PREPARATORY PROCESSES

Subject :- Dyeing and Printing

Submitted by ASHISH KUMAR ANNEPU ROLL NO.-6 DFT SEM 5

FABRIC PREPERATION - INTRODUCTION

Textile materials posses various kinds of impurities which may be natural or

inherited in nature. These impurities may be added purposely for better spinability or weaveability. These impurities need to be removed from the fabric before dyeing it or printing it.
The

steps

by

which

these

impurities

are

removed

are

known

as

PREPARATOR

PROCESSES.

As the impurities present may differ from fiber to fiber the preparatory process may differ and the conditions too may differ considering the fiber properties. Preparatory processes may be classified into two main classes as follows:a. C!e"#i#$ %&'(e))e) where the impurities are removedby physical or

chemical means.
b. *+ite#i#$ %&'(e)) ,in which trace colouring materials are destroyed

and the whiteness of the materials is improved optically.

-.A Ob.e(ti/e) '0 %&e%"&"t'&y '%e&"ti'#)

The main objectives of the preparatory processes of textile materials are as follows:

emove the im%u&itie) from the fibers !both #"tu&"! as well as "dded impurities as it may interfere in subse"uent processes of dyeing or finishing applications.

#mprove the capability of the fibers to absorb water solutions of dyes and chemicals.
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 #mpart proper re"uired brightness or whiteness to the fibers according to need !especially when brilliant or pastel shades are desired. #mpart dimensional stability to thermoplastic textile materials.

-.B P&e%"&"t'&y %&'(e))e)

The preparatory processes can be generali$ed into the following categories:

emoval or loose fibers or yarn projections from the fabric surface. #n Singeing the fibers are burnt away by flames! while in Shearing and Cropping the projecting fibers are cut by a extruder type blade.

The process of removal of si$ing material applied upon the yarn before weaving is known as Desizing.

The most important of all processes is of Scouring in which most of the

water soluble and water insoluble impurities are removed.

The last process is of destroying the colouring materials by the process of

Bleaching! this helps in increasing the optical brightness of the fabric.

%ynthetics are processed by the an addition preparatory process known

as Heat setting.

1. CELLULOSIC MATERIAL

1.- C'tt'# "#d ('tt'# b!e#d)

&otton fibers on the average consist of '()-'*) cellulose when bone-dry. The

approximate amounts of other materials present in the fiber are: +.+-+.') proteins! (.,-+.-) pectin! (..-+.()waxes! (.,-*) ash! and (./-+.() other impurities.

 These materials are located mainly in the primary walls of the fiber that is at or

near the fiber0s surface. 1ecause of their hydrophobic nature it is difficult to wetout unsecured cotton.
#n the scouring process these impurities are removed to the extent that the fibers

will become hydrophilic and will easily w et-out.

#n addition to the natural impurities! cotton fibers contain other foreign materials. The preparation of fabrics made of cotton or polyester2cotton blends may include

some or all of the following operations: o Singeing o o o o Desizing Scouring, Bleaching Mercerizing.

#ncreasing demands for savings in chemicals! energy! and water! certain

treatments are often combined. An example of a combined application is the so called 0oxidative desi$ing0 where desi$ing and scouring take place at the same time.

1.-." Si#$ei#$

 %ingeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of

protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric.

#f not done properly! unclear print patterns! mottled fabric surfaces! and

pilling results. %ingeing of textile materials is necessary for te following reasons: o &otton materials are valued for their smooth appearance. After the formation of fabric it has a fu$$y or hairy appearance due to projecting fibers! thus affecting the luster and smoothness cotton is known for. o 3nsigned fabrics are soiled easily o The protruding fibers obstruct the subse"uent dyeing and printing process o 4oods which are to be merceri$ed are signed to maximi$e the luster
o

#n fabrics of polyester and cellulosic fiber blends singeing is the best method to control pilling! sometimes double singeing is done to minimi$e the pilling.

%ome of the precautions to be taken in considerations during singeing:o The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tend to scorch more readily than dry. o 3neven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is finished.
o

#mproper singeing may lead to loss of ,/ ) loss in tensile strength loss in warp direction.

o The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt!which may release acid on heating and tender the fabric. o %topping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics. o %ingeing may cause hardening of the si$e thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
o o

Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics. The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account when this process is applied! as heat-sensitive fibers melt! forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric. These balls interfere with dye absorption! so that! as a general rule! heat sensitive fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.

%ingeing process is as follows:

o

To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibers first the fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fiber ends.

Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas flames. The fiber ends burn off.

The fabric is moved very rapidly! and only the fiber ends are destroyed.

As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area! it enters a water bath or desi$ing bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.

1.-.b De)i2i#$
A gas flame type singeing 5esi$ing is a process which removes the chemical stiffener 6a starch or other machine

stiffener7 applied to warp yarns to make them easier to weave.

This is done to ensure that subse"uent dyeing and finishing materials can be

absorbed as evenly as possible.

5esi$ing also softens and removes any trash particles and seed-coat fragments. The desi$ing bath can be a hot water bath or a bath of en$ymes depending on

the si$ing material that were used.

The most commonly used si$ing materials are starches or polyvinyl alcohol.

The cloth continues through additional baths containing more en$ymes and

detergents that loosen the si$ing present and prepare the fabric for the scouring and bleaching. Typical types of starches are as follows :-

"

o 8atural starches6vegetable starches7 o &hemical modified starches6ethers 2esters7 o 9rganic polymers6polyacrylates!carboxymethylcellulosemethylcellulose!polyesters7

o

%olvent soluble materials6co-polymers of methyl- methacrylate7. 3

There are two methods of desi$ing

(a)

De)i2i#$ 4it+ +'t 4"te& : The greige cloth is washed with hot water to

remove P:A. (b) De)i 2i#$ 4it + e#2yme) : The c loth is steepe d in baths containing en$ymes

6+) so lution b y volume7 or malt and kept for . to ; hour s at //< to ;( < &. The en$ymes hydroly$e starch and convert it t o readily soluble substances.

&loth moves through the singeing and desi$ing process at a rate of up to =((

yards per minute. o o o The classical desi$ing process fundamentally involves: %welling of highly polymeri$ed si$e 5issolving >ashing of the swollen polymer %olubility of starches are promoted by action of acids! oxidi$ers and

alkalis!if proper care is not taken then the acid and oxidi$ers not only attack starch but cellulose also!leading to degradation of fabric and making it weak. :arious other methods of desi$ing are: ot %teeping: The fabrics are impregnated with hot water pits. ?ater! given hot and cold wash. like s"uee$ed and

then stored for -. hours in the

Acid 5esi$ing: #t is a fast process done by using mineral

#

%ulphuric acid or @ydrochloric acid.As it is a fast process may cause damage to cotton. Alkali 5esi$ing: 3sually done by %odium @ydroxide 8a9@ A -to =) 6owf7 at

about /( o& and stored for .-* hrs before washing with hot water. @igh &hemical cost. 5anger of 9xy cellulose formation because of local drying. %uitable for fabrics si$ed with P:A and2or acrylics. E#2ym"ti( De)i2i#$3 Bost acceptable! economic and safe! Cuicker and better than rot
o

steeping.&ellulose does not get tendered.&are is needed for temperature of *( and p@ of /./ to *./. The fabric is padded with bacterial en$yme 6+./ --g2l7 D &ommon salt 6+--g2l7D >etting agent 6+--g.l7D Acetic acid to adjust the p@. and stored for about ;hr! followed by hot and cold wash. O5id"ti/e De)i2i#$3 1y %odium @ypochlorite or %odium 1romite P&'(e))3 +. Eabric D 8a9&l 6-g2l available chlorine7 at oom Temperature and stored for '(-+-( min. -. @ydrogen Peroxide 6/()7 -+) %odium %ilicate-+) %odium &arbonate- (./) %teamed for =(-=/min and then washed =. %odium 1romite of (.+-=) at *(
$%
o

&

&

and dwell for +/ min and %couriing

&hemical Process involved :%tarch6insoluble7 dextrin6insoluble7 dextrin6soluble7 maltose6soluble7

alpha-glucose6soluble7

1.-.( S('u&i#$
This cleaning treatment is also referred to as alkali boil-off. %couring removes waxes and destroys vegetable matter residues in cotton and cotton blend fabrics. The success of the scouring process is judged by the improvement in wet ability of the scoured material. The process essentially consists of treatment with a soap or detergent with or without a alkali. C"u)ti( )'u&i#$
o

An alkaline solution of sodium hydroxide 6/-+( g2l7 or a mixture of sodium hydroxide and sodium carbonate of a similar alkalinity! close to or above the boil! for +-- hours!is used to saponify the fats on the fibers.

The soap that is formed then serves to emulsify the remaining waxes and wash away any dirt or other impurities.

Pectin is converted into their sodium salts which are water soluble! and proteins undergo basic hydrolysis to form water soluble amino acids.
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 A se"uestering agent is added to the scouring bath to prevent caDD and mgD D ions combiing with soap molecules. 9rganic se"uestering agents stable under hot alkali conditions are:o F5TA o 8TA o @F5TA

T+e&e "&e t4' ty%e) '0 )('u&i#$3 (a) Kie&- b'i!i#$ : Eabrics are heated under pressure using steam in

steel stainless steel pressure vessels 6kiers7 of - to =m 5iameter and = to . m height. The kiering li"uor is an alkaline solution containing caustic soda 6+ to =) of fabric wt7 6major component7! soda ash! sodium silicate and sodium peroxide with small amounts of detergents. The boiling is carried out for several hours 6+ to +hrs7.

(b) C'#ti#u'u) S('u& : #n this method! the desi$ed fabric is passed through a caustic solution 6= to *) caustic soda! surfactants and sodium phosphate7 and after saturation! passed on to 6 box where the fabric is heated with live steam at a temperature of +((<& for + hour.

The changes caused by treating with alkaliare summari$ed as follows: o %aponifiable oils and fats are converted into soaps o 3nsaponifiable sopas melt at scouring temperature and are emulsified by the soap formed during saponification o Pectins and pectoses are converted into soluble salts of pectic acids and metapectic acids.
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o >ater soluble mineral substances are dissolved o #nsoluble dirt is removed and retained as suspension

o %i$ing and other impurities are broken into soluble products. o Proteins are hydroly$ed by formation of soluble amino acids or ammonia. After scouring! the cloth is rinsed well with water to remove the excess chemicals. The final rinse may include a small amount of acetic acid if the fabric has to be neutrali$ed. sodium salts of

1.-.D B!e"(+i#$ 1leaching is re"uired to obtain pure whiteness since fibers are seldom pure white in their &otton fabrics are naturally off-white to tan in color! depending on the amount of pigmentation in the fiber natural state.
The bleaches are chemical agent or compounds that react with the color

compounds in the fiber! oxidi$e them and render them colorless. Bost bleaches used by cotton industry are either chlorine bleaches 6+()7 or per The per oxygen bleaches! and particularly hydrogen peroxide bleaches6'()7! @ydrogen peroxide bleaching is carried out by exhaust! semi continuous and

oxygen bleaches. are used most fre"uently in commercial bleaching of cotton greige 6untreated7 goods! continuous methods. 9f these! the preferred and most widely used is the continuous bleaching in the open-width. #n particular! the open-width method is preferred when bleaching blendsG of cotton with heat-sensitive fibers! such as polyester! in order to avoid crease marks and other defects caused by treating fabrics in the rope form. I# ty%i("! b"t(+ t&e"tme#t) '0 ('tt'# 0"b&i() 4it+ +yd&'$e# %e&'5ide i#
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7ie&), t+e b!e"(+i#$ b"t+ i) %&e%"&ed ") 0'!!'4)3 @ydrogen peroxide 6=/)7 - .-;) 6o.w.f.7 H %odium hydroxide - (./-+) 6o.w.f.7 %odium silicate - --.) 6o.w.f.7 >etting agent or detergent - when needed

The bleaching is then carried out near the boil or at temperatures above the boil!

under pressure! for an hour or more. After bleaching! the goods are thoroughly rinsed with a slightly basic solution to avoid the formation of insoluble silicates.

I# " ty%i("! ('#ti#u'u) b!e"(+i#$ i# t+e '%e#-4idt+ t+e %"ddi#$ b"t+ @ydrogen peroxide - 6/()7 +./--./) %odium hydroxide - (.--(.*) %odium silicate -+-+ ./) >etting agent - (.+-(.- )

('#t"i#) t+e 0'!!'4i#$3

After padding the fabric is passed through a steamer. %teaming time may vary

from as little as a few minutes to one hour or more! depending on the type of steam and steamer used. 8eedless to say that the optical bri ghteners are also employ ed in bleach ing.

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1.-.E MERCERI8ATION
%ingeing! desi$ing! scouring! and bleaching are routine finishing processes!

whereas merceri$ation is an optional step in the finishing of cotton and cottonblend fabrics. the treatment of cotton with a strong solution of sodium hydroxide altered the strength! absorbency! and appearance of the fabric.
Eabric treated in this way shrunk as much as -/ percent of its length! the finish

was not applied commercially untiit was discovered that applying the finish under

tension not only minimi$ed shrinkage but also increased luster

#n merceri$ation! as this finish is called! the cotton fabric is immersed under ten-

sion in a strong solution of sodium hydroxide for a short! controlled period of time 6usually . minutes or less7! the alkali is washed off! and any excess alkali is neutrali$ed. The sodium ions in the solution displace the hydrogen on the cellulose-9@ groups! pushing the polymeric chains farther apart and swelling the fiber. Berceri$ed cotton fabrics have greatly increased luster. 5uring merceri$ation the fiber swells! the natural convolutions of cotton are largely lost! and the fiber retains a fuller! rounded diameter. This smooth surface reflects more light than does the untreated! flatter fiber. The strength of the fiber is increased as much as -( percent. The cotton Berceri$ed fabrics are also more reactive. %o! they are more easily damaged by
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becomes more absorbent and has a greater affinity for moisture and for dyestuffs.

acids and oxidi$ing agents! but merceri$ed fabrics are more receptive to resin finishes. o Berceri$ation can be applied to either yarns or fabrics %lack merceri$ation: merceri$ation of fabrics that are not held under tension! can be used to produce

stretch fabrics. 5uring slack merceri$ation yarns shrink and develop a good degree of elasticity. The finished fabric can be stretched! and when the tension is removed! the goods will return to their original length. Iarns that have been slack merceri$ed do not have the high luster of yarns merceri$ed under tension. This process is not widely used. Eactors affecting the degree of merceri$ation must be carefully controlledJ otherwise the uneven application will lead to unlevel dyeing. #n particular! the amount of tension applied! and the concentration and temperature of the sodium hydroxidebath should be the same through out the entire application. o &ontinuous merceri$ation

The fabric is padded with about -(--/) sodium hydroxide solution containing a wetting agent! and then passed over several cans to allow a dwelling time of approximately one minute during which the caustic solution will penetrate the fibers and react with them properly.

At this stage the tension is applied only in the length direction.

The fabric is then placed on a tenter frame 6tension now is applied in both the

warp and the filling directions7 and is pulled to its original or desired dimensions. >hile on the tenter frame! the fabric is washed by spraying water until the amount of sodium hydroxide on the fabric is reduced to only a few percent. The fabric is removed from the tenter frame! and the remaining alkali is removed by passing! the fabric through several washers! one of which contains a dilute solution of sulfuric or acetic acid.
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 Berceri$ation is both inexpensive and permanent! and for these reasons it is widely used on cotton goods

1.-.F TENTERIN9
Tentering is the mechanical straightening and d rying of fabric s to secure

uniform width and t o keep the filling yarns on-grain.

Eabric goes through a lot of stress during preparation! dyeing! printing! and finishing

This often causes the w arp and fillin g threads to be off-grain. Tentering establishes the alignment of these warps and filling yarns. Properly tentered fabrics will be straight. This means that the warp a nd filling

yarns are at '(< angles to one another.

A tenter frame holds the fabric between two parallel chains! with eith er clips

6tenters7 or pins ! while adjusting the side-to-side alignment of the cloth.

The chains spread apar t to the desired fabric width! move with th e fabric

through drying units! and release the fabri c to the next pr ocess.
This process is used after seve ral of the finishing opera tions.

#f the fabr ic is fed to the chains so that the yar ns are perpendicular! the fabric stays on-grain . #f not! a bow or ske w situati on develops.

:. PROTENEOUS MATERIAL
Animal or protein fibres are very irregular in composition. They contain a significant amount of non-fibrous impurities-about /() in case of wool and about +/-=() in case of silk. These fibres are very sensitive to alkali and are damaged "uickly on wet treatment at high temperature 6especially wool7. @ence! these fabrics are
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scoured with large amount of soap or detergent! with little or without alkali at low temperature.

:.- SILK
:.-.A DE9UMMIN9 OF SILK The silk filament 6&hemically a mono filament of protein7 extruded by the silkworm called a bave consists of two brins.

These two brins are stuck together by sericin and become a single continuous filament. Thus the silk bave is of two brins held together by sericin.

T+e ('m%')iti'# '0 mu!be&&y &"4 )i!7 i) ") 0'!!'4)3 Eibroin - ,(-;() %ericin - -(-=(/ >axy matter - (..-(.;) &arbohydrates - +.--+.*/ #norganic matter - (.,) Pigment - (.-) The process of eliminating K4um 6sericin7L from raw silk is known as degumming of silk. 5egumming of silk involves mainly the removal of sericin from the fibroin. %ericin is insoluble in water.
#t is

comparatively easily hydroly$ed! whereby the long protein molecule of

sericin! is broken down into smaller fractions! which are easily dispersed or solubillsed in hot water. @ydrolysis of proteins can be carried out by treatment with acids! alkalis and en$ymes. Acids are non-specific and tend to attack vigorously.

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 Alkalis also attack both! sericin and fibroin. @owever! the variation in the rate of hydrolysis is large enough to control the reaction. The degumming with soaps in the presence of mild alkalis like soda ash is in practice. 5egumming with alkalis is a function of p@ and temperature and duration of treatment. p@. The p@ should be kept at the leve+ of './ to +(./. #f the level is below './! then the process of removing sericin will be slow. #f the p@ is over +(./! the degumming loss will be greatly increased.
Process:-

The degumming of raw silk is generally carried out using .-/ g2l

soap and # g2l soda ash at boiling temperature for /-*( minutes! maintaining the li"uor ratio at =(:+.the treated material is given a hot wash for +(-+/ minutes and finally it is washed in cold water. The degumming process which removes the silk gum is also called as boiling-of process and this is accomplished by the use of soap and soda. The degumming loss in this process in -(--/). #n certain cases! entire silk gum is not removed! but only sufficient amount is removed to make the silk soft and lustrous and workable in dyeing and bleaching. This is known as K%oupling Kin which only +() to +/ ) of the gum is removed. Process of scoupling : o raw silk is soaked in lukewarm dilute soap bath for several hours and rinsed in fresh water. o After soupling the silk may be bleached or dyed.

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After bleaching the soupled silk is fre"uently given a treatment with hot 6;/o&7 solution of tartar.

o This causes the silk gum remaining on the fibre to soften and remain in that condition permanently. #n addition to removing the soil or additives used while weaving silk! scouring removes any sericin 6gum7 that remains on the silk. 9ften a "uantity of the natural gum has been allowed to remain on the silk fiber to give it additional body and to make it easier to handle in spinning and weaving. Although for raw silk fabrics the gum is retained purposely to provide body or produce a different texture! most silk fabrics are degummed as a part of the finishing process. The resultant fabric has a much softer hand and a whiter appearance. %ilk is usually bleached with dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide.

aw silk is sometimes given a very mild scouring for the purpose of softening the fibre. This is called as MF& 3 %#?NL in which only - to /) in weight of silk gum is removed.

F& 3 %#?N can be prepared by simply washing the raw silk in lukewarm or hot

water without the use of soap. This is used mainly for warpJ hence the gum is left purposely.

The degumming of silk fabrics is generally carried out batch-wise in small lots using e"uipments

a& O%e# be(7: Bost common used e"uipment for degumming. The fabric is evenly piled in the open vessel! filled with the degumming li"uor and treated from the bottom. #n case of fabrics containing small "uantities of sericin the treatment in open beck may be "uite effective. b& St"& m"(+i#e: 3sed for the degumming of delicate fabrics and cases where the 2%

primary consideration is perfect production "uality! especially for goods which are to be plain dyed.

The Assessment of effectiveness of degumming is done by the extent of removal of sericin by calculation the of weight loss of fabric after degumming! scanning through electro microscope or by chemical staining method.

:.-.B!e"(+i#$ '0 )i!7

2$

The silk being spun by silk worm contains natural colouring matter tinted with

yellow! yellow -green and brown pigments. 5uring degumming the removal of sericin from the silk results in dull white to

lightly tinted material. %ince some of the sericin is closely held by fibroin! complete elimination of the

colour by degumming is not possible. 5uring bleaching these natural colouring matters are decolori$ed2removed to

produce pure white material. An efficient bleaching process must ensure pure and permanent whiteness! level dyeing properties and non degradation of the material. agents. S'me '0 t+e im%'&t"#t &edu(i#$ "$e#t) u)ed 0'& b!e"(+i#$ "&e: a) b) c) %odium @ydrosulphite 6@ydrose7 %ulphur 5ioxide. %odium2Oinc %ulphoxylate Eormaldehyde. The bleaching of silk is based on the use of either reducing agents or oxidi$ing

The above reducing agents at time tend to reoxidise original colour may be restored in the bleached material. T+e %'%u!"& '5idi2i#$ "$e#t) u)ed 0'& b!e"(+i#$ '0 )i!7 "&e3 a) @ydrogen Peroxide b) Potassium Permanganate. c) %odium Per borate d) %odium Peroxide.

The chlorine based agents such as bleaching powder! %odium @ypochlorite are not generally used as they tend to chlorinate the silk fibroin. 9f the above! @ydrogen Peroxide is mostly preferred. .
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 Met+'d) '0 b!e"(+i#$3 -. B!e"(+i#$ 4it+ )'dium +yd&')u!%+ite ;+yd&')< a. b. c. storage 1. B!e"(+i#$ 4it+ )u!%+u& di'5ide '0 )u!%+u&'u) "(ida. b. The degummed silk goods are hung in a suitable chamber where they are Approximately / kg of sulphur is re"uired to bleach +(( kg of silk. This method exposed to sulphur dioxide gas or immersed in sodium bisulpite in water for .-* hours. of bleaching is not generally practiced as it causes air pollution. :. B!e"(+i#$ 4it+ )u!%+'5y!"tea. b. c. d. %odium sulphoxylate formaldehyde is a stable reducing agent marketed as A bath containing --.) 6o.w.m7 sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde and +--./) the goods are treated at boil for -(-=( minutes. Einally the material is thoroughly Oinc sulphoxylate formaldehyde also known a decolin!safolin can also be used rongolite! sofolite! etc. 6o.w.m7! formic acid 6;/)7 is prepared. washed. as bleaching agent. The degummed silk goods are treated in a bath containing . grams per litre of The entire lot must be completely immersed and the bleaching li"uor is stirred Einally the material is thoroughly washed. #t is to be noted that the solution sodium hydrosulphite at /(o & for .-* hours. sufficiently to ensure uniform distribution. should be made up only when re"uired as its reducing power deteriorates rapidly on

=. B!e"(+i#$ 4it+ )'dium %e&'5idea. #n this process bleaching is done with the following typical recipe: %odium peroxide
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--.) 6o.w.m7

Bagnesium sulphate %odium silicate %ulphuric acid 6'*)7 %odium bicarbonate Baterial:water Time

(./) 6o.w.m7 =) 6o.w.m7 --.) 6o.w.m7 (./) 6o.w.m7 +:=( .-/ hrs at *(o &

The oxygen yielded by the decomposition of sodium peroxide oxidi$es the chromo gens of silk so that it becomes colorless. 5. B!e"(+i#$ 4it+ +yd&'$e# %e&'5idea. @ydrogen peroxide is the most preferred bleaching agent which is sold as =/-/() a"ueous solution. #t is "uite stable under acidic conditions. b. T+e ty%i("! &e(i%e '0 %e&'5ide b!e"(+i#$ %&'(e)) i) $i/e# be!'43 %ilk goods - x kg Baterial: water - +:=( @-9- - * g2l %odium silicate -+./ g2l %oda ash - (./ g2l Temperature - ;(-;/o & Time - *(-'(o & c. #n this process the liberation of perhydroxyions acts as a true bleaching agent. d. @ere the sodium silicate acts as a stabili$ing agent and helps to maintain the speed of the process slow and steady.

e. The hydrogen peroxide is used as an important agent for silk as the white colour generated lasts long and further it possesses good stability on storage.
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6. O%ti("! b!e"(+i#$ met+'d > 1. #n order to achieve the re"uired degree of whiteness of a fabric! colour complementaries are introduced to achieve desired luster. 2. To obtain this the material is treated with optical brightening agents. 3. The mechanism behind this is that these agents absorb invisible 3: light and emit in the visible range of the spectrum! some of the commercial available agents are A ty%i("! &e(i%e3 /) 6o.w.m7 anipal >@8 - g2l sodium hydrosulphite Baterial: waterP +:=( The material is immersed in the above bath at *( o & and treated for =(-*( minutes. Einally! the goods are washed and dried. anipal >@8! ?eucopher PAT.

:.1 *OOL
:.1.A C"&b'#i2i#$
>ool fabrics that have some vegetable matter clinging to the woven or knitted &arboni$ing is accomplished by the immersion of wool in sulfuric acid or yarns must be carbon i$ed. hydrochloric acid. 1ecause strong acids readily attack the cellulose of the vegetable matter and do not immediately harm protein fibers like wool! the burrs! sticks! leaves!
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and the like that remain in the wool are destroyed. The treatment is carried out under carefully controlled conditions so that the wool is not damaged! and the fabric is given a careful scouring afterward to remove or neutrali$e all the acid that remains.

:.1.B SOURIN9
The scouring of wool is done in solutions of less concentration and at lower temperatures than the scouring of other fibers because the alkalinity of most scouring solutions damages wool. Bild detergents and sodium carbonate are fre"uently used. >ool can be scoured with a detergent solution at a p@ of upto++ 6e.g.9..) 8a-&(=7! when the scouring-bath temperature is kept below +-/o E. a typical scouring procedure of raw wool the fibers are treated at temperatures below *((& 6l.(oE7! with an anionic or a non-ionic detergent and a small amount of a weak base such as sodium bicarbonate or ammonia

:.1.C FULLIN9
>ool fabrics are fulled! or milled! to give the fabric a more compact structure. #n a Eulling involves two processesQscouring and milling 6thickening7. These are

type of preshrinking! fabrics are subjected to moisture! heat! soap! and pressure. followed by stretching the cloth on great frames known as tenters and held onto those frames by tenterhooks. #t is from this process that we derive the phrase being on tenterhooks as meaning to be held in suspense. #n the milling machine! the wet fabric is pounded with hammers or is alternately
2

stretched and compressed for mechanical action. Eulling causes the yarns to shrink and to lie closer together and gives the fabric a >ool cloth may be given more or less fulling! depending on the desired denser structure. characteristics of the resultant fabrics. :.1.D BLEACHIN9 Although wool fabrics often are finished in the natural color or dyed without Traditionally! wools were bleached by process called stoving! which exposed the &urrent Processes use hydrogen peroxide and mild temperatures. bleaching! sometimes bleaching may be necessary. fabric to sulfur dioxide.

=. S NTHETICS
%ynthetic fibres are man made.

The most prominent fibr es are rayon! acetate! nylon! acrylic and polye

ster.

ayon is regenerated cellulose.

Acetate fibr e is cellulose acetate .

2!

8ylon is a polyamide fibre manufactured by r

eaction of hexamethylene

diamine and adipic acid .

Acrylic fibres are formed from wet or dry spinning of co-polymers containing

at least ;/) by weight of acrylonitrile units.

Polyester fibre is manufactured by esterification of ethylene glycol with

terephthalic acid.

These fabrics re"uire no processing for the removal of natural impurities as

they are man made.

They do re"uire some treatm ents such as removal of si$ e! antistat and

lubricating oils used in weaving operations.

5ue to the low moisture uptake of synthetic fibres in comparison to cotton

and wool! static electricity problems are encountered in yam preparation and weaving operations. @ence antistatic oils and lubricants are applied to the fibre before weaving. The commonly employed si$es! antistats and lubricants are 6i7 polyvinyl alcohol 6ii7 styrene -base resins 6iii7 polyalkylene glycols 6iv7 gelath! and 6v7 polyvinyl acetate.

The preparation processes are g enerally similar for all th ese fabrics and

include:

@eat setting

%couring and
2"

insing 6for the removal of process chemicals used in weaving operations .

1leaching! and rinsing.

The abov e processes are carri ed out in the same way as for cotton textil fibres and clothes are readily processed on the conventional m cotton.

es. The

achineries u sed for

=.-. DESI8IN9 OF S NTHETICS #$ '0 )y#t+eti() "#d b!e#d)

%ynthetic fibres are strongerJ hence increasing strength by si$ing is not the aim. The adhesion of si$ing material to the yarn is also difficult. %i$ing of man made fibres with starch creates a lot of problems. The main synthetic si$es comprise of polyvinyl alcohol 6P:A7! polyacrylic acid! &B&! plastici$ed acidic vinyl acetates and acidic methyl acrylate polymers. >hen water soluble P:A is used as a si$ing agent in weaving! no desi$ing is necessary. light scouring with =-/ g2l nonionic detergent at '/-+(() for -(-=( minutes is enough to remove the si$e material. @owever! high molecular weight 6R+!((!(((7 P:A is difficult to remove

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 . Polyester si$ing agents are not removed by simple washing treatment.

They can be removed by treating with a solution containing --= g2l nonionic detergent and+--g2l caustic soda or soda-ash6with or without +--g2l sodium tripolyphosphate7at ;(-'(o&. the use of soft water or se"uestering agent is recommended. polyacrylic acid is soluble in mildly acidic or alkaline solution. The desi$ing of polyester2cotton blends depends on the nature of si$e used. Acrylic copolymer is removed by simple mild alkaline scour.P:A and &B& are removed by hot wash. a mixture of starch and emulsifying wax is removed by means of en$ymatic desi$ing followed by alkaline scour. >hen acrylic si$es are mixed with starch! their ph of about './ will inactivate en$ymes. #n such cases! the fabric may be pre-acidified or acetic acid may be added to the desi$ing bath to bring ph at ;. P:A can be easily removed using hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a metal catalyst under neutral condition

=.1 HEAT SETTIN9

3nlike natural and regenerated fabrics! the synthetic fabrics re"uire a special preparatory operation called heat-setting. 5uring this operation! the material is subjected to thermal treatment in tensioned condition in hot air! steam or hot water medium. 3nless this treatment is done these materials will shrink when treated with a"ueous solution and as a result the linear dimensions and the shape of ready articles change. %etting process releases the strains imposed during drawing! knitting or weaving processes! minimi$es creasing during wet processing and imparts high degree of dimensional stability.

3%

 #n order to achieve a satisfactory degree of set in synthetic thermoplastic fibres it is necessary to supply sufficient energy to the fibre to weaken or to break inter-chain bonds and allow new bonds to be formed whilst the material is held to optimi$ed dimensions. Thus the material must be heated to a temperature close to the thermoplastic point of the fibre and some degree of width ways or lengthways tensions are normally imposed on the fabric. T+e )etti#$ %&'(e)) ('#)i)t) '0 t4' )t"$e)3 @eating of the material to a specific temperature depending on the fibre type! ensuring breakage of intermolecular bonds and e"uali$ing stresses in chains.

&ooling of the material resulting in the restoration of intermolecular bonds! the fibres being in new state! free from internal stress. The "uicker the cooling and the lower the temperature! the better is the stabili$ation effect.

M"i# te(+#i?ue) '0 +e"t-)etti#$ "&e3 -. D&y-+e"t )etti#$ 6or simply heat setting 2thermo setting7-using indirect oil or electrical heating in pin or clip stentering machine 1. Ste"m-)etti#$ using high pressure steam
:. Hyd&'-)etti#$ using hot water

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=.: SOURIN9 OF S NTHETICS:

The scouring procedures for synthetic fibres are relatively simple since the fibres contain fewer impurities! most of which have at least some degree of water solubility! the most important being si$es and lubricants. The major si$es used are polyvinyl alcohol! carboxylmethyl cellulose and polyacrylic acid! all of which are completely or partially water-soluble.

=.=.- S('u&i#$ '0 "(et"te3

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 %econdary acetate or triacetate can be scoured with soap or synthetic detergent usually at *(S,( &! this being sufficient to remove soil! oil! coloring impurities and antistatic agents. Anionic synthetic detergents such as polyoxyethylene sulphates are preferred for all the synthetic fibres that are to be subse"uently dyed with disperse dyes! since nonionic detergents with low cloud point may hamper stability of disperse dyes at high temperature. Addition of se"uestering agent will be helpful for hard water. high temperature. elaxation of

knitting or weaving tensions occurs during scouring under minimum tension at

=.=.1 S('u&i#$ '0 #y!'#

Polyamide or polyester fabrics are ade"uately scoured using an alkyl polyoxyethylene sulphate and sodium carbonate.>ith polyamides or nylons! nonionic synthetic detergents 6+./-- g2l7 with the addition of an alkali 6(./-+./ g2l sodium carbonate or trisodium phosphate7 are suitable. Anionic detergents like fatty alcohol sulphonates behave like acid dyes and are adsorbed by the fibre. Their presence on the fibre will slow down dyeing and may reduce the exhaustion of the dye bath. #f the material is to be dyed with acid dyes! a nonionic detergent is to be used.
The temperature of scouring varies according to whether the material is already

heat-set or not! being ,(-;(o & for the unset and '/-+((o & for heat-set. @igh temperature may cause deterioration of setting.
After scouring the nylon fabric should be washed thoroughly before drying. The

fabric should not be dried unevenly as this could lead to irregular results in dyeing! particularly with anionic product.
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=.=.: S'u&i#$ '0 %'!ye)te&

Polyester products which bear low "uantities of processing aids compatible with

disperse dyes can simply be washed with water or may even be allowed to remain in the dye bath..
#f si$ing agents are not removed easily! an additional step of en$ymatic desi$ing

is to be carried out.
8ormally scouring bath should have +-- g2l synthetic detergent or soap 6alone or

admixture with nonionic surfactant7 and - g2l soda ash. Eor light weight materials the temperature should be below *( done at boil for -(-=( minutes. A soil suspending agent like sodium tripolyphosphate may be added.
The same condition may be maintained for polyester viscose blends. Eor blends
o

&. for other materials! scouring may be

with cotton and linen the concentration of alkali should be doubled. Eor polyester-wool worsted fabrics! the scouring may be done with =-.) 6o.w.m7 soap and -(-=(g2l soda ash at room temperature for -(-=( minutes! followed by rinsing at .(o&.

=.=.= S('u&i#$ '0 "(&y!i( 0ib&e)

Eor acrylic fibres! anionic surfactants should be avoided! because they may restrain the uptake of basic dyes. These fibres are scoured with an ethoxylated alcohol! either alone or with a mild alkali such as sodium carbonate or phosphate. . The best method depends on the type and "uantity of substances to be removed. %ometimes a short cold rinse is sufficient.
34

3sually a weal alkaline treatment with nonionic detergent 6(./-+) o.w.m7 and ammonia 6(./-+) o.w.m7 may be carried out at ;(o&.phosphates can be used as an alkaline agent. Addition of a solvent based detergent helps removal of oil and grease! if present.

After scouring a thorough rinse at /(-*(o & is necessary to remove any residual alkali.

=.5 BLEACHIN9
#n synthetic fabric! discolouration results from the by products of manufacture! which include processing auxiliaries! spinning oils in yarn making! and formulations for yarn si$ing in weaving .%ynthetic fibres are generally manufactured with high levels of whiteness except when the conditions for fibre formation cause discolouration. #n these cases! bleaching can include fluorescent whitening agents.

Eormulations are composed for safe temperatures and p@ ranges that minimi$e acid and alkali degradation of the fibre. As an example! polyester fibres have been bleached with di- and tri- chloroisocyanuric acid at P@ =-'! at *(-*/ o &! for =(-./ minutes.

=.5.A Ny!'#
35

 @eat setting temperatures for the various forms of nylon may cause yellowing from oxidation. @eat sensitivity is a special consideration for bleaching the nylon thermoplasts. @ydrogen peroxide is not used because the bleach bath processes at too high a temperature. ecommended bleaches are non chlorinated types: sodium perborate! percarbonate! and peracetic acid. a peracetic acid bleach bath is processed with sodium pyrophosphate at p@ *-,.
The material is introduced cold and the temperature is raised to ;(-;/ c over =(

min with subse"uent bleaching at this temperature for =( minutes. >here possible! lower temperatures and p@ are recommended.

@@ =.5.B B!e"(+i#$ '0 0ib&e b!e#d)

#n /(2/( blends of natural and synthetic fibres! bleaching procedures are based on the sensitivity of the natural fibre component! provided that temperature and p@ are not damaging to the synthetic fibre. >hen the natural fibre component represents a small percentage of the composition! it may withstand harsher conditions than would normally be prescribed for bleaching it alone. >hen a textile contains a fibre blend with fibres of e"ual sensitivity but une"ual percentages! bleaching formulations are tailored to the safe re"uirements of the fibres present in the larger amount.
3

=.5.C P'!ye)te&
o o o o o Polyester may be bleached using acidified sodium chlorite. There is no damage to the fier but a slight increase in crystalli$ation. A standard recipe for making +(( litrs solution for bleaching is: %odium chlorite---. kgs &hlorite stabili$e Eormic acid Ato p@ =./ to ==.; %odium nitrate-+./-- kgs >etting and dispersing agents.

=.5.D A(&y!i(
1leaching is always accompanied with fluorescent whitening Acrylic fibers when boiled in a solution of Ph R, neiher hydrogen peroxide nor 1leaching is done mostly by sodium chlorite for + hr at '( degrees #f a fluorescent agent is preset then it is preferable to bleach near boil for =/-.( An alternative is to bleach acrylics with sodium chlorite or hypochlorite at p@

hydrogen hypochlorite are applicable. mins. below = .

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P&e%"&"ti'# O0 C'tt'# 0"b&i( ;mu)!i#<

3"

*it+ P&"(ti("! )"m%!e)

E5%e&ime#t 1. AIM OF EAPERIMENT3- To 5esi$e a untreated sample of muslin fabric as a preparatory process for dyeing process. 1. a. b. c. THEOR OF THE EAPERIMENT 5esi$ing is a process which removes the chemical stiffener 6a starch or other The desi$ing bath can be a hot water bath or a bath of en$ymes depending on The cloth continues through additional baths containing more en$ymes and

stiffener7 applied to warp yarns to make them easier to weave. the si$ing material that were used. detergents that loosen the si$ing present and prepare the fabric for the scouring and bleaching. Re(i%e '0 t+e %&'(e)) 1. :. a. Add /) mineral acid6diluted @&?7 MATERIAL REBUIRED ?arge container2bath
3#

b. c. d. e. f.

%poon 4looves Bineral acid >ater %tirring rod Add water into the container2bath and put for boiling 1oil the bath till the temperature reaches +(( degrees6boiling7 Add the /) mineral acid to the bath %tir the mixture using a stirring rod #mmerse the fabric into the bath and stir it . ?et the fabric be in the bath for the next + hr. emove the fabric after + hr and dry the fabric.

.. PROCEDURE

5. OBSERCATIONS The colour of the fabric changes The si$e of the fabric also shrinks . The solution in the dye bath is of muddy color which confirms the removal of the

si$ings. 6.RESULT The fabric has been freed of various si$es applied to it during the process of weaving basically si$es of soluble nature are removed in this process.

4%

E5%e&ime#t 1
1. AIM OF EAPERIMENT3- To scour a desi$ed sample of muslin fabric as a second preparatory process for dyeing process. 1. a. b. c. +. -. =. .. THEOR OF THE EAPERIMENT This cleaning treatment is also referred to as alkali boil-off. %couring removes waxes and destroys vegetable matter residues in cotton and . In addition, caustic scouring swells the motes and opens them up. Re(i%e '0 t+e %&'(e)) 8A9@--)6owf7 %oap-+) 6owf7 %oda ash-+)6owf7 Baterial:li"uor ratio-+:-(
4$

cotton blend fabrics.

:. a. b. c. d. e. f.

MATERIAL REBUIRED ?arge container2bath %poon 4looves &hemicals- 8A9@!soap! soda ash >ater %tirring rod Add water into the container2bath and put for boiling @eat the bath upto *(-*/ degrees and add soap 2detergent %tir the solution and immerse fabric Add the 8A9@ and %oda ash into the solution @eat the bath upto '/ degrees for the scouring to start ?et the fabric be in the bath for the next --= hr. Neep stirring the solution and donTt keep the solution stagnant emove the fabric after --= hrs and dry the fabric.

.. PROCEDURE

5. OBSERCATIONS The colour of the fabric changes!the whiteness of the fabric as compared to The si$e of the fabric doesnTt change muh. desi$ed fabric is more.

6.RESULT The resultant fabric is %coured with waxes removed and d vegetable matter residues in the fabrics

42

E5%e&ime#t :
1. AIM OF EAPERIMENT3- To bleach a scoured sample of muslin fabric as a second preparatory process for dyeing process. 1. a. b. c. THEOR OF THE EAPERIMENT 1leaching is re"uired to obtain pure whiteness since fibers are seldom pure The bleaches are chemical agent or compounds that react with the color . #f the fabric is not properly bleached during preparation! it may retain its natural Re(i%e '0 t+e %&'(e)) a. b. c. @-9-- -) -. vol %odium silicate-. gpl p@-+(..-+(.;
43

white in their natural state compounds in the fiber! oxidi$e them and render them colorless.. color! which would distort the color of the fabric when dyes or pigments are added

d. e. :. a. b. c. d. e. f.

soda ash- as per p@ Baterial:li"uor ratio-+:-( MATERIAL REBUIRED ?arge container2bath %poon 4looves &hemicals- 8A9@!soap! soda ash >ater %tirring rod

.. PROCEDURE Add water into the container2bath and put for boiling @eat the bath upto *(-*/ degrees and add soap 2detergent %tir the solution and immerse fabric Add the 8A9@ and %oda ash into the solution @eat the bath upto '/ degrees for the scouring to start ?et the fabric be in the bath for the next --= hr. Neep stirring the solution and donTt keep the solution stagnant emove the fabric after --= hrs and dry the fabric.

5. OBSERCATIONS The colour of the fabric changes!the whiteness of the fabric as compared to
44

desi$ed fabric is more. The si$e of the fabric doesnTt change muh.

6.RESULT The resultant fabric is %coured with waxes removed and d vegetable matter residues in the fabrics

CONCLUSION
Pretreatment process of fabric constitutes an important stage in the textile industry. The colouring and the "uality of the finished textile depends to a large extent on the pretreatment processes. Thus! utmost care should be taken while selecting the proper preparatory treatments for the fabric.

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BIBLIO9RAPH *EBSITED EBOOKS3

$.

Te5ti!e %&e%"&"ti'# "#d dyei#$ By A)im Kum"& R'y C+'ud+u&y

+tt%3DDb''7).$''$!e.('.i#Db''7)E idFGT"mOb)""PBCH%$FPA5IIH!%$FPA5IIHd?Fim%'&t"#(eJ'0J%& e%"&"ti'#J%&'(e))Ji#Jdyei#$H)'u&(eFb!H't)FICGK"$IAmUH)i$F! 5 -NMHy 'm''4AtLLy?!EUR)4H+!Fe#HeiF1.6yS%*"H)"R!A0G=09MD4H)"FAH'iFb''7M&e)u!tH (tF&e)u!tH&e)#umFLN/Ft4'%"$eH?Fi#t&'du(ti'#O1Gt' O1G%&e%"&"t'&yO1G%&'(e))H0F0"!)e

2.

Te5ti!e te(+#'!'$yBy Bu&7+"&d *u!0+'&)t, T+'m") 9&ie), Diete& Ceit

+tt%3DDb''7).$''$!e.('.i#Db''7)EidF/BA7=d 62$CH%$FPA115H!%$FPA115Hd?FFELTIN9DMILLIN9JPROCESSH)' u&(eFb!H't)F?K!'eRE$DOH)i$F95!PU .G F'SLS28Ed5:td#*9&E H+!Fe#HeiFtdeyS).!B=9=)4PT!"ieDBH)"FAH'iFb''7M&e)u!tH(tF&e )u!tH&e)#umFIN/F'#e%"$eH?FH0F0"!)e.

BOOKS :. FIBER TO FABRIC- P.COBMANN

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