LESSON 15: SPECIALIZED CUTTING EQUIPMENTS & TRANSFERRING MARKS

Objectives: Cutting machines and their operations Recent development in equipments and techniques

Many types of specialized cutting machines are designed for specific operations and specific products. An example is a strip cutter, which may cut or cut and roll strips or bindings from knit tubular yardage, cut bias strips from wovens, or cut strips from vinyls or other fabrics. There are also strip cutters that measure and cut lengths of materials such as ribbons, tape, elastic, and strapping. The cutting device on a strip cutter may be as simple as a rotating blade that cuts as the product is forced against it. TRANSFERRING MARKS Marks and notches are transferred from markers to the perimeter or internal surfaces of garment parts to facilitate the sewing operation. Operators depend on marks for alignment, placement of parts, special treatment during the assembly process. When using operator-controlled cutting equipment, it is the cutter's responsibility to transfer the marks accurately to the cut garment parts. Computer-controlled cutters mark garment parts during the cutting process. Marks should not damage or discolor the visible parts of a garment. This is especially true with internal marks, but edge marks if incorrectly done can also cause seam damage. Marks must be accurately placed and readily visible for sewing operators until the specific sewing operation requiring the mark is completed. (i) Edge marks are made in a variety of ways, but a vertical straight knife or a hot notcher is commonly used. A small lateral cut into the lay with a straight knife is best suited to firm, smooth materials that do not ravel easily. This method of marking requires a perfectly vertical lay with no sloping, otherwise some pieces will be marked too deep, while others will not be marked at all. (ii) A hot notcher is a hand-held device with a vertical electrical element that scorches fabric at the point of contact. Temperature and notch depth are adjustable for the fabric. A hot notcher is a good choice for edge marks on natural fiber and knit fabrics as it makes clearly visible marks that do not disappear. When used properly, it does not cut, pucker, or

ravel the fabric. It is not a good choice for thermoplastic fibers. (iii) Internal marks are needed for alignment and positioning pieces such as pockets, overlays, and appliqus. Drills are used to mark an entire lay-up at one time. A drill is positioned on top of a lay-up. A motor rotates the needle, which penetrates the top ply and drills its way through to the bottom ply. Penetration is made by needles of varied diameter (3/64 to 3/8 inch) and point types. Some points actually cut a hole in the fabric which is easy for operator to locate but can cause problems in finished garments. Other types of drills carry a marking fluid or wax substance that will disappear in pressing. In some cases hot needles are used for marking. Firms that choose not to use drills for fear of damaging fabric may use mechanical thread-marking machines. These are slower but not as hard on the fabric or as messy. Another alternative is marking individual pieces or garments with a template and wax pen. This is the most time-consuming approach but it may be the most accurate.