians, We usual ; of rain, as at Manzanares stopped and the marketplace itwas Sunday morning, accordingto their own account, had before. This extraordinary crowded with people. I was ever seen was weather had MTOught no little damage in a moment, and twenty recognised in the hurried of in neighbourhood,causing the pair legs instantly away of who the which, during the rainy Guadalquivir, presently prophetess, quest is her appearance in the house to made a rapid and furious stream, season, which
we

had

retired
on

to

breakfast.
both

to
an

overflow

After
she
an

sides, greetings many in her Latin, to giveme proceeded,

of all that had occurred in

inundation.

its banks, and to threaten It is true that intervals the

sun

were

when occurring from

made

his

account

tlie village since I had last been there, and of the atrocities of the factious in the neighbourhood. I asked her to and introduced breakfast, whom she addressed friar,
:
"

appearance and with his

around

cloudytabernacle, goldenrays caused everything to smile, enticingthe

from the

his

forth butterfly

bush, and
tree, and

the I invariably

her

to

the

lizard from
to

the hollow

in this
"

ner man-

Anne

Domine

Beverendisslme
But her She the for
ing her, and, waxa

facis

adliuc angry,

1 sacrijicium

friar did not understand

anathematized bade
to

witch,and
commenced and which reached

her be

however, not

begone. was, and disconcerted,

vals myself of these interhastypromenade, in O how it is,especially pleasant to stray along the shores of springtide, the Guadalquivir! Not far from the lies a grove called the river, down city, Las Delicias, the Delights. It consists or availed
a

take

Castilian verse,
I departing she

in extemporary singing, the praises of friars h ouses in religious general. On

of trees of various kinds, but more and elms, and is of poplars especially This traversed by long shady walks. grove
sees

into tears, and entreated that I would write to her if I

Seville in

gave burst

her

peseta, upon

is the favourite thei'e

promenade of
one

the

and Sevillians, assembled of the

occasionally
the town duces pro-

whatever
or

safetj'.
wander safet;^',

beauty

We

did arrive at Seville in

There gallantry. black-e}ed Andalu^ian

276 dames

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. XLVIIl,

and damsels, clad in their gracebeneath this the familysit duringthe ful silken mantillas ; and there gallops greater part of the day. In pecially many, eshis longthe Andalusian those belongingto the houses on cavalier,

tailed thick-maned

steed of
suu

Moorish

of the

ancestry. As
is

the

is

it descending,

from this to glance back enchanting placein the direction of the city ; the is beautiful. inexpressibly
mous, enornow

to be found are shrubs, wealthy, orange trees,and all kinds of flowers, and perhapsa small aviary, that no so situation can be conceived cious delimore

prospect
Yonder used Moors.

than

to

lie here

in the

shade,

in the distJhice, high and stands the Golden Tower,

as a

to hearkening

the song of the birds and the voice of the fountain.

but the principal toll-house,

Nothing

is

more

calculated

to

rest inte-

bulwark

of the

cityin
on

It stands
a

the time of the the shore of the and the

attracts

the stranger as he wanders through than a view of these courts, obtained Seville, from

like river,

giantkeepingwatch,
as

is the

first edifice which he On

grated door.

the street throughthe ironOft have I stoppedto

eye of the voyager sti'eam to Seville.

oppositethe tower, of Augustine convent, the ornament the faubourgof Triana, whilst between
the two of barks Farther which edifices rolls the broad

observe them, and as often sighedthat moves up the the other side, my fate did not permitme to reside in such an Eden for the remainder of my stands the noble

quivir, Guadala

days. On spokenof only in a

former and

occasion

I have

the cathedral brief

of Seville, but
manner.

cursory

bearing no
from up is
seen

its bosom Catalonia and the the

flotilla

Valencia.

It is, perhaps, the most and cathedral in all Spain,

so

magnificent though not

as

traverses

bridgeof boats, The water. cipal prin-

regular in
Toledo whole.

its architecture

those
more

of

and

Burgos, is
when

far

objectof
is the Golden of the

this prospect,however, Tower, where the beams

seem

worthy of
as
a

admiration

considered

sun setting

to

be

trated concen-

in a focus,so that it appears as built of pure gold, from and probably that circumstance received the name which the
to

it

now

bears.
can

Cold, cold
remain the

must

It is utterly to impossible and to throughtlie long aisles, raise one's eyes to the richlyinlaid roof, supported by colossal pillars, without experiencing sensations of sacred and deep astonishment. It awe wander is true the of generality is somewhat that the interior, like those of drals, the Spanish cathedark and

heart do

be which

sible insen-

to the beauties of this magic scene,

to justice

which

pencilof

gloomy;

himself Claude were barely equal. yet it loses nothing by this gloom, Often have I shed which, on the contrary,rather increases tears of rapture "whilst I beheld of the effect. Notre Dame it,and listened to the the solemnity thrush and the their melodious inhaled

pipingforth nightingale

of Paris is who and like has

songs in the woods, and the breeze laden with the perorange
land
wo

building, yet to him Spanish cathedrals, it althis of Seville, most particularly

a

noble

seen

the

fimie of the thousand

gardensof
a

Seville :
"

appears trivial and mean, and more town-hall than a temple of the The Parisian cathedral is entirely

Kennst

dn

das

die

citronen

Eternal. and

bluhen?"

destitute of that solemn

corresponds scarcely :

darkness

The
are

interior of Seville with the exterior

the

streets

badly paved, and full of narrow, misery and beggary. The houses are,
for the most

gloomy pomp which so abound in the Sevillian, and is thus destitute of the to a cathedral. principal requisite
In
most
some

chapelsare to be of pictures with a quadrangularpatioor fashion, particular, stands a in the centre, where court of the master-pieces of Murillo, many marble Of all the pictures a native of Seville, fountain,constantly distilling These of the courts, during of this extraordinary limpid water. one man, the time of the summer vered least ci'lebratedisthat which has always heats,are cowith a canvas over the most on awning,and me profoundim"wrought
of the

part,built in the Moorish

found

of the very best the Spanish school ; and, in

CHAP.

XLVIII.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

277

I heartily the loss of the book-s regretted pressiou. I allude to the Guardian which had de small been la and which a I seized, Giiardia), Angel (Angel could of the bottom which at stands no longer hope to circulate in picture the church, and looks up the principal these parts,where much so they were wanted but I consoled aisle. The a angel, holding flaming myself with ; that I had still several sword in his right hand, is conducting the reflection, at my disposal, from the distribution the child : this child is,in my opinion, hundred of which, if it pleased of all the creations wonderful the Lord, the most fant a blessed harvest might stillproceed. of Murillo ; the form is that of an inI did not commence five years of age, and the for operations is for of I the in some was a countenance time, quite expression strange place, and scarcely it is the tread knew what course but the tread to purinfantine, sue. I had no assist me of a conqueror, of a God, of the Creator to but one about
"

of the imiverse
I

appears
The

globe poor Antonio,who was ; and the earthly beneath its majesty. the place as myself. to tremble
of the cathedral is in
a

as

ignorantof

ever, howProvidence,

when especially general well attended,

in rather soon sent me a coadjutor I was in manner. singular standing the court-yard is to be of the Reyna Posada, it is known that a sermon where I occasionally temporaneous exare a dined, when preached. All these sermons fying, edithem of and are dressed some man, singularly cally giganti; I and faithful to the Scriptures. tall,entered. was My curiosity and I inquired have often listened to them with pleaof the master sure, excited, of the house who he was. much He informed to surprised though I was who a had quoted me that he was remark, that when the preachers foreigner, resided a considerable time in Seville, the Bible,their quotations from were taken from the apoalmost ing invariably cryphal and he believed a Greek. Upon hearthe this,I instantly to went writings. There is in general up and accosted him in the Greek lack of worshippers at the principal stranger, no in which, though I speak it for the most shrines women language, partI can make of whom to be animated myselfunderstood. very ill, appear many in the same He replied with the most fervent devotion. tered idiom,and,flatI had flattered myself,previous to by the interestAvhich I,a foreigner, Madrid, that I expressedfor his nation, not slow was departure from my in communicating to me should his history. experiencebut little difficulty He told me that his name in the circulation of the Gospel in was DionyAndalusia, at least for a time,as the sius,that he was a native of Cephaject lonia, and had been educated for the field was new, and myself and the oband mission less known of my his temper, church, which, not suiting
"

service

dreaded
at

than had

in New

Castile.

however,
Madrid

that the

It aphe had abandoned, in order to follow peared, the profession of the sea, for which he government had many
an

mitting transfulfilled its threat, orders throughout Spain for

found. the seizure of my books wherever drid Mafrom arrived Testaments that The
were

early inclination. That after adventures and changes of fortune, he found himself one morning on

seized

to

which

place
from

the custom-house, val, all goods on their arriat

the coast of Spain, a riner, shipwreckedmaand that,ashamed to return to his

own

country in poverty and

tress, dis-

the interior, he had remained in the Penincarried, sula, are even in order that a duty be imposed upon where at residing chiefly Seville, of them. the he trade small now carried a in on Through management of I He said he books. that the of one however, was Antonio, procured the two

down
a

to

whilst the other was chests, San Lucar, to be embarked

as
soon as

sent

Greek

to religion,

which

he

professed

for

land foreign

I could

make

ing discoverstrong attachment, and, soon that I was a Protestant, spoke with unbounded of the papal abhorrence its of in ral, followers system ; nay, genewhom "he called Latins, and whom

arrangements for that purpose, raged I did not permitmyselfto be discou-

although by this slight contretemps,

2 78

THE

BIBLE
own

IN

SPAIN.
whatever barbarous
was

[CHAV. XLVIII.
not

he

charged with

the
as

ruiu

of his

Greek

as

terly uttirely en-

countiy, inasmuch

it to the Turk. It instant; y struck me, that this individual would he an excellent

they sold

assistantin the work

me

which

had

brought

to

Seville, namely,the propagation

dered
and bad. his of character, strength of rude obtained such
a

Though
and

destitute of education,he bad, by

by
over

kind

eloquence which

he possessed,

mastery

of the eternal after he

some

classes of Gospel; and,accordingly,the minds of the labouring that assented almost more conversation,in which to Seville, they considerable
to

exhibited views

I learning, He entered

everything he
the shocks which

said, notwithstanding
their

explained myself
into my
the

my
a

were prejudices though continually receiving. So that, alI had no he was he could at to regret reason a sequel, foreigner, he having disposed of the Massauiello confidence, any time have become

him.

with

eagerness,

and, in

considerable and
even

number of

of New
to two

ments, Testasend
a

of Seville.
never

A and

more

honest
soon

creature

contrived
to copies

saw,

found

that if I

certain
towns
at

number
some

small

distance from

Seville.

his ecemployed him, notwithstanding centricities I might entertain perfect

Another the of

helperin the circulation of confidence that his actions would be no to the book he vended. Gospel I found in an aged professordisparagement We music, who, with much stiffness and were continually pressed for
much that
was

united ceremoniousness, excellent and his

which Bibles, I time made it would

aware

of

course

we

could held in

not
paratively com-

admirable.

This

rable vene-

supply. Testaments
the have of three learn. of

were

individual, only three days after

had made
the of six Testaments price he A had
an

littleesteem. been well

I had
a

by this
I been
we

acquaintance, brought me and a Gypsy

sold under
sun.

of discoveiy years I mean

fact which
:

had the

Gospel,which
heat of
his He motive? who rendered

the
was

before

but

Andalusian

What
one

live and

ency inexpedi-

Christian
then

truly.
men, countrydering mur-

said that his unfortunate

were

robbingand

The

each

other, might probably be

better by the readingof the be injured. understand in the New Gospel, but could never Testament, the foundation of which is the Old. had been reAdding, that many a man formed Search the Scriptures, for they bear witness of but that no by the Scriptures, ever one to this pointme," may well be applied yet became a thief or assassin from its perusal. It may be replied, that New ments TestaBut in most are demand extraordinary my agent separate great whom I occasionally one in England, but was employed and of infinite utility in circulating the Scriptures England,thanks be to the Lord, is not amongst the lower classes. I might have turned the a papal country ; and though an English
"

taments Testaments, and Tesprinting for Catholic countries. alone, is plain reason : the Catholic, used unfinds a thouto Scripture sand reading, thingswhich he cannot possibly

services of this individual to far greater had the quantity accoimt of books at my been disposal greater; but theywere now and as I had no diminishing rapidly, almost hopes of a fresh supply,I was tempted to be niggardof the few which

labourer and derive

read may it from the

Testament,
blessed

most

it does not follow that a Spanish fruit, Italian peasant will enjoy similar or
success,
as

he which

will

find

with things

the other

dark many is well acquainted,

remained. tom, who

This
had been

agent

was

Greek

and

bricklayer, by name Dionysius. He

was

Johannes introduced
a

Chrysos- beingversed in to me by his childhood.

of the that in my

competent to understand, the Bible history from

I

confess,however,

native

summer

campaign
not

of the
complished ac-

Morea, but had been upwards of thirty- precedingyear, I could

five years in Spain, so that he had almost
lost his entirely native with
me permitted

have

Bibles
to

what

dence Provitaments, Tes-

language.
to

vertheless, Neown

effect with

his attachment

his

the former for rural

beingfar too

bulky

country

was

so

strong that he consi-

journeys.

280

THE left it behind, then road hoofs thiindering the de vaulted

BIBLE

IN
lower

SPAIN.
classes their
are a

[chap. xlix.
shade
or

had

dashing through
of the
were
soon

tM^o
:

better

the elm-covered

Delicias, than
heard of the
ment mo-

in superiors

station

it little, of their

his

is true, can

be said for the tone

beneath Puerta the

archway

Xerez, and
of

in another

morality ; theyare overreaching, relsome, quarand revengeful, but they are

upon the whole
more more

he would door

stand stone-still before

house solitary in the

courteous, and

ignorant. my The Andalusians in general silent square of the Pila Seca. little are held estimation o'clock at night, I am It is eight the of turned in the lowest rerest by ing standthe Spaniards, from the Dehesa, and am those in opulent even flat roof of my circumstances the sotea, or on some at finding difficultythe cool breeze. hannes JoMadrid in procuring admission into respectable house, enjoying where, if they find Chrysostom has justarrived society, from his labour. I have not spokento their way, the objects they are invariably
him,
but I hear him below in the courtyard, the progress to Antonio detailing in the last two of and from ridicule, the absurd airs
"

not ceitainly

days. He terlarded inbarbarous their curious Greek, plentifully accent, and the speaks with Spanish words; but I in which theyspeak incorrect manner that he has and pronounce the Castilian language. gatherfrom his discourse, sold twelve Testaments In the a word, Andalusians,in all already among
I hear estimable traitsof character, are as far copper and the the other tonio, Anbelow the as try counfalling Spaniards pavement, is not of a very Christian who which is in inhabit they superior him for and the other not to having beauty fertility temper, reproving vinces prohis fellow coin labourers.
on

he has made

in which grimaces theyindulge, their tendency and exaggeto boasting ration,

of broughtthe proceeds He
now

the sale in silver.

as

of Yet

Spain.

asks for fifteenmore,

is he says the demand and that he shall have of disposing

morrow,

becoming great, in no difficulty

course

be suplet it not for a moment posed that I have serting, any intention of asthat excellent
; it was

and

estimable

them

in the

of the

individuals
that I have
most
ever

are

not to be found

whilst Antonio stands be

pursuing his occupations.

goes to fetch them, and alone by the marble wild

the Andalusians

amongst amongst them

he

now

a fountain, singing

believe Greek which

to

h}Tnn

I song, which of his beloved

I myself discovered one, whom hesitation in asserting to be the character that has extraordinary within the sphere of my knowledge come
no

church.

Behold one of the helpers in my the Lord has sent me

on

; but this was

or

no
"

scion of
no wearer

noble of soft

Gospel labours Guadalquivir.

the

shores

of the

knightlyhouse, sleek highly perfumed no clothing,"

of the romanticos who personage, none attitudes about the walk in languishing
streets

I lived in the greatest ing retirement durtime that I passed at the whole

of

with Seville, but

one

long black

hair the

Seville, spending the greater part

each

of

hangingupon
curls
:

their shoulders

in luxuriant

day in study, or in that half which is the dreamy state of inactivity

natural effect of the influence of a warm little in the chaThere climate. racter was of the
me

of those whom

the dregs of proud and unfeeling stjle the populace, a haggard, houseless, niless penman,
to
"

peoplearound
much of into the

to

induce

Manuel, the
seller of

in rags and tatters : I allude what shall I call him?

"

to enter

society.The
are

lotterytickets,driver
in thou
;

of
art

higher probablyupon
and
taste

class

Andalusians
the most with beings,

death still

the whole

vain
a

carts, or poet laureate whether songs? I wonder

Gypsy
thou

foolish for

of human

living, my

friend

Manuel
"

ments,

nothing but sensual foppery in dress, and

Their insolence

anuise-

ribald is

discourse.

only
their The

forming honest, pure-minded, humble, yet dignified still wandering being! Art thou
nature's

gentleman of

their meanness, and by their avarice. prodigality

by equalled

through
coro,
or

the
on

courts

of beautiful of the Len

Safa-

the banks

Baro,

CHAP.

XLIX.]
fixed

THE in vacancy, recall some

BIBLE
and

IN

SPAIN.
no new

281

thine eyes

thy

in Seville ! where least Books could least but nothing from ! trim the Would

one

reads, or
and
a

at

mind
thou

to striving

gotten half-for-

romances,

lated trans-

couplet of Luis Lobo; or art gone to thy long rest, out beyond

French,
I
were

obscenity. Gypsy and

I
were

the Xerez

gate within the wall of the Santo, to which, in times of to pest and sickness,thou wast wont and in so Gentile, Gypsy many, carry

Campo

donkeys,for then and were independent

than
"

at
spected re-

more

am

at

present.
kind of books

Of Mi/sclf.
"

what

does

thy
in
when

cart

of the

bell ? tinkling universal

Oft

in

the reunions of the lettered and this land weary of of the

learned

your stock in trade consist ? Of those not Dioni/sius. Seville of of

likelyto
many which I

literature, suit the

them

market, Kyrie; books Greek,

of pedantry display

and intrinsic value; sterling in ancient

and
the

egotism,have I recurred with yearning to our Gypsy recitations at

old house in the Pila Seca. when

picked up
were

Oft, convents,
and
at

the dissolution of the upon when the contents of the libraries hurled into the

sickened by the high-wrought of those who bear the cross professions in gildedchariots,have I thought on without pretence, thee, thy calm faith, in patience poverty, and fortitude ^thy when in affliction thinking ; and as oft, of my speedily approachingend, have I wished that I might meet thee once and that thy hands might helpto again,
"

there sold and

by
was

the arrobe.

court-yards, I thought

firstthat I

in any
an

about to make tune, a forin fact my books would be so other place fered ; but here I have ofElzevir
starve

for half
were

dollar in vain.

I should who

it not for the strangers

of me. occasionally purchase is a large cathedral the dead bear me man's acre to and canons city, aboundingwith priests ; O Manuel ! surely of these occasionally visit some yonderon the sunny plain, visitor was of classicworks Dionysius, you to make purchases My principal

Myself. Seville
"

"

"

who

seldom

came

his appearfailed to make ance the : poor fellow every for sympathy and converpation. forenoon

and

books

connected

with ecclesiastical
think so,

literature.

Dionysius.If
"

you

Kyrie,

It isdifficultto

imaginea situationmore

you

know

forlorn and isolated than that of this with scarcely with many a Greek at Seville, man,
"

little respecting the ecclesiastics of Seville. I am acquainted

of

them, and

can

assure

you

be depending beingscan scarcely for subsistence on the miserable pittance found with a more confirmed aversion few books, to intellectual pursuits to be derived from selling a of every kind. for the most about from Their reading is confined to newspapers, part hawked door. What could have first which door to ing theytake up in the hope of seein induced you to commence that their friend Don Carlos is at bookselling Seville ?" said I to him, as he arrived lengthre-instated at Madrid ; but they their chocolate and biscuits, one and sultryday, heated and fatigued,prefer that
a

and single acquaintance,

tribe of

"

with

small

bundle

of books

secured

together by a

leather strap. of a better For want Dionysius.

"

of nap before dinner, to the wisdom Plato and the eloquence of Tully.They
visit me, but it is only to occasionally hour in chattering a heavy pass away
nonsense.

ployment, em-

Kyrie, I have adopted this and most unprofitable despised one. Ofr have I regretted not having been bred up as a shoemaker, or having learnt in my other useful youth some for would I follow it handicraft, gladly
Such, the respectof my
now.

Once
in the

on

time three of them

"

came,

to

nior

vert making me a consuperstition.SigDonatio," said they,(for so they

hope of

their Latin
"

called

at

would least,
me

procure

me

much inasfellow-creatures, all now with contempt me upon have I to offer in this about ? Books cares
; but

an judiced unprelike yourself, a man person ledge, to knowreallywith some pretension can

me,)

how

is it that

as

they needed
and look

stillcling to this absurd many years in

a

gion reli-

avoid

me

of yours ?
so

after havingresided Surely,

; for what

civilizedcounto

that any place

one

it is high time tiy like this of Spain,

282

THE form half-pagan

enter

BIBLE
of
ship, wor-

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. xlix.

abandon and church shall be

;

your
to
now

the

bosom

of the

none

pray be advised, and you the worse for it." " Thank
"

and thi'Gypsy vagabonds who thatched, first peopled it had escaped from the hands of justice." SigniorDonatio, and insolent heretic, you are an ignorant
"

I replied,for you, gentlemen," take

the interest

in my welfare; I am you conviction to always open ; let us proceed to discuss the subject. What are the
meet
course

what nonsense is this! ." I will not weary your ears, Kyrie, with all the absurdities which the poor Latin Papas poured into mine; the
. .

withal:

But

of points your well and

which religion ? approbation You acquaintedwith my ceremonies."

"

do not
are

burden what

of
our

nonsense

of their song being invariably, is this! which was tainly cer-

all

that I was than their match religion, more Signior your absurd in is a very Donatio, save that it religious controversy, they fell foul " of my one, and therefore it is incumbent Spain is a better upon country. " and formed well-inthan Greece,"said one. an You unprejudiced counti-y you, as
man,
to
renounce

dogmas nothing about

We

know

themselves

applicable enough to what they ever, howwere saying. Seeing,

it."

"

But,

never

tasted bread

before you
" "

came

to

And little nothingof my Spain,"cried another. I. You religion, never why call it absurd ? Surelyit enough since," thought before saw is not the part of unprejudiced such a city to said as Seville," people the third. that of which But then ensued the are best disparage they rant" ignoBut, Signior Donatio,it is not part of the comedy : my visitors chanced the Catholic Apostolic Roman to be natives of three different places religion, ; is it?" It may of Seville, for one another of Utrera, be, gentlemen, was and the third of Miguel Turra, a misewhat you appear to know of it ; for your rable I will tell in La Mancha. At the information,however, village you that it is not ; it is the Greek Apostolic mention of Seville, the other two stantly infor of their religion.I do not call it catholic, began to singthe praises it is absurd to call that catholic which of birth ; this brought respective places is not and a violent dispute universallyacknowledged." on comparisons, the consequence. Much abuse But, SigniorDonatio, does not the was for itself? What between can whilst I stood matter a them, passed speak by, Greek barbarians know and said tiposet of ignorant shrugged my shoulders, tas* If they set aside the At last, about religion ? the as they were leaving should o f whence I Who would have said, authority Rome, they house, derive any rational ideas of religion? thought,gentlemen, that the polemics of whence the the and Latin should they get Greek churches were Gospel?" ? Allow The Gospel,gentlemen connected with the comparaso me closely tive
" " " " *'

gentlemen, if j^ou

know

to show

you

what book, here it is, it ?"

mean are
"

is

merits of

Seville, Utrera, and

the

^li-

your

of opinion what

tio, DonaSignior ? What racters cha-

guelTurra?"
Is Mijself.
"

does this ?
"

of proselytisra spirit

of tliedevil Moorish them ?" Who I

these, are

they

very

is able to understand

here ? Of what descripprevalent tion of people do their converts rally gene"

being Roman
to the

your know priests,

suppose

of Latin ; if you

bottom, you
of your own Lord our the

consist ? worships, I will tell you, Kyrie ; something Dionijsins. the the of inspect title-page generality their converts consist will find,in the language of German or English Protestant ad-

church,
and

'

the Gospel Jesus of which With

A'enturers,who
in
to
course

come

here to settle, and take

to

of

Saviour

of time

themselves

in Christ,'

Greek, original

wives

from

prior amongst the Spanish,

your vulgateis merely a and not a very correct one.

to

translation,
spect re-

which

of the

it is necessary to become bers memLatin church. A few are Gibraltiir

or

the barbarism
not
a

was

that you are and a city,

aware

it apof Greece', pears that Athens

vagabond Jews, from

who have

gier, Tan-

fled for their crimes into

famed

before the firstmud

one, centuries cabin of Rome was

Nothingat

all.

CHAP.

XLIX.]
who
renounce

THE

BIBLE

IN
our

SPAIN.
exertions in Seville. anecdote the I cannot
:
"

283

Spain, and
from

their faith to

Tliese gentry, escape however, it is necessary to pay, on which for them tlie priests account procure

starvation.

here
two
at

an relating

help day or
to

subsequent,having
the his house my of

occasion

call

or padrinos godfatliers ; tliese generally

specting headborough repassport,I found him lying

consist of rich devotees

over

whom

the

on

bed, for

it was

the hour

of

siesta,

of the Testaments and who one esteem have influence, readingintently priests which he had taken away, all of which, it a glory and a meritorious act to assist if he had obeyed his orders, would have in bringing back lost souls to tliechurch. in the office of the civil been The vinced deposited neophyteallows himself to be conSo intently, the promise of a peseta a day, governor. indeed,was he on vhich is generallypaid by the godengaged in reading,that he did not at fathers for the first year, but seldom
a

for ago,
table no-

first observe

my

entrance

when

he

period. About longer however, they made

convert.

forty years
a
w^ar

somewhat
arose

civil the

in Morocco,

caused
of
two

by

sions separate pretento

did, however, he sprang up in great confusion,and locked the book up in his cabinet,whereupon I smiled, and told him to be under no alai-m, as I was

brothers

the

throne.
over

One
to

of

these

being worsted, fled

He slow
soon

of Spain, imploring the protection lY. became

to
an

glad to see him so usefiilly employed. Recoveringhimself,he said that he had read the book nearlythrough,and that
he had found
no

Charles
who

ject ob-

harm
to

in

it, but, on

the

Adding, priests,contrary, everything praise. he believed that the clergy be posmust convertinghim, sessed with devils {endemoniados) and induced Charles to settle upon him to persecute it in the manner of a dollar per day. He died a pension they did. It was spised few years since in Seville,a deSunday when the seizure was some and I happened to be reading the left He behind him made, vagabond. of the One when and who is a at present Liturgy. alguazils, a son, notary, ing goobservation an ing respectoutwardlyvery devout, but a greater away, made in which the very different manner hypocriteand picaroondoes not exist. and the Protestants his Catholics could I would see face,Kyrie, keep the you I think Sabbath ; the former being in tiieirown Iscariot. it is that of Judas houses a reading good books, and the siognomist. phyyou would say so, for you are latter abroad in the bull-ring, He lives next door to me, seeing the wild bulls tear out the gory bowels his pretensions and notwithstanding to of the poor horses. The bull amphiin a is permitted to remain theatre religion,
attention of particular
were

the

not

in

state of

great poverty.
now

at

Seville

is the

finest in all

And

nothingfarther for the present Dionysius.

the middle
at

about About
was

of

July our
no

work
for the
more

concluded

Seville,and

on a Spain, and is invariably Sunday (theonlyday on which it is open)filled with applaudingmultitudes. I now for leaving made preparations

that I had very eJQ"cient reason Testaments to sell ; somewhat than

two

Seville for

few months, my

destination

more

being
who which

hundred

having

been

lated circu-

the coast of did not wish

were

Barbary. Antonio, to leave Spain, in

and
turned children,re-

since my

arrival.

his wife

in a hanato Madrid, rejoicing days before the time of with which I presented am gratuity speaking,I was visited by some intention to return various As it was accompanied by a him. alguazils, my and horses who house to Seville, kind of headborough, made I left my a small I and Gypsy Goseizure of Testaments pels, in the charge of a friend in whom could confide,and departed. which happened to be lyingabout. induced me which to This visit was far from beingdisagreeThe reasons able visit ing I considered it to be a to me, as Barbary will be seen in the followproofof the effect of chapters. very satisfactoiy

About I which

ten

28^i

CHAPTER

L.

Night

Strand Guadalquivir Gospel Light Bonanza Chest Cosas de los TheTwo Scenery" History of a Ingleses Red Christian Nightcap" Tlie Steam Boat Language.
on

the

"

"

"

of

San
"

Lucar
The

"

Andnlnsian
Driver
"

"

"

Gypsies

The

"

On

the

nightof
from

the

31st of

I Jiily

parted de-

who

were

on talking

the

deck,

which It

goingon plyon
was

I thoughtmy best planwould be to reSeville upon tire tion, expedimy and enjoy some board one of the steamers to the cabin rest, if possible. and the Guadalquivir between The cabin was solitary

Seville and

Cadiz.

intention to stop at San my the Lucar, for the purpose of recovering had been which chest of Testaments

sengers
either on cool,all its windows tolerably side beingopen for the admission of air. Flinging myselfon one of the cvishioned

benches, I
state

was

soon

in asleep,

whi":h

placed in embargo there, until such from the time as theycould be removed of Testaments These kingdom Spain.
for distribution amongst the I hoped to meet on Christians whom is the shores of Barbary. San Lucar I intended about fifteen
at

I continued I
was a

when

for about two hours, aroused by the furious

of biting
me

thousand
to seek the

bugs, which

pelled com-

myself in
asleep.
from San It
was were

my
near

deck, where, wrapping cloak, I againfell

leaguesdistant from

ville,awoke Setowards

; we

then
I

daybreakwhen I about two leagues

arose

of the bay of Cadiz, the entrance the of where the yellow waters

Lucar.

and

looked
the

Guadalquivir unite
The
or

with

the

brine.
and

steamer

shot from
at about
a

the littlequay, it was the voices

the east, watching dual graof dawn, first the dull progress then the streak, then the tinge, light,

then the brightblush, till at last the golden disk of that orb which giveth mensity, shore wishing day emerged from the abyss of imof those on on the the whole and in farewell to their friends. a moment Amongst I thought I could distinguish covered with brightness tumult prospect was friends of my own and glory.The land smiled, the waters the accents of some and who had accompanied me the birds to the bank, men arose sparkled, sang, voice from and and their raised my I instantly own : rejoiced places resting for it was louder than all. The day, and the sun was gone nightwas very

wharf,
arose

nine, half-past
"

then

loud cry board and

dark,

so

much

so,

indeed, that

as

we

passedalong we

could

guish distinscarcely

of its Creator, the and the and gladness, of light diflFusion forth
on

the errand

the eastern the trees which cover shore of the river until it takes its first
tum.

of dispelling
"

darkness

and

sorrow.

Behold

had reigned A calmazo during run, day at Seville, by which is meant weather, unenlivened exceedingly sultry But where the Gospel comes, The breeze. the night slightest by It spreadsdiviner light; and sultry. As I calm their tombs, It calls dead sinners from likewise was And made the voyage of the givesthe blind their sight." had frequently "We ing now stopped before Bonanza : ascendingand descendGuadalquivir, the port of this celebrated river, I felt nothing this is,properly speaking, it is half a league San Lucar, although which of that restlessness and curiosity the latter place. It is in a strange place, distant from peopleexperience of its good called Bonanza accoxmt on in light and whether or darkness, being and its secured from other *he with none of anchorage, being acquainted pasthe
"

the morning sun logins his glorious way ; His beams through all the nations And life and light convey.

CHAP,

L.]

THE
of the
ocean

BIBLE
; its

IN

SPAIN.
who description, nested have
was now

285

the boisterous winds literal meaning is

"

fair weather."

It

of every in wooden noted

there
nished. va-

sheds,which
San Lucar

consists of several
and and few

large white by

ings, buildhouses, store-

itself

principally government
is inhabited
on dependents a

for the thievish

"

always of propensities
in all Andalusia.

the coastguard,

its inhabitants The

the worst

fishermen. those

the custom-house, A boat came off

roguishinnkeeperin Don his education at San Quixote perfected

my All these recollectionscrowded mind as we proceededalong
was

to receive

passengers whose

Lucar. tination des-

on

San Lucar, and to was board about half a dozen who for Cadiz A yoimg
stature
:

bring into
were

the

which strand, the

beautifully gilded
sun.

bound
rest.

I entered

with very

the

by

Andalusian

We San

at

last the

Spaniardof
addressed
as some

nutive dimi-

arrived

to nearlyopposite

Lucar,

to

me

in French

to what

the scenery and climate of covered I replied that I admired both, which evidentlygave liim great pleasure.either The
two

questions which stands at some thoughtof water side. Here itself to Andalusia. presented
with
a

distance from
a
us

livelyspectacle
:

the

shore of

was

multitude

females

boatman reals for

no

now

came

conveying me

while (I speak within demanding in the water slioi-e, hundreds on were

I had
a

small

dollar to

and offered him money, He said that it was change.

impossible.I asked him what was to be done : whereupon he replied, villy, uncithat he knew

selves, undressingthembounds) sporting and playing close by the : some were stretched their full at beach, (m length the sand and pebbles, allowing the littlebillows to dash over bosoms ; whilst others their heads ming swimwere

dressing or

lose time,and
The

and not, but could not stantly. expectedto be paid inobserving Spaniard,
was

boldlyout
a

into the firth. hubbub shrill of female

There

young

confused

cries,

embarrassment, took out two my reals and paid the fellow. I thanked
him for this act of civility, for heartily which I felt really there as grateful ;
are

thin

and shrieks,

likewise
in sunny

were

plets laughter ; coubeingsung, on what

"

it is easy subject

to guess

for

we

were

few situations be in
a

more

unpleasantthan

Andalusia, and what can its or black-eyeddaughtersthink, speak,

but from
on

to

crowd
are

whilst you

of change, sing of importuned by people sounded in want Farther

amor,

amor,

which

now

for payment. A loose character once far preferable that it was told me to be

the land and the waters ? along the beach we perceived

a

likewise
;
we

crowd

of

men

ing bath-

without money
what
course

at to

as all, you then knew

passed
an

not

take.

subsequently to
Cadiz,and
a

met the young Spaniardat him, with thanks. repaid

the left up leads to San

by or alley

them, but turned

avenue

which
be may The view

Lucar, and
mile

which

cabriolets were waitingnear the wharf, in order to convey us to San us I ascended one, and yve proLucar. ceeded side and
A few

slowly along the Playa or This place is famous in the ancient novels of Spain,of that class called Picaresque, those devoted to or
strand. the adventures of notorious

long. fore : bemagnificent truly lay the town, occupying the high hill, top of a tolerably It apextendingfrom east to west. peared

quarter of a from hence was

to be of considerable size ; and I was informed that it subsequently contained habitants inat least twenty thousand

scoundrels,

Several

immense up be but in but the

a

edifices

and walls towered the father of which, as also of all others of the same kind,in whatever language, grandeur which can

is Lazarillo de Tormes. himself has immortalized

Cervantes
this strand in

by words;
object was
an

styleof scribed defeebly principal

ancient

the most amiLsing of his smaller tales. the left. The houses shone and would have La lUustre Fregona. In a word, the strand of San Lucar in ancient

castle towards all white, were

times,

the

sun

had

if not in modern,

for was a rendezvous early hour and contrabandistas, ruffians, vagabonds shade. The

in brilliantly higher; but at this in they lay comparatively

it been
tout

ensemble

Mas

very

286

THE
and times

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
with
me a

Moorish
ancient

oriental ; and, indeed,in San Lucar brated celewas a

to

the

custom-house

of the stronghold
next to

Moors, and,

frequented It may be as well here at once to of these books,which places in Spain. give the history in these of tend to embarrass otherwise the Everything,indeed, might parts Andalusia oriental. is perfectly hold narrative. BeThey consisted of a chest the heavens, as cloudless and as of Testaments in Spanish, and a small those of Ind ; the box of Saint Luke's Gospel in the Gias brightlyazure which tans the fairest cheek tano sun or fiery language of the SpanishGypsies.
most

Almeria,

the

of their commercial

spatche
his head

clerk,

and

much

well known person San Lucar. a t respected

in

moment,

and

wliich

fillsthe air

I obtained

them

from

the

tom-house cus-

flame ; and O remark at San Lucar, with a pass flickering the scenery and the vegetable tions. for that of Cadiz. At Cadiz I was producThe alleyup which we were occupiedtwo days,and also a person whom each side with I employed, in going through on moving was planted that remarkable and in procuring tree or plant, for I all the formalities, which know The not to call it,the giant the necessary expense papers. is called in Spanish, which demanded was at aloe, pita, was great, as money and in Moorish, gursean. It rises here I had I to take, though was every step in this instance, to a heightalmost as magnificent as on simply complj-ing, the African shore. Need with the orders of the SpanishgovernI say that ment the stem, which in removing prohibited from the books springsup of the bush did end The middle farce of green blades, from not Spain.

with

which
need

shoot
as

out

from
as
a

the

root

on

all and

is sides,

high

palm-tree;

until my arrival at Gibraltar, where I paid the Spanish consul a dollar for
on certifying

I say that those blades,which are of an immense thickness at the root, than the pointof at the tipsharper are inflict spear, and would wound animal which on any rush against them
a
a

the
to

back
return

of
to at

the

pass,

which

I had
were

Cadiz, that
the former the but

the books

arrived

It is ti-ue that he never saw ))Iace. advertently books, nor might ininquiredabout them ; terrible ? Lucar he received seemed
at
was

the
to

One
was

of the first houses

at
we

San

alone

for which money, be anxious.

he

the

posada at

which
some

stopped.

"Whilst
Lucar I

the custom-house asked

one or

of San
two

It

confronted,with

others, the

tions ques-

avenue

had come. As it we up which still I betook to rest was early, myself for a few hours, at the end of which

the respecting the chests

:

books
me

contained in
some

this afibrded

of and

speakingof the New

portunity opTestament

I went -sdsit Mr. Philto out Britisli vice-consul, who was with me already acquainted by name, in to him as I had been recommended the lipi,
a

time

I said excited
all the

the Bible Society. "What attention : and presently and

officers and from it

was

house,great

dependentsof the small, were gathered

the governor
to

letter from Mr.

relation

was Phillipi and received me with counting-house, much kindness and civility. I told him

of his at ville. Searound me, in his at home porter. As

the

necessarj- to open the boxes to inspect their contents, we all proceeded to the court-yard, where,

the and

motive

of my

his requested the books obtaining

visit to San Lucar, assistance towards the house, customthem out transport
was quainted very well acdifficulties which

holdinga
know

Testament

from

in order to of the country, as I with the

to

my I said ; for I was much ings, and hurried away by my feelagitated, when I bethought of the manner me what in which woi'ds
to

in my discourse.

hand, I
I

commenced re-

scarcely

the word

of God

was

secuted per-

every
who the
to

one

has any

encounter to

in

Spain
with
sured as-

has

business

transact

unhappy kingdom. My made and impression, evidently

astonishment sent preI sold copy. the walls of the custom-

in this

government
me

authorities.
be most

He

my

every person
a

that he should
me

assist

happy deand, accordingly,

pressedme
several within

for

I'SS

THE
have

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
a

[chap,l.
or

should and
a

mortification tend

lived for prayer, fasting, it stood alone. is wall, on Swimming wine the
to
was

barrel The

two, and

the against

shelves, many
smell

noble

does exercise, but it certainly

to

sizes.

bottles of various of liquors and

not

the
we

either the flesh or mortify As it Avas spirit. becoming dusk, returned

me

very powerful. I settled with driver and a gratuity, gave him he asked safe
me

to
a

the

town,

when

friend bade retired

some

kind farewell.

my I then

whereupon
drink he
to

for

something

to

hours
was

apartment, and my in meditation.

passed
eleven

him

journey. I told my could call for whatever he

It door.

night,ten

o'clock;
"

a pleased:whereupon he demanded of which the master glass aguardiente,

the cabriolet was at the I got in, and we proceeded down the avenue and along the shore, which

o'clock,and

of the house, who had stationed behind the counter, handed

self himhim fellow

without
drank
many

saying
off" at

word.

The
a

deserted. The waves sounded quite s eemed to have mournfully everything ; changed since the morning. I even thought that the horse's feet sounded the as it trotted slowly over differently
was

it
wry

once,

but made

great
no

faces after

havingswallowed
that he made his
me,

said and, coughing, it,

doubt it was
throat
went

as it burnt good liquor, He then embraced terribly.

moist
was

firm sand.
means

The he

driver, however,
inclined
soon

out, mounted
off.

his

and cabriolet,

by no
be

mournful, nor

drove The
now

to

silent I

long :
an

commenced whither I he

old
moved

man

with

the red the

nightcap

asking me
to

of questions as infinity
came

slowlyto
and forward
two

whence I

and

was

bolted drew

otherwise

door,which secured; he

bound.

swers Having given him what anturn, thought most proper, I, in re-

then he

benches, which

asii;ed him had

so

whether

he

was

not

afraid to drive alongthat beach, which at alwaysborne so bad a character, unseasonable looked
an

then: if to intimate to me that there was the candle out my bed : he then blew and retired deeperinto the apartment,
as

and pointed to placed together,

hour.

he

around

him,

and

Whereupon no seeing

person, he raised a shout of and said that a fellow with his whiskers feared not all the thieves that ever walked
men

where I heard him lay himself down and snorting.There was now sighing derision, no farther lightthan Avhat proceeded from
a

small

earthen
water

filled with

pan on the floor, and oil,on which

the

playa,and
Lucar

that

no

dozen be neath be-

in San his

dare to

waylay any
to
was

traveller

whom

laid my carpet-bag I now the bench a good on and flung I myself down. braggart. as a pillow, We but soon saw a lightor two shining should have been asleepinstantly, commenced he of the red nightcap now dimly before us ; they proceededfrom barks and small vessels stranded which a few brought to my snoringawfully,

they knew He protection.

the

floated a small piece of card with a wick in the middle, which ple simlighted of lamp is called species mariposa."
"

specimen of

Andalusian

on

the

sand them

close I

below

Bonanza

mind

that

I had

not

yet commended

two or : I distinguished myselfto my friend and Redeemer three dusky figures. We sank therefore prayed, and then at to now were before our end, and stopped journey's repose. ing durawakened the door of the place where I was than once I was to more for mounting, disand believe the The the I driver, rats, lodge night. nightby cats, knocked loud and long, until leaping upon my body. At the last of the door was openedby an exceedingly these interruptions I arose, and, approaching of of the looked at my about man stout sixty mariposa, years age ; three o'clock. he held a dim watch ; it was lightin his hand, and half-past and dressed red and the door looked out ; in I a was nightcap dirty opened fishermen sliirt. admitted witliout He some entered, us, striped Avhereupon their for : room a word, into a morning draught long clamouring very lai'ge with a clayfloor. A species of counter tlieold man was soon on his feet serving

amongst

Stood on

one

side

near

the door ; behind

them.

One

of the

men

said to me,

that

CHAP.

L.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
about
ten years ago, the banks of the

289

if I

Avas going by the steamer, J had better order my thingsto the wharf the veswithout delay, sel as he liad heard

the Sevil-

coming

down

the

river.

manded being luggage, and then demy I which of the red nightcapwhat

quivir,
lians
"

ran

to

river, ing cry-

spatched denot

which idea was sorcery, sorcery," littlefavoured by the speculation

an

owed
These I heard
was

him.
were

He the

replied, One onlytwo words

"

real." which
:

proceed

from

his moutli
to

he

addicted certainly

silence,and

English one, and the boats, English built,being provided with English engineers, deed, as, intheystillare ; no Spaniard having been found capableof understanding the machinery. They soon, however,
were

neither of which to philosophy, perhaps in I much are practised Andalusia.

now

became boats
are

accustomed in Fanatic

to

them,
vain

and

the

crowded general
and

hurried
not

was

wharf; yet arrived,but

the river

to the

the steamer I heard its

moment
were

with sengers. pasthe Seas

thunder

up

every
face

becomingmore
and
darkness

distinct : there the

mist

villians still are, and bigoted as they remain to their own customs, theyknow instance at least, that good,in one can

the upon and felt I listened I to as awe waters, the approachof the invisible monster of

proceed from
land
a

land,and foreign

that

land of heretics ; inveterate prejudice has been shaken, and we will

of their booming through the stillness of the hope tliat this is the dawn in civilization. at last plashed sight, night. It came the bay of Cadiz, and I was Whilst passing its way over forward, stopped, I of the benches It was the Peninsula, on one board. soon was on reclining walked when the the the best boat on the Guadalquivir. on deck, captain in with another of art What man a wonderful production by ; they company distance from me, and is a steam-boat ! and yet why should a short stopped ask the other,in if we consider its I heard the captain call it wonderful, we low voice,how ? More than five hundred years a languageshe history many That since the idea of making spoke; he replied only one." have elapsed the it the is of first originated said but not was course one," one captain, ; the Spauntil the close of the last century that Christian;"by which name niards the first, styletheir own language,in worthy of the name, made its
"

"

"

appearance

on

Scottish river.

contradistinctionto all others.

"

That

"who long period of time, fellow,"continued the captain, tian minds and skilful hands were is lyingon the deck, can casionally ocacute speakChrisit serves his purpose, busied in attempting move to retoo, when in the mabut he speaksothers, which are by no those imperfections chinery which alone prevented Christian : he can talk English, a vessel means itself made and I of myselfhave heard him chatter in being capable propelling of Triana ; he with the Gypsies wind tide. AH these Gitano and tempts atagainst and in the is abandoned now INIoors, were going amongst successively made their when he arrives in one was despair, country you yet scarcely ventor will hear him, should which was fruitless ; each inpei-fectly you be there, in their gibberish behind him some ment monuconverge as fluently leaving

Daring

this

succeeded last
a

of his labour,of which those who him took advantage, until at fortunate

as no

in

Christiano, nay, better,for

himself.

he is

Christian

thoughtor two, and a several times on board my few more but I do not like him, as I consider perfect arrangements, were time all that were The tliat he carries somethingabout with rived, arwanting. and now, the him which is not good." at length, very This worthy person, on my Atlantic is crossed by haughtysteamers. coming Much of aboard the boat, had shaken me has been said of the utility by the his hand in spreading and expressed steam abroad civilization, me joyat seeing and I think justly. When the first again.
steam-vessels
were seen on

has been He vessel already,

the Guadalu

290

CHAPTER

LI.

Cadiz

"

The

Fortifications The
" "

Consul-General
"

"

Characteristic

Anecdote
"

"

Catalan SteamerLion
"

Trafalgar
the Creator

Alonzo
"

Guzman

Gibil
"

Muza The

"

Orestes
"

Frigate
Queen

The

hostile
"

Worka

oi

Lizard

of the Rock

Concourse

of the Waters

Broken

Prayer.

the green of its in summer evenings: affords stretchingtrees,when viewed from the bay, relief to the eye, dazzled from whose bosom an out into the ocean, agreeable with the glare of the white buildings, the town the salt waters appears to rise, laving its walls on all sides save the for Cadiz is also a brightcity. It was the wealthiest place in all Spain, east, where a sandy isthmus connects it once has of late years sadly but itsprosperity with the coast of Spain. The town, as it exists at the presentday,is of modern diminished, and its inhabitants are continually its ruined trade ; on and very unlike any other lamenting construction, ing abandonwhich account ninsula, which is to be found in the Peare daily town many where it for Seville, at least built with great regularity li\ang being is still, is cheaper. There and symmetry. The liowever, streets are merous, nu-

Cadiz

stands, as

is well

known, upon

long narrow

neck

of land

and the most

intersect each

other, for

much

life and

bustle

in

the

streets,

which are adorned with many splendid right angles.They are of which are in the stj-^le several the in to narrow shops, height comparison very London. The of Paris and of the houses, so that they are almost present is said to amount to eighty cept population imperviousto the rays of the sun, exthousand sovils. when at its mid-day altitude. The that Cadiz It is not without reason street, however, is an excepprincipal tion, tifications has been called a strong town : the forwidth. This it being of some

part at

in which 'Street,

stands

the

Bolsa,

or

on

the land

which side,

wei-e

and which exchange, the

men

contains the houses

the partly the sway the

is and nobility, of the chief merchants as well as grand resort of loungers

of business

during mirable, adof Napoleon, are perfectly and seem wards to: impregnable
sea as

work

of the French

during the eai'ly part

by
rocks

it is defended

as

much

of the the

day,and

Puerta

in that respectresembles It is del Sol at Madrid.

nature

the great square, M'hich, The lancholy though not of very considerable extent, except the landward ones, afford meof Spanishapathyand has many to magnificence, proofs pretensions is made when allowance with large it beingsurrounded even imposing neglect, connected with and planted with houses, marble
seats below

by art, water and sunken bulwarks. beingno contemptible of the town, however, defences

them

fine trees,with for the accommodation

are

cumstances for the present peculiarly unhappy cirof the country. Scarcely a
ones, is gxui, except a few dismoimted which the fortifications, to be seen on that to decay, so are rapidlyfalling

of the public. There publicedifices worthy of much the be considered

few

tion: atten-

chief church, indeed, might of labour a fine monument

this insulated
at

is a* present stronghold
mercy of any

in

some

other it

tlie land than

countries ; but in Spain, almost nation drals, catheof noble and gigantic be

the

foreign

can

decent
an

stylednothing more placeof worship; it

state.

is

which, upon any pretence, or at all,should seek to tear it from none the grasp of its present legitimate possessors,
and
convert

in still

unfinished

There

is a

it into

foreign

walk, or alameda, on the northern colony. public A few hours is generally thronged raraparts, which

after my

I waited arrival,

CHAP.

LI.J
Mr.

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
next
to

291

morning a steamer, the Cadiz for Marseilles, quit raltar, Gibthe way at Algeziras, of the alameda, touching on at the entrance one of and other various of the commands a noble Spain. ports bay, prospect board I had engaged my and is very largeand magnificent.I passage on had of course havingnothing long been acquainted her as far as Gibraltar, ness farther to detain me widi Mr. B. by reputation that at Cadiz ; my busi; I knew with the custom-house having been with for several years he had filled, though advantage to his native country, and broughtat last to a termination, have with honour to himself, I believe I should the distinguished never got kind assistance the and highlyresponsible for situation which but it through this excellent man he holds in Spain. I knew, likewise, of Mr. B. I quitted other that he was and a good and pious Christian, charming friends at a my firm with the and hour late and, moreover, regret. I believe that I enlightened their very best wishes ; friend of the Bible Society. Of all this carried with me
upon
at

Cadiz.

B., the British consul-general Early the His house, which is the corwas ner Balear,

was

aware,

but

I had

never

yet

joyed en-

and,

in whatever

part of the world

I,

in the Gospel's cause, beingpersonally a poor wanderer him chance him. I with to be, I shall not unfresaw now acquainted may for the firsttime,and was much struck quentlyofier up sincere prayers for their and well-being. with liis appearance. He is a tall, happiness built man, Before taking leave of Cadiz I shall athletic,finely seemingly the of advantage relate an anecdote of the British consul, about forty-five or fifty ; there is much dignityin his countenance, which is, characteristic of him and the happy he contrives to exein which cute of manner however, softened by an expression duties of his the most ner disagreeable good humour truly engaging.His manis frank I
am

and

affable in the extreme.

enter

situation. him
we

vras

in conversation

with

not

going to
our

into minute
was

in
were

parlour of his house, when

details of
me
a

interview,which

to

He knew one. very interesting of the leading already history parts my arrival in Spain,and made since my several upon his intimate knowledge of the
comments

of two
were

interrupted by the entrance visitors: they unexpected very the captainof a Liverpoolmerchant-vessel
and
was a

one

of the

crew.

The

it,which

played latter dis-

a Welshman, rough sailor,

who could only express himself in very utterable situation of the country as regards siastical eccleimperfectEnglish. They looked uneach and defiance at and dislike the of state matters, opinion other. It appearedthat the latter had innovation. religious respecting in many and we

pleasedto find that his ideas accorded with my own, points of opinion both were decidedly t he that,notwithstanding great persecution and outcry which had lately been the battle was the Gospel, raised against and that the holy lost, by no means cause might yet triumph in Spain,if
I
was

refused to work, and insisted on leaving had in conthe ship,and his master sequence the him before consul, brought in order that, if he might be which would be the clothes. and wages but the fellow became the persisted,
sequences con-

detailed
This
more
was

to

him,
of his done ;
more

forfeiture and

zeal united with discretion and Christian were humility displayed by those called upon
to

uphold it. Greek," which he would not bear. During the greater part of this and the following day, I was much occupied The word Greek rankled in the sailor's at the custom-house, endeavouringto mind, and stung him to the very core. quainted acobtain the documents Mr. B., who seemed to be perfectly necessary for the
of exportation afternoon of the Testaments. dined On the in with obstinate when them, and who had the character of Welshmen

same to ever dogged,refusing his who, he deck again with captain, berly him Greek, lazylubsaid,had called
"'

tread the

SaturdayI
"

with Mr.

B. and his family an interesting group and his beautiful daughters, his lady, his son, a fine intelligent man. young
"

who are proverbially general, is offered to opposition

saw

at once

pute that the dis-

arisen

on

foolish and

trivial

292
now grounds,

THE

BIBLE

IN and

SPAIN. started He
on instantly was a

[chap.
his

LI.

told the man,

inform him

with of
a

that he would which

way

smile, by

coming on

board. of about wrinkled

he might gain the weather-gage of every one of them, consul, and captain, and all, and secure his wages and clothes;which was by merely going
on

thin,rigid tall, figure with a long, grave, seventj^,

countenance
an

; in

word,

the

board
was

which fellow

Spanishgrandee. very We stood out of the bay, roundingthe of her Majesty, loftylight-house, which stands on a brig-of-war then lyingin the bay. The ledgeof rocks,and then bent our course
was
so.

image of

old

said he

aware

of in

and this,
some

to

the

south, in the
It
was a

direction blue sunny similar

of the

intended to do
and upon his himself he

His

grim features, Straits.

gree, blue deor more

glorious morning,a
ocean

relaxed however, instantly looked the Mr. captain.

to

sunny

sky and
on a

humanely

rather,as my
observed above Our and

friend

Oehleuschlseger
occasion,
two suns,

B. then, addressing made some latter,

has there
one

appeared

two

skies and below.

of using observations on the impropriety the word Greek to a British sailor: not forgetting time to speak at the same of the absolute and

one

of obedience necessity board In about two hours we on passedthe discipline ship. us. every and at noon His words producedsuch an effect, that Castle of Santa Petra, were in a very little time the sailor held out wind in sight of Trafalgar. The now dead and his hand towai'ds his captain, and exwas pressed ahead; on freshened, his willingness which board account to to go on we hugged closely his duty,adding, the coast, in order to avoid as much with him and perfoi'm as which the strong heavy sea that the captain, possible upon the whole, was from the Straits. the best man in the world. So they was pouring down within a very short distance We departedmutually pleased passed ; the consul but making both of them promiseto attend of the Cape, a bold bluff foreland, lowing not of any considerable height. divine service at his house on the folIt is impossible for an Englishman to day. / of the Sunday morning came, and I was on pass by this place the scene board the steamer celebrated naval action on record most by six o'clock. As
"

rather slow notwithstandin progress was the fineness of the weather, probably owing to the tide beingagainst

I ascended the In

the

side,the
was

harsh

sound my

of

"

without emotion.
annihilated that force

Here

it

was

that

Catalan

dialect assailed vessel

ears.

the united
Avere

navies of France

and

Spain

fact,the

Catalan
were

built,
of that

by a
was

and the

and captain

crew

but

far inferior force ; British, and was remarkable

nation ; the greater part of the gers passenquently alreadyon board, or who subse-

directed
men

by

one

of the most

arrived,appearedto
and in seemed
to vie with

be

lans, Cataother A

of the age, and hero of any time. wreck whose

the greatest perhaps of Huge fragments from chafe the the billows

each

stillfrequently emerge

watery gulf burly merchant, however, with a red rocky sides of Trafalgar:they are relics of the enormous face, ships which peakedchin,sharpeyes, and hooked and that terrible the simk b ore otf he burnt were on versed conpalm ; nose, clearly tain with astonishing when heroic the on champion of Briday, eagerness died. I concluded his and work seeminglythe most inditferent subjects,
or

sounds. producingdisagreeable

rather but

on

no

at subject

all ; his voice cofteetwang : he

never

heard
a

but word

one

individual

venture

would mill till

have sounded for forth

a

like a exactly nasal

to

vile

say Nelson's

in it
was

of disparagement
a

: glory

can, pert Amerithe

poured
we

his

arrived

at

who Catalan incessantly admiral Such Gibraltar.

observed, that
was

much

overrated.

British " Can

a never sea-sick,though they that individual be overrated,"replied frequently produce or aggravate the stranger, whose every thoughtwas his country's bent on honour, who der malady in others. We did not get unfor Avithout until e ver we o'clock, leavinga fought eight scarcely past way and who, of Algeziras,piece of his body in tlie fray, waited for the Governor

peopleare

"

C-HAP.

LI.

J
of minor
"

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
mentioned

293

not

to

speak

Avas triumphs, as

victorious in two such actions and Trafalgar ? We

were now

Aboukir

Moorish

coast,

in sightof tlie soon Cape Spartel appearing

dimly through mist and vapour on our had now right. A regularLevanter and and the vessel come pitched on, tossed to a very considerable degree.
Most of the passengers
the governor,
out
: manfully were

times
Alonzo
a

and sung, that land, modern is that spot Spain and modern I have heard the ballad of Tarifa. Guzman in chanted
''

in

hind

the

wilds of of

of

Danish, by Jutland; but

Faithful
"

once some

speaking of
inhabitants

the

to
plied re-

Tarifa, they Tarifa, but

Guzman,
that he

that the
"

theyhad
faithful

never

heard of Guzman
were
"

sea-sick;

with acquainted of the The

most

Alonzo

the
vras
on

however, and
we

myselfheld
a

and one-eyed {clttierto), the Cadiz road.

sat

on

bench

gether,one to-

villanous arrieros

and

entered

into conversation and their country. could not have

more

the Moors respecting Torquemada himself spoken of both with He

abhorrence. he had been

of these narrow can seas voyage tail the to to be interesting scarcely from the most apatheticindividual,
nature

informed

me

that

of the
to the

in frequently

several of the

principalitself

which presents scenery either The side. on eye

Moorish tOAvns of the coast, which he described as heaps of ruins : the Moors themselves he called Caffres and wild
beasts. been
were
even

He
at

observed

that he had the

never

coasts are exceedingly high and bold, which that of Spain, to seems especially but the Moorish to overcrow opposite ; the African continent, Tarifa, rounding

where Tangier,
so insult,

most
some

without civilized,

people encing experithe

towards of mountain

the

assumes south-west,

an

air

and sublimity

grandeur.

hoary

great

was

abhorrence of the Moors to anythingin the shape of a Christian. He added, however,that they treated the English Gibil Muza,
with had that
one
a

its sunnnits is seen uplifting above the clouds: it is Mount Abyla, or, as it is called in the Moorish tongue,
or

the hill of

Muza,

from

of its containing the and that they the circumstance comparative civility, of a prophet of that name. them to the effect sepulchre saying among This is one of the two of excrescences Englishman and INIahometan were the
same : a

and

he then

looked

nature ticularly par-

on

which

the

Old

World

stowed bethe

himself, was
was
"

moment, what silent. I guessed in mind his : passing

"

grave for

ing and,cross-

the title of the Its skirts and Moorish than of

one

Pillars of Hercules. sides occupy

coast

From And

heretic Turkish

boors, Moors,

in more for many leagues the broad but direction, aspect

Star of the sea, Gentle Marie,

its steep and stupendousfront is turned full towards that part of the continent where the

Deliver

me

!"
we

European
were

Gibraltar
hills
or

At

about

three and

passing
in the the
son

lieslike into the

viewed Gibil

huge
brine.

monster

far stretching
two

Of

mentioned Tarifa, so frequently of history Moors

the pillars, from Muza.

most

remarkable,
is

when
one.

Christians. Who
to

afar, is the African

It

has not
be
town

heard

who faithful, crucified rather of

of Alonzo Guzman allowed his only

the
at

tallest and
a

and bulkiest,

is visible

greater

before
than

the

walls
to the

of

the

submit the

delivering up
monarch,
is said
a

miny ignokeys to the

a

distance ; bat scan them both from near, and is you feel that all your wonder the column. European engrossedby Gibil
mass,

Moorish
which

who,
have

with of

host
to

Muza
a

is few

an

immense of and

shapeless
shrubs ding nod-

to

amounted
men,

wilderness
a

rocks,wi-th here

nearly half

million

had

and

there

trees

landed on the shores of Andalusia, from the clefts of its precipices r and threatened to bringall Spainonce is it uninhabited, save more by wolves, wild beneath the Moslem m.onkeys,of yoke ? Certainly swine, and chattering
if there be
name
a

land ?nd

spot where
not

the

which

of that

is good patriot

some-

last account Montana Spaniards.

it is called

by the de las Monas (the

294

THE
the

BIBLE
the the

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. LI.
for answer, that the of the officers
was

hill of

not coutrary,Gibraltar, which covers strange city

baboons) ; whilst, on to speakof

men

returned frigate trader of the his

was

in the hands

part of it,a
of

customs, and

all nations ?.nd. tongues, its batteries and excavations, all of them miracles of art, is the
most

inhabited by city

disposal ; that

t'jc could

at longer of the captain

no

Orestes,however,
and pleased, he himself had

do

what

he

mountain singular-looking
"

in the neither
at

world

a mountain be described by pen which the eye is

which
nor

can

pencil,and

never

satiated with

gazing.
It
was near

sunset, and

we

were

the bay of Gibraltar. We had crossing the Spanish on Gentlemen, all of you who stoppedat Algeziras, for the purpose of landing side, the old that has an Englishsea-captain suppose and his suite, and deliveringbeen deterred fi-om attacking a Spaniard, governor and receiving letters. from an apprehension of a superior force is an ancient Moorish town, of four guns, remember, if you please, Algeziras
"

forty guns, fbrty-four; whereupon the Orestes thought proper to bear Such the Spanish at least was away. account, as related by the journals.Obthe Spaniards to be in gi'eat serAdng glee of their nation having at the idea of one claimed, frightened away the Englishman,I ex-

that if he

had

as

the

name

which denotes,

is

an

Arabic

the fate of the Santissima be

are

and Trinidad,
we

word,

and

signifiesthe
"

placeof the
of mountains

islands."

It is situated at the water's

a

pleasedalso not to forgetthat within almost sound cannon's

It
was near

of

edge, with in the rear.

as place,

lofty range
It seemed
as
a a

Trafalgar."
sunset, I repeat,and
of Gibraltar.
we were

sad the

deserted
the distance

far

I could mile.

judge at
In

the bay crossing

on

of half

harbour,

and however, lay a Spanish frigate French war brig. As we passedthe of the Spaniards board former,some on
our

of the vessel, with prow fixed on the mountain my eyes intently it which, though I had seen fortress, several with

stood

the

times

before, filled my
and animate interest,

mind ^'iewed it

steamer

became

boastful at the

pense ex-

admiration this

of the
a

English.
before,an
be
a

It appeared that, from

it certainly, if situation, any

few

weeks

Englishvessel,
trader, was
a

resembles has head

to suspected
seen

contraband

something of
menaces

in nature, object the appearance of a

by this frigate hovering about

on

terrible couchant

whose lion,

stupendous

bay

the with

Audalusian
an

coast, in

pany com-

Spain.Had

I been dreaming,

I should almost have concluded the it English frigate, of in the them be the to Spaniard dogged genius Africa, shape for some of its most who had serving time, till one monster, morning, obpuissant that the Orestes had from the clime of bounded the over sea peared, disaphe hoisted Englishcolours,and sand and sun, bent on the destruction of made a as signalto the trader to bear the rival continent, more especially down its crest and latter, deceived ; the by the the hue of its stony sides, British ensign, and supposing that the as that of the hide chine,is tawny even stantly of the desert king. A hostile lion has Spaniardwas the friendly Orestes,indrew fired at and it almost invariably at Avas provedto Spain, near, boarded,and. proving in effect to be a least since it first began to playa part contraband M^liich was at the time when trader, she was carried into in history, to the Spanisli Tarik seized and fortified it. It has port and delivered over authorities. In a few days the captain for the most part been in the hands of of the Orestes hearing and incensed first the swarthy and turof this, : foreigners made baned Moor at the unwarrantable it, and it is now use possessed from a of the British flag, fair-haired tenanted sent a boat on board a race by of the frigate, the vessel distant isle. that a Spain, Though demanding part should the connexion, and it seems be instiintly to disavow restored,as, if she mus, was sandy isthnot, he would retake her by force ; at the end of a long narrow with the had level that he almost on sea, raising adding, fortycannons brow to board. The captainof the Spanish its blasted and perpendicular

Orestes.

The

298

THE his countenance which should

BIBLE
seemed have such of

IN

SPAIN. civilians there in the

was

grinon
bronzed

part of the
of Moor. Jews There

permanent, and, liad it not been for his

but Spaniards,

appeared to be a large ling sprinkof

a

complexion, I
hini
to

dress

those of turbaned

declared

be
was,

cockney, and
no a

Barbary,and

here and there

were

else. He nothing what but thing, that is, a person

however,
rock
at

gangs

of

sailors
the

is called born

lizard, likewise, Genoese, judging from

Gibraltar

English parents. Upon hearing my which in Spanish,he was question, than more grinned ever, and inquired,there
"

Avhich theywere patois speaking, though I occasionally the sound distinguished of I knew tou logousas," by which
were

Greeks

at
a

hand,

and

twice

in
se^i

I was a strange accent, whether of Gibraltar. I replied that I had

a

or

thrice and

caught
blue from

glimpse of the
Romaic isles.
a

red
On

Mot that

honour,but that I was subject. Whereupon he said

should ashore.
was

British that he

cap mariner stillI known

square,

silken the

of the petticoats well-

hurried,till I arrived at
close by hostelry, in which
or
a

make We

no

in takingme difficulty the boat

kind little ex

of
ran

entered sailors.

which

stands

the

rowed rapidly

toward

the land
two

by

change
and

Gibraltar.

Into

this I

four

Genoese
he of

My

panions com-

demanded

chattered

in their strange Spafrom the nish, cheerful welcome the fustian occasionally the place, who stood behind
me,

lodging,receivinga geniusof
the bar, occasion

fu.llupon turninghis countenance the last grinappearing more ever than the preceding We ones. reached the quay, where my noted down by a person who
name

and

whom

I shall

perhaps have
men

ous hidesoon was

to subsequently
rooms
were

describe.

All the lower of the rock,

filled with

in general, with swarthy burleymen demanded and Englishfeatures, with complexions then permitted white hats, white jeanjerkins, and white my passport, and I was to advance. jean pantaloons. They were smoking It was now and drinking dusk, and I lost no time pipesand cigars, porter, in crossing the drawbridge and enterand coning wine, and various other fluids, \ the longlow archway which, passing versing in the rock Spanish, rock or under the rampart, communicates with Dense English,as the fit took them. the town. Beneath this archway paced, was the smoke of tobacco, and great with measured the din of voices, and I was tread, tall red-coated glad to sentinels with shouldered There hasten stairs to an unoccupied guns. up in these no served was no with stopping, sauntering apartment, where I was There men. I stood no was no change exsome laughter, refreshment,of which of light with the conversation in need. much but tlieir that I was disturbed by the sound of was soon passers-by, bearing of British

soldiers,conscious
What the
at

of
a

the

martial

music down

close below and

duties of their station.

between them and

ference difI went

my windows. stood at the door. A I

loitererswho
of
a

guard town Spanishgarrisoned now which proceeded up the principalthe prelude,

runs

stand at

listless military band was marshalled upon the the gate little square before the exchange. It ! After to beat the retreat. was preparing
was
cuted, admirablyexe-

street, which

with

gentleascent
Accustomed
with

the his of ci'owd of

tall leader and stick,

alongthe
for
some

base of the hill. months I was Seville, It

was

past to the melancholy the street, followed

almost deafened bustle wliich

gave a flourish strode forward up pany by the whole com-

silence of

by

the noise and

reigned

and fellows a noble-looking The listeners. admii-ing bals cymhorns

Sunday night,and of business was no course going on, but theie were of people passing throngs up and down. Here was a military guard proceeding along; here walked a group
of there officers,
a

around.

clashed,the

screamed, and

'

tbe kettle-drum emitted its deep awful and note, tillthe old rock echoed again, the

with the
"

hanging terraces of noise : stirring

(liib-a-(lub
"

the town

rang '

knot of soldiers stood The

niih-aduh,

thus

"^o

the

driims"

talkingajid laughing.

greater

TantaiM, tantara, the En"Tlishinan comes."

CHAP.

LI,]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

297

O
ere

England!
the
wave
sun

long,
of darkness clouds around

long,

may sink

it beneath

be

makes

them from would of thee fain

heavy thy decry

and false

powerless

thy

glory
!

Cast
who love
most

philosophers,
next

the
ana

of

Though
are
now

gloomy ing gatherstill may

what,

to

the

portentous

God, sacred,

has the from under wrongs

to

hitherto
love thee the
of

been of the

deemed motlier false of poor triots, padressing re-

rapidly
it and

thee,
to

still,

please
to

the

Almighty
thee still ! Or doom her of thou with
one a

disperse

them,
in

land

Cast

thy
pretext
the

grant
and

futurity
in

longer
renown,

Avho,
the

duration,
than

brighter
if

and

thy
may

past
that of

thy
be has
waters
a

doom noble been !

be
one,

at

weak,
so

seek thou
to

promote

internal become

discord,

hand,
and the thou blood

that

mayest
And

only
remove

rible ter-

worthy
Old

who the dost

a

styled Alay
amidst thee

thyself!
false and

from
have who
seen

Queen
if

the

prophets,
divined wall may with fall there

who lies
;

sink,
and
more

sink,

vanity
daubed
that of have peace

have
tar, mor-

flame,
than

mighty
nation
to

noise,

thy
it where

untempered
:

causing
in may it
a

cipate partifates,
thee

who
no

see

visions
;

thy

downfall the Lord and

!
to

Of

all

is
the the do

peace hands

who the the

not

please

preserve
a

strengthened
and sad. for made

of of fear end
or

from

disgraceful
ere

slow
scorn

decay
and foes who
a

wicked,

heart
and

becoming, mockery
now,

extinct,
those

righteous
the result

O,
either
an

this,
shall

for

selfsame envy
even

thy
one,

be

though
fear
honour

they
thee,
and nay,

and

abhor

thee,
their

majestic
shall

and

enviable

God
the

still

against
thee !

perpetuate
thou above for usual my Old
was

thy
Queen

reign
! of

upon

will,

respect
whilst for

Abaters, is
of the

Arouse and and prepare death! which which

thee,
thee

yet
the from
encrusts

there combat thee

time,
life foul

The prayer my the

part

broken after
to

native

land,
I

which,
breathed
to rest

Cast
now

thanksgiving,
ere

scurf

thy
their

robust and

Almighty night

retiring
Gibraltar.

titat

liinbs,

deadens

force,

Sunday

at

298

CHAPTER

LIl.

The

JollyHosteler
The Yeoman

"

Aspirantsfor Glory"
"

A
"

Portrait The The

"

Hamalos"

Solomons"
Skirt" Judali Judah and

An and

Expedition"
his Father"

Soldier

The

Excavations

Pull

by

the

Judah's

-The Pilgrimage Old Age. Premature

Bushy Beard"

False Moors"

the

King's Son-

have been impossible situation more a tar at my ease Gibraladaptedfor studying and its inhabitants, than that which
to have

Perhaps

it would

chosen

and the travellers, they money which carry about them," than of a native of the rock. he will tell Nevertheless, you

himself

that

he

is a rock

lizard ;

and you will scarcely doubt it when, myself occupying about ten o'clock the besides his on which is broad and following morning. English, Seated on bench him hear a small just opposite vernacular, you speak Spanish, the bar,close by the door, in the pasnecessage ay, and Genoese too, when of the hostelry I had at which saiy, and it is no child's play to speak taken up my the latter, I which I myselfcould never joyed entemporary abode, view of the the He a is a good judge of horsechange exmaster. flesh, square of and all that was and occasionally sells a bit of a goingon there, and, by merelyraising to a young blood," or a Barbary steed, eyes, could my to do gaze at my leisure on the stupendous hand, though he has no objection
"

I foimd

hill which altitude of

towers
some

above

the town

to

an

business
not
a

with

an

old

one

; for there

is

thousand feet.

I could

likewise observe every person who entered left the house,which is one of or situated in the m.ost great resort,being

thin, liver-faced, crouching, lynxJew of Fez eyed capable of outwitting

him of in
a

frequented placeof busy,and

the

of the town.

him out or bargain, cheating of the thousand single pound fifty which thoroughfare he possesses ; and yet principal sterling bear in mind that he is a goodever My eyes were
one

so Close beside were my ears. stood fiths, me my excellent friend Grifthe jolly of whom I take hosteler,

natured
to

fellow behave

to

those

who

are

posed dislend

honourably to him,
that he will
a

and you and

know

likewise

the present opportimity of sayinga few words, though I dare say he has been described before, ana frequently Dy far better pens.
not

if you are money, in need of it ; but are he altogether

if it,
not

Let

those who

know' him

to themselves a man of about figure at least six feet in height, made and fifty, There of a an was weighing some ceedingly exeighteen stone, prodigious quantity florid countenance and good porter consumed in my presence during tlie short hour that I sat on the bench features, eyes full of quicknessand of that hostelry but at the same time beamof the rock. ing The passhrewdness, sage with good nature. He wears white before the bar was frequently M'hite f"Ock, and white hat, filled with officers, who pantaloons, loungedin for and is,mdeed, all white, with the exwhich refreshment the a heat of ception sultry of his polished the and weather rendered necessaiy, or at Wellingtons rubicund face. carries a whip l)e- least inviting He few came a ; whilst not neath his ann, which adds wonderfully galloping bary up to the door on small Barof his appearance, to the knowingness horses, which are to be found in

refuse you, there about you, for fiths Grifright his ivorld, knows and is not to be a fool of.

gentleman, depend upon is something

which

is rather who
"

more

that of

great man gentleseemed the

abundance
to

at

Gibraltar. best terms

All with

market keeps an inn on the Newroad, purelyfor the love of

be

on

the

with host,

whom

theyoccasionally

CHAP.

LIl.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

299

discussed the merits of

and There whose with
was

steeds, and joking in good Spanish with an particular ceived reimpudent rock rascal,who held in his jokes they invariably hand unbounded a rion carapprobation. huge bogamante,or coarse
in the demeanour
men,

much

and for the

which lobster,

he would

fain have

persuadedhim to purchase. He was appearance almost gigantically tall, quiteyoung, which towering greater part were nearly and agreeable.three inches above the burly host himself, was highly interesting be said of and Indeed, I believe it may symmetrical, yet athletically in officers in that the of Dovrefeld. a s English pine-tree general, sonal straight perHe must have counted and in polished eleven lustres, ners, manappearance, which from those air the of bear of cast an mature they palm dignity
of these young tlie it of
same

class

over

the world.

True

over

countenance

which

seemed

to

that the officers of the is, of Russia,especially

royalguard

have

been

chiselled

by

some

Grecian

the three noble

Siregimentsstyledthe Priberjensky, might meonsky, and Finlanskypolks, in almost enter into competition fearlessly with the flower of the all points British army ; but it must be remembered, that those regiments officered are

and yet his hair was black as sculptor, the plume of the Norwegian raven, and
so

was

the

moustache

which

curled

above of

his well formed have

lip.

In the

garb

Greece,and
"

I should

in the camp before Troy, taken him for Agamemnon.

"

by

specimensof the Sclaselected men nobility, young for the of their splendour expressly and for the of superiority their persons, endowments mental probably, the I^ieutenant-Governor of Gibraltar." ; whilst, the fair-hairedAnglo-Saxon On either side outside the door,squatamongst all ting I now the ground, or leaningindolently saw on gatherednear youthswhom of noble not a single one some me, there was against the walls, were of proud and haughty half dozen men of very singular ancestry, nor appearance. ing Their a name so far from havprincipal garment was ; and certainly, been selected to flatter the pride kind of blue gown, bling somethingresemand add to the pomp of a despot, the blouse v/orn they by the peasants had been taken indiscriminately from of the north of France, but not so long; of ardent aspirants for military it was a mass compressedaround their waists their and leathern and depended about on sent vice sercountry's girdle, glory, by a and down their half Their to a remote unhealthy thighs. colony. way such as their were Nevertheless, they were bare, so that I had an opporlegs tunity of observing the calves, which country might be proud of,for gallant large. Upon the boysthey looked,with courage on their appearedunnaturally their head theywore of black small scull-caps brows, beauty and health on in their hazel wool. I asked the most athletic of these cheeks,and intelligence fellow of forty, a dark-visaged men, eyes. before Who is he who the who He hanow were. answered, they stops and addresses a This word I knew to be Aramalos." bic, door without entering, in which to my host,who advances with a porquestion tongue it signifies ter ? salute He is the I next common a respectful no moment, ; and, indeed, his similar belies him fellow or saw a across staggering man, appearance strangely.His dress is simple enough ; the square under an innnense burden, bi-oken the sufficient to have almost a Spanishhat, with a peaked crown brim and broad shadowy the veritable On againaddressing back of a camel. sombrero jean pantaloons and blue inquiring swartliyfriend, and my that he Avas he came, he replied, hussar jacket whence ;" but how well that dress of the most becomes one noble-lookingborn at Mogadore,in Barbary,but had I ever I gazed upon beheld. figures passedthe greatestpart of his life at
the choicest vonian
" " "
" "

? said general I to a short queer-looking personage, who sat by my side, a intently studying That he gentleman," newspaper. is, sir, whisperedin a lisping accent,
man a

Is that

him

with
as

strange respect and

he stood

ration admi-

Gibraltar.
"

He

added, that he
man

was
'*

the ha-

benignautly smiling

head or capitaz,"

of the

300

THE
"

BIBLE
addressed

IN when

SPAIN.
in the hand
me

[chap. lii.
of the
a

malos him "with

near

the door.

now

capitaz.
"

low Al-

in the Arabic

of the

East,though

to

offer you

glassof

bitters,"

the hope of beingunderstood, scarcely he had been as more so especially his

own

said he ; "I guessed of our one you was before the hamalos. to people you spoke my heart good to see of your not appearance speakingto his poor brethren. what I I do

long from

country.

He and

ever howhis

Sir,it does

very with eagerness, lipsquivering

answered

his pertinently,

tleman genabove It is

with joy, though it was eyes sparkling that the Arabic, or easy to perceive rather the

and myselfnot unfrequently, will blot out

Moorish,
he
or

was was

not

the

guage lan-

in which either to think

accustomed

and my name, that is Solo'-^ons, when I despise them. I do not pretend to much Arabic myself,

hope God

well, speak. His compayet I understood you tolerably nions and I liked your discourse much. all gatheredround and listened You with avidity, occasionally exclaiming, must have a great deal of shillam eidri, when anything was said which they nevertheless you startled me when you Wakhiid if he ever read the shereef asked the hamalo approved of: rq.jil with the meant hada, min heleddel scharki" (A holy Torah ; of course you man lieve this,from the kingdoms of the meforshim ; poor as he is,I do not beAt him becoresh read I the last the to East). shekel, produced enough which I invariably Torah So without the commentators. as a carry about me believe be and asked the I Sato a poclvet-piece, capitaz helpme, sir, you
"

"whether before. and of

he He

had for

ever

seen

surveyedthe
a

that money and censer

lamancau
some

Jew

am

told there

are

still

olive-branch

considerable
not

time,

kindred lived there: a fell to inspectingmy own once the characters round like yourself; about it on both went sii', great traveller, and givinga cry, exclaimed all the world to look for the Jews, over sides, to the This other these this hamalos
are
:

knew evidently it. At lengthhe

what

to make

flimilies to be found there. Ever at Tudela, sir? not very far from Salamanca, I believe ; one of
of the old

the

went thers, Brothers, brothat I letters of Solomon.

"
"

to the
can

top of Sinai.

Any thing

silver is blessed. We kiss Any must and He it then money." reasonably, put upon his it to his eyes, and finally any one else. head, pressed kissed it with he it, low work did
"

do for you at Gibraltar, sir ? will execute commission? it as

more

than expeditiously
name

enthusiasm, as
returned

did Then

cessively sucgaining rea

am

I\Iy well tolerably

is Solomons.
at

known

tar Gibral-

all his brethren. Griffiths

it to me,

with

and in the Crooked Friars, ; yes, sir, and, for that matter, in the Neuen Stein
;
so

reverence.

subsequently Steg,at Hamburgh

to

helpme, sir, I

informed

me,

that the fellow refused

think
at

once

duringall the rest of the day,and but smile, and talk nothing laugh,
Allow
me

Bremen.
course
a

face at the fair Speak German, sir ? though

saw

your

of

you

do.

AIIoav

me,

sir,to

to himself. to

offer you offer you the

a glassof they wei'e I wish they were sir, living queer-looking sonage I do indeed, perwaters. before mentioned he do me "was a Now, sir, pulent corgive your ; this his and his to matter as short, opinion (lowering legs man, very voice and striking the newspaper). Do His dress consisted of so. particularly white a greasy snuft-coloured coat, dirty you not think it is very hard that one

of bitters. I wish, sir, glass mayim, hayim for your sake,

said bitters, sir,"

trousers, and dirtier stockings. On

head he and
wore
a a

liis

Yudken

should

betraythe

otlier? When
"

rusty silk hat, the

eaves

of which

had

tendencyto turn

fore up be-

I put my little secret beyad peluni, sir? when I enunderstand trust me, you my
an

behind.

during my

conversation

I liad observed that, with the haliis uplifted

poor

seo-et

to

the

of custody
a

and individual,

to Jew, a Yudken, be blown, indeed, I do not expect it. and on the do you think of the of the shelcel had grinned In a word, what production

malos, he had several times the newspaper, eyes from

rery
and significantly,

tliat individual sir, I do not wish

it aold dust hac' ix\spectod

and what rohhcrij,

will be done

CHAP.

LII.]

THE

BIBLE
I
see

IN

SPAIN.
in such
a

30!

to those unfoi-tunate
are

who people,
I made

huny
been

situation would
we

have have

couvicted?" That
same

of littleavail, as

should

to

breath in a minute's time. The spectinglost our reinquiry of transferring the means well acquainted Math soldier, perfectly self mywish the stiilked to prosured Tangier, having no locality, along with mealong

day

my

stay

at

Gibraltar, nhere,

steps, his eyes turned

to

tha

it is an exceedingly ground. tliough interesting I looked fully much at that man as place to an observant traveller,I had In business to detain me. at the strange place where we no as now particular visited by a Jew, a and which the evening I was was moment were, every native of Barbary, who informed me becoming stranger. He was a fine specimen that he was of a of the yeoman turned secretaryto the master soldier; small Genoese bark wliich plied between indeed, the corps to which he belonged consists almost of that class. Tangier and Gibraltar. Upon his asentirely he snriugme that the vessel would inflil- There along, tall,strong, paces an liblystart for the former placeon the ruddy, and chestnut-haired, lishman Engwith I him inch behold him following evening, agreed every pacing ; said that as the He for my and civil, sober,silent, a genuine along, passage. wind from Levant the I soldier. was blowing English prize the sturdy quarter, the voyage would be a speedy Scot, I love the daringand impetuous of disposing Irishman I admire all the various one. Being desirous now ; the of the short time which constitute the population to most races advantage "which tar, I expected of the Briti;h isles; yet I must to remain at Gibralsay that, determined I the excavations, are so well adapted upon visiting upon the whole, none which I had as yet never to ply the soldier's hardy trade as the of old England,so strong,so cordingly rural sons morning,and acseen, on the following obtained sent for and easily cool, yet, at the same time, animated the necessaiy permission. with so much hidden fire. Tui-n to the About six on Tuesday morning, I historyof England and you will at started on attended by this expedition, of what such men once are pable caperceive lad of in the grey old at Hastings, a very : even good-looking intelligent of two brothe Jewish thers time,under almost every disadvantage, one persuasion, who officiated at tlieinn in the caweakened flict, by a recent and terrible conof de valets without pacit}' place. discipline, comparatively and hazy,j^et speaking, dim The morning was and uncouthly armed, they We ascended all but the Norman to a a sultry degree. vanquished chivalry. in Trace their deeds in an and, proceeding street, precipitous France,which they arrived in the twice subdued ; and even follow them soon direction, easterly o f what is known vicinity by to Spain,where theytwanged the yew generally the
name

of the Moorish
so

tower, but

battered

a large Castie, by the cannon

ana

raisea

them

the battle-axe, and left behind of glory at Inglis name a

name

balls discLarged it in the famous against that it is at present littlebetter siege,

Mendi,
consumes

that shall last till fire

the

Cantabriau

hills.

And,
of

than

ruin ; hundreds of round holes in its sides,in which, as to be seen are it is said, the shot are stillimbedded ;
a

oh, in modern
these and

times,

trace
over

the deeds

men gallant in especially

all

France

the world, and Spain,

here,

of hut,we were I did that as species joined and admire them, even who be soldier-like to who was man sober, was silent, by an artillery sergeant, led he our the wonders of a me guide. After saluting showing us, foreigu he unttie way mountain wrested by his counto a huge rock, where locked fortress, trymen of a dark from a powerful and proud naa gate at the entrance tion
at
a

vaulted

than a century before, ar,d of more passedunder it, passage which which from found which he and we a efficient was now emerging passage trasty in a steep path, or ourselves rather guardian. with steircase, walls
on

either side. for leisurely,

We

arrived

close to the

We

proceeded very

which precipice,

rises

stupendous above abiiiptly

302

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap,lii.

the isthmus called the neutral ground, pointedthem with more precision, at Spain, as staring gauntlyand horridly they seldom or never missed an and immediatelyentered the excavawithin range of the shot. tions. object This They consist of galleries scooped man never spoke until he was addressed, in the living rock at the distance of and then the answers which he ga-ve twelve feet from the outside, hind were besome with replete good sense, ard in which they run the whole bi-eadth general well worded. After our cursion, exof the hill in this direction. In these I made In the which him
a a

lieved,
lasted at least two hours, small present, and took of
a

at short distances, are galleries, ragged yawning apertures, all formed by the

hand upon small

of

man,

where

stand the

cannon

neat

raised pavements slightly

on one

flintstones, each with its pyramid

of bullets

side,and
is stowed

on

the other

box, in

which

the gunner

the gear which in the exercise of requires

was

shake of the hand. heaitj^ I evening prepared to go on board the vessel bound for Tangier, in what the Jewish trusting secretary had told me as to its sailing.Meeting the street, him, however, accidentally m he informed
me

leave with

that it would

not

start

Everything following morning, advising in the nicest Englishorder, me at the same time to be on board at everything an I now whelm roamed about everythingready to scathe and overearly hour. in a few moments the proudest the streets until nightwas to beginning and most host which numerous might set in, and becoming weary, I was just appear marching in hostile array against about to direct my steps to the inn, this singular when fortress on the land side. I felt myself gently pulled by the There skirt. I was is not much in these amidst a variety of concourse and one gun resemone cavern around some bling places, peoplewho were gathered the other. As for the guns, they Irish soldiers who were and disputing,
are are

his craft.

in its place, until the

not not

of

I paid no large calibre,indeed, such needed a here, where pebble againmore

so

attention ; but than forcibly

was pulled before,and I

myself addressed in a language half forgotten, and which I a shaft, however, I observed, scarcely to hear again. expectedever in one cave I looked of special round, and lo! a tall figure two importance, carronades stood with peclose and gazed in my face enormous to me looking culiar with anxious wickedness and malignity down On its inquiring eyes. head was a the kauk or furred cap of Jethough rusalem shelvingrock, which perhaps,alwithout not culty, diffifrom its shoulders, tremendous ; depending and almost trailing the gromid, was on might be scaled. The mere wind of one of these huge guns would blue mantle, whilst kandrisa or a broad be Turkish trousers envelopedits nether sufficient to topple over a thousand men. What sensations of dread and limbs. I gazed on the figure horror fully wistas
great
an

from discharged be

altitude
On

heard

would

fraughtwith

death.

which scending de-

I had

must

be awakened this hollow wind from

not

in the breast of

foe I

as

it gazed upon about

me.

At firstthe

when

rock, in the day of

dering thuna

features
was

and appearedperfectly strange,

emits siege,

its flame,smoke, and thousand inferior to

yawning

that ftlt of the by neighbourhood peasant belches forth from all Mongibello yrhen the

holes; horror

to exclaim, I know you when lineaments struck two or one not, tatingly, me, and I cried, though somewhat hesi" is Judah this Lib." Surely I Mas in a steamer in the Baltic in

its orifices its sulphureous fires.

the year
was
a

'34, if I mistake
and
a

not.
a man a

There
sea,

Emerging proceededto
asked the

from view

the

excavations, we
batteries, I

rain drizzling I observed

high

various

when
two

young

of about choly melanI knew

vertheless ne-

the sergeant whether his companions and himself were dexterous at of the guns. He tliat replied

and

twenty leaning in

attitude vessel. him

to

againstthe
countenance

side of the

use

By
be
one

his there

these

Avhat the cannons to them were is the fowling-piece to fowler, that they handled them as easily, and, he be-

of the
was

Hebrew

race,

singularin

something very his appearance, scmethiug

304

THE
"

BIBLE
the Lib. but have I

IN

SPAIN.
and ship, Barbary, even
a

[chap, lu
I went
unto

plied,
Thou knew known

am

Judah,
not at
once.

surnamed I

mounted
land when of

into the

didst thee

recognise me,
should

Fez, and
much ligence intelthan
me

I arrived

there I heard

telligen in-

and not thee amongst a million, a day has passed since I last saw thee, I was thee." but I have thought on about
to

of my father, but it was which perhapswas worse

ignorance. For
father had

the Jews been had

told

that had that

but he reply, and led

me

the crowd

into

pulled and a shopwhere, speculated

me

out

oi^ my

there, and thriven, and

from thence he departedfor Tafilaltz, sat six or seven squattedon the floor, which is the country of which peror, the EmJews leather he said somecutting ; stand, underdid even which them I not to Muley Abderrahman, is a tliing and there he was still prospenative their rous, ; whereupon they bowed in and his wealth and followed heads their occupation, gold and silver he wished to go without A was veiy great ; and taking any notice of us. and distant he far gaged ento a not had followed us to the town, sing-ular figure door
:

it was

man

ingly dressed in exceedto

certain Moors, accompany

treasures men, ; and

two

shabbyEuropean garments, which

exhibited nevertheless
tailor. He
was

him
:

and and

defend the

in number, him and

were
or

the cut of seemed

his shionable fa-

Moors

about

strong

even

malvhasniah

diers sol-

with they made a covenant very broad, him their and tures feathe colour of bronze father, was a deep they gave my ; to spill were rugged, but exceedingly righthands, and they swore should their than his rather be blood theywere manly, and, notwithstanding shed. father And marks of was those of a Jew, exhibited no encouraged, my and he waxed bold, and he departed cunning,but, on the contraiy, much with them, even with the two false His form and good nature. simplicity

fifty ; his

face,which

was

above

the middle the athletic,

and height,
arms

Moors. mendously treback

; the

and
a

were

those literally
a

of

Hercules with

squeezed into
lower
a

modern

surtout

part of his face was bushy beard, which

down

covered This

theyarrived in the uninhabited place,they smote my faand theyprevailed "him, thei', against and they poured out his blood in the and they robbed him of all he way,
And when his the silks and and his

way

his breast.

depended half had, of and of mained refigure

had

merchandise,

at the door, his eyes fixed upon myselfand Judah.

The father ?
"

first
was,
"

inquirywhich
"

now

Have

you

heard

of

I have," he replied." When I proceeded throughmany lands, parted, of the and wherever I went I inquired

he gold and speculations, they and there went to their own village, and down themselves dressed adbought they sat and lands and houses, rejoiced they your and theymade and they triumphed, a merit of their deed, saying, We have we
made in his
'

silver which

killed and

an

even infidel, were things

an

accursed

Jew

these

notorious

in Fez.

I heard these tidings when father, but still And mj peoplerespecting my and I became like a heart until I was sad, their arrived shook heads, they child, and I wept; but the fire of Jeat the land of Tunis ; and there I went burned hinnim told that no he and tlie me head rabbi, longer in my brain, to what become of for I knew was and that he now he knew my father well, took At father. last I and he had been there,even at Tunis, comfort, my and I reasoned with myself,saying, named tlie time, and he said that from thence he and his

departedfor the land of Fez ; of my father and of much he sjioke and he mentioned the Zolearning,
even

'

Would

it not

INIoorish

king

be wise to go unto and demand of him

the
geance ven-

har,
more

that
so

dark well
:

book

which and it

my his 1

father loved of my

and he

spoke yet
seems

father's wealth So I

for my father's death, and that and the treasure, be despoiled, the spoilers father's treasure, be even my M-rested from their hands and delivered
up
to
me

in all of which speculations, he

who

am

his
was

son

'

And

the

had

thriven.

and departed,

king of the Moors

not

at

that time

CHAP.

LII.J
"svas

THE

BIBLE

IN from
no

SPAIN.
the
sou

305

in Fez, l)ut and I arose

and never since fiom him. and it unto is now when I arrived tliei-e, lo ! I found him three years since I was in his his and And I sat me down at Mobut son was men gadore, there, not, presence. and I married a wife,a daughsaid unto me, that to speakunto the son ter and I wrote unto the Idug, even to speak to my was INIiiIey of our nation, in I the Abderrahman went unto so even to mother, Jerusalem,and she ; king's son, and I kneeled before him, sent me money, and with that I entered
came, intelligence that day have I heard

absent in his wars ; and followed him, even is a sea-port, and Arbat, which

of the Moorish

but king,

and I said unto and I lifted up my voice, him what I had to say, and he looked ' and said, courteously Truly upon me thy tale is a sorrowful one, and it mak-

into commerce, father had even as my and I and done, speculated, I was not successful in my and 1 speculations, all had. lost I And I am now speedily eth me sad ; and what thou askest, come to Gibraltar to speculate the on that will I grant,and thyfather's death a merchant of Mogadore, account of another, shall and the spoilers but I like not my occupation shall be avenged, ; and will write thee I has he deceived be despoiled a me going back, ; ; I am hand unto the Pasha, my own and I the Pasha of Tafilaltz, him to make will enjoin inquiryinto thymatter, and that letter thou shalt thyself carry and deliver imto him.' letterwith
even

when I shall again seek the presence of the Moorish king, and demand that the treasure of my father be taken from the
even

and spoilers
to me

delivered up

to me,

his son."

I heard these words, my I listened with mute attention to the And when for very heart died within my bosom tale of this singular singular man, and ' and I replied, Not so, my lord ; when he had concluded I remained a fear, considerable time without it is good that thou write a letter unto saying a filaltz, the Pasha,even what had unto the Pasha of Tavrord; at last he inquired neither but that letter will I not take, broughtme to Gibraltar. I told him will I go to Tafilaltz, for no that I was on merelya passer through and my for which should I arrive there, sooner placeI my way to Tangier, errand the Moors be known, than to sailthe following expected morning. either would arise and put me to death, Whereupon he observed,that in the for are not the murof a week or two he expected derers course or to privily publicly, of my father Moors ; and am I be there also, when he hoped that we I Polish but be should he had a much a as Jew, though more to meet, aught " " ?' And he looked benignantly, And tell me. he man peradventure, and he said,' Truly, thou speakestadded, " you can afibrd me counsel write the I will thou but which for will be letter, wisely profitable,you are a ; for I will send it by person of experience, shalt not take it, versed in the other hands ; therefore set thyheart at of and when I nations; many ways if thy tale be look in your countenance, heaven seems rest,and doubt not that,

true,thyfather's death shall be

avenged, to open to me, for I think I see the and the treasure, or the value thereof,countenance of a friend, of a broeven ther." be recovered and given thee He then bade tell to me ana farewell, up ; where wilt thou abide me, therefore, departed;the strange bearded man, And I said unto till then ? mained him, who during our conversation had re'

will go into the land of will tan'y there.' And he ' Do so, and thou shalt hear : repli-ed So I arose from me.' and speedily and the land of into went departed,
"

My lord, I
and

Suz

Suz,

unto even Sweerah, which the Nazarenes call Mogadore; and I waited ^ith a troubled heart for intelligence i primeof

the door, that there less wildness in his look than on was the former occasion, but, at the same and his features more time, melancholy, wrinkled like those of an aged were had he not tiie though yet pa^^^sed man,

patiently waitingat him. I remarked following

youth.

X2

306

CHAPTER

LIII.

GeiioL'ae

.Mariners-

Saint

Michael's
"

Cave"

ProprietorThe
Throughout it blew very of Gibraltar I found
on

Midnight Abysses" Young America! Fairy Man Infidelity.

"

Slave

the whole

of that the wind

no

night
was

much

; then

coming up
and

to me,
me

he took
that
to
we

hard, but,

as

off his hat

were same

informed
a

in the Levant

quarter,I had

hension appre-

not to start that

day,sayingat
shame would hours.

the lose

being

detained

longerat

time
a

that it was in three

that account. I went on board the vessel at an early hour,when the

crew

such
us

noble

wind, which

carry
"

to

Tangier

tience," Pa-

the anchor that hour,

wc

said I,and went on shore. engaged in hauling I and making other preSt. ^Michael's now strolled towards close, parations for sailing.They informed with the Jewish lad cave, in company should I'hat time

me an

we

probably
however where small

start

in

whom

I have way

before mentioned. lie in the leads to that which

passed,
we on

The
same

thither does not

as

and and We

still remained of

were,

direction

the

captaincontinued
one
a

shore. which

the excavations

formed

of flotilla

of Genoese barks, the crews in their leisure moments seemed to have no better means selves of amusing themthan the exchange of abusive language: a furious fusilade of this kind

whilst the cave Afi-ica. It lies

the
sea.

Spain, ; these confront in the face of yawns nearlyat

the top of the moimtain, several hundred yardsabove We

walks, passed by the public

where
many

tliereare noble trees,and also by small houses, situated delightfully

in gardens, and occupiedby the commenced, in which presently the mate dis- officersof the garrison.It is wrong of our vessel particularly to naked Gibraltar barren he a was a mere himself; tingaished greysuppose haired Genoese of sixty. Though not rock ; it is not without its beautiful able to speak their patois, I understood such as these, lookingcool spots spots and with liage. much of what said ; it was was refreshing, bright green fotruly The became and as they shouted it forth, shocking, path soon very ings judgingfrom their violent gestures and steep,and we left behind us the dwelldistorted features, The galeof the precedof man. cluded ing you would have conthem to be bitter enemies ; they ceased, and not night had entirely of air was day of the kind, but a breath stirring were, however, nothing ; the midand deed shone in all its fierce glory, excellent friends all the time, and insun ihe which clambered fellows at we were crags up very good-humoured watered with the perbottom. not unfrequently Oh, the infirmities of human spiration M'hich rained from our will man ! When learn to become nature drops arrived at the Christian ? we temples: at length truly
"

I the nnich

am

upon

the

whole

Genoese;
a

they and ribaldry

brave
ever never

very fond of have, it is true, vio-s, but many from them but

cavern.

The

mouth and

is a

yawning
wide

cleft in the twelve feet there for

minates ter-

side of the is
some

mountain, about
as

they are
and I have have

and been

chivalrous
so, and

people, high
a

many

; within

very

kindness tlie Jew

and

experiencedaught hospitality.
lapseof
another
two

descent rapid precipitous where the cavern fifty yards, in

an

abyss which
most

After the

hours,
said

depths. The
objectis a

leads to unknown remarkable rises

enor-

secretary arrived

and

to the old mate, who ^iuuetbing

grumbled

natural column, which like the trunk of an up something

CHAP.

LIII.J
oak,
as

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

307

mous

the

roof; it

if for the purpose stands at

similar attempts being made of porting either by supshort the officers or soldiers of the garrison,

distance from the entrance, and gives a all of which have provedperfectly tive. aborcertain air of wildness and singularityNo termination has ever been Avhich is reached, nor to that part of the cavern to any discoveries made which visible, possess. The it would otherwise
not

fioor is

exceedingly pery, incurred slip-

of soil which the continual consisting the roof have drippingsfrom that no islight so saturated, precaution

frightful danger succeeds precipice, precipice and abyss succeeds abyss, in apparently endless succession, with ledgesat intervals,
;

repay the labour

and

which

aflbrd

the

adventurers

is necessary for him who treads it. It opportunities ibr resting themselves this place and affixing is very dangerous to enter their rope-ladders for the with without a guide well acquainted of descending yet farther. purpose

it, as,

besides

the black

pit at
never

the

tremity, ex-

holes which fathomed woidd

men

have

been

present themselves
be dashed
to

hei'e and

is, however, most mortifying is to observe that these perplexing, not only before, but behind are abysses
and you, and on every side ; indeed, close within the entrance of the cave, on the

What

into which there, falling

the adventurer

pieces. Whatever

to say of this cave, one right,there is a please may it who tell all to seems to thing approach dark and full as

gulf almost equally that as threatening

it, namely, that

never

the

hand

of it ;

man

has is
as

which

been
a

busy
which

about

there

exists at the nether end, and perhapscontains within itself as many

and gulfs have that otf branching from what I Indeed, heard,I have come to the opinion
caverns

many

cave
on

of nature's
we

old forming, which exist,

horrid

the earth has

in all directions. nevertheless the whole

exhibits indications that man turned it to some account, and that

more subjected
or

it has been

modifying power; not so Gibraltar, for, judging from itsappearance, there is not the slightest reason for supposingthat it ever served for rible aught else than a den for foul night lives are lost every year in these horand beasts of prey. and It few weeks a birds,reptiles, places only ; has been stated by some before my visit, to have been two sergeants, brothers, used in the days of paganism as a temple had perished in the gulf on the right hand side of the cave, having, when to the god Hercules, to at who, according raised the singular a great depth, the ancient tradition, d own a precipice: slipped called Gibraltar, The Ijody of one of these adventurous of crags now mass is and the mountain which confronts it on in the bowels men even now rotting of the the African shores, as columns which mountain, preyed upon by its
should
he had
no

less to his this cave of

is littledoubt it cleft asunder,its interior that, were would be found full of such abysses of Erebus those to which chael's as Saint Miconducts. cave Many valuable

hill of

Gibraltar

honeycombed, and

I have

times that say to all suc";eeding been

blind

and
was

noisome norrible

worms

; that of his

there,and
Sufficient to

bad

advanced
ti;at

I brother
alter tnis

extricated. the mouth

Immediately
of the cave, to the especially

farther.

observe,

a gate was accident,

there

within the cave which nothing would authorise the adoption of such an even not a opinion, platform on which
a narrow
an

is

placedbefore
reckless

and prevent individuals, from soldiers,

was

altar could have

stood,whilst

their extravagant

path passes
summit

before

it, leading however,

indulging in The lock, curiosity. forced,and at speedily

to the

of the mountain.

myself never I can of course depths,

describe them.
the individuals

have

of my arrival the gate swimg As I the period its into its penetrated hinges. idlyupon
not
to pretend

As

left the

place,I thoughtthat
of he

Numerous
down

have

been
riosity, cu-

who, instigated by
to to

the cave perhaps similar to this was dv/elt when where Horeb, Elijah, heard the still small

have ventured

inmiense

depths, hoping indeed scarcely a

discover week

end. and an passes without

great and mountains

voice, after the wind which rent the strong and brake in pieces the rocks

."308

THE the

BIBLE
the
trance en-

IN

SPAIN.
"

CHAP.

LIII.

before with when

'"

Lord; the

cave

to

of whieli he went his face wrapped

out

and

stood

" think so, sir ? Think don't I think I so sir,

"

so, sir ?

"

no,

gloryin
four
estate
"

being
dred hunown a

in his mantle,

slave

proprietor ;

have my

he heard the voice say unto him, What doest thou here, Elijah?" (1 And what of
ara

black dozen

niggerson

"

estate,sir,near
of them

Charleston

half flog

Kings xix. 11-13.)

I

doing here,

quiredfor exercise. inset

before breakfast,merely Niggers only made to he escape sometimes ; in their ti'ail, catch

myself, as, vexed at my I descended into the town.

That of South him
some

tion, deten-

sir ; try to flogged, the blood-hounds in

a

afternoon
a

I dined

in the
a

pany com-

them that

young

American,
I had had inn he the been His

native of

selves
a

: used to hang themi twinkling the : formerly niggersthought j sure

Carolina.
as before,

seen frequently

for staying
to

time
at

at

previous

my

to return to their own way and clear of me : soon country get put them that if any a stop to that : told

I
\
'

more hanged themselves I'd hang myappearance self of remarkable he low was was them, and too, follow close behind : stature, in made tures feathem their his and exceedingly own flog slightly coimtry ten ; than in mine. What do were pale but very well formed ; times worse

arrival

Gibraltar.

he

had

black beheld. broad

head of crispy magnificent hair, and as superb a pair of

a

whiskers

of the He
wore

same
a

colour white

as

ever

of that, friend?" It was of there t hat more was perceive easy fun than malice in this eccentric little you
to

think

hat, with

fellow,for

his

large grey

eyes

were

shallow good humour whilst he particularly wild things. He was in these dressed a and was light poured out crown, with free of his money exceedingly ; and a yellow gingham frock, striped soldier's wife, a black, and ample trousers of calico : in dirty Irish woman, a word, his appearance was altogetherhaving entered with a basketful of small boxes and trinkets, On made of porand return singiilar. tions my queer brim and from
to my ramble that he had himself

with sparkling

the

cave,

I found from

justdescended

the mountain, having since a very early its wonders. hour been absent exploring she demanded. how A man of the I'ock asked him he them liked the

rock of Gibraltar, he purchased the greatest part of her ware, giving her for every article the price which (by no means inconsiderable) of the He had
at

at glanced

me

excavations.

"

Liked

several the
"

times, and
and who

last I

saw

him

?" said he ; " you might just as the well ask a person who has justseen like Niagara Falls how he liked them
"

stoop down

Jew,
dear is
no

whisper something to in an under tone, replied

considerable sir ; sir :

though
0

with
no,

earnestness,
"

is
was

not

the the

word, mister."
town

The

heat

mistaken, perfectly
from manca, Sala-

it almost invariably sir : as suffocating, in of

mancan

American,

is

Gibraltar, Avhere of air is to be felt, it a breath as rarely

is sheltered
another "whether
"

sir ; the

gentleman is a SalaSpaniard." The waiter at

us

from did

all winds.
to

This
ot

led
him

leneth J
the

informed that
us

that

he

had

laid

individual he
not

inquire
think he

table, and
to

it exceedingly

agreeable

to

perhapsit would be dine together: we

assented. I found new replied,instantly my in many all : fine cotton not at gathering acquaintance respects a most could wish for. "We weather a man as agreeablecompanion: he soon told me couldn't beat it in South Carolina, sir." his history. He was a and, planter, hot?

"Hot, Sir?"

"

You

live

in

South
are

Carolina, sir
"

from

what

he He

hope, sir, you

in the had offered
;
"

not

slave

said the short

fat Jewish

property. prietor," prosonage large vessel per-

hinted, just come was part owner

which

to

his
a

of

me

snuflF-coloured coat, who Charleston the bitters on a previous fever

traded between and Gibraltar, and the yellow

out

having just broken

at

occasion

itis a terrible
to

thing to

make

slaves of poor

they happen

people,simply because be black; don't you

place,he had determined to take a trip to Europe in this (hisfirst) visited he | ship as said, already having, ;
the former

CHAP.

LIII.]

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

309

eveiy that
to
was

state to

in be
a

the
seen

Union,
there. naive
on

and He and

seen

all

was

by

no

means

his and
to

habit
there he that

to

introduce
Avere

described

such few
so

subjects,
persons

that whom but

very

me,

in

very sensations
was

original passing by
tOMn

would I had
our

speak
very
quaintance ac-

manner,

his
which
ever

unreservedly,
interested had

Tarifa,
he had

the I

first related
to

walled
to

much

him,
been

though
short. have that it
a

seen.

him he He
me

the tened lismade who he

'"

replied,
at

history

of with

that

place,

which

that Boston

he

would in the and he

was

scarcely
manner

spoken
I easy had
to

great
to

attention.
learn I from

just
ceive per-

divers
was

attempts
;

heard

him,
that

that
not

was

all

of

which

evaded,
that other father
at

though
I
was

New
"

P'uglander.
1 should
so

seemed American
asked been
me

fully
;

convinced

an

assure

you,"
have

said

he,
of

as

and,

amongst
my consul

things,
had
not

little

thought
for I if should I

speaking
such
tion conversa-

at

whether

Charleston, there,

held
soon

American
most

Seville.
him and
was

What,
my

have

had

to

however,

perplexed
Moorish

speak
Had has been

to

myself."
I known my have
man

understanding
which
he
to woman,

Gaelic,
tively respecIrish he

less fortune
to

of

deists

than I should

it

had the the

heard hamalos latter that of I

me

speak
and the
as

know,
to
erroneousness

perhaps
this
the young ideas
aware

endeavoured
of he all the had that
as

convince of
;

whom,
was
a

said,
man.

had At

told last he and

him

fairy

which of

adopted
be the address I

but have has

introduced

the with much

subject

of

ligion, re-

was

would
believer
to

spoke

contempt
a

urged
: no

in

reply,
arguments

and,

of he my

revelation,
was

avowing
very here

himself
anxious

deist
to

caraal

to

carnal it

evidently
but

hear

reason

upon
to

this

subject,

thought
I

opinion,
and whether He well

again
with

evaded

best
sure

avoid lead the

disputation,
to
no

which

felt

him,
him

contented
he said he

myself
had had with
ever

asking
read the that

would is

profitable
of

result. I do

Faith
not

free that

gift
ever

God,
w^as

and
an

Bible.
he of
was

not

but

believe

yet
of
the

infidel lemics. po-

acquainted
and Mirabeau.

the I

writings
made that
no

converted

by
This

means

after-dinner last

Volney

was

evening

of

answer;

whereupon

he

added,

it

my

sojourn

in

Gibraltar.

310

CHAPTER
Again
on

LIV.
Jews" Hadji" Setting Sail" Tlie Two The Struggle The Forbidden Thing.
"

Board"
Vessel"

The

StrangeVisage" The Oulem Tangier" Adun

American

"

A drew Thursday,the 8th of August,I was nigh, the large boat now board the Genoese on with filled Moors ; at of which as stern bark, again was hour the and the there an as on ing. previousmornearly might be about twelve, After waiting, of consisted however, two or sons pergreater part evidently three hours without any preparation of distinction, as theywere dressed I was about in all the pomp of the and gallantry being made for departing, to return to the shore once but East, with snow-white turbans, jabamore,

On

the old Genoese

me stay,assuring

mate

advised
no

me

to

dores of green

silk

or

scarlet cloth,and

goldgalloon. Some of our fine men, of them as all the cargo were sailing speedily, exceedingly had was and on two board, and we them, nothing youths,were amongst further to detain us. I was handsome, and, so far from reposing strikingly in the when I little heard the dark nance cabin, myself exhibiting swarthy counteboat strike against the side of the a in general, their comof Moors plexions and board. red and delicate some of vessel, come on a were people face in the a and white. The Presently peered at principal ing, openpersonage, I was ence, deferhalf all the rest"paid much to whom strange and wild. and first of about at tall athletic man was a asleep, imagined I was dreaming, for the face seemed more forty. He wore a vest of white quilted bedeyasrich
with like that of human
a

that he had

doubt

goat

or

an

ogre than

of

being; its long beard almost face as I layextended in touching my of berth. a kind Starting however, up, I recognised the singular-looking Jew
whom Judah and I had Lib.
seen

whilst gracecotton, and white kandrisa, fully and swathing wound round his body, the the upper part of his head, was white flannel or haik, wrapping plaid,

always held
the Moors their his feet

in

so

much

estimation

in the

company

of

from

the

earliest

by periodof

bare, and history. His legswere from the groimd onlyprotected and went into a smile. I arose He no displayed by yellow slippers. upon farther ornament than one deck, where I found him in company large gold with another in man from which Jew, a young dependeda pearl, earring, the dress of Barbary. They had just evidently A noble black of great pi'ice. touched arrived in the boat. I asked my friend beard, about a foot in length,

He

nodding, bent

me also, recognised his huge features

of the beard he He that where native. and

came,

who in

and

where

he was, from he was broken

whence

his muscular

breast. the somcAvhat

answered,
he
was

going? good, with Portuguese, which were

of exception

His features were the eyes, small ; their expression,

returningfrom
had been which
on

he He

evil; their Lisbon, was however, and business,to glanceswere sullen; malignity
was a

of INIogadore,

place he
me
a

and

ill-nature

then looked

in the face book from

lineament seemed with Avhom he

was a

out smiled,and taking

his
to

in Hebrew pocket,
on

characters,fell
a

readingit; whereupon
board and observed he His beard book
must

Spanish
such be
a

paintedin every which countenance, have been to never brightened of smile. The Spanish sailor, had to occasion I have already
were

of his

sailor
a

that with needs

speak,informed
was so

me

in

or sabio, sage.

Mequinez,and

companionwas from spokeonly Arabic.

a santuron, or far back on his way

whisper,that big saint, and

from

!Mecca,

312 seemed had

son,

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. liv.
a

that, a year
had On

or

two

quitted Mogadore
who betaken

in

he previous, of his pursuit

to

sprang

along at
to

tremendous beneath the

rate, the
ment mo-

huge latine
which
us. an

sails

threatening every

himself

tugal. Por-

drive

us

billows,

tide raised up against ner, scudding alongin this manwe had, a few days before, fugitive shipped passedclose under the stera of himself for the Brazils. Unlike Judah a lours colarge vessel bearing American in quest of his father,he now she the became was straits, tackingup ; the pursuit.and slowly winning her M^ay against weary, and discontinued The younger Jew from the impetuousLevanter. As we passed Mequinez was and under I observed the as as her, exceedingly lively soon gay poop crowded he perceived that I was of with at us derstanding capable unpeoplegazing ; indeed, we smile have offered a singular me must him, and made spectacle by his humorous account of Christian to those on board, who, like my young father at

Lisbon,he

the arrival, however, of the discovered that the

adverse

Whilst

as life,

he had he he had He

observed made
a

it at

Gibraltar,
a

American

where month.

stay of about

the Old World

friend at Gibraltar, were siting vifor the first time.

then

which,
was
a

said,was

At the helm stood the Jew ; his whole spoke of I\Iequinez, dise, Parathe a Jennut, or figureenvelopedin a gabardine, which So Gibraltar
so

compared with sty of hogs.

is the

cowl

of

which,

raised the

above

his

head,

great,

versal gave unisoon

him

almost with

saw

love of country. I that both these peoplebelieved

own

spectre in its shroud

me

deck, mixed
with the

of a appearance whilst the upon ; in various Europeans

to be of their

nation
was

indeed, the
the
most

all of them kinds of dresses, of exception turbaned

picturesque

young

one,

who
me

much

taxed familiar,

with

spokeof the
blood.

infamy of

being so, denyingmy

our

and
o^^n

Moors,

my own, trod the the haik of the hadji The view could have

Shortlybefore
us.

arrival off
to

in the wind. flapping loosely obtained of us, however, they

universal hunger seemed Tarifa,

amongst
negroes
on

The Jews and

hadji and
ate

prevail his

their store,and produced the fowls,

feasted

bounded been but momentary, as we with the speed of past them literally hour's that in about an a racehorse,so time
we

roast

gi'apes and

were

not

more

than
on

mile's which

bread,myselfbread
the
crew

cheese, whilst

distance

from

the

foreland

of anchovies. a mess prepared with a came speedily w hich t o largeportion, theypresented

Two

of them

stands the fortress Alminar, and which constitutes the boundary point of the

me

with
no

the kindness hesitation found I sat As in

of brothers

made

their accepting cious. delithe Jews, I turned the the

bay of Tangiertowards the wind droppedand againslow.

For
a

the east.
our

There
was

progress

present, and
offered away cried
same

the anchovies but with

between

Tangierhad ing after standin sight. Shortly appeared

considerable time had descried from Tarifa, we away it showed it in the far distance, when its nest. like a white dove brooding on The when amidst about
sun we

them their

some,

they

heads

disgust, and
at
me

haloof (hogsfleshX They

small

time, however, shook took a hand, and, uninvited,

by

tion porof my bread. I had a bottle of Cognac, which I had broughtwith me

as
a

behind the town was setting droppedanchor in its harbour, half

a

dozen of
our

barks

and

felouks

only own, and I There stood vessels which to sea-sickness, saw. we preventive it to them ; but this they also presented Tangier before us, and a picturesque is Hardm bidden). forit was, town refused, exclaiming, (it occupyingthe sides and I said nothing. of of which, bold and two one hills, top We the the close into the sea where to now were lighthouse bluff,projects of Tarifa, and turning the head of the and takes a sudden coast abrupt turn. bark towards tlie west, we made rectly diits were Frowning and battlemented for the coast of Africa. The walls,either perchedon the top of precipitous
wind'was
as we
now

the

size

the

blowing
it almost

had

very in our

fresh,and
poop,
we

rocks, whose

base

was

washed the

by

the salt billows,

or

from rising

CHAP.

LIV.

THE

BIBLE
"

IN

SPAIN.
universe's

313 Master,

narrow

strand which the

ocean. are

separatesthe hill
three tiers of hat-

the Roi:,'ne(i Wlien

ere

were

from

: earthlythinijs be",'im

Yonder command
see

two

or

the And He

teries,dispLaying heavy giuis, which

the harbour
terraces
; above

his mandate all created he won name : alone He'll rule tremendous

Ruler
when

v, as

all

them

the

of the town

you in rising that the

are thiny;s pa"t and j(one, no equal has, nor consort.

gular He, the sinHis the

to

and

succession whole chalk

like steps for

cut out

lone,
and and
no

giants. But
an

tias
He's

no

end God

beginning;
thrcmo.

all is white,perfectly white,so

seems

and sceptre, mijjht my whom 's my

weal

of

immense

rock livingJ^aviour,

rock, though true it is that you behold here and there tall green trees

He

in need I run ; banner and my when called upon;

refuge,fount

of

In His liand I place my ness at nightfall spirit springingup from amidst the whiteand rise of sun, : perhaps they belongto Moorish And thereuitli body also; God's mv my now gardens,and beneath them even God I fear no one." is reclining peradventure many a darkhad now fallen over land eyed Leila,akin to the houris. IJight Darkness before you is a high tower or heard save minaret, and sea : not a sound was the distant barking of a not white but curiously painted,wliich occasionally from the of gier Tanto the principal belongs dog shore,or some mosque plaintive Genoese black banner for a waves from it, arose ditty,which a ; upon it is the feast of Ashor, A noble beach bark. The town seemed neighbouring the bay from tlie buried in silence and gloom, no light, of white sand fringes
"

town

to the

foreland

of Alminar.
tains moun-

To his

not

even

that of

cried. taper,could be des-

the east rise

;

hills and prodigious

are

they

Gibil

Muza

and

chain ; and
of Tetuan
are

grey mists of evening envelopingtheir sides. Such v. as whilst boat itsvicinity, as it appeared gazing from the Genoese
now

yon ; the

tall fellow is the

peak

such Tangier,
to
me

bark. A
was

lowered from the

from

the
was

in which vessel,

the

who captain,

chargedwith
the Jew his attendant shore. but I that

the mail

Gibraltar,

secretary,and
negroes I would have told that
ere

hadjiand departedfor the

them,

land and bill night, my passport of health could be examined, the gates would be closed ; so I remained board on
was as

gone with I could not

tion Turning our eyes in the direchowever, we perceived a Spain, magnificentconflagration, seemingly the side and head of one of enveloping the lofty mountains northward of Tafifa;the blaze was redly reflected in the waters of the strait; either the brushwood was burningor the Carbowere neros plying their dusky toiL The Jews now ness, complained of weariand the younger, uncording a small mattress, spread it on the deck and soughtrepose. The sage descenaed into the cabin,but he had scarcely time the old mate, darting to lie down ere forward, dived in after him, and pulled him out by the heels,for it was very
of

shallow, and

the than

descent
two
or

was

effected

the two Jews. The crew former their prepared supper, which consisted simplyof pickled tomates, the

"with the

and

by

not

more

three

steps.

he called him this, accomplishing and threatened opprobrious names, many other provisions him with his foot, as he lay having been consumed. The old Genoese the deck. Think on broughtme a portion, sprawling you," said he, at the same who time for the are a apologising dog and a Jew, of the fare. I accepted it and pay as a dog and a Jew ; think you plainness with told him in the cabin ? Undeceive yourthat a thanks, and to sleep self, million better men than myselfhad a in beast : that cabin shall be slept I with worse ate never this b ut Christian Canone more by to-night supper. As the night advanced, the The sage made vallero." but no appetite. reply, Jews sang Hebrew and when from the deck and stroked his arose hymns, of me beard, whilst the old Genoese pi'oceeded they had concluded, demanded in his Philippic.Had the Jew silent,so I lifted up my been why I was voice and clianted Adun h e could Oulem : have the disposed, strangled
" "
"

After

314

THE

BIBLE
him
never

IN

SPAIN.
bottle of my the crew would and

!CHAP.

LIV.

insulter in
U)

moment,

or

crushed
as

death

in his
to

brawny
seen

anus,
a

remember and

have

figureso
he
was

muscular;
to
a

but and

return slight powerful dently thanked evime, ; it

slow
; not

anger, resentful word

round ing long-suffer-

duced
that

Cognac, begging
partake
bottle of it
as a

for their

hospitality. They
went

the

its of the
a ment mo-

was

last in the hands after

escaped him,
their usual

old mate, where he

who,

looldng for

and

his

features
assured

retained

at the sage, raised

expressionof benignantplacidity.
I
not
now

kept

it

it to his mouth, considerable time

the

mate

that the but

I had Jew's rather

longer

than

inquiredwhat Cognac and for more. "Excuse Sir valier," Caor with aguardiente, some whereupon me, he but I that I would allow replied the Genoese, begged eagerness him to take a draught. to permit no such thing; you are swear How is this ?" and do said know this canaille I told not that it me as yesterdayyou young, ; I do, who have been backward and forward a forbidden abomination."' an was thing, to this coast for twenty years ; if said he, I was not aware Yesterday," the beast is cold, let him that it was sleep below brandy ; I thought it wine, the hatches as I and the rest shall,but which is an abomination, and assuredly that cabin he shall not enter." forbidden ing Observa Is it forbidden thing." that he was in the Torah I retired, and ?" I inquired. Is it obstinate, in a few minutes in a sound in the law of God ?" I was sleep, forbidden which lasted till daybreak. Twice know or not," said he, but one thing I forbidden thrice, indeed, I thought that a struggle know, that the sages have it ?" was takingplacenear me, but I was so Sages like yourself,"cried I like yourself, overpowered with weariness, or sleep with warmth ; sages with long beards and short understandcall it,that ings: drunken," as the Germans I was unable the ciently suffiof both drinks is perto arouse use myself mitted, but to discover what lurks in this was on more going : danger the truth is, that tliree times during the bottle than in a tun of wine. Well said himself Lord the strain night, the sage feeling at a fortable uncomNazarene, ye my
now

to slightest objection sharing the cabin with me,

as it,

the

after which

of his companions, any he returned it to me with a I told him

wished

there

was

room

for

us

both

low bow. The sage the bottle contained

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

'

in

the

open

air

by

the side of

his

bin, companion, penetratedinto the caand times dragged was as many out by his relentless old enemy, who, suspectinghis intentions, kept his eye him throughout the night. upon

a camel ;'but as you gnat, and swallow cold and are take the bottle shivering,

and

revive

yourselfwith
He

small

tion porThe

of its contents." and lips

"

put it to his

old Genoese

About

five

arose:

the

sun

was

not a single drop. grinned. I saw Bestia," said he : by

"

found

your

looks that you wished of that to drink shining brightly and gloriously upon I said Avithin me, the bottle, and even town, bay, and mountain; ?rew were will I leave not pairing already employed upon deck rethough I suffocate, yet had been shivered a sail "which one drop of the aguardiente of the in the wind of the precedingday. The Christian Cavalier to be wasted that on Jews sat disconsolate on the poop ; they Jew, on whose head evil nings lightmay fall." complained much of the cold they had suffered in he continued, their NoM-, Sir Cavalier," exposed situation.
"

Over
a

the left eye of the sage I observed bloody cut, which he informed me he received he had from the

'*

you shall your may "0."

can row

go you

ashore
to

these

two

sailors convey

the

Mole,

and

had
after

old
I

Genoese
of the pro-

dragged

him

out
now

baggage where you the Virgin bless you

tliink proper ; wherever you

cabin

for the last time.

311

CHAPTER
riie Mole"

LV.
"

The

Two

Moors
"

"

Djmah
Moorish

of

Tangier
House
"

House

of God

"

British

Consul

"

Curiour

Spectacle
So

The

Joanna

Correa

"

Ave

Maria.

rowed to the Mole, and landed. mahasni that the consul, we or soldier; of my This Mole consists at presentof nothing being aware spatched arrival,hnd dethan him of immense number conduct an to more to his me large house. loose stones, which run dred He then motioned about five hunme to follow yards into the bay ; they are part him, which I did,the old port-captain the ruins of a magnificent which of he turned us to the gate,when attending pier who were the last foreign aside into a building, the English, which I judged
which held Tangier,destroyed to be a kind of custom-house from the bales and boxes of every description they evacuated the place. The Moors have never the gate to repair piled attempted up before it. We passed and proceeded it: the surf at high water breaks over and a steep winding up it with great fury. I found it a difficult left was ascent full our a battery ; on of the task to pick my way over the slipand t o on our pery sea, g-uns, pointing twice in part a massive or wall,seemingly stones, and should once riglit have fallen but for the kindness of the cut out of the hill : a little higherup we arrived at an openingwhere Genoese mariners. At last we reached stood the tlie beach, and were towards mentioned. proceeding mosque which I have already the gate of the to'wn, when As I gazed upon the tower I said to two persons, I almost started Moors, came myself, Surelywe have here a younger up to us. sister of the Giraldaof of the first: he was at sight a huge old Seville." nation

when

"

barbarian

Avith a white uncombed

beard,

I know between

not whether

turban, haik,and trousers, naked dirty and immense the heels legs, splayfeet,
of which

the

two

the resemblance edifices has been observed

by any other individual ; and stood out a couple of inches those who would perhaps there are his rusty black slippers. at least behind assert that no resemblance exists, especially " That is the captain of the port," if,in forming an opinion, they
said
one

" much were swayed by size and colour : ; pay him the hue d offed of the Giralda is red,or rather respect." accordingly my hat and cried," Sba alkheir a sidi" (^Good vermilion, whilst that which predominates in the Djmah of Tangier is green, morning, my lord). "Are you Eng-

of the I

Genoese

lishmans?"
"

shouted the old grisly the bricks of which it is built beingof giant. Englishmans,my lord," I that colour ; though between them, at him certain intervals, are replied, and, advancing, presented placedothers of a he nearly wrung off light red tinge, that the tower is so iny hand, which with his tremendous gripe. The other With beautifully variegated. respect Moor now in a jargon to size, addressed me beside the giant witch standing of of bic. Araa nd the Seville, would composed English, Spanish, TangerineDjmah A queer-looking show in the vicilike a ten-year nity sapling pei'sonage was he

also, but

respects from
shorter

very his

different in

most

of the trunk have

cedar

of Lebanon,

whose

companion, being

and le^s by a head at least, completeby one eye, for the left orb of vision was closed,leavinghim, as the Spaniardsstyle ever, tiierto ; he,howit, far outshone of From what he the other in cleanliness
ti'ousers.

the tempests of five hundred years And yet I will assert that woiTi. in other respectsare and that the
same one

the towers the same, the the

same
same

and and

mind

turban, haik, and

that he

lected even jabberedto me, I colthe Englishconsul's was on

designare manifested in both ; and the same shapedo theyexhibit, marks have theyon their walls, those mysteriousarches graven of the bricks, the superfice emblem-

316

THE
I know

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

atic of

and distingTUohed what. The not two of the verses "-ithout any violence, Koran; it was school. Anotbir a may, be said to stand in the same relation to lesson for thee, papist. Thou callest each other as the ancient and modern a Christian,yet the book of thyself Moors. The Giralda is the world's Christ thou persecutest huntest ; thou
structures

wonder,
the Moor heard examine is

and

the

old INIoor

was

all but modem

ment,
it even
to to

the

sea-shore, compellingit
the billows of the
a

world's of the

conqueror.
tower

The and

seek

refugeupon

known, scarcely
of

who

ever

sea.

it will with its first accents the most importfind in that tower much, very much, to of the book of his law, and ant portions if opportunity considers himself wise or foolish, admire, and certainly, cording acyou
as

Tangier? and attentively, you

Yet

Fool, learn ]Moor,who teaches

lesson his child

from
to

the

repeat
I

enable Moor

to

consider

the

modern in knowest

as

he

is versed

in

or

ignorant
'

minutely, you

will discover

of that book
not

him,
that
not
a

and is

in his actions, amongst much wild, imcouth, and barbarous, littlecapableof amply rewarding
we

; whilst thou, blind slave, what the book of thy own

law contains,nor wishest to know : yet art thou not to be judged by thy own law? learn consistency Idoi-monger, the Moor
:

laborious As for
a

investigation. passedthe mosque

before the
:

I I

stopped
and
thing no-

from be

he

says

that he

shall

moment

door,
saw

looked

in upon but
a

the interior

fore law, and therejudged after his own he prizesand heart the by gets

quadrangularcourt paved entire book of his law. "with painted We tiles and exposed to the at the consul's house, were now sky ; on all sides vrere arciied piazzas,a large roomy habitation,built in the soldier led me and in the middle was at a fountain, English style. The which several Moors were performing througha court into a largehall himg
their ablutions. the abominable the tian church in every house of
as a

I looked

around found

for

with

the skins of all kinds

of ferocious

thingand
of the
stare
"

sin besetting
coi'ner.

did not take of God

animals, from the kingly lion to the received pseudo-Ciu'isjackal. Here I was snarling in the face me by a Jew domestic,"who conducted me
at
once

it not ;

and "'papist,

Coa'.e here," said I, a lesson;here is a

at

to

the

consul,who
me

was

in his the utmost

library.He
and

received and

with

God,

in externals

such least, be
:

frankness

genuinekindness,

house

walls, a

that,having received mament firhis friend Mr. B., and the from excellent eternal letter a fountain, which mirrors his in which I was recommended, above, glory. strongly
me

should

four

informed

Dost thou build such houses

who walls
a

to

the God
to

he

had

hast

said,

'

Thou

shalt make

in the house
was,

alreadyengaged me a lodging who of a Spanish woman,

a

no thyself

are

Fool, thy graven image' ? stuck with idols ; thou callest

rotpieceof ting Heaven. Fool,
a

however,
he
as

British comfortable

and subject, that I should

as

with whom find

believed in such

stone

thy Father,and wood the Queen of

knowest He
not
even

myself to be possible
He and

it
as

was

thou thee. of
no

the Ancient
can

of

then

Days, and

at

the very Moor least knows

'

instruct shalt have I heard

an a-

motive particular I informed

came a

place if I had any inquired for visiting the place,

a

gier. Tan-

the Ancient

him

without of

hesitation tributing of dis-

Days who has said other gods but me.'

And
as

Thou
"

that I

with Testament

the

intention

certain number in the

I said these words

the New of the

me

of copies guage Spanishlan-

cry like the roaringof a lion, and awful voice in the distance exclaim," A

amongst
to

pul Udhaifh (thereis no

We
now

"

God

but

one).

turned

to

the left througha

which

place. with considerable caution, proceed coursed I promisedto do. We then dison

the Christian residents He smiled, and advised

passedunder the tower, passage which and had scarcely a few procv'cded steps,
"when I heard
a :

other of

and subjects,

it was
was

not

longbefore I
company
a

that I perceived
most

in the Latin

hubbub prodigious I listened for a

mo-

of

lar, schoaccomplished
and

Infantinevoices

in the Grepk especially

CHAP.

LV.J

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

317 the and

like-wise to be thoIn the middle roughly of the soc, upon appeared with the Barbary stones, were of melons p}'ramids acquainted and species), empireand with the Moorish character. sandias (the water classics ; he After half
an

also hour's conversation, baskets filledwith other kinds of fruit, and instructive whilst round cakes of exposedfor sale, exceedingly agreeable
to

I expresseda wish to promyself, ceed to my lodging: Avhereupon he the

bread the hams

were

lying here

and

stones, beside which

the

sat

there upon tiieir on

rang
me,

bell,and, the
who entering

same

Jewish introduced

domestic

had

the most

wildest-looking beings that ever extravagant imagination

head covered with
an

lauin the English he said to him " the this to Take gentleman gTiage, Mahonese the house of Joanna Correa,

conceived,the
enormous

least two in circumference, the eaves of

straw

hat,at

yards
which,

widow,
take
care

and

her,in enjoin

of him

to my name, and attend to his comforts

flappingdown, completelyconcealed
the in
were

;
me

by

doingwhich

she will confirm I at present will increase

whilst the form face, from which a blanket, thrust

were

was

swathed

in the

which good opinion

skinny arms
Moorish
all
women,

and

occasionally fingers.
who and
were,

entertain of her, and my

These I

to befriend her." disposition bent So, attended by the Jew, I now for the to lodgingprepared my steps ascended in the street me. Having

ugly, from the countenances of which judging I caught a glimpse as they lifted the
eaves

in believe,

old instances,

of their hats
or

to
me

which

the house of the consul

vre

was

ated, situ-

passed,
on

to

curse

gaze on for whole

me

as

stamping
soc was

entered

small

square which

their

bread.

The

stands about half way

my
soc,

though the hour was shining with the I thought that I the square were small wooden booths, greatest brilliancy, which resembled witnessed much livelier ever a large had scarcely very the iid scene. their sides, boxes turned on the soc, we entered a narrow being supportedabove by a string. Crossing kind of box-shops Before each of these boxes was a species street with the same of coimter, or rather one each of on some counter side, which, however, long in front of the whole either unoccupied or not were ran line,upon yet which and lid We the most alclosed. small d ates, were raisins, opened, being the barrels of sugar, soap, and butter, turned and to left, immediately
tacle specround
as

companion A curious or market-place. itself. All here presented

up the hill. informed was me,

This,
the

full of 0^

abundance was and tion, vociferabustle, screaming,

and the sun, still early, was

and there people,

each various other articles. Within and in the front of about box, counter, three feet from the

up low

street

somewhat which

and similar, the door

at the

my
of
a

entered guide presently house stood

ground,sat

man hu-

corner

with a blanket on its shoulders, of a littlealley, and which lie informed being, its head, and turban the abode of Joaima Correa. a on me was dirty We stood in the midst of this habitation. soon ragged trousers, which descended as far as the knee, though in some inI say the midst, as all the these were stf.nces, I believe, entirely Moorish houses are built with a small with. its This In hand it held a in the middle. court one was dispensed
to stick,

the end of which

was

affixed

not

more

than ten

bunch

of

which itwaved incessantly palm leaves, open of as a fan,for the sides ing scarpurpose
a

at

the top,and

feet square. It was it on around three

were

from itsgoods the million flies which, the voured engendered Barbary sun, endeaby

small

with

apartments : on tlie fourth which communicated staircase, the upper story, half of which
a

it,and
same

them. Behind to settle upon either of the on side,were piles

consisted of

terrace

down looking

into

the court, over

the

Ioav walls of which

SJirititinui, kind of goods. shrit lii- you enjoyeda prospect of the sea and nai (buyhere,buy here), The was continuallya considerable part of the town. from its moutli. Such taken up by a long are rest of the story was proceeding of Tangier, destined for myself, such their shops. room, and which tjje gi'ocers

SIS

THE

BIBLE

IN her

SPAIN.

fCHAP.

l.V.

opened upon the terrace by a pair of At either end of this folding-doors. stood versely transa bed, extending apartment
from the touching
or

-svallto wall, the canop}^ A table and two ceiling. the furniture. completed in the occupied inspecting

three chairs I
was so

house She

of Joanna

Correa, that
to

at

first I

paidlittleattention
now,

that

lady herself.
up upon the and myself

however,
where my

came

fingerto her forehead, and she hoped that I would not be offended at anythingextraordinary in his languageor behaviour. She then left me, as she said,to give orders for breakfast;whereupon the Je-wdsh my had domestic, who accompanied me from the consul, findingthat I was established in the house, departed. I speedily to breakfast in sat down
therefore
an

terrace
were

guide

apartment

on

the

left side of

the

little wustuddur; the fare was lent excela woman standing. She was with regularfeaabout five and fortj', tures, and : tea, fried fish, eggs, grapes, which had once been handsome, the celebrated bread of not forgetting but had received considerable waited injury Joanna Correa. I was upon from from tall Jewish of a time, and perhaps more by youth about twenty of her front teeth had but disappeared, she stillhad fine black trouble. hair. As I looked upon her
nance, counte-

Two

years, who Haim was

informed Ben

me

that his

name

I said within be truth in

myself,if there

a Atar, that he was native of Fez, from whence his parents brought him at a very early age to

physiognomy,thou art good 0 Joanna; and, indeed,the and gentle, from her during kindness I experienced
the six weeks neath
convert

which have had

no

her roof would I believe

I spent be made a me I doubted and beat and in of Joanna

passed the in greater part of his life principally the service of Joanna Correa, waiting those who, like myself,lodged upon in the house. I had completed my Tangier, where
he

had

to that science

meal,and
when several

was

in it before.
more

warmer ever

I heard
to that

seated in the littlecourt, in the apartment opposite I liad breakfasted

were

affectionate bosom the

heart

in which

human

than

in that

which sighs, groans, and

succeeded
came
"

by
Ave

Correa,
was

Mahonese

widow,

it

as

many

then

indexed

by
and

features

benevolence somewhat She married and four

clouded
me

ora Maria, gratia beaming with plena, pro me," and voice chanted a croaking : good nature, though finally with melancholy. Gentem aiiferte perfidani
"

"

informed
to
a

that she

had

been of
a

Genoese, the

master

felouk which

passedbetween Gibraltar who had been dead about Tangier, years, leavingher with a family
the children,
a

Credentium Ut Christo Persolvamus

"

de finibus, laudes debitas alacriter."

That Ben

is the old
"

Haim

Avhich he eldest of which devotion when he happensto have gone of thirteen ; that she had bed the in to preceding evening rather in experienced difficulty ing providgreat a picture for her family and herself since liquor. He has in his room

of four
was

Genoese,"whispered Atar, prayingto his God, always does with particular

lad

the death

of her

husband,but
a

vidence of tliatProfew excellent

had raised her up

friends,
:

that

such bread the in

the British consul especially letting lodgingsto travellers as myself, slie made with in high esteem Avhich was besides that she the
was

INIaria Buckra, before which burns a generally taper, and on he will never account permit me
enter
me

he her
to

his apartment.

He and

once

looking at her,
have

ctuight thoughthe

would he he

Moors, and

likewise

always

killed me, and since then locked, keeps his chamber

in partnership

sale of

and licpiors

carries the
out.

key
He

in his hates

when pocket and

now

She added, that with an old Genoese. this last person lived below in one of the of apartments ; that he was a man and biit much learning, great ability

goes Moor, and

"

both Jew

amongst

says them for his sins." do

not

that he

is

living
before

They

place tapers

said I, and strolled forth to that she believed he was pictures," occasionally of the land. tliewonders with see touched here, pointing Bomewhat

THE for

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap. lti.

if you wish for slippers for of the dead are ; sibat, ; the resting-places them seek there, severally distinguished your feet, you must by a few stones and from there the also
are

sold curious of the

our

things arrangedso
Near left
are

towns

Nazarenes.

Those large houses on habitations of Nazarene

have
seen

consuls;you

gier
as

'

to

form

an

oblongcircle.

the

Sidi Gali : but | sleeps saint of Tangierlies interred principal Mokhfidh

on

many

therefore
at

why
Do

such in your own land, should you stay to look

centre

of

or chapel

the top of the hill,in the small plain, A beautiful with vaulted roof, is mosque,
a

admire this not you street of the Siarrin ? Whatever enters or goes out of Tangier by the laud passes riches

them?

erected in various

there

in The el

his

honour, which
with banners and his

is of

general

adorned

dyes.

name

of this saint
mory me-

through
that

this street.

Oh,

the

is INIohammed
is held in occurred These time
or

Hadge,
utmost

pass those camels, what whole cafila descending a twenty, thirty,

through

Behold

this street ! a longtrain ; those

in the the

veneration of the the

Tangierand
at

its vicinity. His death

commencement

the street. camels, I know O Sidi Fez ? And

now

Wullah

! I know

present century.
details I either
on

the driver.

Good

day,
at the

at gathered

Hassim, in how
we are

many arrived

days from

the north

wall, and we must pass under this gate. town, js a This gate is called Bab del Faz ; we said the old INIahasni, gi^anga flom-ish
are now

On side of the soc, close by the wall with a gate. " Come," hand the
"

subsequentoccasions.

in the Soc de Barra." Soc de Barra is

an

with show

his

Come,

and

will

place garden of a Nazarene you consul." I followed him beyond the upper Avail of Tangier,on through the the side of the hill. The ground is gate, and found myself in a spacious and steep; there are, however, irregular garden laid out in the Em'opean taote, and planted level spots. In with lemon and pear trees, some tolerably this place, shrubs. every Thursday and Sunday and various kinds of aromatic is held,on It was, however, evident that the owner of mart morning,a species which it is called Soc de Barra, chiefly account prided himself on his flowers, Here and of which there were beds. or the outward numerous market-place.
open

The

there,near

the

town

ditch,
a

are

There terranean sub-

was

handsome
to

summer-house,
exhausted itself

with pits, the circumference

small of

about orifices,

placecomplete. chimney,which covered One with sence a was are thing wanting,and its abgenerally stone, large stuffed with straw. These remarkable in or a are was strangely pits in and this time of the which at wheat, garden granaries, barley, year ; scarcely direst of other species The of grainintended for sale to be seen. a leaf was stored. side are which devastated Egypt all the plagues On one are or two
three rude which neath huts, or rather sheds, bewatch the keep guardians It is veiy
was now

and art seemed in making the

have

busy
was

the locust
more

at

in this part of Africa work, and in no place

"

of the
pass
town
numerous

corn.

over

this hill at
are

dangerousto night,after the

at

than fiercely

in

ga^es

closed, as

that time

I was now spot where around looked blasted. brown and bald

particular st:mding. All

The
trees
were

the

as dogs are Notliing tlie let loose,who would to a certainty the fruits, pull green save especially and of which were down, perhapsdestroy, any stranger grapes, huge clusters who should draw nigh. Half way up dependingfrom the "parras;" for the

and large

ferocious

in winter.

the hill

are a

seen

four

white
ten

closing locust walls, in-

touches

not

the

fruit whilst

As leaf remains to be devoured. single we alongthe walks these horrible passed tion, insects flew against in every direcus terminates and perished Here the by hund^'eds beneath years ago. said the See the ayanas," the remainder of the hill is called feet. our soc; El Kawar, or the placeof graves, being old INIahasni, and hear them eating. Powerful is the ayana, more the common ground of Tanpowerful burj-ing feet square, whei'e rest the bones of Sidi Mokhfidh, who died some teen fifa saint of celebrity,

spot about

"

"

CHAP.

LVI.]
or

THE the consul. he send

BIBLE
Should with
'

IN

SPAIN.
which in is bears the

321

than the sultan the

the tree There

pricklyfig,
del Inde.

the sultan send all his Mahasuiah ayana,

against called
me

Moorish, Kermous

should

wild and something

grotesque

them, the

Powerful the consul.

' Ha ! ha ! ayana would say, He fears not is the ayana !

A I
am

said,
and So he

'

sul ago the conthe than stronger ayana,

few weeks

in the appearance of this tree or plant, for I know not which to call it. Its of the thickness stem, thoughfrequently of a man's body, has no head,but divides

him from the land.' itself, short distance from at a the extirpate the O into crooked city, through ground, branches, many which shoot in all directions, ! speed forth to fightthe and bear Tangerines for him in the and uncouth about hah destroy leaves, egg ; green ayana, know that whosoever shall bring me inch in thickness, and which, if they an one pound weight of the eggs of the resemble any thing, present the appearance him Avill I five reals of the fins of a seal, unto fore and consist give ayana, of Spain; there shall be no ayanas this of multitudinous fibres. The fruit, resembles a pear, has year.' So all Tangier rushed forth to which somewhat the and the collect to a tight ayana, rough tegument covered with minute eggs the ayana had laid to hatch which which instantly enter the hand prickles, beneath the sides of the the sand on which touches them, however slightly, and in the roads,and in the plains. and are hills, I very difiicult to extract. I will shouted
'
"

And

my

own

child,who

is seven

years

never

forth to fight the ayana, and he alone collected eggs to the weightof five pounds, eggs which the ayana had
went old,

remember in ranker

to have

seen

tion vegetathat

luxuriance

than

which

these

placedbeneath
them the
to the

the

sand,and

he carried

and consul,
more
or

the consul

paid
the

the upon '" FolloAY me," said the Mahasni, I will show you something which will like to see." So left, leadingthe way he turned
a narrow

exhibited, nor fig-trees w^hole a more singxdar spot.

"

and

price. And
consul,

hundi-eds

carried eggs

you to the

to the

less, and

by

path

and in less consul paidthem the price, than three daysthe treasure chest of the consul
'

reached the up the steep bank, tillwe summit of a hillock, separated by a

was

exhausted.

And

! perhaps cried, Desist,O Tangerines

we we

have have

the destroyed them destroyed you, has

ayana, all.'

deep ditch from the wall of Tangier. The ground was covered with thickly perhaps the trees already described,which Ha ! ha ! spread their strange arms along the
and whose thick surface, beneath
our

then

he

Look
and

aroimd above

you, and beneath you, and tell me whether ayana. More

feet

as

we

leaves crushed walked along.

ful powerthan the sultan and all his armies." It Avill be as well to observe here, from this time all that within a week the locusts had no one disappeared, knew

destroyedthe powerful is the ayana ! powerfulthan the consul, more

Oh,

the consul

Amongst
ber of

them

stone

I observed a large mmislabs lyinghorizontally ;

rudelyscrawled over with I stooped down to inspect. Are you Talib enough to ? exclaimed read those signs the old Moor. cursed They are letters of the acthey were
odd characters,which
" " "

Jews ; this is their mearrah, as remained. stragglers liverance, deprovidential they call it,and here they inter their the fieldsand gardens in the dead. Fools, theytrust in Muza, when of Tangier would have been vicinity theymight believe in Mohammed, and These shall burn everdevastated. of therefore their dead insects lastingly were totally and of a loathly in Jehinnim. See, an immense sultan, size, my aspect. of the soc We how fat is the soil of this mearrah now to the over passed what keiinous where the the of JcAvs stand huts see side, opposite grow ; the guardians. Here a species of lane here. "\\"hen I was a boy I often came

how, only a
But

few

for this

which presents itself, sea-shore ; it is and resembles a

descends
and ravine.

to the

to the mearrah

of the Jews
season

to eat

mous ker-

deep gullyor
are

precipitous,
The The

in the Moslem

of

boys of

ripeness. Tangier love the

of the Jeifls;
Y

their

banks

on

either side

covered

with

kermous

of the mearrah

322

THE
the Jews

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.

[chap, lvt.

will not gather them. beingblanched with time and exposure that the the of waters They say springs to sun and wind, whilst to others the "which nourish the roots of these trees fiesh stillpartly clung; whole carcases the bodies their of were the dead, here, horses,asses, and even pass among and
to
or

but

for that
taste

reason

it is

an

abomination

uncouth

remains

of

camel.

Gaimt

of these
one

fruits.

be

it not,
manner

this true, is in certain, thing

are

Be

dogs were busy here,growling, tearing, and gnawing ; amongst whom, unintimidated,
stalked the carrion

whatever
the kermous

nourished, good
grow

vulture,

which

in the mearrah

of the Jews."

and even fiercely battening disputing with the brutes the garbage ; whilst the
crow

We returned to the lane by the same we as path by which we had come: ithe said, Know, my "were descending tliatthe name of the place where sultan,
"

hovered

overhead,

and
"

croaked

or occasionally wistfully, perchedupon some See,"said upturned rib bone.

the

]\Iahasni, the
"

kawar has
seen

of the

mals. ani-

and which like much, is Dar Sinah

we
now

are,

you
me see

say

you it Jews the die

]My

sultan and

the kawar of the

{the house of of the Moslems

the mearrah

the

trades).You
that
nor
nor

will ask
as

why

bears house

name,

you

neither

he sees here the kawar of ; and animals. All the animals which in

man,

rene, will tell you, my sultan,for who can tell you better than myself? Learn, I pray what you, that it is now, which place the

Jew,

neither Moslem, Nazaonly our two selves ; I

Tangier by
here

the

hand
are

of

God,

horse, dog, or
this spot, and

camel,

brought to or are theyputrefy

or

devoured
the wild chali.

by

the birds of the heaven that

Tangier was
nor

not

did it occupy
now.

always always
It stood

creatures

prowl

on

the

Come,

the

it does

to yonder (pointing

the

those on east) ruins

of

hills above

shore, and
seen

still to be houses are the spot is called Old the old Dar

there,and
So in

Tangier.
heard

say, this the strand : the horseman, when he saw out street,whether withwithin the wall matters his with much culty, diffisteed or not, and us, pulled up there resided men of all trades ; smiths and joinedus. The horse was of gold,and silver, and iron, and tin, small but beautiful,a sorrel with long and artificersof all kinds : you had only main and tail ; had he been hoodwinked he might perhaps have been mistaken to go to the Dar Sinah if you wished for any thing wrought, and there inbroadstantly for a Cordovese jaca; he was in his hind find and rotimd of the would a master chested, ters, quaryou
Sinah
was a

time, as

I have

to leave the spot, preparing down the a galloping Dar Sinah,and presently horse and a rider darted at full speed from the mouth of the lane and appeared upon

to remain We were

it is not my sultan, in this place." long heard

good

when

we

craft. particular he likes the look

My

sultan

tells
at

me

and and would the

much possessed sleekness but been which

of the

of Dar

Sinah
not
not

the

ness plumpdistinguish

present day; truly I know

wh^--,that breed,
yet in If he
my have

in looking

especially the kermous

as

are

undeceived

his eyes you in a moment

their sultan when and the

nor ripeness,

likes Dar have it

was

Sinah liked

fit to eat. how would now, it in the old

filled with and

and could scarcely be restrained desperately, by a strong curb and powerful long arrived at from arm cunning men ? We are now resuming his former headthe Chali del Bahar Take The rider was a course. (sea-shore). youth, tread upon bones." dressed as a about eighteen, we care, my sultan, apparently We had emerged from the Dar Sinah, European,with a Montero cap on his and the sea-shore was before us ; on head : he was built, but a athletically found ourselves amongst a with lengthy his feet, for he rode sudden we limbs, multitude of bones of all kinds of animals, without or saddle, reaching stirrups and seemingly of all dates ; some almost to the ground ; hio complexion

iron and

gold and tin,and was noisywith

the masters and

time, silver, loyalanimal, he occasionally plunged

tlie

fire darted from ; a wild savage biting restless orbs, and so for from exhithe docility of the otliernoble and

hammers,

CHAP.

LYI.]
almost
as

THE
dark
as

BIBLE
a

IN

SPAIN.

323

was

that of

latto Muthe

; his features

very

handsome,

particularly so, but filled with an which bold and bad ; was expression and there was look of sena disgusting suality
eyes about
a

the mouth.

He

addressed

ever,
him

being unavailing to ride hira nuously deeperin,he fell to washing him strewith his hands, then leading
out, he
dressed

himself

and

turned re-

by

"

Good

the way he came. the horses of the are

lems," Moswill ther neitious cau-

few words seemed who

"

he

to the Mahasni, with whom inquiring to be well acquainted, you

was.

The

old

man

swered, an-

O Jew, my

sultan understands better address lad then

They rocky mountains at full speed and fall ; but you must be nor trip
with the horses them with Moslems
treat

said my old find such?

friend,
"

where

will

descend

speech,thou hadst The to him." thyself

our

of the Moslems,

spoke

and

kindness,for
are

the

to

me

in

Arabic,

but almost

instantlyhorses of the
"

dropping that language,proceeded to

discourse in tolerable French.
you
are

they lik""not beingslaves.

are

proud,and When they

French,"
"

I pose supwith he said

and firstmounted, jerk not young their mouths with your bit, for be sure

or familiarity ; shall you stay long if you do they will kill you ; sooner in Tangier?" swer, later,you will perish beneath their Having received an anfeet. Good "as he proceeded, an our are horses,and good you are of lems our riders, Englishman, you are doubtless fond yea, very good are the Mosw heliever at mounting the horse ; who horses ; know, therefore, are you like them ? I once Frank for a ride,I will accomrider pany saw a are disposed this beach, on compete with a Moslem you, and procure you horses. My and at first stablethe Frank is Ephraim Fragey : I am rider had it all name and he passed who prizes his own the Moslem, consvd, boy to the Neapolitan way, the best horses but the course himself upon possessing was long, very long, and the horse of the Frank rider, in Tangier; you shall mount which any you like to try this was a Frank also, panted; but the horse please. Would you f I thanked him, of the Moslem aoud (stallion) little pantednot, for he was a

much

but

declined his offer for the present, Moslem

also, and the Moslem

rider at

time how he asking him at the same and had acquired the French language, why he, a Jew, did not appear in the
in the dress of his brethren ? "I am service of a consul," said he, " and my that I might obtained permission master

last gave a cry and the horse sprang forward and he overtook the Frank

horse,and

then the Moslem How his did

up in his saddle. Truly he stood on

rider stood he stand ? and these

head,

dress myself in this manner ; and as to seilles and he cried ha ! ha ! as he passed the speaking French, I have been to Marand Naples, last place Frank horse to which rider; and the Moslem cried ha! ha! as he passed the the Frank I conveyed horses, presents from sultan. Besides French, I can tance. speak breed,and the Frank lost by a far disItalian." He then dismounted, and Good are the Franks ; good their holdingthe horse firmlyby the bridle horses ; but better are the Moslems, and with one better the horses of the Moslems." hand, proceededto undress directed our himself, which having accomplished, We now steps towards and rode into the town, but not by the pathwe the animal he mounted came : The skin of his body was the water. to the left under the hill of the turning akin in colour to that of a frog mean-ah, and along the strand, much soon we with a that of a to a came toad, but the frame was or rudely-paved way young
water
a

him ; he stood on his head in eyes saw the saddle as he passed the Frank rider ;

Titan. with

The

horse the his

took shore

to

the
at

steep ascent, which

wall of the town
on one

wound
a

beneath

the

and miwillingness, gi'eat from whom rider,

to

gate,before which,
various

small

distance

menced com-

side,were

little pits

with struggling he twice dashed

from his back ; the lad, deand tained however, clung to the bridle, the animal. All his efibrts how-

like graves, filled with water or lime. " This is Dar hasni Dwag," said the Maand
" this is the ; to this house are

house

of the

bark,

broughtthe hides ;

324

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
two

[chap. LTl.
we were

all those which are preparedfor use in Tangierare broughtto this house, and here they are cured with lime, and

or

at the door

bran, and bark,and hei'bs.

Dar Dwug there pits forty ; I have and there
to
were are
one

And

in this and

hundred
them have hired many
one

counted

myself;
now
cient. an-

nute
Correa.
I
noAV

oifered my
as a

of anna Jokind

guidea pieceof

silver

tion remunera-

for his trouble, whereupon he di'ew himself up and said :

"

mors

which

silver of my sultan I will not take, for I consider that I have done
"

The

ceased

be, for the placeis very

these

And
one,
nor

by
cure

two, but

pits by

are

not

by

people,
of these he may
one

deserve it. We have not visited all the wonderful thingsof yet this blessed town. On a future day I

nothing to

and whosoever

list can

rent

pitsand
and

the hides which

owner

need ; but the

of all is the

man,

will conduct my sultan to the castle of the governor, and to other places which sultan will and when be gladto see ; my
we

his

name

is Cado

Ableque.

And of

have

seen

all we

now seen me, my in the soc the bark, and I will shew him nothing me of a this day ; for to-dayis Youm al basket in my hand, and he see nothing more and the gates will be in that basket, then is my Jmual sultan at shut whilst the Moslems in my as a friend to put grapes liberty presently form per-

sultan has

house

is content

with

can, and my sidtan if at any time he see morning, av ith my

{Friday),

So I will accompany basket,or bread in my basket, or fish in my basket. That will I not or meat my sultan to the guest house, and there I will leave him for the present." refuse of my sultan,when I shall have We for him than I have now. passed through a done more accordingly their devotions.
a gate, and ascending

srreet

lound

selves our-

But take

the
now

silver of my
nor

before

the

mosque

Avhere in another

I had mi-

at any

time."

sultan will I not He then

stood in the

morning;

waved

his hand

and departed. gently,

CHAPTER
Strange Trio
"

LVII.
"

The

Mulatto"

The

Moors Peace-offering
Blind

of Granada" The

Vive

la

Guadeloupe"

The

Moors"

Pascual Fava"

Algerine"

Retreat.

Three

men

were

seated in the wustudI entered ; they all were,

never

eyes
ATas

dur of Joanna

Correa, when
were

like diamonds, and there sparkled of good indescribable an expression and fun upon

men singular-looking though perhaps three

humour

his

cotmteuance.

togethermore
other in all

unlike first on about

to

The tlaird man was a Mulatto, and gathered remarkable each for the most personage whom the group : he sixty, and forty ; his

by
of

points.The
was
a man

I cast ray eye

dressed in a grey kersej-mere coat with short lappets, yellow waistcoat, and
wide head and with and his him
coarse
was a

canvass

trousers

; upon

his

might be between thirty and, body was very long, exliithough uncouthly put together, of strength and mark bited every cased in it a ferioul of red was vigour ;
descends
muscular from the

very in his hand

broad he

straw dirty

a kind of garment which hat, Avool, cane

held

thick

below and

handle ; his eyes were bleared ivory face and his rubicund, squinting,
nose

hips. were hairy arms

the

His

long
naked

much
a

car

bunded.

Beside

good-looldngblack, who perhapsappeared more negro than he ture from the circumstance of kandrisa as far as the knee ; every feareallywas, his being dressed in spotlesswhite of his foce was ugly, exceedingly jean jerkinwaistcoat,and pantaloonsand bitterly ugly, and one of his eyes beingall of that material : his head gear was being covered Avith a sightless, consisted of a blue Montero Avhite film. By his side on the ground cap. His
sat
"

elbow, Avhere tlie sleeves of tlie ferioul short terminate ; his imder limbs Avere in comparison with his body and arms; blue Iiislogs Avere bare, but he were

CHAP.

LTII.

THE

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
the most noble. Who Who is the Pasha ? pashasand consuls now, bui
am

was

cask, which
a

barrel,seeminglya waterlarge he occasionally seized with and waved and over thumb, finger
a gs

time,that
are

the consuls ?
are were

They
who
nor

his head Such I had have

was

if it had

been
now

quart pot.

their fathers ? But ?

I know

not,

the

trio who of Joanna

to

occupied
:

do

they.
were

the wustixddur

Correa

and I

time scarcely from

a

remark

what

viy fathers of Garnata

that
man

do I not know who Were Moors not they is it not

on
am

(Granada), and
that I

when justrecorded, back

tliatgood lady
court

account

the
am

strongest
of the old

entered handmaid

vfith her mole

in

Tangier?

Yes, I
and

Johar, or

the
an

an pearl, ugly

Rloors of lived I Garnata

fat Jewish
on
"

girlwith
reinate

immense

Garnata, here, as is well

Avas am

my

familyhas

her cheek.

lost to the

known, since Nazarenes, and

Que
your

Dios

tn
"

vomhre"
Allah and

claimed now ex-

the of
on

only one
the old that than

the Mulatto
out name,

may
of

blot

the blood

of my familyof INIoors in all this

I
am

Joanna,
that

likewise blot out It is more Johar,

that I have been

he may maid your

land,
nobler

and

account

of
the

blood

the

sultan,for

than fifteen minutes seated here, after

sultan is not of tlieblood of the Moors of Garnata. Do you laugh, Joanna?

the having poured out into the tinaja which I brought from the fountain, water and during all that time I have waited in vain for one word of single from from Johar. or civility yourself

Does
not

Widdir, el homhre valido de Tancjer is it not ? And

that I
am

your Hammin

maid

Johar

laugh?

Am
mas

true

of the blood and have

of the Moors

of

Garnata ?

and Deny it, your been maid

Usted This

no

tiene

modo, you

have has in

no

ner man-

both,you
"

I will kill you Johar."

You hsheesh and eating Tangier majoon,Hammin," said Joanna Correa, where I am has entered into you, not received with fitting and the Shaitan he but too frequently love and respect, and yet I have done does. I have as for you than for any other perbeen busy, and has Johar, or we so more son. with I not filled your tinaja should Have have spoken to you before ; doorshee does not signiwhen other people have mai water however, (it fy), gone the conI know how to pacify and without a drop? When even sul you riow of the consul had and the interpreter at all times ; will you take some ters, gin-bithave you of common makhiah water ? to slake their thirst, no or a glass wustudsaid O not had enough to wash Joanna," May you burst, your
more you, nor is the only house
" " "

with

Johar.

dur ?

And kind
as a

what word

is my

return

When

the

Miilatto,

"

and

may

Johar

also

I arrive in the heat

not
one

of the makhiah

day,I have
me,
nor so

spokento

burst ; I mean, may you both live many neither pain nor row. soryears, and know I

much
me

glassof

I tell you Truly I must, for you you, Joanna ? have no with you. Do I not manner
; must
come

offered to all that I do for

will take

the

O gin-bitters,

Joanna,because they are stronger than the makhiah, which always appears to
me

like

water; and
I carry it. here

I like not

water,
to

hour

every ; and

morning justat
do I
not not

the third
at

though
you, She

Many

thanks
to

knock arise and

door ; and do you

your let me

Joanna;
had

is health

you

Joanna, and
filled to the

to this

in,and

then do I not knead your bread in your presence, whilst you lie in bed, and because I knead it is not yours the best bread in Tangier? For am I not

handed

good company." him a large tumbler

he

brim;
to his

put it

snuffed in the nostrils,

and flavour, of the

applyingit
not

mouth,

his then removed it

to

the
most

strongest
noble

man

in

and Tangier,

the

whilst

one

drop

fluid

mained. re-

also ? "

Here

he brandished from and

his head, and his face his barrel over " Hear me, looked almost demoniacal.

His features gradually relaxed their former expression, angry amiable looking particularly
a

at

Joanna,"
that I
am

he

continued,

"

the strongest man

know Joanna, he at last said : you " in Tangier, I hope that witliin

littletime,O

and I tell you

for the thousandth again,

Joanna, you

will

be

that I persuaded

326

THE
the
am

BIBLE

IN

SPAIN.
am a

[CHAP.

LVir

am

strongest man
from

in

Tangier,and

myself,who
amongst Christ,nor
"

Christian, to live
know
not

sprung of Garnata, as longer refuse to take Moors you and your Moors. maid What

that I

the blood of the then you will no

me

race

who

God,
"

nor

for

husband,
to

What ?

any do you is

thingholy? "
mean," said I,
IMoors know

by
not

Johar, and
a

come be-

that asserting God who and There entertain

the
no

glory to
to
a

you,
ceive re-

peoplein
than

the world

after and

having been given birth

married
to

Genoui,

sublimer

notions of the
the

Genouillos, to

micreated
no

eternal God
ever

Moors,
selves them-

to

and for husband a INIoor like me, blood of children of the bear him "What
a

peoplehave
more

shown

Garnata. how much

even

glorytoo

for Johar,

glory:
God
to

Jew,

a ^ile better than to marry like Hayim Ben Atar, or

and their very zeal for the gloryof has been and is the chief obstacle

zealous

for his honour

your cook Sabia, both of whom for with two fingers, strangle Hammin

I could
am

I not

becoming Christians. They compromisinghis dignity that he ever condescended by supposing

are

their

afraid of

of him Christ,their ideas even are much than those the pists Paof more just departed. Is that Mulatto really what he ; they say he is a mighty prophet, I be?" to the others, he is said according whilst, to to Joanna; pretends is he a descendant of the IMoors of either a piece of bread,or a helpless

hombre then shouldered his barrel and

"

Moro Widdir valido de mas

de Garnata, el Tangeri" He

to

become

man.

And

with

respect to

"

Granada
"

?"

infant.
about the IMoors with
ma-

He

always talks
when

of Granada

he is mad

joon
before

or

in interrupted, aguardiente," I have ing croak-

of religion the points are dreadfully wrong, wrong, but are the Papists less so ? And one of their practices ably immeasursets them Moors below any down the Moors in the eyes of

In many

whom bad French, the old man and in the same described, voice which I had
"

unprejudicedperson:

they bow

heard

chanting
it may
thing some-

in the morning. be true, and if he would

never

Nevertheless had
not

heard

to idols,Christian idols if you like,but idols still, things graven of wood, and stone, and brass,and from

of the kind from

have for thing, many he

his parents, he imagined such a

these
nor

which neither hear, can things, nor pect feel, speak, they ask and exto

is too

before, it is
down

by

no

stupid. As I said means : impossible

settled taken I there, who
was

obtain favours."

"

Vive T

la France, Vive
said the
accent.

la Guadeloupe
a

of the families of Granada here when

their town
the I of and
a

French

black, with " In France

good
in

and

by

the

but Christians,
to

greater part
was

Guadeloupethere is no they pay

as

and superstition,

went

Tunis.
the

When house

much

lodged in talkingof

Moor
was

understand the always of Voltaire, who, as I am told, things writings has proved that both the one and the which liis forefathers had done there. written with the sole intenother were sit for hours singtion He would moreover ing of deceiving mankind. I understood of which O, vive la romances France ! where will you find such an of be the Mother not one word, praised God, but which he said all related to enlightened country as France ; and will you find such a plentiful hundreds where of his family; there were in Tunis, therefore why that name country as France ? Only one in the this drunken should not this Hammin, world, and that is Guadeloupe. Is it called himself
and Zegi'i, Granada the

as to the Koran ; I am read, in order that I may

regard to the Bible to now learning

water-carrier, be
also? lie is

Moor

of Granada
to

not
ever

so, Monsieur
at

Pascual Ah

Were

you paus

ugly enough

be

peror em-

IMarseilles ?

quelboa

of all the Moors. O, the accursed canaille ! 1 have lived amongst them for my sins these eightyears, at Oran and

les les les perdreaux, les perdrix, pour pour les consider here. alouettes, hecasses, Monsieur, do you not pour pour les be^ like I cassines, It to be a hard case for an old man ei^n, pour touL"
est

celui-la pour les vivres, pour its poulets, pet pour lesponlardes, pour

THE
about
ten

BIBLE
a

IN

SPAIN.
the rais
or

!CHAP.

LVII

years

of age, dressed in

guidedby the hand an old whom I at once as one recognised man, of of the Algerines, the good Moslems had spoken in whom the old Mahasni in the morning whilst of praise terms
gelaba;
he
"we

placehe was and frigate,

of captain

the poor Sardi was many fell into his hands nian vessel which After that affair he fled to Tangier, and it is said that he broughtwith him a he had

great part of the bootywhich

in fonner times. Many other the street of the Siarrin. amassed and of hither also, short He was or stature to Tecame dirty Algerines very in his dress ; the lower part of his face tuan, but he is the strangestguest of with covered them all. He keepsoccasionally a was stubblywhite very ascended

beard ; before his eyes he

wore

large extraordinary company

dently and eviJews. is rather
over

for

Moor

pair of

from spectacles,

which

he

intimate
no

received but littlebenefit, as he

the required assistance of the guideat The a little two advanced every step. and there into the wustuddur, ped, stopway beheld Pascual Fava no sooner

Well,

that's should

business

mine; only
If the Moors it were all

let him

look
once

the of to himself.
with Moors and poor
to

suspecthim,
Oh
my

over

with him. Moors !

Jew s, Jews

and

air he that broughtme sins, assuming a jovial my poor sins, his live amongst them ! started nimbly up, and leaning on for he had a bent leg, stick, limpedto a Ave Maris stella, which took of he a bottle Dei Mater alma, out cupboard, Atque semper virgo, of wine, singing and pouredout a glass Felix coeli porta !'"" used by in the broken kind of Spanish He was in this manner of the coast : the Moors proceeding

them, than

"

"

Ar^elino,
Moro fino, No beber vino, Ni comer tocino."

(Al;jerine,
Moor so No drink No taste

when
"

was

startled

by

the sound

of

keen, wine,

musket. That
"

is the retreat,"said Pascual

swine.)

Fa-^^a,
soc

He

then

handed
drank

the

Mooi'jwho

to the old it off, and then, led

wine

It is fired every night in the and it is the sigat half-past eight, nal for suspendingall business, and I
am
now

by the boy, made sayinga word.

"

for the door without

shutting up,
the

going to

close

Hade

"

ful), miishe halal," is not law(that said I to him vv^ith a loud voice. Cul shee halal" (everything is lawful), said the old Moor, turninghis from which my voice

I shall not admit them tillI laiow their voice. of the poor Since the murder Genoese last year, we have all been cautious. particularly had passedFriday, the sacred day of the Moslems, and the firstwhich I had spent in Tangier, I observed that the Moors if the as in it. hour

and dooi-s,

whosoever

knocks.

and spectacled sightless eyes him,

in the direction Thus

reached
God has

"Of

which everything for the

it is lawful given, God to partake."

"

children of said I to
and
"

followed

their

tions occupa-

day had nothing lar particu-

Who

is that old

man

?"

Pascual Fava, after the blind

leader of the blind had is he ! " said Pascual He time of is
a

the

departed, Who
;
"

Between twelve and one, the of prayer in the mosque, the gates of the town were closed,and no one

who and there

is he !

permittedeither
There is
a
on

to

enter

or

go

out

merchant

now,

keeps
was

tradition current
this

amongst
this hour,

?hop

in the when
no

but Siarrin,

them, that

day,and

at

sailed out bloodier pirate blind wretch has That old Algier. throats than he has hairs in cut more bis beard. Before the French took the

their eternal

enemies, the Nazarenes,

will arrive to take country ; on which

themselves

of their possession account theyhold a prepared against surprisal.

S\^

A"

THE

END

MR.

MURRAY'S

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

ORATIUS.

HORATIUS.

^ New

Edition

An

Original

LIFE

lEAUTIFULLY

REV.H.H.

MILMAN.

ustrated by

more

than
on

300 Woodcuts

of

Coins, Gems, Bas-Reliefs, Statues, Views, "c., taken

Jun. The Ornaments
crown

chieflyfrom
Jones

the

Antique

and drawn

Wood

by

George

Scharf,
Que

and 42s.

Borders

by

Owen

.Architect.

Volume,

8vo.

Grato Pyrrha sub antro,

Cui flavam

religascomam

Dirum

Annibalem.

Cavft testudine

flevit amorem.

arch, 1849.

MR.

MURRAY'S

A
THE
FIELD

TOUR
BOOKS OF

IN
A

SUTHERLAND
SPORTSMAN AND

NATURALIST.

BY
Author of
"

CHAKLES

ST, JOHN, ESQ,

Natural History of the Highlands."
2 Vols,

Wild Sports and Woodcuts.

post 8vo.

18s.

HISTORICAL
BY
Joan
Mary
otf

ESSAYS.
MAHON.
Last
Days Pitt
of and

LORD

Arc.
of

Fredkrick
Duke
of

the

Gkeat.

Qukbn
of

Scots.

AVm.

Marquis

Montrose.
Post 3vo.

French
fis. and

Rutland. Revolution, "c.,"c.

Forming a

Volume

of Murray's Homo

Colonial Library.

LIST

OF

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

DALMATIl
A

AND
"ft-ITH

MONTENEGRO:
IN

JOURNEY

TO

MOSTAR

HERZEGOVINA.

BY
With
50

SIR J. G. WILKINSON.
2 Vols. 8vo. 42*.

and Woodcuts. Maps, Plates,

The

Vladika

or

Bishop of Monteuegro.

THE
IN

DOCTEINE
ITS RELATION
TO

OF
MANKIND

THE
AND

INCAENATION,
TO
THE

CHURCH.

BY

ARCHDEACON
Second Edition.

WILBERFORCE.
8to.
12s.

MR.

MURRAY'S

HISTORY
WITH
AN

OF
OF THE

POTTERY
MANUFACIURE

AND
FROM
THE

PORCELAIN;
EARLIEST PERIOD.

ACCOUNT

BY

JOSEPH

MAMYAT,

ESQ.
8vo.

Illustrated with Coloured Specimens and 120 "Woodcuts.

[In the Press.

EYELTN; OE, THE

SKETCHES OF
BY

PEOGEESS
EARLY YEARS
"BERTHA'S

OF

CHAEACTEE.
OF AN HEIRESS.

THE

THE

AUTHOR

OF

JOURNAL."

2 Vols. 12ino.

Ready. [Nearly

DEMOCRACY
(JANUARY

IN

FRANCE,
8vo.

1849.)

BY

M.

GUIZOT.

FifthEdition.

3s. 6^.

LIST

OP

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

THE
THE

CITIES AND
EXTANT LOCAL

CEMETEEIES
OK,

OF
ETRUSCAN

ETRURIA;
ART.

MONUMENTS

OF

BY
With
120

GEORGE

DENNIS, ESQ.
2 vols. 8vo.

Maps, Hates, and Woodcuts,

42j.

EANKE'S
AND MEMOIKS
OF

HISTORY
THE HOUSE
TRANSLATED

OF
OP

PRUSSIA,
BRANDENBUEG.

BY

SIR

ALEXANDER

AND
SVols.Svo.

LADY
36*.

DUFF

GORDON.

MR.

MURRAY'S

Ascent

to the

Monastery

of Meteora.

VISITS TO
BY

MONASTERIES
THE
HON. ROBERT
With Woodcuts.

IN

THE

LEVANT.

CDKZON, JUN,
Post

8vo.

10

MR

MURRAY'S

Combat

of

Dyaks.

SIR

JAMES

BKOOKE'S

LATEST

JOURNilS
TOGETHER
WITH THE

OF

EYENTS
OF

Bf BORNEO.
IRIS.

OPERATIONS

H.M.S.

BY
With

CAPTAIN

MUNDY, K.N.
Plates. 2 Vols. 8vo. 32s.

Portrait of Sir James

Brooke,and many

PHYSICAL
BY
Author of the
"

GEOGRAPHY.
SOMERYILLE,
of the

MARY

Mechanism

of the

Heavens," " Connexion

Portrait.
2 Vols.

Stc. PhysicalSciences,"

Second

Edition.

Fcap. 8vo.

LIST

OF

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

11

LORD

HERVEY'S
COURT

MEMOIRS
OF

OF

THE

GEOEGE
EDITED

THE
BY

SECOND
THE

AND
HON.

OF
JOHN

QUEEN
WILSON
36*.

CAEOLINE.
CROKER.

EIGHT
Portrait.

2 Vols. 8vo.

NOTES

TO

THE

[ISTORY

OF

EUROPE
BY

DURING
HALLA^I,
8vo. 10*. 6d.
various

THE
ESQ.

MIDDLE

AGES.

HENRY

Printed to

with correspond

Editions of that Work.

ISITS TO

SPOTS

OF

INTEREST
AND

IN

THE

VICINITY

OF

WINDSOR
BY EDWARD
With

ETON.
"

JESSE, ESQ., Author of

numerous

CountryScenes."
12*.

Woodcuts.

Post 8vo.

Milton's

House

St. Giles. Chalfont,

12

MR.

MURRAY'S

Possession

Victoria Island,

Land.

YOYAGE
BY

OF

DISCOYEEY
SIR JAMES
Maps,
and

TO

THE

SOUTH

POLE,

CAPTAIN
With

CLARK
2 Vols. 8vo.

ROSS, R.N.
36#.

Plates.

LIYES
FROM

OF THE
THE

LOED
TIMES

CHANCELLORS
TO THE DEATH OF LORD

OF ENGLAND.
ELDON
IN

EARLIEST

1838.

BY

JOHN
New

LORD

CAMPBELL.
1025.

Edition.

7 Vols. 8vo.

LETTERS
EDITED

FROM
BY A

SIERRA
LADY.

LEONE.
NORTON.
[In Man

BY

THE

HOIf.
Post 8vo.

MRS.
and

Forming

Volume

of Murray'' s Home

Colonial Library.

LIST

OF

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

13

'Division of

Property."

DOG-BREAKOG;
THE MOST

EXPEDITIOUS,

CERTAIN,

AND

EASY

METHOD.

BY

LIEUT.-COLONEL HUTCHINSON,
With

20th

Regt.

Woodcuts, Fcap. 8vo.

6*.

MEMOIRS

OF
BY

Sm
HIS

T. FOWELL

BUXTON,
BUXTON,
16*.

BART.

SON, CHARLES
Second

ESQ.

8vo. Portrait, Edition,

OUTLINES
POPULAR MANUAL
FOR

OF

ENGLISH
STUDENTS
AND

LITERATURE.
THE

GENERAL

READER.

BY
Professor of

THOMAS

B.

SHAW,

B.A.,

EnglishLiterature in the ImperialAlexander Lyceum of St. Petersburgh.

Post 8vo. 12s,

15

ilR. MUEEAY'S

LIST

OP

NEW

PUBLICATIONS.

A
FROM THE ORIGIN

HISTOEY
OF THE

OF
TO

THE
THE

SIKHS.
BATTLES OF THE

NATION

SUTLEJ.

BY

CAPT.

JOSEPH
Map.

D. CUNNINGHAM.
8vo.

ILiMar

THE
A

VOEKS
WITH

OF
AN OF

ALEXANDEE
LIFE,
TO AND POPE

POPE.
NEARLY
ONE ETC.

NEW

EDITION,

NOTES,

ORIGINAL

HUNDRED

UNPUBLISHED

LETTERS

LORD

OXFORD,

BY

THE

EIGHT
In

HON.

JOHN

WILSON
Fcap. Svo.

CROKER.
[In the
Pre

Monthly Tolumes.

Uniform tcith

Smith's

of Dictio7iary

(h-eek and

Bo7nan

Atitiquiti

SCHOOL
BY

CLASSICAL
WILLIAM
same

DICTIONARY.
LL.D.
are

SMITH,
as subjects

will comprisethe This Dictionary its of Lempriere, avoiding Dictionary

concise form

contained in the well-know

its deficiencies, and exhibiting in errors, supplying that has bee the results of the labours of scholars. It will thus supply a want

longfelt by students

and persons

in engaged
One

tuition.

Volume, Svo.

[/" the Fret.

THE

SKETCH
WITH
A

BOOK
NEW Woodcuts.

OF

GEOFFEET
BY

CEATON.
-^ ^

INTRODUCTION

THE 18".

AUTHOR.

Ci-own Svo.

Bradbury

Evans,]

Wlntefriars [Primers,