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Contents
Acknowledgements vi
Introduction 1
This version of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
is dedicated to all my readers in the past who have cooked from the book,
shared it with others, and occasionally sent that note that makes the years spent
writing and cooking unquestionably worthwhile.
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Resources 650
Index 651
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262
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beans that are kidney shaped, about 1/2 inch long, cream colored with deep red splotches. A full-flavored, tannic bean,
it stands up well to lots of seasoning.
red split lentils, and Black Beluga are just some of the hundreds of lentils we see. Some are firm and hold up beautifully in a salad; others break down quickly. They are quicker
cooking than beans, but like beans, cook better and faster
after even a short soak.
best known for its role in succotash. Limas, both baby and
regular-size ones, are starchy, have a buttery texture and are
great with butter and herbs. Often they cook more quickly
than you expect, so keep an eye on them because they can
quickly disintegrate. Using a pressure cooker isnt advised:
theyre particularly foamy and can clog the valve. If skins are
removed once theyre cooked, theyre even nicer. Fresh and
frozen Limas are pale green; they dry to white. Christmas
Limas, an heirloom variety, are large and pale, mottled with
purple-red splotches.
Marrow beans: Small, round white beans that swell to a
navy beans have good flavor and are excellent for salads,
simmered dishes, or gratins. They can be used in place of
flageolets.
Peas: Split green and yellow are what we mostly see.
used the same way. They are closely linked to Santa Maria
Barbecue. Often found in Hispanic markets
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262
Madi_9781607745532_4p_c09gratins-c10beans_p240-291.indd 262-263
beans that are kidney shaped, about 1/2 inch long, cream colored with deep red splotches. A full-flavored, tannic bean,
it stands up well to lots of seasoning.
red split lentils, and Black Beluga are just some of the hundreds of lentils we see. Some are firm and hold up beautifully in a salad; others break down quickly. They are quicker
cooking than beans, but like beans, cook better and faster
after even a short soak.
best known for its role in succotash. Limas, both baby and
regular-size ones, are starchy, have a buttery texture and are
great with butter and herbs. Often they cook more quickly
than you expect, so keep an eye on them because they can
quickly disintegrate. Using a pressure cooker isnt advised:
theyre particularly foamy and can clog the valve. If skins are
removed once theyre cooked, theyre even nicer. Fresh and
frozen Limas are pale green; they dry to white. Christmas
Limas, an heirloom variety, are large and pale, mottled with
purple-red splotches.
Marrow beans: Small, round white beans that swell to a
navy beans have good flavor and are excellent for salads,
simmered dishes, or gratins. They can be used in place of
flageolets.
Peas: Split green and yellow are what we mostly see.
used the same way. They are closely linked to Santa Maria
Barbecue. Often found in Hispanic markets
263
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Sea salt
1/2 cup sour cream or Mexican crema
Sort through the beans, rinse, then cover with cold water
and set aside for 4 hours or overnight. When you start
cooking, drain them.
Bruise the seeds and berries in a mortar and chop the
onion. Warm the oil in a wide bottomed soup pot; add the
onions, coriander seeds, juniper berries, chili, and oregano. Cook over medium heat for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Add the drained beans to the pot along with
the fresh water. Bring to a boil for ten minutes then lower
the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Add the salt and
continue cooking until the beans are as tender as you like
themprobably another 30 minutes or longer at higher
altitudes. When done, taste for salt. Serve the beans in a
bowl with their broth.
Drain the beans, put them in a soup pot with the water,
and gradually bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that rises
to the surface; then lower the heat, add the onion, and
simmer gently for 30 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt and
continue cooking over low heat until the beans are soft,
another 30 minutes or so.
Once the beans are cooked, put them through a food mill or
puree them in a blender. Return them to the pot and stir in
the cream, adding 1/2 cup or more, as you like. Taste for salt.
Serve garnished with the copped nuts, chives, and the mint.
black. There are many more lentil varieties in the world than
were likely to see at home. Most common are the German
lentils, actually shades of brown and green, but I much
prefer the smaller dark green French lentils from Le Puy.
They hold their shape better, which makes them ideal for
salads. They have a wonderful deep clean flavor, and they
look marvelous on the plate. French green lentils are available at specialty foods stores and natural foods stores, often
in bulk. Because they taste and look so good, theyre called
for in most lentil recipes, but brown lentils can, of course,
be used in their place. Of the more than 50 varieties of colorful Egyptian and Indian lentils, many are also available at
natural foods stores and Indian and Mediterranean markets. Those that are split cook quickly and disintegrate into
creamy-textured soups or purees.
Lentils are used endlessly in soups, often punctuated with
greens of various kinds. They make wonderfuI salads and
provide an interesting counterpoint when mixed with pasta
or rice. Split lentils are cooked into fragrant Indian dals or
mixed with rice to make a dish called kichuri, and Indian
cookbooks are a rich source of lentil recipes. The broth that
remains when lentils are drained for salads makes a homely
but invigorating drink. Just heat it up and add a teaspoon of
cream or milk to each cup along with some snipped chives
and parsley. If theres enough to serve as soup, include
some thinly sliced croutons or cooked rice. Although usually
thought of as winter fare, with the right seasonal accompaniments lentils can be enjoyed year-round.
Basic Lentils
This is the basic method for cooking brown and green lentils.
Serve them as a side dish or, keeping them slightly on the firm
side, use them for lentil salads. Warm lentils are delicious
served with olive oil or butter. Serves 4 to 6 v
1 1/2 cups brown or green lentils, sorted, rinsed, and soaked
for 1 hour
1 onion, quartered
2 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery rib, finely diced
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
Freshly milled pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil, roasted walnut oil, or butter
Red wine vinegar
Chopped parsley or chervil, for garnish
Drain the lentils, then put in a soup pot, cover with 6 cups
cold water, and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that
rises, then add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, carrot, celery,
and 11/2 teaspoons salt. Lower the heat and simmer until
tender but still a little firmthey shouldnt be mushy
about 25 minutes. Strain and reserve the broth for soup
stock. Remove the onion, garlic, and bay leaves, taste for
salt, and season with pepper. Stir in the oil and add a few
drops vinegar to bring up the flavor. Garnish with parsley
and serve.
and peas I always dothey taste better and cook in 25 minutes. They take from 25 to 60 minutes to cook unsoaked. You
neednt be fearful about adding salt at the beginning of their
short cooking time. In fact, this helps bring out their flavors.
Like other legumes, lentils and peas need to be cleaned of
debris and rinsed before cooking. French lentils especially
seem to come with a good many pieces of chalky pebbles.
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Souffls
Few dishes are as dramatic as a souffl. The whole dish swells like an enormous inhalation
then, within moments of serving, collapses. In spite of such drama, souffls are not at
all difficult to make. You simply make a stiff bchamel, beat in egg yolks, add cheese and/
or other fillings, and finally fold in billowy whisked egg whites. Vegetable souffls incorporate a cup or so of pureed vegetable into the base. They dont rise quite as high but are
still impressive. A pudding souffl is the same dish baked in a water bath, which tempers
the rise but also slows the fall, giving the cook some leeway for serving as well as the further
advantage of reheating. Roulades are souffls baked flat in sheet pans ( jelly roll pans), then
rolled around a filling and sliced or, if you prefer, cut into strips, stacked, and served like
a soft, savory Napoleon.
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Freshly milled pepper
Pinch cayenne
4 egg yolks
1 cup (about 4 ounces) crumbled goat cheese, preferably
a Bucheron or other strong-flavored cheese
Several plump thyme sprigs, leaves only
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6 egg whites
Vegetable Souffls
While spinach and eggs form a classic alliance, other vegetables make handsome additions to a souffl base too.
They should be cooked, seasoned, and finely chopped or
pureed before being folded into the base along with the egg
yolks. Add the cheese, whisk in the whites, and bake in a
6-cup souffl dish, individual ramekins, or a gratin dish as
described.
tips into the base. For the cheese, use fontina or Gruyre.
the water clinging to them until tender, then finely chop and
season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. For cheese,
stay with the goat cheese or use Fontina, Gruyre, or cheddar. You can use other greens as wellchard and tender kale
come to mind.
Winter Squash Souffl: Fold in 1 to 2 cups pureed baked
winter squash (or sweet potatoes) into the base and for
cheese use fontina or Gruyre. Crumble fried sage leaves
over the top as soon as it comes out of the oven.
souffls
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Pita Sandwiches
Supper Sandwiches
Freshly baked pita breadtender, pliable, and fragrant with the scent of wheatis one of
the most delicious containers for fillings, albeit a fairly fragile one. With its nourishing taste
and ancient feel, pita bread is worth making at home on occasionpage 598. Otherwise,
look to Middle Eastern and Mediterranean bakeries for fresh pita.
The following knife-and-fork sandwiches are fine fare for supperlunch, too, if you eat
at home, but theyre definitely not the kind to carry to work. These sandwiches are warm,
full of vegetables, and satisfying to eat. Similar to Italian bruschetta and, to a degree, those
homey American classics such as creamed mushrooms on toast and Welsh rarebit.
Pita with Broiled Eggplant: Broil or grill rounds of eggplant. Tuck them into pita bread and spoon in Yogurt
Sauce with Cayenne and Dill (page 57). Serve with a dish
of olives or diced Preserved Lemon (page 70).
Pita with Fried Zucchini: Fry sliced zucchini in a little olive
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Sandwiches
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supper sandwiches
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Tabbouleh
Tabbouleh should be so saturated with parsley that its moist
and intensly greenpractically a parsley salad.
Serves 4 to 6 v
Sea salt
Perfect whole lettuce or radicchio leaves
lane sprigs. v
Madi_9781607745532_4p_c05sandwich-c08stews_p104-239.indd 154-155
Serves 4
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Garnishes
1/2 cup small cubes feta or goat cheese
2 hard-cooked eggs, quartered
12 kalamata olives
I cucumber, cut into short spears
Put the bulgur in a bowl, cover it with water, and let stand
until the water is absorbed and the grains are soft, about
30 minutes. Press out any excess liquid, return the bulgur
to the bowl, and toss with half of the lemon juice, the scallions, tomatoes, parsley, and mint. Let stand again for 20 to
30 minutes for the grains to soften fully.
hearty salads based on pasta, grains, and beans
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