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2 The collections
Applications
This collection makes quite a heavyweight cloth, kept very soft and tactile because of the lambswool and cashmere content. Because the fabrics are soft and cozy, they are perfect for blankets or throws, which could be paired with matching or coordinating cushions. These fabrics could also be applied to a coat or jacket. The weight and super-softness means that you wont need to line the garment, as it should feel nice against the skin. You will, however, need to consider how the pattern may be affected by seams or panelling in a garment, and choose the garment pattern accordingly.
The yarns
Warp yarns
sett at 16 e.p.i.
2/8 Spun silk Chunky 2-ply silk, one of the heavier weights of silk available to weave with. It is expensive so you may want to weave a practice warp with a viscose yarn of similar weight which will give you the same shine.
Apple Baby blue Lilac Bubblegum Tangerine
Development ideas
Weft yarns
2/28 Cashmere: Apple, Baby blue, Lilac, Bubblegum, Tangerine. Delicate 2-ply cashmere yarn, designed for knitting with. This yarn is not strong enough in the warp but its delicacy adds a softness to the finished fabric.
Once these designs have been woven and you have an understanding of how the patterns are created, challenge yourself technically by designing your own simple patterns and seeing if you can translate these using the deflected double cloth construction. While designing your pattern, it is important to remember that there are four blocks in the warptwo light and two dark. You must design your own pattern within this repeat. Use graph paper to help you work out whether the warp and weft floats are on the surface or the back of the fabric, in order to create the shapes within the design.
1/10 Mohair Fine mohair designed to be used on a fine-gauge knitting machine. You can use knitting yarns in the warp as long as they are strong enough.
Notes
This collection has been lightly feltedhandwashed in warm water with washing detergent. While washing, the fibers are gently rubbed together until they start to matt lightly together. This helps to add texture as the different yarns will all shrink at slightly different rates. Squeeze out any excess water and lightly iron the fabric before leaving it to dry flat.
Black
Wine
Turquoise
Ecru
Khaki
2/14 Lambswool: Black, Wine, Turquoise, Ecru, Khaki. 2-ply knitting yarn that felts beautifully. It also feels soft when washed. It is not strong enough for the warp but is great for the weftespecially as the felting means you do not need to sew or tie loose warp threads.
x
pattern Deflected double cloth 3
Black mohair
deflected double weave - threading plan
Threading plan
threading plan. silk 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
black mohair
x x
Turquoise lambswool Khaki lambswool Ecru lambswool Black lambswool
beginning
1 architecture Pattern A 1 architecture 1 architecture Pattern 1 2 3A 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern 1 2 3A 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Pattern AB Lambswool Pattern 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern A 1 Turquoise 2 3 4 5 Lambswool 6 7 8 Pattern 12 23 3B 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 1 4 Khaki Lambswool Pattern 1 2 3B 4 5 6 7 8 Khaki Lambswool Pattern B 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Khaki Lambswool Pattern BC Pattern Lambswool 1 Khaki 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern 1 2 3C 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern 1 2 3C 4 5 6 7 8 12 3 4 5 Lambswool 6 7 8 Turquoise Pattern C 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern C 1 Turquoise 2 3 4 5 Lambswool 6 7 8 Pattern D Pattern 1 2 3D 4 5 6 7 8 Khaki Lambswool Pattern 1 2 3D 4 5 6 7 8 KhakiD Lambswool Pattern 1x 2 3 4 2, 5 C6x 7 8 A 2, B4 x 2, 8 D x 2. 1 2 3 5 6 7 Khaki Lambswool Pattern A x 2, BD x 2, C x 2, D x 2. Khaki Lambswool A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2. A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2. 12 architecture 23 34 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 1
1 Architecture
A strong horizontal turquoise stripe is broken at small intervals by cream stops. The khaki threads help to knock back the black, resulting in a richly subtle cool green that offsets the punchier turquoise. On the back of the fabric, the pattern looks the same, with the diagonals within the cream squares reversed.
How the pattern repeats
Warp Repeat
2 1 zipper 2 3 4 Pattern 1 2 3C 4 Ecru La Pattern 1 2 3C 4 Ecru La Pattern C 1 2 3 4 Ecru La Pattern C 1 Ecru 2 3 La 4 Pattern 1 2 3D 4 Black L Pattern 1 2 3D 4 Black L Pattern D 1x2 4 C 2, 3 Dx Black L Pattern C x 2, DD x Black L C x 2, D x
C x 2, D x
Backoffabric
Weft
Repeat
2 Zipper
Black and cream yarns combine in a vertical zebra pattern to create a strong graphic print that would look completely at home in a contemporary setting. On the back of the fabric, cream zipper edges become black.
Warp How the pattern repeats Repeat
1 architecture 1 architecture 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern A Turquoise Lambswool 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern B 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Khaki Lambswool Pattern B Khaki Lambswool 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern C 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Turquoise Lambswool Pattern C Turquoise Lambswool 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern D 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Khaki Lambswool Pattern D Khaki Lambswool A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2. A x 2, B x 2, C x 2, D x 2.
Pattern C
2 zipper 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 1 Pattern C 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Ecru Lambswool Pattern C Ecru Lambswool
2 zipper
3 tooth 3 tooth
Pattern D
A x 4, E x 4,
Repeat
Backoffabric
Weft
Cx2; Dx2
4 The collections
Applications
These fabrics are stretchy and decorative. They have a similar construction to those used in Margo Selbys trademark fabrics, which are applied to fashion items and furnishings. Because of their stretchy nature, the fabrics also work particularly well as garments, such as jackets, jumpers, and dresses.
The yarns
Weft yarns
1/14 Lambswool Pink, Turquoise. This 1-ply knitting yarn is very delicate and would not be suitable as a warp yarn, but is perfect as a weft yarn.
Development ideas
Warp yarns
There are a multitude of designs that can be created by changing the scale and proportions of the blocks. The width of the blocks can be altered by changing the threading plan; the lengths of the blocks can be explored in the weaving. If you are using more than eight shafts you could create more than two blocks and a more complex geometric pattern. As an alternative to elastic yarn, experiment with overspun/crepe yarns. Using a wool that felts alongside the nonstretch yarns will also help to create the threedimensional forms, but without the stretch.
Turquoise viscose
Lilac cashmere
Robin cashmere
Delph cashmere
Lime cashmere
2/28 Cashmere Delph, Princess, Lime, Robin. This is a delicate 2-ply cashmere yarn designed for knitting, but which, when used as the weft, creates super-soft fabric.
2/12 Mercerized cotton Blazer, White. Set at 30 e.p.i. A strong yarn ideal for warps, which is easy to handle and to weave. The mercerization is a process of finishing the thread, which leaves the thread with a sheen and luster. Wind two colors together to create a striped-warp effect, known as an end and end warp.
Sherbet cotton
Toxic cotton
Beige Lycra
Maroon Lycra
Berry Lycra
White cotton
Lychen Lycra
Block Draft
Shaft numbers
White cotton
x10
x 10
x3
x5
1 Anderson
This bright, fluorescent yarn adds a striking and bold effect to the fabric.
Leaf Lycra Flamingo polyester floss Aqua wool White Lycra Lime wool Gray cotton
6 6
1 Anderson Pattern B
Anderson 5 5
Pattern 12 3B 4 5 6 7 8 Pattern B Leaf Lycra Leaf Lycra Flamingo Polyester Floss Flamingo Polyester Floss Aqua Wool Pattern K Aqua Wool
Backoffabric
Weft
Repeat
Bx6; Kx4; Bx6; Kx6
2 Architeque
In this sample the light and dark warp ends are kept on two sides of the cloth, producing a different look on the front and back.
1 6
Anderson 5
Pattern C
Architeque 3
Pattern 12 3C 4 5 6 7 8 White Lycra Lime Wool 2 Architeque Flamingo Pattern D Polyester Floss Grey Cotton
Repeat
P P
Backof fabric
Weft
Cx6; Dx4
6 The collections
3 3 Bond Bond Bond 2 2 2
3 Bond
Through a combination of structure and stripe, various scales of rectangle are created.
3 3
Gray wool Leaf Lycra Princess cashmere Pink lambswool Sherbet cotton Maroon Lycra
Delph cashmere Toxic cotton Sky cotton Berry Lycra Turquoise viscose
Pattern C
Pattern C C Pattern Grey Wool Wool - un-named un-named Grey Pattern C Leaf Lycra Leaf Grey Lycra Wool - un-named Pattern D Leaf Lycra
Pattern D D Pattern 3 Lycra Bond Leaf Leaf Lycra Pattern D Princess Cashmere Cashmere Princess Leaf Lycra Pink Lambswool? Lambswool? Pattern G Pink Princess Cashmere Pink Lambswool? Pattern C Grey Wool - un-named Pattern G G Pattern Leaf Lycra Leaf Lycra Lycra Leaf Pattern G Pattern A Cotton Sherbert Cotton Sherbert Leaf Lycra Sherbert Cotton Pattern D Leaf Lycra Pattern A Pattern A Maroon Lycra Lycra Princess Cashmere Maroon Pattern AB Pattern Pink Grey Lambswool? Wool - un-named un-named Grey Wool Maroon Lycra Grey Wool - un-named
Repeat
Backoffabric
Weft
Pattern B B Pattern G Delph Cashmere Delph Cashmere Leaf Lycra Pattern B Lycra Maroon Pattern HLycra Maroon Sherbert Cotton Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Cotton Toxic Maroon Lycra Toxic Cotton
4 Tirana
Many colors are used in this weft. It is interesting to see the way they change when they mix with either the light or dark warp end.
Bond Bond Bond Bond Pattern C Grey Wool - un-named Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool - un-named Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool - un-named Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool - un-named Leaf Lycra Pattern D Leaf Lycra Pattern D Princess Cashmere Leaf Lycra Pink Lambswool? Pattern D Princess Cashmere Leaf Lambswool? Lycra Pink Pattern D Princess Cashmere Leaf Lambswool? Lycra Pink Princess Cashmere Pink Lambswool? Pattern G Leaf Lycra Pattern G Sherbert Cotton Leaf Lycra Pattern G Cotton Sherbert Leaf Lycra Pattern G Cotton Sherbert Leaf Lycra Sherbert Pattern A Cotton 2 2 2 2
Pattern A Pattern H H Pattern Maroon Lycra Maroon Lycra Lycra Maroon Grey H Wool - un-named Pattern Sky Cotton Cotton Sky Cx3; Dx4; Gx4; Cx3; Maroon Lycra Sky Cotton Ax3; Bx8; Cx x 3, D xHx4; 4, G G Ax3 x 4, 4, C 3, D x 4, x C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, C 3, D x 4, G x 4, Hx x 4, A x 3. H x 4, A x 3. C x4 3, ATirana x 3, B x 8, Pattern B Pattern C H Delph x x 3. Cashmere 4 4, A Tirana Maroon Lycra 4 Tirana Toxic Cotton
4 Tirana Pattern 1 2 3C 4 5 6 7 8 Pink Lambswool? Pattern C Berry Lycra Pattern H Pink Lambswool? Pattern C Pattern GLycra Maroon Berry Lycra Pink Lambswool? Sky Cotton Pattern BerryC Lycra Pink Lambswool? C x 3, D x 4, G x 4, Berry Lycra C x 3, AG x 3, B x 8, Pattern H Sky x 4, Cotton A x 3. Pattern 1 Berry 2 3G 4 5 6 7 8 Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern G Berry Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern G D Pattern Berry Lycra Sky Cotton BerryD Lycra Pattern Sky Cotton Pattern D Berry Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern 1 Berry 2 3D 4 5 6 Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern BerryD Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern E BerryE Lycra Pattern
5 1 1 1 1
7 8
Backoffabric
Maroon Lycra Pattern A Grey Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Pattern Grey A Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Pattern Grey A Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Grey B Wool - un-named Pattern Delph Cashmere Pattern B Lycra Maroon Delph Cashmere ToxicB Cotton Pattern Maroon Lycra Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Pattern B Lycra Maroon Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Maroon Lycra Toxic H Cotton Pattern Maroon Lycra Pattern H Sky Cotton Maroon Lycra Pattern H Sky Cotton Cx 3, D x Lycra 4, G x 4, Maroon Cx 3, A x 3, B x 8, Pattern H Sky Cotton C 3, D xx4, Hx x 4, A 3.G x 4, Maroon Lycra C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, Sky D Cotton C Hxx3, 4, A x x 4, 3. G x 4,
Turquoise Viscose Pattern E Berry Lycra Turquoise Viscose Pattern BerryELycra Cx 7, G x 7, Viscose D x 7, Turquoise Pattern ELycra C x 2, E x5 4, C x 2, 1 xBerry 27, 3 6x 7 C G4 x 7, D 7,8 E Turquoise x 4, C x 2.Viscose C Berry x 2, E Lycra x 4, C x 2, C Ex x 7, 4, G Cx x 7, 2. D x 7, C x 2, E x 4, C x 2, C Ex x 7, 4, G Cx x 7, 2. D x 7, C x 2, E x 4, C x 2, E x 4, C x 2.
Weft
Repeat
5 Taut
Two rectangular windows are created using the same proportions. These then change color alternately.
Sea wool Beige Lycra Sherbet cotton Robin cashmere Toxic cotton Maroon Lycra
White Lycra Aqua wool Bond Yellow Picasso gimp Blue wool Bond Berry LycraBond
Pattern C Grey Wool Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool Pattern C Leaf Lycra Grey Wool Leaf Lycra Pattern D - un-named - un-named - un-named - un-named
Bond
2 2 2 2
Pattern C
4 4
Tirana 1 1 1 1
Tirana Tirana
4 Tirana Pattern 1 2 3C 4 5 6 7 8 Pink Lambswool? Pattern BerryC Lycra Pink Lambswool? Pattern D Pattern BerryC Lycra Pink Lambswool? Pattern C Berry Lycra Pink Lambswool? BerryG Lycra Pattern Sky Cotton Pattern 1 Berry 2 3G 4 5 6 7 8 Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern G Berry Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern GA Pattern Berry Lycra Sky Cotton BerryD Lycra Pattern Sky Cotton Pattern BerryD Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern 1 Berry 2 3D 4 5 6 7 8 Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern D Berry Lycra Sky Cotton Pattern B BerryE Lycra Pattern Turquoise Viscose Pattern E Berry Lycra Turquoise Viscose Pattern E Berry Cx 7, G Lycra x 7, D x 7, Turquoise Viscose C x 2, E x 4, C x 2, Pattern E 1 2 3 4 5D 6 x7 8 Berry Lycra C 7, 7, Ex x 4, G Cx x 7, 2.Viscose Turquoise C Berry x 2, E Lycra x 4, C x 2, C Ex x 7, 4, G Cx x 7, 2. D x 7, C x 2, E x 4, C x 2, C x 7, G x 7, D x 7, E x 4, C x 2. C x 2, E x 4, C x 2, E x 4, C x 2.
Backoffabric
6 Rockefeller
The use of this gimp yarn works well with the elastic, as it is distorted into a wavy shape, adding an organic form to the surface of the cloth.
Leaf Lycra Pattern D Cashmere Princess Leaf Pink Lycra Lambswool? Pattern D Princess Cashmere Leaf Lambswool? Lycra Pink Pattern D Princess Cashmere Leaf Lycra Pink Lambswool? Princess Cashmere Pink Lambswool? Pattern G Leaf Lycra Pattern G Sherbert Cotton Leaf Lycra Pattern G Cotton Sherbert Leaf Lycra Pattern G Sherbert Cotton Leaf Lycra Sherbert Pattern A Cotton Maroon Lycra Pattern Grey A Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Pattern Grey A Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Pattern A Grey Wool - un-named Maroon Lycra Pattern Grey B Wool - un-named Delph Cashmere Pattern B Lycra Maroon Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Pattern B Lycra Maroon Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Pattern B Lycra Maroon Delph Cashmere Toxic Cotton Maroon Lycra Pattern Toxic H Cotton Maroon Lycra Pattern H Sky Cotton Maroon Lycra Pattern H Sky Cotton Cx 3, D x 4, G x 4, Maroon Lycra Cx 3, A x 3, B x 8, Pattern H Sky Cotton C Hx x3, 4,D Ax x4, 3.G x 4, Maroon Lycra C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, Sky D Cotton C Hxx3, 4, A x x 4, 3. G x 4, C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, C Hxx3, 4,D Ax x 4, 3. G x 4, C x 3, A x 3, B x 8, H x 4, A x 3.
S Patt R S B Patt R S B Patt R S B R B Patt S Patt B S Patt B S Patt B S B Patt S Patt T S M Patt T S M Cx Patt T AS x M Cx T AM x Cx Ax Cx Ax
Repeat
Weft
4 4 4 4
Pattern J
6 6 6
Rockefeller
Pattern 1 2 3 J4 5 6 White Lycra Pattern Aqua JWool Pattern J Lycra White Pattern H White Lycra Aqua Wool Pattern Aqua JWool White Lycra Aqua Wool
7 8
Pattern H Yellow Picasso Gimp Pattern 1 White 2 3H 4 5 6 7 8 Lycra Pattern H Picasso Gimp Yellow Yellow Lycra Picasso Gimp White Pattern H White Lycra Pattern Yellow IPicasso Gimp White Lycra Pattern I White Lycra Pattern Aqua IWool Pattern Lycra 1 White 2 3 I4 5 6 White Lycra Aqua Wool Pattern Aqua IWool White Lycra Pattern G Aqua Wool Pattern G Blue Wool Pattern GLycra White Pattern G Blue Wool Berry Lycra Blue Wool White Lycra Pattern 1 White 2 3G 4 5 6 Lycra Berry Lycra J xBlue 2, H Wool x 2, I x Berry Lycra Gx 10, D x 2. White Lycra J x 2, H x 2, I x Berry Lycra J HD x 2, Ix Gx x 2, 10, x 2. G x 10, D x 2. J x 2, H x 2, I x G x 10, D x 2.
7 8
Repeat
Backoffabric
Weft
2, 2, 2, 2,
7 8
Learn to create textiles that are rich with color and texture. Using either a simple four- or eight-shaft loom, you can discover how to mix color and yarn types in your weaving with Color and Texture in Weaving. Even if youre new to the loom, youll find complete instructions on how to get your loom set up, plus illustrated diagrams and lifting patterns. Color and Texture in Weaving also offers tons of inspiration and ideas for what to weave. More experienced weavers will also enjoy the more complex techniques, plus the directory of patterns to weave. Get inspired to create fresh new textiles with Color and Texture in Weaving. Author MargO SelbY is an extremely successful weaver and textile designer who has designed products for a leading home interiors store, Habitat, and has appeared on the BBC.
Paperback 8 10, 144 pages ISBN 978-1-59668-372-3 $26.95 Available December 2011