Training Program

PRINTING
DEFINITION:
"It is the process by which localized dyeing are produced." It can also be defined as: "Localized colouration of the textile substrate."

OBJECTIVE:
To produce more attraction. Aesthetic reasons.

PRINTING SCENARIO:
These are the three ma or criteria!s that must be considered for the efficient production in printing process. Printing Techni"ues. #ubstrate $%iber& Type. 'ye #tuff (lasses $(olorants&

1.PRINTING TECHNIQUES:
There are fi)e types of printing techni"ues that are used in the modern textile industry. #.*o i. ii. iii. i). ). (ontibution In Printing Industry $+& ,otary #creen Printing -. %lat #creen Printing /0 (ylinder Printing .1 Transfer $Paper& Printing 2 3thers $4loc5& Printing / Techni"ues

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Training Program

2. FIBER TYPES:
#.*o i. ii. iii. i). ). %ibres (otton Polyester7(otton $4lends& 9iscose Polyester 3thers$acrylics;wool;sil5;nyl on;etc& (ontribution Processing $+& 26 .8 .: .0 : In

3. DYE STUFF CLASSES (COLORANTS):

#.*o i. ii. iii. i). ).

'ye #tuffs Pigments ,eacti)e 'isperse 9at 3thers

(ontribution Processing $+& 2/< .: < :

In

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Training Program

PRINT PASTE REQUIREMENTS

UREA is used as a hygroscopic agent or humectants:
=eeps the paste in wet form. A)oid bloc5ing7choc5ing of screens in screen>printing.

THICKENING AGENTS THICKENERS ARE USED:

To pro)ide )iscosity of print paste up to .111>2111 centipoises $cp& for reacti)es and 6111 cp for pigments. ,esponsible for localized dyeing; must be non>reacti)e and remo)ed from the surface after their application; because their presence onto the substrate can change the texture of fabric. 9iscosity has a great importance in print paste; if )iscosity of paste reduces or paste spreads in the design after printing; this is will be considered as a fault; 5nown as To produce sharp edges of design. ?ostly #odium Alginate is used for cotton $to pro)ide al5aline p@&; Auar Aum and Polyacrylates are used for synthetics $ha)ing acidic p@& and (?( can also be used. Bconomical (ompatible with the recommended p@ for a particular process. *on>reacti)e Basy remo)al

FLUSHING:

SELECTION OF THICKENERS:

LIQUOR AMMONIA is used:

To maintain p@ towards the al5aline medium; generally up to .1

FI!ATION is achie)ed by using #odium 4icarbonate in ,eacti)e 'yestuff. BLANK PASTE:

The paste containing all the solutes in water; except colourant $dyestuff& is 5nown as blan5 paste.

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Training Program

PRINTING TECHNIQUES
It is the techni"ue in which screens are used along with the print paste to print the design onto the fabric. It is a perforated sheet ha)ing some holes partly opened and some holes partly closed. #creens possess a particular mesh number: ?esh number C *umber of holes7s". inch This number )aries depending upon the types of dye and substrate. Pigment Printing C 21D-1 mesh no. ,eacti)e Printing C 61D./1 mesh no. 'isperse $Polyester& Printing C ./1D.:1 mesh no. 3n the basis of screen shapes; screen>printing is di)ided into two main types:

SCREEN PRINTING TECHNIQUE: SCREEN:

FLAT SCREEN PRINTING:

made up of *ylon.

@a)ing horizontal angle of .61E and

ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING:

It is the printing in which circular7cylindrical shaped screens are used ha)ing 0-1Eangle and made up of metals i.e. *ic5el or (obalt. This techni"ue is gi)es more production than flat screen printing; rotary printing machine can be run up to /1D61 m7min. Its biggest ad)antage is high production and )ariety of designs and the limitation is; it is not suitable for short batches.

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS IN SCREEN"PRINTING USING REACTIVE DYESTUFFS:

1.Print 2. 'ry 3.%ixation 4.Fashing7#oaping

9inyl #ulfone type reacti)e dyes $Low ,eacti)ity& are used for printing purpose. 'rimarene>P $reacti)e& dyes are produced by (LA,IA*T for printing.

TRANSFER PRINTING TECHNIQUE:

The techni"ue that utilizes the transfer or shifting of designs from papers $already printed& to substrate $fabric& physically.This is mostly carried out on polyester fabrics; poor sublimation characteristics are re"uired for the dye used in its print paste; pigment and disperse dyes are generally suitable for this purpose. ,ecommended process temperature is .61D//1E( and pressure is / atmospheres on s"ueezing rollers. #hade matching criteria is generally not considered in transfer printing.
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Training Program

PRINTING STYLES
There are three printing styles that are mostly used in the textile industry. 'ye in a thic5ened formulation is applied to selected areas of the fabric producing a coloured pattern. %abric must be pretreated $bleached& and dyed. 4ac5ground colour is decolourized due to the discharging chemical from the localized area. ,eacti)es and pigments are used for this purpose. %abric is first dyed and printed so that the dye present in the printed areas is destroyed. There are two possibilities in discharge style of printing: 1. If the original white of the fabric reappears; the process is called as a white discharge. 2. (oloured discharge could be produced; if the pre>dyed ground is destroyed while at the same time another dyestuff is left in its surface. G#odium #ulfite is the main product for discharge and resist styles.

DIRECT STYLE:

DISCHARGE STYLE (DUPLE! PRINTING):

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS:

'yeing: (onducted by continuous method $pad and dry&; but the dye is not fixed. Around dyeing is always carried out by reacti)e dyes. Pic5 up must be <1+ and controlled drying is carried out at maximum 61E(. Printing: 4y using direct style and then dyes are fixed. #oaping: In continuous form.

SPECIAL SELECTION OF DYESTUFF FOR DISCHARGE STYLE OF PRINTING: #pecial dyes are selected for ground dyeing;

which are not compatible with discharging chemical $sodium sulfite& used in the print paste for discharging. Fhen this paste is applied on the pre>dyed fabric; it becomes decolourized. %or coloured discharging; dyes must be selected which ha)e compatibility with discharging chemical.

TYPES OF REDUCING AGENTS THAT CAN BE USED AS DISCHARGING CHEMICAL:

5 Prepared By : Munir Ashraf

Training Program #trong ,educing Agent: #odium @ydrosulfite $@ydro& or #odium 'ithionite ?oderate ,educing Agent: #odium #ulfite $?ostly recommended for discharging& ?ild ,educing Agent: #odium #ulfide

.. Pretreated fabric $pre>wash& 2. Printing 3. 'yeing 'ye is applied to a fabric but not fixed. A resist formulation is printed on selected areas of the fabric. The resist agent pre)ents the fixation of the dye in subse"uent processing. The unfixed dye is washed away lea)ing a white pattern. If the resist agent is applied before the dye; the method is called a "preprint process." If the dye is applied first followed by the resist formulation; the method is called an "o)erprint process."

RESIST STYLE:

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Training Program

PIGMENT PRINTING
Pigments are the colourants; which are used mostly and are popular in printing techni"ues. Al5aline p@ is maintained in pigment printing paste by using li"uor ammonia; if p@ is acidic in print paste; acid formation or film formation will start within the paste. In pigment printing; )iscosity of thic5eners is impro)ed in emulsion form and it must be up to ..:+; when pigment printed fabric is sub ected to cure the emulsion system is bro5en up. 9iscometer is the instrument used to chec5 the )iscosity of the print paste. B#$% &'($%)*(*+ is the phenomenon that is used to maintain the )iscosity of the print paste by adding concentrated thic5eners. Particle size of pigments is recommended within the range of .>0 microns. If particle size is higher; it will cause poor rubbing fastness; improper mixing and choc5ing of screens. 4inder is used for attaching or cross>lin5ing between fabric and pigment. Huantity of binder must be selected according to the amount of pigment that is used. Aenerally it is ta5en asI Hty. of 4inder C 0 x Hty. of pigment. These ha)e multiple ADVANTAGES: Bconomical7cheapest of all colourants. Fashing and soaping is not re"uired after process. #a)es cost by eliminating one ma or time and money consuming process i.e. Fashing7#oaping. Instead of steam fixation; mild curing is re"uired. 9ersatility in shades; e)ery type of shade is achie)able.

LIMITATIONS:

Low rubbing fastness %abric becomes stiff after pigment printing 4inders present in a pigment paste produce stiffness in the fabricI these must be in a critical limit range. 'ry cleaning is recommended; which is expensi)e than washing.

This limitation can be a)oided; if water; soil and oil repellant finishes are applied onto the substrate then washing7soaping will not be re"uired for a longer time period. If the film produced on the surface is stiff; fabric produced will also be stiffed and as a result fading and crac5ing of pigments will occur $due to the exposure to sunlight;
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Training Program heat or washings&.

COMPONENTS OF PIGMENT PRINTING:

1. B#,($ P-./0$& a. Pigment $colourant& b. 4inder $for fixation of pigment& c. Thic5ener $to achie)e )iscosity re"uirements& 2. S)$.*/#-1 A02(3(#-(), a. %ixati)es7%ixing agent $fastness impro)ement& b. #ofteners $impro)e handle; feel or texture of fabric&

EMULSIONS: The system in which solutes are introduced into the sol)ent
in the form of tiny droplets by the help of proper shearing force $high speed stirring& of 0:11 rpm. Pigments re"uire thic5eners in emulsion form $..:+&; when curing is carried out the emulsion system in bro5en up.

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Training Program

PRINTING ON SYNTHETIC FABRIC

All textile fibres can be printed including the range of synthetics. 'ifferent colourants are used according to the chemical nature of the substrate. #ynthetics normally re"uire acidic p@ for their processing. Polyester..........................'isperse 'yes Polyamide $*ylon&.........Anionic 'yes $,eacti)es; 'irects; Acid 'yes& Polyacrylics.....................4asic or (ationic 'yes

PRINTING PASTE RECIPE FOR POLYESTER

'isperse 'yes Thic5ener $Auar Aum 6+; ha)ing )iscosity -111 centipoises $cp& 'ye (arriers Tartaric Acid $to maintain p@ at :>:.:&

GJp to .:1 meshes is used for polyester and .11>./1 mesh for polyacrylics and polyamide. G#oaping of synthetics is carried out by using le)eling or wetting agent; the main ob ecti)e of soaping is to remo)e thic5enersI otherwise it will create a stiff film on the fabric surface.

PRINTING ON BLENDED FABRIC

%or blended fabrics $cotton and polyester&; printing can be done by combining reacti)e and disperse dyes in one bath; but the conditions for p@ is followed as recommended for cotton and fixation as for polyester fabrics.

BURN OUT EFFECT PRINTING

It is the special effect printing; which is only possible on blended fabrics. ?ostly: Polyester>(ellulose Polyacrylics>(ellulose G (ellulose C (otton and 9iscose In this techni"ue; cellulose is burnt out from the localized area where print paste is applied and thus produces s5eleton formation. #pecial thic5ening agent is used for this purpose.

PROCESS SEQUENCE:

a. Polyester portion dye with disperse dye $it will produce a reser)e shade& b. Print with blan5 paste $to produce burn out effect& c. 'ye cellulose fibres with reacti)e dyes $to produce contrast or two tones shade& 9arieties can also be produced by the combination of these
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Training Program steps. #teps ab: ,eser)e #hade #teps be: Aenerally followed #teps abc: (ontrast7two tones shade

RECIPE FOR BLANK PASTE:

211 g75g Thic5ener $Auar Aum7Polyacrylate 6+& .1 g75g Fetting Agent $to increase absorption& :1 g75g #oftening Agent $Alycerin; during curing ma5es the fabric soft& .: g75g #odium (hlorate $.:/& .1 g75g %abric #welling Agent 12 g75g Antifoamer $to reduce foaming& /:1>011 g75g Aluminium #ulfate$l:I & 7 #odium 4isulfate $.:/& (old ,inse; Fash with . g7. #oda Ash; 1.: g7. 'etergent7Le)eling agent ,eduction clear for .1 minutes; @ot rinse and (old rinse

4ASHING OFF:

COLOURANTS FOR PRINTING PRODUCED BY CLARIANT

.................................... ,eacti)e 'yes 'rimarene>P ................................... Pigments Printofix>@

,eacti)e 'yes for 'ischarge Printing #tyleD'rimarene>,esist>P 'isperse 'yes> > >%oron>#

10 Ashraf

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