WALKS

IN

EOME

BY

AUGUSTUS
AUTHOR WALKS IN

J. C. HARE
OF NORTHERN AND ETC. CENTRAL

LONDON,'
'

'CITIES
DAYS

OF

ITALY,

NEAR

ROME,'

FOURTEENTH

EDITION

(REVISED)

IN

TWO

VOLUMES

VOL,

I.

LONDON GEORGE

h
CROSS ROAD

ALLEN,

156, CHARING
1897
[All rights reserved]

Price

Ten

Shillings tlie

Two

Volumes

rriu/ed

hy

BaLLANTYNE,

HANSON

" CO.

ylt tlu Ballantyne Press

TO

HIS

DEAR

MOTHER

THE

CONSTANT

COMPANION

OF

MANY

ROMAN

WINTERS

THESE

PAGES

ARE

DEDICATED

BY

THE

AUTHOK

CONTENTS

OF

THE

FIRST

VOLUME

INTRODUCTORY.
PAGE

The

Arrival

in

Rome

CHAPTER

I.

Dull-Useful

Information

16

CHAPTER

II.

The

Corso

and

its

Neighbourhood

23

CHAPTER

III.

The

Capitoline

69

CHAPTER

IV.

The

Forums

and

the

Coliseum

105

CHAPTER

V.

The

Velabrum

and

the

Ghetto

151

CHAPTER

VI.

The

Palatine

181

viii

CONTENTS

OF

THE

FIRST

VOLUME

CHAPTER

VII.
PAGE

The

Coblian

209

CHAPTER

VIII.

The

Aventinb

229

CHAPTER

IX.

The

Via

Appia

245

CHAPTER

X.

The

Quirinal

and

Viminal

286

INDEX

313

WALKS

IN

ROME

INTRODUCTORY

THE

ARRIVAL

IN

ROME

'

A GAIN that when

many

this my
I

date hand

of
can

Rome
ever

the

most

solemn
even now

and
more

-^
than how

write,
Dr. and

and

interesting interesting
in

saw

it

wrote last,'

Arnold since
to
a

to

his

wife

1840," and
the
one same

thousands have of
many

before looked

have

experienced
Rome
as

feeling, who
great
An
events

forward
as

visit to

of

the and

their

lives,
!

the

realisation

of

the

dreams

longings
Europe. yet instance, curiosity
and

of

arrival

years is very different to in Rome and It is coming to a place new well

at

that

in any
most

other

town

in

yet

familiar, strange
at

so or

known.

When

travellers

arrive

Verona,

for

Aries, they generally go to the amphitheatres with a what like ; but when at they are they arrive and it is to visit an Rome object whose go to the Coliseum, ance appearfrom has been familiar it to them childhood, and, long ere distant is reached, from the heights of the Capitol they can nise recogthe well-known form and is not as regards St. Peter's, who ; familiar with the aspect of the dome, of the wide-spreading piazza, and the foaming fountains, for long years before to gaze they come
to

know

"

upon
"

the

reality?
of the emotions with which
wrote

My

presentiment
ruins them before has is
new

I should Niebuhr.

behold
*

the

Roman about

proved
to
me

quite correct,'
;
as a

Nothing
gether, toat

child their upon

their

pictures, that

lay so images
mind

often, for hours

were,
as even

that

early age,
seen
*

as

distinctlyimpressed revoir,'says
et

my

if I had

actuall}'
de

them.' Je
ne

saurais
si

Montaigne,
puissante, que
de Rome Je maison.
et

'si souvent

le tombeau
et

cette

ville
eu

grande

si

je

ne

I'admire

rev5re. que
et
son

J'ai

connaissance

des 'de
le

aifaires
ma

connaissance j'aie eu avant plan je susse que What what

VOL.

savais

long temps avant le Capitole

avant

Louvre,
says true

le Tibre

la Seine.' find those in it who

Madame
you
I.

Swetchine into

of

life, that

you

exactly
come

put

it, is also

of Rome,

and

to

r.

Walks

in Rome

those least fitted to enjoy it. it with least mental are preparation That preparation, however, is not so easy as it used to be. In the old days, the happy old days of vetturino travelling, there were the country was not too beautiful and the quiet hours, when many in which Gibbon and Merivale and Milman towns not too interesting, the pleasantestof travelling were companions, and when books on Italian art and poetry served to illustrate and illuminate the graver studies which were graduallymaking Italy,not only a beautiful but a country filled with forms which were growing daily panorama, familiar acquaintance. Perugia and Spoleto, into more Terni and led fitly then up to the greater interests of Rome, Civita Castellana, there are no such opportunities of courtiers to a king. But now as old in of and landmarks, travellers who pay a spite preparation, bewildered hurried visit to Rome of interest are by the vast mass before them, by the endless labyrinth of minor objects which they feel it a duty to visit. The natives are able undesire, or, still oftener, to assist them, for it is stillas true as in the days of Petrarch, less known than in Rome is Rome itself.'^ Their that 'nowhere indicate appalling lists Murray, their P"aedeker, and their Bradshaw of churches, temples, and villas which ought to be seen, but do not in a manner which distribute them will render their inspection The to change into an seems more promised pleasure rapidly easy. endless vista of labour to be fulfilled and of fatigue to be gone the hours spent at Rome rather hours of are through ; henceforward endurance than of pleasure : his cicerone drags the traveller in one direction : his antiquarian friend,his artistic acquaintance, would fain drag him in others ; he is confused by accumulated misty glimmerings learnt at school,but long since from historical facts once forgotten of artistic information,which he feels that he ought to but which, from want have gleaned from years of social intercourse, of use, has never made of impression by shadowy ideas any depth of that this king and to the story as emperor, "of this pope and that saint,which, from insufficient time, and the absence of books of he has no opportunity of clearing It is therefore in reference, up. of these bewildered the hope of aiding some ones, and of rendering and their walks in Rome that the following more more interesting, easy and are only They aim at nothingoriginal, chapters are written. and of the information of a a others, gleaning from gathering up what has been already given to the world in a far better and fuller, but less portable form ; while, in their plan,they attempt to guide the traveller in his dailywanderings through the cityand its suburbs. There is one point which cannot be sufficiently impressed upon those who wish to take away than a mere surface impression more of Rome too to see much : it is,never try to do Rome, ; never Nothing can be more depressingto those who reallyvalue Rome two than to meet Englishmen hunting in couples through the Vatican galleries, of the statue in the one looking for the number other hear the it than to Americans describe guide-book, finding ;
" "

'

'

Letters to Cardinal

Giovanni

Colonna.

Introductory
the Forum
as

the dustiest heap of old ruins they had ever looked of their the de' Venus when asked Medici,that opinion upon ; or say, ' ' not particular they guess they were gone on stone gals; than to who boasts of having seen encounter a husband everythingin Rome wife laments in while the she in three days, that, recollection, the Vatican from the Capitol, or S. Peter's from cannot distinguish S. Paul's. Better far to leave half the ruins and nine-tenths of the and to see well the rest ; to see them not once, but churches unseen often and again ; to watch them, to learn them, to live with again a them, to love them, till they have become part of life and life's in the galleries be can recollections. And it is the same : for what wander the whole Vatican at once over carried away by those who limbs ? at best a nightmare in but a hopeless chaos of marble and Mercury, Jupiter and Juno, play the principal Venus which parts. But, if the traveller will benefit by the Vatican, he must friends with a few of the statues, and pay them and make visits, then into the of their purity constantly greater intimacy ; grow outlines and the majestic serenityof their godlikegrace will have his spirit of beauty of which to a perception him, raising power over discern idea and him to the traces of before, he had no enabling works of those who be struggling and may genius in humbler while the but have found after the right best, who, they striving path which leads to the great end, are still very far off. not be supposed that one short In any case, however, it must will be sufficient make Rome to residence at a foreigner acquainted tions with all its varied treasures ; or even, in most cases, that its attracthe The will become to squalidappassingstranger. apparent pearance of its modern the hideous mutilations streets,and stillmore and additions of the Sardinian occupation, will go far to neutralise
"

and the grandeur of its historic the effect of its ancient buildings recollections. It is only by returning again and again, by allowing of Rome to gain upon have constantly the feeling you you, when revisited the same view, the same ruin, the same picture, under Rome that itself circumstances, varying engraves upon your heart, and
'

unwholesome disagreeable, acquaintance,into a dear and intimate friend seldom long absent from your thoughts. should Whoever,' said Chateaubriand, has nothing else left in life, find for societya land which to live in Rome come ; there he will walks which will always tell him somewill nourish his reflections, thing crumbles under his which will feet The stone new. speak to
a
'

changes from

him, and

the wind raises under his footsteps the dust which even will seem to bear with it something of human grandeur.' known have once 'When Rome,' wrote Hawthorne, 'and left we like a long-decaying she lies, her where corpse, retaininga trace of dust and a fungous the noble shape it was, but with accumulated admirable features left her in growth overspreadingall its more utter weariness, no doubt, of her narrow, crooked, intricate streets, of lava that to tread over so uncomfortably paved with little squares
"

them
so

ugly, moreover, pilgrimage;so indescribably penitential which the into and where sun never falls, cold,so alley-like,
is
a

4
chill wind

Walks

in Rome
"

forces its deadly breath into our lungs left her, tired of the sight of those immense seven-storied, yellow-washed hovels,or where is all that call them palaces, dreary in domestic life seems and weary of climbing those staircases magnified and multiplied, ascend from a ground-floor of cook-shops,cobblers' -stalls, which stables,and regiments of cavalry,to a middle region of princes, and ambassadors, and an upper tier of artists, beneath cardinals, just left unattainable with the less cheerout at the her,worn sky shivering and smoky fireside by day, and feasting with our own substance of bed Koman left at the ravenous a her, sick at population night which has uprooted whatever faith in man's heart of Italian trickery, endured h ad till and sick stomach of at sour bread, integrity now, rancid bad sour on butter,and wine, cookery, needlesslybestowed left her,disgusted with the pretence of holiness and the evil meats each equallyomnipresent left her, half lifeless of nastiness, reality from the languidatmosphere, the vital principle of which has been used up long ago or corrupted by myriads of slaughters left her, in spirit crushed down by the desolation of her ruin and the hopelessness left her, in short,hating her with all our of her future to the infinite anathema might, and adding our individual curse have unmistakably brought down which her old crimes when ; left mood Kome in such a have as we this,we are astonished by the discovery,by-and-by, that our have mysteriously heartstrings attached themselves to the Eternal City, and are drawing us thitherward more more familiar, again, as if it were intimately our home, born.' the spot where we than even were of Rome This is the attractive and sympathetic power which
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Byron

so

fullyappreciated
"

'

Oh
ITie

Rome

! my

orphans

Lone mother In their shut breasts their petty misei-y. What and sufferance ? Come and are our woes The cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way O'er steps of broken thrones and temples. Ye Whose agonies are evils of a day" A world is at our feet as fragile as our clay.

country ! city of the soul ! of the heart must turn to thee, of dead empires ! and controul

see

The Niobe of nations ! there she stands Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe An empty urn within her withered hands, Whose sacred dust was scattered long ago ; The Scipios' tomb contains ashes now no ; The vei-y sepulchres lie tenantless Of their heroic dwellers : dost thou flow, Old Tiber I through a marble wilderness ? Rise, with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress I

'

of an arrival at the Eternal City was The impressiveness formerly enhanced of the country through whicli by the solemn singularity Those who it was arrive at Rome slowly approached. now by the in Mrs. Craven her 'Anne 'and rush like a railway,' Severin,' says cannot whirlwind into a station, imagine the effect which the words Ecco Roma" at the point in formerlyproduced when, on arriving
' "

Introductory

the road from which the Eternal City could be descried for the first time, the postillion stopped his horses, and, pointingit out to the traveller in the distance, accent pronounced them with that Roman which is grave and sonorous itself.' the of Rome name as ' ' How Cardinal the usual indication was Wiseman, pleasing,' says to earlytravellers, outstretched in the voice and whip, embodied by well-known exclamation of every vetturino, Ecco Roma." To one " lasso maris et viarum," like Horace, these words brought the first miles of weary hills, promise of approaching rest. A few more and of from its one more a summit, which, swelling every gave far outline what constituted that to majestic so "Roma," is,the its only discernible great cupola,not of the church, but of the city, like into the clear a huge peak, part, cutting, wintry sky, and the long journey was ended, and ended by the full realisation of wellcherished hopes.' Most by sea from travellers, perhaps,in the old days, came Marseilles and arrived from Civita Vecchia, by the dreary road which leads through Palo, and near the base of the hills upon which stands Cervetri, the ancient Caere, from the junctionof whose name and customs the word useful in has arisen, so especially ceremony the great neighbouring city. This road from Civita Vecchia,'writes Miss Edwards, 'lies among with bush and hillocks, shapeless shagg}^ briar. Far away side gleams a line of soft blue sea the on on one other lie mountains distant. Not a sound as blue, but not more stirs the stagnant air. Not a tree, not a housetop, breaks the wide like a carpet, and the wheels monotony. The dust lies beneath follows like a cloud. The grass is yellow, the weeds are parched ; and where there have been wayside pools, the ground is cracked and dry. Now we pass a crumbling fragment of something that may have been a tomb come or we temple centuries ago. Now upon like a little wide-eyed the boy ruins, keeping goats among peasant Giotto of old. Presently a buffalo lifts his black mane above the do more than and rushes away before we can hillock, neighbouring the to which attains its it. Thus the we point saw day spot on brilliant but noon, and the sun hangs overhead like a brazen shield, cold. Thus, too, we reach the brow of a long and steep ascent, where driver pulls up to rest his weary beasts. The sea has our faded almost out look larger and of sight; the mountains now nearer, with streaks of snow upon their summits, the Campagna reaches on and on and shows no sign of limit or of verdure ; while, in the midst of the clear air,half way, so it would between seem, dome. solemn solitary you and the purple Sabine range, rises one of St. Peter's ? Can it be the dome The great feature of the Civita Vecchia route was that,after all the utter desolation and dreariness of many miles of the least interesting part of the Campagna, the traveller was almost stunned by the transition, when, on suddenly passing the Porta Cavallegh e found himself in the Piazza of S. Peter's,with its widegieri, and high-springing fountains ; indeed, the spreading colonnades first building he saw S. Peter's, the firsthouse that of the Pope, was
" '
'
"

'

"

'

Walks

in Rome

the palace of the Vatican. But the more gradualapproach by land from Viterbo and Tuscany possessed equal,if not superior, interest. * Dr. Arnold, When turned the summit above Viterbo,' wrote we 'and opened on the view on the other side,it might be called the first approach to Home. At the distance of more than forty miles, it was, of course, impossibleto see the town, and, besides,the distance was hazy ; but we were lookingon the scene of the Roman were history standing on the outward edge of the frame of the ; we not to be traced great picture; and though the features of it were had the consciousness that we distinctly, they w^ere before us. yet I think, Here, too, we first saw the Mediterranean, the Alban hills, in the remote and justbeneath the on distance, left, Soracte,an us, outlier of the Apennines, which has got to the right bank of the Tiber, and stands out by itself most magnificently. Close under us, in front, the Ciminian was lake, the crater of an extinct volcano, and surrounded, as they all are, with their basin of wooded hills, beautiful mirror stretched like before Then there out a us. lying the grand beauty of Italian scenery, the depth of the valleys, was the endless varietyof the mountain and the towns outline, perched the mountain under seen a mottled summits, and this now upon sky, which threw an ever-varying lightand shadow over the valley and freshness all the of the beneath, spring. We descended young along one of the rims of this lake to Eouciglione,and from thence, still descending on the whole, to Monterosi. the famous Here and it certainly is one of the most tracts Campagna begins, striking It is by no of country I ever beheld. means a perfect flat, except Rome between and the sea ; but rather like the Bagshot Heath and the road valleys, country, ridges of hills,with intermediate often running between crossing high,steep banks, and sometimes sunk in a deep bed. All these banks are overgrown sluggish streams with broom, now in full flower ; and the same plantwas luxuriant no everywhere. There seemed why the country apparent reason should be so desolate ; the grass was richly everywhere. growing but all looked as fresh and There was marsh no anywhere visible, healthy as any of our chalk downs in England. But it is a wide wilderness ; no scarcely any houses, and here and there villages, a lonely ruin of a single square tower, which I suppose used to and cattle in the plundering warfare for men serve as strongholds in the Middle Ages. It was after crowning the top of one of these lines of hills, side of Baccano, at five minutes the Roman a little on after six, accordingto my watch, that we had the first view of Rome itself. I expected to see S. Peter's rising above the line of the horizon, York Minster instead does of but as that,it was within the horizon, ; and so was much and from the nature of the ground, less conspicuous, it looked mean and stumpy. Nothing else marked the site of the city, but the trees of the gardens, and a number of white villas specking the opposite bank of the Tiber for some little distance above the that burst town, and then suddenly ceasing. But the whole scene taken in all its parts, was most our view, when interesting. upon Full in front rose white villas the Alban the their sides on hills,

Introductory
even visible, distinctly

than thirty which was at that distance, more and Tivoli the the miles. On left were was distinctly Apeninnes, of the lowest and of its mountain, on one the summit to be seen on On the right,and all before us, lay the nearest parts of the chain. succeeded by that of level outline was Campagna, whose perfectly to get dark, It the sea, which more so. was began now scarcely left dark after and as there is hardly any twilight, it was soon we The air blew fresh the last post before you enter Rome. La Storta, had a pleasant drive over the remaining part and cool, and we descended into the valleyof the Tiber, of the Campagna, till we and crossed it by the Milvian bridge. About two miles farther on reached the walls of Rome, and entered it by the Porta del we

Popolo.'
Niebuhr, coming the that this morning, from
* with solemn feelings way, says : It was the barren heightsof the moory Campagna, of S. and then of the city first of the I Peter's, cupola caught sight all the majesty of her buildings and her where from the bridge, before the of the out lie to historyseem spread stranger ; and eye afterwards entered by the Porta del Popolo.' Madame de Stael givesus the impression which the same subject would produce on a different type of character: les d'Erfeuil faisait de comiques lamentations Le Comte sur de environs de Rome. cam"Quoi," disait-il, "point de maison

same

"

'

d'une grande le voisinage " tristesse En I Dieu, quelle approchant de Rome, " les postilions s'ecrierent avec transport: voyez, voyez, c'est la Saint-Pierre Les aussi le Vdsuve ; de ! montrent Napolitains coupole des cotes. fait de meme des habitans "On et la mer I'orgueil croirait voir le dome des Invalides," s'dcria le Comte d'Erfeuil.' have It was pilgrims by this approach that most of its distinguished hither of the Catholic world : monks, who came entered the capital thirsted to of their Orders ; saints, who to obtain the foundation to receive came or who worship at the shrines of their predecessors, the crown of martyrdom ; priests and bishops from distant lands coming in turn to receive here the highest dignitywhich many Christendom could offer ; kings and emperors, at to ask coronation the hands of the reigningpontiff all these, came by ; and, among this road, in the full fervour of Catholic enthusiasm, Martin Luther, the future enemy of Rome, then its devoted adherent. When Luther h, to Rome,' says Ampere, in his 'Portraits de Rome came divers Ages,''the future reformer was and obscure a young monk, fervent ; he had no presentiment, when he set foot in the great Babylon, that ten years later he would burn the bull of the Pope in the publicsquare of Wittenberg. His heart experienced nothing but pious emotions addressed in he the salutation ancient to Rome ; " of the I he salute 0 hymn thee, holy Rome, Rome cried, pilgrims ; venerable through the blood and the tombs of the martyrs." But after having prostrated on the threshold, he raised himself, he into the entered temple, he did not find the God he looked for ; the and prostitutes. of murderers cityof the saints and martyrs was a city

pagne, ville !

pointde voiture,rien qui annonce

Ah ! bon
"

"

'

Walks

in Rome

marked this corruption were arts which The powerless over the scandalised stolid senses, and the austere spiritof the German at monk he the ruins of pagan a scarcely passing glance ; gave horrified he all that he quitted Rome by Kome, and, inwardly saw, frame of mind very different from that which he brought with devotion then with of the he knelt the he returned now pilgrims, ; in a disposition like that of the frondcurs of the Middle Ages, but of which This Rome he had been the serious than theirs. more dupe, and concerning which he was disabused,should hear of him when, amid the merry toasts at his again ; the day would come would three table,he times, " I would not have missed going to cry for I should always have been uneasy for a thousand Rome florins, lest I should have been renderinginjustice to the Pope." Till late years life in Rome seemed to be free from of the many which it other troubles beset in and there stillfew are places; petty comforts and advantages to its foreign towns which offer so many indeed, are expensive,and the rent English visitors. The hotels, is of apartments paid,living is high ; but when the latter is once for those who rather cheap than otherwise, do not object especially and in trattoria to dine drive from a to hackney carriages.Prices, however, are enormously raised since the end of the last century, for the whole when Alfieri only paid ten scudi a month Strozzi palace,furnished,with the stables,and the use of the villa. is very variable. If the scirocco blows, it is The climate of Rome mild and very relaxing apt to be subject ; but the winters are more cold of the tramontana, which to the severe requires even greater and care than that of an English winter. precaution Nothing can than the impression that those who go to Italy mistaken be more there mild and to find a are sure congenial temperature. The has been subjectto severity, from the earliest climate of Rome even times of its historj'. of one Dionysius speaks year in the time of at Rome the snow feet deep, and the Republic when laj-seven cattle and died the cold.^ Another of men lay many year the snow and cattle died of hunger.^ Present for fortydays, trees perished, seldom lies upon the times are a great improvement on these : snow hours and the fountains for beautiful of together, ground many the cityare only hung with icicles long enough to allow^ the photographers thus ; but stillthe climate is not to be to represent them trifled with, and violent transitions from the hot sunshine to the No one but dogs and cool shade of the street often prove fatal. Englishmen,' say the Romans, 'ever walk in the sun.' is so much dreaded The malaria, which by the natives, generally and seldom affects strangers winter lies dormant the months, during of the new unless they live in some near quarters of the cit}* recent out excavations, or are inordinatelyimprudent in sitting the With heats of the late summer this insidious in the sunset. to is follow the and on slightest exertion, ague-fever apt ticularly parthose who field in to overwhelm labour. are employed
in
a

him

'

'

Dionysius, xii. 8.

Livy, v.

13.

Introductory
From

the Villa Borghese and the Villa Doria deserted the hills are Coelian, uninhabitable, and the more the Aventine, and part of the Esquiline are constant a prey to fever. The malaria,however, flies before a crowd of human life, and the Ghetto, teeming with inhabitants,was always perfectly free from it. The theory now accepted by the medical generally and due to the researches Klebs and Professor of Professor profession, is Tomraaso establishes malaria due that to a Crudeli, specific and microscopic plant which exists in the soil of certain districts, floats in the atmosphere above it. This plant, when inhaled and finds conditions favourable for its in the human absorbed, body at the growth and reproduction,and it prospers and multiplies it of in the dwells. which In the Campagna, organism expense rendered unhealthy by the cessation of volcanic action" with the exception of Porto d'Anzio, which has always been healthy no town is safe after the month of August, and to this cause or village the utter desolation of so many formerly populous sites (especially those of Veil and Galera) may be attributed :

June

to

November

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"

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'

donat ardua coUa virorum hominum, Roma, vorax Roma, ferax febrium, necis est uberrima fugum : Romanae febres stabili sunt jure fideles.'

Thus wrote Peter Damian in the tenth century, and those who refuse to be on their guard will find it so still. The greatest risk at Rome is incurred by those who, coming out of the hot sunshine,spend long hours in the Vatican and the other galleries, especiallythose of the Lateran palace (so fatal to the of the Middle Popes Ages), which are filled with a deadly chill this chill wears As March comes on during the winter months. and in and the of the April May (except away, galleries temperature those of the Lateran) is delightful, and it is impossibleto find a It is in the hope of inducing strangers to and of time in the study of these wonderful spend more museums, giving additional interest to the hours which are passed there, that is said about their contents As far as in these volumes. so much possibleit has been desired to evade any mere catalogue of their collections of objects which made that mention has been so no possess inferior artistic or historical interest ; while by introducing anecdotes connected with those to which attention is drawn, or by quoting the opinion of some good authority concerning them, an endeavour has been made in the recollection. to fix them The immense of extent Rome, and the wide distances to be traversed between its different ruins and churches, is in itself a sufficient reason for devotingmore time to it than to the other cities of Italy. Surprisewill doubtless be felt that so few pagan ruins the enormous which are known to have number remain, considering existed even down to a comparatively late period. A monumental record of a.d. 540, published by Cardinal Mai, mentions 324 streets,
more
"

agreeable retreat.

Capitols the Tarpeian and that on the Quirinal 80 giltstatues of the gods (only the Hercules remains), CG ivory statues of the
"

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10

Walks

in Rome

gods, 46,608 houses, 17,097 palaces,13,052 fountains,3785 statues of of emperors and generals in bronze, 22 great equestrian statues 2 colossi bronze (only Marcus Aurelius remains), (Marcus Aurelius and Trajan),9026 baths, 31 theatres, and 8 amphitheatres! It was Home the city of the Popes, not Nicholas V. who first tried to make of the Emperors, because the only the learned could understand the unlearned needed the of the grounds testimony papal authority, of their eyes, the sight of the magnificent memorials which bodied emclassical the history of Papal greatness.'That so many
'

is due in part to the interference of now see Julius II. relics left to to 'protect the few implored of antiquity and of that divine love to the power testify greatness whose to all who were was inspiration capable of higher memory But the o f ancient is above things.' preservation so many buildings all due to the fact, that in the earlyyears of Christianity every remains still exist
as we

who Raffaelle,

buildingcapable of pagan into a church or chapel.

'

a congregation was containing

converted

churches old saying, contains there are as as an many ' ' is too modest the This statement published great catalogue ; mentions dred over a thousand places of worship, while nine hunand eighteen are A registered in Professor Armellini's " Chiese di Roma." have and are known great many disappeared since the first institution, only from been Others have ruins, or inscriptions and chronicles. disfigured by " restorations." Without denying the fact that the sacred buildings of Rome excel in quantity rather than quality,there is no doubt that as a whole they form the best artistic and historic collection in the world. Every age, from the apostolicto the present, every school, every stylehas its representativesin the and architects, churches of Rome. selves Let students, archaeologists, provide themwith a chronological table of its sacred buildings, and select the best specimens for every quarter of a century, beginning with the oratory of Aquila and Priscilla, in the Epistles, and ending with the latest contemporary mentioned they cannot find a better subject for their education in art and history.' creations, Lanciani.

Rome,

according to

the year. by Cardinal Mai

days in

"

"

have done more of Sardinian rule 1870-96 for of the Goths the destruction of Rome than all the invasions and Vandals. If the Government, the Municipality, fessed, and, it must be conthe Roman had been united together since 1870, aristocracy, with the sole object of annihilating the beauty and interest of Rome, effectually.The old charm is gone they could not have done it more for ever, the whole aspect of the cityis changed,and the picturesquebe sought in such obscure corners of former days must ness now as

Twenty-six

years

"

"

have Villa been

escaped the hands of the spoiler. The gloriousgardens of the hilated Negroni, Villa Corsini,and Villa Ludovisi have been anni: many preciousstreet memorials of mediaeval historyhave
swept
Promenade of the Sun has been ; the sacred away ancient levelled with have been the ground or convents ;
; historic churches
"

desecrated
turned

have been yellow-washed or of modernised; every tree importance in the city includingthe has been cut down noble ilexes of Christina of Sweden ; the pagan of all that gave them ruins have been denuded or picturesqueness beauty ; and several of the finest fountains have been pulled down bereaved The Palace of the Caesars of half their waters. is or
"

into barracks

12
the

Walks

in Rome

of men are employed in pavement. In the same way hundreds and flowers the all along the hedges rooting up perpetually grass down in the outskirts of Rome, and keeping them to the level of hideous

dust-heaps. In

flower is characterised Victor ceiving reEmmanuel, by solemn speeches at Florence, when in at the Roman and by speeches Rome plebiscite, parliament, of promised over and over again that the property and privileges be respected and Catholic institutions should secured. Yet, in broken October 1871, the papal palace of the Quirinal was open and seized. and ruin of the eight great Then came the spoliation SS. Apostoli, S. Maria in Vallicella, S. Sihestro in Capite, convents Maria delle S. S. Silvestro di Monte Vergine, S. Andrea Cavallo, della Valle,S. Maria Minerva, and S. Agostino. A seizure of the and followed ; and on May 27, 1873, monasteries of nuns gardens and nuns bill the iniquitous was passed which drove the monks from their homes, robbing them of their doweries by a process which them theft, w^as simply making dependent upon ill-paid pensions varying from sixpence to tenpence a day, and putting their lands and houses up to public auction. in these pages to describe the country No attempt has been made round the city, few of the most cursions a beyond ordinarydrives and ex"

Sardinian Rome indecenza.' as an

'

blade

of grass

or

wild

But outside the walls. the opening of the railways to Civita and Viterbo have now Vecchia, Terracina, brought Naples, of within the range of a day's exvast excursions a new pedition. variety The papal citadel of Anagni, the temples of Cori, the Cyclopean remains of Segni, Alatri, Norba, Cervetri, and Corneto, with the gorge of Civita Castellana the wild heights of Soracte,

Anguillaraand
as are

Bracciano
'

by their lovelylake, may

now

become

well knowai as the oft-visited Tivoli,Ostia, and Albano. They ' i n Cities and all described in Days near briefly) Rome,' (more of 'Southern of Central,' or Italy.' From the experience of many truly say that years the writer can Rome the more the of become scenes intimately known, the more It is not affections. deeplythey become engraven upon the inmost hurried visit to the Coliseum, with guide-book and a cicerone, in the fulness of its beauty ; but to drink enable one with familiar its solemn walls,in the everlong friendship after till, varying grandeur of golden sunlightand grey shadow dear as those of no days' companionship, its stones become many is other building be and it not a rapidinspectionof the ever can ; huge cheerless basilicas and churches^ with their gaudy marbles which and gilded ceilings and ill-suited monuments, arouses your of their preciousfragments of sympathy, but the long investigation ancient cloister and sculptured fountain, of mouldering fresco and
will
a

which

and

"

gateway and palm-shadowed garden ; and the graduallyacquired knowledge of the wondrous around each of these ancient things,and which story which clings tells how each has a motive and meaning entirely unsuspectedand the unseen by passing eye.
tomb,

mediaeval

of mosaic-crowned

Introductory
"

13

S. Peter's and yet to the solemn Rotunda, to the wondrous Mingling with heroes and gods, yet to the Vatican walls, above us, while a whole Yet we may mighty world seems go, and recline, Gathered and fixed to all time into one roofing supreme ; around us.' Yet may we, thinking on these things, exclude what is meaner Yet

"Cloiujh.
of Roman and events who wish to fix the scenes history securelyin their minds will do best perhaps to take them in groups. for instance, that any travellers wish to study the history ^Suppose, of S. Laurence, let them first visit the beautiful little chapel in the where the whole Vatican, story of his life is portrayedin the lovely Let them stand on the greensward frescoes of Angelico da Fiesole. distributed the treasures of the Church the where he Navicella, by Those Let them walk through the house of S. Ciriaca. he was of the Palatine, dragged to his crypto-porticus up which lean againstthe still-existing marble bar of the trial. Let them where he knelt to receive his sentence. Let them visit basilica, in Fonte, where he was and S. Lorenzo imprisoned, baptized his in the fountain which gives the church its name. fellow-prisoners the sqene Let them go hence to S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna, built upon of his terrific martyrdom, which is there portrayedin a fresco. Let them his traditional chains and the supposed gridiron of his see in Lucina. at the great basilica at S. Lorenzo And, lastly, suffering of S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura, let them admire the mighty church, marked the which for twelve hundred has site of that little years built near the lowly catacomb chapel which Constantino grave in laid by his deacon which the martyr was Hippolytus. How Let us turn to a very different character Rienzi. vivid will his storyseem to those who go first to the old tower of the Crescenzi, the Bocca della Verity, which near belonged to his ancestors, and then to the street behind S. Tommaso, born where he was the son of a publican and a washerwoman, for to such humble offices were the Crescenzi then reduced. They will find Rienzi again at the little Church of S. Angelo in Pescheria, whither he summoned the citizens of the Good at midnight to hold a meeting for the re-establishment and in Ghost which he the of the Estate, kept Holy Vigil ; and at the Portico of Octavia, on whose ancient walls he paintedhis famous of the sufferings of the Romans under the oppressionof the allegory defiance thus in the eyes of the families, flaunting great patrician who could look down Savelli, upon the picture from the windows of their palace above At S. Giorgio in the Theatre of Marcellus. Velabro the pediment stillremains under the old terra-cotta cornice, where an inscription proclaimedthat the reign of the Good Estate
in

front

of the

"

"

begun. We must follow Rienzi thence,bare-headed, but in full to the Capitoland to the Lateran, where he took his mystic armour,
was

bath in the great vase of green basalt in which Constantino is falsely said to have been baptized. We think of his flight, must after his short-lived glorieswere of the the light burning palace, over, by down and of his wife looking out of the the steps of the Capitol, window his murder to witness at the foot of the great basaltic

14
which lioness,

Walks

in Rome

she was his body been so burnt by the and that, in strange contradiction, it was eventually of mausoleum desolate Jews in the then Augustus. with one It is by thus entwining the Roman sights another, till of links that continuous a the become they are best story, they fixed in the mind. They should also be read about, not merely in but in the works of those who, from long histories or guide-books, love which in Italy and the deep residence they bear to it,have Italian true the with The most important spirit. become impressed the 'Ancient are books on Roman Rome,' and still more subjects ' the Pagan and Christian Rome,' of Rudolfo Lanciani. Then, much readingmay be found in the many works of Gregorovius, delightful City of Rome ' to his enchanting Lateinfrom his historyof the ische Sommer,' and his graphic little sketches a propos of burialplaces of the popes. The writer has often been laughed at for and its recommending and quoting novels in speaking of Rome works there in few such glimpses of are interests. Yet graver
' '

older now than on the night on which looks scarcely with his blood. that Lastly,we may remember sprinkled stones of those the for whom he had a was by hung, target of in S. Marcello in the little piazza latelyadored, Corso,

Rome, of Roman be obtained, as

publishersso
' ' '

' in the Mori ; ' ' Daniella the of Ouida. has been written about Rome So much that,in quoting from the of others in these volumes, selection has always been the remarks and the rule has been followed that the most great difficulty, not always the most books instructive or the most are learned

character, Roman to manners, which Faun,' English foolishlycall 'Transformation;' in 'Mademoiselle Christian Andersen Improvisatore of Hans ; in Sand and the pagan-spiritedAriadne of George
scenery,
in

Roman

Hawthorne's
'

'Marble

interesting. It has been

reader
not

such

succession

of

sought to gather up from word-pictures

and present to the various authors as

of Rome more at the time, only make the scenes interesting may afterw^ards their but may impression endeavour has deepen ; but no to enter into deep archaeological been made to define the questions, Servius of of the wall to limits hazard a fresh exact Tullius,or in the Roman Forum, or opinionas to how the earth accumulated out of which the Monte the pottery came whence Testaccio has arisen. The best Roman archaeologyis that w^hich is unlimited as to grasp as much is allowed as it can of the myriad to ages, which which Rome has to offer human awaken or sympathies ; for thus, it do a great work, in arousinghighest thoughts and only thus, can and aims as it opens the ancient treasure-house, and teaches the than two thousand vast experience of more Then, as John years. describes Addington Symonds
"

You

from the very soil of silent Rome, shall grow live again wise, and, w.ilking, The lives of buried peoples, and become A child by right of that eternal home, Cradle and grave of empires,on whose walls The sun himself subdued to reverence falls.'
'

Then,

Introductory
'Rome,'
to
as

15

Winckelmann
It the
can

says, 'is the

high
mental

school

all the

world.*
at
'

supply every
corner

is open requirement if men

'

which

will

only apply said Goethe, people

right

out

of Rome

of the fountain. have no idea how one

Certainly,'
is schooled

has to be born again,so to speak, and one learns to there. One the one's old ideas as upon shoes of childhood,' look back upon those who have studied most are enjoy Rome homes. In the multiplicity it thoroughly before leaving their own of engagements in which is there is little a soon involved, foreigner and few do for historical able time to than read are more research, that half the and all the their so pleasure guide-books, advantage up
thrown those visit to Rome who arrive with are away ;" while the foundation already prepared,easilyand naturallyacquire,amid around which the historyof the world revolved,an amount the scenes

the travellers who Still,

of

of information The found pagan

ever

which
monuments

will be

astonishingeven
have been the

to themselves.

of Rome
were

written

of and have the

cussed dis-

since

they
and

built, and
less

catacombs

lately
later

historians

guides both
far

Christian

monuments There is a mind natural shrinking in the English Protestant from all that is connected with the story of the saints,especiallythe later saints Catholic Church. of the Roman Many believe,with Addison, that

able and willing; about has hitherto said. been

'the Christian
one

are antiquities

so

embroiled from

in fable and the the

to

legend, that
And
to

derives
as

but

little satisfaction from

searchinginto them.'
all that of those homes
to

yet,
can

Mrs.

Jameson
is taken

observes, when
away

controversialist

desire Roman touch much

the reminiscences consecrated

"

who,
of

the
to
so

Catholic much
;

mind, have
remains
so

their

how earthly life, the

! that

'so

much

awaken,
from

elevate,
;

heart

much

will not

fade

the memory

that may after-life.' make a part of our would to the uttermost, we If we must profitby Rome whether Catholic Roman all prejudices, or Protestant, and believe much that
is to be

put away
we

must

it is not learnt.

in

one

class who

of Roman

interests

alone

that

Those

devote

themselves

to exclusively

the relics of the

kings and the republic,to the walls, or the vexed the Porta Capena, and who interest in concerning see no questions and of the Middle the the reminiscences Ages Popes, take only half of the blessing of Rome, and the half which has the least of human sympathy in it. Archaeology and history should help the beauties of Rome to leave their noblest impress, in arousingfeelings worthy of the greatest of pagan heroes, of the noblest of Latin poets, of the most well as of Paul of Tarsus, as inspiredof sculptorsand painters, under into the Arch of who Rome the Drusus, upon whom passed of Caius Cestius fell as he passed out of Rome shadow of the tomb in that procession of which it is the sole surviving to his martyrdom
witness, and who, in Rome, is sleepingnow, with a thousand reminds S, Ambrose as there saints, till, us, he shall awaken
Great Resurrection. other
at the

CHAPTER

DULL-USEFUL

INFORMATION

The

Population
Yor Leone

of Rome

in

1891

was

432,658.
the The best Hotel
are :

Hotels."
Bocca Piazza Piazza

passing

travellers de

or

bachelors,
Corso.

Hotel
Russie

di

and Hotel de Londres, well-managed. The Hotel is very central. long residence, and The Hotel Naziin the Piazza is also di Spagna. Quirinale, in the Via Europa in Rome. the the station Facing onale, near railway station, is the largest hotel The Continentale. and fashionable Hotel is the large new luxurious, expensive, dei Termine. Hotel de' Monti, Hotel is in the is Piazza Grand Hassler, Trinita at the The back to be avoided. in a beautiful Hotel are situation, but the rooms The modern Via Settembre. is in the Venti but well-managed Royal expensive Barberini. Hotel Piazza The Hotel Porta Bristol is in the Eden, Via Pinciana,
for
a

Hotel ; and is very del Popolo) is snited di Spagna,

Rome,

de

d'Angleterre, (close to the

comfortable

is well

situated

between the the

the

old

and

new

town

streets. Due

The

Hotel

d'ltalie, Via

Quattro i'ontane, and and and reasonable,

stay.
Marini The
is in Hotel the

Hotel
former is at

Vittoria, Via is especially

the
corner

Molaro

noisy Via Tritone. Via the Prattina, Anglo-Americano, Piazza della Hotel Minerva, Minerva, The inn, but good and reasonable. also is the Hotel is a good inn : here
Pensions Piazza di
are

The
are near

comfortable Macelli, are very well and for a long suited managed Via of the The Hotel Gregoriana. Hotel Via d'Allemagne, Condotti, and much The frequented by Americans. the of a commercial is more Pantheon, Nazionale in the Piazza Monte Citorio

Hotel

Milano.
The best

much
;

wanted
Madame

in Lomi

Rome.

are

those

of

Miss

Smith,

93

Spagna
42 Piazza ;

Hayden,
73
Due

Macelli

Pension

du

Sud,

Tritone Xuovo (English), 36 Via ; Pension Poli Ludovisi Gianelli, Via Tellerabach, ; Madame ; Pension Madame Sistina Francjois, 47 Corso Michel, 72 Via ; Madame Babuino. Via Lombarda ; Bethell, 41 Via

small from

Apartments family
300 to

have
in 500
one

lately greatly
of the
a

increased
can

in

price.
seldom

An
be

apartment
obtained
for

for less

very

best

situations
The

than

neighbourhood

all prefer to reside almost in the English The situations best the Spagna. are sunny of the Piazza de' side Via the and Via itself, the Trinita Monti, Gregoriana, the Via Sistina. Less situations Due are good Corso, Via Condotti, Macelli, le Case, Via Via Via Quattro and Frattina, Capo Felice, Via Fontane, Babuino, Via Croce in which della In are last, however, good apartments. many very few the last have been for letting in the Via prepared apartments years many other the situation is most Nazionale and new streets, but undesirable, except of

francs

month.

the

Piazza

di

"

for of for

the
the

families Corso

of

artists of
rooms a

whose
are

studios much

are

in

that

direction. but
In In

On
are

the
not

other convenient

side

suites
who

less

expensive,
in Rome.

they
many
new

persons

make

short

residence

of

the

palaces
houses

are are

large

which the let by are apartments year. universally ill-built, ill-drained, and ill-ventilated.

the

town,

Carriaf/es."l
1 to 2-30 ; at

horse, the

course, 2-30
;

80

c.

; the 2

hour,

night,

130

to

with

horses,
Croce.

2 to

2 frs. ; at night, 1 to 2. Coup^, 3 ; at night, 250 to 3-50.

ReMattrants.--CorTadetti,

SI

Via

della
16

Inferior,

but

much

fre"iuented

Hints

for

Daily Life

17
;

Morteo, Piazza Colonna ; Falcone, 83 Via Monterone by Italians aiul by artists, 16 Via Marco Minghetti ; Eosetta, 31 Via Giustiniani. Marengo,
133 Cafes."Catfb di Roma, 428 Corso; Caffc d'ltalia, Via Condotti ; Caffi del Campidoglio,Piazza del Gesu.

Corso

; Caff^

Greco, 86

Trattorie send out dinners to families in apartments in a tin box with a stove, A dinner for six francs ought to for which the bearer calls the next morning. the next day. be sufficient for three persons, and to leave enough for luncheon

Bal)uino,on the left. Services at 8.30 A.M., 11 Sundays; daily service twice on week-days. AmeHcan A.M., and 3 P.M. on Via Nazionale. Tnnity Church, Piazza S. Silvestro. Presbyterian Church, Vaudois Church, Via Nazionale, opposite the Church, 7 Via Venti Settembre.

English Cfnirch."

In the Via

Theatre,
16 Society." EnglishArchaeological

Via dei Barberi. of S. Carlo in Corso.

Winter

Meetingsof Arcadia."

Convent

Omnibuses

start from" Piazza di Spagna to Piazza del Popolo to

Piazza S. Silvestro to Piazza Rienzi to Piazza Navona to Piazza Venezia to

(and vice versa). S. Pietro. Piazza Venezia, by the Corso. The Railway Station, by Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Barberini. Ponte Molle, by Via Flaminia (tramway). Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, by the Via Quattro I'ontane. Piazza S. Silvestro. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.
S. Pietro.

Piazza del Popolo, by the Ripetta. Piazza Cavour, Prati di Castello. Railway Station,by Via Nazionale (tramway). Via Cavour, S. J. Lateran (tramway). S. Paolo fuori le Mixra (tramway). Piazza Montanara to Via Porta S. Lorenzo, by the Pantheon. and Via Tritone. Piazza Cancellaria to Porta Pia, by Piazza Colonna of Trajan. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, by the Eorum Piazza S. Pantaleo, Coliseum, S. J. Lateran. Porta S. Pantaleo to by the Fountain of Trevi. Salaria, of Trajan and S. Giovanni Laterano, by the Forum the Coliseum. Piazza Termini, Cemetery of S. Lorenzo. of S. Apollinare to Piazza Guglielmo Pepe, by the Gesu, Forum Trajan, and the Monti. of Trajan to Forum Piazza dei Quiriti ai Prati,by the Via Botteghe Oscure, Ponte S. Angelo, and Porta Angelica. Via Quirinale to S. Agnese fuori le Mura. Piazza del Cinquecento to Cemetery of S. Lorenzo (tramway). The Steam

Tramivay
Porta

to Tivoli starts from" S. Lorenzo, Ist-class return,6 fr. 2nd-class return, 4-50 fr.

Via Torre Argentina ; !r/iea(?rs." Nazionale, Via Nazionale ; Argentina (opera), Via PallaFirenze ; Valle (comedy), Via della Valle ; Metastasio, corda; Manzoni, ViaUrl)ana; Quirino,Viadelle Vergine; Rossini (marionettes). Via di S. Chiara ; Correa, in the Mausoleum of Augustus, Via dei Pontiflci. Via Costanzi, Church Music"
on

to be heard

The best,except at the rare Sunday mornings at the German

services in the Sistine Chapel, is of S. Maria dell' Anima. Church The

meets
are

Foxhounds twice a week meet Piale's Library. Throw off at 11.

in the Campagna.

posted

at

for Society
VOL. I.

Prevention

of Cruelty to Animals."

\2 Via S. Giacomo.
B

18
Post

Walks
O^ce."
Piazza
S.

in Rome
to the 9 p.m. Corso.

close Silvestro,
1 p.m.
or

Letters
at 9

America'(on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, vm

posted at the head
office before

Havre,

for England p.m.)should

or

be

Yiazza Telegraph Office." British Embassy." British Consulate." American Amci-ican

S. Silvestro,

At Porta
98 Piazza
"

Pia, Via Venti Settembre.

S. Claudio.

Legation.
Consulate."

13 Via

Nazionale.

'Palazzo Amici, Via S. Susanna. di

S.

Bankers." Cook " Son, 1 Piazza di Spagna ; Sebaste " Reale, 20 Piazza " Schumacher, 3 Via del Mercede Spagna ; Nast-Kolb ; Plowden, 166 Piazza Claudio ; Franz Roesler, 96 Piazza S. Claudio.

for Ciistoms." Everything in regard to Custom duties is now arranged in Rome the minimum of profitto the State and the maximum of annoyance to travellers. The Italian theory that works of art l)elong of inherent right to the country where A permission created is carried to an excess which is ridiculous. they were from the Museo is necessary for every article of vertu which a foreigner who has been residing in Rome wishes to remove to his own country ; and a heavy duty is charged, even on every broken cup or plate taken out of Italy,to the ruin of the Antiquarii, trade in Rome. who formerly drove such a flourishing For sending Boxes Via Condotti. For
to

England." liemon,
to Royne."Titt

Piazza

di Spagna ; Franz

Roesler, 6A

sending out
"

Boxes

"

Scott,23

Cannon

Street,London.

Physicians.
Farina
way, 48
;

Drs.

Munthe,

Erhardt,
Via

20 Piazza

Condotti

23 Piazza della di Spagna ; Baccelli, 50 Monte di Spagna ; Mariotti, 12 Borgo Santo Spirito; SpurSettembre ; Young, 7 Via Venti ; Mayerhausen, 72 Via

Sistina. Skk Nurses

are

to be heard

are patients (without infectious disorders)

of at St. Paul's Home, 1 Via Palestro,where also received and nursed," a great boon to di Spagna ; Dr.

those taken Dentists." Chemists."

ill in hotels. J)v. Curtis,93 Piazza

Chamberlain, 37

Piazza

Poli.

Lucina 36 Piazza 'SuOhcrtB, Condotti, and ; Sininberghi,66 Via Via Babuino, are usually employed by English visitors ; but the Italian chemists' less expensive. shops in the Corso are as good, and much Homeopathic" k\Qov\, 8 Via Trattina,

Borioni,98

House

Agents." Contim,

6 Via

Condotti

Toti, 54 Piazza di Spagna.

Orders for Sketchingin the Forum, Palace of Caesars, and other ruins must be obtained at the office of the Guardians of the Scavi, 1 Via delle Miranda, (free) the left of the Forum, on

CirculatingLibrary." Viale,1 and 2 Piazza di Spagna, has a well-managed of Magazines and Reviews in libraryof 20,000 volumes, and a large assortment different languages. All new works are added on publication. The latest English telegrams are posted, and notices of the 'funzioni' are always to be found here. Miss Wilson, 22 Piazza di Spagna, has a small well-managed library.
Cook's

Agency."
"

2 Piazza

di Spagna,

Booksellers. Piazza di Spagna ; Piale,Piazza di Spagna ; Spithover, 308 Corso ; Bocca, 216 Corso ; Paravia,Piazza SS. Apostoli. Teachers

Loescher,
;

of Italian." I'rofessor Rosa Vagnozzi, 294 Via Cavour Pauloni, Via Aurelia ; Signor Genzardi, 16 Via dei Pontefici.
"

moiselle Made-

Livery Stables. Gasperini, Piazza Barberini ; Fenini, outside Palazzo Popolo ; Pieretti (riding-master), Rospigliosi,

Porta

del

Photographers."For
Via and

Portraits : Suscipi, 7 Via del Quirinale ; Le Lieure, 19 del Mortaro For Views ; Schemboche, 54 Via Mercede ; Alinari,89 Corso, Architectural Details: Moscioni, lOA Via Condotti,

20

Walks

in Eome

Uisco, Cesare, 4 Vicolo del Borghetto. Bompiani, 504 Corso. 33 Via Margutta. Cabianca, Vincenzo, landscapes, *Carlandi,Onorato, landscapes one of the best water-colour'artists in Europe, 2 to 5 on Thursdays, 33 Via INIargutta. Gives lessons. portraitsin pastel.Capo le Case. Christian, Coleman, Enrico, landscapes and animals, 33 Via Margutta. Augusto, figuresubjects in water-colours, 44 Via Flaminia. Corelli, Corrodi, 8 Via degli Incurabile. Costa, Prof. Nino, portraitsand landscapes, 33 Via Margutta. Ferrari,Giuseppe, figuresand portraitsin water-colours,57 Via Margutta. *Eranz Roesler, Ettore" admirable in water colours" 96 S. Claudio. Garelli" a first-rate copyist" Galleryof the Capitol. Haseltine, J. H., Palazzo Altieri. Moris, Pio" admirable for figuresubjects" 46 Via Flaminia. 15 Via dei Greci. Meadows, Miss, portraits, Morani, Alessandro, decorative art, 44 Via Flaminia. 13 Circo Agonale. Podesti, Prof.,historic and saci'ed subjects in oil and fresco, for portraits in oil and pastel, 13 Vicolo S. Nicolo *Da da Pozzo, admirable
"

"

Tolentino.

Ladies' class three

times

week.

Raggio, Giuseppe, landscapes and animals, 4 Via Tomacelli. 33 Via Margutta. Rossi-Scotti, Lemmo, landscapes and figures, Santoro, 13 Via S. Basilio. Prof. Ludovico, sacred and decorative art,fresco, 6 Piazza dei Cappucini. *Seitz, Via Babuino. 56 Serra, Siemiradtski, Prof. large oil compositions, Castro Pretorio. 48 Via Margutta. Vannutelli, Prof. Scipione, portraitsand figures,
,

Studios." Sculptors' Via Flaminia. Biggi, Giovanni, for portraits, Cencetti,Adalberto, 105 Via Flaminia. Dies, 154 Via Quattro Fontane. Ezechiel, 18 Piazza dei Termini. 504 Corso. Fabj, Altini, works, 10 Via Privata, Porta Salara. Ferrari,Ettore, monumental Kauer, 6 Passeggiata di Ripetta. *Kopf, 54 Via Margutta. *Monteverde, 8 Piazza dell' Indipendenza. Rosa, Prof. Ercole, R. Istituto delle Belle Arti. Rogers, 53b Via Margutta. Russo, 39 Via Flaminia. Simmons, 73 Via S. Nicolo di Tolentino. *Story,Waldo, 7 Via S. Martino. 10 Via dei Greci. Strolin, Tadolini, 150 Babuino.

It is
in Rome

for impossible
to see
a

tenth

traveller who spends only a week or ten which it contains. part of the sights
:
"

days
haps Per-

the most

important objectsare

S. John Churches." 8. Peter's, Lateran, S. Maria Maggiore, S. Lorenzo fuori le Paolo fuori le Mura, S. Agnese fuori le Mura, Ara Coeli,S. Clemente, S. Pi-assede and S. PudeuS. Pietro in Montorio, S. Pietro in Vincoli, S. Saljina, tiana, S. Gregorio, S. Stefano Rotondo, S. Maria sopra Minerva, S. Maria del

Mxira, S.

Popolo.
PaZoces. "Vatican, Capitol, Barberini, and and Spada. Rospigliosi, if possible, Corsini, Colonna,Doria,

Villas." Doria,Borghese.
jRutTis." Palace of the Caesars, Temples in Forum, Coliseum, and the ruins in the former Ghetto and the Baths of Caracalla.
if

possible,

Sight-Seeing
It is desirable to his at once

21

is pressed for time to apply for tlie traveller who for orders for any sightsfor which banker they will scheme The a are following give good necessary at the time. and its neighbourhood in a few days. The general idea of Rome sightsprintedin italics can only be seen on the days to which they
are

ascribed

"

Ara Coeli,General General view of Capitol, Gallery of Sculptures, iVo/uirt?/." and drive out to the of Forum, Coliseum, S. John Lateran (with cloisters), Via Latina and the aqueducts at Tavolato.
view

Tuesday." Morning
:

S. Peter's and the Vatican

villaAlbani

open), S. Agnese, and drive (if

Stanze and Pinacoteca. to the Ponte Nomentano.

noon After-

noon Maggiore. AfterWed-msday."Movnmg : S. Prassede, S. Pudentiana, S. Maria Garden, English Cemetery, S. Paolo and the Tre : S. Sabina, Priorato Fontane.

Thtirsday." Morning

Appia

as

far

as

Torre
:

Mezza

Afternoon the Via Palace of the Caesars. : drive on Strada ; in returning, see the Baths of Caracalla.

Friday." Morning
Cecilia ; and end

Palazzo

Spada, the Temple

at S. Pietro

in the

afternoon

of Vesta, cross the Tiber to S. and the Villa Doria in Montorio

(or on
Rocca

Monday).
"

Drive to Frascati early,take donkeys, by Frascati and Albano. return at the Temple, and Cavo ; take luncheon di I'apa, to Monte by the carriage and the upper and lower Galleries to Albano, whither Palazzuolo in the Drive back to Eome should be sent on to wait at the Hotel de la Poste.

Saturday.

evening. S^lnday." Morning

:

S. Maria

del Popolo

S. Peter's again ; drive to Monte Mario (Villa Madama), or and end with the Pincio and Trinita de' Monti.

after English Church. Afternoon : in the Villa Borghese, Villa d'

2nd

Monday."

Go

to Tivoli

and (theCascades, Cascatelle,

Este).

: S. Gregorio, S. 2nd Tueaday." Morning : Vatican Sculptures. Afternoon stefano llotondo, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Vincoli, S. Maria degli Angeli, S. fuori le Mura, and drive out to the Torre dei Schiavi, returning by the Lorenzo

Porta

Maggiore.
:

2nd Wednesday." Morning Gardens. Afternoon : Forum Coliseum. 2nd

and Colonna Palazzo Barberini,Palazzo Rospigliosi the and ascend in detail, SS. Cosmo e Damiano,

Sistine Chapel, S. Onofrio, and the Passeggiata : The Thursday "Morning The Afternoon : pictures at the Villa Borghese. Margherita.

be useful as a guide to some of the best may draw at wish and to for who have artists not much Rome, subjects time to search for themselves. Many of these spots,however, have them before the Sardinian lost the great beauty which distinguished in mentioned of these volumes, editions earlier occupation. Many, The

followinglist

are

destroyed. utterly
Arch
of Constantino

Morning Light :
from the Coliseum
Coliseum from l)ehind S. Francesca Roniana Views from the Palace of Severus. Arch of Septimius Severus, Foro Romano. In the Garden of SS. Giovanni e Paolo. of S. Buonaventura. In the Garden

(early). (early).

In the Colonna

Gardens.

22
From

Walks

in Rome

the door of the Villa Medici. behind the Tor di Nona. At S. Cosimato (much spoilt). The of Ara bacli entrance Coeli (early). From of Ara Coeli. entrance the back

Courtyard

Fountain, Piazza S. Pietro. the Fontana Tartarughe. Courtyard near Looking to the Arch of Titus up the Via Sacra.
In
At

the

Cloister

of the

Lateran.

S. Cesareo.

Porta

Porta Near
On

S. Sebastiano Latina.

(inner view).

the Temple of Bacchus. the Via Appia, beyond Cecilia Mezza

Metella.

Strada, on the Via Appia. Sacer Ponte Nomentano, looking to the Mons Torre dei Schiavi, looking towards Tivoli. at Tavolato. Aqueducts

Torre

(injured).

Evening Light
From On On

the the the

Terrace of

Palace Palace of the

of Domitian"

Doria (S. Peter's). looking to S. Balbina (injured.) Caligula" looking to the Coliseum (injured).

of the

Villa

Apse
Garden Garden
In

of SS.

the Cloister

e Paolo. Villa Mattel. of the Priorato. Villa Borghese" several

Giovanni

subjects.

S. Cosimato.

dei Schiavi, looking towards Torre Rome. Via Latina, looking towards the Aqueducts. Via Latina, looking towards Rome.

Towers On Via

of Cerbara

and

Appia, beyond

Cervaletto. Cecilia Metella.

The The is

months

of November

and

December

are

the best

for

drawing.

colouring is then

magnificent
and

; it is enhanced

decaying vegetation,

the shadows

generally cold for sittingout, and end of March the vegetation is often so far advanced that the Alban have retained Hills, which glorious sapphire and amethyst tints all the into winter, change English downs commonplace ; while green from and the crimson Campagna, gold of its dying thistles and becomes finochii, a lovely green plain waving with flowers.

by the tints of the are strong and clear. January February wet ; and before the

of the native custom much too Foreigners are apt to follow driving constantly in the Villa Borghese, the Villa Doria, and on the Pincio, and getting out to walk For there during their drives. those who do not care world, a delightful always to see the human
it is a most be found variety of drives can agreeable plan for ; and to the to take a course invalids, without carriages of their own, Parco di San Gregorio, or the Passeggiata Margherita, and walk there instead of on the Pincio. A carriage for the return always be may
'
'

found

at

the

Coliseum

or

in the

Trastevere.

CHAPTER

II

THE

CORSO

AND

ITS

NEIGHBOURHOOD

The
"

Piazza

del

Popolo"
de'

Obelisk"

S. Maria

del Via
e

(Via Babuino" SS. Rocco Propaganda)" (Via Ripetta" S. Giaconio voni) degli Incurabili
Monti)"
"
" "

Trinita

Popolo" (The Pincio" Piazza Margutta"

S.
"

Villa di

Medici

Martino"

Girolanio Palazzo delle Citorio" Sciarra-

Via

Vittoria

Mausoleum
"

S. Carlo
in

in

Corso"

Via
S.

Condotti
in

"

Palazzo

Borghese
S. Andrea
of

Spagna" degli Schiaof Augustus S. Huspoli

"

Lorenzo

Lucina"

Silvestro

Capite

"

Fratte" The Doria

of

Palazzo

Colonna" Palace Chigi" Piazza of Trevi" Fountain Neptune" S. Marcello S. Ignazio" -S.
"

and Palazzo Maria

Obelisk
Pollin

Monte

Temple
Caravita Pamfili"
SS.

of

Palazzo Lata"
Palazzo

Via

Palazzo di of

Palazzo toli" Torlonia" Altieri.

Salviati" Palazzo

Palazzo de

Odescalchi" Palazzo Barberi"

Palazzo

Colonna" Church

Church

Apos-

Savorelli-

Bonaparte"
S. Marco"

Venezia" II Gesu"

Palazzo

Ripresa

Palazzo

THE
will go

first

object of
and the look Corso

every

traveller thence do

will upon

naturally
ancient

be

to

reach
as

the he
its

Capitol,
down

down
to

Rome

; but

this,

and

must

daily pass
of those

most

of

surrounding
will,
A
ere

buildings, we the long, become stranger's first lesson

in

will most

first

speak

objects
should be

which

familiar.
Roman

in

topography
three

learnt off
"

standing
the

the in the

Piazza

del

Popolo, whence
towards

streets

branch

which Capitol, beyond Rome the lies ancient Piazza the the Babuino, on left, leading to ; the and di Spagna the the English Ripetta, on quarter; right, is one The leading to the Castle of S. Angelo and S. Peter's. scene from well known The between the pictures and engravings. space is occupied by twin streets Gastaldi. churches, erected by Cardinal

Corso,

centre,

leading

the

'

Les

deux du

I'entrue senti
C'est

eglises 61evees d'un Corso, sont

faut
pas Clever

i\ la effet
une

Place mediocre.

du

Peuple
Comment

par

le
un

Cardinal cardinal

Gastaldi n"a-t-il
pas

(lu'ilne
ravaler

6glise

poure

faire

pendant

il queltiue

chose

la majeste
are

Civv'me.'"Stemihal,
believed died
at

i. 172.

These tomb Rome

masses

churches of

Sulla, who
a

to occupy Puteoli B.C.

at

the

site of the but

was

magnificent
honoured ladies
at

82,
the

with

public funeral,
and

which
on

patrician
pyre.

burnt

of incense Obelisk
V.

perfumes
Piazza
was

his

funeral

The Sixtus

of the

in of
was

1589, but

in honour 'Apollo

Apollo
the
;

by the
of

Popolo was placed on originally brought to Rome Emperor Augustus.

spot
it
was

del

this and

site

by

erected

patron

the

which

victory
for

of Actium
on

Apollo

himself,

had given had proclaimed,

same

name

to for

the Rome had

great
and

fought

Octavius

that

auspicious

day

; the 23

Apollo,

the

Sun-god,

ahud-

24

Walks

in Rome

of the Dictator, and terrified the nations at the murder dered in his bright career of 'besides building a divine countenance.' the his Therefore, by eclipse the Emperor Augustus sought to honour temple to Apollo on the Palatine hill, under him l)ytransplanting to the Circus Maximus, the sports of which were his specialprotection,an obelisk from Heliopolis,in Egypt. This flame-shaped column and originallybore was a l)lazingorb upon its a symbol of the sun, motive for the firstintroduction summit. It is interestingto trace an intelligible into Europe of these grotesque and unsightlymonuments of Eastern tion.' superstiMeHvale, ' Uist. of the Romans.'
.

"

in Rome, rises in the centre of This red granite obelisk,oldest of things,even works and ruins piazza, with a fourfold fountain at its base. All Roman distant kings) (whether of the empire, the far-off republic, or the still more assume a transient, a visionary and impalpable character when we think that this indestructible monument supplied one of the recollections which Moses and the Israelites bore from Egypt into the desert. Perchance, on beholding the cloudy pillarand fierycolumn, they whispered awe-stricken to one another, " In its shape it is like that old obelisk which we and our fathers have so often seen the l)orders of the Nile." And now that very obelisk,with hardly a trace of on traveller sees after entering the decay upon it,is the first thing that the modern Flaminian Gate.'" Hawthorne's ^Transformation.'
'

the

at the foot of what was It was the left of the piazza, even on called 'the Hill of Gardens,' that Nero was buried (a.d.68).
*

then

When Nero was dead, his nurse Ecloge,with Alexandra and Acte, the famous with concubine, having wrapped his remains in rich white stuff,embroidered in the Campus is seen gold, deposited them in the Domitian monument, which of porphyry, having an altar The tomb Martins, under the Hill of Gardens. was of Luna marble, suiTounded by a balustrade of Thasos ma.Th\e.'" Suetonius.

tradition tells that from the tomb of Nero afterwards grew the resort of innumerable a walnut-tree, which became gigantic to become as crows so numerous quite a pest to the neighbourhood. In the eleventh century, Pope Paschal II. dreamt that these crows him to cut were demons, and that the Blessed Virgin commanded and burn the tree ('albero malnato down and build a '), sanctuary in its place. A church to her honour of then built by means was which it a collection amongst the common people ; hence the name stillretains of ' S. Mary of the People.' rebuilt by Baccio Pintelli for Sixtus IV. S. Maria del Popolo was in 1480. As the favourite burial-place came of the Eovere family,it beIt of renaissance modernised Bernini a museum was art. by for Alexander it was VII. (Fabio Chigi, 1655-67), of whom the it of beautiful but stillretains family burial-place, fragments many is a fine work door of the nave fifteenth-century (the principal and of its interior is a museum example of this) sculpture ; perfect and painting.Here Lucrezia Borgia, daughterof Pope Alexander VI., returned publicthanks, at the age of twenty-two, for her betrothal to her third husband, Alfonso d'Este. Entering the church by the west door, and followingthe right the first chapel (Venuti,formerly della Rovere^) is adorned aisle, with Over the altar is the exquisite paintingsby Pinturicchio. of the most beautiful frescoes in the city) Nativity(one ; in the Church
"

Observe
an

here

and

Robur,

oak," hence

elsewhere Rovere.

the

arms

of the

Delia

Rovere"

an

oak

tree.

S. Maria

del Popolo

25

Cardinal Cristoforo from the life of S. Jerome. lunettes are scenes built this and dedicated it to * the Virgin della Rovere, who chapel and S. Jerome,' is buried on the left, in a grand fifteenth-century Both of Cardinal di Castro. tomb ; on the right is the monument and of these tombs others in this church have interesting and many of Child. varied lunettes the and greatly Virgin of neroThe second chapel,of the Cibo family, rich in pillars has an antico and jasper, altar-piece representingthe Assumption of the Virgin, by Carlo Maratta. In the cupola is the Almighty, surrounded by the heavenlyhost.^ della Rovere, The third chapel is the oratory erected by Giovanni decorated Duke of Sora and Sinigaglia, for his burial-place, and after his death by Pinturicchio, for his bi'other Domenico. Over the altar are the Madonna the Father, and four saints ; above, God in the life of surrounded scenes by angels. In the other lunettes, the Virgin: that of the Virginstudyingin the Temple, a very rare is especially beautiful. In a frieze round the lower part of subject, the wall is a series of martyrdoms in grisaille. On the right is the tomb della Rovere, ob. 1485. of Giovanni On the left is a fine bronze figure of a bishop,unknown. sleeping The fourth chapel has a fine fifteenth-century altar-relief of S. Catherine between S. Anthony of Padua and S. Vincent. On the right is the tomb of Marc-Antonio Albertoni,ob. 1485 ; on the left, that of Cardinal Costa, of Lisbon, ob. 1508, erected in his lifetime. In this tomb is an especially beautiful lunette of the Virgin adored

by angels. the rightis the tomb of Cardinal on Entering the righttransept, Podocantharus of Cyprus, a very fine specimen of fifteenth-century
door near this leads into a cloister, where is preserved, over a door, the gothic altarpiece of the church of Sixtus IV., the Coronation of the Virgin, and two fine tombs representing Archbishop Rocca, ob. 1482, and Bishop Gomiel. The choir (shown when there is no service)has a ceilingby
A
"

work.

della Rovere. In the centre are by the Evangelistsand Sibyls;in the corners, the Fathers of the Church Gregory, Ambrose, Jerome, and Augustine. Beneath the tombs of Cardinal Ascanio Sforza are and Cardinal Girolamo Basso, nephews of Sixtus IV. (Francesco della Rovere),beautiful works of A nclrea di Sansovino. These tombs erected at the expense of Julius II., were himself a Delia Rovere, who also gave the windows, painted by Claude and Guillaume de the Marsedles, only good specimens of stained glass in Rome. Vasari regards the figure of Temperance, over of the tombs, one ' as and to perfection the spirit something quite divine, possessing of the antique.' The high-altar is surmounted by a miraculous image of the Virgin,
"

Pinturicchio, painted for Giuliano the Virgin and Saviour, surrounded

ITie beautiful

of four

virgin saints,and

Trastevere, was

of Cardinal used as the reredos of brought from this chapel.

tomb flfteenth-centuiy

Cibo,adorned
an

altar

at

S. Cosimato

with statuettes in

26

Walks

in Rome
"

which was inscribed,'Tu honorificentia populi nostri,' placed in and which, having been this church by Gregory IX, successfully in the great plague of 1578, was, till invoked' by Gregory XIII. who 1870, annually adored by the pope of the period, prostrated the 8th of September, The chapel on the himself before it upon left of this has an Assumption, by Annihale Caracci. of Cardinal Bernardino In the left transept is the tomb Lonati, r elief of the Resurrection. fine with a fifteenth-century the last chapel but one is that of Returning by the left aisle, the Chigi family,in which the famous banker, Agostino Chigi (who is buried,and in which is represented built the Farnesina), Raffaelle and an architect. He planned the at once a sculptor, as a painter, chapel itself ; he drew' the strange design of the mosaic on the which representsan extraordinary out by Aloisio delta Pace), (carried ceiling of Paganism and ChristianityMercury, Venus, mixture and Saturn conducted Mars, Jupiter, (as the planets), by angels, and with Jehovah modelled and he surrounding being represented ; the beautiful statue of Jonah seated on the whale, which was tured sculpartist sculptured the in the marble by Lorenzetto. The same and those of Daniel Habbakuk Bernini. of Elijah being by figure It is interestingto mark that, in the figureof Jonah, RaffaeUe
'

"

"

ideal of a bearded the prophetic in a mantle, figure the beautiful nude and took as his model figure of the youthful himself who to a voluntarydeath by water for Antinous, gave up the and his master State, as Jonah for the vessel and its crew.^ The figure was sculpturedfrom marble plundered from the temple Pollux. The altar-piece of the chapel,representing and of Castor is a fine work of Sehastiano del Piombo, the Nativity of the Virgin, in this church, near which he lived, and died of a is buried who June 1547. He (SebastianoLuciani)had received the sinecure fever, joining from Clement On the pier adVII. in 1531. office of the Piombi of is the Posi this chapel a by (1771) strange monument at the age of Princess Odescalchi Chigi,who died in childbirth, twenty, erected by her husband, who describes himself 'in solitu-

departed from

dine et luctu superstes.' and The last chapel contains two fine fifteenth-century ciboria, 1507. the tomb of Cardinal Antonio Pallavicini, is the remarkable entrance On the left of the principal ment monuthe companion and friend of Casimir I. of Gio. Batt. Gislenus, scribed inof Poland (ob.1670). At the top is his portraitwhile living, of medallion vivas then hie a a chrysalis, In Neque ; ' is of a butterfly to which nidulo meo moriar ; opposite a medallion ' ' dies is hideous below Phoenix Ut : a multiplicabo emerging,
' ' '

' skeleton of gialloantico in a white marble winding-sheet, Neque hie mortuus.' Non v' accorgete voi che noi siam vernii Nati a formar 1' angelica farfalla Che vola alia giustizia scherini ? senza Dante, Purg. x. 124.
'
'
"

See Viktor

Rydberg'sRoman

Days.

28

Walks

in Rome

and swelled outward, like a huge bubble,to the utmost imaginations scope of our view long before we see it floatingover the worship of the city. At any nearer the grandeur of S. Peter's hides itself behind the immensity of its separate parts, ness so that we only see the front,only the sides,only the pillared length and loftiof the portico,and not the mighty whole. But at this distance the entire outline of the world's cathedral,as well as that of the palace of the world's chief priest, In such remoteness, moreover, is taken in at once. the imagination from is not debarred while we have the reality even rendering its assistance, of human before our eyes, and helping the weakness to do justice to so sense grand an object. It requires both faith and fancy to enal)le us to feel,what is is nevertheless so true,that yonder, in front of the purple outline of the hills, the grandest edifice ever built by man, painted against God's loveliest sky.'" Hawthorne.

tender green of the Prati Cincinnati, from Peter's time extended S. the then to that up noble cypresses of the Porta del Popolo, have been effaced,and the most interestingview in the world has been spoiltby the in the worst erection of a succession of hideous stuccoed buildings road of unparalleled styleof Chicago,and a straight Every ugliness. band the the on afternoon, except Friday, Pincio, when plays life. crowds immense often collect, showing every phase of Roman which
to

Since 1880 the long lines and

be seen in what the terrace may and Thackeray calls a fashionable halo of sunset pink parasols ' Ave-Maria bell the but all the from to as rings begin disperse ; Benediction either descend hear into the to to churches, city,or It is Miss
on

Sunday especiallythat
'

sung

by

the

nuns

in the Trinita de' Monti.

' When the fashionable hour of rendezvous arrives,the same spot, which a few before in silence and solitude,changes as it were with minutes immersed was is the rapidity of a scene The scene in a pantomime to an animated panorama. rendered not a little ludicrous representation of the King in by the miniature of the carriage-driveis An entire revolution Hyde Park in a small compass. as near as may be, and the perperformed in the short period of three minutes petual of the same occurrence carriages trotting physiognomies and the same of the proand round for two round successive hours, necessarilyreminds one ceedings of a country fair, Sir G. Head's and children whirling in a roundabout.' 'Tour in Rome.'
"

'"The Pincian Hill" is the favourite promenade of the Roman aristocracy. it belongs less At the present day, however, like most other Pi,oman possessif)ns, from to the native inhabitants than to the barbarians Gaul, Great Britain, and all that is beyond the sea, who have established a peaceful usurpation over in the Eternal enjoyable or memorable City. These foreign guests are indeed Holy ungrateful if they do not breathe a prayer for Pope Clement, or whatever and Father it may have been, who levelled the siunmit of the mount so skilfully, laid out those broad walks bounded it with the parapet of the city wall ; who kinds of trees; who and drives, and overhung them with the shade of many those scattered the flowers of all seasons, and of every clime, abundantly over smooth central lawns ; who scooped out hollows in fit places, and, settinggreat of marble in them, caused basons ever-gushing fountains to fill them to the reared brim ; who obelisk out of the soil that had long the immemorial up and covered hidden it ; who placed pedestals along the borders of the avenues, of worthies" them with busts of that multitude statesmen, heroes, artists,men world wliom the whole claims as its chief ornaments, of letters and of song" all. In a word, the Pincian garden is one of though Italy has produced them

things that reconcile the stranger (sincehe fullyappreciates the enjoyment, feels nothing of the cost) to the rule of an irresponsibledynasty of Holy arrived at making life as agreeable an affair as it to have Fathers, who seem
the

and

could

well be.

The

Pincio

29

bench in the treacherous marble 'Here sits (drooping upon some sunshine) whose friends have ])roughther, for a cure, into a climate tlie consumptive girl, that instils poison into its very purest breath. Here, all day, come nurseiywith rosy English babies, or guiding the footsteps of little muids, burdened world. travellers from the far western Here, in the sunny afternoon, roll and from the cardinal's old-fashioned and gorgeous all kinds of carriages, rumble Here of modern date. horsemen gallop imrple carriage to the gay barouche on thoroughbred steeds. Here, in short, all the transitorypopulation of Rome, tiful the world's great watering-place,rides,drives,or promenades : here are beauturn sunsets scenes as well you your eyes, are way ; and here, whichever and for their historical interest, that worth gazing at, both in themselves as any the sun and set upon. ever rose Here, too, on certain afternoons in the week, a the poor old city, floodingher with over military band flingsout rich music echoless strains as loud as those of her own triumphs.' Hawthorne.
"

deroulait une des vues De cette terrasse admirable, tres haute, tres large, se Au dela du Tibre, par-dessus le chaos batard les plus merveilleuses de Rome. entre les verdes Pres du Chateau, se dressait Saint-Pierre, du nouveau dures "iuartier du mont Mario et du Janicule. Puis, c'^tait a gauche toute la vieille ville, roulante d'edifices, etendue de toits sans a perte de une vue. homes, une mer tronant dans I'azur, d'une Mais les regards,toujours, revenaient a Saint-Pierre, grandeur pure et souveraine, et de la terrasse,au fond du ciel immense, les ientscouchers du soleil, derriere le colosse,etaient sublimes.'" Zo^a.
'

It was The garden of the Pincio is very small. laid out early till 1812, having in the nineteenth century by Valadier,the hills, been occupied by the Vigna dei Frati del Popolo (Augustinian monks), from which two old umbrella pinesremain near the central At a crossways is placed an Obelisk, brought fountain of Moses. the late discoveries in hieroglyphics from Egypt, and which show of Hadrian to have been erected there,in the joint names and his Sabina, to their beloved Antinous, who was drowned in the empress The casino occupies part of the site of the palace Nile A.u. 131. and beneath of the Anicii, it is a vast ancient piscina. the farthest angle of the garden we From look down upon the of wall known the Muro-Torto, as which, in all strange fragment the different restorations of the walls, even in that under Pius IX., because has never been restored, it is believed that this corner is under the especial of the Apostle Peter, and that he protection defended it in person during the siegeby Vitiges.
' offrc un Le Muro-Torto curieux. On souvenir ainsi un nomme de pan muraille qui, avant de faire partie du rempart d'Honorius, avait servi h soutenir la terrasse du jardin de Domitius, et qui,du temps de Belisaire, etait deja incline il Test aujomxi'hui. Procope raconte Belisaire vovdait le rebatir, comme que mais que les Romains Ten erapechcrent,affirmant que ce point n'etaitpas expose, Procope ajoute : "Personue parce que Saint Pierre avait promis de le dofendre. n'a os6 reparer etat." et il reste encore dans le meme Nous pouvons ce mur, en dire autant "iue Procope, et le mur, dotache de la coUine h laquelleil s'appuyait, reste encore incline et semble Ce detail du siege de Rome est pros de tomber. conflrmo I'aspect singulier du Muro-Torto, qui semble par toujours pres de etat depuis quatorze si6cles, tomber, et sul)siste dans le meme s'il 6tait comme soutenu On miraculeusement de Saint Pierre. ne saurait gu6re par la main trouver I'autorit^ temporelle des papes meilleur un pour symhole.'" Ampere, Emx). ii.397.

At the farthest point of the Pincio, from the parapet upon yo\i look down the Muro-Torto, a massive fragment of the oldest Roman wall, which juts over, down as if ready to tumble still the most weight, yet seems by its own structible indepiece of work that men's hands ever piled together. In the blue distance rise Soracte and other heights, which have gleamed afar,to our imagina-

'

30

Walks

in Rome

about so tion, but look scarcelyreal to our bodily eyes, because being dreamed taken aiirial tints which belong only to a dream. These, much, they have of hills that shut in Home and its broad nevertheless,are the solid framework surrounding Campagna : no land of dreams, but the broadest page of history, that one obliterates another, as if Time events crowded full with memorable so records till they grew Haivthorne. had crossed and recrossed his own illegible.'"

A votive marble tablet recently discovered proves that the Pincio the of Anicii famous the formed Glabriones,which gardens part of and garden also comprised the site of the Villa Medici, the convent half the Villa Borghese. This family was of the Trinita, and from the time of the battle of Thermoin Roman famous pylae, history in which the consul Acilius Glabrio (B.C.191) defeated King His the consul of 67, commander-inAntiochus. great-grandson, is better known chief in the Mithridatic the praetor as war, who urbanus presided (B.C.70) over the impeachment of Verres. of the family appears eleven times in In imperialtimes the name consulares. That members of the the fasti family early embraced of Manius Christianityis proved by the discovery of the tomb Acilius Verus and Acilia Priscilla (son and daughter of Manius Acilius consul Glabrio),
A.d.

152,in the Catacomb

in mediaeval

family of Frangipani, celebrated direct descent from the Anicii.

of Priscilla. The history,claimed

the farther part of the hill, In early imperial times on beyond villa of Lucullus, who the Trinita,was the famous had gained his wealth as general of the Roman armies in Asia. enormous
The life of Lucullus was like an ancient comedy, where first Ave see gi-eat actions,both politicaland military,and afterwards feasts, debauches, races by For among frivolous amusements torchlight,and every kind of frivolous amusement. I cannot but reckon his sumptuous villas, walks, and baths ; and still he collected at the paintings,statues, and other works of art which more so fortune he amassed immense them the vast idlysquandering expense, away upon in the wars. Insomuch that now, when luxury is so much advanced, the gardens
of Lucullus rank with those of these.' Plutarch. even
"

'

of the

and kings,

are

esteemed

the most

magnificent

Lucullus villa, gave his celebrated feast to Cicero and Pompey, merely mentioning to a slave beforehand that he should sup in the hall of Apollo, which was understood as a command Lucullus the and beautiful villa belonged to Valerius Asiaticus, in the reign of Claudius was his She suborned coveted third Messalina. by wife, her son's tutor,to accuse Asiaticus of a licentious life and of Silius, the corrupting army.
to prepare
was

Here, in his Pincian

all that

most

sumptuous.

After

counsel of his friends to starve for the chance of pardon ; and after the lofty fashion of the ancient Romans, bathed, perfumed, and supped Before magnificently, and then opened his veins, and let himself bleed to death. dying he inspected the pyre prepared for him in his own gardens, and ordered it to be removed to another spot, that an umbrageous plantation which overhung it might not be injured by the flames. ' As soon she heard of his death, Messalina as took possession of the villa, and held high revel there with her numerous lovers,with the most favoured of whom, she had actually gone Silius, through the religiousrites of marriage in the lifethe
a himself, course

Being condemned

to which

death, he

'

declined
an

might leave

interval

The

Villa

Medici

31

the But a conspiracy among at Ustia. absent who was Llie emperor, "'i uiiic of what was the emperor taking place, the royal houselioUl informed freedmenof of her enormities. an)Usod to a sense Claudius was and at hist even " ports. In her suburban.palace,Messalina was abandoning herself to voluptuous transpress in full progress, the winemid-autumn The season was ; the vintage was with scanty women the was girt streaming; ruddy juice was groaning, with her : while she herself, around Bacchanals drunken danced fawnskins as her hair loose and disordered,brandislied the thyrsus in the midst ; and Silius by with ivy, tossed his head to the flaunting strains and crowned her side,buskined less fortunate of Silenus and the Satyrs. Vettius,one, it seems, of the wanton's a loftytree in the and climbed in merriment attended the ceremony, paramours, from awful storm Ostia;" he saw, he replied,"an asked what garden. When the words whether were or there was and whether actuallysuch an appearance, of the catastrophe accepted afterwards as an omen spoken at random, they wote followed. which (luickly ' For now, in the midst of these wanton quickly spread,and orgies,the rumour it all, knew that Claudius that to Claudius confirm arrived it, swiftlymessengers The lovers his way to Rome, and was was on coming in anger and vengeance. for the shade of her and the tribunals ; Messalina part : Silius for the Forum Once Asiaticus. gardens on the Pincio, the price of the blood of tlie murdered the empress attempted to go forth to meet Claudius, taking her children with she persuaded her, and accompanied by Vibidia,the eldest of the vestal virgins,whom to her prevented her gaining access to intercede for her ; but her enemies satisfied for the moment husband by vague promises of a later was ; Vibidia cipal hearing ; and upon the arrival of Claudius in Home, Silius and the other prinStill Messalina hoped. She had were lovers of the empress put to death. withdrawn again to the gardens of LucuUus, and was there engaged in composing her pride and long-accusto lier husband, in which of supplication tomed addresses stillpaltered insolence still faintlystruggled with her fears. The emperor He had retired to his palace ; he had bathed, anointed, and with the treason. with wine and generous lain down to supper ; and, warmed cheer, he had actually the her come he called to the as her,bidding creature, a j^oor despatched message But her enemy before him. Narcissus,knowing how next day and plead her cause from compassion to love,glided from the chamber, and easy might be the passage centurions to go and slay his victinj. " Such," Iwldly ordered a tribune and some " tation. the emperor's command was he said, was obeyed without hesi; and his word the armed men Under the direction of the freedman sought Euodus, she lay prostrate on the ground, by the side of the outcast in her gardens,where had existed their fortunes lier mother flourished,dissensions Lepida. While in her last distress, the mother had refused to desert the two ; but now between " to a voluntary death. her resolution Life," her child,and only strove to nerve But it." look exit remains but for from to a decent she urged, "is over ; nought the soul of the reprobate was corrupted by her vices : she retained no sense of sudand gi-oan as if hope still existed ; when to weep honour ; she continued and his swordsmen burst open, the tribune appeared before denly;the doors were and assailed her, dumb-stricken as she lay, with contumelious her, and Euodus tion, of her desperate condiat last to the consciousness brutal reproaches. Roused of the men's from hands and pressed it trembling one she took a weapon resolution wanted to give the thrust, Still she her and bosom. throat against and it was finally by a blow of the tribune's falchion that the horrid deed was avenged on the very spot; the hot accomplished. The death of Asiaticus was of his gardens, and stained with the pavement smoked blood of the wanton on ' Hist, of the Romans of Lucullus. '"3feri{;a^e, a deeper hue the variegated marbles xcnder the JSvijnre.'
"

the garden of the Pincio a terraced road (beneath which From of S. Felix)leads to the Villa Medici, catacombs the long-closed are Ricci da Montepulciano by Annibale built for Cardinal Lippi in in the from temple of 1540, with material taken, great measure, it hands into afterwards the Shortly Capitolinus. passed Jupiter and Alesof the Medici Cardinal was family, greatlyenlargedby afterwards Leo XI. In 1801 the Academy for sandro de' Medici

32

Walks

in Rome
established every here.

French Art Students,founded by Louis XIV., was The villa contains a fine collection of casts, open

day except

Sunday.
the villa is a beautiful Garden (which can be visited on Wednesdays and Saturdays by applicationto the porter). The looks down the Villa Borghese, is bordered terrace, which upon The by ancient sarcophagi, and has a colossal statue of Kome. angelo. Michelsometimes ascribed side of villa has been to the garden

Behind

' La plus grande coquetterie de la maison, c'est la facade posterieure. EUe On dirait que I'architient son rang parmi les chefs-d'oeuvre de la Renaissance. mine de bas-reliefs grecs tecte a epuise une et remains en tapisserson pour du temps ou I'aristocratie : il date palais. Le jardin est de la meme epoque romaine professaitle plus profond dedain pour les fleurs. On n'y voit que des soin scrupuleux. Six pelouses, entourees de massifs de verdure, alignes avec un haies a hauteur d'appui, s'etendent devant la villa et laissent courir la vue jusqu'au mont Soracte,qui ferme I'horizon. A gauche, quatre fois quatre carres de gazon murailles de lauriers, s'encadrent dans de hautes de buis gigantesques Les murailles se rejoignent au-dessus des allees et les enveet de chenes verts. fraiche et mysterieuse. A droite,une terrasse d'un style loppent d'une ombre noble encadre un bois du chenes verts,tordus et eventres J'y vais par le temps. quelquefois travailler a I'ombre ; et le merle rivalise avec le rossignolau-dessus de villagepent rivaliser avec Mario beau chantre de ma comme un ou Roger. tete, Un peu plus loin,une vigne toute rustique s'etend jusqu'a la porte Pinciana, oii de statues, Les jardins petits et grands sont semes Belisaire a mendie, dit-on. sorte. coule de L'eau et de marbres toute dans des d'Hermes, sarcophages de marbre dans des vasques et l'eau sont les deux : le marbre antiques ou jaillit luxes de 'Rome.'" About, ^ Rome Contemporaine.'

paths, with

of the Villa Medici laid out in the old fashion of straight are form hedges of great height and density,and borders of box, which to the evenness of a wall of stone at the top and sides. shorn and trimmed are with long vistas, There overshadowed are alleys, by ilex-trees ; and at each green stone to repose intersection of the paths the visitor finds seats of lichen-covered statues at of and marble that look their lost noses. forlornly him, regretful upon, In the more portions of the garden, before the sculptured front of the villa, open you see fountains and flower-beds ; and in their season, a profusion of roses, from which the genial sun of Italy distils a fragrance to be scattered abroad by the no less genial breeze.' Hawthorne.
'

The

grounds

"

The clippedwalks give a good idea of an ancient Roman garden, allowed to grow in its own but in which tree was was no way, forced by the topiarius into a prescribed form, and walls of green made with niches, tural doors,or windows, as in architecbay or box were

designs.
'

Quel merveilleux
et de charme

noir bois de chenes declin jette des lueurs brasillantes d'or rouge ! II y faut monter par un escalier entiere Interminable, et de la-haut,du belvedere qui domine, on possede Rome les bras, on allait la prendre toute.'" Zola, d'un regard,conune si,en elargissant 'Rome.'

allees de magnises buis, ses pins, ses jardin encore, avec ficence ! quel refuge de reverie antique que le tres vieux et tres le soleil a son verts,ou, dans le bronze luisant des feuilles,

A
a

second

tiny wood
an

leads
on

door will admit to the higher terrace of the Boschetto ; of ancient ilexes, from which a steep flightof steps the artificial mound formed or an 'Belvidere,' up II Pamaso ancient by Cardinal Ricci, whence, till the nympheum

The
recent

Villa Medici
Villa

33
most

might

destruction- of be obtained.

the

Ludovisi, a

exquisite view

' They asked the-porter for the key of the Bosco, which was given, and they shine shut out the radiant sunwhose gloomy shade effectually entered a grove of ilexes, ascended then western a long and the illuminated still They that sky. covered with ilexes. of steps, leading up to a high mound exceedingly steep flight dome and where the city, on side by side,gazing silently Here both stood still, and its Mario bell-tower stood out against a sky of gold ; the desolate Monte ilex sombre stone pines rising dark to the right. Behind, close at hand, were ruined a of or the here a and there which amid spire rose cypress woods, arch, and on the highest point, the white Villa Ludovisi ; beyond stretched the evening sky.'" the Campagna, girdled by hills melting into lightunder

Mademoiselle

Mori.

the door of the Villa Medici is the scene From which frame of a fountain shaded by ilexes,

familiar to artists, distant view of S.

Peter's.
Je vois (de la Villa Medici) les quatre cinquiemes de la ville ; je compte les sept collines, je parcours les rues regulieresqui s'etendent entre le Cours et la place des palais, des domes, et des des 6glises, d'Espagne, je fais le denombrement clochers ; je m'"igaredans le Ghetto et dans le Trasttivere. Je ne vois pas des sur ma ruines autant que j'envoudrais : elles sont ramassees hi-bas, gauche, aux tout prfes de nous la colonne Antonine environs du Forum. Cependant nous avons d'Adrien. La vue est fermee agreablement par les pins de la villa et le mausoloe table h mille une Pamphili, qui r6unissent leurs larges parasols et font comme piedspour un repas de geants. L'horizon fuit a gauche a des distances inflnies ; mettais en la mer. Mais si je vous et bleue comme la plaine est nue, onduleuse seul objet attirerait vos regards, im presence d'un spectaclesi etendu et si divers, votre attention : vous n'auriez des yeux que pour Saint-Pierre. seul frapperait un moitie dans le ciel. Quand j'ouvrema Sou dome est moitie dans la ville, fenetre, dans les brouillards de la fievre : vers uoyee cinq heUres du matin, je vois Rome seul, le dome de Saint-Pierre est colore par la lumiere rose du soleil levant.'
'
"

Abo^it.
^

ends at the Obelisk The terrace ('La Passeggiata') Trinita de' Monti, erected here in 1789 by Pius VI.

of the

"

' When the Ave Maria sounds, it is time to go to the church of Trinita de' Monti, I declare to heaven where French nuns sing ; and it is charming to hear them. with edification ; but that I am become and listen to bad music quite tolerant, The composition is perfectlyridiculous, the organ-playing even what can I do? absurd : but it is twilight, and the whole of the small bright church is filled more with persons kneeling, litup by the sinking sun each time that the door is opened ; voices in the world, quite tender and have both the singing nuns the sweetest of them when one touching,more sings the responses in her melodious especially to hear chaunted by priests in a loud, harsh, voice,which we are accustomed it is well known monotonous tone. The impression is very singular; moreover, to form a is permitted to see the fair singers,so this caused that no one me strange resolution. I have composed something to suit their voices, which I have observed very minutely, and I mean to send it to them. It will be pleasant to hear my chaunt as they must in performed by persons I never saw, especially \yn\iG\"\.'"Memlelsturn sing it to the "barbaro Tedesco," whom they also never n's Letters.
'

formerly in the gardens of Sallust on the Quirinal. Faune it lying there. di R(nna), and PyiTho Ligori in 1553,saw Thence it was removed XII., in 1735, to the small (piadrangle near by Clement H. .Tohn Lateran, where 11 Mercvrio it was still prostrate in 1771 (Kossiin, seen Errante). Pius VI. employed the architect Antinori to erect it in its present position.
obelisk
was

The

1548

Antichith (JDelV

VOL.

I.

34
'

Walks

in Rome

In the evenings people go to the Trinita to hear the nuns sing from the organgallery. It sounds like the singing of angels. One sees in the choir troops of with their long white veils, scholars, moving with slow and measured young steps, like a flock of spirits. Frederika Bremer.
'
"

The Church built by Charles VIII. of the Trinita de' Monti was of France in 1495, at the request of S. Francesco di Paola. In the time of the French revolution it was restored by but was plundered, Louis XVIII. in 1817. It contained several interesting paintings. In the second chapel on the left is the Descent from the Cross, the masterpiece of Daniele da Volterra,declared by Nicholas Poussin to be the third picture in the world, but terribly injuredby the French in their attempts to remove it. might almost fancy ourselves spectators of the mournful scene," the while being removed from with all the cross, gradually sinking down that relaxation of limlx and utter helplessnesswhich belongs to a dead body ; the assistants engaged in their various duties, into different and and thrown trasted conwhich attitudes,intently occupied with the sacred remains they so her aftlicted of the Lord in a swoon amidst reverently gaze upon ; the mother He loved standing with outstretched companions ; the disciplewhom arms, in contemplating the mysterious spectacle. The truth in the repreabsorbed sentation of the exposed parts of the body appears to be nature itself. The colouring of the heads and of the whole picture accords precisely with the strength rather than delicacy, a harmony, and in short a subject,displaying of which degree of skill, Michelangelo himself might have been proud, if the And to this I believe the author picture had been inscribed with his name. alluded, when he painted his friend with a looking-glassnear, as if to intimate that he might recognise in the picture a reflection of himself.'" 2/rtn2i.
'We

Redeemer,

Daniele da Volterra's Descent from the Cross is one of the celebrated pictures of the world, and has very grand features. The body is not skilfully sustained ; the number of strong men nevertheless employed about it makes up in sheer muscle for the absence of skill. Here are four ladders against the cross, stalwart figuresstanding,ascending, and descending upon each, so that the space between the cross and the ground is absolutely alive with magnificent lines. The Virgin lies on one side,and is like a grand creature struck down by a sudden death-blow. She has fallen, like Ananias in Raffaelle's cartoon, with her head bent backwards, and her arm under her. The crown of thorns has been taken from the dead brow, and rests on the end of one of the ladders.' Lady Eastlake.
"

'

third chapel on the right contains an Assumption of the work another of Daniele da Volterra. The fifth chapel is Virgin, adorned with frescoes of his school, The sixth has frescoes of the school of Perufjino. The frescoes in the right transept are by F. Zuccaro and Pierino del Vaga ; in that of the procession of S. Gregory the mausoleum of Hadrian is represented as it appeared in the time of Leo X. The adjoining Convent of the Sacre Coeur is much frequented as of When a education. The of rank. all a place nuns are persons her nearest relations inherit her property,except ladytakes the veil, about allowed to The nuns are "1000, which goes to the convent. retain no personal property, but if they still wish to have the use of their books, they give them to the convent library. They receive visitors every afternoon, and quantitiesof people go to them from the plea of seekingadvice. on curiosity, the Trinith,the two popular streets From Sistina and Gregoriana branch off ; the former leading in a direct line (though the name
" "

The

36
The

Walks

in Rome

Babuino ends Id the uglj but central square of the of the best hotels and shops are situated. di Spagna. where many i? liouse let t"" foreigners.Even in 1580 Mo"taijrnpw*-ites of Every ville oil c" Romeune ;"art -ngiers, ..' Hence de 1\ the Trii: y a
"

r: ;

""
-

which built by ^^c^t^ilii^.l". was cj."crcchi M. Gueffier,secretary to the individual, XllL

:
.

..nder Innocent
.

' No art-loiougvisitor to Rome wlucl; liiidt fruu! tin }'iiiziaa;

can Miairna

ever t-

have
tin.

passed tbe ixttaie Mij^

diurdi

ot atcfie vf tlie Triniti. dc' Mtmti -dels tbe

i-e was
:-

one

i^

'I'll the

tto

v..
;.

of

iv] K fun \va''. vir.:

,

tilt

:"uci pail
'

Ml
-

g:ivbe. Z/iakwMt.
"

riim'.' thj.

the

si-i:

is

setting. From

hundred

b"."!frif:^ the \m?Us

and

Ixd'.'W

\':v

a'.d
on

ai'.'-ahc,

vv'U

ihc ",'itvaud

tiit ."v\t.-n H:'it.

-1 an

.v./.

The house hat in which

the rightof tbe steps, marked the poet Keats died,. February 24

by

is inscription,

1821.

Palazzo
The Barcaccia

di

Spagna

37

at the foot of the steps, the fountain (restored), is boat executed by Bernini, a stone commemorating the naumachia took place in an artificial lake naval battles which of Domitian"

surrounded

bv a kind of theatre, which once occupied the site of this piazza. In front of the Palazzo di Spagna (theresidence of the Alfieri triumphed in a to the Pope, and where Spanish ambassador Pius VL), which under of his 'Antigone' representation magnificent to the square, stands a Ck"lamii of cipollino, ing supportgivesits name in honour in erected IX. of the Pius statue 1854, a by Virgin, the base are of his new Conception. At dogma of the Immaculate of Moses, David, Isaiah, and Ezekiel. figures The Piazza di Spagna may called the English quarter
'

be considered
'

of

Rome,

the centre of what is of which the Corso foims the

as

boundary.
there is a gay and pleasant English colony in Rome, of course with every varying less remarkable for rank, fashion, and agreeability, Thrown together every day, and night after night : flocking to the same year. Pincian statue functions, the drives, and church galleries, picture galleries, in Rome become friendly. colonists at cases many intimate, perforce English where the various meets for the week are placarded: They have an English library, are such a day the Vatican galleries on open ; the next is the feast of Saint soand vespers in the ^istine Chapel : and-so ; on Wednesday there will be music on Thursday the Pope will bless the animals -sheep, hoises, and what not ; and rush to witness the benedietion of droves of donkeys. fltx;ksof English accfNrdingiy of the popes, with In a woni, the ancient ci^ of the Caesars, the angmt fmes out and arranged for English all mapped their splendour and ceremony, are diversion. Thackeray.
'

Every winter
or

more

'

"

by the CoUegio di Propaganda Fade, founded in 1622 by Gregory XV., but enlarged by Urban VIII., who built the present edifice from plansof Bernini. Like all the buildings
The Piazza is closed erected by this pope, its chief decorations Barberini. The object of the College is the of all nations as missionaries.
'

are

the bees of the of youths education

The origin of the Propaganda is i)roperiy to be sought in an edict ol GKgorj confided to m ccartain missioos was XIII., by which the diiectk"i of Easton who were number of cardinals, cmmnaiided to promote the printing of eate"^inns in the less known not firmly established ; it was tongues. But the insfeifciitiMi and the with was was comprehensive bj no means unprovideil requisiteneans, in its views. da Nami It was at the sagguHon of the great preacher Girolami that the idea was his suggestion a At ui extoidhig tihe above-named institntioD. Om man due and estabiishrd body fiwnii, laj congpegatioM to be hdd tor the guidance and coiidnet"^ missions in were regular raeethigs advanced The first funds were bgrGkq;oi7; his nephew every part of the world. in fact contributed from his private property ; and since this insytntion was it incnaned in prosperity adapted to a want, the pressure of which was then felt, and ^endonr. Who does not know the sarices perfotmed by the fropeganda for the diltasion of philosophini stndies? and not "ys obIj : OK instituffiMB kns gODoany laboured (in its eaiiiest jearSkmost nwif isfuUy,pertaps)to fuUi its vocation in aliberal and noble iZmfo, HitL ^tftePSpo^ fiist c"NiceiTMt
was

quk'"

sont les umdeles dans retonment

06 'OnyreooitdfisjennesgensndBdans ks pajya ultiamontaina et crisnlsnY, et et ks her^tiques civile, ; itsyfont lenrMncationr^gieuBeet leur pays
comme

miasionnaires pour

psopagcr

la foL'"A.

Dtt

Pays.
teioiiMnres pour
^u\

lagoftt poor

38

Walks

in Rome

Le capuchin en daube rousse. se mange que deux peres franciscains a la sauce le renard, quand il a ete gele. II y a .\ la Propagande biblioaussi comme une sortes de caracteres des langues theque, une imprimerie fournie de toutes et de petitsChinois qii'ony eleve ainsi que des alouettes chanterelles, orientales, en attraper d'autres.'" Dc Brasses. pour

here, when speeches are recited by languages. The public is admitted is shown free by tickets. The Borgia Museum, on the second floor, on Mondays, Thursdays,and Saturdays. It is like many provincial in England, and museums scarcely worth a visit. An interesting the line which of the world, with relic,however, is the map
In January a festival is held the pupils in all their different Alexander VI. drew to mark the Indian in discoveries. the division

of

Spain

and

Portugal

The Via semicircular

at noon,

Ripetta leaves the Piazza del Popolo on the right. A scene every Saturday space on the rightpresentsa lively the of the Koman lottery. during drawing

' In the middle of the balcony,on the rail, is fixed a glass barrel,with a handle to turn it roued. who have been just now Behind it stand three or four officials, ushered in with two a blast from trumpeters, also stationed in the balcony. twelve or Immediately behind the glass barrel itself stands a boy of some ments, of one thirteen years, dressed in the white uniform of the orphan establishSome with a huge white shovel hat. time is occupied by the folding, and putting into the barrel,pieces of paper, inscribed with the numbers, from of the Each of these is proclaimed, as folded and put in,by one one upwards. officials who acts as spokesman crier. At last, after eighty-seven, eightyor eight,and eighty-nine have been given out, he raises his voice to a chant, and sings forth,Nurnero ninety," this completing the number novanta, " number put in. ' less And the balcony another character" no on now, or before this,appears not in his ordinary, but in his more than a Monsignore, who a person appears, solemn official costume the ceremonial this connects directly with the ; and And the drawing. The barrel now commences spiritualauthority of the realm. time turned having been for some rapidly round to shuffle the numbers, the orphan takes off his hat, makes the sign of the cross, and having waved his open hand in the air to show that it is empty, inserts it into the barrel,and draws out it and hands it to the crier. a number, giving it to the Monsignore, who opens the This latter then proclaims it" "Prima venti cinque." Then estratta,nurnero the prois repeated four times trumpets blow their blast,and the same more, clamation five numbers each time, Seconda estratta, Terza, Quarta, Quinfa, etc., pressions being thus the whole drawn, out of ninety put in. This done, with various exof surprise, delight, the crowd below, the or disappointment from officials disappear, the square and all is as usual till the next empties itself, time. Saturday at the same ' In almost are shops devoted to the purchase of lottery every street in Rome tickets. Two numbers purchased with the double chance of those two numbers turning up are called an ambo, and three purchased with the treble chance of those three turning up are called a terno, and, of course, the higher and more Letters from perilous the stake, the richer the prize, if obtained.'" .4Z/orrf's Abroad.
.
. .

* s"^verement la Les strangers qui viennent comraencent Rome a par blamer loterie. Au bout de quelque temps, I'esprit de tolerance qui est dans I'airpt-netre (lui jusqu'au fond de leur cerveau peu-a-peu ; ilsexcuseut un jeu philanthrfipiiiue fournit au pauvre Bient"Jt, pour se peuijlesix jours d'esperances pour cinq sous. dans un bureau, ils entrent eux-memes rendre compte du mucanisme de la loterie, evitant de se laisser voir. Trois mois apres, ils poursuiventouvertement une en

The
coniliiuaisoii savante ; ils out do leiir nom tit'i-s ; ils donnent
uiie

Ripetta

39

thuoiie mathcniatique qu'ils signeraicntvolonarrives ; ils erigent le des Icf^onsaux nouveaux jeu en prinoipe et jurent qu'un lioinme est irapardonnables'il no laisse pas une Contemporaine. porte ouveito iXla Fortxino.'" About, Rome

XI. construction of Clement Tlie Quay of the Ripetta,a graceful artists and was architects, in 1707, equally admired destroyed by for an ugly iron in 1874, to make way by the present Government bridge over the Tiber. The district on the farther side,occupied by fields and gardens till 1883, has since been covered with hideous
stucco
'

barracks

in the worst

taste. possible

terrain plat les prairiesdu Chateau en le du Tibre, jusqu'aux premieres tout long peupliers, Saint-Ange, coupces pour le premier plan Mario, vastes herbages, aim6s des artistes, pentes du Mont lointain de Saint-Pierre. de riante verdure qu'ilsfaisaiant au Borgo et au dome Et c'est niaintenant, au milieu de cette plaine bouleversee, 16preuse et blandes cubes de chdtre, une ville eutiere,une ville de maisons massives, colossales, des a tons nies se Tangle droit, larges, coupant avec pareils, pierres reguliers, immense damier cases aux symetriques. D'un bout k I'autre,les memes un facades se reproduisent, on aurait dit des series de convents, de casernes, Et I'etonnement, d'hupitaux, dont les lignesidentiques se continuentsansfln. et p^nible, vient surtout de la catastrophe, inexplicextraordinaire able i'impression si,par d'abord, qui a immobilise cette ville en pleine construction,comme quelque matin maudit, un magicien de desastre avait, d'un coup de baguette, arrete les travaux, vide les chantiers turbulents,laisse les batisses telles qu'elles Tous les etats abandon. morne precise, dans un 6taient, k cette minute successifs se retrouvent, depuis les terrassements, les trous profonds creuses pour les fondations,restes beants et que des herbes folles avaient envahis,jusqu' II y'a des maisons dont maisons entiferement debout, achevees et habitees. aux sortent les murs a peine du sol ; il y'en a d'autres qui atteignent le deuxieme, leurs planchers de solieres de fer k jour, leurs fenetres le troisieme 6tage, avec il ciel ouvertes le sur y'en a d'autres,montees completement, couvertes de leur ; a batailles des vents, toutes semblables livrees aux telles que les carcasses toit, Puis c'est des maisons des cages vides. terminees, mais dont on n'a pas eu le ext"5rieures ; et d'autres qui sont demeurees sans temps d'enduire les murs ni aux portes, ni aux fenetres ; et d'autres qui ont bien leurs portes et boiseries, les appartemais clouees, telles que des couvercles de cerceuil, leurs pei-siennes, d'autres enfin et unes ame ments en habitees,quelques partie, sans une morts, ; des populations. Rien ne tres-peu totalement, vivantes de la plus inattendue pent rendre I'affreuse tristesse de ces choses.'" Zola, 'Rome.' A cette s'etendaient place,autrefois,
de

existed here, and of which the long lines The fieldswhich formerly beautiful such formed a foreground to the Vatican and S. Peter's, of historic interest, were being the Prata Quinctia of Cincinnatus.

the

people,lived beyond (JuinctiusCincinnatus, the only hope of the Roman where the where he the Navalia cultivated the four are, opposite place Tiber, called the Quinctian meadows. There the of ground which are now acres of the senate found him leaning on his spade, either digging a trench messengers field labour. The or salutation, ploughing, but certainly occupied in some it be well with and the republic," was given and retiu-ned in the you "May from usual form, and he was ro(|uestedto put on his toga to receive a message he desired his wife the senate. Amazed, and asking if anything was wrong, the cottage, and having wiped off the sweat Racilia to fetch his toga from and he was forward dressed in his toga to the dust with which covered, he came who saluted him as dictator,and congratulated him.'" Lioy, iii.2G. messengers,
'

L.

the left of churches on Martino, built 1657, by Antonio The

it,admirablymanaged under

the de' the

Rossi,with

SS. Rocco Ripetta are, first, a hospital ing adjoinrule. papal

40
'

Walks

in Rome

ITie lyinff-in It contains seventy hospitaladjoins the church of San Rocco. beds, furnislied with curtains and screens, so as to separate them effectually. Females admitted without their country, or their conare dition giving their names, in life ; and such is the delicacy observed in their regard, that they are at unknown to remain to their attendants, in even a veil,so as liberty to wear order to save the honour of their families,and prevent abortion, suicide,or
The infanticide. Even should death the deceased remains unknown. ensue, children are conveyed to Santo who wishes to retain Spirito; and the mother it may be recognised and her offspring,affixes a distinctive mark, by which To remove all disquietude from recovered. the minds of those who may enter, all civil, the establishment is exempt from criminal, and ecclesiastical jurisdiction, and its threshold is never crossed except by persons with the connected establishment. '"Dr. Donovan.

Then, opposite the bridge,S. Girolamo degli Schiavoni, built for It contains,near the altar, Sixtus V. by Fontana. a striking figure of S. Jerome, seated,with a book upon his knees.
In front of this church Niccolo Montenegro, Priore di Sodefoyta, was attacked, and three of his servants killed, by ruffians hired by Donna Pamfili the famous and down this street legend Olimpia ; declares that the terrible Olimpia is sometimes borne through the drawn four headless and vanishes night in a fiery horses, carriage by the Piazza del on reaching Popolo.

follow the Corso, which, in spiteof its narrowness, We will now is the finest street in Kome. that this It is greatly to be regretted street,which is nearlya mile long,should lead to nothing,instead have produced of ending at the steps of the Capitol, which would In the further street effect. 1886 a was injured by the striking destruction of the grand tower which at of Paul III., wanton rose The follows the end of the vista, the Corso the Capitoline. upon line of the ancient Via Flaminia, and in consequence was once of Marcus Aurelius, spanned by four triumphal arches Domitian, but all these have disappeared. The soClaudius, and Gordian called palaces of the Corso fronts 'facciate are chieflymere mobilia e quadri dietro.' ^ The street is lined with balconies, con filled with gay groups of maskers are which, during the carnival, confetti. These balconies relic of imperialtimes, are a flinging been called invented at Rome, where having originally they were 'Moeniana,' from the tribune Moenius, who designed them to
"

"

"

accommodate
'

in the streets below. spectators of processions

The Corso is a street a mile long ; a street of shops, and palaces, and private and houses, sometimes opening into a broad piazza. There are verandahs not on one to almost every house balconies,of all shapes and sizes, story alone, but often to one another or on room every story put there in general with so after season, it had little order or regularity, that if year after year, and season rained balconies, hailed balconies,snowed balconies, they balconies, blown Dickens. could scarcely have come into existence in a more manner.' disorderly
" "

"

Zola's
'

stillapplies to description
gens

afternoons

in the Corso.
le moins
comme

C'etait la promiscuitc

les place iK)ssible,

entassee dans en plein air, toute Rome "iui se connaissaient, qui- se retrouvaient
1

de
en

See

Forsyth.

Mausoleum

of Augustus

41

les plus I'iiitiinito d'un salon, les gens (|ui se ne pailaient pas, des mondes advorses,niais qui se coudoyaient, (|uise fouillaient du regard, jusqu'a r.ime. Justenient, le plaisirotait la,dans I'^troitesse de la voie, dans ce coudoiement rencontres I'Otalage aux attendues, les curiosites satisfaites, force,(jui perniettait fin. La ville entiere des vanitcs heureuses, les provisions des comnierages sans donnait son se spectacle a elle-nienie, s"yrevoyait cha(iuejour, s'etalait, s'epiait, brulee d'un tel besoin, indisponsable a la longue, de se voir ainsi,qu'un honiine bien n6 qui manquait le Corso,etait un honinie depays"5, sans jouruaux.'

the left of the Corso is the Augustine church of Gesii e Maria, of Almost a opposite is the church fa"ade by Rinnldi. It is attached to S. Giacomo degli Incurabili,by Carlo Madcmo. Strada S. 350 for In the a surgicalhospital patients. adjoining Giacomo the studio of Canova, recognisable was by fragments of bas-reliefs engrafted in its walls. Three streets beyond this (on right)is the Via de' Pontefici now (so called from a series of papal portraits, destroyed,which existed of the walls of its on one houses),where (No. 57 formerly of the Mausoleum of Augustus to the remains R.) is the entrance
On

with

(TeatroCorrea).
Hard the Roman where by the banks of the Tiber,in the gi'assy meadows tower with there rose a loftymarble youths met in athletic and martial exercises, three retiring stages, each of which and had its terrace covered with earth These stages were planted with cypresses. chambers, pierced with numerous destined to receive,row within row, and story upon story,the remains of every of the imperial family, member of their slaves and freedwith many thousands In the centre of that massive mound the great founder of the empire was men. to sleep his last sleep,while his statue was its ordained to rise conspicuous on summit, and satiate its everlasting gaze M'ith the view of his beloved city.'" Menvale.
'

The first funeral here was that of Marcellus,son of Octavia,the sister of Augustus, and first husband of his daughter Julia ; he died of malaria at Baiae, B.C. 23.
'

Alavortis ad urbem Quantos ille viriuu magnam Campus aget gemitus I vel quae, Tiberine, videbis tumulum ! Funera, cum praeterlabere recentem Nee puer Iliaca quisquam de gente Latinos In tantum quondam spe toilet avos ; nee Romula UUo se tantum tellus jactabitalumno. Heu pietas,heu prisca fides, invictaque bello Dextera ! non illise quisquam impune tulisset Obvius armato, seu quum pedes iret in hostem, Seu spumantis equi foderet calcaribus armos. Heu, miserande puer ! si qua fata aspera rumpas, Tu Marcellus eris. Aencul, vi. 873.
'

The next member of the family buried here was Agrippa, the second husband of Julia, ob. 12 B.C. Then came Octavia, sister of the Emperor and widow of Antony, honoured by a publicfuneral, at which orations were delivered by Augustus himself, and Drusus, of the empress Livia. son Her body was carried to the tomb by Tiberius (afterwards emperor) and of the Drusus, the two sons empress. Drusus

(9 B.C.) died in

German

campaign by

fall

42
from his

Walks

in Rome

In horse, and was brought back hither for interment. died at his and burnt Nola, body was great Augustus here on a funeral pile that the widowed dishevelled so gigantic, Livia, with bare feet, attended by the principal Eoman and ungirt, senators, had to watch it for five days and nights, before it cooled sujfficiently
A.D.

14 the

At the moment of the emperor. of its of the pyre, an being lighted eaglewas let loose from the summit under which form a senator named Numerius Atticus was induced, from Livia that he saw to 250,000francs,to swear by a gift equivalent the spirit of Augustus flyaway to heaven. Then came Germanicus, and of the first of ob. A.D, son Drusus, Tiberius, 19, at nephew believed to have been poisoned by Piso and Antioch, where he was his wife Plancina. Then, in A.D. 23,Drusus, son of Tiberius, poisoned and her lover Sejanus : then the empress Livia, by his wife Livilla, who died a.d. 29,at the age of 86. Agrippina, widow of Germanicus (ob.A.D. 33),starved to death, and her two sons, Nero and Drusus, also murdered by Tiberius,were long excluded from the family but were sepulchre, eventually brought hither by the youngest the Emperor Caligula. Tiberius,who brother, Caius, afterwards died A.D. 37, at the villa of Lucullus at Misenum, was brought here for burial. The ashes of Caligula, murdered A.D. 41, and first buried in the Horti Lamiani transferred here the were on Esquiline,

for them

to collect the ashes

of Drusus, and by his sisters. In his reign Antonia, the widow laid up here. mother of Germanicus, had died, and her ashes were The Emperor Claudius,A.D. 54, murdered by Agrippina; his son, Britannicus,A.D. 55, murdered by Nero ; and the Emperor Nerva, the latest inmates of the mausoleum. The last cremation occurred which here was long after the had fallen into ruin, when mausoleum the body of the tribune ordered after having hung for two days at S. Marcello,was Rienzi, consumed and to be burnt here by Jugurta and was by Sciaretta, of Jews (out of flattery a vast multitude to the Colonna, their neighbours reduced at the Ghetto), 'in a fire of dry thistles, tillit was to
A.D.

98, were

ashes,and
'

no

fibre of it remained.'

In the midst of the sepultures is a recess where Octavian was wont to sit ; and the priestswere from there doing their ceremonies. And kingdom of the every whole world he commanded that there should be brought one basket full of earth, the which to put upon unto all nations coming the temple, to be a remembrance to Rome.'" Slirabilia Urhis Romae XIIc.

is nothing now to the former magnificence remaining to testify It was of this building. The area is used as a theatre. ravaged by the Goths under Alaric, used as a fortress by the Colonna family,and destroyed after the defeat of the Colonnas The the allies in 1167. Count of Tusculum and his German by obelisks which stood at its entrance now are oppositethe Quirinal it Palace and S, Maria Maggiore, In the earlytimes of Christianity stroyed decrowned was by the shrine and statue of S. Angelo de Augusta, There

Among by the people in 1378,and afterwards twice replaced. its massive cells a poor washerwoman, known blished estaSister Rose,' as for aged in the middle of the presentcentury a kind of hospital
'

44
hood.
whole

Walks

in Rome

He loaded his nephews with presents ; we have a list of them through his to the year 1620. reign down They are sometimes jewels or vessels of which were taken directlyfrom the stores of the or magnificent furnitm'e, silver, rich arms, as muskets palace and sent to the nephews ; at other times carriages, and falconets, the round were presented to them ; but the principal thing was These accounts make it appear of hard money. sum that, to the year 1620, they had received in ready money 689,627 scudi 31 baj ; in luoghi di monte, 24,600 values ; in places,computing them at the sum scudi,according to their nominal their sale would have brought to the treasury,268,176scudi ; all which amounted, of the Aldobrandini, to nearly a million. as in the case Nor did the Borghese neglect to invest their wealth in real pi'operty. They nobles acquired eighty estates in the Campagna of Rome suffering ; the Roman themselves to be tempted into the sale of their ancient hereditary domains by the large prices paid them, and by the high rate of interest borne by the luoghi di thus other acquired. In many monte, which they purchased with the money parts of the Ecclesiastical States,the Borghese also seated themselves, the Pope their doing so by the grant of peculiarprivileges, In some facilitating places,for example, they received the right of restoring exiles ; in others,that of holding certain exemptions were a market, or granted to those who became their vassals. freed from various imposts, and even obtained a bull, They were by virtue of to be confiscated.'" /vanA;e, HUt. of the Popes. which their possessionsM'ere never
'

Si Ton pent reprocher a Paul, avec Muratori, ses liberalites envers ses neveux, le Cardinal Scipion,envers le due de Sulmone, il est juste d'ajouterque la de cette noble famille rivaliserent avec le pape de magnificence plupart des membres million et de generosite. Or, chaque annee, Paul V. distribuait un d'ecus et un million d'or aux pelerinspauvres et demi autres necessiteux. C'est a aux la fondation remonte lui que de la banque du Saint-Esprit,dont les riches servirent immeubles d'hypotheques aux depots qui lui furent confies. 3Iais ce fut surtout dans les constructions qu'ilentreprit, que Paul V. deploya une royale Gojwjiene. magnificence.'"
envers

'

quadrangle

Palazzo Borghese is an immense edifice standinground the four sides of a forms comprising the picture-galleiy ; and though the suite of rooms almost interminable an vista,they occupy only a part of the ground floor of one side. We with a corridor, enter from the street into a large court surrounded The picture-rooms the arches of which support a second series of arches above. from one into another, and have many being large points of magnificence, open and lofty, with vaulted ceilings and beautiful frescoes, generallyof mythological The cornices are gilded ; the deep subjects,in the flat central parts of the vault. of of the windows embrasures with wood-work are panelled ; the doorways are polished and variegated marble, or covered with a composition as hard, and The whole has a kind of splendidshabViiness thrown over seemingly as durable. chairs,being it,like a slightcoating of rust ; the furniture,at least the damask tables whi^-h may and mosaic serve a good deal worn ; though there are marble to adorn another palace, when with Sige.'"Haivthonie. this has crumbled away
'

The

Palazzetto Borghese, on the opposite side of the piazza, let in intended for the family, is now as a dower-house originally apartments. It is this house which is described as the 'Palazzo dementi,' in Mademoiselle Mori. At the corner of the Via Fontanella and the Corso is the handsome in almost Palazzo Ruspoli, built in 1586 (when the situation was the open of the Kuccellaj family, fields), by Ammanati, for one the site of the gardens called Orti Kuccellaj. It soon on j)assed towards the into the hands of the Caetani,and the central entrance killed by one Corso was walled up where was of the Caetani one of the Orsini upon been used since. the threshold,and has never The palace was lost by the Caetani in the last century, in part payment of a gambling debt, to the banker Ruspoliof Sieua. Vittoria, and received the banker's daughter, married a Mariscotti of Bologna, The

S. Lorenzo
a

in Lucina

45

regal dowry from her father on condition that her husband should should never of Ruspoli,and that her descendants take the name to a highertitle than that of a marquis. In violation of this, aspire her son Francesco purchased from the Orsini the fief of Cervetri, relaxed created his efforts till he was and never a prince. The described by Venuti was Giustiniani collection of sculpture famous the of this Each staircase of 155 steps shown in palace. step long and of solid of Parian cost 80 gold scudi formed block is marble, a built. Beyond this are the insignificant at the time it was palaces, and In the vestibule of Palazzo Fiano Teodoli. are Fiano, Verospi, in the found of the and of reliefs the site on .some palace 1554, phant belongingto the Ara Pacis Augustae, erected 13 B.C. on the triumof Augustus from his campaigns in Germany and Gaul. return
de Rome, bien que n'ayant pas un caractere original comme Les palais ceux de Veiiise, n'en sont pas moins de MoreiK-e ou cependant un des traits de la ni ti la renaissance lis n'appartiennent ni an moyen-age, ville des papes. (le niassives de Florence) ; ils sont seul rappelle les constructions Palais de Venise civile moderne. Les Bramante, les Sangallo, les des niodeles d'architecture Balthazar Peruzzi, qui les ont batis, sont des niaitres qii'on ne se lasse pas d'"Stiidier. La magnificence de ces palais reside principalement dans leur et dans les collections artistiquesque architecture quelques-uns contiennent. De plus, dans un triste etat d'abandon. sont malheureusement Uu certain nombre Cela ce con^oit ; nombre, ils sont restes inachev^s. ^I'exception d'lui tres-petit des cardinaux; tons sont le produit du luxe celibataire des papes ou presque ont pu voir la fin de ce qu'ilsavaient commence. tres-peu du ces pei-sonnages Leurs huritiers, pour la plupart, se souciaient fort peu de jeterles richesses qu'ils A I'intMeur,le plus venaient d'acquerirdans les edifices de luxe et de vanite. souvent, est nn mobilier rare, suranne, et mesquin." A. duPaysA
'
"

Bernini Palazzo (151 Corso), on the left,has, inside its of ' Calumny curious statue entrance, a by Bernini,with an inscription relative to his own from slander. sufferings On the right, the small Piazza of S. Lorenzo (now a central is the of S. of Here Church omnibus the Corso. out station)opens in rebuilt its in the fifth century, but Lorenzo in Lucina, founded present form by Paul V. in 1G06. The campanileis of an older date, The
'

and
'

so

are

the lions in the

portico.

When the lion, in the act of preying on a smaller or other wild beast,appears animal or on a man, is implied the severityof the Church towards the impenitent in the act of sporting with another creature, her benignity or heretical ; but when in Lucina, this towards the neophyte and the docile.' At the portal of S. Lorenzo idea is carried out in the figureof a manikin stroking the head of affectionately Chri^the terrible creature who protects,instead of devouring him.'" Ileman's tian Art.
,

No one should omit seeingthe grand picture of Guido Reni, over the high altar of this church, the Crucifixion,seen a wild, again.st stormy sky. Nicholas Poussin, ob. 1600, is buried here, and one of his best-known Arcadian landscapesis reproduced in a bas-relief his erected tomb, which was by Chateaubriand, with the upon
"

;
*^

epitaph
"

1 Of the volume Handlwoks for Italy which have onemany Du Pays is the most comprehensive, and" as far as its very allows" nuich the more interesting.

appeared, that
condensed

of form

46
'

Walks

in Rome

Parce piis lacrymis, vivit Pussinus in uma, Vivus qui dederat, nescius ipse mori. Hie tamen ipse silet ; si vis audire loquentem, et eloquitur.' Mirum est,in tabulis vivit,
'

In of

of Browning, this church is the Ring and the Book Pompilia's baptism and marriage. She is made to say :
'

The

scene

"

'
"

This S. Lorenzo

seems

My

own

particularplace, I always say.

I used to wonder, when I stood scarce high lion meant, As the bed here, what the marble Eating the figureof a prostrate man.'

the bodies after the murder

Here

of her
:
"

parents
"

are

representedas being exposed

' the piece Beneath Of Master Guido Reni, Christ on Cross, in Rome." Second to nought observable

the Via della Vite turns out of the Corso, an wall records in the the destruction,in 1665, of the inscription Aurelius, which existed here till that triumphal arch of Marcus The magnificence of this arch is attested by the bas-reliefs time. of the emperor, which were removed from representingthe history used decorate of to and the walls S. but now Martina, it, (c.399) are preservedon the staircase of the palaceof the Conservators. On the where left,
' et n'avaient pas assez n'en savaient pas assez de patiencepour Les Barbares les ressom-ces romains de la science modeme demolir les monuments : mais, avec est venu tout et a la suite d'une administration de presque a bout on reguliere, le II du avait avait, ce temps y par exemple, au commencement que epargne. xvie siecle, quatre arcs de triomphe qui n'existent plus ; le dernier,celui de MarcOn VII. lit encore dans le Corso Aurele, a et^ enlev6 par le pape Alexandre I'inconcevable inscriptiondans laquelle le pape se vante d'avoir debarrasse la promenade publique de ce monument, qui, vu sa date,devait etre d'un beau

style.'" Ampere, Voyage Dantesqxie. into the Via di Giardino, running with the The Palazzo Palomfor a short distance. parallel the Palazzaccio,where bara, at the corner, was Hugo Basseville, and the French of revolutionary propagandist, Secretary Embassy The
next turn
on

the Corso

rightleads

was

murdered, January 13, 1793.

A

the left, little farther down the Corso, on the Via delle Conof the three churches vertite leads to S. Silvestro in Capita,one in dedicated of the time of Constantine. Rome to the sainted pope This,like S. Lorenzo, has a fine mediaeval campanile. The day of 31 (a.d. 335), is kept here with S. Sylvester'sdeath, December is celebrated and by magnificent musical services. great solemnity, his rewhence This pope was buried in the cemetery of Priscilla, mains al Monte. removed The title ' In Capite ' to S. Martino were is given to this church of the head of S. John the Bapaccount on tist, which it professes to possess, as is narrated by an inscription engrafted into its walls. founded attached to this church was in 1318, especiThe convent

S. Andrea

delle Fratte
who

47
dedicated
selves them-

allyfor noble sisters of the house of Colonna

Here it

that the celebrated Vittoria Colonna, was to God. in her widowed to reside in 1525, when di Pescara, came Marchesa kind thirty-sixth year, and here she began to write her sonnets, a * of the It is a curious proof In Memoriam to her husband. of her remaining in the world, that Pope Clement value placed upon VII. was persuaded to send a brief to the abbess and nuns, desiring bidding but forand temporal consolations,' them to offer her * all spiritual
'

permit^
convent statue At

to of the greater excommunication, of this her to take the veil in her aflliction.^ The buildings modern is the In a used the Office. Post as are now piazza

them, under

pain

of Metastasio. of Via di under the name the end of this street,continued and is also marked Mercede [No. 11 was the residence of Bernini, brief stay in a by a tablet as the house where Sir W. Scott made 1832],and behind the Propaganda, is the Church of S. Andrea delle Fratte, whose brick cupola by Borromini is so picturesquea feature. In the the bells are The bell-tower beside it swings when rung. second spoiltby being raised into a position chapel on the right, tomb of not intended, is the beautiful modern for which it was The opposite Mademoiselle chapel is Falconnet, by Miss Hosmer. here. miracle (?)annually commemorated for a modern remarkable
' M. Ratisbonne, un juif, appartenant a une trfes-riche faraille d'Alsace, qui se de S. Andrea delle trouvait accidentellement a Rome, se pronienant dans I'eglise les obseques de M. de la FerFratte pendant qu'on y faisait les pr^paratifspour II se troiivait debout en face d'une chapelle s'yest converti subitement. rouays, dediee a I'angegardien, i quelques pas, lorsque tout-^-coupil a euune apparition de la Sainte Vierge qui lui a fait signe d'aller vers cette chapelle. luraineuse et il a ete k I'instant Une foi'ce irresistible I'ya entraine, il y est tonibe a genoux, Chretien. Sa premibre parole k celui qui I'avait accompagnd a ete,en relevant ait beaucoup prie pour son visage inonde de larmes : " II faut que ce monsieur moi." liecitd'une Soeur.
'
"

Era un istante ch' io mi stava in chiesa allora che di colpo mi sentii preso da Alzai gli occhi ; tutto 1'ediflzio s' era dileguato a' inesprimibileconturbamento. mioi sguardi ; sola una in se raccolta tutta la luce,e di mezzo come cappella aveva di raggianti splendori s' e mostrata diritta sull' altare,grande sfolgoreggiante, Una forza irresistibile m' ha piena di maest;i e di dolcezza,la Vergine Maria. sospintoverso di lei. La Vergine m' ha fatto della mano segno d' inginocchiarmi ; Ella non mi ha parlato, io ho inteso tutto.'" ! ma pareva volenni dire,"Bene Recital of Alfonso Ratisbonne.^
'
"

M. de la Ferronays, whose character is now from so well known the beautiful family memoirs of Mrs. Augustus Craven, is buried beneath the altar where this vision occurred. In the third chapel the left is the tomb of Angelica Kauffmann on ; in the rightaisle that of the Prussian Schadow. front of the choir were, till In artist, intended them for the bridge two angels by Bernini,who recently, of S. Angelo, where the municipality(1896) has now placedthem. leads to the Returning to the Corso, the Via S. Claudio (left) little church of that the only adjoining remaining pretty name,
See Trollope'sL\fe of VHttoria Colonna. See Un Figluor di Maria, ossia un Nuovo di Bussiere. 1842.
-

nostro

edited by the Baron Fratello,

48

Walks

in Rome

portionof

the Palazzo Parisani. Beyond, facingan addition to the Church A little behind Piazza Colonna, is the of S. Maria in Via. leads to the Via Tritone. S. Claudio the Via del Nazzareno Here of arches be the the line of some Aqua Vergine may seen, following An iron gate has recentlybeen placed here, old Eoman street. an and the old gate,surmounted of Sixtus IV.,pulled down. by the arms fact This is especially the of Sixtus IV. having to be regretted, as restored the Arco di Trevi close to this is mentioned in the inscription da his famous in the Vatican Melozzo Forli. on portrait by of Pope Sixtus are The arms little to be seen over a picturesque doorway on the other side of the street. At the corner of the Piazza Colonna is the Palazzo Chigi,begun della Porta, and finished by Carlo Maderno. in 1526 by Giacomo It contains several good picturesand a fine library, but is seldom ^ shown. of the great family of Chigi have The most remarkable members been the famous banker Agostino Chigi,who lived so sumptuously who mounted Fabio the papal throne at the Farnesina,and Chigi, refused and who have to as Alexander VII., long anything to do with the aggrandisement of his family,saying,that the poor were the only relations he would acknowledge,and, like Christ,he did wish for To keep himself of the in mind not ones. any nearer of earthly grandeur, this pope always kept a coffin in shortness and drank out of a cup shaped like a skull. One of the his room, of Roman ridiculous plans of the municipalityfor the destruction grandeur has been the purchase (1888) of the fine Palazzo Piombino, on the line of the Corso, which it has pulleddown, with the in imitation of that intention of erecting the site, on a glass-gallery
at Milan

In the centre of the piazzais placed the fine Column, which was found on the Monte Citorio in 1709, having been originally erected and Aurelius the to the Marcus a.d. senate 174, by Emperor people Antoninus (adopted son of the Emperor Hadrian, husband of his niece Annia It is Faustina, father of the Emperor Commodus). surrounded the conquest of the Marcoby bas-reliefs, representing manni. One of these has long been an especial object of interest, from being supposed to representa divinity sending rain (Jupiter?) of a Christian legion from in answer to the prayers to the troops, Eusebius the Mitylene. gives story, statingthat the piety of these Christians induced the emperor to ask their prayers in his necessity, and a letter in Justin Martyr (of which the authenticity is much in which Aurelius allows the is in proof. doubted), fact, produced The statue of S. Paul on the top of the column erected by was Sixtus V. ; the pedestal also is modern. Behind the Piazza Colonna is the Piazza Monte Citorio,containing
worth while to visit the Palazzo more Albano, Chigi at Laricca,near retains its stamped leather hangings and much of its old furniture. Here nieces be seen, assembled of in one the portraits of the twelve room, may when made Alexander enchanted their uncle was so VII., who were pope, that
1

It is

which

they all took the veil immediately

to

pleasehim.

Piazza
an

Monte

Citorio

49

discovered in broken Obelisk which the was fragments near in Lucina. Pius VI. was incited to raise it church of S. Lorenzo here by the supplicadegli obelischi giacenti of the Abbd Cancellieri. So it was with pieces of the column of Antoninus repaired in the Vatican of which may stillbe seen Gardens. Pius,the pedestal Its hieroglyphics and show that it are very perfectand valuable, erected more than 600 years before Christ in honour of Psamwas meticus I. It was by Augustus, and erected broughtfrom Heliopolis of by him in the Campus Martins, where it received the name Obeliscus Solaris, from being made to act as a sundial.
' '

ilivus Augustus addidit niirabilem usum, ad deprehenEi, (luiest in campo, solis umbras, dierumque ac noctium ita magnitudines, strato lapide ad ciii par fieret umbra, brumae confectae die,sexta hora ; niaguitudinem obelisci, sunt ex aere inclusae) diebus decresceret, ac paulatimque per regulas((luae singulis Manilius mathematicus rursus augesceret: digna cognitu res et ingenio foecundo. in se ipsa,alias apici auratam pilam addidit,cujus umbra vertice colligeretur enormiter jaculante apice,ratione (ut ferunt)a capite hominis intellecta. Haec observatio trigintajam fer6 annis non congruit,sive solis ipsiusdissono cursu, et coeli aliqua ratione mutato, sive universa tellure a centro sue aliquidemota, ut deprehendi et in aliislocis accipio: sive urbis tremoribus,ibi tantum guomone sive inundationibus Tiberis sedimento molis facto : quanquam ad altiintorto, tudinem oneris in terram dicantur acta fundamental Plin. inipositi quoque dcndas
"

'

Nat.

Hist. lib. xxxvi.

15.

Citorio (designed by Bernini)has been of dei Deputati,^ as the Camera kingdom Italy, of Antoninus The base of the pillar Pius,now in the Vatican Gardens, found near this in the garden of the Casa della Missione. The was Monte Citorio conceals the site of the Temple of Marcus Aurelius, stood in a forum something like that in front of which the column of Trajan. leads into the Proceedingup the Corso,the Via di Pietra (right) small Piazza di Pietra,one side of which is occupied by the eleven called the Temple of Neptune, and remaining columns, sometimes that of Hadrian, built up by Innocent sometimes XII. into the walls of a buildinglong used as the Custom-house. The pillars of Marmor the modern A tiny Carrara. are Lunense, from Luna of Christ the the o f the cross fourth column on on figure flutings the left, this on buildings, prove that, like almost all other pagan Christian converted to It is worth while was to temple purposes. enter the courtyard in order to look back and observe the immense of stone above the entrance, part of the ancient temple, masses which are here uncovered.^ The Palace of the
Monte

used,since the united

"

'The fifteen provinces and fourteen trophiesbelongiugtothe north side of the Three provinces and two trophieshave temple have all been accounted for. has been left migrated to Naples with the rest of the faniese marbles, one behind in the portico of the Famese palace, tive provinces and four trophies iu the Palazzo dei Ctonservatori, two are In the Palazzo Odescalclu, are in one
.

dei Deputatimay be obtained from any member. order to visit the Camera of an early mediaeval The remains church, S. Stefano del Trullo,have been found near this, entirelyl)uilt with fragments from the Temple of Neptune, and the Arch of Claudius in the Piazza di Sciarra.
An
-

VOL.

I.

50

Walks

in Rome
are

the Palazzo Altieri, two pieces of the entablature Giardino delle Tre Pile on the Capitol,and another of the Arch of Constantine. Lanciani.
'
"

used as a motic seat in the has been used in the restoration

is this,behind the Palazzo Cini,in the Piazza Orfanelli, of of a palace c. 1350, with Capranica, occupying part The opposite church, S. Maria in Aquiro, recalls gothicwindows. of the Equina, celebrated in ancient annals the column by its name certain games the place where and horse-races, as instituted by Ovid describes them in his Fasti. celebrated. The Komulus, were founded church but rebuilt under Francesco da was c. was 400, in Aquiro was Volterra in 1590. S. Maria sometimes called Ad from a memorial Arcum Pacis,' arch, to which the legend of the transferred from the Forum of Trajanwas of Trajan, justice probably of a sculpture and account on a here, existing representing suppliant Close to the Teatro
'

nation of the

at the feet of

an

emperor,

which

was

mistaken

for the widow

legend.

' the emperor In this place, upon a was ready in his chariot to go time, when fell at his feet,weeping and crying, "O forth to war, a poor widow lord, my before thou goest,let me have justice" And he promised her that on his return thou shalt die first." he would do her full right; but she said, " Peradventure This considering,the emperor leapt from his chariot,and held his consistoiyon the woman the spot. And hath man said, "I had one only son, and a young " The murderer," said slain him." Upon this saying the emperor gave sentence. he, "shall die,he shall not live." "Thy son, then," said she, "shall die, for it he was led to death, is he that,playing with my son, hath slain him." But when the woman the young that is to die be given man sighed aloud, and said, "Let in the stead of my unto me son ; so shall I be recompensed, else I shall never confess that I have had full right." This therefore was done, and the woman Orbis Romae, Eng. Vers, departed with rich giftsfrom the emperor.' Mirabilm of F. M. Nichols.
"

small increase of width in the Corso is now by the dignified of the Piazza Sciarra. The street which turns oflf hence (Via leads to the Fountain de Muratte, on the left) of Trevi, erected in The statue of Neptune is XII. 1735 by Niccolo Salvi for Clement Bracci. Pietro by
A
name

far beyond the aqueducts, and first led Agi'ippa to its well-springsby as pure as the virgin who In the design of the fountain, some her father's door. sculptor of Beririni's school has gone It is a great palace-front,with absolutely mad, in marble. niches and many out of which looks Agrippa's legendary virgin,and bas-reliefs, several of the allegoric sisterhood : while at the base appears Neptune with his floundering steeds and tritons blowing their horns about him, and twenty other which the calm artificial fantasies, moonlight soothes into l^etter taste than is native to them. And, after all,it is as magnificent a piece of work as ever is strewn, with careskill contrived. At the foot of the palatialfac^ade human ful art and ordered regularity, and broken heap of massive rock, looking a broad have lain there since the deluge. Over a central precipicefalls the as if it may all sides, on water, in a semicircular cascade ; and from a hundred crevices, and nostrils of stone jetsgush xip, and streams snowy spout out of the mouths tliat have run wild, monsters, and fall in glisteningdrops ; while other rivulets, come leaping from one riule step to another, over stones that are mossy, shining, and green with sedge, because, in a century of their wild play, Nature has adopted the fountain of Trevi, with all its elaborate devices, for her own. Finally, the water, tumbling, sparkling, and dashing, with joyous haste and The

'

fountain

walls, whence sparkles forth

of Trevi draws its precious water from a source it flows hitherward througli old subterranean

52
'

Walks

in Rome

Son escalier, Castellani est rhomme qui a ressuscite la bijouterieromaine. entrons et de bas-reliefs antiques, fait croire nous tapisse d'inscriptions que aussi ei'udit que les archeologues fait voir Un jeune marchand dans un mus6e. les epoques, collection de bijoux anciens de toutes une depuis les originesde oii Castellani puise les C'est la soiirce I'Etrurie jusqu'au siecle de Constantin. du Palaiselements d'un art nouveau qui detronera avant dix ans la pacotille

Royal.' About,
"

'Borne

Contemporaine.'

retrouvees dans les tombes de I'Etrurie, des des parures C'est en s'inspirant bracelets et des colliers dont se paraient les fenimes etrusques et sabines,que M. Castellani, guid6 par le gofttsavant et ing6nieux d'un homme qui porte dignementl'ancien de Caetani, a introduit dans la bijouterie un styleh la fois nom les artistes les plus originaux de Kome sont cerParmi classique et nouveau. Castellani et D. Miguele Caetani, due de Serraoneta.' tainement les orfevres Ampere, Hist. Rom. i. 388.
'
"

Risparmio, in the Piazza Sciarra, occupiesthe site quented (closed1868),freVeneziano, the oldest CaSh in Rome "c. by Metastasio,Monti, Rossini, The Palazzo Sciarra (on left of the Corso), built in 1603 from Flaminio of contains, or Ponzio, with an admirable portico, designs of pictures, contained, a gallery upon which no ordinary visitor has of an in consequence looked since the change of Government, for them the attempt made by the authorities to seize iniquitous the private These state. property of Prince picturesare or were the where Miss in Palazzo Sciarra. Barberini, They were originally ^ describes them in 1784, but came .to the family of Sciarra, Berry heiresses. divided between two the Barberini when were pictures
The Cassa of the Caffe del The
out

six celebrated of Italy, were

Fra Bartolommeo

gems
:
"

of the

now gallery,

believed

to

be taken

Paolino. ascribed The Holy Family. Sometimes or Fra Albertinelli. Marone of Brescia ?). The Violin Player (theimprovisatore Andrea Raffaelle. del Piombo. to be by Sebastiano This picture is often considered Caravaggio. The Gamblers. Luini ?). Modesty and Vanity. da Vriici ." Leonardo (or Bernardino di Tiziano.' Titian. 'La Bella Donna Sometimes supposed to represent Donna Laura Eustachio,the peasant Duchess of Alphonso I. of Ferrara. This pictiu"e is sometimes attributed to Palma Vecchio. Guido Reni. della Kadice. La Maddalena
to Mariotto

and arches Four five piers of the aqueduct of Aqua Virgine remained till recentlyin the courtyard of the palace. of a The Piazza Sciarra was disgracedby the ferocious murder when the moment the the at high-minded priestby people, very the final atrocityof French, under Oudinot, were enteringRome the republicans of 1848.
"

the Piazza Sciarra, the Corso (asVia Flaminia) was formerly the Aqua Virgine), spanned by the Arch of Claudius (supporting removed in the in 1527. Some reliefs from this arch are preserved mutilated, are portico of the Villa Borghese, and, though much the of fine workmanship. The inscription, which commemorated Near erection of the arch in honour of the in the courtyard of the Barberini
1

is preconquest of Britain, served Palace.

Journals.

La
On

Caravita

"

S.

Ignazio

53

taining the rightof the Piazza Sciarra is the Via della Caravita,conthe used for the small but popularChurch of the Caravita,^ for their terrible exercises of the Jesuits,especially religious peculiar ' most ordinary extrathe of which one are Lenten services, flagellation
'

afforded by Catholic sights

'

Eome.

of the convents, still of pious whippings,one of the penances The ceremony of Padre the of in the Caravita, and in time takes place at the oratory vespers It is preceded by a short exhortation,dvu-ingwhich in Home. church another whipcord, are distributed bell rings, and whips, that is,strings of knotted a On knees in the nave. of their audience such the as are on quietly amongst the candles are extinguished" a loud voice issues from the altar, a second bell, which pours forth an exhortation to think of unconfessed, or unrepented,or unto strip to allow the kneelers This continues a sufficient time forgiven crimes. loudly at each off their upper garments ; the tone of the preacher is raised more word, and he vehemently exhorts his hearers to recollect that Christ and the than whipping. more "Show, then, your penitencemartyrs suffered much with the whip." The flagellation show it of Christ's sacrifice" show sense your in every direction" of blows sound begins. The darkness, the tumultuous " I'.lessedVirgin Mary, pray for us ! bursting out at intervals ; the persuasion of an that you are surrounded by atrocious culprits and maniacs, who know absolution for every crime, so far from exciting a smile, fixes you to the spot in of restless horror, prolonged beyond bearing. The scourging continues a trance ten or fifteen minutes.'" Xord Broughton.
"

After a short Each man on entering the church was suppliedwith a scourge. praying, the interval the doors were ; and from barred,the lights extinguished worked and to b eing up into a finally, groaning, crying, congregation proceeded shoulders without to their uncovered kind of ecstatic fury,applied the scourge mercy.' Whiteside's 'Italy in the Nineteenth Century.'
'
"

Caravita, facing a pretty little piazza of peculiar arrangement, is the Church of S. Ignazio,built by Cardinal Ludovisi. Its proportions are singularly noble ; the fagade,of 1685, of Gregory XV. church the tomb contains is by Algardi. This 1621-23),and that of S. Luigi Gonzaga, both sculptured (Ludovisi, Gros. by Le

B6yond

the

young Roman did Clytie on

not a few of the In S. Ignazio is the chapel of San Luigi Gonzaga, on whom kind of admiration as damsels look with something of the same he and S. Sebastian, these two young, beautiful, Apollo, whom His festa falls in graceful saints, very fairlyrepresent in Christian mythology. in flowers, arranged with exquisitetaste ; June, and then his altar is embosomed be seen at its foot, written to the saint by young men and a pile of letters may and maidens, and directed to Paradiso. They are supposed to be burnt unread, except by San Luigi, who must find singular petitions in these pretty little with a with a green ribbon, expressive of hope ; now missives, tied up now colour the writer may of love,or whatever other significant redjone,emblematic Mademoiselle Mori. T^reier.'"
'

The

frescoes

on

the roof and

tribune

are

by

the Padre

Pozzi.

'Amid the many whom the Jesuits sent forth to every distinguished men unless it be of a single artist, region of the world, I cannot recollect the name for his skill in perspective,aJid who the Father Pozzi,renowned used his skill less as an artist than a conjurer, to produce such illusions as make the vulgar stare ;" to make the impalpable to the grasp as palpable to the vision ; appear the near the distant near ; the unreal, real ; to cheat the eye ; to seem distant,
1

So called from

the Jesuit father of that

name,

who

lived in the seventeenth

centmy.

54

Walks

in Rome

Pozzi dazzle the sense most cunningly achieved in the ;" all this has Father and Sant' Ignazio at E,ome ; but nothing more, and nothing l)etter than Gesu and of his wonderful this. I wearied of his altar-pieces roofs which pretend to and deceptions in art should all be kept for be no roofs at all. Scheme, tricks, the theatre. It appeared to me nothing less than profane to introduce shams into the temples of God." Mrs. Jameson.
"

the left of the Corso Palazzo Simonopposite the handsome is the Church of S. Marcello (Pope,308-10)/ containing some modern monuments. Among them are those of Pierre interesting Weld. the traveller (ob.1555),and of the English Cardinal Gilles, Cardinal the and minister of Here famous liberal also, Consalvi, Pius VII. the last great papal minister is buried in the same Consalvi. tomb with his beloved younger Marchese Andrea brother, Their monument, by Kinaldi,tells that here repose the bodies of On etti
" "

"

"

two

brothers

"

'

Qui

cum

Una

dum vivebant dilexissent Corpore etiam sua eademque urna condi voluere.'

singular!amore

Se mutuo

which made the reputation of Pierinn Here are the masterpieces del Varja (1501-47). In the chapel of the Virgin are the cherubs, whose and exquisiteflesh-tints Vasari declares movements graceful In the chapel of to have been unsurpassed by any artist in fresco. beautiful. the Crucifix is the Creation of Eve, which is even more
The perfectlybeautiful figureof the naked Adam is seen lying overpowered and with folded hands, rises to receive the by sleep,while Eve, filled with life, a most blessing of her Maker" grand and solemn figurestanding erect in heavy drapery.' Vasari, iv.
"

'

is said to occupy the site of a house of the Christian incurred in matron died of wounds Marcellus Lucina, in which It his Christian followers. attempting to settle a quarrel among after his it front in of that the of the tribune was Rienzi, body the Capitolsteps,was murder on hung up by the feet for two days for the rabble to throw stones at. as a mark founded The next street to the right leads to the Collegio Romano, of Pope by S. Francesco Borgia,Duke of Gandia (a descendant of the Alexander amid the VI.),who, after a youth spent splendours Court of Madrid, retired to Rome in 1550, in the time of Julius III., and became the successor of IgnatiusLoyola as general of the This church The buildingswere see them, by Amerected,as we now in for the Till XIII. 1870 college was manati, 1582, Gregory like entirelyunder the superintendence of the Jesuits : now, men Carducci the poet, who glorifiedSatan, and wrote a hymn in and defence of its professors. Judas sit amongst praise Iscariot, the The libraryis large and valuable. on The Musco Kircheriano, third floor, is chiefly entered from 27 Via del Collegio Romano, Jesuits.
The name of Pope" i^opa" originallybelonging to all teachers, was first applied to Pope Marcellus, in the letter of a deacon ; but it was not till4()0 that
1

the

Bishopsof

Rome

took it

formally.

The
to interesting

CoUegio Romano
10
a

55
to

admission

antiquaries. It is visible from free on holidays. It contains fr.,

and Etruscan

daily
"

number and

of antiquities

customs, many beautiful ancient bronzes. The most important object is the 'Cista Mistica,' and cover, which a bronze was vase given as a prize and which to successful gladiators, was originallyfitted up with everything useful for their profession.In the Christian collection is the curious r/roffito, usuallysupposed to representthe Crucifixion, found on the Palatine, and described in Chap. VI. Another gallery is filled with excavations recent found objects during interesting to the at Palestrina. The little cortile at the left of the entrance
contains many interesting architectural fragments, especially the base of the statue of Valens, which stood on the Pons Cestius, with an inscription. The Observatory of the Collegio has obtained a European Romano from the important astronomical researches of its late reputation famous the Padre Secchi, who died February 26, 1878. director, The Collegio Romano has produced eight popes Urban VIII., Innocent Clement Innocent X., Clement IX., Clement XI., XII., X., and Clement Innocent XIII. its other have XII. pupils Among been S. Camillo de Lellis, di Porto-Maurizio, the Blessed Leonardo the Venerable Pietro Berna, and others.
museum
"

illustrative of Roman

tin Igiiace, Franc;ois Borgia, ont pass^ par ici. Leur souvenir plane, comma encouragement et une benediction,sur ces salles on ils presiderent aux etudes. chaires on peut-etreretentit lem- parole, siir ces modestes cellules qu'ils sur ces ont habitees. A la fin dii seizieme siecle, les eleves du collegeRomain perdirent de leurs condisciples que sa douce un et ses vertus angeliques avaient amenit6 rendu avait ete page de I'objet d'un affectueux respect. Ce jeune horame et de Philippe II. ; il etait allie aux maisons royales d'Autriche, de Bourbon milieu Lorraine. Mais au de ces illusions d'une grande vie, sous brillant ce costume de coiu* qui semblait et fortune, il ne lui promettre honneurs voyait jamais que la pieuse figure de sa mere agenouillee au pied des autels,et priant pour lui. A peine Age de seize ans, il s'echappe de Madrid, il vient frapper k la Louis porte du college Romain, et demande place, au dortoir et h I'^tude, pour de Castiglione.Pendant Gonzague, fils du comte sept ans. Louis donna dans cette maison le touchant exemple d'lme vie celeste ; puis ses jours declinerent, comme parle I'Ecriture ; il avait assez \6cvi.'"Gourn"rie,Rome Chretienne,'
'

'

ii. 211.

We which

now was

reach (on right) the Church founded by Sergius I. in the time under added

the second rebuilt,

in Via Lata, eighth century, but twice the Alexander VII. in 1662, when

of S. Maria

fagadewas

by Pietro da Cortona.
handed of ettigy

' In this church they still show a little chapel in which, as hath been from the first ages, S. Luke the Evangelist wrote, and painted the down ' the Virgin Mother of God.'" "e Jameson's Sacred Art; p. 155.

The subterranean is shown in which church as the actual house S. Paul lodged when he was in Rome. It belonged to Martialis, whom beautiful a tradition identifies with the child who was blessed the Divine when Suffer He said, little especially by Master, children to come unto nie,' and who, ever after a faithful follower of Christ, bore the basket of bread and fishes in the wilderness,and served at table duringthe Last Supper.
'

56
'

Walks
And when
we came :

in Rome

to

Rome,
was

captain of the guard that kept him.

'

but Paul

delivered the prisoners to the the centmion suffered to dwell by himself with a soldier

And

when

they had

appointed him
out
.
. .

lodging:
them

to whom

he expounded

from
'

concerning Jesus, both morning till evening.

to him into his a day, there came many and testified the kingdom of God, persuading of the law of Moses and out of the i)rophets,

hired house, and received all that Paul dwelt two whole years in his own in unto came him, preaching the kingdom of God, and teaching those things the Lord which JesTis Christ,with all confidence,no man concern forbidding him.'" ^cte xxviii. 16, 23,30, 31.
And

S. Paul, after his arrival in Rome, having made his usual in the first effort, for the of his salvation own as place, countrymen, and, usual,having found it he was and during two whole a vain, turned to the Gentiles, years, in which to him, preaching the kingdom of God. It was prisoner,received all that came thus that God overruled his imprisonment for the furtherance of the gospel,so that his bonds in Christ were manifest in the palace, and in all other places,and of the brethren much in the Lord, waxing confident by his bonds, were many in the palace of Nero, the most bold to speak the word without fear. Even more noxious atmosphere, as we should have concluded, for the growth of divine than manifest, the Lord Jesus was preached, and, more truth,his bonds were find the apostle writing souls ; for we this,was received to the saving of many to his Philippian converts the saints salute you, chieflythey which are of : "All '" Blunt' s Lectures Caesar's household." S. Paul. on
' chooses to speak of himself as the captive of In writing to Philemon, Paul Jesus Christ. Yet he went whither he would, and was free to receive those who to him. It is interesting to remember, amid these solemn vaults, the came different events of S. Paul's apostolate during the two years that he lived here. It was here that he converted Onesimus, that he received the presents of the to Philemon, hence that he wrote Philippians,brought by Epaphroditus ; it was here that he of Philippi and of Colosse ; it was to Titus, to the inhabitants with with that startling to the cross that glowing eagerness, preached devotion from dered eloquence, which gained fresh power contest,and which inspirationrensublime. ' to their himself to the uncircumcised Peter addressed : Paul to the Gentiles i silence that he might confound that he might humble it. it, to their reason and Had he not already converted the proconsul Sergius Paulus Dionysius the his word the courtiers of is equally powerful,and among Areopagite ? At Rome of those who are yield to the power Nero, perhaps even amongst his relations, servant.2 Around the in the of His who reveals Himself each of God, teachings themselves" Onesiphorus of Ephesus, who was Apostle his eager disciples group of his chain ; Epaphras of Colosse, who not ashamed was captive with him, * of in master who with his a holy union ineus was one Timothy, concaptivus ; nias, attached to him like a son, sicut patn films;^ Herwas evei"y thought, and who the physician, the faithful companion Aristarchus, Marcus, Demas, and Luke of the Apostle, his well-beloved disciple"" Lucas medicus carissimus." '" From Gournerie, ' Jtome Chrctienne.'
"

'

'^

for this reason I honour Rome ; for though I could celebrate her praises on other accounts" for her greatness,for her beauty, for her power, for her wealth, and for her warlike exploits"yet,passing over all these things, I glorify her on this account, that Paul in his lifetime wrote to the Romans, and loved them, and was present with and conversed with them, and ended his life amongst them. Wherefore the cityis on this account renowned than on all others more this account I admire of her gold, her columns, or her on her, not on account other splendid decorations.'" 5". John Chrysostom, Homily on the Ep. to the Romans.

'

many

"

' The Roman Jews expressed a wish to hear from S. Paul himself a statement of his religious sentiments, adding that the Christian sect was everywhere spoken A day was fixed for the meeting at his private lodging. against.
...

Gal, ii.7.
"1

phii. iv. 22.

"'

2 Tim.

i. IG.

Philem.

23.

Phil. ii. 22.

S. Maria
'The Jews
came

in Via
at the

Lata

57

Then followed an appointed time. the Apostle pleading long and impressive scene, (Acts xxi.)" testimony concerning the kingdom of (}od" and endeavouring earnestly" l)earing from their own t")pereuade them by ai-guments drawn Scriptures" "from morning not peace, Imt a till evening." The result was the auditors"" a division among sword ""the division which has resulted ever since,when the Truth of God has honest I'ncountered,side l)yside, earnest conviction with worldly indifference, of with trustful with the faith scepticism. pride investigation bigoted prejudice, After a long and stormy discussion,the unbelieving portion departed ; but not until S. Paul had warned bringing upon them, in one last address,that they were in their denounced of judicialblindness which themselves that awful doom was own Scriptures against obstinate unbelievers ; that the salvation which they from them, and the inheritance they renounced rejected would be witlulrawn with which he gave emphasis to be given to the Gentiles. would The sentence this solemn warning was that passage in Isaiah which, recurring thus with solemn to bring very strikingly force at the very close of the Apostolic history,seems the ministry of our together the Old Dispensation and the New, and to connect Lord with that of His Apostles : "Go unto this people and say : Hearing ye shall hear and shall not understand, and seeing ye shall see and shall not perceive : for the heart of this people is waxed dull of hearing, and their ears are gross, and their eyes have they closed ; lest they should see with their eyes, and hear with their ears, and understand with their heart, and should be converted, and
In

great numbers

like that

at Troas

I should
'
.

heal them."

not reduced, as he had During the long delay of his trial S. Paul was been at Caesarea, to a forced inactivity. On the contrary, he was permitted the of with his friends, and was to reside in a house freest intercourse allowed sufficient size to accommodate the congregation which flocked together to listen to his teaching. The freest scope was given to his labours, consistent with the militarycustody under which he was placed. We are told,in language peculiarly And that emphatic, that his preaching was subjected to no restraint whatevei*. of which at first to impede, must the seemed have impression deepened really his eloquence ; for who could see without emotion that venerable form subjected control stood beside him ? how of the soldier who by iron links to the coarse often must the teai-s of the assembly have been called forth by the upraising of that fettered hand, and the clankingof the chain which checked its energetic
.
.

action !

shalKsee hereafter that these labours of the imprisoned Confessor were while, Meanfruitless ; in his own children in his chains." words, he " begot many the metropolis of the world. he had a wider sphere of action than even Xot only "the crowd of all which but also " the care pressed upon him daily," the churches," demanded To enable his constant vigilance and exertion. him to maintain faithful this superintendence, he manifestly needed many him who men profitable messengers; (as he says of one of them) "rendered service ; and by some of whom to have he seems been constantly accompanied wheresoever he went. ment, imprisonAccordingly we find him, during this Roman of his oldest and most surrounded valued attendants. Luke, his by many remained with him during his bondage ; Timotheus, his beloved fellow-traveller, in the faith, ministered to him at Rome, as he had done in Asia, in Macedonia, son and in Achaia. from Corinth Tychicus, who had formerly lx)rne him company to Ephesus, is now at hand to carry his letters to the shores which they had visited together. But there are two names companions amongst his Roman which excite a peculiar interest, the names of though from opposite reasons Demas The latter, and of Mark. the unhappy when last we heard of him, was of the separation of Barnabas and Paul. He was cause worthy rejected by Paul, as unto attend the work of the him, because he had previously abandoned It is delightfulto find him now gospel out of timidity or indolence. ministering obediently U) the very Apostle who had then repudiated his services ; still more, to know that he persevered in this fidelity sent for by to the end, and was even S. Paul to cheer his dying hours. a faithful Demas, on the other hand, is now "fellow-labourer" of the Apostle ; but in a few years we shall find that he had " forsaken" him, having "loved this present world." ' two whom Amongst the rest of S. Paul's companions at this time, there were he distinguishesby the honourable title of his "fellow-prisoners." One of these the other Epapliras. With Aristarchus, regard to the fomier, we know that
We not
...

'

"

"

58

Walks

in Rome

of Thessalonica, one of "Paul's companions in travel," he was a Macedonian whose life was endangered by the mob with S. Paul atEphesus, andjwho embarked he set sail for Home. The other, Epaphras, was at Caesarea when a Colossian, who must not be identified with the Philippian Epaphroditus, another of S. Paul's fellow-labourers It is not easy to say in what exact sense these during this time. two disciples of S. Paul. were peculiarly /eWojw-^^moiiers Perhaps it only implies that they dwelt in his house, which was also his prison. ' But of all the disciples now ministering to S. Paul at Kome, none has a greater interest than the fugitive Asiatic slave Onesimus. He belonged to a Christian of the Colossian named his Church. But he had robbed Philemon, a member Here he was master, and fled from Colosse,and at last found his way to Rome. to the faith of Christ,and had confessed to S. Paul his sins against his converted master.' Conybeare and Uowson, Life of S. Paul.
"

contained the same 'Home on as day within her walls such men Sophonius Tigellinus,Nero, Seneca, Thrasea Paetus, and Paul of Tarsus ; gradations of himian nature, from the devilish worshipper of sensualityto the wox'shipper of of thorns. the Ideal in the crown They might have trodden the pavement of the Forum at the same And while the court Epicureans, who made moment. beauty have made faith independent as independent of morality as a later age would religious of reason, of that held their wild revels on the Palatine,in the Ghetto the poor tent-maker from Cilicia, time walked looking compassionately on these in frame" and absorbed orgies of the flesh" for he felt their might in his own the great mystery of salvation,the annihilation of sin,and the reunion of enlng to a spiritualbody in the true ideal of beauty, the First-born of the mankind creation.'" Fiitor

Rydberg.

A fountain up in answer
to

in the

crypt is shown,

as

having miraculously sprung

withal to the prayers of S. Paul, that he might have whereend of the his At the baptize disciples. crypt are some

large blocks of peperino,said to be remains of the arch erected by and destroyed the senate in honour of the Emperor Gordian III., the these remains, and others under By some by Innocent VIII. of remains the Palazzo to be are Julia, Doria, Septa supposed covered porticoes for the use of the Roman people, begun by Julius
and finished by Agrippa in 27 B.C.the church, is a quaintlittle On the side of the Via Lata, opposite fountain of a man with a barrel, w^hence pours the water ; removed from the Corso in 1872. extends the facade of Far along the rightside of the Corso now Valvasori the immense built Palazzo (the front towards Doria, by the CollegioRomano being by Pietro da Cortona, and that towards the Piazza Venezia by Amati). The Picture Gallery (open on
2
"

Caesar^

Tuesdays and

Fridays from
the

10 to

Piazza del contains,amid a CollegioRomano, chaos of pictorial fine works, partly collected rubbish, a by Olympia Maldacchini, partlyacquired in the time of the great
on

fasts

the

is reached day following)

at

the

back

of the very few

from palace. It

Andrea gems

Doria, and

brought

to

of the collection

(unhung

from Rome in 1896) are

Genoa.
"

Amongst

the

of making use of *Sebastiano del Pionibo. for his great power (Celebrated shown in this all the tints of the same is especially colour, which picture.) Portrait of Andrea Doria. Doria. A portraitby Bronzino is said to represent Gianetto

Cicero, Ad. Aft.

v.

16.

Dion.

Cass. liii. 23.

60
114.

Walks

in Rome

Titian ? Portrait, without reason, Marco Polo. called, Niccolaus Macciavellus, Historiar Scriptor. 116. Bronzino. 148. Vandyke. Portrait of a Widow.

The

2nd

Galleryis

decorated

with

mirrors, and
indifferent

statues

of

no

four rooms, especial merit. Hence to a Cabinet containing busts of

with

Prince Filippo,

lead pictures, Doria, his wife

Princess (Lady Mary Talbot),and her sister Gwendolen, the saintly

Borghese. Returning we
The ?.rd
257.
265,

enter

Gallery"
Holy Family. Meeting of Mary and Elisabeth.
and
A

errata. Sassof

Portrait. 278. Garofalo (1519), The Madonna 296. Guido Reni.

Titian.

SleepingChild.

in rosso-antico, Great Hall contains in the centre a Centaur in the Villa of Pompey at Albano. Round the walls are four with reliefs of the Hunt of Meleager, the story of fine sarcophagi, Marsyas, Endymion and Diana, and a Bacchic procession. Of two ancient the pedestal of a bearded circular altars, one as serves Dionysius. Noah's Sacrifice is a large but feeble work of Pietro cla Cortona. The found
' '

The Uh

Gallery"

402. 408.

387. Quentin Matsys. The Misers. ? The Saci'iflceof Isaac. Rembrandt who was the confessor of the artist. Rubens. Portrait of a Monk 414. Titian (called Pordenone). The Daughter of Herodias. A grand bust of Andrea Doria. da Vinci. Joanna of AiTagon. imitation of Leonardo 418. A feeble Flemish to L'Ortolano). The Nativity" a beautiful picture. 422. Garofalo (ascribed In the whole immense
so

of the Palazzo Doria, I saw but a single rooms wall that no amount of blaze would raise the of the palace, or any of his ten degrees. If the builder room crimes have committed worthy of Tophet, it would be a still worse successors, perpetually through this suite of rooms, on the punisliment to him to wander cold floors of polished brick tiles, or marble, or mosaic, growing a littlechillier chillier through every of eternity, at least till the palace or and moment crumbles down him.'" Hawthorne, ^ Notes on Italy.' upon
'

range

of

and that fireplace, atmosphere of the

deep

in the

where Cardinal Oppositethe Palazzo Doria is the Palazzo Salviati, du Barri,held his court ; and de Bernis, the favourite of Madame ' du Roi when sailles received Mesdames Tantes they fled from VerRevolution. two streets The the next at the Great on Santi into the left lead Piazza long narrow Apostoli square, (where General Oudinot returned public thanks after the capture of Rome by the French, June 29, 1849),containing several handsome palaces. That on the right is the Palazzo Odescalchi, built by merly Bernini, in 16G0, for Cardinal Fabio Chigi,to whose family it forhas It and carved fine painted wooden some belonged. of the of one ceilings. This palace is supposed to be the scene
'
" "

The
latest miracles had Odescalchi of the

Palazzo

Colonna

61

Catholic Church. The Princess Koman long been bedridden, and was apparentlydying of a watching what hopeless disease,when, while her family were they considered her last moments, the pope (Pius IX.) sent, by the which of a nun, a little loaf (panetdlo), he desired her to hands swallow. With terrible effort the sick woman obeyed, and was immediately healed, and on the followingday the astonished her go in person to the pope, at the Vatican, to return Romans saw thanks for her restoration I The building at the end of the square is the Palazzo Valentini, now contained the Prefettura, which once collection of a antiquities. yard, Near this,on the left, but separated from the piazza by a courtin is the vast Palazzo the fifteenth Colonna, begun century at various later periods. Martin V. by Martin V., and continued resided here with his kindred,considering the Colonna Palace more The people tried to force his successor than the Vatican. secure (Eugenius IV.) to live here also. Julius II. at one time made the palace his residence,and also Cardinal (afterwards San Carlo) the residence Part of it is now of the French sadors. ambasBorromeo. is The built site the of the ancient near palace very fortress of the Colonna family so celebrated in times of mediaeval warfare with the Orsini of which one loftytower still remains in the a street leading Quirinal. up to 11 to 3 on from The Gallery, shown Thursdays and Saturdays, entered be Via at No. 17 della Pilotta the picturcan only now esque of the palace. Hence street at the back at once you reach the Great Hall, a truly grand room, with mirrors and hung and with geniiby Maratta. painted with flowers by Mario de' Fiori, The here are statues unimportant. The ceilingis adorned with by CoH and Gherardi, of the battle of Lepanto, Oct. 8, paintings, Colonna Marc -Antonio assisted in gaining. The 1571, which best pictures are the family portraits : Federigo Colonna, SustcrDon Carlo Colonna, Vandyke; Card. Pompeio Colonna, manns ; Lorenzo Lotto ; Vittoria Colonna, Muziano ; Lucrezia Colonna, of the artist in Rome) ; Pompeio Colonna, best work Vandyke (the Caracci ; Giacomo Sciarra Colonna, Giorgione.We Afjostino may also notice an extraordinarypicture of the Madonna rescuinga child from a demon, by Niccolo d' Alunno, with two male figures, old are some by Tintoret. Near the entrance cabinets, glorious inlaid with ivory and On the steps leading to the lapis-lazuli. left on the spot where it fell during upper end of the hall is a bomb the siege of Rome in 1848.
" " "

'

The

Galleria

is itself too brilliant

picture for tlie pictures which

it

tains.'" con-

Forsyth.
From the lower end of the Great Hall, on the right, enter we The \st Room. The ceiling has a fresco, by Battoni and Luti,of the apotheosis of Martin V. (Oddone Colonna, 1417-24) the Colonnas rise from the grave bearing the column, the heraldic emblem of their race. The pictures include
"
"

"

62
Paolo

Walks

in Rome

Veronese. A portrait. Lorenzo Colonna. Ann. Caracci. Peasant dining Titian. Onuphrio Pavinio. Giov. Bellini ? S. Bernard.

Holbein.

Room has including Madonnas

The

Srd

an

collection of the earlyschools, interesting of FUippo Lippi, Luca Lomjhi, Botticelli,

Gentile da Fahriano, Innocenzo da Imola ; a curious Crucifixion, by Jacopo d' Avanzo ; and a portrait by Giovanni Sanzio, father of Raffaelle. lead into a fine,gloomy old hall, These containingthe family three dais,and hung with decaying Colonna portraits.Then come covered with tapestries, the last containinga pretty statue rooms of a girl, not often shown, sometimes called Niobe. the be obtained to the beautiful access (Through palace may Gardens Colonna they are generally visited from the ; but, as of the hill.) they will be noticed in the description Quirinal,
' de tons ses biens en 1100 par le pape On parle d'un Pierre Colonna, depouille Pascal II. II fallait que la faniille fut deja passablement ancienne, car les grandes About. fortunes ne sulevent pas en un joxiT.'"

Si'ln'etoit le different des Ursins et de Colonnois habitation pour seroit la plus heureiuse de I'Eglise le monde.' Phillippede Comines, 1500.
'
"

les

[Orsiniand Colonna] la terre qui soit en tout subjects,

'

Gloriosa
Nostra

Coloiuia,in cui s' appoggia

sperauza,
e

'1 gran

nome

latino, Petrarca,Sonctto

Ch' ancor torse dal non L' ira di Giove per ventosa

vero

cammino
x.

pioggia.'

fine Church of the Santi Martin V. in century, rebuilt by The porticocontains 1420, and modernised, c. 1602, by Fontana. a magnificent bas-relief of an (frequently eagle and an oak-wreath brought from the copied and introduced in architectural designs),

Adjoining the

Apostoli, founded

Palazzo Colonna in the sixth

is the

Forum'

of

Trajan.

le portique de I'eglise des Saints- Apotres, et vous trouverez la, Entrez sous d'un magniencadre un aiglequ'entoure une couronne par liasard dans le mur, la cet et Vous reconnaitrez dans cette travail. facilement couronne aigle tique les bas-reliefs de la colonne d'une enseigne romaiue, telle que representation ce qui etait lu en petit est ici Trajane vous en ont montre plusieurs; seulement en grand.' Ampere, Emp. ii. 168.
"

lion the eagle is a quaint thirteenth-century opus of the Vassallecti since removed, Government, change magistri famous the front of the church towards the piazza. The from mentioned in the Bull of John ccdix marrnorcus III.,A.D. a vase determined 570, by which the boundary-line of the parish was Also in the portico has been removed to the Baths of Diocletian. The church is a monument, the to by dinova, Volpato engraver. Over the is the stately burial-place of Colonna. of the house door is also the tomb XIV. (Giov.Antonio of Pope Clement sacristy 1769-74),also by Canova, executed in his twenty-fifth Ganganelli, Beneath
"

'

'

"

"

"

The
year.

Santi

Apostoli

63

the last pope who took part in the public XIV. was Clement ' to the Lateran of the cavalcata (Nov. 26, 1769),riding, procession covered white palfrey, as popes had always done hitherto,upon a cloth. He was saddle velvet gold embroidered with a crimson Jesuits the administered died from by poison supposed to have
'
-

30, 1774). (Sept.

'

The

eveiT

of his and all the circumstances nature of the Pope'sillness, Bemis. de natxiTal.'" Cardinal could not be believe it one
'

death,make

Mori

Clemente,
nel trasse
man

Fa Che

imprimerci nel

D" occulta

morir fatale alto spavento al lugubre fiinerale venefico ardimento.

e

il suo
cuore

'

Contemporary
'

Verses. epoque,

La

niort

do

Clement

XIV,

est du

22

Septembre

1774.

cette

de de Sainte-Agathe des Goths, au royaume Alphonse de Liguori 6tait eveque de somdans une N uples. Le 22 Septembre, au matin, I'eveque tomba espece uieil lothargique apres avoir dit la messe, et, pendant vingt-quatre heures, il de cet Ses serviteurs s'etonnant fauteuil. dans son assiste lui :" " Vous ne savez "que j'ai pas,"leur dit-il, la nouvelle du d6c6s de Clement Pen vient de moiulr." le pape apres, que ' ii.3G2. arriva ii Sainte-Agathe.'" Chritienne,' GoMr/ierw?,
ilemeura etat,le
sans

mouvement
avec

lendemain,

the Less, In 1873 the traditional grave of S. Philipand S. James the Apostoli to whom this church is dedicated,was opened during bodies were restoration. Two its found, enclosed in a sarcophagus of beautiful transparentmarble, and have been duly enshrined. of the fifteenth century ; In the choir are two beautiful monuments admirable the left is that with an on portraitstatue to Piero and luxurious Riario, the profligate nephew of Sixtus IV., made who flaunted his mistresses in attire of such cardinal at twenty-five, embroidered with their slippers costliness that even were surpassing o f Cardinal with the is the On a portrait, monument, pearls. right it the tomb of Gerard Anseduno, who Raffaello Riario, and beneath familiae maitre-d'hotel (' married a niece of Pope Julius II. and was and Louis XII. of France. The tomb to Charles VIII. praefectus') removed from the church in 1702, to the of Cardinal Bessarion was of the is the residence cloisters of the adjoiningConvent, which ' General of the order of Minori Conventuali (Black Friars). The the martyrdom of SS. Philip by Muratori, represents altarpiece, and James. of the the right is the monument on Against the second pillar in wife heart of Maria Sobieski (buried S. Peter's), of Clementina James called the Old Pretender,as is shown by the inscription, III., Hie Clementinae coelestis fecit ne remanent nam cor praecordia,
'
'

'

'

superesset amor.
'

'

Le roi d'Angleterre est diivot a I'exces ; sa matinoe se passe de sa fenime. '"Z"c Brosses,1739. Saints-ApOtres, pres du tombeau
' '

en

aux prii;res

Here also the Old Pretender (Chevalierde S. George) himself lay in state for five days, crowned, sceptred,and in royal robes, under a canopy inscribed 'Jacobus, Magnae I3ritanniae Rex, Anno
"

MDCCLXVL'

64

Walks

in Rome
for the
sermons

In 1552 this church was remarkable Felix Peretti, afterwards Sixtus V.

of the monk

' Suivant un manuscrit de la bibliotlieque un Alfieri, jour,pendant qu'iletait dans la chaire des Saints-Apotres,un billet cachete lui fut remis ; Frere F"lix face d'un certain nombre I'ouvre et y lit, en de propositions que Ton disait etre extraites de ses discours,ce mot ecrit en gros caracteres : Mkntiris (tumens). Le fougueux orateur eut peine a contenir son emotion son sermon eu ; il termina quelques paroles,et courut au palaisde I'lnquisition presenter le billet mysterieux et demander lui fut qu'on examinat scrupuleusement sa doctrine. Cet examen favorable, et il lui valut I'amitie du grand inquisiteur,Michel Ghislieri, qui dont les moindres comprit aussitot tout le parti qu'on pouvait tirer d'un homme actions etaient empreintes d'une inebranlable force de caractere. '"Gowrnerie.

is buried the young Countess In this church the story Savorelli, of whose love, misfortunes,and death has been celebrated by of Tolla (the Leilo of the story having been About, under the name of the Doria-Pamfili one family).
The convent which Tolla had sanctified by her death sent three embassies in her relics : already the people spoke of her as a saint. to beg to preserve But considered that it was due to his honour Count Feraldi (Savorelli) and to his to the to bear her remains with tomb of his family. He had pomp vengeance sufficient influence to obtain that for which permission is not granted once in ten of white velvet,and a bed years : the right of transporting her uncovered, upon of a coffin. The beloved remains of sparing her the horrors were wrapped in the in the garden on the day when she exchanged white muslin robe which she wore with Lello. The Marchesa her sweet vows Trasimeni, ill and wasted as she was, her hair in the manner she loved. herself to arrange came Every garden in Rome The only necessary to choose. despoiled itself to send her its flowers ; it was funeral procession quitted the church of S. Antonio Abbate on Thursday evening the Feraldi buried. The are at 7.30 for the Santi Apostoli, where body was each bearing its preceded by a long fileof the black and white confraternities, the countenance of the beautiful The red lightof the torches played upon banner. The piazza was to animate her afresh. filled with a dense dead, and seemed crowd ; no discordant sound troubled the grief of and closelypacked but dumb the relations and friends of Tolla, who wept together at the Palazzo Feraldi. ' of the poor loving girlbecome of the Apostoli and the tomb at The Church than one young Roman certain days of the year an object of pilgrimage,and more adds to her evening litany the words, " St, Tolla,virgin and martyr, pray maiden About. for us."'
turn
. .
. "

'

church is the Palazzo Muti-Pappazzuri or Savorelli where James of Tolla, 'Palazzo Feraldi'), the 'Old III., (the home The house w^as Pretender,'died in 1766. long the residence of III. Prince Charles Edward (the 'Young Pretender,' son of James who born here in and died was and Clementina 1720, Sobieski), of his daughter by Miss arms here January 31, 1788, in the Walkenshaw (Duchess of Albany). Cardinal York used to drive with four horses, full-gallop, attended Albano hither from by active and well-trained that they so running footmen, who were Mann Sir Horace mentions in could tire out the fleetest horse.^ that the Eomans used call to the of his letters (May 2, 1772) one from the situation wife of Charles Edward Regina apostolorum,' of her palace.^The Palazzo Savorelli has buried the site of the Just

beyond the

'

1 2

Silvagni.
of

III. exhibited at the market-cross The proclamation of James plate of Cardinal in '45,his shoe-buckles, and the communion at the Scotch College in Via Quattro Fontane.

Edinburgh
are

York,

served pre-

Piazza
central oftice of the Roman
under the

di Venezia

65

discovered It was firemen. or Vigiles mosaic with walls and consisted of hnge 1644, main stations There were seven (stationes) pavements and statues. of the fire brigadein Rome. and fourteen offshoots {cxcuhitoria) merly Palazzo Bonaparte (forReturning to the Corso, we pass (right) There is a dei Rossi in 1660. D'Asti),built by Giovanni giganticstatue of Napoleon I. oppositethe foot of the staircase. * Madame Mere '"the mother of Napoleon Here Laetitia Bonaparte and died simplicity, I.,three kings and a queen, lived in dignified fee of for the When she a was dying, porter, February 2, 1836.

palace in

"

one

scudo, used to let people in to look at her through the crevices Princes Bonaparte represent the fusion of a screen.^ The Roman of the two lines of Joseph and Lucien, brothers of Napoleon I. The Cardinal Lncien-Louis head of the family was recent Bonaparte, son and of Princess of of Prince Charles (son Zdnaide,daughter Lucien) brother is Prince of King Joseph of Spain. His only surviving Charles. of the Piazza di Venezia, which This palace forms one corner contains the ancient castellated Palace of the Republic of Venice, di Pietrasanta, del Caprino and Giacomo erected in 14G8 by Meo built for the It was with materials plundered from the Coliseum. of Venetian and merciful Pope Pius II.,who was firm,sagacious, election to after his and continued birth. He built it as cardinal, The Capimake it his chief residence in preferenceto the Vatican. here formed collection to the best bronzes toline Museum its owes the palace fell into the by Pius II. On the ruin of the republic sador, hands of Austria, and is stillthe residence of the Austrian ambasVenice of the cession reserved on it was to whom speciallv
to

Italy.
on Oppositethis, a

the Corso,is the Palazzo Torlonia built by Fontana in 1050 for the Bolognetti (formerlyFrangipani), founded of Torlonia The was by Giovanni, mercer family family. under Pius VI. and He and draper,born in 1754. rose as a banker and united his sons and VII.,was created marquis,duke, and prince, line with families. daughterswith princely
" the fruit of wealth in Italy than in England. Here, more Nobility is certainly who can where a title and estate are sold together,a man buy the one secures riches may Fi-oni the station of a lacquey, an Italian who can amass the other. rise to that of duke. Thus, Torlonia,the Roman banker, who purchased the di Torlonia Nuovo di Bracciano, fitted up the "Palazzo title and estate of the Duca with all the magnitlcence that wealth commands, and a marble gallery, and gilded furniture, with its polished floors, modern statues, painted ceilings, far outshines the faded splendour of the halls of the old Roman nobility.*" Eaton's ' lioine.'
"

Un et banquier, achate un ancien domesticiue de place,devenu spticulateur niarqiiisat, puis uiie principauto. II crue un majorat pour son flls aTn6 et une Sforza-Cesarini et marie L'un Spouse une faveur de I'autre. seconde gtiiiture en fllsa une ses deux Chigi et une Ruspoli ; I'autre obtient pour femme une Colonnaet la faveur Doria. C'est ainsi que la famille Torlonia,par la puissance de I'argent des plus grandes s'est cdevee prcscpie :\ la hauteur subitement du saint-pore, ct Uod"les.'" About. maisons nt-potiques
'

Dr.

Reminiscences. Wellesley's
E

VOL.

I.

66
The
most

Walks

in Rome

of the antiquities in this palaceis interesting preserved combat between and a men bas-relief, animals,brought representing hither from the Palazzo Orsini,and probably portraying the famous

of the theatre of Marcellus on that site, celebrated by the six hundred A handsome animals. suite of rooms, bequeathed to the town by Don Giovanni Torlonia,is open to the publicon Tuesdays and Fridays from 11 to 2,and will be interesting have not other opportunities of seeing the furniture and to those who Roman old o f an palace. fittings narrowed The end of the Corso by a projecting wing of the dedication

slaughterof

"

known the Eipresa dei Barberi, because Venetian Palace" was as which the the hor.-es in there ran races during the Carnival were the street to prevent caught in largefolds of draperylet down across An their dashing themselves to pieces againstthe oppositewall. attempt has been made to sacrifice the wing of the grand historic to palace in order to allow a better view of the trashy monument of Paul III., to obtain a site for which Victor Emmanuel, the tower of down the Corso, was several the noblest ornament pulled years ago. Close to the end of the street,formerly built into the wall of a of the few relics of republican house in the Via di Marforio,is one which states times in the cit}'^ a Doric Tomb, bearing an inscription, erected by order of the people on land grantedby the that it was of his honours and worth,'to Caius Publicius Senate, ' on account Bibulus, the plebeian aedile,and his posterity. Petrarch mentions sonnet of his letters that he wrote in one a leaning againstthis
"

t)mb.

secondary interest as marking the commencement of the Via Flaminia, as it stood just outside the Porta Ratumena, from a that road issued. This gate took its name from whence whose horses ran chariot-driver, during races at Veil,and did away when till reached this not they they upset his car and stop spot,
The tomb

has

the opposite There are of another remains tomb killed him.^ on The Via Flaminia, like the Via Appia, was once side of the street. In of Via tombs. the 18 del No. court Ghetarello, fringed with Via di of the Via Marforio ancient which out (the Lata), are opens of of the wall of remains the Forum Caesar. outer some Julius. is supposed to mark the site of The Via Macel dei Corvi, near this, the arch called Arcus Man us Carneae in the Middle Ages. The Mirabeaten by Lucia was the Christian matron hilia narrates that when ' made her was order of Diocletian, he that smote stone, but his of the name remained flesh till the seventli day, wherefore hand this day.' In the Via of Flesh unto that place is called the Hand has Macel dei Corvi, the very picturesque house of Giulio Romano been recentlydestroyed, together with the ascent by steps to the the to artists. di Via from Marforio, a subjectwell known Capitol the dei From Barberi, a street passing (1896) under a Ripressa and loftyarch on the right leads to the back of the picturesque
1

Pliny,Hist.

Nat.

viii. 42.

68 deepest
first,
The altar
now

Walks
historical
a

in

Rome
consist he of
wrote he

interest. is that

They
in

four his died. the

chambers.
*

The

second, also
at
to

which
live

chapel, a chapel, is that he daily celebrated

under the
same

which

Constitutions.' It contains the

in which
mass,

and

autograph

ment engage-

tity, obedience, poverty, and chasOn signed by Laynez, Francis Xavier, and Ignatius Loyola. of the two its walls a are as Loyola, one portraits knight, young and Borromeo S. other as a Jesuit father, and portraits of S. Carlo in that this chamber also S. Francis Neri. It was Borgia Filippo attendant of S. Ignadied. The third room that of tne monk was tius kind the fourth is of of relics, a museum now containing ;

laws

of

portions
to

of

his

robe of the Church

in

and

small

articles

which

belonged

to

him

and

other

saints the

Order. of the Gesti is the Palazzo

Facing
Cardinal
'

Altieri, built by
Kossi.
fe

Altieri

1670, from
indubbiamente
e

designs
uno

of Giov. piii belli

Antonio
e

II

palazzo Altieri
residenza da le palais
leur oncle

dei

piu grandi di Eoma,

una

sovrani

non

da

i)Tiva.ti.'Silvagni.
II

'Quand
vitereot

la magniflcence
coeur
'

serre,

sans

las Altieri, neveux'de Clement X., ins'y fit porter, et d'aussi loin qu'il apergut et I'entendue de cette superbe chemin le fabrique, il rebroussa dire un seul mot, et mourut De Brosses. apres.' peu Altieri fut

acheve,

h le venir

voir.

"

On

the

staircase

of the

Palazzo

Altieri

is

an

ancient
a

colossal

m"Thle Eaton.

finger,^of

such

extraordinary Altieri
came

size, that claim into

an

it is really worth

\isit.'" Mrs.

The

probably
residence died
a

of Constantine, origin of the time Otho III. Their palace was Italy with

but the

of

the
to

noble-hearted his devotion

vicar-general,Cardinal
to

Altieri, who
of 1867. of of when the
an

martyr
the of

his

flock
at

(as Bishop
Albano
in

Albano)
Near

during
the of

terrible the X.

visitation

of

cholera

entrance

Clement

"

the palace from altered though

to

"

piazza is a record the tiny house

of two
to rooms,
room

tice jusold

widow, who palaces, and building.

The in Kome. Piazza

refused churches

give
were

up

her

hovel

streets,
new

pulled down
to

make

for the

del

Gesii is considered
runs

be devil

the

most

draughty
wind
this
were

place
one

The

legend
to

that When

the

and

the
to

day taking a walk seemed devil, who minute, mio caro,

and the the

together.
be very while

they
said

came

devout,

to

the

wind,

the square, 'Just wait a wind

come

devil wind

this church,' So the I go into into the Gesu, and has never went

mised, proout

again

"

and

is

blowing

about

in the

Piazza

del Gesti

to

this

day.
1

The

finger

was

found

in

laying

the

foundations

of the

palace.

CHAPTER
THE CAPITOLINE

III

I lie

Story
from

of the

the

Hill"

Piazza of

del The

Cainpidoglio"
Tabularium"

Palace The
Museo

of

the

Senator"

View

t'apitol
Palace

Tower"

Capitolino"
Palazzo
"

Gallery
Caffa-

of Statues" relli
"

the
"

Conservators" Convent

Gallery
and Church

of of

Pictures"

Tarpeian

Rock

Ara-Coeli

Maniertine

Prisons.

Capitoline THE Palatine

was

was

the

hill of

the

kings
now were

and

the

republic,

as

the

of the of

empire.
tufa, its sides,
of ages, the
to

Entirely
or as

composed
accumulated sides

concealed

by
are

the

rubbish
of

abrupt
citadels
an

and
of

by buildings precipitous,
Corneto

still the It
was

neighbouring
the

and
cut

Cervetri.
away

united but
:
"

Quirinal
other

by

isthmus
was

of isolated

land

by

Trajan,

in

every

direction

by its

perpendicular

cliffs
'

Arduus

in

valles

et

fora

clivus

erat.'

Ovui,

Fast.

i. 264.

Tarquins, the hill from the mythical Saturnius,^ king Saturn, to Italy in the come reign of Janus, and to here. derived His from name was sowing, Up
to

the

time

of

the

bore w^ho have and

the is

name

of
to

Mens have

reported
a

made he
was

settlement upon

looked

as

the

introducer

of civilisation with

inseparably
considered

connected
to

be of

the

golden

of which are order, both thus here His was reign agriculture. wife His of Italy. was Ops, the age

and

social

representative
'

plenty.'^
d'un
age

C'est

la tradition

de
ville i. 8G.

avant

quil y eut une Roma, Uvst. Rom. paix.'" Ampere,

paix represente par le de la force, il y eut

regne
une

paisible de Satume Sattiniia, ville de

la

Virgil represents Evander, exhibiting Saturnia, already

'Haec Hanc duo

the

mythical

king

of

the

Palatine,

as

in ruins, to

Aeneas. niuris,
virorum.
arceni :

praeterea
veterumiiue

disjectis oppida
vides
nionunienta

Reliquias
Janus Janiculum

Saturnus condidit pater, hanc Saturnia nonien.' huic, illi fuerat

Aen.

viii. 355.

When

Romulus
an

had for

fixed

his

settlement slaves

opened
1

asylum
De

fugitive
v,

the Palatine, he upon the deserted then upon

Roman

Varro,

Ling.

Lat.

42,

Smith

Mythology.

70

Walks

in Rome

and here, at a sacred oak, he is said to have offered np Satiirnius, spoilsof the Caecinenses, and their king Acron, who had made in the of reprisal a war him, after the rape of their women upon vowed Martius here also he build to to a Jupiter temple Campus ; But in the meanwhere spoils should always be offered. time Feretrius, the Sabines,under Titus Tatius, besieged and took the liill, having a gate of its fortress (saidto have been on the ascent above the spot where the Arch of Severus now stands) opened to them by Tarpeia,who gazed with longing upon the golden bracelets of the warriors,and, obtaininga promise to receive that which they wore their arms, crushed was by their shields as they entered.^ upon Some authorities, however, maintain that she asked and obtained From the hand of King Tatius. this time the liill was completely became merged in occupied by the Sabines, and its name partially that of Mons which its side has southern always retained. Tarpeia, Niebuhr states that it is a popular superstition that the beautiful and still enchanted and wath jewels, sits, Tarpeia sparkling gold in in the centre of the hill. motionless, a cave
the

of Tatius, the Capitoline again fell under the founded Niima and his Romulus, Porapilius, successor, government here a Temple of Fides Publica,in which the flaraens were alw^ays to sacrifice with a filleton their righthands, in signof fidelity.To Numa also is attributed the worship of the god Terminus, who had After the of
a

death

early ages. Tarquinius Superbus, B.C. 535, the magnificent Temple of which had been vowed Jupiter Capitolinus, by his father, was built in In digging its with taken from the Volscians war. money was foundations, the head of a man found, still bloody, an omen which was Etruscan interpretedby an augur to portend that Rome would become the name the head of Italy. In consequence of this,
Under
of

temple here

in very

the hill

was

once

more

changed, and

has

ever

since been

Mons

or Capitolium. Capitolinus, The site of this temple has always

been

one

of of tw^o

history. At the time

it was

as built,

peaks, with a level space between Gregorovius place the temple on the south-eastern

of the vexed tions quesconsisted hill the now, and Niebuhr them.

height,

but

Canina and other authorities incline to the north-eastern eminence, the present site of Ara-Coeli,because, among other reasons, many not could which it the temple faced the south, and also the Forum, the have done summit ; and also because upon the south-eastern citadel is always represented as having been nearer to the Tiber than the temple : for when Herdonius, and, at a later time, the it scaled the heights of the Capitol, the Gauls, arrivingby river, in the latter the citadel which w^as barred their path, and in which, sacred of Manlius the awakened the noise case. was geese by of Juno. The remains of an important building, discovered in November 1875 on the south-eastern eminence, are in favour of that site
:

but

the

question is stillundecided.
;

El. iv. 4 Pi'opertius,

Varro, De Ling. Lat.

v.

41.

Temple

of Jupiter Capitolinus

71

of The temple of Jupiteroccupied a loftv platform,the summit decorated the rock being levelled to receive it. Its fayade was with three ranges of columns, and its sides by a single colonnade. It was feet in length, and 185 in nearly square, being 200 Roman ^ divided into three cells ; the figure of width. The interior was his right,and was on Jupiteroccupied that in the centre, Minerva of an artist the work Juno on his left. The figureof Jupiter was and was formed of terracotta, of the Volscian city of Fregellae,"'^ painted like the statues which we may still see in the Etruscan clothed with the tunica palmata and at the Vatican, and museum of victorious generals. In his right the toga picta, the costume in his left a spear. hand was a thunderbolt,and
'

Jupiterangusta
Inque
Jovis

vix totus stabat in aede ; dextra fictile fulmeii erat.'

Ovid, Fast.

i. 202.

At a later period the statue was formed of gold,but this figure had ceased to exist in the time of Pliny.^ When Martial wrote, the statues of Jupiter, all gilt. Juno, and Minerva were
'

Scriptus es

aeterno

nunc

primuni, Jupiter, auro, Martial, Ep. xi.

5.

Et soror, et sumnii

ttliatota patris.'

fastened cella of Minerva, a nail was every year, to mark the lapse of time."* In the centre of the temple the statue of Terminus. was

In the wall

adjoiningthe

fane of Jupiter Capitolinus had peculiar claims on the veneration citizens ; for not only the great lord of the earth was shipped worin it, but the conservative principleof property itself found therein its appropriate symbol. While the statue of Jupiter occupied the usual place of the divinityin the farthest recess of the building,an image of the god Terminus also placed in the centre of the nave, which was to the heavens. A was open venerable legend afflrmed that when, in the time of the kings, it was requisite t" clear a space the Capitoline to erect on it a temple to the great father of on the g()ds, and the shrines of the lesser divinities were to l)e removed for the purpose, Terminus alone, the patron of boundaries, refused to quit his place, and to be included in the walls of the new demanded cditice. Thus he juopitiated, understood to declare that henceforth the boniuls of the republic sliould was be removed than fulfilled by the ever-increasing never more ; and the pledge was circuit of her dommion.'"M under the Empire.' erivale, Romans
' '

The sumptuous of the Roman

The

gates of the temple

in
a

were

of
were

mosaic;'
and
was

vault

beneath
The

giltbronze,and its pavement of preserved the Sibyllinebooks,

of Tarquin lasted 400 years, building in the civil wars, B.C. 83^ It was burnt down rebuilt very afterwards with columns of Pentelic soon by Sulla, and adorned marble, which he had brought from the temple of Jupiter Olympius at Athens.^ however, did not live to re-dedicate it,and it was Sulla, This temple lasted tillit finished by Q. Lutatius Catulus, B.C. 62. burnt the the soldiers to of who set fire to was Vitellius, ground by

placed there by Tarquin.

1 3
"

Vitruvius,iv. 7. Pliny, vii. 39.

xxxiii. IS. riiny,

1.

2 *
""

PHny,

xxxv.

12. 5.

Livy, vii. 3. Pliny, xxxvi.

72
it

Walks

in Rome

forth A.d. by throwing torches upon tlie portico, GD, and dragging the of brother murdered him the foot at of the Sabinus, Vespasian, the Mamertine Prisons.^ Domitian, the younger son near Capitol, of Vespasian, was, at that time, in the temple with his uncle,and of which he escaped in the dress of a priest ; in commemoration erected a chapel to Jupiter Conservator, close to the temple, with altar upon which his adventure an was sculptured.The temple was rebuilt by Vespasian,who took so great an interest in the work that he carried away some of the rubbish on his own shoulders ; but his the exact likeness of its predecessor, temple was only higher,as allow it to be altered.^ the aruspices said that the gods would not Titus and Vespasiancelebrated their triumph after In this building the fall of Jerusalem. The ruin of the temple began in a.d. 404, during the short visit of the youthful Emperor Honorius to Kome, when the plates of gold which lined its doors were strippedoff Stilicho.^ It was finally by plundered by the Vandals in A.D. 455, when its statues carried off to adorn the African palace of were and half its roof of the giltbronze tiles was Genseric, stripped covered which it ; but it is not known it ceased to when precisely exist the early fathers of the Christian Church speak of having it. The story that the bronze statue of Jupiter, seen belongingto the transformed famous this temple,was I. into Leo by image of S. Peter, is quite disproved. the queen of Roman Close beside this, temples, stood the Temple said of Fides, to have been founded by Numa, where the senate assembled at the time of the murder of Tiberius Gracchus, were in fell who front of the of B.C. 133, Jupiter,at the foot of Temple of the kings his blood being the first spilt in Rome the statues in Mars twin of and Near the a civil war.^ this,also, were temples Venus crated, Erycina, vowed after the battle of Thrasymene, and conseR. T. the Maximus and Otacilius consuls Fabius B.C. 215, by the top of the Clivus was Near the Temple of Jupiter Crassus. of a vow which he made Tonans, built by Augustus, in consequence his litter when in an expedition against the Cantabri, was struck, the slave who killed by lightning. This and preceded him was considered that of a porch to as temple w^as so near, that it was and, in token of that character, Augustus hung JupiterCapitolinus, bells its some pediment. upon the Temple of On the Arx, or oppositeheight of the Capitol, was and Virtue, built B.C. 103,by Marius, with the spoils taken Honour size of suflicient allow of to The temple was in the Cimbric wars. the senate meeting there, to pass the decree for Cicero's recall.^ Nardini Here places the ancient Temple of Jupiter Feretrius,in which Romulus dedicated the first spolia opima. Here, on the site of the house of Manlius,was built the Temple of Juno Moneta,
" "

1 2 3 * s

Hist. Tacitus,

iii.74.

Tacitus, Hist. iv. 53. Zosimus, lib. v. c. as. Valerius Maximus, ii.?". 3. iii.2, 5 ; Propertius, iv. 11, 45 Vitruvius,

; Cic. Pro

Plaiic. 32.

The
B.C.

Tarpeian Rock

73

On this of L. Furius Camillus.' with a vow commemorated which also,was tlie altar of JupiterPistor, height, loaves into the down threw who the stratagem of the Romans, to the state of them deceive as of the besiegingGauls, to camp

345, in accordance

their

supplies.
-

'

Nomine,
Dicain

celebratior arce Tonantis, (luani pretio, velit ara Jovis." Pist":"ris (luiil Ovid, Fast. vi. 340.

It
statue

was

of

probablyalso on this side of the hill Jupiterstood, which was formed out of

from the Samnites, B.C. 293, and been of such a size that it was Cavi. rival claimants to be considered as the Tarpeia.n Two cliffsare now Rock ; but it is most probablethat the whole of the hill on this and was called the Mons side of the Interraontium was Tarpeius, celebrated under
'

taken is stated by Pliny to have which the top of Monte visible from
armour

that the

the

gigantic

that

name

by the poets.
:

arcis In summo custos Tarpeiae Manlius Stabat pro templo, et Capitoliacelsa tenebat

Komuleo(iue recens Atque hie auratis

Porticibus

horrebat
volitans

regia culnio. argenteus anser

adesse canebat.' Aen. Virgil, viii.652.

Gallos in limine

'

Anrea Tarpeia ponet Capitolianipe, Et junget nostro temploruni culmina

'
. . .

coelo.' 623. Sil. Jtal. iii.

Cemere

juvat inter tecta Tonantis Tarpeia pendentes rupe Gigantes.'

Clmtd. vi. Cons. lion. 44.

the Intennontium, or space between buildings upon the Tabularium, or Record the two OflSce, part of heights,were built by Scipio Nasica,^and an arch which stillremains ; a portico,

Among

the

built here to his own Nero honour, the erection of which, to the gods,was devoted sacred the hill hitherto regardedeven upon act of presumption.* by the subservient senate as an unparalleled In the mediaeval times the revolutionary government of Arnold and Pope Lucius 11., this hill established itself of Brescia on (1144), attempting to regain his temporal power, was slain with a stone in (1341) ; and attacking it. Here Petrarch received his laurel crown laws of the here the tribune Rienzi promulgated the good estate.* and the Capitol but the church At this time nothing existed on Yet the of the of and few ruins. Ara-Coeli convent a people at cry ' and the poet I the coronation of Petrarch, Long life to the Capitol then still more that the scene itself was shows present to their it. But, when the popes minds than the principal actor upon of the Capitolseemed returned from Avignon, the very memory which
' '

1 2 3 *

Livy, vi. 2(i. Livy, V. 48.

Velleius Paterc. ii.3. Ilist. of the See Merivale, vol. vi. Ito)na)i."t,

74

Walks

in Rome

the Goat's UiW"Monte effaced,and the spot was as only known Caprino. Pope Boniface IX. (1389-94) was the first to erect the
on

on

of the Tabularium, a residence for the Capitol, and his assessors. senator Paul III. (1544-50) employed Michelangelo to lay out the Piazza del Campidoglio, and the Capitoline Museum and the Palace of the Conservators were designed b}-him. Pius IV., Gregory XIII., and Sixtus V. added the sculpturesand other monuments adorn which now the steps and balustrade.^ the ruins

Just beyond the end of the Corso the Via Giulio Romano, formerly della Pedacchia, turns to the right, under a quaint archway in the secret passage constructed of escape for the Franciscan as a means Generals of Ara-Coeli to the Palazzo Venezia, as that in the Borgo is for the escape of the popes to S. Angelo. In this street is a house decorated with simple but elegantdoric details, and bearingan inscriptio that it was the door which shows that of Pietro da over Cortona. The street ends in the sunny open space at the foot of the Capitol, with Ara-Coeli on its left, of steps, approached by an immense flight removed hither from the Temple of the Sun on the Quirinal. It does not, however, as has been often stated, mark the site of the famous staircase to the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, which Julius his knees, after his triumph for his Gallic descended Caesar on victories. Till the fourteenth century there was whatever no access the to The staircase Capitol from this side of the Campus Martius. in 1887, and has lost all the interest of antiquity. renewed was 'Za Cordommta,^ was The grand staircase, opened in its present the occasion form on of the entry of Charles V. in 1536.^ At its foot were two lions of Egyptian porphyry, which removed were hither from the Church of S. Stefano in Cacco These by Pius IV. taken to the Capitoline Museum, and replacedby copies. are now this site that It was down which the first staircase existed on Rienzi, the tribune, fled in his last moments, and close to the spot where the left-hand lion stands that he fell, covered with wounds, of the burning palace his wife witnessing his death from a window above. A small the staircases has latelybeen two between space be obtained transformed into a garden, tliroughwhich access may of the substructions of to four vaulted brick chambers, remnants the Temple of JupiterCapitolinus. In this garden living wolves are A modern of of Romulus. statue the nurse kept, to commemorate Rienzi is by Masini. At the head of the stairs are colossal statues of the twin heroes, Castor and Pollux memorating (brought hither in 158?^ from the Ghetto),comafter which of the Lake Regillus, the victory they rode the joyfulnews, before the army watered to announce to Rome,
1 2

409. Dyer's Rome, 407, 4i"S,

When

ground

four hundred houses and three to make a road for his triumphal

or

four churches
"

were

approach. Rabelais,Lett

levelled to the re viii.p. 21.

76

Walks

in Rome

A sight of the old heathen world has seen. is enough to create an emperor of loyalty even evanescent sentiment in a democratic bosom, so august does he so worthy of man's look, so fit to rule, profoundest homage and obedience, so attractive of his love. He stretches forth his hand with an air of inevitably proud magnificence and unlimited authority, as if uttering a decree from which find his no appeal was permissible, but in which the obedient subject would that was in itself a benediction.'" highest interests consulted ; a command Hairthornc.

I often ascend the Capitollne Hill to look at Marcus Aurelius and his horse, and have not been able to refrain from caressing the lions of basalt. You cannot the Palatine stand on the Aventine without or thoughts, but standing on grave the spot lu'ings the image of past ages.'"Niebuhr's Letters. me very little nearer La statue equestre de Marc-Aurele et celle-la n'est pas du a aussi sa legende, mais recueillie elle 6tc il d'annees de dun jeune a la bouche a age, y peu La dorure, en partie detruite, se voit encore en quelqiiesendroits. A croire le jeune Romain, cependant, la dorure, au lieu d'aller s'eflFacant touen " la statue de bronze jours davantage, 6tait en voie de progrus. Voyez, disait-il, elle le sera enticrement, le monde finira."" C'est commence a se dorer,et quand forme absurde, la vieille idee romaine, que les destinees et sous une toujours, I'existence de Rome sont liees aux destinues et a I'existence du monde. C'est ce ainsi que les pelerinssaxons I'avaient entendu qui faisait dire au septieme siecle, et le repetaient: "Quand finiront."' et le monde le Colisee tombera, Rome Ampere, Enip. ii. 228.
moyen Romain.
"

'

'

'

one our

Marcus Aurelius is perhaps the most beautiful character of those consoling and hope-inspiringmarks, which stand

in history. He
for ever to remind

is

weak and easily-discouragedrace how high human goodness and perseverance be carried again. The record of him have once been carried,and may which his fame on chieflyrests is the record of his inward life his "Journal" for those who of right seek eagerly for that substratum a priceless treasure existed. thinking and right doing,which in all ages must surely have somewhere " From abstinence not from learnt and mother I a nd only piety beneficence, my of living, evil deeds but from evil though t" ; and further,simplicityin my way far removed tutor I learnt (hear it, from the habits of the rich. From ye my of labour, and to want with my and to work tutors of princes !)endurance little, and not to be ready own hands, and not to meddle with other people's affairs, Arnold. to listen to slander.' Matthew
. . .
" " "

is the Palace of the Senator, at the back of the piazza building built Boniface altered by Michelangelo IX. but (1389), by originally He intended to the buildingson either side. to correspondwith of stairs. have summit the at the statues a porticosurmounted by
at the foot of the double erected by The fountain staircase was in the found Sixtus v., and is adorned with statues of river-gods and of Minerva curious Colonna a Gardens, porphyry figure found at Cori, but The body of this statue was adapted as Eome. the head and arms modern additions. are
"

The

'Rome personuifiee,cette deesse a laquelle on erigea des temples, voulut d'alx)rd etre une Amazone, ce qui se conQoit,car elle etait guerriereavant tout. C'est sous la forme de Minerve est assise sur la place du Capitole.' que Rome Ampere, Hint. Rom. iii.242.
"

Tower of the Capitol,built 1579, from designs of Martino the Longhi, contains great bell of Viterbo, carried off from that town of the Middle during the wars Ages, which is never rung to the death of announce a or the opening of the except sovereign Carnival. The ascent of the tower is well repaidby the view from the summit, which hills of Rome, embraces not only the seven but the various towns and villages of the neighbouringplainand which successively mountains feU under its dominion. The

Tower
'

of the

Capitol

77

contre les suivre Ics vicissitudes des luttes ext6rieures des Remains n'aurons de los tons et regarder eiitourent les nous (luTi cotos, pressent peuplesqui si et ces montagnes qui I'encadrent romaine la sublime ji I'horlzon campagne sont admirablement. EUcs plus de eneore plus belles et I'a'il prend encore plaisiri\ les contempler (juand on songc ii ce qu'elles ont vu defforts et de dans les premiers temps de la rdpublicpie. II n'est presque pas un point courage de cette campagne qui n'ait etc t^moin de (jnelquerencontre glorieuse; il n'est qui n'ait ete pris et reprisvingt fois. pres(iue pas un rocher de ces montagnes ' et semblaient la ville du Tibre Toutes nations dominaient ces sabelliques(lui et I'ecraser, lu demi-cercle des hauteurs I'envelopper en sur disposees pour placdes et a la portoe du regard. toutes ces nations sont devant nous ' les montagnes des Volsques ; plus i\ Test sont les Voici du cato de la mer d'autres ennemis, les les les Sabins et an nord, Herni(iues Ae(iues ; ; u I'ouest, est le rempart. Etrusques, dont le niont Oiminus ' la mer. Ici sont les Latins,qui,n'ayant Au sud, la iilaine se prolonge jusqu'ii et leur de refuge, commenceront servir de citadelle de par montagnes pour pas ctre des allies. ' le panorama Nous pouvons done embrasser historique des premiers combats affranchis.'" les Romains qu'eurent ii soutenir et que soutinrent si vaillamment Ampere, Hist. Horn. ii.373. Pour
'

Possis nihil urbe Roma Visere majus.' Hor.

Car. Sec. iii.

the Palace of the Senator (enteredby a door in the of the Tabularium, remains the right) the gigantic street on are of of blocks peperino supporting a consisting huge rectangular still preserved doric colonnade, which is shown by an inscription the Tabulae, where to have been that of the Public Record Office, engraved plates bearing important decrees of the Senate, were having been placed there by Q. Lutatius Catulus in B.C. preserved, known as The lower part of the wall is built from the peperino 79. of Alban Lapis Gabinus, and is as fresh as ever ; the upper portion, stone, is less well preserved. A gallery(open daily10-3, 50 c.) in of has been fitted up as a museum the interior of the Tabularium Beneath architectural antiquities collected from the neighbouringtemples. inhabited Rome the boundary between This building is,as it were, and that Rome which is a city of ruins.
the other side. There before my I came to the Capitol,and looked down on rose a city of monuments grave, and out of the grave eyes opened an immense in ruins,columns, triumphal arches, temples, and palaces,broken, ruinous, but mournful the giant solemn still beautifxil and grand," with a beauty ! It was
'

apparition of ancient Uome-'"Frederika

Bremer.

led and the Tabularium sharp They when as built,mainly owing to the disuse of this they were perfect approach caused by Domitian, who built the existing temple of in such a way that the Vespasian close against the Tabularium

Sixty-four steps of
from

an

down

ancient to the

staircase

still

exist, which
as

Forum.

are

cella of the Temple to the staircase.^

1

completelyblocked
'

up the

only lower

entrance

See

an

admirably corrective article

on

Walks

in Rome,' by the

writer of

18t"7. work recent the Jiemaiiis of Ancient Home, in the Builder, August '27, on he tiikes this It is not 'a thankless task to correct Mr. Hare's misstatements;' the most seveie opportunity of saying how exceedingly grateful he is for even notice of them.

78

Walks
"

in Rome

east side of the piazza on The the left as one stands at the of head the steps is occupied by the Museo Capitolino,chiefly Innocent built under X. (open daily from 10 to 3, for a fee of 50 c, and on founded in 1471 was Sundays gratis).The museum collection the famous by Sixtus IV. (Riario della Rovere), when
"

of bronzes previously to it. kept at the Lateran was removed Above the fountain in the court, opposite the entrance, reclines called Marforio, removed the colossal statue of a river-god, hither di Marforio (Forum Martis ?), from the end of the Via the arch near of Severus. This figure, fancy, was the friend accordingto Roman of the and gossip Palazzo Braschi),and livelydialogues, Pasquino (at merciless to the follies of the government and the times, used to appear with early morning, placarded on their respective Clement XI. as Thus, when pedestals, passing between the two. Rome of numerous mulcted to send to his native Urbino, sums is Pasquino doing ? Marforio The next asked, What morning Pasquino answered, I am taking care of Rome, that it does not go In the desire of putting an to Urbino.' end to such inconvenient away remarks, the government ordered the removal of one of the since Marforio statues to the Capitol, and has been shut up, Pasquino has lost his spirits. the corridor on the ground floor, the left, From on open several devoted to ancient rooms inscriptionsand sarcophagi with basreliefs. An interesting sarcophagusin the vestibule is that (found fuori le Mura) of Licentius, at S. Lorenzo the friend and pupil of S. Augustine, who was vainly urged by his master and by Paulinus Roman of Nola to turn his back upon the world, and became a At the foot of the staircase is senator, but died a Christian in 406. in armour, of the Hadrian statue colossal found the on a Emperor Coelian. Oppositethe foot of the staircase,a door leads into three rooms filled with sculpture. In the first is a fragment of a female statue, found on the Via Appia, with admirable cophagus drapery. The grand sarin the second room the Gauls represents a battle between and Romans, the Gauls distinguishedby their torques. Many of the inscriptions let into the walls relate to members of the imperial is the glorioussarcophagus, said to be family. In the third room Alexander and (his mother) Julia that of thcf murdered Severus del Grano, outside the Porta S. Mamaea, and found in the Monte The reliefs on the sides, which are of the noblest period Giovanni. of Roman the which of Achilles. The vase art, represent history contained the ashes belonging to this sarcophagus is the famous * Portland vase of the British Museum. The Staircase is lined with the fragments of the Pianta Capitodate (found,for the most lina, a series of marble slabs of imperial in the sixteenth and Damian), part, century under SS. Cosmo inscribed with ground-plans of Rome, and exceedingly important from the light they throw the ancient topography of the upon
'
'

'

'

city.
The upper Corridor is lined with
statues

and

busts.

Here

and

Museo
eLsewhere
or we

Capitolino
remarkable especially for

79

will only notice those historic interest.^

beauty

60 Satyr playing on a flute" found on the Aventine. 5. probably a copy from the bronze Cui)iil bendinsrhis bow" found at Tivoli. intoxicated. Old woman 8. R.
L.
R.

of

Lysippus,

'Tout

le monde

remarquc
une

dans

le mus^e

du

Capitole una

vieille femme

sen-ant des deux le tournes vers vin (piellevient

une

mains

conime ciel,

les yeux mourants la bouche entr'ouverte, bouteille, elle savourait le si,dans la jubilation de I'ivresse,
une

reproduction de
L.

curiositosde

ne Comment de boire. pas voir dans cette caricature en Ivre de Myron, qui passait pour la Vieille Femme HmyvneV-"Jrn2nre, Hist. Horn. iii.272.

marbre des

The infant Hercules strangling a serpent. Grand sarcophagus" The Rape of Proserpine. Faun R. 12. playing on a flute. of Livia.) from the Columbarium (In the wall on the left,inscriptions L. Sarcophagus" the birth and childhood of Bacchus, the Domine L. 42. Statue, draped" supposed to be Julia Maesa, found near
L.

quo
R.

R. 22.

Vadis. Head
25.

of Ariadne.

Jupiter, on a cippus with a curious relief of Claudia with the image of the Magna Mater up the Tiber. Bust of Caligula. L. 33. Marcus *R. 28. Aurelius, as a boy" a very beautiful bust.
Nuovo Statue of Minerva of the Vatican. R. 30. Trajan. Carcalla. K. 31. 76. In the window,
R. 29.
on

drawing the boat

from

Velletri.

The

same

as

that

in the Braccio

magnificent

Metella, standing
and

puteal adorned

the tomb of Cecilia near vase, found with reliefs of the twelve principal gods

goddesses.
From the

chambers. The first the famous mosaic found the Room of the Doves, is named and villa near called in the rnins of Hadrian's Tivoli, generally speaking of the perfection to Pliny, when Pliny'sDoves, because mosaic art had attained,describes a wonderful which the mosaic dove is seen of Sosus of Pergamos, in which one drinking and while others the selves are on water, pluming themcasting her shadow open from
two As a pendant to this is another In the farther window Mask. is a in r elief the soft marble called (83) the Iliac Tablet, an interesting palombino, relatingto the story of the destruction of Troy and the of Aeneas, and found at Bovillae. flight
on

right of this corridor

the

Mo.saic of

edge of the vase. Tragic and Comic

dans un abrege flguiequ'on contre Troie est contenu visible de petit bas-relief destine a otfrir un resume Ilia"|ue, cette guerre aux jeunes Romains, et a servir dans les ecoles soit pour Ylliade, d'un Index pnrlnnt. comme soit jKiur les poomes cycli(|ues romain fait h. Rome. Tout ce qui t"mche est un 'Lii Table llia(|ue ouvrage h. Homere et celobroes surtout aux origines troyennes de cette ville,inconnues tient dans ce bas-relief une place ini- \ par Stcsichore avant de I'etre par Virgile, J ;"per^, Uixt. Rom. dans iii.4'M. \ et composition.'" domine sa portante
'

L'ensemble

de la guerre

appelle

la Table

contains the famous Venus of the Capitol The second chamber found immured in a wall Greek a statue, a copy from Praxiteles, the Quirinal. upon
"

/
'

\ R, right; L, left

80

Walks

in Rome

'La viviUi et la complaisance avec dans la est rendue lesquelles la nature V^nus du Capitole faisaient de cette belle statue un sujet de scandale pour I'austerite des premiers Chretiens. C'^tait sans doute afin de la soustraire k leurs mutilations qu'on I'avait enfouie avec soin,ce (lui I'a conservee dans son integrit"^ ; ainsi son Comme I'a trouvee dans le quartier suspect de on danger I'a sauvee. la Suburra, on peut supposer qu'elle ornait I'atrium elegant de quelque riche couriiseine.'" Ampere, lit.318.

The two smaller and Psyche" two

of Leda and the Swan, and Cupid sculptures found the on lovelychildren embracing" were

Aventine.
From The
statue

the end of the gallery enter we In the centre is the beautiful seated Hall of the Emperors. of Agrippina (granddaughter of Augustus, wife of Gerof

manicus, and mother

'

Caligula).

On

s'arrete

avec

simplicityet dont
'

le

respect devant la premiere Agrippine,assise avec una si noble visage exprime si bien la fermete virile.'" Ampere, iv.
nous aux

de
son
'

Ici nous la contemplons telle que Germanicus. Elle semble mise

renoncer aux
"

pouvons

nous

la

flgurerapres

la mort

encore

pensees

fers par le destin, mais sans etait remplie aux superbes dont son ame

pouvoir jours de

bonheur.'

Br ami.

ducis per eos dies induit militibusque, ut quis Femina ingens animi munia et fomenta dilargitaest. Tradit C. Plinius stetisse inops aut saucius, vestem apud principium pontis,laudes et grates reversis legionibushabentem.'" raciY"",
Ann.

i. 69.

kindred when he sacrificed that of others. 'Tiberius did not spare his own the scene the seated statue of Agrippina without Can one see remembering her guard, lifts the staff against that noble head, and where the centui-ion, of her eyes? Under such ill-usageAgrippina carries out her strikes out one she is dead, the senate to renders thanks resolve to die of hunger, and when Caesar for his clemency towards her !'"Viktor Rydberg.

Eound empresses,

the

room

are

busts ranged eighty-three

near

of Roman

emperors,
most

and

their

relations, forming perhaps the

the w^orld.
cause

in portrait -gallery interesting

' It is a high-born company, select.'" Fi^fo/" Rydberg.

but there is

to doubt

if it be

as

good

as

it is

All the Julian family are handsome of the busts are of the utmost many
1. Julius Caesar, nat. B.C. 100 ; ob. B.C. 12" A.D. 14" 2. Augustus, Imp. B.C.

even

viewed

as

works
are
"

of art,

importance. They
44.

'beaming

Murdered. with

dignity and
spoke
or was

personal
silent.'"

charm.' 'His features Suetonius.

3.
were

quiet and

cheerful,whether

he

4. 5.

son Marcellus, his nephew and son-in-law, Tiberius,Imp. A.D. 14-37.

of Octavia, ob. B.C. 23, aged 20. in Romehave suspected

the Roman 'In spite of the curved nose" nose, so seldom Tiberius has so strong a family likeness to his stepfather that Viktor Rydberg. a nearer relationshipbetween them.'
"

seen

many

6. Drusus, his

7. Drusus,
8.

son

Antonia,

of Li via and Claudius Nero, ob. B.C. 10. of Tiberius and Vipsania, ob. A.D. 23. daughter of Mark Antony and Octavia, wife of the elder

brother, son

Drusus,

mother

of Germanicus

and

Claudius.

Hall
y.

of the Emperors

81

(ieiinanicus,son

10.

ARrippiuH, daughter

wife of Gernumicus.
'

ob. A.l). li). aiul Aiitoiiia, of Drusus of Julia and Aprippa, granddaughter of Died of starvation under Tiberius,A.D. 33.

Augustus,

nee Ctdloquium tilii exposcit, ubi nihil pro innocentia, quasi difflderet, sed ultionem in delatores et praemia amicis quasi exprobaret disseruit, beneticiis, xiii.21. obtinuit.'" Tacitus,Ann

11.

Caligula, Imp.
Chaerea

a.d.

37-41,son

the tribune

(a noble

of Germanicus bust in basalt).

and

Agrippina.

Murdered

by

'That imperial maniac, whose portraitin green basalt,with the stain of dire that we able at this are tension on the forehead, is still so beautiful mental than loathe him.'- ./. A. Symonds. distance of time to pity more " The head is turned slightlyaside,the brow thunders, the eyes lighten,the at once is pressed wrathfully and scornfullytogether ; but one can fine mouth or : it is stillonly the theatre tyrant, see that this look is counterfeited practised "His whole exterior," an with features according to rule. says Tacitus, "was imitation of that which Tiberius had put on for the- day, and he spoke almost with the words of the latter." '"Viktor Rydberg.
12. Claiidius, Imp. by Agrippina.
'

A.D.

41-54,younger

son

of Drusus

and

Antonia.

Poisoned

head, against which, from the point of view of beauty,one anything, but that the oval of the face is too compressed. The with broad forehead is overcast with clouds of melancholy. Tlie eyes disclose, that is "their unsteady, sad, and kindly look, a plodding and sufferingspirit,
A well-formed
note
can

hardly

conscious

of its noble

birth, but

unable

to

maintain

its freedom.'"

FiA;tor

Rydberg.
Put to death 13. Messalina, third wife of Claudius. dressing of the hair characteristic and curious.
'

by Claudius, A.D.
commun,

48"

the

traits bouffis, a. I'air assez aux sensuelle, grosse commfere 32. ii. ii Q\a.\\AQ.'" Ampere, Emp. plaire qui pouvait Une
14.

mais

and
son
'

Agrippina the younger, sixth wife of Claudius, daughter of Germanicus of Augustus. Murdered by her Agrippina the elder,great-granddaughter
A.D.

Nero,

GO.

cette beaute plus grande que avec Ce buste la montre elle un etait Agrippine a les yeux leves moyen. qui pour attend.'" ^mp. ii.34. craint,et qu'elle qu'elle

vers

celle de sa le ciel ;

m^re, et
on

dirait

15. 16.
'

Nero, Imp.

A.D.

54-69,

son own

of

Agrippina
hand.

the

younger

by her first

husband, Ahenobarbus.
His

Died

by his

handsome than engaging. more Suetonius says that the features of Nero were hair,like that of all the Domitians, was light-brown,his eyes were bluishgrey.'"Viktor Rydberg. Killed by a kick from the l"eautiful second wife of Nero. 17. Poppaea Sabina(?), so gi-eat her husband, A.D. 62. The extravagance of Poppaea was that,when she she took with her 500 she-asses, that she might not fail to have her travelled, bath of milk every morning. enfantine que pouvait offrir celui de cette Ce visage a la dolicatesse presque femme, dont les molles recherches et les soins curieux de toilette 6taient celebres, bien qu'avec un peu d'emphase, C'etait une verity, et dont Diderot a dit avec '"Emp. ii.38. furie sous le visage des grices."
" "

in the Forum" Murdered full of character. 18. Galba, Imp. A.D. 60. hand. Died by his own 19. Otho, Imp. A.D. 69. at the Scalae Gemoniae" a 20. Vitellius (?), Imp. A.D. 69. Murdered
sensuous

coarse,

face.

21. 22.

Imp. Vespasian, Titus,Imp.

A.D.

A.D.

79-81, son
a

70-79. of

Vespasian and Domitilla.

bust.

Supposed

to have
"

been
'

poisonedby

Domitian"

grand

With way for

VOL.

" mould of features comes on ; the Flavians, the urbane a coarser give the aesthetic for The honest, a common. something a something rustic,

I.

^2
good-humoured,
handed
23. 24.

Walks

in Rome

down

but stingy toll officer, who was a father of this house,plainly has his face to Vespasian and Titus.'" FtA;tor liydberg. of Vespasian and Domitilla. dered Mur-

Julia,daughter of Titus. Domitian, Imp. A.I). 81-96, second

in the Palace of the Caesars.

son

Domitien est sans comparaison le plus beau des trois Flaviens ; mais beaute formidable, air farouche et faux.' un avec Emp. ii.12.
"

'

c'estune

25. Domitia 26. Nerva

murder of Domitian. 27. Trajan, Imp. a.d. 98-118. Adopted son of Nerva. 28. Plotina, wife of Trajan" one of the most strikingportraitures in this collection. 29. Marciana, sister of Trajan. 30. Matidia,daughter of Marciana, niece of Trajan. 31. 32. Hadrian, Imp. A.D. 118-138,adopted son of Trajan. 33. Julia Sabina, wife of Hadrian, daughter of Matidia" very regal. 34. Elius Verus, first adopted son of Hadrian. 35. Antoninus Pius,Imp. A.D. 138-161,second adopted son of Hadrian.
' Seldom does the quiet and features of a Roman emperor, Viktor Rydberg. '

wife of Domitian. Longina (?), (?),Imp. A.D. 96. Elected by the people, after the

gentle strength of moral will shine forth the glorious face of Antoninus as from

from

the Pius.'
"

and Princely Presence come. I saw a calm Who, statelyas the imperial purple, bore His robe, a saint in mien, mild, innocent, Perfect in manhood, with clear eye serene, from the sages took And loftyport ; who lessons earth could give, Imt trod no less What The toilsome path of Duty to the end ; And as he passed I knew the kingly ghost knew not Christ indeed. Of Antonius, who Yet And And
not

the less

was

His.

I marked

the calm

thoughtful face of him who ruled himself. through himself the world.'" Lc/ris Morris.

Pius and sister of Elius Verus. the elder,wife of Antoninus Aurelius, Imp. A.D. 161-180,son of Servianus by Paulina,sister of Pius, as a boy. Hadrian, adopted l)yAntoninus 38. Marcus Aurelius, in later life. 36. Faustina

37. Marcus

wife of Marcus Pius and 39. Annia Aurelius, daughter of Antoninus Faustina, Faustina the elder. Pius. 40. Galerius Antoninus, son of Antoninus Aurelius. 41. Lucius Verus, son-in-law of Marcus Aiu'elius and Faustina 42. Lucilla, wife of Lucius Verus, daughter of Marcus for a plot against her husband. Put to death at Caiiri the younger. and of Marcus Aurelius Faustina. 43. Commodus, Imp. A.D. 180-193, son and sensuous. in the Palace Murdered of the Caesars" handsome Put to death by her husband at Capri. 44. Crispina,wife of Commodus. of Commodus, successor 45. Pertinax, Imp. A.D. reigned three months. 193, Murdered in the Palace of the Caesars. of Pertinax. Murdered in the 46. Didius Julianus, Imp. A.D, 193, successor Palace of the Caesars. wife of Didius Julianus. Scantilla (?), 47. Manila of Didius Julianus,A.D. murder "^^^ candidates (after i 48 Ppsrpnniim Xicrpr for the Empire, which they failed to obtain, 193) Albmus 49. Clodms to death. both and were of Didius Julianus. 50, 51. Beptimius Severus, Imp. A.D. 193-211, successor with a movable 52. Julia Pia, wife of Septimius Sevei-us" wig. and Julia Pia. of Sei)timius Severus 53. Caracalla, Imp. A.D. 211-217, son Murdered. order he was murdered in the arms 54. Geta, brother of Caracalla,by whose of Julia Pia. and successor of Caracalla. Murdered. 55. Macrinus, Imp. A.D. 217, murderer

^o rwf,?c \ Ail,v,lf"f

pAt

84
'

Walks

in Rome

est le premier des bons, et Trajan le premier des grands empereurs Nerva eut deux romaius Trois sur soix; apres lui il y en autres,les deux Antonins. le bilan des gloires morales de I'empire.' Ampire, Hist. ante-dix,tel est a Rome Rom. liii.
"

are Among tlie reliefs round the upper walls of this room two, of Endymion sleepingand of Perseus delivering Andromeda, which tiful. beaubelong to the set in the Palazzo Spada, and are exceedingly

The Hall of Illustrious Men contains a seated statue of M. Claudius of Syracuse, B.C. 212. Marcellus the conqueror Round the room (?), busts of ancient philosophers, are ranged ninety-three statesmen, and warriors. Among the more important are :
"

bas-reliefs in this room the interesting is one of a Roman interior with a lady trying to persuade her cat to dance to a lyre at two ducks ; the the cat, meanwhile, snapping, on its hind-legs, is given,even to the slippersunder A detail of the room the bed. and a fawn is inscribed with the name relief of three dancing girls

Among

"

of the Greek The

1.

artist

"

Callimachus. the centre

"

Saloon

contains, down

from Porto d' Anzio, on an altar with figures of Jupiter (in nero-antico), Diana. and Apollo, Mercury, by Aristeas and Papias (theirnames are on 2. 4. Centaurs (in bigio-morato), the from bases), the Hadrian's
Villa.

youthful and the elder Centaur, we infer from copies, originally winged cupid. While, however, the youthful Centaur is enduring his teasing rider with laughing humoiu-, the elder one, with fettered arms, is sighing is preparing for him. Tliis ingenious the pain which the tyrannical God of Love over and the choice of black marble, older Greek idea indicates an original, in its treatment, seem skill evidenced to infer that the as well as the technical
'Both carried
a

artists worked
3. The young It stands
'

after

bronze

"Liibke. i"roduci\on.'

tine.

on

Hercules" in altar of an

basalt, found Jupiter.

in

the Yigna

Massimi

on

the Aven-

On

assez

des

statue d'Hercule en ti'es-jeune, voit an Capitole nne ba"alte, qui frappe expvime toutefois, d^sagr6ablenient,d'abord, par le contraste,habilement du heros. L'imitaformes molles de I'enfance et de la vigueur caracteristique
se

tion de la Grdce

montre

meme

dans

la matiere

que

I'artiste a choisie ; c'est

un

Hall

of the

Faun

85

basalte verdatre,de couleur sombre. Tisagoras et Alcon avaient fait un Hercule dit Pline, la comnie I'eiiergie for,i)oiir exprimer perforce,et, pour sigiiifler iii.40C. s^v^rante du dieii.'" Ampere, Hist Rom.
en

5.

on Aesculapius(in nero-antico),

an

a sacrifice. altar,representing

Among
are
:
"

the statues

and

busts round

the

room

the

more

important

Faun" of the same one type as that in rosso-antico. 9. Trajan bust. a colossal 10. Augustus" a naked figure. 12. An athlete" the head most beautiful. from Ceprano. with the attribute of Mars" 13. Hadriana naked figure, of rigidarchaic sculpture. 17. Minerva" the lower part of the '21. Beautiful male stsitue of the time of Hadrian" 6. A
"

figure

draped.
22. Hecuba.

du Capitole. d'Hecube dans la Pleureuse Hecube furieuse et nne Hecube en scene, car elle porte le costume, elle a le geste et la vivacite du theatre,je dirais volontiers le ciel, bouche lance des de la pantomime. sa Son regard est tourne vers faire entendre ces hurlements, ces aboieimprecations ; on voit qu'elle pourra de la doideur ments effrenee (lue I'antiquitevoulut exprimer en supposant que h chienne la malheureuse Heculje avait it6 metamorphosee en chienue, une on a arrache ses i^etita.'" la(iuelle Ampere, Hint. Rom. iii.468.
le personnage 'Nous avons Cette pretendue pleureuse est
meme
une
.
. .

25. Colossal

bust of Antoninus

Pius.

Faun of derives its name from the famous found in of grapes to his mouth, rosso-antico, holding a bunch to Hadrian's Vilhi. It stands altar dedicated an on Serapis. the wall is a magnificent sarcophagus (No. 18), whose right Against reliefs (much studied b}-Flaxman) represent the battle of Theseus The and the Amazons. opposite sarcophagus (No, 3),found under

The

Hall of the Faun

the Church of S. Eiistachio, has We should also notice

"

relief of Diana

and

Endymion.

8. A 16. A 21. A

boy with boy with

beautiful

a
a

mask. the Lateran).

goose (found near bust of Ariadne.

Let

into the

wall which

is

black

tablet

"

the
in

Lex

Consultum, conferring imperial powers

very table upon the people. The Hall collection"
1. The 10. The 12. The
'

upon

Regia, or Senatns Vespasian, being the

of the

Rienzi

declaimed

favour

rightsof
of the

of the

Dying Gladiator

contains

tlie three gems

Gladiator. Faun of Praxiteles- the best copy extant. Antinous of the Capitol"from the villa of Hadrian.

The identityof the Capitoline Antinous than doubtful. be reckoned more may head is almost to be placed upon it came a body certainly not his. How resemblance Careful to the type of Antinous, I do not know. presenting so much raise with an indubitable portrait will even comparison of the torso and the arms the question whether this fine statue is not a Hermes of an earlier age. or a hero Its attitude suggests Narcissus either of these forms Adonis ; and under or Antinous may properly have been idealised.' "J. .4. Symonds. The

86
Besides
2.

Walks
these
we

in Rome
"

should

notice

Majestic female statue" sometimes 3. Head of Alexander the Great. 4. Amazon, from the Villa d'Este. 5. Head of Bacchus" magnificent.

called Juno.

7. Apollo with the lyre. 9. Statuette of a little girldefending a bird from a snake. 16. Bust of M. .Junius Brutus, the assassin of Julius Caesar.

In

the

centre

of the
as

room

is the

grand

statue

of the wounded

known Gaul, generally

'

the

Dying

Gladiator.

He

I see before me the gladiator lie : leans upon his hand" his manly

brow

Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his drooped head sinks gradually low, And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, Like the first of a thunder-shower ; and now swims The arena he is gone, around him" Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wTetch
"

who

won.

He heard it, l)ut he heeded not" his eyes with his heart, and that was Were far away ; He reck'd not of the life he lost, nor prize, But where his rude hut by the Danube lay. There his young were barbarians all at play, There their Dacian mother" was he, their sire. Butchered to make a Roman holiday. All this rushed with his bloodshall he expire. And unavenged ? Arise, ye Goths, and glut your ire ! "Byron, ' Childe Harold.
'

It is

to delightful
:
"

read

in this

room

the

in description

formation Trans-

that room, in the centre of which reclines the noble and most pathetic Around the the dying gladiator,just sinking into his death-swoon. walls stand the Antinous, the Amazt'U, the Lycian Apollo, the Juno, all famous majesty productions of antique sculpture,and still shining in the undiminished
'

It

was

figure of

them is yellow and beauty of their ideal life, that embodies although the marble with time, and perhaps corroded by the damp earth in which they lay buried for centuries. as it was Here, likewise,is seen a symbol (as apt at this moment two thousand or Soul, with its choice of Innocence ago) of the Human years Evil close at hand, in the pretty figureof a child,clasping a dove to her bosom, but assaxilted by a snake. ' From of this saloon we of the windows see a broad flightof stone one may of the Capitol, foundation massive the and steps,descending alongside antique Farther towards the battered triumphal arch of Septimius Severus, right below. women washerForum the eye skirts along the edge of the desolate on. (where Roman of a shapeless confusion hang out their linen to the sun), passing over the modern brick and stone, and over edifices, piled rudely up with ancient domes of Christian churches, built on the old pavements of heathen temples, and At a distance beyond" supported by the very pillarsthat once upheld them. ing yet but a little way, considering how much history is heaped into the interventhe 1)lue sky brightening of the Coliseum, with rises the great sweep space" tier of arches. Far through its upper off, the view is shut in by the Alban all this decay and amid change, as when mountains, looking just the same, Romulus his half-finished wall. over gazed thitherward ' In this chamber is the Faun of Pi-axiteles. It is the marble image of a young
man,

by

leaning his right arm on the trunk, or stump of a tree: one hangs carelessly such sylvan side,in the other he holds a fragment of a pipe, or some the instrument of music. His only garment, a lion's skin with the claws upon
his

Palace

of the

Conservators

87

shoulder, falls half-wayclown his back, leaving his limbs and the entire front of the llKure nnde. is marvellously Rraceful,but has a The form, thus displayed, and less of heroic muscle, than the fuller and more rounded flesh, outline,more old sculptors were wont to assign to their types of masculine beauty. The character of the face corresponds with the figure; it is most line agreeable in outand feature,but rounded and somewhat voluptuously developed, especially is almost about the throat and chin ; the nose but very slightly curves straight, of geniality and humour. inward, thereby acquiring an indescribable charm The mouth, with its full yet delicate lips, so seems reallyto smile outright,that it calls fortli a responsive smile. The unlike whole statue" anything else that of marble" the idea of an material ever was wrought in the severe conveys amiable and sensual creature, easy, mirthful, apt for jollity, yet not incapable of being toucheil by pathos. It is impossible to gaze long at this stone image without conceiving a kindly sentiment towards it,as if its substance were warm
to the

touch, and

imbued

pleasantestsympathies.'"
'

with actual Hmvthorne.

life. It

comes

very

near

to

some

of

our

Praxitole avait dit

Pour que

le mieux.
annoncer mon

Phryne de choisir entreses ouvrages celui quelle aimerait elle lui fit lequel des ses chefs-d'oeuvre I'artiste preferait, le feu avait pris a son atelier. men Sauvez, s'ecria-t-il, Satyre et
a

savoir

"

Amour

\"'"Avipe re,

Hist. Rom.

iii.309.

The west or right side of the Capitoline Piazza is occupied by the contains the Protomoteca, the Palace of the Conservators, which and various other treasures. Picture Gallery, is full of historical relics, including The little court at the entrance remains of two giganticstatues of Apollo ; a colossal head of and which in the mausoleum Domitian the marble once pedestal, ; of Augustus supported the cinerary urn of Agrippina the elder, daughter of Agrippa, wife of Germanicus, and mother of Caligula 'a handful of ashes of old Roman virtue' with a very perfect who The inscription. cippus was evidentlythe work of Caligula, brought back the ashes of his mother from Pandatoria,where she died in exile. It was hollowed for corn out and used as a measure in di the Middle Ages. In the oppositeloggia ('rugitella grano ') of Rome a are a statue Triumphant and a group of a lion attacking of left is Arno. found in bed the the the In the on horse, portico in of Augustus, leaning against the rostrum of a galley, statue a allusion to the battle of Actium. On the rightis the only authentic statue of Julius Caesar.
"
"

-"

stands a military chief in full armour, in whose hard, lx)ny,elderly gleamed the most distant flash of that genius which with the fires of lightningsplitasunder the hosts of Gaul and Germany, crushed the warlike fame and annihilated of old Roman of Pompey, overthrew the remnants the Ilepublic, virtue. Not a glimpse of that aftability which in the old Caesars,as in the young, of beauty whiclx made him took captive an adversary ; or of that sense artist an historians and oratoi-s ; or of that magnanimity which, with human ness, nobleamong gilded the selfishness of a fiend.' Viktor Riidberg.
us
"

' Before face never

Opposite the foot of the staircase is

of the column

angelo, restoration, by Michel-

corridor, a seated
senator
'

of Rome

of Caius Duilius. Then, at the end of the of Charles of Anjou, who made was a in the thirteenth century.
statue

seated upon a massive, roughly blocked-out a throne-chair figure, ported supthe by lions, dressed in a long tunic ancl royal mantle, with a crown upon iieadand a sceptre firmly jilantedupon the right knee. The expression of the but its lineaments face is stolid, are individual,and the shape of the head is so It is

88

Walks

in Rome

'

of

peculiar that we cannot doubt its being a faithful portrait. For this reason at Rome, high historical value, and as the only mediaeval portrait-statue interest.' Perkins's Italian Sculptors.' be regarded with no common
'
"

it is must

first and second landingsare magnificent reliefs, representing Aurelius Imp., belonging to the events in the life of Marcus arch dedicated to him, which was wantonly destroyed, in order to widen the Corso, by Alexander VII. On the
' Rome Amazone est representeepar une Jusqu'au r^gne de Commode ; dans et le d'Amazone I'escalier du palais des Conservateurs, Rome, en tunique courte date de de Rome globe k la main, reqoit Marc-Aurele ; le globe dans la main C^sar. Ampere, iii 242.
'
"

of the staircase is abas-relief of Curtius leapthe upper flight ing here represented found S. Maria into the gulf, as a marsh, near Liberatrice. On
bas-relief d'un travail ancien, dont le style ressemble a celui des figures les vases dits archaiques, represente Curtius dans son marais ; engage Le le cheval baisse la tete et flaire le marecage, qui est iudique par les roseaux.
Vn
'

peintes sur

de On en a vivement, guerrier,penche en avant, presse sa monture. presence cette curieuse sculpture,le sentiment dun incident heroique probablement reel, et en meme du lieu qui en fut temoin.' temps de 1' aspect primitif Ampkre, Hist,
"

Mom.

i. 321.

The Halls of the Conservators consist of eight rooms (entrance Roman in of 60 c). The lst,i the the fresco from history painted kings,by the Cavaliere d' Arpino, contains statues of Urban YIII., X in bronze, by Algardi. The 2nd Room, by Bernini, and Innocent adorned with subjects from republican history by Lauretti, has statues of modern Roman generals Marc Antonio Colonna, Tommaso of Francesco Aldobrandini, Carlo Barberini, brother Rospigliosi, The 3rd Urban of Parma. Farnese, Duke VIII., and Alessandro
,
"

is painted by Daniele da VoUerra, with subjects Room from the wars with the Cimbri. Amongst its decorations are two fine pictures, and S. Francesca Christ with a monk a dead Romana, by praying, Romanelli. the The 4th Room contains the Fasti Considares, tables found near

Temple of Vesta, where

they are

the walls of a marble chamber Maximus.^ the Pontifex They to public oflScers from Romulus

supposed to have been engraved on the officialresidence of in the Regia,

are

inscribed

Augustus.

Benedetto Bonfifjli, The 5th Room 1420-96. ducks (formerlyshown the sacred geese as female head (found in the gardens of Sallust), a bust of Medusa, by and fine bronze of bust a Bernini, Michelangelo. leads to the A passage filled with trashy tributes to Garibaldi has Throne it a frieze in with faded or 6th, Room, hung tapestry : fresco by Annibale Caracci,representing the triumphs of Scipio
1

of with the names frescoes are The by bronze contains two of the Capitol)and a

The

rooms,

and
a

entered chapel (opposite the staircase)is sometimes leads into the seventh, whence, on the right,you
paper

before enter

the other the second

hall.
2

See

by F. M. Nichols

in

Archaeologia, vol.

1. pt

1.

Halls
Africanus. with the Madonna
'The
forms
a

of the
is

Conservators

89

The

7th Room

painted by

history of the Punic Wars. containing a lovely fresco by Andrea

and
Madonna

Daniele da Volterra (0. is a chapel, The 8th Koom of the di Assist {L' Ingegno),

Child

with

Angels.

grand

attitude ; she the clouds are This

fresco

is seated enthroned, fronting the spectator ; her large mantle her cast of drapery ; the child on lap sleeps in the loveliest and looks down, (luiet, fohls lier hands serious,and beautiful : in two

adoring angels.'"A'"ir^e/'.

painted, remuch it was lemoved from the staircase in 1703, when was dark green, and that of the angel on the robe of the Virgin being made the originalcolouring was discovered till 1878,when tlie left reil ! So it remained and disclosed by Signor Garelli.

of Roman The four Evangelists are by Caravaggio ; the pictures RomaneUi. Francesca Afexis, Enstacliio, saints (Cecilia Romana) by to the Halls of the Conservators A door on the left of the entrance devoted to the antiquities and galleries leads to a set of rooms chiefly discovered since the change of government in 1870. Passing through Fasti Consuhires, and decorated rooms occupied by modern some Italians of with busts eminent being that in (the mo"t remarkable the 3rd room right of the entrance, of Pius VII., a most noble work The filled with bronzes. two reach (right) rooms of Canova) we and remains of a chariot,discovered in firstcontains a couch, litter, Lamiani found in the Horti a collection of coins 1862 ; the second others from the Campana and Castellani collection. Rooms enter (left) an the first of the Bronze we From octagonal the found the statues which on hall in recently Esquiline chiefly in the gardens of Maecenas are arranged. We may provisionally from the right) notice (begining
in 1876, and
" " "

1. The lower portionof an armed impeiial statue. it. inscribed upon 2. An altar from the Porta Salara,with a poem from a vessel. 18. A beautiful boy pouring water finished. 16. Bust of Conunodus, as Hercules, beautifully the ' Genius of the Vatican.' A very beautiful Apollino,recalling 12. Ih-ania (in the inner circle). Vicovare. 21. A magnificent Sarcophagus with a boar hunt, from 28. Poliinnia, with extiuisitely simple drai)ery. The head of this statue

was

found

in

1872, the body not till1874.

.Tusta. of Claudia restored. much Seated flirm-eof a girl, St^itnetteof Minerva.

:?:{ Statue

Maecenas" a bust. female figure,from VMa Piincipessa Margherita. ' Apollo with the lyre,like the Genius of the Vatican.' 38, 42. Runners. 46.

Seated

43. Beautiful male fragment. 46. Marsyas" the tree, hands and (Inner circle.) Old fisherman. with a ki"l. 10. Old woman
8. A

feet added.

iron

(Terrae Matris) in the shrine in which it was found,the still in their place. scription (Opposite the entrance.) A beautiful vase of Greek worknumship, with an inst^ituette of Ceres

hinges for tlie doors

(Behind this
Hence

delightfuldog

in verde

antico.)
enter
a room

we crossingthe end of the gallery,

filled with of

in objects

terra-cotta

found

on

the

Esquiline.Especiallyworthy

90
notice
are

Walks
three

in Rome

cinerary urns,
are a

terra-cotta, then

as found, enclosing each other,first lead, then alabaster. Among the smaller objects

preservedhere
and an We Bronze inkstand
now

writingtablet inscribed with the owner's

its bronze pens.

name,

with

the Camera dei Bronzi, which contains the famous of the most relics in the one Wolf of the Capitol, interesting city. The figureof the wolf is believed to be that dedicated by the of Romulus and Remus are Ogulnii,aediles,in B.C. 297 ; the figures modern. It has been doubted w^hether this is the wolf described by
enter

ancient work of brass' standing in the Temple of under the Palatine, Romulus described or the wolf by Cicero, who of little of founder the of the a speaks figure citysucking the gilt of in the teats Ciceronian wolf was struck by lightning a w^olf. The time of the great orator, and a fracture in the existing buted attrifigure, to lightning, is adduced in proof of its identity with it.

Dionysiusas

'an

'

Geminos

huic ubera

circuni

Ludere

pendentes pueros, et lambere matrem Inipavidos : illam tereti cervice leflexam Mulcere alternos,et corpora fingerelingua.
Aen. Virgil,
'

viii.632.

And thou, the thunder-stricken of Rome ! nurse She-wolf ! whose brazen-imaged diigsimpart The milk of conquest yet within the dome, of antique art. AVhere, as a monument Thou of the mighty art, standest :" mother Which the great founder sucked from thy wild teat, .Tove's ethereal Scorch'd liythe Roman dart. And thy limbs black with lightning" dost thou yet Guard cubs, nor thy fond charge forget? thy immortal Byron, ' Childe Harold.'
'

wolf, with the Camillus,and the colossal head of Domitian, from the at the Lateran preserved in the Papal Museum in 1473. to removed the Capitol beginning of the ninth century, and
The
was

Standingnear
a

the
a

wolf

boy extracting
us.
'

and beautiful is the well-known his foot, called the thorn from

of figure Shepherd

Marti

bronze La ressemblance du type si fin de I'Apollon au lezard et du charmant du Capitolele tireur d'ipineest trop frappante pour (lu'on puisse se refuser a voir C'est tout simplement dans celui-ci une inspirationde Praxitele ou de son ecole. enfant arrachant de Sfm pied une un epine qui I'a blesse, sujet naif et champetre analogue au Satyre se faisant rendre ce service par un autre Satyre. On a voulu et qui n'en est pas athlete blesse par une epine pendant sa course y voir un la figureest trop jeune et n'a rien d'athletique. Le moins aiTive au but ; mais aussi son explicationet invente sa legende. On racontait moyen age avait donne sans de I'ennemi, etait revenu la decouverte a qu'un jeune berger, envoye s'arreter et ne s'etait permis qu'alors d'arracher une epine qui lui blessait le de cette composition qu'ilinterpretait pied. Le moyen age avait senti le charme de la cathedrale de Zurich qui a sa maniere, car elle est sculptee sur un arceau date du siecle de Chai'lemagne.'" J wj^jerc,iii.315.

In the back

of the

room

is the statue

of Hercules, in

bronze, gilt

found
'

in the

Forum-Boarium.

On

probablement

a deux a Rome trois Hercules, dont cite de Myron ; I'un de ces demiers I'Hercule eu bronze dore du Capitole. Cette servi de modele a

92
58. Albani.

Walks
The

in Rome

57. Tintoret. 54. Copy from

53. 47. 29.
'

Nativityof the Virgin. Mary Magdalene. Subleyras by his wife. Mary Anointing the Feet of Christ. Garofalo. Holy Family. Guercino. The Persian Sibyl. Cola dell' Amatrice. Death and Assumption of the Virgin.
the

in a mystical and dramatic of the Virgin is treated at once in a dark blue mantle, spangled with golden stars, she lies extended on a couch as bishop, reads the ; S. Peter, in a splendid scarlet cope service ; S. John, holding the palm, weeps bitterly. In front, and kneeling before the couch or bier, appear saints as witnesses the three great Dominican of the religiousmystery : in the centre the left S. Catherine of S. Dominic ; on Siena ; and on the right S. Thomas above is the Aquinas. In a compartment Assumption.'" t/am^son's ^Legends of the Madonna,' p. 315.

Here

death

style. Enveloped

17. G^iido Reni. Disembodied 13. F. Francia, 1513. Madonna

spirit(unfinished). and Saints" an early work

of the master.

High
at

up

are

hung

some

exquisitelybeautiful
from
been

fragments

of the X,

frescoes of Raffaelle, removed

Maglione. They
2ncl Room.
139.

have

engraved by

the walls of the villa of Leo Gruner.

Velasquez?

Portrait. the master.

If authentic, this picture is of the first period of

3rd Room.
155. 143. 141.

Romanelli. Innocence. Titian. Baptism of Christ. An early work restoration. Giovanni Bellini. Portrait of himself.

of

the

master, ruined

by

ith Room
254. 250.

"

The Defeat of Darius. Pietro da Cortona. The Tintoret. Flagellation. The 249. Tintoret. Crowning with Thorns. 248. Tintoret. Baptism of CUirist. S. Sebastian" *245. Guido Reni. splendid in form and colour 241. Guercino. and Cleopatra Augustus. 24U. Caravaggio. S Sebastian. *221. Guercino. An enormous S. Petronilla. picture,brought hither from S. The composition Peter's,where it has been replaced by a mosaic copy. is divided into two parts. The lower represents the burial of S. Petronilla,the upper the ascension of her spirit.
' The Apostle Peter had a daughter, born in lawful wedlock, who accompanied his journey from Petronilla him the East. on was wonderfully fair ; and and noble Valerius was a P^oman, who heathen, became Flaccus, a young of her enamoured beauty, and sought her for his wife ; and he being very powerful, she feared to refuse him ; she therefore desired him to return in three But she prayed days, and promised that he should then carry her home. Flaccus in three returned earnestly to be delivered from this peril; and when he found her The dead. with to celebrate the pany commairiage, great pomp, days, of nobles who attended him carried her to the grave, in which they laid with and Flaccus lamented greatly.'"J/ /s. Jameson, from her, crowned roses;

the

'

Perfetto Legendario.'
Veronese. The

197. Paolo

Rape of Europa.

The
At

Tarpeian Rock

93

the head
to

entrance

the

ambassador. and the view

the rightof the terrace, is the the residence of the Prussian Palazzo CafiFarelli, It cont;nns a magnificent hall,used as a ball-room, is most beautiful. from the upper windows
of the

Capitolsteps,to

'After (liinier, Huiisen calleii for us, and took us first to his house on the of which command the different views of ancient Capitol,the ditterent windows and niotiern Koine. Never shall I forget the view of the former : we looked down the Palatine and the Aventine, with on the Forum, and just opposite were the
r\uns

of the Palace

of the Caesars

on

the one,

and

houses

intermixed

with

of the Coliseum The mass rose gardens on the other. beyond the Forum, and to the sea. the wide plain of the Campagna On the left rose the beyond all, Alban Frascati and hills,In-ightin the setting sun, which played full upon Alban"i,and the trees which edge the lake, and farther away in the distance it

lit up

the old town

of Labicum.'"

^nioWs

Letters.

the farther end of the courtyardof the Caffarelli Palace look down upon part of the bare cliffof the Rupe Tarpeia. Here existed is represented there till 18G8 a small court, which as ' ' Faun in Hawthorne's Marble the scene formation.' Transof the murder or The door, the niche in the wall, and all other details realities. The character of the place mentioned in the novel, were is now the of the boundary-wall and formation removal changed by of a new from here is that usually The part of the rock seen road. visited from below by the Via Tor de' Specchi. of the south-eastern To reach the principal portion heightof the Capitol,we must ascend the staircase beyond the Palace of the Conservators the right. Here we shall find ourselves upon the on highestpart of The Tarpeian rock,the citadel of the earth, Of great and gloriousRome, queen So far renown 'd,and with the spoilsenriched From
one can
' '

Of nations.'

Paradise Regained. The steep Tarpeian,fittest goal of treason's race, Ihe promontory whence the traitor's leap Childe Harold. Cured all ambition.'
'

The lane,with its grass-grown spaces and quiet houses,has little to remind of the hill as seen of the appearance one by Virgiland in time who the their from of earlier an speak Propertius, change

aspect.
'

Hinc
A
urea

ad Tarpeiam
nunc, olim

sedem et Capitoliaducit, silvestribus horrida dumis ;

Jam turn religio pavidos terrel"at agrestes Dira loci ; jam tum silvam saxumque tremebant' Aen. viii. 347. Virgil, ' Hoc quodciunque vides,hospes,qua maxima Roma est. Ante Phrygem Aeneam collis et herba fuit.' Propertius, Eleg.iv. 1.

this side that the different attacks were made upon the first the Sabine Herdonius the head of a was at Capitol. by band of slaves,who scaled the cliffs and surprised the garrison in from the heights of the citadel proclaimed freedom B.C. 460, and to all slaves who should join him, with abolition of debts, and defence of the plebsfrom their oppressors ; but his offers were disregarded,
was on

It

The

94
and with
on

Walks

in Rome

the fourth day the Capitolwas re-taken,and he was slain The second attack was nearly all his followers. by the Gauls,

the who, accordingto the well-known story, climbed the rock near the summit Porta Carmentalis,and had nearly reached unobserved for the dogs neglected to bark when the cries of the sacred Manlius, who rushed to the geese of Juno aroused an officer named and hurled the over defence, precipicethe first assailant, who and thus the Capitolwas saved. dragged down others in his fall,
" "

In remembrance

triumph, and
the

incident,a goose was annually carried in between dog annually crucified upon the Capitol,

of this

and the same that of Youth. ^ This was temple of Summanus the friend of the who afterwards condemned was Manlius, people, the pretext that he wished himself to make on by the patricians the and thrown from Tarpeian rock, on the same spot, in king, sightof the Forum, where Spurius Cassius,an ex-consul, had been To visit the part of the rock from down before. thrown which have taken place,it is necessary to enter these executions must a the German little garden near Hospital.
a une Quarnl on veut visiter la roche Tarpeienne, on sonne porte de peu d'apfemme parence, sur laquelle sont ecrits ces mots : Rocca Tarpeia. Line pauvre dans un carre de choux. C'est de la qu'on precipitaManlius. arrive et vous mene Je serais desole que le carre de choux manquat.'" Ampere, ^Portraits de Rome.'
'

is now side of the Intermontium known Monte as generally derives the which from fact that name a Ampere Vejovis, Caprino, ideal of Jupiter, the Etruscan was always representedwith a goat.-^ the wooden this side of the hill, On bridge from the Palatine, built by Caligula (who affected to require it to facilitate communication with his friend Jupiter), joinedthe Capitoline. the north-eastern We have still to examine the probable height, site of the most of pagan temples, now interesting occupiedby one Christian churches. of the most of The of the name interesting is generallyattributed altar famous Church to an of Ara-Coeli erected by Augustus to commemorate the Delphic oracle respecting the coming of our Saviour, which is still recognised in the wellknown hymn of the Church :

This

'Teste David

cum

'3 Sibylla.

called S. Maria in Aurocoelio.' It originally Order, but was belonged to the Benedictine transferred to the Franciscans Innocent IV, in 1252, from which by time its convent occupied an importantpositionas the residence of and is the centre the General of the Minor Franciscans (Greyfriars), In that Order. life in the Middle of religious Ages, Ara-Coeli was
was

The altar bore the humble seek a more mediaeval dates from

'Ara Primogeniti Dei.' Those who inscription originfor the church say that the name merely

times, when

it

'

1 2 3

Plin. Nat. Hist. xxix. 14. 1 ; Pint Fort. Rom. 12. i. 382. Hist. Rom. The Dies Irae, by Tommaso di Celano,of the fourteenth

century.

Ara-Coeli
the church
of the Roman

95
it has

Senate, and

often served

as

for the city of Home. rarliiiment House leads to which The staircase on the left of the Senator's palace, tions. associafull of historical itself in is of side the entrance Ara-Coeli, killed in the the consul was It was at its head that Valerius of the Capitol. It was conflict with llerdonius for the possession of the the envoy that this site Annius, the ancient down steps on his audacious after nearly killed, Latins, fell (B.C. 340), and was that the Latins and Romans of in the Jupiter, Temple proposition consuls. senate and have and become should a common one nation, with down knocked in B.C. 133, Tiberius Gracchus was Here also,^ the the

leg of

chair,and killed in front

right of the fragment of the

of the Temple of Jupiter. On Mamertine the above prisons, a fine staircase, wall of the Capitol, five courses high, primitive

may be seen. of Ara-Coeli, who It is at the top of these steps that the monks celebrated as were dentists,used to perform their hideous, but which useful and gratuitous operations, might be witnessed here
every

morninir !

of Ara-Coeli (of 1564)is a beautiful mosaic Over the side entrance of the Cosmati. Child by one of the Virgin and This, with the of ancient brick arches above, framing fragments deep blue sky forms a subject dear to Roman artists, and the worn steps below and of monks to and is often introduced as a background groups is and church of the highly vast, solemn, peasants. The interior picturesque.It was here, as Gibbon himself tells us, that on the loth of October 1764, as he sat musing amidst the ruins of the friars were while the barefooted singingvespers, the idea Capitol, ' of the city first started to his Decline and Fall of writing the
"
"

'

mind.
lift the great curtain and push into the church, a faint perfume of As we incense salutes the nostrils. The golden sunset biu'sts in as the curtain of the forward, illuminates the mosaic floor,catches on the rich (west) door sways the crowd (gathered in Epiphany), and flashes here and there over golden ceiling, All sorts of people are throngbrilliant costume shaven head. ing on some or closely there, some kneeling before the shrine of the Madonna, which gleams witli to the preachits hundreds and arms, some of silver votive hearts,legs, ing, listening haggard and some crowding round the chapel of the Pir^cino. Old women, their on wrinkled, come totteringalong with their scaldini of coals,drop down a knees to pray, and, as you pass, interpolate in their prayers parenthesis of is not architecturallyhandsome, but it is enunently begging. The church picturesque,with its relics of centuries,its mosaic pulpit and floors,its frescoes its gothic of Pinturicchio and Pesaro, its antique columns, its rich golden ceiling, and its mediaeval A dim, dingy look is over to the Savelli, tombs. mausoleum all" but it is the dimness of faded splendour ; and stand there, cannot one knowing the histoiy of the church, its great antiquity,and the varied fortunes of interest and pleasure. it has known, without a peculiar sense ' It was here that llomulus, in the grey dawning of Konie, built the temple of Jupiter Feretrius. Here the spoliaopima were deposited. Here the triumphal Here the victors paused before processions of the emperors and generals ended. from the Mamertine came making tbeir vows, until, prisonsbelow, the message
'

'

Per

gradus qui

sunt

super

Calpurnium fornicem,'

96
to

"Walks

in Rome

that their noblest prisoner and victim" while the clang of their announce triumph and his defeat rose ringing in his ears as the procession ascended the of Rome. On the steps" had expiated with death the crime of being the enemy steps of Ara Coeli,nineteen centuries ago, the first great Caesar climbed on his knees after his first triumph. At their base Rienzi, the last of the Roman tribunes, is to be trusted,it was fell" and if the tradition of the Church the site of on Ara the present high altar that Augustus erected the Primogeniti Dei," to the Delphic prophecy of the coming of our commemorate Saviour. Standing on a spot so thronged with memories, the dullest imagination takes fire. The of the past rise from their graves forms and scenes and pass before us, and the actual and visionary are mingled together in strange poetic confusion.'" S'^on/'s
"
'

Roba

di

Roma,'

i. 73.

The floor of the church is of the ancient mosaic known as Opus is separated The nave Alexandrinum. from the aisles by twenty-two ancient columns, of which two are of cipollino, tw^o of white marble, and eighteen of Egyptian granite. They are of very different forms and sizes,and have probably been collected from various pagan 'A Cubiculo edifices. The inscription Augustorum,' upon the third the that it was the left of column on brought from the nave, shows The fine statues and of the Caesars. of Paul III. (left) Palace the from of removed halls the XIII. were (right) Gregory Capitol in this church are amongst the few in Rome in 1876. The windows either side which show traces of gothic. At the end of the nave on of the choir before it was two ambones, marking the position are extended to its present site in the sixteenth century. full of interesting That on the monuments. The transepts are of the and is of contains the Savelli, family great burial-place right of 1266 the monument Luca the left, on Savelli, (father of Pope Honorius ancient and richly-sculpan tured IV.),and his son Pandolfo which added to a gothic canopy was by Agostino sarcophagus, of Giotto. and Agnoloda Siena from designs Oppositeis the tomb of Honorius, Vana of the mother Aldobrandesca, upon which is the from in the old his monument statue of the pope himself,removed
"
"

S. Peter's by Paul III. On of the rare marble nero-antico. In the choir are two columns Gianbattista of Cardinal the left of the high altar is the tomb half-effaced the and in it the ob. near Savelli, 1498, pavement" gravestone of Sigismondo Conti, whose features are so familiar to into the famous introduced his portrait from us pictureof the di Foligno,which Madonna was paintedby Eaffaelle at his order, it remained the and presentedby him to this church, where over the till Anna became at a nun 1565, when his great-niece high altar allowed at Foligno, and was to carry it of the Contesse convent In fine another east the is with her. gothictomb, transept away of the di Acquasparta (1302), General Matteo that of Cardinal a rule.^ and moderate mentioned Dante for his wise Franciscans, by dedicated to The quaint chapel in the middle of this transept, now
"

S.

Helena, is supposed to occupy

To
a

the site of the

'

Ara

Primogeniti
X^ by the

Dei.'

pointnear

this the

statue interesting

of Leo

Paradiso,

canto

xii.

Ara-Coeli

97

from the Halls of the della Duca, was Sicilian Giacomo removed Conservators in 187i).^ and the Gospel are very curious and The arabones for the Epistle and are beautiful works of Lorenzo and Jacopo Cosmati. interesting, of Upon the piernear the arabone of the Gospel is the monument died Catherine of who in at Kome Queen 1478, bequeathing Bosnia, her states to the Roman condition of their reversion to Church on her son, who had embraced if he should return Mohammedanism, to the Catholic faith. Near this,againstthe transept wall, is the tomb of Felice de Fredis, ob. 1529,upon which it is recorded that he was the finder of the Laocoon. The Chapel of the Annunciation, has a tomb to G. Crivelli by Donatello, opening from the west aisle, his bearing signature, Opus Donatelli Florentini.' The Chapel of Santa Croce is the bnrial-place of the Ponziani family,and was the scene of the celebrated Roman saint ecstasy of the famous Francesca Romana.
'

'The mortal remains of Vanozza of Fi-ancesca) Ponziani (sister-in-law laid were in the Church of Ara-Coeli. in the Chapel of Santa Croce. The Roman people their loved benefactress" resorted there in crowds behold the once to more of tlie poor, the consoler of the afflicted. All strove to carry away mother some little memorial them doing good, and during of one who had gone about among the three days which did not abate. preceded the interment, the concourse On the day of the funeral Francesca knelt on one side of the coffin, and, in sight of all the crowd, she was wrapt in ecstasy. They saw her body lifted from the ground, and a seraphic expression on her upliftedface. They heard her murmur several times with an indescribable emphasis the word "Quando? Quando?" all was When immovable as if her soul had over, she stillremained ; it seemed risen on the wings of prayer, and followed Vanozza's spirit into the realms of bliss. At last her confessor ordered her to rise and go and attend on the sick. She instantly complied, and walked away to the hospitalwhich she had founded, of everything about apparently unconscious her, and only roused from her trance forsook her.' by the habit of obedience, which, in or out of ecstasy, never "Lady Georgiana Fullerton's Life of S. Fr. Romana.

There

are

several

good pictures over

the

altars in the aisles of

Ara-Coeli. In the Chapel of S. Margaret of Cortona are frescoes in that of S. Antonio, illustrativeof her life by FUippo Evangelisti,
"

frescoes by Nicolo da Pesaro ; but no one should omit visiting the first chapel on the rightof the west door, dedicated to S. Bernardino of Siena,and paintedby Bernardino who has put forth Pinturicchio, his best powers to his patron saint with a series of to do honour his assuming the monastic exquisitefrescoes,representing habit, his preaching, his vision of the Saviour, his penitence, death, and burial. The second chapelon the rightis that of the Delia Valle family, whose celebrated member most Pietro della Valle,the great was traveller of the seventeenth century. In Persia he had married a beautiful Georgian, and, on her death, carried her body about with him for four years, even takingit with him to India, and eventually A papalcoachman buried it here with great pomp. havinginsulted
1

The

statue

art-loving pope
flcismemoriae.'

of Leo X. is interestingas having been erected to this popular ' in his lifetime. It is inscribed, Optimi liberalissimique pontiO

^VOL. T.

98
one

Walks

in Rome

of his Turkish servants, he killed him in the Piazza Quirinale, under the very eyes of Urban aboiit to give his VIII., who was benediction from the balcony. Delia Valle then fled to Paliano, where the powerfulColonnas gave him a refuge, tillhe was pardoned forth and thenceby the pope, on the intercession of Cardinal Barberini, lived in Rome, in great honour, tillhis death in 1652. He left several children by his second wife, a young who cousin of his first, intrusted her to his charge upon her death-bed. Almost opposite this" closed except during Epiphany is the of the Presepio,where the famous image of the Santissimo Chapel d' Ara-Coeli is shown Bambino at that season lyingin a manger. For those who witness this sight it will be interesting to turn to the origin of a Presepio.
"

' to III. [1223], with his usual simplicity, S. Francis asked of Pope Honorius to celebrate Christmas be allowed with certain unusual ceremonies which. had ceremonies which he must have thought likelyto suggested themselves to him" the popular imagination and impress the unlearned folk. He would seize upon not do it on his own of levity. we are told,lest he should be accused authority, for the village of Grecia, a little When he made this petition,he was bound to remain where he was In place not far from Assisi, during that sacred season. when this village, the eve of the Nativity approached, Francis instructed a certain called Giovanni, to prepare and worthy man, and an ass, along with ox an grave of a stable, for his use, in the church. and all the common a fittings manger the solemn When night arrived, Francis and his brethren arranged all these of the night at Bethlehem. things into a visible representation of the occurrences filled with hay, the animals The manger led into their places ; the were was scene was prepared as we see it now through all the churches of Southern Italy" of realistic detail, a reproduction, so far as the people know how, in startling the surroundings of the first Christmas. We told that Francis stood by are shame to him) repreno this, his simple theatrical (for such indeed it was" sentation, all the night long, singing for joy, and filled with an unspeakable sweetness."" If rs. Oliphant,' S. Francis.'
. .

The simple meaning of the term Presepio is a manger, but it is also used in In the Ara-Coeli Church to signifya representation of the birth of Christ. In the forewhole of one of the side-chapelsis devoted to this exhibition. ground is a grotto,in which is seated the Virgin Mary, with Joseph at her side in her lap. Immediately behind Bambino and the miraculous and an an are ass On one side kneel the shepherds and kings in adoration ; and above, God ox. the Father is seen surrounded ments, by crowds of cherubs and angels playing on instruIn the background in the early pictures of Raffaelle. is a scenic as representation of a pastoral landscape, on which all the skill of the scene-painter is expended. Shepherds guard their fiock far away, reposing under palm-trees or The distances and perstanding on green slopes which glow in the sunshine. spective In the middle'ground is a crystalfountain of glass, admirable. near are of real wool and cotton which sheep, preternaturallywhite, and made wool, are of shepherds carved in wood. Still nearer come feeding,tended by figures women, and other fruits on their heads. All the bearing great baskets of real oranges nearer figuresare full sized,carved in wood, painted, and dressed in appropriate Bambino in a white dress, robes. is a painted doll swaddled which The miraculous is crusted over with magnificent diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The Virgin also in her ears wears superb diamond pendants. The general eftect of the scenic show is admirable, and crowds flock to it and press about it all day long. ' While this is taking place on one side of the church, on the other is a very different and of the antique Around one quite as singular an exhibition. columns a with every stage is erected,from which little maidens are reciting, kind of pretty gesticulation, dialogues,and little speeches, in explanation sermons, of the Presepioopposite. Sometimes two of them are engaged in alternate about the mysteries of the Incarnation and the Redempquestions and answers tion. Sometimes the recitation is a piteous description of the agony of the the the

'

100

Walks

in Rome

The outer Sacristycontains a fine picture of the 'Holy Family,' Removed to the Capitoline Museum from this by Giulio Romayio. church is an altar dedicated to Isis by a traveller who had returned in safety. It bore two footprints, which tradition declared to be those of the angel seen S. the of the mausoleum on by Gregory top of Hadrian. The the long flight of steps which scene on leads to the west door of Ara-Coeli is very curious during Epiphany.
If any one visit the Ara-Coeli during an afternoon in Christmas or Epiphany, the scene is very striking. The and flightof one hundred twenty-four steps is then thronged by merchants of Madonna who spread them out over the wares, Here to be seen steps and hang them against the walls and balustrades. are all sorts of curious little coloured and Child of the most prints of the Madonna little bags, pewter medals, and crosses extraordinary quality, stamped with the the neck" all offered at once for the sum of one same on figuresand to be worn Here also are baiocco. framed pictures of the saints,of the Nativity, and in of all sorts of religious a word Little wax subjects appertaining to the season. clad in cotton-wool,to represent the Saviour, and sheep made of the same dolls, and Children Contadini materials, are also sold by the basketful. are busy all up and down the steps, of buying them, and there is a deafening roar "Mezzo mezzo baiocco, bello colorito, baiocco, la Santissima Concezione IncoroRomano mednata," "Diario Romano, Lunario nuovo,"" "R,itratto colorito, di cera, un baiocco tutti," "Bambinello un aglia e quadruccio un baiocco tutti, baiocco." None of the prices are higher than one baiocco, except to strangers, and generally several articles are held up together,enumerated, and proffered with a loud voice for this sum. Meanwhile children, priests, men, women, and villani are crowding up and down, and we crowd with beggars, soldiers, them.'" iJo"a di Roma, i. 72.
" "

'

On the sixth of January the lofty steps of Ara-Coeli looked like an anthill, so and boys who sold little books (legends thronged were they with people. Men and prayers), rosaries,pictures of saints,medallions, chestnuts, oranges, and other things,shouted Little boys and girlswere and made still a great noise. preaching zealously in the church, and people of all classes were crowding thither. advanced with the thundering cheerful music of the fireProcessions II Bambino, a painted image of wood, covered with jewels, and with a corps. in white gloves,and its head, was carried by a monk exhibited on yellow crown to the people from a kind of altar-like erection at the top of the Ara-Coeli steps. shoAvn on all sides, was Everybody dropped down upon their knees ; II Bambino the music thundered, and the smoking censers were svfung.'"Frederika Bremer.

'

the only publicwork in Rome during the residence of the popes at Avignon, of Ara-Coeli, after the to the Madonna votive and were a offering from the plague. deliverance of Rome of Ara-Coeli was gether The Convent wantonly destroyed in 1886, toof Paul III,, which with the noble tower rose so grandlyat and utterly the end of the Corso, to make way for an uninteresting Emmanuel is wholly to Victor II., which misplaced monument out of place on the Roman Capitol,though it might well have been of the dreary squares of his own town. The erected in one new resting destroyedconvent contained much that was picturesque and intecurious well, "c., and in its noble gothic cloisters, was dear to all Catholic Christians, as always having been especially Order. S. Giovanni the residence of the General of the Franciscan IV. abbot in the of here reign Eugenius Capistranowas descend from the CapitolinePiazza towards the Let us now These executed

brought from the Quirinal,are steps,

Mamertine
Forum,

Prisons

101

by the staircase on the left of the Palace of the Senator. Close to the foot of this staircase is a church, very obscure-looking, Yet every one enter with some rude frescoes on the exterior. must this buildino^, for here are the famous Mamertine Prisons (so called from a statue also gave a name of Mars to the or Mamers, which Via di Marforio), from the solid rock under the Capitol. excavated The prisonsare entered through the low church of S. Pietro in and blazingwith lamps, Carcere, hung round with votive offerings
' There is an upper chamber in the Mamertine Prisons, over what is said to have been" and very possibly may have been"the dungeon of S. Peter. This chamber fitted up as an oratory, dedicated to that saint ; and it lives as is now too. It is very small and lowa distinct and separate place in my recollection, roofed ; and the dread and gloom of the ponderous, obdurate old prison are on it, come as if they had up in a dark mist through the floor. Hanging on the walls, the clustered votive offerings,are objects at once strangely in keeping among and strangely at variance with the place rusty daggers, knives, pistols, clubs, of violence divers instruments and murder, brought here fresh from use, and them would drain hung up to propitiate offended Heaven ; as if the blood upon off in consecrated It is all so silent and so air,and have no voice to C17 with. are so close, and tomblike, and the dungeons below black, and stealthy, and within a dream a dream : stagnant, and naked, that this little dark spot becomes and in the vision of great churches whicli come rollingpast me like a sea, it is a small that melts into no other wave, and does not flow with the wave by itself, reBt'"Dickeiis.
"

outer

Enclosed in the church, near the entrance, may be frieze of the prison wall, with the inscription c
.

observed
viBius
.

the
C
.

RUFINUS

coccEius

NERVA

COS
are
.

consuls of A. d. 22, who prison. This is the prison career

"

of two

the names recording have to supposed repairedthe

EX
.

c,

mentioned

prison was
to this

media urbe imminens foro of the times when one by Livy.^ JuvenaPs description sufficient for all the criminals in Rome refers naturally
"

: building
'

Felices proavorum

Saecula,quae
Viderunt
uuo

atavos, felicia dicas quondam sub regibus at"iuetribunis

carcere

contentam

Komam.' Sat. iii.312.

staircase leads to the horrible dungeon of Ancus sixteen feet in height, and twenty-two in Martius, thirtyin length, breadth. there was and the prisonerswere no staircase, Originally let down here, and hence into the lower dungeon, through a hole in the middle of the ceiling. The largedoor at the side is a modern innovation, having been opened to admit the vast mass of pilgrims the festa. The whole of huge blocks during prison is constructed of tufa without remains cement. Some shown of the Scalae are from the groans of the prisoners"by which were dragged forth to be exposed to the insults of the into the Tiber. It was populace or to be thrown by this staircase that Cicero came forth and announced the execution of the Catiline conspiratorsto the people in the Forum, by the singleword
"

modern

Gemoniae the bodies

so

called

I. 33.

102

Walks

in Rome

ceased to live.' Close to the exit of these stairs the Emperor Vitellius was murdered hacked to pieces. On the wall by which descend the to lower dungeon is a mark, you kissed by the faithful,as a spot against which S. Peter's head rested. The lower prison, called Robur, is constructed of huge blocks of tufa,which met in a conical roof, but are now originally fastened together by cramps to of iron and approach horizontally It has to from centre. a common been attributed early times Servius Tullius ; but Ampere ^ argues against the idea that the lower prison was of later originthan the upper, and suggests that it is Pelasgic, and older than any other building in Rome. It is described in his and its horrors who by Livy by Sallust, depicts account of the execution of the Catiline conspirators."^ The spot is shown in turn. attached and strangled to which these victims were In this dungeon, at an earlier period,Appius Claudius and Oppius the decemvirs committed suicide (B.C.449). Here Jugurtha, king of Mauritania, was starved to death by Marius, and exclaimed when ' he found the bottom of his cell covered with water, Hercules, how cold your bath is I Here Julius Caesar, during his triumph for the conquest of Gaul, caused his gallantenemy to be Vercingetorix of minister friend and Here the Tiberius, put to death. Sejanus, of Drusus, son of executed for the murder disgraced too late,was the emperor, and Livilla. for an intrigue with his daughter-in-law, Here fered of Simon last defender also, Jerusalem, sufBar-Gioras,the
"

Vixerunt,'They have

'

during the triumph

'

of Titus.
nous

Pourquoi les guides

mene

triomphale qui

pourquoi aucun jour du triomphe de de monter vous au rappeler que ce jour-lale triomphateiu',au moment temple, devant le sang d'une verser victime, s'arreta a cette place, tandis que Ton d6tachait de son cortege un captifde plus haute taille et plus richement vetu que les autres, et qu'on I'emmenait dans cette prison pom son supplice y achever le lacet meme lation Ce ne fut qu'apres cette immoavec qu'ilportait autour du cou. ! monter le marche et de acheva jusqu'au Capitole sa reprit cortege que Ce captifdont on ne daigne nous Bar-Gioras ; c'etait un des parler,c'etait Simon trois derniers defenseurs de Jerusalem de ceux qui la defendirent ; c'etait un des demons maitres d'une comme jusqu'aubout, mais helas ! qui la defendirent de laquelle ils ne veulent pas se laisser chasser, et non des ame point comme et perdue. Aussi cette gi-audeurque la champions heroiques d'une cause sacree la plus la calamity seule infortune suffit souvent a donner, elle manque pour attaches iv cette immense ait vue, et les noms catastrophe grande que le monde ne demeurerent fameux ! Jean de Giscala, Eleazar,Simon Bar-Gioras : pas meme les noms de qui pense h. eux aujourd'hui? L'univers entier proclame et venere deux pauvres Juifs qui, quatre ans auparavaut, dans cette m^me prison,avaient le mort aussi attendu le supplice ; mais le malheur, le courage, eux tragique des et un dedaigneux oubli les a effaces de la autres,ne leur ont point donne la gloire, Severin.' memoire des hommes I'"Mrs. AvgriMus Craven, 'Anne

montre si souvent la voie de fois enmnere les souvenirs, deux a-t-il jamais parle de ce qui survint le ne nous Laissez-moi Titus, la-bas,pres des prisons Mamertines? et les
au

antiquairesqui en Capitole et nous

ont

ont

tant

1 2

Hist. Home.
'

Est locus in carcere ubi paululum descenderis quod Tullianum appellatur, muniunt undique laevam, circiter duodecim pedes humi depressus. Eum parietes,atque insuper camera lapideis fornicibus vincta ; sed incultu,tenebris, odore foeda atque terribilis ejus facies eat.' "Sail. Catil. Iv.

ad

Mamertine
'

Prisons

103

Along the sacred way Hither the triumph came, ami, winding round With acclamation, and the martial clang Of instruments, and cars laden with spoil, Stopped at the sacred stair that then appeared, Then thro' the darkness broke, ample, star-bright, 'Twas As tho' it led to heaven. night ; but now A thousand torches,turning night to day, Blazed, and the victor,springing from his seat, Went up, and, kneeling as in fervent prayer. Entered the Capitol. But what are they train at the foot withdrawn, Who a mournful
In fetters 'I And

who, yet incredulous.

his sons. on Now gazing wildly round, now well pleased with all they see, On those so young, Staggers along, the last? They are the fallen. Those who were spared to grace the chariot-wheels

the road divides. And there they parted,where The victor and the vanquished- there withdrew ; He to the festal board, and they to die. Well might the great,the mighty of the world.

They

who

were

wont

to fare

deliciously

or less. but for a kingdom more And war endure to look. Shrink back, nor from their thrones To think that way ! Well might they in their pomp Humble themselves, and kneel and supplicate like this I To be delivered from a dream
'

'Italy. liojers'
watched out withHere Plinyrecords the devotion of a dog, which for three days and nights; food by the dead body of his master into the Tiber,dived thrown and afterwards, when the body was in trying to support it, all Rome drowned beneath, and was

lookingon.
to the Christian world as the prison The spot is more interesting for nine said to have been bound of SS. Peter and Paul, who are fountain of excellent A here. shown is to w hich months a pillar, is attributed to the prayers water, beneath the floor of the prison, to baptize his gaolers. of S. Peter, that he might have wherewith astical and Martinianus Processus ; but, unfortunately for this ecclesitradition,the fountain is described by Plutarch as having This fountain existed at the time of Jugurtlia's imprisonment. of TuUianum, by which it was probablygave the dungeon the name mentions a tidlius Livy^ sometimes meaning a spring.^ known, This name probablygave rise prisonerbeing put in the Tullianum. with Servius Tullius. the of connection idea of the the to prison mortar. construction as believes that S. Peter Catholic Church It is hence that the Roman Christian the world. farewells to addressed their and S. Paul

A thin

layer of lime

is used

in the

of S. Peter :" Lord Jesus Christ hath our as Shortly I must put off this tabernacle,even be able after my decease I will endeavour that ye may Moreover showed me. For we have not followed cunningly these things always in remembrance. to have known and coming of our to you the power made when devised fables, we Nevertheless Lt"rd Jesus Christ. we, according to His promise, look for new

That
'

heavens

and

new

earth, wherein

dwelleth

27ui righteousness.'"
2

S. Peter.

See Ampere,

Hist. Bom.

ii.31.

xxix. 22.

104

Walks

in

Rome

That 'God ashamed

of

S.
hath

Paul
not

:"

given testimony
afflictions

us

spirit
our

of
nor

fear.
...

Be of
me

not

thou,
but
of

therefore,
be thou
I
...

of of trouble

the
the
as

of

Lord, gospel
even

his to
;

prisoner;
power

partaker
suffer

of

the

according
unto

the the

God. God also God is

not may and

an

evil-doer,
I endure all

bonds for
Jesus.
...

but

word that thee dead

of

bound. obtain

Therefore the Lord

; be

things,
in" Christ

the

elect's I

sake, charge
the

they by
. .

salvation Jesus instant and

which

is
who

by
the

the
word

Christ,
in doctrine make time course,
of

shall
out

judge
of
season

the ; all

quick
repiove,

and

preach
.

season,
;
. .

rebuke,
endure
For I

exhort

with

all the to

long-suffering
work be
I

watch
.

in of

things, ministry.
hand. 2nd
"

afflictions,
I
am now a

do

of

an

evangelist,
and
the my

full my

proof departure

thy
is
at

ready good

offered,
have

have

fought

fight,

finished

have

kept

the

faith.'

Timothy.

On when first

July they
kneel

4,
are

the

prisons
visited then
at

are

the

scene

of

picturesque

solemnity,
who

night

by

the

religious
in del
an

confraternities,
devotion. have of the

and chambers

prostrate
under which
were

themselves the Vicolo

silent

Other been

Ghettarello extension

recently
ancient

discovered,

probably

prison.
Above dei the Church S. of S. of Pietro the in Carcere is that of S.

Giuseppe

Falegnami,

Joseph

Carpenters.

CHAPTER
THE FORUMS AND THE

IV
COLISEUM
Mars

I'oruni

of di Loreto)" Temple of Trajan" (S. Maria of Nerva" Forum of Julius Caesar" Augustus" Forum
"Forum Tribune" Comitium"Vulcanal" Romanum" of Saturn" of Vespasian" Temple Arch Pollux" of Castor and Temple of Vesta"

Ultor"

Forum

of

of the VestalsBasilica of Constantine and Faustina" Pillar of Phocas" Temple of Antoninus and Damian S. ;Maria S. Adriano" Liberatrice, SS. Cosmo (S. Martine" of Titus" Arch and Rome" of Venus vS. Francesca Romana)" Temple Sudans" Arch of Constantine Meta (S. Maria Pallara" S. Buonaventura)Coliseum.
House
" "

Temple Temple

(Academy of S. Luke) Temple of Concordof Septimius Severus

"

"

the FOLLOWING and turning to remains of the Forum for the Emperor This forum now the

Corso the of

to

its end find

at

the

Eipresa
at
once

dei

Barberi,
amid the

left, we
on

ourselves from the

Trajan, erected by the architect Apollodorus

his return
wars

Trajan

of the ravine

Danube. between
to
over

presents

the

Capitolineand Quirinal, but

is

a appearance artificial hollow, excavated an

of

facilitate the circulation the door

it
was

of life within

the

city.

An

inscription

that of the column, which overtops the other ruins, shows the depth of earth which raised in order to mark was moved rebetween forum. The barrier the to construct earth, forming a

the

parts of the town, was formerly as high as the top of the Hill. reaches (140 feet) to the level of the Palatine column, which
two

The
names

forum

was

sometimes

called

the

'

Ulpian,'from

one

of

the

of the emperor.

Before the year A.D. 107 the splendours of the city and the Campus beyond it still separated by a narrow isthmus, thronged perhaps by the squalid cabins of the poor, and surmounted by the remains of the Servian wall which ran along had its summit. approached with their new Step by step the earlier emperors Domitian the first to contemplate fomms to the foot of this obstriiction. was and to give had the fortune to consecrate and commence its removal. Nerva took to a portion of his predecessor's construction his own name ; but Trajan underto complete the bold design, and the genius of his architect triumphed over in extent all obstacles, and executed which exceeded and splendour any a work of the kind. He previous achievement swept away every building on the site, levelled of columnar the sjjot on which they had stood, and laid out a vast area for public use and recreation. The new galleries, connecting halls and chambers forum adorned with two libraries, of Greek, the other of Roman was one volumes,
'

were

and

bounded the west it was on by a basilica of magnitlcent dimensions. Beyond and within the limits of the Campus, the sime architect (Apollodorus) basilica, longed erected a temi)le for the worship of Trajan himself; but tins work probably beto the reign of Trajan's successor, and no doubt the Ulpian forum, with all its adjuncts, occupietlmany in building. The area adorned with was years this 105

106
numerous

Walks

in Rome

in Avhich the figure of Trajan was and statues, frequentlyrepeated, its decorations in bronze were or marble, representing his most among groups illustrious actions. The balustrades and cornices of the whole mass of buildings flamed with gilded images of arms Here and horses. stood the gi'eatequesti'ian statue of the emperor the triumphal arch decreed him by the senate, ; here was adorned with sculpture, which Constantine, two centuries later, transferred without to his own, to barbarous act of this firstChi'istian emperor, a a blush their preservation to this day from more which, however, Ave probably owe barbarous under the Empire,' ch. Ixiii. spoliation.' Merivale,'Romans
"

The beautiful Column called of Trajan, the best of Roman princes, Columna from its like the stairs of Cochlis, winding spiral a shell, erected by the senate and people of Rome was A.D. 114, to show the of mound the ad levelled the declarandum height by emperor et locus sit egestus. It is composed of thirtyquantae altitudinis mons four blocks of marble, and is covered with a spiralband of basreliefs illustrative of the Dacian wars, and increasing in size as it the top, so that it preserves throughout the same nears proportion when It from below. crowned seen was formerly by a statue of Trajan, holding a giltglobe, which latter is still preservedin the Hall of Bronzes in the Capitol. The statue had fallen from its pedestallong before Sixtus V. replacedit by the existingfigureof S. Peter. At the foot of the column a chamber, was sepulchral intended to receive the imperialashes, which were, however, preserved in a golden urn, upon an altar in front of it.^
"

'

To crush

the imperial urn, whose

Apostolic statues climb ashes slept sublime.'

Childe

Harold, ex.

The foiiim of Trajan comprised seven different sections,namely, the prowith the equestrian pylaia,or triumphal arch of the emperor itself, ; the square statue in the middle Ulpia ; the two Ulpia ; the Bibliotheca ; the Basilica of and the column hemicycles ; the monumental Trajan. The ensemble of temple ; tecture archithese various sections was considered not only the masterpiece of Eoman Let me of the golden age, but one of the marvels of the world. quote the words with which Ammianus Marcellinus (xvi.10) describes the impression felt by the Emperor Constantine entered at the first sight of the group. Having now the forum of Trajan,the most marvellous invention of human genius," singularemsub omni coelo structuram, he was struck with admiration, and looked round with amazement, without being able to utter a word, wondering at the gigantic and which mankind contextus, which no pen can describe, structures, giganteos create of centuries. and see only once in the course can Having consequently at approach, even given up any hope of building himself anything which would he turned his attention to the equestrian a respectful distance,the work of Trajan, statue placed in the centre of the forum, and said to his attendants that he would have one like it in Constantinople." These words having been heard by Hermisdas, a young Persian prince attached to his court, he turned quickly towards the and keep such a horse, you and said, If your majesty wants to secure emperor, must first provide him with a stable like this." '"Lanciani, A7icie7it Borne.
"
"
" "

'

"

that Gregory the Great, while walking in this forum observingone of the marble groups which told of a good and great action of Trajan, lamented that the soul of so noble a man bitterly It
was

There are some who believe that would be found buried even now urn, in his lifetime.

in their golden the ashes of the emperor, erected which was in front of the column

108
new

Walks forum, which

crowds
was

in

Rome
to

erected

in order the

provide accommodation
Romanum and
Forum

for the Julium.

'

which

overflowed

Forum

The

title of Ultor marked

the

war

and

the victoryby

which, agreeably

to his

vow,

Augustus had avenged his uncle's death.

' "

Mars, ades, et satia scelerato sanguine ferrum ; Stetque favor causa pro nieliore tuus. vocaberis Ultor." ^ me victore, Templa feres,et,
extended
of

each side of the temple with a gentle on distinguished Roman generals. The banquets of the Salii were which led to its identification, transferred to the temple, a circumstance of these from the discovery of an inscriptionhere recording the mansiones priests. Like the priesthood in general, they appear to have been fond of good of the Emperor Claudius having been anecdote living,and there is a well-known lured by the steams of their banquet from his judicial functions in the adjacent forum to come and take part in their feast. The temple M^as appropriated to with matters connected and triumphs wars meetings of the senate in which debated. were Here, while Tiberius was building a temple to Augustus his golden statue reposed upon the Palatine, a couch.'" i)t/er's 'City of upon
. . .

'The porticoes,which statues curve, contained

Rome.'
to the time of Augustus, the god Mars, the reputed father of the Roman never, it is said,enjoyed the distinction of a temple within the walls. He was then introduced into the city which he had saved from overthrow and of Caesar to justicewas ruin, and the aid he had lent in bringing the murderers he was now signalised by the title of Avenger, by which specially addressed.

'Up

race, had

The Temple of Mars Ultor, of gigantic proportions, "Et deus est ingens forum of Augustus at the foot of the Capitoline et opus," was erected in the new and Quirinal hills,.'" under the Empire.' Merivale,'Bomans
.
.

' les magisCe temple etait particulierement cher a Auguste. II voulut que trats en partissentpour aller dans leurs provinces ; que I'honneur du triomphe les triomphateurs y fissent hommage a Mars Vengeur de y fiit decerne, et que leur couronne et de leur sceptre ; que les drapeaux pris a I'ennemi y fussent des jeux en avant des les chefs de la cjivalerie executassent conserves ; que de leur charge, y sortant marches de ce temple ; enftn que les censeurs, en attache au Capitole. plantassent le clou sacre, vieil usage etrusque jusque-lii Auguste desirait que ce temple fonde par lui prit I'importance du Capitole. 'II fitdedier le temple par ses petits-flls Caius et Lucius autre petit; et son le jeu de la des de nobles enfants tete a fils, Rome, plus Agrippa, y celebra Troie, qui rappelait I'origine pretendue troyenne de Cesar ; deux cent soixante lions furent egorges dans le cirque, c'etait leur place ; deux troupes de gladiateurs combattirent dans le Septa ou faisaient les elections au temps de la se si Auguste eut voulu, par ces combats republique, comme qui se livraient en I'honneur des morts, celebrer les funcrailles de la liberte Tomaine.'" Ampere, Emp. i. 224.

of Mars of the stands at the north-eastern corner which extended far from here of as Forum magnificent Augustus, in size the Forum of the present Via Alessandrina, surpassing as of sufficient size Julius Caesar, to which it was adjoining. It was used for fights of animals {vcnationes). to be frequently Among its ornaments statues of Augustus triumphant and of the subdued were illustrative of the great deeds he had with provinces, inscriptions The

Temple

accomplished there
with Part

; also

War picture by Apelles representing

her hands bound of the boundary

behind wall
1

her, seated

upon
on

pile of
two

arms.

exists, enclosing

sides

the

Ovid, Fasti, v. 575.

Forums
remains

of

Augustus

and

Nerva

109

of the temple of Mars Ultor,and is constructed of huge of poperino. The arch in the wall close to the temple is masses known Arco dei Pantani. It has voussoirs of travertine in the as wall of peperino. The sudden turn in the wall here is interesting of some concession made to the wish as a commemorating prietors, prowho were to part with their houses for the sake unwilling of the forum.
C'est I'histoire du moiilin de Sans-Souci,qui du reste parait n'etre pas vraie. II est picjuant d'assister anjourd'hui iice mcnagement d'Auguste pour I'opinion En s'inflochir parce qu'ilvoulait gaguer. voyant le mnr qu'ila fallu dpargner croit voir la toute-puissance d'Augiiste gauchir a dessein on (inolquesniaisoiis, (levant les interets seule puissance avec particuliers, laquelle il reste ii compter de la politiqued'Auguste est (iuand tout int^ret general a disparu. L'obliquitt^ visible dans I'obliquite de ce mur, qui niontre et rend pour ainsi dire palpable le Le mur manage adroit de la tyrannic, se deguisant pour se fonder. biaise, biaisa constamment comme rempereur.'" ^"H_pere, Emp. i. 223.
' '

the Via (The street on the left passing the Arco dei Pantani della Salita del Grille, commemorates the approach to the castle of the great mediaeval family Del Grille. The street on the right leads through the ancient Subnrra.) At the corner of the next street (Via della Croce Bianca) on the left of the Via Alessandrina is the ruin called the Colonnacce,' being part of the Portico of Pallas Minerva, which decorated the Forum in the Transitorium, begun by Domitian, but dedicated short of called and the hence Forum of Nerva, generally reign of the execration with which the memory of Nerva, on account Domitian was regarded. Up to the seventeenth century seven still standing, magnificent columns of the Temple of Minerva were but they were destroyed by Paul V., who used part of them in the Fontana of the temple Paolina. Part of the basement building found in 1882, built up into a house at the corner of the Via was Alessandrina and But the principal existing the Tor de' Conti. remains consist of two half-buried Corinthian with a figure columns of Minerva, and a frieze of bas-reliefs.
"
" "

'

"

Les bas-reliefs du forum de Nerva representent des femmes occupies de travaux avait d'aiguille, Quand on se rappelle que Domitien auxquels pr^sidaitMinerva. imitaient plac6 ;\Albano, pres du temple de cette deesse,un collegede prctres cjui la parure et les moeurs de femmes, on est tente de croire qu'ily a dans le choix des sujets figurds ici une allusion aux habitudes effeminees de ces pretres.' Ampere, Emp. ii.161.
"

'

is most rich and beautiful in architecture, portico of the temple of Minerva woefully gnawed by time and shattered by violence, besides being buried midway in the accumulation of the soil, that rises over dead Home like a but flood-tide. '"Ilawthorne.

'

The

It was in this forum that Nerva caused Vetronius Turinus, who had trafficked with his court-interest, to be suffocated with smoke, herald proclaiming at the time, Fumo a punitur qui vendidit
'

fumum.'
ing Returning a short distance down the Via Alessandrina,and turnd own the Via traverse the site of the Forum (left) Bonella, we

110
of Julius

Walks

in Rome

which 100,000 sestertia ("900,000) were expended, and which is described by Dion Cassius as having been beautiful than the Forum Komanum. It was ornamented more with of from Genitrix Venus whom Julius Caesar a Temple claimed to be descended" which contained of the goddess a statue of Caesar himself,and a group of Ajax and a statue by Archesilaus, Medea Here, also, Caesar had the effronteryto by Timomacus. the his of statue mistress, Cleopatra,by the side of that of place the goddess. In front of the temple stood a bronze figureof a horse of supposed to be the famous Bucephalus the work

Caesar, upon

"

"

"

Lysippus.
'Cedat equus, Latiae qui contra templa Diones, Caesarei stat sede fori ; quem tradere es ausus Pellaeo,Lysippe, duci,rnox Caesaris era Aurata cervice tulit.' Silv. i. 1, 84. Statins,
"

of this forum are a series of arched openings di Via behind them, the near Marforio, with vaulted chambers The head of each opening is a carefully now partlysubterranean. flat of arch brown tufa,except the springersand key-stones, joined of travertine. Over each which flat arch is a semicircular are a rch with tufa voussoirs. The vaults of the chambers are relieving concrete. They are supposed to have been offices for lawyers' Julium. the whole Forum clerks,and once probablysurrounded the the forum of site of of is Julius Caesar Part now occupied the end of the Via Bonella" the rightnear di on by the Accademia established Sixtus when he summoned the San Luca, by IV., great for the decoration of the Sistine. artists of all Italy to Eome its first director. The collections are open Federigo Zucchero was and Ariadne Bacchus is from 10 to 4 daily. A ceiling representing The Guido. best are : by pictures

The

remains principal

"

"

Poussin. Bacchus and Ariadne. Paolo Veronese. Vanity. Titian. Calista and tlie Nymphs. Guido Cagnacci. The murder of Lucretia. Guido. Fortune. Velasquez. Innocent XI. Titian. The Saviour and the Pharisee. *Raffaelle.A lovely fresco of a child. Attributed to Raffaelle.S. Luke paintingthe Virgin. S. Luke painting the Virgin has been a frequent and favourite subject. The of S. Luke, ascribed to Raffaelle. of all is a picture in the Academy famous S. Luke, kneeling on before an easel,is busied painting the Here a footstool to him out of heaven, sustained Virgin with the Child in her arms, who appears by clouds ; behind S. Luke stands Raffaelle himself, lookingon.' Mrs. Jameson.
'

most

"

A skull preservedhere was long supposed to be that of Raffaelle, but his true skull has since been found in his grave in the Pantheon. longtemps ven6r6 ici un crAne que Ton croyait etre celui de Raffaelle ; sur lequel les phrenologistes auront prononc6 de vains oracles, devant lequel on aura bien profond6ment rev6,et qui n'dtait que celui d'un obscur chanoine bien innocent de toutes ces imaginations.'"^. Du Pays.
a
*

On

crAne

6troit

The
Just had far

Forum
we

Romanum
the Forum

111

beyond

Maf^nura,as

S. Luca it continued

enter to

Komanum,
Forum

or

Forum

be

called after the

of

Trajan

surpassedit in

size.

The interest of Rome to its climax in the Forum : in spite comes stillremains of all that is destroyed, and all that is buried, so much to be seen, and entering every stone has its story. Even without which into all the vexed archaeological have filled the questions of Canina, Bunsen, Niebuhr, and many volumes others,the occupation

which in historywill find here is almost a traveller interested inexhaustible. Forum is complicatedby The study of the Roman the succession of public edifices by which it has been occupied, each and history having a different set of buildings, period of Roman each in a great measure before. went supplanting that which Another has naturally arisen from the exceedinglycircumscrib difficulty have to be arranged, space in which all these buildings and which shows that many of the ancient temples must have been ' and the so-called lakes little more than fountains. mere chapels, The high platforms rendered which all the temples stood were on flooded Forum because the the Tiber. was constantly by necessary The recent remarkable excavations have been chiefly for the discovery of nothing which was of and which was expected everything
'

not
'

expected.

This spot, where the senate had its assemblies, where the rostra were placed, where the destinies of the world were discussed,is the most celebrated and the most classical of ancient Rome. It was adorned with the most magnificent crowded another that their heaped-up so one monuments, which were upon ruins are not sufficient for all the names which are handed down to us by history. The course of centuries has overthrown it impossible to the Forum, and made define ; the level of the ancient soil is twenty-four feet below that of to-day,and however be acknowfeel to reproduce the past, it must ledged great a desire one may that this very ditt'erence of level is a terrible obstacle to the powers of of archaeologists are imagination ; again, the uncertainties discouraging to than three centuries learning has curiosityand the desire of illusion. For more been at work this field of ruins,without being able even to agree upon its upon it as extending from north to south,others from east bearings: some describing to west. from the Arch of Following the common opinion, its length was Septimius Severus to the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, and its breadth from the Church of S. Adriano to the steps of the Basilica Julia. Equal uncertainty of the e.xistijig prevails as to many ruins. The origin of the Forum goes back to the alliance of the Romans and the Sabines. It was surrounded a space by marshes, which extended between the Palatine and the Capitol,occupied by the two colonies,and sei-ving as a neutral gi-ound where they could meet. The Curtian Lake was situated in the midst. Constantly adorned under the republic and the empire, it appears that it continued to exist until the eleventh century. Its total ruin dates from Rol)ert Guiscard, who, when called to the assistance of for many Gregory VII., left it a heap of ruins. Abandoned centuries,it became a receptacle for rubbish which gradually raised the level of the soil. About 1547, Paul III. began to make excavations in the Forum. Then the place became a cattle-market,and the glorious name of Forum Romanum changed into that of Campo Vaccino. ITie Forum surrounded was the lower of which by a portico of two stories, was occupied by shops (tabernae). In the beginning of the sixth century of Rome, two fires destroyedpart of the edifices with which it had been embellished. This was an the Forum, and basilicas and temples were opportunity for isolating
'

112

Walks

in Rome

raised in succession along its sides, which in their turn were partly destroyedin the fire of Nero. rebuilt a part, and added the temple of Vespasian, Domitian and Antoninus that of Faustina.'" -4. Du Pays.

forum before 1876 were for the of Devonmost shire. part due to the generosityof Elizabeth,Duchess these the Government About Papal always extending displayed the most extraordinary apathy, but they have been since the fall of the popes. While gaining increased considerably in in historic interest, lost has the forum beauty since the greatly discoveries. the beautiful trees which recent Artists will lament with of hovl and contadini reposing the the mingled temples, groups in their shadow, and above all the lovelyvegetationwhich imparted lightand colour to the top of the ruins. As every vestigeof verdure is carefully cleared away it springs up, the appearance is that when of a number with some of ruined sheds in a ploughed field, fine
excavations

The

made

in the

columns interspersed.As Forsyth truly observes,' deep learning is generally the grave of taste.' of Septimius Severus, and turn If we stand in front of the Arch towards which is the Capitol, look upon the Clivus Capitolinus, we sites and historical viz. crowded with : fragments, perfectly modern This is one 1. The resting on the Tabularium. Capitol, of the earliest architectural relics in Kome. It is built in the Etruscan of huge blocks of tufa or peperinoplacedlong-and style, formerly composed of two stages alternately. It was cross-ways remains. It contained the called Camellaria. lower the now Only in the interior is remains tables of the laws. The corridor which used as a museum of architectural fragments. The Tabularium was the lower story of the palace of public accounts, the Somerset chambers have discovered in of Eome. House Kecent explorations
"

in Roman which the clerks cast up the accounts figures.Probably in the Temple of communicated with the Aemr'mm the Tabularium its where the Saturn, ready money, in which paygovernment kept ment for both army and civil service was always made. the Tabularium, 2. On the right of the excavated space, and nearest the earlier is the site of the Tribune, in front of which were in 44 another site to B.C. Julius Caesar Rostra, removed by sometimes is a site, 3. Below, a little more to the right, supposed the senate met before entering to be that of the Senaculum, where of the the survivor the Curia, sometimes of the Comitium, where saved by the voice of the Horatii was to death, and condemned of which bore the arms the people. Here, also,was trophiedpillar the Curiatii. of the Comitium In the area fig-tree grew the famous in here Ficus memoration comruminalis which was always preserved Romulus and Remus which were of the tree under which bronze suckled by the wolf, and beneath was a tation represenof the wolf and the children. 4. A little more to the left is the site of the Vulcanal, so called
" "

from an altar dedicated defined)where, to Vulcan, a platform (still mediate interused to meet Tatius and in the earliest times, Romulus on to both ; and where ground and transact affairs common

Temple of Vespasian
Brutus
saw
was

113

seated

when, without

his two beaten and sons before waited the Graecostasis,where foreign ambassadors was of the senate. t hey were admitted to an audience of Severus, is behind the Arch and Below the 5. just Vulcanal, the site of the Temple of Concord, founded by Camillus, B.C. 367,

change of countenance, he beheaded. Adjoining the Vulcanal

any

B.C. rebuilt and dedicated with blasphemous inappropriateness, Caius murder of after the 121, by the consul Opimius, immediately Gracchus. The temple was again rebuilt under Augustus. Here Cicero pronounced his orations againstCatiline before the senate. eleven The cclla contained niches, in which masterpieces of Greek art were placed. The podium,with a pavement of coloured marbles, remains; a beautiful fragment of the cornice is preservedin the At the base of the temple are upper arcade of the Tabularium. of the Colonna remains small stillto be seen Maenia, which some surmounted was by the statue of C. Maenius, who decorated the rostra with the iron beaks of vessels taken in war. still standing were which 6. The three beautiful columns are decided to attributed to a temple of Jupiter Tonans, but are now Piranesi of The to the of engravings Vespasian. belong Temple and to their capitals, mained buried almost they reas represent them disinterred during the first in this state until they were French occupation. The space was so limited in this part of Rome, that in order to prevent encroachingupon the street Clivus Capitothis temple and that of the hill between linus, which descends raised on a kind of terrace, Saturn, the Temple of Vespasian was the columns. and the staircase which led to it was thrust in between and restored to this the This temple was by Septimius Severus, letters on the entablature refer,being part of the word Eestituere. Instruments of sacrifice are sculpturedon the frieze. the Tabularium, 7. On the left of the excavated space, close beneath of columns a low range recently re-erected represents the small of seven in front of a row Forticus Deorum Consentium, of the for the use called the School of Xanthus, chambers rooms, scribes and persons in the service of the curule aediles, which derived their name from Xanthus, a freedman, by whom they were

and

rebuilt.
stillstanding, are columns (of lapispsaronius) part of the Temple of Saturn, the ancient god of the Capitol. to Before this temple Pompey sate surrounded listening by soldiers, he when from the which the orations Cicero was rostra, delivering
8. The

eightIonic

ut et ea voce received the personal address, Te enim jam appello, himself tribune Metellus Here the exaudire me flung possis.' of the treasure before the door and vainly attempted to defend The present in this temple againstJulius Caesar. the Aerarium remains are those of an indifferent and late renovation by Diocletian of an earlier temple of the time of Augustus, being composed of differ in diameter, and a frieze put together from columns which The original fragments which do not belong to one another. to and built was supposed was by TarquiniusSuperbus, temple
'

VOL.

I.

114

Walks

in Rome

the site of the ancient Sabine altar of the god and the limit mark of the wood of refuge mentioned by Virgil. The Temple of Saturn the only temple in Kome where heads were uncovered was : it was the first to inaugurate the use of burning wax tapers ; and its the originof the Carnival.^ anniversary feast,or Saturnalia, was The Aerarium Saturni gave a name of S. Salvatore in to the Church Aerario. the Temple of Saturn is the site of the Arch 9. Just below of Tiberius, erected,according to Tacitus, upon the recovery by Germanicus of the standards which Varus had lost. of the Milliarium the 10. The remains Aureum, which formed the arch upper extremity of a wall faced with marbles, ending near of Severus in a small conical pyramid. The distances to the chief the roads radiating from the gates of Rome towns are upon posed suphave inscribed the been Milliarium to as Aureum, upon distances within which the pyramid (from the walls were upon in this case of also measured) which bore the name they were Umbilicus Others think that the Umbilicus Romae. was only a sort of copy of the famous Omphalos of Delphi, which was believed to mark the centre of the world. The Via Sacra, which is still visible with its ancient of republicandate, descended basalt pavement from the temples of Saturn and the Capitol between and passed Vespasian being known here as the Clivus Capitolinus, to the left of erected by the 11. The Arch of Septimius Severus, which was and his two sons, Carasenate a.d. 205, in honour of that emperor calla and Geta. his victories It is adorned with bas-reliefs relating in the East his entry into Babylon, and the tower of the temple of of imperial history Belus, are represented. A curious memorial in the inscription, where still discern be observed we may may the erasure made by Caracalla after he had put his brother Geta to death in a.d. 213, for the sake of obliterating his memory. The "butthe added words principibus" optimis are fortissimisqve
"

"

"

ancient inscription getae. nobliss. fil. p. sept. lvc. caesari, has been made out by painstaking decipherers. In one of the piers is a staircase leading to the top of the arch, which was formerly adorned from coins of Severus and Caracalla) by a car (as seen drawn of Severus and figures by six horses abreast, and containing surmounted his sons. In the Middle by two Ages the arch was of SS. used as a belfryfor the church one was towers, of which of Turris de and the whence as Braccio, name Bacchus, Sergius appliedto the building.It was in front of this arch that the statue of Marcus at the Capitol. Aurelius stood, which is now
belles. L'aspect en proportions de I'arc de Septime-Severesont encore imposant; il est solide sans etre lourd. La grande inscriptionoii se lisent les epithetes victorieuses qui rappellent les sncces militaires de I'empereur, Parthique, Dacique, Adiabenique, se deploie sur une vaste surface et donne a I'entablement air de majeste qii'admirent les artistes. Cette inscriptionest im 'Les
est

See

Ancie7rt Lanciani,

Rom^.

116

Walks
a

in Rome

distance by the disinterred remains of the Basilica Julia,begun by Julius Caesar, and finished by Augustus, who dedicated it in honour of the sons of his daughter Julia. It restored bj^Severus in 199 B.C., and again by Diocletian after a was fire in 282 a.d., and was restored by the Praefect Gabinus finally Vetticus Probianus, as is recorded on a pedestal recentlyunearthed in the Vic us Jugarius. The basilica was with two a double porticus, stories of columns. It was three but side the sides, on open on away from the Forum opened into ranges of rooms, of which there are considerable remains. A basilica of this description intended was partly as a Law Court and partly as an Exchange. In this basilica the judges called Centumviri held their courts, which were four in number
:

occupied for

considerable

'Jam

clamor, centumque viri, densumque coronae Vulgus, et infanti Julia tecta placent.' Martial,Ep.

vi. 38.

Here Suetonius that the mad Caligula used to stand upon narrates the roof and throw money into the Forum for the people to scramble for. The Arch of Tiberius is supposed to have stood near the corner of this basilica. The south boundary of the republicanforum is marked lica by the Basilica Julia. The northern vestibule of the basiconverted into the Church of S. Maria de Foro. Beyond the basilica are three beautiful columns which belongto a restoration of the Aedes Castorum or Temple of Castor and Pollux, dedicated by Postumius, B.C. 484. Here costly sacrifices were always offered in the ides of July, at the anniversary of the battle of the Lake knights, richly clothed, Regillus,after which the Roman with olive, and bearing their trophies, crowned rode past it in from the militaryprocession, starting Temple of Mars outside the The Porta Capena. columns are existing part of the temple as with the spoilstaken in Germany.^ rebuilt by Tiberius and Drusus The pedestal of the statue of Marcus Aurelius and the statue of Jonah in S. Maria formed del Popolo were from other columns. The the three columns entablature which support is of great richness, and the whole fragment is considered to be one of the finest existing ruins have specimens of the Corinthian order. None of the Roman discussion than this. It has perpetually given rise to more changed other authorities considered Bunsen and many it to beits name. long Chalcidica ; but as it is known that to the Temple of Minerva discovered Basilica Julia was tween the position of the now exactly beand of that of Castor,and a passage the Temple of Saturn Ovid describes the latter as being close to the site of the Temple certain that it of Vesta, which is also ascertained, it seems now Dion Cassius mentions belonged to the Temple of the Dioscuri. this temple a vestibule to his house on the that Caligula made He used to appear himself for worship between Palatine. the great used for meetings twin brothers.The temple was also frequently of the senate.
was 1

Suet. Tib. 20 ; Dion. Cass. iv. 8, 27. 2 Suet. Cal. 22.

Temple
Between the Vicus Via Sacra the

of Vesta

117

Temple of Castor and Pollux and the Basilica Julia, Tuscus or Etruscan quarter (seeChapter V.) ran from the

the At its entrance towards the Circus Maxiraus. was and bronze of Vertumnus, the god of Etruria, statue patron of the modern Via the quarter. The long trough-shapedfountain near and bufTaloes at which dei Fienili, such picturesque groups of oxen the is a memorial of the Lake of Jutuma, are constantly standing, of the wife sister of Turnus, or, as she was sometimes described, Janus the Sabine war-god. This fountain (for such it must have

been)

was

dried up
'

by Paul V.

At quae venturas praecedit sexta kalendas, Hac sunt Ledaeis tenipla dicata deis. Fratribus ilia deis fratres de gente deorum lacus.' Circa Juturnae composuere Ovid, Fast. i. 705.

the Palatine,near the line of the earliest Via Sacra, remains have been discovered of the famous Temple or Aedes Sacra of Vesta, in which the sacred fire was preserved(symbolising the centre of domestic with the palladium saved from Troy. On life), the altar of this temple blood was annually from the tail sprinkled in of the horse which the Campus sacrificed to Mars Martins. was The worship of Hestia, imported into Rome from Alba Longa Alba ^ fire oriundum sacerdotium '^^had its originin the common focus of every puhlicus' which was preserved in a hut in the centre at a time when fire was Pomnot village, easilyprocured. Numa piliusestablished one of these on the border of the Velabrum, between the Palatine and the Capitol. It was burnt by the Gauls in vestals the 390, when again burnt escaped to Caere ; and it was in 241 B.C., when the Pontifex Maximus Metelius lost his eyesight in In the great fire under Nero saving the precious relics it contained. it was again burnt, was re-built and again burnt down under ComThe temple, modus, and restored for the last time by Julia Domna. thus rebuilt, demolished in 1489, but entirely in 1549. was perfect It was here, during the consulate of the young Marius, that the high priestScaevola was murdered, splashingthe image of Vesta with his blood ; and here (A.D. 68) Piso, the adopted son of Galba, in the sanctuary whither murdered he had fied for refuge, and was his head, being cut off,was Behind affixed to the rostra. the temple, along the lower ridgeof the Palatine, stretched the sacred Here Numa Pompilius fixed his residence, hoping grove of Vesta. to conciliate both the Latins of the Palatine and the Sabines of the Capitoline by occupying a neutral ground between them.
'
" " "

Close

under

'Quaeris iter? dicam : vicinum Castora canae Transibis Vestae, virgineainque domum ; Inde sacro veneranda petes palatiaclivo.' Martial, Kp. i. 71.
'

Hie focus est Vestae, qui Pallada servat et igneni. ttic fnit antiqui regia parva Numae.' Odd, Trixt. iii.El. 1.

118
'

Walks

in Rome

Hie locus exiguus, qui sustinet atria Vestae, Tunc erat intonsi regia magna Numae. Forma tamen templi, quae nunc manet, ante fuisse Dicitur ; et fonnae causa probanda subest. est et Terra ; subest vigilignisutrique, Vesta eadem terra focusque suara. sedem Significant nullo fulcimine nixa, Terra, pilaesimilis, Aere subjecto tam grave pendet onus. Arce Syracosia suspensus in aere clause Stat globus, immensi figurapoli : parva Et quantum a summis, tantum secessit ab imis Terra. forma rotunda facit. Quod ut fiat, Par facias templi : nullus procurrit ab illo Angulus. A pluviovindicat imbre tholus.'

Ovid, Fast.
'

vi. 263.

lucet in aris Alba, Lares,et quorum Ignis adhuc Phrygius,nullique adspecta virorum Pallas,in abstruse pignus memorabile templo.'
et

Servat

Lucan,
Just

ix. 992.

Temple of Vesta, below the Via between it and the Palatine, are the remains of the Atrium the Vestae, the conventual abode of the Vestal Virgins, ' of Martial, and the prototype of all the nunneries virgineadomus in the world. ^ The original buildingon this site was the Regia, said to have been built by Numa, which the residence of became the Pontifex in radicibus Palatii finibusque Maximus, who dwelt Romani Fori.'- This buildingwas destroyed by the Gauls in 390 the residence It was B.C., and again much injuredby fire in 191 B.C. of Julius Caesar from the time of his election to the oiRce of Pontifex wife the place where his second Maximus, and was
Nova, which
ran
'

beyond the site of the

'

of a woman to Pompeia admitted her lover Clodius in the disguise the mysteries of the Bona Dea. forth to Hence also Caesar went his death,and hence his last wife, Calpurnia, rushed forth with loud outcries to receive his dead of the space The smallness body. occupiedby the Regia is described by Ovid. Augustus, who preferreda residence upon the Palatine,presented the Regia to the Vestals,who soon pulleddown the original and erected another of a more building, important character for their own residence. When 'Ventum erat ad Vestae,' Horace says, the Alban he means the atrium, not the Temple of Vesta. Under of the sacred fire had been entrusted to four system, the care number Servius Tullius raised the number to six, which virgins ; remained Christian era, unchanged till the fourth century of the when it was increased to seven. The sisterhood was managed by the oldest virgin Virgo Vestcdis Maxima vestals were but as admitted at between six and ten years old, they often became maxima whilst still very young. vestals must The always have had both parents living and both of at the time of their election,
" "

character. irreproachable They any physicalimperfection. The

had

term

free from also to be absolutely of legalservice was thirty

1 2

Ad. Servius,

Lanciani. Aen.

viii. 363.

House

of the

Vestals

119

home The or years ; after that the vestal might return marry. under abbess enjoyed one of the positions of highest consideration the empire. Secrets of state and wills of emperors entrusted were resorted to her, and in outbursts of revolution or civil war she was to as a last hope of peace. ^ The
or

Vestals

had

seats

of honour

in the

theatres, amphitheatre,
when
on

circus,and the empress had to sit amongst them in public. The requests of the Vestals were
of them
was

she appeared his way

scarcelyever

and if one refused, he to the scaffold, The

met accidentally
once.

criminal

at reprieved

remains of the house autumn of 1883. They are after the fire of A.D. 191 by

discovered in the it was rebuilt of the Septimius Severus, though some of the republican period,and the to pavements are belonged ancient the The entrance was near Regia. Temple of principal Vesta beside it,on the right, of a small aedicula remains are ; and which contained of the goddess. It or statue a shrine, probably built of brick,with a marble roof and entablature supported on was marble columns. The frieze of the shrine is inscribed in letters of the time of Hadrian" Senatus pecunia populusque Romanus curavit.' The peristyle, which so was publica faciendam large^ as to give a name surrounded to the edifice, was paved by porticoes, either with mosaic oriental marbles, and separatedfrom the or of low columns on by forty-eight resting cipdlino, open space parapet walls, upon the ground floor,and, on the upper floor,by of which have been of hreccia-corcdlina, two forty-eightcolumns found perfect. In the centre of the open space, which was paved with black brick structure, a circle within a an mosaic, was surrounded ture miniaa flower-beds, by octagon, apparently perhaps of the Lucus Vestae on the Palatine, adjoining the Via Nova,' which was destroyed when Caligula extended his palace over the northern of the peristyle the pillars angle of the hill. Between stood the statues of Virgines Vestales Maximae, resting upon pedestals. There are hundred have been than to more a honorary supposed of the Vestals were those of the house
as

statues and many as pedestals, pedestalsnamed represented many the same lady. More than four- fifths of this series were destroyed in the Middle Ages : only thirty-six of inscriptions bearing names

Vestales
atrium

Maximae
two itself, to whom

have
on

been

the

in Rome, twenty-eightin the found Palatine,six in other parts of the town.

The
are

have been found commemorative inscriptions B.C.-19 A.D. ; Junia Torquata, daughter of Silanus, A.D. 19-48 ; Cornelia Maxima, ; Vibidia, the intercessor for Messalina murdered by Domitian ; Praetextata ; Numisia Maximilla, A.D. 200 ; Terentia Flavola, A.D. 215 ; Campia Severina, a.d. 240 ; Flavia Vestals
"

Occia,

38

Mamilia, A.D. 242

; Flavia

Publicia,A.D.

247 (of whom

there

is

See

Rutlolfo

Lanciani, in the Athenaeum, Feb. 2,

Suet.

1884.

Tacitus,Ann.
Divin.

xi.

32 ; Uist. iii. 81.

2 3
'

Vitel. 16. Sixty-seven metres long and twenty-four wide. Qui a Palatii radice in Novani Viam devexus est.'" Cicero, De

I. 45.

120
beautiful

Walks

in Rome
A.D,

286 ; Terentia Kufilla, A.D. 300; and Cloelia Concordia, the last but one of the Vestales Maximae. Besides these,an inscription the name has from which been she embraced memorates comerased, perhaps because Christianity,^ Ob meritum a lady of A.D. 364 in the words castitatis, doctrinae mirabilis atque in sacris religionibusque pudicitiae, viri clarissimi, vestali maximae, pontifices [name erased]virgini pro Macrinio Sossiano viro clarissimo,pro meritis ; dedicata magistro consulibus.' The quinto idus Junias, divo Joviano et Varroniano in the atrium, which of life size,range from complete statues are to mere figures fragments. They are mostly of the third century, date from the second. but one The finest,as a work of art, or two half of a figure, the upper the time of of is Hadrian, apparently of the sacred important as giving the only known representation hood of white whilst vestals a worn suffibidum, by sacrificing woollen the breast by a cloth with a purple border, fastened on fibula. The other statues show the a stola, long gown bound only the or zona, by a girdle usually without sleeves. Over this is worn and round the sacred vittac folds of head the rope-like pallium, in hidden the linen. the hair is and some cases by Though pallium vittae,yet in several statues enough hair is visible to show that it the novitiate the hair allowed to grow long,though on entering was inscribed to of the child vestal was cut off. All the pedestals are attained by seniority, the Virgo Vestalis Maxima, a rank but the in honour of Flavia Publicia two of the six pedestals on inscriptions that several grades were A.D. 247) show (c. passed through before they reached the highest dignity. On one of the later statues a metal monile or of bronze pins on the breast shows where a row which was found on necklace was fastened ; to a statue (now lost) in 1591, the necklace was stillattached.the Esquiline surrounded The atrium was the ground floor by state aparton ments of which the state archives were probably kept), (in some of the vestals,all once and on the upper floor by the privaterooms lined with marble, and thoroughly warmed by hypocausts hollow and floors, through which the hot air from furnaces could circulate, The the flue-tiles the walls. small roof to pillars by covering escape rest on the vaults of which {pilae) support the floors [suspensura] A bath-room, the lower rooms, which are made level by concrete. from the lined with precious marbles, was approached upper floor
'
"

statue); Cloelia Claudiana,

"

"

"

a wooden bridge. At the south-east end of the peristyle (towardsthe Arch of Titus) the TaUinum, approached by four steps between was columns, on The walls were either side of which were marble canceUi. panelled three small vaulted with coloured side marbles. either On are the right (which suffered from damp by their rooms,, those on

by

The

conversion

of

vestal to the
No.

new

faith is mentioned

by Piaidentius,
19

Hymn 2. Peristeph. 2 See the Saturday Review, 1879,May

8 and

1554, August 8, 1885 ; also the Times, Nov.

May 20, 1882.

Via
under position the

Nova

121

the Palatine ')warmed by hot air. In the central rested floor room, large amphorae cut in half, between upon behind these contained The room which the hot air circulated. a marble bath, and six niches for statuettes above it. It has also an work. arched furnace, the top of which is paved with herring-bone till late Vestae appears to have been left undisturbed The Atrium in the fourth century, when the last of the vestals were dying out or speaks of the last abandoning the ancient faith. Zosimus^ in deserted vestal old the almost as an woman surviving living liouse as late as a.d. 394, and cursing the Princess Serena, who took a necklace from the statue of the goddess and put it round than one vestal had become neck : before that time more her own Christian. After the worship of Vesta the a was extinguished, and inhabited for some later atrium appears to have been centuries, At the northern additions can be traced. angle of the peristyle, and eighth centuries found of the seventh in several rooms were afterwards of these was covered dis1883, and soon destroyed. In one of hoard a or large ripostvjlia English pennies probably of Alfred, Edward Peter's pence I., Athelstan, Edmund, and a few In the same of Sitric and Anlaf, kings of Northumbria. pot with these was of fibula,inlaid with silver, a bronze bearing the name 942 who was from Marinus 946. to II., pope The Via Nova, in the fourth century B.C., ran along the west of the hill, and continuing slope of the Palatine, turning the north corner
" "

'Summa Yelia.' In the reignof Augustus its course was changed, that it the of the of to corner Castor, Temple might pass jointhe Via Sacra the Temple of Romulus. Thus Ovid saw it near
east
"

along the

slope of the

Palatine

till it reached

'

Qua

nova

Romano

nunc

Via juncta Foro

est.' Fast. vi. 39G.

This famous
events stirring

lane,of which
of the

the

name

is connected

with

so

many

kinglyperiod,has been traced for 120 feet at the foot of the palace of Caligula, midway between the Via Sacra
and the Clivus Victoriae. On this side of the Forum, where the Cloaca Maxima is now laid bare, was the famous Curtian Lake, so called from Mettus Curtius, a Sabine warrior, who with difficulty escaped from its Romulus and quagmires to the Capitol after a battle between Tatius.^ Tradition declares that the quagmire afterwards became which an oracle declared would never close until that which a gulf, most was people was sacrificed to it. Then importantto the Roman the young Marcus Curtius,equipped in full armour, leapthis horse into the abyss, exclaiming that nothing was more importantto the
1 Its the Atrium Vestae very unhealthy ; but, till the fourth position made allowed to enter it: as soon sickness made its as century, no physician was the patient was removed to the house of her parents, or to that of appearance, some distinguished matron. 2 3
v.

3S. ;

i. G Statius,

Livy, vii. 0.

122
Roman

Walks

in Rome

and courage : and the gulf was closed for people than arms it is the believed have been to of of the hot crater now one ; mentioned erected afterwards springs by Varro.^ Two altars were the site to the two heroes, and a vine and an olive tree grew on there. ^ fora sunt, udae tenuere paludes : Hie, ubi nunc Amne fossa madebat redundatis aquis. Curtius ille lacus, siccas qui sustinet aras, Nunc solida est tellus, sed lacus ante fuit.'
ever
^
'

Ovid, Fast.
Some
name

vi. 401.

of Lacus times, for the

'

fountain,like those of Servilius and Juturna, bearing the Curtius,must have existed on this site to imperial

Emperor

Galba

was

murdered
the
it on

there.
standard-bearer
the tore

ground. The soldiers at once decided for Otho ; swords were of favour and every symptom drawn were the bystanders was for Galba amongst till they dispersed repressed by menaces, of the emperor's litter and fled in horror from the Forum. At last,the bearers enemies overturned it at the Curtian pool beneath the Capitol. In a few moments have he muttered, which swarmed around his 1)ody. A few words been diversely said that they were reported : some abject and unbecoming ; others affirm that he presented his neck to the assassin's sword, and bade him strike "if it wei'e for the good of the republic ; but none perhaps heeded the words listened,none the author of his mortal actuallyspoken ; Galba's throat was pierced, but even wound not ascertained,while, his breast being protected by the cuirass, his was hacked vii. 73. with repeated gashes.'"3/eni'o^e, were legs and arms
"

A single cohort still surrounded Galba, when Emperor's image from his spear-head and dashed

the

Oppositethe

Basilica Julia is the Column

of Phocas,

monument

probably of the end of the fourth century, from the base of which the was originalinscription evidentlyerased by the exarch Smaragdus discovered in 1813, in 608,and replaced by the inscription to Phocas which has given a name This is the to pillar.
"

'

The

nameless
now

column

with

buried

base,'

of

Byron,

but

is

neither

having been laid bare by the which bearing an inscription anticipated.

'

nameless nor buried, its pedestal in 1813, and Duchess of Devonshire that ever shows intention one no an

like that of Trajan In the age of Phocas (602-10), the art of erecting a column taken Corinthian had been lost. A large and handsome 'SI.Aurelius pillar, from in the a therefore on or huge Forum, some was placed temple basilica, with a statue pyramidal basis quite out of proportion to it,and was surmounted of a monumental of Phocas in gilt bronze. It has so little the appearance ruined building, for to to while that it some a was belong column, long thought of Phocas The in 1813, the inscriptionwas discovered. had, indeed, name till, to him is shown been erased ; but that it must have been dedicated by the date. have rested to 1816 The base of this column, discovered of the excavations by the ancient pavement of the Forum, proves that this former centre of Roman on with ruins.' at the beginning of the seventh century, unencumbered life was still,
or
.
. .
"

Dyer's History of the City of Rome.

1 2 3

Livy, vii.
v.

G ; Varr. 18.

iv.

32.

Pliny, XV.

1^4

Walks
'
.

in Rome
vacuum

et

duellis

et ordinem Quirinuni clausit, Eectum, evagauti fraena licentiae Injecit.' Ilorate,Od. iv. 15.

Janum

christian church afterwards dedicated to S. a temple was three arches, whose Dionysius. Besides this temple there were sites are Forum.

The

unknown,
'
.

dedicated
Haec Prodocet
. .

to Janus
suramus

in

different parts of the

Janus
'

ab imo

Horace, Ep. I. The central arch

'
. .
.

i. 54.

was

the resort of brokers

oninis res fracta est.'
mea

and

money-lenders.^

Postquam

Janiuu Hor.

Ad

medium

Sat. II. iii.18.

the left of the Forum, looking towards the Coliseum, stood the Tabernae Argentariae, the silversmiths' shops,and beyond them in front of S. Adriano the Tabernae were Novae, where probably Virginiawas stabbed by her father with a butcher's knife,which he had seized from one of the stalls, saying, This,my child,is the only he to thee as free,' plunged it into her heart.^ Near this keep way also was the statue of Venus Cloacina.^ The front of the church of S. Adriano is a fragment of the Curia or Senate House, as it was reconstructed in the reignof Domitian. A little east of the church the site (now covered modern was by houses) of the Basilica of Aemilius Paulus, built with part of 1500 to his talents which Gaul to win him over Caesar had sent from of The site of famous Tullus basilica the the Curia occupied party. which the body of of steps down Hostilius,approached by the flight Servius Tullius was hurled by Tarquinius.
"
"

On

'

le savant

le conseil des anciens rois que reunit,pour la premiere fois sous un toit, montre Properce, avec un sentiment vrai des antiqnitesromaines, nous de la trompe tel qu'iletait dans I'origine, se rassemblant au son pastorale dans le peuple dans de la Suisse.' Ampere, certains petits cantons un pre, comme
'

La se

"

Hist. Rom.

ii.310.

The Curia was senators, their capable of containing six hundred in the time of the Gracchi. number each speaker It had no tribune in turn and spoke in his place. Here was the hall of assembly rose in which the fate of the world was decided.' The Curia was destroyed Around which it caught from the funeral pyre of Clodius. by fire, the Curia stood many who had rendered especial statues of Romans service to the state. The Curia Julia occupied the site of the Curia Hostilia in the earlypart of the reignof Augustus. Close by the old Curia was the Basilica Porcia,built by Cato the Censor, which was
"

'

1 2 3

ii.25. Cicero, de Off. Livy, iii.48.

Pliny,XV.

29.

Temple

of Julius

Caesar

125

Near this the base of likewise burnt down at the funeral of Clodius. the rostral column, Colonna Duilia, raised in honour of the admiral has been found.^ who defeated the Carthaginianfleet, Beyond this, the left, the remains of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, on are of the licentious erected by the flattery of the senate to the memory of wife Antoninus Pius, Empress Faustina the Elder, the faithless whom they elevated to the rank of a goddess. Her husband, dying before its completion, associated in her honours, and the inscripwas tion, the portico, is 'divo which still remains antonino et on with The fagade is adorned DIVAE s. c' EX. FAUSTINAE eight columns of cipollino,^ forty-three feet high, supporting a frieze with ornamented and candelabra. The marble steps and griffins walls di S. removed for the Fabbrica were as material coating of the Pietro in 1540. The effect of the temple is greatlyinjuredby the hideous Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda, built by the Koman apothecariesin 1 602, which encloses the cella of the ancient building, in and whose name, says Ampere, naively expresses the admiration which its builders held these remains.^ Some huge blocks of travertine this remains the of found Arch are temple recently opposite in honour of (builtB.C. 120 in the severest styleof republican times) the conqueror of Savoy. This arch, Q. Fabius Maximus Allobrogicus, the eastern limit of the Forum. Fornix Fabianus, marked the Temple of Almost opposite the Temple of Antoninus, near and the stood, on a lofty base, the small Castor, Capitol,'' facing with a (Aedes Divi Julii),surrounded Temple of Julius Caesar colonnade and surmounted statue of closelyplaced columns a by of the deified triumvir. This, built by Augustus 42 B.C., first temple in Kome dedicated to a mortal. which was
'

was

the

Fratribus assimilis, quos proxima templa teneutes Divtis ab excelsa Julius aede videt.' Ovid, Pont. animam
Fac

Ep.

ii.2,

'Hane Divus

jubar, ut

de corpore caeso raptam Capitolia nostra Forumque ab excelsa prospectet Julius aede.' Id., Metam. interea
semper

xv.

840.

erected on the spot Dion Cassius ^ narrates that this temple was It was adorned where the body of Julius was burnt. by Augustus battle of with the beaks of the vessels taken in the Actium, and He also placed here the hence obtained the name Julia. of Rostra had of of Caesar Venus Apelles, because picture Anadyomene descent claimed from that goddess. Here, in a.d. 14, the body of Augustus,being brought from Nola, where he died, was placed

1 Two the ascent to the be seen on reproductionsof a similar column may Pincii). 2 Marmor Carystiurafrom Euboea, the ' undosa Carystos of Statins {Sylv. 1, its layers like an onion V. 36), called cipoUinofrom cippola. 3 Ampere, Emp. ii.223. * iii. Vitruvins, 5 xlvii. IS.
'
"

126
upon from

Walks

in Rome

it a bier,while Tiberius pronounced a funeral oration over carried to the Campus Martins. the rostra, before it was The marble foundations of this temple and of that of Castor and Pollux in 1547, togetherwith burnt into lime or sold to stonecutters were the stone walls supporting their cella and colonnades. have been discovered Close to the Temple of Julius foundations which identified with the Arch from a of Augustus, known are scholium to the Aeneid, publishedby Cardinal Mai, to have been divi Jidi. It was built juxta aedem arch with three passages, an than the others,as in the arch at the outer piersbeing narrower

Orange.^
to turn line of the Via Sacra made The was sharply by the erection of the Temple of Caesar and other buildings. The earliest it was Via Sacra the scene of the treaty between so called because Tatius The repubKomulus and the Sabine was straight. king lican Via Sacra bent at the corner of the Vicus Tuscus to the southeast, the templesof Castor and Vesta and the Regia, a line skirting the which shortest,and to which it is evident that the popuwas lation returned after the fall of the empire. The imperial Via and the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Faustina was Sacra, between wide street, with side-walks, ornamented a handsome tion by a populain of them elaborate of honoraiy statues, some shrines, placed of the young the shrine in honour of which Emperor Gordian is to an Septimius Severus, example. Pedestals with inscriptions and Fabius Titianus (prefect Antoninus Pius, Claudius, Caracalla, found in the excavations of Rome of 1882.^ a.d. 339) were
" "

Pacis of Vespasian, the site of in the Forum On the left, was down his Temple of Peace, burnt in the time of Commodus. the great museum under This temple was of Rome the empire, candlestick and other treasures and contained the seven-branched well all the works of art which had from as as Jerusalem,^ brought which been collected in the palace of Nero, and removed were hither by Vespasian. A statue of the Nile, with children playing the sightsin the Temple round it,is mentioned by Pliny as among "^ of Peace ; a fragment of its precinct wall still exists, built of with a doorway formed in travertine massive blocks of peperino, under a flat arch. and Damian the remains of SS. Cosmo In front of the church of a Temple of Romulus, son of Maxentius (formerly called the to Temple of Remus, then of the Penates) have been excavated cella of the temple was round the old level. The occupied by Its fagade was Felix IV. (A.D.527) as a vestibule to his church. their old of which two occupy ornamented by columns of cipollino, Urban taken VIII. ; of the fourth by pedestals. One was away door with its porphyry The bronze only the pedestal remains. level columns, which had been raised by Felix IV, to the modern
See F. M. Nichols in the Athen-aeuni,April 28, 1888. See the Letters of Rudolfo Lanciani in the Athenaetim, June 3 Josephus, vii. 37. "* Pliny, XXX vi. 7.
2 1

10, 1882.

Basilica

of Constantine

127

The to its old site in 1880. lowered of the cliurcli, was richly taken from an earlier building. decorated cornice w^as apparently of a Memorial remains On the other side of the Via Sacra are the to the Emperor Gordian Shrine raised by the peopleof Tarsus to the less which praise gives Younger, but with an inscription the the most than 'the the town to excellent, largest, emperor Valerius this Near of these the handsomest, provinces.' metropolis from the Velia, in he removed Publicola had a house, to which
"

deference
'

to the wishes

of the Roman

people.

tl'effroi Le sentiment que la demeui-e ffodale des Valerius causait,etait pareil le dii niuyen Koniains celui (luinspiiiiient aux age les tours des barons, que n'attendit deniolir. Valerius h;\tait de le tli-'s otait se niaitre, pas l)eui)le, ([uil C'est le et il vint habiter au pied de la Velia. a cette qu'on se iK"rtj\t extrtiniito, et la premiere concession premier triomphe des plebdiens sur Taristocratie romaine ii. 274. de cette aristocratic.' Ampere, Hist. Rom.
I
"

Close
were

to

this

daughter of
hence

portion of the Via Sacra stood a statue of Valeria, the honours of the virginCloelia Publicola, by whom

branch of the Via Sacra turned to the left from towards the sacellum of the goddess Strenia in the Carinae. A little farther three gigantic arches, being all that are on 320 remains of the magnificent Basilica of Constantine, which was feet in length and 235 feet in width. It was begun by Maxentius, and finished by Constantine.^ The existing ruins are only those of of the aisles of the basilica. There traces of an entrance one are towards the Coliseum. The roof was supportedby eightCorinthian of w^hich here till the time of Paul V., columns, one, remaining removed was by him to the piazza of S. Maria Maggiore,where it of Constantine is remarkable stillstands. The building as the last which bears the impressof the grandeur of ancient Roman genius. Traces of religious seen paintings, by Nibby in its eastern apse, show that the building used for christian purposes. was On the right, either side of the entrance on to the Palatine, were two 1547 ancient found in the Arch of near placed pedestals, SeptimiusSeverus. That on the rightbelonged to an equestrian of Constanti^is, statue erected by Neraetius Cepealis, prefectof the Maxentius. On the city,A.D. 353, in honour of the victory over left-hand pedestal the Suovetaurilia is sculptured, with a gratulatory conto Constantius and Galerius. inscription I"esides those which we have noticed, there is mention in classical authors of many other buildings and statues which were once crowded into the narrow has been described. space which The modern of Campo Vaccino, by which the Forum name was recently known, is supposed by some antiquaries to be derived from Vitruvius Vacca, who once had a house there.

disputed. A

' La guerre habitants aux Palatin. Les habitants de Privernum. Leur Palatin ; c'^tait un homme
. . .

de Privernum rattache i\ une localite du (Pii"erno) de Fondi avaient fait cause les habitants commune avec chef, Vitruvius Vacca, poss^dait une maison sur le considerable dans son h Rome. lis pays et m6me

Aur.

Victor. Caes. 40, 26.

128

Walks

in Rome
Vacca, qui
pour y etre mort a ; sa

demanderent et obtinrent Privernum fiit pris, et Vitruvius grace. conduit a Rome, enfermo dans la prison Mamertine s'yetait refiigie, garde jusqu'au retour du consul, et alors battu de verges et mis maison du Palatin fut rasee, et le lieu ou elle avait ete garda le nom Vacca.' Ampere, Hist. Rovi. iii.17.
"

de Pres

de

But the name will seem to those who were singularly appropriate familiar with the groups of meek-faced of the Campagna, oxen which used always to be seen in shade under the trees the lying of the picturesqueForum of the last generation," or drinkingat its

water-troughs.
' "

Eomanoque

Foro

et lautis mugire Carinis."

Ce vers m'a toujours profondement frappe, lorsque je traversais le Forum, du betail); je voyais en Vaccino (le champ effet presque aujourd'hui Campo toujours a son extremite des boiufs couches an pied du Palatin. Virgile,se de son ancienne reportant de la Rome d'Evandre, ne trouvait temps a la Rome d'image plus frappante du changement produit par les siecles,que la pas Eh bien, d'un troupeau de boeufs dans le lieu destine a etre le Forum. presence le joiu'devait venir on ce qui etait pour Virgile un passe lointain et presque devait etre de incroyable se reproduirait dans la suite des ages ; le Forum lieu agreste,ses magnificences s'en aller et les boeufs y revenir. nouveau un moins J'aimais a les contempler a travers vieilles que les quelques colonnes souvenirs qu'ilsme retra9aient,reprenant possession de ce sol d'oii les avait la gloire,Ciceron, Cesar, et ou la plus chasses la liberty, devait les ramener la destruction de I'empireromain grande vicissitude de I'histoire, par les barbares. Ce que Virgiletrouvait si etrange dans le pass^ n'etonne plus dans le present ; les boeufs mugissent au Forum et y ruminent ;"ils aujourd'hui,de s'y couchent s'iln'etait rien ari'ive.' Ampere, Hist. et comme meme qu'au temps d'Evandre
'
"

'

Rom.

i. 211. In many a heap the ground if Ruin in a frantic mood Had done its utmost. Here and there appears, As left to show his handiwork, not ours, An idle column, a half-buried arch,
'

Heaves,

as

wall of some great temple. It was once, And long, the centre of their Universe, The Forum whence a mandate, eagle-winged,
"

Went

to the ends every

of the earth.

Let
be

us

descend

Slowly. At

lost, The very dust we tread stirs as with life. And not a breath but from the ground sends grandeur. Something of human
may

step much

up

all is changed ; and here, as in the wild, Now The day is silent, dreary as the night ; and his herd. None the herdsman save stirring, Savage alike ; or they that would explore. Discuss and learnedly ; or they that come who have crossed the earth) (And there are many That they may give the hours to meditation. And wander, often saying to themselves, !"'' "This was the Roman Forum

Rogers' Italy.'
and throwing a into the Forum, the light fast fading away The soil has risen from of ruin. rubbish at the scene over than they used to do, least fifteen feet,so that no wonder the hills look lower There it was of at the first. one scene having been never very considerable of the Capitoline Temple, which foundation-stones desolation,from the massy erected in honour of Phocas, laid by Tarquinius the Proud, to a singlepillar were ^^^lat the fragments of pillars longed bein the fifth century, the Eastern emperor, I think that matters little. I know but care we can never to, perhaps ;
'

'^

We

kindred

descended soberness

S. Martina
ih"L

129

it wjis a temple of Jupiter Stator or the Basilica Julia, but one "miini knows that one is on the Kfoinid of the Forum, under the Capitol, the place where the tribes assenibletl and the orators 8|M)ke: the scene, in short,of all the internal strugglesof the Roman people.'"Arnold's Journal.

of Phocas, and looked down into the excavated confusion where a of pillars, arches, pavements, and shattered blocks and shafts" the crumbs of various ruins dropped from the devourinc maw of Time" stand, or lie,at the base of the Capitoline Hill. That renowned hillock (for it is little more) now The ponderous rose abruptly above them. with which the hillside is built up, is as old as Rome and kwks masomy, itself, while to endure the world retains any substance or permanence. likely It once sustained the Capitt)l, and bears now the mediaeval up the great pile which builders raised on the antitjuefoundation, and that still loftier tower, which looks abroad ujmhi a larger jKige of deei"er historic interest than any other scene can sh(m'. On the sjime of Roman other structures will doubtless jKnlestal nuisonry
simee,
'

"JTliey passed the solitaryeohnnn

To

and
to

arise, and vanish like ephemeral things. a siH?ctatoron the six)t, it is remarkable that the events of Roman history, of Roman life itself, which ceeded sucapi"ear not so distant as the Gothic ages
them. We the Roman stand

in the Forum, or on the height of the Capitol, and seem We forgetthat a chasm at hand. extends between it and ourselves, in which lie all those dark, rude, unlettered around centuries, the l)irthtime of Christianity, well as the a^je of chivalry and romance, as the feudal system, and the infancy of a better civilisation than that of Rome. Or, if we remember these mediaeval times, they look farther off than the Augustan Tl\(i rejuion and literature survives, creates age. be, that the old Roman may for us an intimacy with the classic ages which we have no means of forming with the subsequent ones. The Italian climate, moreover, robs age of its reverence, and makes it look than it is. Not the Coliseum, nor the tombs of the Appian Way, nor the nearer in the Forum, nor any other Ronmn oldest pillar ruin, l)e it as dilapidated as it ever give the impression of venerable antiquity which may, we gather, along with the ivy, from the grey walls of an English abbey or castle. And yet brick and the former, had fallen ages we every stone, which pick up among l"efore the foundation of the latter was begun.'" Haiothome.
see

ei"ochclose

'

A Rome, vous marchez les pierres qui out 6t^ les dieux de C^sar et de sur Pomp"^e : vous consid^rez la mine de ces grands ouvrages, dont la vieillesse est et vous encore vous belle, prom^nerez tons les joiu-s parmi les histoires et les fables. II n'y a que Rome la vie soit agreable,on ou le corps trouve ses et I'esprit les siens, plaisii-s Ton est i la source ovi est des belles choses. Rome n'etes plus barbares : elle vous cause a appris la civility et la religion. que vous II est certain (jue je ne monte jamais au Palatin ni au Capitole que je n'y et qu'il vienne d'autres i"ens^es change d'esprit, ordinaires. ne me que les miennes Cet air m'inspire (luelque chose de grand et de genoreux que je n'avais point auparavant : si je rove deux heures au bord du Tibre,je suis aussi savant que si j avals etudi6 huit jours.'"fiateoc.
... ...

'

Before leavingthe Forum from its classical to its turn must we mediaeval of the very interesting remains, and examine group churches which have sprunu: "P amid its ruins. Almost some Prisons, surmounted opposite the Mamertine by a handdome, is the Church of S. Martina, which contains the original model, bequeathed by the sculptor Thorwaldsen, of his Copenhagen of Christ in the act of benediction. statue The opposite of Religion by Canova. transept contain.s a very inferior statue of the saint by Gucrini reposes beneath The figure the high altar, at S. Cecilia. The subterranean church beneath this building as is well worth An of adorned with statues visiting. ante-chapel four virginmartyrs leads to a beautiful chapel erected at the cost and from the designs of Pietro da Cortona, whose stands tomb
VOL. I. I

130
near

Walks
its entrance with
a

in Rome

In the centre of the by Bernini. round inner chapel,lamps are the nnagnifitent always burning it bronze altar which the shrine of S. Martina, and beneath covers the of discover tomb torch which the a by martyr's light a you can monk lets down through a hole. In the tribune is an ancient A side-chapel throne. contains the grave in which the body of the found saint,with three other martyrs, her companions, were virgin scriptio inin 1634 ; it is adorned with a fine bas-relief by Algardi. An of S. Agnese, commemorates the found in the Catacombs Christian Gaudentius, the supposed architect of the Coliseum, afterwards martyred in his own building. fine bust
' At the foot of the Capitolinehill, on the left hand as we descend from the Arathere stood in very ancient times a small chapel dedicated Coeli into the Foriini, of very early to S. Martina, a Ex)man virgin. The veneration paid to her was to assemble there on the first day accustomed date, and the Roman people were of the year. This observance and not very was, however, confined to the peojjle, with manner general till 1634 ; an era which connects her in rather an interesting about the history of art. In this year, as they were to repair her chapel, they in which into the foundations, a sarcophagus of terra-cotta, discovered,walled the body of a young was female, whose severed head reposed in a separate casket. These remains were naturally supposed to be those of the saint who had very been so long venerated hailed with the utmost that spot. The discovery was on sciences exultation, not by the people only, but by those who led the minds and conof the people. The pope himself. Urban VIII., composed hymns in her to rebuild her chm-ch. Barberini undertook praise ; and Cardinal Francesco the painter Pietro da Amongst those who shared the general enthusiasm, was at the time, who very earnestlydedicated himself and Cortona, who was at Rome his powers to the glorification of S. Martina. had already been Her church to S. Luke, their patron given to the Academy of Painters, and consecrated erected at saint. It is now "San Luca and Santa Martina." Pietro da Cortona he died, endowed it with his cost the chapel of S. Martina, and, when his own the fortune. He whole painted for the altar-piecehis best picture, in which while the temple in which she saint is represented as triumphing over the idols, has been led to sacrifice is struck by lightning from heaven, and falls in ruins In a votive picture of S. Martina around her. kneeling at the feet of the Virgin ment and Child, she is represented as very young and lovely : near her, a horrid instruof torture, a two-pronged fork with barbed extremities,and the lictor's ' Jameson's Saered and Legendary Art.' the matter other death.' axe, signifying
"

The much

feast of the

solemnity.
of S. Martina

here saint is observed Then, in all the Koman

:

on

January 30th, with

the

churches, is sung

Hymn

celebri plaudite nomini, 'Martinae Cives Romulei, plaudite gloriae; Insignem meritis dicite virginem, Christi dicite martyrem. Haec
Inter

dum

conspicuis orta parentibus inter amabiles delicias,

Luxus illecebras,ditibus affluit domus. Faustae muneribus

despicienscommoda, dedicat manu Domino, et muniflca Christi pauperibus distribuens opes, Quaerit praemia coelitum.
Vitae
Se rerum

nobis abigas lubrica gaudia Tu, qui martyribus dexter ades, Deus Une et trine : tuis da famulis jubar, Quo Clemens aniraos beas. Amen.'

132

Walks
"

in Rome

the grave in which wards afterthe body of the pope was discovered still and a miraculous which is spring, flowing, said to have burst forth in answer that he might have to his prayers wherewithal A passage which to baptize his disciples. formerly led from hence to the Catacombs of S. Sebastian walled was up in the middle of the XIX. because c. by the paternal government, twenty lost In in this found the it. were was greater portion crypt persons ' of the famous Pianta Capitolina,' formerly preserved in the Farnese in the Capitol. In the upper church, on the right Palace, and now of the entrance from the circular vestibule into the body of the : building,is this inscription
"

hiding here

"

'L' imagine di Madonna Santissima che esiste all' altar magg. parl(ja S. passando eri solito Gregorio Papa dicendogli,"Percli^ piu noii mi saluti mentre II santo domando in salutarmi?" che celebrano a qiielli perdona e concesse dal purgatorio, cio6 per quell'anima quell'altare la liberazione dell' anima per la quale si celebra la messa.' i

Another
'

narrates inscription

"

et singulisvisitantibus ecclesiam istam omnibus de indulgentia, et in die stationis mille annos Cosmae et Damiani de indulgentia.' ejusdem ecclesiae idem Gregorius concessit decem millia annormu

Gregorius primus concessit

sanctorum

in this church are ' Una ampulla the many relics preserved ' ' Mariae MagdaDe Domo Sanctae lactis Beatae Mariae Virginis; Sancti Zachariae ! lenae ; ' De Domo prophetae Deserving of the most minute attention is the grand mosaic of Christ coming on the clouds of sunset.

Among
'

'

' and Damiano The mosaics of SS. Cosmo the finest of ancient I). 526-30) are (A. Christian Rome. Above the arch appear, on each side of the Lamb, four angels, of excellent but somewhat severe blems style; then follow various apocalyptic emwallingup having left but few traces of the twenty-four eldei-s. ; a modern A gold surface,dinuned by age, with little purple clouds,forms the background : though in Home, at least, at both an earlier and later date, a blue gi'ound dark-blue a gi"ound, with golden-edged prevailed. In the apsis itself, upon the colossal figure of Christ ; the right hand raised, either in clouds, is seen benediction or teaching, the left holding a written scroll ; above is the hand, of the First Person of the Trinity. Below, on each side, which is the emblem and Damiano, each with the apostles Peter and Paul are leading SS. Cosmo in their hands, towards the on the Saviour, followed crowns by S. Theodore of the church, on the left. This right, and by Pope Felix IV., the founder latter, unfortunately, is an entirelyrestored figure. Two palm-trees,sparkling of eternity, the emblem the phoenix,with with gold, above one of which appears each Farther side. close the composition on a star-shaped nimbus, below, indicated by water-plants,sparkling also with gold, is the river Jordan. The figureof Christ may be regarded as one of the most marvellous specimens of the art of the Middle to give Ages. Countenance, attitude, and drai"ery combine Him centuries after, is not an expression of quiet majesty, which, for many The drapery, especially, found again in equal beauty and freedom. is disposed in noble folds, and only in its somewhat t(JO ornate details is a further departure from the antique observable. The saints are not as yet arranged in stiff parallel somewhat forms, but are advancing forward, so that their figures appear and inanimate in distorted, while we already remark something constrained their step. The the usual ideal costume. SS. apostles Peter and Paul wear Cosmo and Damiano attired in the late Roman dress : violet mantles, in are

See

Percy'sJiomanism,

SS.
with gold stuff,

Cosmo

and

Damiano

133

the chief red embroideries of oriental barbaric effect. Otherwise in too abundant motives of the drapery are of great beauty, though somewhat folds. Tlie high lights are brought out by gold and other sparkling mat"^rial8, producing a gorgeous play of colour which relieves the figures vigorously from the dark-l"lue background. Altogether, a feeling for colour is here displayed, of which witli gold grounds give any idea. later mosaics Tlie heads, with the no and individual,though without exception of the jjrincipal figure,are animated particular depth of expression ; somewhat any elderly,also, in physiognomy, but still far removed from any Byzantine stiffness ; S. Peter has already the bald hair and dark head, and S. Paul the short brown beard, by which they were i afterwards Under this chief composition, on a gold groimd, is recognisable. the Ljtmb seen a hill,with the four rivers of Paradise, and the twelve upon of execution in the five or six The gi-eatcare is seen sheep on either hand. gradations of tints which tlie artist has adopted.'" A't/flfZer.

Damian, to whom of Christianity, two were Esculapii

their
art

SS. Cosmo

and

"First they were angel saved them; sea, but an and then into the fire, but the fire refused to burn thera ; then they less bound to crosses and stoned, but the stones either fell harmwere rebounded their executioners and killed them ; so then or on the proconsul Lycias,believing commanded to be sorcerers, them that they should SS. Cosmo be belieaded, and thus they died.' and Damian the patron saints of the Medici, and their gilt were statues were carried in state at the coronation of Leo X. (Giovanni de* Medici). Their fame is general in many parts of France, where their fete is celebrated ask for who fair children by a village ' their fairing of a toy or ginger-bread S. Come.' it their calling
"

from charity. thrown into the

is dedicated, the this church cised Arabian physicianswho exerDiocletian. under suffered They

that a certain man, in his leg, who was afflicted with a cancer at Rome, of SS. Cosmo and Damian perfoi-m his devotions in the church saints would be pleased to prayed most earnestly that these beneficent aid him. When he had prayed, a deep sleep fell upon he beheld Then him. S. Cosmo and S. Damian, who him carried a box of stood beside one ; and do to shall we ointments, and the other a sharp knife. And one said, "What And the other replied, replace this diseased leg when we have cut it off?" "There is a Moor who at S. Pietro in Vincoli ; let us has been buried just now take his leg for the purpose." So they l)rought the leg of the dead and man, with it they replaced the leg of the sick man celestial ; anointing it with doubted that he remained he almost so Mintiiient, whole. When he awoke wliotber it could l)e himself ; but his neighlwurs, seeing that he was healed, l(M)ked inU) the tomb of the Moor, and found that there had been an exchange of legs : and thus the truth of this great miracle was proved to all beholders.'" Jfrs. Jameson, from the Lcgenda Axirca.'
went to and he
'

'

It is related

Just

beyond the basilica of Constantine

Romana,
tower

stands

Francesca

which

is full of interest.

with the called which were of majolica. The the forerunners pottery ciotdc, church first built by S. Sylvester on was the site of the Temple of Venus and dedicated to the Virgin under the title of S. Maria Antica. Pope John VII. (705-8) built or restored an ' episcopium
1 There is no aureole round the heads of the saints. This emblem of glory, which belonged to AjmiIIoand the deified emperors, not bestowed the was upon martyrs of the Catacombs tillthe time of Constantine, and had not yet become imiversal.

is ornamented

of S. the Church teenth-cent Its beautiful thirdiscs of enamelled

134
super
successor.

Walks
ecclesiam The in the S. Mariae church was

in Rome
was

which antiquae,' rebuilt in

A,D.

872 by adjoining monastery during his pontificate. An ancient picture attributed to S. Luke, brought from Troy in 1100, the only objectin this church which was was preserved when the the fire in 1216, after which totallydestroyed by building was church, then called S. Maria Nuova, was restored by Honorius III. was kept at S. Adriano, and its During the restoration the picture the people, which was being brought back led to a contest among ended child Madonna 'What the a are by exclaiming, you doing? is already in her own herself thither church.' She had betaken knew how. none In the twelfth was century the church given to the Lateran Canons, in the fourteenth to the Olivetan monks ; under Eugenius IV. the latter extended their boundaries far that they included so the Coliseum, but their walls were in the succeedforced down ing and Paul Caesar II., pontificate. Gregory XI., Borgia were cardinals of S. Maria Novella. In 1440 the name was changed to that that of S. Francesca when de' saint, Francesca Komana, buried here. foundress the Order of of Her Ponziani, Oblates,was tomb in 1640 erected was by Donna Agata Pamfili, sister of Innocent It is from the designs of Bernini, X., herself an Oblate. and is rich in marbles. till1868. The figure not added was resided
After the death of Francesca, her body remained during a night and a day at the Ponziani Palace, the Oblates watching by turns over the beloved remains. had Francesca's recently borne traces of age and suffering, face, which became beautiful again as in the days of youth and prosperity ; and the as at her unearthly loveliness. and awe astonished bystanders gazed with wonder Many of them carried away particlesfrom her clothes,and employed them for who had been considered of several the cure beyond the possibility persons of recovery. In the course of the day the crowd augmented to a degree which to have alarmed the inhal)itauts of the palace. Battista Ponziani took measures at once to the church, and a procession of the regular and the l)odyremoved remains secular clergy escorted the venerated to Santa Maria Nuova, where they to be interred. were ' the occasion ; it was The popular feeling burst forth on no longer to be restrained. invoked Francesca was name was by the crowd, and her beloved of the Eternal heard in every street, in every piazza,in every corner City. It aloft by flew from to float in the air,to be borne to mouth, it seemed mouth had her walk to that of a whole seen the grateful enthusiasm people, who church l)y her mother's side in her holy childhood ; who had seen her kneel at that altar in the grave Ijeautyof womanhood, in the hour of Ijereavement, saint of and now in death carried thither in state,she the gentle,the humble sometimes called at her of the Trastevere, as she was Rome, the poor woman Romaiia.' desire.'" i/adj/ G. Fullerton's 'Lifeof S. Francesca own
'
. . .

fortified by his John VIII.,who

A chapel on the right of the church contains the monument of with his Cardinal Faith, Hope, Vulcani, 1322, supporting figure, and Charity sculptured in high relief below. Near the door is the tomb of Cardinal Adimari, 1432, who died here after an ineffectual In the left transept to the anti-popePedro mission da Luna. fine Perugino (removed 1867); in the right transept is the was a who tomb of Pope Gregory XL, the last Frenchman occupied the erected by the senate in papal throne, by Pietro Paolo Olivieri,

S. Francesca
1584 in

Bomana

135

the papal court to Rome his triumphal entry, with from induced to return, of Siena, by whose entreaties he was S. Catherine indicates the A breach in the walls walking before his mule. ruinous had fallen ; the chair of S. Peter Rome state into which is representedas floating back through the air, while an angel of Rome is carries the papal tiara and keys ; a metaphorical figure

gratitudefor his having restored Avignon. A bas-relief represents

coming
'

forth to welcome

the

Pope.

greatest part of the praise due to Gregory's return to Rome belongs to of Siena, wlio, with infinite courage, travelled to Avignon, and to dispel the evils which persuaded the pope to return, and l)y his presence of the absence of the popes. Tlius it is not to disgraced Italy,in conseiiuence be wondered at that those writers who the matter should rightly understand liave said that Catherine, the virgin of Siena,brought back to God the abandoned Ital. Sacra, vi. col. 45. apostolicalchair upon her shoulders.' Ughelli,
S. Catherine
"

The

blackened Near in the wall marks Pope Gregory's tomb some shown holes made knees of S. Peter, when are as by the (gigantic) he knelt to pray that Simon Magus might be dropped by the demons he had invoked in the air,which to support him he is said tliis spot. Removed also to the same story is told. The which collected in the two looked holes was water as an upon and it in when the road, groups of infirm important remedy, lay it around of the shower. on a gathered approach persons
to
'

have done to show his power on the church is a paving-stone of which

^^^len the

error

the his putative God, on ascend aloft into heaven, that he would headlong to the earth, and though this occurrence wonderful in itself, it was was not wonderfiri under the circumstances, for it was Peter who did it, Paul who he who bears with him the keys of heaven it was did it,he who was caught up into the third heaven.'" 5?. Cyrilof Jerusalem.
as

pair of men, thither, who

appearance. the servants

Peter

of Simon was spreading farther and farther,the illustrious and it by going Paul, the rulers of the Church, arrested

suddenly exhibited

dead, Simon,

For when Simon of God cast him

declared

...

Simon and thus ascend On the day to the heavenly abodes. promised to fly, and throwing himself from the rock, agreed upon, he went to the Capitoline hill, began his ascent. Then Peter, standing in the midst, said, O Lord Jesus, show him that bis arts are in vain." the Hardly had the words been uttered, when of became had made wings which Simon use entangled, and he fell. His thigh to l)ehealed ; and some was time afterwards, the unhappy man fractured,never died at Aretia, whither he had retired after his discomfiture.'" " Ai)%broseA
"

'

'There

can a

be

no

doubt

that

there

existed

in the

first century

Simon,

to divine authority and supernatural powers ; who, for a followers ; who st(K"d in a certain relation to Christianity; and many who have held some less similar to those entertained or opinions more may by the most famous heretics of the early ages, the Gnostics. Irenaeus calls this " Simon the father of all heretics. All those," he says, "who in any way corrupt the preaching of the Church, are the truth, or mar disciples and successors of Simon, the Samaritan himself forth as a God, and magician." Simon gave carried alM)ut with him a beautiful woman named he represented Helena, whom the first conception of his as that is, of the divine" mind, the symbol and of that portion of spiiituality manifestation which had become entangled in

Samarium, time, had

pretender

"

nvAtUir.'" Jameson's

'Sacred

Art,' p.

204.

The
1

vault of the tribune

is covered Magus

with

mosaics.
in Waterworth's

and

See the whole Borne.

questionof

Simon

discussed

England

136

Walks

in Rome

' The restored tribune mosaics (a.d. of Nicholas I.) 858-87,during the pontificate close the list of Roman Byzantine works. By their time it had become apparent that such figures as the art of the day was alone able to achieve could have no possible relation to each other, and therefore no longer constitute a comjwsition ; the artists accordingly separated the Madonna the throne, and the on four saints with uplifted hands, by p-aceful arcades. The ground is gold, the nimbuses Tlie faces consist only of feeble lines blue. the cheeks are only red blotches ; the folds merely dark strokes ; nevertheless a certain flow and fulness in the forms, and the character of a few accessories (for instance,the exchange of a crown the Virgin's head to for the invariable seem Byzantine veil), upon indicate that we have not so much to do here with the decline of Byzantine art, and probably Prankish as with a northern influence.'" E'^ti/^er.
"

attached to this church the abode of Tasso was his first visit to Kome. during Behind S. Francesca Romana, and facing the Coliseum, on the which considered is to be the Velia, an sometimes ridge outlying the remains generallyknown as the Temple are part of the Palatine, of Venus and Rome (Venus Felix and Roraa Aeterna), also called called by objectors the 'Portico Templum Urbis (now sometimes of Livia'), is the correct which, if this name originally one, was the Hadrian the of rival Forum to Trajan, planned by Emperor built upon erected site a by the architect Apollodorus. It was Little Golden atrium of Nero's House. the previouslyoccupied by
convent

The

remains

of all the temples in Rome, the largest standing of this,

a

facing the Coliseum, and another in the cloisters the adjoining convent (these,perhaps, being restorations by Maxentius, c. 307, after a fire had destroyed most of the building littered of Hadrian), but the surroundinggrassy height is positively
except
of with the
some

cella

formed which once fragments of the grey granite columns of the 200 ov building: (400 feet), peribolus, grand portico by

mark Romana its facade marble S. Francesca steps near the Forum. towards The pedestals partly exist which supported A large mass of Venus colossal statues in the apses. and Rome of Corinthian cornice remains the cella facing the Coliseum. near in use remained in Rome. This was the last pagan which temple and entire in 391, remained till It was only closed by Theodosius 625, when Pope Honorius carried off the bronze tiles of its roof to

S. Peter's.
'

Ac sacram viam mugitibus, ante resonare Romae Delubrum sanguine et ipsa ; colitur nam habetur. More ceu deae, nomenque loci, numen, Atque Urbis Venerisque pari se culmine tolluut Templa, simul geminis adolentur thura deabus.' Prudentius contr. Symm.

v.

214.

and Rome, Hadrian to construct his magnificent Temple of Venus to the and showed it with proud satisfaction design of his own remarked with a sneer, architect Apollodorus. The creator of the Trajan column that the deities, thrust their heads through if they rose from their seats,must the ceiling. The Emperor, we are assured, could not forgive this banter ; but can we hardly take to the letter the statement that he put his critic to death for
'

\Mien

about
a

produced

ch. it.'"Merivale,

Ixvi.

mentioned In front of this temple stood the bronze statue of Cloelia, and the bronze and sixth t he century) elephants by Livy Seneca, (till

Arch
mentioned tlie remains

of Titus

137

the Coliseum may still be seen of the foundation preparedby Hadrian for the Colossal This statue was in bronze by Zenodorus. Statue of Nero, executed it that in A.D. 75, might face the twice moved, first by Vespasian, ^ of his amphitheatre, whose cliief entrance plan had been already likeness of it was time" At the same a striking laid out. though

by Cassiodorus.

Nearer

with rays that it might surrounded its head was it second In its Apollo. position is described by Martial :
Nero"
'

represent

Hie ubi sidereus propius videt astra colossus Et crcscunt media pepmata celsa via, Invidiosa feri radialwiit atria regis, Unaque jam tota stabat in urbe domus.' De Sped. ii.

few a (with the aid of forty-two elephants) yards farther north, by Hadrian, when he built his Temple of Venus and Rome. Pliny describes the colossus as 110, Dion Cassius as 100 It
was

again moved

feet
'

high.

the colossus of Decrianus to remove Hadrian employed an architect named to have Nero, the face of which had been altered into a Sol. He does not seem Luna.' of statue erect a the of to companion accomplished design Apollodorus Merivale, ch. Ixvi.
"

the Near the church of S. Francesca, the Via Sacra passes under is the most in its restored condition, Arch of Titus, which, even Its Christian of the kind remaining in Rome. beautiful monument from its having been erected by the senate to interest is unrivalled, the taking of Jerusalem, and from its bas-reliefs of commemorate of the Jewish candlestick and other treasures the seven-branched of the Seven called the Arch Temple. In mediaeval times it was the candlestick, of Candlesticks (Septemlucernarum)from the bas-relief that the fantastic concerning which Gregorovius remarks likeness of it that exact carved it not was an figures prove upon The bas-reliefs are from Jerusalem. now came greatly in in state shown their but a drawing of mutilated, they are perfect Giuliano di Sangallo. On the frieze is the sacred river Jordan, as in a very borne bier. The was on a arch, which an aged man, ruinous condition,had been engrafted in the Middle Ages into a till the called Turris Cartularia, and so it remained fortress tower the of the For of remains sake the library security present century. removed and other preciousMSS. were and archives of Pope Damasus formed in the X. c.^ The tower hither from the Lateran originally to the vast fortress of the powerful Frangipani family, the entrance included the Coliseum and a great part of the Palatine and which and II. dwelt in Coelian hills ; here, above the gate. Pope Urban of Giovanni 1093,under the protection Frangipani. The arch was
that

which

1 2

Dion

Cassius,Ixvi.
a

15.
were

remains ; it is supposed that they trace of these collections now destroyed by the imperial faction in 1244, out of spite and revenge towards Pope and his faithful supporters, the Frangipani. Not

the

138

Walks

in Rome

repairedby
earliest
'

Pius VII., who replaced in travertine the lost marble here are the portionsat the top and sides. The composite capitals

examples known.

Standing beneath the Arch of Titus, and amid so much ancient dust, it is difficult to forbear the commonplaces of enthusiasm, on which of tourists hundreds have already insisted. Over the half-worn pavement and beneath this arch, the Roman armies had in their outward trodden march, to fight battles a world's width Returning victorious,with royal captives and inestimable spoil, away. a Roman triumph, that most gorgeous pageant of earthly pride, has streamed and flaunted in hundredfold succession over and through these same flagstones, few allusions this yet stalwart archway. It is politic, to such however, to make have is it wise to suggest how Cicero's feet may a past ; nor stepped on yonder wont to stroll near was stone, or how Horace by, making his footsteps chime with the measure of the ode that was The very ghosts of ringing in his mind. that massive and statelyepoch have so much that the density, people of to-day the thinner of the two, and stand more seem ghostlikeby the arches and columns, lettingthe rich sculpture be discerned through their ill-compacted substance.'" Haiothome.
passed on to the Arch of Titus. Amongst the reliefs there is a figureof a bearing the golden candlestick from the Temple at Jerusalem, as one of the His visible and local temple to the spoilsof the triumph. Yet He who abandoned hands of the heathen for the sins of His nominal worshippers, has taken to Him and has gotten Him His great power, as glory by destroying the idols of Rome He had done the idols of Babylon ; and the golden candlestick and shall burns burn with an everlasting light,while the enemies of His holy name, Babylon, of sin in every land, which the eagles of His wrath will R":)me,or the carcass surely find out, perish for ever from before Him.'" Arnold's Journal.
man
'

We

'Tlie Jewish trophies are sculptured in bas-relief on the inside of the arch is another beneath the vaulting. Opposite to these bas-relief representing In the centre Titus in the quadriga, the reins borne by the goddess Roma. of the arch Titus is borne to heaven by an eagle. It may be conjectured that these to his glory were pleted ornaments designed after the death of Vespasian, and comat after his own. These witnesses to the truth of historyare scanned and the Forum the Coliseum this day by Christians passing to and fro between ; and at this day the Jew refuses to walk ])eneath them, and creeps stealthily ))y under averted.' the side,with downcast Merivale, ' Romans eyes or countenance the Empire,' vii. 250.
. . .
"

On the inner compartment the desolation of a city. On

of Titus is sculptured, in deep relief, side,the walls of the Temple, splitby the fury of conflagrations, The accompaniments of a hang tottering in the act of ruin. and virginsand children and old men town taken by assault,matrons gathered and the rapine and licence of a l)arbarous and into groups, enraged soldieryare The foreground is occupied by a procession of the imaged in the distance. and the table of the holy candlestick victors,bearing in their profane hands On of the eternal worship of the Jews. shewbread, and the sacred instruments of this sad picture,Titus is representedstanding the opposite side,the reverse with laurel aiui surrounded in a chariot drawn l)ythe by four horses, crowned of his triumphant army, and the magistrates, and priests, numbers tumultuous Behind and generals, and philosophers, dragged in chains beside his wheels. him stands a Victory eagle-winged. The arch is now mouldering into ruins,and the imagery almost erased by the a haliitaof The Flavian amphitheatre has l)ecome generations. fifty apse of whose The power tion for owls. possession it was once the type, and of whose Rome is no and a memory. the emblem, is become a dream departure it is now than Jerusalem.' more Shelley.
'

of the Arch

one

'

"

Arch of Titus reflects the greatest credit on the commission This edifices. of ancient VII. for the restoration Pius appointed by of a made the nucleus not only beautiful,but precious monument, had been castellated fort by the Frangipani family. Its masonry, however, hideous arch ; so that on embraced and held together, as well as crushed, the marble
'

Tlie restoration

of the

140
Farther up the
'

Walks

in Rome

lane a 'Via Crucis' leads to the Church of S. the seraphic doctor (Cardinal and Bishop of Buonaventura, raised from the Albano, ob. July 14, 1274),who in childhood was of death so point (1221) by the prayers of S. Francis, who was he came that he involuntarily exclaimed to life, surprised when 'O buona ventura' the name ('what a happy chance ') whence ^ by which he was afterwards known. The little church contains several good modern monuments. Beneath the altar is shown of the body of the Blessed Leonardo Porto-Maurizio (d.1751),who arranged the recentlydestroyedVia Crucis in the Coliseum, and who is much revered by the ultraKomanists for having prophesied the proclamation of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. The crucifix and the picture of the Madonna wiiich he carried with him in his missions are served prein niches on other either side of the tribune, and many relics of him of shown in his cell in the adjoining convent are Minor Franciscans. Entered is a lovelylittle through the convent
'
" "

there is garden, whence little fountain is shaded

grand
two

view

of the

Coliseum, and where

by

tall

palm

trees.

' Oswald du palais de convent de Bonaventure, bati sm- les mines se rendit au Neron : la,oii tant de crimes sont commis se sans moines, remords, de pauvres tourment^s par des scrupules de conscience,s'imposent des supplices cruels pour les plus l^geres fautes. "Nous esiwrons sculement," disait un de ces religieux, "qu'a I'inHtant dcla mcrrt nos pechrs n'auront pas excede nos penitences."Lord Nelvil,en entrant dans ce convent, heurta contre une trappe, et il en demanda I'usage. " Cest par la qu'on nmis enterre,"dit I'un des plus jeimes religieux, la maladie Les air avait dej^ frapp6. du Midi du mauvais habitants que Ton s'etonne d'y trouver des institutions qui la craignant beauconp la ni(jrt, rappellent h ce point ; mais il est dans la natiu-e d'aimer h, se livrer a I'idee de tristesse, II y a comme enivrement menie un qui fait i que Ton redoute. I'ame le bien de la remplir tout entiere. Un anti(iuesarcophage d'un jeune enfant sert de fontaine k ce convent. Le beau est se vante palmier dont Rome le seul arbre du jardin de ces moines.'" Madame de Stacl,' Corinne.'

The Arch of Titus is spoken of as being ' in summa Via Sacra,'as the street was called which led from the southern gate of Rome to the Capitol, and by which the victorious generals passed in their the the of to Jupiter. Between triumphant processions Temple this of of Arch Titus and the Coliseum, the ancient pavement famous road, composed of allowed to remain till 1879. his favourite walk :
'

huge polygonal blocks of lava, was Here we imagine Horace taking may
est mos, totus in illis.' Sat. i. 9.

Ibam forte Via Sacra, sicut mens Nescio quid meditans nugarum,

It appears the day :

to
'

have

been

the

favourite

resort

of the

flaneursof

Videsne, Sacram
Cum Ut
ora

metiente

te Viam

bis trium ulnanun vertat hue et hue

toga,
euntium
'
"

Liberrima

indignatio?

Horace, Epod.

4.

1 S. Buonaventura is perhaps best known to the existing Christian the author of the beautiful hymn, ' Eecordare sanctae crucis.'

world

as

Arch
Via Sacra to the frequently The
In this
was

of Constantine

141

bordered originally which might purchases the Via

was

especial part of
'

with shops. Ovid alludes there in his time. be made the market for fruit and honey : ^

rami pondere nutant ; bene dives ager, dum Adferat in calatlio rustica dona puer. Riire subnrbano poteristibi dicere niissa, Ilia vel in Sacra sint licet enipta Via.' Ovid, Art. Aman.
Diim

ii. '263.

cone

of the basin and the brick At the foot of the hill are the remains for called Meta of a fountain Sudans, erected by Domitian at.^ to the spectaclesof the Coliseum, to drink those who came Seneca, who lived in this neighbourhood,complains ^ of the noise who blew his trumpet close to this made which was by a showman fountain. the Via Triumphalisleads to the Via Appia,passing On the right, the The lower bas-reliefs upon the Arch of Constantine. under deeds of crude and the to refer which are ill-designed, arch, life of fine workmanship, illustrate the Con.stantine ; but the upper, to has led some of Trajan, which imagine that the arch was of in honour erected Trajan,and afterwards appropriated originally from an arch of They were, however, removed by Constantine. ruins divi the Via existed Nova on arcus Trajani (whose Trajan arch. ill 1430"*), and were by Constantine for his own appropriated
' '
"

"

' de triomphe de Trajan les statues de prisonniers Constantin arc a enlevtS a un du sien. Ce vol a t^topnni au seizifeme siecle, daces que Ton voit au sonnnet car, dans ce qui semble un de folie, acces Lorenzino, le bizarre assassin d'Alexandre I'arche Constantin, de Medicis, a d^capite toutes les statues qui surmontaient nioins une, la seule dont la tete soit antique. Heureusenient dans les a on de ces statues de captifs et ailleurs, bon nombre barbares avec le musses, k Rome le pantalon et le bonnet, souvent les mains dans nieme costume, c'est-t\-dire liees, attitude de soumission de sombre avec une une quelquefois expression morne, avait la no))lesse de ne pas humilier les vaincus Herte ; car I'art romain ; il ne les representaitpoint k genoux, foules aux pieds par leurs vainqueurs ; on ne donnait aspect qu'on cut pu rendre bideux ; on les plagait pas k leiu's traits 6tranges un le sommet la tete baiss^e, des arcs de triomphe, del)out, I'airtriste. sur '

"Summus

tristis captivus in arcu."

'

Ampere, Emp.
The arch was of its further

ii.169.

Clement VIII., who carried off one to finish a chapel at the eight Corinthian columns all Lateran. of were (marmor Numidigiallo-antico They formerly XII. re.'^toredthe arch with blocks taken from the cum). Clement and beautiful Temple of Neptune. But this is still the most striking of the Roman is and there arches, something touching in its inscription fundatori quietis.'

plundered by

'

"

est curieuse par le v^pie de 'L'insorii)tioii grav^e sur Tare de Constantin idc-es religieuses, en ce qui touche aux I'expression par I'ind^cision calcul6e des termes dont se servait un senat qui voulait "iviterde se compromettre dans un sens

1 2 3 *

Varro, De. Ii. Rust. i. 2, and iii.16. Lu(!io Faiuio, Contpendiodi Roma Antica, 1552.
See

Epist.Ivi. Poggio,De Vanitate Fortunae.

142
comme

Walks

in Rome

dans I'autre. L'inscriptionporte que cet arc a 6te d^did i Tempereur d'un tyran (on dit encore a delivre la rt^publique la r^publique !)par parce qu'il la grandeur de son anie et une de la Divinite {instinctu inspiration Divinitatis.) Ce monument, qui c61ebre le triomphe de Constantin, ne proclame done pas le triomphe du christianisme. eiicore nettement Comment s'en 6tonner, quand les monnaies de cet empereur on du Christ sur voit d'un cote le monogramme et de I'autre I'effigie de Rome, qui etait une divinitt^ pour les paiens?' Ampere, Emp. ii. 355.
. .
"

The importance of this arch rests not on its sculptured panels or medallionsfrom which from older structures, the arch has received spoilstaken at random of Aesop's crow the nickname {lacornacchia di Esopo)," hut on the inscription each side of the attic. The dedicated this engraved on S.P.Q.R. have triumphal arch to Constantine, because instinctu divinitatis (by the will of God) and l)yhis own virtue,he has liberated the country from the tyrant (Maxentius) and his faction" containing two memorable words, the first proclaiming officially of the true God in the face of imperial Rome.'" the name Lanciani.

'

We

now

turn

to This

the
vast

Amphitheatre.
'

Coliseum, originallycalled the Flavian was begun in A.D. 72, upon the building
:

site of the reservoir of Nero

Hie ubi conspicui venerabilis amphitheatrl erant.' Erigitur moles, stagna Neronis

Martial,De Sped. Eji.ii.5.

of arches. far as the third row after his return from the conquest It is said that 12,000 captive Jews were employed ill this work, as the Hebrews in building the Pyramids of Egypt, and that the external walls alone cost a sum equal to 17,000,000 The francs. material is travertine lapis Tiburtinus. It consists the first Doric, the second of four stories Ionic, the third and The existing to a rebuilding fourth Corinthian. upper story belongs Alexander Severus and Gordian under III. after a fire caused by and is composed in great measure of fragments taken from lightning, of the other buildingsclumsily fitted together. The circumference is width 1790 its is its feet, 525, its externally length G20, ellipse height 157. The entrance for the emperor was between two arches Here where there are there is no cornice. facing the Esquiline, similar On of stucco decoration. remains the oppositeside was a from the Palatine. Towards entrance S. Gregorio has been discovered in which the subterranean the Emperor Commodus was passage The the holes visible all over numerous near being assassinated. in to Middle exterior of the building made extract the were Ages, of great value. time The at that was the iron cramps, arena surrounded the wall to a sufficiently by high spectators protect who were introduced by subterranean from the wild beasts, passages The the side towards closed by huge gates, from the Coelian. honour the contained of reserved for the places Emperor podium and his family,the Senate, and the Vestal virgins. The places for The Emperor His work was of Jerusalem.

Vespasian built as completed by Titus

"

"

the

other

spectators, who
three first

were arranged in The (praecinctio).

by openings called vomitoria, stages (caveae),separated by a gallery

entered

steps; the second, for the The women, 10. soldiery,

stage, for knights and tribunes, had 24 common people, 16; the third, for the

by order

of the

emperor,

sat

apart from

The
the men, and of married

Coliseum

143

also divided. The and unmarried men were order show how particular jealouslyany epigrams privileged. The whole guarded the seats to which they wore At the top, building was capable of containing 87,000 persons. which of remains the consoles be the the seen on exterior,may Martial sustained the spectators from bo filled with water protectedfrom it
were

drawn the arena to shelter the velarium which over was couhl on occasions The arena the sun or rain. for the sake of naval combats ; the podium was which the wild beasts metal over a screen, by

to climb. has recentlybeen spoilt external beauty of the Coliseum by of the beautiful the cutting down of all the trees and destruction pomegranate gardens on the lower slope of the Esquiline,and the hideous and gigantichouses, erection in their place of the most below them. destroyingall the etfect of the grand building of the architect with to the is known as certainty Nothing

unable

The

tradition of the church (founded on an inscription now preserved in the crypt of S. Martina) ascribes it to the suffered on Gaudentius, a Christian martyr, who afterwards

Coliseum, though

^ spot.

the great work of the Coliseum 'The name of the architect to whom was The ancients seem themselves down to have entrusted has not come to us. of little interest ; nor, in fact, do they generally as a matter regarded this name illustrious buildings. The reason to specify the authorship of their most care is obvious. almost The forms of ancient art in this department were wholly executed they were conventional, and the limits of design within which gave for the display of originalt^aste and specialcharacter. It is only little room the taste of the architect has in i"eriods of eclecticism and renaissance,when wider scope, and may lead the eye instead of following it,that interest attaches to his personal merit. Thus it is that the Coliseum, the most conspicuous type of Koman which divides the admiration of strangers the monument civilisation, is nameless in modern Rome and parentless,while every with S. Peter's itself, stage in the construction of the great Christian temple, the creation of a modern revival,is appropriated with jealous care to its specialclaimants. ' The dedication of the Coliseum afforded to Titus an opportunity for a display A battle of cranes of magnittcence hitherto unrivalled. with dwarfs senting reprefor a the pigmies was a fanciful novelty, and might afford diversion whom of gladiators, moment combats women were included, among ; there were allowed to mingle in the fray ; and the capacity of was though no nol)le matron animals in its tlie vast edifice was tested by the slaughter of five thousand of water circuit. The show crowned with the immission into the arena, was an"l with a sea-fight representing the contests of the Corinthians and Corcyreans, When all was rehited by Thucydides. to weep, seen over, Titus himself was jR-rhaps from fatigue,possibly from vexation and disgust ; but his tears were now was interpreted as a presentiment of his death, which impending, and it is now probable that he was already sufferingfrom a decline of bodily strength. He lamented effeminatelythe premature decease he too surelyanticipated, that he did not deserve to die. and, Itjokingwistfullyat the lieavens, exclaimed He expired on the 13th September 81, not having quite completed his fortieth yvar.'"Merivale, ch. Ix.
...
.

...

This
Sic

found inscription,

in the catacomb

of S.

Agnese, runs

Prennatus Gaudenti letare es more Promisit ista dat Kristus omnia Civitas ubi gloriaetue autori tibi Qui alium paravit theatrQ in celo.

praemia

servas

Vespasiane dive

Tliis apparently addresses alternatelyVespasian, not clear in what order the lines sliould be read.

Gaudentius,and

Rome.

It is

144
'

Walks
gave
a

in Rome

in honour of liis birthday, with the a series of entertainments hundred lions and as many tliousand lionesses. a slaughter beasts,including One magical scene the representation of forests,when the whole was arena became shrubs, and flowers ; to complete which illusion planted with livingtrees, from to open, and sent forth wild animals the ground was made yawning clefts, with )"ushes. instantlyre-covered 'One the taste for gladiatorial to which imagine the frantic excess may from combats the preventive law carried in Rome, of Augustus that was combat without permission of the senate ; that gladiators should no more than once a that more praetors should not give these spectacles more year; at the same not engage time ; and that neither knights than sixtycouples should The gladiatorswere senators contend in the arena. should ever nor classified of fighting which Thus were they imitated. according to the national manner combatants distinguished the Gothic, Dacian, Thracian, and Samnite ; the with the left hand, Retiarii,who entangled their opponents in nets thrown with tridents in the right ; the Sectitores,whose defending themselves special who skill was in pursuit ; the Laqueatores, threw slingsagainst their adversaries ; with a short sword in each hand the Dimachae, armed ; the Iloplomachi, armed at all points ; the Myninllones, so called from the figure of a fish at the crest of the Gallic helmet fought at funeral games they wore ; ; the Bustuarii, who the Bestiarii, who only assailed animals fought on horseback, ; other classes who called Andabates by two horses, Esse; and those combating in chariots drawn darii. Gladiators were originallyslaves or prisoners of war ; but the armies in later epochs were who divided into comthe Roman contended pulsory on arena of slaves or conand voluntary comliatants, the former alone composed demned in their art, The latter went through a laborious education criminals. supported at the public cost,and instructed by masters called Lanistae, resident of Imperial To in colleges called Ludi. the eternal disgrace of the morals sometimes fought in the arena, without more Rome, it is recorded that women in this character by modesty than hired gladiators. The exhibition of himself Commodus was a degradation of the imperial dignity,perhaps more infamous, notions,than the theatrical performances of Nero.' according to ancient Roman in Home.' "Hemans' 'Story of Monuments

Hadrian

of

Commodus (A.D. 180-82) frequently fought in the a nd wild and killed both gladiators Coliseum himself, beasts,calling himself Hercules, dressed in a lion's skin,with his hair sprinkled with gold-dust. end when, in 403 A.D., an to an combats The gladiatorial came named Telemachus oriental monk was so horrified at them, that he and besought the spectators to rushed into the midst of the arena him them but instead of to him, they stoned renounce listening ; said The of S. that first martyrdom here was to death. Ignatius the been the child especiallyblessed to have by our Saviour who sent and of of John the was Polycarp companion disciple he was here from Antioch, where brought into the bishop. When who and he knelt down are exclaimed, Romans arena present, know that I have not been brought into this place for an}' crime, merit I may the fruition of the but in order that by this means made I have been prisoner. I am gloryof God, for love of whom be ground by the teeth of the the grain of the field, and must as The lions were for His table.' I bread fit lions,that may become then let loose,and devoured him, except the largerbones,which the
The

Emperor

"

"

"

'

Christians

collected

during the night.^

carried his on

round

the papal rule, his relics, Under preserved at S. Clemente, were the Coliseum, with of sacerdotal circmnstance pomp, every 1.

February festival,

The

Coliseum

145

of heart and 'It is related of Ipnatius that he prew up in such innocence that to him it was pranted to hear the angels sing; hence, when purity of life, he became bishop of Antioch, lie introduced into the service of his church the practiceof singing the praisesof God in responses, as he had heard the choirs His story and fate are so well attested, and i"f angels answering each other. of well been to has me a as cause t hat it surprise so .always sublimely alFecting, of hiiu.'" Jameson's 'Sacred Art,'693. as regret to find so few representations
. .

shot down 115 Christians were Soon after the death of Ignatius, Under licre with arrows. Hadrian, 218 A.D., a patriciannamed and liis two sons, were first exposed Placid us, his wife Theophista, these refused to touch them, here to the wild beasts, but when roasted and beneath. bull in brazen shut a by a firelighted were up rich citizens of In 253, Abdon and Sennen, two Babylon, were beasts refused and but four the as two lions here bears, to oxposed killed the of swords to attack them, they were by gladiators.In 259 A.D., Sempronius, Olympius, Theodulus, and Exuperia were of the Coliseum, before the statue of the burnt at the entrance In 272 A.D., S. Prisca was Sun. vainly exposed here to a lion, to have her then starved for three days, then stretched on a rack and into then a flesh torn by iron hooks, furnace, put having beheaded. In 277 A.D., survived all these torments was finally S. Martina, another noble Roman lady,was exposed in vain to the beheaded S. Alexander in the Coliseum. beasts, and afterwards under Antoninus bishop of Ulyria, ; S. Potitus,168 ; S. Eleutherius, 284 SS. Vitus, of S. Hadrian a senator, under Maximus,son ; and ; also martyred here.^ and Modesta, under Domitian, were Crescentia,
"

"

hut plain,sober, honest truth, to say: so suggestive and 'It is no fiction, distinct is it at this hour : that, for a moment" actuallyin passing in" they who sands will, may have the whole great pile before them, as it used to be, with thouinto the arena, and such a whirl of strife, and of eager faces staringdown describe. Its solitude, and its dust going on there,as no language can bl"x"d, the stranger, the next awful beauty, and its utter desolation, strike upon in his life, never perhaps, will he be so ; and mometit, like a softened sorrow with his own moved and overcome by any sight,not immediately connected affections and afflictions. 'To see it crumbling there, an inch a year; its walls and arches overgrown with green, its corridors open to the day ; the long grass growing in its porches ; fruit : trees of yesterday springing up on its rugged parapets, and l"earing young built their nests chance produce of the seeds dropped there by the lurds who within its chinks and crannies ; to see its pit of fightfilled up with earth, and the peaceful cross and look planted in the centre ; to climb into its upper halls, down on ruin, ruin, ruin, all about it ; the triiimphal arches of Constantine, iSeptimiusSeverus, and Titus,the lUmian Forum, the Palace of the Caesars,the and fallen down gone ; is to see the ghost of old temples of the old religion, old city, haunting the very ground on which its people Rome, wicked, wonderful trod. It is the most impressive, the most stately,the most solemn, grand, sight conceivable. Never, in its bloodiest prime, can the majestic, mournful have sight of the giganticColiseum, full and running over with the lustiest life, look upon it now, a ruin. heart all who it must moved God move be as one thanked : a Txiin.'"Dickem.

The 1872

spot where the Christian martyrs suffered was marked and by a tall cross, devoutly kissed by the faithful,"
arena

till all

around the

of the Coliseum
1

were

the small

chapelsor

"

stations,'

See

Uemans'

Catholic

Italy.
K

VOL.

I.

146
used

Walks

in Rome

observed in the Via Crucis,which here at 4 p.m. every was a confraternityclothed in grey, with only the eyes Friday, when followed was visible, by a crowd of worshipperswho chaunted and prayed at each station in turn" a most picturesque and striking after which a Capuchin monk scene preached from a pulpiton the These often very striking, left of the arena. sermons were being and upon popular subjects delivered in a familiar style, of the day, the burlesque. but they also often bordered on
"

voulut aller au Colisee pour entendre le Capucin qui devait y precher air au pied de I'un des autels qui d^signent, dans I'interieur de I'enceinte, en plein de la Croix. Quel plus beau sujet pour Teloquence que ce qii'onappelle la route cette ar6ne les martyrs ont succede ou aux que I'aspect de ce monument, gladiateurs ! Mais il ne faut rien esperer a cet egard du pauvre Capucin, qui ne vie. de I'histoire des hommes connait Neanmoins, si Ton parvient que sa propre sent mauvais se emu on t^couter son a ne sermon, par les divers objets dont pas sont de la confrerie des Camaldules La plupart de ses auditeurs il est entourd. ; d'une espece de robe grise qui ils se revetent,pendant les exercices religieux, la tete et tout le corps, et ne laisse que deux petitesouverenti^rement couvre tures pour les yeux ; c'est ainsi que les ombres pourraient etre representees. Ces hommes, ainsi caches sous leurs vetements, se prosternent la face contre terre,et le pr6dicateur se jette k genoux criant miserien se frappent la poitrine. Quand se ! le peuple qui I'environne et rt^petece corde et pitie jette aussi a genoux, meme qui va se perdre sous les vieux portiques du Golisee. II est imiwssible cri, alors luie emotion de ne pas eprouver profondement religieuse ; cet appel de la lame remue jusque dans son sanctuaire le douleur h la bonte, de la terre au ciel, de Sta'el. plus intime.' Madame
'

Oswald

"

The

pulpitof

Gavazzi, who
of March
In

the Coliseum was called the people to

1848.

used
arms

for the stormy sermons of from thence in the revolution

the cross and all 1872, Signer Kosa obtained leave to remove was the shrines in the Coliseum, which done, to the great tion indignaof the Roman people. The excavations made by Gregory XVI., and closed

again
been

on

account

plans had

made, which

then reopened. It has were boarded was level of the Coliseum originally only a movable floor, lions hundred which which slain the Commodus were by through of little interest, excavations are up by trap-doors. The sprang though they display the anatomy of the labyrinthine passages whicli underlie the whole of the arena, and the arrangements by could be supplied for the naval combats. These water which be inspected for long flooded, and cannot are frequently passages and of fever the which without excavations great danger ; together annihilated have the bare have laid them beauty of the Coliseum. of the of which remains scene exquisite Ampere wrote Nothing
"

of their unhealthiness, after careful still exist in the Barberini Library, since been affirmed that the ancient

monde de ruines ; tous les accidents est un Le Colosseum peuvent y que produire la lumiere, la v6g6tation, le temps, se trouvent 1{\. Rien n'est plus escaliers ecroules,ce lieiTe, ces brisds, ces impossible a dccrire que ces arceaux les grandes plantes, ces debris suspendus ; la couleur superbe de ce monument, debout, tout cela varie de mille manieres, selou le lignes de la partie encore le tableau, au milieu de I'arune oii les martyrs achever et I'ombre et pour ; jour
'

ont
ceux

verse

leur sang

se

dresse

une ne

immense pourra

croix

qui passent. Ampere. Jea"i-Jacywe" spectacle.'"

Non, rien

jamais donner

de bois (lue viennent baiser tous faible idee d'un pareil une

148
'

Walks
Arches
on

in Rome
it
were

arches

as

tliat Rome,

chief troi"hies of her line, build up all her triumphs in one Would dome. Her Coliseum stands ; the moon])eams shine As 't were its natural torches,for divine Should be the light which streams here, to illume The long-explored but stillexhaustless mine

Collectingthe

Of
'

Of contemplation ; and the azure gloom Italian night, where the deep skies an

assume

Hues which have words, and speak to ye of heaven, Moats o'er this vast and wondrous monument, forth its glory. There is given And shadows Unto the things of earth, which Time hath bent, A spirit's and where he hath leant feeling, His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power And magic in the ruined battlement, For which the palace of the present hour Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower.' Childe Uarold.
who form has not seen it. No one can idea of full moonlight in Rome any in the huge masses of lightand shadow, and is swallowed Every individual oljject visible. and principaloutlines remain Three days ago (Feb. 2, only the marked 1787) we made good use of a light and most beautiful night. Tlie Coliseum presents lives inside in a little It is closed at night ; a hermit a vision of beauty. church, and beggars roost amid the ruined vaults. They had lighted a fire on Tlie the bare ground, and a gentle breeze drove the smoke the arena. across walls above stood forth lower portion of the ruin was lost,while the enormous We this phenomenon. into the darkness. stood at the gates and gazed upon moved The shone moon through the high and bright. Gradually the smoke illuminated It chinks and apertures in the walls, and the moon it like a mist. ! Goethe. was an exquisitemoment
'
"

'

remained entire It is believed that the buildingof the Coliseum until the eighthcentury, and tiiat its ruin dates from the invasion of Kobert Guiscard, who destroj^edit to prevent its being used as a stronghold by the Romans. During the Middle Ages it served as a
and fortress,

became

the castle of the

to

great family of Frangipani,

his and II. (Papareschi) Pope refuge the in and afterwards family against the anti-pope Anacletus II., brothers and his Innocent III. same against (Conti) way protected the anti-pope Paschal with the Frangipani II. Constantly at war the Annibaldi, who were possesseda neighbouring fortress, and who here gave
Innocent

obtained from Gregory IX, a grant of half the Coliseum, which was rescinded by Innocent IV. During the absence of the popes at of the whole of the Coliseum, the Annibaldi Avignon got possession but it was taken away again in 1312, and placed in the hands of the in which used for bull-fights, (as after which it was municipality, described by Monaldeschi) nobles of high rank took part and lost their lives. In 1381 the senate made over part of the ruins to the
of the Lateran, to be used as a hospital, Canons and their occupation is still commemorated of the Chapter (our Saviour's by the arms head between two candelabra) sculptured in various parts of the their arts in the enclosure, used to practise building. Necromancers and Benvenuto he caused a in his Memoirs, describes how Cellini, fourteenth the tury cento devils. From with magician people the arena the Coliseum began to be looked upon as a stone-quarry, and

The

Coliseum

149

the palaces Farnese, Barberini, Venezia, with the Cancelleria,were built of materials plunderedfrom its walls. It is said that the first Cardinal Farnese, only extorted permissionfrom of its destroyers, he could reluctant" stone as his uncle, Paul III.,to quarry as much in twelve hours, and that he availed himself of this permission remove the workmen thousfind building. An to let loose four upon testifies that in 1452 Giovanni official document Foglia of Como Sixtns V. cart-loads of travertine. off 2522 to was permitted carry utilise the building by turning the arcades into XI. establishinga woollen manufactory, and Clement failed. but both happily (17CX)-21)by a manufactory of saltpetre, A restoration to set in. tide of the In the last' began century the of Carmelite monk, Angelo Paoli, represented iniquity allowing be desecrated, and to memories such consecrated holy a by spot endeavoured shops, and
to of the martyrs to the memory the arena XI. consecrated Clement of the archways the who had suffered there, and erected in one chapel of S. Maria della Pietii. The hermit appointedto take care caused Benedict XIV. to stabbed in 1742, which of this chapel was with bars and shut in the Coliseum gates. Under the six last a made sacrilege,nd they all contributed to popes destruction was strengthenand preserve the walls which remain ; but since the fall of the Papacy, the ruins have been cruelly injured by the them, in tearing out of all the shrubs and plants which adorned of the stones have given way than the eradication of which more As late as fifty would have fallen in five hundred years of time. that of an English was (like years ago, the interior of the Coliseum littered with of ruin, amid masses abbey) an uneven grassy space

and flourished.^ trees grew which large it is as it now is, In the gaunt, bare, ugly interior of the Coliseum difficult even to conjure up a recollection of the ruin so gloriously a picture. beautiful under the popes, where every turn was the Coliseum, connected with Among the ecclesiastical legends dors it is said that Gregory the Great presentedsome foreign ambassafor their relic from the handful earth with a of arena as a he their receiving the gift with disrespect, and upon sovereigns, those the soil. Pius V. flowed from blood when urged pressedit, who wished for relics to gather up the dust of the Coliseum, wet with the blood of the martyrs. di Porto Maurizio,' who is buried In 1744, the Blessed Leonardo crowds in S. Buenaventura, drew immense to the Coliseum by his found Benedict XIV. from to obtained permission preaching,and the Via di Gesii e Maria,'for whom of 'Amanti the confraternity in which 1872. established Crucis was was here, only destroyed In later times the ruins have been associated with the holy beggar, Benoit Joseph Labre (beatified by Pius IX. in ISGO and since in 1783, after a life spent in devotion. canonised), who died at Rome at night under accustomed to beg in the Coliseum, to sleep He was
'

1
'

work

on

the

Flora extraordinary S. Deakin.

of the Coliseum, now,

alas !

has extinct,

een

publishedby

150

Walks

in

Rome

its

arcades,
of de that of

and the

to
seven

pray

for churches

hours of de

at

its the

various Coliseum

shrines. S.
"

Nothing
Salvatore S.
in

remains

TeHure,
and the

Trasi,
SS.

de Abdon the

Insula,
and bodies

rota
at

Colisei,
the
saints

S. foot
were

James,
of the

Agatha,
of after

Sennen,
of those

Colossus

Sun,

where

exposed

martyrdom.
The
name

Coliseum

is
a

first

found of

in

the

writings

of

the

Venerable

Bede,

who

quotes

prophecy
stands falls the Rome the

Anglo-Saxon
Rome
Rome

pilgrims
shall shall
i

"

'

Wliile
When

Coliseum, Coliseum, falls,

the

stand fall
;

And

when

world.'

The of

name

was

probably
also

derived Colossus.
course

from

its

size

the

amphitheatre

Capua
Once
or

was

called in the

twice with

of

every

Roman

winter

the

Coliseum

is

illuminated

Bengal

lights.
parfois
un

'

Les de

strangers Bengale.
comme

se

donnent Cela ressemble illumination

I'amusement
pen radieux

d'^clairer
h
\m

le

Colisee

avec

des et
de
on

feux

trop

final
ou

de
les

melodrama,
lueurs

pent
lune.

pr^ferer Cependant
de

nn

soleil fois
me

douces

la

j'avone rougeatres,
avait
en ce

que
son

la

premiere
histoire
sa

que revint

le

Colisee

m'apparut
li la pensee.

ainsi,
Je

embras6 trouvais

feux

vivement
la

qu'il Emp.

moment

vraie

couleur,

couleur

du

sang.'"

Ampere,

ii.

156.

'

Quamdiu
cadet
et

stat

Colysaeus,

stat

et

Roma

qnando

cadet

Colysaeus,

cadet

et

Roma,

mundus.'

CHAPTER
THE
S.

V
AND THE GHETTO

VELABRUM

Teodoro

Arch S. Giorgio in Velabro" of Circus Maximus" in of S. Maria Cosmedin Arch Janus" Cloaca Maxima" Septimius of Rienzi" of Fortuna Virilis" House Ponte of Vesta" Temple "Temple of Marcell in Carcere" Sul)licio Theatre Portico S. Nicolo Rott.o" Ponte us" TarCenci" Fontana Jewish of Octavia"Pescheria" Synagogue" Palazzo S. Caterina del Funari" S. Maria Palazzo Caetani" tarughe" Palazzo Mattelof the Tor de' Specchi. Campitelli" Palazzo Margana- Convent
"

S. Anastasia"
Severus"

"

the rightof the Roman Fornm second THE called from Fienili,formerly the Vicus Tuscus,
turn
on so

is the Via

dei

the Etruscan

colony established there after the drying up of the marsh which history. During occupied that site in the earliest periods of Roman mus, to the Circus Maxithe empire, this street, leading from the Forum of its silk of the most Martial was one important. speaks that the fashionable mercers an : from inscriptionon a tomb we know there ; and the perfumers' shops were to be found tailors were of Vicus the name of such abundance as to give to part of the street
At its entrance the statue of the Etruscan was god, the which the of This the street was Vertumnus, quarter.^ by patron to the processions of the Circensian passed from the Forum games of the Verrine the Circus Maximus. In one Orations, an accusation

Thurarius.

brought by Cicero
avaricious
to motives

against the
he had
"

patrician Verres
even manner

was

that
not

from

paved
a

this street

"

used

for the processions

venture

use

of the Circus it himself.'^

in such

that he would

of a stagnant marsh, left by inundations valley was once the whole for in early times the Til)er, the river often overflowed and between the and the Palatine even hills, Capitoline valley All this reached which
same as

far

as

Romulus

the foot of the Quirinal, where disappeared, is supposed to have

once

the Goat's Pool, at formed part of the the games, this

Ovid, in describingthe swamp. speaks of the willows and rushes which and the marshy places which could one
bare feet
:
"

processionsof
covered not

ground,

pass

over

except with

1 2

See
'

Ampere,
a

Hist. Rom.

ii.289-92.
in

Quis

signo Vertunmi
tua

CircumJMaximum
quam tu 151 viam

commoneretur? exegisti,ut tu ipse ilia ire non

de avaritia

tensanmi

venit,quin is atque
i. 59.

unocjuofiue pompae

gradu ejusmodi

audeas.'"

/n

Verrcm,

152
'

Walks

in Rome

Qua Velabra solent in Circum ducere pompas, Nil praeter salices cassaque fuit. canna recliens conviva Saepe suburbanas per undas Cantat, et ad naiitas ebria verba jacit. conveniens diversis iste flgnris Nondum dens. ab averse Nomen ceperat amne Hie quoque Incus erat,juncis et arundine densus, adeunda Et pede velato non palus. Stagna recesserunt,et aquas sua ripa coercet ; ille nianet.' tamen tellus. Mos Siccaque nunc
Fast. vi. 405.

know the pricewhich was even paid for being ferried across * three Velabrum times as much one it was as a : quadrans, ^ The of the Cloaca the creation for boat at the Ripetta.' pays now Maxima had probably done much towards but some ments fragdraining, of the marsh remained to a late period. derived from of the Velabrum was According to Varro, the name We the of the boats which were employed to convey passengers derive the name from vela, from one hill to another.Others of transit, also in reference to the mode or, according to another the in stretched which to the reference across were idea, awnings in existence street to shelter the processions" was though the name because vehere,

long before
It was Romulus famous

thought of. any processionswere the water which bore the cradle of of the Velabrum the and Remus from the Tiber, and depositedit under of the Palatine. fiof-tree

the left of the Via dei Fienili (shut in by a railing, generally will be opened on appealingto the sacristan next The originof this building door) is the round Church of S. Teodoro. the is unknown. It used to be called the Temple of Romulus, on mentioned foundation famous bronze that the wolf, by very slight found near this in the Temple of Romulus, was Dionysius as existing spot. Dyer supposes that it may have been the Temple of Cybele ; this, however, was upon, and not under, the Palatine. Be they what Christian church dedicated a as by they may, the remains were mosaics in Adrian I. in the eighth century, and some well-preserved On

closed,but which

the tribune
'

are

of that time.

It is cui'ious to note in Ex)me how a modern superstitionhas its root in many ancient one, and how still cling to the old localities. tenaciously customs On the Capitoline hill the bronze she-wolf once was worshipped as the wooden Bambino and there the ancient is now. It stood in the Temple of Romulus, Romans used to carry children to be cured of their diseases by touching it. On the supposed site of the temple now stands the church dedicated to S. Teodore, must have changed and or Santo Toto, as he is called in R"me. Though names the temple has vanished, and church after church has here decayed and been rebuilt, the old superstition remains, and the common people at certain periods still bring their sick children to Santo Toto, that he may heal them with his ' touch.'" Story's Roha di Roma.' ^
an

ii.32. 44. See Ampere, Hist. Rom. iv. 8. " ' There of the is no still more of the amusements, doubt that many many in to be sources traced in this religiouspractices now pagan capital, popular may of the antiquity.The game of morra, played with the fingers(themicare digitis
v. 2

Varro,

Varro, De Ling. Lat. De Ling. Lat.

S. Anastasia

1^3

of the Palatine Hill, still under the shadow Farther the left, on S. ancient Church of Anastasia, completely is the large and beneath modernised in 1722 by Carlo Giniach, but containinf^, saint of the beautiful recliningon a statue the altar,a martyred

faggot.
and her fame as one of the preat her beautiful Greek name, NotwithstaiuliiiR of the Greek Calendar, S. Anastasia is representedas a noble Roman She was of Diocletian. persecuted lady, who perished duriiiK the persecution Christian the antl for faith,but, being her husl)and by family openly professing phantly, sustained by the ekxiuent exhortations of S. Chrysogonus, she passed triumto condemned of in the due time crown martyrdom, being receiving the flames. Chrysogonus was put to death with the sword and his body thrown
*

saints

into the
'

sea.

these two saints did not suffer in Rome, but According to the best authorities, in Rome that Anastasia, after her martyrdom, was in Illyria assured we are yet ; the Palatine buried by her friend ApoUina in the garden of her house under in dedicated There stood the church Hill and close to the Circus Maxinuis. of the principal stands. It was the fourth century, and there it now one in R"mie in the time of S. Jerome, who, according to ancient tradition, churches is still regarded with of the altars, which at celebrated peculiar nuiss one 'Sacred ami Lefjendary Art.' veneration.'" J'ftmesoji,

their to celebrate the custom for the mediaeval It was popes second of Christmas mass night in this church, for which reason Plato in that mass. commemorated S. Anastasia is still especially described (father of Pope John VII.,705-8),buried in this church, is in his epitaphas having restored, at his own expense, the staircase leading into the ancient Palace of the Caesars. of the learned Cardinal To the left of the high altar is the tomb owed who everythingto the kind Mai, by the sculptor Benzoni, interest with which this cardinal regarded him from The is It is thus translated remarkable. epitaph Wiseman : childhood.

by Cardinal

'I,who

my

life in wakeful

studies wore,

Bergamo's son, named Angelo, here lie. The empyreal robe and crimson hat I bore, Rome lliou giv'st gave, me, Christ,th' empyreal sky. Awaiting Tliee,long toil I could endm-e : So with Thee be my rest now, sweet, secure.'
del Divino Amore ancients); the rural feastingbefore the chapel of the Madonna for whole Whit suh dio the the and on night on the Monday ; dancing revelry the Lateran on Vigil of S. John (a scene piazza, riotous,grotesque, but not for the lottery; hanging the divining by dreams to obtain numbers licentious); from exvoto danger or recovery pictures in churches k) commemorate escapes from illness ; the offering of jewels, watches, weapons, "c., to the Madonna ; for particular days ; the adorning and dressing of sacred images, sometimes in processions(as used borne to ttgure when throwing flowers on the Madomia's l)e honoured the image or stone of Cybele) ; burning lightsbefore images on the under the notion of their honour to sacred picttn-es, highways ; paying siHJcial their eyes ; "jr to others, muler the idea of their supernatural having moved or origin" made without hands ; wearing etllgies (thus Sulla syml)olsas amulets hung round his neck) ; suspending wore, and used to invoke, a littlegolden Ai)ollo flowers to shrines and tombs
;

besides

other

uses, in themselves

blameless

and

to ])e regarded as the genuine reflex of what beautiful,nor, even if obje(-tional)le, is dogmatically taught by the Clunch. This enduring shadow thrown by pagan Cliristian Rome feature in the story of that power over is,however, a remarkable eminence in ruling and whose so intluencing was wonderfully sustained, nor destined to become extinct after empire had departed from the Seven Hills.' Ilemans, Monuments of Rome.'
"

'

154

Walks

in Rome
enter
some as

Through this church, also, we may chambers, which are of considerable

lower floor of the House the Caesars. The
near valle3^

subterraneous
the of

belonging to of Augustus (see later), in the Palace

interest

the Palatine and the Aventine, this, between was altar to the Dea called Vallis Murcia, from an originally Murcia (Venus),named from the myrtle trees which abounded here.^
It became

the site of the Circus Maximus, of which the last vestiges were destroyedin the time of Paul V. Its ground-plan can, however, be identified with the assistance of the small Circus of Maxentius the Via Appia, which exists. It was on still partially intended for chariot-races and horse-races,and is said to have been first instituted by Tarquinius Prisons after his conquest of the Latin town of Apiolae. It was a vast oblong,ending in a semicircle,and surrounded In three of ccivca. rows by collectively seats, termed the centre at each of the area the low wall called the spiria, was end of which were obelisk the metae the and in centre the or goals, columns Piazza del Popolo.^ Between the metae were supportingthe ova, egg-shaped balls, and delphinae,or dolphins, each seven in number, one of which was put up for each circuit in the race. made the stalls At the extremity of the Circus were for the horses and chariots, called carcercs. This, the square end
now

in the

of the

termed oppidum, from its external resemblance to a town with In the Circus Maximus, which walls and towers. used for hunting wild beasts, Julius Caesar made was a canal, and the racecalled Euripus,^ course, ten feet wide, between the seats to protect the spectators. The charioteers offered sacrifice to Census, that he might protect them in case of an upset. The Ludi Circenses were first established by Romulus, to attract his Sabine he in order that neighbours, might supply his city with wives. The games were generally at the expense of the aediles, and their cost was so obliged to sell his great that Caesar was

Circus,was

Tiburtine villa to defray those givenduring his aedileship. Perhaps the most those in the reign of were magnificentgames known transformed into an Carinus (Imp. A.D. 283), when the Circus was artificial forest, hundreds in which of wild beasts and birds were At time this Circus was one slaughtered. capable of containing

285,000 persons, all comfortably seated.

stood the the western extremity of the Circus Maximus vowed been and have Libera (said to by Temple of Ceres, Liber, the Dictator Aulus Postumius at the battle of the Lake Regillus), dedicated by the Consul Sp. Cassius, B.C. 492.
At

Quand la p^re de Cassius I'eut immole de ses propres mains k I'avidit*^patriun cienne, il fit don du p6cule de son flls" un fllsn'avait que son pecule comme esclave" ^ ce meme temple de C6res que SpuriusCassius avait consacre, et par
'

1 2

Varro, De Ling. Lat.

Under

Made

Constantius to flow with

29. v. 154 ; Pliny, Hist. Nat. xv. at the Lateran, was the obelisk,now wine under Heliogabalus...;,

also erected

there.

156

Walks

in Rome

in this forum, being in honour of L. Stertinius, erected B.C. 196, after his victories in Spain. The those now building which first attracts attention,among is the Arch of Janus, the Sabine god. It has four equal standing, sides and arches, turned to the four points of the compass, and .""mall intended for the reception of niches, probably forty-eight statues. Bas-reliefs on the inverted blocks employed in the lower have been removed from part of this edifice show that they mu"t resting earlier buildings. The quadripartite of the arch is intevaulting from its early construction. This was used a as probably trafficked in the portico for shelter or business for those who forum ; there were similar in ancient Rome. porticoes many On the left of the arches of Janus is a narrow alley, spanned by low brick arches, which leads first to the beautiful clear spring of the Aqua Argentina, which, according to some is tlie authorities,

place where of the Lake

Cantor

and

Pollux

watered

their horses after the battle

Regillus.
'

Then on rode those strange horsemen, slow and lordly pace, With And who saw their bearing none Diu'st ask their name or race. On rode they to the Fonini, While laurel Ijoughs and flowers From house-tops and from windows Fell on their crests in showers. Wlien

they drew nigh to Vesta, They vaulted down amain.

And washed their horses in the well That springs by Vesta's fane.
And

straightagain they mounted,

rode
a no

And And

to Vesta's

door

Then, like

blast,away
saw

they passed,
more.'

man

them

Macaulay's 'Lays.' closed by an arch of the celebrated Cloaca Maxima, fifth king of Rome, the famous drain formed by Tarquinius Priscus, to dry the marshy land of the Velabrum.
urbis loca circa Forum, planis locis hand facile evehebant siccat.' Livy, lib. i. c. 38.
'Inflma
ex
"

The

is alley

aliasqueinterjectascollibus eonvalles,quia
aquas, oloacis
a

fastigioin Tiberim

ductis

omnium urbis ' purgamentorum is still, to the Tiber, and after 2400 the Forum for years, used, during the latter part of its course, for the purpose with filled it was was which originallyintended, though Pliny it had already withstood the earthquakes, wonder that in his time hundred Strabo tells inundations, and accidents of seven years. tunnel of sufficient that the of the Cloaca was height to admit a the water at its laden with hay, but this probably supposes waggon who cleaned the out lowest. Cloaca, navigatedits whole Agrippa, its Twenty-five centuries old, it still answers length in a boat. The Cloaca extended from
'
"

receptaculum

"

S.

Giorgio in Velabro

157

of the Cloaca, composed of three perfectly.The mouth purpose till without of blocks of pepcrino, concentric cement, was courses recently visible on the river a little to the right of the Temple of Vesta, and, united with the little temple and an adjoining garden, formed of exquisitebeauty. Now a only a hole picturesque scene indicates the mouth in the hideous masonry which lines the river of the Cloaca, close to the modern
'

bridge.
rode des

(.'eslieux out

encore

un

air et
dans
ce

comnie

aiix

approches de la nuit

oHeur de marecage, une Quaud on fut i)lacee la scene coin desert de Rome ou

moments de son qu'au premier roi, on y retrouve, h. present mieux temps de Tite-Live,quehiue chose de I'impressionque ce lieu devait produire il a I'epoque oil,selon la vieille tradition,le berceau de y a vingt-cinq siocles, Romulus s'arrota dans les boues du Vtilabre, au pied du Palatin, pres de I'antre Lupercal. II faut s'ecarter un pen de cet endroit, qui etait au pied du versant occidental du Palatin,et faire queUjues pas h droite pour aller chercher les traces du Velabre, \h on les rues les ont pas entierement et les habitations modernes ne la Cloaca Maxima, on rencontre enfoncement un effacees. En s'avancjant vers elle-meme dedans humide vieille 6glise, et moisie, rappelle par son oil au luie San encore Giorgio in Velabro, que le Velabre a 6t6 la. On voit sourdre nom, vofite sombre et froide, les eaux I'alimentaient sous une tapisseede mousses, ([ui frissonnant dans la nuit. de scolopendres et de gi-andesherbes Alentour, tout a bord du marais, le furent au un aspect triste et abandonn^, abandonn*^ comnie les enfants dont on croit presque ouir dans le crepuscule suivant I'anticiue recit, les vagissements. L'imagination n'a pas de peine a se representer les arbres et le bord de cet enfoncement les plantes aquatiques qui croissaient sur que voilii, la louve de la legende se glissait et a travers lesquelles a cette heure pour venir Ces lieux sont assez silencieux pour boire i cette eau. frequentes et assez peu ils 6taient alors,alors qu'il dit comme n'y avait ici, qu'on se les figure comme Tite-Live, vrai cette fois,que des solitudes d6sertes: Vastae tune solitudines ])i"enners
er

ant.'"

Ampere,

IIM.

Rom.

i. 271.

The church with the picturesque campanile near the arch of Janus in the fourth century as the Basilica is S. Giorgio in Velabro, founded but rebuilt. architrave The above its repeatedly Sempronia, Rienzi affixed his famous that where announcing inscription, portico was Estate : '/n breve tempo yliRomani the return to the Good al lorn antico huono stato.' The church is seldom tomeranno open, station festival its and its in Lent. The on (Jan. 20), except during interior is in the basilica form, the long nave being lined by sixteen columns, of various sizes, and with strangely different capitals, showing that they have been plundered from ancient temples. The of the capitals is sharp and delicate. There is carving on some rather a handsome old Greek ancient baldacchino,'with an picture let into its front, over is preserved a the high altar. Beneath fragment of the banner of S. George. Some injured frescoes in the tribune existed here, and which were replace mosaics which once attributed is the Saviour, between to Giotto. In the centre the and witli S. Peter S. the martyr's palm one side, George, Virgin ; on and the warrior's banner the other,S. Sebastian, with an arrow. on Several fragmentsof carving and inscriptions built into the side are walls. The pictures relate to the saint of are poor and ugly which the church, S. George (the patron of England and Germany), the knight of Cappadocia,who delivered the Princess Cleodolinda from the dragon.
"

158

Walks

in Rome

' Among good specimens of thirteenth-centuiy architecture is the portico of S. Giorgio, with Ionic columns is a gothic and horizontal architrave,on which that in quaint Leonine the Cardinal inscription, us informing verse, (or Prior) Stephen, added this detail (probahly the campanile also)to the ancient churchof the thirteenth about the middle century, as is supposed, though no date is in given here ; and in the midst of an age so alien to classic influences, a work which classic feelingthus predominates is remarkable.'" 'Sacred Art. /iema/ts,

ture Partly hidden by the porticoof this church is the beautiful miniaArcus Arycntarius" erected a.d. 204 Arch of Septimius Severus
"

his wife Julia Pia, and his sons Caracalla and Geta emperor, who had their shops in the Forum by the silversmiths (argentarii) Boarium this very spot ('cujus loci qui invehent '). The part of on the dedication relatingto Geta (as in the larger arch of Septimius) obliterated after his murder, and the words Fortissimo feliwas in its The architecture and PRiNCiPi engraved cissiMOQUE place. which of sacrifice the a by imperialfamily, represents sculpture, part of art at this period. This arcli formed an prove the decadence Boarium.^ into the Forum from the Velabrum entrance Proceeding in a direct line from the arch of Janus, we reach the in Cosmedin, on the site of a temple of Ceres, Church of S. Maria dedicated by the consul Spurius Cassius,B.C. 493, and afterwards re-dedicated to Ceres and Proserpine,probably by Augustus, who had been initiated into the Eleusinian The mysteries in Greece. basilica in the form Adrian 782 in church built when the was I., by name Cosmedin, from the Greek Koafxos, is supposed to have been with which he adorned it. It was tended ingiven, from the ornaments from the East by the for the use Of the Greek exiles expelled iconoclasts under Constantine Copronimus, and derived the epithet of S. Maria in Scuola Greca, from a ' Schola attached to it (or office) relic of the Greek colony which Another existed for their benefit. of the adjoining street, Via della here is to be found in the name Greca. In the Middle Ages the whole bank of the river near this called Greca. was Kipa is divided The interior of this church is of great interest. The nave from the aisles by twelve ancient marble columns, of which two have and are evidently curious antique capitals, remains of the especially here. The choir existed is which at S. once raised, as temple The the o f Clement. joint offering many parishioners, pavement, is of splendidopus alcxandrinum are (1120); the ambones perfect; ancient basin of red there is a curious crypt ; the altar covers an and is shaded by a gothic canopy, supported by four Egyptian granite, it is a fine episcopalthrone, with lions said pillars granite ; behind ancient Greek pictureof the to have been used by S. Augustine an tabernacle of marble inlaid with mosaic by and a graceful Virgin, the the of also stick. Deodato Cosmati,who was sculptor paschal candleIn the sacristy is a very curious mosaic, one of the few relics old S. Peter's, A.d. 705. from the (There is another in preserved and historian of S. Marco at Florence.) Crescimbeni, the founder buried in is this of which the Arcadian 1728), church, (ob. Academy
to the
'
" "

Dionys.

i. 40.

S. Maxia
he
was a canon.

in Cosmedin

159

exhil)ited here crowned

is S. Valentine's Day the skull of S. Valentine with roses. is the strange and huge mask of stone In the portico the scarecrow sliow an inclination to lie a marble disk five of children who the opening of a drain,carved with feet in diameter, probably once of Bocca della the face of the god Oceanus, which gives the name believed that if a witness, Verita to the neighbouringpiazza. It was desired to jolace his hand in whose truthfulness was doubted, were the mouth of this mask, it would bite him if he were guiltyof perjury. An incredulous who once put in his hand, drew Englishman, it back with a cry : a scorpion had stung him !

On

"

"

"

'

mix

est une curieuse relique du moyen Cette Boiiche-de-Verit6 meule de moulin jugements de Dieu. Figurez-vous une
a

age.

Elle servait

qui ressemble, non

nez

mais au visage de la lune ; on y distinguedes yeux, un oil l'accus6 mettait la main bouche ouverte Cette pour pieter sernient. la tradition I'assure. J'y ai introduit bouche mordait les menteurs ; au moins etait un lieu de delices, dextre en disant que le Ghetto et je n'ai pas ete nia mordu.' About, ' lioum Contemporaine.' I)as
un

visage humain,

et une

"

On the other side of the ob. 1150.

'The church

is the portico

tomb

of Cardinal

Alfanus,

rebuilt under Calixtus II., about 1128 A.D., by Alfanus, was marble whose sepulchre stands in the atrium, with his Cliancellor, epitaph, along a cornice,giving him that most comprehensive title an h(jnest than half-faded paintings, a Madonna and Child, man," vir probus. Some more angels, and two mitred heads, on the wall behind the canopy, give importance to this Chancellor's tomb. Though now disfiguredexteriorly by a modern fac^ade in the worst this style,interiorlyby a waggon-vault roof and heavy pilasters, of Rome, and retains many of the mediaeval church is still one olden gems details : the classic colonnades, probably left in their originalplace since the time of Adrian I. ; and the fine campanile, one of the loftiest in Rome ; also the sculptured doorway, the rich intarsio pavement, the high altar,the marble and mosaic-inlaid ambones, the marble episcopalthrone, with supporting lions and decoration mosaic above, "c." all of the twelfth century. But we have to and (still the destruction of the ancient choir-screens, more regi-et inexcusable) to entirely conceal so the whitewashing of wall surfaces as the mediaeval adorned them, conformably to that once almost universal paintings which practiceof polychrome decoration in churches prescribed even by law under Charlemagne. C^iampini(see his valuable history of this basilica) mentions the of the atrium,and those, stillin their the columns iron rods for curtains between place, in the porch, with rings for suspending ; also a small chapel with at one end of the atrium, designed for those penitents who were liaintings, not allowed to worship within the sacred building" as such, an evidence of disciplinary observance, retained till the twelfth century. Over the portal are some so placed along the inner side of the lintel that many tiny bas-reliefs, might without seeing them : in the centre, a hand blessing,with the pass underneath two sheep, laterally Greek action,between ; the four evangelisticemblems, and two doves, each pecking out of a vase, and one perched upon a dragon (more to signifythe victory of the purified soul over like a lizard), mundane tions.'" temptaZ/e7na7i",ChriMian Art.'
Roman
" '

the apse of the church and the Circus Maxim Between us, the of Hercules and of the Temple remains the Ara Maxima Herculis discovered during the reigii (the oldest altar in Rome) were of Sixtus IV. but have been totally destroyed. stood the palace of Pope Gelasius II. (1118). Close to the church
,

160

Walks
church is an of the Medici

in Rome

Opposite the
erected

exquisitely proportioned fountain,

(now

and scrai:)ed modernised),and it tlie round beyond graceful temple which has long been familiarly called the Temple of Vesta, supposed by Canina to have been that of Mater Matuta, and by others to have been the Acmilian Temple of Hercules alluded to by Festus and mentioned in the tenth book of Livy. It is known to liave existed in the time of Vespasian. It is very small, the circumference of the peristyle being only 156 feet,and that of the cella 26 feet the height of the surrounding Corinthian columns (originally twenty in number) 32 feet. This of S. Stefano temple was firstdedicated as a church under the name delle Cairozze ; it now bears the name of S. Maria del Sole. The overhanging roof replacesan entablature like that on the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. This is not the Temple of Vest^a (which was situated near the church of S. Maria Liberatrice in the Forum) of which Horace
one
"

by

wrote

:
"

'

Vidimus flavum Tiberim, retortis Littore Etrusco violenter undis, Ire dejectum monumenta regis Templaque Vestae.' Carm. i. 2.

justiceromaine execute n'y guillotinait personne

de la Bouche-de- Verity, devant le petit temple de Vesta, que la meurtrier sur cent. un Quand j'anivai sur la place, on aussi belle que Junon, dont une ; mais six cuisinidres, de basque. Malheureusement dansaient la taraiitelle au son d'un tambour elles divin^rent ma et elles se mirent k polker centre la mesure.' qualited'^tranger, Aboxit.
'

C'est aupres

"

spot,perhaps the most beautiful in Rome tillthe change of and brutallydealt with than ruthlessly government, has been more
This road lined with the popular false rockwork A new other. leads hideous and the to the river rise a temple beyond bridge, great past The river views, where box-like buildings utterly abominable. backed and picture, a poem by huge gasworks and every turn was
any
"

simply revolting. by modern quays, are now till recently a little was Close to this" and overhanging what the is of Fortuna, commonly called Fortuna hollow way Temple but rebuilt during the built originally by Servius Tullius, Virilis, is and if the existingbuilding really republican,the most republic, in Rome. is It surrounded ancient by Doric temple remaining which of construction Vitruvius the i n style stigmatises pilasters of pseudo -peripteral at the name (with engaged columns under the ends and along the sides),28 feet high, cjothed with hard entablature adorned with figures of stucco, and supporting an had a great The Roman matrons children, oxen, candelabra, "c. who have the to this for was supposed goddess, regard power of from the of At their personal imperfections men. eyes concealing consecrated to the the close of the tenth century this temple was Virgin,but has since been bestowed upon S. Mary of Egypt. laden with rich but Hard by is a picturesqueend of building,
lined
"

Ponte
at iucongruous sculpture,
one

Rotto

101

of Pilate,'^ time called 'The House built from fragbut now known the House of Rienzi. as ments Chlefl}' it is a curious example of marble buildings and bas-reliefs, and wish to preserve them. of an earlyappreciation of antiquities It derives its present name from a long inscription over a doorway, which tallies with the bombastic 'The assumed Last of by epithets the Tribunes in his pompous letter of August 1, 1347, when, in his and emperors to appear before he summoned kings semi-madness, his judgment-seat. The inscription closes :
'
"

Nicolaus ab imis Pi'imus de primis magnus Erexit patnun decns ob renovare suorum. Stat patrisCrescens matrisque Theodora nomen. Hoc culnien clarnni caro de pignore gessit, Davidi tribnit qui pater exhibuit.'

that the house was fortified the inscription, by Nicholas, son of Crescentius and Theodora, who gave it to of the David, his son ; that the Crescentius alluded to was son famous patrician who headed the populace against Otho III. ; and have belonged to Cola that, three centuries later,the house may di Rienzi, a name which is, in fact,only popular language for Niccola Crescenzo. that Rienzi was It is, however, known not born in this house, but in a narrow S. Tommaso, street behind in the Rione his father, Lorenzo, kept an alia Regola, where inn, and his mother, Maddalena, gained her daily bread as a washerwoman the Crescenzi and watercarrier so were fallen! Near the back of this house was the earlyriver-gate called Porta Flumentana.2 Here is the entrance, near to an ugly modern suspension-bridge, the only remnant of the Ponte Rotto. On this site was the Pons Aemilius,begun 180 B.C. by M. Aemilius Lepidus and Marcus Fulvius and finished by P. Scipio Africanus and L. Mummius, the Nobilior, in called 142 sometimes the It Pons Lapideus,as B.C. was censors, the martyr Hence being then the only stone bridge in Rome.^ brothers Simplicius thrown into the Tiber under and Faustinus were Diocletian. Hence also the body of the Emperor Heliogabalus was thrown into the river. The bridge has been three times rebuilt by different popes, but two of its arches were carried away in finally inundation of 1 598. The recent remains an Ponte (often known as S. Maria, from the church of S. Maria Egiziaca), which only dated from the time of Julius III., the which two quarters of the Monte on and Trastevere long held their turbulent meetings, were highly and in artist Rome were picturesque, painted formerly by every : of a single arch they were wantonly destroyed with the exception in 1885-86. from believed,
"

It is

"

"

It
'

was

quarter. The
the
"

thus named Locanda

of

and used in the ancient passion-jilays enacted in this delhi Giaffa in the Via della Bocca della VeritA, recalls
\\\v.

House

Caiaphas.'
10. 21. 9. L

Cicero, Ad. Att. vii. 3; Liw,

Pint. Num.
OL. I.

162
Quand on a etabli Ponte-Rotto, eleve au
'

Walks
un

in Rome

filde fer,on lui a donne pour base les pilesdii en dn Pons Palatinus,qui fut dge sur les fondements acheve sous la censure de Scipion I'Africain. Scipion I'Africaln et un pont en fll de fer, voil^ de ces contrastes qu'on ne trouve qu'a Rome.' Amjiere, Emp. i. 209.

pont

nioyen

"

From this bridge was the exquisite view of the Isola Tiberina and its bridges, and hence, also, the so-called Temple of Vesta was the to great advantage, with the ancient quay of the Tiber seen of mouth the of Cloaca Maxima. Plutarch, and the koKt) a.KTT} Both these beautiful views have been utterly ruined since the Sardinian occupation.
"

considere le triplecintre de I'ouverture par laquelle on Quand du Ponte-Rotto Maxima le Tibre, on devant les yeux a un se dechargeait dans ment monuqui rappellebeaucoup de grandem* et beaucoup d'oppression. Ce monument extraordinaire est une II est a la fois la page importante de I'histoire romaine. de la puissance des rois etrusques et le signe avant-com-eur expression supreme de leui- chute. L'on croit voir Tare triomphal de la royaute par oii devait entrer la Cloaca la

'

r^publique.'Ampere,
"

Hist. Rom.

ii. 233.

of the Cloaca of the Circus the mouth Maximus be seen the left bank of the Tiber. Its course on may has been discovered the Palatine through the valley between and Coelian,and it now exceeds the Cloaca Maxima in its length, the size of its blocks, and the perfection of its masonry. Part of the ancient road,paved with basalt, which led to the Pons In the river Aemilius, may be seen near the house of Crescentius. this the favourite fish lupus used to be caught abundantly in near ancient times, inter duos pontes. In the bed of the river a little lower down might, till recently, be seen Here at low water massive some fragments of masonry. stood the Pons Sublicius, the oldest bridgein Rome,^ built by Ancus which Martius (639B.C.), and his two companions Horatius Codes on of Lars Porsenna, 'kept the bridge' against the Etruscan army till" ' Back darted Spurius Lai"tius ; Maxima
Hemiinius darted back
:

Beyond the Cloaca

And, as they passed, beneath their feet They felt the timbers crack. But when they turned their faces,
And

Saw

the farther shore on brave Horatius stand alone, They would have crossed once more.

But with a crash like thunder Fell every loosened beam. And, like a dam, the mighty wreck Lay right athwart the stream : And a long shout of triumph Rose from the walls of Rome, As to the highest turret-tops Was splashed the yellow foam.'"

3facaulay's Lays.'

'

The

name

construction
1

Sublicius ' came from of the bridge,which

used in the the wooden beams the Romans to cut it enabled

have thought that the remains Recent archaeologists bridgebuilt by the Emperor Probus c. 288 A.D.

might only be

those of

164
We
now

Walks

in Rome

reach (left) the Church It has of S. Nicolo in Carcere. of with in honour of the Aldoa mean an one front, inscription brandini family, and is only interesting as occupying the site of the three Temples of Juno Sospita,Spes, and another, perhaps of Apollo Medicus,^ which are believed to mark the site of the Forum Olitorium. The vaults beneath the church contain the massive substructions of these temples and fragments of their columns. built by to be that of Piety, The central temple is believed by some the in M. Acilius Glabrio, B.C. 165 (though Pliny says that duumvir, this temple was the site afterwards on occupied by the theatre of Marcellus), in fulfilment of a vow made by his father,a consul of the same the day of his defeating the forces of Antiochus on name, the Great, king of Syria, at Thermopylae. Others endeavour to identifyit with the temple built on the site of the Decemviral to keep up the recollection of the famous prisons, story,called the of condemned die 'Caritas Komana' of hunger in to woman a
"

by the milk of her own daughter. Pliny Valerius Maximus tell the story as of a mother only ; Festus ^ speaks of a father ; yet art and poetry have always followed the of this latter legend. A cell is shown, by torchlight, the scene as touching incident.
and
dim drear light is a dungeon, in whose do I gaze on ? Nothing. Look again ! Two forms on sight are slowly shadowed my Two insulated phantoms of the brain : It is not so ; I see them full and plain and fair. An old man, and a female young Fresh as a nursing mother, in whose vein what doth she there. The blood is nectar "but white and bare ? With her unman tied neck and bosom
'

prisonbeing nourished

There What

"

"

here youth offers to old age the food. milk of his own gift:" it is her sire. To whom she renders back the debt of blood Born with her birth. No, he shall not expire While in those warm and lovely veins the fire Of health and holy feelingcan provide Great Nature's Nile, whose deep stream rises higher Than Egypt's river ; from that gentle side ! Heaven's realm holds Drink, drink, and live,old man But The The starry fable of the milky-way Has not thy story's purity ; it is A constellation of a sweeter ray, in this And sacred Nature triumphs more Reverse of her decree than in the abyss ! Wliere sparkle distant worlds :" Oh, holiest nurse No drop of that clear stream its Avay shall miss To thy sire's heart, replenishing its source With life, as oiir freed souls rejoin the uuiverse.' CMlde

no

such

tide.

Harold.

A memorial of this story of a prison is the church It was S. Nicolo in Carcere.

"

preservedin the name probably owing to

of this

1 2

See Livy,xl. 51, where this temple is mentioned as 'post Spei ad Tiberim.' Plin. //. N. vii. 36 ; Val. Max. v. 4-7 ; Festus, p. 600.

Piazza

Montanara

165

legend that,
Cuiuvma
some

The the
A

the
'

the Temple of Piety, was placed the infants were exposed, in the hope that would them take pity upon and out of charity. nurse one found of a statue was in the tiny piazza in front of pedestal church in 1808, and is believed to have been that of the equestrian statue of M. Acilius Glabrio mentioned by Livy. tain, wide opening out of the street near this,with a pretty founis called the Piazza Montanara, and is one of the places where country people collect and wait for hire.

in

front

of

Lactaria,where

est le jour oh les paysans arrivent h Rome. Ceux qui cherchent c'est-^-dire bras vieuuent marchands de campagne, se louer aux fenniers. aux Ceux qui sont loues et qui travaillent hors des murs viennent leurs provisions. lis entrent faire leurs affaires et renouveler ville au petit en uu joiu", aprds avoir niarche une bonne partie de la nuit. Chaque famille amene ane, qui poite le bagage. Homnies, femnies, et enfants,poussant leur ane devant eux, s'"3tablissent dans un coin de la place Farn6se, ou de la place Montanara. Les boutiques voisines restent ouvertes jusqu'c\ midi, x^ar un privilegespecial. On va, on vient, on achete, on s'accroupit dans les coins pour compter les pieces de cuivre. se Cependant les anes reposent sur leurs quatre pieds au 1"ord des fontaines. Les femmes, vetues d'un corset en cuirasse,d'un tablier rouge, et d'une veste rayee, encadrent leiu- figure halee dans une draperie de linge tres l"lanc. EUes sont toutes h, peindre sans exception ; quand ce n'est pas pour la I)eaute de leurs traits, c'est pour I'elegance de leurs attitudes. Les hommes naive ont le long nianteau bleu de ciel et le chapeau pointu ; la-dessous leiu-s habits de travail font merveille,quoique roussis par le temps et couleur de perdrix. Le costume nest voit plus d'un mauteau amadou rapiece de pas uniforme ; on Le chapeau de paille l)leu vif ou de rouge garance. abonde en ete. La chaussure est tres capricieuse; Soulier,botte et sandale foulent successivement le pave. Les dechausses trouvent ici pr^s de grandes et profondes boutiques ou Ton vend des marchandises II y a des soiiliers de tout cuir et de tout age dans d'occasion. tresors de la chaussure des cothm-nes ces de Fan 500 de la ; on y trouverait bien. Je viens de voudiable qui essayait un republi(iueen cherchant pauvre Elles vont a ses jambes comme une une paire de bottes a revers. plume k I'oreille d'mi pore, et c'est plaisirde voir la grimace qu'ilfait chaque fois qu'ilpose le le fortifie par de bonnes pied a terre. Mais le marchand paroles: "Ne crains "tu souftriras pendant cinq ou six jours,et puis tu n'y penseras rien,"lui dit-il, debite des clous ti la livre : le chaland les enfonce plus." T'n autre marchand lui-m6me dans ses semelles ; il y a des bancs ad hoc. Le long des murs, cinq ou six chaises de pailleservent de boutique d autant de barbiers en plein vent. II coute un sou pour al)attre une barbe de huit jours. Le patient, barbouille en de ceil resigne ; le Ijarbier lui tire le nez, lui met les doigts savon, regarde le ciel dun dans la bouche, s'interrompt pour aiguiser le rasoir sur un cuir attache au dossier de la chaise,ou pour ecorner une galette noire qui pend au mur. dant Cepenest faite en un tour de main I'operation ; le ras6 se 16ve et sa place est prise. II pourrait aller se laver k la fontaine, mais il trouve plus simple de s'essuyerdu de sa nianche. revers 'Les 6crivains publics alternent avec les barbiers. On leur apporte les lettres Des qu'un qu'on a ree^ues; ils les lisent et font la reponse: total,trois sous. s'approche de la table pour dieter quelque chose, cinq ou six curieux se paysan rounisscTit ofiicieusement autour de lui pom- mieux entendre. II y a une certaine bonhomie daus cette indiscretion. Chacun donne un place son mot, chacun conseil: "Tudevrais dire ceci." "Non; dis plutot cela."" "Laissez-le parler," crie un troisi^me, il sait mieux ce qu'ilveut faire ecrire." (lue vous ' Quehiues voitures chargees de gaietiesd'orge et de mais circident au milieu de la foule. Un marchand de limonade, arme d'une pince de bois, ecrase les citrons daus les verres. L'homme sobre boit a la fontaine en faisant un aqueduc des bords de son chapeau. Le gourmet achete des viandes d'occasion devant un oil les re)"uts de cuisine se vendent petit (-tillage, Pom* un sou, le a la poignee. debitant remplit de b(t"ufhaehu et d'os de cotelettes un morceau de vieux journal ; une pinc6e de sel ajoutce sur le tout pare agi-6ablement la denree. L'acheteur mais sur la quantity; il prend au marchaude, non sur le prLx,qui est invariable, cle Icurs leniploi
"

Le dimanche

"

166
tas
sans

Walks

in Rome

le laisse faire ; car rien ne se conclut a Rome on marchander. ' Les ermites et les moines passent de groupe en groupe en quetant pour les S,mes du purgatoire. M'est avis que ces pauvres ouvriers font leur purgatoire en monde ce vaudrait mieux de I'argentque de leur en deleur donner ; et qu'il mander ; ils donnent pourtant, et sans se faire tirer I'oreille. ' histoire ; on fait cercle Quelquefois un beau parleur s'amuse a raconter une autour de lui,et a mesure J'ai vu de I'auditoire augmente il eleve la voix. que conteiu's ces qui avaient la physionomie bien fine et bien heureuse ; mais je ne sais rien de charmant I'attention de leur public. Les comme peintres du les disciples qu'ils quinzieme siecle ont du prendre a la place Montanara groupaient autour du Christ.'" About, ' Eoine Contemporaine.'

quelques bribes de viaude,et

little inn remains of a Temple Albergo della Catena of Apollo have been discovered. An opening on the left discloses the vast substructions of the Theatre of Marcellus. This huge edifice seems to have been projected by Julius Caesar, but he probably made little progress in it. It was actually erected by Augustus, and dedicated {c.13 B.C.)in of the young he married to his daughter nephew whom memory and intended his off by an but who cut Julia, was as successor, early death. The theatre was capable of containing20,000 spectators, and consisted of three tiers of arches ; but the upper range has disappeared, and the lower is very imperfect. Still it is a grand round remnant, and rises magnificentlyabove the paltryhouses which surit. The perfect proportions and Ionic columns Doric of its served as models to Palladio.
a
"
"

Under

offre exterieur du portique demi-circulaire qui enveloppait les gi-adins deux et de colonnes admiration doriques et etages d'arceaux ioniquesd'une beaute presque grecque. L'etage superieur,qui devait etre corinthien, a disparu. Les fornices, ou voutes du rez-de-chaussee,sont habitees mais plus honnetement, encore elles I'etaient dans I'antiquite, aujourd'hui comme des ferrailles. des belles colonnes Au-dessous vendent par de pauvres gens qui de I'enceinte exterieiu'e, dans lesquelles des maisons modernes on a construit sont pratiquees des fenetres,et a ces fenetres du theatre de Marcellus, on voit des pots a fleiu-s, ni plus ni moins de la rue Saint-Denis ; des qu'a une mansarde chemises la i-uine romaine, sm-montent sechent sur I'entablement; des cheminees et un grand tube se dessine a I'extremite. Dans les jeux celebres a I'occasion de la dedicace du theatre de Marcellus, on Dans vit pour la premiere fois un actum. ce tigre apprivoise, tigrim tnaiisuef tigrele peuple romaine pouvait contempler son image.' Ampere, Emp. i. 256.
mur encore
a

'

Le

notre

'

"

the Middle the fortress of the great Ages this theatre was who the rivals of the Frangipani, family of Pierleoni, occupied the the is commemorated Coliseum; their name by neighbouringstreet, Via Porta Leone. warfare in which they were The constant engaged terior inwith their neighbours did much whose to destroy the building, which reduced of became to a mass ruins,forming a hill, upon Baldassare of which the enPeruzzi (1526) built the Palazzo Savelli, trance, flanked in the street

In

by the two armorial bears of the family, may be seen which leads to the Ponte Quattro Capi. (Via Savelli)

' f eodale. Au dix-septieme siecle, les Savelli exerQaient encore une jurisdiction Leiu- tribunal, Corte Savella.i aussi regulierement constitue que pas im, s'appelait

1 Beatrice and Lucrezia thence to execution.

Cenci

were

imprisoned in

the Corte

and Savella,

led

Palazzo
lis avaient le droit d'aivacher
tons

Savelli
ans un

167
peine de
mort: droit

les

criniiiiela la

Les femmes absolue des papes. de j,n:"tce, droit rt-galicn reconnu par la monarchic de iftte illnstre faniille ne sort^iient point de leurs palais sinon dans nn carrosse aucun l)ien fenne. Les Orsini et les Colonna se vantaient (ine, pendant les siecles, dans lequel ils traite de paix n'avait 6te conclu entre les princes chi-etiens,

n'eussent

6te nonunativement

-46om". compris.'"

the family of Orsini -Gravina,who The princesof Orsini and of a.d. 1200. from a senator the throne on {principi Colonna, in their quality as attendants nobles. take precedenceof all other Roman assistential soglio), The descend

palace has

now

passed to

the Savelli of Marcellus, in which the Theatre will remember 'Nicolovius able family built a palace. My house is half of it. It has stood empty for a considertime, because the drive into the courtyard (the interior of the ancient the heaps of rubbish ; although theatre)rises like the slope of a mountain upon is affair. There the road has been cut in a zig-zag,it is still a break-neck of seventy-three a flight from another entrance the Piazza Montanara, whence story I have mentioned; the entrance-hall of which is steps leads up to the same the top of the carriage-way through the courtyard. The apartments on a level with of Ionic pillars, the colonnade in which shall live are those over we forming the third story of the ancient theatre,and some, on a level with them, These enclose which have V)een built out like wings on the rubbish of the ruins. is indeed small,only about eighty or a little (juadrangular garden, which very three I It contains ninety feet long, and scarcely so broad, but so delightful fountains" an al)undance of flowers : there are orange-treeson the wall between besides. to plant a vine them. We the windows, and jessamine under mean I mean to have From this story, you ascend fortysteps,or more, higher, where study, and there are most cheerful little rooms, from which you have a my own Mario and S. Peter's, prospect over the whole countiy beyond the Tiber, Monte It and can S. Pietro in Montorio, indeed almost as far as the Aventine. see over would, I think, be possible besides to erect a loggia upon the roof (forwhich I the Capitol, that we have a view over shall save from other things), may money Niebiihr's Forum, Palatine,Coliseum, and all the inhabited parts of the city.'" Letters.

arrive the theatre down a filthy street, we Li viae et Octaviae, of ruins of the Porticus of his wife and his sister (the erected by Augustus in honour unhappy wife of Antony), close to the theatre to which he had of the buildingis of her'son.^ The exact form given the name a known from the Pianta Capitolina that it was parallelogram, and surrounded enclosingthe by a double arcade of 270 columns, built and Juno of Stator Regina, by the Greek temples Jupiter

Following the wall of at the picturesque group

"

architects,Batrachos

and Sauraos.^ With regard to these temples, Pliny narrates a fact which reminds Nuova.^ The porters of S. Maria Madonna of the of the one story having carelesslycarried the statues of the gods to the wrong tion, temples, it was imagined that they had done so from divine inspirato remove and the people would not venture them, so that the statues always remained in the wrong temples,though their

surroundings were
The Portico
of

utterlyunsuitable. Octavia, built by Augustus, occupied the site of

1
2

Suet. Aug. 29 ; Ovid, Art. i. 69 and iii.391. See the account of the Basilica of S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura. 3 See Chap. IV., and Pliny, Hut. Nat. xxxvi. 4.

168
an

Walks
earlier
"

in Rome
"

portico the Porticus Metelli built by A. Caecilius Andriscus in Macedonia, in B.C. his triumph over 146. Temples of Jupiter Stator and Juno existed also in this of them one portico, being the earliest temple built of marble in Kome. Before these temples Metellus placed the famous group of twenty-fivebronze statues, which he had brought from Greece, executed the Great, and representing by Lysippus for Alexander
Metellus, alter
that conqueror of his troop who himself and twenty-four horsemen had fallen at the Granicus.^ The existing entrance fragment of the porticois the original to the whole. had suffered from fire in the reign of The building of this time restored by Septimius Severus, and Titus, and was is the largebrick arch on one side of the ruin.
'It
was

in this hall of Octavia

that

Titus

and

Vespasian

celebrated

their

Israel with the Jewish and festive pomp triumph over splendom-. Among spectators stood the historian Flavins Josephus, who was one of the followers and flatterers of Titus and to this base Jewish courtier we owe a description
.

of the

tvimnph.'"Grecjorovius, Wanderjahre

'

in Italien.'

Within the portico is the Church Here of S. Angelo in Pescheria. that Cola Eienzi summoned it was at midnight May 20, 1347 all re-establishment of ' the to citizens hold for the a good meeting ' Estate of the Holy Ghost ; and hence Good ; here he kept the vigil he went in forth,bareheaded, complete armour, accompanied by and attended the papal legate, by a vast multitude,to the Capitol, the Good he called upon the populaceto ratify Estate. where which most incited the indignaof the causes It is said that one tion of Rienzi against the assumption and pride of the Roman families was the ancient the fact of their paintingtheir arms on and thus in a manner them to their Roman appropriating buildings, thus of Remains of coats own arms painted may be seen glory. also on this very It was the front wall of the Portico of Octavia. on wall that Rienzi painted his famous picture. In this allegorical of the people were seen burning in a painting kings and men and Rome half- consumed, who personified furnace, with a woman white-robed whence issued the right was on a a church, angel, bearinghi one hand a naked sword, while with the other he plucked SS. Peter the woman tower from the flames. On the church were ' and Paul, crying to the angel, Aquilo, aquilo,succurri a 1' alberand beyond this were nostra representedfalcons (typical gatrice of the Roman barons) fallingfrom heaven into the flames, and a which it gave to a little bird white dove bearinga wreath of olive, inscribed Beneath was which was chased by the falcons. (Rienzi),
"

"

"

'

"

'I

see

the time
'

of

great justice ; do thou await that time.'

Then turn we to her latest triljune's name, her ten thousand From tyrants tm-n to thee, of dark centuries of shame" Redeemer Tlie friend of Petrarch hope of Italy"
"

See Dyer's

City of Borne.

The

Pescheria

169

! While the tree Kienzi ! last of Romans wither'd trunk puts forth a leaf, freedom's Even for thy toinh a garlanillet it be" chief" 'n"e Forum's champion and the people's Numa thou" with reign,alas ! too brief.' Her new-born Childe Harold.
Of

the brick arch of the Portico we used (till 1888) to enter fish-slabs of impeiial upon the ancient Pescheria, with the marble the dark, times stillremaining in use. scene It was a most striking houses almost meeting overhead and framing a narrow many-storied and rich stripof deep blue sky" below, the brightgroups of figures colouringof hanging cloths and drapery. That this most historic should not have been spared in the recent and picturesque scene

Through

"

destruction

of Rome

is inconceivable.

de celles qui des ruines les plus remarquables de Rome, et une 'C'est une perpetuel offrent ces contrastes piquants entre le passe et le present, amusement Le la ville des contrastes. de I'imagination dans est, portique d'Octavie s'elevent au et le fronton aux poissons. Les colonnes aujourd'hui,le marche milieu de I'endroit le plus sale de Rome ; leur effet n'en est pas moins pittoresetquand un aquarelle, que, il lest peut-ctre davantage. Le lieu est fait pour une soml)res de la rue etroite oii beau soleil eclaire les debris antiques,les vieux murs le poisson se vend sur des tables de marbre blanc, et a travers laquelledes nattes sont tendues, on romain, le spectacle d'un march"^ du a, a cote du monument Ampere, Emp. i. 179. moyen age, et un peu le souvenir d'un bazar d'OriGnt:"

of the Portico of the streets to the north-west the demolition remains of the that of Octavia,it was some Temple of expected would be discovered, and of the Porticus Philippi Hercules Musarum found. but nothing more than fragments of walls was On
Roman streets of an does not remember has ever been to Rome and homelike the day's work is done ? They are all alive in a serene arches cluster with life" a life fashion. The old town tells its story. Low You hunilde and stately, though rags hang from the citizens and the windows. their realise it as you pass them" their temples are in ruins,their rule is over" have Tlieir gates and their columns colonies have revolted long centuries ago. fallen like the trees of a forest,cut down by an invading civilisation.'" J/m
'

A\lio that

evening, when

Thackeray.
the Jews' quarter the the centre of what was ments improveGhetto, which has been swept away under modern of 1885-87. The The history of a nation has perished with ' the Ghetto.' is derived word from the Hebrew name chat, broken, destroyed, in Isaiah xiv. the Hebrew abandoned shaven,cut down, cast off, (see 12, XV. 2; Jer. xlviii. 25, 27; Zech. xi. 10-14, "c.). The first Jewish slaves were by Pompey the Great, after brought to Home he had taken Jerusalem and forciblyentered the Holy of Holies. in wealth But and for centuries after this they lived in Home and honour, their princes Herod Agrippa being received with in the Palace of the Caesars and home a distmction, royal finding in which Berenice (or Veronica),the daughter of Agrippa, presided would of Titus,who as the acknowledged mistress willingly have made her empress of Rome. The chief Jewish settlement Here famous
we are

in

"

'

'

"

170
in but

Walks
was

in Rome
on

the site of their after abode, live they here, and also had a large compelled S. Peter at Rome colony in the Trastevere ; and when was (if the Church tradition be true),he dwelt, with Aquila and Priscilla, the slopesof the Aventine. on Julius, Augustus, and Tiberius Caesar treated the Jews with kindness, but under Caligulathey with ill-treatment and met that already being contempt emperor irritated against them refused the only nation which as especially to yield him divine honours, and because they had successfully resisted the placing of his statue in the Holy of Holies at Jerusalem. On the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus,thousands of Jewish slaves and to were were Rome, brought employed on the buildingof the At the same Coliseum. time Vespasian,while allowingthe Hebrews in Rome the free exercise of their religion, obligedthem to pay the tax of half a shekel,formerly paid into the Temple treasury, to is stillkept up in the annual JupiterCapitolinus and this custom tribute paid by the Jews in the Camera Capitolina. Under Domitian the Jews banished from the city to the were of where lived in state of lawry, a valley Egeria, they poverty and outis described which by Juvenal,^ and occupied themselves with love-charms, soothsaying, magic potions,and mysterious

imperial times
were

nearly

not

to

"

"

cures.-

the earlier popes, the Jews at Rome enjoyed a nd II. the Anacletus liberty, (ob.1138) great anti-pope the grandson of a baptized Jew, whose was even family bore a The of the great patrician houses. as one leading part in Rome clemency with which the Jews were regarded was, however, partly due to their skill as physicians and long after their persecutions ; had begun (as late as Martin V., 1417-31),the physician of the Vatican first reallybitter enemy of the Jews The was a Jew. forbade IV. who was Condolmiere, (Gabriele Eugenius 1431-39), Christians to trade,to eat, or to dwell with them, and prohibited

During

the

reignsof
of

amount

them from walking in the streets, from building new synagogues, from or occupying any public post. Paul II. (1468)increased their humiliation by compelling them to run races during the Carnival, the horses run amidst the populace. This the hoots of as now, continued custom for two hundred Sprenger's 'Roma years. then the Jews Nuova,' of 1667, mentions that 'the asses ran first, the with their loins then naked, buffaloes,then only a band round in 1668, the Barbary horses.' It was Clement IX. (Rospigliosi), 1500 francs who first permitted the Jews to pay a sum to equivalent
"
"

annually instead of racing.

' On the first Saturday in Carnival,it was for the heads of the Jews the custom in the Capitol. in Rome to appear as a deputation before the Conservators Throwing themselves xipon their knees, they offered a nosegay and twenty scudi, with the request that this might be employed to ornament the balcony in which the Roman Senate sat in the Piazza del Popolo. In like manner they

Sat. iii.

Sat. xvi.

172

Walks
in S.

in Rome
Sabbath policeand children women, to lash them while there if they every
; and

Regola,then
agents
were

Angelo

in Pescheria

sent into the Ghetto

to drive men,

into the church with scourges, appeared to be inattentive.

'

and

must my lord preach his first now of the cared for in the merciful bowels Church, that, so to speak, a crumb at least from her conspicuous table here in Rome should be, though but once yearly, cast to the famishing dogs, underthe feet of the guests ; and a moving trampled and bespitten upon beneath of the besotted, blind, restive,and ready-tosight in truth this, of so many ! now perish Hebrews maternally brought nay (for He saith,' Compel them to come stinate it were, as by the head and hair, and against their obhaled, in'), hearts, to partake of the heavenly grace. .'"Diary by the Bwhop's
was come sermon

2S^ ow

about

Holy Cross Day, and

it
was

to the

Jews

: as

of old

"

1600. Secretary,
' Though what to this effect :"

the Jews

reallysaid,on thus being driven to church,was

rather

'

Groan all together now, whee-hee-hee I It's a-work, it's a-work, ah, woe is me ! of us, picked and placed, It began, when a herd Were spurred through the Corso, stripped to the waist ; Jew-brutes with sweat and blood well spent To usher in worthily Clu-istian Lent. when the hangman entered our bounds, Yelled, pricked us out to his chm'ch like hounds. It -got to a pitch when the hand indeed Which gutted my purse would throttle my creed. the odd. And it overflows when, to even Men I helped to their sins help me to their God.' a. B. It grew

Browning, 'Holy

Cross

Day.'

This custom of compelling Jews to listen to Christian sermons renewed and Leo was XII., only abolished in the early by ^ The walls of the Ghetto also remained, and its years of Pius IX. at closed were gates night until the reign of the same pope, who the limits of the Ghetto, and revoked all the oppressive removed laws against the Jews. The humane garded feelingwith which he rethis hitherto oppressedrace is said to have been first evinced when, on the occasion of his placinga liberal alms in the hands of a beggar, one of his attendants saying, ' It is a interposed, does that matter ? It is a Jew ! and the pope replied, What
was
' '

man.'
the Ponte Quattro Capi, a of the Ghetto near converted erected a still existing church, with a painting of Jew the Crucifixion on its outside wall (upon which Jew must every look as he came of the Ghetto), and underneath out an inscription and Latin All day in large letters of Hebrew from Isaiah Ixv. 2 : hands disobedient and to a long I have stretched out my saying gainpeople.' The lower streets of the Ghetto, especiallythe Fiumara, which was nearest the bank of the Tiber, were annually overflowed during the spring rains and melting of the mountain

Opposite the gate

'

1 It was Duke of Sennoneta, who, in 1848,obtained MichelangeloCaetani, Pius IX. that the Jews should not be forced to hear sermons.

from

The
snows,

Ghetto

173
Yet
narrow

productiveof great misery and distress. crowded into spiteof this,and of the teeming population the here the cholera less than alleys, during mortalitywas
which
was
"

in

other part of Rome, and malaria has been unknown here a from disease which attributed be the Jewish to perhaps may of whitewashing their dwellings at every festival. There custom Jewish and if the Jews went to an was no ordinary hospital, submit to a crucifix being hung over their liospital, they must beds. that the very centre It is remarkable of the Jewish ment settleshould be the Portico of Octavia, in which Vespasian and Titus celebrated their triumph after the fall of Jerusalem. Here and there in the narrow the seven-branched candlestick alleys carved on the house walls, a yet livingsymbol of might be seen the Jewish religion. Everything might be obtained in the Ghetto : precious stones, and Constantinopl lace,furniture of all kinds, rich embroidery from Algiers from but stuffs all concealed and was striped Spain * under cover. Cosa cercate ? the Jew shopkeepers hissed at you threaded their narrow and tried to entice you in to as alleys, you article was often passed on by a The same bargain with them. mutual arrangement from shop to shop, and met you wherever On all and went. bread was Friday evening shops were shut, you baked for the Sabbath was : all merchandise removed, and the men went and wished each other * a good Sabbath to the synagogue on their return.^ In the Piazza della Scuola are five schools under roof the one Scuola del Tempio, Catilana,Castigliana, and the Scuola Siciliana, Ghetto was divided into five Nuova, which show that the Roman districts or parishes, each of which represented a particular race, of the Jews, whose fathers accordingto the prevailingnationality have been either Roman-Jewish from ancient times, or have been Temple district was brought hither from Spain and Sicily ; the said above all others to assert its descent from the Jews of Titus. In the same is adorned the chief with richly piazza synagogue, sculptureand gilding. On the external frieze are represented in stucco the seven-branched candlestick, David's harp, and Miriam's is timbrel. The interior highly picturesqueand quaint,and is festas. The frieze which surrounds on hung with curious tapestries it represents the temple of Solomon with all its sacred vessels. A round window in the north wall, divided into twelve panes of is coloured and glass, symbolical of the twelve tribes of Israel, 'To the west is the round a type of the Urira and Thummim. desk for singers and choir, a wooden precentors. Opposite,in Holies the eastern is the Holy of with projecting staves (as wall, if for the carrying of the ark) restingon Corinthian columns. It is covered and which a texts on various devices curtain, by of roses and tasteful arabesques in the style of Solomon's temple
"

in any freedom

'

'

"

See Dr. Philip'sarticle

1887.

on

The

Jews

in

Borne,also

Ettore

Natali,II Ghetto

"!i Roma,

174
are

Walks
embroidered

in Rome

in gold. The seven-branched candlestick crowns the whole. In this Holy of Holies lies the sealed Pentateuch, a large parchment roll. This is borne in procession through towards the hall and exhibited from the desk all the points of the compass, and whereat the Jews raise their arms utter
a

cry.'

' Israel 1)eforc its tents,in full restless lalx)ur On entering the Ghetto, we see which and activity. The people sit in their doorways, or outside in the streets, receive hardly more light than the damp and gloomy chambers, and grub amid their old trumpery, or patch and sew diligently. It is inexpressible what a chaos of shreds and patches (calledcenci in Italian)is here accumulated. The whole world seems to be lying about in countless rags and scraps, as Jewish plunder. The fragments lie in heaps before the doors,they are of every kind and colour gold fringes,scraps of silk brocade, bits of velvet, red patches, blue patches, orange, yellow, black and white, torn, old, slashed and tattered pieces, such varied rubbish. The Jews might mend saw up large and small. I never all creation with it, and patch the whole world as gaily as harlequin's coat. There they sit and grub in their sea of rags, as though seeking for treasures,at least for a lost gold brocade. For they are as good antiquarians as any of those in Rome who grovel amongst the ruins to bring to lightthe stump of a column, Each ancient inscription, a an a fragment of a relief, coin, or such matters. in the Ghetto Hebrew Winckelmann lays out his rags for sale with a certain pride, as does the dealer in marble fragments. The latter boasts a piece of it with an excellent fragment of yellow silk ; giallo-antico the Jew can match porphyry here is represented by a piece of dark red damask, verde-antico a handsome And there is neither jasper,nor patch of ancient green velvet. the Ghetto quarian antialabaster,black marlDle or white, or parti-coloured,which The history of every fashion from Herod is not able to match. the Great of paletots,and of every mode of the highestas well as of the to the invention of which be collected from these fragments, some lower classes may are really have of Romulus, ScipioAfricanus, and may once adorned the persons historical,
" "

Hannibal, Cornelia, Augustus, Charlemagne, Pericles, Cleopatra, Barbarossa, Gregory VII., Columbus, and so forth. all that is capable of Here sit the daughters of Zion on these heaps, and sew Great is their boasted skill in all works of mending, darning, and being sewn.
'

and fine-drawing,

it is said

that

even

the

most

formidable

rent

in

any

old

becomes of these invisible under the hands garment whatsoever in the Fiumara, the street lying lowest and nearest to Arachnes. It is chiefly of unthe river,and in the street corners leavened (one of which is called Argumille, i.e., I have often seen with a feeling bread),that this business is carried on. of pain the pale,stooping,stai'ving as figures, laboriouslyplying the needle" men well as women, girlsand children. Misery stares forth from the tangled hair, in the yellow-brown faces, and complains silently and no beauty of feature recalls the countenance of Rachel, Leah, or Miriam a a glance from only sometimes deep-sunk,piercing black eye, that looks up from its needle and rags, and seems "From to say the daughter of Zion all her beauty is departed" she that was the provinces,how is she become the nations, and princess among great among tributary ! She weepeth sore in the night, and her tears are on her cheeks ;

drapery

or

"

"

among

all her

lovers

she

hath

none

to comfort

her

all her

friends have

dealt

her enemies. Judah is gone into treacherously with her, they are become of affliction, of great servitude ; she dwelleth and because captivity,because the heathen, she flndeth no rest : all her persecutors overtook her between among hath the straits. How the Lord covered the daughter of Zion with a cloud in

His anger

"

'
"

Gregorovius, Wander
street which

'

jahre.'
a

continuation of the Pescheria In the small square called Piazza della Giudecca. emerges upon the houses the right may be seen Tuscan columns and part on some of an architrave, remains of the the visible of Theatre only being Balbus, erected by C. Cornelius Balbus, a general who triumphed
narrow was

The

Palazzo

Cenci

175

in the time of Augustus, with the spoils taken from the Garamantes, It was a people of Africa. opened in the same year as the Theatre of Marcellus, and much smaller, was taining thoujfh very capable of conof and The Castor statues as as 11,600 spectators. many found here in 1556. were Pollux, at the head of the Capitol steps, At the back of the theatre were famous Crjrpta,the remains of which for the have been recently brought to light. The marble fountain in the piazza was of the Sun. plunderedfrom the Temple still partly on the site of the ancient theatre, and To the left, extending along one side of the Piazza delle Scuole, is the vast Cenci family Palazzo Cenci, the ancient residence of the famous Count Cenci a nd the scene of (now represented by Bolognetti), of the terrible crimes and tragedies which stain its annals. many
The Cenci Palace is of great extent ; and, though in part modernised, there state as yet remains a vast and gloomy pile of feudal architecture in the same The which it once witnessed. diu-ingthe dreadful scenes palace is situated in of Rome, near oliscure corner the quarter of the Jews, and from the upper an ruins of Mount windows Palatine,half hidden under the you see the immense profuse undergrowth of trees. There is a court in one part of the palace supported with antique friezes of fine workmanship, and by columns, and adorned liuilt up, after the Italian fashion, with balcony over balcony of open work. One of the gates of the palace, formed of immense stones,and leading through dark and lofty, and opening into gloomy subterranean a passage chambers, struck me particularly.'" SAe^^ey's Preface to The Cenci.'
' '

Opposite the further

S. Tommaso

entrance

of the Palace

1113 dei Cenci, founded Julius II. to Rocco Cenci granted by ; and rebuilt in 1575 by the wicked Count Cenci, whose story and that of his unhappy family have been the subject of a thousand romances. Only very recent discoveries have strippedthe terrible facts of the veil in which fiction and poetry had shrouded them.^
"

tinychurch of by Cencio, Bishop of Sabina;

is the

In 1556,a certain Monsignor Cristofero Cenci became of the treasurer-general He was but a clerk (chierico), he was not a priest, that is, Apostolic Chamber. not able to say mass l)ound to celibacy,though he possessed those inferior or Orders without which no one could aspire to a lucrative office at the Apostolic He held the benefice of S. Tommaso, the Cenci palace, where Court. he near lived in concubinage with a married named Beatrice Arias,by whom, woman the father of a sonduT-ing the lifetime of her husband, he had become After the death of Beatrice's husband, Monsignor Cenci legitimatised Francesco. his son and died in 1562, having married Beatrice on his death-bed, providing her with a handsome income, begging her to live honeste e caste,and leaving Francesco heir of his great riches. in 1549,evinced the crueltyof his disposition from Francesco, born illegitimate At eleven years old he was tried before a criminal court for having childhood. ad sanguinem beaten At fourteen, he was one Quintilio de Vetralla. usque the father. In 1563, he again in trouble about a child of which he had become of Ersilia, became the brutal and violent husband daughter of Valerio Santa from her luicle, Croce,who had a dowry of 5000 crowns Prospero Santa Croce. which lasted twenty-one years, she gave birth During her wretched married life, to twelve five died in infancy. Of her five unhai)py sons, children, of whom Giacomo died on nmrdered a scaffold, Sept. 10, 1599 ; Cristofero was by one Paolo Buono Corso, his rival in a love affair ; Rocco was killed in a duel in 1595 of Orsini, Count of Pitigliano son by an illegitimate ; Bernardo, always delicate,
'
'

See Francesco

Cenci

la

sua

Famiglia, by

Bertolotti.

1877. Firenze,

176

Walks

in Rome

died a nattxral death in 1627 ; Paolo, also always sickly from childhood, died, proljably of consumption, in ICOO. Of the two daughters, the elder,Antonina, born in 1573, was of married, with a dowry of 2fi,000crowns, to Luzio Savelli, the great Roman family, and died early,without children. The birth of the younger daughter, Beatrice,is recorded in the registerof SS, Lorenzo On Feb. 12, 1577,Beatrice,daughter of Francesco e Damaso Cenci and his wife Ersilia, of the parish of S. Tommaso dei Cenci.' i Accounts which still exist show that Beatrice kept her father's house till1593, in which year Francesco Cenci married of a man named again with Lucrezia Petroni, widow Yelli,by whom she had three daughters, to each of whom her second hus])and gave a
'
"

dowry.
Still existing records prove that soon after his first man-iage the crimes of Francesco such Cenci were that he was imprisoned permanently in his own house. From this imprisonment he was banished from relieved in 1572, and was the Papal States, if found within them. Yet in under a penalty of 10,000 crowns February of the following year Cardinal Caraffa obtained his pardon from the Pope, and he was permitted to return. In 1586 he made a will,providing for all his family except his eldest son, whom In 1590 his fortunes he disinherited. ,were attacked his father, by the representatives of the puljlicoffices whom Monsignor Cenci, was proved to have defrauded ; but, on payment of 25,000 crowns he was absolved (in addition to 30,000already paid with the same object), from all further public debt, and he was legitimatisedby the Pope, as if he had been born in lawful wedlock. The domestic Cenci seemed cruelties of Francesco only to increase after the death of his wife Ersilia in 1584. Pelli of Spoleto His mistress, Maria 'La bella Spoletina brought an action against him in 1593 for his extreme cruelty. On April 10,1593, his man-servant, Angelo Belloni,also appeared against him for his excessive violence in ])eating him for two and shutting him up naked days. On April 25, 1594, one Attilio Angelini appeared against Count Cenci for the On March injuriesreceived by his brother-in-law,nearly killed by his violence. before summoned the criminal 9, 1594, also, Cenci was magistrate for cruelty and unnatural crimes. The accusations of the utmost were enormity, but in that venal age a pardon was the accusers secured for 100,000crowns" being put to the torture,but adhering to their story ; the accused, being noble, escaping
"

'

"

altogether.
Meantime Cenci's sons did not stand much the character of Francesco higher than that of the father. in prison in 1594,his eldest son AATiilstCount Cenci was Giacomo of eml)ezzling money accused married without his consent, and was which belonged to his father. the second sou, was Cristofero, constantly before the criminal courts. The third son, Rocco, was even and, after being worse, his way back to rob his father's fined 5000 crowns and exiled for his crimes, made he was In this house of various valuables, for which tried on March 19, 1594. robbery Monsignore Mario Guerra (often desciibed as a lover of Beatrice)was the accomplice of Rocco, and the two daughters of Count examined Cenci were as witnesses against him. murdered In the night of September 9, 1598, Count Francesco two hired was l)y where he was in the habit of spending assassins in his desolate castle of Petrella, held a nail over the eye of his victim, One of the murderers part of the autumn. then thrown The body was from a whilst the other hammered it into his head. in the that he might be withered window the branches of hope a tree, upon The supposed to have fallen and that his brain had been pierced by accident. whole family immediately left Petrella, Giacomo, Bernardo, and Paolo returning at this time offered to Rome and going into mourning for their father. Giacomo a magnificent altar-cloth (as an ?)to the church of S. Maria del expiatory offering the Government Pianto near the Cenci palace. IMeantime put a price upon the killed (May 17, 1599) was heads of the assassins. One of these, Olympio Calvetti, Tullio and Cesare Busone, acting, as documents at Cantilice, near Petrella,by Marco pliprove, by the order of Monsignore Mario Guerra, alreadysuspected of com city in the murder, who hoped thus to destroy the evidence against himself. The taken other assassin, Marzio l)y the exertions of one Gaspare Catalano, was Guizza claimed a Guizza, and a ciuious petition (dated 1601) exists,by which ' the other accomplices and their reward from the pope for this service, by which

Therefore

at the time

of her death

over she'^was

twenty-one.

Palazzo
confessions
were

Costaguti
of Catalano

177

papal treasury.' In fact,the

brought into the [ofcroivns led to the arrest, ber Decemon The speech 10, 1598, of Lucrezia, Giacomo, Bernardo, and Beatrice Cenci. stillexists by which Prospero Farinaccio,the advocate of Beatrice,allowing her which complicity in the crime, set forward as her defence the terrible excuse was as a monster given to her by the conduct of her father,already well known (^flawless cruelty and profligacy. The prisonerswere allowed to make wills in prison,and the curious will of Beatrice can still be read, by which she befor 100 crowns for her burial in S. Pietro in Montorio, 3000 crowns (lueathetl the wall which l)uilding supports the road up to the church, and 1750 to other churches and for the saying of masses for her soul : she also left legaciesto the three daughters of her stepmother, Lucrezia. The fearful story usually told of the tortures by which the last confession of Beatrice was extorted has, doubtless, who been exjvggerated sinned inider the ; but sympathy will always follow one most cruel death was terril)leof provocations,and whose due to the avarice of Clement VIII. for the riches which the Church acciuired by the confiscation of the Cenci property.
secured, and
so

many] thousands

confession

our Retracing

left steps to the Piazza della Giudecca, and turning

down

reach

which is always busy with Jewish we traffic, alley, the Piazza dalle Tartamghe, so called from the tortoises which form part of the adornments of its lovelylittle fountain designed Giacomo della of the four by Porta, figures boys being by Taddeo Landini. At this pointwe leave the Ghetto.
a narrow
"

side of the Piazza delle Tartarughe is the Palazzo one celebrated for its six splendidceilings by great artists, Costaguti, viz. :

Forming
"

1. Albani. Hercules wounding the Centaur 2. Domenichiiw. Apollo in his car, Time

Nessus.

discovering Truth, "c."

by dragons. Cupids.

much

injured.
3. Guercino. in a cliariot drawn Rinaldo and Armida 4. Cav. d' Arpino. Juno nursing Hercules, Venus and 5. LanJ'ranco. Justice and Peace. 6. lioniaiielli. Arion saved by the Dolphin.

On the other side of the square is the entrance, marked by a shield in a wreath, of a neglected palace which possesses one of the most mediaeval picturesque courtyards in the city,with two tiers of arches. On the same is the Palazzo Mattel, line,at the end of the street, built by Carlo Maderno Asdrubal Mattel, on the (1615) for Duke site of the Circus of Flaminius. The small courtyardof this palace is well worth in Rome, and is one of the handsomest examining, being quite encrusted, as well as the staircase, with ancient basand other sculptures. It contained a gallery of pictures reliefs, busts, which have been dispersed.The rooms have frescoes by Pomera7icio, Pietro da Cortona,Domenichino, and Albani. The decorations Lanfranco, of the ballroom are of great beauty. A littleterrace,laden witli sculptures, where a fountain is overhung by arcades of banksia is of the loveliest spots in the city. one roses, The posts and rings at the corner of the streets near the Mattel Palace are curious relics of the time when the powerfulMattel family
VOL. I.
M

178
had the

Walks

in Rome

rightof drawing chains across the streets during the papa conclaves,and of occupying the bridges of San Sisto and Quattro Capi, with the interveningregionof the Ghetto. Behind Palazzo Mattel, facingthe Via delle Botteghe Oscure, is

the vast Palazzo Caetani, built by Cardinal Alessandro Mattel, but, Church after his death forfeited the cardinals to have only (for being paganda), on latelybeen allowed to make a will, payment of a fine to the Proafterwards the property of the was sold, and became learned Don Michelangelo Caetani (Duke of Sermoneta and Prince of in the mediaeval Teano),whose famil}' one of the most distinguished cardinals and three popes to the Church, historyof Rome gave eight Boniface VIII. of whom the most celebrated was
" "

'Lo

principede'

nuovi

farisei.'

Dante, Inferno,xxvii.
created Count of Caeta claim descent from Anatolius, in the historic in II. 730, relics preserved by Pope Gregory Among the palace is the sword of Cesare Borgia. Mattel is the Church of S. Caterina de' Close to the Palazzo della Porta in 1563, adjoining a convent Funari, built by Giacomo The streets in this quarter are of Augustinian nuns. interesting to the existence of the Circus as bearing witness in their names occupied Flaminius, the especialcircus of the plebs,which once this. The Via delle all the ground near memorates Botteghe Oscure comin mediaeval times occupied the the dark shops which that of the Theatre of lower part of the circus, as they do now Marcellus : the Via del Funari, the ropemakers, who took advantage of the light and open space w^hich the interior of for their work The remains of the circus existed circus afforded. the deserted The Caetani
to the sixteenth

Near

century. is the Piazza this,turningright,

for in of S. Maria Church the site of an erected VII. in 1659, upon Alexander by oratory I. (523-6), in honour of the Virgin, S. Galla in the time of John who one day miraculouslyappeared imploring her charity, in she was to whom with the twelve poor women daily in company called S. The oratory of S. Galla was the habit of giving alms. Maria in Portico, from the neighbouring porticoof Octavia,a name A likeness of which is sometimes appliedto the present church. she S. to mendicant line the Galla, in gold outappeared Virgin, as is now enshrined in gold and lapis-lazuli over a on sapphire, from contagious and is supposed to protect Rome the high altar, relics supposed to be preserved here are the Other diseases. bodies of S. Cyriaca,S. Victoria, and S. Vincenza, and half that of S. Barbara ! The second chapel on the right has a pictureof the of the Holy Ghost Descent by Luca Giordano ; in the first chapel inscribed tomb of Prince is the the left Altieri, Umbra,' and on ' Nihil ; they Laura di Carpegna, inscribed that of his wife. Donna In the right transept is the tomb by lions of rosso-antico. rest on PcUrich of Cardinal Pacca, who lived in the Palazzo Pacca, on the the
' '

which Campitelli, Campitelli,built by Rinaldi di

tains con-

180

Walks
sinner,
them
life and

in

Rome

miserable dwell to

grievous
as

offender meanest
upon and
a

against
of

God,
servants

and

asked

permission

to

amongst
her

the
enter

their

amend

holier

course.

to from learn them ; and of The spiritual daughters

her with their clothing habit, ; and all to returned thanks God. they While in prayer, she remained there de Lellis, the assembled Agnese superioress, in the the to sisters and declared that their true chapter-room, them, now had mother and foundress for it would be absurd her to amongst come them, in Francesca remain her office ; that their and present was guide, their head, that into her hands she should her all apinstantly resign authority. They plauded her to round the her their decision, and gathering Saint, announced be wishes. As to Francesca refused accede to to expected, was strenuously this and for the of her duties The pleaded proposal, inability a superioress. embrace her

Francesca

hastened

to

raise
the

they

led

the

way

to

chapel,

where

Oblates

had

recourse

to

Don

Giovanni,
her

the

confessor of

of

entreating,
never

and

finally commanded
; and

acceptance
25th of

the

Francesca, charge.
was

who

began
order elected

by
she to

His

resisted office.'
"

that 'S. black holds

manum
"

Lady

the accordingly, on FuUerton's Georgiana

is

'Life
in

she March, of S. Francesca dress

of
a

duly
Romana.'

Francesca robe in his and hand

E,omana
a

represented
or

the her

Benedictine is
an

nun,

white the book

hood

veil Office

; and of

proper

attribute
open me,

angel,
"

who

of the
et

thejVirgin,
tuadeduxisti is derived

at
et

the
cum

words,
thus

Tenuisti

dexteram

meam,

in

voluntate attribute

gloria suscepisti
narrated

me

(Ps.

Ixxiii. of

2.3, 24)
her she her God
at

; which

from

an

incident her
on

in

the

acts

canonisation.
was

Though
away

unwearied

in

devotions,
any

during
she
must

her

prayers,

called

by

her

husband

domestic

yet if, duty,

would

close her
once
as

book,
the

quit happened
times she of

that,
she
verse was

just
found

"a and wife when called saying that mother, a upon, find him in her household affairs." Now it altar, and in reciting Office of our the she called four Lady, was away the the fifth beginning and, returning time, same verse, upon

that

written
"

the
'

page

in

letters
p.

of 151.

golden

light by the

hand

her

guardian

angel.'

Jameson's

Sacred

Art,'
the of the
to to

Almost
narrow

the opposite alley, leading up

convent to

is foot of

Via the

del

Monte Eock

Tarpeio,
beneath the site Rock
of

the
one

Tarpeian
at

the
was

Palazzo best of
seen.

Caffarelli,
This

and is

points
have

which the himself

spot

believed tried

been

the the

house

people
His

Spurius by buying
who
was

Maelius,
up
was corn

who
and

ingratiate distributing it in a
put
to

with of

(B.C. 440), but

house
went

in consequence
to
name

death

razed

the of

vacant,
fortress

by
of

the the

and its ground, Aequimaelium.^

at

scarcity year by the patricians. site being always kept of the Part primitive
of the

wall

Capitol

remains

the

edge

perpendicular

rock.

Livy,

iv. 16

; xxxviii.

28.

CHAPTER
THE PALATINE

VI

The

The Via Nova" Roma Quadrata" The Story of the Hill" Orti Farnesiani" of Domitian Palace of the early kinRS" Temple of Jupiter Stator houses The of Jupiter-Victor" Lupercal and Vespasian" Orypto-Porticus" Temple Palace of Caligula" Clivus Palace of Tiberius" of Faustulus" and the Hut of Loci" House of the kingly period" Altar of the Genius Ruins Victoriae" Hortensius" Palace of Augustus" Stadium" Septizonium of Severus.
"

*rrHE the

Palatine
were

formed about

-i- which
area

300

nearly equal

London.'*
The Here was of which force.

of its summit, to to the space

trapezium of solid rock, two sides of yards in length,the others about 400 : it with a familiar object, was compare
between is the
*

Pall

Mall

and

Piccadilly in

history of the Palatine

Roma

history of the city of Rome.

'

Quadrata,

the

oppidum
the

or

fortress of the
name

the only This is the

remaining
fortress

trace

is the

Roma,

Pelasgi, signifying
is

where

shepherd-king Evander

representedby Virgilas welcoming Aeneas. within the limits The Pelasgicfortress was enclosed by Romulus Etruscan after the of his new fashion, he traced city, which, round the foot of the hill with a plough drawn by a bull and a and the to fall made the furrow inwards, heifer, being carefully that strength and heifer yoked to the near side,to signify courage and w ithin the obedience were without, fertility city.^ required reserved for the temples of the gods thus enclosed was The locality and the residence of the ruling class, the class of patricians or entitle has Niebuhr which to them, burghers, as taught us dominated preand only suffered them the dependent commons, to over
'
. . .

crouch
never

The Palatine was securityunder the walls of Romulus. occupied by the plebs. In the last age of the republic,long for of this
or partition,

after the removal the

of the civil distinction

was

between

great classes of the

state, here

still the chosen

site of the

^ of the highestnobility.' mansions In the time of the early kings the

city of Rome

was

represented

TTiM. of JRomans tinder the Empire, chap. xl. ^ferivale, called the pomoerium, from was boundary thus fonned beyond the wall.' 8 Merivale,chap. xl.
2

The

post moerium

181

182 by the Palatine

Walks

in Rome

into two parts, one at first divided It was inhabited, and the other called Velia, and left for the grazing of cattle. It had two gates, the Porta Komana to the north-east,and the Porta Mugonia the lowing of the cattle to the so called from the side of the Velia. on south-east, born on the Palatine, and dwelt there in common Augustus was with other patrician citizens in his youth. After he became emperor he stilllived there, but simply, and in the house of Hortensius,till, its destruction by fire, insisted upon building on the peopleof Rome him a palace more the This of their ruler. building was worthy in foundation-stone of 'the Palace of the Caesars,' which time overran the whole hill, and, under Nero, two of the neighbouring hills and whose ruins are daily besides, being disinterred and recognised, sites. their respective though much confusion stillremains regarding In A.D. 663, part of the palace remained to be sufficiently perfect inhabited by the Emperor Constans, and its plan is believed to have been entire for a century after,but it never recovered its sack really by Genseric in a.d. 455, in which it was completely gutted,even of the commonest furniture ; and as years passed on it became bedded emenshrouded the in the soil which all has so marvellously ancient buildingsof Rome, so that till 1861 only a few broken nameless walls were visible above ground.

only.

"

"

Cypress and hy, weed and wallflower grown, Matted and mass'd together, hillocks heap'd On what stro^vn were chambers, arch crush'd,columns In fragments, choked-up vaults,and frescoes steep'd In subteiTanean damps, where the owl peep'd. Deeming it midnight :" Temples, baths, or halls ? Pi'onounce who can ; for all that Learning reap'd From her research has been, that these are walls. Behold the Imperial Mount I 'Tis thus the mighty falls.' Byron, ' Childe Harold.'
"

'

different is this Consulat. Honor ii) : How

"

to description

that

of Claudian

{De Sexto

'

(An

Palatine,proud Rome's imperial seat, pile)stands venerably great : Thither tlie kingdoms and the nations come In supplicating crowds to learn their doom To Delphi less th' inquiring worlds repau, Nor does a greater god inhabit there :
The
awful

mansion This sure the pompous was design'd To please the mighty rulers of mankind ; Inferior temples rise on either hand. And of the palace stand, the borders on ^Miile o'er the rest her head she proudly rears, And lodg'd amidst her guardian gods appears.' Addison's

Translation.

of the sixteenth century a great part of the After the middle Palatine became the property of the Farnese family,latterly sented repreby the NeapolitanBourbons, who sold the 'Orti Farnesiani,' for "10,000. It is curious in 1861, to the Emperor .Napoleon III.,

Palace

of the

Caesars

183

of * the Palace of the Caesars ' should have been that the possession to Napoleon during his exile the only relic of his empire remaininpj in England, when he sold it to the city of Rome. Up to 1861 this b roken here and of Palatine the vast was a kitchen-garden, part ing there by picturesque groups of ilex trees and fragments of moulderwall. In one corner was a casino of the Farnese (still standing), of the pupilsof Raffaelle. adorned in fresco by some This, and all marked with the Farnese fleurthe later buildings in the *Orti,' are of the and on the principal staircase de-lis, garden is some reallyside of the hill, of their time. The grand distemper ornament

beyond the Villa Mills, has always presented a strikingmass ruins, and was picturesque formerlyapproached from the Via
Sebastiano,but is now

of S.

united to the other ruins. Since 1861 extensive for the have been carried on upon the Palatine, excavations under of which have the most superintendence Signor Rosa, part the earliest resulted in the discoveryof the palaces of some of the and substructions of several temples. emperors,
The Farnese gardens were, if not unique, certainly a very rare specimen of villa and of the taste which cinquecento Roman prevailedat that period in in which left to nature itself, was laying out pleasure grroimds, veiy little work and nearly everything to the mason and plasterer. Still the Farnese gardens bom with a heavy original sin that of concealing, of disfiguring, and of were if. Lanciani, cuttingpiecemeal the magnificent ruins of the imperial palace.'"
ft
"

'

1882.

Till the fall of the Papacy, the Palace of the Caesars was bably probeautiful ruin in the world. It has nothing left the most and but its historic interest : all the exquisite shrubs flowers which adorned its walls have been torn away, and the grass and flowers with which its vast halls every week nature re -covers are fast that weeded the ruins are now little as as they appear, so away than featureless walls dispersed more over a s accession of ploughed fields. the Palace of the Caesars, it will naturallybe asked In visiting it is known that the different buildings are what how they are described In a great measure this has been ascertained to be. of Tacitus and other historians, but the from the descriptions greatest assistance of all has been obtained from the 'Tristia' of the different consoles himself by recalling Ovid, who, while in exile, his native which he mentions in of the buildings city, describing he had persuaded a friend to convey route taken by his book, which to the imperial library. He supposes the book to enter the Palatine behind the Temple of Vesta, and follows by the Clivus Victoriae, it passed on the rightor its course, remarking the different objects the left. After the state palace of Augustus was a street called Vicus built, from the the Via Sacra, l ed to At the entrance an palace Apollinis archway was erected bearing a chariot drawn by four horses,driven by Apollo and Diana, a masterpieceof Lysias. Some remains of this archway existed as late as 1575. Entering the palace from this side, SS. Cosmo had better onlyascend e Damiano, we opposite
"

184

Walks

in Rome

the first division of the staircase and then turn to the left.^ Passing afterwards along the lower ridgeof the Palatine, occupiedby many of the great patricianhouses, whose sites we shall return to and in detail, w^e reach that corner of the garden which is of Titus. Here a paved road of largeblocks of lava has lately been laid bare, and is identified beyond a doubt as of Via the Nova, which led from the Porta Mugonia of the part Palatine along the base of the hill to the Velabrum, and which in the reign of Augustus was made to communicate also with the Forum. called Summa At this point the road was Via Nova. Near this spot must the site of the house have been where Octavius lived with his wife Atia, the niece of Julius Caesar and where their son, Octavius, (daughterof his eldest sister Julia), afterwards the Emperor Augustus, was born. This house wards afterinto the of C. Laetorius,a patrician possession passed ; but, after the death of Augustus, part of it was turned into a chapel, and consecrated It was to him. situated at the top of a staircase ' ^ " which probablyled to the Forum, and supra scalas anularias is spoken of as ' ad capita bubula,' perhaps from bulls' heads,with which it may have been decorated. Here find ourselves,owing to the excavations, in a deep we hollow between the two divisions of the hill. On the left is the Velia, upon which, near the Porta Mugonia, the Sabine king,Ancus Ancus succeeded died, he was Martins, had his palace. When by Etruscan of an stranger, Lucius Tarquinius, w^ho took the name ^ lived Priscus. the This also with Velia, king Tarquinius upon murdered in a popular rising, Tanaquil, his queen, and here he was caused by the sons quil of his predecessor. Here his brave wife Tanaclosed the doors, concealed the death of the king, harangued the people from the windows,^ and so gained time till Servius Tullius was dead take the to king's prepared placeand avenge his The murder.^ Porta Mugonia was probably the veterem portani Palatii of Livy (i. fled when 12) through which the Romans repulsed the Sabines of the by Capitol. are now^some on our huge blocks of tufa, Keeping to the valley, right almost crumbled from exposure into mere heaps of volcanic earth, but of great interest as part of the ancient Roma Quadrata, being used in tracing the pit in which the instruments a rough altar over its encircling furrow had been buried. This altar was preserved at examine
nearest to the Arch
"
"

least as late as the time of SeptimiusSeverus. An ludi saeculares of 204 A.D. mentions it as ' on the

of the before Palatine,

account

1 This entrance is (1886) now only open on public days ; the other entrance is close to S. Teodoro, whence it is a considerable walk to this point. A first ^isit, therefore,may be best paid on a public day. Here stood, tillit was pulled down in 1884, the Farnese of Vignola in the sixteenth centuiy. gateway, a fine work An order to draw in the Palace of the Caesars must be obtained at 1 Via Mii-auda, the other side of the Forum. on 2 Sueton. * Ibid. 3 Livy, i. 41. Aiig.72. 5 The palace of Numa close to the Temple of Vesta ; that of Tullus Hostilius was the Coelian ; those of Servius Tullius and Tarquinius Superbus on the was on

Esquiline.

Temple
the

of

Jupiter Stator

185

' of Apollo, within the portico (ofthe Danaids). Beyond remains of a concrete are podium of imperial this,also on the right, of the of Temple of Jupiter Stator, a rebuilding times, probably found a temple to that he would erected by Romulus, who vowed of his Roman Jupiter under that name, if he would arrest the flight Sabines.^ the of forces followers in their conflict with the superior

Temple

'

Inde petens dextram, Porta est,ait,ista Palati ; loco est.' Hie Stator,hoc primum condita Roma Ovid, Trist. iii.El. 1. 31.

'

Tempus
Ante

idem Stator aedis habet, quam Palatini condidit ora jugi.'

Romulus

olim

Omd, Fast. vi. 793. of Jupiter Stator, which was interest from Nero, has an especial of Cicero and Catiline. story The under

temple

burnt

in the

great fire
with the

its connection

Le choix de lieu le temple de Jupiter Stator. temple ^tait pres de la principale entree du Palatin, en cas d'emeute, le Forum, que Ciceron et les principaux s'ileut fallu se senateurs, habitants du Palatin,n'avaient pas i traverser comme rendre i\ la Curie. D'ailleurs, Jupiter Stator, qui avait arrete les Sabines k la Lt\ ennemis qui voulaient sa ruine. porte de Romulus, arreterait ces nouveaux Ce discours exitk etre en grande partie la premiere Catilinaire. Ciceron pronon^a les evdnements aussi improvisaient. Cic(^ron ne savait si Catilina car impro\'ise, fameux devant le senat ; en le voyant entrer,il conQut son oserait se pri^senter exorde : Jusqu':\quand, Catilina, abuseras-tu de notre patience ! Ciceron et qui Malgr6 la garde volontaire de chevaliers qui avait accompagne i\ la \K"rtedu temple, Catilina y entra et salua tranquillementI'asse tenait semblee ; nul ne lui rendit son salut, i\ son approche on s'ecarta et les places resttjrent vides autour de lui. II ^couta les foudroyantes apostrophes de Ciceron, I'avoir accable des preuves de son crime, se bornait a lui dire : "Sors qui, aprfes
'

Ciceron

rassembla

le senat dans
ce

s'expliquefacilement ; le Velia,dominant, sur

"

"

'

Va-t'en ! de Rome. 'Catilina se leva et d'lm

avant

"

air modeste pria le st^nat de ne pas croire le consul "II n'est pas vraisemblable," ajouta-t-il, ^t6 faite. lequel,aussi bien que hauteur toute aristocratique, avec une "qu'un patricien, h services la ne rendu a puisse exister que par r6publique, ses ancetres, quelques Tant sa ruine, et (|u'onait besoin d'un etranger d'Arpinum pour la sauver." " Tu es un d'orgueilet d'impudence r^voltferent rasseml)lee ; on cria il Catilina : reunit encore ses ennemi meurtrier." II sortit, de la patrie, un amis, leur requi avait oommanda de se debarrasser de Cic6ron,prit avec lui une aigled'ai-gent et partit par la voie appartenu a une legion de Marius, et i miuuit quitta Rome .\urelia pour aller rejoindre son armie.'" Ampere, Ilist. Rom. iv. 445.

qu'une enquete

eAt

Nearly opposite the foundations

are

On

the left, of the Porta Palatii. considered to be those remains .some tions, shaft of drain close to the foundathe blocks ; tufa, in a and Philocrates, the names of two Greek stonemasons, Diodes of

Jupiter Stator, on

appear. The

of building which blocked valley is now by a vast mass Flavian is closes it. This the Palace, built in the valley entirely of the Palatine,which between the Velia and the other eminence identifies with the Grermalus. Rosa, contrary to other opinions,

division of the Palatine

thus

named

was

reckoned

as

one

of

'

The the

ii.50 Dionysius,

Livy,i. 12.

186
seven

Walks
hills
'

in Rome
name was

of ancient

Eome.

from

Germani, owing

Its to Komulus
a.d.

and

Eemus

thought to be derived being found in its

vicinity.^
70, began to fill up the hollow of Flavian Palace upon it,using any the chambers as a support for their own, existing buildings filling of the earlier buildingentirely up with earth, so that they became solid massive foundation. The ruins which a visit are thus we those of the Flavian of its halls we can Palace, but from one descend into earlier rooms, of the time of perhaps Augustus. The three in front of we now see projecting rostra which the palace are As restorations Rosa. the of Signer by palace Domitian, the upper buildingsare described by the courtier-poet
Titus and the Palatine

Vespasian,in
and
to

build

the

Statius.2
and came their villas, into the to the Palace town of the Caesars for the transaction of public business. Thus this palace was, as it were, the St. James's of Rome. inscribed ' Aedes Nerva its external wall, to Publicae on The fatigue impress upon the Roman peopleits public character. and annoyance of a public arrival every morning, amid the crowd of clients who waited the was always imperialfootsteps, upon naturallyvery great, and to obviate this the emperors made use of subterranean round the whole and a ran building, passage which enabled to arrive unobserved, and not to by which they were the rostra present themselves in public till their appearance upon in front of the building to receive the morning salutations of their
at
'

palace on the Palatine was generally lived. They resided

The

not the

placewhere

the

Emperors

people.
If
we

turn

to the

beneath right,

the

garden which

now

covers

the

to greater part of the hill of Germalus, we shall find an entrance this passage, following which, we will ascend with the emperor into his palace. and The passage, called Crypto-Porticus,is still quite perfect, retains a great part of its mosaic pavements and much of its inlaid from which the giltmosaic has been picked out, but the ceilings, from above. It is The stilltraceable. lighted pattern passage was in was by this route that S. Laurence was led up for trial the basilica of authorities also pointit out as the scene of the palace. Recent

the murder of Domitian is joined by one of more

to the

(seelater).After
recent

some

distance

the passage

palace of Tiberius.
a

date, with stucco ornament, leading let us turn to the left, But, before this,

staircase, again upon the upper level. emerge reached the here palace,but as he did not yet wish emperor to appear to the left by the privatepassage in public,he turned halls the main called Fauces, which still remains, running behind of of the building. Here he was received by the different members received by Princess the imperial much as Napoleon III. was family, in and the a Mathilde, Clotilde, Murats, privateapartment at the and, mounting
The
1

YaiT.

iv. 8.

Silv. iv. 11. IS.

188
appointed
But

Walks

in Rome

such delegateto hear appeals from each province respectively. one criminal appeals appear in generally to have been heard by the emperor assisted by his council of assessors. Tiberius and Claudius had usually person, sat for this purpose in the Forum ; but Nero, after the example of Augustus, heard these causes in the imperial palace, whose ruins still crown the Palatine. Here, at one end of a splendid hall,ilined with the precious marbles of Egypt and of Libya, we must imagine Caesar seated in the midst of his assessors. These councillors, of the highest rank and greatest men twenty in number, were influence. and selected representativesof the two consuls Among them were each of the other great magistracies of Rome. The remainder consisted of senators chosen by lot. Over this distinguished bench of judges presided the existed" the representative of the most powerful monarchy which has ever absolute ruler of the whole civilised world. ' Before the tribunal of the blood-stained adulterer Nero, Paul was brought in fetters, under the custody of his military giiard. The prosecutors and their witnesses were called forward to support their accusation ; for, although the subject-matter for decision was contained in the written depositions forwarded from Judaea of law required the personal presence by Festus,yet the Roman the accusers and the witnesses, whenever We it could be obtained. already know the charges brought against the Apostle. He was accused of disturbing the Jews in the exercise of their worship, which was secm-ed to them by law ; of of violating the public peace of the desecratingtheir Temple ; and, above all, and factious sect. empire by perpetual agitation, as the ringleader of a new This charge was the most serious in the view of a Roman statesman ; for the crime alleged amounted to majestas, against the commonwealth, and or treason was punishable with death. * These accusations were supported by the emissaries of the Sanhedrim, and probably by the testimony of witnesses from Judaea, Ephesus, Corinth, and the other scenes of Paul's activity. Wlien the parties on both sides had been heard, and the witnesses all examined, the judgment of the court was taken. Each of the assessors who his opinion in writing to the emperor, never gave discussed the judgment with his assessors, as had been the practice of better but after reading their opinion, gave sentence according to his own emperors, pleasure, without reference to the judgment of the majority. On this occasion it might have been expected that he would have pronounced the condemnation of the accused, for the influence of Poppaea had now reached its culminating point, and she was a Jewish proselyte. We can scarcelydoubt that the emissaries from Palestine would have demanded of a traitor to her aid for the destruction the Jewish faith ; nor would to their any scruples have prevented her listening bribe. ever Howa request,backed as it probably was, according to Roman by usage, He this may was be, the trial resulted in the acquittal of S. Paul. nounced prostruck off, of the charges brought against him, his fetters were guiltless and he was liberated from his long csL^tiyity. '"Conybeare and Hoicson.
. . .

Beyond the basilica is the Tablinum, the great hall or throneof the palace, which served as a kind of commemorative room domestic museum, where family statues and pictureswere preserved. Huge statues in porphyry and basalt lined the walls, the fashion of these materials having been introduced This vast under Claudius.
room was

from above, lighted

on

at S. Maria

degliAngeli,which house. The roof of this hall was by the side walls. These immense of which the hard Roman cement

the plan which may still be seen in fact a great hall of a Roman was
one

vast

arch, unsupported except

owe

vaults
was

much

to the

constructed.
were

We

have

pozzolana, record,

however, of
1

periodwhen

these walls

supposed insuflficient

Cassius mentions that the ceilingsof Halls of Justice in the Palatine practice painted by Severus to represent the starry sky. The old Roman for the magistrate to sit under the open sky, which was probablysuggestedthis kind of ceiling. Dion
were

The

Flavian

Palace

189

for the great weight,and had to be strengthened ; in interesting second wall was still the how which see of can confirmation we and Hercules added and united to the first. The basalt statues of

Bacchus,

now

in the

museum

at

Parma,
the

Appropriatelyopening from the Lararium, Tablinum a was others" as were the of members such family" Livia and many site was erected here altar on the original An deified after death. found. which have been from bits by Signer Rosa, have visited were which Hitherto the chambers we open to the but his immediate none family and attendants public ; beyond this, enter the We a courtyard follow the now could Peristyle, emperor. with arcades ornamented which was open to the sky,but surrounded amused that the empresses with statues, where we imagine may
birds and flowers. Hence, by a narrow of an earlier house, attributed into rooms which formerly by many authorities to the age of Augustus and Livia, the tw^o divisions of the Palatine stood in the valley between remains of gildingand fresco, and an which retain unearthed, window An in stucco. artistic group remains, and it will original built it was be recollected, on looking at it, that when this was afterwards of the hollow the not subterranean, but merely in valley, themselves with
can

in 1724. of the family picture-gallery privatechapel for the worship of

were

found

here

their

we staircase,

descend

filled up.

surrounded Triclinium or dining-room, by a of pavonazzetto with a cornice of giallo. The apse has skirting in the describes Tacitus scene sectile a beautiful a pavement. opus Tiberius is triclinium,in which the Emperor represented imperial side his the mother, at on one aged dinner, as having reclining widow of his niece other and the on Agrippina, Empress Livia,
We
now

reach

the

German while

icus and granddaughter of the great Augustus.^ It was at seated a the banquet in the imperial family were step-brother triclinium, of the time of Nero, that his young swallowed the cup and Claudius of Britannicus Messalina) (son to had caused Locusta the Emperor of poisonwhich prepare, and sisters Antonia and his couch, his wretched sank back dead upon the ghastly feast, not daring to give expression and Nero horror the to their griefand merely desiring to carry the boy out, and attendants saying that it was a fit to that Marcia, the concubine, Here it was he was which subject.'^ presented the cup of drugged wine to the wicked Commodus, on his return from a wild-beast hunt, and produced the heavy slumber In this during which he was strangledby the wrestler Narcissus. had who his short his also successor room Pertinax, reign spent very resuscitate reform the the months in to of three State, trying ' inflicted by finances, and to heal, as far as possible,the wounds received the news that the guard, impatient the hand of tyranny,' had risen against him, and going forth to of unwonted discipline,

Octavia,

also

seated

at

"

1 Ann. iv. 54. Tac. Anil. xiii.18 ; Suet. Ner. 33 ; Diou. Ixi. 7.

190
meet

Walks
his covered fell, assassins, says

in Rome
with

wounds, just in front of the

palace.^
that every house has a well-arrangedKoman dining-roomopening into a nymphaeum ; and accordingly here, on the right, is a Njmiphaeum, with a beautiful fountain surrounded by filled with bronzes and statues. miniature Water niches, once was conveyed hither by the Neronian aqueduct. The pavement of this of which of oriental alabaster, room was fragments remain. Large windows to the Triclinium, that the opened from the Nymphaeum banquetersmight be refreshed by the splash of the fountain. The magnificenceof the Palace of Domitian (Imp. a.d. 81-96) is of Statins, extolled in the inflated verses who describes the imperial of the abode of Jupiter as losing dwellingas excitingthe jealousy itself amongst the stars by its height, and rising above the clouds of the sunshine ! Such was into the full splendour the extravagance that Plutarch compares displayedby Domitian in these buildings, wished him be made of gold. This to to Midas, who everything of many of the tyrannical vagaries of the scene probably was
"

Vitruvius

Domitian.
he proposed,"saj's Dion, made a great feast for the citizens, once to a select number entertainment of the highest it up with an nobility. He fitted up an apartment all in l)lack. The ceilingwas black, the walls were black, the pavement was black, and upon it were ranged rows of bare The guests were introduced at night without their atstone seats,black also. tendants, and each might see at the head of his couch a column placed, like a with the cresset lamp above, name was graven, tombstone, on Avhich his own such as is suspended in the tombs. Presently there entered a troop of naked lx)ys, fore blackened,who danced around with horrid movements, and then stood still bethem, offeringthem the fragments of food which are commonly presented to the dead. The guests were to paralysed with terror, expecting at every moment the others maintained be put to death ; and the more, as a deep silence,as dead themselves, and Domitian spake of things pertaining to though they were the state of the departed only." But this funeral feast was not destined to end be in to and when he had Caesar a sportive mood, happened tragically. to enjoyed his jest,and had sent his visitors home expecting worse sufficiently follow,he bade each to be presented with the silver cup and platteron which his and dismal had been served, and with the slave, now neatly washed supper the way Such, said the populace, was apparelled, who had waited upon him. to solemnise the funereal banquet of the in which it pleased the emperor in the city.'" victims of his defeats in Dacia, and of his perseciitions Metivale, ch. Ixii.

'"Having
follow

"to

It
'

was

in this

palacethat

the murder

of Domitian

took

place.

in the Capitol, the august assessors ilinerva was Of the three great deities, Her stood side his image Domitian by his bedpatroness. as special regarded by But him her now a dream oath divinity. apprised was his by customary ; disarmed by the guardian of the empire, and that the guardian of his person was his daughter to protect her favourite any longer. that Jupiter had forbidden and petulantly cried,and the Scared by these horrors,he lost all self-control, whom he will!" Jove "Now strike From itself a portent: superwas cry he reverted again and again to earthly fears and suspicious. natm-al terrors, without to be admitted to his presence none Henceforward the tyrant allowed the of in he ends the caused corridor which and he searched ; being previously took exercise to be lined with polished marble, to reflect the image of any one time he inquired anxiously into the horoscope of behind him ; and at the same fear whom he as a possible rival or successor. chief might every
1

See Gibbon, i. 133.

Murder

of Domitian

191

' had long since,it was said,ascertained too surely The victim of superstition lie had learnt too tlie year, the day, the hour which should prove fatal to him. The now omens were sword. closing about the the to die he tliat was by thing, more importunate and overwhelming. "Somevictim, and his terrors became shall talk of all the to happen, which men he exclaimed, "is about world over." Drawing a drop of blood from a pimple on his forehead,"May him, declared that the hour His attendants, to reassure he added. this be all," with and rushing at once to tale alacrity, the flattering had passed. Embracing that the danger was of contldence,he announced the extreme over, and that he just then would bathe and dress for the evening repast. But the danger was ripening witliin the walls of the palace. The mysteries there enacted, few, indeed, could penetrate,and the account of Domitian's fall has been coloured he suffered to attend in by invention and fancy. The story that a child,whom which he had placed under his tablets chance the found his private chamber, by with his pillow, and that the empress, on inspecting them, and findingherself, for execution, contrived a plot for his assassination, familiar servants,designated most great suspicion. But neither can is one so often repeated as to cause we accept the version of Philostratus, who would have us believe that the of Clemens, a freedman the deed of a single traitor, of Domitian was murder and his at to fury by patron's death, urged named indignant who, Stephanus, alone into the tyrant's his patron'swife, Domitilla, rushed the sentence on him with chamber, diverted his attention with a frivolous pretext,and smote It is more in his sleeve. likely that the design, the sword he bore concealed to several of the household,and that means common however it originated,was victim and battle his cries for assisfance. the disarm to them taken aniong were in personal strength, may excelled have to who is said have been Stephanus, employed to deal the blow ; for not more, perhaps, than one attendant would Struck in the groin, but not mortally, into the presence. at once be admitted but found the sword at his own removed snatched from its Domitian weapon, He then clutched the assassin's dagger, cutting his own scabl)ard. fingers to the bone ; then desperately thrust the bloody talons into the eyes of his assailant, upon and beat his head with a golden goblet,shrieking all the time for help. Thereand despatched him as he lay in rushed Parthenius, Maximus, and others, ch. Ixii. writhing on the pavement.'" J/e?i'va7(;,
. . .
'

has described the hopeless condition of one who should attempt to fly of the almost wrath omnipresent imperator. But this dire impossibility in the end dreadfully retaliated upon that imperator : of escape was found everywhere ; and the vindictive or the persecutors and traitors were ambitious sul)jectfound himself as omnipresent as the jealous or offended There no was open, says Gibbon, from Caesar : true ; but escape emperor. of the Caesars was The crown there any escape for Caesar. fore thereneither was be admitted, that never in this world have of thorns ; and it must a crown rank and power been purchased at so awful a cost of tranquillity and peace of mind. absolutelysaturated with the blood of The steps of Caesar's throne were the murderous those who had possessedit : and so inexorable was fate which at that it demanded length the spirit of that existence, gloomy overhung "The Caesars.' martyrdom in him who ventured to ascend it.'" De Qtiincey,
'

from

Gibbon the

which closed the principal reach the portico We now apartments Some of its Corinthian pillars south-west. the of the palace on found. have been re-erected on the sites where From they were down walls look some of hence can we grand republican upon times, formed of huge tufa blocks,which have been buried under the artificialplatformof Domitian. much Passing a space of ground, called, without authority, small Theatre on reach the edge of the hill, a Biblioteca, we because the Emperor by Pliny, and interesting as described to have been especially who is known fond of reciting Vespasian, did here. Hence so his own we look probably compositions, may the Palatine and Aventine, where the valley between down upon and upon the site of the Circus the rape of the Sabines took place,

192
Maximus.

Walks

in Rome

hence From we imagine that the later emperors may and the hunts in that circus,when surveyed games they did not descend into the to care amphitheatreitself. is (partially the grand staircase Beyond this,on the right, restored) the to once platform leading occupied by the Temple of Jupiter Victor, vowed by Fabius Maximus during the Samnite war, in that he would the assurance the gain victory. On the steps is a which retains sacrificial altar, its grooves for the blood of the
an inscription statingthat it was erected by Cn. M. F. Calvinus, Pontifex' Domitius who was a general under Julius Caesar, and consul 53 B.C. and 40 B.C. Beneath the temple chambers used as cisterns for storing subterranean are water. the under Oppositethe temple are remains of a largehypocaust, floor of which remains, with the square pilaeon which the upper

victims, with

'

"

floor rested. broad of steps cut in the tufa rock, reach We a now flight of Caci A little chamber Solinus.^ the Scalae in the tufa probably flanks the stairs was wall which probably a fountain or cistern. for find no remains, because this we distance, some Beyond this, for clear : here, constantlyrenewed, stood always kept space was the Hut
'

of Faustulus

and

the Sacred

Fig-tree.

old Roman legend ran as follows : Procas, king of Alba, left two sons. suffered Amulius to wrest the the Numitor, elder,behig weak and spiritless, government from him, and reduce him to his father's private estates. In the enjoyment of these he lived rich,and, as he desired nothing more, secure ; but that might be set up by heirs of a different the claims dreaded the usurper He had Numitor's character. son murdered, and appointed his daughter,Silvia, of the Vestal virgins. one ' Amulius had no children,or at least only one daughter : so that the race of the love of a god on the point of expiring,when Anchises and Aphrodite seemed and gave it a lustre worthy of its in spite of the ordinances of man, prolonged it, origin. Silvia had gone into the sacred grove to draw water from the spring for the service of the temple. The sun quenched its rays : the sight of a wolf made her flyinto a cave : there Mars overpowered the timid virgin,and then consoled consoled Tyro, the daughter her with the promise of noble children, as Poseidon the tyrant, nor could the proof Salmoneus. But he did not protect her from testations to demand her. Vesta herself seemed of her innocence the consave demnation when of the unfortunate she was priestess; for at the moment delivered of twins, the image of the goddess hid its eyes, her altar trembled, and and her babes should be Amulius ordered that the mother her fire died away. Silvia exchanged her earthly life for that of in the river. In the Anio drowned the children were The river carried the bole or cradle, in which a goddess. lying,into the Tiber, which had overflowed its banks far and wide, even to the the Ficus Eumiualis, foot of the woody hills. At the root of a wild fig-tree, for at the foot of the held sacred which and centuries, was many preserved of the stream A she-wolf came to drink : she Palatine,the cradle overtiuned. heard the whimpering of the children,carried them into her den hard by, made When other food than for them, licked and suckled them.2 they wanted a bed Other birds milk, a woodpecker, the bird sacred to Mars, brought it to them. to auguries hovered over consecrated them, to drive away insects. This marvellous seen by Faustulus, the shepherd of the royal flocks. The spectacle was Acca nature. she- wolf drew back, and gave up the children to human Laurentia, The
1 2

instances were is nothing impossible in this story. Well-authenticated collected by Major Sleeman, in India,of boys carried off by wolves and nurtui-ed by them.

i. 18. There

The

Lupercal

193

their foster-mother. liis wife, became They grew up, along with her twelve in straw huts which they built for themselves : that the Palatine hill, sons, on down to the I'f Konuilus was preserved by continual repairs,as a sacred relic, fought bravelyagainst t inie of ^ ero. They were the stoute.-1 of the shepherd lads, wild beasts and robbers, maintaining their right against every one by their rades. might, and turning might into right. Their booty they shared with their comf abii : of Homulus called Quinotilii, those of Kemus The followers were Their wantonness the seeds of discord were engaged sown soon amongst them. fed their them in disputes with the shepherds of the wealthy Numitor, who and Cacus, flocks on Mount Aventine : so that here, as in the story of Evander find the ((uarrel between the Palatine and the Aventine in the tales of the we Remus taken by the stratagem of these shepherds,and remotest times. was of his dragged to Alba as a robber. A secret foreboding, the remembrance from prograndsons, awakened l"ythe story of the two brothers,kept Numitor nouncing The culprits' foster-father hastened with Romulus a hasty sentence. and the youths of their kindred. to the city, and told the old man They With their faithful and that of their house. resolved to avenge their own wrong had brought to the city,they slew the the dangers of Remus comrades, whom subject to Numitor. king, and the people of Alba again became which fate had assignedthem drew the youths back But love for the home and the shepherds, their old companions, to the banks of the Tiber,to found a citythere, This is the old tale,as it was written by their firstcitizens. were tory Fabius, and sung in ancient laysdown to the time of Dionysius.' Niebuhr's ' Hisof Home.
'
. . .
"

'

below the In the cliff of the Palatine, centuries the shown for many cavern was earliest times to the Pelasgic god Pan.
'

{Ficusrumincdis), fig-tree sacred from the Lupercal,

Romulus Hinc lucum ingentem, quem acer Asylum sub rupe Lupercal, Retulit,et gelidamonstrat Parrhasio dictum Panos de more Lycaei.' Aen. Virgil, viii.342.

La louve,nourrice de Romulus, a peut-etreete imaginee en raison des rapports mythologiques qui existaient entre le loup et Pan, defenseur des troupeaux. Ce qu'il y a de sur, c'est que les fetes lupercalesgarderent le caractfex'e du dieu en I'honneur duquel elles avaient et6 primitivement instituees et I'empreinted'une caractere un origine pelasgique; ces fetes au temps de Ciceron avaient encore Les Luperques qui pastoralen memoire de I'Arcadie d'oii on les croyaitvenues. de Pan, faisaient le tour de I'antique representaient les vSatyres, compagnons allaient frappant avec les Ces hommes nus sejour des Pelasges sur le Palatin. les femmes laniferesde peau de bouc, I'animal lascif par excellence, pour les rendre de Lukeia (les ft'condes ; des fetes analogues se celebraient en Arcadie sous le nom fetes des
i. 143.

'

dont loups),

le mot

est lupercales

une

traduction.'"

Ili^t.Mom. ^?"2;ere,

When
"

this was ' nostri.' mentioned iliaconditoris In the hut were casa specially several objects venerated as relics of Romulus. preserved
"

Furius, 390 B.C., appealed to the senate in speech not to desert the sacred spots of Rome,
M.

an

sioned impas-

l:

' On conservait le baton augural avec lequel Romulus avait dessine sur le ciel, s'etait manifeste le grand auspice des douze suivant le rite etrusque, I'espace ou dans lesquelsRome des douze siecles qu'en effet crut voir la promesse vautours van servirent destin devait lui accorder. Tons les augures se par la suite de bj\ton sacre, qui fut trouv6 intact apres I'incendie du monument dans lequel il it conserve, miracle paien dont I'equivalent pourrait se rencontrer dans plus Au me legende de la Rome On montrait chretienne. le cornouiller ne du bois de la lance tiue Romulus, avec la vigueur surhumaine dun demi-dieu, avait jet6e de I'Aventin sur le Palatin,oil elle s'etaiteufoucee daus la terre et avait produit un gi-andarbre.

VOL.

I.

194
'

Walks

in Rome

On
ce

vu

liens etait

montrait le Palatin le berceau et la cabane de Romulus. sur Plutarque a berceau,le Santo- Presepio des anciens Romains, qui etait attache avec des et sur lequelon avait trace des caracteres d'airain, mysterieux. La cabane seul 6tage, a un en planches et couverte de roseaux, que Ton reconstruisait

la detruisait ; car elle brula a diverses dont elle etait forniee fait croire facilela natui-e des materiaux ment. J'ai vu dans les environs de Rome cabaret rustique dont la toitm-e un etait exactement h celle de la cabane de Uomulus.'" pareille Ampere, Hist. Rom. i. 342.

pieusement ce reprises,

chaque fois qu'une incendie

que

the Velabrum, we ilex trees, supposed to be found remains of a Temple of Cybele, from the colossal female figure in it. On this side of the hill was the Palace of Tiberius,^ near which he was he resided during the earlier part of his reign,when Here under the influence of his aged and imperious mother Livia. he had to mourn for Drusus, his only son, who fell a victim (A.D. 23) to poison administered to him by his wife Livilla and her lover, the favourite Sejanus. Here also,in A.D. 29, died Livia,widow of * ful Augustus, at the age of eighty-six,a memorable example of successartifice, having attained in succession, by craft if not by crime, of female ambition.^ It every object she could desire in the career of the Tiberiana Domus from the windows that Tacitus describes was Vitellius as watching the burning of the Capitoline Temple of and the fightbetween his adherents and the partisans of Jupiter, under Sabinus. Vespasian of arches remaining are those of the soldiers' quarters. The row of a ship. In anIn the fourth arch is, or was, a curious graffito other at different times the three pavements in use be seen may above another. "insitu, On the terrace above these arches has one recentlybeen discovered a large piscina or fishpond ; beneath, on of a building, discovered the paintedchambers the right, are 1S69, which is supposed to have been the House brother of Drusus (elder A vaulted of Tiberius)and Antonia.^ staircase leads down to the the different public rooms Several of atrium on which the open. in decorated of fresco earlier date than are rooms richly paintings has the pictureof a street with figuresof those of Pompeii ; one and of ladies at their toilette ; another females going to a sacrifice, of Mercury, lo, and Argus ; and a third of Galatea, and the Cyclops From the names of the Polyphemus with Cupid on his shoulders. in characters representedin these pictures being affixed to them Greek, we may naturallyconclude that they are the work of Greek inscribed lead pipes found in the to the wall are artists. Fixed reach with house. is entirely of the area The north-eastern corner occupied by the built againstthe side of the vast ruins of the Palace of Caligula, still remains, and consisting hill above the Clivus Victoriae, which of ranges of small rooms, communicating with open galleries, edged In these rooms of which a portion exists. by marble balustrades,

Turning along the terrace which of buildings crowned a block

overhangs

Hist. Tacitus, It is sometimes

i. 77 ; Suet. Vitell. 15. called the House of Livia, sometimes

Merivale, ch. xlv.

of Germauicus.

the House

196

Walks

in Rome

devoured his last and fatal supper of poisoned dearly loved eating, mushrooms, which his next lovingwife (and niece), Agrippina, pared prefor her son Nero upon the throne.^ for him, to make way The Clivus Victoriae commemorates the Temple of by its names to said have been founded the Sabine before by Victory,^' aborigines and the time be to the earliest temple at Rome of Romulus, of which there is any mention This temple except that of Saturnus. rebuilt by the consul L. Postumius. Some remains of the was found in 1725-28 behind S. Maria Liberatrice. temple were Chief of a group of small temples,the most famous of the Temples of the Gods,' stood at this corner of Cybele, Mother of the Palatine. the 'Sacred Stone,'the form under Thirteen years before it was built, had been brought from which the Idaean Mother was worshipped, in Phrygia, because, according to the Sibylline Pessinus books, of had which stones showers occurred be could piated exfrequent only It was by its being transported to Rome. given up to the Romans by their allyAttalus, king of Pergamus, and P. Cornelius brother of Africanus" the younger accounted the worthiest Scipio, virtuous of the Romans sent to receive it. As the and most was vessel bearingthe holy stone came up the Tiber, it grounded at the declared that only chaste the aruspices foot of the Aventine, when it. Then the Vestal Claudia drew the hands would be able to move
' ' '
"

vessel up the river

by

rope.

' Suedoise morte h Rome, prouva Ainsi Sainte Brigitte, sa purete en touchant Une statue fut erigee a Claudia dans le le bois de I'autel, qui reverdit soudain. seule epargnee vestibule du temple de Cybele. Bien qu'elleeut ete,disait-on, n'avons plus cette statue,mais nous dans deux incendies du temple, nous avons miraculeux est represente. C'est lui au Capitole un bas-relief ou I'evenement affranchie de la (jens Claudia ; il a ete trouve au autel dedie par une pied de celui oii avait ete opere le miracle. I'Aventin, pres du lieu qu'on designaitcomme "Ampere, Hist. Rom. iii.142.

surmounted by a cupola, its face to the east, and Cybele in ended that Servius calls it a the stone, which point so sharp of the the head. The relic was Matris place Deum, occupied acus in his and It was stolen by Heliogabalus placed private museum. found (as described by Mgr. Francesco Bianchini)in 1730, and then adorned with and a The was lost. paintingof Corybantes, temple acted in front of it.^ playswere In her
was was

temple, which

round

and

representedby

statue

with

' Qua madidi sunt tecta Lyaei, Et Cybeles picto stat Corybante tholus.'

Martial,Ejh
This rebuilt

i. 71,9.

temple, after its second by Augustus in A.D. 2.

destruction

was by fire,

entirely

' la grande mere, c'est-u-dire la personCybele est certainement la grande deesse, : bizaire idole qui presente le niflcation de la fecondite et de la vie universelle

1 2 3

Tac.

Ann.

xii. 67 ; Suet.
;

Claud.

44.

Livy, xxix. 14. Hist, the of City of Rome. Dyer's

i. 32 Dionysius,

Temple
spectacle hidenx enveloppe dans
de mamelles
une

of Apollo

197

paircs le long d'un corps comme et des abeilles, des taureanx images On honorait de la nature. des forces creatriccs et des puissances ordonnatrices cette d"iesse de I'Asie par des orgies furieuses,par un melange de ddbauche des flfites son dansaient au effrenee et de rites cruels ; ses protres eflfdniintis i\ celles semblables de v^ritables et ses castagnettes, que fait crotales, lydiennes dansant la fougueuse saltarelle. On r^sonner aujourd'hui le paysan romain en d'un chef de ces bas-relief d'un archigaUe, du Oapitole I'effigie voit au musde en les ttiites, les de la d^esse lui les attributs de et asiatique, pretres insens^s, pr6s air de femme, sa son et la myst^rieuse corl"eille. Cet archigaUe, avec crotales, de demence i ^ une robe qui conviendrait religieuse femme, nous retrace I'espece ii. 310. s'associaient les d61ires -4?ni)ere, d'Heliogabale.'" JEmp. laquelle pervers disposees par
iraine,et d'oii sortent

the authority of Martial ^ that in the immediate bourhood neighof the temple of Cybele stood the Temple of Apollo, though Signer Rosa places it on the other side of the hill in the Its remains have yet to be discovered. gardensof S. Buenaventura. We have 'Nothing could exceed the magnificence of this temple, according to the accounts of ancient authors. Propertius,who was present at its dedication,has devoted a short elegy to the descriptionof it,and Ovid describes it as a splendid structure of white marble.
"

claro surgebat marmore Turn medium tempi um, Et patria Phoebo carius Ortygia. Auro Soils erat supra fastigia currus, Et valvae, Libyci nobile dentis opus. Altera dejectos Parnassi vertice Gallos, funera Altera moerebat Tantalidos. Deus Deinde inter matrem ipse,interquesororem, Pythius in longa carmina veste sonat." El. ii.31. Propertius, Inde tenore pari gradibus sublimia celsis Ducor ad intonsi Candida templa Dei." Ovid, THst.

"

M. iii.

1. 59.

From the epithetatirea porticus,it seems probable that the coniice of the it was surrounded of African portico which were gilt. The columns marble, or have been fifty-two in number, as between them giallo antico, and must the statues of the fiftyDanaids, and that of their father, were brandishUig a naked sword.
"

'

Quaeris

veniam tibi tardior? Aurea Phoebi cur Porticus a magno Caesare aperta fuit. Tota erat in speciem Poenis digesta columnis : Inter quas Danai foemina turba senis." Propert. El. ii.31. ubi sunt altema columnis Signa peregi-inis Belides,et stricto barbarus ense pater." Ovid, THst. iii.1.

"

61.

Here also was a statue of Apollo sounding the lyre,apparently a likeness Augustus ; whose l)eantywhen a youth, to judge from his bust in the Vatican, might well entitle him to counterfeit the god. Around the altar were the images of four oxen, the work of Myron, so l)eautifully sculptured that they seemed alive. In the middle of the iK)rtico the temple, apparently of white marble. rose Over the pediment was the chariot of the sun. llie gates were of ivory,one of them sculptured with the story of the giants hurled down from the heights of
of

'

other representing the destruction of the Niobids. Inside the the statue of Apollo in a tunica talaris, or long garment, between his mother Latona and his sister Diana, the work of Scopas, Cephisodorus, and I'imotheus. Under the base of Apollo's statue Augustus caused to be buried

Parnassus,the
was

temple

Ep.

i. 70.

198

Walks

in Rome

the Sibylline books, which he had selected and placed in giltchests. Attached to the temple was ever, Graeca et Latina, apparently,howa librarycalled Bibliotheca only one structure,containing the literature of both tongues. Only the choicest works of a place in it, to the honour infer admitted wei'e as we may from Horace : "Tangere vitet Scripta,Palatinus quaecunque recepit Apollo." Up. i. 3. 16.
'

The

libraiy appears
we

high
In

; whence

must

to have conclude

feet contained statue of Apollo, fifty a bronze that height. that the roof of the hall exceeded

this library, or more probably, perhaps, in an adjoining apartment, poets, orators, and philosophers recited their productions. The listless demeanour of the audience such occasions seems, from the description of the younger on to seems Pliny, to have been, in general, not over-encouraging. Attendance have been considered as a friendlyduty.' Dyer's City of Rome.'
'
"

The Temple of Apollo was built by Augustus to commemorate the battle of Actium. He appropriatedto it part of the land covered with houses which he had purchased upon the Palatine ; another part he gave to the Vestals ; the third he used for his own
"

palace.
'

Phoebus

habet partem ; Vestae pars altera cessit tertius ipse tenet. Quod superest illis, Stet domus
; aetemos

tres habet

una

deos.'
iv. 951.

Ovid, Fast.

Apollo and Vesta Augustus :

'

Thus

became,

as

it were,

the household

gods

of

Vestaque Caesareos inter sacrata penates, Et cum Caesarea tu, Phoebe domestice, Vesta.'

Ovid, Metam.
Other

xv.

864.

temples

on

the Palatine

were

that of Juno

Sospita:

Matri, mensis, Phrygiae contermina Pi'incipio Sospitadelubris dicitur aucta novis.' Ovid,Fast. ii. 55. of Minerva

Sexte,Palatinae

cultor facunde Minervae, Ingenio fnieris qui propiore Dei.' Martial, Ep.

v.

5.

and

From Farnese

10). temple of Moonlight mentioned by Varro (iv. the Torretta del Palatine, an interesting building of times destroyed in 1884, which stood near the house of of Rome view hills t here the was over seven a magnificent Caligula, ; the Palatine, Aventine, Capitoline,Coelian, Quirinal, Viminal, to remember Esquiline. From this point also it was very interesting
a
"

' that these were the Seven Hills in not the heights considered as the sacrifices of the Septimontiuni the ancient historyof Rome, when offered upon the Palatine, Velia, and were Germale, the three divisions of the Palatine" of which no one can longer be traced; the and the heights of Fagutal,^ secondary Oppius, Cispius, upon the Esquiline; and upon the Suburra, which perhapscomprehended

'

So called from

its beeches.

Wall

of Romulus

199

the Viminal.^ Hence also we could see the ground we have traversed the Palatine spread before us like a map. on If we descend we the staircase in the Palace of Caligula, may massive remains of find near the site of the Porta Romanula some the Temple of Awiustus built after his death by Livia and Tiberius, and continued by Caligula. By a hanging bridge above this temple the tops (supra templum divi Augusti ponte transmisso) and over used to pass, of the houses in the valley,the half-mad Caligula the more that he might, as he said, easilyhold intercourse with his comrade Jupiter upon the Capitol, The bridge was decorated supportedon corbels bearing arches, and the side was in situ. with stucco reliefs. Part of its marble balustrade remain which used for his One of the piers beyond the bridge, Caligula formed limits of the palace,was by the Temple of Augustus, built Tiberius.with other works of Caligula, This was bridge, by many of very short duration,being destroyed immediately after his death friend
and

The Porta Romanula itself by Claudius. built his palace. long before Caligula

was

probably destroyed

of S. Maria the church some Here, behind Liberatrice, are Julius the remains which of to believed are Regia belong to Caesar. If we turn to the left,we shall find that against the escarpment of the Palatine behind S. Teodoro remains of an are early concrete wall of imperialdate, behind which the tufa rock is visible. The wall is only built where and the the tufa is of a soft character, concrete still retains the impressionof supporting timbers, which themselves have rotted away. Here also are fragments of bases of towers times. of republican of the hill Near the western corner is a portion of the earliest wall of the Palatine, usually known of Romulus, but more as the Wall probably of Tarquinius Prisons, built in largeoblong blocks, without mortar The stone or cement.'^ used was with the brown tufa of the Palatine, which is studded piecesof pumice stone and charred wood, and is evidentlyformed by the hot ashes of a volcano falling upon forest.
est le meme que dans les villes d'Etrurie et dans est moins les rois etrusques. Cependant I'apparell d'une petite ville du Latium aventurier ne fondle par un iLi^ulier. Les niurs des villes de rEtnirie, pays tout autrepouvaient etre aussi soignt^s que les murs iiiont civilise. La petite cite de Romulus, bornee au Palatin,n'avait pas I'impordes Tarquins, qui couvrait les huitcollines. tance de la Rome ' Du reste,la construction n'avait dans est etrus((ue et devait I'litre. Romulus habitee iiar des patres et des bandits, personne sa ville, qui ffttcapable d'en batir Les Etrusques, grands batisseurs, I'enceinte. etaient de I'autre c6t6 du fleuve. le mont I'avaient probablement passt^dejA, et habitaient Quebpies-uns meme Coelius. Romulus dut s'adresser t\ eux, et faire faire cet ouvrage des archipar tectes et des niacons etrusques. Ce fut aussi selon le rite de I'Etrurie, pays sacerdotal, (pie Romulus, suivant en cela I'usage6tabli dans les cites latines, fit I'enceinte de la ville nouvelle. II sigit consacrer en cette circonstance comme agit un paysan romain, quand il appelleun pretre pour b^nir I'emplacement de la mai.son "iu'il vent batir.
'

Le syst^me de construction
par

la nniraille biUie :\ Rome

1 2 ^

Festus, 340, 348. Suet. Tib. 47, Cal.

21. 22 ; Tac. Ann. Tlie real wall of Romulus must have

vi. 45. been a

mere

earthwork.

200
'

Walks

in Rome

Les details de la ceremonie la premiere enceinte de par laquellefut inaugiu-^e Rome ont 6te transmis par Plutarque,i et avec nous un grand detail par Tacite,2 qui sans doute avait sous les yeux les livres des pontiles. Nous connaissons avec exactitude le contour que tra^a la charrue sacr^e. Nous pouvons le suivre encore

aujourd'hui.
Romulus attela un taureau hlanc et une vache blanche k une charrue dont le 6tait d'airain.3 L'usage de I'airain a precede a Rome, comme partout,I'usage du fer. II partit du lieu consacre de par I'antique autel d'Hercule,au-dessous des Pelasges,et,se dirigeant Tangle occidental du Palatin et de la premiere Rome le sud-est,trac^a sillon le long de la base de la colline. vers son ' Ceux qui suivaient Romulus rejetaientles mottes de terre en dedans du sillon, image du Vallum futur. Ce sillon etait I'Agger de Servius Tullius en petit. A I'extremit^ de la valine qui separe le Palatin de I'Aventin, oil devait etre le grand et on est aujourd'hui la rue des Cerchi,il prit k gauche, et, contoumant la cirque, le savoir la route a tracer sans colline, continua, en creusant toujours s"n sillon, qui devaient suivre un jour les triomphes, puis revint au point d'oii il etait parti. La charrue, I'instriiment du labour, le symbole de la vie agricole des enfants de De meme de la cit6 guerri^re de Romulus. Saturne, avait dessin4 le contour avait la charrue sur le sol qu'elle on faisait passer quand on avait detruit une ville, Par la,ce sol devenait sacrd,et il n'^tait pas plus permis de I'habiter occupe. qu'il ne I'etait de franchir le sillon qu'on creusait autour des villes lors de leur le fit Romulus le flrent toujours depuis les fondaet comme fondation,comme teurs d'une colonic ; car toute colonic etait une Rome.' Ampere, Hist. Rom. i. 282,
soc
"

'

the wall are remains of a rock cistern, reached by two circular shafts from the upper part of the hill. Close under this,the northern side of the walls of Eomulus, ran the Via Nova, down which Marcus Caedicius was returning to the in the when the sacred grove this between at city gloaming, spot, and the Temple of Vesta, he heard a supernaturalvoice biddinghim the senate of the approach of the Gauls. After the Gauls to warn invaded had and Kome departed again, an altar and sanctuary recorded the miracle on this site.^ At the corner S. Anastasia are remains of houses, apparently near of the time of Tiberius, built against the cliff. Near this were steps hut to be those the to Cacus,^ called the Stairs of leading supposed the of Faustulus. On the other side, Pulchri Littoris, the Gradus the spot called koXt] aKTTj of Plutarch, led to the river.^ This was
Romulus Germalus in remembrance of the twin brothers (germani) and Remus, who are believed to have been cast ashore by the swollen Tiber and suckled by the wolf near this. The statue of the wolf now found close by. in the Capitol was times was covered disHere a remarkable travertine altar of republican in 1820, and remains DEO in situ. It is inscribed SEI SEI
DEIVAE

Behind

SAC.

SEXTIVS

C. F. CALVINUS

PR

"

DE

SENATI

SENTENTIA

altar mentioned Some this be the RESTITVIT. suppose of the mysteriabove as erected to the Genius Loci, in consequence ous C. S. of of the tribune the Gallic invasion. father The warning in the inscription Calvinus mentioned consul with C. Cassius was and is Cicero described B.C. as a 124, by gracefulorator Longinus, of a sicklyconstitution.''
to

actual

1 4

Pint. Romul. xi. Cic. De Div. i. 45 ;

Tac. Ann.
32.
7
"

xii. 24.

3 6

Livy,v.

Solinus,i. 18.
34.

Pi-ell.R. Myth. 456. Sol. 2. piut. Rom.

Cic. Bmt.

Tlie Paedagogium

201

under have been discovered of chambers this a number the to the of wall and ancient Palatine,belonging the steep bank palaceby house of one Gelotius, bought and added to the imperial tlie used afterwards as Paedagogium, or school Caligula. It was which they for the court pages, and retains a quantity of graffiti mentary elethe a t had been walls. the scratched previously They upon and testified school called paedagogium ad caput Africae, there at being transferred from the rod of their master their delight ' de exit Corinthus paedagogio;' as to the palace in such inscriptions

Beyond

(now destroyed) paedagogio.' Another of an sketch ass school-life of a was hardships aselle quomodo Labora turning a corn-mill,and the superscription I have as little tibi' et laboravi donkey, ('Work, proderit ego graffito, thee'). The most interesting worked, and it will profit
afer 'Marianus allusion to the exit de
'

to the fourth chamber, has been removed executed believed been have to It is generally Septimius Severus, and to have been done in of the soldiers occupying these rooms, idle moment an by one supposed to have been used as guard-chambers under that emperor. allusion to the If so, it is perhaps the earliest existingpictorial of the It is a caricature apparently of our Saviour's death. manner end of the second century, evidently executed in ridicule of a has an ass's head, the cross The figure christian fellow-soldier. on

found (1857) in the Kircherian Museum. the during reign of

and by the Alexamenos

'

worshipping figureis his God} worships

inscribed

in Greek

characters,

hostile to it [the worship The lowest orders of the populace were as intelligently cature carithat remarkable the philosophers. Witness of the Crucified] as were discovered ten of our some crucified Lord, which was of the adoration It is of Palatine a the ruins the sketch,traced, beneath rough palace. years ago of the earliest years of some slave in one in all probability, by the hand pagan presented of the third century of our A human era. figure with an ass's head is refixed to a cross, while another figure in a tunic stands on one as side. Tliis figureis addressing himself to the crucified monster, and is making neath Underthe customary expression of adoration. a pagan gesture which was Here we are adores his God. there runs a rude inscription"^ lexamenos in the days Church face to face with a touching episode of the life of the Roman half there and As under a a of Severus or of Caracalla. later, Nero, so, century of Caesar. But the paganism of were worshippers of Christ in the household than hostile to the Church and the later date was more bitterly intelligently had shed the blood of the apostles. The Gnostic invective the paganism which criminately indiswhich attril)nted to the Jews the worship of an ass was applied l)y pagans to a legend to Jews and Christians. Tacitus attributes the custom " and respecting services rendered by wild asses to the Israelites in the desert ; dering thence presumed that we, as borTertullian,"it was so, I suppose," observes the Jewish were taught to worship such a figure." Such a religion, upon caricaturist. to the piu-ix)ses of a pagan once was storj', easilyadapted current, from Whether ignorance of the forms of christian worship, or in order to make to its pagan his parody of it more man admirers, the draughtsgenerallyintelligible devotee. has ascrH)ed to Alexamenos But the real the gestures of a heathen Jesus Christ,we be sure, object of his parody is too plain to be mistaken. may menos. had other confessors and worshippers in the imperial palace as well as AlexaTlie moral pressure of the advancing Church was felt throughout all ranks
1

Some

authorities
a

now

contend

that the

was graffito

figurewith

the jackal'shead, representing

which deity,

only a Gnostic device of a had its origin in the

Egyptian Anubis,

202
of pagan

Walks
society ; ridicule

in Rome

invoked to do the work of argnment ; and the moral was crowned all true christian devotion was often only the prelude to a sterner test of that loyalty to a crucified Lord which insensible as was to the misrepresentations,as christian faith was dom. superior to the logicof heathen'i"Z/M?rfo?i, Bampton Lechires 0/I866, Lect. vii. p. 593,

persecution which

These
which

chambers
many

acquirea great additional interest from the belief

that

entertain

they
S. Paul

are was

Praetorian Guard, in which

those once confined.

occupied by

the

' The close of the Epistle to the Ephesians contains a remarkable example of the forcible imagery of S. Paul. Considered the descriptionof simply in itself, the Christian's armour in the sacred volume. is one of the most strikingpassages But if we view it in connection the Apostle with the circumstances with which was and living emphasis in his enumeration of all surrounded,we find a new the parts of the heavenly panoply," the belt of sincerity and truth, with which the loins are girded for the spiritual the breastplate of that righteousness war, the inseparable links whereof are faith and love," the strong sandals,with which the feet of Christ's soldiers are made ready, not for such errands of death and despair as those on which the Pi'aetorian soldiers were dailysent, but for the universal message of the gospel of peace, the large shield of confident trust, whei'ewith of the the whole is protected, and whereon the fiery arrows man Wicked One fall harmless and dead, the close-fitting the helmet, with which the sword of the hope of salvation invests the head of the believer, and finally, the Word of God, which, when tion, wielded by the Great Captain of our SalvaSpirit, turned the tempter in the wilderness to flight, while in the hands of His chosen Apostle (with whose memory the sword seems it inseparably associated), became the means of establishingChristianityon the earth. ' All this imagery becomes S. Paul that when doubly forcible if we remember wrote the words he was and in the close neighbourhood of chained to a soldier, of the Praetorian The appearance military sights and sounds. guards was daily familiar to him; as his "chains," on the other hand (so he tells us in the PraetoHu'tn well known succeeding Epistle),became throughout the whole (Phil.i. 13). A dift'erence of opinion has existed as to the precise meaning of the word in this passage. in the Authorised Some have identified it, as Version, with the house of Caesar on the Palatine : more commonly it has been supposed to mean of the Praetorian that permanent camp lished guards which Tiberius estabthe north of the city, outside the walls. As regards the former on the word to be used, almost use opinion, it is true that the word came as we "palace," for royal residences generally or for any residences of princely splendour. Yet we never find the word employed for the imperial house at Rome ; and we believe the truer view to be that which has been recently advocated but the quarters of that part namely, that it denotes here, not the place itself, of the imperial guards which in immediate the emperor. attendance was upon The emperor of the troops,and it was natural was praetor or commandei'-in-chief that his immediate It might, indeed, guard should be in apraetorium near him. be argued that this military establishment the Palatine would on cease, to be of that when the Praetorium established ; but the purpose was necessary camp establishment had preto concentrate the city those cohorts which near was viously the been dispersed in other parts of Italy: a local body-guard near of the to be necessary palace would not cease ; and Josephus, in his account in connection with the "royal imprisonment of Agrippa, speaks of a "camp" Such house." conceive to have been the barrack immediately alluded to by we of these smaller S. Paul ; though the connection quarters with the general of the such that he would known to " all the rest was camp natm-ally become guards, as well as those who might for the time be connected with the imperial household. 'S. Paul tells us (in the Epistle to the Philippians) that throughout the of Christ,and Praetorian quarter he was well known as a prisoner for the cause from he sends specialsalutations to the Philippian Church the Christians of the
" " " " "

"

Padre Garucci, S.J.,has 'Graffito Blasfemo.'

publishedan
Eoma, 1857.

exhaustive

monograph

on

this

now

brated cele-

204

Walks

in Rome
Non fallimur, inquam Jovis esse domum.
'

Cujus ut accepi dominum,

Et

magni

verum

est hanc

Cur tamen

apposita velatur janua lauro, Cingit et augustas arbor opaca fores ?

Ovid, Trist.
'

iii.El. i. 33.

Palatinae laurus, State, praetextaque quercu Stet domus deos.' ; aeternos tres habet una Fast. iv. 953.

before the gate of this palace that Augustus upon was one in sat as a beggar, day receivingalms from the passersevery year by, in obedience to a vision that he should thus appease Nemesis. Behind the gardener's house above the slope of the hill, the semicircular form of the front of the House of Augustus is visible, whence the emperor could look down the in the Circus games upon Maximus. But even the lower part of the valleyhas been greatly filled up, and to reach the real level of the house it would be to descend of forty feet below S. Anastasia, w^here some necessary the chambers are exposed. At the pointwhere we are now, if we ascend (with an order) the staircase behind the gardener's house, reach till recentlybelonged to the the cypress garden which we thence, with lights,descend a long staircase convent, and may and halls, leading to the third story of the palace,vast chambers in all marbles of their splendid proportion,stripped by precious an vendor, who rented them for the purpose in the last antiquity century, and which, lightedfrom above, must always have been Behind the house of Augustus some gloomy in the extreme. place the site of the great Temple of Apollo Palatinus (seep. 197). which is now turned into a convent, villa, (The saracenic-looking frescoes painted by Giulio Eomano from designsof some possessed b ut these have been in deference removed or Kaffaelle, destroyed to the modesty of the present inhabitants.) Ascending the hillside by a path through a little orange -garden, "reach the remains of a Stadium for foot-races,with a we large semicircular exedra, or stand for viewing the sports,probably At the entrance and finished by Hadrian. are begun by Domitian under Hadrian commemorative two pedestals,evidently removed from the house of the Vestals. Hence enter the grand ruins, we which are by far the most picturesque part of the palace of the in soil before 1861. These Caesars, and the only part not embedded ruins are now supposed to be remains of the Palace of Hadrian, in the later buildings swallowed of Severus. Few compositions up than of finer the brick those formed be can stately by huge masses arches, standing out against the soft hues and delicate blue and and formerly laden with a campagna, shrubs. Beneath and other flowering wealth of laurustinus, cytisus, the terrace is a fine range of lofty chambers arches, framing on of the and the deserted convents lovelyglimpses of the Alban hills, This was the portionof the palace which Pseudo-Aventine. longest Heraclius in the remained and which inhabited was entire, by shadows pink, of the distant seventh The

It

century.
into Septizonium of Severus* which

part of

the

palace of

Septizonium of Severus
Hadrian
of
so was incorporated, erected 210 feet building, high, was

205
its
seven

called
A.D.

from 198, and

stories

finally destroyed

for the building of off its materials by V., of S. Peter's. It was by Severus at the southern corner strike the eyes of his the palace,in order that it might at once He built two other African compatriots^ on their arrival in Rome. the Esquiline near the edifices which he called Septizonium, one on he intended baths of Titus, and the other on the Via Appia, which where his son the burial-place Geta of his family, and as was Sixtus who carried erected

actuallyinterred.
There was of the probablya gate of Roma Quadrata at this corner Palatine. The remaining ruins in this division of the hill, supposed cally to be those of a theatre, a library, "c., have not yet been historiidentified. of all its ornaments the palaceof his predecessors Trajan stripped in us,'^ but it was restored by to adorn the temple of Jupiter Capitol ^ and occurred in his which enriched after fire a Coramodus, reign, and almost till the by Heliogabalus,-* every succeeding emperor, time of Theodoric.^
'

from perfecter ages, a spirit yet, amid loss,change, and corruption, abide ? Does there a spirit know we not, though seek ; though we And, comprehend Hereto entice and confuse, tempt and evade us, abide ? Lives ill the exquisitegrace of the column disjointedand single, Haunts the rude masses of bricks garlanded gaily with vine, E'en in the turret fantastic surviving that springs from the ruin. E'en in the people itself? is it illusion or not?'

Is it illusion ? or does there

Here,

even

not.

Clough.
and ascendingthe Clivus Victoriae, way we came, shall find ourselves again on the eastern slope of the hill from which the site once we started, occupied by so many of the great residence on the Palatine caused whose the name families, patrician of palaceto be afterwards residences. noble at one to Here applied time lived Caius Gracchus, who, to gratify the populace, gave up hie house on the side of the Palatine, and made his home in the lived Here also his coadjutorin the consulship, gloomy Suburra. Fulvius Flaccus, who shared his fate,and whose house was razed to the ground by the people after his murder. At this corner of the hill also was the house of Q. Lutatius and Catulus,poet, historian, builder of the Tabularium, who was consul 102 B.C., and together with Marius was in a great battle near of the Cimbri conqueror Vercelli. In memory of this he founded Fortuna a temple of the a nd of decorated his house with the portico Cimbrian hujusce diei,' roof.^ trophies. Varro mentions that his house had also a domed Here also the consul Octavius, murdered the Janiculum on by the rebuilt with great partisans of Marius, had a house, which was

Returningby the

we

'

Septimiiis Severus
a 2 5

was

bora

to one i)")eiii

of his

Martial, xii. Ep. 75.

Cassiod. vii. 5.

Statins adA.D. dresses 146, near Leptis in Africa. ancestors,Sept. Severus of Leptis, * 3 Diou Cass. Commod. Lamprid. Elagah. 8.
6

j)e Re Rust. iii.5.

206

Walks

in Rome
adorned
two

by Emilius Scaurus, who magnificence marble thirty-eight feet high.^ These the wealthy Clodius,who bought by
about

it with

last-named

columns of houses were

gave

14,800,000 sesterces,or

"130,000,for that of Scaurus, and throwing down the Porticus Catuli,included its site,and the house of E, Scaurus, in his own member of the great house a magnificentdwelling. Clodius was of the Claudii, and was the favoured lover of Pompeia, wife of Julius Caesar,by whose connivance, disguised as a female musician, he attempted to be present at the orgiesof the Bona Dea, which
celebrated in the house of the Pontifex Maximus, close to the were so carefullyexcluded Temple of Vesta, and from which men dared not that even show himself there. a male Juvenal, mouse, says that of The position of his own and the Pontifex,close to dwelling, for this the foot of the Clivus Victoriae,afforded every facility in it discovered his himself the but was adventure, by losing passages the result : Caesar of the Regia. A terrible scandal was divorced who Pompeia, and the senate referred the matter to the pontifices, of sacrilege.Clodius attempted to declared that Clodius was guilty that he was showed evidence but Cicero's with him an alibi, prove
were

before he pretended to be at Interamna. Bribery and intimidation secured his acquittal by a majority of but from this time a deadly enmity ensued to twenty-five,^ thirty-one him and Cicero. between leads us to that of Cicero,which The house of Clodius naturally of the Palatine, whence also situated at this corner he could was and go to and fro to his duties there. his clients in the Forum see had been built for M. Livius Drusus, who, w^hen his This house architect proposed a plan to prevent its being overlooked, answered, ' Rather build it so that all my fellow-citizens may behold thing everythat I do.' In his acts Drusus seemed to imitate the Gracchi ; for its own but he sought popularity sake, and after being the in the was object of a series of conspiracies, finallymurdered in mother his his where the of own hall, Cornelia, image presence with his blood. When of his father was dying he turned sprinkled to those around him, and asked, with characteristic arrogance, will the When based perhaps upon conscious honesty of purpose, commonwealth After the death of have a citizen like me again ? Licinius inhabited L. Crassus Drusus the house was the orator, by who lived here in great elegance and luxury. His house was called, and was of the Palatine,' remarkable from its beauty, 'the Venus and the beauty of its grounds. for its size, the taste of its furniture, of Hymettian marble, with adorned with pillars It was expensive His and with brass. triclinia inlaid were provided gardens vases, noble lotus -trees shaded his walks. with fishponds, and some found fault with such Ahenobarbus, his colleaguein the censorship, corruption of manners,^ estimated his house at a hundred million, or, accordingto Valerius Maximus,^ six million sesterces,and comin Rome
' ' '

only three hours

xxxvi. Pliny,
3

2.

gee Smith's

Plin. H.

N. xvii. 1.

Diet, of Roman Biography. " Val. Max. ix. 1.

House
of ])lainc(l daughter. his

of Cicero

207

the loss of a lamprey as if it had been a at the call It was lamprey,which used to come Crassus retorted by a public of Crassus and feed out of his hand. his and his by colleague, great powers of ridicule speech against ^ tion turned him into derision, jestedupon his name ; and to the accusathan that it was more of weeping for a lamprey, replied, of his three wives.^ of the loss had for done Ahenobarbus any after his a Cicero purchased the house of Crassus year or two and thither removed about to for "30,000, consulate a sum equal close His house was to from the Carinae with his wife Terentia. enabled him which the hill, that of Clodius, but a little lower down

crying for
a tame

to threaten

to increase

the

so height,

as

to shut

out

his

neighbour's

Clodius of the city.'-* Upon his accession to the tribuneship and after his to of the Cicero, flight Greece, disgrace procured He then pillaged obtained a decree of banishment against him. the Palatine, as well as his villas at and destroyed his house upon and Formiae, and obliged Terentia to take refuge with Tusculum the Vestals, whose was fortunatelyher sister. But in the superior and revulsion of the popular of consuls following year, a change found led to the recall of Cicero, who favour part of his house view

by Clodius, who appropriated

a

statue
on

tomb)

had erected a shrine to Libertas (with carried off from courtesan a that of a Greek which was he had razed to the the site of the remainder, which

ground.2
' he appears to have of Catulus : in fact, Clodius had also destroyed the portico He wanted to buy been desirous of appropriatingall this side of the Palatine. Seius having declared that so long as he lived the house of the aedile Seius. Clodius caused him to be poisoned, and then bought Clodius should not have it, to erect a portico three thus enabled ! He was his house under a feigned name The hundred feet in length, in place of that of Catulus. latter, however, was restored at the public expense. afterwards 'Cicero obtained public grants for the restoration of his house and of his but very far from the losses he Formian and enough to cover Tusculan villas, to have envied and The aristocratic part of the Senate had suffered. appears to whose abilities they looked for protection. He was homo grudged the nomis It was advised not to rebuild his house on the Palatine,but to sell the ground. but he was not in Cicero's temper to take such a course, hampered ever after with debts. Clodius, who had been defeated but not beaten, stillcontinued his persecutions. He organised a gang of street boys to call out under Cicero's His band Bread!" interrupted the dramatic perfomiances windows, "Bread! On the stage. by rushing upon the Palatine, at the Megalesian games, on in another occasion,Clodius, at the head of his niynnidons, besieged the Senate to the danger of his He attacked Cicero in the streets, the Temple of Concord. the masons, he had begun to rebuild his house, drove away life ; and when what overthrew part had been re-erected of Catulus's portico,and cast burning torches into the house of Quintus Cicero,which he had hired next to his brother's ' the Palatine,and consumed a great part of it.'" Dyer's City of Home,' p. 152. on

The

indemnity

which
on

to rebuild his house

Cicero received from the Palatine amounted

the

State in order

to about

"16,000.

Suet. Nero, 2. 'Tollam altius tectum, delere voluisti. cam, quam * Cic. Pro. Dom. ad Pont.
3
"

2 non

Sniith's DM.
ut ego te

of Roman

despiciam, sed

Biography. urbem tu aspicias ne

Z"e Uarusp. Mes. 15. 42.

208

Walks

in

Rome

The the

house
same

of time other

Quintus

Cicero the householders house

soon

was

rebuilt

close architect

to

his of the

brother's

at

by

Cyrus,

fashionable
on

day.^
was

Among
Mark

noble whose

this

part

of

the

Palatine

Antony,^
and

was

afterwards which it
was

given
burnt

by

Augustus

to

Agrippa

Messala,

after

down.

1
2

See Dion

Ampere,
Cass.

Hist. liii. 27.

Rom.

iv.

528.

CHAPTER
THE Gregorio" SS. Giovanni
Villa

VII
COELIAN

^.

Arch of Dolabella" S. Toniniaso in Formis e Paolo" S. Stefano Rotondo" Maria della Navicella" Mattei"S. I Santi Quattro Cleniente. Incoronati-S.
"

"

from S. John Lateran Hill extends to the Vigna of of Egeria to the Capena, and from the Fountain of S. Gregorio. Till very recently it has been entirely Convent of the Camaldolese, Passionist,and uninhabited, except by monks Redemptorist Orders, and by the Augustinian Nuns of the Incohas been more ronati ; but no part of Rome cruellydealt with since district. the change of government than this interesting the of this hill Mons name In the earliest times was Querquetulanus, ' The Hill of Oaks,' and it was clothed with forest, part of wood remained the sacred of the which Camenae. It first as long received its name of Coelius from Coelius Vibenna, an Etruscan is said to have come to the assistance of of Ardea, who Lucumo in his war Romulus againstthe Sabine king Tatius,and to have established himself here. In the reign of Tullus Hosafterwards assumed tilius the Coelian some importance, as that king fixed hither the Latin population of his residence here, and transported Alba. As the Coelian had a less prominent share in the history of Rome it preserves than any of the other hills, historical scarcely any All those which of pagan times. existed under the monuments republicwere destroyedby a great fire which ravaged this hill in the reign of Tiberius,^ except the Temple of the Nymphs, which stood in the grove of the Camenae, and which had been once already burnt by Clodius, in order to destroy the records of his falsehoods and debts which it contained.^ Some small remains in the garden of the Passionist convent attributed to the temple are which Agrippinaraised to her husband the Emperor Claudius, and in S. Stefano Rotondo the Macellum some of antiquaries recognise Nero. There are no remains of the palace of the Emperor Tetricus, who lived here, 'between the two sacred groves,'^ in a magnificent whom he received under here at Aurelian, a banquet,at captivity hich he exhibited an allegorical his reception picture representing Coelian THE the Porta
1

Dyer'sHome,
I.

p. 222.
3

Amp6re,

Ilist. Jiom. iv. 4G0.

O

Trebellius 209

Pollio.

VOL.

210
of the

Walks

in Rome

empire of Gaul, and of a Eoman simple insignia

his subsequentresignation of it for the senator.^

To the christian visitor, however, the Coelian will always prove of the deepestinterest ; and the slight thread of connection which between all its principal runs to objects,as well as their nearness them within the limits of one another, brings pleasantly a single day's excursion. Many of those who are not mere passingvisitors will probably find that their chief pleasure at Rome lies not amid of the well-known the great basilicas and palaces,but in sights the decaying quiet walks through the silent lanes and amid distant of these hills. As of these more as possible buildings many have been destroyed since the change of government, but a few (1896)stillremain.

' will come The recollection of Rome back, after many years, in images of long delicious strolls, in musing loneliness, through the deserted ways of the ancient its hills, over ruins, to reach some city ; of climhing among vantage-ground for and looking beyond on the glorious chains mapping out the adjacent territory, of greater and lesser mountains, clad in their imperial hues of gold and purple ; entrance into the cool solitude of an open basilica, and then, perhaps, of solemn where thought now rests,as your body then did, after the silent evening yom" from many well-remembered nooks every local inscriptio prayer, and brings forward of art,the characteristic feature of each, or lovely monument every The with which it is associated. Liberian the great names speaks to you of of Calvary and its touching and its treasured mysteries ; the Sessorian, Bethlehem relics. Baronius gives you his injunctions on christian architecture inscribed, lives in the fresh paintings of a as a legacy, in his title of Fasciola ; S. Dominic the walls of the opposite church of S. Xystus ; there stands faithful disciple, on the chair and there hangs the hat of S. Charles as if he had just left his own " the Cardinal of church, from which he calls himself in his signature to letters, S. Praxedes of S. Justin near it,in a sister church, is fresh the memory ; to heathen and senate, Martyr, addressing his apologies for Christianity emperor and his British spouse ; and far beyond the citygates the cheerful and of Pudens Philip2 is seen kneeling at S. Sebastiano,waiting for the door to the Platonia to watch the night through in the martyr's dorbe opened for him, that he may mitory.'" TTiseman's ^Life of Leo XII.'
"

with a pilgrimage nothing to compare myself, I must say that I know the Esquiline,the Coelian, and the scattered over the antique churches Hills. amid gardens and vineAventine yards They stand apart, each in its solitude, ruins ;" here a group of cypresses, there a lofty and heaps of nameless Sant' Achilleo or Santa pine or solitarypalm ; the tutelary saint,perhaps some heard of before altar rich in precious marbles never an we Bibiana, whom of porphyry the old frescoes dropping from the walls" the everlasting columns so colossal mosaics looking down solemn, so dim, so spectral; these grow upon the associations by us, until at each succeeding visit they themselves, and and may a part of our which be said to dailylife, they are surrounded, become in a right spirit. True, what considered that daily life when is most hallow is often desecrated to the fancy by the intrusion sacred, what is most poetical, of those prosaic i-ealitieswhich easilystrike prosaic minds ; by disgust at the recite them do not believe, foolish fabrications which those who by lying inscriptions, by tawdry pictures,by tasteless and even profane restorations ;" by much that offends, much that disappoints" but then so much that saddens, much to awaken, to elevate,to touch the heart ; so much that will remains ! So much that makes from the memory after-life.'" a part of our not pass away ; so much Mrs. Jameson.
'

For

among

"

"

"

the pass under walks known pleasant sunny We

may
1

Arch of Constantine, or through the di San Gregorio planted as the Parco

"

Gibbon, v.

1.

s.

FilippoNeri.

212

Walks

in Rome

' Cette ville incomparable renferme peu de sites plus attrayants et pins dignes Ce sanctuaire occupe d'6ternelle memoire. Tangle occidental du mont Coelius. de Caracalla et du II est a egale distance du grand Cirque, des Thermes des saints martyrs Jean et Paul. Le berceau du tout proche de I'eglise Colist^e, ainsi au sol trempe par le sang de tant de de I'Angleterre touche christianisme milliers de martyrs. En face s'eleve le mont Palatin, berceau de Kome paienne, Ou est done 1' couvert des vastes debris du palais des Cesars. Anglais encore pourrait conqui, en portant son regard du Palatin an Colisee, digne de ce nom la foi,le nom Chretien templer sans Amotion ce coin de terre d'ou lui sont venus et la Bible dont il est si fier. Voila ou les enfants esclaves de ses aieux etaient ! Sur ces pierress'agenouillaient ceux recueillis et sauves qui ont fait sa patrie a ete conQU une ame chretienne ! Sous ces voutes sainte, confle a Dieu, par et g^n^reux Chretiens, b6ni Dieu, accepte et accompli par d'humbles par les quarante moines ces le grand dessein ! Par degr^s sont descendus qui la sucont porte a I'Angleterre la parole de Dieu, la lumifere de I'Evangile, cession Montalembert, ' Moines apostolique et la regie de Saint Benoit ! d'Occident'
...
. . .

'

"

of S. Silvia, mother the house of S. Gregory, of Hard by was to the church of SS. Giovanni the ruins stillremain, opposite which in the little garden which still exists we believe 6 Paolo, and may his mother's Close to his care. that he played as a child under the monastery of S. Andrew, to which he founded mother's home he retired from the world, takingnothing with him but his favourite he dwelt for many cat, and in which years as a monk, employed in and the in writing homilies, enjoyment of visionaryconversation he believed to answer him in person from with the Virgin,whom which he knelt. To this before her picture monastery he presented with those of his father and mother, which his own were portrait, 300 after his death in this existence and portrait ; probably years that peculiar type of physiognomy of himself probably furnished of him.^ which we trace in all the best representations During the and poverty which led here by S, Gregory, he was life of penance sold all his goods for the benefit of the poor, retaining nothing but his him mother. One basin a silver day by given a poor shipwrecked several times to beg in the cell where he was sailor came writing, he gave him instead this one and, as he had no money, remaining A long time after S. Gregory savr the same treasure. shipwrecked sailor reappear in the form of his guardian angel,who told him that God had henceforth destined him to rule his Church, and become of S. Peter, whose charity he had imitated.^ the successor (A.D.590) va monter pour la premiere fois sur la chaire apostolique. de tons illustre ceux qui sont compte parmi les souverains Ce moine, plus d'un eclat qu'aucun de ses predecesseurs n'a egale et qui y rayonnera pontifes, I'institut dont il est issu. sanction supreme, sur comme une Gregoire, rejaillira, le Pape Leon I" qui ait re(^u a la fois, du conavtc le seul parmi les hommes de Saint et de Gi*and, sera I'^ternel sentement imiversel, le double surnom de la papaute. Par son genie, mais surcomme de I'Ordre b^nedictin honneur et I'ascendantde sa vertu, il organisera le domaine tout par le charme tempore! il fondera des papes, il developpera et r^gulariseraleur souverainete spirituelle, leur paternelle suprematie sur les royautes naissantes et les nations nouvelles et s'appelerla France, I'Espagne, qui vont devenir les grands peuples de I'avenir, age, la societe modeme I'Angleterre. A vrai dire,c'est lui qui inaugiu-ele moyen
'

Un

moine

le

et la civilisation chretienne.'"
1 2

Montalembert. Jameson. d' Occident.

Mrs.

Montalembert, Moines

S. Gregorio

213

of S. Gregory is approached by a cloistered court The church Carne, On the left is that of Sir Edward filled with monuments. sities univerof the obtain commissioners to foreign of the opinion one respecting the divorce of Henry VIII. from Catherine of to the court of to Charles V., and afterwards Arragon, ambassador Rome. He
was

recalled when

the

embassy

was

suppressed by

by Paul IV., who Elizabeth, but was kept at Rome he died here in 1561. a great affection for him, and
who
'

of an exile for the Catholic died 1567, inscribed

"

is that faith,

had conceived Another ment monuof Robert Pecham,

Roberto Pecham Anglo, equitiaurato, Philippiat Mariae Angliae et Hispan. virtute praeclaro,qui, cum olim consiliis patriam suam a religione regibus genera dolore non deticientem posset, relictis a fide catholica adspicere sine summo in liac vita carissima omnibus profectus exilium, esse sclent,in voluntarium qm\e sanctissime a Christi haredibus testamento institutis, sex post annos, pauperibus vita migravit.'

The
ancient

Church, rebuilt in 1734, under

granite columns
its monuments
we

and
may

has sixteen Ferrari, fine opus-alcxandrinum pavement. Francesco

observe

learned

that of Cardinal Zurla, a of the abbot who was on geographicalsubjects, It was characteristic of the laxityof convent. a curious adjoining that her friends did not morals in the time of Julius II, (1503-13), the of that famous hesitate to bury Aspasia age in this church, and

Among

writer

her tomb : Imperia, cortisana Romana, quae digna inter homines formae tanto specimen dedit. Vixit nomine, rarae xxvi. dies xii.obiit loll, die 15 August!.' But this monument annos been removed. has now memorating At the end of the right aisle is a picture by BadaZocchi, comtion, of elevathis spot,when, at the moment a miracle on
to inscribe upon
'

of S. Gregory, to the Host is said.to have bled in the hands It will of the truth of transubstantiation. convince an unbeliever of other representations be observed in most that in this and his shoulder,and whispering S. Gregory, a dove is perched upon that every of the impression into his ear. This is commemorative Ghost ; the word and act of the saint was Holy by inspired directly of belief first engendered by the happy promptitude Peter, his a the beloved libraryof archdeacon, who invented the story to save his master which was about to be destroyedafter his death by the in a pitiful of revenge, because they fancied that a people, spirit famine which had been them was decimating brought about by this picture is the extravagance of Gregory.^ An altar beneath decorated the same da Fiesole, representing of soul of the Emperor the story freed from purgatory by the intercession of Gregory. Trajan being (Chap. IV. p. 100.) The reredos belongingto this altar,moved from stillremains in the north-east chapel. its original site, A low door near this leads into the monastic cell of S. Gregory, with marble

reliefs, by Mino

miracle, and

also the

Milmau's

Latin

vol. Chriatianitij,

ii.

214

Walks
marble
Nocte

in Rome
the

containing his
inscribed
:
'

chair, and

spot where
'

his

bed

lay,

Gregoriusmodica
Here also
an

dieque vigillongo hie defessa labore membra levat. qiiiete

immense collection of minute relics of saints is exposed of the credulous. On the oppositeside of the church is the Salviati Chapel, the of in 1690 that noble modernised burial-place family, by Carlo Maderno. Over the altar is a copy of Annibale Caracci's picture of S. Gregory, which existed here, but is now in England. once On the right is the pictureof the Madonna which spoke to S. suddenly impressed Gregory,'and which is said to have become On the upon the wall after a vision in which she appeared to him. left is a beautiful marble dossale of the fifteenth century. sacristan will admit Hence the visitor into the Garden of S. a whence there is a grand view over the opposite Palatine. Silvia,
to the veneration
*

here or on the summit leads to the of the flightof steps which to the ruined look across the mind Palace of the Caesars, makes the rush of thoughts. There, before us, the Palatine Hill" pagan feet square, Rome in the dust ; here, the little cell, cloth where a few slept in sackof the Caesars, and first the man who the last blow to the power gave set his foot as sovereign on the cradle and capital of their greatness.' Mrs. Jameson.
stand

'

To

portal, and giddy with

"

restored by the historian Cardinal BaroHere are three chapels, nius in the sixteenth century. The first, of S. Silvia,contains a fresco of the Almighty with a choir of angels, neath by Guido ; and beit a beautiful statue of the venerable saint (especially invoked of the best Niccolo of statues Cordieri one by againstconvulsions), saints in Eome. The second chapel,of S. Andrew, contains the two famous rival frescoes of Guido and Domcnichino. Guido has represented in Andrew S. kneeling reverent thankfulness at first sightof which the cross he was to suffer ; Domenichino on a more painful the of the saint. Of Annibale these subject flagellation paintings Caracci observed that Guide's was the paintingof the master ; but Domenichino's the paintingof the scholar who knew than the more master.' beautiful group The of figures in the corner, where a terrified child is hiding its face in its mother's introduced is dress, in several other pictures of Domenichino.
"

"

"

'

'It is a well-known anecdote that a poor old woman stood for a long time before the story of Domenichino, pointing it out bit by bit and explaining it to with her ; and that she then turned to the story told by Guido, a child who was admired the landscape, and went It is added that when Annibale Caracci away. for giving the preferheard of this,it seemed to him in itself a sufficient reason ence to the former It is also said that when work. Domenichino was painting of the executioners, he worked himself up into a fury with threatening words one and gestures,and that Annibale, surprisinghim in this condition,embraced him, saying, " Domenico, to-day you have taught me a lesson,which is that a painter, like an orator,must firstfeel himself that which he would represent to others."
'
"

Lanzi, v.
'

82.

In historical pictures Domenichino in the is often cold and studied, especially principalsubject,while, on the other hand, the subordinate persons have much grace and a noble character of beauty. Thus, in the scourging of S. Andrew, a

Chapel

of S. Barbara

215

tlirust back by the executioners is of the highestbeauty. Guido's proup of women before fresco is of hi^'hmerit : 8. Andrew, on his way to execution, sees the cross and the executioners his knees in adoration him in the distance, and falls upon iL'Mi7i"?r. spectatorsregard him with astonishment.'"
"

S. Barbara, contains a grand statue of S. Gregory,by Niccolo Cordieri^ (where the whisperingdove is again he daily fed twelve represented),and the table at which poor after their feet. The Roman breviary tells how washing pilgrims occasion an angel appeared at the feast,as the thirteenth one on The third

chapel,of

guest. This story, the sending forth of S. Augustine, and other of S. Gregory'slife, events are representedin rude frescoes upon The in the Mirabilia as table is mentioned the walls by Viviani. devotion middle the of in the of twelfth an object century. The adjoining and is now Convent pied occu(modern) is of vast size, Camaldolese in the time of S. monks, though by Gregory it
the Benedictines. In its situation it is beautiful and have been so even in the time of S. Gregory,who the seclusion which he was often regretted compelledto quit.

belonged to
quiet,and
'

must

il s'etait jour,phis accable que jamais par le poids des affaires seculieres, lieu secretpour s'ylivrer dans un long silence k sa tristesse, et y fut un de ses rejoint par le diacre Pierre,son eleve,son ami d'enfance et le compagnon "A'ous est-il done arrive quelque chagrin nouveau," lui dit le chores etudes. ainsi plus triste qu'a I'ordinaire?" Mon jeune homme, "pour que vous soyez chagrin," lui reponditle pontife,"est celuide tons mes jours,toujours vieux par et toujours nouveau I'usage, ame se par sa croissance quotidienne. Ma pauvre dans notre monast^re, quand elle planait sur rappelle ce qu'elle etait autrefois, tout ce qui passe, sur tout ce qui change ; quand elle ne songeait qu'au ciel ; quand elle franchissait par la contemplation le cloitre de ce corps qui I'enserre ; I'entree de la vie. Et maintenant il quand elle aimait d'avance la mort comme lui faut, il cause de ma charge pastorale,supporter les mille affaires des hommes du siecle et se souiller dans cette poussiere. Et quand, apres s etre ainsi r^pandue elle ny revient qu'amoindrie. au dehors, elle veut retrouver sa retraite interieure, Je medite sur tout ce (lue je soutfre et sur tout ce que j'ai battu perdu. Me voici, h ma vie d'autrefois, il par I'ocean et tout brise par la tempete ; quand je peuse seml)le regarder en arrifere vers le rivage. Et ce qu'ily a de plus triste, me c'est l)allotte par I'orage, "iu'ainsi je puis k peine entrevoir le port que j'aiquitt^." Montalevibert, 'Moines d Occident.'
Vn

retir6 dans

"

'

"

to

years abbot of this convent, benefactor regretting generous the peace of his monastic life. always, like his great predecessor, His last words to his cardinals,who were imploringhim, for political expressive of singularly purposes, to conceal his danger, were this Per Dio, lasciatemi ! vogliomorire da f rate, non da sovrano.' The last great ceremony enacted at S. Gregorio was Cardinal when Wiseman mitred abbot of consecrated the Dr. English Cistercians

Pope Gregory XVI.

which he
was

was

for

some

afterwards

"

'

"

"

"

the prospects of English Catholicism. As Cardinal Manning he offered a sum of "1000 for to exist under excavating the house of S. Gregory,which is known the church to (as at S. Clemente, S. Martino, "c.),but permission
at
same

Manning preaching

the

time

on

1 Rome at least eightfine modern statues of saints : besides those of possesses S. Silvia and 8. Gregory, are the S. Agncse of Algardi, the S. Bibiana of Bernini, the S. Cecilia of Maderno, the S. Susanna of Quesnoy, the S. Martina of Menghino,

and

the S. Bruno

of Houdon.

216
excavate
was

Walks
refused

in Rome

of the Government, because he by the jealousy his in spiteof was a foreigner, being titular of S. Gregorio. The of the house of S. Gregory exists beyond the coalcrypto-porticus cellar of the convent. S. Gregorio and the Ascending the steep paved lane between Parco, the picturesque church on the left with the arcaded apse and tall campanile (c.A.D. 120G), inlaid with coloured tiles and hold marbles, is that of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, two officers in the houseof the Christian princessConstantia,daughter of the Emperor time they occupied a position of great influence Constantine, in whose Julian the Apostate came and trust. When to the throne, but they refused, he attempted to persuadethem to sacrifice to idols, of the emperor, but our souls saying, Our lives are at the disposal and faith belong to our God ! ' Then Julian,fearing to bring our them to public martyrdom, lest their popularityshould cause a and the example of their well-known fortitude be an rebellion, in encouragement to others, sent soldiers to behead them privately the spot, Locus martyrii their own house. Hence the inscription on SS. Joannis et Pauli in aedibus propriis.' The campanile rests upon part of a travertine arcade, supposed to have belonged to the Domus because he as a residence Vectiliana, bought by Commodus the scene of his could not sleep on the Palatine, and which was murder. connected It was with the Coliseum. by a crypto-porticus Titulus Pammachii, was built by Pammachus, The church, known as the site of the house of the saints. the friend of S. Jerome, on with It is entered eight ancient granite by a portico adorned erected been as columns, interesting by the English pope having The Nicholas 1158. interior,in the basilica Breakspear, A.D. form, has sixteen ancient columns and a beautiful opus-alexandriniim of the floor is a stone, railed off, In the centre pavement. upon it is said that the saints were beheaded. Their bodies are which in a porphyry urn contained under the high altar. In earlytimes these were the only bodies of saints preserved within the walls of Eome (the rest being in the catacombs). In the Sacramentary of S. Leo, in the Preface of SS, John and Paul, it is said, 'Of Thy not only the hast vouchsafed merciful providence Thou to crown circuit of the city with the glorious passion of the martyrs, but also to hide in the very heart of the city itself the victorious limbs of S, John and S. Paul.' ^ The ' very large and beautiful ' church of Pammachus was cruelly Cardinal Paolucci and his architect modernised Camillo Antonio by the tomb of Luke, Canevari, at the end of the XVII, c, when the friend of S. Cardinal of SS, Giovanni e Paolo, Bernard, which coffin used broken up, and his stood in the portico, was as a water' '
'

trough.
Beneath the altar the tribune are frescoes by Pomerancio. is preserved the embalmed the left of the tribune on body of S. festival is April28), Paul of the Cross (who died 1776, and whose
Above
1

See Roma

Sotterranea, p.

106,

SS. Giovanni
founder of the
Order

Paolo

217

inhabit the adjoining of Passionists, who The aged face bears a beautiful expression of repose ; convent. the body is dressed in the robe which clothed it when living.^In the right erected has been on honour of this saint a splendidchapel of the nave (1868-70), cased with precious alabaster and jaspers; Beneath the giftof Pius IX. were its two great alabaster pillars of Father Germanus the high altar of the church, the excavations in chambers 1887 several to evidentlybelongingto the brought light The walls have remains of the fourth century. house of a Roman wild beasts, sea-horses, "c. Several pictures of frescoes of peacocks, before the Burning Moses christian character of undoubted are with a in the catacomb of S. Calixtus) ; a woman, Bush (also seen outstretched with her : and arms veil a pearl necklace, praying, the earliest of Christ. These from the Passion are and scenes The outside the Catacombs. instance of christian frescoes found house contains fifteen rooms, and there are others stillunexcavated.
"

The
'

amphorae
murder
far

remain

in the cellars.
to have

ifauces) not

taken place in a narrow passage reception-room. Here we see the /enesallowed to behold and touch of which tella canfessivnis, pilgrims were l)ymeans Two visitor : the variety of the the venerable grave. things strike the modern fresco decorations of the house, which geniiholding festoons, begin with pagan of the third century, and end with stift, a tolerablygood work sentations repreuncanny of the Passion, of the ninth and tenth centuries ; second, the fact should have been buried and forgotten.' that such an important monument nie of the
from

saints seems the tablinum

or

"

Lanciani.

founded church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo at Venice was of from this The these saints convent. was by emigrants memory of honoured so much Pope Gregory the Great, that up to the time the eve of their festival was an obligatoryfast. Their festa (June 26) is still kept with great solemnities on the Coelian, when the railinground their place of execution is wreathed and laden with flowers. When is held at their church, the apse is the ' station The famous
'

illuminated.
Male visitors are admitted through the convent to its large and beautiful Garden, which side of the Coelian overhangs the steep towards there is a fine view between the Coliseum, of which its ancient site the Here on a near monastery are some cypresses. remains believed to be those of the temple built by Agrippina (c.A.D. 57), daughter of Germanicus, to the honour of her deified husband (and uncle) Claudius,after she had sent him to Olympus by feeding him with poisonous mushrooms. Nero, who wished to efface the memory of his predecessor, down this temple, on pulled the pretext that it interfered with his Golden House, but it was rebuilt under Vespasian. In this garden also is the entrance to the

Domine Jesu Cliriste.qui ad mysterium crucis praedicandum Sanctum Paulum in ecclesia familiam novam florescere singular! caritate donasti, et per eum voluisti ; ipsiusnobis intcrcessionc concede, utpassionem tuam jugitcrrecolentes in terris, coalis.'" Collect 0/ S. Paul 0/ the m ejusdem fructum consequi mereamui*

"

Cross,^lioinan Vesper-Book.'

218
vast

Walks
substructions known
as

in Rome

the Vivarium, whence the wild beasts who devoured the early christian martyrs were frightened by down tow subterranean into the The a arena. burning passage in ruins the part of the garden nearest to the Coliseum have been in which Vectiliana of Commodus, supposed to belong to the Domus he was murdered. follow the lane up the Coelian, we reach the richly Arch of Dolabella, erected a.d. 10, by the consuls P. Cornelius Dolabella and Caius Julius Silanus. Nero, building his aqueduct to the Palace of the Caesars,made of this,which use and included it in his line of arches. already existed, Above the arch is a Hermitage, revered as that where S. Giovanni de Matha Before he came to lived, and where he died in 1213. reside here he had been miraculously from Tunis (whither brought he had gone helm or sail, a mission)to Ostia, in a boat without on in which he knelt without ceasing before the crucifix throughout the whole of his voyage ! Passing beneath the gateway, we emerge upon the picturesque Piazza of the Navicella, the central pointof the Coelian, irregular which is surrounded and of buildings, by a most interesting group which contains an isolated fragment of the aqueduct of Nero, dear to artists from its colour. Behind the trees, is the this, under marble Navicella, which is supposed to have been originally a votive o f sailor stood this ; whose to a near offering Jupiter Redux, temple but which of the was adapted by Leo X. as a christian emblem Church the boat of S. Peter.

Continuingto
brick

tinted

"

'

The

allegory of

ship is peculiarly dwelt

was

upon

by the ancient Fathers.

of the close of life. But the christian idea, and to universal catholic its elevation or humanity, is derived directlyfrom the Bible" see, for instance,1 Peter iii. 20, 21. "Without doubt," says S. Augustine, "the ark is the figure of the city of God pilgrimisingin this world, in other words, of the Church, which is saved by the which wood Christ Jesus." on hung the Mediator between God and man, the man
a

ship entering the port

favourite

emblem heathen from individual

The in the days of same interpretation was recognised in the Latin Church Tertullian and S. Cyprian, "c. The bark of S. Peter is similarlyrepresented on found in the Catacombs, as sailing a Greek a fish, on probably Leviathan or gem, of the faithful, Satan, while doves, emblematical perch on the mast and sterntwo Apostles row, a third lifts up his hands in prayer, and our Saviour,approaching But the about to sink. the vessel,supports Peter by the hand when of in the is out to the carried its fullest extent fifty-seventh chapter allegory ship of the second book of the "Apostolical Constitutions," supposed to have been of the Apostles, in the fourth century.'" Lord Lindsay's compiled, in the name ' Christian Art,'i. 18.
. .

of convent the gateway of the deserted right is (first) founded called which S. Tommaso in was Formis, Redemptorists, at his first mass by S. Giovanni de Matha, who, when celebrating On the blue vision an angel robed in white, with a red and cross his breast, and his hands resting in benediction upon The the heads of two upon captives a white and a black man. of from Paris him Rome seek sent to to Bishop explanation Innocent his of dreams" celebrated as an interpreter III.,who was

Paris, beheld

in

"

220
'

Walks

in- Rome

Within the tribune are mosaics of the Virgin and Child seated on a throne, with angels ranged in regular rows each side ; and, at her feet, with imspeakon able stiffness of limb, the kneeling figureof Pope Paschal I. Upon the walls of the tribune is the Saviour with a nimbus, surrounded with two angels and the twelve apostles, and farther below, on a much larger scale,two prophets, who to point towards Him. The most remarkable appear thing here is the rich Besides the wreath of flowers (otherwise not a rare foliagedecoration. feature) which are growing out of two vessels on the edge of the dome, the floor beneath the figuresis also decorated with flowers seldom a graceful speciesof ornament at in the moroseness aimed of Byzantine art. From the decline into this point, utter barbarism is rapid.'"Kucfler. monks 'The Olivetan in inhabited the church and cloisters of S. Maria called in Navicella, from the rudely sculptured marble Domenica, commonly that stands on the grass before its portal,a remnant monument of bygone days, to which but which neither history nor tradition has given a name, has itself given one to the picturesque old church which stands on the brow of the Coelian Kill.'" Lady Georgiana Fullerton.
"

of the Church and that S. Lorenzo, deacon narrates martyr, dailydistributed alms to the poor in front of this church then the house of S. Ciriaca with whom he had taken refuge. is the round Church of S. Stefano Rotondo, dedicated Opposite, in been built on the site S. It 467. have to by Simplicius appears of an ancient circular building, and to have belonged to the great in this Macellum victual-market erected by Nero Magnum
A
"
" " "

tradition

used for service, except on S. Stephen's through a little Day (December 26) ; but visitors are admitted which stands of temp. beautiful in well of a cloister, proportions, Leo X." attributed to Michelangelo. The interior is exceedingly feet in curious architecturally.It is one hundred and thirty-three double in the with circle of granite a diameter, columns, thirty-six

quarter.^ It is seldom

enclosingtwo tall corinthian twenty in the inner series, In the centre with wall. two a cross columns, pilasters supporting is a kind of temple in which relics of S. Stephen (hisbody is are is an said to be at S. Lorenzo). In the entrance of the church read his from have which ancient marble seat S. Gregory is said to
outer

and

fourth The

homily.
walls
are

Tempesta. but as the Holy Innocents really They begin with the Crucifixion, suffered before our Saviour,one of them is representedlying on the stoning of S. Stephen,and Next comes each side of the Cross. the frescoes continue to portray every phase of human agony in the historical but an most are as showing revoltingdetail, interesting
with frescoes

lined

by Pomerancio

and

series of what

the

Roman

Catholic
"

Church

considers

as

the

best

authenticated

martyrdoms, viz. :

{S.
{SS.
1

Peter, crucified. S. Paul, beheaded. S. Vitale,buried alive. S. Thecla, tossed by a bull. S. Gervase, beaten to death.
Pi'ocessus, and Martinianus, beheaded. Pi-otasius, and others,clothed in skins of Ijeasts and S. Faustus to pieces by dogs.
Macellum is described
torn

See

Emile
;

Cassius,i. 18

Braun. The building of the Notitia,Reg. ii.

by Dion

S. Stefano

Rotondo

221

I'nder Doniitiaii

'S. .Tohn, boiled in oil (which he survived) at tlie Porta Latina. S. Cletus,Pope, beheaded. S. Denis, beheaded (and carrying his head). S. Domitilla,roasted alive. beheaded. ,SS. Nereus and Achilles,

rs. Ijjnatius,Bishop of Antioch, eaten

Coliseum. I'lider Trajan

by

lions

in

the

I S. Clement, Pope, tied to an anchor and I sea. VS. Simon, Bishop of Jerusalem, crucified.

thrown

into the

^S.Eustachio, his
I'luler Ifailrian

wife Theophista,and his children Agapita and Theophista, biu-nt in a brazen bull before the Coliseum. S. Alexander, Pope, beheaded. S. Sinforosa,drowned, and her seven sons martyred in
various ways.

Us. Pius, Pope, beheaded.

'

Under Antoninus Pius and Marcus Aurelius.

.

S. Felicitas and her seven S. Justus, beheaded. S. Margai'et.stretched on iron forks.

sons, martyred in various

a

ways.

rack,and

torn

to

pieceswith

Under and

Antoninus Verus
.

Blandina,tossed by [-S.
.

in a net. a bull, S. Attains, roasted on a red-hot chair. LS. Pothinus and others, burnt alive. torn to piecesby lions in the rSS. Perpetua and Felicitas, I Coliseum. and Zephyrinus, Leonida and Basil, beheaded. 1 SS. Victor [S. Alexandrina, covered with boilingpitch. into a well with a stone round S. Calixtus,Pope, thrown his neck. S. Calepodius, dragged through Rome and by wild horses, into the Tiber. tluown

Under Sevems calla

Septimius
and Cara-

Under Sevems

Alexander
....

fB. Martina, toni with iron forks.

Under Alexander Severiis
.

I S. Cecilia,who, failingto
"\
.

be suffocated with hot water, stabbed in the throat. I S. Urban the Pope, Hbertius,Valerianus, and Maximus, I, beheaded.
was

Under

and

Valerianus Gall ienus.

in Sardinia. S. Agatha, her breasts cut off. and Cornelius, SS. Fabian thage, Popes, and S. Cyprian of Carbeheaded. S. Trj'pl^on, burnt. SS. Abdon and Sennen, torn by lions. S. Apollonia, burnt, after all her teeth were pulled out. chair. ( S. Stephen, Pope, burnt in his episcopal S. Cointha, torn to pieces. S. Sixtus, Pope, killed with the sword. from a wall. S. Venantius, thrown the deacon, roasted on a gridiron. S. Laurence S. Hippolytus, torn by wild horses. and Semula, drowned SS. Ruflna in the Tiber. \ SS. Protus and Iliacinthus, beheaded.

/ S. Pontianus, Pope, beheaded

(Three
Under Clatidius II.
'

hundred burnt in a furnace. Christians, burnt with hot irons. S. Tertullian, S. Nemesius, beheaded. SS. Sempronius, Olympius, and Theoduliis, burnt S. Marius, hung, with a huge weight tied to his feet. and her children,martyred in different S. Martha ways. SS. Cyprian and Justinian,boiled. S. Valentine, killed with the sword.

222
S.

Walks

in Home
head downwards
over a

Agapitus (aged 15), hung

'

pan

of

Under Aurelian Numerianus

and
. .

Inscribed above are these words burning charcoal. from Wisdom : Properavit ut educeret ilium a seductionibus et iniquitatibus gentis suae.' S. Cristina,transfixed through the heart. S. Columba, burnt. SS. Crysanthus and Daria,buried alive.

fS.Agnes, bound
S.

to a stake, afterwards beheaded. Caius, Pope, beheaded. S. Emerantia, stoned to death. Nearly the whole population of Nicomedia martyred in S.

Erasmus,

different ways. laid in

coffin

into which

boilinglead

was

poured. to a column S. Blaise,bound and torn to pieces. S. Barbara, burnt with hot irons.
S. Eustathius Under and Diocletian Maximianus
ways.
.

and

his

companions, martyred

in different

S. Vincent, burnt on a gridiron. and Felicianus,torn by lions. SS. Primus S. Anastasia, thrown from a rock ? SS. Quattro Incoronati,martyred in various ways. SS. Peter and Marcellinus, beheaded. S. Boniface, placed in a dungeon full of boilingpitch. S. Lucia, shut up in a well full of serpents. S. Euphemia, run through with a sword. SS. Vitus, Modestus, and Crescentius,boiled alive. S. Sebastian, shot with arrows (which he survived). SS. Cosmo and Damian, Pantaleon, Satm-ninus, Susanna, Gornius, Adrian, and others, in different ways. of

'S. Catherine
Under Maxentius wheel. SS. Faustina soldiers. I

Alexandria, and

others, broken
with
a

on

the of

and

biu-nt Porfirius, died

worn

company

Is. Marcellus,Pope,
TT

out

by persecution.

"tJjin^r^^lo\ S. Peter, Bishop andLicmius

. .

,.

Tv,ro^?v,,;,i"a

( S.

Simon

and

1600

of

|^

cut into fragments. citizens, left to Alexandria, and forty soldiers, in

a

die,up

to their waists

frozen lake.

fSS. John
Under Julian
.

and

Paul, beheaded.
between two stones. in the Tiber.

xT^
' '

IS. Artemius, crushed

"\

Apostate

S. Pigmenius, drowned S. Bibiana, flogged to I the Forum.

death,and

thrown

for food to dogs in

of eminent The last picturerepresents the reunion martyrs (in Church includes Englishsufferers under Elizabeth), which the Eoman ' this verse from is inscribed and above Isaiah xxv, Laudabit : civitas robustarum.' gentium populus fortis,
'Au-dessus du tableau de la Crucifixion se trouve cette inscription: " Koi racheter le peche, il verra sa vie pour une glorieux des martyrs, s'ildonne post6rit6 sans fin." Et quelle posterite! Hommes, femmes, vieillards, jeunes tons tons enfants ! Comme savent hommes, jeunes filles, accourent, comme Cfne Chretienne a Rome.' mourir.'
'
"

' Les paiens avaient divinis^ la de Stael.

les Chretiens vie,

divinisferent la movt.'"

Madame

'

S. Stefano

Rotondo eminent

martyrdoms
of the most

of the Christians

the church, the a series of pictures all round in the so-called persecutions,with a general picture No doubt many martyrs since the triumph of Christianity.

exhibits,in

S. Stefano
of the

Rotondo

223

particular stories thus painted will bear no critical examination ; it is Gibbon statements that .accused the of has truly general likelyenough, too, But this is a thankless labour, such as Lingard and others have I xaggeration. and the Irish massacre with regard to the S. Bartholomew undertaken massacre, if you of reported martyrs by twenty" by fifty, of 1642. Divide the sum-total of all ages and sexes of persons will" but after all you have a number suft'ering and by their sufferand death for conscience' sake and for Christ's, ings cruel torments God's the of Christ's with triumph gospel. ensuring manifestly, blessing, consider the excellence of this martyr-spirit half Neither do I think that we enough. I do not think pleasure is a sin : the Stoics of old, and the ascetic of that excellent Christians since,who have said so (see the answers Pope man. Gregory the Great, to Augustine's questions,as given at length by Bede),have, of christian truth. in saying so, outstepped the simplicity and wisdom But, for Christ's thouijjhpleasure is not a sin,yet surely the contemplation of suffering needful to us in our sake is a thing most days, from whom, in our daily life, so far removed. And, as God's grace enabled rich and delicate sufferingseems and even proach children, to endure all extremities of pain and repersons, women, in times past, so there is the same less mighty now, and if we gi-ace no in a time of do not close ourselves against it,it might in us be no less glorified in that such times of trial will come, if not trial. And children, times, your my from the teaching of man's wisdom and of in mine, I do believe fully,both And therefore pictures of martyrdom God's. are, I think, very wholesome" not to be sneered excitement, but as a at, nor yet to be looked on as a mere to us of what Satan can do to hurt, and what God's grace can sober reminder of His people to bear. Neither should we forget those who enable the weakest not for themselves than conquerors, more were by their sufferings only, but for us, in securing to us the safe and triumphant existence of Christ's blessed faith "in securing to us the possibility, nay the actual enjoyment, had it not been for the Antichrist of the priesthood, of Christ's holy and gloriouseKK^-qcria, the congregation of Christ's people.'" J. rnoM's Letters. and commonwealth
' de Saint-Etienne-le-Kond est batie sur I'emplacement du On croit que I't^glise Macellum Aug\isti. S'il en est ainsi,les supplices des martyrs, hideusement de cette egiise, representos sur les murs rappellent ce qu'elle a remplace.'" Ampere, Emp. i. 270.

.'i des peintures pareilles celles de Santo Stefano, lieu au beaucoup de spectateurs par voie d'ediflcation chr^tienne, n'agissent montrez jamais le rouge au tam-eau, le sang au par voie de depravation. Ne la cruaute a I'animal humain.'"Emile tigre, Montcgut. Je

'

crains fort que

d'agir sur

The
anus,
'The Primus Father

first chapel contains some

mosaics

on

theleft, dedicated to SS. Primus delicate small mosaics.

and

Felici-

decorated brilliantly

altar of S. Stefano Rotondo of A.D. 642-649. are A is represented between two standing figures of S. and S. Felicianus. On the upper end of the cross duced) intro(very tastefully appears a small head of Christ with a nimbus, over which the hand of the in benediction.'" is extended ifw^rfer.
cross

of the small

In the next chapelis a very beautiful tomb of Bernardino Capella, Canon of S. Peter's,who died 1524. In a small house which formerly stood among the gardens in this and lived wrote. neighbourhood,Palestrina
de la chapelle Sous le regne de Paul IV.,Palestrina faisait'partie papale ; mais II se retira alors dans une II fut oblige de la quitter,parce qu'il etait marie. chaumiere perdue au milieu des vignes du Mont Coelius,et liX, seul,inconnu au durant de longs jours,i\cette extase de la pens^e qui agrandit, monde, il se livra, au-deli de toute mesure, la puissance creatrice de I'homme. Le ddsir des P^res du concile lui ayant ete manifesto, il prit aussitot une plume, ecrivit en tete de son cahier, " Men Dieu, edairez-moi ! et se mit i\ I'ffiuvre avec un saint enthousiasme. Ses premiers efforts ne repondirent pas b. Tid^al que son g6nie s'etait et les flots de poesie qui forme; mais peu ii peu ses pensees s'eclaircirent,
"

'

224

Walks

in Rome

inondaient son ame touchantes. se repandirenten melodies Chaque parole dn texte retentissait clairement, allait chercher toutes les consciences,et les exaltait dans una emotion La messe dxi pape Marcel trancha la question ; commune. et Pie IV. s'ecria, concerts apres I'avoir entendue, qu'ilavait cru assister aux des ^ Rome ii.195. anges.' Gouiiierie, Chretienne,'
"

lane of S. Stefano Rotondo skirted by broken fragments of Nero's aqueduct, but much spoiltby hideous gasworks and other modern buildings almost to its debouchment S. John reach the near Lateran, and then turning to the left, we of the Santi Quattro Inquaint fortress-like church and convent coronati, crowned by a stumpy campanile of 1112. The full title

Following the

"

"

is of this church I Santi Scultori Martiri ; the names

'

'

quattro Pittori Incoronati

which the Church

painters being Severus, Severianus,

and and those of the

i cinque e attributes to the Carpoforus, and Vittorinus ;

sculptors,Claudius, Nicostratus, Sinforianus,

who Diocletian.
"

Castorius, and

Simplicius

paint

idols for

all suffered for Their festa is

refusingto carve ber kept on Novem-

8th. founded the site of a Temple of Diana This church was on by rebuilt Honorius 850 ; and by Leo IV., a.d. I, A.D. 622; again rebuilt in its present form consecrated it by Paschal II., who It is approached through a double afresh in a.d. 1111. in court, ancient columns which are perhaps remains of the temple. many of larger Some antiquariessuppose that the church itself was once which form the its and that atrium now size, w^ere once pillars The interior is arranged on the English included in the nave. the triforium being occupied plan with a triforium and a clerestory, of the convent. The aisles are groined, the but nuns adjoining by has a wooden the nave ceiling.The inscribed pavement may be Behind the tribune is a vaulted called an epigraphic museum.^
"

passage, partlysubterranean.

The tribune contains a marble throne, with frescoes by Giovanni di San Giovanni.^ In the and is adorned of the of Damasus. aisle some verses are preserved Pope right Another inscriptiontells of the restoration of the church in the fifteenth century, and describes the state of desolation into which fallen
:"
'

it had

vides veteri prostrata ruina Haec quaecumque Obruta verbenis, ederis,dumisque jacebant.'

out of the court in front of the church is the little Chapel II. in 1140. It contains a series of of S. Silvestro, built by Innocent

Opening

very curious
'

frescoes.

art is the little chapel of S. Showing the influence of Byzantine upon Roman of of conversion Constantine the with a naivete the history Silvestro,detailing of the figures, constitutes which, with the exception of a certain dignity in some their sole attraction. They are indeed little better than Chinese paintings ; the last horse by the bridle, of the series, representingConstantine leading Pope Sylvester's walking beside him in his long flowing robe, with a chattah held over his head by attendant, has quite an Asiatic character.'" iorrf Lindsay's ^Christian Art.' an
1 2

Rome. See Lanciani, Pagan and ChHstian Best known by his comic pictures in the Uffizi at Florence.

S. Clemente

225

' not of the external, legendis the genuine reflex, Here, as in so many instances, see we but of the moral part of history. In this series of curious wall-paintings the mothers whose children consoled and laden with gifts, Constantine dismissing,

to provide a bath of blood, the remedy prescribed" but to be slauglitered were his punishment for persecutingthe which he humanely rejected" for his leprosy, the vision of see Church while he yet lingeredin the darlcness of paganism ; we the infallible S. Peter and S. Taul, who appear to him in his dreams, and prescribe for both physicaland moral disease through the waters of l)aptism; we see cure to seelc S. Sylvester, sent by the emperor eniissaries, finding that the moimted Soracte Blount that saint before the in on we see concealed a cavern ; pontiff of the two apostles to him the authentic pt^rtraits (saidto be emperor, exhil"iting at S. Peter's), stillpreserved picturesin which Constantine at once recognisesthe in his vision, forms seen assuming them to be gods entitled to his worship ; we the rite a background of fantastic architecture, see the imperial baptism, with both administered by immersion (the neophyte standing in an ample font)and the emperor is kneeling,to affusion ; we see the pope on a throne, before which offer him a tiara" no doubt the" artist intended thus to imply the immediate bestowal of temporal sovereignty(verygenerallybelieved the act of Constantine we in the firstflush of his gratitudeand neophyte zeal)upon the papacy ; lastly, himself leading his the pontiffriding into K.orae in triumph, Constantine see Another picturehorse, and other mitred bishops following on horseback. hand" quaintlyrepresentsthe findingof the true cross by evidentlyby the same of the S. Helena, and the miracle by which it was distinguishedfrom the crosses because a portion of that revered relic two thieves" a subject here introduced side treasures on one was deposited in this chapel, as an old inscription among The records. composition on these walls, which completes the series, lai-gest representsthe Saviour enthroned amidst angels and apostles. This chapel is now but and open for mass on only used for the devotions of a guild of marble-cutters, one Sunday" the last" in every month.'" Hematis' ^Mediaeval Christian Art.'
'

Ahi Costantin I di quanto mal fu matre, Non la tua conversion,ma quella dote Che da te prese il prime ricco patre."

Dante, Inf. xix.

In the fresco of the Crucifixion in this chapelan angel is represented of thorns and putting on a real crown, takingoff the crown incident nowhere else introduced in art. an The of the Santi Quattro was castellated Convent built by the and time as used as a papal Paschal II.at the same was church, palacewhile the Lateran was in ruins ; hence its defensive aspect, It is stillinhabited suited to the troublous times of the anti-popes. their numbers have but been by Augustinian greatlyreduced nuns, of since the change government. beneath the Incoronati,and in the At the foot of the Coelian, to the Lateran, is the Church street leadingfrom the Coliseum of the discoveries of the late Irish abbot. S. Clemente, to which Father Mullooly (who died June 1880),have given an extraordinary interest. The upper church, in spiteof modernisations under Clement XI. of the details belonging in the last century,retains more to primitive ecclesiastical architecture than any other building in Rome.
monument

contraires stratifl(5s, a des si^cles de croyances lui du temps de la r^publique,un autre du temps de I'empire, dans lequel on a reconnu im temple de Mithra,enfln une basilique de la primitive foi.' Zola, ' Rome.' 'S. Clement,
sous

lequelil y

tres ancien

"

consecrated in memory of Clement, the fellow-labourer of It was S. Paul and the third Bishop of Rome, upon the site of his family
VOL. I. p

226

Walks

in Rome

It was house. alreadyimportantin the time of Gregory the Great, who here read his thirty-third and thirty-eighth homilies. It was altered by Adrian I. in a.d. 772, and by John VIII. in A.D. 800, and who had been cardinal of again restored in a.d. 1099 by Paschal II., the church, and who within its walls. elected to the papacy was The greaterpart of the existing is thus either of the ninth building or the twelfth century. At the west end a porch, supportedby two columns, and attributed from which is to the eighth century, leads into the quadriporticiis, the entrance to the nave, separated from its aisles by'-sixteen columns evidentlyplundered from pagan buildings. Kaised above the nave and protectedby a low marble wall is the canceUum, preserving its and episcopal ancient pavement, ambones, altar, throne. Clemente, built on the site of his paternal mansion, and restored at the beginning of the twelfth century, an example is still to be seen, in perfect preservation, of the primitive church in statu quo" the court, ; everything remains the portico, the cancellum, the ambones, paschal candlestick, ciypt, and ciborium roof has and intact the wooden and a small disappeared, -virgin unfortunately ; chapel, dedicated to S. Catherine, has been added, yet even this is atoned for by I most especially recommend this relic of early the lovely frescoes of Masaccio. Yet the beauty of S. Christianityto your affectionate and tender admiration. Clemente is internal only,outwardly it is little more than a hsirn.'" Lord Lindsay.
In S.
'

other example in the world are from the lower church, the transennae, or piercedscreens, removed and S. Ignatius. where they stood in front of the relics of S. Clement the rightof the altar is of great beauty,and is surThe ciborium on mounted of the statuette little a precious by Magdalen. is the chapel of the Passion, On the rightof the side entrance clothed with frescoes of Masaccio,which, though restored, are very the altar is the Crucifixion ; on the side walls the beautiful ; over and S. Catherine. stories of S. Clement

Perhaps more

beautiful

than

any

'

The

celebrated

series relatingto S. Catherine

is stillmore

strikingin the grace

of its principalfigures refinement :" ' 1. S. Catherine (cousin of the Emperor ' of Maximin. 2. She converts the empress is seated inside a prison, and the empress

and

to worship idols. She is seen through a window seated outside the prison,opposite to her, in refuses Constantine)

graceful listeningattitude. is beheaded, and her soul is carried to heaven 3. The empress by an angel. 4. Catherine philosophers. She is standing in the disputes with the pagan the other, as in the act of of one hand laid on midst of a hall,the forefinger dressed with gi-eat simplicity demonstrating. She is represented fair and girlish, The sages are ranged nor in a tunic and girdle" no crown, any other attribute. lost in thought, others in astonishment each side, some on ; the tyrant (Maximin) we is seen behind, as if watching the conference ; while through an open window of their behold the fire kindled for the converted philosophers,and the scene
a
'

'

execution. ' is delivered from the wheels, which are broken by an angel. 5. Catherine In the background, three angels lay her in a sarcophagus 6. She is beheaded. ' Sacred Art,'p. 491. the summit Sinai.'" See Jameson's of Mount on
'

enthusiasm for art would not allow him to "Masaccio," says Vasari, "whose rest contentedly at Florence, resolved to go to Rome, that he might learn there added to surpass during this journey, which, in fact, every other painter." It was much to his renown, of San Clemente, the chapel that he painted, in the Church account of which now on so usually disappoints the expectationsof the traveller, the successive restorations by which his work has been disfigui-ed. The heavy
'
.
. .

228

Walks
on

in

Rome

evidently intent
Son
"

(with the pope that it in his and was nimbus, showing painted lifetime), square the Leo dominus, Romanus,' inscription, Sanctissimus Papa
a

in

this

fresco

the

watching the figure of

retreating figure

of

her

Divine

is introduced

'

probably
Descent with
most

Leo

III. Hades

or

into

Pope interesting of all

S.

Nicholas

IV. ; the Maries at the Sepulchre ; the of S. Cyril, ; the Marriage of Cana ; the Funeral I. (858-67) walking in the procession ; and, the
"

Leo

probably
that of of his

of somewhat S. church Clemente

and masonry

later

of

Clemente,
in bear the the

and

Alexis, whose
in the de and
a

the story adventures are

"

date

described

account
names

Aventine. Attilia.

The Beneath

paintings
Maria this

of their

donor, Beno

Rapiza, his wife

passage of 18(57 rich
near

Macellaria, and

his children
a

crypt, approached by great interest, as showing

and republic,
"

staircase
once a

narrow

at

the third

of the

kings, the

the the

empire,
very

is still of

structure,
to

discovered
'cavern

probably
S. Clemente' of he used
was

house sometimes the

in

S.

Clement Otho with

(decorated with
be the

stucco

ornament)"

supposed
999

to which

Emperor
a.d.

III., who
his
An

died
altar

at the

twenty-two,

retired show of
to whom

confessor, and
and christian of that offered church Persian

age where other

was

spent fourteen
here
as a

days in penitentialretreat.
that this most after the ancient

relics found

temple

Mithras,

worship
were

deity
in

introduced, water, and

to

human This

sacrifices third church

at Rome

the

reign of Commodus.

is

unfortunately often
Prefect
to

under ordered

According
the
was
'

very unhealthy. the Acts of the of

Martyrs, the
and of the
or

Mamertinus

arrest

death, but one voice,

done and him In ?
'

Pope deterred by
evil has
was

Clement,
a

intended
what in

put him
cried
has

to

tumult

people, who

with
not

What

he

done,

rather

good
the

he

Clement

then
'

condemned

to exile

Chersonese,

dismissed touched and courage, Mamertinus, by his submission the God with the words, May worship bring you relief you

in the hundred he

place of
his exile

your

banishment.' received had been in The

to

Clement who
water

into

the

Church for
a

more

than and

two

Christians discovered directed of the Clement led

waiting
whose

for their
a

support in

was

by
Son
to
was

Lamb,

baptism, rock, to which form he recognised the

barren which thrown these marvels

lously miracu-

guidance
excited

of God. send tied

enthusiasm anchor and

Trajan

executioners
an

to Cherson

(now Inkerman),
into the
sea.

by whom
But his

shore, prayed that his relics might which the waves be given up to them, upon retired,and disclosed of the the tomb marble a chapel, built by unearthly hands, over

kneeling on disciples,

the

saint.

From

the

Chersonese

the

remains

of

S.

Clement the

were

by S. Cyril,the Apostle of brought back to Rome buried by his side. who, dying here himself, was

Slavonians,

CHAPTER
THE
Jewish S. Sabina Burial-gi'ound" Vigna dei Gesuiti
"

VIII
AVENTINE
S. Alessio" S. Sabba" The Priorato" S. Balbina. S. Pi-isca" The

"

THE
one

coronet

from its is perhaps the highest,and now, Aventine, which the of all Koman of convents, the most picturesque is divided into two
'

is of irregular form, and hills,

parts by

valley:

by the churches of S. Sabina, S. side, the higher, is crowned which and the the Capitolof the Priorato, Alessio, together form the Pseudo-Aventine, is marked Aventine as by ; the other, known
'

the churches Virgiland clothed

of S. Sabba Ovid allude

and

S. Balbina. the thick woods which

once

repeatedlyto

the Aventine.^ Dionysius speaks of the laurels or bays, an indigenous tree of ancient Kome, which grew there in abundance. that towards the Tiber, now shows Only one side of the hill, any of remarkable but it was the natural cliff, once obtained the name of Saxum Pseudo-Aventine
mass

for its rocks, and the from a huge solitary

of stone
'

which

surmounted
nativa
; loco
:

it

"

Est moles

Appellant Saxum

nomina fecit : res est. '2 ea pars bona mentis

portion of the upper supposed that the legend of

The
cave on

hill is of volcanic

formation, and

it is

vapours the way

Cacus vomiting forth flames from his had its origin in noxious the side of the Aventine sulphuric emitted is still the case at the Solfatara as on by the soil,
to

Tivoli.

The
an

demi-god Faunus,
oracle
on

who

had

an

oracle

at

the Solfatara, had derive the Some of Alba, who while others
connect
was

also
name

this hill.^ from from Aventinus

of Aventine

Silvius,King
a

buried

here ; "* others

Avens,
'

simply means say that the name it with the story of the foundation of the city. For when whether it became Romulus to decide Remus to or was necessary the newly built Rome, Romulus seated himself the rule over upon
Palatine watch Pseudo-Aventine.
to
1 2

river ; the hill of birds,'and

Sabine

the rock of the heavens, but Remus upon Here Remus saw only six vultures,while Romulus the
;

Virgil,Aen. viii. 104, 108, 216 Ovid, Fast. v. 149. '"^ Horn. i. 79. Amptife, UM. * VaiTO, iv. 7.

Ovid, Fast.

i. 551.

230
saw

Walks

in Rome

the augury in his own twelve, but each interpreted favour,and Kemus the boundary of the Palatine, whether sion in derileapt across and was slain by his brother, or by Celer,one of his followers. or war, and He was back and buried the Aventine, brought upon the stone whence he had watched thenceforth the vultures was called the Sacred tradition places the tomb of Rock. Ancient Remus the Pseudo-Aventine, but in the Middle on Ages the tomb of Caius Cestius was believed even to be the monument by Petrarch of Remus. authorities consider that when Some Remus was watching the vultures on the Pseudo-Aventine, that part of the hill was already occupied by a Pelasgicfortress called Romoria, but at this time, and for long afterwards, the higher part of the Aventine held was the Sabines. dedicated Here the Sabine king Numa altar to an by and the Sabine god Census had also an altar here. JupiterElicius,^ Faunus Hither Numa and Picus at to visit the forest-gods came their sacred fountain
" " "

'

Aventiiio suberat niger ilicisumbra, iuest. posses viso dicere,Numen In medio gramen, adoperta virenti miiscoque Lucus

Quo

Manabat

saxo

vena

Inde

fere soli Faunus

perennis aquae. Picusque bibebant.'^

Numa

of their spring, honey with the waters he him how them tell and to gods, compelled reveal to learn of his and will, might Jupiter the knowledge to him a charm against thunder and lightning.^ buried on the The Sabine king Tatius, the rival of Romulus, was and at his tomb, then called in a great grove of laurels,' Aventine of October, Armilustrum, it was the custom every year, in the month feast for the purification of arms, to hold a accompanied by martial A horse was dances. time sacrificed to Janus, the Sabine at the same

By mingling wine
snared the from

and

'

war-god.^
surrounded Martius the Aventine Ancus by a wall,^and settled which he of the inhabitants of Latin towns thousands there many to who of the plebs, had subdued. This was the origin were soon such formidable become opponents of the first colonists of the in and who took at first found rank who as Palatine, patricians, Sabine to the power of the original them an importantcounterpoise had of Romulus little Latin whom the colony inhabitants, against continued The Aventine hitherto been standing alone. always to be the especial property and sanctuary of the plebs ; the patricians from an impression the first instance,it is supposed, it in avoiding In of evil omen, that the hill was owing to the story of Remus. 416 the tribune Icilius proposed and carried a law by which B.C. conferred upon all the publiclands of the Aventine were ofiicially
"

1 2 3 4 5

Livy, i. 20. Ovid, Fast. iii.295. See Plutarch's Life of Nttma. 'Onions, hair, and pilchards.'"

Ampere,

Hist. Rom.

i. 427.

Dionysius, iii.43.

story of the Aventine

231

its heightswith houses, in the plebs, who forthwith began to cover floor" a custom had of which each family the people a rightin one was which still prevails at Rome. At this time, also, the Aventine ary boundincluded for the firsttime within the pomoerium or religious the of the city. Owing to its being the 'hill of the people,' their tribunes held their comitia and elected henceforth commons the tribune of Virginia, to whom here ; and here, after the murder Icilius had been

betrothed, the army

assembled

against Appius

Claudius.

Very little remains of the numerous temples which once adorned still the hill, their sites but are tolerablywell ascertained. We ascend the Aventine by the ancient Clivus Publicius,originally aediles at the same who brothers were two Publicii, paved by which they were of publicmoney, time, and had embezzled a sum thus to expend compelled
"

'

Paite

locaiit cliviun, qui tunc erat ardua rupes Utile nunc iter est,Publiciumque vocant.' i

the Temple of Luna the foot of this road was or which Tatius had also erected an altar to Janus or the Sun
At
'

Jana, in
"

Luna

menses rejiit

Finit Aventino

Luna

hujus quoque tempora mensis 2 colenda jugo.'

up this road that Caius Gracchus, a few hours before his death, fled to take refuge in a small Temple of Diana, which stood the present site of S. Alessio, where, kneeling somewhere near before the statue of the goddess,he implored that the people who had betrayed him might never be free. Close bv, singularly enough, his grandfather Sempronius the Temple of Liberty, which rose hall where the had built. Adjoining this temple was Gracchus a where archives of the censors were kept, and they transacted added rebuilt by Asinius PoUio, who to it the business ; this was established in Rome first publiclibrary It
was
"

'

Nee me, quae doctis patuerixntprima libellis Atria Libertas tangere passa sua est. "*
'

stood the famous In the same sanctuary of Juno Regina, group vowed by Camillus during the siegeof Veil,and to which the Juno removed after she had given a verbal of the captured city was and inhabit when asked whether she wished to go to Rome consent modern much the heaven is of as a new temple, apt to do in queen modern times at Rome.** The Temples of Libertyand Juno were both rebuilt under Augustus ; some under imagine that they were roof. If they were distinct buildings, common a nothing of the former remains ; some beautiful columns built into the church of

1 2 3 4

v. 293. Faat. iii.883. Ovid, TrUt. iii.1. 71. See the account of the Ch. of S. Francesca

Ovid, Fast.

Romana, Chap.

IV.

232
S. Sabina

Walks

in Rome

all that remain of the Temple of Juno, are that her reignhere would be eternal thought
"

though Livy

'
...

in

Aventinmu,
was

aeteniam
a

sedem

suam.'i

Also

belongingto
"

this group
a

Temple

of Minerva
:

"

Sol abit

Geminis, et

Coepit Aventina Here the dramatist honoured

Cancri signarubescimt Pallas in arce coli.'2

the Livius Andronicus, who lived upon scribes after of his death by a company Aventine, was and actors. Another poet who lived upon the Aventine was Ennius, who is described as inhabitinga humble dwelling,and being attended The poet Gallus also lived by a singlefemale slave. here
"

'

jubes Totis, Galle,

Et per Aventinum

tibi me servire diebus, ter quater ire tuum ! 3

'

On the other side of the Aventine (above the Circus Maximus), which almost covered with was myrtle a shrub now originally extinct at Kome of convent the the site on now occupied by S. Prisca,was called a more important Temple of Diana, sometimes of Murcia, built in imitation of the Temple by the Sabine name of Diana at Ephesus. Propertius writes
"
"

"

"

'

Aventinae Phyllis

quaedam

est Dianae

'

; -^

and Martial

"

'

Quique videt propius magni certamina

Laudat Aventinae vicinus Sura Dianae.'

Circi
5

Here, tillthe time

on

which

was

of was preservedthe pillar Dionysius, the law of Icilius. engraved of

brass

Near this were the groves of Simila,the retreat of the infamous association discovered and terriblypunished at the time of the the gardens of and Greek in the time of the empire wars ; of Julius Caesar, and where she received the devotion Servilia, in which her son Brutus is said to have conspiredhis murder, and been interrogated to have by his wife Portia as to the mystery, under which he refused to reveal to her, fearing her weakness she which wound of a terrible bj"the concealment torture, until,
"

"

had given to herself, him that the daughter of Cato she had shown could suffer and be silent. until The Aventine continued to be inhabited, and even populous, decline. to the sixth century, from which periodits prosperity began In the eleventh century it was occupiedby the camp of Henry IV. In the of Germany, when he came in war against Gregory VII. re-establish to thirteenth century Honorius final effort III. made a
1 3

Mart.

Livy, V. 22. Ej).x. 56.

2
"*

Ovid, Fast.
^

Propert. El. iv.

vi. 727. Mart. Ep. vi. 64.

S. Sabina

233

it has become its popularity ; but with each succeeding generation and more malaria of deserted, more the to owing partly ravages few and the monks ague-stricken until now its sole inhabitants are look after the monastic contadini who vineyards. In wandering in by hedges of elder,or by walls along its desolate lanes, hemmed with parasitical covered plants,it is difficult to realise the time it was when so thickly populated; and, except in the quantities
" "

of coloured marbles with which its fields and vineyards are strewn, of the 16 aediculae, 64 baths, there is nothing to remind one 25 granaries, 88 fountains, 130 of the largerhouses called domus which and 2487 of the poorer houses called insulae, occupied this site. The present interest of the hill is almost wholly ecclesiastical, and the legends of the of around the story S. Dominic, and centres saints and

martyrs connected

with

its different churches.

of is behind the Church best approach to the Aventine The the Clivus S. Maria in Cosmedin, where the Via S. Sabina, once Publicius (available turns up the hill. for carriages), A lane on the left leads to the Jewish Burial-Ground, used as A curious centuries. for many a place of sepulturefor the Ghetto instance of the cupidity attributed to the Jewish race may be seen four baiocchi, habituallygiven leave to their neighboursto discharge the contents the of a rubbish-cart into their cemetery, a permission of which have so abundantly availed themselves, that the level of Romans the soil has been raised by many yards, and whole sets of older in the fact that

they have, for

remuneration

of

ones been completely swallowed up, and new heads. their over with its fine view over at the hill-top, After we turn the corner the Palatine, and cross the trench of fortification formed duringthe fear of a Garibaldian invasion in 1867, we skirt what appears to be Honorian city, part of a city wall. This is in fact the wall of the of the great family of Savelli,whose built by Pope Honorius III., the populous and idea was the Aventine once more to render and who favourite portion of the city, began great works for this Before his were completed S. Dominic arrangements purpose. arrived in Rome, and was appointedmaster of the papal household

monuments

have

erected

and his ministrations of the convent of S. Sabina, where the that formed such wisely soon attraction, an popularity pope abandoned memorate his design of founding a new city which would comhe himself, and left the field to S. Dominic, to whom the made the land on this side of the hill. Henceforward over of S. Sabina its surroundings have convent and become, more than any other spot, connected with the historyof the Dominican Order there all the great saints of the order have received their first inspiration, have resided, or are buried; there S. Dominic himself received in a beatific vision the institution of the rosary ; there he was ordered to plantthe famous orange tree, which, being
and

abbot

"

234
then unknown

Walks

in Rome

in Kome, he brought from his native Spain as the of a poor monk only present which it was suitable for the gratitude to ojffer to his patron Honorius, who himself one of the great was botanists of his time described by John an was orange tree which Evelyn in 1664, and which still lives, and is firmly believed to flourish or fail with the fortunes of the Dominican Order, so that it has been greatly the worse for the suppression of convents ; though the brief residence of Pere Lacordaire is said to have at S. Sabina beneficial to it, and his visit even caused a new proved exceedingly sucker to sprout.
"

The Church built on the site of the house of of S. Sabina was the saint in which she suffered martyrdom under the Emperor in 124 of 'rich for the Hadrian,^ a.d. Illyria, by Peter, a priest ' sibi pauper), as locuples, {pauperibus poor, and poor for himself in read the mosaic the inside entrance. we inscription principal S. Gregory the Great read two of his homilies here. The church rebuilt in 824, and restored and reconsecrated was by Gregory IX. Much of its interest in 1238. ancient pavements, mosaics, "c. was destroyed in 1587 by Sixtus V., who took the credit of buried beneath the relics of the martyrs who the are discovering altar. is a covered corridor containing several ancient On the west columns inscriptions.It is supportedon one side by ancient spiral the other these of pavonazzetto ; on have been plundered and replaced by granite. Hence, through a window, ladies are allowed the celebrated orange tree, about 670 years old, which to gaze upon they cannot approach ; a rude figure of S. Dominic is sculptured the wall which surrounds it. low upon
" " "

"

' J'ai vu un arbre plante par le bienheureux S. Dominique a Rome ; chacun le va voir et cherit pour I'amour du planteur : c'est poui-quoiayant vu en vous I'arbre du desir de saintete que notre Seigneur a plante en voire ame, je le cheris tendrea le considerer je vous exhorte d'en faire de meme, ment, et prends plaisir moi : Dieu vous et de dire avec o bel arbre plant* ! divine semence celeste, croisse, veuille faire produire votre fruit a maturity.' S. Francois de Sales h Dieu vous S. Jeanne Frangoisede Chantal.
.
. .
"

The

west

door, of the twelfth

as an

century, in

richly sculptured

instance of the extinction of the Its influence art. panelsare covered with carvings Byzantine upon to the from the Old and New Testament, referred by Mamachi the of thirteenth Some the to seventh, by Agincourt century. remain those which are subjectshave been destroyed ; among the Angel the Annunciation, the Angelsappearingto the Shepherds, in the Temple, the Magi, Moses and Zacharias turning the Rods the Ascent of Elijah,Christ before Pilate,the Denial into Serpents,

frame, is cited by Kugler

at The Crucifixion (in the left corner of Peter, and the Ascension. of the subject, of the earliest representations the top),probably one the entrance Within the crosses has the figures on fullydraped.

There

is a beautiful picture of S.

Sabina,by

Vivarini of Miu-ano, in S. Zachai'ia

at Venice.

236
on

Walks

in Rome

S. Dominic is said to have been wont to lie prostratein One while he devil in his rage the was day lying thus, prayer. hurled a huge stone (a round is said to have black marble, pietra di paragone) at him, which missed left the attack the saint,who The devil was frantic with disappointment, entirelyunnoticed. and the stone, remaining as a relic,is preservedon a low pillar in the nave. A small gothic ciborium,richlyinlaid with mosaic, remains on the left of the tribune. Opening from the left aisle is a chapel built by Elic of Tuscany, The frame of the panel on the left very rich in preciousmarbles. is said to be unique. It was in this church, in 1218, that the Polish cousins Hyacinthus and Celsus Odrowaz, struck by the preachingof S. Dominic, and by the recollection of the barbarism, heathenism, and ignorance which prevailedin many parts of their native land of Silesia,offered themselves of the Dominican as missionaries, and took the vows Hither Order, becoming the apostlesof Hungary and Bohemia. fled to the monastic the life S. Thomas to Aquinas, pursued very door of the convent by the tears and outcries of his mother, who worn vainlyimplored him to return to her. One evening,a pilgrim, arrived at the door of this convent, out with travel and fatigue, mounted wretched The and a mule, implored admittance. upon * father ? in What are are come for, my prior mockery asked, you if the collegeof cardinals is disposed to elect you to see come you 'I come as the pilgrimMichele Ghislieri, to Kome,' replied pope ? ' because the interests of the Church requireit,and I shall leave as task is accomplished ; meanwhile I implore you to give soon as my and a little hay for my mule.' Sixteen years me a brief hospitality afterwards Pius V., and Ghislieri mounted the papal throne as
'

which

the most troubled reign, rigidfollower and eager defender of the institutions of S. Dominic. One day, as Ghislieri of prayer, the image about to kiss his crucifix in the eagerness was of Christ, retired of its own accord from his touch, says the legend, for it had been poisoned hj an enemy, and a kiss would have been death. This crucifix is now preservedas a precious relic in the and of S. Pius V. are convent, where the cells both of S. Dominic of Koman like historical chambers most saints, preserved ; though, their interest is lessened by their having been beautified and

proved,during

cell of S. Dominic part of the ancient of the saint is the beautiful portrait by Bazzani,founded on the records of his personal appearance ; the lies by his side the glory hovers over his head he is,as the lily chronicler describes him, of amazing beauty.' In this cell he is said frequentlyto have passed the night in prayer with his rival

changed into chapels. In the timber ceiling Here remains.

"

"

'

S. Francis of Assisi. of S. Dominic :

"

The

is connected refectory

with

another

story

' It happened that when he was with forty of his friars in the convent residing of S. Sabina at Rome, tlie brothers who had been sent to beg for provisions had returned with a very small quantity of bread, and they knew not what they should do, for night was at hand, and they had not eaten all day. Then S. Dominic

S. Alessio

237

ordered tliat they should seat themselves in the refectory, and, taking his place at the head of the table,he pronounced the usual blessing; and l)ehold ! two beautiful youths clad in white and shining garments appeared amongst them" one of bread, and the other a pitcher of wine, which earned a basket they distributed to the brethren how they had come knew in, ; then they disappeared, and no one how nor they had gone out. And the brethren sat in amazement ; but S. Dominic God stretched forth his hand, and said calmly, "My children,eat what has sent tasted before nor since.' you ; and it was truly celestial food, such as they never ^ "Jameson's 3Ionastic Orders,' p. 369.
"

saints who were sojourned for a time in this convent founder Premonstratensians the of Norbert, (ob. 1134), and lona Raymond de Penaforte (ob.1275),who left his labours in Barcefor a time in 1 230 to act as chaplainto Gregory IX. In 1287 a conclave was for the election of a held at S. Sabina broken to Pope Martin successor IV., but was up by the malaria, six cardinals dying at once within the convent, and all the rest desert his not Savelli, who would taking flight, except Cardinal fires and survived ing paternal home, constantlyburnby keeping large in his chamber. afterwards his perseverance Ten months was rewarded his Honorius election IV. the throne to own as by In the garden of the convent small remains of the palace are some of the great Savelli pope, Honorius of III. Here, on the declivity the Aventine, many in made excavations 1856-57 were important by the French Prior Besson, a person of great intelligence ; and he rewarded fine fragments of the wall was of some by the discovery of Servius Tullius, formed and an of gigantic blocks of peperino, ancient Roman black and white with house, its chambers paved in mosaic. In the chambers, which found decorated stucco were with remnants in figures of painting and arabesqueornaments, ' one little group representeda sacrifice before the statue of a god, in an S. S.

Other

aedicula. Some rudely scratched Latin lines on this surface led to the inference that this chamber, after becoming subterranean and otherwise uninhabitable, had served for a prison; one unfortunate inmate having inscribed curses against those who caused his loss of

liberty more devout, left record of his ; and another, ^ to Bacchus in case of recoveringthat blessing.'

vow

to sacrifice

Since the death of Prior Besson the works have been abandoned, and the remains already discovered have been for the most part earthed up again. A nympheum, several subterranean a well, and stillvisible the hillside. on passages are The Mirahilia mention Arch of Faustinus as an existingnear S. Sabina in the twelfth century. Just beyond S. Sabina is the Hieronymite Church and Convent of S. Alessio,the only monastery of Hieronymites in Italy where meat allowed to be eaten was in consideration The first of the malaria. church erected here was of S. Boniface, built in A.D. 305 in honour martyr, by Aglae,a noble Roman lady,whose servant (and lover)he had been. It was reconsecrated I. in honour in A.D. 401 by Innocent of S. Alexis,whose paternalmansion this This saint, site. was on
"

Hemans'

Monuments

in Rome.

238

Walks

in Rome
of the and being forced by virginity, same evening from his home, and out turned utterly changed, he rewho dear to were under the stairs poor beggar, Seventeen passed years away,
near a

and beautiful,took a vow young his parents into marriage,fled on and was given up as lost. Worn many which when led
a

years
to

afterwards

to be

those

him, and remained, unrecognised,as

his father's
'

house.

mysterious voice suddenly resounded through the Koman Seek of God, that he may churches, crying, ye out the man pray
stricken with amazement, the was when in the Seek house of continued, Euphemian.' Then, rushed togetherto the Aventine, where pope, emperor, and senators they found the despised beggar dying beneath the doorstep,his
same

for Home.'

The

crowd

voice

'

crucifix in one hand a beaming with celestial light, and a sealed paper in the other. The people vainly strove to draw the paper from the fingers which were closingin the gripeof death ; but when Innocent I. bade the dying man in God's name to give it up, they opened, and the pope read to the astonished aloud multitude the secret of Alexis, and his father Euphemian and his bride regained in death the son widowed and the husband they had lost.
countenance
'

secular use might mar the place Then, lest some Made sacred by his pain, upon the ground Where stood that statelyhouse they reared the church Of S. Alexis,and the marble stairs \Miich sheltered him they left as when he died. And there a sculptor carved garb, him, in mean Reclining, by his side his pilgrim'sstaff, And in his hand the story of his life, Of virgin pureness and humility.' Leivis Morris.
"

S. Alessio is entered
'

through a courtyard.

The courtyards in front of S. Alessio, S. Cecilia, S. Gregorio, and other churches, like the vestibula of the ancient Roman houses, on the site of -which they were probably built. This style of building,says Tacitus,was generally introduced by Nero. Beyond opened the prothyra, or inner entrance, with the cellae for the porter and dog, both chained, on either side.'
are

portico of the church is a statue of Benedict XIII. (Pietro The Orsini,1724). The west door has a rich border of mosaic. de Marchis, church has been so shamelesslymodernised by Tommaso fine opusThe in 1750, as to retain no of antiquity. appearance
In the alexandrinum is preserved. In the floor is the incised of Lupi di Olmeto, general of the Hieronymites gothic monument with is a shrine of S. Alessio, his Left of the entrance (ob.1433). stair figuresleepingunder the staircase" part of the actual wooden head. his Not far from this is in enclosed a case over glass being which out In a chapel the ancient well of his father's house. opens of Cardinal Guido is the fine tomb of a passage leadingto a sacristy with one di Balneo of the time of Leo X. He is represented sitting, hand restingon the ground the delicate execution of his lace in burst marble is much admired. The mosaic roof of this chapel was of 1849,but during the French bombardment open by a cannon-ball

pavement

"

S. Alessio
the

239

for its uninjured. The baldacchino is remarkable perfectproportions.Behind, in the tribune, are the inlaid mosaic into should omit to descend No one of a gothic tabernacle. pillars is an the Crypt of S. Alessio, which early church, supported on and containing a marble stunted pillars, chair,green with episcopal

figure was

the early Here tradition asserts that the pope used to meet age. under in times of persecution. The pillar conclaves of the Church bound when which S. Sebastian altar is shown that was to the as shot with the arrows. he was cloister is now The convent as a blind asylum. The appropriated At one time the building was with orange and lemon trees. blooms who intended turning Ferdinand of the ex-King purchased by Spain, The famous it into a villa for himself. Crescenzio, son of Theodora, of Popes John X. and Benedict the murderer VI., died peacefully remains in the His tomb in the monastery of S. Alessio in 984. trious, cloisters, inscribed,'Here lies the body of Crescentius, the illusthe great the honourable citizen of Rome, the great leader, descendant of a great family. Christ,the Saviour of our souls, further made him infirm and an so that, abandoning any invalid, and he this entered monastery, spent his hope of worldly success, ^ last years in prayer and retirement.' A short distance beyond S. Alessio is a sort of little square, of the Knights of Malta, and adorned with trophied memorials of laurel the site the tained conoccupying grove (Armilustrum) which of the Priorato is the entrance of Tatius. Here the tomb
. . .

the famous View of S. Peter's through the of by crowds people on Ash-Wednesday, when keyhole, admired ' is held at the neighbouring churches. the stazione Entering the which and visitors are the to to Knights, garden (which belongs now only admitted on Wednesdays and Saturdays) we find ourselves in a beautiful avenue of old bay-trees framing the distant S. Peter's. A terrace overhanging the Tiber has an enchanting view over the In the garden is an old pepper tree, and in a little river and town. From hence we can enter court a picturesquepalm tree and well. called S. Basilic,sometimes Aventhe church, sometimes S. Maria in by Cardinal Rezzonico tina, an ancient building modernised 1765, from the ignorant and atrocious designs of the archaeologist has been erected here. statue The a to whose Piranesi, memory collection of tombs, most of them church contains an interesting is an belonging to the Knights of Malta ; that of Bishop Spinelli with and relief of Minerva ancient marble the a sarcophagus, Caraffa berlain chamMuses ; that of Bartolommeo a knight in armour to Innocent VII., is by the rare fifteenth-century sculptor A richlysculptured Paolo Romano. ancient altar contains relics of saints found beneath the pavement of the church. In an upper hall, heads from the full-length at Malta of the seventy-four portraits Grand Masters have recentlybeen arranged. The Priorato garden,so beautiful and attractive in itself, has an

garden, where

is

'

"

"

See Lauciani.

240
additional his massive of interest
as

Walks
that in

in Rome
which the
as a

famous

Hildebrand

the care who abbot of the A was uncle, adjoining monastery. cornice in these grounds is one of the few architectural of ancient Rome the Aventine. It may on fragments existing perhaps have belonged to the smaller temple of Diana in which and in escapingfrom which, down Caius Gracchus took refuge, the and taken so was steep hillside,he sprained his ankle, by his Some and buried discovered houses were some precious pursuers. Vltl. built the statelybuttress when Urban vases brought to light walls which now support the hillside beyond the Priorato. The cliffbelow these convents is the supposed site of the cave of the giant Cacus, described by Virgil :
"

(GregoryVIL, 1073-80) was

brought up

boy, under

'

At specus

et Caci detecta
ac

Regia,
Non

et umbrosae

si qua Infernas reseret sedes et regna recludat immane barathrum Pallida,dis in visa,superque Cernatur, trepidentque immisso lumine manes.'
secus

apparuit ingens penitus patuere cavernae penitus vi terra dehiscens

Aeneid, viii. 241.

Hercules of Geryon to pasture in the valley brought the oxen between and Palatine. the Aventine Cacus, issuingfrom his cave while their owner was asleep,carried off four of the bulls, dragging them the side of hill that the their Hercules tails, by steep up he Then might be deceived by their footprints being reversed. concealed them in his cavern and barred the entrance with a rock. Hercules he could everywhere, and when sought the stolen oxen not find them But he was he as going away with the remainder. drove them along the valleynear of his oxen the Tiber,one lowed, and when the stolen oxen in the cave heard that,they answered ; and Hercules, after rushing three times round the Aventine boiling with fury,shattered of the the stone which guarded the entrance forth with^ a mass of rock, and, though the giant vomited cave Thus in and flames against his smoke he bim arms. him, strangled
runs

the

legend,which

is

explainedby Ampere

"

de I'Aventin,montagne en tout temps mal famee, Cacus habite une caverne herissee de rochers et couverte de forets, dont la foret montagne anciennement Naevia, longtemps elle-meme un repaire de bandits, etait une dependance et fut doute reste qui subsista dans les temps historiqiies.Ce Cacus etait sans un un brigand celebre,dangereux pour les patres du voisinage,dont il volait les trouquand ils allaient paitre dans les pres situes au bord du Tibre et boire peaux lui avaient donne cette celebrite Les hauts faits de Cacus I'eaiidu fleuve. qui, s'attache encore et surtout le stratageme a ses pareils, parmi les paysans remains employe par lui probablement plus d'une fois pour derouter les bouviers des la direcles animaux tion a cacher qu'ilderobait,de maniere environs, en emmenant
'

du bandit La caverne et forcee par avait ete decouverte pas. la terreur que avait qui penetre vaillamment, malgre quelque patre courageux, y lieu souterrain et formidable ce inspirait, y avait surpris le voleur et Tavait de leurs

etrangl6. il n'etait pas plus question d'Hercule Tel etait, le recit primitif ou je crois, lequel Cacus n'etait pas mis a mort par un demi-dieu, que de Vulcain, et dans mais certain Recaranus, patre vigoureux et de gi-andetaille. A ces r^cits par un de bergers,qui allaient toujours exag^rantles horreiu-s de I'antre de Cacus et a
'

S. Prisca
vinrent ile celui-ci, resistance Uesespor^e luerveilleuses.'" Z/w". Jiom. i. 170.
se

241
peu
u

meler

pen

des circonstances

has Benedictine Convent the Priorato a huge modern 1892-96. arisen, of the hill must retrace We our steps as far as the summit in order to reach and then turn to the right towards the Palatine, the ugly,obscure-looking Church of S. Prisca, founded by Pope of the house the site of to Aquila Eutychianus in A.D. 280, close at Rome, S. Peter lodged when he was and Priscilla, with whom but entirelymodernised by Cardinal Giustiniani from designs of in miserable Carlo Lombardi, who encased its fine granitecolumns is of altar Over the stucco a pictureby Passignano high pilasters. the is have said in taken to of the which the baptism saint, place ancient and very picturesque crypt beneath the church, where an inverted corinthian capital a relic of the temple of Diana which once occupied this site is shown as the font in which S. Prisca was baptizedby S. Peter. now Opening from the rightaisle was a kind of terraced loggia, and beautiful view. In the adjoinfallen into ruin,with a peculiar ing of three arches an are aqueduct. vineyard

Beyond

"

"

altar-pieceof the church represents the baptism of S. Prisca,whose being afterwards placed in the church, it has since borne her name. a Roman who, at virginof illustrious birth, According to the legend, she was A lion let in fierce the was the age of thirteen,was exposed amphitheatre. the fury of the savage loose upon her, but her youth and innocence disarmed beast, which, instead of tearing her to pieces,humbly licked her feet to the great consolation of Christians and the confusion of idolaters. Being led back she is represented with a lion, Sometimes there beheaded. to prison,she was with an eagle, because it is related that an eagle watched sometimes by her body tillit was laid in the grave ; for thus, says the story, was virgin innocence honoured by kingly bird as well as by kingly beast.'" Jfrs. Jameson.
'The remains
"

Testament. "Greet through the New 'Atiuila and Priscilla are known for .lesus laid down in who have life Christ : my Aquila, my helpers of not only I give thanks, but also all the churches their own necks, unto whom
Priscilla and

So writes that is in their house." Likewise the Gentiles. greet the church this greeting ; and Paul, in the sixteenth chapter of his Epistle to the Romans is already enough to give us exalted ideas of the devotion of this couple to the recollect what we faith. But our respect for them is further increased when of the most learned Luke tells us in the Acts of the Apostles : that ApoUos" one and the probable author the first heralds of Christianity, and eloquent amongst l)ench in the house of Aquila sat on the dis(;iples' of the Epistle to the Hebrews" and and from them, but especiallyfrom the mother of the house, Piiscilla, received deeper instruction in the way of salvation : "They expounded to him the way of God more perfectly," says the Acts of the Apostles. ' know further of Aquila and Priscilla that they were We working-people" that in their house on the Aventine they followed the trade of tent-making, the ^V^len the Emperor the Apostle Paul also earned his bread. same by which for Aquila Claudius drove the .Tews out of Rome, they too had to leave the city, to Corinth, where Paul became in Pontus. a .Tew,born was They then removed their guest, and where, as in Rome, they held assemblies at their house. They there till they at Ephesus, and remained afterwards established their dwelliTig and their house the Aventine. on iil)tained leave to return to Rome Latin in the very ancient church is If the tradition" for which a inscription responsible if the tradition be right, the house of A(iuila and Priscilla was the built on the remains of a temple of Diana, and that again upon 11 its turn the Arcadian site of an altar to Hercules, which king, Evander, had built, What hundreds of yeai-s before the time of Ronuilus. a train of memories,
'
"

VOL.

I.

242
which

Walks

in Rome

caiTies i;s, though with uncertain steps, back into the very night of And as the sun sinks and the wall of S. Prisca casts a lengthening the in silence and solitude of what and dream us linger a moment, stories and memories l)e with which coming ages shall lengthen out the may chain of those which the past has already linked to this deserted and melancholy spot.' Rydberg's'Roman Days.'

antiquity! shadow, let

"

We know from the Acts and the Epistles,that, in consequence of the decree banishment which issued against the Jews was by the Emperor Claudius, for a while, and that on Aquila and Priscilla were compelled to leave Rome their return they were in able to open a small oratory ecclesiani domesticam their house. This oratory, one of the first opened to divine worship in Rome these walls, which in all probability have of S. Peter's echoed with the sound in 1776 close to the modern discovered of S. Prisca ; but church voice, were attention no was paid to the discovery, in spite of its unrivalled importance. The only memorandum of paper in Codex of it is a scrap 9697 of the Biblioin Paris, in which named Carrara speaks of having a man theque Rationale found with subterranean S. Prisca,decorated a chapel near paintings of the fourth century, representing the apostles. A copy of the frescoes seems to have been made at the time, but no trace of it has been found. ' In the same found excavations of 1776 was a bronze tablet, which had been offered to Gains Pudens Marius Cornelianus by the people of Clunia (near Palencia, Spain), as a token of gratitude for the services which he had rendered them during his governorship of the province of Tarragona. This tablet,dated April 9, A.D. 227,proves that the house owned by Aquila and Priscilla in apostolic times had subsequently passed into the hands of a Cornelius Pudens ; in other the two families during the sojourn of words, that the relations formed between the apostles in Pome had been faithfullymaintained by their descendants. Their intimate connection is also proved by the fact that Pudens, Pudentiana, the Via all buried in the cemetery of Priscilla on Praxedes, and Prisca were Salaria. Lanciani.
of
" " "

'

'

"

of the Vigna Opposite the door of this church is the entrance wild and beautiful del Torlonia, formerly Vigna Gesuiti,a vineyard and extending as occupying the greater part of this deserted hill, S. Paolo and the pyramid of Caius Cestius. Several scattered farmhouses There are amongst the vines and fruit trees. views beautiful towards the Alban are mountains, and to the Pseudo-Aventine with its fortress-like convents. The ground is littered with fragments of marbles and alabaster, which lie unheeded of unknown edifices which once existed the relics vegetables, among here. The beautiful, and overgrown by a spot till recently was luxuriance of wild mignonette and other flowers in the late spring.
as

far

the Porta

the road now the finest existing cuts the vineyard, are remains of the Walls of Servius Tullius,i50 feet high, and 11 feet of large quadrilateral 6 inches wide ; formed of twenty-fivecourses in the blocks of tufa, laid alternatelylong and as cross-ways, Etruscan A and another semicircular arch of buildings. part open remain, and are apparently contemporary with the wall. This is the finest existingfragment of the Wall of the time of the Kings, which enclosed the seven hills of early Rome.
'

Here, where

Septemque

una

sibi

muro

circumdedit

arces.'

Virgil, Georg.ii.535.

Some

antiquaries attribute them

to the wall of the

Aventine, built by Ancus

Martins.

244

Walks

in

Rome

to

gain
a

admittance.
chamber
and

Here

Flaminius without and door whose

Vacca
or

describes

the
whose

discovery
pavement
with

of
w^as

mysterious
of
;

window,
walls
were

agate
but

cornelian,

plated

gilt

copper The
was near

of

this

nothing
of
A

remains, fourth of

headquarters
S. Sabba.

the

statio 205 has

of

the been

ancient found of

fire-brigade
here,
the with
an

pedestal
Junius
or

inscription pimish janitor

broken
To to with
or

authorising
a

Rufinus,

prefect {fustihus

Vigiles, flagellis)
a

to

rod of the

cat-of-nine-tails inhabitants of
a

vel which

the had

any

house

in

fire

out

through
the

neglect.
church follow
to

reach Via
near

remaining
and

of the

the

Aventine,
which
of

we

have up

to

turn

the

Appia,
the Baths red

then of

lane Church

leads
S.
a

the

side hillwhose

Caracalla
tower

the
so

Balbina,

picturesque

brick soft

forms of the
a

conspicuous

feature,
so

as

seen

against
views. been It
was

the

long

lines

the

flat

Campagna,
of this edifice
a

in

many

Roman has it. in

Latterly, greatly
erected
in

however, by

effect

attractive erected

building
around

injured
in memory

square

white

of

S.

Balbina,
of the

virgin

martyr
who

(buried
suffered altar

S. Maria under

Domenica),
A.D.

daughter
132. It old with the

prefect
the of
remains

Quirinus,
of
a an

Hadrian,
Barbo marble of the

contains basilica

erected
ancient Giovanni
a cumbent re-

by

Cardinal of

in

S. Peter's, and
a

splendid
by

throne

inlaid

mosaics,

fine

tomb,

Cosmati,

papal
and

chamberlain,
adorned says the
to

Stefano mosaics. Constantino

'

Sordi,

supporting
Sylvester
in the
'

figure,
Here and emperor of the the

with that other

Mirabilia
one

and the interview Rome and

kissed
the

parted
is Western

from

after

which supremacy

supposed
Empire
this

have
to

surrendered the

Pope.
de

Adjoining
Pius
to

church,
a

Monsignor
house of of

Merode,
for
to

in

the

time

of

IX.,
avert

established the moral

correction them

youthful
communication

offenders,
with

result

exposing

other

prisoners.

Hemans'

Storp

of Monuments

in

Rome,

ii. 228.

CHAPTER
THE
The

IX
VIA APPIA

Porta Capena" Baths of Caracalla" SS. Nereo ed Achilleo" SS. Sisto e S. Cesjireo (S. Giovanni in Oleo" S. Giovanni Doinenico" in Porta Latina) of the i"reedmen of Octavia of the Scipios ColumColumbarium Tomb barium of Drusus" Tombs of the Vigna Codini" Arch Porta S. Sebastiano" of Domine and Priscilla" Church of Geta Quo Vadis (Vigna Marancia) of S. Calixtiis, of S. Pretextatus, of the Jews, and SS. Nereo ed Catacombs Achilleo- (Temple of Bacclius, i.e. S. IJrbano" Grotto of Egeria" Temple and Catacombs of Diviis Rediculus)" Basilica of S. Sebastiano" Circus of Maxentius" of Cecilia MeteUa Tomb Temple of Romulus, son of Maxentius" of the Via Appia of the Caetani" "Castle Tombs S. Maria Nuova" Roma "c. Tor di Selce, Vecchia" Casale Rotondo
"

"

"

"

"

"

THE

Via

B.C.

by Statius,was Appia, called Regina Viarum begun 312, by the Censor Appius Claudius the Blind, 'the most

illustrious of the great Sabine and Patrician race, of whom he was remarkable It and the most representative.' was paved throughout, served as a kind of patrician during the first part of its course bordered of family tombs. a magnificent avenue by cemetery, being It began at the Porta Capena, itself crossed by the Appian aqueduct, which
'

was

due to the

same

great benefactor
madidamque

"

Substitit ad veteres

arcus

Capenam

'"

and the

was

carried

by Claudius

across

the Pontine had been

Marshes

as

far

as

Capua,

but afterwards

extended

to Brundusium.

Up
drunk

to 442

A.u.C.

waters drain-polluted population.

of the Tiber

by the whole

site of the Porta Capena, so important as marking the commencement of the Appian Way, was long a disputedsubject. The maintained Roman that it outside the present Walls, was antiquaries of S. Gregory, that the river basing their opinion on the statement identical with a Almo in that Regio, and considering the Almo was The which is crossed in the hollow about half a mile beyond small stream the Porta S. Sebastiano, and which passes through the Valle Caff"aand S. falls the Tiber Paolo. into This stream, however, near relle, rises at the foot of the Alban Hills below the lake, divides which into two parts about six miles from Rome, and its smaller division, after

country, enters

San Giovanni, recedes again into the the Porta Metrovia, a little behind the and passing through the Circus Maximus, falls Church of S. Sisto, into the Tiber at the Pulchrum Littus,below the Temple of Vesta.
to the Porta
near

close flowing

Rome

245

246
Close to the the Via San accordance

Walks

in Rome
of the Almo,
crosses

pointwhere

the smaller branch this,

Sebastiano,Mr. J. H. Parker, in 1868-69, excavatingin

discovered with his measurements, some remains, on the originalline of walls, which he identified beyond doubt as those of the Porta Capena, whose positionhad been already proved by Pius IX. came to see the discoveries, Ampere and other authorities. ' and exclaiming, The heretic's right,' that his complained bitterly failed whom should have to he paid very highly, own archaeologists, find what was discovered by a stranger. ings Close to the Porta Capena stood a large group of historical buildof which no of Mars Temple
'

trace
:
"

remains.

On

the

right of

the gate

was

the

Lux

eadem

Appositum

Marti festa est ; quem prospicitextra tectae porta Capena viae.' Ovid, Fast. vi. 191.

It is

probably in
*

allusion to this

temple that Propertius says

"

Armaque

tulero portae votiva Capenae, quum Subscribam, salvo grata puella viro.'

Prop. iv. Eleg.3. Martial alludes

'

to

little temple of Hercules

near

this

"

Capena grandl porta qua pluit gutta, Phrygiaeque matris Almo qua lavat ferrum,
Horatiorum qua viret sacer campus, Et qua pusilli fervet Herculis fanum.' Mart.

Ep.

iii.47.

the gate also stood the tomb of the murdered sister of the with the templesof Honour and Virtue, vowed Horatii,^ by Marcellus his fountain dedicated and dedicated and to a son,^ by Mercury : Near
"

'

Est aqua Mercurii portae vicina Capenae ; Si juvat expertiscredere, numen habet. Hue venit incinctus tunica mercator, et urna Purus suffita, ferat,haurit aquam. quam XJda fithinc laiu-us : lauro sparguntur ab uda Omnia, quae dominos sunt habitiu-a novos."

Ovid, Fast.
at the Porta It was his sister.
'

v.

673.

Capena

that the survivor

of the

Horatii

met

at the head of the army, bearing his triple spoils. But him. out to meet to the Capenian gate, his sister came in marriage to one betrothed Now of the Cimatii, and his cloak, she had been which she had wrought with her own hands, was borne on the shoulders of her At brother ; and she knew it,and cried aloud, and wept for him she had loved. wroth so the sight of her tears Horatius that he drew his sword and stabbed was who shall maiden his sister to the heart, and he said, " So perish the Roman ! Arnold's Hist, of Rome,' i. 16. weep for her country's enemy Horatius went home
as

they

were

drawing

near

"

'

'

"

1 2

Livy, i. 10. Livy, xxvii.

25 ; xxix. 11.

Fountain

of

Egeria

247

with which the Porta other historical scenes Among the many remember it here that that Cicero is was connected, we may Capena received in triumph by the senate and peopleof Kome was upon his
return

The

banishment, B.C. 57. aqueduct of the Aqua Marcia

from

had

its termination

near

this.

the Via S. Gregorio, Two roads lead to the Via S. Sebastiano one beneath the Arch of Constantino ; from the Coliseum which comes from the site of the Ghetto, through the street which comes the other, the Palatine and Aventine. the Circus Maximus, between of these roads is that The first gate on the left after the junction of S. Gregorio, in which the site of the of the vineyardof the monks discovered were found. The remains Porta Capena was reburied, of the late Government but the indifference vineyard owing to the ; view it possesses of of the picturesque is worth entering on account the Palace of the Caesars. with remains of a prettylittlerenaisOn the rightis a rope-walk, sance lane leads up the Pseudo-Aventine villa. There to the a Church of S. Balbina, described Chap. VIII. the brook of the Alrao, where the Via Appia crosses On the left, the di Sisto Vecchio leads to the back called Maranna, Via San now in the grounds of the Coelian behind S. Stefano Kotondo. Here also, of the Villa Celimontana, is the spring which modern archaeology has determined to be the true Fountain of Egeria, where Numa his is described with the as mysterious meetings Pompilius having of this fountain was verified when that nymph Egeria. The locality of the Porta Capena was certain that it was in as it was ascertained, of immediate that from the in the a neighbourhood gate, passage 3rd Satire of Juvenal, which describes that when he was waitingat
"

Capena with Umbritius while the waggon was loadingfor his departure into the valleyof Egeria, to Cumae, they rambled and after of his for Umbritius motives I speaking said, leavingRome,
the Porta
'

could

add other reasons to these, but my beasts summon to move me and the be for the is I must muleteer sun has going, on, setting. long been summoning me by the cracking of his whip.' To this valleythe oppressed race of the Jews confined was by o f and their furniture basket a wisp of hay : Domitian, consisting a
"

'

Nunc

sacri fontis

nemus

et dehibra

locantur iii.13.

.Tudaeis, quorum
On

cophinus foeniimque supellex.' * Juvenal, Sat.

the rightare the Baths of Caracalla (admission 1 fr., Sundays the largest of ruins in Home, except the Coliseum mass free), sisting ; confor the most part of huge walls of red and orange coloured of blue sky. The ruins,formerly brickwork, framing vast strips most beautiful,from the immense variety of shrubs and flowers which adorned since the change of little worth Government, and are now visiting.Men are even let down and themselves, by ropes, to the great danger of the building

them, have

been

utterly denuded

248

Walks

in Rome
may

have found a resting-place baths, which could accommodate 1600 bathers at once, were tinued conbegun in A.D. 212, by Caracalla, finished and under Alexander Severus. by Heliogabalus, that their size made Ammianus They covered a space so enormous Marcellinus baths were like provinces and say that the Roman they were suppliedwith water by the Antonine Aqueduct, which from the Claudian, was brought hither for that especial purpose the Arch of Drusus. over
to tear out any stray plant which in the sides of the walls. These
"

for mind and body ; enumerate all the gymnastic Imagine evei-y entertainment fathers invented ; repeat all the hooks Italy and Greece have produced ; our games places for all these games, admirers for all these works ; add to this, suppose baths of the vastest size,the most complicated combination ; intersperse the whole
one

with

word,
may

you

in gardens, with theatres, with porticoes,with schools : suppose, and city of the gods, composed biit of palaces and public edifices, baths of Rome.'" Bw^wer form some faint idea of the gloriesof the gi-eat
a

Lytton. themselves Antiquaries have amused by identifyingdifferent considerable to with of which, chambers, uncertainty,the names Calidarium, Laconicum, Tepidarium, Frigidarium, "c., have been affixed, In contemplating antiquities,' says Livy, the mind itself becomes antique.' introduced with the The habits of luxury and inertia which were the principal causes magnificent baths of the emperors were among
' '

decline and fall of Rome, and the vices which were couraged enin the baths found their reaction in the impression of the early Christians that uncleanliness an was a virtue, impression which is retained by several of the Monastic Orders to the present like giganticclubs. Thousands of the Roman day. They were frittered their hours which in these halls, youth magnificent away the were senses. provided with everything which could gratify Poets were wont to recite their verses to those who were reclining in the baths. In medio qui sunt multi, quique lavantes : Scripta foro recitent,
'

of the

Suave

locus voci resonat

conclusus.'

Horace, Sat. i. iv. 74.

'

These

Thermae

of Caracalla,which

were

one

mile in circumference, and

open

and the people, conservice of the senators at stated hours for the indiscriminate tained above sixteen hundred seats of marble. The walls of the loftyapartments covered with curious mosaics that imitated the art of the pencil in elegance were The Egjptian granite was fully beautiof design and in the variety of their colours. of Xuniidia. The encrusted with i^e precious green marble perpetual of hot water wide was poured into the capacious basins through so many could pm-chase, with of bright and massy silver ; and the meanest Roman and luxury which of pomp coppericoin, the daily enjoyment of a scene of Asia. From the the these excite of kings statelypalaces issued might envy of dirty and ragged plebeians,without shoes and without mantle ; forth a swarm who whole and to hold loitered away days in the street or forum, to hear news of their in extravagant gaming, the miserablejpittance disputes ; who dissipated, wives and children,and spent the hours of the night in the indulgence of gross stream

mouths a small

and

Gibbon. vulgar sensuality.'"

us

' Let thermae.

follow

He

of the elegant youths of Rome into one one at his entrance is welcomed by the ostiarins,or

of the great porter, a tall

Baths

of Caracalla

249

wardrobeor majestic felli)\vwith a sword at his side, and by the capmri^ts, follows a general salutation and Then keeper, who takes charge of his wraps. kissingof friends,exchange of the last topics and scandals ot the day; reading
the kind of The visitor then selects diitnia. the newspapers, acta or bath wliich may suit his particular case cold, tepid, warm, shower, or perhath. The hath over, the real business begins, as, for example, taking 8piratir"n the beautiful grounds, indulging in athletic sports a constitutional ui" and down or sinvple gymnastics to restore circulation,and to prepare himself for the of
"

delights of
'

the

t^ihle.

could supply him with meal the gigantic club-house Tlie luxurious finished, concerts, literaryentertainments, reading : libraries, every kind of amusement of the latest poems liarnum-like or novels,pojnilaror shows, conversaticm with the noblest and most beautiful wcmien. Very often a second bath was taken to for the evening meal. All this cf)uld be done by three or four thousand prepare confusion and without at the or same one delay, because of the time, persons great numl)er of sei-vants and slaves attached to the establishment.'" Lfl?M;iani, ' Aiicient Rome.'

of baths was entirelycarried on by means about, underground passages, which enabled the slaves to move and appear of w ith the crowd when without wanted, interfering bathers. mosaic In the first great hall was found, in 1824, the immense Endless in Lateran the Museum. now pavement of the pugilists, here from time to time, among works of art have been discovered them collection of statues the Bull, the the best of the Farnese which were torso of the Hercules,^and the Flora dug up in 1534, decorations when Paul III. carried off all the stillremaining marble of of the baths to use for the Farnese Palace. the pillars The last hence from is that which to be removed supports the statue of Justice in the Piazza S. Trinith, at Florence. A winding stair leads to the top of the walls,which once were well worth ascending, there receive as well for the idea which you of the vast size of the ruins, as for the lovelyviews of the Campagna, which obtained between the bushes of lentiscus and phillyrea were with which till latelythey were fringed. It was seated on these The service of the
" "

now
"

so

bare and

wrote hideous,that Shelley

his

Prometheus

nr"
the mountainous ruins of the Baths of thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees in ever-winding labyrinths upon which are extended its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the vigorous awakening spring in the divinest climate, and the new life with the spiritseven which it drenches to intoxication, the inspiration of the were drama.' Preface to the 'Prometheus.'
poem
was
'

This

Caracalla,among

chieflywritten upon the flowery glades and

"

les murailles Maintenant sont nues, sauf quelques fragments de chapiteaux oublit-^spar l:idestruction ; mais elles conservent de ce (lue seules des mains geant pourraieut leur oter,leur masse eirasante,la grandeur de leurs aspects, la su])liinitede leurs mines. On ne regrette rien quand on contemple ces 6normes ( t pittorcsciues del^ris, baignes i\midi par une ardente lumitre ou se remplissant (I'ombres a la toml)ee de la unit,s't!lan(,^ant immense a une hauteur ciel vers un et melancoliques, ciel grisatre ou eblouissant,ou se dressant, monies sous un montant la plate-fonne in6gale,crevassee, couverte d'arbustes sur bien, lorsque,
"

'

1 It is an instance of the singulardispersion of ancient fragments at Rome, that the head of this statue was found at the bottom of a well in the Trastevere, and the legson a farm ten miles from the city.

250
et de tapissee gazon,
on

Walks
comme voit,

in Rome

la campagne

du haut d'une colline, d'un c6W se derouler horizon de montagnes qui la tannine, de I'autre,apparaitre, ainsi qu'une montagne de plus, le dome de Saint- Pierre,la seule des oeuvres de I'liomme qui ait quelque chose de la gi-andeur des oeuvres de I"ien.'" Ampere, Emp. ii. 286.
romaine et le merveilleux

The name of the lane which leads to the baths ( Via alV Antoniana) the fact recalls like mockery, Carathat, ' with a vanity which seems calla dared to bear the name of Antoninus,'which was always dear to the Koman people. From this point to the gate, Kome remains what it was more before the change of Government than in any other quarter,and there is a charm in the old walls overgrown with pellitory and even stonecrop. Passing under the wall of the Government garden for shrubs for the publicwalks, and by the Vigna where raising Signer Guidi unearthed a splendid mosaic pavement of Tritons ridingon terestin inreach on the right SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, a most we dolphins, little church. The tradition runs that S. Peter, going to execution,let drop here one of the bandages of his wounds, and that marked the spot was by the earlyChristians with an oratory, which of Fasciola. and Achilles,eunuchs bore the name Nereus in the service of Flavius Clemens and Flavia Domitilla (members of the having suffered imperialfamily exiled to Pontia under Diocletian), their bodies at were martyrdom Terracina, transportedhere in when the oratory was 524 by John I., enlargedinto a church, which rebuilt in Leo III., in 795. The church restored under was was Cardinal the sixteenth took who his title Baronius, century, by In his work he desired that the ancient basilica from hence. carried out, and all the ancient character should be carefully ments ornaof the church were His anxiety preservedand re-erected. should not meddle that his successors with or injure these objects of antiquity is shown slab in the on a marble by the inscription tribune
:
"

nierita horum

Successor quisquis fueris,rogo te, per gloriam Dei, et per nihil martyrum, demito, nihil minuito, nee mutato ; restitutam antiquitatem pie servato ; sic Deus martyrum suorimi precibussemper adjuvet !

'Presbyter Card.

'

chancel is raised and surrounded by an inlaid marble screen. for ambones of there two Instead are plain marble reading-desks is of the most and Gospel. The candelabrum the Epistle exquisite and delicate beauty. The altar is inlaid,and has ' transennae,' or a marble grating, through which the tomb of the saints Nereus and The the faithful might pass Achilles may be seen, and through which in the semicircular choir, their handkerchiefs to touch it. Behind, is an ancient throne, supported by lions,and ending in episcopal a gothic gable. Upon it part of the twenty-eighth homily of S. Gregory was engraved by Baronius, under the impression that it delivered thence comb, was reallyfirst read in the catathough it was removed. All not bodies of the the saints whence were yet under Leo III., in the of the restoration these decorations are mosaics the arch Of the the on are same eighth century. period
"

252
who received

Walks

in Rome

from his commission Father Mullooly,Prior of S. to which S. Sisto is now convent Clemente, the Irish Dominican annexed. frescoes represent three miracles of The three principal in each case of raising S. Dominic from the dead. One represents the resuscitation of a mason of the new had fallen who monastery from a scaffold ; another, that of a child in a wild and beautiful Italian landscape ; the third, the restoration of Napoleone Orsini this the mesmeric lifeless youth being of the on upspringing spot most powerfullyrepresented. The whole chapel is highlypicturesque, and effective in colour. Of two inscriptions, one rates commemoof Orsini ; the other, a prophecy of S. Dominic the raising of two monks who deserted their convent. as to the evil end Just beyond S. Sisto,where the Via della Ferratella branches off to the left to the Lateran, stands a small aediculum, or Shrine on of the Lares, with brick niches for statues. Farther the right,standing back from kind of piazza, on a adorned with an ancient granitecolumn, is the Church of S. Cesareo, which already existed in the time of S. Gregory the Great, but modernised under Clement VII. (1523-34). Its interior retains was its ancient features. of The pulpit is one of the most quisite exmany specimens of church decoration in Rome, and is covered delicate sculpture, with the most with mosaic ; the interspersed in the carving of the of the Evangelists introduced emblems are is richlyencrusted with mosaics, probably panels. The high-altar by the Cosmati family; tiny owls form part of the decorations of of its pillars. Beneath, is a ' confession,'where two the capitals curtains the of The tomb the saint. over angels are drawing In the tribune is an chancel has an inlaid marble screen. ancient ornamented mosaics. with once throne, richly episcopal elected to the papal throne in 687 ; S. Sergius was In this church and here, also,an Abbot of SS. Vincenzo ed Anastasio was elected, in 1145, as Eugenius III., and was immediately afterwards forced and then to the Abbey by the opposingsenate to flyto Monticelli, his consecration took place. of Farfa, where Part of the Palace of the titular cardinal of S. Cesareo remains in the adjoininggarden, with an loggia of c. 1200, till interesting recently in its colour a splendidsubjectfor an artist. In this neighbourhood was the Piscina Publica, which gave a twelfth the of for to the It used name was city. Region learningto before the time of Festus, swim, but all trace of it had disappeared whose date is uncertain, but who lived before the end of the fourth
"
"

century.
'

In therm Piscinam

as

fugio : peto : non

son

as ad aurem licet natare.'

; iii. 44.

Martial,Ep.

towards Here a lane turns on the left, the ancient Porta Latina, of the time of Arcadius and Honorius (throughwhich the Via Latina led to Capua), now closed. In front of the gate is a little chapel, of the sixteenth century,

Porta
called S. Giovanni

Latina

253

with indifferent frescoes, on in Oleo, decorated into a caldron S. John is said to have been thrown the spot where ' forth as from he came from which of boilingoil (under Doraitian), in which mentions the vessel Mirabilia bath.' The a refreshing in the twelfth century.' It is the set as 'being shown S. John was in the burning oil which suifering gave S. John the palm of a martyr, which he is often in art. The festival of S. John with represented Port. Lat.' (May 6th) is preserved in the English Church ante
'

Calendar. On the left is the Church of S. Giovanni a Porta Latina, built in 1190 by Celestine III. In spite of many modernisations,the last by Cardinal Rasponi in of its ancient character more 1686, this building retains externally than most Roman churches, in its fine campanile and the old brick and apse, decorated walls of the nave with terra-cotta friezes. The is entered arch columns. by a narrow restingon two granite portico ribbon and the altar have the peculiar The entrance-door mosaic decoration of the Cosmati of 1190. The frescoes ai-e all modern ; in the tribune are the deluge and the baptism of Christ" the type and antitype. Of the ten columns, eightare simpleand of granite, fluted and of porta-santa, two are showing that they were not made from some for the church, but removed building probably pagan from the temple of Ceres and Proserpine. Near the entrance is a
"

and at Venice Well, like those so common decorated with intricate of rich an Padua, pattern carving. In the opposite vineyard,behind the chapel of the Oleo, very situated under the Aurelian Wall, is the Columbarium ])icturesquely of Octavia. A columbarium of the Freedmen was a tomb containing of cineraryurns in niches like pigeon-holes, a number whence the columbaria in held name. number were common Many by a great of persons, and the niches could be obtained heritanc by purchase or inin other the heads of the houses possessed ; cases, great whole columbaria for their families and their slaves. In the present instance the columbarium than is more usually decorated, and, much it is far worth seeing than the columbaria more though smaller, which it is the custom to visit immediately upon the Appian Way. One of the cippi, above the staircase, is beautifully decorated with shells and mosaic. is a chamber, whose vault is delicately Below painted with vines and little Bacchi gathering in the vintage. Round the walls are arranged the urns, some of them in the form of temples,and very beautifully others designed, merely pots sunk into the wall,with conical lids, like pipkins let into a kitchen-range. A beautiful vase of lapis-lazuli found here has been transferred to the Vatican. very

marble picturesque

Via Appia, on the left, by a tall cypress is the entrance to the Tomb of the Scipios, "No. 13) or of the Gens in the tufa rock, discovered Cornelia, a small catacomb in 1780, from which the famous of L. sarcophagus ScipioBarbatus, and a

Proceeding along the

254

Walks

in Rome

bust of the poet Ennius,^were removed to the Vatican by Pius VII. The skeleton of Scipio was found in perfectpreservation. Pius VI. the and cornelian which it wore to the gold signet-ring gave it passed to Lord Beverley,and it is antiquary Dutens, from whom at Alnwick Castle. now
'

The Scipios' tomb contains no ashes The very sepulchres lie tenantless Of their heroic dwellers.'
*

2 now

Childe Harold.'

contadino The at the neighbouring farmhouse provideslights, with which one visit a labyrinth of steep narrow can passages, some of them still retaining inscribed slabs of peperino. sepulchral Among the Scipios whose tombs have been discovered here were Lucius ScipioBarbatus and his son, the conqueror of Corsica ; Aula Africanus ; Cornelia,wife of Cneus ScipioHispallus; a son of Scipio Lucius Cornelius,son of ScipioAsiaticus ; Cornelius Scipio Hispallus and his son Lucius Cornelius. At the farther end of these passages, and now, like them, subterranean, may be seen the pediment and ' of the tomb entrance arched towards the Via Latina. It is uncertain whether ScipioAfricanus was buried at Liternum or in the In the time of Livy monuments to him extant were family tomb. ^ in both places.' The Cornelian gens always retained the custom of burying instead of burning their dead. from the vineyard above There is a beautiful view towards Rome the tomb. A little farther on, left (No. 14), is the entrance of the Vigna extortionate custode), containing Codini (a private garden with an Three four interesting of these are largesquare vaults, Columbaria. which, as well as the walls,is persupported by a central pillar, forated The fourth has three vaulted passages. by niches for urns. of the more Some important persons have miniature sarcophagi. barber a a lady's-maid ('ornatrix'), inscriptions the of dumb buffoon Tiberius imperial household, and even T. Caesaris lusor'), a favourite (* lapdog,'the delightof commemorated. its mistress,' are The Arches of Trajan and Verus, which crossed the road within

Amongst

other

attached

to the

the walls,have been destroyed, but justwithin the gate stillstands the Arch of Drusus. On its summit the remains of the aqueduct are by which Caracalla carried water to his baths.'* The arch once sup-

This bust has been supposed to represent the poet Ennius,the friend of Scipio Africanus,because his last request was that he might be buried by his side. Even of the Scipios. in the time of Cicero,Ennius was believed to be buried in the tomb Carus fuit Africano superiori noster Ennius ; itaque etiam in sepulchro Scipionum Ci". Orat. pro Arch. Poeta. putatur is esse constitutus e marmore.'" Not for the Scipioswould submit to cremation, which never I'eally 'ashes,' they thought incompatible with their ancient lineage. 3 Dyer's Hist, of the City of Rome. * Middleton that the Arch of (Remains of Ancient Rome, ii. 172) maintains Drusus arch of Cai'acalla's aqueduct where it crossed was merely an ornamental the Via Appia.
1
'
-

Porta

San

Sebastiano

255

and a seated equestrianstatue of Drusus, two trophies, female figure Germany. representing of the The Arch of Drusus decreed by the senate in honour was second of the Empress Livia by her first husband, Tiberius son Nero. father of Germanicus He was and the Emperor Claudius, and brother of Tiberius. He died during a campaign on the Khine, B.C. 9,and was brought back by his stepfather Augustus to be buried in his own ascribed mausoleum. His virtues are attested in a poem

portedan

to

Pedo

Albinovanus.

'ITiis arch, " Marmoreuni with arcum cum 1),is, tropaeo Appia Via" (Suet. 'he exception of the Pantheon, the most perfect existingmonnment of Augustan It is heavy, plain, and narrow, iiohitecture. with all the dignifiedbut stern simplicitywhich belongsto the character of its age.'" iferiroie. for one who loves the very stones of Rome to pass over all the arise in his mind as he thinks of the great Apostle treading the rude and massive pavement of the Appian Way, and passing under the Arch of Drusus at the Porta S. Sebastiano,toiling up the Capitoline Hill past the Tabulariuni of the Capitol, dwelling in his hued house in the Via Lata or elsewhere, in the Praetorian imprisoned in those painted caves Camp, and at last pouring out his blood for Christ at the Tre Fontane,on the road to Ostia.'" Deavi Alford's Study of the 2*610 Testament,' p. 335.
'

It is hard

thoughts which

"

The Arch of Drusus from sometimes called 'arcus stillae,' was the dripping of the aqueduct over it. The pope S. Stephen was and held in ad arcum stillae.' a carcere imprisoned synod The Porta San Sebastiano, the ancient Porta Appia, has two fine semicircular of the Aurelian towers Wall, restingon a basement of marble blocks,probably plundered from the tombs on the Via to the repulse Appia. Under the arch is a gothicinscription relating of some unknown invaders.^ It was here that the senate and peopleof Rome received in state the last triumphant procession which has entered the cityby the Via Appia, that of Marc Antonio Colonna, after the victory of
'

in 1571. As in the processionsof the old Roman children of the conquered prince were forced to attended triumph of the victor, who rode into Rome

Lepanto

generals,

the

Roman nobles, 'in abito di grande standard of the fleet. From the gate,the Clivus Martis (crossedby the railway to Civita Vecchia) descends into the valleyof the Almo, where antidiuaries On the hillside stood a Temple formerly placedthe Porta Capena'. of Alars,vowed in the Gallic war, and dedicated by T. Quinctius, the duumvir sacris faciundis,' in B.C. 387. No remains exist of this temple. It was 'approached from the Via Capena by a portico, which must have rivalled in lengththe celebrated porticoat Bologna to the church of the Madonna di S. Luca.'^ This was extending the placewhere S. Sixtus was In the legendary Acts of beheaded.
'

the adorn all the by formalith,'^ preceded by the

In the

Einsiedlen

MS.

an

century, describes the walls with

towere.
2 3

unknown in the ninth writer,who visited Rome their fourteen (still gates and 383 existing)

Memorrie Colonm^, j). 342, Copi)i, See Dyer's Uist. of the City of Rome, p. 85.

256
S.

Walks

in Rome

is described as having fallen down upon the Near this,a temple was erected to Tempestas prayer of the saint. in B.C. 260, by L. Cornelius the narrow to commemorate Scipio, escape of his fleet from shipwreck off the coast of Sardinia.^ Near small estate of twenty acres, a this,also,the poet Terence owned him his friend to by Scipio Emilianus.'-^ presented the bridge over Near the Almo, at the entrance of the land of of Livia was tombs,^ the Columbarium discovered of the Freedmen in 1725, containing six rooms and the remains of no less than six thousand servants and their families. Of these no less than six hundred attached of to the person were Livia,and included a Lydus, a sede Augustae,keeper of her armchair Aurelia, a cura catcUac, ; an care-taker of her lapdog ; a Syneros, ad imagines, who took care of the familyportraits, "c. After crossing the brook,we pass between two conspicuous tombs. That on the left is the Tomb of SeptimiusSeverus, the of Geta, son murdered of brother of Caracalla ; that on the right is the Tomb of favourite freedman of wife Domitian. Abascantius, a Priscilla,
'

Stephen,the temple

Est locus ante lu-bem, qua primum nascitur ingens Italo gemitus Almone Cybele Appia, quaque Ponit, et Idaeos jam non reminiscitur amnes. molliter ostro Hie te Sidoiiio velatam busta Eximius conjux (nee enim fumantia Clamoremque rogi potuit perferre)beato toro.' Composuit, Priscilla,

Statms, Sylv.v. i. 222.

beyond this, the Via Ardeatina branches off on the right, after about two miles, the picturesque Vigna Marancia, a passing,
Just

pleasant spot, with fine old pines and cypresses. is the Church of Domine taining Where the roads divide, Quo Vadis, cona footprintsaid to have been left copy of the celebrated to S. Sebastiano. here by our Saviour : the original being removed
the Christians the accusation After the burning of K-ome, Nero threw upon the origin of the first persecution,in which of having fired the city. This was The christian converts perished by terrible and hitherto unheard-of deaths. many besought Peter not to expose his life. As he fled along the Appian Way, met about two miles from the gates,he was by a vision of our Saviour travelling towards the city. Struck with amazement, he exclaimed, "Lord, whither goest him with a mild sadness, replied, Thou?'^to which the Saviour, looking upon " I go to Rome to be crucified a second Peter,taking this time," and vanished. to submit to the sufferingsprepared for him, he was himself as a sign that in statue, now immediately turned back to the city.4 Michelangelo's famous he to Christ of S. Maria is as the church represent supposed Minerva, sopra appeared to S. Peter on this occasion. A cast or copy of it is in the little church of "Domine, Quo Vadis." 'It is surprising that this most beautiful,picturesque, and, to my fancy it seems to me, in treated ; and never, seldom as sublime legend has been so that and high significance. It is seldom manner a worthy of its eapabilities
'

1 2

See

Dyer's Hist, of the Cityof Rome, Ihid.,p. 122.

p. 97.

3 No times beyond the discovered in modern less than 1559 tombs have been the Via Appia and Via Latina. Aurelian Wall, in the triangularspace between i This story is told by S. Ambrose.

Catacombs
a

of S. Calixtus
these
two

257

flpuresplaced in such grand majesty, and radiant with all the joy of beatitude,yet with an expression of gentle reproach ; the Apostle at liis feet, arrested in his flight, amazed, and yet filled with a trembling joy ; and for the background the wide Campagna or towering walls of imperial Rome.'"
story
can

and

dramatic

\"c tultl by two figures, and contrast : Christ in Hia

serene

Mrs. Jamenon.^

is a second the church Bivium,' or cross- ways, where a an lane on the left leads up the Valle Caffarelle. Here, feeling Saviour which where the our was appeared to uncertainty crossing second S. Peter, the English Cardinal Pole erected a tiny chapel of 'Domine Quo Vadis,' wliich remains to this day. Columbaria this are assigned to the Volusii and the Caecilii. near Over the wall on the left of the Via Appia now hangs in profusion the rare yellow-berried ivy [Edcra chysocarpia).It is represented is the pendant of in the mosaic of the Capitol,which Doves," where there are two masks, one of them crowned "Pliny's it was wreaths of ivy because with this ivy. Banqueters wore curious heads. their to wine from to Many supposed going prevent

Beyond

'

walls. Their commonest plantsare to be found on these old Roman the nickname calls to mind the Pellitory Uerha pcirietina' parasite, given to the Emperor Trajan in derision of his passionfor which he his name inscribing buildings upon the walls of Roman had merely restored,as if he were their founder ; a passionin which the popes have since largely participated.
^
"
"

Wo

now

reach

the (on the right)

entrance

of the Catacombs

of

S. Calixtus.

(The Catacombs [except those at S. Sebastiano] can only be visited in company to obtain a pennesso : upon it is necessary guide. For most of the Catacombs which a day (generally Sunday) is fixed,which must be adhered to. It may be well for the visitor to provide himself with tapers" ccn/u'. The Catacombs of 8. Calixtus are superficially at all times without a special permesso, shown and are quite sufficient for the requirements of the ordinary tourist. A visit of Cook's wicket gate at 1 fr. a head, in a crowd to these, through the usual alike impossible.) renders study and sentiment tourists,
(

"f a

if

of dangers attending a visit to the Catacombs, descriptions are quite accompanied by a guide and provided with 'cerini,' suffer from cold Neither the visitor does ever imaginary. ; the All is mild and
warm

temperature of the Catacombs

almost
'

; the

vaults

are

always dry, and the air pure.

Roman

^^he

consecrated by long usage, but having no etymologica are a vast geographical one" very determinate in the hills around of galleriesexcavated la in the lK)wels of the earth labyrinth by but those the city itself was Eternal City ; not in the hills on which built, of superto the amount as yond the walls. 'ITieir extent is enormous ; not
The

Catacombsand

name a

meaning,

not

tialsoil "lestone often the ve

which they underlie, for they rarely,if ever, pass beyond the third frt)m the city, but in the actual length of their galleries ; for these various excavated or on levels, piani, three,four, or even five one at short other ; and they cross and recross one another, sometimes
"

The

in story is represented ilarcell. lib. xxvii.

I.
c.

one

of the ancient

in tapestries

the Cathedral

of

Anagni.
'"iAmm.

VOL.

258
intervals,on
each

Walks

in Rome

of these levels ; so that, on the whole, there are certainly of them out in one continuous ; that is to say, if stretched extend the whole length of Italy itself.i The galleriesare line, they would from in height according to the nature two to four feet in width, and vary of the rock in which they are dug. The walls on both sides are pierced with in a bookcase horizontal niches, like shelves berths in a steamer, and every or contained At various dead bodies. niche once intervals this one or more is interrupted for a moment, of shelves that room succession be made may for a doorway opening into a small chamber ; and the walls of these chambers as the galleries. are generally pierced with graves in the same way ' formed the ancient christian cemeteries of Rome These vast excavations once ; to be used as liurial-places they were begun in apostolic times, and continued of the faithful till the capture of the city by Alaric in the year 410. In the Church numbered third century the liomaji twenty-five or twenty-six of them, of her titles, or corresponding to the number parishes, within the city; and about besides these, there were twenty others of smaller dimensions, isolated of special martyrs, or belonging to this or that monuments private family. all belonged to private families or individuals, the villas or they Originally dug being the property of wealthy citizens who gardens in which they were to His service. the faith of Christ,and devoted of their substance had embraced of their Hence ancient titles were taken their most merely from the names of which still survive. lawful owners, Lucina, for example, who lived many in the days of the Apostles, and others of the same family, or at least of the lived various in next the who at two centuries ; Priscilla, periods same name, also a contemporary of the Apostles ; Flavia Domitilla, niece of Vespasian ; the whose Via Commodilla, property lay on the Via Ostiensis ; Ciriaca, on Tiburtina ; Pretextatus, on the Via Appia ; Pontiano, on the Via Portuensis ; and Thraso, all on the Via Salaria Nova. These and the Jordani, Maximus still attached to the various originally are catacombs, because they were names bore them. Other catacombs known the land of those who are begun upon of those who presided over their formation, as that of S. CalLxtus, by the names Via the on Appia ; or S. Mark, on the Via Ardeatina ; or of the principal bm-ied in them, as SS. Hermes, Basilla, Protus, and Hyacinthus, martyrs who were the Via Salaria Vetus on by some peculiarityof their position,as ad ; or, lastly, the Via Labicana. on the Via Appia, and ad duas Lauros Catacumbas on of learning who have had an oppormen 'It has always been agreed among tunity used exclusivelyby the of examining these excavations, that they were Modern Christians as places of burial and of holding religious assemblies. also originally has now research placed it beyond a doubt that they were not deserted and for no other : that they were pits sanddesigned for this purpose to christian but with a or development, quarries,adapted uses, {arenariae) even important modifications,of a form of sepidchre not altogether unknown the Jews both families of Rome, and in common the heathen use among among and elsewhere. in Rome the catacombs done openly, without let of making 'At first the work was to them were public, on the or hindrance, by the Christians ; the entrances rated and the galleriesand chambers were freelydecohighroad or on the hillside, But early in the third century it with paintings of a sacred character. them much the public eye ; to withdraw as as possible from became necessary of deserted effected in the recesses now were and often difficult entrances new the libertyof christian art was cramped and fettered,lest arenariae, and even what was holy should fall under the profane gaze of the unbaptized. ' i.e. times e\i\\evhy2)ogaeum, called in ancient was Each of these buiial-places
not less than 350 miles
a subterranean generically,

place, or coemetermm,

a sleeping-place,

new

name

could only repeat, probably without standing; underof christian origin which the pagans also martyrium or sometimes confessio (its Latin equivalent), to of the faith. An the burial-place of martyrs or confessors signify that it was if it locxis contained or or called a body londus, single was ; ordinary grave The two, three, or four. bisomum, trisomum, or quadrisomum, if it contained called depositio.The galleries and burial in them was dug by fossores, graves were called had any specificname do not seem to have were ; but the chambers

1 Michele Stefano at 587 miles.

de Rossi calculates the

aggregatelengthof catacomb

galleries

260

Walks

in Rome

all the catacombs the first and third Almost between are milestones from the Aurelian Wall, to which pointthe cityextended in obedience to the Roman built. This was before the wall itself was burial within the precinctsof the city. forbade law which not to burn The fact that the Christians were always anxious was their dead, but to bury them in these rock-hewn sepulchres, Himself Lord that our was probably owing to the remembrance

places.

out tomb hewn of the rock,'and perhaps also for laid ' in a new the bodies were this reason wrapt in fine linen cloths, and buried found in the remains have been with precious spices, of which tombs. S. Calixtus is composed of a The Catacomb which is known as of catacombs, once number b ut distinct, now joinedtogether. Such those of S. Lucina ; of Anatolia, daughter of the consul were of S. Soteris,' a virgin of the family to which Aemilianus ; and buried in and who was S. Ambrose belonged in a later generation,' coemeterio were suo,'a.d. 304. The passages of these catacombs belonged to the gradually united with those which originally cemetery of Calixtus. of ruin which meets The high mass our eyes on first entering the of of the tomb of the Caecilii, vineyard of S. Calixtus is a remnant this of epitaphs have been found. which family a number Beyond is another ruin, supposed by Marangoni to have been the basilica burial and that of his which S. Damasus provided for his own mother and sister ; which Padre Marchi believed to be the church of
'

and S. Marcellinus, but which De Rossi identifies with the S. Mark sometimes of S. Cecilia cella memoriae, sometimes called of S. Sistus, (because built immediately over the graves of those martyrs),by S. Fabian in the third century.^
edifice has the shape of a square hall with three apses" ceZ^a trichora. the part of the catacombs which was excavated in the time of Pope is known raised multas Fabianus to have fabricas per (A.D. 236-250), who is exactly that of the coemetena ; it is probably his work, as the styleof masonry covered with a wooden first half of the third century. The originalschola was In the year 258, while Sixtus II., attended by roof,and had no facade or door. and Felicissimus at this his deacons a meeting Agapetus, was presiding over invaded the schola, place in spite of the prohibition of Valerian, a body of men murdered the bishop and his acolytes,and razed the building nearly to the level Half a century later, restored of the ground. in the time of Constantine, it was line to its originalshape with the addition of a vaulted roof and a fagade. The which separates the old foundation of Fabianus from the restorations of the age is clearlyvisible. Later the schola was of peace cated changed into a church and dediwho of Syxtus, who to the memory had lost his life there, and of Caecilia, buried in the crypt below. It ])ecame a gi'eat was place of pilgrimage, and the itineraries mention it as one of the leading stations on the Appian Way. WTien De Rossi first visited the place, the famous of Syxtus schola or chm-ch and Caecilia was used as a wine-cellar, while the crypts of Caecilia and Cornelius to his initiative, used as vaults. Thanks the monimient has again become were of Rome the property of the Church ; and after a lapse of ten or twelve centuries in it in April 1892. divine service was resumed Its walls have been covered with found in the adjoining cemetery.' Lanciani. inscriptions
'

The

It is built over

"

Rom^i

Sotterranea, p.

130,

Chapel
Descending into
reach

of the

Popes

261

by an ancient staircase restored, cubiculum the right) the Chapel on (passing sepulchral of and burial of of the third fourth of the Popes, a place or worship taining century as it was restored after its discovery in 1854, but still reof the marble faced by remains slabs with which it was Sixtus III. in the fifth century, and of marble columns, "c., with adorned which it was by S. Leo III. (795-816). Over the entrance is inscribed Dni.' Gerusale(m) civitas et ornamentum martyrum The walls are lined with graves of the earliest popes, many of them viz.,S. Zephyrinus (202-211); S. Pontianus, who died in martyrs banishment in Sardinia (231-236) ; S. Anteros, martyred under Maximian of his pontificate in the second month (236); S. Fabian, martyred under Decius (236-250); S. Lucius,martyredunder Valerian (25;"-255) ; S. Stephen I. martyred in his episcopal chair, under Valerian of (255-257); S. Sixtus II., martyred in the Catacombs
we

the

catacomb

'

"

(257-260) ; S. Dionysius (260-271) ; S. Eutychianus, martyr (275-283); and S. Caius (284-296). Of these,the gravestones of Anteros, Fabian, Lucius, and Eutychianus have been discovered, with inscriptions in Greek, which is acknowledged to have been the
earliest
were

S. Pretextatus

language of the Church

in which the

"

in which

S. Paul

and

S. James

wrote, and

carried on.^ to the other popes here from the earliest authorities. the Calixtus, who founded and of was martyred by being thrown from the window cemeterj', his house near S. Maria in Trastevere, is not buried here, but in the Catacomb of Calepodius. of the beautifully-cut Over the site of the altar is one inscriptions of Pope S. Damasus whose labour of love it to rewas (366-384), discover the tombs, which had been blocked for concealment up under the earth, widen the passages, adorn Diocletian, to remove chambers the sepulchral with marble, and support the friable tufa
'

proceedingsof the first twelve Councils have been found relating Though no inscriptions buried to have been mentioned, they are known

walls with

arches
'Hie

of brick and

stone.'

si turba Pionini, congesta jacet qiiaeris retineiit veneranda Corpora Sanctorum sepulclira, Hublinies aninias rapiiit sH)i llegiaCueli : Hie coniites Xysti portant (jui hoste tropaea ; ex Hie nwmerus servat (Hii altaria C'hristi; procerum Hie positus long;"i vixit qui in pace Sacerdos ; Hie Confessores
Hie sancti quos

Graecia

niisit ;

senes juvenes puericiue, casti(|ue nepotes, Quis mage virgineum placuit retinere pudorem. Hie fateor Damasus volui mea i("n"kTe meml)ra,

Sed eineres tinuii sanctos

'

vexare

Piornm.'

of the holy ; Here, if you would know, lie heaped together a number ITiese honoured sepulchres inclose the bodies of the saints. Their loftysouls the palace of heaven has received. Here lie the companions of Xystus, who bear away the trophiesfrom the enemy Here a tribe of the elders which guard the altars of Christ ;

1 2

Roma Sotterranea, p. Ibid., p. 97.

177.

262

Walks

in Rome

Here is buried the priestwho lived long in peace ; * Here the holy confessors who came from Greece : 2 Here lie youths and boys, old men and their chaste descendants, Who kept their virginityundefiled. Here I Damasus wished to have laid my limbs, But feared to disturb the holy ashes of the saints. ',3

From this chapel we enter the Cubiculum where the of S. Cecilia, saint of after the buried her friend Urban her martyrdom was body by in her own house in the Trastevere (see Chap. XVII.), a.d. 224, and where it was discovered in 820 by Pope Paschal I. (to whom its resting-place had been revealed in a dream), fresh and perfectas when it was first laid in the tomb, and clad in rich garments mixed with blood rolled up at her feet, gold,with linen cloths stained with lying in a cypress coffin.''* Close to the entrance of the cubiculum, upon the wall,is a painting ' of Cecilia,a woman richlyattired,and adorned with bracelets and burned necklaces.' Near it is a niche for the lamp which before the shrine,at the back of which is a large head of our Saviour, ' of the Byzantine type, and with rays of glorybehind it in the form of Side by side with this, but on the flat surface of the a Greek cross. wall, is a figureof S. Urban (friendof Cecilia,who laid her body inscribed.' robes, with his name here) in full pontifical Higher on the wall are figuresof three saints, executed apparently in the the fifth century fourth,or perhaps even Polycamus, an unknown martyr, with a palm branch ; Sebastianus,and Curinus, a bishop (Quirinus, Bishop of Siscia buried at S. Sebastiano). In the pavement is a gravestone of Septimus Pretextatus Caecilianus,'a servant ' of God, who considered lived worthy for three-and-thirty -years between connection the as family of Cecilia important suggesting a in whose and that of S. Praetextatus, catacomb the other side of on the Appian Way her husband and brother-in-law were buried, and friend concealed. where her S. Urban was which it is necessary to dwell These two chapels are the only ones of is shown here in the catacomb in varying detail. The rest upon Three pointsare of historic order,and explained in different ways. interest. 1. The roof-shaped tomb of Pope S. Melchiades, who lived of Pope S. long in peace and died a.d. 313. 2. The Cubiculum
' ' '
"
"

"

Eusebius, in the middle of which is placedan inscription, pagan on of the of the fifth of restoration the other a one one on side, century beautiful inscriptions of Pope Damasus, which is thus translated :
"

'

Heraclius
ones

forbade
to weep

the

lapsed to grievefor
The

their sins.

unhappy
1

for their crimes.

people

were

Eusebius taught those rent into parties, and

S.

Melchiades, buried
in

in another

part of the catacomb, who

was

peace
near were 2 3

after the persecution had ceased, and who his predecessors ' in coemeteriis Callisti in

lived long in the last pope to be buried cripta.'The succeeding popes others.

buried

chapels
was

above

the in the

Catacombs.

Hippolytus,Adrias, Marca, Neo, Paulina, and

buried

S. Damasus 4 'A more

the bones be diflacult to conceive.'"

above the entrance. strikingcommentarj' on the divine promise, "The Lord xxxiii. of His servants ; He will not lose one of them (Ps.

chapel

"

keepeth all it would 24),

iJoTwa Sotterranea.

Tombs
with

of the

Sainted

Popes

263

increasinp fury began sedition, slaughter, fighting,discord, and strife. banished by the cruelty of the Straightway lM)th (the pope and the heretic)were He bore inviolate. of bonds the the peace was preserving pope tyrant, although of shore the Sicily and on his exile with joy, looking to the Lord as his Judge,
gave

up the world

and

his life."

At

the top and

'

bottom

of the tablet is the

Eusebio

followingtitle :"

Damasua

Episcopus fecit

episcopo et martyri,'

and the
'

on name

to us down hands fileof letters which either side a single : the Damasine who executed of the sculptor inscriptions
"

Furius

Damaais DionysiusFilocalus scripsit

pappae

cultor atque amator.'

of S. Lucina, connected in the Catacomb 3. Near the exit, properly of is the tomb of with that of Calixtus by a labyrinth galleries, the only Roman bishop down to the time Pope S. Cornelius (251-252), of the bore family, who name of S. Sylvester any noble Roman (314) those in while in consequence) is and whose epitaph(perhaps Latin, has no chapel of its The tomb of the other popes are in Greek. instead of with a rectangular but is a mere own, grave in a gallery, Near the tomb are ments fraga circular space above,as in the cubicula. of S. Damasus, of one of the commemorative inscriptions restored by De Rossi thus : which has been ingeniously
"

'

Aspice,descensu extructo tenebrisque fugatis, sacratum. vides tumulumqne C'orneli monunienta Hoc opus aegroti Daniasi praestantiafecit, Esset ut accessus melior, populisque paratuni Auxilium sancti,et valeas si fundere puro melior Corde preces, Damasus posset, consiirgere laboris.' lucis amor, teniiit mage cura Queni non

and the darkness down has been constructed dispelled; you a way the zeal of This work of Cornelius and his sacred tomb. the monuments in order that the approach might be Damasus has accomplished, sick as he is, for the people ; and convenient better,and the aid of the saint might be made rise may that, if you will pour forth your prayers from a pure heart, Damasus but care for work, that up better in health, though it has not been love of life, i has kept him (here below).'
'

Behold,

see

Gallus to Centumcellae now for Rome thence to and was back tyrdom, marbrought day of the month, in Sept. 14th, A.D. 252. On the same 258, died his friend and correspondent S. Cyprian,Archbishop of on Carthage,- who is consequently commemorated by the Church the right of the same Therefore on day with S. Cornelius. also, S. Cornelius Civita Vecchia
was

banished

under

"

"

two the grave, are declaring figuresof bishops with inscriptions 3 Each holds the book of them to be S. Cornelius and S. Cyprian. ing the Gospelsin his hands, and is clothed in pontifical robes, includof the pallium,which had not yet been confined as a mark
'

Roma Sot terra nea, p. ISO. viii. 204. Alban Ihitler, 3 The remains of both, Cornelius from Rome, and reaioved to Compiegne by Charles le Chauve.
-

Cyprian from Carthage,were

264
distinction
to

Walks
i metropolitans,

in Rome

Beneath the pictures stands the pillarwhich held one of the vases of oil which were always kept before the shrines of the the tomb, at burning martyrs. Beyond the end of the gallery,is another painting of two bishops, S. Sistus II., of Pretextatus, and S. Optatus, martyred in the Catacomb who was buried near him.
'The Liher Pontificalis "The judgment in the Emperor Decius says: gave of Cornelius, that he should be taken to the Temple of Mars extra muros, and asked to perform an act of adoration ; in case of a refusal, that he should be beheaded. This was accordingly done, and Cornelius gave his life for his faith. Lucina, a noble matron, assisted by members of the clergy,collected his remains and buried them in a crypt on her own estate near the cemetery of Calixtus,on the Appian Way ; and this happened on Sept. 14 (A.D.253)." As the the recognised burial-place of the Bishops of Rome, Cemetei-y of Calixtus was is evident : the estate of why was this exception made to the rule ? The reason Lucina contained the family vault of the Cornelii, at least of a branch of the or Cornelian race. '"Lanciani.
case

of the Catacombs the discovery we owe as they first the broken neliits the marble saw words, Martyr, on are, and he at once in a neighbouring osteria, support of a wine-cask memorial of The Cornelius a recognised Pope did not martyr. in believe him, but permitted him to have the support he required for his investigations. The world called him imzzo, the Pope called him a sognatore. It was a when, after he had triumphant moment discovered the chapel with the tombs of the popes, he brought Pius IX. to see and Santo Padre, il sogno dello it, said, Ecco,
now
'

Rossi,to whom

sognatore.

'

this catacomb, and in most In going round of the others, the will visitor be shown of rude paintings, which will be number a explained to him in various ways, according to the tendencies of his guide. The to consist of be considered paintings may and three classes : symbolical; allegorical biblical ; and liturgical. introduced There is little variety of subject the same over are and over again. and over the graves The symbols most frequently introduced on
"

are

:"

The

The The

Aticlior, expressive of hope. Heb. vi. 19. Dove, symbolical of the christian soul released
Ps. Iv. 6.

from

nacle. its earthly taber-

Sheep, symbolical of the soul still wandering amid the pastures and deserts of earthly life. Ps. cxix. 176 ; Isa. liii.G ; .John x. 14, xxi. 15, 16, 17. of eternityand the resurrection. emblematical The Phoenix, 'the palm bird,' formed from the word tx^"") The Fish, typicalof our Saviour" by the initial letters of the titles of our Lord Xpio-To? "coi5 Yib? 2"oTprj 'Jesus 'Ir/aoi)?
" "

Christ,the
The back

Son

of

God,

the

Saviour.'

Ship, representing the

of the fish.

Church

militant,sometimes

seen

carried

on

the

Bread, represented with

carried in a basket on its back, fish,sometimes in allusion to the multiplicationof the sometimes with it on a table not thought complete loaves and fishes. In ancient times a meal was without fish, whenever it could be had ; ' bread and fish went together like 'bread and butter' in England.2
"

'

1 2

Roma Sotterranea,p. 182. See Stanley'sChristian Institutions, 50, 51.

Symbols

of the

Catacombs
in allusion to the Church. Ps. Ixxx. 8 ; Isa. v. 1. Rev. vii. 9.

265

A Female Figure Praying, an 'Orante'" A Vine, also in allusion to the Church. An Olive Branch, as a sign of peai^e.

AjPalm Of the

Branch,

as

and mai'tyrdom. sign of victory

The Good Shepherd aiul Biblical Representations, AUccjorical requiresan especialnotice from the importance which is given to it and its frequent introduction in Catacomb art, both in sculpture

and
'

painting.
as

of the early christian paintings is that of our interesting the lioocl Shei)herd,which is almost invariablypainted on the central it or of minor interest being disposed around space of the dome cupola, sul)jects in compartments, precisely in the style,as regards both the arrangement and execution, of the lieathen catacombs. ' lie is represeJited as a youth in a shepherd's frock and sandals, carrying the "lost sheep" on his shoulders, or leaning on his staff (the syml)ol,according to S. Augustine, of the christian hierarchy),while look the sheej) feed around or Sometimes he is represented seated in the midst of his flock, playing up at him. duced a on in a few instances,in the oldest catacombs, he is introshepherd's pii)e," in the character of Orpheus, surrounded by wild beasts enrapt by the melody of his lyre" Orpheus being then supposed to have been a prophet or of the Messiah. The precursor background usually exhibits a landscape or sometimes meadow, doves resting in their branches, planted with olive-trees, of the peace of the faithful ; in others, as in a fresco preservedin the syml)olical Museum Christianum,the palm of victory is introduced," but such combinations In one endless. are two or instances the surrounding compartments are filled with personifications natiu-al of the Seasons, whether of human life, apt emblems

By far the most

Saviour

spiritual. 'ITie sul)ject of the Good Shepherd, I am sorry to add, is not of Roman, but Oreek origin, and was adapted from a statue of Mercury carrying a goat at mentioned 'I'anagra, The christian composition approximates to by Pausanias. its original more is represented nearly in the few instances where our Saviour of the scapegoat of the wilderness. cariyiiiga goat, emblematical Singularly to the Byzantines by enough, though of Greek parentage, and recommended stantinople Constantine, who erected a statue of the Good Shepherd in the forum of Conthe subject did not become at them ; they seem, popular among to have tacitly abandoned it to Rome.'" Lord Lindsay's Christian Art.' least,
or
' '

'The Good to have been quite the favourite subject. We Shepherd seems cannot collection of part of the Catacom])S, or turn over go through any any ancient christian monuments, without it again and again. We coming across know from Tertullian that it was find it ouroften designed upon We chalices. selves painted in freseo upon the roofs and walls of the sepulchral chambers ;

rudely seratehed upon gravestones, or more carefullysculptured on sarcophagi ; Iraeed in gold upon glass, numlded on lam])s, engraved on rings ; and, in a word,
represented
Of course,
on

variety of treatment. cannf)t, however, appreciate the suggestion of Kugler, that this fre(|uent repetitionof the subject is prol)ablyto be attributed to the capabilities wliieh it i"o.ssessed in an artistic point of view. selected because Rather it was it expressed the whole sum and sul)stance of the christian dispensation. In the of the Old Testament, the action of Divine language even Providence ui)on the world is freijuently from exi"ressed by images and allegoriesl)orrowed pastoral life ; God is the Shepherd, and men His sheep. But in a still more are special our Divine Redeemer offers Himself way to our regards as the Good Shepherd.
a

amid We

every such

species of christian monument

multitude of

that has

come

down

to us.

examples, there

is considerable

He came down from His eternal throne into this wilderness of the world to seek the lost sheep of the whole human together into race, and having brought them fold on earth, thence to transport them one into the ever-verdaut pastures of Paradise.'" iioma Sotterranea.

The

fact that the

Good

Shepherd

was a

sometimes

as represented

bearinga kid, not a lamb ; a goat, not called forth an indignantremonstrance

sheep,upon

from

his Tertullian.

shoulder,

266
'

Walks

in Rome
doth
not
save :

He saves the sheep" the goats He So spake the fierce Tertullian.

But she sigh'd" The infant Church ! of love she felt the tide Stream her from her Lord's yet recent grave, on And then she sniil'd, and in the Catacombs, With eyes suffused,but heart inspired true, She her Good Shepherd's hasty image drew. And on His shoulders not a lamb, but kid.' Matthew

Arnold.

Other biblical subjects are from of Noah, Moses, Daniel, and Jonah
"

the

being

Old the

Testament

(those
at

only

ones

all

common)
1. The

"

2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

7.
8. 9. 10.

Fall. Adam and Eve on either side of a Tree of Knowledge, round which the serpent is coiled. Sometimes, instead of this,' Our Saviour (as the representativeof the Deity) stands between them, condemning them, and offeringa lamb to Eve and a sheaf of corn to Adam, to signifythe doom of themselves and their posterity to delve and to spin through all future ages.' The offeringof Cain and Abel. They present a lamb and sheaf of corn to a seated figureof the Almighty. in the Ark, represented as a box" a dove, bearing an olive branch, Noah flies towards him. the faithful Interpreted to express the doctrine that having obtained remission of their sins through baptism, have received saved in the from and are the Holy Spirit the gift of divine peace, mystical ark of the Church from the destruction which awaits the world. 'i (Acts ii.47.) Sacrifice of Isaac. Passage of the Red Sea. Moses receiving the Law. Moses strikingwater from the rock (verycommon). Moses pointing to the pots of manna. Elijah going up to heaven in a chariot of fire. The Three Children in the fieryfurnace" as symbolical of very common
'

martyrdom.
11. Daniel in the lions' den ; generally a naked figurewith hands extended, and a lion on either side (most common" as an encouragement to cliristian sufferers). horse. 12. Jonah swallowed up by the whale, representedas a strange kind of sea13. Jonah
14. Jonah 15. Jonah

the whale. the gourd ; or, according to the Vulgate, under the ivy. lamenting for the death of the gourd. These four subjects from the story of Jonah are constantly repeated, haps perto the Christians sufferingfrom the wickedness as encouragement and pray for. to warn of Home" the modern Isineveh, which they were

disgorgedby
under

Subjectsfrom
1. The 2. The

the Neio Testament

are

"

Nativity" the

Adoration of the stoi-y Saviour Saviour

3. Our 4. Our 5. Our 6. Our 7. Our 8. Our 9. Our

Saviour
Saviour

and the ass kneeling. ox with the of the Magi- repeatedly placed in juxtaposition Three Children. turning water into wine. of Samaria. conversing with the woman This is very who takes up his bed. healing the paralyticman" with the issue of blood. healing the woman multiplying the loaves and fishes. of Canaan. healing the daughter of the woman healing the blind man.
1

common.

Saviour Saviour Saviour

Roma

Sotterranea,p.

242.

268
of which

Walks

in Rome

the central figure is the Good Shepherd carrying a sheep upon His shoulders. This, however, has been destroyed by graves pierced through the the eager wall and the rock l"ehind it,from desire to bury the dead of a later as generation as near possible to the tombs of the martyrs. As De Rossi proceeded in detail, he could to examine these graves hardly believe his eyes when of them the edge of one he read around these words and fragments of words : Mi RefHgeri Januarhis Agapetus Felicissim martyres "Januarius, Agapetus, ." The words had been scratched Felicissimus,martyrs, refresh the soul of the mortar while it was of yet fresh,fifteen centuries upon ago, as the prayer bereaved relative for the soul of him whom some they were burying here, and now they revealed to the antiquarian of the nineteenth century the secret he was in quest of" viz.,the place of burial of the saints whose aid is here invoked; for the numerous in concluding examples to be seen in other cemeteries warrant us that the bodies of the saints, to whose intercession the soul of the deceased is here recommended, were at the time of his burial lying at no great distance.'" iJorna Sotterranea.
"

The

S. Januarius

buried

here

was

the

eldest of the

seven

sons

162. of S. Felicitas,martyred July 10, A.D. S. Agapetus and S. of Pope Sixtus IL, who Felicissimus deacons were were martyred ^ close him with and this S. Pretextatus catacomb in to together ' Sixtus II. had set at nought the Schola of S. Fabianus, because the commands of the Emperor Valerian.' ^ in the Catacomb A mutilated of S. Damasus of inscription of of Cornelius, thus records the death the tomb Calixtus, near

Pope Sixtus

"

'

Tempore quo gladius secuit pia viscera Matris Hie positus rector coelestia jussa docebam. Adveniunt subito,rapiunt qui forte sedentem ; Militibus missis,populi tunc colla dedere. Mox sibi cognovit senior quis tollere vellet caput prior obtulit ipse, Palmam, seque suumque Impatiens feritas posset ne laedere quemquam. Ostendit Christus reddit qui praemia vitae Pastoris meritum, uumerum gregis ipse tuetur.'

Mother the sword pierced the heart of our (Church), I, its 'At the time when the of heaven. buried was things Suddenly they came, they ruler, teaching here, seated as I was ;" the soldiers being sent in, the people gave their necks seized me who saw was willing to bear away the palm (to the slaughter). Soon the old man from head, fearing lest the himself,and was the first to offer himself and his own else. blow should fall on any one recog Christ,who awards the rewards of life, of His flock.' nises the merit of the pastor,He Himself is preserving the number

to

adjoiningcrypt,considered to date from A.D. 130, is believed this catacomb are of S, Quirinus. Above be the burial-place and of in erected honour of S. of two Zeno, remains basilicas, Tibertius, Valerian, and Maximus, companions of S. Cecilia in
An

martyrdom.
March service is held here on 24th, in the subterranean is celebrated when chapel,and the high mass martyr's hymn is sung over their graves. the right of the Via of S. Calixtus, on Behind the Catacomb Close to its ed Achilleo. of SS. Nereo Ardeatina, is the Catacomb
A

touching

and

beautiful

1 2

Alban Butler, viii.148. Lib. Pont.

Catacomb
entrance

of SS.

Nereo

ed

Achilleo

269

of Tor Marancia, where lieved some are ruins, beof the Villa Amaranthiana, which belonged to of the early christian Flavia Doraitilla. This celebrated member Church was daughter of the Flavia Domitilla who was sister of the Emperor Domitian, and wife of Titus Flavius Clemens, son of the Flavius Sabinus who was brother of the Emperor Vespasian. Her two sons were Junior, who were Vespasian Junior and Domitian intended to succeed to the throne, and to whom Quintilian was that Dion Cassius narrates appointed as tutor by the emperor. Domitian put to death several persons, and amongst them Flavius the consul, although he was Clemens his nephew, and although he also related to tlie had Flavia Domitilla for his wife, who was of both accused atheism, on which charge They were emperor. others also had been condemned, going after the manners many and customs of the Jews ; and of them were some put to death, and others had their goods confiscated ; but Domitilla was only banished to Pandataria. ^ This Flavia Domitilla is frequentlyconfused with her niece of the same whose banishment is tioned menname,^ by Eusebius, when he says : ' The teachingof our faith had by this time shone so far and wide, that even pagan historians did not refuse to insert in their narratives some of the persecuaccount tion and the martyrdoms that were suffered in it. Some, too, have marked the time accurately,mentioning, amongst many others, in the fifteenth year of Domitian (A.D. 97),Flavia Domitilla, the consuls daughter of a sister of a Flavius Clemens, one of the Roman of those days, who, for her testimony for Christ, was punished by exile to the Island of Pontia.' this younger It was Domitilla who was accompanied in her exile by her two christian servants, Nereus and Achilles,whose banishment is spoken of by S. Jerome 'a as afterwards whose cell was visited by S, lifelong martyrdom' Paula,^ and who, accordingto the Acts of SS. Nereus and Achilles, was to be burnt alive at Terracina, brought back to the mainland because she refused to sacrifice to idols. The relics of Domitilla, with those of her servants, were under preservedin the catacomb the villa which had belonged to her christian aunt. Receiving as evidence the story of S. Domitilla, this catacomb be looked upon as the oldest christian cemetery in existence. must Its galleries widened and strengthened by John I. (523-526). were A chamber the entrance near is pointed out as the burial-place of S. Petronilla.
to be remains
* '
"

is the farm

SS. Nereus and Achilles was in all probabilityin that chapel (lescend by so magnificent a staircase, is illuminated and which by is the central point of attraction in the cemetery so fine a lutttinare ; for that tliis is clear,both from the stiiircase and the luminare just mentioned, as also from the greater width of the adjacent galleries and other similar tokens. Here, then, S. Gregory the Great delivered his twenty-eighth homily (which Baronius ously erroneto have been delivered in the Church of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo,to supp"jse3 " which the bodies of tlie saints were not yet removed), in which lliese he says to which
we
"

'

The

sepulchre of

1
2
"

Now Alban

Santa Maria, an island near Butler, v. 205.

Ca6ta.

Ibid.

270

Walks

in Rome

saints,before whose tomb we are assembled, despisedthe world and trampled it under their feet,when peace, plenty, riches,and health gave it charms." ancient There is a higher and more piano in which coins and medals of the of great value have been recently discovered. first two centuries and inscriptions in one Some of these inscriptionsmay still be seen of the chambers the near bottom of the staircase ; they are both Latin and Greek ; sometimes both languages are mixed ; and in one or two instances Latin words are written in characters. of the deepest importance Greek are Many of these monuments from l)oth an antiquarian and a religious ing point of view ; in archaeology, as showthe subterranean the practice of private Christians in the first ages to make and for their own at their chambers own Aurelius expense use, e.g.""M. for himself and those of his family who Restutus made this subterranean believed and the limitation introduced in the Lord," where both the triplenames at the of his family were end (which shows that many still pagan) are unquestionably proofs of very high antiquity.' Northcotc's Roman Catacombs,' p. 103, "c.
' '^
"

remarkable the most paintings in this catacomb Among are, his surrounded birds and with beasts who lyre, by are Orpheus charmed with his music ; Elijah ascending to heaven in a chariot drawn of our Lord. by four horses ; and the portrait
bust of our Lord form a medallion, occupying the centre of the where cuhicuhim Orpheus is represented. This painting, in of the description given of it by Kugler (who misnamed the catacomb consequence S. Calixtus), is often eagerly sought after by strangers visiting the Catacombs. It is only just, however, to add, that they are generally disappointed. Kugler supposed it to be the oldest portraitof our Blessed Saviour in He existence,but we doubt if there is sufficient authority for such a statement. face is oval, with a describes it in these words : "The straightnose, arched eyebrows, and rather high forehead, the expression serious and mild ; the a smooth hair, parted on the forehead, fiows in long curls down the shoulders ; the beard is not thick,but short and divided : the age between thirtyand forty." But this and precise,too artistic, for the original, as it is now descriptionis too minute A livelyimagination may, to be seen. perhaps, supply the details described by fiiem.'"Roma Sotterranea, fails to distinguish our author, but the eye certainly 'The head roof in the and
same

p. 253.

discovered here in 1881 bears the name cubiculum of the friend sometimes be mentioned to by supposed Ampliatus, 'Salute Ampliatus, my xvi. 8 beloved in the S. Paul in Rom.
A rich
"

Lord.'
a

Approached by a separate entrance chamber, which De Rossi sepulchral

'

on

the slopeof the hillside is considered to have been the

Burial-place of S. Domitilla.
christian monuments It is certainlyone of the most ancient and remarkable close to the highway ; its front of fine brickwork, Its position, yet discovered. with the usual space for an inscription with a cornice of terra-cotta, (which has of its four five the with its or alas ! spaciousness gallery, separate perished) ; now, nently niches prepared for as many sarcophagi ; the fine stucco on the wall ; the emiit perfectly classical character of its decorations ; all these things make of a christian family of distinction, excavated at clear that it was the monument In passing from great cost,and without the slightestattempt at concealment. the vestibule into the catacomb, we recognise the transition from the use of the loculus ; for the first two or three graves on sarcophagus to that of the common shelves in the wall, are either side,though really mere so disguisedby painting of a the outside as to present to passers-by the complete oxitward appearance on with the names of the dead, sarcophagus. Some few of these graves are marked and the inscriptions the other graves are in black on the largesttiles, on written of the vaulted roof is oldest form. all of the simplest and Lastly, the whole of the vine (with covered with the most exquisitelygracefuldesigns,of branches with all the freedom of nature over birds and winged genii among them) trailing

Temple

of Bacchus

271

the whole walls, not fearing any interruption by graves, nor confined by any of characterise similar productions in which those lines of geometrical symmetry be seen here and there, which also of landscapes may Traces the next century. be seen in the chambers in the Catacombs, though they may occurrence are of rare The Good Achilles. and an Nereus SS. Shepherd, De Rossi to agape, assigned by the chief Daniel in the lions' den, are and fishing, the heavenly feast, a man or representationsof christian mysteries which are painted historical or allegorical here. Unfortunately they have been almost destroyed by persons attempting to detach them from the wall.'" iJoma Sotterranea, p. 70.

discovered here, once In 1S71 a basilica was and of columns, on a and aisles by two rows of a martyr the execution relief representing to a stake (shaped like a cross, and surmounted of the being stabbed by a soldier. The name
"

divided marble
a

into
man

nave a

fragment
bound

young
a

by

martyr crown) is martyr, Acilleus,

engraved above.
leads to the Via Appia Nuova, passing left now mile of hence, a turn on the left to the ruin about a quarter a of Bacchus, from an altar dedicated known as the Temple generally quaries antibut considered found which Bacchus there, by modern was to This and Proserpine. buildinghas as a temple of Ceres been comparativelysaved from the destruction which has befallen S. Urbano its neighbours, by having been consecrated as a church 820 by Pope Paschal in a.d. I., in honour of his alia Caffarella
A

road

to the

"

"

Urban a.d. 226 (whose pontificate was I., chiefly predecessor Catacomb of S. cause beCalixtus), passed in refuge in the neighbouring sainted
to resort hither. wont is shown below the church as that in A chapel great depth A curious fresco which S. Urban baptized and celebrated mass. and S. John. S. Urban here representsthe Virgin between Around the upper part of the interior are a much injured series de Rapiza to whom Beno the pictures of frescoes, given by the same due of S. Clemente church are in the lower comprisingthe life of to the descent into Hades, and the Christ from the Annunciation Valerian, ending in the burial of life of S. Cecilia and her husband in the Catacomb of Calixtus, and the story Cecilia by Pope Urban I. In the pictureof the Crucifixion, the of the martyred Urban their thieves have Calpurnius and Longinus.' The frescoes names, altered in the seventeenth century to suit the views of the were Sets Roman Church, keys being placed in the hand of Peter, "c. and the alterations, are of drawings, taken before after preserved in the Barberini Library,and curiouslyshow the difference. into the valley. Here, beside A winding path leads from S. Urbano is a ruined Nymphaeum the Almo rivulet, containinga mutilated called which 'the Grotto of Egeria,'till was of statue a river-god, of when the the true site of the Porta few years ago, discovery a within the the walls. that of The fine grove fixed grotto Capena the hillside the at time trees old ilex was on same of pointedout as

of

belief that he
at a

was

"

'

the sacred grove

1

of

Egeria.^
a

It is

on

the site of

very

ancient grove dedicated to the memory

of Annia

Regilla.

272
'

Walks

in Rome

heart Egeria ! sweet creation of some AViiichfound no mortal resting-place so fair

As Or

thine ideal breast ; whate'er thou art of the air ; wert," a young Aurora fond despair ; The nympholepsy of some Or, it might be, a beauty of the earth, Who than common found a more votary there Too much adoring ; whatsoe'er thy birth. Thou wert a beautiful thought, and softlybodied
The mosses With thine

forth.

of thy fountain stillare spiinkled Elysian water-drops ; the face Of thy cave-guarded spring, with years uuwriiikled, Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place, Whose no more erase green, wild margin now Art's works ; nor must the delicate waters sleep. Prisoned in marble, bubbling from the base Of the cleft statue,with a gentle leap The rill runs and round fern,flowers,and ivy creep o'er,

Fantasticallytangled ; the green hills Are clothed with early blossoms, through the grass The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the bills Of summer-birds as ye pass ; sing welcome in their class. Flowers fresh in hue, and many Implore the pausing step, and with their dyes in the soft Ijreeze in a fairymass Dance ; of the violet's deep blue eyes, The sweetness Kiss'd by the breath of heaven, seems coloured by its skies.' Byron, Childe Harold.'
'

It is now and the valley known in which that this Nymphaeum of Herodes it stands belonged to the suburban villa called Triopio, down to us through two Atticus,whose romantic story is handed Greek inscriptions in the possessionof the Borghese family, and is further illustrated by the writings of Philostratus and Pausanias.
and lost all his wealthy Greek named Ipparchus offended his Government redeemed by confiscation,but the family fortunes were through the discovery by his son Atticus of a vast treasure,concealed in a small piece of to them, close to the rock of the Acropolis. Dreading ground which remained of his fellow-citizens, sent at once to Nerva, the then the avarice Atticus telling him of the discovery, and requesting his ordei'S as to what emperor, welcome to do with ^^erva to keep he was the treasure, replied that he was it and use it as he pleased. Kot yet satisfied or feeling sufticiently of the sure Atticus again applied to him, saying that the protection of the emperor, of a person in a private station of life, treasure far too vast for the use was and asking how he was to use it. The emperor again replied that the treasiu-e his own and due to his own was good fortune, and that what he could not use he might abuse.' Atticus then entered securely into the possession of his ficently wealth, which he bequeathed to his son Herodes, who used his fortune magniof literature and art in his l)ountiful charities, in the encouragement throughout both Greece and Italy,and (best appreciated of all by the Greeks) in the splendour of the public games which he gave. to Rome, Atticus removed Early in the reign of Antoninus Pius, Herodes of where he was rhetoric to Marcus Aurelius and Lucius appointed professor ship he attained the consuland where Verus, the two adopted sons of the emperor, in A.D. 143. Soon after his arrival he fell in love with Annia Regilla,a beautiful and wealthy heiress,and, in spite of the violent opposition of her brother Annius Attilius Braduas, who, belonging to the Julian family, and the Venus and Anchises, looked claiming an imaginary descent from upon of the Part in obtaining her hand. marriage as a mesalliance, he succeeded wealth which Annia the Valle C'atfai-elle was Regilla brought to her husband and its nymphaeum. wealth
'

Tomb

of Herodes

and

Regilla

273

For some Herodes Atticus and Annia Regilla enjoyed the perfection years of married happiness in this 1)oautiful valley; but shortly before the expected almost birth of her tlftb child, she died very suddenly, leaving her husband frantic with grief and He was roused, however, refusing every consolation. from his first anguish by his brother-in-law, Annius Braduas, who had never laid aside his resentment at the marriage, and who accused him of having now Herodes demanded was a acciuitted. poist)ned his wife. public trial,and I'hilostratus records that the intense grief he showed, and the depth of the to clear Further taken as signs of his innocence. were mourning he wore himself from imputation, Herodes offered all the jewels of Annia Regilla upon the altar of the Eleusinian deities, time calling Ceres and Proserpine,at the same down the vengeance of the outraged gods if he were guiltyof sacrilege. The beloved Regilla was field ' buried in a tomb surrounded by ' a sepulchral within the precincts of the villa dedicated and Nemesis, and (as to Minerva of the Greek act of the highest recorded in one it was made an inscriptions) for any but her own descendants to be laid within those sacred limits. sacrilege A statue was also erected to Regilla in the Triopian temple of Ceres and Proserpine, which is now with that usually called the supposed to be the same Not only did Herodes Temple of Bacchus. hang his house with black in his

afHiction,but all gaily coloured marbles were strippedfrom the walls, and replaced with the dark grey marble known as bardiglio; and his depth of made him so conspicuous, that a satirical person woe seeing his cook prepare white beans for dinner, wondered that he could dare to do so in a house so entirelyblack, i
'
'

which this story is related (one of them containing Greek verses) are engraved on slabs of Pentelic thirty-nine marble, and Philostratus and Pausanias narrate that the quarries of this marble the property of Herodes, and that in his were he almost exhausted them. magnificentbuilding from The field-path hence leads back to the Church of Domine finished Tomb Quo Vadis, passing on the rightthe beautifully of Herodes and Regilla,commonly known Divus the of as Temple Rediculus, and formerly described as having been built to commemorate the retreat of Hannibal, who thus far in his came intended attack upon Rome. The temple erected in memory of this event was really on the right of the Via Appia : it was dedicated to Rediculus, the god of Return. The folly of ciceroni ' often cites this name Ridiculous.' as
Tlie neighbourhood of the Divus Rediculus (which he, however, places on ilie rviht of the Via Appia) is described by Pliny in connection with a curious There was story of imperial times. who had his still in the Roman a cobbler Forum, and who possessed a tame raven, which was a great favourite with the young he would bid good day as he sate perched upon Romans, to whom tlie rostra. At length he became quite a public character,and the indignation \";is so in a fit of rage at his great when his master killed him with his hammer new spoilingsome leather,that they slew the cobbler, and decreed a public funeral to the bird ; who carried to the grave bier adorned was a with on honorary crowns, preceded by a piper,and supported by two negroes in honour of his colour," and buried" 'ad rogum dextri Viae qui constructus usque, Ai)piaead secundum lapideni in canipo Rediculo appellate t\x\t:" Pliny, Nat. ^' Hist.,lib. X. c. 60.

The

in inscriptions

Returning

to the Via

Appia, we

reach, on

of S. Sebastiano, rebuilt in 1611

1

by Flaminio

the right, the Basilica Ponzio for Cardinal

spere

For these and many other particulars, lecture by Mr. Shakesee an interesting Wood The Fountain on of Egeria,given before the Roman Archaeological
I.
a

Society.
VOL.

274

Walks
the

in Rome

which had been founded house and garden of the matron she had buried the body of Sebastian, Lucina, in which after his (second)martyrdom under Diocletian. The basilica contains but the ancient six columns in the portico. nothing granite The altar covers the relics of the saint (a Gaul, a native of Narand the chapel of bonne, a christian soldier under Diocletian), S. Sebastian has a statue of him in his youth, designed by Bernini and executed by Antonio Giorgetti.

ScipioBorghese, on

by Constantine, where

once

site of a church existed the

colossal form lies dead, the head almost and resting on his helmet from nature, and is perhaps the finest thing It is evidently modelled It is probably from the association of arrows ever designed by Bernini. with his form and story that S. Sebastian has been regarded fi'om the first ages of Christianity as the protecting saint against plague and pestilence; Apollo was the deity who inflicted plague, and therefore invoked with prayer and was sacrifice against it ; and to the laonours of Apollo, in this particular character, S. Sebastian has succeeded.'" J aineson's 'Sacred Art,'p. 414. 'The
armour.
...

The be

of the footprint in original preservedhere.

"

the Domino

Quo Vadis
into the

is said to

On the left of the entrance with the inscription :

'In hoc sanctorum sacrosancto

is the

descent

catacombs,

loco

qui dicitur

ad

Catacumbas,

ubi

sepulta fuerunt

174,000,ac 46 summorum pontificum pariterque corpora In altare in quo divi Sebastiani Christi athletae jacet celemartyrum. corpus Pontifex S. Gregorius Magnus vidit angelum Dei candidiorem brans summus sacriflcio ministrantem est locus sacraac dicentem, "Hie nive, sibi in tremendo tissimus in quo est divina promissio et omnium peccatorum remissio,splendor et lux perpetua, sine fine laetitia, Christi martyr Sebastianus habere quam proProut meruit" Severanus Tom. P". pagina 450, ac etiam antiquissimae lapideae testantur tabulae. ' Ideo in hoc insigni privilegiatoaltare,tarn missae cantatae quam privatae, sunt in purgatorio pro quibus sacrificium offertur dum animae celebrantur, quae suorum conseplenariam indulgentiam et omnium peccatorum remissionem confirmarunt. et summi quuntur, prout ab angelo dictum fuit, pontiflces
'

martyrum

visited which have been most frequently to because they could always be seen on application by strangers, of greatly attached to the church, though they are the monks inferior interest to those of S. Calixtus. These
are

the catacombs

' that is interesting in bring to light much Though future excavations may combs, accessible is,as a specimen of the catathis cemetery, the small portion now tions utterly without value. Its only interest consists in its religiousassociaS. in here Charles wont to S. here was kneel,rapt contemplation : ; Bridget Borromeo spent whole nights in prayer ; and here the heart of S. Phihp Neri wa3 his very bodilyframe to be changed.'" inflamed with divine love as to cause so Catacombs.' Northcote's 'Roman

'

thee the glowing ray down Of heaven thy prayer, came upon To melt thy heart, and burn away there. All that of earthly dross was

Philip,on

we And so, on Philip when gaze. We the image of his Lord ; see The saint dissolves amid the blaze Which circles round the Living Word.

276

Walks

in Rome
of many of

the faithful to venerate here the tombs of S. Cecilia and the martyred The yopes who are buried elsewhere. is known buried to have been here from Cyrinus very but his grave has not been discovered.

martyr S. raries, early itine-

' When I was at Rome, I used every Sunday, in company a boy, being educated with other boys of my own to visit the tombs of the apostles and age and tastes, martyrs, and to go into the crypts excavated there in the bowels of the earth. The walls on either side as you enter are full of the bodies of the dead, and the whole almost the fulfilment of those to see seems place is so dark that one words of the prophet, "Let them Here alive into Hades." and there a go down little light, admitted from above, suffices to give a momentary relief to the horror of the darkness ; but as you in go forwards,and find yourself again immersed the utter blackness of night, the words of the poet come spontaneously to your 5".Jerome mind, "The very silence fills the soul with dread."'" (A.l". 354),In Ezek.,ch. Ix.

with a wild bright eye, was our friar, gaunt Franciscan only guide down and openings hither profound and dreadful place. The narrow ways blotted and thither,coupled with the dead and heavy air,soon out, in all of us, I could recollection of the track by which had come not help we any ; and thinking, Good Heaven, if in a sudden fit of madness he should dash the torches what become On we would of us ! out, or if he should be seized with a fit, vaulted wandered, among martyrs' graves ; passing great subterranean roads, and choked diverging in all directions, up with heaps of stones,that thieves and not take refuge there, and form murderers a population under Rome, even may lives between than that which it and the sun. worse Graves, graves, graves ; of men, of women, of little children,who ran crying to the persecutors, graves We Christians ! we Christians ! that they might be murdered with are are their parents ; graves with the palm of martyrdom roughly cut into their stone boundaries, and little niches made to hold a vessel of the martyr's blood ; graves who lived down of some here for years together,ministering to the rest,and from the rude altars, that bear witness to preaching truth and hope and comfort far their fortitude at this hour ; more but where more terrible, roomy graves, in and walled up" buried before death, hemmed were hundreds, being surprised, and killed by slow starvation. The triumphs of the Faith are not above ground in our splendid churches," said the friar, looking round upon stopped to rest in one of the low us, as we They are here I passages, with bones and dust surrounding us on every side. He and earnest the !" said it from a was martyrs' graves man, gentle, among I thought how have his heart ; but when christian men dealt with one another ; how, perverting our most merciful religion, they have hunted down and tortured, and burnt beheaded, strangled, slaughtered, and oppressed each other : I picturedto myself an agony surpassing any that this dust had suffered with the breath of life yet lingeringin it, and how these great and constant hearts would ledge have been shaken" how they would have quailed and drooped" if a foreknowof the deeds that professing Christians would commit, in the great name xinutterable anguish, on for which they died, could have rent them with its own the cruel wheel, and bitter cross, and in the fearful fae.'" Dickens.
into this
"
"

'

"

"

' "

"

Countless martyrs, they say, rest in these ancient sepulchres. In these dark took refuge from depths the ancient Church persecution ; there she laid her martyrs, and there, over their tombs, she chaunted hynms of triumph, and held I spend hours. I for whom with Him communion In that church they died. the graves have no wish to descend into those sacred sepulchres,and pry among the resurrection trump will open soon enough. I like to think of tlie holy dead, and lying undisturbed quiet there ; of their spiritsin Paradise ; of their faith them. triumphant in the city that massacred 'No doubt and wondered they also had their perplexities, why the wicked triumph, and sighed to God, "How long, O Lord, how longV '"Schdnber(/-Cotta Family.
' ' when under the altar the souls of And he had opened the fifth seal,I saw slain for the word them that were of God, and for the testimony which they held : and they cried with a loud voice, saying. How long, 0 Lord, holy and

Circns
true, dost
earth ?

of Maxentius

277

not Thou judge and avenge our blood on them that dwell on the said wliite robes were given unto every one of them : and it was unto them, that they slioidd rest yet for a little season, ^itiltheir fellowbe killed as they were, should be servants also and their brethren, that should tnimied: -Jiev. vi. 9-11. And

Vigna Randanini, almost oppositeS. Sebastiano, is the exceedinglycurious Jewish Catacomb, which can only be visited sole expense it from the proprietor, at whose by especialpermission
In tlie is the great A characteristic of this catacomb has been excavated. At one breadth of its passages. point is a well. One chapel is of peacocks and other birds. adorned with well-executed paintings show that found this cemetery was The inscriptions exclusively rulers of the refer officers to Jewish. (dpxovTes) They synagogue, in The "c. scribes {ypa/ufiaTe^s), are and great part inscriptions slabs in Greek letters,expressingLatin words : the monumental candlestick. An seven-branched adorned with the are frequently the in the vineyard is filledwith relics found in Museum interesting

Catacombs, the

most

in 200 which was the ruins of the Circus of S. Sebastiano In the valleybeneath are The circus was of villa of that those a Maxentius, near emperor. 1482 feet long,244 feet broad, and was capableof containing 15,000 miniature it is a compared with the Circus Maximus, spectators,yet all as though very interesting retainingin tolerable preservation the different parts which composed a circus. In the centre of its The circular ruin in the Piazza Navona. spina was the obelisk now Romulus. to his son it was a Temple, dedicated near by Maxentius
des dieux, dans cet olympe au rang jeune Romulus, utant mort, fut plac"5 la partie inferieure se voit dont eleva s'^croulait. Son lui un temple qui pfere fut peut-etreune dependance de ce temple funebre, encore, et le ciniue lui-mOme rendait aux des honneurs de chars etaient un les courses I'antiquite car que tomheaxix.'" les cela et sur souvent Ampere, sont representees morts, pour Emp. 11.360.
'

importantbeing a grand pieceswhen discovered.

marble

sarcophagus,

Le

backed ruins are These by the peaks of the very picturesque, covered with snow. in which winter are Sabine range, generally of Cecilia Metella, The opposite hill is crowned by the Tomb wife of Crassus. It is and Metellus of Creticus, Quintus daughter the bulls' heads diameter. The feet in on a round tower, seventy The marble coating of Capo di Bove. frieze gave it the popularname the make Urban VIII. to carried off was of the basement by added when the tomb was The battlements were fountain of Trevi. turned into a fortress by the Caetani in the thirteenth century.
the roadside, from the citygates, and right upon miles or more It is built of round pile,sepulchral in its original purpose. of foundation a rough, agglomerated of hewn blocks on vast, stone, scjuare great tombs. of all the other ruinous the mass But, material, such as composes whatever might be the cause, it is in a far l)etter state of preservation than out of a mediaeval rise the battlements fortress, they. On its broad summit the supplemental of which of the midst long since had time begun to crumble (s"" of way-side dust) grow it with soil,by means trees, bushes, structure, and cover has become the dungeonof a woman of ivy. This tomb and thick festoons
'

Al"out two
immense

is

an

278
keep
to

Walks

in Rome

of a castle ; and all the care that Cecilia Metella's husband could bestow, for her beloved endless peace that relics,only sufficed to make handful of precious ashes the nucleus of battles long ages after her death.'"
secure

Hawthorne.
of other days, stern round tower with its fence of stone, fortress, Such as an army's baffled strength delays, Standing with half its battlements alone, And with two thousand years of ivy grown. The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves over all by time o'erthrown ;" What this tower of strength ? within its cave was treasure What lay so lock'd,so hid?" A woman's grave.
'

ITiere is
as

Firm

But who was she, the lady of the dead, Tomb'd in a palace? Was she chaste and fair? bed ? a Roman's "Worthy a king's" or more" of chiefs and heroes did she bear? What race What daughter of her beauties was the heir ? lived" how she not How died she ? Was loved" how So honoured and conspicuously there, not dare to rot. "SMiere meaner relics must Placed to commemorate than mortal lot? a more
"

Perchance she died in youth : it may be, bow'd With woes far heavier than the ponderous tomb That weigh'd upon her gentle dust, a cloud Might gather o'er her beauty, and a gloom In her dark eye, prophetic of the doom Heaven early death ; yet shed gives its favourites" A sunset charm around her, and illume With hectic light,the Hesperus of the dead. Of her consuming cheek the autumnal leaf-like red. Perchance
Chai On

she died in age"

surviving all,
with

might yet recall, It may still a something of the day l"e, \Mien they were braided, and her proud array And lovely form were envied, praised, and eyed Rome" whither but would Conjecture stray? By Thus much Metella died. alone we know" The wealthiest Roman's wife : behold his love or pride !

ms, kindred, children" her long tresses, which

the silver grey

'

Childe Harold.

Opposite
Caetani.
'

the

tomb

are

the

ruins

of

gothic church

of

the

mains Le tombeau de Cecilia-Metella 6tait devenu chateau fort alors aux un dont on des Caetani,et autour du chateau s'etait forme un villageavec son eglise, retrouve les Testes.'"Ampere,' Voyage Dantesqiie.' a recemment

Tomb of Cecilia Metella is situated on the very edge of the flowed as far great lava stream which, issuingfrom the Alban Hills, It is at the this Rome. towards afterwards the site as occupied by tomb that the beauties of the Via Appia reallybegin. A very short distance farther,we emerge from the walls which have hitherto shut the in the road on either side,and views over enjoy uninterrupted and the Latin plain, strew^n with its ruined castles and villages, The

long lines of aqueducts, to the Sabine

'

and

Alban

mountains.

Appia longarum

teritur regina viarum.'

Sylv,ii.2, 12. Statins,

The
Under the Roman beauties.
'

Via

Appia

279
of its

the

empire the Appian Way was the fashionable drive but now few, except foreigners, nobility,^ enjoy

The Via Appia is a magnificent promenade, amongst ruinous tombs, the remains of which massive miles over the Roman extend for many Campagna. The powerful families of ancient Home loved to build monuments to their dead their affection for by the side of the public road, probably to exhibit at once of these monuments and Most their relations and their own affluence. ix)wcr now are nothing but heaps of ruins, upon which are placed the statues and have been found in the earth or amongst the rubbish. Those sculptures which which have been found on the Via Appia bear witness to the griefof inscriptions On a great number the livingfor the dead, but never to the hope of reunion. of sarcophagi or the friezes of tombs may be seen the dead sittingor lying as if they alive ; some of to be praying. Many heads have great individuality were seem character. Sometimes marble figure, a white beautifullydraped, projects from these heaps of ruins,but without head or hands ; sometimes is stretched a hand It is a street through monuments out, or a portion of a figurerises from the tomb. of the dead, across immense an churchyard ; for the desolate Roman Campagna may be regarded as such. To the left it is scattered with the ruins of colossal aqueducts, which, during the time of the emperors, conveyed lakes and rivers to Rome, and which ruinous and destroyed, delight the eye by the still, beautiful pmpf)rtions of their arcades. To the rightis an immense without prairie, from it. ITie any other limit than that of the ocean, which, however, is not seen country is desolate,and only here and there are there any huts or trees to be seen.'" Frederika Bremer. For the space of a mile or two beyond the gate of S. Sebastiano, this ancient famous road is as desolate and disagreeable as most of the other Roman It extends over small,uncomfortable avenues. paving-stones,between brick and and so high as almost to exclude plastered walls,which are very solidlyconstructed, of the surrounding country. The houses are of the most uninviting a view homelike and social ; they have seldom or never nor aspect,neither picturestiue, the wayside, but are accessible only from the rear, and frown a dtK)r opening on Here and there inhospitably upon the traveller through iron-grated windows. bush beside the a dreary inn or a wine-shop, designated by the withered appears where entrance, within which you discover a stone-built and sepulchral interior, bread and goat's-milkcheese, waslied down with sour guests refresh themselves with wine of dolorous acerl)ity. ' At fre(iuent intervals along the roadside,up rises the ruin of an ancient tomb. mounds As they stand these structures of are immensely high and broken now, and earth, all molten conglomerated brick,stone, pel)bles, by time into a mass as solid and indestructible as if each tomb were composed of a single boulder of first erected,they were cased externally, no granite. When doubt, with slabs of and all such suitable adornments, polished marl)le, artfullywrought bas-reliefs, and were rendered majesticallybeautiful by grand architectural designs. This antique splendour has long since been stolen from the dead to decorate the palaces of the living. Nothing remains and churches to the dishonoured sepulchres
'

and

except their massiveness.

alien from the pyramids form hardly a stranger spectacle,or a more sympathies, than the tombs of the Appian Way, with their giganticheight, breadth, ami solidity, defying time and the elements, and far too mighty tt" be demolished Ityan ordinary earthtjuake. Here you may see a moilern dwelling, and a garden with its vines and tilive-trees, percheilon the loftydilapidationof forms a precipiceof fifty feet in depth on each of the four sides. a tomb, which There is a ho"ise on that funeral mound, where generations of children have been l)om, and successive lives have been spent, undisturbed by the ghost of the whose ashes were stern Roman Other sepulchres so preposterously burdened. ""fgrass, shrubbery, and forest-trees, a crown which throw out a broad sweep wear of branches, having had time, twice over, t() be a thousand On one years of age. of them stands a tower, wliicli, modern than the tomb, though immemorially more
'

Even

human

Horace, Epod.

iv. 14 ;

Eput. 1,

280
was

Walks

in Rome

itselfbuilt by immemorial hands, and is now rifted quite from top to bottom vast fissure of decay ; the tomb-hillock, its foundation, being still as firm as until the last trump shall rend it wide asunder, and ever, and likelyto endure forth its unknown dead. summon ' dead I For, except in one or two doubtful Yes, its unknown instances,these mountainous sepulchral edifices have not availed to keep so much as the bare of an individual or a family from oblivion. name of everlasting reAmbitious membrance the slumberers as they were, might just as well have gone quietly to rest,each in his pigeon-hole of a columbarium, or under his little green hillock in a graveyard, without to mark a headstone the spot. It is rather satisfactory than to think that all these idle pains have otherwise out so utterly turned abortive.'" //a"'(/ionie.

by

The brothers Lugari are carrying excavations at their farm of the Tor Caron bone, at the fourth milestone on the Appian Way, with a view of laying open The work permanently a district of the ancient Campagna. already accomplished to the visitor the true idea of the perfection to which is enough to convey the suburban districts were brought under the empire. The ground is crossed at right angles by roads, as frequent as they would be in the city itself ; and these roads are so neatly levelled and paved, and their side-walks so cleverlyarranged, that one would Some cross-lanes scarcely believe them to be country roads. on closed accordingly with gates at each end. were private property, and were You still see the very walls, or materiae, as they were styled in ancient times, enclosing the fields ; and in these fields remains of rustic dwellings, of a modest but wonderfully well adapted to their purpose. what They show appearance, Roman of their peasants. The landlords took of the hygiene and welfare care rooms are provided with double pavements, for the circulation of gi'ound-floor in the interstices" a precaution most in low, the hot air, commendable or vapour, Great care was bestowed the drainage of the house, which on was damp lands. always carried to a great distance,and forced through its channel by a permanent jet of water ; which, when not actuallyneeded for drinking,bathing, or irrigating stored in huge reservoirs and cisterns, ready for any extraordinary purposes, was At the crossing of the roads, or quadrivia, there were fountains for emergency. of travellers and their horses ; in fact, the gentleness and kindthe accommodation ness of those happy generations went far as to provide the weary so pilgrim with seats,shaded by trees,where he could rest during the hottest hours of the day.'
"

'

Lanciani,
Near

'

Ancient

Rome.'

Servilius Quartus of Marcus milestone is the Tomb A bas-relief of in 1808. restored by Canova (with an inscription), the death of Atys, killed by Adrastus, a short distance beyond this, of Seneca, who was has been suggested as part of the Tomb put to An inscribed order of Nero. death the fourth milestone near by the fourth
'
'

tomb

this is that of Sextus Pompeius Justus. small remains, the left,are some Near on this,in the campagna be of Juno. to those of a temple supposed but none of any be identified, of tombs can Beyond this a number erected Plinius of the Such tombs Eutychius, by are importance. Plinius Zosimus, a f reedman of Plinythe younger ; of Caius Licinius ; inscribed Claudius Philippianus, the doric tomb of the tax-gatherer, ' Flavia Irene Coactori Tito Claudio Secundo Philippiano Vxor Indulgentissimo ; of Eabinius, with three busts in relief ; of C. Cerof Isis ; of Marcus of Hermodorus Elsia Prima, priestess ;

beyond

'

the bas-relief of an elephant bearing a burning altar. marble casinghas been plundered from all the tombs, and little ' wrote all the houses in the city,' remains Almost but brickwork. out of the Raffaelle to Leo X., have been built with lime made of Rome.' marbles that the were precious glory

donus, with
The

'

The
' " "

Via

Appia

281

Brickwork Marble I

thee,and marble thought thee,and brickwork

I found

I left thee," their emperor vaunted ; I find thee !" the tourist may answer."

Clmtgh.
Most of the tombs, both here and on the other roads round Rome, have an of inscription titulus sepulcralis statingthe amount the frontageand depth behind belonging to the family who owned
" "

monument.
'

Horace

gives the usual

measurement"

Mille pedes in fronto,trecentos Hie dabat ; heredes monumentum

cippus in agrum
ne

sequeretur.'
Sat. i. viii. 12.

Beyond the fifth milestone,two circular mounds with of peperino considered by Canina to be the tombs of were

basements the Horatii

and Curiatii. On the oppositeside of the road is the exceedingly picturesque mediaeval fortress known which Torre Mezza into as are Strada, the remains of the Church of S. Maria Nuova, or della incorporated Gloria. Behind this extend a vast assemblage of ruins which form a splendid foreground to the distant mountain view, and whose size has led to their receiving the popular epithetof Roma Vecchia. Here was the favourite villa of the Emperor Commodus, where he was residingwhen the people,excited by a sudden impulse during the games of the Circus, and poured out of Rome rose againsthim of Paris to Versailles and refused to depart, as the inhabitants till, terrified into action by the entreaties of his concubine Marcia, he tossed the head of the unpopular Cleander of the to them out window, and had the brains of that minister's child dashed out againstthe stones. The residence of the emperors at some lar particuvilla always drew a number of patrician families to build in the of Roman neighbourhood. ' Ubi Caesar, ibi Roma,' was a maxim villa This of is proved,by the discovery of a number jurisprudence. the winter villa * pipes bearingtheir names, to have been originally of the brothers Condianus and Maximus, of the great family of the which was confiscated by Commodus, and which occupied Quintilii, mile. a nearly square
" "

' et et romanesque. L'histoire des deux frcres est interessante Condianus la Maximus utaient distingues par la science,les talents militaires, (juintilius et surtout tendresse mutuelle richesse, qui ne s'6tait jamais dementie. par une Servant toujoursenseinble.l'un se faisait le lieutenant de I'autre, Bien qu'etrangers i ttiute conspiration,leur vertu les fit soui)9onner d'etre pen mode favorables h. Comils avaient et moururent v6cu. L'un ensemble comme ; ils furent proscrita et de son d'eux avait un tils nomm6 Au moment Sextus. de la mort de son piire sort I'attendait, il bien que le meme oncle, ce fllsse trouvait en Syrie. Pensant sa vie. Sextus, apri:savoir bu du sang de liivre, feignitde mourir pour sauver ii cheval, se laissa tomlier, vomit le sang (lu'il monta avait pris et qui parut etre On bc-lier qui passa pour son mit dans sa bi^re le corps dun son propre sang. cadavre, et il disparut. Depuis ce temps, il erra sous divers deguisements ; mais sut qu'il avait echappo, et on recherche. mit t^i sa on se Beaucoup furent tues de lui avoir 6taient (ju'ils parce qu'ilslui ressemblaient, ou parce soup^onnos donne asile. II n'est pas bien silr qu'il ait iitc atteint,que sa tote se trouvut

1 Tlieir villa web seven magniflcent summer almost on the site of the Villa Mondragone.

miles

of Tusculum, on the slopes off,

282

Walks

in Rome

et qu'on dit fetre la sienne. Ce qui est certain, parmi celles qu'on apporta h Rome c'est qii'aprfes la mort de Commode, un aventurier,tente par la belle villa et par les grandes richesses des Quintilii, se donna son heritage. pour Sextus et reclama II parait ne pas avoir manque d'adresse et avoir connu celui pour lequel il voulait qu'on le prit,car par ses responsesil se tira tr^s bien de toutes les enquetes. Peut-etre ensuite. s'6tait-il lie avec Sextus et I'avait-il assassine Cependant de Commode, I'empereur Pertinax, successeur I'ayant fait venir, eut I'id^e de lui parler grec. Le vrai Sextus connaissait parfaitement cette langue. Le faux Sextus, qui ne savait pas le grec, repondit tout de travers,et sa fraude fut ainsi

d^couverte.'

"

Ampere, Emp.

ii.253.

identical in its limits, Vecchia is, held here. It was that a great sensation was S, Maria created in Nuova near 1485 the of of beautiful a April by discovery the perfect body young with an inscription that it was that of Julia Prisca, woman, stating did no wrong who except to die.' On the left of the Via Appia appears a on huge monument
'

The great Torlonia farm of Roma with the property which Commodus

of the Metelli. a narrow base, called the Tomb Beyond this,after the fifth milestone, are of Sergius Demetrius, a wine the tombs merchant of Arrius Lucius of Septimia Gallia ; and of one of ; ; the Caecilii, in whose buried was sepulchre, accordingto Eutropius, Pomponius Atticus, the friend of Cicero,whose daughterPomponia the firstwife of Agrippa, and whose was granddaughter Vipsania Agrippina was the firstwife of Tiberius.
Par places, I'ancien pav(5 reparait,de grandes pierres plates, des morceaux de lave,dejetes par le temps, rudes aux voitures le mieux suspendues. A droit et a gauche filent deux bandes les ruines des tombeaux, d'herbe, ou s'alignent d'une herbe abandonn6e de gros de cimetiere,brulee par les soleils d'ete, semee chardons violatres et de hauts fenouils jaunes. Un petitmur a hauteur d'appui, bati en pierres seches, clot de chaque cote ces marges roussatres,pleines dun de romaine a crepitement de sauterelles^; au et, vue, la Campagne dela, perte et nue. A peine, pres des bords, de loin en loin, apergoit-on s'etend,immense des flguiers, blancs de poussiere. un pin parasol, un eucalyptus, des oliviers, Sur la gauche, les restes de I'Acqua Claudia detachent dans les pres leurs arcades couleur de rouille, de des cultures maigres s'etendent au loin,les vignes avec de la Sabine et jusqu'aux monts petitesfermes, jusqu'aux monts Albains, d'un bleu di Papa, d'Albano, violatre,ou les taches claires de Frascati, de Uocca grandissent et blanchissent,a mesure qu'on approche ; tandis que, sur la droite, du cote de la mer, la plaine s'elargit et se prolonge, par vastes ondulations, sans une maison, sans un arbre, d'une grandeur simple extraordinaire,une ligne unique, toute plate,un horizon d'un ocean qu'une lignedroite,d'un bout a I'autre, du ciel. Au gros d'ete, tout brule, la prairie illimitee tlambe, d'un ton separe fauve de brasier. a verdir, Des septembre, cet ocean se perde dans du commence et dans du mauve, des beaux couchers eclabousse d'or, rose jusqu'au bleu eclatant, de soleil.'" Zola.
'

sometimes Close to the sixth milestone is the mass of masonry called 'Casale Rotondo,' or 'Cotta's Tomb,' from that name being attributed to Messala found there inscribed on a stone, but generally Corvinus, the poet, and friend of Horace, and believed to have been in raised to him by his son Valerias Maximus Cotta, mentioned

Ovid.
'

in turba Te tamen Pieridum lumen,

non

ausim, Cotta, silere,

41. iv. 1(3,
was

praesidiumque fori.' Epist.ex Ponto,

This tomb turned into

was a

even

larger than that of Cecilia Metella,and

fortress

by

the Orsini in the fifteenth century.

284
tinct and think may

Walks
undoubted,

in Rome

and this figure is the Apostle PauT we He, whatever in connection with concerning any other apostle or apostolic man in the New of a doubt, appears Testament Rome, he, beyond a shadow as her teacher. No criticism or scepticism of modern times has ever questioned gi-eat of that last chapter of the Acts, which the perfect authenticity gives the account of his journey,stage by stage, till he set foot within the walls of the city.However be compelled to distrust any particulartraditions concerning much we may that his speciallocalities of his life and death, we cannot doubt for a moment the same general view of sky and plain and mountain eye rested on ; that his feet trod the pavement of the same Appian road ;.thathis way lay through'the of ancient tombs which look and wonder same on we now long avenue ; that ho entered (and there we have our last authentic glimpse of his progress)through the arch of Drusus, and then is lost to our view in the great Babylon of Rome.'" A. P.
'

'Sermons.' Stanley's
S. Paul
was

were approaching Rome, all the bases of the mountains now) clustered round with the villas and gardens of partially wealthy citizens. The Appian Way climbs and then descends along its southern it crossed a crater-like valley on immense structions subslope. After passing Lanuvium Here is Aricia,an still remain. The which Rome. easy stage from of beggars beset travellers above the road, and on the hillside swarms town was of the next rise,Paul On the summit of Tarsus would obtain as they passed. his first view of Rome. There is no doubt that the prospect was, in many

When

(as indeed

they

are

respects, very

different from the view which is now obtained from the same the features of the scene The long that natural unaltered. are spot. wall of the blue Sabine mountains, with Soracte in the distance,closed in the to the sea and round the base of the Campagna, which stretched far across Alban hills. But ancient Rome was not, like modern Rome, impressive from its standing alone, with its one conspicuous cupola, in the midst of a solitude, desolate though beautiful waste. S. Paul would see a vast city,covering the Campagna, and almost continuously connected by its suburbs with the villas on the hill where he stood, and with the bright towns which clustered on the sides of the mountains the houses and opposite. Over all the intermediate space were gardens, through which aqueducts and roads might be traced in converging lines the confused towards of edifices which formed the city of Rome. Here no mass tion. conspicuous building, elevated above the rest,attracted the eye or the imaginahad neither cupola nor Rome Ancient campanile, stillless had it any of Christendom. those spireswhich give life to all the capitalsof Northern It was streets a wide-spread aggregate of buildings, which, though separatedby narrow from criminate and open spaces, appeared, when seen near Aricia,blended into one indisthe contrasts which divided the crowded mass ; for distance concealed of filth and misery from the theatres habitations of the poor and the dark haunts and colonnades, the baths, the temples, and palaces with gilded roofs,flashing back the sun. ' The road descended into the plain at Bovillae,six miles from Aricia ; and thence it proceeded in a straightline,with the sepulchres of illustrious families One of these the burial-place of the Julian either hand. was on gens, with in some which who the centurion had charge of the prisoners was nected. conway the old pavement, among As they proceeded over gardens and modern the busy metropolis" the "conflux issuing forth houses, and approached nearer horsemen in various costumes errands" and on various or entering in vehicles, and foreigners" became and foot-passengers,soldiers and labourers, Romans closer. crowded and confusing. The houses grew more They were already in of the city. Its populous Rome. It was impossible to define the commencement The far beyond the limits marked out by Servius. ancient portions extended rather an sacred pomoeriura, was object for antiquarian wall, with its once interest,like the walls of York or Chester, than any protection against the kept far aloof by the legions on the frontier. enemies, who were ' Yet the Porta Capena is a spot which we can hardly leave without lingering for a moment. Under this arch" which was perpetuallydripping with the water of the aqueduct that went it" had over passed all those who, since a remote period of the republic,had travelled by the Appian Way" victorious generals and with their legions returning from courtiers, foreign service" emperors Jews vagrant representatives of every form of heathenism, Greeks and Asiatics, From the city, Julius and his and Christians. this point entering within
It is true
"

The

Via

Appia

285

prisoners
Coelian,
Paliitiiie
the Arch

moved and
;

on,

with the
the to

the
hollow low

Aventine

on

their which

left,

close between
where of
was

round
this

the

base hill
was

of and

the the

through
over

pround ridjje
called the into
that

lay

thence of

Velia,
destruction which

afterwards

built "then

Titus, by
the

coniniemorate

Jerusalem;
the centre of most

and

descending
power

Via

Sacra

space associated
was

imperial glorious Acropolis

Here

and

imperial
of

magnificence, republic.
heart
of The

and
Forum

also to Rome

with

the what
of

recollecticMis
was was

the the

the the

to the

Alliens,
MiUiarium
were

all
to

the which

characteristic tlie which

In the every

interest
of
were

place.

Atiretun,
the and before
name

roads

all

the

provinces
in

converged. closing
years

All of

around the

stately by
the the
is

buildings, early
invasion
emperors. of in
were

raised front Close

was on

the

republic long
whose of of Caesar"

the the

Capitoline
left,

Hill, covering
with the
"

illustrious that the '"house

a

Gauls. modern the

vast

hill notion

associated

European
ranges of

language
the

imperial
(Phil.
to

splendour,
iv.

palace (piartered
it
was

22).

Here

were

the here

household

troops

in

praetorium
Praetorium

attached
camp I'raetorium

the
outside

palace.
the whose
be

And

(unless,
Julius
gave

indeed,
up to

in

the
to all

great

city

wall)

his
in

prisoner custody

Burrus,
accused IJowson.

the

Prefect,
were

official

duty
the

it

was

keep
"

persons

who

to

tried

before

Emperor.'

Conybeare

and

CHAPTER
THE

X
AND VIMINAL

QUIRINAL

S. Andrea Barberini" a Palazzo Palazzo Albani" S. Carlo a Quattro Fontane" Cavallo" Palace" Palazzo Rospigliosi Monte Palazzo della Consulta" Qiiirinal Cavallo" Colonna Gardens S. Silvestro a Monte and Temple of the Sun" in S. Caterina S. Maria di Siena" SS. Domenlco e Sisto" S. Agata del Goti" Eremita S. Lorenzo Pane Pudentiana" Paolo Primo Monte" S. Perna" S. e S. Diouisio" S. Vitale.
"

"

is difficult to determine IT times regarded

were

the

exact

limits

of what

in ancient

to the other whole regio being called 'in fact like the Esquiline and Coelian, are hills, inwards from a common merely spurs or tongues of hill, projecting base, the broad table-land which slopes on the other side almost imperceptibly into the Campagna.^ That which is described in

in ancient

times, were
were

the Quirinal and Viminal as called colics, in contradistinction

monies"

which, hills,

which five hills, These CoUina.

called

the

the district to hills is chiefly the rightof the Via Quattro Fontane, and its continuations, which extend in a straight line to S. Maria Maggiore. The Quirinal,like all the other hills, except the Palatine and the Coelian, belonged to the Sabines in the earlier period of Koman history, and is full of records of their occupation. They had a this

chapter

as

belonging to

these two

capitalhere which is and the Capitoline, on

Juno, and
The
name

believed which This

to
was

Minerva.

Sabine

have been long anterior to that crowned by a temple of Jupiter, capitaloccupied the site of the from the Sabine their
name

present Palazzo Kospigliosi.

Quirinal is derived
gave
to their

word

Quiris,

signifyinga lance,which
or

the Sabines

god the name death Romulus received this title, and an important temple was thus raised to him this name, the Quirinal by Numa,-^ under on This identifying him with Janus Quirinus, the national god. by Ovid.* It temple was surrounded by a sacred grove mentioned his rebuilt the commemorate Consul L. Papirius Cursor, to was by he adorned B.C. triumph after the third Samnite 293, when war, it with a sundial (solarium horologium),the first set up in Rome,
which, however, not
1 2

lance-bearers, and

of Quirites Quirinus.^ After his

being

constructed
under the

for the

right latitude,did

Merivale, Romans
Hist. Rom.
4

Ampere,

i. 141.

Empire, ch. xi. 3 Dionysius, ii.63.

Ovid, Met. xiv. 452, 453.

Palazzo
not

Barberini
was

287
not

show

the

time

correctly. This defect

remedied

till

nearly a century afterwards

correct

when Q. Marcius up a dial.^ In front of this temple grew two celebrated myrtle shared the called Patricia,the other Pleheia, which trees, one of their respective orders, as the orange tree at S. Sabina fortunes Dominicans. that of the Thus, up to the fifth century, does now and Plebeia pined ; but from the time Patricia flourished gloriously, the Plebeians when completely gained the upper hand, Patricia rebuilt by Augustus, and Dion The withered temple was away.of pillars Cassias states that the number by which it was surrounded iccorded with that of the years of his life.^
a : portico
"

Philippusset

Adjoiningthe temple was

'

V'icini pete porticum Quiriiii : habet otiosiorem Turbam non

Pompeius.' Martial,Ep.
'

xi. i.

Primo

sole milii

peragendum

Offlcium eras in valle Quirini.' Juvenal, Sat. ii. 132.

:

Hard

by

was
'

temple of
Fortuna

Fortuna

Publica

"

Qui dicet,Quondam
Hac

sacrata est colle Quirini erit.' die Publica : verus Ovid, Fast. iv. 375.

Sabine ancient an Also an altar to Mamurius, divinity, probably identical with Mars, and a Temple of Salus, or Health, which gave have stood nearly on which must to the Porta Salutaris, a name the site of the present Palazzo which, not Barberini, and near of in the Via S. where a was Vitale, Fever, Temple inappropriately, fever is stillprevalent. and demolished The site of the Temple of Quirinus, discovered S. Monte Cavallo. Andrea that a in 1626, was now occupied by nearly the of S. Silvestro was On the site of the Convent Temple of SemoBetween of these father Sabinus. two temples the reputed Sancus, friend and of Atticus the House (the was correspondent Pomponius of Cicero),a situation which gave an opportunity for the witticism of Cicero wlien he said that he would rather Caesar should dwell with Quirinus than with Salus, meaning that he would rather he should than be in good health.'' be at war lived Martial the epigrammatist, ' on In the same neighboui-hood whence he had a view as far as the third floor,in a narrow street,' the
on

porticoof Agrippa,near
site
now

the Flora.

the Flaminian Way. Below, probably the Piazza Barberini,was a Circus of occupied by

1 2

3 Dion xv. 35, 2. vicino scripseram ad te, (juia cognoram Quirino malo, quara Saluti.'" ^d Att. xii 45 "
'

Dyer's Rome, p. Pliny, Ilust. Aat.

De Caesare

95.

Cass. liv. ex tuia Uteris

: eum

(rvyyaoy

288
*

Walks

in Rome

Mater, ades, florum, ludis celebranda jocosis: Distuleram partes mense priore tuas. IncipisAprili : transis in tempora Maii. venit alter, Alter te fugiens,quum habet. Quum tua sint,cedantque tibi conflnia mensuni,
Convenit in laudes
cum

ille vel iste tuas.

Circus in hunc Hoc quoque

clamataque palma exit,

Circi
munere carmen

theatris : eat.' Ovid. Fast.

v.

183.

the Among the great families who lived on the Quirinal were had who of their street Vicus a Cornelii, Corndiorum, probably own, the slopes behind the present Colonna Palace ; and the Flavii, on of Sabine origin.^Domitian born here in the house was of the Flavii,afterwards consecrated by him as a temple, in which himself were buried, and Julia, Vespasian, Titus, and Domitian in the the ugly daughter of Titus well known from her statues Vatican.
who
were
"

erected on the fragments remain of the two buildings Quirinal during the later empire,Aurelian's Temple of the Sun and
some

As

the Baths of Constantine, they will be noticed in the regularcourse. In the hollow between the Quirinal and the Pincian Hills,where the Via Sistina meets the Via delle Quattro Fontane, is the small Piazza del Tritone, with a pretty fountain having the figureof a Triton blowing on a shell, by Bernini. Under the Papal Government

frequentlypainted by artists than this ; but is gone the pavement has been raised and now, t he fountain half buried,and the groups of great oxen straightened, subject was the subject
no
'

more

'

which

used

to surround

it

are

tale of the

past.^

of the hill, On the ascent justabove the Piazza del Tritone,is the noble Barberini Palace, built by Urban VIII. from designsof Carlo Maderno, continued by Borromini, and finished by Bernini,in 1640. the street by a magnificent railing from It is screened between columns, erected 1865-67 ; and if this railingcould be continued, and the block of houses towards the piazza removed, it would be far the most splendid private palace in Kome. This immense memorial of the magnificenceand is a building ambition of Urban VIII. Fearing that the family of Barberini that of Colonna, he also issued a Bull become absorbed in might which the name, of his house might pass by estates,and privileges male whether to any living or illegitimate, descendant, legitimate the child of prince or priest.^The size of the palace is enormous, smallest "apartment The in the buildingcontainingfortyrooms. left In have inhabited the the family wing usually right wing.
"
"

Vespasian had
the

brother

named

Sabinus

; his son's name

recalls that of Titus and wider does not

Tatius. 2 Hence

portion was
honour
3

any

Its lower shabby Via del Tritone leads to the Corso. formerly the Via del Angelo Custode, but Sardinian Rome guardian angel.

SilvaguL

Palazzo

Barberini

289

this century by the ex-king(Charles Prince of Peace' is the huge VII.) queen of Spain and the of in the Cardinal Cardinal late which Barberini, Pecci, apartment brother of Leo XIII., recently died. On this side is the grand found on the staircase,upon which is placetl a lion in high relief, Palestrina. It is before at this lion that Canova family property is said to have lain for hours upon the pavement, studying for his tomb of Clement XIII. in S. Peter's. The guarda-roba,badly kept, contains many curious relics of family grandeur ; amongst them is a sedan-chair, painted by Titian.
and
'
"

occupied in

the

beginning of

the last papal nephews who aspired to independentprintlieni enormously, appears to have VIII.,though he enriched been but little satisfied with them. He used to complain that he had four fit for nothing : first, relations who were Cardinal Francis, who was and a saint, worked miracles ; secondly. Cardinal Anthony, who was no a monk, and had no who orator an patience ; thirdly.Cardinal Anthony the younger, was an {i.e. ambassador), and did not know how to speak ; while the fourth was a general, who did not know how to draw the sword.' Goethe, Romische Briefe.'
were

'

The

Barberini

Urban cii)alitie3.

'

"

The Library (open on Thursdays from 9 to 2) contains a most valuable collection of MSS., about 7000 in number, brought together Cardinal Francesco VIII. Barberini, nephew of Urban by They include collections of letters of Galileo,Bembo, and Bellarmine ; the official reports to Urban VIII. relatingto the state of Catholicism in England in the time of Charles I. ; a copy of the Bible in the Samaritan character ; a Bible of the fourth century ; several manuscript copies of Dante missal illuminated by ; a of Ghirlandajo edifices, ; and a book of sketches of ancient Roman to the antiquarian 1465, by Giuliano di Sangallo most interesting and architect, as preserving the forms of many public buildings which have disappeared since that date. Among the 50,000 printed books is a Hebrew Bible of 1788, one of the twelve known copiesof the complete edition of Soncino ; a Latin Plato,by Ficino, with marginal notes by Tasso and his father Bernardo ; a Dante of 1477,
"

with

notes

huge Hall (adorned with second-rate a grand ceilingby Pietro da Cortona (159H-1699), the Forge of Vulcan, Minerva representing II Trionfo della Gloria,' t he and other Titans, annihilating mythologicalsubjects much admired and considered portant by Lanzi, by Kugler to be the most ima

In

the

by Bembo, "c. right wing is

'

statues), with

"

work of the artist. Four vast frescoes of the Fathers of the Church are preserved here, having been removed from the dome of S. Peter's, where they were replacedwith mosaics by Urban VIII. Below other frescoes by Pietro da Cortona, a portrait of are Urban illustrative of the events of his VIII., and some tapestries intense self-esteem : thus the Virgin and reign and of his own of the papacy at in the ornaments Angels are representedbringing his coronation,"c. But the conceit of Pope Urban reaches its climax in a room at the top of the house, which exhibits a number of the Barberini bees (the family crest) flocking against the sun, and it" to typifythe splendourof the family. The will of eclipsing
'

VOL.

I.

290
VIII. is the extinction of the

Walks
a

in Rome

curious document, providingagainst family in every apparent contingency. This, seems however, now likelyto take place ; the heir is a Sciarra. In the great hall are busts of Urban VIII. and his the room adjoining nephews, and several other fine works of sculpture, includinga and a veiled statue by a drunken faun, attributed to Michelangelo, in front of the palace, and all the Portuguese artist. The pillars with the which bees of the t eem Barberini, surroundingbuildings,

Pope Urban

very

and many other great Roman VIII. in the robe of Urban creeping up the Barberini,more than any other Roman S. Peter's. Altogether, of the statelyold days before the palace, retains a reminiscence Sardinian rule, when, instead of a meretricious fountain lighted by the visit of a king,torches blazed on every to welcome electricity, alternate step of the great staircase to receive a cardinal ; and of the street as far as when but the houses not only the palace, with old when S. Teresa were a princeof hung splendid tapestries,
may
seen on

also be and edifices,

the
are

Propaganda

which

entering the palace, is the small Collection of the custode chooses to be Pictures (open daily from 12 till 4, when indifferently there), lodged for a buildingso magnificent. We may

the house On the

of Barberini

was

buried.

right,

on

notice:

"

1st Room

"

5. Domenichino

Adam

and

Eve.

2nd Room

"

33. Andrea

35. Titian 48. Francia

Sacchi: Urban VIII. A Cardinal. and Child,S. John and : Madonna 54. Sodoma and Child. : Madonna Bellini : Madonna 58. Giovanni and Child.
:

S. Jerome.

63.

Mengs
:

Daughter
:

of

Raphael Mengs.

67. Masaccio

Portrait of himself.

Srd Room

"

72. Palma
'

Vecchio

The

'Schiava.' the manacles

"

This picture,with a totallyunmeaning taken from name, to Titian, but one of the well-known the hands, is attributed Palma Vecchio" was evidently the mode].'" Kugler. 76. Claude Lorraine : Castel Gandolfo. 78. Bronzino : Portrait. 79. Albert Dilrer: Christ among the Doctors" Affreux docteurs, laids Emile Montcgut.
81. 82.
'

on

daughters

of

painted in
comme

five

comme

leur science,et vieux

'

leurs

days,in 1506. grimoires.'

"

Caravaggio : : The Raffaelle

The Mother of Beatrice Cenci ? Fornarina (with the painter's name authorities nevertheless attribute though many Sebastiano del Piombo).

'

on

the

armlet,
to

the

picture

' The history of this person, to whom attached even Raffaelle was to his death, is obscure, nor are we very clear with regard to her likenesses. In the tribune at Florence there is a portrait" inscribed with the date 1512, of a very beautiful which is woman with her right hand" holding the fur trimming of her mantle said to represent her. The picture is decidedly by Raffaelle, but can hardly to this portrait, which represent the Fornarina ; at least It has no resemblance

292
to know

Walks

in Rome

that nothing can be done to help or comfort her ; neither does she ask comfort, knowing the hopelessness of her case better than we do. She is a fallen angel fallen and yet sinless ; and it is only this depth of sorrow, with its weight and darkness, that keeps her down to earth, and brings her within our view even while it sets her beyond our i'e"ich.'" Hawthorne.

help

or

"

The portraitof Beatrice Cenci is a picture almost impossible to be forgotten. and beauty of the face there is a something sweetness Through the transcendent I see it now, this paper The or as I see shining out that haunts me. my pen. is loosely draped in white ; the light hair fallingdown head below the linen folds. She has turned suddenly towards expression in the you ; and there is an although they are very tender and gentle" as if the wildness of a momentary eyes" terror or distraction had been that instant ; struggled with and overcome and nothing but a celestial hope, and a beautiful sorrow, and a desolate earthly Some stories say that Guido helplessnessremained. painted it the night before her execution ; some other stories, that he painted it from memoiy, after having her on her way to the scaffold. I am to believe seen willing that, as you see her on his canvas, she turned the first sight so towards him in the crowd, from of the axe, and stamped upon he has stamped on mine his mind a look which as The guiltypalace of the Cenci" though I had stood beside him in the concourse. a whole quarter of the town, as it stands withering away blighting 1)ygrainsto my had that face, fancy, in its dismal porch, and at its black blind windows, and growing out of the darkness and flitting its dreary stairs, of its up and doAvn ghostly galleries. The history is written in the painting ; written, in the dying hand. And oh ! how in that one touch she puts to girl's face,by Nature's own flight (insteadof making kin) the puny world that claims to be related to her, in right of poor conventional forgeries! Dickens.
'
"

'

to this

pretty old-faslnoned garden belonging of which overhangingan old statue stood the celebrated Barberini Pine, often drawn by artists from the Via Sterrata at the back of the garden, where statue and pine combined well with the Church of S. Caio ; but, alas ! this magnificent in 1872, and the church tree was has since been cut down
was a

Till late years, there

at palace,
one

corner

"

"

destroyed.
the back of the palace-court, behind the arched bridgeleading the garden, is let into the wall which formed an inscription part of the dedication of the arch erected to Claudius by the senate and people,in honour of the conquest of Britain. The letters were inlaid with bronze. It was found near the Palazzo Sciarra,where the arch is supposed to have stood. In front of the palace, a statue Thorwaldsen fact his studio the of commemorates of having been in At to
" "

the

neighbouringstreet. find four ugly statues of we Ascending to the summit of the hill, lying over the Quattro Fontane, from which the street river-gods
takes its name. On the left is the Palazzo Albani del Drago, restored by the late Queen Christina of Spain. Here on the staircase are two of the which curious representationsin ojms sectila marnioreum formerly The site of this palace and the existed in the Church of S. Andrea. soleum. opposite church was probably that of the Flavian house and maulatter structure as a round temple, Ligorio describes the with
a

pronaos

of six

composite columns.

' is a very ancient painting of Jupiter and Ganymede, In one of the palace rooms in a very uncommon style, uniting considerable grandeur of conception, great force and decision,and a deep tone and colour, which produce great effect. It Eaton's ^ Rome.' is said to be Grecian.'
"

The
The

Quattro Fontane

293

opposite church, S. Caxlo a Quattro Fontane, is worth church and observing, from the fact that the whole building, of the four piers supporting the convent, correspondswith one the point of attack against of formed cupola S. Peter's. Here was the flight caused the Quirinal Palace, November 16, 1848, which
From of Pius IX. and the downfall of his government. a window killed Monsignor Palma, fired which of this convent the shot was ecclesiastical and a writer on of the pontifical "one secretaries, of the history who had unfortunately exposed himself at one The windows church contains two picturesby Miynard opposite. to the historyof S. Carlo. relating leads towards the fountain of Trevi from A steep street, which
"

the site of the Porta Sangualis.^Nearer to the Porta Salutaris. was d own del Quirinale,one side of the street is ocVia cupied Turning (right) portionof the Quirinal Palace formerly used by the immense of the cardinals collected and imprisoned for the accommodation

hence, probably crosses the Quattro Fontane

during
Cavallo is told

the

papal conclaves.
an

On

the

left is S. Andrea

Monte

erected, as (on the supposed site of the Temple of Quirinus),

inside, by Camillo Pamfili, nephew of inscription It has a corinthian Innocent X., from designs of Bernini. fagade ionic The with columns. and semicircular a portico projecting lined interior is oval. It is exceedingly rich,being almost entirely divided by streaked with white with red marble (Sicilianjasper), white marble pillars supportinga giltcupola. The high altar supposed the body of S. Zeno between to cover really magnificent is surmounted by Borgognone. of the pillars, by a fine picture, this is the tomb, by Festa, of crucifixion of S. Andrew. Near

by

"

"

his throne in 1802, he died in the adjoining convent, where monk to become a Jesuit in 1818. On the right is the chapel of Santa Croce, with three picturesof the passion and death of Christ, by Brandini ; and that Emmanuel

IV., king of Sardinia, who

abdicated

of S. Francis Xavier, with three picturesby Baciccio,representing and lying dead Indian queen" the saint preaching baptizing an in China. On the left is the chapel of the in the island of Sancian of the three great Jesuit saints with David, pictures, by Virgin, S. Ignatius adoring Loyola,S. Francis Borgia,and S. LuigiGonzaga of the de la Nuit, of the Adoration the Virgin, and, by Gerard Stanislas and the of S. of the Magi ; chapel lastly Shepherds and under an Kostka, containing his shrine of gold and lapis-lazuli, beautiful adorned with which is a rich by altar, picture exceedingly the saint receiving the infant Jesus Carlo Maratta, representing At the sides of the chapel are two of His mother. from the arms of which other pictures by Maratta, one represents S. Stanislas the other bathing with water his breast inflamed with divine love,' hands the host the of These the from are his receiving an angel. S. Stanislas, who incidents in the story of the young three principal and abandoned the world to shut noble Polish to a family belonged
" " "

'

Livy, viii.20.

294

Walks

in Rome

himself up here,saying, ' I am not born for the world ; that which my heart desires is the good
'I have long ago exhausted all my of churches ; but methiiiks this

good thingsof this thingsof eternity.'

for splendid interiors capacity of admiration little temple (it is not more than little, or fifty sixtyfeet across)has a more perfect and gem-like beauty than any other. Its shape is oval, with an oval dome, and above that another little dome, both of which are Around the base of the larger dome magnificently frescoed. is wreathed a flightof angels, and the smaller and upper one is encircled by a garland of cherubs" cherub and angel all of pure white marble. The oval centre of the church is walled round with precious and lustrous marble, of a red-veined of white ; and there are arches, variety interspersedwith columns and pilasters to opening through this rich wall, fonning chapels, which the architect seems have striven hard to make than the main even more body of the church. gorgeous The pavement is one star of various tinted marbles.' Hawthorne, 'Notes 07i Italy.'
"

in this chapel. Pope Leo XIII. (Vincenzo Pecci) said his first mass in church the is attended mass early frequently by Queen Margherita the Pearl of Savoy.' The
'
"

The adjoiningConvent of the Noviciate of the Order of Jesns Kostka contains the room in which S. Stanislas died, at the age of eighteen,with his reclining statue by Le Gros, the body in white, his dress (thatof a novice) in black,and the couch upon which he lies in yellow marble. Beyond his statue is a pictureof a celestial vision which consoled him in his last moments. On the day of his is thrown is said death, November 13th, the convent open, and mass without ceasingin this chamber, which is visited by thousands.
nait
"

de S. Stanislas Kostka est un 'La petite chambre spontanement dans le coeur, et s'en echappe comme Veuillot, 'Parfum de Jtoine,'i

de

ces

lieux
un

ou

par

cours

la priere naturel.'

doors In the neighbouring corridor of the convent, the original which led to the cells of S. Francesco Borgia and S. Ignazio della Vigna are preserved. In the convent garden is shown the fountain the angels used to bathe the breast of S. Stanislas burning where with the love of Christ.' the Near this church one of the ancient altars erected to demand divine protectionagainstfire, after the great fire under Nero, was
'

discovered in 1889. Gardens take the place of the old Benedictine now convent, which had a courtyard containing a sarcophagus as a fountain, and a decorated humble church with rude frescoes of S. Benedict and S. Scholastica ; also of a small and popular church, rich in marbles, del belonging to the Perpetue Adoratrici del Divino Sacramento of the Incarnation, who died Altare, founded by Sister Maddalena Here the low buried on the rightof the entrance. 1829, and was chant of the perpetual adoration might be constantly monotonous all destroyedin 1888, to heard. These interesting buildingswere which to be occupiedfor make were a garden in front of the rooms ! the of a few days by Germany Emperor
etiam in tenera aetate caetera sapientiae tuae miracula ut beati Stanislai sanctitatis gratiam contulisti ; da, quaesumus, ingredi requiem exemplo, tempus, instanter operando, redimentes, in aeternam festinemus.' Collect of SS. Kostka,Roman Vesper-Booh.
1

'Deus, qui inter

maturae

"

Piazza

di Monte

Cavallo

295

The Piazza of the Monte Cavallo has in its centre the red granite obelisk (ninety-five feet high with its base) erected here by Antinori in 1781, for Pius VI. It was originallybrought from Egypt by in front of S. Maria Claudius,a.d. 57, togetherwith the obelisk now of the both first placed at the entrance Maggiore,and they were of Augustus. At its base are the colossal statues found mausoleum in the Baths of Constantino, of the Dioscuri, Castor and Pollux, in their horses. These statues, which, according to an old reining to the from Tiridates, a present to Nero were give a name tradition, of Phidias and Praxiteles, district. Their bases bear the names and, such of work distinguished though they have no claim to be the sculptors,they are probably copies of bronze originalsof Greek facing the positionof the figures the men origin. The original
"

lias been learnt from coins, horses and holding them in as they rear at Berlin,where and reproduced in statues on the top of the Museum Fortschritt and Beforderter they have the nicknames of Gehemmter Riickschritt encouraged. Progress checked and Retrogression Middle in the of believed the horses, as The story Ages, is given in the Mirahilia :
"

"

"

that to Rome two young men In the time of the Emperor Tiberius there came the emperor, Praxitfles and Phidias,whom observing philosophers,named them to be of so much wisdom, kept nigh unto himself in his palace ; and he said and said,"Because do ye go abroad naked?" who answered to them, "Wherefore fore all things are naked and open to us, and we hold the world of no account, thereand possess nothing ; and they said, " Whatsoever we thou, most go naked shalt devise in thy chamber by day or night,albeit we be absent, mighty emperor, " If ye shall do that ye say," said the emperor, will tell it thee every word." we and said, I will give you what They answered thing soever ye shall desire." next of the when And ask no us." "We memorial but a day was only money, he had thought of in in order whatsoever they showed unto the emperor come, them that he had that night. Therefore the memorial he made promised, to the mighty that earth" the the which on naked is, horses, upon wit, trample of this world ; and there shall come the men princes of the world that rule over the might of the shall mount the horses,that is,upon a full mighty king, which which stand half there two of be world. men Meanwhile the this naked, princes raised on high and bent fingerstell the things that by the horses,and with anus and open to to be ; and as they be naked, so is all worldly knowledge naked are their minds.'" 7Vrt"i". by F. M. yichols.
'

were

"

"

ence nevertheless draw the inferthis fable, wild and absurd as it is, we may from time immemorial down that the statues had been handed as the works morphosed of Phidias and Praxiteles, though those artists had in the lapse of ages been metaof a the existence into philosophers. May not also assume we In of Tiberius? in the reigii tradition that the statues were brought to Rome of statue been the a to have the Middle accompanied by Ages group appears Medusa, sitting at their feet, and having before her a shell. According to the in his Diarinin Italicum, this text of the Mirahilia, as given by Montfaucon her surrounded the Church. The which snakes typifiedthe tigure represented of Scripture, which vi"lnmes nobody could approach unless he had first been But the Pi-ague MS. of that is, baptized" in the water of the shell. washed" and tlie serpents to female the the Mirahilia Science, interprets figure represent * Ilxst. of she is concerned.*" to typify the disputed questions with which Z"i/er'" the City of Rome.'
'

From

Limitation du grand stylede Phidias est visible dans phisieurssculpturesqu'il et surtout dans les colosses de Castor et Pollux, domptant des chevaux, inspirees, de Monte Cavallo. qui out fait donner a une partie du mont Quirinal le nom II ne faut faire aucune attention aux inscriptions qui attribuent un des deux colosses i Phidias et I'autre i Praxit^le, Praxit^le dont le stylen'a rien i faire ici ;
'

'

296
son nom a

Walks
6t^ inscrit
a

in Rome

la base de I'une des deux statues,comrae PhMre le resur faussaires du temps d'Auguste, qui croyaient augmenter le le nom de Praxitele. nitrite d'un nouvel en Quelle que soit ouvrafre y mettant Cavallo ont ete executes,malgre quelques differences, I'epoque on les colosses de Monte doit affirmer que les deux originaux etaient de la meme on 6cole,de Tecole de Phidias.'" J^mpere, Hist. Rom. iii.252.

prochait d^ja

des

' Chacun des deux heros dompte d'une seule main un cheval fougueux qui se cette lutte de rhorame cabre. Ces formes colossales, les animaux, donnent, avec des anciens,une tons les ouvrages admirable idee de la puissance physique comme '"i"ad. de Stael. de la nature humaine.

'

Ye too, marvellous Twain, that erect on the Monte Cavallo Stand tjy your rearing steeds in the grace of your motionless movement, Stand with upstretched arms and tranquil regardant faces, Stand as instinct with life in the might of imnuitalile manhood, O ye mighty and strange, ye ancient divine ones of Hellas.'
"

Clough.
Before me the two Monte Cavallo statues,towering giganticallyabove were the pygmies of the present day, and looking like Titans in the act of threatening heaven. Over my head the stars were justbeginning to look out, and might have for giiardianangels keeping watch been taken the temples below. over Behind, and on my left, were palaces ; on my right,gardens, and hills beyond, with the them Within tints of sunset over stillglowing in the distance. a stone's orange throw of me, in the midst of objects thus glorious in themselves, and thiis in stuck harmony with each other, was an unplaned post, on which glimmered a Gxiesses Tnith. at lantern. Such is Rome.' paper
"

'

Close by is a fountain playing into granite,brought hither by Pius VII. from long been used for watering cattle. On

fine basin the Forum,

of Egyptian where it had

ment the left is the Palace of the Consulta, built in 1730 by CleXII. (Corsini), Before its gates some from designs of Fuga. of the Guardia Nobile were always to be seen sunning themselves in a uniform so resplendent that it was scarcelyto be believed that ' the pay of this 'noble guard of the pope amounted only to "5, 6s. 3d. a month. On the right is the immense the of the Quirinal,now Palace Royal Palace, which also extends along one whole side of the street have been pursuing. It may be visited on Thursday and Sunday we from 12 to 3.
Paul IV., began to erect the pope, the Quirinal Hill ; and the prolongation of his labom-s, by of the largest and ugliest has made it one a long series of successive pontiffs, buildings extant.'" jE'aton's 'Home.'
'

That

ruin-destroying palace-building, palace

on

enormous

The chief,indeed almost the only, interest of this palace arises from its having been the favourite residence of Pius VII. (Chiaramonte). It was here that he taken prisoner by the French General Radet forced his way into the pope's was the night of June 6th, 1809,and, while on room excusing himself for being the of the emperor, that he in the name hastily intimated to the pontiff, messenger, must at once abdicate his temporal sovereignty. Pius absolutely refused, upon the staircase, which he was forced to descend and found a coach waiting at the of the palace. Here entrance the pope paused, his face streaming with tears, in benediction his arms and, standing in the starlit piazza,solemnly extended his sleeping people. Then he entered over the carriage,followed by Cardinal 'Whirled hurried away to exile. through the heat Pacca, and was away and dust of an Italian summer's out day, without an attendant, without linen,withfor a moment his spectacles" fevered and wearied, he never lost his serenity. Cardinal Pacca tells us, that when they had just started on this most dismal of
. . .

Quirinal Palace

297

if he had Tlie secretary of state asked him any money. journeys, the pope "We tlien drew replied,that he liad hatl no opi)ortunityof providing himself. the state of the notwithstandiii"r fortli our continues "and, cardinal, purses," and all that was from Rome dear in at heinp thus torn away were attliction we our to us, we could hardly compose countenances, on finding the contents of and of mine, of three to consist^of the pope's,of a papetto (lOd.), each purse The pope, exbaiocchi between tending We had preciselythirty-five us. grossi(7.U1.). his hand, showed his papetto to General Radet, saying, at the same time, sent to Six years after Napoleon was "Look here" this is 'all I possess.'"! ! St. Helena, and Pius VII. returned in triumph to Rome
.
. .

from this same It was palacethat Pius IX. who never afterwards liisescape to Gaeta dnrinp: the Revolution of 1 848, inhabited it made the when the siege of the Quirinal by insurgents had succeeded in extollingthe appointment of a democratic ministry.
"
"

had arrived at the of November On the afternoon 24th, the Due d'Harcourt of the of France, and craved an audience Quirinal in his coach as ambassador not knew wondered that he but The so they stayed long ; guards sovereign. in the papal study, while the pope had retired that he sat reading the newspapers Here his major-domo, Filippani, had laid to change his dress. to his bedroom and dress of an ordinary priest. The pontiff took ofl' his out the black cassock forth in the simple garb he had robe, and came purple stole and white pontifical claiming, threw himself on his knees, exin his quiet youth. The Due d'Harcourt worn divine divine wisdom this "Go counsel, inspires forth,holy Father; staircases and narrow will lead it to a happy end." By secret passages power to a little door, used only occaPius IX. and his trusty servant sionally passed unseen to leave the palace. They for the Swiss guards, and by which they were that the key had been reached forgotten ! Filippani it, and bethought them hastened back to the papal apartment to fetch it ; and returning unquestioned in prayer. The the pontiffon his knees, and (piite absorbed to the wicket, found wards were opened ; but the door was nisty, and the key turned with difficulty at last, and the holy fugitive and his servant quickly entered a poor hackney Here outside. coach that was waiting for them again they ran risk of being to old etiquette of the other discovered through the thoughtless adherence the steps,knelt, servant, who stood by the coach, and who, having let down
'

usual, before he shut the door. round his priest's The pope wore cassock,a low-crowned a dark greatcoat over collar. woollen neckcloth outside his straight Roman hat, and a broad brown Filippani had on his usual loose cloak ; but under this he carried the threehat of the pope, a bundle of the most cornered private and secret papers, the the cmss-embroidered the breviary, slippers,a small ciuantityof l"apal seals, ness. stamped with the likeness of his Holilinen, and a little box full of gold medals to follow many From the inside of the carriage he directed the coachman in the hope of misleading the spies, who were winding and diverging streets, of SS. Pietro e Marcellino, Beside the Church known at every comer. to swarm in the deserted ([uarter minister, beyond the Coliseum, they found the Bavarian Count private can-iage, and imagining everj' danger Spaur, waiting in his own them detained could have which long. ITie sovereign pressed the hand of so his faithful Filippani and entered the Count's carriage. Silentlythey drove the passport Count Spaur having there shown on through the old gate of Rome"
as
'

minister of the P.avarian going Ui Naples on affairs of state. ' in the Meanwhile the Due d'Harcourt gi-ew tired of reading the newspapers be far beycmd the must pope's study; and when he thought that his Holiness hastened with all speed walls of Rome, he left the palace,and taking post-horses, he believed him the fugitive on the road to Civita Vecchia, whither to overtake to be flying. As he left the study in the Quirinal,a prelate entered with a large bundle of ecclesiastical papers, on which, he said, he liad to confer with the pope ; went in to read to him his breviary and the office of the then his chamberlain taken in as usual; and at were lighted up, and the supper day. The rooms

length it

was

stated
1

that

his Holiness, feeling somewhat Wiseman's

unwell, had

retired

Cardinal

Life of Pins

VII.

298
to

Walks

in Rome

dismissed for the were rest; aiul his attendants and the guard of honour night. It is true tliat a certain prelate,who chanced to see the little door by which the fugitivehad escaped into the street left open, began to cry out, The Prince Gabrielli has escaped ! the pope has escaped ! But beside was pope him ; and the mouth of the alarmist, silenced him clapping his hand upon in time, by whispering,"Be quiet, Monsignore ; be quiet,or we shall be cut to pieces!" Near La Riccia, the fugitivesfound Countess Spaur (who had arranged the whole plan of the escape) waiting with a coach and six horses, in which they Ave pursued their journey to Gaeta, reaching the Neapolitan frontier between and six in the morning. The pope throughout carried with him the sacrament in the pyx which Pius the Seventh carried when he was taken prisoner to France, and which, as if with prescience of what would happen, had been latelysent to him as a memorial by the Bishop of Avignon.'" Beste.
"
"

'

of Pius VII. in the Quirinal Palace, the cardinals met here for the election of his successor, in accordance with the law prescribingthat a conclave shall meet in the palace where the warranty of any kind, however, the conclaves pope dies. Without which resulted in the elections of Leo XII., Pius VIII.,Gregory XVI., and Pius IX., also met in the Quirinal Palace, to the desertion of the Vatican.
' In the afternoon of the last day of the novendiali, as they are called,after the death of a pope, assemble the cardinals Cavallo), (at S. Silvestro a Monte and walk in procession,accompanied by their conclavist!, a secretary, a chaplain, and a servant or two, to the great gate of the royal residence,in which one master and will remain lord. Of course, the hill is crowded as by supreme for the procession. Cardinals never before the avenue lining kept persons, open them and seen by them, or not for many eyes scan ; eager years, pass before in eye, in figure, measure or in them, and try to conjecture, from fancied omens will be shortly the sovereign of their fair city ; and, what is expression, who much the head of the Catholic Church, from the risingto the settingsun. more, They all enter equal over the threshold of that gate : they share together the in them all the and rule,spiritual temporal : there is still embosomed supreme all the world, and that will soon sound from one tongue over voice, yet silent, in of that authority which will soon the dormant again be concentrated germ will sit one alone. one man To-day they are all equal ; perhaps to-morrow enthroned, and all the rest will kiss his feet; one will be sovereign,and others his subjects ; one the shepherd, and the others his flock. 'From the Quirinal Palace stretches out, the length of a whole street,an of small immense wing, divided in its two upper floors into a great number but complete suites of apartments, occupied permanently or occasionally by attached to the Court. literally so, persons During conclave these are allotted, His food is attendants. to the cardinals, each of whom lives apart with his own brought daily from his own house, and is overhauled,and delivered to him in the shape of "broken victuals," by the watchful guardians of the turns and alone anything, even conversation, can penetrate into lattices, through which of that sacred For hours the first evening the the seclusion retreat. a few doors are left open, and the nobility,the diplomatic body, and, in fact, all
.
. .

On

the

death

from cell to cell, paying a brief compliment to presentable persons, may roam which its occupant, perhaps speaking the same they know good wishes to fifty, is left A wicket After that, all is closed. can only be accomplished in one. accessible for any cardinal to enter who is not yet arrived ; but every aperture is jealouslyguarded by faithful janitors, judges and prelatesof various tribunals, munication is opened and read, that no comwho another. relieve one Every letter even the The very street on which held with the outer world. looks is barricaded and guarded by a picket at each end ; ings and as, fortunately,opposite there are no private residences,and all the buildIn the is thereby created. from the back, no inconvenience have access from without, fervet opus. meantime, within, and unseen ' Twice a day the cardinals meet in the chapel belonging to the palace,included cannot in the enclosure, and there, tickets so arranged that the voter's name on

wing

of the

be may conclave

...

300
the

Walks
elevated
best

in Rome

only the

beauty of the angels are expressed with an easy naivete,to which works of Mautegna and Signorelli can compare.' Eugler.
"

and ninety feet long, are a were by Pius VII. and Gregory XVI. residence. Several apartments have mosaic summer hither from edifices. In one chamber pavements, brought pagan in Pius VII. was the next taken prisoner; he died. The roona, which is decorated with a fine modern of the martyrdom tapestry of S. Stephen, has a plaster frieze, cast of the being the original the Great, modelled for Napoleon by Thortriumph of Alexander waldsen. The Private Chapelof the Popes,opening from the picture-gallery, contains a magnificentpictureof the Annunciation by Ouido, and frescoes of the life of the Virgin by Alhani. The Palazzino has been erected for the accommodation of the of and Duchess Genoa other members of the royalfamily during their visits to Eome. The Gardens of the Quirinal,which, under the papal government, resort for strangers, are were a now usually closed to delightful the public. They are in the stiff styleof box hedges and clipped which to Rome, and w^hich we to belong especially seems avenues, have know been popular here even in imperial times. to Pliny, decorated in his account of his Tusculan d escribes his gardens villa, of different animals, cut in box ; evergreens with ' figures clipped different shapes ; sometimes into a thousand into letters forming different names hedges of cut box, and trees twisted ; walls and But the Quirinal gardens were also worth into a varietyof forms.' account of the many on pretty glimpses they afford of visiting, and of S. Peter's and other distant buildings, the oddity of some The devices the Casino, built by an organ played by water, "c. Pompco Battoni, and Pannini. Fuga, has frescoes b}^Orizonte, (The Rnyal Stahles may be visited with an order from the Palazzo S. Felice, 21 Via della Dateria, from 12 to 3 ; or, without an order, and to 10 from on Sunday 12.) Thursday turn to the left from the front of the palace,we reach If we on to the courtyard of the vast Palazzo Rospigthe left the entrance built by Flaminio Ponzio, in 1 603, for Cardinal ScipioBorghese, liosi, habited insite of the Baths of Constantino. It was a portion of the on him Cardinal Cardinal and sold to Bentivoglio, by by From Mazarin, who enlarged it from designs of Carlo Maderno. inhabited his time to 1704 it was by French ambassadors, and it
a

Beyond

great hall, one

which

number of rooms for the papal

hundred fitted up

"

"

"

then passed to the Rospigliosi family. nesdays The palace itself is not shown, but the Casino is open on Wedand Saturdays from It is situated at the end of a 9 to 3. very small but pretty garden planted with magnolias, and consists is the famous of three chambers. On the roof of the central room
Aurora
'

of Guido.
Aurora is the very such hurry and from that it is lighted

Gnido's

type of haste
tumult,
two

ever

imagined

maintain

and impetus ; for surely no man such sounding and clashing. Painters sides" they have my full permissionto light

Colonna
theirs from Mendelssohn
'

Gardens
them,
but the difference

301
lies elsewhere.'"

three
s

Letters,p.

if it will improve 91.

This is the noblest work o" Guido. It is embodied that poetiy. The Hoiirs, hand in hand encircle the car of Phoebus, advance with rapid pace. The paler, milder forms of those gentle sisters who rule over decliningday, and the glowing glance of those who bask in the meridian blaze, resplendent in the hues of heaven, are of no mortal grace and beauty ; but they are eclipsed by Aurora of herself, who sails on the golden clouds before them, shedding " showers the rejoicingearth; her celestial presence on shadowing roses diffusinggladness, and beauty around. and light, the heads of the heavenly coursers Above hovers the morning star, in the form of a youthful cherub, bearing his flaming torch. in this beautiful composition than the motion admirable Nothing is more and rapid step of the circlingHours as given to the whole : the smooth they tread on the fleecyclouds ; the fiery steeds ; the whirling wheels of the car ; the torch of Lucifer, blown back by the velocity of his advance ; and the form of till you almost fear she should float from Aurora, borne through the ambient air, Eaton's 'Home.' your B\^\\i.'"
"

soft, and

work of Guido is more poetic than that of Guercino, and luminous, and harmonious. Cupid, Aurora, Phoebus, form a climax of beauty,and the Hours seem which they dance.' on as light as the clouds Forsyth.
"

"The

Lanzi points out that Guido always took the Venus de' Medici and the Niobe as his favourite models, and that there is scarcelyone of his large pictures in which the JSiobe or one of her sons is not introduced, yet with such dexterity that the theft is scarcelyperceptible.

The frescoes of the frieze are by Tempesta ; the landscape by Two Paul Brill. columns, twelve feet high, are, with the steps at S. Prassede, the finest known specimens of the Greek marble In the hall are Rosso antico. busts, statues, and a bronze horse found in the ruins of the Baths. There is a small collection of pictures. The only work of real in left the the the is beautiful Daniele di room on importance Volterra of our Saviour bearing His cross. In the same room are two large pictures David triumphing with the head of Goliath, Domenichino Perseus Guido. In the rescuing Andromeda, ; and the right are Adam for Eve, in room on gathering fig-leaves Paradise which with animals like a is crowded a menagerie, Domenichino Samson tines, pullingdown the pillars ; and upon the PhilisLudovico Caracci. Here also is a very remarkable picture of Juno Venus, by Lorenzo Lotto, full of life, motion, chastising and fury. A fine bronze bust represents the Rospigliosi pope, Clement IX. small garden belonging to this palace is well worth A second seeing in May, from the wealth of camellias, azaleas, and roses with which it is filled. In the palace, Benvenuto Cellini's famous salt-cellar is preserved a shell restingon an enamel dragon. is the P alace the handsome entrance Opposite Rospigliosi very to the Colonna be seen Gardens on (which may Wednesdays by the Quirinal). The ringing at a bell by a door rather nearer with the palace in the Piazza SS. Apostoli gardens are connected the intervening street. by a series of bridges across Here, on a terrace which has view towards fine the a lofty shadowed Capitol,and overby grand cypresses, are the colossal remains long supposed to belong to the Temple of the Sun (huge fragments of Corinthian cornice, one of them being the largestblock of marble
" " " "

302
in

Walks

in Rome
now

Rome) built by Aurelian

of the
we pit,

but (a.d. 270-275),

part of the decorations

end of of

of the Baths

of Constantine.

terrace,
can see

looking down

through

two
"

considered to be At the other barns into a kind

"

of the baths remains built a.d. 326 and the great staircase which led up to them the valley from The portico of these baths remained below. erect till the time of Clement adorned XII. (1730-40),and with four marble was of of which those the two two Constantines now statues, may of the Capitol, be seen the terrace and a third in the Portico of on the Lateran.
some
"

"

the Beneath magnificent cypress -trees on the slope of the hill are several fine sarcophagi. Only the stem is preserved of the grand historical pine-tree which was planted on the day on which di Rienzi Cola of the was died, and which one great of the city till 1848, when it was ornaments broken in a storm. These gardens,with their temple ruins, statues, cypresses, birds, beautiful spot which and flowers, the most the recent changes are have spared to us in Rome. Incredible, however, as it may seem, noble and historic family of Colonna the once would have sold the for buildingland, if the Government had not upper part of them of the two pagan ruins which account on interfered, they contain. Just beyond the end of the garden is the Church of S. Silvestro Cavallo a Monte belonging to the Missionaries of S. Vincent de Paul in which the cardinals used to meet before going in procession to the conclave. It contains a few rather good pictures.
" "

The cupola of the second chapel has frescoes by Domenichino, of before the David Ark, the Queen of Sheba and Solomon, dancing the head Judith with of Holofernes, and Esther faintingbefore considered These Lanzi of the finest Ahasuerus. are as some by In the left transept is a chapelcontaining frescoes of the master. of the the a Assumption, painted on slate, considered picture the Caetani. The last chapel but one on masterpiece of Scipione Cav. and wall frescoes the left has a ceiling on by by d'Arpino, the altar, representing Polidoro da Caravaggio. The picture over and S. Catherine of Siena, is by Mariotto Alhertindli. S. Dominic who in the history of the wars" Cardinal wrote Bentivoglio is buried here, with Palace Flanders, and lived in the Rospigliosi honest Gian Giacopo Pancirelli, the one minister of the Cardinal VI. The adjoiningconvent, beneath which reign of Alexander have been discovered in 1881,^ Sancus remains of a shrine of Semo
" "

is

now

the
now

headquarters of the Royal Engineers.

reach the heightof Magnanopoli,from which the isthmus joinedthe Quirinal to the Capitolinewas cut away by Trajan, the wall of the Villa Aldobrandini, radiant with Here, beneath flowers in spring,is a crossways, in the centre of which a fragment of the ancient wall of the time of the kings is preserved. Another fragment,in the neighbouringPalazzo Antonelli, retains a massive We which
1

The

statue

Candelabri

of the god and at the Vatican.

its inscribed

pedestal are

now

in the Galleria dei

S. Caterina
stone

di Siena

303

as

tions The foundaarchway, supposed to be the Porta Fontinalis. concrete of under this arch are important as showing the use Via Nazionale early as tlie time of the kings. The ugly modern
east

S. Maria degliAngeli,and west, through what was The turn Antonelli,to the Piazza Colonna. t he garden of Cardinal Aldobrandini of and effect the the hill lofty this, near given to the Garden amongst the houses, is one of the best thingsdone in Rome since the Sardinian rule. A fine house of the first century A.D., with paintedwalls,was discovered near this in June 1884, but xquisitely leads
to

ordered. at once destruction was some Opposite is the Church of S. Caterina di Siena, possessing Timoteo master to the rare frescoes attributed,on doubtful grounds, the enclosed within is Vite. a dclla large convent, cincts preAdjoining called of which is the tall brick mediaeval tower, sometimes i.e. del Milizie, known as the Torre of Nero, but generally the Tower of erected Peter the Alexius, Militia. It was sons of the Roman by The de Suburra, attached to the party of Senator Pandolfo a baron 1294 the in in built been said have to lower part is 1210, upper
its

and
'

1330.

the firstin learning, of study at Rome" pass through two regular courses and the second in unlearning. ' " he saw the city in flames" and this which of Nero, from This is the Tower and this and this is the Temple of Castor and Pollux" is the Temple of Concord" and these are the Baths of Paulus Aemilius," and so on, is the Temple of Vesta"

People

says
'

your lacquey. that the Temple of Castor and of Nero" nor Tliis is not the Tower nor are the other the Temple of Concord" nor any of these things what 'Rome.' i'afou's antiquary,'" called," says your
"

Pollux"

they

are

built by the celebrated Vittoria of S. Caterina was Convent Colonna, who requested the advice of Michelangelo on the subject, Torre ' into a belfry. and was told she had better make the ancient of the interview in which this subject was A very curious account of S. Silvestro a discussed,and which took place in the Church of memoirs in the Francesco is left d'Olanda, a Monte us Cavallo, himself present at the conversation. who was Portuguese painter, other fine mediaeval towers. Near this point are two One, now descent the left of the to the engrafted in the Via Nazionale, on called Tor di Babele, Piazza Venezia, is that of the Colonna, now with three beaiitiful fragments of sculptured and is ornamented of them one bearing the device of the Colonna, a crowned frieze, The
'

column
us,
name.

from rising Torre

wreath. del

is called

The other tower, immediately facing Grillo, from the ancient family of that

Church of SS. Domenico e OppositeS. Caterina is the handsome the effect of Sisto, approached by a good double twisted staircase, Over the which was greatlyinjured by the changes of 1870-77. of S. the left of second altar on is a picture the marriage Catherine

and, on the anniversary of her (visionary) marriage by Allegrani, of hand is exhibited the the undried to the saint speakable here, (July 19),
comfort In

opening

or

of the faithful. the Via Nazionale building

between

this

pointand

304
the

Walks

in Rome

of Diocletian Baths fragments and foundations of the many of illustrious Romans discovered were palaces (and destroyed or lined the Vicus Longus. These reburied) which once included, the right, the magnificent houses of Lucius Naevius on Clemens, Publia Materna, C. Articuleius Germanianus, Tiberius Julius Frugi, C. Julius Avitus, P. Numicius Caesianus,and ScipioOrfitus ; faced, the side of the on opposite street, by the houses of the Claudii Claudiani, of M. Postumius Festus, T. Avidius Quietus, the Lampadii, T. Aelius Antonius Severus, "c.-^ We turn by SS. Domenico e Sisto into the Via Magnainopoli Baths of Pauli formerly Bagnanopoli, a corruption of Balnea Emilius Paulus, a name given to the ruins on the east side of the Forum of Trajan. The Mirabilia speaks of the corruption of the 'Vado ad Napulim,' supposed in the Middle name Ages to have been the exclamation of the wizard Virgil, who, on this spot, being taken by the Romans, escaped invisibly, and went to Naples. On the left we pass the Palazzo Aldobrandini, with a bright,pleasantbrandini The fountain. looking court and handsome present Prince Aldois brother of the late Prince Borghese. The fortunes of
"
"

this

VIII., who by Clement presented his nephew. Cardinal Aldobrandini, with a million scudi in ready Of this family was S. Pietro Aldobrandini, generally money. known S. Pietro who canonised as was because, in 1067, he Igneo, walked unhurt, crucifix in hand, through a burning fieryfurnace
were

house

founded

ten

feet
an

long before

accusation Pavia, bishop of that city. In the Via di Mazzarini, in the hollow between the Quirinaland yard Viminal, is the Convent of S. Agata in Suburra, through the courtA which tion tradiof the Church enter of S. Agata del Goti. we declares that this (like S, Sabba on the Aventine) is on the site mother of a house of S. Silvia, of S. Gregory the Great, who crated consethe church after it had been plundered by the Goths, and prove
di It was it to S. Agata. rebuilt by Ricimer, the kingmaker, ancient But who buried here in A.D. twelve 472. was granite columns and a handsome opus-alexandrinum pavement are the only remaining signsof antiquity. The church now belongs to the Irish Seminary. In the left aisle is the monument of Daniel O'Connell,with bas-reliefs by Benzoni, inscribed :

door of Settimo, near the church Florence, to Pietro of simony which he had brought against

dedicated

"

his monument contains the heart of O'Connell, who dying at Genoa on to the Eternal City,bequeathed his soul to God, his body to Ireland,and his of Commons heart to Rome. He is represented at the bar of the British House in MDCCCXXIII., in these he refused to take the anti-Catholic declaration, when " words I at once remarkable : reject this declaration ; part of it I believe to be
'

This

way

born vi. Aug., ilDCCLXXVI., the rest I know to be false." He was died xv. May, MDCCCXLVIII. Erected Charles Bianconi, the faithful by friend of the immortal and of Ireland the land of his adoption." liberator,

untrue, and
and

At

(who

Cardinal Antonelli which the end of the left aisle is a chapel, had his palace near this)decorated, 1863, with frescoes and
1

See Rudolfo

Lanciani

in the Athenaeum

of March

8, 1884.

S.

Agata

dei Goti

305

for his family. In the opposite chapel arabesquesas a burial-place of S. Agata carrying her breasts is a gilt showing the manner figure
"

in which
'

she suffered.

sent whither Decius the emperor Agatha was a maiden of Catania, in Sicily, with of inflamed the her by beauty tempted as He, Agatha, i/uiutianus governor. Then Quintianus rich giftsand promises, but she repulsed him with disdain. ordered lier to be bound and beaten with rods, and sent two of his slaves to tear with iron shears,and, as her blood flowed forth,she said to him, "O her bosom to tear me thus?" hast thou not thyself tlu)U cruel tyrant I art thou not ashamed been fed at thy mother's breasts ? Thus only did she murmur. And in the night of ointment, and before him walked to her,bearing a vase man came a venerable a youth bearing a torch. It was the holy apostle Peter, and the youth was an it not, though such a gloriouslight filled the prison, angel ; but Agatha knew Then S. Peter made himself known and minis* that the guards fled in terror. breasts. tered to her, restoringwith heavenly balm her wounded "He demanded who had healed her. She replied, 'Quintianus, infuriated, He hath sent His apostle, I confess and adore with heart and lips, who hath whom healed me." Then Quintianus caused her to be thrown bound a great fire, upon visitation but instantly an earthquake arose, and the people in terror cried, "This of the maiden is sent because of tlie sutterings Agatha." So he caused her to be and carried back to prison, where she prayed aloud that,having taken from tlie fire, she might be freed from now pain and see the glory of God ; proved her faith, and her spirit and her prayer was answered instantly departed into eternal glory, the ' Legende delle SS. Vergini.' Feb. 5th, A.D. 261.' From
"
. . . "

of Catania) is one Agata (patroness

of the saints most

reverenced
are

people. On the 5th of by the Koman here, and contain the antiphons:
"

February her vespers

sung

to heal my wounds ?" I am NMio art thou that art come an apostleof Christ ; iloul)tnot concerning me, my daughter. used ; but I have the Lord Jesus Christ, Medicine for the body have I never who with His word alone restoreth all things. ' for that Thou hast been mindful I render thanks to Thee, 0 Lord Jesus Christ, of me, and hast sent Thine apostle to heal my wounds. ' I bless thee, 0 Father of my Lord Jesus Christ, because through Thine apostle Thou hast restored my breasts to me. ' to heal me of every wound, and to restore to me Him who hath vouchsafed the livingGod. Him do I invoke, even my breasts.
'
'

Blessed Agatha, standing in her prison,stretched forth her hands and prayed I thank Thee bethe Lord, saying, " 0 Lord Jesus Chiist, cause my good blaster, the tortures of the executioners ; Thou hast given me strength to overcome and now. Lord, speak the word, that I may depart hence to Thy glory which fadeth not away."
'

unto

'

The taken
'

tomb of John Lascaris (a refugeefrom Constantinople when the inscription : by the Turks) has in Greek
" " "

that does not distiu-b him, T"ascaris lies here in a foreign grave ; but,stranger, that his fatherland rather does he rejoice; yet he is not without sorrow, as a Grecian, of a grave.' will not bestow upon him the freedom

Senensis,we reach the Via dei Serpenti, as occupying the supposed site of interesting where Julius Proculus,returningfrom Alba the Vallis Quirinalis, Longa, encountered the Ghost of Romulus.
VOL.

Passing the great Convent

of S. Bernardino

I.

306
'

Walks
Sed Proculus

in Rome
;
:

Lunaque

Longu veuiebat Julius AIM fulgebat ; nee facis usus erat

Cum subito motu nubes erepuere sinistrae : Retulit ille gradus ; horrueruntque comae. Pulcher, et humano major, trabeaque decorus, in media Romulus visus adesse via.' Ovid,Fast. IL 498.

reach the we Turning to the right down the Via dei Serpenti, in Monti, containing a fountain, and a church Piazza S. Maria dedicated to SS. Sergius and Bacchus, two martyrs who suffered at Rasapha in Syria. under Maximian One side of this piazzais occupied by the Church of S. Maria in of the beggar Labre (canonised Monti, in which is depositeda figure 8th, 1881),dressed in the gown of a mendicant-pilgrim by Leo XIII., December which he wore when the altar is a Over living. in him the Coliseum of to his fellow-beggars picture distributing he had obtained. the alms which His festa is observed here on one April 16th. (At No. 3 Via dei Serpenti, may visit the chamber in which Labre died ; and in the Via dei Crocif eri, the fountain near of Trevi, a chapel containing many he wore he died, the crucifix which
'

of his relics the bed in his bosom, "c.).

"

on

which

Benoit Joseph Labre naquit en 1784 dans le diocese de Boulogne (France) de Dune pietevive et tendre, parents Chretiens et jouissant d'une modeste aisance. ni aux il voulut d'abord se faire religieux; mais sa sant6 ne put resister, regies chez lesquelsil entra successivement. des Chartreux, ni a celles des Trappistes, Jl fut alors solliciU inUrieurement,est-il dit dans la notice sur sa vie,de mener
une

vie de

penitenceet

de charite

au

milieu

du

siecle. Pendant

sept annees,

il

de les sanctuaires de la Vierge les plus veneres parcourut, en pelerin-mendiant, toute a pied,plus de I'Europe ; on a calcule qu'ilfit, cinq mille lieues pendant ces sept annees. En 1777 il revint en Italie, pour ne plus en sortir. II habitait Rome, faisant fois chaque annee le pelerinage de Lorete. II passaitune une seulement grande de charite. mendiait, et faisait des ceuvres partie de ses journees dans les eglises, le portique des eglises, II couchait quelquefois et le plus souvent sous au Colysee derriere la petite chapelle de la cinquieme station du chemin de la croix. L'eglise qu'ilfrequentait le plus etait celle de S. Marie des Monts ; le 16 avril 1783,apr^s il tomba, comme evanoui, sur les marches y avoir prie fort longtemps, en sortant, de l'eglise.On le transporta dans une maison du peristyle voisine,oii il mourut
'

le soir.'
"

Une

Annee

a.

Rome,

of S. Maria in Monti in S. Alfonso Liguorilived in the Convent of Clement XIII. Almost the time opposite this church, till 1885, which appeared to be a cul-de-sac ending in a picture a narrow alley, in reality the approach to the carefully of the Crucifixion,was cealed conConvent of the Farnesiane Nuns, generallyknown as the Sepolte curious convent has been recentlydestroyed. The Vive. No more of communicating with the nuns was only means by rapping on a from a wall on a platform above the roofs of barrel which projected heard from the interior ; and when voice was the houses a muffled the barrel turned if the references of the visitor were satisfactory, disclosed initiated could and which the a key by round, eventually in the interior of the convent. admit themselves to a small chamber Over the door was an inscription, bidding those who entered that the Round chamber them. to leave all worldly thoughts behind
"

308

Walks
S.

in Rome

Crispin and

Rome with S. the example of S. Paul, they laboured with their hands, being by trade shoemakers. And these good saints made food for the poor without fee or reward (for which the angels suppliedthem with as until, denounced Christians, leather), they suffered martyrdom at Soissons, being, after many tortures, beheaded by the sword festival and of S. S. The Crispin (A.D. 300).'^ Crispinianis held October 25th, the anniversary of the battle of Agincourt. on
'

'two holy brothers,who departed from Crispinian, Denis to preach the Gospel in France, where, after

And Crispin Crispian shall ne'er go From this day to the ending of the But we in it shall be remembered.'

by, world.
^

Shakespeare, Henry F.'

the Middle Ages the statues of Posidippus and in the kissed Menander, now galleryof statues at the Vatican, were and worshipped in this church under the impression that they represented saints (see Chap. XV.). found this on site, They were

Throughout

which was once occupiedby the Baths of Olympias,daughter-in-law of Constantino. of the church, Pane The e Perna, is generally strange name dole bread have had in of and ham its to once a origin supposed probably is given at the door of the adjacent convent, but more in an derived from the Prefect Perperna Quadratus, commemorated

inscriptionin the

convent

garden, in which

there

is

mediaeval

The campanile is of 1450. house of c. 1200. the The small neighbouringChurch of S. Lorenzo in Fonte covers there as site of the prisonof S. Laurence, and a fountain is shown he baptized Vicus Patricius and his daughter Lucilla, that in which he miraculously raised from the dead. whom the in the valleybetween Descending the hill below the church reach of the street a spot at the corner we Esquilineand Viminal Servius Tullius was of pre-eminenthistorical interest, as that where Tullia (B.C. and where 535) drove in her chariot over the dead killed, body of her father. The Vicus Urbius by which the old king had
" "

reached

the spot is now representedby the Via Urbana ; the Vicus Cyprius, by which he was about to ascend to the palaceon the hill Cispius,by the Via di S. Maria Maggiore.
du pied de la Servius-TuUius, apres avoir pris le chemin raccourci qui partait le Yicus-Cj-prius Velia et allait du cotd de Carines,atteignit (Via Urbana). ' Parvenu a I'extremit^ du Yicus-Cyprius, le roi fut attaint et assassine par les d'un temple de Diane. gens de Tarqiiinaupres ' de tourner C'est arrives en cet endroit, au moment a droite et de gagner, en le Vicus- Yirbius, le Cispius, ou habitait son remontant pere, que les chevaux s'arreterent ; que Tullie,poussee par I'impatience fie\Teuse de I'ambition, et n'ayantplus que quelquespas a faire pour arriver'au terme, avertie par le cocher de son pere etait la gisant,s'ecria: "Eh bien, pousse le char en que lecadavre avant ! ' Le meiu-tre s'est accompli au pied du Viminal, al'extremite du Vicus-Cyprius, la rue i\ineste. la ou fut depuis le Vicus-Sceleratus,
'
"

Jameson's

Sacred and

Legendary

Art.

S. Pudentiana
"Le

309

ne peut 6tre sur lieu oii la tradition pla^ait cette tragique aventure du et colline cette de mais Viminal, puisque, n^cessaireinent an pied lEsquiliu, et allait tourner le cocher a, droite i rextrcnnte du Vious-Cyprius, parvenu Nibby, la remonter pour gravir I'Esquilin. II ne faut done pas chercher, comme le sommet et M. Dyer, sur Scelt'rate sur une Canina des pentes, ou, comme rue de I'Esquilin, d'ou Ton ne pouvait raonter sur I'Esquilin. son dans la demeurede 'Tullie n'allait pas sur I'Oppius(San-Pietro in Vincoli), C'titait de la demeure mais sur le Cispius,daiis la demeure de son pere. niari, roi. allait prendre possession pour le nouveau royale (lu'elle

' Je n'oublierai jamais le soir oii, apr^s avoir longtemps cherch6 le lieu qui vit la mort de Servius et le crime de Tullie,tout i coup je decouvris clairement que le cocher de la parricide, j'yetais arrive,et m'arretant plein d'horreur,comme dans I'ombre un regard qui, malgr^ moi, y cherchait le cadavre du plongeant dis : " C'etait lii ! '"Ampere, Hist. Mom., ii.153. vieux roi,je me
"

Turning to the left,at the foot Church of S. Pudentiana interesting

find the of the Esquiline, we ^ Ecclesia Pudentiana posed supomnium churches ancient of all the Roman to be the most (' ecclesiarum urbis vetustissima '). Cardinal Wiseman, who took his title from it was the principal this church, considered place of times, being founded on the site of worship in Rome after apostolic the house where S. Paul lodged, a.d. 41 to 50, with the senator is said to who his first converts, and Pudens, whose family were ancient this himself under On have suffered martyrdom Nero.
"
"

place of worship an

oratory was

engraftedby

A.D. Pius I. (c.

145),

in memory of the younger daughterof Pudens, Pudentiana, perhaps is believed to have survived at the request of her sister Prassede, who

churches small till that time. In very early times two ' ' existed here, known and Titulus Pastoris,' Titulus Pudentis as the latter in memory of the brother of Pius I. The church, which has been successively altered by Adrian I. in the eighth century, by Gregory VII., and II., was by Innocent of remains modernised Cardinal Little Caetani in 1597. finally by ancient external work except the graceful brick campanile (c.1130), with arcades of arches side, separated by on triple every open bands of terra-cotta moulding ; and the door adorned with low reliefs of the Lamb bearing a cross, and of S. Prassede and S. with the in which they collected the blood of the vases Pudentiana,
'

two other figures, probably S. Pudens and S. Pastor. The chapel on the left of the tribune, which is regarded as the 'Titulus Pudentis,' has an old mosaic pavement, said to have the house of is to Pudens. Here a bas-relief by Giacomo belonged the keys to S. della Porta, representing our Saviour delivering S. Peter is Peter ; and here is preserved part of the altar at which which and the said to have celebrated mass is rest at (the Lateran),

martyrs, and

used by all the earlypopes till the time of Sylvester. Among let into the walls,is one to a Cornelia, early christian inscriptions of the family of the Pudentiani, with a rude portrait. Opening from the left aisle is the chapel of the Caetani family,
was
1 The Chiu-ch of Pudens, and the early christian buildings of Rome were from named but from their founders, of the site on a saint, or the owners built. they were never

which

310

Walks

in Rome

with tombs of the seventeenth century. Over the altar is a basrelief of the Adoration of the Magi, by Paolo Olivieri. On each side are fine columns of Lumachella marble. Over the entrance from the nave ancient mosaics of the Evangelists and of S. are
"

is a of the martyrs. Beneath gloomy and neglected vault, in which all the sarcophagiand coffins of the dead Caetani are shown by torchlight. In the tribune are magnificent mosaics, ascribed by some to the eighth,by others to the fourth century, and considered by Poussin and afterwards by De Rossi ^ as the best of all ancient christian

Pudentiana

the collecting

blood

mosaics, as they are the oldest, dating from mutilated by Cardinal Enrico Caetani in 1588.
'

A.D.

398.

They

were

In conception and treatment this work is indeed classic : seated on a rich in the centre throne is the Saviour with one arm extended, and in the other holding a book open at the words, Conservator Ecclesiae Pudentianae ; laterally stand SS. Praxedis and Pudentiana with leafy crowns in their hands ; and at a lower level,but more in front, SS. Peter and Paul with eight other male figures, all in the amply-flowing costume in the background of ancient Romans ; while are statelybuildings,one a rotunda, seen, beyond a portico with arcades, various another a parallelogram with a gal)le-headed front, recognisable as a baptistery and basilica, here, we may believe,in authentic copy from the earliest types of the period of the first christian emperors. Above the group and hovering in the of our the head tween air,a large cross, studded with gems, surmounts Saviour, beand the four symbols of the Evangelists,of which has been one entirely, another work in the greater part, sacrificed to some accessories in woodwretched As to actuallyallowed to conceal portions of this most interestingmosaic. that in the head, is principal expression,a severe especially solemnity prevailing, which alone is crowned with the nimbus" other proofs,if but negative, one among of its high antiquity.' Hemans' ^Ancient Christian Art.'
"

and S. Siricius S. Pudentiana and S. Pudens, S. Novatus said this visit to be buried there. Those who are sanctuary every day obtain an indulgence of three thousand years, with remission of a third part of their sins ! Excavations made by Mr. J. H. beneath constructions Parker, in 1865, laid bare some interesting the church Pudens of the house to be those of a part supposed in of the public baths of Novatus, the son of Pudens, which were is in which for some centuries after his time, and a chamber use Pius I. in 145. A.D. supposed to have been the oratory dedicated by
" "

Besides

'Eubulus

greeteth thee, and

first converts and met

Pudens,
for

and

Linus, and

Claudia,and

all the

brethren.'" 2 Timothy iv. 21.

prayers ; here Pudentiana, Praxedes, and Pudens, obtained from Pius I. the institution of a regular parish-assembly (tituhis) provided with a baptismal font ; and here, furniture which had for a long time, were preserved some pieces of household it was been used by S. Peter. The openly tradition deserves attention because accepted at the beginning of the fom-th century.'" Z(a?iciani.
'

Here

the

Timotheus, daughters

son

of

account following legacy of Pastor to the

'

The

of the Christian

family of Pudens
Church
:
"

is received

as

the

and

Pudens went to his Savioiu", leaving his daughters strengthened with chastity, These sold their goods, and distributed the learned in all the divine law.

Roma

Cristiana.

S. Paolo
produce
to the poor, of their

Primo

Eremita

311

the love of Christ, guarding intact and only seeking for glory in vigils, fastings, They desired to have a baptisteryin their honse, to which the blessed prayer. rius not only consented, but with his own hand drew the plan of the fountain. I'lien calling in their slaves, Itoth from town and country, the two virgins gave to those who and urged belief in the faith upon were those lit"erty Christians, who liad not yet leceived it. Jiy the advice of the blessed Pius, the affranchisement was declared, with all the ancient usages, in the oratory founded by Pudens ; then, at the festival of Easter, ninety-sixneophytes were baptized ; so assemblies tliat henceforth were constantly held in the said oratory,which night ami (layresounded with hymns of praise. Many pagans thither to gladlycame thid tlie faith and receive baptism. Meanwhile of what the Emperor Antonine, being informed was taking place, issued an edict commanding all Christians to dwell apart in their own houses, the rest of the people, and that they should neither go to without mixing with I*raxedis the public shops nor to the baths. and Pudentiana then assembled led and housed those whom had to the them. faith, they They nourished them for many days, watching and praying. The blessed bishop Pius himself fre(juentlyvisited us with joy, and ottered the sacrifice for us to the Saviour. Then Pudentiana went I wrapped her in perfumes to God. Her sister and in the oratory. Then, at the end of twenty-eight days, and kept her concealed carried her to the cemetery of Priscilla, we and laid her near her father Pndens. Eleven months He Novatus died in his turn. after, bequeathed his goods to and she then begged of S. Pius to erect a titular [a church] in the baths I'raxedis, ("f Novatus, which were no longer used, and where there was a large and spacious made hall. The liishop the dedication in the name of the blessed virginPi'axedis. In the same place he consecrated a baptistery. But at the end of two declared a great persecution was against the years of them and many of martyrdom. received the crown Praxedis conChristians, cealed of them in her oratory, and nourished with a great number them at once of God. the food of this world and with the Word But the Emperor Antonine, liavinglearnt that these meetings took place in the oratory of Praxedis, caused it to be searched, and many Christians were taken,especiallythe priestSimetrius uul twenty-two others ; and the blessed Praxedis collected their bodies by night, iud buried them in the cemetery of Priscilla, the seventh day of the calends on if June. ITien the virgin of the Saviour, worn out with sorrow, only asked for death. Her tears and her prayers reached to heaven, and fifty-four days after her Itrethren had suft"ered she passed to God ; and I, Pastor, the priest, have buried her body near that of her father Pudens.'" the ]Varratio7i of Pastor. i^/-o";i and
in perseveredstrictly

the flower

and virginity,

'

'

'

the main line of streets to the Quattro Fontane, we the the Church of S. Paolo Primo left, Eremita, rebuilt by pass, on Pius VI. in 1765. The strange-looking palm tree over the door,with the to the desert at the age of 22, lived story of the saint,who, retiring there tillhe was 112, eating nothing but the dates of his tree for bread was daily brought to him by twenty-two years, after which In his last hours S. Anthony came to visit him, and was a raven. his at when two his to dig burial, present lions, companions, came his grave. The sustaining palm tree and the three animals who loved S. Paolo were the altar. In 1884 this over again represented church was converted by the Ministry of Public Instruction into a hall of physiological anatomy ! Farther on the left we pass the Via S. Vitale,occupying part of the site of the Vicus Longus, considered by Dyer to have been the longest street in the ancient city. stood the Temples of Sylvanus and of Fever, with that of Here Pudicitia Plebeia, founded wife c. B.C. 297, by Virginiathe patrician, of Volumnius, when excluded from the patrician of Pudicitia Temple in the Forum Boarium, on account of her plebeian marriage. * At
a raven

Returning by

perched

upon

it and

two

lions

below,

commemorates

312

Walks

in

Rome

its who

altar had

none

but been

plebeian
married
to

matrons

of
one

unimpeachable
husband,
were

chastity,
allowed

and
to

only

sacrifice.'
The

Churcli the interior Via is

of

S.

Vitale,
was

on

the

Viminal,

which

now

stands
I. in It father
A.D.

here
416.

facing
The open Gervasius

Nazionale,
covered
on

founded frescoes of

by

Innocent

with

martyrdoms.
S.

is

seldom
of saint S. of Via

except
and

early
S.
was

Sunday
was

mornings.
the under

Vitale,
and The

Protasius,
buried S. Piazza Maria SS.

martyr
Nero.
to

patron
modern
Corso
"

Kavenna,
Nazionale
across

who leads the

a

alive

from of the

degli Apostoli"
Street, Fontane,

Angeli
and

the

passing

end

contains
to

the
Rome.

American tinuing ConChurch of di the

Church,

gothic
Via

building
delle

by

utterly
on

unsuited the
nuns,

the S. S.

Quattro
to
an

left called

is

the

Dionisio,
Basilio. shrine

belonging
It of
contains

the Ecce

Basilican
Homo

Apostoline
and

of Coraola.

Luca

Giordano,

gaudy

the

virgin

martyr

S.

Dyer,

p.

94.

INDEX

28,29 ; in the Kircherian Museum, i. 54; in Palazzo Torlonia, i. GO;

for art students, i. 32; Academy costume, 35 ; of S. Luke, 110 Accademia, Arcadian, ii. 311 ; annual
in honour of Tasso entertainment at, ii.303 Aedes Castorum, i. 116 Aerarium, the, i. 113 Aesculapius, Temple of,ii.246 ii.255 Affoga I'Asino, of Agger of Servius Tullius, remains

for, principal receptacle in Rome ii. 79 ; in Palazzo ii. 76 ; Christian, Vidoni, ii. 123; in the Vatican Library, ii. 233; in the Etruscan Museum, ii.236 ; in the Egyptian Museum, ii.239 of, i. 23 ; Apollo, obelisk in honour temple of,i.197 ; ii.100 ; Belvedere,
ii. 226

the,ii. 4, 21
Agnese, S.,martyrdom of,ii.129 Agrippa, Baths of, ii.102, 140 i. 278 ; ii. 72 Alban Hills, Albani, Francesco, i. 92, 177 ; ii. 283, family, castle of the, ii.248 i, 302 Albertinelli, Aldobrandini family, burial-place of the, ii. 142 ; palace of the,i. 304 Algardi, i. 53, 59, 88, 130 AUia, the, ii.293 Almo, the, i. 245, 247, 256 ; ii.277 Altieri family, palace of the, i. 68; burial-placeof the, ii.143 Alunno, Niccolo, i. 61 ; ii. 214 Araatrice,Cola deU", i. 92 ; ii.80 Amici, ii. 175 Ammanati, i. 44, 54 ; ii.312 Amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus, ii.
102 307 Alberteschi

Appia, Via, i. 245; beginning of the beauty of,i. 278 Aqua Acetosa, ii.289 Alexandrina, ii.89 ii.83 Alsietina, Anio Novus, ii. 88 Anio Vetus, ii. 83 Argentina, i. 156
BoUicante, ii.89

Castrense,ii. 88 Amphitheatrum Angelico, Fra, ii.143, 145,206,209,234,

307

Angelo, S., castle of, ii. 152; Ponte,

ii.151

Claudia, ii.82, 83, 84, 88 Felice,ii.29, 82 Marcia, remains of, ii.82,83, 85 Tepula, ii. 90 Vergine, i. 48 ; ii.102 Aqueduct, Claudian, i. 244 ; ii.82, 83 Aquinas, S. Thomas, i. 236 ; ii.142, 143 Ara Coeli,i. 94 Arches (Arco)" deir Annunziata, ii.257 of Augustus, i. 126 of Camillus, ii. 147 of Claudius, i. 40, 52, 292 of the Cloaca Maxima, i. 154 of Constantine, i. 141 of Dolabella,i. 218 of Domitian, i. 40
of Drusus, i. 15, 254 of Fabius, i. 125 of Gallienus,ii.48
of of of

Anicli, castle built by the family of the, ii.245 ii.12, 19 ; castle of Ruatica Anlo, river, on the, ii.90 Antemnae, site of, ii.11, 290 relief of, ii.11 ; Antinous, the famous
the most celebrated statues
i.85 of, ; ii. 219, 227, 240

Gordian, i. 40, 58 Gratian, ii. 103 Janus, i. 124, 156

Antiquities, shops

at which to buy, ii. i. 19 ; in the Baths of Diocletian, 313

di S. Lazzaro, ii. 267 of Marcus Aurelius,i. 40, 46, 88 ; ii.103 dei Pantani, i. 109 of Piety, ii.140

314
Arches
of

Index
(Arco)
"

Septimius Severus,i. 114

i. 158

"miniature,

of Sixtus IV., ii.76 of Theodosius,ii.103 of Tiberius,i. 114 ; ii.103 of Titus, i. 137 of Trajau, i. 254 of Verus, i. 254 collections of fragments Architecture, of, i. 55; ii.71, 275 Arco Oscuro, the, ii.289 Arnolphus, work of, ii. 181, 183, 184, 276 Arpino, Cav. d',i. 88, 177, 202 ; ii.30, 59, 80, 169, 257 ; tomb of, ii. 71 i.19 ; listsof subjects studios of, Artists, man, Gerfor,i. 21 ; frescoes by modern i. 35 ; models for,i. 36 ; casino decorated by modern German, ii. 81 ; Festa of the, ii.90 ii.255 Arvales, gi-ove and temple of the, Arx, the, i. 72 Atrium Vestae, i. 118 Atticus, Herodes, romantic story of, i. 272 Auditorium of Maecenas, ii.24, 63

Basilicas (Pagan) of Julia,i. 116 of the Palace of the of Matidia, ii.103

"

i. 187 Caesars,

Porcia, i. 124 Sessorian,ii.88 Basilicas (Christian) S. Agnese fuori le Mura, ii.16 S. Alessandro, ii.21 S. Croce, ii.86
"

Eudoxian, ii.37 S. Giovanni Laterano,ii.66

Liberian, ii. 55 S. Lorenzo, ii.91 S. Maria Maggiore, ii.55 S. Paolo fuori le Mura, ii.274 S. Pietro,ii. 162 ii. 67 Salvatoris, S. Sebastiano, i. 273
S. Stefano, ii.83 Bassano, Giacomo, ii.133 Baths"

Augustine, S., departure from

i. 211 ; tomb
105 of the

Rome

mother

of, of,ii.

Augustus, palace of, i. 203 ; beautiful bust of, ii. 222 ; famous statue of, ii. 230 ; burial of, i. 42, 283 Aurelian, wall of,i. 255 ; Temple of the Sun, built by, i. 302 Avanzo, Jacopo, i. 62 Aventine, the, i. 229

Agrippa, ii.102, 140 Caracalla,i. 247 ; ii.79,115, 228 Constantine, i. 302 Diocletian,ii.26 enervating influence of the,i. 248 of Nero, ii. 103 of Titus, ii. 36 of Trajan, ii.37, 44 Battoni, i. 61 ; ii.27,308 Bazzani, i. 236 Befania, festival of the, ii.134 Giovanni, i. 62, 92, 290 ; ii.285 Bellini, Belvidere of the Villa Medici, i. 32 of the Vatican, ii.241 Benedict, S.,house of,ii. 248 Benzoni, i. 153 Bernini, i. 26, 45, 47, 49, 60, 88, 130, 288; ii. 30, 51, 70, 105, 130, 140, 151, 165,168,173,176, 177,191,200,
of of of of 282

Babuino, the, i. 35 Baccio Bigio, Nanni di,ii.108 Baciccio,i. 293 ; ii.141, 256 Badalocchi, i. 213 Baglioni,ii. 27 Baini, ii.277 i. 97 Bambino, II Santissimo, Bandinelli,Baccio, ii.145 Baptistery of the Lateran, ii.65 Barberini, Piazza, i. 288 ; Palazzo, i. 288 ; bees of the,i.37, 289 ; ii. 176 ; Cardinal,ii. 2 ; Casino of the, ii.4 ; garden, i. 292 Barcaccia, the, i. 37 Barigioni,Filippo,ii.179 Baroccio, ii.110,111,142,146,215,241,
306

Barracks
81

of the Equites

ii. Singiilares,
; ii.306

Bartolommeo,

Fra, i. 52
"

Basilicas (Pagan)

of Aemilius Paulus, i. 124 of Constantine, i. 127

Bianchi, P., ii.27 Bocca della Verity i. 159 Bologna, Pellegrinoda, ii.133 Bonfigli, Benedetto, i, 88 Bonifazio,ii.209, 285 Borghese, Camillo, tomb of,ii. 59 Chapel, ii.58 Palace, i. 43 Palazzetto,i. 44 Piazza, i. 44 ii.283 Picture gallery, Princess,funeral of, ii.60 Villa,ii.279 Borgia, family burial-placeof,ii.66 Caesar, ii.42, 296 Coll egioRomanofounded S. Francis, of,i. 68 by, i. 54 ; death chamber Lucrezia, ii. 42, 235 VI., ii, Rodrigo, Pope Alexander 112,131, 181, 182, 235 Borgo, the, ii. 157 Borgognone, i. 293 Borromeo, S, Carlo,i. 68 ; ii. 45

31G

Index
Churches of" S. Andrea

Catacombs" of S. Sebastiano, i. 274 of SS. Thraso and Saturninus, ii.

12

of S. Valentine, ii.288 Cathedra Petri,ii. 175 Catherine, S., of Siena, i. 135 ; ii.
144

Cavallini, Pietro,ii. 165, 172,259, 261 Cavalluccio,ii.43 Cave of Cacus, i. 229 Cecilia, S., burial-place of, i, 262; story of,ii.250 Cellini, Benvenuto, ii.156, 186
Cemeteries" of the Cappuccini, ii.2 oldest Christian, ii.187 S. Generosa,ii.255 German, ii. 187

Monte Cavallo, i. 293 della Valle, ii.122 S. Angelo in Pescheria,i. 168 S, Antonio, ii. 82 S. Antonio Abbate, ii.52 ii.104 dei Portoghesi, S. Antonio S. Apollinare, ii.106 SS. Apostoli,i. 62 Ara Coeli,i. 94 S. Atanasio, i. 35 S. Balbina, i. 244 S. Bartolommeo, ii.245 S. Basiho, i. 239 ii.248 S. Benedetto a Piscinuola,
a

S.

Bernardo,

ii. 31

Jewish, i. 233 of S. Lorenzo, ii.96 Protestant, ii.270 old Protestant,ii. 268 Cenci, the tragedy of the, i. 175-176 ; so-called portraitsof Lucrezia and Beatrice,i. 291 ; grave of Beatrice,
ii.313

S. Bibiana, ii.50 ii.115 S. Brigitta, S. Buonaventura, i. 140 of the Caetani, i. 278

S.

Caio, ii. 30

ii. 261 S. Calisto, I Cappuccini, ii.1 La Caravita,i. 53 ii.122 S. Carlo a Catinari,

Centocellae,ii. 89 Cervaletto,ii.90 Cervara, ii.90 Chapels" of S. Andrew, i. 214 of S. Andrew's Head, ii.290, 316 dei Falegnami, ii.261 of S. Anna of S. Barbara, ii.215 Borghese, ii. 58 Corsini,ii.69 of the Farewell, ii.271 in Oleo, i. 253 S. Giovanni Holy Cross, ii. 295
of S. Lorenzo
206 in the

Vatican, ii.

of the Orto del Paradiso, ii.45

in Palazzo Altemps, ii.106 Paoline, ii. 192 of the Popes, i. 261

ii. 4 of the Pregatrici, i. 224 S. Silvestro, i. 214 of S. Silvia,

ii. 192 Sistine, of S. Sisto, i. 251 Chapter House Christina, Queen of Sweden, i. 27 173, 304, 305

Corso, i. 43 Quattro Fontane, i. 293 S. Catarina de' Funari, i. 178 di Siena,i. 303 ; ii.149 S. Cecilia, ii.250 S. Celso in Banchi, ii.149 S. Cesareo, i. 252 S. Claudio, i. 47 S. Clemente, i. 225 S. Cosimato, ii. 262 i. 130 SS. Cosmo e Damiano, S. Costanza, ii. 17 S. Crisogono, ii. 257 S. Crispino a Ponte, ii.249 S. Croce in Gerusalemme, ii. 86 di Monte Mario, ii.295 i. 51 I Crociferi, S. Dionisio,i. 312 i. 303 e Sisto, SS. Domenico Domine quo Vadis, i. 256 S. Dorotea, ii. 262 S. Eusebio, ii. 50 S. Eustachio, ii. 135
in
a

S. Francesca S. Francesco
; ii.

Romana,

i. 133 di Paola, ii.42 a Ripa, ii.256

II Gesii,i. 67
Gesu e Maria, i. 41 in Aino, ii.112 S. Giacomo

i, 20 most worth seeing, Churches of Churches S. Adriano, i. 130 S. Agata dei Goti, i. 304 S. Agnese, ii.128 fuori le Mura, ii.16 S. Agostino, ii. 104 S. Alessio,i. 237
"

American, i. 312 S. Anastasia, i. 153 S. Andrea, ii. 290

delle
i. 47 Fratte,

i. 41 degliIncurabili, ii.158 Scossa Cavalli, degliSpagnuoli,ii.131 S. Giorgio in Velabro, i. 157 S, Giovanni Decollato,i. 163 ii. 150 dei Fiorentini, alia Lungara, ii.303 e Paolo, i. 216 a Porta Latina, i. 253 della Carita,ii. 115 S. Girolamo i. 40 degli Schiavoni,

Index
Churches
S.

317
of"

of"

Churches

Giuseppe dei Falegnami, i. 104 Greek, i. 35 S. Ciregorio, i. 211 S. Ipnazio, i. 53 S. Isidoro,ii.4 S. Ivo, ii.134 ii.118 SS. Lorenzo e Damaso, in Fonte, i. 308 S. Lorenzo Miranda, i. 130 fuori le Mura, ii. 91 Pane e Perna, i. 307 del Gonfalone, ii.112
in in

S. Onofrio, ii.300 S. Onofrio in Campagna, ii.296 S. Pancrazio, ii.314 S. Pantakone, ii. 125 S. Paolo fuori le Mura, ii.274

primo Eremita, i. 311 alia Regola, ii. 265 alle Tre Fontane, ii. 272

Lucina, i. 45

Perpetua Adoratrice
i. 294

del Divin

cramento, Sa-

S. Pietro,ii.162 S, Pietro in Carcere, i. 101

e

S. Lucia

Marcellino, ii. 81

S. Luigi dei Frances!, ii.132 S. Marcello, i. 54 S. Marco, i. 07 S. Maria degli Angeli,ii. 27 deir Aninia, ii. 107

in Montorio, ii.312 in Vincoli, ii.37 S. Prassede, ii. 45 S. Prisca,i. 241 Protestant, i. 35, 312 S. Pudenziana, i. 309 SS. Quattro Incoronati, i. 224 SS. Rocco e Martino, i. 39 S. Ruflna, ii. 258
S. S.

in Aquiro, i. 50

Aventina, i. 239 in Campitelli,1. 178 in Cappella, ii.249 della Concezione, ii.1 in Cosmedin, i. 158 in Doraenica, i. 219 Egyptiaca, i. 160 delle Fornace, ii. 316 della Gloria,i. 281 in Grotta Pinta, ii.122 i. 130 Liberatrice, di Loreto, i. 107 Maggiore, ii.55 ad Martyres, ii.135 sopra Minerva, ii.140 di Monserrato, ii.112 in Monti, i. 306
in Monticelli, ii.120 della Morte, ii. 116 della Navicella,i. 219

Sabba, i. 243 Sabina, i. 235

in in

S. Salvatore

Lauro, ii.148 Thermis, ii.134

ii.188 Torrione,

in II Santissimo

Redentore, ii.48 S. Sebastiano, i. 273 SS. Sergiusand Bacchus, i. 306 S, Silvestro in Capite, i. 43 a Monte Cavallo,i.302 S. Sisto,i. 251 S. Spiritodei Napolitani, ii.112
S.

Stefano,ii. 187
delle Carrozze, i. 160
a Piscinuola,ii. 112 Rotondo, i. 220 del Trullo,i. 49

S.
S. S.

S.
S.

S.

del Orto, ii.256 della Pace, ii. 108 della Pieta,ii.140 Pallara,i. 139 della Pietil in Canipo Santo, ii. 187 del Popolo, i. 24 del Rosario, ii.295 Scala Coeli. ii. 272 del Sole,i. 160 Traspontina, ii.157 in Trastevere, ii.258 in Trivia,i. 51 ii.110 in Vallicella, in Via, i. 48 in Via Lata, 1. 55 di Vienna, i. 107 della Vittoria,ii.30 Marta, ii. 187 Martina, i. 129 Martino al Monte, ii.43 Michele in Sjissia, ii.188 Nereo ed Achilleo,i. 250 in t'aixere,i. 164 Niccolo da Tolentino, ii.4

S. Susanna, ii. 30 S. Teodoro, i. 152 S. Teresa, ii.31 S. Tommaso dei Cenci, i. 175 in Formis, i. 218 ii.113 degli Inglesi, S. Trinity de' Monti, i. 34 ii. 120 dei Pellegrini, S. Urbano, i. 271 S. Vincenzo ed Anastasio, ii.270 S. Vitale,i. 312 S. Vito, ii.48 Ciampelli,Agostino, ii.51

"

Cignani, ii. 307, 308 ii. 59, 150 Cigoli, Ciniabue, ii.234 Circolo degliArtisti, i. 85 Circus Agonsilis, ii.130 of Caligula,ii.189
of Flaminius,i. 177 ; ii.10 of Maxentius, i. 277 Maximus, i. 154 of Nero, ii.189 Cispius,the, ii.33 Civitas Leoniana,ii.157

318
Clivus Capitolinus,i. 112 Martis, i. 255
i. 231 Publicius,

Index
of" Convent S. Cecilia, ii.250 the Certosa, ii.28 S. Eusebio, iL 50 S. Francesca Romana, i. 136 S. Francesco di Paola, ii.44 S. Filippo Neri, ii.44 the Gesu, i. 67 SS. Giovanni e Paolo,i. 218 S. Gregorio, i. 215 S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna, i. 307 ii. 44 S. Lucia in Selci, S. Maria degliAngeli, ii.28 S. Maria della Pace, ii.110 S. Maria del Popolo. i. 27 S. Maria in Monti, i. 307 S. Maria in Vallicella, ii.110 the Maronites, ii.42 the Minerva, ii. 147 the Monache Polacche, ii.49 the Novitiate of the Order of Jesus,
i. 294

Victoriae,i. 194, 205 of the Circus Maximus, Maxima, i. 156 Cloister of the Lateran, ii. 71
Cloaca
of S.

i. 162

Lorenzo, ii. 96

of S. Maria della Pace, ii.110 of the Minerva, ii. 147 of S. Onofrio, ii. 301 of S. Paolo, ii. 275 Clovio,Giulio,ii.234 ; tomb of,ii.38 Coelian Hill,i. 209 Coliseum, the, i. 142 ii.90 Collatia, Colle,Le, ii.303 Raffaello da, ii.206

CollegesEnglish, ii. 113 Propaganda, i. 37 Romano, i. 54 Sapienza, ii.134 Colossus of Nero, i. 137
Colonna (Column)" of Antoninus Pius, i. 48 ; ii.240 ii. 101 Bellica, Duilia,i. 125

Lactaria,i. 165 Maenia, i. 113 Marco Aurelio, i. 48

of the Piazza di Spagna, i. 37 of Phocas, i. 122 Santa, ii.46, 172

Trajano, i. 106 della Vergine, ii.54

Columbarium
of the of the

Arruntia,ii.52

of Augustus freedmen i. 256 and Livia, of the freedmen of Oc-

tavia,i. 253
of the Household of

Caesar, i. 254 ii.52 of the Statilii, of the Vigna Codini,i.

ii.82 Vitalis, Comitium, of, i. 54; Consalvi, Cardinal, tomb monument of,ii. 139 del, ii.133 Conte, Giacomo Convent
S. 254 of T. C. the, i. 112

of the Nunziatina,i.107 S. Onofrio, ii. 302 ii. 44 the Oratorians, S. Pancrazio,ii.314 S. Paolo, ii.275 ii.294 Perpetue Adolatrici, S. Pietro in Vincoli,ii.42 the Poor Clares,ii.262 the Pregatrici, ii.4 i. 225 Quattro Incoronati, S. Sabina, i. 237 Sacre Coeur, i. 34 Sepolte Vive, i. 306 i. 46 S. Silvestro, i. 251 S. Sisto, S. Tommaso in Formis, i. 218 Tor di Specchi, i. 179 Via Vittoria,i. 40 Coppi, Jacopo, ii.38 Cordieri, Niccolo, i.214,215 ; ii.67,142 Cordonnata, La, i.74
i. 35 Cornelius,

Correggio, ii. 216 Corso, the, i. 23, 40

Corso Vittorio

Emanuele,

ii. 110,112,

118, 122, 123

Cortona, Pietro da, i. 55, 92, 129-130, 289 ; ii. 2, 51, 108, 111, 122, 131,
148, 173

of"

Cosmati, the, i. 95, 97, 158, 219, 243,

244 ; ii.61, 71, 76,95, 143 Costanzi,P., ii. 27 Cranach, Lucas, ii. 286 Credi, Lorenzo di,i. 91 ; ii.286 Crescenza, ii. 292 Crimera, the, ii. 292 ii.172 Cristoferi, Crivelli, Carlo,i. 67 ; ii.80 Croce, Baldassare, ii. 31 Cross of Henry IV., ii.55 Crypt of the Glabriones,ii.15 Crypto-Porticus,the, i. 186 Curia, the, i. 124

Agata in Suburra, i. 304

i. 239 S. Alessio, S. Antonio Abbate, li.54 i. 63 SS. Apostoli, Ara Coeli,i. 100 ii. 245 S. Bartolommeo,
of

Benedictines, i. 241

Senensis,i. 305 S. Bernardo Buon Pastore, ii. 303

i. 140 S. Buonaventura, ii. 2 the Cappuccini, Cappuccine alle Sette Sale,ii.37 S. Caterina, i. 303

Index

319

Dalniatica

cU S.

Leone, ii.186

Daiuasus, Pope, inscriptions of, i. 2C1, 262, 263, 268, 275

Forli,Melozzo da, i. 299 ; ii.186, 214 of Augustus, i. 108 Forum Boarium, i. 155 of Julius Caesar, i. 110 of Nerva, i. 109 i. Ill Romanum,
of Trajan,i. 105 i, 109 Transitorium, Ulpian,i. 105

David, i. 293
Diocletian, Baths

of,ii.26 Diribitorium, ii. 102 Dt"lce, Carlo, ii.286, 306,308 Donienichino, i. 91, 177,214,|290,301 ; ii. 2, 27, 30, 39, 42, 114, 115, 122, 132, 210, 260, 284, 301 Dominic, S., residence at Rome of,i.
233, 236

Laterana, ii.72 Pinciana, ii.9 Vectiliana,i. 218 Donatello, i. 97 Doria, bust of Andrew, i. 60 ; Palazzo, i. 58 ; Villa,ii. 315 Dorotea, S.,legend of,ii.262 Dosso Dossi, i. 59 ; ii.284 Dilrer, Albert, works of, i. 290 ; ii.307
Donius

E.

benediction,the, ii.161 Egeria, fountain of, i. 219, 247 ; grotto and gi-ove of, i. 271 ii. 239 Egyptian Museum, Emmanuel, King Victor,death of, i. 299 ; grave of,ii. 13i) Emporium, the, ii.267 English Quarter, i. 37 Es(iuiline, the, ii. 32 Etruscan jewellery,i. 52 ; Museum, ii.
Easter
238

Fountains" of the Acqua Acetosa,ii.290 the Babuino, i. 35 of the Barcaccia, i. 37 of the Capitol, i. 76 Egeria, i. 247 i. 271 Egeria (so-called), of S. Maria in Cosmedin, i. 160 of the Mascherone, ii.115 Meta Sudans, i. 141 Monte Cavallo,i. 296 Paolina, ii.313 of Piazza Farnese, ii. 115 of Piazza Xavona, ii.130 of Piazza Pia, ii. 157 of Ponte Sisto,ii.264 of the Tartarughe, i. 177 of the Terme, ii.29 of Trevi, i. 50 of the Tritone, i. 288 of the Via Lata, i. 58 ii.94, 202 Fracassini, Francia, Francesco,i. 92, 290 ; ii. 209,

283,284 Francis,S.,relics of,ii.256 Fuga, ii.304 Roman, ii.96 Funerals,

G. ii.148, 277 Gagliardi, Galilei, Alessandro,ii.69, 73

Filippo,i. 97 Evangelisti,

Galileo,trial of, ii.147 Garbo, Raffellino del,ii.143 Fabii,destruction of the, ii.292 Fabriano, Gentile da, i. 62 Fabris,de, ii.165, 173, 301 Faenza, Marco da, ii. 207 Falcone, Ristauratore del, ii.134
Farnese, Palazzo, ii.115
Gardens of Adonis, i. 139 Barberini,i. 292 Colonna, 1. 301 Corsini,ii.308 S. Giovanni e Paolo,i. 217 Government, i. 250
"

Farnesina,the, 309 Fasti Consul ares, the, i.88 Faustulus, hut of,i. 102 Ferrari,Fiancesco, i. 213 Ferrata, Ercole, ii. 57, 129, 177 ii. 90 Festa degli Artisti, Fiaminyo, Arrigo, 1. 107 ; ii.27 Fiesole,Fra Angelico. See Angelico Minoda, ii.57,61,146, 184 Antonio, ii.68, 165 lllarete, Filomena, S.,ii.14 Fiori,Mario de, i. 61 di, i. 96 ; ii. 210 Foligno, Madonna Fontana, i. 62 ; ii.38,63, 160, 173

Mattei, i. 219 Medici, i. 32 of S. Ouofrio, ii.303

of the Pincio. i. 29 della Pigna, ii. 240 i. 239 Priorato, Quirinal,i. 300 i. 300 Rospigliosi, of Sallust, ii.4 of S. Silvia, i. 214 of the Vatican,ii.240 Volkonski,ii.82 i. 60, 92 ; ii.209, 284 Garofalo, Geminiano, ii.65

320
ii. 149 Genga, Girolamo della, Germale, the, i. 185 Ghetto, the, i. 169

Index
of" Houses Mark Antony, i. 208 i. 287 Martial, Octavius and Atia,i. 18 i. 223 Palestrina, Pedo Albinovanus,ii.35

Ghirlandajo, Domenico,

ii.193

Giacometti, ii.74 Pierre,tomb of,i. 54 Gilles, Giordano, Luca, i. 178, 312 ; ii.307 Giorgione, i. 61 ; ii.308 Giottino,ii.234 Giotto, ii.2, 70, 142,165,187,234 Giovanni di S. Giovanni, i. 224 Gladiator, the dying,i. 86 Gozzoli,Benozzo, ii.80, 141, 209
Gradus Pulchri i. 200 Littoris,

Pilate,i. 161

Pompey,
Jf.

ii.33

Pomponius

i. 287 Atticus, Poussin,i. 35 ii.34 Propertius, ii.149, 150 Raffaelle, i. 35 Regina di Polonia, Rienzi, i. 161 Rossini,i. 35 Sir W. Scott,i. 47 S. i. 212 Silvia,

Graecostasis,i. 113 Gros, Le, i. 294 Grottoes of Cervara, ii.90 Guercino, i. 91, 92; ii. 7, 30, 39, 105, 209, 214, 283, 300

Guerini,i. 129
Guido. See Keni

Spm-ius Cassius,ii.33 Maelius, i. 180 Vedius PoUio, ii.34

i. 118 Vestals, ii.149 Violinista, ii.34 Virgil, the Zuccari, i. 35 Hut of Faustulus, i. 192 the the

H.

Hermitage
i. 218

of S, Giovanni

de

Matha,

Holbein, i. 59, 62 ; ii.307 Horti Lamiani, ii. 51

Horrea ii. 29 Ecclesiae, Galbana, ii.267
"

Imola, Innocenzo

Hospitals of

Foundling,ii. 159
Gesu Bambino, ii.303 S. Galla, i. 163
S.

da, i. 62 Inquisition, the, ii.187 Intermontium, the, i. 73 Isola Tiberina, ii.244

J.

Gallicano,ii.258
Jewish

Calabita. ii.246 S. Giovanni S. Michele, ii.254 S. Rocco, i. 40 S. Spii-ito, ii,158 Surgical,i. 41 Houdon, ii.27 of Houses i. 241 Aquila and Priscilla, Augustus, i. 204 ii.142 Benvenuto Cellini, Bernini, i. 45 Cicero,i. 206 S. Ciriaca, i. 220 Claude Lorraine, i. 35
"

Janiculan, the, ii.299 cemetery, i. 233

synagogue, i.173

tomb of,i. 47 Kauffmann, Angelica, Keats, death of,i. 36 ; grave of,ii.268 Kircherian Museum, i. 54

Clodius,i. 206
i. 288 the Cornelii,

Crassus, i. 206 Domenichino, ii.44 Drusus and Antonia, i. 194 Ennius, i. 232 i. 288 the Flavii, the Fornarina, ii. 248 Giulio Romano, i. 66 John Gibson, i. 35 C. Gracchus, i. 205 Hortensius, i. 203 Keats, i. 36 Lucrezia Borgia, ii.42 Maecenas, ii. 34

Labre, tomb of the Venerable,i. 306 Lake, Curtian, i. 121 of Jutuma, i. 117 Orphei, ii. 35
Servilius. i. 115

Landini, i. 177 Lanfranco, i. 177 ; ii.69, 122, 150, 307 Lante family, burial-placeof the, ii. 146 ; villa of the, ii.314 Laocoon, the, ii.36, 224 the, ii.66 Latei-an, Lauretti,i. 88 Lawrence, ii.80 Leonine city,the, ii. 157 Lettesoli, G. de',ii.243

Index
Library" Barberini,i.289 Casanatentis,ii.147 Chigi,i. 48 of the Colletfio Romano, i. 54 ii.308 Corsini, of the Vatican, ii.235 Pirro,ii.131, 241 Ligorio, i. 62 ; ii.80, 143 Lippi,Fil., Locanda del Orso, ii.148 Loggie,the, ii.207 Lombards, national church of the, i.
43

321
192,193-198,228,234,261,288,304,
312

Aureum, i. 114 ii. 247 Mills,floating, Ministerio delle Finanze, ii.22 della Guerra, ii.31 Miserere, the, ii.199 Mithraeum, i. 228 ; ii.44 Modem Rome, ii.22, 270 Monastery of S. Anna, ii.261 the Chiesa Nuova, ii.Ill S. Croce, ii.88
Milliarium S. Eusebio,ii.50 the Lateran, ii.71 S. Prassede, ii.48 Mons Aureus, ii.299 Querquetulanus, i. 209 Sacer,ii.20 Monte di Pietc'i, ii.120 Monte Caprino, i. 74, 94 Cavallo,i. 295 Giordano, ii.110 Del Grano, ii.82 Mario, ii.295 ii.288 Parioli, Rotondo, ii.22 Sacro, ii.20 i.70 Tarpeia,

Longhi, Luca, i. 62 Lorenzo, S.,i. 13,45,186, 187, 220, 307,

308 ; ii.91 i. 26 Lorenzetto, Claude, i. 35,59, 290 ; ii.289 Lorraine, Lottery, Roman, i. 38 Lotto,Lorenzo, i. 61, 301 ; ii.285

Loyola, Ignatius,grave of, L 67 of,i. 67 ; ii.112

dence ; resi-

Lunghezza,ii. 90 Lunghi, Martino, i. 43 ; iL 106,256 the, i. 193 Lupercal, Luther,residence in Rome of,i. 27
M.

Macao, ii,22 Macellum Magnum, i. 220 Mademo, Carlo,i. 41, 48, 177,214,288 ; ii. 30, 109,122,150, 164 Maderno, Stefano,ii.251 ii.255 -Magliana, Magus, Simon, i. 135 Magnanopoli, i. 303 tomb of,i. 153 Mai, Cardinal, Maini, ii.129 Malaria, i. 8 Maldacchini, Olympia, i. 40, 58; ii. 131,316 Mamertine Prisons,i. 101 Mancini, ii. 177 Mantegna, Andrea, ii.209 Maranna, the, i.247 Maratta, Carlo, i. 25, 43, 61, 67, 293 ; ii.27, 28, 65, 143,307 Marforio, i. 66,78 Marmoratimi, the, ii.267 Guillaume Marseilles, de, i. 24 Masaccio, i. 226,290 Matsys, Quentin, i. 60 of Augustus, i. 41 ^lausoleum Hadrian, ii.152 Me i. 299 ; ii. 18(i, Melozzo da Forli, 214 emmi, Simone, ii. 181
ngs, i. 290 ; ii.10, 50, 234 tomb of,ii.188 ntana, ii. 21

Montelupo, Raffaello da,ii.41,145,312 Morandi, ii. 110 Morelli,ii.125 Moretto da Brescia,ii.216 Morra, game of,ii.248 Mosaics, manufactory of,ii.216 Mosca, Simone, ii.42, 312 da, ii.80 Murano, Antonio Murillo, ii.209, 308 Muro-Torto, i. 29
Museum
of"

Borgia, i. 38 the Capitol,i. 78 Chiaramonti, ii. 229 of the Lateran, ii.79 Christian, Egyptian, ii.239 Etruscan, ii.236 Gessi,ii.270 Kircherian, i. 54 Pio-Clementino, ii.216 delle Terme, ii. 28
Teverino, ii. 28

Torlonia,ii. 304 Music, church, ii.108 Muziano, i. 61 ; ii.27,110,141,174,186

Naumachia, the, ii.132 Navicella, the, i. 218 Nebbia, Cesare, ii.31, 60, 110 ii. 110, 111, 120, 124, Neri, S. Filipp"i,
303

essina,Antonello da, ii.287 eta Sudans, i. 141 Mi( i. 32,74,7t), 87,203,220 ; ichelangelo, Ii.28,39,lis, 134,144,1T2,176,186^ VOL. I.

Nero, ghost of. i. 24 ; tomb of, i. 24 palace of,ii.35 ; tower of, i. 303
baths

; ;

of,ii.103,133

322
Nozze

Index
the, ii.236 Aldobrandini,
de la,i. 293 ; ii.2, 308 i. 271 ; ii.297 Palaces

(Palazzi)
"

Nuit, Gerard

Correa, i. 41
ii.304 Corsini, i. 177 Costaguti, of Domitian, i. 190

Nymphaeum,

Obelisk
the

of"

Lateran, ii.65 S. Maria Maggiore, ii.63 the Monte Cavallo,i. 295 i. 49 Citorio, the Pantheon, ii.140 ii. 159 S. Peter's,
the Piazza the the

Doria, i. 58 ii.116 Falconieri, Farnese, ii.115 Farnesina, ii.309

Fiano, i. 45
Field,ii. 63
ii.110 Gabrielli,

Minerva, ii.140 Navona, ii.130 i. 29 Pincio, Piazza del Popolo,i. 23 della Rotonda, ii. 140

Trinita de' Monti, i. 33 the Villa Mattel,i. 219 ii.23 of the railwaystation,
ii. 144 Obicci,

Observatory of the CollegioRomano,

i. 55

Paolo, i. 134, 310 Olivieri, Oppius, the, ii.33 Orizonte, i. 300 del,ii.148 Orso, Locanda Orti Farnesiani,i. 182 Orto del Paradiso, ii.45 Osa, Castello del,ii.90 Ostia,ii. 278 Overbeck, i. 35 ; ii.31
Ovilia, ii. 101
P.

; ii. 122

Galitzin,ii.103 i. 159 of Gelasius II., Giraud, ii. 158 ii.134 Giustiniani, Governo Vecchio, ii.110 of Hadrian, i. 204 ii.131 Lancellotti, the Lateran, ancient,ii.73 the Lateran, modem, ii.76 Linote, ii. 118 Madama, ii.132 Mancini, ii.103 Margana, i. 179
Massimo
alle i. 177

Colonne,ii.123

Mattel, i. 49 Monte Citorio, Moroni, ii. 261

i. 64 Muti-Pappazzuri,

Paedagogium,
Palaces

i. 201

(Palazzi)" Albani, i. 292 Aldobrandini, i. 304 Altemps, ii. 106 i. 68 Altieri, ii.149 Altoviti, Antonelli,i. 302 of Augustus, i. 154, 203 Barberini, i. 288 Bernini, i. 45 Bonaparte, i. 65 Borghese, i. 43 Braschi, ii. 125 i. 181 Caesar's, i. Caetani, 178 i. 93 Caffarelli, of Caligula,i. 194 ii. 117 Cancelleria, ii.103 Cardelli, Cenci, i. 175 Cesareo, i. 252 Chigi,i. 48 Cini,i. 50 Colonna, i. 61 the Conservators, i. 87 Consulta, i. 296

Nero, ii.35 Odescalchi,i. 60 Orsini,i. 167 Palombara, i. 46 Pamflli,ii.131 Parisani,i. 48 ii.134 Patrizi, Piombino, ii,5 Poll,i. 51 Ponziani, ii.249 Pio, ii. 122 Quirinale,i. 296 Regina di Polonia, i. 35 Ricci,ii.112 i. 300 Rospigliosi, Ruspoli, i. 45 Sacchetti,ii. 116 i. 60 Salviati, Salviati alia Lungara, ii.303
of
*

Santa Santo

Croce, ii. 121 ii.187 Uffizio, i. 166 Savelli,

i. 64 Savorelli, Sciarra,i. 50 del Senato, ii.132 of the Senator, i. 76 Spada, ii. 118 di Spagna, i. 37 Teodoli, i. 45 of Tiberius,i. 194 Torlonia, i. 65 Valdambrini, i. 43 Valentini,i. 61 of the Vatican, ii. 189 Venezia; 1. 65

324
Porta"

Index

Flaminia, ii.279 Fontinalis,i. 303

Q. Quattro Fontane, 1. 292 Quay of the Ripetta,i. 39 the, i. 286 Quirinal,

Furba, ii.82
S. Giovanni, ii.72, 82

Latina, i. 252 Labicana, ii. 88 S. Lorenzo, ii.90

Maggiore, ii.88
Metronia, i. 245 Mugonia, i. 182 Nomentana, ii.15
ii.267 Ostiensis, ii.314 S. Pancrazio, S. Paolo, ii.267

R.

Raggi,Antonio, ii.129
Railway station,ii. 23 Rainaldi, Carlo, ii. 131, 146 Girolamo, ii. 128 i. 26, 52, 60, 91, 92, 214, 290 ; Raffaelle, ii. 69, 105, 109, 202-206, 209-214, 284,286,287,294,309-310,312 Raffaellino del Garbo, ii. 143 Ratisbonne, conversion of M., i. 47 Regia of Julius Caesar, i. 199 Reni, Guido, i. 45, 52, 59, 92,214, 291, 300 ; ii. 1, 30, 59, 69, 115,122, 133, 215, 216, 307 ii.27 Ricciolini, Rienzi, i. 42, 74,161 ; iL 65 Rinaldi, i. 41 Ripa Grande, ii.254 Ripetta, the, i. 38 Ripresa dei Barberi, i. 66 Romana, S. Francesca,i. 84, 97, 133, 179 ; ii. 91, 249,254, 271 Roma Quadrata, i. 184 Vecchia, i. 281 Romanelli, i. 91, 92 ; ii.27, 179 Romano, Giulio,i. 100, 219 ; ii. 11, 48, 80, 107, 186, 202, 205, 206, 207, 208, 213, 292, 294, 314 Paolo, i. 239 ; ii.151, 260 Rosa, Salvator,ii.27, 150,306, .308 Cosimo, ii.193 Rosselli, Rossi,Giov. Antonio, i. 65, 88 ; ii. 175,
177

Pia, ii. 15 Pinciana, ii.9 del Popolo, ii.279 Portese, ii.254 Praenestina, ii. 88 Eandusculana, i. 243 Ratumena, i. 66 ; ii.291 Romanula, i. 199 Salaria,ii. 8 i. 287 Salutaris, Sanqualis, i. 51, 293 S. Sebastiano, i. 255 Settimiana, ii.262, 311 ii. 300 S. Spirito, Trigemina, ii.266
Viridaiia, ii.297
Portico
of Dii

Consentes, i. 113 Livia, i. 167 Metellus, i. 167 ad Nationes, ii. 102 Octavia, i. 167 ; ii.102 Pallas Minerva, i. 109

Posi, i. 26 General, i. 18, 47 Post-Office, Poussin,Caspar, ii.43, 306 Nicholas, i. 291 ; tomb
45

of, i.

i. 53, 67 ; ii.60 Pozzi,Giobattista, Prata Quinctia, i. 39 Prati del Popolo Romano, ii.270

Prefettura,the, i. 61 Presepio, origin of the, i. 97 Pretorian Camp, ii. 22 Prima Porta, ii. 293 Printing Press of Pannartz Schweinheim, ii. 124 Priorato,the, i. 239

Mario, ii. 281 Rostra, i. 113, 115 Rubens, i. 60, 91 ; ii.307 Rucconi, Camillo, ii.174
Ruins most

worth

i. 20 seeing,

Rustica, ii.90
and S.

Prisons" in S. Angelo, ii.156 Carceri Nuove, ii.116 Mamertine, i. 101 ii. 29 for Women, i. 37 the, Propaganda, Protestant Cemeteries, ii.268, 270

Chm-ches,

i. 17, 35, 312

Pseudo-Aventine,i. 243
Pyramid of Caius Cestius,ii.267 Romulus, i. 152 ii.157 Scipio Africanus,

Sabbatini, ii.192, 207 Sacchi, Andrea, i. 290; ii. 4, 65, 71, 122, 146, 215, 216 Salita di S. Onofrio, ii.300 Salvi,Niccolo, i. 50 ii.108, 193 Salviati, Sangallo,Antonio di, ii. 56, 145, 164, 192, 300 Giuliano di,i. 107 ; ii.107 Sansovino, Jacopo di, ii.105 Santi,Tito,ii.150 Sanzio, Giovanni, i. 62 ; ii.80 Rapienza, the, ii.134

Index
Saraceni,Carlo, ii. 103, 307 Sarto, Andrea del, ii.291, 306 i. 60, 335 ; ii.214, 307 Sassoferrato, Saxa Kubra, ii. 292 Scala Regia, ii.191 Santa, ii. 74 Scalae Caci, i. 192,200 Suburra, ii.34 Subleyras, i. 92 ; ii.27 Sulla,tomb of,i. 23 the,i. 123 Suovetaurilia, i.61 Sustermanns,

325

Genioniae,i. 101
Scannabecchi.

the, ii.293 Schadow, i. 35 Schnorr, Paul, ii.207

Schools
"

Tabernae

i. 124 Argentariae,

i. 173 Castigliana, Catilana,i. 173 Franco rum, ii.188 of Music, ii. 81 Nuova, i. 173 Saxonuni, ii.188 i. 173 Siciliana, del Tempio, i. 173 of Xanthus, i. 113 tomb of the, i. 253 ; ii.228 Scipios, Sculptors,studios of, i. 20 Seminario Romano, ii.106 Senaculum, i. 113 Septa, i. 58 ; ii.101 Septimontium, i. 198 Septizonum of Severus, i. 204 Sennoneta, ii. 71, 109, 207 Sesto,Cesare, ii.80, 216 Sette Basse,ii. 82 Sale, ii. 37 the Younger, i. 127 Shrine of Gordian the Lares, i. 252 Girolamo, ii.133 Sicciolante, Siena,Agostino da, i. 96
Berni

Tabularium, i. 73, 77 Tadolini,ii. 165 Tarentum, i. 163 Tarpeian Rock, i. 73, 180 ii.302 Tasso, death of, at S. Onofrio, ii. 83 Tavolato, Tempesta, i. 301 ; ii.207 Tempietto, the, i. 35 the, of Bramante, ii.313 Temples" of Aesculapius, ii.246 of the Arvales, ii. 255 and Faustina, i. 125 Antoninus Apollo, i. 166, 197 ; ii. 100 Apollo Medicus, i. 164 Augustus, i. 199 Bacchus, i. 271 Bellona, ii.101 Castor and Pollux, i. 116 Ceres, Liber, and Libera, i. 154 Ceres and Proserpine, i. 271 Claudius, i. 209 Concord, i. 113 Cybele, i. 162, 194, 196 Diana, i. 224, 231, 232 ; ii.102 Divus Rediculus, i.273
Faun
us, ii.244

da, ii. 67

S. Caterina

da,

i. 135, 303 ; ii.

144, 149
Gherardesco da, ii.308 Paolo da, ii. 181 Signorelli, Luca, ii. 11, 86, 193 Simone, i. 227 ; ii. 164

Sirani,Elisabetta,ii. 306
Sistine Chapel, ii. 192 Shelley,tomb of, ii.270

Sodoma, i. 290 ; ii. 203, 310 Sosnowsky, ii.74, 79 Spagna, Lo, ii. 80 Spagnoletto, ii.61, 214, 308 Guido da, ii. 234 SiK)leto, Stables,Royal, i. 300 Stairs of Cacus, i. 192,200 Stanze, the, ii.202 Statio Rationis Marnioruni, ii.106 of Vigil es, i. 247 Statue of Giordano Bruno, ii. 116 Marcus Aurelius, i. 75 Metastasio, i. 47 Victor Emmanuel II,,i. 100

Fever, ii. 287, 311 Fides, i 72 Fortuna, Equestris,ii. 102 Muliebris, ii.83 Publica, i. 287 i. 160 Virilis, 153 i. Fortune, Hadrian, ii. 103 Hercules,i. 160,246 Musagetes, ii.101
i. 169 156 i. Victor, and Virtue, i. 72, 246 Honour Isis and Serapis,ii.37,102 Jana, i. 231 Janus Quirinus, i. 123 Julius Caesar, i. 125 Juno, 11.102 Lucina, ii.32 Mephitis,ii.32

Musarum,

Moneta, i. 72 Regina, i. 231 Sospita,i. 164

ii.247 Jupiter,

Stern,Louis,ii.46 Raphael, ii.229 i. 19 artists', Studios,

of Canova, i. 41 i. 20 sculptors',

Capitolinus,i. 70, 94 Feretrius,i. 72 Inventor, ii.^2 Stator, i. 185

326
TemplesJupiter Tonans, i. 72 Victor, i. 192

Index
Tombs (ancient) Gens Cornelia, i. 253 Geta, i. 256 Hadrian, ii.152 S. Helena, ii.89, 217 Herodes and Regilla,i. 273 Horatii and Curiatii, i. 281 the Licinian gens, ii.8 of Lucilius Poetus,ii.8 the Metelli,i. 282 Monte on Mario, ii.296 of Menander, ii.8 the Nasones, ii.292 Nero, site of,i. 24 ii.293 so-called, L. Paetus and Lucilia PoUa, ii.8 the Pancratii,ii.83 Pompey, i. 283 i. 256 Priscilla, Romulus, son of Maxentius, i. 277 i. 253 ; ii. 228 the Scipios, of the Gens Sempronia, i. 51
"

Jutuma, ii. 103 i. 231 Liberty, Libertyand Juno, Luna, i. 231

Marcus

i. 231

Aurelius, i. 49 ; ii.103 i. 72,246, 253 ; ii.100 Ultor, i. 107 Mater Matuta, i. 155 Matuta, i. 155 Minerva, i. 231, 232 ; ii.102 Medica, ii.52 Moonlight, i. 198 Neptune, i. 49 ; ii.103 the Nymphs, i. 209 Peace, i. 126 Piety and Hope, i. 163 Pudicitia Patricia, i. 155 Plebeia, i. 311 Quirinus, i. 287 Romulus, son of Maxentius, i. 277

Mars,

Saturn, i. 113 Semo Sanctus, ii.287 Spes, i. 164 the Sun, i. 301 Sylvanus, i. 311
ii. 33 Tellus, Tempesta, i. 220

Sulla,i. 23 the Sulpicii, ii.311 SulpiciusGalba, ii.267 Maximus, ii.8 Sulpicius

Torre" de Babele, i. 303

Tempestas, i. 256 Venus and Cupid, ii.88 Erycina, i. 72 ; ii.15 Genetrix, i. 110 and Rome, i. 136 Libitina,ii. 32 Lucina, ii. 32 Vespasian, i. 113

"

Vesta, i. 117 i. 160 so-called, Victory,i. 196 Tenerani, ii.70,146, 177,277

Teniers,ii.308 Theatres (ancient) of Balbus, i. 174 of Marcellus, i. 166 of Pompey, ii. 122 Theatres (modern), i. 17 Thorwaldsen, i. 129 ; ii. 139, 178 Tiberius, Arch of, i. 114; palace of, i. 194 ; tomb of, i. 42 ii.43 Tigellum Sororis, Tintoret, i. 92 Titian,i.60, 62, 92,290 ; ii.213,307 Tito, Santi da, ii.241 Tojetti,Domenico, ii. 1 Tombs (ancient) of the baker Eurysaces, ii,88
"
"

Borgia, ii. 235 del Campidoglio, i. 76 dei Conti, ii. 37 del Fiscale,ii.83 Frangipani, ii.42 i. 303 del Grillo, Marancia, i. 269 Mellina, ii.128 Mezza Strada, i. 281 delle Milizie, i. 303 Nerone, i. 303

ii.19 di Nona, ii. 148 Nuova, ii.89 Pernice, ii.89 Pignatarra, ii.89 di Quinto, ii. 292 Sanguinea, ii. 106 dei Schiavi,ii. 89 della Scimia, ii.104 di Selce,i. 283 Tre Teste, ii. 90 Torretta del Palatino, i. 198 Trastevere,the, ii. 247 Tre Fontane, ii. 272 Trevi, Fontana di, i. 50 Tribunale di GueiTa e Marina, ii.31

Nomentana,

Bibulus,i. 66
Caius Cestius,ii.267 Casale Rotondo, i. 282 Cecilia Metella, i. 277 S. Constantia, ii.17,216

Tribune, the, i. 163 Triopio,the, i. 272 Trophies of Marius, ii.50 Jacopo da, ii.57 Turrita,
U.

Cotta, i. 282

CrepereiaTryphaena, ii.157

Udine, Giovanni of, ii.138

da, ii.234, 310

; grave

Index
luimmis Romae, I. 114 University of the Sapienza,ii.134
i

327

Via" del Ghetarello, i. 66 del Govemo Vecchio,ii, 110 35 i, Gregoriana, S, Gregorio, i. 247 Inimerulana, ii.81 Latina, i, 252 ; ii,83 ii.44 S, Lucia in Selce, Lungara, ii,262 Lungarina, ii.257, 258 Macel dei Corvi, i. 66 Maggiore, ii.49 Magnanopoli, i. 304 Malpasso, ii,116 Marforio, i. 66

Vnccii, tiaiimiio, ii.29 Vaga, Pierino del, i. 34, 54, 219; 135, 138, 156, 2t)2, 208, 234 Valadico, ii.65 Valca, the, ii.292 Val d'liifenio, ii.297

ii.

Valentin, ii. 215 i.271 Caffarelle. Valle,Filippo,ii.173 Val lis Murcia, i. 154 Vandyke, i. 60, 61 ; ii. 80, 287, 307 Vanni, Francesco, ii,27, 110 ii.27 Vanvitelli, Vasari, ii.191, 312 Vatican, the, ii.189 Vecchi, Giovanni de',ii.312 Velabrum, the, i. 151 Velasquez, i. 59, 92 ; ii.308 Velia, i. 136 Verlosi,Giuseppe, ii.177 Veronese, Paul, i. 62, 92 Vespasian, palace of, i. 191 Vestals, house of the, i. 118
Valle

Margutta, i. 35 Marmorata, ii.266

Mazzarini, i. 304 de Mercede, i. 47 Monserrato, ii.112 del Monte Tarpeio, i, 180 ii.257 Morticelli, di Muratte, i, 50 de Nazzareno, i, 48 Nazionale, i. 312 S, Niccolo da Tolentino, ii,4 Nova, i. 121, 184, 200 Pane e Pema, i. 307
in

Parione, ii. 110

ViaS. Agostino, ii. 106 Appia, i. 245 Ardeatina, i. 256 Alessandrina, i. 107, 109 S. Antonio
air

dei

ii.104 Portoghesi,
250

Antoniana, i Ara Coeli,i. 179

Babuino, i. 35
dei S.

Banchi, ii,149 ii.4 Basilio, Bonella, i. 109 del Borgo Nuovo, ii,157 delle Botteghe Oscure,i. 178 Calabraga, ii. 112 di Cappuctini, ii.4 i. 53 (.."aravita, Cassia,ii. 293 S. Claudio, i. 47 del Colosseo, ii,33 Condotti, i. 43 della Consolazione, i, 115 delle Convertite,i, 46 dei Coronari, ii.148,150 i. 40 del C'orso, della Ferratella, i, 252 dri Fienili, i. 151 i. 40 ; ii.291 Flaniinia,
Fontanella, i. 43; ii.103
delle Fornaci, ii. 311 di Giardino, i. 46 San Giovanni, ii.64

di Pietra,i. 49 del Pi6 di Marmo, ii.147 i. 41 de' Ponteflci, Portuense, ii.255 del Quirinale,i. 293 della Regola, ii,265 Ripetta, i. 38 S. Sabina, i, 233 Sacra,i, 126, 140 Salaria. ii.9, 11 i, 109 della Saiita del Grillo,
ii. 243 Savelli, della Scala, ii,262 delle Scuderie, ii.303 della Scrofa,ii. 103 S. Sebastiano, i.247 della Sediola,ii.134 i. 35 Sistina, dei Specchi, ii,120 Sterrata,i. 292 Tor di Specchi, i. 179 Tordinona, ii. 148 i. 141 ; ii.151 Trioraphalis, Urbana, i. 3()8 ii,270 Vanvitelli, dei Vascellari, ii.249 Venti Settenibre,ii,30 S. Vitale, i. 307 delle Vite, i. 46 Vittoria,i. 43 Vittorio Enianuele, ii,112

Giovanni

DecoUato, i. 163

flei Fiorentini, ii.150

dei Funari, i. 178 Giulia,ii.204

Viale Parioli, ii.2S8 Vicolo d'Aliberti, i. 3.'. death Victor Emmanuel, tomb of, ii.139 Vicus ApoUinis,i. 188

of, ii, 299;

328
Vicus Cornell orum, i. 288

Index
Villas-

Cyprius,ii.35
Judaeorum, i. IVI Jugarius, i. 115 Longus, i. 307, 311

Negroni, ii.23
ii.287 Olgiati,

Palatina, i. 203

Thurarius,i. 151 Tuscus, i. 117, 151 Vigna Codini, i. 254

de Fredis, ii. 36 dei Gesuiti, i. 242 Guidi,i. 250 Marancia, i. 256 Randanini, i. 277 S. Sabba, i. 243

Palombara, ii.50 ii. 315 Pamfili, of Papa Giulio, ii. 288

ii. 16 Patrizi, of Phaon, ii. 20 of Raffaelle, ii.287 of the ii.83 Servilii, Spada, ii. 20

ii. 25 Strozzi, Torlonia, ii.16

of Valerius

Torlonia, i. 242

i. 30 Asiaticus,

Vignola,1. 67, 184

Villas-

; ii.272

Vittoria,ii.16

Ada, ii. 11

Albani, ii.9
ii. 88 Altieri,

Amaranthiana, Aurelia,ii.313 Borghese, ii. 279 Campana, ii.64

i. 269

Bonaparte, ii. 15

Wolkonski, ii.82 Villa Publica, ii.100 Viminal, the, i. 286, 307 Vinci, Leonardo da, i. 52 ; ii.209 i. 303 Vite, Timoteo della, Vivarium, i. 218 Volpato, the engraver, tomb of, i. 62 Daniele da, L 34, 88, 301 ; ii. Volterra,
115, 124, 310, 312 Vouet, Simon, ii. 256 Vulcanal, the, i. 112

Celimontana, i. 219 Chigi, ii. 11

of Claude

Lorraine,ii.289
W. Walls of" Ancus

Doria, ii. 315 Esmeade, ii.288 Farnesina, 309 Gloria, ii.288 Lante, ii. 314 Lezzani, ii.16 of Livia,ii. 293 of LucuUus, i. 30 Ludovisi, ii. 5 Madama, ii. 294 Malta, i. 35 ii. 81 Massimo Ai*sole, Negroni, ii. 24 Rignano, ii. 4
.

Martius, i. 230 Aurelian, i. 253 ; ii.85 Honorius, ii.88, 233 Romulus, i. 199 Servius Tullius,i. 242 ; ii.23 Tarquinius Priscus, i. 184 Weld, Cardinal, grave of,i. 54 White Mnle, procession of the, ii. 141 Wolf of the Capitol, i. 90, 152

of Maecenas, ii. 63 Mattel, i. 219 Medici, i. 31 Mellini, ii.295 Mills, i. 203, 204 most worth seeing, i. 21

Zucchero, Federigo, i. 35
Zucchero, Taddeo, i. 110 of, ii. 139 Zucchi, ii.87

; ii. 191, 272 ; ii.256 ; tomb

END

OF

VOL.

I.

Printed

by BALLANTYNE,

HANSON London

"

Co.

Edinburgh

and