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General Information GeneralSchöneberg

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Contents Contents

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General Information GeneralSchöneberg
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Berlin Tube Map

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General Information GeneralSchöneberg
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History
Berlin from 1237-1900
Berlin is a name which conjures many
images: a city at the centre of war, a
conflicted and divided city. A city, if
you will, on the extremes.
Having been the axis of so much of
the world’s recent history, it might
be easy to assume that this was all
that Berlin had to offer in terms of
historical interest. But this is not so.
It has been said of Berlin that it is the
centre of Germany just as Germany
is the centre of Europe.
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In tracing back a few hundred years,
it is possible to see how this came
to be. Geographically speaking,
Berlin came into existence as an
insignificant trade town situated
in between the two older towns of
Spandau and Cölln. This central
position worked to Berlin’s favour as
it continued to grow and enveloped
both other towns within its own
boundaries.
Though Berlin can only date its own
foundation from the first extant
mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin
History
that, by the mid-fourteenth century, Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,
had become the most important Friedrich the Great, transformed
trading town in Brandenburg, with Prussia - with Berlin as its capital -
its own City Council and Stadtbuch. into an enlightened, politically and
economically strong and religiously
By the time of the Reformation,
tolerant state.
Berlin had become an important
German town in its own right,
particularly special to many being
one of the first cities in Europe to
embrace Lutheranism. Because of
this, many French Huguenots fled
to Berlin bringing with them their
intellectual and industrial talents.
Even today, though the name
“Huguenot” has become largely
insignificant in modern-day
Europe, this relationship between
French Protestants and Berlin
is still celebrated in Mitte’s
Gendarmenmarkt.
Here the Französicher Dom and
the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each
other in design, are monuments to
the great respect these two groups
had for each other. Despite the years Even defeats in the Thirty Years War
between Napoleon’s invasion of failed to completely destroy Prussia’s
Brandenburg and the Cold War, when supremacy. This in time transformed
Franco-German relations were at a the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of
very low ebb, it is nice to see these the greatest in Europe, related by
two rivals still facing each other in marriage to most of the great houses
friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt. on the continent.
Not only a trend-setter in religion, This strength, nobility and stature
Berlin became a leader in the were, along with the talents of
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History
Otto von Bismarck, one of the main
reasons why Berlin and its monarchy
became the head of the newly unified
Germany.
Despite the later failures of this
system in the early years of the
20th century, this age of a strong
and enlightened German Empire,
led from Berlin, remained in the
European psyche for many years.
Jewish History of Berlin
The history of the Jewish community
is plagued by episodic persecution,
Jews often being used as a scapegoat
for economic and social woes.
By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were
barred from many professions and
effectively forbidden to become
members of the artisan guilds.
Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries
Jews were expelled from Berlin and
let back in time and again, accused
of acts such as the rampant plague
in Berlin and Brandenburg, which
had been sweeping across Europe;
and host desecration; which meant
that Berlin had virtually no Jewish
community for a century.
Between expulsions and being
banned from most other trades, the
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Jewish people of Berlin successfully
engaged in money lending and
petty trade. They were confined
to living in a ghetto in the Grosser
Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on
Judenstrasse (Jew Street).
Following the devastation of the
Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt
to achieve an economic upswing by
increasing population, the Great
Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50
prosperous Jewish families that were
expelled from Vienna to settle in the
Brandenburg region in 1671. They
were permitted to stay under the
condition that they pay an annual
protection fee, engage in only
certain businesses and worship only
in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish
community of Berlin was officially
founded.
Despite suffering restrictions on
religion, residence and family size
as well as extra taxes, the Jewish
population of Berlin grew and by
1700 the city’s Jewish slums had
approximately 1,000 residents. In
1714 the first synagogue of Berlin was
dedicated. As excellent merchants
and bankers, by halfway through the
18th century the Jewish community
totaled close to 2,000 and they had
become among the richest people in
Berlin.
Philosopher and scholar Moses
Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in
1743, and urged Jews to integrate
into secular society and by 1778 these
enlightened ideas found expression
in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish
Free School) that combined religious
learning with general education.
Though the 1812 Emancipation
Edict that declared Jewish people
equal citizens was in the most
part quickly retracted, there was
a general loosening on Prussia’s
restrictions and growing equality for
its Jewish population. By 1869 the
new North German Confederation
passed a law on the equal rights of
religious confession
and declared the
emancipation of
Jewish people
within its territory
and by 1871 German
Jews had equal
rights. Within a
few years members
of the Jewish
community rose to
prominence in government, many
as close advisors to the Kaiser. By
the turn of the century, there were
more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin,
comprising more than 5% of the total
population.
History
In the Weimer years (1919-1933)
Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin
enjoyed unprecedented levels of
freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt
taking the stage, Jewish composers
including Arnold Schoenberg’s works
being performed, Max Liebermann
and Lesser Ury creating beautiful
paintings and musicians such as the
Comedian Harmonists at the height
of popularity. The Jewish population
continued to grow and by 1933
160,000 Jews called Berlin home.
At the same time anti-Semitism was
on the rise and the years leading up
to the ascendance of Nazi power saw
increasing attacks on members of the
Jewish community. State-
backed persecution
ensued after the
Nazis took power in
1933, and with the
1935 Nüremberger
Gesetze (Nuremberg
Laws) the Jewish
citizens of Germany
were effectively
deprived of social and
economic rights via the introduction
of apartheid-like classifications of
“racial purity”.
Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish
community life increased as Jewish
citizens were forced to send their
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History
children to segregated schools and
forbidden from interacting with
non-Jews. Those who could see the
writing on the wall and had money
escaped while they could, though
even such escape was a limited
opportunity, as other European
countries, the US and Palestine all
restricted Jewish immigration.
In retaliation for the assassination
of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath,
who was killed by a 17-year-old
Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the
Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph
Goebbels called for a nationwide
pogrom on November 9th 1938.
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This night is known as
Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken
Glass, a nationwide attack on the
Jewish people that resulted in the
death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many
were beaten on the streets while
passers-by looked on; the destruction
of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of
hundreds of shops and businesses.
German Jewish citizens were then
required to pay one million marks to
repair the damages.
By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish
citizens to wear a yellow star at all
times, and the first mass deportations
from Berlin marked the beginning of
the systematic large-scale genocide
of German Jews. Before the end of
the war over 55,000 Jewish residents
of Berlin were deported.
In January 1941 the Wannsee
Conference resolved and planned the
so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage
(Final Solution to the Jewish
Question) – the removal of all Jews
to the East and, implicitly, their
extermination. The Final Solution
began to be put into effect, and
life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin
became increasingly unbearable.
All Jewish schools and institutions
were closed down, the Jewish
community was disbanded, Jewish
citizens were banned from public
transport, their food rations
were reduced and thousands
were deported, mostly to the
Theresienstadt and Auschwitz
concentration camps.
By the end of the war,
Hitler’s mass genocide
had reduced Berlin’s
Jewish population by
around 96 per cent to
about 6,500. Survivors
managed to escape
death often through
being hidden by gentile
families at great
personal risk or by
evading final round-ups
through legal conditions
such as irreplaceable
skills vital to the war
effort or being married to a non-Jew.
Only about 2,000 returned from the
concentration camps.
In 1946 the Jewish community was
officially recognized again as a
public body, and a large number of
Eastern European Jews immigrated
to Berlin. As a result of intense
anti-Semitic persecution in East
Germany, many members of the
Jewish community fled to the west.
As a result, the Jewish community of
East Berlin was almost non-existent,
History
and even by 1988 the East German
Jewish community had less than 200
members.
In West Berlin, the German Jewish
community had about 6,000
members, constituting
the largest Jewish
community in Germany.
After the two Berlin
Jewish communities
were reunited with the
fall of the Berlin Wall,
the federal government
approved refugee status
for Jews from the former
Soviet Union and since
then over 50,000 Jewish
people have immigrated
to Germany, with Berlin
more than doubling its
congregation members
to over 12,000.
Since reunification several steps
have been taken to preserve Jewish
history including the opening of the
Jewish Museum and the decision by
the German Bundestag to erect the
Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden
Europas (Memorial for the Murdered
Jews of Europe) according to the
design by Peter Eisenman.
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History History

The puzzle of the Berlin Wall
An anti-capitalistic protective barrier
with concrete pads, barbwire and
watchtowers held the East German
population from running away.
“A wall is a hell of a lot better than
war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon
hearing about the construction of
the Berlin Wall.
Nevertheless,
for about
28 years the
160km long
wall encased a
whole nation.
Between 1949
and 1961,
2.5million
p e o p l e
escaped from
the German
Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying
to get over the wall, or hiding in
traffic that was allowed to go through
the barriers. The accurate number of
people who were shot down when
they tried to escape varies according
to different sources. Many memorials
give an account of the GDR fugitives’
tragic destiny: bleeding to death
after being shot by border patrol
soldiers. Escape from the German
republic was classified as treason,
punishable by death. There was the historic port in Cape Town, South 21 different countries; previously it
nothing the Western Berlin police Africa; the entrance of the Basilica was only allowed for West Germans.
could do to stop this. Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal; The Gallery is not just for the artistic
the Vatican garden; the 6km long exploration of the Wall’s demise, but
A sad chapter in German history was
green stream Cheonggyecheon in for the memory of the dead refugees.
put to an end when the Wall was
South Korean city of Seoul; the EU During the Wall’s 20th anniversary
torn down in 1989, and as a result
Parliament in Belgium; as well as former artists were brought to the
the unification of Germany ensued.
places in Strasbourg, Riga, London, capital city to remove the traces
Of over 100 watchtowers three
Canberra and Montréal. The biggest of the last 18 years. The graffiti
are kept. Even some of the former
Wall piece outside of Germany is has suffered extensive damage
border crossings
located in “Freedom Park” near due to visitors and attacks from
are still clearly
Arlington, Virginia. Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).
recognizable, with
A €2.5 million renovation is underway
the most well- The well-known East Side Gallery was
and should be ready by Autumn
known transition painted in 1990 by 118 artists from
at Checkpoint
Charlie.
The wall was
broken up and
the remaining
sections becoming
memorials and
museums for the
fallen. The Todesstreifen (death
zone) can still be seen in many
places. Some have been left as
large areas of brown, uncultivated
land, while other parts have been
turned into parks. The pieces of
wall that were torn down and
demolished were sent to museums
and universities across the world,
and made into souvenirs for tourists.
Wall sections decorate, for example,

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History
2009. The maintenance of the wall
plays a major role, since it is both
an important monument to the
reunification, as well as a Certificate
of European and world culture.
Anyone can acquire a valuable
memory in the form of a piece of the
Wall. Pieces come in different sizes,
which are also available online, up
to $150. However, if you want to see
more than just a 2x2cm piece, the
opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is
huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser
Platz next to the Brandenburger
Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer
Strasse (National Monument, U
Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße
with the longest preserved part of
the wall about 1.3km.
Those interested in the history of
the GDR and the fall of the Wall
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should definitely go to the following
places. They will clear all important
questions and satisfy your thirst for
knowledge.
City Museum of Berlin
www.stadtmuseum.de
Am Köllnischen Park 5
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke
Tel: +49 3 024 002 159
Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm
Wed 12-8pm
Price: €4
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
www.mauermuseum.de
U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße
Tel: +49 302 537 250
Mo- Su 9am- 8pm
Price: €7.50-12.50
Chapel of Reconciliation
www.kapelle-versoehnung.de
Bernauerstr. 4
Tel: +49 304 636 034
Service to remember the victims
(Sunday 10am)
Tue-Sun 10am-5pm
Topographie of Terror
www.topographie.de
Niederkirchnerstr. 8
Tel: +49 3 025 450 950
Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am-
History
BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies
Looking back on Berlin’s
history begs the question
of how the bear became
its symbol. Unfortunately
it is not clear what was
here first; Berlin or the
bear. It wasn’t until 1280
when the bear became the
heraldic animal of Berlin.
Today its image is still
used for advertisements
on different logos,
certifications,
newspapers, publications,
agencies, stamps and
even more in and around
Berlin. The bear even
became a permanent part
of the city’s flag in 1908.
Berlin bear art is scattered
all over the city in the
form of sculptures, plastic
models and architecture,
most of which are hidden
amongst the less tourist-
prone areas. Some have
also just been rebuilt
after they got eliminated
or damaged during the
Nazi regime. Today,
especially in Prenzlauer
Berg, there are many furry
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History
inhabitants decorating the
streets. In the middle of
the public Volkspark lives
the most colorful bear
in Berlin. He was born in
1970 and fell pray to some
graffiti artists in the last
couple of years. However
they decided to keep him
blue and call him Käpt’n
Blaubär (Captain Blue
bear) which is now a great
attraction for children
who know this bear from
TV.
At the Moabiter Bridge
(Bartningallee) there
are four different bears
designed by four sculptors
each at a different
location. The bridge was
built between 1893 and
1894 and was rebuilt due
to war damage between
1980 and 1981. The stone
bears are positioned on
all fours and appear to
be giant when standing
in front of them, their
huge paws and enormous
claws making them
appear even larger. Their
bodies look big and round,
nevertheless they do not
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appear as feared creatures but rather
as cute clumsy bears, which delight
the pedestrians who pass over the
bridge. Around this area small cafes
and a cozy restaurant at the Spree
River invite everybody to sit down
and relax.
One of the most important bear art
pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished
fountain, which was rebuilt after
being destroyed during World War
II. Sutowski made his artwork out
of red Lava Tuff stone which gives
it an interesting pattern. This
fountain is decorated with one bear
in the center and eight smaller bears
around, almost as if the mother bear
is watching her children frolic.
History
Some of the bear art pieces are also
used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz
had the idea to paint bear sculptures,
sell them at auctions and give the
money to UNICEF and other children
aid organizations. In this way they
could donate more than two million
dollars in the last eight years. Jackie
Chan even brought the idea of the
United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.
Everybody can support this project,
take part in the competition and
maybe get the chance to give a
buddy bear a new fur colour.
If you want to get a shot of this
famous Berlin symbol- just keep your
eyes open and wherever you may go
you will always find a bear.
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Survival Guide Survival Guide

B erlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just

to make your visit that much more enjoyable,
we’ve gathered some useful information to help
you get by in the city.
Culture and etiquette
Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting
attitude to most things, although there is an
underlying sense of respect for rules and authority.
•
•
Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.
There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and
bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it
to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to
the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass
needs to be returned to get your deposit back.
• It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit
cards.

• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon - Transport

offenders will more frequently be reprimanded
The city has a well integrated and
by onlookers than the police.
efficient public transport network.
• Although a smoking ban was recently At first glance it may appear quite
introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars. complex, but the interconnecting
It is best to ask before you light up. suburban (S-Bahn) and underground
(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and
• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,
bus services ensure you won’t be left
although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.
stranded.
Useful tips The U-Bahn service closes between
• For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during
double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at
Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight
Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz. where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.
• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm. Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,
You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate. undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand
out fines of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!
• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,
with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them
available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the before your journey.
nightlife lists are easy to decipher.
Cycling in Berlin
• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for
If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffic
separate bins for plastic and glass.
and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why

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Survival Guide
don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s flatter
than London and less chaotic than
Amsterdam. With over 800kms of flat
land, parks, gardens and bike routes,
look no further than Berlin’s cycling
network.
Many hostels will recommend or rent
out bikes from a few hours to a few
19 Schöneberg
General Information
days, but if you are spending a few
weeks or longer in Berlin it is well-
worth investing your money in a bike.
The average price to rent is €15 per
day, and most places will hold onto
a cash deposit or your passport until
you bring the bike back.
The best place to look for second-
hand bikes are flea-markets,
particularly Mauer Park,
where you can pick up a
bike for as little as €40.
Important Information
If you are hardcore and
bring or buy your own bike,
it’s best to remember the
following, whether biking or
walking:
• Remember that traffic is
on the right-hand side of
the road. Bike paths, even
on the footpath, also follow
this rule.
• Buy a pump and tyre repair
kit, or at least know a few
locations of Bike Doctors,
just in case. There is a lot of
broken glass on the streets
in Berlin.
• Get a good lock. The flea
Survival Guide
markets are quite cheap. • Keep a good lookout when riding
alongside pedestrians or cars. Both
• Look before walking across a bike
can be dangerous and you’re in the
path. Sometimes cyclists look for
worst position to go flying.
someone to get angry with and will
verbally lash out. • Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is
good fun, keeps you fit and gets you
• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take
around with a lot less stress.
your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside
of rush hour). Bikes are free when
you have a monthly ticket.
• Get off your bike and walk in busy
areas, or ride on the road.
Fat Tire Bike Tours
www.FatTireBikeToursBerlin.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:
Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr
16 – Sep 30).
The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin and getting active is
to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less
time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.
You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and
past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy
snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each
place.
There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the
Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent
out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide
Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.
GeneralSchöneberg
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Survival Guide Survival Guide

Airports done in a number of ways: online; Useful words/phrases

telephone; or the olde traditional
Tegel Airport
way…visit the hostel and book a
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 bed there and then. Booking online
however is quick, simple and often
English German
Tegel is 8km from the city centre, Yes, No Ja, Nein
cheaper. You could book via the
which is easy and cheap to reach
hostel’s website, but we recommend Please Bitte
by bus. The number 109 stops at
using hostel search engines such You’re welcome Bitte
Zoologischer Station, or you can
as HostelWorld.com. It is one of
catch the U-Bahn. Thank you Danke
the easiest search engines to use,
Schönefeld even for technophobes. Search by Good Morning Guten Morgen
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 area, price or browse the customer Good Day Guten Tag Entrance Eingang
ratings to find the best hostel for
South of the city centre, Bus 171 Good Evening Guten Abend Exit Ausgang
you. Keep an eye out for discounts
can take you from the airport to when booking online. Goodbye Tschüss I would like... Ich möchte...
Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway (informal) Do you speak Sprechen Sie
station. From there you can catch How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash
on arrival but each is different so Goodbye Auf English? Englisch?
the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains (formal) Wiedersehen
keep that in mind when browsing. 1 eins
into the city, 20kms away.
A small deposit is required when How are you? Wie geht es 2 zwei
Accommodation Information booking over the internet to ensure (formal) Ihnen?
3 drei
your bed is held, and is especially How are you? Wie geht’s?
Berlin has a number of hostels that 4 vier
worth doing during busy holiday (informal)
provide all the necessary facilities:
periods (May to September). 5 fünf
bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI; Today Heute
laundry facilities; plus added bonuses Tomorrow Morgen 6 sechs
like leisure and entertainment 7 sieben
Yesterday Gestern
facilities – bar; games room; TV room; 8 acht
and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes Excuse me Entschuldigung
these are free or you may have to Where is...? Wo ist...? 9 neun
pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to How, When, Wie, Wann, 10 zehn
go through these offers and decide Why? Warum? 20 zwanzig
what is important to you and what
Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen 50 fünfzig
you can do without.
Men’s toilets Herren/Männer 100 ein hundert
Booking a bed is easy and can be

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Day Trips
Day trips out of Berlin
When you just need some time out
from the hustle and bustle of crazy
city life, hop on a train and see
what the end of the line holds. From
castles to beaches and even film
studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are
just as fun as the inner city.
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Day Trips
Potsdam
S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof
for regional trains.
Only twenty minutes by train,
Potsdam has just as much history as
Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci
and the film park Babelsberg, there
are many activities to fill your
time. Historically Potsdam has been
around since AD 993, although it was
bombed heavily during World War II.
Potsdam is a small town and the
main street is your average cafe
and shopping strip. A lot of buildings
are also being rebuilt. Wander a
little further and you will find the
original Brandenburger Tor, smaller
but still impressive. The royal palace
- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the
the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The 1745 and 1747, is flanked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700
important Potsdam Conference was side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and
held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.
all met to discuss how to deal with Friedrich’s summer palace stands
Head back to town and take in
Germany after World War II. above four layers of steps, gardens
the film park Babelsberg. This was
and greenhouses – these were
When you walk from town, take the where many films, including those of
built into the walls to protect the
back entrance into Park Sanssouci. the silent era and Nazi propaganda
hundreds of fig trees during winter.
Walk through Friedenskirche, Church were produced. It is still an active
Maybe they were a personal favourite
of Peace, where the view between and important part of European film
of Friedrich the Great?
the concrete pillars will make you production. Some of the more recent
feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace films produced there include The
out into a splash of colour with the built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;
lake, trees and flowers in full bloom. guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,
overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.
GeneralSchöneberg
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Day Trips
Freibad Müggelsee
Fürstenwalder Damm 838,
Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777.
S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61:
Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept
9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions.
Though not Berlin’s most central
swimming area, this is a perfectly
pleasant sunny day outing. With
volleyball and basketball courts,
snacks and drinks for sale, and a
restaurant close by, this inland beach
on the north shore of East Berlin’s
biggest lake boasts a large sun-
bathing and swimming area.
Although a sandy forefront, the
25 Schöneberg
General Information
water is natural and flat. It’s great
for throwing a ball around and
playing horse with your friends. As
the beach does get quite crowded,
especially on sunny weekends,
getting there early to claim a prime
sun-bathing spot is recommended.
From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes
about 45 minutes.
The Freikörperkultur (nudist)
section of the beach is separated
from the Freibad (open-air bathing
area) by 200m of forest. If you’re
interested in experiencing some of
Germany’s nudist culture get off
the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/
Müggelseedamm for the FKK section
of the beach. Tourists who are just
Day Trips
there to gawk will be treated with for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get
some hostility, so make sure you’re quite busy, so head there early to
ready to fully participate in this claim a spot.
aspect of German culture if you
If you can’t beat your sightseeing
choose to visit the nudist area.
addiction, nearby is the Allied
Krumme Lanke museum, good for a visual
understanding of the Berlin Airlift
S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open and American presence in the city
all day, every day; free. during much of the 20th century.
Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,
Allied Museum: www.
where the Nazis mapped out the
alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-
fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.
Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun
All in all an enjoyable day out worth
10am-6pm.
having if just to see another side to
Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex the multifaced city.
Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee
Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun
10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch
Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop
“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.
If you’re looking for a change from
the busy and hectic city centre, a
short trip to Schlachtensee Station is
a great way to spend a relaxing (and
free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk
from the station, Krumme Lanke
is surrounded by the trees of the
Grunewald Forest and can provide
the tranquillity and rest your feet so
much desire. It’s possible to swim,
row and walk around in the area, and
you can grab lunch from a cheap but
cheerful café next to the station.
Currywurst, bratwurst and more go
GeneralSchöneberg
Information 26
Day Trips Day Trips

S a c h s e n h a u s e n
Concentration Camp and
Memorial
www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen.
de. Memorial and Museum
Sachsenhausen. Straße der
Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn:
Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000.
Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free.
Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past
are all over the city, however a visit to
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp
near Oranienberg is particularly
thought-provoking and encompasses
the many horrors of recent German
history.
The camp was built in 1936 under
Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler
as a model for future concentration
camps. Between 1936 and 1945
more than 200,000 people were
interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially,
the majority of these prisoners
were political opponents of Hitler’s
government: communists, social
democrats and trade unionists. This
soon widened to include anyone
that the Nazis deemed as racially
or biologically inferior such as
homosexuals and Jews.
During this period, tens of thousands
died at the camp from starvation,
forced labour, mistreatment and
extermination. Soviet
and Polish forces
liberated the camp on
April 22, 1945 - sadly
however, 300 of the
remaining inmates died
from malnutrition and
illnesses before they had
the chance to leave. The
mass grave in which these
prisoners are interred is
a particularly distressing
part of the camp.
The horrors of
Sachsenhausen did not
cease after the fall of the
Nazis. From August 1945
the Soviet secret police
reopened the camp for
the detention of their
own political prisoners
and war criminals;
this included anyone
suspected of opposition.
By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners
of war, suspected former Nazis and
Soviet political dissenters, were
incarcerated there. After the fall of
the GDR the remains of some 10,000
prisoners were found in mass graves.
The extensive horrors which took
place at Sachsenhausen during the
Nazi and GDR years are memorialised
by the national monument that
towers over the grounds.
The barren landscape
and the original barracks,
prison and security fencing
are eerily suggestive of
the extensive suffering
which occurred. In
particular the grim
sights of the mortuary,
living quarters and
infirmary invite visitors to
contemplate experiences
of the prisoners. Invest
in the audio guide for €3
in order to fully grasp
the harrowing historical
importance of the site.
First-hand accounts
displayed in the museums
and played on the audio
guide serve to emphasise
the traumatic effect
Hitler’s fascist rule had on
millions of lives.
A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eye-
opening experience which reiterates
the cold reality of World War II and
the subsequent Soviet regime.

27 Schöneberg
General Information GeneralSchöneberg
Information 28
Mitte Information
Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s Platz is perhaps one of the busiest
most famous Boulevards, a 1.5km- places found in Berlin. Cluttered with
long stretch panning east from the shops, a central station and various
Brandenburg Gate up to Museum fountains, it is something to be seen
Island. Developed as a showpiece if only for the novelty. And of course,
since the 18th it is home to
century, where the communist
it was then commissioned TV
used as a horse- Tower - a great
riding route landmark to
to Tiergarten, locate yourself
the road has with when lost.
become a
Pretty much
gallery for
deserted during
some of Berlin’s
the GDR era,
greatest sights.
the Spandauer
Museum Island Vorstadt has been
is a must see, overtaken by
with some of squatters, artists
the worlds and anyone
finest art and sculpture. Whilst with a flair for renovation. Its focal
in the area, a quick diversion point lies in Hackeschen Markt and
to the governmental quarter of the bustling streets surrounding it,
Berlin is defiantly worthwhile. The crammed with busy (and expensive)
Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped restaurants and shops. The area to
bend of the Spree River, houses the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse
several buildings running in an east- and the touristy Oranienburger
west direction to symbolically tie the Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s
two halves of the city together. The pre-war Jewish district. At the end
Reichstag, situated in the middle of of Oranienburger Strasse lies the
this unison, is a favourite amongst graffiti-covered Tachles, an anarchic
visitors, as the glass dome gives 1990s artists’ squat still preserved as
spectacular views across the city. such today, providing a good starting
point for Berlin’s nightlife.
Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander

29 Mitte Mitte 30
Arts & Culture
Brandenburg Gate
Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den
Linden, Bus 100/200.
Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans
and built in 1791, the Brandenburg
Gate has become a focal point in
Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally,
it was recognised as a symbol of
German solidarity, as it looks out onto
the impressive Siegessäule, marking
Prussian military victories. With
many of Berlin’s main roads leading
towards it, the Gate is something
almost impossible to miss.
The site has witnessed many
important events in Berlin’s history,
including being a meeting place for
revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a
favoured rallying point for the Nazis’
31 Mitte
torch-lit marches; and with the wall
enclosing the Gate in the Eastern
sector in 1961, it soon became a
symbol of the city’s division. Nearby
observation posts became a hot spot
for visiting politicians, including
Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them
a rare glimpse at life on the other
side.
Sitting on top of the Gate is the
equally historic Quadriga, the horse-
drawn chariot that was once snatched
up by Napoleon and relocated to
France (only to be returned to its
original home a few years later). The
GDR also did its own fiddling with the
statue, including the removal of the
cross and it being turned around to
face the West during the cold-war
era.
Arts & Culture
Today, the Gate serves as a tourist a symbolic central point of Europe,
must-see, with families and with trains coming from Rome and
travellers posing for photos in front Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.
of the impressive structure.
Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines
Berlin Hauptbanhof going through this station and you
will get a great tour of the main sights
www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1. of Mitte, including the Reichstag,
Nicknamed the “glass cathedral” the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you
by locals, this central station offers don’t have a need to travel, simply
not only an easy route to almost a quick trip here to look around is
anywhere in Berlin and Europe, worthwhile as the architecture is
but also a master class in glass and remarkable.
steel architecture. The Gothic-style
construction was built primarily
for the 2006 football World Cup,
and hosts many shops, eateries and
meeting points one would expect in
such a large station.
Designed by two Hamburg-based
architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and
Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s
biggest train hub, boasting a capacity
of 300,000 travellers, running on
1,100 trains per day. Unlike other
stations in Berlin and across Europe,
its cleanliness and peacefulness are
dominant, with little to no graffiti or
rubbish in sight.
Since its initial drawing-board stages,
the station was always planned
to observe a north-south, east-
west axis, cutting through the long
circle line. This axis now serves as
Mitte 32
Arts & Culture
Neue Wache Teeming with important historical
(New Guard House) sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably
fascinating yet sometimes
Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter
exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New
den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm.
Guard House) is perfect for quiet
Entrance Free.
contemplation: a momentary repose
amidst a hectic day of sightseeing.
The mourning sculpture by Käthe
Kollwitz stands alone in the centre
of the room, as a powerful symbol of
the emotional torment that ensued
after the Second World War.
It was the first building designed by
the important German architect Karl
Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816-
1818). It notably emphasizes the
popular German Neo-Classical style
of architecture, which swept through
Germany in the 19th century. Until
the end of the monarchy in 1918,
the Neue Wache functioned as the
royal guard house. Since then, this
compact, yet simultaneously stately
building has served as a memorial for
victims of war.
The German architect Heinrich
Tessenow first made changes to
the building in 1930-31, creating a
“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the
Great War”. He inserted the oculus
in the centre of the ceiling, through
which light filters into the dark
chamber, creating an atmospheric
Neue
and almost eerie sensation – when
33 Mitte
the building isn’t packed with
tourists.
Bombing from the Second World War
left the building scarred, and as a
result, in need of serious repair. From
1960, the GDR restored the building,
renaming it “Memorial to the Victims
of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the
chamber, an eternal flame burned.
In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the
remains of an Unknown Soldier and
concentration camp prisoner. In
1993, after German reunification,
the hall was declared as the “Central
Memorial of the Federal Republic of
Germany”. Having been described as
a “monumentally void interior hall”,
the Neue Wache is nonetheless
worth a visit for its atmospheric and
emotional resonance.
Fernsehturm
w w w. b e r l i n e r f e r n s e h t u r m . d e .
Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn:
Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333.
Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am-
12am. Price: €4.50-9.50.
Towering above Berlin, the
Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as
a beacon for visitors and locals alike
to orientate themselves, since it can
be seen from all corners of the city.
The structure offers 360˚ views of
Berlin with a rotating café on the
Arts & Culture
Nikolaiviertel
(St Nicholas Quarter)
U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined
ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-
Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free
Wednesdays.
A short walk from bustling
Alexanderplatz one finds a quiet
square centred around the
Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.
Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel
appears to be one of the last
remainders of medieval Berlin, aside
from the Nikolaikirche, founded in
1240, most of the original buildings
in this area were either destroyed by
bombing or pulled down during the
1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist
of irony, many buildings were rebuilt
in 1987 by the GDR government
to look like the originals, using
photographs from the 1920s as
reference.
For historic interest, there is a series
of placards on various buildings
in the area giving information on
personalities who lived there or
events which took place. In terms of
museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,
the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-
Palais, together offering a fairly
comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s
history from its foundation to the
Mitte 34
Arts & Culture
nineteenth century.
This is a neighbourhood that plays
on its medieval heritage as much as
possible, from cafés proclaiming to
have been established in the 13th
century, to antiquarian booksellers
taking advantage of the archaic
atmosphere. However, there is
an obvious attempt to cash in on
this – you will find a lot of souvenir
shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and
the restaurants tend to be a little
overpriced. The square also backs
onto the river which offers more
restaurants and a nice spot to eat or
rest.
upper floor, completing one rotation
every 30 minutes.
The Fernsehturm is 368m high and
was completed in 1969. The tower
was built with the intention of
demonstrating how technologically
advanced the East was. This symbol
of progress became a source of
embarrassment for the German
government. When hit with direct
sunlight, the tower creates the
reflection of a cross, the same
symbol the government had tried so
hard to banish. The West Germans
called this “the Pope’s Revenge”
since all crosses had been removed
from East German churches. No
matter what the East Germans did,
35 Mitte
Arts & Culture
the cross remained. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.
Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,
Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city
and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each
block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The
memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to find their own path
through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through
the memorial for wheelchair users.
The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,
gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between
1933 and 1945. Photographs,
personal accounts and biographies
emphasise the harsh reality of
the harassment, expulsion, and
extermination of entire families.
Here you can find information
that documents the geographic
spread of genocide as well as being
presented with the number of
victims from each occupied country
further highlighting the extent of
these horrific events. There is also
a room where visitors can search
for victims’ names in a database
that contains more than three
million entries.
Although admission is free, audio
guides available for €3. If you visit
on a Sunday at 4pm you can take
the guided tour, in English, also at
a cost of €3.
Mitte 36
Arts & Culture
Hamburger Bahnhof
w w w. s m b . m u s e u m / s m b / h b f / .
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.
Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open:
Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3
concession.
An abstract collection of works,
from German artist and theorist
Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol,
are displayed beneath the roof of
this former railway station turned
contemporary art museum. Open
since 1996, the surreal collection
has been in the making since the
mid 1970’s, and highlights both the
limitless boundaries of abstract art
37 Mitte
and the strong association Beuys
had with some of the art world’s
most unconventional and reputable
artists.
A modest glimpse into the bizarre
and borderline ridiculous nature
of contemporary modern art itself,
the gallery undeniably reeks of
inspiration and creativity that either
inspires or repels the passing masses.
Although guaranteed to split the
opinions of visitors, the collection is
well worth a look if not for ‘what is’
displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed.
Most visitors pop in for a quick
glimpse of the numerous original
Arts & Culture
works on display from pop arts front
man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’
(1973). The real gems are found in
the quotes scattered around from the
charismatic and controversial Joseph
Beuys, the clashing placement of
life-like pieces opposing walls of
absurdity, and the general conceited
nature of many of the passing
visitors.
Neue Synagoge
(New Synagogue)
www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger
Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:
Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr. and damaged, this synagogue was
Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the
10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed district police chief of the time,
on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays. who forced the arsonists to leave
Cupola open to visitors April- claiming it was under protection as
September. Price: €1-5. a city landmark.
The New Synagogue of Berlin with Although services continued
its golden cupola rises high above afterwards until 1940, it was then
the center of the city. Though it has taken over and used as a storage
faced desecration and destruction, place for uniforms. Consequently in
it still remains a city landmark. Built 1943, the synagogue was bombed by
in 1866, the synagogue was once the the Allied Forces, severely damaging
center of Jewish worship housing it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall
over 3000 congregants. was torn down, only the front of the
The rise of the Nazis, though, building remaining.
hindered this community. During the However in 1988, the main dome
November 1938 pogroms, known as and the two corner towers were
Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where restored to look exactly as they
most Jewish sites were vandalized
Mitte 38
Arts & Culture
did before the destruction. It now
functions as a community center
and contains a permanent exhibit,
titled “Open ye the Gates”, which
features pictures and documents on
Jewish history, and more specifically
the synagogue’s history, as well as
showcasing artifacts found during
the restoration. The upper floor is
used for temporary exhibits as well
as ceremonies and lectures. The
synagogue is still used for services,
though only seating eighty members
as it is no longer the main synagogue
of the Jewish community.
39 Mitte
Reichstag
Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter
den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027.
Mon-Sun 8am-12am.
One of Berlin’s most striking
landmarks, the Reichstag, which
today houses the German parliament,
has undoubtedly played a pivotal role
in Berlin’s history and is definitely
worth a visit. The original imposing
neoclassical facade is contrasted
with a striking glass cupola supported
by a soaring mirrored column, which
offers stunning 360-degree views
Arts & Culture
across the city. offered on Tuesdays (outside of
parliamentary sessions), book in
The Reichstag was built in the late
advance.
19th century as a parliamentary
office, but in reality had little purpose
under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I.
In 1918 the Weimar Republic was
declared here from a window by
Philip Scheidemann and for the
next 15 years it controlled the first
democratic body in Germany. The
Reichstag fire in 1933 however gave
Hitler the perfect opportunity to
exercise an emergency degree, thus
effectively allowing him dictatorial
power over the country.
At the end of World War II the Buchstabenmuseum
Reichstag was symbolic of the
Allied victory, when Russian soldiers
(Museum of Letters)
positioned the Soviet flag on the w w w. b u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m . d e .
roof. The building was then left Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn:
mainly unoccupied until the fall Spittelmarkt. Tel: +49 1 774 201 587.
of the wall in 1990, when the View by appointment only.
government of a reunified Germany
If you are interested in letterforms,
finally decided to resurrect it as its
Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit.
new parliament. Following extensive
The museum is made up of two rooms
remodeling under plans from British
of large-scale type examples, mostly
architect Sir Norman Foster, it once
interesting signage from buildings.
again provides a cornerstone of
The space is small, but there is still
the Regierungsviertel (government
plenty to look at. They have a good
quarter) in Berlin.
variety of different type styles, from
Queues are expected, arrive very modern san serifs to black letter.
early or late in the day to avoid It is great to see attention brought
disappointment. Tours in English to an area of design which is often
Mitte 40
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Tacheles from all over the world that head lease has recently expired however,
there to work and live. and with the property owner’s bank
www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr. seeking administration rights, it is
54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr. The Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles
more uncertain than ever before as
Tel: +49 302 826 185. was built at the beginning of the 20th
to the future of this unique cultural
century as a large enclosed space for
Originally created as a non-profit site. Problems are also had with the
small businesses, before becoming
organisation, a vision that it still various bars, also on site, which all
a department store, and has since
retains to this day, Tacheles is originally had leases agreed with
served many purposes including
currently a key centre the Tacheles organisation. Currently
housing an SS office.
for art creation and only one bar continues to pay rent
The building was
exhibition near the and this causes a large amount of
damaged during the
centre of Berlin. tension.
Second World War
Not to be confused and only occasionally Despite the ongoing legal wrangling
with the separate used throughout the and the internal problems it has,
collection of bars, Cold War. The section Tacheles still has plans and high
commonly referred to that stands today is hopes for the future. These include
as Studio 54, that are just a small part of the creation of a foundation to
scattered behind and the original building. support non-profit cultural projects;
in the lower section the formation of a limited company
of the building, it In 1990, shortly
to outsource economic activities;
aims to focus on the after the collapse
the creation of a sculpture park
creative processes of the wall and two
on the roof and the expansion of
behind art and tries months before the
brand marketing to gain revenue for by profitable organisations and
to do away with the building was due to
cultural projects. establishments with a heavily-
organisational ties be demolished, an
that official museums artists’ initiative Tacheles is key to retaining the refined corporate image. Despite
hold. Housed in an old group called Tacheles, spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for this though, and the uncertain future
department store, the building has a which translates as art’s sake’ attitude brought about ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the
strong appeal with graffiti adorning plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied in its formation almost 20 years original aims of the organisation into
every visible space, and all sorts of the building. From then on the future ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable the future and create an artistic
characters roaming freely within. of the building, and the non-profit position to take, and arguably the legacy for generations to come.
As a result of its volatile history and organisation housed within, has been cornerstone that makes Tacheles
unique atmosphere it holds a strong far from certain. A lease was agreed such an attraction today, it is also
attraction for tourists, especially with the current owners, with a token an aspect that causes it to struggle
backpackers, as well as the artists rent of €0.50 paid each month. This in a modern world dominated

41 Mitte Mitte 42
Arts & Culture
Hackesche Höfe
Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn:
Hackesche Markt.
The ivy grows up the walls, framing
the windows and even trying to
creep into them. One courtyard has
a children’s play area, another has a
small fountain.
A newly refurbished complex
of buildings that run from
Oranienburgerstrasse and
Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse
is what makes up the 20th century
Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard)
complex.
Originally designed by Kurt Berendt
and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe
was damaged during the war, but
has since been restored to a place of
many means.
Although the buildings above are
offices and apartments, the nine
43 Mitte
interconnecting courtyards are filled
with bars, restaurants, boutiques and
even its own theatre. The courtyards
are beautiful and green, transporting
you away from the hustle and bustle
of the city.
Designer shops sport trendy clothes,
quirky ornaments and arty books.
The Ampelman store is hidden in one
of the courtyards where you can buy
merchandise with the little green
‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men.
In a city developing so fast, and new
concrete structures appearing daily,
it’s nice to have a hidden piece of
natural beauty in the city.
Food & Drink
Berlin’s Street Food
Berlin is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. In fact, it may be the best
part of Berlin for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers
can find stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst.
In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese take-
out may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and
fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.
Berlin loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry
powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the
sauce if it’s not to your taste.
Chips are found on many a street corner as well. Besides the usual dipping
sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a
little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry
to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location
to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger
Strasse across from Studio 54.
Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in the numerous Berlin
bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to
eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up
great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are
also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight in these establishments
are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no more than €2 for either
a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large
sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo.
While Berlin can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and
shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though
it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great
setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and
then burn them away.
Mitte 44
Food & Drink
Zur Letzten Instanz Theodor Tucher
www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse, www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/.
Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12pm-1am. Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den
Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon-
From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are
Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25
immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll
find yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented This gem could easily be shrugged
the Zur Letzten Instanz. His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they off, taken for another overpriced,
squirm to find a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been posh, tourist trap. However Theodor
designed to fit the Lilliputian emperor. Tucher, tucked away in the right
hand corner of Pariser
Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery
Platz under the
stands as Berlin’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621.
looming shadow of the
The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched
Brandenburger Tor,
charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet
offers so much more
reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booze ups.
than good, if a little
The food is typical Berlin style: Pickled pigs knuckles, bloodwurst, red cabbage pricey, fare.
and dumplings. But the flagship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful
The dining area is
roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almost impossible
quite large, both
to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore
inside and outside
the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone
and it is possible to
bisecting the impossibly tender flesh. A must have for meat lovers.
choose a seat with an
A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16. armrest, looking out
over the square for an
afternoon of drinking
and people watching.
The highlight of Theodor Tucher is
their Lunch-special trio, changing
daily to fit the mood of the chef.
The small plates range from chicken
and potatoes with mustard sauce to
a goat risotto. Included in the special
price of €13.90, a dessert also comes
at the end of the meal.
45 Mitte
Food & Drink
Those looking for something else
will find it hard to choose between
a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic,
fresh salads topped with spiced nuts
and fried pita bread, hearty meat-
and-potato stews or freshly dressed
baguettes, just to name a few. The
desserts will also surely tantalize
the diner with plates such as mousse
of rose petals with chocolate
medallions and
mango salad. There is
even something new
to discover with their
fresh selection of
unique drinks such as
strawberry punch and
red-currant spritzer,
crisp juices that come
in a jug, rather than a
single glass.
After a delicious
meal in this small
café, the diner can
head upstairs to the
literary house, a
loft with hardwood
floors, walls lined with old books and
old Victorian style furniture. This
upstairs haven is nearly soundproof,
blocking out the clamor of the other
diners below, leaving the guest in a
relaxed stupor for however long they
would like to visit after their meal.
Mitte 46
Nightlife Nightlife
mid-evening snacks. If you want a tracks of the Hackescher Markt
low-key alfresco evening, then look S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall
no further. is a hotspot for colourful characters
that will guarantee an interesting
Bang Bang and usually entertaining night.
www.bangbang-club.de. Neue The dress code varies from drag and
Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher burlesque to teenagers sporting a
Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price: casual attire of shorts and T-shirts.
€5-10. The music as well is diverse with
Her fangs tore into DJs spinning 60s
the body of a raw pop hits, indie
whole pineapple, tracks, and even
the juice causing the heavy riffs of
red lipstick to drip Black Sabbath and
down her chin Rage Against the
and pool onto the Machine. The bar
stage. Dressed in unfortunately is
burlesque, she not cheap, beer
reared her head runs €3 for .33L
back and spit the and cocktails are
tropical pulp into €6-7.
Strand Bar Mitte chairs by the river and watch the
world go by, or try your hand at salsa faces of a screaming Berlin’s nightlife
www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße on the dance floor. crowd pumping typically begins
1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. fists of devil horns. quite late, in fact
Mon-Sun 10am-late. Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is Bleeding eardrums pressed against most clubs are not in full swing until
a delightfully relaxed environment speakers as the tongue of this rock
Strand Bar Mitte is well known for well after midnight. So if you decide
which is frequented by all ages. goddess slipped pieces of the luscious
having started the urban beach bar to show up at the Bang Bang around
Watch out for the setting sun tinting fruit between audience members’
trend, for which Berlin is now famous. 11pm, make sure that you have
the façade of the Bodemuseum drooling lips.
This unique bar sits alongside the the energy to exercise your dance
across the river; it is particularly
River Spree, overlooking Museum If you’ve been searching for an skills and head-banging fury to the
beautiful. The fairy lights, urban
Island. Connected to the theatre intense nightlife scene of live music, early hours of the morning. Visit the
beach and deck-chairs all add to
next door, it is a fantastic place to sit tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale, website to see the event lineup and
the holiday atmosphere, while the
and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang choose the night that best suits your
pizzeria by the bar makes for great
prices. Lounge in the comfy deck Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous interests.

47 Mitte Mitte 48
Prenzlauer Berg Information

Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the

most picturesque areas in Berlin.
The area is dominated by wide open
boulevards and many of its buildings
are now occupied by übercool cafes,
shops and restaurants. As a result
the area has undergone a process
of gentrification since reunification
with many of the buildings renovated
after a period of neglect under the
East German government.
Prenzlauer Berg is known for having
a high proportion of young families;
attracting British and American
immigrants, who are drawn by the
area’s continuing reputation for
art; and for students. Only a few
old buildings give a reminder of the
area’s past. Created in the latter
half of the 19th century under the
plans of James Hobrecht, it was
initially intended to be a working-
class district. After a while the area
became known for punks and then,
having survived much of the post-war
rebuilding, it subsequently became
a hotspot for students, intellectuals
and artists under the GDR. A place
for alternative forms of culture was
established and as a consequence it
was a place where resistance could
be found.

49 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 50

Arts & Culture
Kulturbrauerei
w w w. k u l t u r b r a u e r e i - b e r l i n .
de Schonhauser Allee 36.
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe.
Tel: +49 3044 35 260.
Once a Schultheiss brewery, Berlin’s
Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate
venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts
and markets. The artistic nerve
centre of the creative city includes
an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and
Cigar bar and even a cooking school
for experimental culinary lovers. Why
not head to SODA Club for €4 Salsa
classes every Thursday and Sunday
before practicing your moves at the
evening Salsa party? Or for a unique
fortnightly shopping experience,
visit The White Market for locally
made clothing and accessories from
the likes of Barbara Viktor and
Friederike Porscha.
51 Prenzlauer Berg
Arts & Culture
Jüdischer Friedhof
Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn:
Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33.
Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm.
Along a nondescript road lies a
poignant place of remembrance.
The Jüdischer Friedhof is Berlin’s
oldest Jewish cemetery and, like
any cemetery, there is something
of a sombre air upon entering. This
is perhaps even more significant in
Berlin when considering the context
of history. Unlike other Jewish
cemeteries in Berlin it survived the
wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless
damage was still done in 1988 when
it was attacked by East German neo-
Nazis with fallen tombstones providing
the evidence. Much remains though
and the canopy of trees provides a Kollwitzplatz The platz also includes a great
fitting resting place. Indeed nature is playground, and despite its closed
U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz
a key theme when visiting, as moss surroundings, it is still possible to hear
and ivy are now beginning to wrap Influenced by the designs of Reinhold the bustle of various eateries which
themselves around the weathered Linger, Kollwitzplatz is great for any surround the platz and provide the
tomb stones. The rows of tomb number of activities. Some may be chance for pleasant refreshment. The
stones provide a sense of order but inclined to sunbathe, while others platz itself is named after the famous
this is broken by the many small may want to practice their table- artist who lived in the area, Katty
paths that criss-cross the cemetery tennis skills, or simply relax with Kollwitz, and whose statue watches
and provide a more natural feel. As a friends. Alternatively, once past the over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it
consequence small corners can easily trees that encircle the plaz, the is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’
be found, especially at the end of clearing provides a perfect spot for own work. Indeed the presence of a
the cemetery, allowing that poignant that reflective moment or a chance work that conveys such sombreness
moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer to simply admire the ornate buildings and reflection is a theme that could
and artist Max Liebermann. that are a feature of the area. describe the whole platz.
Prenzlauer Berg 52
Arts & Culture
Volkspark Weinberg
Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler
Platz and Fehbelliner Str. U-Bahn:
Rosenthaler Platz.
Don’t let finances get in the way of
fun! There are many activities in
Berlin that are free of charge. Not
least of these are the parks and
playgrounds scattered about the city.
For those who are mature enough to
admit they still enjoy a good tire
swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark
Weinberg will provide an enjoyable
cost-free evening. During the day
this park is dominated by parents
and their children, as nightfalls this
place is left empty for the bigger
53 Prenzlauer Berg
cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue
pyramids spurting water, and a
behemoth of a jungle gym, even the
most grown-up of people will feel the
urge to summon their inner child. The
shallow wading pool provides a nice
place to cool your feet, or your bum
for that matter after receiving slide-
burns over on the play structures.
Even if you stop by in the daytime
and a younger crowd occupies the
games equipment, there are still
two cafes, the lily pond, and the
rose garden to enjoy. Merely sitting
on a bench listening to the church
bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a
relaxing experience. So if your wallet
is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to
let the kid within you out!
Shopping
Who Killed Bambi?
w w w. w h o k i l l e d b a m b i . o r g
Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel:
+49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Mon-
sat 12pm – 8pm
Note: this clothes store has nothing
to do with Disney. Offering a
generous selection of alternative
attire for both men and women, Who
Killed Bambi is the place to go for
fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a
range of street-wear labels from the
locally produced Made in Paradise
to European favourite Desigual,
Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the
largest of three in Berlin. Browse the
racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for
that attention-grabbing purchase,
or lust after the unique Who Killed
Bambi bowling bags.
A little something extra ...
Photobooths
Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2.
Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you
four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all
scattered around Berlin. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw
Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them by. But keep your eye
keen - for only 2€ fun memories can be captured (and can also be used
to make your friends at home jealous!)
Prenzlauer Berg
54
 Shopping Shopping

Interview with Karin Nieto,
Organiser of The White
Market.
TheWhiteMarket.com.
KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee
36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm
– 7pm. Log on to the website for
the next The White
Market event.
The White Market is
a new fashion event
based in the diverse
shopping area of
Prenzlauer Berg.
Locals and tourists
alike visit the chic,
outdoor market for
a taste of original
Berlin craftsmanship
at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural
hub.
Having hosted only four events
of its kind so far, organiser Karen
Nieto speaks to us about this unique
project and the exciting prospects
for The White Market.
When did you first come up with
the idea for The White Market and
what made you decide to pursue
this venture?
The idea for the White Market was
conceived in 2008, during one of
those shopping ruts everyone gets beginning: outdoor summer shopping Describe your typical ‘The White
into sometimes. under rows of white canopies. Plus, Market’ customer.
the name suits the philosophy of
Berlin is a creative city, bustling with
the market: all products are unique
The White Market attracts people
talented designers, but shopping from all walks of life who have
and hand-made; the exact opposite
can be inconvenient and uninspiring one thing in common: an eye for
of what you might find in a black
sometimes. Since moving here two fashion. Tourists come in droves
market.
years ago, we’ve been flying every and Berlin locals are equally excited
season to New York How do you select the designers that by the prospect of a new shopping
or Paris to get our exhibit at The White Market, and experience to discover. You are
fashion fix. In these how many do you choose to show at located at KulturBrauerei in the
cities, shopping any one event? popular shopping area of Prenzlauer
more than just a Berg. How did you decide on the area
Each designer must submit images
means to an end, in which The White Market is held,
of their collections, and we review
it’s an experience. and how important do you think this
them based on the following criteria:
We recognized is to the project’s success?
original design, craftsmanship, and
Berlin already had
small production runs. We show Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled
all the elements:
approximately 40 designers per out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not
talented designers,
market, and we make sure there is overly-touristy like other districts
good quality
an equal number between clothing in Berlin. The neighbourhood has
craftsmanship,
and accessory designers. a perfect blend of a young creative
endless sources of inspiration, etc.
set that keeps the area exciting and
All we had to do was connect the What items can we find on sale at
inspiring and young families with
elements. Our concept was simple: The White Market and is there an
a more disposable income keep it
bring the best designers under one average price range?
prosperous. The KulturBrauerei is
roof (or umbrella in our case) and
The White Market only exhibits incredibly charming, and it’s a Berlin
present their collections in a pretty
handmade items from independent landmark. The fact that everyone
white package – and voila, the White
designers with non mass-produced knows it, means we don’t have to
Market shopping experience was
collections. In order to remain give directions and the location gave
born.
true to the initial concept of the the market a sense of establishment
How did you come up with the name White Market, it is exclusively a from the get go.
‘The White Market’? fashion market selling clothing and
Are you a designer yourself, and if so
accessories. The price range is very
We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’ do you exhibit any of your items at
broad starting at ten euros goingup
because that’s how we visualized the The White Market?
to 200 euros.

55 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 56

 Shopping
Yes, I’m an architect and clothing
designer. I’m launching a line
of jewellery to sell at the White
Market – I just need to find time to
make it!
What do you think sets Berlin apart
from the rest of the world in terms
of fashion and style?
Berlin’s unique history plays an
57 Prenzlauer Berg
Shopping
integral role in local fashion. Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
Berliners take the term ‘eighties or (Flea Market)
nineties throwback’ to a new extrem
e that stretches into each fibre of its Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8 Everything from household goods
aesthetic culture from furniture to Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm to clothing, records, books and
architecture and clothing. Berlin’s bicycles can be found here. There’s
Prenzlauer Berg may not have undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good
endless array of second hand shops the alternative edge of areas like
and various flea markets caters to rummage through the cardboard
Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but boxes should yield a worthwhile
ones every nostalgic whim. The White the now affluent area retains some
Market has been embraced because reward. Prices start off pretty low,
of its bohemian cool. This makes it but if not don’t be afraid to barter,
though it exclusively presents is new the perfect place for secondhand
things, it encourages home-grown as there are plenty of bargains to be
shoppers who want to snap up had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap
individuality and creativity: integral some of the residents’ castoffs. The
facets of Berlin fashion. as three euro, books from about 50
massive market on Bernauer Straße cents, and bicycles for about 30 to
Where do you see The White Market is on every Sunday, and with plenty 50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure
five years from now? of great food stalls and bars, it’s to leave plenty of time to make your
easy to spend the whole day here. way through the crowds.
As a destination for trend forecasters
and shopaholics alike –a Berlin fashion
establishment. We have already
received international interest in
the White Market which would be
the natural next step for us to take
for the market
to grow organically. In addition, the
possibility of a White Market label is
also on the cards. The label would
present collections of selected
market designers. The designers
would change along with the seasons
and the White Market label would
serve, like the market, as a spring-
board into the global world of
fashion.
Prenzlauer Berg
58
 Shopping
Tausche
www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8.
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49
30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon-
Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm.
Tausche is no ordinary bag shop.
This contemporary store sells Berlin-
made, multi-functional, multi-
faceted messenger bags which are
unique in their ability to alter both
purpose and appearance. Tausche
bags are available in eight different
sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and
come with two exchangeable cover
flaps upon purchase. Just unzip
the front and transform the bag’s
aesthetic in one swift movement
with another cover. Visit the
59 Prenzlauer Berg
exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer
Berg and browse through the
collection of covers decorating the
shop’s interior in order to customise
your chosen style. From pretty florals,
to iconic local images like the Berlin
TV tower, the range of designs is
seemingly endless. Team these with
an additional inset in black or orange
to accommodate for individual,
practical needs. The cushioned
Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a
15” laptop, while the Rabenvater
offers space for baby food, nappies
and anything else the little one might
need. Insets start at €25 for a simple
separator, with the more expensive
laptop compartment costing €55.
Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz
U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday
9am – 5pm
Arkonaplatz is a smaller market,
with higher quality goods and prices
to match. The focus is on vintage
and retro clothes and household
goods, with a particularly impressive
selection of sunglasses. The market is
also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with
plenty of boxes filled with records.
There is also a great collection
of interesting old record players.
Afterwards, you can relax in the
pretty little park next door, which is
Shopping
and is a perfect spot for a picnic or Supaife Kiosk
sunbathing in the summer.
Raumerstr. 40, 10437 Berlin, Phone:
44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife.
Pigasus Poster Gallery de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed,
www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz
62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone
Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat interested in street art or graphic
2pm-7pm design. This store sells both books on
A gallery that is a little bit different, the subjects as well as small-edition
Pigasus offers a broad range of prints and artists books. Silk-screened
posters for sale. Among them t-shirts, postcards and stickers round
are designs that were originally out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also
printed for film, theatre, opera and serves as a gallery for art exhibitions,
exhibitions. There are both vintage with the openings often featuring
and more contemporary posters, live music. With a diverse collection
and those on show are continually of various kinds of graphic arts, this
changing. Prices range from €15, to store is the perfect place to pick up
over €200 for rarer pieces. There an affordable work of art.
is also a good selection of CDs by
Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists
to buy.
Go downstairs and there is a small
but substantial enough changing
exhibition, focusing on the work
of one particular artist or theme.
A movement known as the Polish
Poster School emerged in the 50s,
the main protagonist being Henryk
Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs
tend to have a handmade feel, even
the more modern ones, and often
contain a political statement. Browse
and enjoy at your own leisure.
Prenzlauer Berg 60
 Shopping Shopping

Sentimental Journey
Husemannstr. 5, 10435 Berlin, Phone:
030/44328664, Email: journey@
arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun.
closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.
With the funky sequined dresses
hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis
above the door, you know you are
in for a real vintage treat when you
enter Sentimental Journey. Inside,
clothing, shoes and hats from the early
20th century until the present await.
Sentimental Journeys is everything a
vintage shop should be, with crowded
racks of dresses, scary mannequin
heads with ostentatious hats, and Stiefelkombinat ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go
even a white and black checked boots. There is also a large collection
Eberswalder Str. 21/22, Tel: 51 05 of vintage clothing, mostly from the
floor. To top it all off, in one room
12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri. 1960s through to the 1980s. Variety
there is a shrine to Elvis, complete
and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed. abounds, with everything from
with a piano and velvet stool, a
large cut out of The King himself, Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits
and a ceramic band arranged on top say the least. The experience begins and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up
of the piano. Many treasures await before even entering the premises, to the rafters, the shop can be a little
discovery in this store: collapsible top as its contents spill out onto the hard to take in fully and discover
hats, cocktail dresses, and even a hat street, making it hard to miss. that perfect find. But when you
featuring a knitted grand piano made Inside, shag rugs and furry stools do, it is the result of an enjoyable
by the owner herself. Although the are used in abundance, providing treasure hunt through the fashions of
prices may be on the higher end (said a suitably retro decor on which to yesteryear. Next door there is also
hat costing upwards of 100 euro), display the clothes. Shoes dominate men’s clothing and shoes, as well as
it is still worth a look if just for the the secondhand merchandise. There furniture more likely to be spotted in
feeling of nostalgia for a time when is a wide selection of both boots a 70s sci-fi flick. Prices here are not
you weren’t even around. and heels, which are all helpfully cheap, but they are justified on the
organized by size with clearly marked whole by the quality.
sections. Various choices abound,

61 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg

62
Food & Drink Food & Drink

Babel Focacceria Naturale
Kastanienalle33, Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder
U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12.
Straße noon - than you may like). If a salad is not
For a quick pit stop during shopping
midnight
ventures on Kastanienalle, this
For a kebab you won’t ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great
regret the morning alternative from the often meat-
after, Babel is the heavy Kebab and Currywurst stalls
place to go. Serving so readily found in Berlin. With
deliciously authentic toppings varying from spinach, ham,
meals at the wallet- tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats
friendly price of cheese, and a sizeable slice costing
just three Euro, this only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect
makes the perfect place for refuelling. What’s more,
spot to stop off for the juice bar along the counter offers
a quick bite between similar variety. Freshly stocked from
bars. Particularly the vibrant fruit and veg shop next
recommended are door, prices range from a pocket-
the chicken schwarma friendly two to four euro depending
or grilled haloumi. on how much fruit you want thrown
Sitting on the terrace in. All in all, the perfect place to take
outside is a good spot a pause and plan your next shopping
to watch the well-to- venture.
do hipster inhabitants
of the surrounding
Tabeyo
area go preening and prancing about Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn:
their business. The restaurant itself Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402
is run by a couple of genial Lebanese
At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince
guys and attracts a healthy mix of
on a pauper’s pocket. Offering
homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and
freshly made sushi with good quality
boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered
ingredients at the overtly generous
is this place in fact that it has even
price of two euro for six rolls, it is
made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20
easy to see why this place has become
places to eat in Berlin.
a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s
discerning residents.
Fellas
www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder
Straße U-bahn: Schonhauser Allee.
Tel:46796314; 10 am- 1am.
If a big hearty salad is what you’re
looking for, then head to Fellas. With
enough greenery to last you a week
this dimly lit, wooden furnished
restaurant-come-bar is a great
place for private dinners or long lazy
lunches. Although fairly expensive,
you’re money will defiantly go a
long way. Order a Sportsfreund
salad and a mount of crispy leaves,
peppers, tomato, cucumber and
succulent chicken will arrive a short
while after (perhaps a little longer
what you’re after, soups, bagels
and ciabatta sandwiches are also
available for a more pocket friendly
price. There are also generous happy
hour(s) and limitless wifi.
W-Imbiss
www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee
49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302
0678 noon-midnight.
Best described as an Indian-Italian-
Californian fusion restaurant,
W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of
Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes
its name from the German ‘Imbiss’
meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo is
the notorious golden arches turned
upside down hinting that W-Imbiss
is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef,
Gordon W, dishes out everything from
naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas,
producing scrumptious, eccentric,
gastronomy in minutes. A tannoy
system declares your food is ready to
be collected from the postage stamp
sized kitchen. Choose to take away
or eat outside among large plastic
orange tables.

63 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 64

Food & Drink
Hans Wurst Café
w w w. m y s p a c e . c o m /
hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr
2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse.
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel.
030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm-
12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4-
9, lunch specials from 12-3.
This vegan organic café is an
excellent alternative to those who
like unconventional menus. Its quaint
atmosphere and relaxing ambience
makes you feel welcome right from
the start. It is filled with antique
sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you
Lorbeth Feine Kost
Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn:
Eberswalder Straße
Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in
traditional German cuisine with a
contemporary twist. The café come
restaurant provides traditional foods
including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and
Schnitzel, brought into the 21st
century when mixed with usual
and exciting flavours. Greeted by a
mishmash of tables and umbrellas
surrounded by leafy plants, you can
choose to eat indoors or out. Whether
stopping by for a full-blown dinner or
just tea and cake, the menu changes
daily so you will never get bored of
65 Prenzlauer Berg
the delicious food. Fear not if your
German is not yet fluent, the friendly
staff will help you with translation;
they will happily consult an online
to stay for as long as you please with
access to free wifi. Juxtaposed to the
antique furniture are the modern light
fixtures, fresh flowers on every table,
as well as the natural food choices.
All of the dishes contain variations
of tofu, including salads, burgers,
sandwiches, and stir fry. There are
various cakes and cookies for dessert.
Additionally, the cafe hosts several
parties a month introducing bands
from all over the globe.
German translator to decipher the
delectable German menu. Doggy
bags are available as is free WiFi.
The Bird
www.thebirdberlin.com. Am
Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser
Allee. Tel: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6
pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight
Two words: Meat heaven! Vegetarians
are advised to stay away from this
rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where
even the Ceasar salad has steak in
it. Serving the best burgers in Berlin,
devour a freshly ground Iowa steak
patty, sandwiched between a toasted
English muffin served up with a crisp
salad and a side of homemade fries.
Its witty menu (which includes an
obituary to a once popular burger no
longer in production) will tempt you
with a wealth of toppings from blue
cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t
whet your appetite then try the
surprisingly cheaper option of steak
also accompanied with salad and
fries. Although cutlery is provided
for the steak, eating burgers with
your fingers is strongly advised!
No need to worry about the mess
though as kitchen roll accompanies
the condiments on every table
Food & Drink
Nocti Vagus
www.noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker
Str. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder
Platz. Tel: +49 3 074 749 123.
Prices start from €49 including a
show, and Mondays are cheaper
with set menus starting from €29.
Treat yourself to a high quality
dinner in the dark in the original
dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus.
Prepare to awaken and revitalise
the only four senses you have left…
smells of the succulent food passing
by will waft up your nose, noises of
the anonymous patrons and blind
waiters will fill your ears as you
orientate yourself at your table by
touch, and finally when your food
arrives your taste buds will explode
with the culinary delights the chefs
have prepared especially for you.In
this restaurant you will experience
what it is like to be blind. You will
form judgements, based not on
appearance but, on how a person
speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is
not so easy when you’re blind and
you will have to call for an escort
to lead the way. Even pouring
your drinks in the dark may prove
difficult. Choose to eat with a
knife and fork, or just get messy
with your hands. Will you even find
Prenzlauer Berg 66
Food & Drink Food & Drink
your food and be able to tell what an experience, this restaurant also Zur Rose Erdbeer
it is without sight? The challenges offers various shows to accompany
you’ll experience being blinded by your meal. These shows include Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa- Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa-
the dark will open your mind and various readers, singers, and actors Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler Luxembourg Platz Open Summer
may change your preconceptions of who take to the dark stage for your platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am- 2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late
what you thought it was like to have entertainment. The timetable for 1am, daily. No credit cards.
no vision.On these events Sandwiched between a little row Erdbeer’s proximity to the array
arrival you will is available on of the many eateries found in of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz
be welcomed the website Rosenthaler and Rosenthaler Platz makes
into the with dates for Platz, is it the perfect place to start an
restaurant bar non-German this bustling evening. Its reputation for mouth-
which is located speaking tourists hangout. Its watering and varied cocktails is well
upstairs in the pointed out. rustic style, deserved, and the extensive menu
light. Here with antique only presents one problem: which
Once you finish
is where you furnishings drink to choose! Be prepared to
your meal and
decide what found in splash out, as cocktail prices begin
are welcomed
you would like the back aaround Seven Euro. However, for
back into the
to eat. Ordering and small the delicious drinks and intimate
light, prepare
c o u l d n ’ t garden tables atmosphere, it is money well spent.
to be surprised
be simpler, squeezed in
by what you During the week, an eclectic mix of
with three the front,
thought you ate music is played in the background
set menu’s makes a
and what you at a fairly low level, offering guests
incorporating pleasant
thought your the rare chance to have an audible
three courses place to sit back and contemplate
blind waiter conversation in such an environment.
including a a days sight seeing. The food comes
looked like. Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get
vegetarian in generous portions and budget
Also make sure guests revved up for the night ahead.
option and a friendly prices, where breakfasts
you check your The candle-lit tables, pink décor and
fourth tailored and lunches range from 3-5€, and
shirt for debris; mismatched chairs all add to the
surprise menu dinner plates including pastas and
you never charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a
for those feeling salads from 5-9€. Make sure to
know what you low-key and relaxing venue, which also
a tad more daring. Once your order check out the “tap your own beer”
dropped down there in the dark! serves a wide selection of beers and
is placed a waiter will lead you down service, where you can help yourself
Make a call and reserve your table non-alcoholic refreshments for non-
to the basement restaurant where to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each).
because this place can get busy, cocktail drinkers. Well worth a visit.
the excitement begins.If eating in Cocktails are also good (and strong),
the dark does not sound enough of then prepare for the unexpected. and average around €5.

67 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg

68
 Nightlife Nightlife
White Trash Dr Pong in smaller groups, as large swathes
of tourists can irritate the loyal
w w w. w h i t e t r a s h f a s t f o o d . c o m upcoming indie bands to occasional Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00- punters. It empties out after awhile,
Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa- internationally-known acts. As if all late Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1, so hold on if you’re finding it a bit
Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668 this wasn’t enough, there’s also an M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late, overwhelming. Chessboards are also
Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from in-house tattoo parlour if you feel
Hidden away on a busy street in available if table tennis isn’t your
6pm. like permanently marking your body
Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but thing.
is the perfect accompaniment to a
Dining at White Trash is a sure-fire meal. The service has been known to dim lighting and occasional cheers to
way to induce a sensory overload. suggest it being open for business, is Rosengarten
be shoddy at times, and explicitly
This converted Chinese a cheap and a great way to spend an www.rosengarten-berlin.de. Wein-
restaurant, replete evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a bergsweg 13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler
with gaudy Oriental 5€ deposit is needed) and head to the Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun
flourishes and garnished sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged 1pm – 12pm.
with bizarre bric-a- room whose focal point is a large ping
Rosengarten is an excellent place
brac, serves up decent pong table. The rules are simple:
to rest your feet with a cool drink
American-style dishes every time a new round starts, join
after a day’s sightseeing or shop-
with incendiary titles the rotating circle of competitors and
ping. Beautifully situated by the
such as “The Marquee take turns in hitting the ball back to
eponymous rose garden in Volk-
de Fuck Burger”. each other. If you miss a shot, join
spark Weinberg, the atmosphere
Wolfing this down the many who simply come along to
is exceptionally laid back. Striped
whilst being serenaded watch. Hit every shot and you will
deckchairs are set out next to the
by a thrash metal band find yourself in the five-round-finale
small outdoor bar where super
in what resembles a where although discreet, the winning
friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft
schizophrenic bordello title will gain you respect from
drinks and cake. A great program of
provides a uniquely Berlin’s table-
events is on
entertaining experience. When rude at others. By all accounts, you’re tennis mega-
offer, such as
you’ve finished, or given up on, your more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from fans. Rounds
film screen-
outrageously large portion, head your waiter than “Bon appetit!” can start with
ings and live
downstairs to dance off the calories However, go in expecting something as little as 3
music. On
in the misnomer that is though if easily a little different from your average to as many as
Wednesdays
offended. The Diamond Lounge, the culinary experience and you’ll be 30 players, so
at 7pm there
dingy basement club. Here the music pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to be confident
are even
is loud and the acts vary from local steer clear to ensure you
hula-hoop
get a swing in.
workshops.
Best to come

69 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 70

Accommodation
Alkatraz
w w w. a l c a t r a z - b a c k p a c k e r.
de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2
Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30
48496815
S 40, D 25, T 22
4 bedroom dorm 18
8 bedroom dorm 16
Apartments (4 people) 106,
people) 116, (6 people) 126
Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand
This urban, hip hostel located on
the busy street of Schönhauser Allee
stands out from the rest. With its
unique exterior of graffiti, it’s hard
to walk past without being intrigued
by what lies within. You can find
all kinds of travellers residing here
from students, backpackers, walk-
ins and occasionally families. The
small intimate courtyard is an ideal
place to sit back and unwind. The
common area with TV, table football,
books and leaflets galore make sure
you will be kept busy. There is a
lobby where computers are located
with free internet access (you can
also access the internet with your
own notebook via wi-fi). The self-
service kitchen/lounge is bright and
colourful and has a relaxed vibe.
71 Prenzlauer Berg
East Seven Hostel
www.eastseven.de. Schwedter
Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz.
Tel: 936 22 240
Dorm: 17
S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78
Linen: 3
Towels: 1euro
(5
Visa and Mastercard accepted (small
fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover
costs)
Situated just north of Berlin’s
über-hip Mitte district, this small,
comfortable hostel offers travellers
a wide range of clean, high quality
affordable accommodation. With
spacious bathrooms and hot showers
Accommodation
on every floor, what more could “Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make
a budding traveller ask for. Not to you eat your passport!” – is the note
mention being surrounded by cafes, you will find in the kitchen of this
restaurants, nightlife and of course laidback hostel. The bright
lots of shops. A trip to the famous
Mauer Park fleamarket on Sunday is
a must. Or relax in the cosy garden
house/barbeque area among other
guests. The friendly and welcoming
staff are always on hand 24/7 with
tips and tricks to help you make the
most of your time in the city. The
hostel offers a range of services
including: laundry service, free
lockers in rooms, free luggage
storage, free maps and free wi-fi.
The East Seven Berlin hostel fosters a
relaxed atmosphere all year round.
Lette’m Sleep orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep
fit in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s
www.backpackers.de. Lettestraße
vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel
7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. hosts a mixture of nationalities
Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49
all year round; backpackers from
(0)30 44733625 Finland, a family from Spain, an
7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€, American biker… you’ll find them
5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€, here. With its no curfew policy
3 bed dorms 21€ travellers may come and go as they
please. The little common room has
Twin room: 49€ everything you could need including
Apartment: 69€/room a night for free internet, tea, coffee, and a
two people great DVD collection. This hostel has
the vibe of Berlin built in. It’s down-
Linen: Included no charge to-earth, nonchalant cool.
Towels: 70cent
Prenzlauer Berg 72
 Potsdamer Platz
& Tiergarten
Information
Potsdamer Platz is Berlin’s newest Platz turned to rubble, and when
quarter. Showcasing architectural the Berlin Wall was erected straight
gems such as the dramatic Sony through the heart of the square in
Centre, the square is dominated by 1961, all transport connections were
mainstream commercial success. cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost
Providing three multiplex cinemas, town.
a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton,
Situated close to Potsdamer Platz
Europe’s largest casino and a
is Berlin’s answer to Hyde Park:
multitude of non-descript bars
Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a
and restaurants, the development
hunting ground in the 17th Century,
of Potsdamer Platz has not been
today Tiergarten is a popular spot
without its critics. That being said,
for relaxing in the sun after a day
the bustling centre continues to
of cultural activity. Escape from the
attract tourists and locals alike.
city in the green open space or visit
Whether it is for the impressive
Berlin’s zoo situated on the outskirts.
architecture, the selection of
museums, events such as the Berlin
Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx),
or simply as a means to witness the
enormous renewal of the square,
there is no doubting that this is one
of Berlin’s busiest areas.
It could be said that Potsdamer
Platz is a version of its former self.
In the early 20th Century the square
was one of Europe’s biggest traffic
centres that defined Berlin and it is
even said to have housed Europe’s
first electric traffic lights. While a
replica of the lights can now be seen
as soon as you step off the S-Bahn,
little else exists that acknowledges
the history of the area.
During WW2, much of Potsdamer

73 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 74

Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturforum class, with its collection of European Old

Master paintings. Joining this building
Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn: are also the Kunstgewerbemuseum
U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz (Museum of Decorative Art), the
The Kulturforum is a complex of Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints
some of Berlin’s main galleries and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek
and museums. It was planned out (Art Library). The Philharmonie is
post World War Two, after several home to the Berlin Philharmonic
important cultural institutions Orchestra, and is an astounding
were cut off from West Berlin, golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped
and build on a site that had been masterpiece of a building designed by
cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation
Neue Nationalgalerie was built for superb acoustics. Next door, the
first in 1968, at a time when the Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small
Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel museum of musical instruments from
was separated by the wall on the the sixteenth century on, with guides
Eastern side of the city. It now giving performances on Saturdays at
contains an unmissable collection 11am. And if all that wasn’t enough,
of 20th century art, even if the the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is
permanent collection often gives also here, another Scharoun building
way to (also excellent) temporary (haunted by angels in the classic Berlin- Gemäldergalerie
exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie based film Wings of Desire) and has a Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266 works housed here, the other half of
(Painting Gallery) is also world- great selection of books in English. 2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm the collection remains in the Bode
Thur. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz Museum in Mitte. The museum itself
consists of a large central hall flanked
Bargain time... The Gemäldergalerie, part of the by series of galleries on either side.
Kulturforum, is impressive to say the Advance through history as you move
Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museums at the least. This picture gallery houses
kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes through the museum, with the newest
European works spanning the 13th works at the back. Due to the sheer
the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum through the 18th centuries. Pieces
of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings), number of works, it would be advisable
by masters such as Jan van Eyck, to spare a couple of hours to see the
Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-Museum Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt,
(Musical Instruments Museum). whole collection. If you don’t have
Vermeer and Dürer are the crown that much time to spare, then choose
jewels in an already stunning a couple centuries or artists to see for
collection. Aside from the 1500 a shorter, less intensive visit.

75 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 76

Arts & Culture
Neue-national Gallerie
www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.
Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S-
Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30
266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am-
6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat
10am-8pm. Price: €5-10.
Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in
itself not to be missed. Designed by
Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts
special temporary exhibitions that
can last for a couple of years as well
as works of classical Modernism and
1960-70s art work. The permanent
exhibition is located in the lower
part of the gallery.
The temporary collections focus
on representations of Cubism,
Expressionism, Surrealism and the
Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume
(Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung
Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition
is running up until November 2009.
The Bilderträume is an unmissable
opportunity to view possibly the
most private collection in Berlin.
What makes this exhibition so unique
is the collection is solely based on
two distinctive styles; Surrealism
and Abstract Expressionism. The art
of Surrealism is a style that was first
developed from direct Surrealist
influences in New York following
77 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
WWII and is still recognised today.
This forms the core of the collection
while the second part of the collection
focuses on the early works of Abstract
Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner
Pietzsch collection began over 40
years ago and comprises of over 180
artistic pieces by some of the world’s
most influential artists, such as Max
Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning.
Walking around this remarkable gallery
are amazing pieces of art that go from
stunning to bizarre, fantastical to
grotesque. What’s more the artists’
surreal and abstract styles are
perfectly presented throughout the
exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity
and wonder around each corner.
The exhibition illustrates the
development of abstract expressionism
and surrealism and it is truly amazing
how each artist individually conveys
this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can
be found on the website.
Museum fur Film und
Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum)
w w w. d e u t s c h e - k i n e m a t h e k . d e .
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel:
+49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am-
6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50
concession
A treasure to film enthusiasts and
history nuts alike, this museum
focuses on the last 100 years of
German film history. A particular
emphasis is placed on the golden
era, when Berlin came close to
matching those of Hollywood.
Upon entering, be sure to grab the
free audio guide. Take a wander
through the permanent exhibition.
Images invert and skew and reflect
as mirrors and irregular walls almost
convey a walk within the confines
of the lens of a camera. Black
and white films are beautifully
juxtaposed against the modern
interior decor and each exhibit is
insightful and to the point. Presented
chronologically, classic film fans will
relish behind-the-scenes glimpses
of films including “Das Cabinet Des
Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis”
Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
Arts & Culture
Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the
permanent exhibition is a temporary
“Moments in Time 1989/1990” display.
Following the fall of the Berlin wall
and aware that their protest could
no longer be stopped, Berliners
increasingly felt a desire to capture
events on film. Taken by private
individuals in diverse and personal
ways, the presentation sheds some
additional light on the most important
period in post-war German history
in a colourful and insightful manner.
Leaving as much to the imagination as
objectively illustrating the events and
emotions felt at the time, the display
is a rare insight into the events of 1989
Berlin from the perspectives of directly
affected individuals set comparatively
against worldwide news reports issued
at the same time.
78
Arts & Culture
Zoologischer Garten
Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn -
Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30
25401- 0, info@zoo-berlin.deOpened
in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in
Germany and one of the largest
zoos in the world, with the widest
variety of species which doesn’t fail
to impress from the moment you
step through the gates. The park
itself is visually stunning with lush
green trees and intermittent water
features.
Even if you’re not interested
in the surrounding the sheer
range of species won’t leave you
disappointed. With around 14,000
animals, there is plenty to see and a
lot of ground to cover. Give yourself
plenty of time for the visit as it is
79 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
very easy to spend the best part of the
day there, and comfortable footwear
is definitely recommended. There are
plenty of places to get a drink or snack
within the park and also there is a large
restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie,
located at the heart of the zoo.
One of the best times of day to see
the animals is at feeding time and
the times are posted on signs at the
enclosures. Unfortunately there are
no free maps and information leaflets,
although there is a map in the back of
the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which
will set you back €4.
If you don’t want to shell out for a
book there are maps located at regular
intervals around the zoo and it is fairly
easy to navigate or you can download
a plan of the zoo from their website.
Kunst und Trödel Märkte
www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de.
Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026
550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat-
Sun 10am-5pm
The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring
Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt
are bustling, busy Berlin weekend
markets that offer an interesting
and distinctive experience. They
boast unique artifacts and clothing
and there are great bargains to be
had, especially if you’re ready to
haggle.
At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the
muddle of second-hand and vintage
clothing and jewellery, antique
furniture and silverware, old
paintings, collector’s coins and used
records and books, there is sure
to be something that catches your
eye.
The Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt
is located just through the
Charlottenburg Gate and across
the Landswehrkanal from the
Trödelmarkt. Here local artists and
designers display and sell their work
including jewellery, wooden toys,
ceramics, paintings and clothing.
The selection ranges from gaudy to
tasteful but all items are certainly
original.
Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
Arts & Culture
Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz
www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de
Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn:
Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 3025 59270.
Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.
For the mainstream shopping
experience, head to Arkaden. Situated
in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer
Platz, this three-storey complex
epitomises what this oncehistoric
site now has to offer. The commercial
shopping mall houses European fashion
favourites such as Mango, H&M and
Zara as well as Tommy Hilfiger and
Swarovski for the high-end shoppers.
While including internationally
renowned stores and commonplace
establishments like McDonalds and
Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a
moderate selection of German gems.
Take a look in Bree for a selection
of Berlin-made leather handbags or
try Sergio Engel for locally produced
jewellery.
80
Arts & Culture
Rowing in the Tiergarten
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn:
Tiergarten/Zoological. Tel:30
25 44 930.
The lake in the Tiergarten is the
perfect place to relax. On the
grassy shores of Neuer See are
relaxing deck chairs where you
can take a nap, or enjoy a beer
from the nearby beer garden
(see page). For those looking
for a bit of fun, you can also
rent rowboats and go exploring.
On jumping into the boats, it
doesn’t seem like you have far
to go. Although the late isn’t
huge, there are many little
passageways that adventurers
can paddle through and explore.
Watch out for fish, ducks, and
the rare turtle. The odd collision
with another boat is always a
possibility. Prices for the boats
start at €5 for 30minutes and
€10 for 60minutes. Up to five
people can fit in the boat and
life vests are provided if needed.
The rental is inexpensive for
budgeting travellers who have
a few friends to share the boat
with.
81 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
English Garden
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/
Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:
€5-15.
Charm and atmosphere surround
this quaint little beer garden
nestled in the north-west corner of
the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending
in with the surrounding green areas
the English Garden remains one
of the hidden gems in the massive
park. This particular stop can prove
a bit challenging to find due to its
size and unpretentious demeanour,
however a little navigating and
exploring will yield a highly enjoyable
experience.
Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof
cottage, it’s not difficult to see why
the beer garden has been granted its
moniker. Echoing scenes of English
countryside, this establishment
provides a well needed break from
the hustle and bustle of Berlin
outside the Tiergarten boundaries.
Look for the English Garden on a
weekday and you could easily miss it.
Look for it on a weekend, and all you
need to do is follow the jazz music.
Every weekend the English Garden
is host to a slew of jazz ensembles
which draw a large crowd to the
otherwise calm watering hole.
Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
Food & Drink
Music played until sunset combined
with the beautiful urroundings makes
this place an inevitable stop on a
weekend Tiergarten stroll.
Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2
to €4. Food starts from €4 with their
menu (although slightly limited in
hot foods) provides an extensive ice-
cream and milkshake list. On the
weekends, during jazz concerts the
English Garden also opens additional
food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish
and other world cuisines.
Cafe an Neuen See
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/
Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:
€5-15.
Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer
garden tops the list. Cold beer, good
food and a magical atmosphere awaits
your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden
in the trees, you can rent boats and
row around the lake or take over some
deckchairs on the grass.
Dinner will set you back around 10€.
Grab eine Maß (a pint of beer) and
fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of finely
ground corned beef, pork and onions)
with potato salad, snuggle onto one of
the communal tables – don’t be shy,
and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere
with some friends.
82
Food & Drink
Let’s be honest...
Potsdammer Platz is expensive,
touristy and lacking in quality
when it comes to food and
drink. You would be much
better hopping on the U -Bahn
and going elsewhere. If you
absolutely must dine here,
listed below are a few places
you could try. If they don’t
tempt you numerous generic
restaurants and bars can be
found in the Sony centre.
Weilands Wellfood
www.weilands-wellfood.de
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn:
Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717
If feeling a bit bloated after too
much beer and bratwurst, head
to this wholesome self-service
buffet. Satisfying the most health
conscious consumers, benefit from
salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat
pasta dishes. Reasonably priced
averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be
warned that flavours may differ
from what’s advertised. Free WiFi
available.
83 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
Billy Wilders
www.billywilders.de Potsdamer
Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz
Tel: 030-26 55 48 60
Much like its namesake, Billy
Wilder’s offers something a little
different from its contemporaries.
Surrounded on all fronts by
corporate brands and identikit bars,
this bar is a pocket of character in
an otherwise bland area. Presided
over by a large portrait of the
acclaimed director, responsible for
the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting
around the curved bar drinking tall
drinks whilst admiring the sleek art
deco interior is glamorous nostalgia,
all the more emphatic in its contrast
to the concrete jungle outside its
doors. Just a lift ride away from
the Museum of Cinema, there is no
more fitting way to reflect on the
golden age of Hollywood. They say
they don’t make like they used to;
well, in this case they do. Prices are
however indicative of the area so
best to get there during happy hour.
Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 84
Freidrichshain Information

An up and coming neighbourhood

in East Berlin, Friedrichshain offers
travellers a look into Berlin’s vibrant
bar, café, club, and restaurant
culture.
The neighbourhood boasts an
extensive nightlife where travellers
can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse,
enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the
beach bars on the Spree, experience
the underground punk scene, or have
a sleepless weekend gyrating on a
dance floor until Sunday afternoon.
Friedrichshain is unmistakeably
a neighbourhood of the East with
Socialist architecture and its grand
boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx-
Allee, formerly Stalinallee.
The East Side Gallery is the star
tourist attraction of this district. It is
the longest intact part of the Berlin
Wall, with many murals created by
known and unknown artists alike.
Gentrification is quickly closing in
on this eccentric neighbourhood.
The O2 World Arena recently opened
and there are plans to continue
developing and do away with many of
the quirks like its famed beach bars,
which make this neighbourhood tick.
Hopefully, the area will survive this
demolition and continue to flourish
under Berlin’s counter culture.

85 Freidrichshain 86
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

East Side Gallery by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which

portrays communist leaders Erich
w w w. e a s t s i d e g a l l e r y. c o m . Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked
Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/ in a passionate embrace. Another
Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission. iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly
Located in an area where sightseeing illustrates an East German Trabant
is all but void this 1.3km long stretch bursting through the Wall in a
of the former Berlin Wall is now symbolic representation of a failed
home to murals created by 118 escape attempt. A visit to the sight
artists around the world. Opening before the final section is repainted
as a gallery in 1990 the section is a allows the visitor the form their own
celebration of the fall of the wall and opinion on which best represents
a symbol of freedom and expression. freedom and expression.
It is also the longest remaining
section of this concrete divider left
in Berlin.
Upon approaching this outdoor
gallery the €2.2 million restoration
process taking place is evident.
Freshly reconditioned murals shine
out beside the rawness of original
sections scarred by weathering and
often less artistic graffiti. The gallery
is now being renovated in stages in
preparation for the 20th anniversary
of the reunification of Berlin.
Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’
process as only 80% of the original
artists were able to be contacted to
restore their own pieces.
Famous murals which have been
replicated without the artists’
permission include “God help
me to survive this deadly love”,

87 88
 Food & Drink
Qrazy:Ling’s
www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13
Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493
157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pm-
late, Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to
€9.
The strikingly colourful graffiti façade
of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out
authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but
on entrance you’ll find an intricate
hand-made décor and an impressive
menu of mouth-watering delights.
89
Vietnamese food is all about fresh
ingredients and fragrant aromas and
Qrazy:Ling’s food certainly embraces
this tradition.
Whether you go for the traditional
simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho
or the rice noodles with deliciously
marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will
be surprised at how much flavour
one mouthful can deliver. The main
meals are generously portioned with
affordable prices so you won’t go
home feeling hungry at the slightest.
Food & Drink
Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly
via an arch to art store Quality doused with tangy feta and balsamic,
Lovers which explains why this the salads are perfect for lunch and
traditional Vietnamese restaurant not to be missed in the evening is the
has such a quirky modern feel and a filling spätzle dishes: small potato
relaxed atmosphere to match. dumplings smothered with fresh herbs
and dotted with mushrooms, carrots
Service can be slow with big groups,
and chicken. Vegetarian options are
but for Ling’s utterly delectable
also available. Whether it’s for a
food, it is definitely worth the wait.
fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break
or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers
it all in the way of a smiling staff,
Cayetanom Mediterranean filling food and a soothing setting.
Restaurant If you’re in the area on Sunday,
Cayetano also offers an all-you-can-
Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn:
eat brunch on Sundays from 10am-
Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730
3pm.
042. Price: €5-10.
Settled in amongst trendy shops,
ice-cream parlors and cobblestone
pathways, Cayetano is perfectly
located for a mid-day sustenance
break. A number of outdoor tables
provide a cool, shaded atmosphere
for eating, drinking and people-
watching and the servers are
courteous and hospitable. The
portions are generous and come
with a fresh side salad as well as
soft, white bread.
The diner can choose between a
number of items, ranging from
American-style burgers, Italian
pasta dishes and typical German
90
Food & Drink
Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar
www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn:
Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse.
Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49
3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am,
Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10.
Situated on a busy street bursting
with worldwide cuisines at every
turn, Don is the place to be for
deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic
cocktails.
Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour
of up to 50% off selected dishes
from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s
starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish,
it’s a great way of trying the large
range of sushi they have on offer.
You can even watch the sushi chef at
work as he makes your sushi, which
adds a personal touch, and you can
be guaranteed that the fish is fresh!
Although the portions are slightly on
the small side the reduced price that
you pay means you are getting your
money’s worth, rather than being
overcharged for normal prices.
Sushi is usually associated with sake
and green tea, so it may seem odd
that Don Sushi offers a variety of
cocktails alongside its sushi menu.
Starting from €4 per glass, they are
refreshing little treats at the end of
91
a long day or alternatively the start
of a long night of exploring the city.
A handy tip: there is only one sushi
chef so it is recommended to go in
smaller groups to avoid a long wait,
as all orders for the same table arrive
together.
Food & Drink
Cafe Sibylle wait, but it does provide a great view
of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee.
Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn: This historical street, renamed after
Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz. Stalin was removed from power, was
Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. where East Berliners used to watch
Price: €0-5. the tanks roll by during the annual
military parades.
With a unique history spanning
back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle, With some coffee, cake, and
originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles communism, this is an enjoyable way
as both a cafe, and a communist to learn about an important piece of
museum. German history.
The cafe offers an assortment of
freshly baked cakes, ice-cream,
sandwiches, as well as a great
selection of cocktails, and non-
alcoholic drinks. While waiting for
your order, you are free to walk
around, and look at their collection
of Eastern Germany-era artifacts.
Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor
and outdoor seating. This unusual,
half-furnished cafe does a great
job meshing together modern art
with its utilitarian past. Behind
the brightly colored statues and
paintings, it is still possible to see
the bland colourless walls from its
GDR days.
With rhythmic jazz music in the
background and their eclectic décor,
indoors is a great place to sit and
chat, or to get some work done.
Outdoor seating might require a
92
 Nightlife
Lebowski’s
www.kneipe-lebowski.de.
Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn:
Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733
561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price:
€2-5.
An upside down bowling alley peering
down on patrons as they happily sip
away at their white Russians sets
the scene for this Friedrichshain
institution. Lebowski’s, a bar
based around the cult movie The
Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array
of colourful characters, most of
which have taken the movie’s main
character, The Dude, as a style icon,
donning trench coats, long hair and
even longer unkempt beards.
Lebowski’s manages to avoid the
common corny and trite pitfalls that
other themed bars tend to suffer
from. Managing to perfectly strike a
balance between paying tribute to
the cult movie while maintaining the
charm and charisma of the Berlin dive
bar scene, this watering hole serves
up heaps of personality. Wooden
columns and secluded nooks provide
an intimate and fun atmosphere for
a relaxed drink or an absinth-soaked
night of craziness.
93
The walls are covered with effigies
of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman
and Steve Buscemi, portraying their
characters in the movie and during
themed nights the movie is played
repeatedly on screens throughout the
bar; walk into the restrooms of this
weird and wonderful bar and you can
hear The Big Lebowski through the
loudspeakers dubbed into German.
This drinking establishment has
certainly been built by fans of the
movie for fans of the movie.
As such, no fan should leave without
having a White Russian, The Dude’s
favourite drink. White Russians will
run at €4.90 while draught beer runs
at under €3.
Nightlife
Cassiopeia
www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler
Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: War-
shauer Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594.
Entry: €4-8.
Along Friedrichshain’s infamous
Simon-Dach-Straße you can find a
vast array of bars but for something
a bit different head towards Revaler
Straße to stumble across the under-
world that is Cassiopeia.
There are two club floors that host a
wide range of musicians and djs from
a local standard right up to interna-
tionally renowned acts. Open every
night of the week except Mondays
you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock,
hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n
bass and much more but be sure to
check on their website to find out
what’s on.
Set in over 4,000m² of old factory
halls there is plenty of space to let
yourself go and soak up the unique
experience that this place has to of-
fer. Once inside the compound there
is a great feeling of separation from
the outside world due to the high
factory walls and towering trees but
you are given an enormous sense of
freedom by the sheer vastness of it
all.
94
 Nightlife
Astro
Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U-
Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3
029 661 615.
This sci-fi themed bar is always an
excellent place to start or finish
the night. It’s often guaranteed to
attract a fairly young crowd including
a number of tourists and with the
intimacy of the place it’s great for
meeting new people from all walks
of life.
Hanging from the ceiling are robots
and behind the bar is made to look like
the control panel of a space shuttle.
Go through to the back room and
they even have the game Asteroids
playing behind glass panels.
Aside from the space adventure the
drinks are reasonably priced and
the bar staff are often very friendly.
There are a wide range of cocktails
which are all large and very strong -
highly recommended is the caipirinha
for €5.
There is always good music playing
from electro to punk to reggae and
on weekends there are live DJ sets.
Granted there is no room to dance
but foot tapping and moderate hip
movements are encouraged.
95
Kptn A. Müller
www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse
32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer
Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks
€0-4.
There is one reason you have
to visit this bar – the drinks are
cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the
mismatched decor might be as well,
it just adds to the atmosphere and
at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg
who’s complaining?
It’s not just the beer either, cocktails
are mostly available at around €3.50
and they are not shy of alcohol either.
Basically your first €10 will get you a
long way.
The only downside is that it can be
a little cramped and the outside
seating and tables are packed away
at about 11.30pm. However this
should not deter, if all the seats are
taken you can stand up and play
table football in the back room.
Nightlife
Internationales Berliner mishmash of unique architecture,
Bierfestival novelty hats and quirky waitresses
make this event well worth a visit.
www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl- However be aware of a change in
Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor atmosphere after dark as the relaxed
or Strausberger Platz. First weekend environment is often disrupted by
of August. Free admittance. those who have had one too many in
On the first weekend of every August the sun.
Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into
what has been dubbed as ‘the
longest beer garden in the world’.
Running from Frankfurter Tor to
Strausberger Platz, the Berlin ‘Beer
Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000
guests sampling 1800 varieties of
beer from around the world.
The International Beer Festival is
a vibrant blend of entertainment,
eating, drinking and a great place
to catch a glimpse of Berliners at
play. Attracting a mix of young, old,
tourists and locals alike the crowd
is as diverse as the choice of beers.
An assortment of live music keeps
the slow moving crowd entertained
as they amble through. Taster mugs,
available on entry for €3.50, are a
convenient way of sampling the vast
range of beer on offer.
Also be sure to stop at one of the
reasonably priced food stalls for
a beer-complimenting snack such
as currywurst or potato salad. A
96
Accommodation
Eastern Comfort Hostel
Boat
www.eastern-
comfort.com.
Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U-
Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: +
49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am-
12am.
Prices:
1st class cabins:
€64-78
Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19
Dorms: cost €16pp
Camping costs €12pp
For those looking for a bit of
adventure on the open seas, or in
this case the open Spree, the Eastern
Comfort Hostelboat is ideal.
Straddling two up-and-coming
neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and
Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the
ideal location. The hostel itself has
kept its original design and offers
first- and second-class cabins on the
upper and lower decks of the ship.
First class is on the upper deck, and
includes private rooms with their
own bathrooms and views of the
East Side Gallery or the Spree River.
The lower deck is for aspiring sailors
with a tight budget. The rooms are
97
dorm style complete with their own
bathrooms and portholes overlooking
the river. There is also an option for
campers, who can set up tents on the
back of the boat. The floating lounge
on the top deck is a must see.
* Internet available
* Free wi-fi
* Breakfast €4
* Bedding €5/byo
* No curfew
* Bicycle-hire
* Laundry service
Accommodation
Ostel - Das GDR Design metres from the Ostbahnhof station,
Hostel which is just a few stops away from
Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte.
www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5.
S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025 * Breakfast €4.50
768 660. * Bike rental
* Wi-fi
Prices:
Dorm room: €9
Single room: €33
Double room: €54
Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to
re-live the days of the GDR before
the wall fell? Then the Ostel Hostel
is an excellent choice.
The hostel has embraced the idea of
Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for
life in the former GDR, which is still
present in Berliner society today.
Each room had been decorated to
emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete
with typical GDR household items,
such as patterned wallpaper, mod
lamps, and shag carpeting.
The hostel is not the most social
hostel since rooms are spread out
between a series of apartment
buildings, but each room is
immaculately clean and has its own
bathroom and a balcony.
The staff are very friendly and
helpful and always willing to answer
questions. The hostel is located a few
98
Kreuzberg Information

Kreuzberg is Berlin’s bastion of

counterculture, famous for its
punks, squatters, alternative art
scene and May Day riots. The Eastern
section, from Kottbusser Tor to the
Spree River, is the grittiest, and
the place where the squat scene
developed during the Cold War.
The area remains Berlin’s centre of
alternative politics and nightlife,
with a profusion of riverside bars
and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of
the main streets, and Wiener Straβe,
Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische
Straβe are also good for nightlife
and cheap eateries.
Along with its bohemian residents,
Kreuzberg is home to Berlin’s
largest Turkish community, with
one in three residents of Turkish
origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’
were invited to Berlin after cheap
East German labour was made
unavailable when the wall went up.
It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born
Mahmut Aygun invented the doner
kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still
stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The
Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and
area teems with kebab shops, and
the streets around Viktoriapark are
every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish
some of the liveliest for shops and
market spills out along the river at
cafes. The more conventional tourist
the Maybachufer.
attractions are also in the West,
The area to the West of Kottbusser and include the Jewish Museum and
Tor is slightly more upmarket. Checkpoint Charlie.

99 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 100

 Arts & Culture
Berlinische Galerie
(Berlin Gallery)
Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn:
Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26
00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8.
A vivid yellow field of seemingly
jumbled letters initially lures the eye
at the entrance of the Berlinische
Galerie: Berlin’s Museum of Modern
Art, Photography, and Architecture.
Inside the gallery almost overflows
with themes including the
secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New
Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group,
Russians in Berlin and the avante
garde.
Originally a private institution
situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau,
the gallery relocated to its new
location in 2004, designed by Huhn
Malvessi, and has flourished into
an excellent national gallery with
an international reputation. The
industrial hall holds many temporary
exhibitions to accompany its
permanent one, as well as lectures,
archives, a library, movies and music.
First Monday of the month has the
cheapest entry at only €2. There is
also reduced admission with a ticket
from the Jewish Museum on the day
of visit and the next two days.
101 Kreuzberg
Anhalter Bahnhof
Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn:
Anhalter Bahnhof.
For a fragmentary glimpse of one
of the greatest structural triumphs
of Berlin, Anhalter Bahnhof is an
essential place to pay a visit. Today
you are faced only with its imposing
façade on Askanischer Platz. Yet it is
the station’s strong visual presence
and its history that should inspire
you to visit.
Alongside the architectural and
technological grandeur of the
station, lies the horrific role that it
played in holocaust history. In total,
the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation
convoys, usually consisting of 50 or
100 people at a time. Nearly 10,000
victims were deported by means
of this station to await their fate.
Bombing in the Second World War
partially ruined the Bahnhof. After
falling into decay and disrepair,
it was sadly demolished in 1961,
leaving only its present remnants.
First built in 1839, in the relatively
early days of locomotives, the train
station was modest in size and
Arts & Culture
appearance. The 19th century, the
age of mass industry, cried for a
greater demand for passenger and
freight trains. These demands were
before long answered and in 1875
the architect Franz Schwechten
(who also designed Kaiser William
Memorial Church) received the task
of enlarging the station. Considered
a masterpiece of railroad station
construction in its day, Anhalter
Kreuzberg 102
 Arts & Culture
Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the
South” for Berliners.
Jüdisches Museum
(Jewish Museum)
www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 –
14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Tel: +49
3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm,
Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission:
€2.50-€5.
Since its inauguration in 2001, the
Jüdisches Museum has attracted over
350,000 visitors. Thousands came
even before the museum was fully
open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold
and innovative architecture. The
museum’s alien appearance demands
attention, and it is worthwhile to
take a moment before entering to
stop and appreciate this.
The museum’s exterior, an angular
external structure, resembles a
thundering lightning bolt, possibly
representing a deconstructed Star
of David. Its modern metallic facing
is at odds with the baroque facade
of the Kollegienhaus, once an
administrative building to the Court
of Justice in the 18th Century. This
now serves as the entrance to the
Jewish Museum, and connects to the
Libeskind building via a black slate
staircase which leads you to the
103 Kreuzberg
main exhibition space.
Upon descending the stairs, you are
presented with a path system of
connecting axes, symbolising three
realities in the history of German
Jews. The Axis of Emigration details
the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s,
eventually leading outside to the
Garden of Exile. The slanting floors
and narrowing walls channel the
visitor along the corridor, until you
open the heavy iron door to step
outside into the disorientating and
confusing maze of concrete pillars.
In comparison, The Axis of the
Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits
personal items of Holocaust victims,
such as letters and photographs, and
terminates at the end of the passage
with the commemorative Holocaust
Tower. The Axis of Continuity
connects the Old Building with the
main staircase, which leads up to
the vast permanent exhibition on
the second floor.
Be sure to stop half-way up the main
staircase and explore Kadishman’s
abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen
Leaves), dedicated to victims of
war and violence. The cavernous
hall is filled with 10,000 iron faces,
a look of open-mouth terror hacked
into each one. Strewn across the
floor, the faces clank together as
Arts & Culture
people walk though the room,
shattering the silence.
At the top of the staircase
the permanent exhibition
begins, showcasing 2000
years of Jewish history and
culture in Germany. Whilst
their struggle for integration
is well-documented, it is their
achievements that are the focus
of the exhibition. The museum
uses artwork, photographs,
letters and biographies of
both ordinary Jewish people
and prominent historical
figures, to fully illustrate the
impact Jewish people had on
society. The central theme of
the museum is the enormous
contribution the Jewish
population makes to Western
culture, and they are presented
as a race alive with intellect,
creativity, perseverance and
strength of faith.
The Jüdisches Museum is
an example of an architect
wanting visitors to approach
the museum with willingness
to engage with his work and
create an emotional link
between people and exhibits.
The museum is completely out
of the ordinary, and an utterly
Kreuzberg 104
 Arts & Culture
Alternative Living
Berlin’s alternative scene is vast
and runs deep within the city’s
districts. From the peculiar cabaret
to the scene of punks that frequently
doze on the lawn at Warshauer
Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and
growing culture here. For many the
attraction of the underground scene
is its secretive and elusive nature.
The remarkable old squats along the
river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer
to remain tourist free – utmost
respect must be practiced at all
times if a visit is made, after all it
is somebody’s home - and those who
are in the know, often like to keep
it top secret. This helps to maintain
the immensely mysterious air to the
scene.
The glowing history of Berlin’s squat
scene and the acquisition of such
buildings often follow a similar
story. The fall of the Berlin Wall saw
a swarm of people move from east
to west which left many buildings in
the east uninhabited. These began
to be snapped up either by artists
who desired such spaces for their
work, or by those who disliked the
capitalist culture of the west. Thus
the squatting culture in East Berlin
was born. The artistic and political
aspects still remain and may be seen
105 Kreuzberg
in the large-scale graffiti art or the
anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on
flags and buildings.
Although Kreuzberg now resembles
the - graffiti-covered - cloak of
eastern districts, it was actually
located in West Berlin. Being
surrounded by the wall on three
sides and a stone’s throw from East
Berlin, it was deemed an undesirable
location to live, although very
cheap. The low costs attracted a
population of students, immigrants
and artists, subsequently turning
Arts & Culture
Kreuzberg into an important
hub of multicultural, artistic
and intellectual development.
After the fall of the wall the
migration of artists to eastern
Berlin allowed Kreuzberg to
flourish into the vivacious
district that it is now known to
be.
Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and
often rather quirky, nightlife
means that getting lost is often
an exciting venture and can
be rewarded by a great find.
Despite this, orientating oneself
in Berlin can also be quite a
struggle at times and although
the prospect of traipsing the
tourist sites of the city with
a large group isn’t everyone’s
cup of tea, tours are a great
way to become familiar with
certain areas. An Alternative
Tour is a great introduction to
Berlin’s underground scene as
it offers an historical overview
of the numerous squats and
street graffiti art. There are a
few companies that run them
on a daily basis (Alternative
Berlin and New Berlin).
Many squats are now categorised
as housing projects as they
have contractual agreements
Kreuzberg 106
 Arts & Culture
and pay (a very minimal) rent.
They run local community projects
offering, among other things: Kino -
cinema screenings; Voku - low priced
food; and a range of workshops to
disadvantaged people in Berlin.
There are art galleries and poetry
readings in others.
The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is
a great place to get a feel for the
community-minded mentality that
runs through
much of the
underground
scene in Berlin.
There are around
60 different
projects running
there ranging
from night
clubs to circus
schools. A huge
and impressive skate park has been
built and acts as a centre piece for
the old squat. Residents allow the
public an opportunity to wander
through, grab a coffee, take pictures
of the graffiti and truly participate in
the projects they run or the parties
they throw.
So take a stroll or get a bike and
explore the streets of Kreuzberg and
Friedrichshain to see what you can
find.
Arts & Culture
The Alternative Tour
www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel:
+49 1 628 198 264. Meets every
day at 11am and 1pm, outside
Starbucks, under the TV tower at
Alexanderplatz.
The Alternative Tour was a great
way to see a whole different
side to Berlin. The first thing
to remember is the difference
between tagging and art, although
Berlin has a lot of both. The laws
here don’t require building owners
to remove graffiti, and as it is
such an expensive process, many
just don’t bother. Because of
this, Berlin’s street art is forever
changing.
An informative guide takes you
all around the city, through some
of Mitte’s back streets, past the
Raw Temple in Friedrichshain,
and especially around Kreuzberg.
Some artists are well-known, such
as El Bacho; and characters such
as Little Lucy. After the tour you
will see a whole new Berlin, and
constantly be on the lookout for
particular artists.

107 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 108

 Arts & Culture
Deutsches Technikmuseum
www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Strasse 9.
U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke. Telephone:
+49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am-
5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed
Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50.
The German Technical Museum
offers a cultural history of
Germany’s industrial technology.
Don’t be fooled by the title because
this museum offers interest in many
different areas extending from
The Deutsches Technikmuseum.
109 Kreuzberg
railways to filmography.
Formally one of Berlin’s industrial
sites dating back to 1874, which is
easily noticeable in the buildings
architecture, it has become one of
Berlin’s most appealing museums.
The layout comprises of eight
different sections, each is astounding
and unpredictable. From walking
through the textile and paper-
making machinery visitors come
face to face with life-size ships and
planes, some planes dating as far
back as 1918. From there you go on
to the rail sheds, with some of the
first trains on show.
The next building leads you through
to photo technology, the science
centre and the Vintage Car Depot.
This is a massive insight into how
beneficial the industrial revolution
was to Germany and there are plenty
of hands-on activities to take part
in. Why not climb aboard the ships
or step under giant locomotives,
watch an old fashioned picture film
or discover the art of brewing? And
to finish the tour off visitors can
walk outside into the Museum Park
where there are windmills and the
water tower.
There’s something for everyone and,
in Berlin museum style, there are
many visitor activities and guided
tours making the visit that much
more impressive and extraordinary.
Arts & Culture
Schwules Museum
w w w. s c h w u l e s m u s e u m . d e .
Mehringdamm 61. U-Bahn:
Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172.
Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs.
Admission €5, concessions €3.
The only museum in the world
dedicated to the homosexual
lifestyle, this little museum plays
a big part in chronicling nearly
two centuries of Gay history and
social change. The museum houses
a remarkable collection of photos,
paintings and other assorted art
work about Gay life in Germany.
Tracing the gradual acceptance
of the homosexual existence with
its many trials and tribulations in
Europe, there is a big focus on Berlin
during the World Wars. The ground
floor allows for temporary exhibits,
presenting the work of famous Gay
Germans such as Herbert List and
other local Gay artists.
Comprehensive and informative
guides are available in many
languages to assist in your visit and
the volunteer staff are both helpful
and friendly.
Kreuzberg 110
 Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Exploring an Urban must cross two busy streets and pass bronze nudes reclining in
Sculpture Garden under the U-Bahn tracks. the traffic median. Follow
the concrete footpath
U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. The experience of visiting the
across the street toward
Menschenlandschaft is punctuated
Berlin, famously described as ‘poor the garden’s centrepiece,
by urban noise – trains thundering
but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public Turkish sculptor Mehmet
above and traffic roaring nearby.
art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’ Aksoy’s 1987 work
But instead of being an unwelcome
sculpture to the provocative work of Arbeitsmigration.
distraction, this setting actually
street artists such as Emerging from the grass
enhances the meaning
Alias and El Bocho, like alabaster totems,
of the work. The
art is impossible to Aksoy’s sculpture conveys
sculpture garden
avoid in this city. stylized and sometimes
was commissioned
Visitors are sure to disturbing human forms:
to address the
encounter plenty of dislocated body parts,
immigrant experience
impressive work even isolated figures, and
in Kreuzberg, a
if they never set foot huddled masses striving to
neighbourhood which
in a museum. ‘escape’ from the marble.
has absorbed an
One of Berlin’s most enormous immigrant Continuing across the
compelling examples population, while street toward the river,
of public art is the more recently look for several more
Menschenlandschaft, struggling with the works of sculpture
a diverse collection growing pains of scattered throughout
of sculpture that gentrification. The the park. Perhaps the
sprawls from a placement of these most distinctive is Rudolf
leafy pocket park art pieces, in the Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a
near Schlesisches ‘leftover’ space stainless steel structure
Tor station toward the River Spree. surrounding a major transit hub, which resembles an
Don’t expect to find much respite encourages the viewer to consider enormous bent paper clip.
here from the grit and gristle of the extent to which immigrants are At the end of this sculpture
Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden integrated into – or isolated from – safari on the south bank of
is unabashedly urban. In fact, to the social and economic fabric of the the Spree, sightseers are
walk the length of this ‘human city. rewarded with a perfect
landscape,’ which features work by view of the magnificent
Walking east along Schlesisches
seven different sculptors, visitors Oberbaumbrücke.
Strasse, look for two voluptuous

111 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 112

 Shopping
NGBK
www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25.
U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel:
+49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm,
Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm.
Wander the streets of Kreuzberg
and you are likely to stumble across
many individual art exhibits and
bookstores; visit NGBK and you will
experience a unique combination
of both. The NGBK bookstore is
well-stocked in a number of genres,
particularly the Arts, with many
titles available in English. Berlin
receives special attention with a
vast selection of books covering all
aspects of the city.
The relaxed and open atmosphere
encourages those browsing to pick
a stool and read at leisure. To the
rear of the store, free entry to the
113 Kreuzberg
adjacent NGBK exhibition space
awaits. Here, through the medium
of visual art, questions and issues of
social importance are depicted and
explored. Exhibits change throughout
the year and are often supplemented
by discussions, lectures and other
events.
Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010
include: Shared. Divided. United,
which aims to draw comparison
between the divisive experiences of
Germany and Korea; and Amerikana,
documenting the mythology of US
society and the response of US artists
to such myths.
The NGBK bookstore alone warrants
a visit, but time things correctly
and you may be fortunate enough to
inject some art into your shopping
trip.
Shopping
Box Off Berlin
w w w. b o x o f f b e r l i n . d e .
Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn:
Kochstraβe. Tel: +49 (0) 30 44
70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am.
Sidle away from the tacky
tourist shops surrounding
Checkpoint Charlie and
discover a refreshingly
different approach to souvenir
shopping. Box Off Berlin offers
a variety of quality souvenirs
created by local designers.
Think more cutting-edge
design, less souvenir shot glass.
Treat yourself to a fashionable
Berlin print, a unique tote or
a glossy hardback on Berlin
street art.
Fair trade and
environmentalism are key
concepts, so enjoy a fair trade
coffee from the coffee bar as
you browse the store and its
compact contemporary art
gallery.
Prices and products are wide
ranging and generally reflect
the high quality and design of
each item. For those on a tight
budget, key rings and pens are
reasonably priced at under €5.
Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff
Kreuzberg 114
 Food & Drink
Modern Graphics
w w w. m o d e r n - g r a p h i c s . d e .
Oranienstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer
Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49
6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat
10am-7pm.
This shop is a haven for any fan of
graphic novels, comics or other cult
merchandise. It contains a huge
selection of each with a more than
reasonably-sized section dedicated
to novels in the English language.
The staff are helpful, knowledgeable
and, most importantly, incredibly
enthusiastic about the material they
sell.
Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap
Mehringdamm 32.
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.
Having a several-metre long queue
may be normal for a kebab shop at
four in the morning on a week night,
in an area located next to a street
full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but
when there’s a queue that big the
whole day long...one wonders what
must be so special about the food
115 Kreuzberg
that’s being served.
Staying in the constantly long line at
Mustafa’s is certainly worth the wait
as it serves very
possibly the best
kebabs in Berlin.
The choice at
Mustafa’s is very
simple: a kebab;
dürüm kebab
(in a wrap); a
vegetarian or
a vegetarian
dürüm. All of the
choices include
deep-fried vegetables, an amazing
selection of salad and best of all
crumbled cheese to top it off. The
meat kebabs include sliced chicken
döner from the large rotating spit.
What is perhaps so surprising about
Mustafa’s is that it’s little more
than a fixed hut on the pavement,
which can hardly fit the two men
who serve up the food all day long.
There is no seating and only a large
wooden table to the side where you
can stand and eat. This minimalism
is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm.
To top off the effect, Middle Eastern
music blares from the hut all day, so
you really feel like you’re getting a
full Eastern experience.
Food & Drink
Hakata sushi restaurant Belegschaft
Oranienstrasse. U-Bahn: Görlitzer w w w. d i e b e l e g s c h a f t . d e .
bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor. Closed Zimmerstraβe 23. U-Bahn:
Mondays. Price: €0-5. Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254
Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am-
This sushi restaurant truly is a must
7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3-
for any fan of Japanese cuisine.
8.
It may not visually stand out in
comparison with the various other Amongst the hustle and bustle
more colourful sushi restaurants in surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies
the neighbourhood (and there are a calm oasis in Belegschaft.
several), but what it lacks in visual
This “organic quick food” café
splendour it more than makes up
features a range of soups,
for in superb taste. Herein lies this
sandwiches and daily specials at
establishment’s crowning glory.
reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal
The orders are taken on notes in the café’s fresh, modern interior
you write yourself and are served or while people watching outside.
without dialogue. Indeed, you may
find that Japanese can prove to
be more effective than German if
you are blessed with such language
skills. The food orders will also take
a longtime to finally emerge at your
table, which can be almost torturous
as you watch it being meticulously
made only a few feet away. Fear
not, however, for this is small price
to pay – along with the pleasingly
small bill - for truly authentic and
delicious sushi in Kreuzberg.
There is a wide range of dishes on
offer along with a satisfying number
of vegetarian options included in the
fray. Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.
Kreuzberg 116
 Food & Drink Food & Drink
Curry 36 if you can’t get enough of a fix you Rundum Mehrzweckcafe guarantee you
can even buy the sausages to take another trip
www.curry36.de Mehringdamm 36. home vacuum-packed. www.cafe-rundum.de. Stresemanstr back for more!
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 302 37.U-Bahn: Mockernbruke or
51 73 68. Mon- You don’t have to ask the customers Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter On a nice summer
Sun 9am-5am. twice if they enjoy it, Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30 day you can bask
€0-5. standing shoulder to 53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat- in the sun in the
shoulder around tables Sun 10am-8pm. outdoor area
A big fat German some wolf their sausages or alternatively
sausage with down, while others Hidden amongst towering concrete enjoy your meal
curry sprinkled seems to let the taste desolate buildings on this
all over, and linger before forking quiet street in Kreuzberg,
ketchup on the next piece. Two Rundum Mehrzweckercafe
top. One bite Currywurst with fries is a contemporary,
and your mouth will set you back €4.30 minimalistic yet charming
will sizzle with or 2 Currywurst with a café serving generously
the contrasting bread roll costs €3.20. sized meals that
f l a v o u r s . A boulette (a German burst with flavour and
Another bite and specialty of herbed freshness.
you’re hooked mince meat, but nicer Highly recommended
on Currywurst. than a hamburger) with are the daily specials,
The lines move curry costs €1.50. which are generously
fast as sausages,
portioned for the price, Mountains of pasta at Rundum.
fries and drinks
with freshly made pasta
are dished out indoors whilst observing strange
with parmesan, walnuts and basil
with German abstract canvases of nature and
pesto (fantastic for vegetarians),
efficiency. subtle nudity. Service is friendly and
succulent pork and mixed greens or
A delicacy that other places a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup the staff helpful, so whether you
have tried to re-invent, Curry as just a few tasty examples. want to enquire about a dish or to
36 is a family-owned business get directions to the nearest station
There is also a good selection of
that began as a food cart they are more than happy to help!
baguette fillings and with prices
and expanded over 30 years As Rundum say themselves this really
starting from €3.90 you will be
into a popular place to go for is the place to “eat, drink, chat,
spoilt for choice. The homemade
Currywurst. The food is fresh, relax and enjoy.”
desserts are worth a try, especially
the ketchup is homemade, and
the blueberry muffin, which will

117 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 118

 Food & Drink Nightlife
Max und Moritz to your liking here. Its generous
portions, welcoming atmosphere
w w w. m a x u n d m o r i t z b e r l i n . d e . and wonderful food make this Berlin
Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069 institution a must. The prices may
515 911. Open daily from 6pm. be a little high for the more budget-
Price: €10-15. conscious traveller with the more
A welcome break from the expensive dishes running up to €14.
predominantly Turkish food found in However there are less expensive
this part of the city, Max und Moritz meals of offer from around €8.50
provides traditional German cuisine. and the setting and atmosphere is
It is famous for cooking up Berliner worth the little extra.
dishes in an authentic and relaxing The restaurant can get quite busy at
setting. times, a testament to the quality of
There is an impressive range of the food, so phone ahead to reserve Badeschiff
these satisfying and hearty dishes. a table or go earlier in the evening
From the traditional, time-honoured to avoid disappointment or a lengthy www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn:
Berliner Eisbein, a pickled pig foot wait. Treptower Park. Bus 265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open from 8am. Admission
with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to €3. Drinks: €3-10.
Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced Badeschiff is Berlin’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in the
beef stew served sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days.
with salad
and dumpling Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river
noodles. The venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the
menu certainly river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim
leans more and horse-around in a floating pool docked on the river.
towards the Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment
carnivorous in takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of
nature however various description for when the beers have given you some tipsy munchies.
there are also a
few vegetarian Badeschiff is a must for any summer Berlin trip. Even if you’re just around for a
dishes on offer. long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and
before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when Berliners
Whatever your take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however,
taste, you will spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fill up fast so either get there
find something early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment.

119 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 120

 Nightlife Nightlife
Kiki Blofeld “boathouse” as it is known, which SchwuZ Parties rotate so that they become
consists of a platform raised above monthly events for the clubbing
www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker the river on stilts. The story of this www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61. calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a
Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine. underground den is quite fascinating U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 night for the ladies; Madonnamania,
S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737 - it was where the East German police 30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7 where the name says it all; and listen
828 286. docked their boats when travelling entry, €5 before midnight. to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe
Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of across the river to the West. The Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and at Bump! Check their website for
Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian cat- platform is a U-shape and the boats dance the night away at SchwuZ. more events set to make your body
stroking evil villain and arch-nemesis would drive into the middle to dock. This club is a one-stop nightlife rock.
of James Bond, Instead of GDR hotspot which A good
is the patron of police boats, these welcomes all, night out is
the garden club days a floating located within P o p k i c k e r,
named in her inflatable octopus the Schwulen where a mix
honour. So the decorates the Zentrum (Gay of pop and
story goes of this water. Centre) in sport – fussball
bank-side bar and Downstairs has a Kreuzberg. Enter and pingpong
nightclub located fully stocked bar via Café Melitta especially –
on the Spree as well, serving Sundstrom, the are thrown
River. beers for around destination to in for good
€3. The music is chill out with measure. The
Covered in sand
techno/house, and pre-drinks and crowd spices
and with plenty
in true Berlin style chat in-between up their
of places to hang
the club stays open throwing shapes trendy dress
out, this Kikis
into the next day on the dance code with a
really is big, with
on weekends. floor. sports theme
enough space to
fit a lot of mini- With three DJ rooms this venue including football shirts and vest
The clientele of
beach parties. Scattered across the provides clubbers with choice and tops. The music in the main DJ room
Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists
outside area are pool- and ping-pong change without having to venture has a familiar feel with the beats of
know of it and it isn’t included
tables as well as an area for making beyond its very own walls. The commercial and global pop vibrating
in many guide books. The vibe is
bonfires. Next to the upstairs bar is variety extends to an eclectic range their rhythms through your body and
certainly that of the well-kept secret
a raised lounging area complete with of themed dance parties hosted soul.
- a hidden paradise complete with an
beach chairs. underground lair with sinister past - throughout the month, ranging Make a calendar date and mix it up at
Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly from punk to pop, and embracing SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed.
The best part about this place is
approve. everything in-between. Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.
the downstairs dance floor, the

121 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 122

Accommodation
BaxPax Kreuzberg
w w w. b a x p a x - k r e u z b e r g . d e .
Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn:
Gölitzer Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3 069 518
322.
Prices:
Dorm Rooms: €12.
Double Room with ensuite: €25
If you like places with character
then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax
Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere
with a bar/cafe area close to
reception along with lots of tourist
information and advice including
previous guests views, suggestions
and advice on the ‘word of mouth’
board.
The whole hostel is very colourful
and all the dorms are large, fully-
furnished and are decorated with
Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg.
123 Kreuzberg
a different culture theme giving
that added sense of a lively fun
atmosphere. There are two huge
common areas, shared/private
bathrooms and kitchen facilities
with a sun terrace.
The hostel is located on the main
street Skalitzer Strasse, where there
are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and
restaurants to suit all tastes. It is
also close to Warschauer Strasse,
Oranienburger Strasse and many
monuments such as the Jüdisches
Museum and Checkpoint Charlie.
· Lockers and safe available
· Internet access
· Breakfast buffet for €5.20
· Bike hire
3 Little Pigs Hostel
w w w. t h r e e - l i t t l e - p i g s . d e .
Stresemannstrasse 66.
Anhalter Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3032 662
955. 24-hour reception.
Dorms: (low/high season prices)
8 bed: €13/15
6 bed: €14/16
Private double room: €31/32
Everyone knows the story of the
Three Little Pigs – how the brick
house protected them from the big
bad wolf. This hostel, also made
S-Bahn:
of brick, acts as a sanctuary for
travellers everywhere.
The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic
art deco building, built in 1910, with
lots of old-fashioned features set
in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of
Berlin’s most popular social districts.
The hostel is clean, bright, colourful
and tidy throughout and is in great
condition for the age of the building.
Accommodation
There are many communal areas
throughout as well as the bar and
beer garden. There is a relaxing,
quiet atmosphere and yet it is
close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist
attractions and nightlife.
This hostel has all the essentials
for students and backpackers, from
free guided city tours to the pool
table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer.
The location is walking distance
to some of Berlin’s major tourist
sights, such as Brandenburger Tor
and Checkpoint Charlie, as well
as cafes, bars, restaurants and the
local supermarket.
The friendly staff are enthusiastic
to help out with any questions or
queries you have on what to do (and
not to do) in Berlin plus heaps of
tourist leaflets, maps, and popular
places on hand at reception.
· Bed linen: €2.50 obligatory
· Internet access
· Kitchen
· Parking
· Bike rental, €12 per day
· Breakfast, €5 all you can eat
Meininger Hostel Berlin
Hallesches Ufer
w w w. m e i n i n g e r- h o s t e l s . c o m .
Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn:
Kreuzberg 124
 Accommodation
Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke.
Tel: +49 3 066 636 100.
Prices:
Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€
Multi-bed room (triple,
twin, single) from 26€
to 60€.
This newly refurbished
hostel is perfect for
students who love
to party! Meininger
Hostels have two
hostels in Berlin plus
more around Germany
and London. One good
thing about chain
hostels is they tend
to meet a certain
living standard and
this particular hostel
certainly meets that.
The hostel has recently been
refurbished complete with clothes
storage space, TV, bathroom, linen
and towels. There are more than 300
beds and all rooms are cleaned daily.
Female only rooms are available for
the same charge as a standard room.
Located on the ground floor is the
newly refurbished bar complete with
pool table, comfy couches, TV and
daily discount bar offers. Although
downstairs is the party area it is
125 Kreuzberg
separated from upstairs, which has
a more chilled atmosphere. Located
on the top floor is a large breakfast
room and outside balcony terrace
area where you can see a fantastic
view of the Kreuzberg area.
The hostel is close to cafes and
restaurants and for those on a budget
€4 Pizza, located round the corner of
the hostel, is highly recommended.
What’s more the hostel offers free
walking tours and is close to the Sony
Centre, Deutches Technik Museum
and Topography of Terrors.
• Laundry €5
• Luggage Storage
• Internet and free WIFI
Accommodation
• Breakfast Buffet €4 Located in one of the Turkish
communities in Berlin, this hostel is
Riverside Lodge in a perfect place for those wanting
w w w. r i v e r s i d e - l o d g e . d e . to stay elsewhere from the city
Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn: centre and enjoy the cultural Berlin
Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515 Turkish atmosphere.
510. · Internet €2 for the day
· Breakfast for € 4.00.
Prices: · Complimentary tea and coffee
Dorm rooms €21. are available at all times.
Double rooms €26.
This little charming hostel is perfect
for those who want a place to chill
from the busy atmosphere. Travellers
are close to the action and can get
a good night’s sleep. The hostel,
although small, is modern, bright and
tidy with plenty of space, even with
the giant economy-sized lockers and
the funky canoe in the large dorm.
This hostel consists of one four-bed
dorm, one six-bed dorm and one
double room in the hostel plus three
double rooms next door, which are
apartment style flats.
The hostel has all the basics with a
kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near
to cafes, restaurants, shops and the
huge Turkish market on Maybachufer
Straβe every Tuesday and Friday.
The markets are definitely worth a
visit and there are so many different
stalls from traditional Turkish meals
and sweets to clothes and jewellery.
Kreuzberg 126
Charlottenburg Information

During the glory days of the GDR, is another worthwhile site to check
Charlottenburg was a pocket of West out in Charlottenburg. Heavily
Berlin where culture flourished. bombed during World War II, the
Surrounded by the Berlin Wall, the church was left as it was and is now
area was a protected sanctuary an antiwar memorial and a constant
with exceptional nightlife, cafés, reminder of the destruction of the
cinemas and a strong community of war. The church was constructed in
artists, actors, and writers. 1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now
tourists can visit the church and view
After the fall of the wall, these
a collection of photographs and an
creative communities moved East
explanation of the church’s history.
to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and
Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg Many museums are also located in
lost its edge. Now this area Charlottenburg, such as the Museum
maintains its former glamour with für Fotografie that chronicles the life
Kufürstendamm, locally known as and work of Berlin’s internationally
Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of acclaimed photographer, Helmut
the East, lined with ritzy department Newton, and the Erotik Museum,
stores and boutiques for the wealthy for those looking for something a
to splash out whilst on holiday in little different when it comes to
Berlin. Charlottenburg is ideal for museums.
those looking for a bit of quiet in the
constant hustle and bustle of a city
that never seems to sleep.
Charlottenburg’s main attraction is
Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque
palace located 3km north of Zoo
Station. The palace was modelled
after Versailles and its former
residents include King Friedrich I,
and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens
are perfect for wandering on a sunny
day.
Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche

127 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg

128
Arts & Culture
Schloss Charlottenburg
Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn:
Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn:
Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner-
Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun
10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14.
Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has
something for everyone. There is
a healthy dose of history for those
primarily interested in the whys and
wherefores of this beautiful building,
for art and architecture buffs there
is a huge amount to see in this
Baroque masterpiece, while there is
lots of human interest if you just like
a good story.
Schloss Charlottenburg, originally
called Lietzenburg, was first
129 Charlottenburg
Arts & Culture
commissioned separate exhibitions, each priced was largely impossible. These rooms
in 1699 by the separately (though a Day Ticket can now contain paintings and furniture
Electress of be bought which incorporates all giving a representation of the
Brandenburg three). thoughts and morals of the time.
Sophie Charlotte.
The central exhibition here is the The personalities of the two Queens
After her death,
Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s are presented through these rooms in
the building was
original building and Friedrich’s a very lively way, helped by the use
completed and
extension. Downstairs, the rooms of an audioguide, which is included in
extended under
are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s the entrance price. A must-see is the
the orders of her
day while the upper floor is kept New Wing, which houses the State
husband, then
(as much as possible) to how Queen Apartments of Kings Friedrich the
King of Prussia,
Elizabeth would have known it. Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t
Friedrich I, and
Many of the upstairs rooms were forget to enjoy the nature - take a
re-named in
damaged by bombing meaning that stroll around the beautiful gardens
her honour. This
reconstruction in their original form and lakes, or even take a picnic.
relatively small
palace in a minor town outside Berlin
became the summer residence and
stately home of choice of many of the
later Hohenzollerns, and still bears
the marks of many of their lives and
personalities.
This historic site is of great importance
for those interested in the growth
of one of Europe’s greatest royal
houses. There is special emphasis
here on the women in this dynasty,
particularly Sophie Charlotte herself
and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King
Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom
spent much time and energy on this
building.
For the modern visitor, there is much
to see. The site itself is in fact three
Charlottenburg
130
Arts & Culture
Museum für Fotografie
(Museum of Photography)
www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn:
Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266
3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur
10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free:
Thursdays after 6pm.
One of history’s most daring and
notorious photographers, Berlin-
born Helmut Newton had a distinct
risqué style; capturing the dramatic
and often dangerous side of beauty.
Over 1,000 works from Newton
are permanently on display at
the Museum of Photography. The
collection of black and white photos,
often focusing on nude women,
explores the politically incorrect
sexual nature of the human species
131 Charlottenburg
which noticeably influenced society’s
perspective on fashion, women and
portraiture.
Following Newton’s fatal car crash in
October 2004, shortly after donating
more than 1000 of his works to the
museum, the public exhibition serves
to be a mesh of both bereavement
and celebration; for the art and man
who was Helmut Newton.
On the ground floor of the museum
is a rare showcase called “Private
Property” which delves into the
life of the photographer himself. A
replication of his Monte Carlo study,
family photos, and a collection of
letters between Newton and other
prominent members of society,
including Margaret Thatcher, pay
homage to Newton’s work and life.
The eerie collection is a perfect
introduction to the Museum itself as
the display reveals a prudent quality
to Newton’s extensive catalogue of
often misinterpreted pieces.
Situated on the first floor and probably
the most highly regarded display
is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”,
which displays 394 black and white
photographs. Originally the contents
of a giant book, once limited to
the coffee tables of a well-heeled
few, the exhibit commemorates
the 10th anniversary of the book’s
publication. Amongst the collection
are rare portraits of the likes of David
Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner
Fassbinder and Andy Warhol.
Complimenting Newton’s works is an
exhibition entitled “Three Boys from
Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz
and Just Loomis, three friends of
Newton’s which he worked alongside
and mentored, have 25 pieces of
their collections on display. Selected
by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s
wife, the cinematic and raw style
of the collections share similar
undertones to a lot of Newton’s
work.
Together the collaborated display
makes for an impressive journey
into the eyes of one of the world’s
most controversial and leading
photographers. Although often
quite confronting and uncensored,
the photographs invite the viewer
to push past the nude subjects and
explore the world around the girl
and the vision of Newton himself.
The extensive collection tastefully
captures the triumph of desire and
the failure of reality rarely seen in
such an audacious and mischievous
manner, which is well worth a visit
for those that search beyond a bare
glance.
Arts & Culture
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee
www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.
de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:
Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun
9am-5pm. Price: Free.
The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is
a small memorial in the north of
Charlottenburg, dedicated to the
memory of those executed under the
Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a
prison, first built in 1868 to house
convicts with short-term sentences.
It was also where some of the most
famous opponents of Nazi Germany,
including Klaus von Stauffenberg,
were imprisoned and executed. For
fans of the film Valkyrie this site,
which was not allowed to be used
as a location due to the controversy
surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion,
may be of special interest.
The memorial itself is embodied by a
shrine. In the main room, which still
contains the hooks in the wall from
where prisoners were hanged, several
wreaths and flags mark the place
where many atrocities occurred. In
addition to this chilling reminder of
the reality of the prison’s history,
there is a small but informative
exhibition on the history of the prison
and the lives of its more prominent
victims. However for a site with
Charlottenburg
132
Arts & Culture
such an important history, there is
relatively little else to see.
In a Berlin which is full of memorial
after memorial to the victims of
Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small
exhibition may seem like one too
many for the average visitor. The
distance from the centre of Berlin
may also be troublesome – the
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located
at least a kilometre from the nearest
station, though there is a bus that
stops about a 5 minute walk away,
and you need to walk through an
industrial estate to get there.
In many ways though, this remoteness
adds to the atmosphere perhaps
helping one to understand the
isolation of the condemned prisoners.
Although this memorial is small,
it is very well laid out and gives a
disquieting exposition of the terrible
events that took place here.
133 Charlottenburg
Story of Berlin
www.story-of-berlin.de.
Kurfürstendamm 207-208. U-Bahn:
Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720
100. Price: €8-10.
As the Story of Berlin goes, “The only
tradition this city will accept is that
it does not have a tradition”. This
statement is no better proven than
in this eclectic Berlin sensation.
Situated on classy Kufürstendamm,
inside a shopping centre, the Story of
Berlin museum makes no pretence of
being overly-scholarly or intellectual.
Instead the museum is very accessible
to all.
Without assuming that the visitor has
any prior knowledge, the exhibition
leads through a quick-fire tour of
Berlin’s history, from 1237-1930,
establishing the scene for later, much
more familiar, events.
A lot of different media are used to
create the feeling of moving through
time; sound effects, videos and life-
size models in particular help the
visitor to feel that they are actually
there. Moving forward into the Nazi
period (descending down an eerily lit
narrow staircase), these effects only
become more prominent.
The sound of breaking glass is
Arts & Culture
used to establish the presence of together in this way indicates how
Kristallnacht and, almost before much this city has led the world in so
realising, the visitor walks over many areas, yet somehow it remains
real book spines encased within the utterly unique.
floor, symbolising the infamous Book
Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles
of rubble to evoke post-war Berlin
may seem a little heavy-handed
and melodramatic to some, but the
decorated living rooms of both East
and West offer interesting points of
comparison.
Be warned that there is a lot to read
and take in at once. In addition to
this no-senses-bared journey through
time, there is also the chance to tour
one of West Berlin’s largest nuclear
bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of
over 3,200 people this bunker was
never used for its intended purpose,
but the site remains almost exactly
as it was in the 1970s. Informed
tour guides give a fascinating insight
into how life in the bunker might
have been like had the bomb ever
dropped.
The sheer variety of topics covered
by this large museum would almost
defy belief, if they were not all
linked by their relationship to the
city of Berlin.
This only goes to show how much
depth and diversity Berlin itself
has. Seeing all of Berlin’s history
Charlottenburg 134
Arts & Culture
Käthe Kollwitz Museum
www.kaethe-kollwitz.de.
Fasanenstaβe 24. U-Bahn:
Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825
210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price:
€2.50-5.
Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist
working in the first half of the 20th
century. Unusually for
a female artist, she
was highly successful
and influential in her
own lifetime. She
was also a dedicated
socialist and, having
lost both her son
and her grandson in
World War One and
Two respectively, was
defiantly anti-war.
These convictions
made her a target
for the Nazis, who
removed her from a
prestigious position at
the Academy of Art and banned all
exhibitions of her work from 1937
on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly
before the end of the war.
Pacifist, socialist and maternal
themes are a recurrent feature of
her work, exemplified by famous
prints such as the Memorial to Karl
135 Charlottenburg
Arts & Culture
Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924),
and the Krieg series of woodcuts
(1922/23).
Her work is highly politicised and
emotive. It is often bleak, executed
almost entirely in monochrome,
and displaying an empathy with
the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz
museum houses a
collection of drawings,
prints and sculptures
over four floors, and you
can see more sculptures
in the garden. The
museum also contains
a collection of self-
portraits from 1888 –
1938.
Kollwitz’ significance
can be seen all over
Berlin: the central
square in Prenzlauer
Berg, where the
artist lived, is named
Kollwitzplatz and
contains a sculpture of her. An
enlarged copy of one of her most
famous works, the sculpture Mother
with Dead Son, is the focal point of
the war memorial Neue Wache on
Unter den Linden. Her importance
to the culture of the city is clear,
making a trip to this small museum
a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s
Charlottenburg
136
Arts & Culture
Olympiastadion
Olympische Platz 3.
U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn:
Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688
100. Closed during sporting events.
Price: €3-4, Family: €8.
Going to watch Hertha Berlin play
at the Olympiastadion is more than
just seeing a football match. The
iconic stadium provides a great site
for football, and entry through the
Olympic rings gives a sense of how
history and sport have come to mix.
Once inside the home support is
History...
immediately recognisable, mainly
dominating one area of the ground
with customary continental flag
waving and group jumping.
The atmosphere is good especially
when the home fans decide to get
the drums and chants going. However
this can be slightly lost, due to its
large capacity, as the stadium only
sells out when the big teams arrive
in town.
This though does have the advantage
of tickets often being readily available
Arts & Culture
The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in
world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by
Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk
underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time
but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided
to give Berlin the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to
build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one.
The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals
which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race
policy. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime example of the neo-
classical architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features
such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war
the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha
Berlin played there and in 1974 it played host to some World Cup games.
After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a state-
of-the-art roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World
Cup matches in 2006, including the final; and the 2009 World Athletics
Championships.

with a decent price range to choose

from, although it is probably best to
aim for a mid-range ticket.
The team itself is a founding
member of the German FA and their
performances have picked up in
recent seasons but they still have
not reached the illustrious heights of
other German teams such as Bayern
Munich.

137 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg

138
 Food & Drink
Aroma
www.cafe-aroma.de. Kantstrasse 35.
U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf Strasse. Tel:
+49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm-
3am. Price: €3-15.
On the corner of Kantstrasse
and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a
Cantonese style restaurant, and one
of the bigger and older establishments
in Berlin’s modest Chinatown. Aroma
is one of the few places in Berlin that
serves authentic dim-sum.
Though it can get quite busy around
noon, and on weekends, it is a nice
and relaxing place to have a late
lunch. The German/Chinese speaking
staff are quick to serve and though
the menus are scarce of any English,
the colourful pictures make it much
easier to pick your meal.
139 Charlottenburg
Lon-Men’s Noodle House
Kantstrasse 33. U-Bahn Wilmersdorf
Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 519 678. Mon-
Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8.
Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a family-
run Taiwanese eatery that serves
some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle
dishes. This small, simplistically
decorated restaurant resembles
one you would find on the streets of
Taiwan. Not to be confused by the
name, you can order dishes aside
from noodles.
Although they offer a number of
rice entrees, spring rolls, and other
appetizers, the dish to try is the
beef noodle soup. This comes with
a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn
noodles and carefully seasoned
soup. It is topped with savoury slices
of masterfully marinated beef,
and sprinkled with tangy, pickled
vegetables.
The meals come in two sizes: €4
for a small bowl (typical meal
sized), or €8 for a large one (for the
hearty traveller). This little piece of
Taiwan in Berlin is definitely worth
a visit, and though there are some
differences from the meals served
over 5000 miles away, they are a
close second best.
Food & Drink
Der Kuchenladen
w w w. d e r - k u c h e n l a d e n . d e .
Kantstrasse 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf
Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue-
Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm.
Price: €2-5.
Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint
cake shop called Der Kuchenladen
(literally, the cakeshop). The brightly
coloured wallpaper catches the
eyes and draws you in, as do the
chandeliers adorned with crystal
ornaments. Upon walking in, you are
immediately greeted by the aroma of
baking chocolate.
Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a
storybook sweets shop. The room is
lined with a myriad of freshly baked
cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The
small, but well-equipped tables look
fit for a tea party.
Their selections of cakes are changed
daily, and range from a simple piece
of cheesecake to the more exotic
Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable
cake made with rice, pistachios,
cherries, and topped with a light
layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries
are fairly priced, with the generous
portions big enough for two.
Charlottenburg
140
Accommodation Accommodation

Pension Peters budget than the average traveller.

Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles
www.pension-peters-berlin.de. are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros,
Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn: quads are 105 euros, and five beds
Savignyplatz. Tel: +49 303 122 278. are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is
included in the price.
The pension was opened in the 1930s
and has been run by the same family
for the last fourteen years. It has
brand new facilities and a simple
and artistic design that fits perfectly
with the pension’s sleek atmosphere.
Although the pension is on a busy
street, most rooms surround a
courtyard set back from the main
road, so there is not much of a
problem with noise. The quad rooms
are ideal for groups because if four
people split the price, the cost ends
up being comparable to a hostel, and
groups do not have to share their
bedroom or bathroom.
The pension is walking distance
to many cafés, restaurants and
Price: shops, so travellers will be spoilt
Singles: from €58 for choice when trying to decide
Doubles: €79-85 where to get a meal, or where to go
Triples: €95 shopping. The main shopping street,
Quads: €105 Kurfurstendamm, is a five to ten
minute walk away from the pension.
Located just aound the corner from
Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is * Free wi-fi
perfect for groups of travellers on a * Breakfast buffet included
budget or couples with a little looser * Includes shower, toilet, TV.

141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg

142
 Schöneburg Information

Schöneberg is now one of the more is false. In fact, Berliners had such
gentrified areas of Berlin, but it has high regard for him after the speech
a surprisingly radical past. Around that, the day after his assassination,
Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is the square outside the Rathaus was
the city’s oldest gay quarter, and renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For
Schöneberg is still home to the cafes and bars try the area around
largest gay community in Berlin. Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also
Nollendorfplatz is the scene of a busy Saturday market.
much of the nightlife, and inside the
U-Bahn station there is a memorial
to homosexuals murdered by the
Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of
fascism in pre-war Berlin are vividly
described in Christopher Isherwood’s
Berlin Stories, which are based on
his experiences living at Nollendorf
Straβe 17.
Other famous former residents of the
borough include David Bowie and Iggy
Pop, who rented a flat at Hauptstraβe
155 in the late seventies. Sixties
chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did
Marlene Dietrich who is now buried
in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery.
Fans of famous gravestones can also
visit the final resting place of the
Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus-
Kirchhof.
The area’s best known sight is
Rathaus Schöneberg where John F
Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin
ein Berliner’ speech in 1963. The
well-known story that the president
actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’

143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144

 Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus Botanical Gardens sub-tropical and desert climatic

zones. After you’ve walked through
Schöneberg www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise- the extensive displays of cacti, visit
John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn: Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer the carnivorous plant section.
Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am-
9pm in summer. Price: €2-5. The orchid exhibit and the tropical
9am – 4pm.
dome are a must.
This small but perfectly formed Being the second You may also be
antiques haven is a cut above largest botanical lucky to spot an
Berlin’s numerous other flea garden in the unsuspecting
markets. The goods on offer world this beautiful gecko or one
are of high quality and there is reserve allows for of the green
much to choose from. endless wanderings woodpeckers that
and musings while were introduced
In front of the impressive offering a haven
Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls to create a more
from Berlin’s nearby authentic and
overflow with furniture, arts and urban landscape.
crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl stable ecosystem.
records, books and jewellery. It boasts 126 acres The park’s museum
of lawns, forests and consolidates many
Whilst others may come away lakes and is home
from Moritzplatz with a pair aspects of the
to 22,000 species garden itself, and
of tie-dyed Harem pants, at of flora nurtured
Schöneberg visitors barter for enables visitors to
in the many see the gardens
Art Deco chandeliers, mink different gardens
stoles, antique books and as they are in
and habitats of the different seasons.
silverware. park. There are exhibits that explore the
Prices start out high, given Amongst the tall trees and idyllic different scientific plant structures
the nature of what’s on offer, lakes there is an elegant Italian and others that focus more on the
but haggling is both the norm garden, a medicinal plant garden, complex relationship between plants
and expected. Books written and a section where you can handle and culture.
in English are also widely unusually shaped and scented
available, which sell for around So whether a nature buff, a tree-
varieties of plant and flower – the hugging hippy or just in need of an
€3 each. There are bargains fragrance and touch garden.
to be had if you are ready and escape this is something that should
willing to search. The striking bio domes house tropical, not be missed.

145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146

 Shopping
KaDeWe
www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe
21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz.
Tel: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am-
8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am-
8pm.
For those in need of some high-
end retail therapy, this seven floor
“department store of the West” holds
claim to being the second largest in
Europe.
As expected from somewhere bearing
such an accolade, the assortment of
goods on sale is vast, ranging from
147 Schöneberg
evening and cocktail fashion to
accessories for dogs.
If the enormity of this Berlin
establishment seems overwhelming,
then direct your energy towards the
gastronomic glory of the sixth-floor
food hall. The incredible array of fine
foods and wines on offer cannot fail
to impress.
Treat yourself to some quality
German confectionary or limited
edition designer mineral water as you
pass through. Alternatively, linger
for longer and enjoy an informal
meal from one of the many eateries
nestled amongst the food and drink
counters.
The grandeur of the designer-
lined “Luxury Boulevard” is equally
worth perusing. Whether or not you
have the appropriate-sized wallet
to tackle this Berlin institution,
KaDeWe is certainly worth any
ardent shopper’s time.
Route 66
http://route66diner.de. Pariser
Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. Tel:
+49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am-
2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am.
This 1950’s American diner-themed
restaurant offers a broad menu of
typical US and Mexican cuisine.
The restaurant utterly
indulges in kitsch, and
is kitted out with an
excess of neon lights,
eating booths and mini
duke boxes at each
table.
The steaks are juicy,
the burgers wholesome
and milkshakes are
thick and creamy.
There is substantial in and outdoor
seating space and a selection of
Food & Drink
plasma televisions that screen sport
regularly.
Sunday brunch is offered from 10am-
3pm where pancakes, muffins and
eggs cooked to your preference may
be guzzled. Substantial portions,
with main courses starting from €5.
Rani
Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn:
Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel:
+49 30 215 267. Open daily from
11am. Main dishes from €5, side
dishes from €2.
Slightly hidden away in the streets
of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian
restaurant. There is a large selection
of incredibly flavoursome traditional
Indian meals available at very
reasonable prices.
The atmosphere is
suitably casual as diners
tuck into what inevitably
becomes a monstrous
feast as the aromas and
flavours lure you into
trying many of the dishes
on offer.
A highlight on the menu
is definitely the Tikka dishes that
come served to the table on a frying
skillet, much to the allure of other
guests in the restaurant.
Schöneberg 148
Food & Drink Food & Drink

Joseph Roth Diele Value for money is key here with Munch’s Hus Restaurant delicious meatballs. For those
average daytime meal prices starting seeking a light lunch, sandwiches
www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer from as low as €4. In spite of the www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße and salads are also available.
Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten low price, the food is delicious and 66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49
Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon- 30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am. The restaurant’s interior adds a
hearty, if not totally inspiring, and
Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials Prices range from €4-€17. sophisticated touch, with large open
is perfect to be enjoyed in such a
from €3. windows, summery yellow walls and
humble establishment. As the only Norwegian restaurant in paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard
At first glance this small but The most appealing aspect of the Berlin, this place is definitely worth Munch who lived in Berlin in the
charming German restaurant along restaurant however can be found a visit if you fancy a change from 1890’s.
Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost its art-deco style. A wonderful Currywurst.
resemble a 1920’s American diner. The light atmosphere and the
Situated in the Schöneberg district, affordable yet high quality food make
However, the only
Munch’s Hus boasts a range of this restaurant a hit with everyone
similarity here lies
traditional Norwegian delicacies from businessmen to students.
in its collection of
including fresh fish dishes and
old photographs and
memorabilia that
give testament to
the establishment’s
rooted history.
Named after a
Jewish writer whose
material can be
found throughout
the dining room, it
provides a limited
but delicious
selection of meals
that vary throughout
the week. contrast of abstract furnishings
During the daytime, the menu is and old photos can be found within
limited to a daily special (one meat to suitably accompany your meal.
and one vegetarian), and in the There are a wide range of barrel and
evening there is a slightly more bottled beers on offer, in addition to
expansive range of meals on offer. a respectable selection of wines.

149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150

 Accommodation
Jungen House Aletto
www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse
33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel:
+49 3 021 003 680.
Prices:
Dorm rooms: €15.
Single Rooms: €35.
Double Rooms: €39.
This modern style hostel at first
glance looks like a hotel with
plenty of places to wind down after
sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto
has a relaxing sociable atmosphere
where you can meet other travellers
while drinking tea or coffee courtesy
of the hostel.
There’s a lot to do in and around
this area as the hostel is a stone’s
throw away from the U-Bahn and
tram stops, which can take you to
popular streets like Goltzstraβe and
Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots
such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche
and the Zoo.
Each room has all the essentials and
are ensuite. The rooms are compact
as they’ve certainly made use of
their space but there is heaps of
storage so you won’t be tripping
over people’s luggage. All the rooms
are modern, clean and each bed is
provided with linen and towels.
151 Schöneberg
Although the hostel is on the main
road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole
hostel is quiet – something they pride
themselves on. The only drawback
is there’s no lift to this five storey
building.
· 24-Hour Reception
· All-you-can-eat breakfast
· Linen provided
Accommodation
Sunshine Hostel key if you arrive late at night.
w w w. sun sh in e h ouse - b e rl in . d e . The staff can also prepare breakfast
Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn: for hungry travellers, which is lovely
Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262 to eat outside in the courtyard or
079. in the apartment if it’s cold. If you
fancy eating out there are plenty
Prices: rooms from €19.50 of cafes and restaurants as well as
shops round the corner from the
This colourful hostel is a place for
hostel.
travellers of all ages. The hostel has
a definite community feeling with · BYO towels
friendly English-speaking staff who
are very considerate to their guests · Breakfast €5 by request
needs. Although the hostel is close to · Internet and WIF
the motorway it has a huge courtyard
area with plenty of places to relax in
the sun or have a BBQ lunch.
The hostel has four separate blocks
with four levels. Each level is similar
to that of an apartment building with
four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a
small fully-equipped kitchen.
All the rooms are furnished and
there’s heaps of space for even the
largest suitcases. There are keys to
each room and each floor as well as
the gates to the grounds so it is very
safe.
There is also a lounge/basement area
with TV, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s
very light, spacious and is kept clean
and tidy, ready for use. Although
there’s not 24-hour reception there
is a code lock system to retrieve your
Schöneberg 152
 Contributors Contributors

153 154
 Contributors Credits

Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-Sowden Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden

Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski
Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden
Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson Zoe Milne
Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles Matt Wilson
Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge
Emily Vindler Piers Leonard Graphic Design: Matt Wilson
Pamela Mair Tom Foster
Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser Art Direction: Matt Wilson
Daniel Smith Alison Holland Mara Pattison-Sowden
Karolin Hosenfelder Kieran Monaghan Zoe Milne
Michael McKay Jay Patani Sebastian Cure
Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-Warr Rosanne Visser
Sara Johnstone Katie Clark
Jason Chen Peter Bolton Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser
David Vanderhoff Michael Alhadeff Tom Foster
Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton Matt Wilson
Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne Nadine Truong
Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh Project City Travel Review by:
Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer
www.citytravelreview.co.uk
Jessica Davidson
www.curso24.de

155 156
 Credits Credits
©:
Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-Sowden
Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski
Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates
Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson
Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles
Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge
Emily Vindler Piers Leonard
Pamela Mair Tom Foster
Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser
Daniel Smith Alison Holland
Karolin Hosenfelder Kieran Monaghan
Michael McKay Jay Patani
Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-Warr
Sara Johnstone Katie Clark
© All Contributors 2009 Jason Chen Peter Bolton
David Vanderhoff Michael Alhadeff
This document or part thereof may Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton

not be reproduced without express Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne

permission from the authors. Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh

Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer
Jessica Davidson

157 158