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Patten Sheet Metal Works Imperial Electric W. W. Cassell
Fresno, Calif. El Centra, Calif. Tucson, Arizona
MAY, 1938
IF LOVE IS THERE YOU CAME TO ME
By Lois Elder Steiner By Marty Hale
Salome, Arizona Steubenville, Ohio
Even a desert a heaven can be A barren field of sandy waste.
Without so much as the shade of a tree, The desert stretched with blinding glare—
I! love is there. For miles the heat-waves spiraled up,
A smile and a kiss at the close of the day; No cooling breath of life seemed there;
Heaven just can't be far away, Yet God had not forgotten . . . for
Not if you care. Where grassless sod and vastness loomed,
That we might know, and ever feel
There's heaven in even the sand at your feet; His hand . . . He placed a cactus-bloom.
It's not always in places where angels CREED OF THE DESERT
meet— My dusty trail along life's path,
I t s ANYWHERE! By J U N E LE M E R T PAXTON So like the desert did it seem,
The years stretched out in emptiness,
Nature is Peace, and in blessing Anci scorched and seared was every dream;
For those who have gone astray. But God remembered once again . . .
CALICO—1885—1905 Like jewels in a rosary.
By Alice Richards Salisbury She covers with sand in graceful Mote wonderful than cactus-bloom.
Daggett, California waves Sweet as your song—YOU came to me!
The mistakes of yesterday.
Bare mountains rise, deep-dyed in lusty hues—
Chrome yellow, turquoise, russet, rose and
green !
Dark crag and shadowed mesa, deep ravine DESERT MOON
DESERT EYES
Am! peak parade across horizon blues. By Sheila O'Neill
By Doris I. Bateman Winnemucca, Nevada
Benign they brood, nor note the far-flung Redondo Beach, California
news The desert moon rides low tonight,
Of treasure-trove. Now MEN are here, men I see his eyes—this man who knows the hills Great golden globe of mystery,
lean And calls them Mother—blue, they are, and Above the purple hills she peers
And hard and eager. A score of years they pale Across a gray-green sagebrush sea.
glean As if long staring in the sun distils
The metal Ages stamped from primal ooze. For him the sparse-flung beauty of the trail; The desert moon rides low tonight,
And then the tumult of their warring lives And in their half-translucent depths two As far as awakened eye can see
Dissolves. The bite of drill no longer rives points Her magic glory filters down
Red hills. Shy lizards man the ramp Of light pierce far into the mystery And banishes reality.
Where that intrepid band once came to camp Of his beloved desert which anoints
In cave and tent and hovel walled from mud. His nomad soul and sets it reaching, free.
Across their burial-ground, coyotes scud! Baffling, his eyes, for while their nameless RAIN IN THE DESERT
quest
Lies still unanswered in his pallid gaze, By Alwilda S. Draper
SURCEASE The) take unto themselves a manifest Artesia, California
Communion with the ageless nights and days:
By Zee Leland All mountain lore is his, yet wordless Rain in the desert.
Fitful, gusty spray,
Ajo, Arizona speaking
Over dune and canyon,
Turns inward, while his eyes are seeking—
From teeming haunts of men I came— seeking. Master for a day.
Heart-sick and ill— • • • Rain in the desert,
From river, lake, and trees, and green Gray mists bending low,
Low-sloping hill. PEGLEG MINE
Caress the shifting sand dunes
M.'le after mile—through city, town, and plain K. V. Bennis Veiling the sun's hot glow.
I sped—and wept, and prayed aloud with pain Temecula, Calif. Tempest of little waters
Nor found surcease. Well, stranger, you put an ide' in my head, Never find the sea
Long hours of night and then the morning Or leastwise it come to me 'count of you said Rushing madly for a moment
came. Somewhere, in these parts, was a mighty rich Then lost eternally.
The waking sun stretch'd rosy fingers up,
Grasped firm the mountain top, and pulled ledge
herself Just lousy with gold from the heart to the
To look towards the west, edge.
Shrugging aside soft downs of gray, and pink, Discovered, way back in the pioneer days,
By a feller named Smith, so the old story says. HOUSE OF 'DOBE
And orchid—bound with gold.
To west—the mountains slipped o'er reaching It seems to me, stranger, right careless of you By Louise C. Rutz
To tell me all this, for shucks, if it's true
heads
I reckon I'd better be looking around. Las Cruces, N. M.
Soft underthings of hazy blues and reds,
That doggoned old ledge might be right on
Then cast o'er all a cloak of purple mist It's a house of earth in New Mexico
my ground.
To wear throughout the day. Where the sun beats down and the dust clouds
Well folks, I've sure hunted a heap for that
Below and far beyond my weary feet rock. blow
The golden desert sands, with shift and swell, My wife's plum disgusted; she don't take no Where fluted peaks of the Rockies rise
Whispered of things untold and ages past, stock With purple spires to pierce the skies.
And long since gone from man. In them kind of yarns, says it's only a myth,
There never was nobody called Pegleg Smith. A house of adobe with mud troweled walls,
Minute blue blossoms smiled and laid a mat Now I've got a notion that story is true; Rough hewn vigas and cool dark halls.
On which they bade me stay a while and rest. I've met lots of fellows that think the same, Hand carved beams, a blanket gay
Lite-giving sunlight flooded all the world too. And a louvred door in the entry-way.
Warming my inmost chill. Somf of them's hunted a heap more than me
Soriows, and ills, and heartbreak slipped away; But nobody's found it and no two agree. A house of clay and straw and sand
Peace bathed my weary soul! Now I'm goin' at it in the way, instead But fashioned with patience and skill of hand
No trace of man defaced this wondrous spot. Of usin' my feet, I'll be usin' my head. To the firm content of the earth itself
All nature chimed sweet morning notes of One of these days when I have some more gas In sage-brush and sun on a mesa shelf.
praise, I'll fill my old truck and go out thru the pass.
Of Hope, and Love, and Strength, and Peace When I hit the city I'll start lookin' 'round The massive walls turn the desert heat
—ALWAYS. To see if some kin of old Peg can be found. And hold back the worry and cares that beat
I stood alone with God— I'm goin' to find out what they have to say, From the outside world like winds that blow
Surcease! IF I find a Smith in that town of L. A. On my house of earth in New Mexico.
T h e DESERT M A G A Z I N E
HONORABLE MENTION:
J. P. Knipp, Long Beach, "Joshua Bloom" GoaclveUa
Nicholas N. Kozloff, Riverside, First prize picture in the amateur photographers' contest held
"Painted Canyon" by Desert Magazine in April. Picture taken by A. Wieder-
John E. Lanz, Glendale, seder of 153 Manor Street, Altadena, California, with 5x7
"Hedgehog Cactus" Cycle Graphic camera, one second exposure, stop 15, K-2
filter, at four p. m.
Acoma
This picture of the " S k y City" of N e w Mexico w a s a w a r d e d s e c o n d prize in the April contest. P h o t o g r a p h e d
b y R a l p h H. A n d e r s o n of Yosemite National Park. T a k e n with 31/2x41/4 Graflex, 1/25 sec. at fll K-2 filter.
JUNE, 1938
By JOHN STEWART MacCLARY
/ " ^ N a blistering mid-August day in
I T 1909 a little cavalcade threaded
its way along an obscure Indian
trail which led across northern Arizona
and into southern Utah.
John Wetherill was the guide who rode
ahead. Behind him came Dr. Byron Cum-
IUNE, 1938
Last December Walter Ford was awarded a
prize by the Desert Magazine for a picture
taken in Hidden Valley in the Joshua Tree Na-
tional Monument of Southern California. When
the picture was published inquiries began to
come in "Where is Hidden Valley and how
may I find it?" The answer is given by Ford
himself in the accompanying article. It is an
answer which will interest all those who like to
get away from the paved highways and visit
the remote corners of the undisturbed desert.
Ridden I/a//,
—Temp u
ojj Muitetij
Visitors to Hidden Valley have the choice o\ By WALTER FORD
scaling the rocky walls which surround it, or
crawling through a tunnel, the entrance of
which is shown in the accompanying picture.
JJ T *O\J have to crawl through a scene. Galleta grass grew in abundance. of the precipitous trail over which they
IF narrow tunnel to reach the val- The water problem was solved by build- drove their stolen cattle, but a narrow
' y ley." The speaker gazed reflec- ing reservoirs or "tanks" to catch the tunnel still affords access to one of the
' tively at the campfire and con- rainfall. As the cattle operations spread most picturesque spots in the Southwest.
tinued, "I reckon it's pretty safe to go in out it was inevitable that the gentry whose From the huge stone figure of a bird
there nowadays, but back in the 70 s a livelihood was gained by extra - legal which appears to stand guard over the
feller that wanted to remain healthy gave methods should make their entry. Inac- outside entrance, to the granite bull high
the valley a wide berth!" cessibility of the region made it ideal for upon a rocky abutment at the western
We had camped for the night at Quail their calling. Here stolen livestock could end of the valley, a fantastic array of
Springs in the Joshua Tree National be kept from the eyes of the law until it stone figures meets the eye of the visitor.
Monument of Southern California. In the could be driven across the Arizona border Foremost among these is the "Trojan,"
little group seated around our campfire and sold. a grim-visaged resemblance to a warrior
was one of those hopeful patriarchs of the "I said that you have to crawl through of ancient Troy, which adorns the inside
desert whose strike is always just one day a tunnel to reach the valley," the old wall at the right of the entrance. A few
ahead—tomorrow, and tomorrow. From prospector resumed, "but when those rus- feet away another figure appears in the
tales fanciful and real of lost mines, bo- tler fellers were active they built a regu- making, crude as yet, but sharply enough
nanza strikes and frontier justice, the talk lar stairway for their cattle on the south defined as an iceman with a block of ice
turned to cattle, cattle rustlers, and to the side of the valley. There is a steep wash on his shoulder. Because of its perfect
activities of the thieving fraternity in the cut through the rocky walls from the outline and the commanding position it
area in which we were then camped. floor of the valley to the desert outside. occupies, the stone bull presents perhaps
Although it was overlooked by the When they were moving their stolen the most startling figure in the area and,
Forty-Niners during the first gold rush, plunder those rascals would move enough incidentally, a challenge to those who take
the territory which comprises the newly boulders to make it passable, and then pride in their ability as mountain climb-
created Joshua Tree playground drew roll them back into place." ers. Access to the figure is not easy. The
many gold seekers during the following This was my introduction to Hidden way leads over huge boulders with spaces
years. After the miners had dispersed to Valley. The rustlers are no more. Time up to several feet between them. But if
other fields, cattlemen appeared on the and the elements have removed all traces one has the sure-footedness of a mountain
HIDDEN VALLE
ENTRANCE 600*
FROM ROAD
* W F o VI 0
JUNE, 1938
One might easily imagine that a race of prehistoric giants piled boulder on
ply, "Injun no live here." Whether the boulder in the creation of the granite walls which surround Hidden Valley.
failure of my guide to reveal the history
of the valley was due to some ancestral ta-
boo, or to just plain ignorance of his sur- TO A M A T E U R
roundings, I was not able to determine. If
the former, it may be affirmed that Old
John did nobly in keeping the taboo in-
tact.
PRIZES
Increasing numbers of camera
PHOTOGRAPHERS
ert Magazine office by June 20.
For those lovers of the desert to whom fans are entering pictures each 2—Not more than four prints
the beaten path has become common- month in the contest conducted by may be submitted by one person in
place, and who feel that there are no new the D e s e r t M a g a z i n e . These one month.
trails, a trip into Hidden Valley should monthly contests are open to all 3—Winners will be required to
prove a revelation. With its bizarre ex- amateurs and the range of subjects furnish either good glossy enlarge-
amples of Nature's handiwork, its thrill- includes close-ups of plant and ani- ments or the original negatives if
ing possibilities of additional discoveries, mal life, desert homes and gardens, requested.
and the restful isolation that its location odd rock formations, landscapes, 4—Prints must be in black and
affords, the valley will undoubtedly take unusual personal pictures with a white, 2Vix3Vi or larger.
its place as one of the most attractive desert slant. 5—Pictures will be returned only
spots in the whole desert area. Prizes are $5.00 for first and when postage is enclosed.
Hidden Valley may be reached by fol- $3.00 for second place winners. For non-prize-winning pictures
lowing the Quail Springs road where it Composition, lighting, focus and accepted for publication $1.00 will
branches off to the right from the Twen- other fine points of photography be paid for each print.
ty-Nine Palms highway, 29.2 miles from are no less important than subject. Winners of the June contest will
U. S. highway 99. Six and three-tenths Recently the Desert Magazine ob- be announced and the pictures pub-
miles beyond Quail Springs the road forks tained two fine cover pictures from
lished in the August number of the
to the left to join the Twenty-Nine Palms among the prints submitted by the
amateurs. magazine.
to Mecca road. Continue along that road Address all entries to:
seven-tenths of a mile where the car may Following are the rules govern-
be parked and the rest of the journey ing the contest: CONTEST EDITOR,
made afoot. The tunnel entrance may be 1—Pictures submitted in the June DESERT MAGAZINE,
found approximately 600 feet from the contest must be received at the Des- El Centra, Calif.
road.
ok tin
JUNE, 1938
ueen o\fitke a UT on my desert homestead west
of Tucson, Arizona, as I watch my
Night-Blooming Cereus cacti de-
velop and make ready for another blos-
soming, I am inclined to agree with the
Papagos that, truly, a Great Spirit walks
10 T h e DESERT MAGAZINE
the night the blossom continues to widen trast accent the extreme delicacy of the shade in my cactus garden, and by screen-
and elongate until it is said to reach its flower. ing them well, I find that I may enjoy
maximum size and the fullest perfection Silvery pollen, powdery as star dust, the blossoms in all their loveliness until
of its beauty in the hour before dawn. rests lightly on the stamens which extend about 8:30 to 9:00 o'clock in the morn-
Watching the blooming of a Cereus is an inch above the blossom to form a ing before they begin to droop.
a wonderful and never-to-be-forgotten ex- corona about which moths hover. As the petals start to close, the en-
perience. The large white petals sweep Like its near-relative, the Giant Sahua- chanting nectar, as if drawn out by the
back in amazingly wide arcs before one's ro, the flowers are funnel-shaped; but sun, increases in quantity, attracting wild
very eyes. Large, white moths flutter out with the petals infinitely more graceful desert bees which take the place of the
of the desert moonlight, hover near and and recurved. The cactus stems are also night moths in continuing the pollinating
drink the nectar of that exquisite fra- fluted, as in the case of its giant relative. process.
grance, making of our patio an enchanted When the first rays of the rising sun I have often wondered why someone
place. touch our Cereus, she begins to droop doesn't give us the perfume of the Night-
The blossom, measuring from three and like a sleepy child, and her petals close. Blooming Cereus so that we might enjoy
one-half to almost six inches across and The blossoms, normally, are tight-shut it the whole year through, instead of on
before noon. just the magic night. Perhaps the rela-
from seven to nine inches long, is a soft
tive rarity of the cactus may preclude this.
waxen white with slender gracefully- My finest photographs are not taken at The Night-Blooming Cereus is so very
pointed petals. The lovely white under- night, but shortly before the rising sun fragrant that one blossom will perfume a
petals are faintly tinged with shadowy peers over the mountain. By transplant-
lavender, blending to soft maroon tints ing my Night-Blooming Cereus in the Continued on page 35
near the stem, which gives the flower a
distinctive, rather exotic appearance.
These tints merge into the brown of the
ovary and calyx tube and into the brown-
ish-green fluted stems. A few slight pink-
ish bracts grow on the under side of the
blossom. The dark, spiny stems by con-
CEREUS BLOOMS
By the author of the
decompanyina article
All is still
As in death . . . quiet
Only a perfume,
A perfume seeping through darkness,
A hidden perfume
Haunting us, telling us
A Cereus has bloomed.
JUNE, 193 11
iifit ofi the Q
enii
ii By WILFRED PARKS
/ ^ N THE beginning of time, an Earth Magician sat —each veil tenuous and illusive, so that man may see
y in his enchanted grotto surrounded by the Seven it always as a pageant of mysterious color."
Fairies of Creation. They were pondering their The sixth Fairy Genius considered sadly: "What is
next gift to man. Many beautiful projects had been there left for me to do? You have done everything;
considered, but none seemed suitable to the moment. nothing else can be added, unless . . . ah! I will cast
Finally the Earth Magician spoke: over all a profound silence, so that man may find
"I will cleave a great chasm deep in the earth, peace in his soul as he stands at the brink of the preci-
deeper than any other earthly gorge, that man may pice."
have something to wonder at." They turned then to regard the seventh one, who sat
"And I," said the first Fairy Genius, "will write on in silent contemplation, undismayed. They wondered
the walls of this gorge the Story of Geology, that man what might be his final contribution. At last the Fairy
may learn the history of our work." Genius spoke:
"I," said the second Fairy Genius, "will toil with in-
finite pains with the Chisel of Erosion, so that man may "And I will give to this Beauty, Grandeur and Mys-
learn the architecture of the elements." tery a dream quality, so that none can capture its exact
The third Fairy Genius proposed: "Let me put in the image to take away with him for the purpose of barter
bottom of this wonderful chasm a silver stream, more or trade."
beautiful in its setting than any precious metal, so that Thus the making of the gift began. Year followed
man may be humble in his desires." year, to the hundred, to the thousand, to the million.
"Then," said the fourth Fairy Genius, "I will put Perennial floods cut their way down through the sleep-
along the glorious rim of this gorge a purple garland ing strata. Snows and frost expanded minute particles
of cedar and pine with their silhouetted tips reaching on the shoulders of the cliffs, thaws crumbled them,
mutely toward the violet canopy of the sky, a symbol and rain washed them away. Contributing to the task
of hope, for man to see." was the sun1 s everlasting smile, while always at their
After a moment of thought, the fifth Fairy Genius lacework were the careful fingers of the wind. And
said: "When you have done all this work, I will grace when it was done, man came and gazed at all this ma-
its breadth and depth with morning and evening veils jestic loveliness, and called it the GRAND CANYON.
By JOHN W. HILTON
*< / H PETRIFIED flower!" That is there were areas on the desert where they where they are deposited after having
/ / what the old prospector called are not at all uncommon. weathered out of rocks. Although they
' it and little wonder that he did, Later, in the library I learned that chal- were formed in rock which was very hot
for it resembled nothing so much as a cedony is a fine grained or cryptocrystal- and their general shape resembles the
camellia. This stone (for stone it was) line form of quartz and gets its name melted wax they were named for, it is
had the appearance of having been carved from a Greek word meaning wax. highly improbable they were a molten
by some expert oriental craftsman. It had mass themselves. The evidence points
As a lad in school, the idea of roaming rather to the theory that as the lavas be-
the fine silky polish of an old piece of over the desert described by my prospec- gan to solidify, hot silica jell condensed
jade. tor friend and seeking these strange and out of the gases and formed these odd
He had brought it to me from the Ari- beautiful stones had a great fascination shaped masses in the cavities and seams
zona desert. He knew that such an odd for me. From that day I have been deep- of the rock.
and pretty stone would be a welcome ad- ly interested in these graceful little rose-
ates of chalcedony. After reading every- Although no two of them are ever
dition to my collection. shaped alike, still their composition is
thing available in the school library I felt
The next day at school my chemistry that I knew all about how they were quite similar, indicating that some defi-
teacher identified it as a chalcedony formed. But today I would not care to nite law of crystallization is involved in
"rose" and explained that the concentric venture an opinion on the subject. There their formation. I have noticed that dif-
arrangement resembling petals was due to is an element of mystery that has never ferent localities run to definite types,
an attempt at crystallization on the part of been explained to my satisfaction. showing that these laws must have been
the silica of which it was composed. She I do know they are found in igneous modified by varying temperatures and
had seen others of this type and said rock, or in alluvial fans and washes other conditions. One notable variation
JUNE. 193 8 13
seems to hold true. Those found in the tract rather than add to their individual west and north sides except to the most
fissures of rock are of the very smooth character. A small diamond drill-hole to skilled climbers.
type, showing little if any actual crystals attach them to a chain is all the prepara- Occasionally a pretty roseate may be
on their surface. Those found in the tion necessary to make an interesting and picked up far down on the slopes of the
floors of gas pockets, although they may beautiful piece of jewelry. mountain. Specimens also are found on
resemble in general shape the fissure the gravel slopes at the south and east
In my wandering about the desert I base of the Cargo Muchacho mountains
stones, have a tendency toward definite have encountered this mineral in perhaps in eastern Imperial county, California, al-
crystallization. These crystals range in 20 or 30 localities. There are probably though they are by no means plentiful
size from microscopic crusts resembling hundreds more that have not been re- there.
frost, to brilliant little gems a quarter of corded or studied. I would be interested
if any of my desert readers would send The value of this form of chalcedony
an inch long. Whether the crystals are depends largely on its attractiveness for
large or small they are arranged in con- me information about chalcedony roses
in their vicinity. I would like to use this display and souvenir purposes. Gem cut-
centric form following the general out- ters prefer other forms of chalcedony for
material to compile a map of our south-
line of the rose. marketable stones. Nature has done such
west desert area, shading the portions
where they are known to occur. a lovely job of casting these roseates it
There also seems to be quite a color would be rather presumptuous for man to
variation but so far I have not examined One of the places where fissures in the seek to improve their natural beauty.
any of a very bright hue. Most of them rock yield very beautiful specimens of
are either white or just off white running chalcedony roseates is along the ridge at
through pale pinks, orchids, greens, blues the top of the Kofa (S. H.) mountains in NEW GEODE FIELD IS
and light tans. A few have markings in Arizona between Yuma and Quartzsite. FOUND NEAR 29 PALMS
concentric lines of light orange or rust Since it requires a strenuous 2500-foot
color but these are not common. climb to reach the ridge, it is not likely A new geode field in which some of
this field will be over-crowded with col- the stones contained crystals ranging from
It is surprising what a beautiful and lectors. For those who are interested, pale green to black green recently was
interesting collection could be made of however, the ascent of the Kofa massif discovered by a group of gem-hunters re-
just this one mineral formation. Single should be undertaken from the northeast siding in the 29 Palms area of Southern
pieces may also be used for paper weights, approach. Kofa is inaccessible on the California.
ash trays, match holders or other decora- Following up arroyos 25 miles north of
tive objects, depending upon their size 29 Palms where specimens of agate have
Typical chalcedony roseates found been found, members of the party came
and shape. Some of the small smooth in many places on the desert. At the to embankments of pink clay conglomer-
specimens make lovely charms or pen- left a specimen taken from a fissure ate and discovered the geodes in their
dants. These do not require polishing or and at right one which had been dis- original matrix. A number of fine speci-
cutting as in most cases this would de- lodged and was picked up in an mens were collected by those in the group.
anoyo.
Smoki <?Lan
By OREN ARNOLD
PRESIDENT Roosevelt were to zona, known as the Smoki People. They generation of Indians were dying, and
offer me a place in his cabinet and are world renowned; the chamber of young Redskins were taking more to pale-
a million dollars to dance publicly or commerce there has seen to that. But face ways. Aboriginal art would die with
otherwise while holding live snakes in my they do not thus make savages of them- the old timers. The white folk of Pres-
hands and mouth, I would turn him selves just for advertising. Nor is their cott set about the difficult task of pre-
down and join the Republican party. But performance any sort of travesty. It is serving this art before it was too late.
I know at least 40 or 50 otherwise nor- quite unlike anything else anywhere in Two dozen or so of the whites signed
mal white Americans who do dance pub- the whole world of the dance. up for it. They had an idea it might be
licly with reptiles in their hands and fun. It was. But it was exacting work,
The Smoki Snake Dance was originated
mouths—and call it art! too. They thought of dropping it, but
in 1921 as a little Trades Day entertain-
Moreover, I have no doubt it is art. It ment on the village green. But the trad- western folks are not quitters; tradition
certainly isn't letters. Or science. Or ing that day was forgotten because of the will not permit that.
horseplay. It is an extremely serious non- bizarre nature of the entertainment, and Next they made it even harder on
profit matter to them, and they make imaginative citizens straightway set out to themselves by imposing the mask of
preparations and rehearse for weeks in make the dance an institution to perpetu- anonymity. That is, each Smoki swore
advance. They are sensible business and ate ancient American Indian ceremonials. never to reveal his membership in con-
professional men — salesmen, doctors, nection with his personal business, never
"Let us study the rituals of Southwest- to try to capitalize on it, never to claim
lawyers, grocers, dry goods merchants, car ern Indians," they said, "and do what we prestige because of affiliation with the
dealers, neighbors all. They go to church can to preserve them, recording the chants strange clan. To this day the full mem-
and honor the flag and love little chil- and songs, studying and re-enacting the bership list has been published only once,
dren. In short, they apparently are quite dance rhythms ourselves; otherwise these —and a storm of protest followed.
American and sane. manifestations of real American art soon Look at the base of the left thumb of
Very likely you will know I refer to will be lost forever." a man in Prescott. If you see a blue tat-
that amazing citizenry in Prescott, Ari- It was a meritorious plan. The older tooed dot there, he has danced one year
JUNE, 19 3 8 15
in the Smoki Snake Dance. If two dots, The Hopi Indians in their age-old really the superficial part of this amazing-
two years. dances use venomous rattlesnakes with dance ceremony. The rhythm and intri-
Some now have six or eight dots and poison fangs intact, but that's another cate pattern of the dance itself demand
story. The Prescott Smoki handle only the practice. The first Smokis had to be self-
are very proud of them. These are the
non-poisonous bull or gopher snakes, taught. No Broadway dancing master
only badges of membership. Question
coach whips, chicken snakes, and some- could be hired, because these were reli-
one of these men, and he will answer you times an old rattler which has been doc- gious dances of the Indians, and even yet
impersonally. They appoint a clan chief tored. Those Smoki snakes do bite, how- the Indians resent the white man's adopt-
to answer questions. For such publicity ever. Incensed, frightened, they strike ing their rites. Persons who have seen
as the chamber of commerce considers in- their men at every rehearsal and every an Indian dance under the stars will know
dispensable mimeographed releases are is- dance, puncturing naked shoulders, arms, that it is a long, rhythmical, complicated
sued to the press. This is one show that is chests, occasionally a man's cheeks. I thing, with intricate steps by individuals,
better than the ballyhoo; those who maintain that takes—let us say, fortitude and with strange routines by what pale-
motor 100 or 200 or 500 miles to seethe —on the part of the men. faces would term the ensemble or the
Dances feel that they have made a pil- Novices in the Smoki clan of course chorus. The group moves in perfect
grimage infinitely worth while. In these are squeamish. They are told, though, unison, with no orchestral accompani-
columns recently, Virginia Duncan lauded that a snake is really clean. He may be ment save that of tom-toms and chanting.
the Dons of Phoenix for their unselfish washed, and become more sanitary than A man cannot go out before breakfast and
contribution to southwestern culture in a cat or dog, or than human fingers which learn to do that. He must work at it,
the annual Superstition Mountain Lost are eternally in germs! He is cold to the slave at it, skip lodge to practice it, for-
Gold Trek, and urged that more enter- touch, which is the first shock, but this sake the family fireside to rehearse it, ne-
prises of this nature be sponsored. Ap- "snakiness" is a god-given thing just as glect his business to travel around and
plauding that, I would like to add the is the dancer's warmth. Come to think of steep himself in it. That's why my hat's
Smoki People of Prescott to the hall of it, the snake probably imagines that the off to the Smoki. They are GOOD, and
honor reserved for those who are preserv- man is obnoxious too; and it is absolute- they didn't get that way by accident.
ing the finest traditions of the desert ly certain that the snake is more afraid of
the man than the man is of the snake. In Occasionally some hypercritical specta-
frontier.
time, doubtless, they evolve a mutual re- tor is heard lamenting this "travesty on
The amazing circumstance of staid busi- spect. the Indian dances." He will look unctu-
ness men turning savage always evokes Membership in the Smoki People has ously at the program, fleck a bit of honest
discussion. What spiritual overhauling is become the highest social honor that a dust off his Manhattan lapel, and ask,
required for a civilized white man to strip Prescott citizen can have. Almost anybody "How would you like it if some foreign
off his clothing, dress and paint him- with a friend can join the Rotary, the Ki- race mocked your Catholic High Mass, or
self like a savage, and hop around with wanis, the Lions, the Country Club. But your Protestant ritual of the Lord's Sup-
a snake in his mouth. only a man willing to devote long hours per?"
to reading and rehearsing his dance part Well, he would have something there
The answer is not easy. The genus ho-
can join the Smoki. Sometimes young- —if the Smoki People were MOCKING.
mo has been desperately afraid of snakes sters are admitted to the rehearsals, so
since Adam and Eve had their encounter But they aren't. They are re-enacting.
that they may start training early and de-
with one. Even the utterly harmless velop exceptional skill. If the whites' High Mass or Commun-
grass snakes cause terror in most yards, ion ceremony were in danger of being lost
and a man must rationalize himself force- Because, you see, handling snakes is
and forgotten, then the Hopi Indians
fully before he will handle one of the To the cadence of Indian Tom- would be rendering a service to civiliza-
things. But the men of Prescott do it. toms the Smokis stage the Arrow tion and human knowledge by trying
Dance
\\\ V \
JUNE, 1938 17
Here's one spot on the edge of the desert
where it is always raining—in the San Jacinto
tunnel of the Colorado river aqueduct. Water
pouring in from the roof and walls in parts of
the 13-mile bore has been a terrific obstacle to
engineers and workmen. It was no simple
problem for Will N. Fox, photographer for the
Metropolitan Water District, to secure this and
other pictures accompanying this story.
—^-AHQUITZ, devil-god of the Ca- first rock on the mountainside south of work remain on the three plants. On
/ huillas, hides in his cave among the Banning as the Metropolitan Water Dis- May 15 it was estimated that the aque-
high peaks of San Jacinto mountain trict of Southern California began the gi- duct was 85 per cent completed. But the
and grumbles. Many years ago, accord- gantic task of bringing Colorado river San Jacinto tunnel, first to be started, will
ing to legend, he warned his dusky neo- water to the Pacific coast. Every day since be the last section finished. Nearly 80
phytes who occupied the desert canyons that blast in May, 1933, old Tahquitz has
to the east that any who dared transgress rumbled his protest, and every day the miles of tunnel have been completed on
the sanctity of the mountain would come white men have battled their way against other parts of the aqueduct but only a lit-
to grief. tle over 11 miles have been penetrated in
seemingly insurmountable obstacles.
Indians still believe in the legend of San Jacinto. Is it any wonder that the
Practically all the work on the 2 42-mile
Tahquitz. But the white men, in defiance aqueduct and the upper feeder system on Cahuillas speak of the supernatural pow-
of the pagan admonition, are drilling a the Southern California coastal plain has ers of Tahquitz?
tunnel straight through the heart of the been completed—with the exception of What is the reason for this slow prog-
devil-god's sacred domain. the pumping plants and the San Jacinto ress through the mountain? The Indians
Five years ago engineers blasted the tunnel. Only a few weeks of cleanup say it is the wrath of Tahquitz. The en-
LEGEND
Excavation Progress
Concretin* >>
9395
I080O IO75O IO7OO IOS5O IO5OO IO45O I04O0 10300 IO2OO
AQ.UEDUC T ST A TIONS
This progress profile chart teas prepared especially for the Desert Magazine under the direction of Don. }.
Kinsey, Assistant to the General Manager of the Metropolitan Water District of Southern California. It shows the
state of construction work on the San Jacinto tunnel of the Colorado river aqueduct as of April 15, 1938. // is ex-
pected the tunnel bore will be finished before next fall. It will be completely lined and ready for operation in 1939.
gineers say it is due to unexpected inflow count in February, 1935, installing huge the original plans and the location
of underground water. pumping systems capable of lifting changed to accommodate it. The change
Progress of construction work along 16,200 gallons a minute by way of the in course increased the length of the tun-
the aqueduct and in San Jacinto tunnel is 815-foot Potrero shaft. It would be vir- nel from 12.7 miles to 13.04 miles. At
reported in a news bulletin published tually impossible to drive a tunnel this present the tunnel is being advanced at
every week by the District. But it is im- length from only two working faces: four faces.
possible to draw from these sources the fresh air must be forced in, foul air The distance originally planned be-
tenseness of the underground drama, the drawn out, muck carried out, and excess tween Cabazon and Potrero shafts—8.22
reality of physical combat, the romance of water drained away. When ground con- miles—was the longest ever attempted
men achieving over great odds. ditions were found to be worse than an- without adits. Engineers believe that it
Determined to see and hear, for my- ticipated, the Lawrence adit was added to would have been possible to drive this
self, I interviewed General Superinten-
dent B. C. Leadbetter and received from c • " •
?,•*.
•
.
. •
. .
" • ' .
' ,
- ' " -
•
J
~
M
him permission to visit the project. Office ' ' , ' •' • " :
• ' " f-
• •'••" L
:
•
- ^ &
Cfltoit 'Ttee" ft th
of the ancient empires are By DON ADMIRAL ticeable, and soon fall off. Generally the
reported to have worn gorgeous tree has the appearance of being entirely
costumes, but it is doubtful if old leafless.
King Solomon himself ever was arrayed Originally the tree was named Dalea
in the regal splendor of a desert Smoke spinosa. Later the name Parosela spino-
tree at blossom time in June. sa was given. Recently, however, Dalea
Smoke tree's display of color is especial- spinosa has again returned to favor. The
ly conspicuous because it comes at a sea- genus name is in honor of Thomas Dale,
son of the year when most of the other an English botanist. Spinosa, the species
plants and all of the creatures of the des- name, refers to the sharp pointed twigs
ert are in retreat from the withering rays or branches.
of the summer sun. Habitat of the tree is the dry wash beds
Writers have never agreed as to whether in the deserts of Southern California,
the flower is indigo, purple or deep vio- Arizona, and Sonora and Lower Califor-
let-blue, but it is a colorful blossom and nia in Mexico.
grows in such dense clusters as to change The tree in its native state is protected
the entire color scheme of the desert arroy- by law. It is difficult to transplant, and
os during the period when it is in flower. those who wish to secure Smoke tree for
Smoke tree is another of the desert gardens or exhibition purpose will have
shrubs favored with a common name better success in growing it from seed.
which accurately describes the aspect of The plant grows rapidly under favorable
the plant. Seen at a distance, the pale conditions and becomes a fair-sized tree
gray-green tops of the trees may readily in three years' time. Its mature height
be mistaken for the smoke wisps of a dry is from 12 to 15 feet. Mature trees may
campfire. Among Mexicans it has been be pruned severely if new growth is de-
called "ghost tree." Tiny leaves appear sired. Pruned trees should be given plen-
on the stems at times but are hardly no- ty of water.
JUNE, 1938 21
Tortoise eggs are buried in shallow holes scooped in the desert sand by the reptiles. This jemale is about to cover her egg with
sand. It will be hatched by the sun. Tortoise eggs vary in size, the larger ones being very similar to bantam eggs.
/] RISE in defense of the desert tor- agassizi is commonest in the California of moisture. Tortoises may have died
\J toise. With the world pock mark- drv lands. of thirst, but there are no cases of it
ed by war and tumult, a little con- Brother agassizi has a high backed on record.
sideration of the calm visage and philo- shell which will take a beautiful polish. Nor has the desert sun any terror for
sophical habits of the strangest reptile By pulling in his armored front legs, Serior Tortoise. The reptiles are prac-
on earth seems rather in order. he presents a united front that would tically inactive until the temperature
The desert tortoise has good reason turn a labor leader green with envy. rises to around 80°, and the higher it
for being philosophical. Behind him Not only is the tortoise built for goes the more lively they become. One
is an unbroken heritage of 100,000,000 maximum protection, but he has become woman puts her pet tortoises in the
years. In the Mesozoic period when adapted to the desert climate to a truly oven for a few minutes on winter days
there was scarcely an animal alive marvelous degree. For food he loves to make them active enough to amuse
which would be recognizable today, young cactus. Tougher varieties of her guests.
tortoises existed which were practically desert plants are too much for him.
Instead of teeth he has horny ridges But if the tortoise likes lots of heat
identical to those now crawling about
the California deserts. The dinosaur that look like petrified gums. and little water, it can't stand to have
tramped and ranted, the flying reptiles Once anything goes down a tortoise's things reversed. Although they can
beat the air with their twenty-foot throat the problem of digestion is swim for a few minutes, they soon
wings, the sloth slithered indolently solved. A tortoise's stomach can digest drown or die of a kind of pneumonia
through the jungle—but they have long anything. One member of the family caused by getting water into their lungs.
been relegated to quiet corners in the was found to be able to digest small There is a high tortoise mortality
museums. Meanwhile, the tortoise plods wire nails in forty-eight hours. caused by well meaning pet collectors
on, unchanged and tireless. He can go weeks, probably even who put them in fish ponds, under the
The most advanced species of the months, without drinking. Rain water impression that they are over-sized
tortoise family inhabit the Southwestern puddles, small springs, and certain turtles.
deserts. Among these, the Gopherus desert plants provide sufficient sources Tortoises and turtles belong to the
24 T h e DESERT MAGAZINE
UTAH
OREJAS DEL OSO (oh ray' hahs del o' so)
San Juan county
Mountain ridge. Means literally "ears of
ATTIC
the bear," perhaps from peculiar outline of
the summit.
PARAGONAH (par-ah go' nah) Iron county
tUe HEAT
is your
The Pi Ede name for "little salt lake." unwanted
WALTER FORD, whose Hidden Valley
Settlement formed in 1852. motorlog in this number of the Desert Maga- summer
ASHLEY zine makes one want to climb right in the car furnace - -
Lake, river and fort. Named for William and go out and explore that mysterious hide- INSTALL
Ashley, American trapper who built a fort away, is an engineer by profession. He has TURBINE
there in 1825. traveled widely and is a member of the Ad- VENTILATORS
WAH WAH Beaver county venturers' Club of Los Angeles. Ford is one
of those triple-threat writers who not only turn POSITIVE PERPETUAL PERFORMANCE
Mountains and valley. May be "Wa-wah,"
"the people; the Indians, strangers." Pahute out readable copy, but also take the photo-
word for Indians of the Sacramento valley. graphs and furnish the art work to go with NO POWER COST
(CORRECTION) their manuscripts.
• • • Ideal in conjunction with air condi-
ESCALANTE (es cah lahn' tay) Iron county tioning . . . Also equipped with ex-
Town and valley. Literally "scaling or Another writer new to Desert Magazine haust fan.
climbing a slope." Also Sp. surname. De- readers this month is RUBY BOWEN of Tuc- O
rived from Franciscan Father Silvestre Velez son, Arizona. Material for her interesting
Escalante, who, with Fray Francisco Atana- story about Night-Blooming Cereus was gath- Consult your local sheet metal con-
sio Dominguez, made their celebrated jour- ered largely from actual observance of the cac- tractor or write for catalog.
ney from Santa Fe, New Mexico, into Utah ti at the desert homestead west of Tucson Engineering Service Free.
in 1776 and gave name to El Vado de los where she and her husband have resided for
the last eight years. Mr. Bowen is night editor
Padres, the "Crossing of the Fathers," of the
Colorado river. of the Arizona Daily Star at Tucson. Western Rotary Ventilator Go.
Note—The Desert Magazine is indebted to INCORPORATED
F. W . Hodge of The Southwest Museum Mrs. Bowen has made "desert living" a
hobby and her spare time has been devoted to 1720 E. 14th St., Los Angeles, Calif.
for the above correction in data published
last month. many phases of study and recreation—among
them, cactus gardening, desert cookery, bee-
keeping, bird study and coyote taming. Her
excursions out into the untamed desert are
often made on the back of a burro. Refrigeration and
JUNE, 1931 25
OF YESTERDAY AND TODAY
—a monthly review of the best literature
of the desert Southwest, past and present.
J.S.LOUIS
and her finished work is the portrait too, of a
woman of courage, loyalty and fine sensibility. neighbors were Indians who had a way of ma-
terializing, apparently out of the thin desert
In a prefatory acknowledgment, Mrs. Faunce air, astride wiry ponies. At first it was a "ter-
says a series of letters she wrote to her cousin, rifying loneliness of yellow rim rock, gray
FORMER PACIFIC COAST MANAGER Ruth Wattles, form the kernel of the book. sand, red buttes, black streaks of volcanic ash,
CARBONDALE MACHINE COMPANY The author pays a graceful tribute to Miss and waterwashed clay hills." It was "an im-
Wattles for her "guidance and literary aid." mense world of sand and sunshine."
Louis has designed and installed Her desert-bred husband had never been hap-
py in the fogs and rains of the Oregon coast. And at first, too, the Indians were not
refrigeration plants in: He felt that "all man's ownership of earth was friendly. The trader who had preceded the
Los Angeles Biltmore Hotel gone, where there were so many to claim it." Faunces at Covered Water had not been popu-
When financial worries were piled on top of lar.
Los Angeles Ambassador Hotel annual rainfall of 97 inches, homesickness for How they made friends with the Indians—
Good Samaritan Hospital the desert caused the Faunces to set out in a ways and wiles of the redman—stories of birth,
wagon drawn by two horses to return to a life and death in the hogans — humor and
Jonathan Club country of little rain and few people. tragedy in trading post days and nights—and
finally how the Faunces saved to buy a farm
Pioneer Hotel-Tucson Mrs. Faunce's love of home and loyalty to on the San Juan river in New Mexico—(she
her husband are shown in the attachment she says it was like planning for paradise) are
AND MANY OTHERS felt for her garden and all the little, strong ties chapters in Mrs. Faunce's book. Summing it
of association which tugged at her heart-strings up, she writes, as she tells of departure from
Specializing in used air-condition- when they loaded their few possessions into Covered Water in the same camp wagon they
ing and refrigeration equipment. the wagon. She had been married seven years had used when they moved from Oregon "I
to a taciturn man, considerably older than her- had not realized we had woven so many
self, but "I had been willing to go anywhere, threads of friendship that it hurt to break them.
anyhow, with Ken—and I still was." In all my life these four years were the most
3634 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CALIF. isolated and the most colorful."
P H O N E EXPOSITION 6303 They drove 1300 miles in the camp wagon,
their destination a two-room shack at Covered TAZEWELL H. LAMB.
IN THE WEST—NOTHING
IS COMMONPLACE
In WESTWARD, HIGH, LOW AND
DRY by Dorothy Quids Hogner with illustra-
tions by Nils Hogner we have a travel story
that is truly modern—a sort of motorlog in
diary effect, so popular in these days of drive-
out, look-over and rush-on. These two New
Englanders, aware that the West is no longer
wild, have undertaken a motor trip of 15,000
miles, to include the real West as they have
learned about it from the libraries.
They have the happy faculty of observation;
and have seen beyond the rough surface that
so often sends tourists scurrying back to the
ew nearest filling station. There is a pleasant
humanness about their travels—the accidents,
the usual incidents of long-distance motoring,
with none of the rush and dither so common
You will be thrilled with the power of the 85-horse to tourist traffic. It is obvious that this writer
power engines and with the economy of the new "60." and artist husband are real people who actual-
ly hoped to enjoy their outing, and were not
The streamlined body makes Ford the queen of the undertaking it simply to make the neighbors
highways . . . the quality car in the low priced field. jealous.
In Imperial Valley, let Edgars' demonstrate the new A new view is presented of some of the old
well-known places — Grand Canyon, Death
Ford without obligation to you. Ford sells itself. Valley, Arizona, the Giant Cactus forests, the
All-American canal, Imperial valley, and re-
mote outposts and ghost towns. W e find new
interest in some of the things we regarded as
commonplace.
My streak of thrift rebels at the price of
$3.75 for this volume, although the print is
BRAWLEY EL CENTRO CALEXICO easy to read and the illustrations are distinctly
novel—albeit a bit heavy and not too pretty.
Published by Dutton, 1937, 310 pp.
TRACY M. SCOTT.
JUNE, 1938 27
DESERT MINING BRIEFS
Al HUE TOMBSTONE. ARIZONA . . .
Written by Dr. B. S. Butler, head of the geology department of
the University of Arizona, a bulletin recently has been issued by the
R I . university covering the mineral possibilities of the Tombstone area.
Associated with Dr. Butler in the preparation of the book were Dr.
DESERT COOLERS Eldred Wilson and Dr. C. A. Rasor.
Although Tombstone already has yielded $37,000,000 in gold, sil-
ver, copper and lead, the ore bodies are by no means exhausted, ac-
OGILBY. CALIFORNIA . . .
Rumors that an ore body assaying $100,000 had been encountered
by Holmes and Nicholson, operating at the old Padre-Madre mine in
Cargo Muchacho mountains, were denied by M. A. Holmes, father
LOW-COST of Kenneth Holmes, who is one of the owners. The father stated
that a very rich pocket had been struck, but added that a pocket does
Evaporative not constitute a gold mine. It was explained that the rumor was
started when the owners placed an armed guard to watch over the
COOLING newly discovered pocket for one night.
AIR-RITE, Inc.
2218 W E S T SEVENTH ST.
NAME
ADDRES:
Los ANGELES, CALIFORNIA CITY STATE
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the latest, most and new features galore to make your stay at Lake
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THE LODGE or THE TAVERN, American Plan,
economical . . .
or VILLAGE INN. European Plan; LAKE SHORK
COTTAGES or COTTAGE GROVE, housekeep-
SIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEM ing. BURTON R. OGILVIE, Managing Director.
Commercial
Condensing Units
AIR CONDITIONERS
I N C.
JUNE, 1 9 3 8 29
t/ete and lltete
. . . ON THE DESERT
ARIZONA Tucson . . .
Dr. Andrew E. Douglass, through whose ef-
Holbrook . . . forts the work of tree ring analysis has de-
Navajo Indians under the leadership of veloped into a recognized science, is to retire
Spencer Murphy, president of the Indian Wells as director of the Steward observatory and de-
tribal chapter, have threatened to stage a sit- vote only part time to duties at the University
down strike at the central agency at Window of Arizona in the future. At a recent meeting
Rock as a protest against the stock reduction of the board of regents Dr. Douglass was
program sponsored by the Indian Bureau. named director emeritus of the observatory in
recognition of his fine service over a period of
Nogales . . . more than 30 years. Dr. Edwin F. Carpenter,
Recent sale of the Joe Menager ranch along assistant in the observatory since 1930, will
the Mexican border to the United States gov- assume the post left vacant by Dr. Douglass.
ernment will add over 50,000 acres and valu-
U.S. GRAMT able water rights to the Papago reservation of
Arizona. Friends of the Papagos had been
working years for the government's acquisition
CALIFORNIA
of this ranch which takes out the last great Lone Pine . . .
"salient" in the reservation.
Sequoia National Park officials announce
DRIVE-IN GARAGE that within the boundaries of the park 300
LOBBY-LEVEL Fort Apache . . . lakes and 650 miles of streams will be avail-
Dr. Byron Cummings, University of Arizona
able to fishermen during the 1938 season.
RATES archeologist, is spending his seventh summer
Only three per cent of available fishing wa-
excavating the Indian pueblo ruins of Kinishba
on the White Mountain reservation near Fort ters have been closed to use and large plant-
Apache. John D. Fletcher, a former Univer- ings of Rainbow, Golden, Eastern Brook and
sity of Arizona student will assist him. Loch Leven have been made, which should af-
ford many a thrill for the angler. Limits on
F*mou» tor COMFORT Quartzsite . . . catches will be 15 fish per day, caught or in
SERVICE. CONVENIENCE Work of restoring old Fort Tyson by WPA possession, or seven pounds, except Wolverton
workers will soon be completed according to Reservoir where the special limit of five fish, re-
J. P. Thurman, foreman. The grounds sur- gardless of size shall apply. A California State
rounding the fort are being landscaped and fa- Fishing License is required of all persons over
cilities installed for picnic parties. The project 18 years of age.
is sponsored by the Arizona State Highway de-
partment and Felix Sefcovic is in charge for Needles . . .
the state. W. B. Carty, civic leader in Needles for
many years, was elected governor of the 111th
Willcox . . . district of Rotary International at the recent
In order to protect scenic rock formations district convention held at Tucson, Arizona.
which are now outside the Chiricahua Nation-
al Monument, the federal park service is spon- Thermal . . .
soring a plan to annex 10 additional sections One of the three known specimens of white
of land to the present reserve. This would Ocotillo growing in the Southwest is now in
double the present area of the monument. As blossom (May 15) in the cactus gardens of
the new area already is in the national forest John W. Hilton at Valerie's corner on U. S.
reserve, state authorities in Arizona have indi- highway 99.
cated they will not oppose the move.
El Centro . . .
Flagstaff . . . Imperial valley legionnaires are planning to
Coconino county supervisors recently passed present a pageant of the Juan Bautista de Anza
a resolution asking that Grand Canyon be trek across the desert as part of the parade to
abandoned as a national park and the area be held in connection with national Legion
turned back to the county for supervision and convention in Los Angeles next September. Dr.
management. Reasons given were that "the O. H. Van Eman is chairman of the commit-
TwENTY-TWO square miles of existence of said National Park within the tee which is preparing costumes and securing
landlocked bay around which boundaries of this county has resulted in de- properties for the parade event.
crescent-shaped S a n D i e g O lies priving this county of a large source of taxable
. . . afford just one more notable wealth, and has hindered the development of Palm Springs . . .
the mineral resources of this county." Following the election on April 12 at which
asset to this lovely Southern
Palm Springs electors voted to incorporate the
California community where a per- Kingmcm . . . village, George Welwood Murray, New York
ennial balmy climate coaxes sub- attorney, presented the new city officials with
tropical blooms in anybody's garden Field men for the Northern Arizona Muse-
um report they located more than 70 sites of a site for a public library. The donor is the
the whole year through. son of Dr. Welwood Murray who founded a
prehistoric Indian settlements in the Kingman
Come and enjoy San Diego, and Seligman area during a recent archeologi- sanitarium at Palm Springs in 1886 and re-
cal survey. Lyndon Hargraves of the Museum mained there until his death in 1914. The
where ...' California began and property given for library purposes is valued
was in charge of the survey.
Mexico beo'"*'. at $25,000 and is now occupied by a memorial
FREE BOOKLET Yuma . . . to Dr. Murray.
Address - Room 476 Setting a new high record, 36,208 gophers
San Diego-California Club were trapped in Yuma county during the an- Blythe . . .
nual contest sponsored by the Yuma Valley Through the efforts of the 20-30 club of
ALIFORNIA Water Users' association. The contest ended
last month. Prizes were offered by the asso-
Blythe, the state fisheries have arranged to
stock Palo Verde lagoon and other water chan-
include S A N D I E G O ciation as a means of ridding fields and canal nels along the Colorado river with 20,000 bass,
on y o u r t i c k e t banks of the rodents. Winner of the contest blue gill and crappie. The bass season opens
A T N O EXTRA COST!
was Juan Castillo with 4,046 gopher tails. in this area May 29-
m
and Mrs. Doman were hunting Indian arrow- GARAGE IN CONNECTION
heads recently a sudden rainstorm converted Rates per Day, European Plan
the dry flats of Carson sink into an impassable
bog. Result, the party became hopelessly mired It Single, $2.50 to $5 -- Double, $4 to $6
in the mud on the return trip. A rescue par-
ty on horseback finally reached the motorists
while an airplane reported the progress of the
search.
pi gjjflr Write for Special Monthly Rates
CLAUDE A. PARKER, MANAGER
Phone: FEderal 1183
J U N E , 1931 31
Dorothy C. Cragen of Lone Pine, California, is
AinGooledJloiek CAMEL the winner of the $5.00 cash prize offered by
the Desert Magazine for the best letter identify-
« IN . ing and describing the landmark below. Mrs.
ROCK Cragen's winning manuscript is printed below.
BRAWLEY
. . . when traveling by auto through
Imperial Valley this summer, stop
at one of Brawley's modern air-con-
ditioned hotels.
. . . while here visit the melon pack-
ing sheds. This is the shipping
point for thousands of carloads of
cantaloupes every summer . . . this
agricultural industry is an interest-
ing and spectacular sight.
Chamber of Commerce
INSURANCE
BRAWLEY, CALIF. By DOROTHY C. CRAGEN
TYLER AGENCY
W. H. Tyler, Jr. J. W. Tyler
^ H E scenic picture in the "Who
"DESERT Complete Insurance Service*- Realtors
/ Can Name This Landmark" section Phone 660 520 Main St.
STEVE" of the April Desert Magazine is EL CENTRO, CALIF.
RAGSDALE known as the "Camel Rock" and is lo-
invites you cated at the northeast edge of Red Rock
to visit
canyon on the Mojave desert of Califor- >RTSM
nia.
him at . . .
AVERN?
This odd rock formation which resem-
bles a kneeling camel is not far from the
little store known as Ricardo which is in Just a Little Different
Red Rock canyon about twenty-two miles We have at this time, in our larder,
Desert Center north and east of Mojave on the Three freshly caught
CALIFORNIA Flags highway. TROUT, FROG LEGS, YOUNG PIGEON,
GUINEA HEN, PHEASANT, QUAIL ;
On U. S. Highway 60-70-93 Camel Rock looks down from the WILD MALLARD DUCK
north into Red Rock canyon. So real does Ready to be deliciously cooked and daintily
Hotel service, cabins, cafe, store, gar- Served.
age, free swimming pool and showers, it seem at times, that one can imagine the Meals such as the above can neither be
largest landing field between Los An- camel resting after a weary trek across the prepared nor served in haste; therefore it is
geles and Phoenix, lighted all night. most important that we know when you will
Good mechanic, tow car service. Every-
desert sands; and as it rests there motion- arrive and how many there will be in party.
less, head lifted, it gazes down into that Our Tavern is located eleven miles east
thing for you and your car day and of downtown Pasadena, 4 miles directly east
night. strangely beautiful canyon whose wall of Santa Anita Race Track, on the southerly
side of Huntington Dr. (Route 66).
WE HAVE LOST OUR KEYS time and erosion have carved into intri- LILLIAN M. WADSWORTH, ADELINE E.
BAKER, Hostesses. Not Open Mondays
—WE CAN'T CLOSE cate and strange designs. So enigmatic 1452 Huntington Dr., Monrovia, California
are these carvings at eventide that they For Reservations, PHONE MONROVIA 3211
The sky is our limit, hell is our depth. look not unlike Egyptian obelisks and
We have sunshine the whole year
round. colossi of the Ancient World.
If you wish to get fat, or wish to be
lean, Camel Rock is east of the Three Flags
Jordan Hot Springs
Not on an Auto Road
D. C. is the best place to be found. highway, but is quite discernible as one
FISHING. RIDING, HIKING
leaves the canyon and goes north to the
50 MILES W E S T OF BLYTHE. Owens valley country, or, as one enters • • •
50 MILES EAST OF INDIO
the canyon from the north. J. N. HOLLIDAY, Olancha, Calif.
JUNE, 1 938 33
New 1938 Edition 4 TRAIL-BLAZER TO RAINBOW
4 Continued from page 5
THE CALIFORNIA 4 years she has collected and preserved looking at the Bridge—gauging its size
DESERTS 4 specimens of native plants—particularly and admiring its graceful proportions -
EDMUND C. JAEGER
4 the herbs whose medicinal qualities are the Rough Rider said in a solemn voice,
A visitor's handbook that tells * known and employed by Navajo medi- 'It's the greatest natural wonder in the
cine men. Her work in this field has at- world!'
all about the desert and its
plants and animals.
4 tracted the attention of botanists in Ari- "Another expression I can't forget
Illustrated $2.00 4 zona and California. Her collection— came from a cowboy: When I seen it I
Stanford University Press
4 numbering more than 300 specimens couldn't swear!' '
STANFORD UNIVERSITY, CALIF.
4 —now is being studied and classified in
the laboratories of Harvard university.
Although his name perhaps will al-
ways be linked with the Rainbow Bridge,
Clyde A. Colville — partner in the John Wetherill denies credit for its dis-
Wetherill & Colville Guest Ranch—was covery. "Not that I didn't try to find it,"
one of our little group in the dining he admitted. "I did hunt for the Bridge,
room. Like most men whose days are but I was led away from the search by
spent in studying the moods of the des- the discovery of three groups of hitherto
ert, Clyde Colville spoke little and lis- unknown cliff ruins—Betatakin, Inscrip-
tened much. I somehow felt he was tion House, and Kietsiel. After all, arche-
gauging the caliber of my trailmate and ology is my line. Nasja and Nasja-begay
. . . of the desert myself—estimating our wavelengths, so —the Pahutes — led us to Rainbow
to speak. When he joined our little semi- Bridge. The Indians found it long be-
Since 1913 circle in front of the living room fire fore the white men came."
after dinner, I felt sure we had been ad-
EL CENTRO, CAL mitted into his friendly regard. Pioneers in Archeology
Phone 34 To catalog the contents of that fas- Reared on his father's ranch in the fer-
cinating room would require the skill of tile Mancos river valley at the northern
a trained museum curator. The splendid base of Mesa Verde near the southwest-
Navajo blankets and rugs alone—among ern corner of Colorado, John Wetherill's
them some valuable bayetas—would pro- interest in archeology was born in the
vide material for a sizable volume. Fron- potsherd found in the soil beneath his
tier weapons and an old Spanish kettle on feet. With his brothers he explored, ex-
the wide mantel of the fireplace, vases cavated and collected—exhibiting a large
and bowls of prehistoric Cliff Dwellers, assortment of relics at the Chicago
more than a score of pictures on the World's Fair in 1893.
walls—each telling a story. Mrs. Wetherill also was reared in the
Mancos valley. There she and John were
Many Autographed. Volumes married. In collaboration with Frances
The library of John and Mrs. Wetherill Gillmor, Louisa Wade Wetherill has writ-
contains hundreds - - perhaps thousands ten and published a book: "Traders to
— of volumes. I noticed works ranging the Navajos." In this book is the true
from autographed novels of Zane Grey story of a half-century's struggle with the
and Harold Bell Wright to the numerous southwestern desert — colored with ad-
bound reports of the Bureau of American venture and romance, tragedy and happi-
Ethnology of the Smithsonian Institution. ness, disaster and triumph.
And the books are not merely on display
HILTON'S as bits of background. They had been
During their long years spent in the
heart of the Indian country the Wetherills
Art and Gem Shop read, studied, discussed. have gained real understanding of the
John W. Hilton, Otcner To me the most interesting volume of problems faced by Stone Age Americans
You are invited to stop and see all was the Guest Register which we were in becoming adjusted to Steel Age Am-
our 40-foot wall of semi-precious invited to sign. Covering a period of erican civilization. Having the confidence
gems and minerals. many years, the pages of that book carry of the shy native desert-dwellers, they are
Desert Paintings—Cactus the names of hundreds of persons who in position to interpret strange laws and
Gems—Pottery are well known in the world-beyond-the- regulations—gaining loyal co-operation
Cutting and Polishing desert. Scientists, artists, actors, bankers, where strangers might find stubborn re-
HIGHWAY 99 authors, health seekers, adventurers — sistance.
Acro3s from Valerie Jean Date Shop nearly all have contributed something. They are pioneers who have helped
P. O. Address, Thermal, Calif.
I turned to my host, smoking his pipe establish goodwill in a region where pre-
and listening as my trailmate described vious generations of white men had
our journey from Shiprock. "What are brought misunderstanding and bloodshed.
the reactions of visitors who view the Trail-blazer to Rainbow Bridge? Yes,
Rainbow Bridge for the first time?" I John Wetherill was that.
asked.
More important, Mr. and Mrs. John
Wetherill took the pipe from his Wetherill have been trail-blazers of cour-
VALERIE J l
mouth: "I'll always remember the words age and integrity on a frontier where
Write R. C. NICOLL, Prop., Thermal. Calif. of my friend Teddy Roosevelt,"—strok- there was a very great need for that type
ing his closely trimmed beard—"After of character.
JUNE, 1938 35
aMlih
By RANDALL HENDERSON
/ O S I write this, early in May, the desert landscape is citizens for "home, cabin, camp, health, convalescent, recrea-
/ /daubed with the golden blossoms of a million Palo tion and business sites."
Verde trees. In another month the bright hue of the The land would be sold at nominal cost and the purchaser
Palo Verde will have given way to the rich purple —or is it would obtain title without the loss of time and expense in-
deep blue? — of the Smoke Tree. And some time during the volved in the regular homestead procedure. The act is de-
intervening period the Desert Willow will put on its robes signed primarily for those who would go to the desert for
of white, tinged with pink. health rather than financial profit. It is understood that irri-
gable lands which may come under reclamation projects are
When it comes time for these desert trees to blossom they not to be sold under this act.
hold nothing back. Every tree is a masterpiece of color.
For city dwellers who dream of owning a little cabin on
I am rather partial to the Smoke Tree. Along toward the the desert where there will be neither telephones, traffic sig-
middle of June I will take the road which leads south from nals, gossipy neighbors nor high taxes, this seems a partial
Coyote Wells on Southern California's sector of Highway 80. answer at least.
Eight miles from the paved highway the road comes to a The limited area of habitable land which still remains in
gravel bluff overlooking Pinto Wash where there is one of the the public domain needs to be guarded well. But I can think
finest forests of Smoke Trees to be found in the Southwest. of no better way of utilizing it than as cabinsites for men and
The natural elements carved out this arroyo before there was women who are seeking relaxation between rounds in the
an international boundary line, and today part of it lies on fierce competitive battle in which the whole business world
the Mexican side of the border and the remainder in United is engaged.
States. * * *
Pinto Wash is a place of regal splendor when the pale Writing about Beavertail cactus in the April number of the
ghost-like branches of Dalea spinosa put on their annual Desert Magazine, Don Admiral stated that he had counted
237 blossoms in various stages of maturity on a single plant.
flower show. It is worth noting that the flowers are not less
Well, I'll have to award second prize to Don. Mary Beal of
colorful on the Mexican side of the line than the American Daggett, California, recently wrote: "I have a photograph of
side. The political boundaries we humans worry so much one with 250 blossoms, and counted 267 on another." Until
about just do not mean a thing to old Mother Nature. some one comes along with evidence of bigger and more pro-
lific Beavertails, we'll award the championship to the Mojave
desert.
This month's problem in the office of the Desert Magazine * * *
is to find a common name for the fruit which grows on the
various species of cacti. Some writers use the name "cactus We have had a cool spring on the desert this year - - too
apples", and others just call it cactus fruit. Cactus really de- cool for the good of the cantaloupe industry. But the hot
days are coming. I will guarantee that. It really wouldn't
serves something more distinctive than either of these terms.
be much of a desert if we did not have a blistering sun pour-
Perhaps the Papago Indians or the Mexicans have the an- ing down on us for a few months of the year.
swer. I will be interested, if any of the readers can throw any
light on this subject. If we had a perfect climate 12 months in the year, the ex-
ploiters soon would have a road in every canyon and a cock-
And after I learn what to call those delicately flavored edi- tail resort at every waterhole — and the desert would become
bles which are found later in the season on many species of as snooty a place as Hollywood. Thank heaven for the heat!
the cactus family, I will be ready for a feast — as soon as I Those who can afford it and have the time, will migrate to
learn how to pick and eat them without getting my fingers the mountains or coast when school is out. And the other
and tongue full of splinters. Probably my Indian neighbors three-quarters of us will remain at home and cuss the weather
can tell me something about that too. and with few exceptions be just as happy as we would be
elsewhere. Hot weather is not a serious annoyance to people
with good health and active minds.
Congressman Izac of San Diego is sponsoring a federal As my old friend Slim Wallace of Dixieland remarks: "Yes,
measure, H. R. 1876, which would authorize the Secretary it does go up to 115 degrees in the shade some days — but
of Interior to sell five-acre tracts of public land to American you don't have to stay in the shade if you don't want to."
Distributed by
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EL CENTRO BRAWLEY YUMA CALEXICO