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island odyssey
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TAKE A TASTE TOUR 01 Steamed Parmesan ravioli in a lentil reduction at El Rincn de Juan Carlos 02 Daniel Franco, executive chef at Kabuki on Tenerife 03 Volcanic Lanzarote 04 Vegetables grown by the lvarezes 05 Fried strips of aubergine in a red miso sauce at Kabuki 06 Hotel Jardines de Nivaria, Tenerife

O n c e a c u l i n a r y b a c k w a t e r, the Canaries are surfing a a creative food wave right now. With the winter sun shining strong, it gave us the perfect excuse to embark on a gastronomic t o u r o f Te n e r i f e , L a n z a r o t e and Gran Canaria
03 WORDS ANDREA MONTGOMERY PHOTOGRAPHY HELEN CATHCART

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he light in the little plaza is fading as I let the earthy avour of whisperthin cochino negro (black pig) with true melt on my tongue, leaving just a hint of salt. Next up is morcilla (sweet black pudding) with almond, its peppery intensity softened by the cream wrapping and perfected with a single currant bow. It looks almost too good to eat as has every dish thats arrived at our immaculately dressed table over the course of the last two hours. With a Spanish sunset cloaking the sky in a imsy shawl of pink behind us, you could be forgiven for thinking that this scene is taking place at one of mainlands lauded Michelin-starred restaurants Mugaritz or Arzak, perhaps. In fact, Im in the modest-looking con nes of a family eatery in the popular Tenerife resort of Los Gigantes. Just a short stroll away, the buzzing harbour-side bars are

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TENERIFE TOUR 07

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Locals fish from the lava rocks along the wate r s e d g e

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The people who are coming to Tenerife now expect higher Smoked eel with standards, so we have to teriyaki sauce and raspberry at El continually improve, Franco Rincn de Juan Carlos tells me, as he places down a El Rincn de Juan small pyramid of fried Carlos owner/chef Juan Carlos Padrn aubergine strips on the table. San Juan, Tenerife Drizzled with a red miso sauce Miniature courgettes and sprinkled with sesame seeds, they melt in a creamy, smoky, synthesis of avour. At Kabuki, we combine Japanese methods with local produce and Spanish tastes, he explains. Rolling a single strip of gossamer-slim tuna belly to encase some pa amb tomquet (bread with tomato and olive oil topping) and popping it into my mouth, I see what he means. The delicate tuna yields to the distinctive Catalan avours in a medley of tastes and textures. Of course, without stellar produce such fancy techniques would be rendered worthless and this is another area where the Canaries are ourishing. In the up-and-coming resort of Playa San Juan, where locals sh from the lava rocks along the waters edge, Candido Paz Luis is one of a handful of butchers who, from

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serving the kind of sangria and paella you might expect to nd on this oft-maligned island, but here, tucked away behind the main drag, chef Juan Carlos Padrn is producing 08 serious high-end fare in the kitchen of El Rincn de Juan Carlos (elrincondejuancarlos.es). When El Celler de Can Roca knocked Copenhagens Noma o the No 1 spot in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list last year, it heralded Spains formal return to the top of Europes gastronomic tree. Given the preponderance of smashing restaurants on the mainland, that shouldnt come as too much of a surprise, but whats more interesting to discover is that the epicurean spotlight is also shining brightly all the way to these islands o the coast of Africa.

In recent years, the Canaries have undergone nothing short of a gastronomic explosion, and Padrn, who was voted runner-up in Spains Chef of the Year competition in 2012, is just one of a growing number who are changing opinions of these volcanic outposts. m here on a ve-day island-hopping odyssey to meet these gourmet crusaders. The obvious place to start my journey is at the luxurious, North African-themed Abama Golf & Spa Resort (abamahotelresort.com). Over the past decade, Tenerife has invested heavily in manicured, white-sand beaches and ve-star hotels to attract a more discerning visitor to its perpetually sunny shores. Its in the kitchens of these establishments that the islands burgeoning gourmet scene has blossomed. Indeed, Abamas cli top restaurants are home to the Canary Islands three Michelin stars. M.B. signature restaurant of Martn Berasategui was awarded its second star at the end of 2013; when Daniel Franco, executive chef at Kabuki, the hotels Japanese fusion restaurant, also received one.

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his Carnicera Playa shop (+34 922 138 006), provides the prized cochino negro pork, which is unique to the island and for which it is already well known among gourmands. He actually breeds many of the animals too. In the hands of Rubn Cabrera, head chef at La Cpula restaurant in the Hotel Jardines de Nivaria (adrianhoteles.com), the tender, moist cochino negro STARRY DINING is a revelation. I try it in a dish where the 11 Chef Rubn Cabrera meat literally melts at La Cpula 12 La Cpulas terrace into its potato bed, 13 Fish with papas giving an intensity negras and coriander of avour thats sauce at Kabuki nigh-on impossible to emulate with any other cut. Based from the kitchens of this genteel Art Deco-styled hotel on Costa Adejes pristine coastline, Cabrera specialises in French-Canarian fusion cuisine and he makes a point of using many of the islands products, including papas bonitas (speciality potatoes) and goo (roasted grain our).

Its in search of such produce that I head to the hills, the volcanic landscape a world away from luxury living. Here, Tino lvarez and his father, Faustino, are blazing a trail for 11 sustainable agriculture. Shunning all fertilizers and pesticides, they hand sow and harvest miniature vegetables that grace the dishes of Tenerifes gourmet restaurants. Carrots, rocket, aubergine, radishes, courgettes and pumpkin are grown to size order. These are true designer vegetables. We cannot continue exploiting the land to produce high volume and low quality, Tino says. Look at the beauty that surrounds us. We must ensure its future by working with the land, not against it. Tracking down the highly prized papas bonitas potatoes then takes me to the north of

The head chef at La Cpula makes a point of using many of the islands p r o d u c t s
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Look at the beauty that surrounds us. We must ensure its future by working with the land, not against it

HOME SOWN 14 Red king crab with Malvasa wine toee and aubergine with tonka beans at Cpula 15 Faustino and Tino lvarez in their garden

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Tenerife, where barren plains are replaced by fertile valleys and pine forests. In the steep streets of Icod el Alto, Anatolio Luis and the Asociacin La Papas Bonitas are working hard to protect this precious crop. Introduced from South America 400 years ago, many varieties are now unique to the Canary Islands and dependant on farmers for their continued existence. ts either an 11-hour ferry ride or a short 50-minute hop on the interisland Binter Airlines to get to Lanzarote. Either way, the dierence in scenery is noticeable. Gone is the lush greenery, replaced by an environment almost entirely bereft of rain, the clouds racing above the serrated mountain ridges and curved volcanic cones leaving only shadows. In the 200-year-old cottage of Restaurant La Tegala (lategala.com), I meet up with chef Germn Blanco, whose avant-garde cooking is dragging this island into the 21st century. The ultra-chic dining room, all glass, chrome and geometric shapes, is a tting backdrop for a degustacin menu that showcases the islands ingredients in a modern way. I use 30-40% local produce, he says. My passion is for avour, to me that is everything. Tomatoes, potatoes, sh,

onions, mojos [sauces], all have distinctive avours. Exchanging its briny habitat for a base of crunchy bread crumbs, a single, plump langoustine brings 17 the ocean vividly to the tongue, carried on a cold, sweet wave of mango mousse. Its an ingenious way to reect the watery landscape beyond the window with views looking out to Fuerteventura. The next dish only serves to underline this correlation. Small, succulent papas bonitas arrive topped with tuna and avocado tartare, on a bed of the nest slivers of sweet, green tomato. A strip of wafer-thin,

My passion is for f l a v o u r. L o c a l l y produced tomatoes, potatoes, fish, onions, mojos [sauces] all have ver y d i s t i n c t i v e f l a v o u r s
crisp, black bread mirrors the lava, completing the picture and adding a nal ourish of texture. Its that same volcanic landscape that produces some of the worlds leading Moscatel and Malvasa wines at the Bodega Stratvs (stratvs.com), a short walk away from La Tegala. Circular pits framed by stone walls decorate the lavarich soil, a tender green vine at the heart of each one. Drawing moisture from the air and trapping it beneath the surface, the mineral-rich lava allows the tender Malvasa grapes to grow without the need for irrigation. Its a terric place to come for a tasting or guided tour. Vines were rst planted on Lanzarote in the 18th century, but its only in recent years that the islands oenological reputation has grown. However, just a 45-minute ferry ride to Gran Canaria reveals another home-grown product that captivates global gourmets. Believe it or not, farmers have been growing coee in the palm- lled Valley of Agaete since the 18th century. Its here we head for the nal leg of our tour. From the terrace of Los Berrazales (bodegalosberrazales.com), at the foot of the Tamadaba Mountains, Victor Lugo Jorge points to the dilapidated roof of the tiny cottage where his father was born. Its just a few hundred metres from where were standing, in the most northerly coee plantation in the world, where the plants yield a smooth, chocolatey savour that retails in specialist outlets at 70 per kilo. Its not the only surprise this island has to oer. Still buzzing, I head south, leaving the green valleys and mountainous interior behind to arrive at the Playa del Ingls resort and the golden sand of Maspalomas

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18 SURF AND TURF 16 Chef Germn Blanco at La Tegala 17 Croquette of squid in its ink, liquid olive and anchovy in tomato at La Tegala 18 Local sh cherne with seaweed and seafood at La Tegala 19 Papas bonitas (Canarian potatoes) 20 Stratvs Vineyard, Lanzarote 21 Wine from the Stratvs Vineyard 21

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destination dining
Three other island eateries worth a detour
Kinloch Lodge Skye Two hours from Inverness, this Michelin-starred hotel restaurant serves seriously sublime dishes sourced from Skyes natural bounty and whipped up by chef Marcello Tully on the banks of dreamy Loch na Dal. kinloch-lodge.co.uk Polyphemus Ithaca When the cast of Captain Corellis Mandolin, who were shooting on Kefalonia, fancied something special, they took a 30-minute boat ride to this garden eaterie on Ithaca, which specialises in updated Greek classics. +30 2674 031 794 Venissa Mazzorbo Set in bucolic vegetable gardens and vineyards on one of Venices smallest islands, this chic retreat is one of the oating citys best gastro gems. In a destination that can be a tourist trap, its worth the vaporetto ride. venissa.it

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beach. There lies Bohemia Suites & Spa (bohemia-grancanaria.com). Formerly the Apolo Hotel, it recently received a funky and sexy retro-chic makeover that extends all the way to the 360 rooftop restaurant, where Xavier Franquet is preparing my last meal of the trip. The chef spent two years with the gourmet deity Ferran Adri at el Bulli and eight years working with three Michelin-starred Michel Gurard in France, so hes perfectly placed to comment on this wave of culinary creativity. The Canaries dont have a huge amount of products because theyre so small, but what they do have is excellent, he tells me as I tuck into a red mullet lasagne. I want to showcase the best local products and fuse them with Spanish avours. In many respects, its a tting conclusion to my odyssey. As the Canarian sun shimmers ercely on the horizon, I consider whats in front of me: delicate, buttery-eshed sh 22 perfectly complementing the aniseed tang of fennel and bitter olive. Outside the winter sky is still blue and inviting, while sandy beaches glow warmly in the haze. Just like the contents of my plate, these are simple island ingredients, one and all, but sprinkled with more than a smattering of star dust.

GRAN OFFERINGS 22 Los Berrazales coee beans on Gran Canaria 23 Red mullet and fennel lasagne at hotel Bohemia 24 San Pedro on Gran Canaria HEADLINE 01 Ceruptur erspiet ut minciaerum eos aute 02 Volorrum sinulles et id quiaspi enisit quam rerion re autet 03 Itae etur atecus et voles eatem quo 23 moditis 04 Maionet prem facestis est, comni ut 05 Itae etur atecus et voles eatem quo moditis

The Canaries d o n t h a ve a h u g e number of products because theyre so small, but what they do have is excellent

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Canary Islands need to know

Varieties of potatoes unique to the Canary Islands that are grown on Tenerife

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After tourism, the second biggest money maker for the islands is bananas easyJet Holidays Seven nights all-inclusive at the four-star Club Caleta Dorada on Fuerteventura, from London Gatwick on 3 March, costs from 267pp. easyJet.com/holidays*

(2)

Number of recognised wine regions, or Denominacines de Origen, in the islands

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Adrin Hoteles Jardines de Nivaria Its three restaurants include a buet and the gourmet La Cpula. Book at hotels.easyJet.com

ies to Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Tenerife South. See our insider guide on page 118. Book online at easyJet.com

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