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EXOTIC DESTINATIONS AND CRUISING: ENJOYING SOME QUALIA TIME, G4 BAY OF DRAGONS, G6

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008

Travel
Heart of JOURNEYING DEEP INTO
THE RAIN FOREST
OF GUYANA ON A SURVIVAL

darkness TRAINING MISSION

PAGE G2

CHERYL HART PHOTO / COURTESY OF BUSHMASTERS

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Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0002-CMYK/02-10-08/15:41:39
G2 SUNDAY ON SU3V2
G2 H TORONTO STAR H SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008
TRAVEL
‘A chilling symphony of howls and hisses made my sleep uneasy’
Jungle
patrol
FINDING YOUR
INNER ’DUDE’
DEEP IN
THE HEART
OF DARKNESS
BY DAN ROBSON
SURAMA, GUYANA—Violent howls
swept out of the darkness and
across the thatch-hut roofs of the
village. White mist escaped the
mountains like ghosts climbing
from the jungle up towards the pale
moon.
The wind, warm and constant,
was haunting. I scribbled each
breeze into my journal, next to a
flickering lamp. The scrawl, almost
illegible, now maps my memories of
Surama — the remote village in
Guyana where I stared into dark-
ness, took a breath, and stepped in.
“How did I get here?” I wrote.
It all began when I stumbled
across a couple of British expats,
Ian Craddock and Sarah Jones,
while I was training teachers in Le-
them, a small town on the Guyana-
Brazil border. Craddock is like a su-
perhuman cross between Indiana
Jones and James Bond — a former
special-ops soldier and a whip-
cracking, rum-sipping alpha male.
His partner Jones is just as tough
and adventurous.
They had teamed with some local
Amerindian guides to form Bush-
masters, an ecotourism company
that specialized in “extreme adven-
tures” and survival training.
Over a beer one rainy night, Crad-
dock explained that they train ev-
eryone from military personnel to
middle-aged businessmen looking
for an extreme “team-building ex-
perience”.
“You should come along, try it out.
You’ll be a real dude,” he urged,
laughing off my fear of snakes, deep
forests, and dark rivers.
Reassured by Craddock’s cool
British accent and desperately
wanting to be a “dude,” I stepped
outside myself.
“Yeah, of course,” I said, with un-
convincing bravado. “That’d be
great.”
That’s how I ended up surrounded
by jungle in the remote village of
Surama. British writer Evelyn
Waugh passed through here more
than 70 years ago. In his book Nine-
ty-Two Days, he wrote about the vil-
lage’s “dozen or 15 huts” spread out
with a small trail running through
the middle of the grassy savannah,
and described the people as genu-
ine, hospitable and friendly.
Not much has changed since then.
Surama, I thought, is a place I could
get used to.
Then night fell; a restless night,
the wind stirring visions of things
slithering and sharp-toothed wait-
ing for me to enter the jungle at
dawn. At daybreak, those visions
JUST THE FACTS
BUSHMASTERS OFFERS 16-day
trips into Guyana’s remote rain
forests. They supply your sur-
vival equipment — hammock,
machete, fire kit, and a bow
and arrows — and give you an
in-depth boot camp to prepare
you for a two-day isolation ad-
venture. The training can be
taken by individuals or as a
group. Trips can be custom-
ized. Contact Bushmasters at
www.bushmasters.co.uk for
specific details on pricing.
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Guyana
##unknown###Cheyry Hart photos of Bushmasters for John Moore travel.
UNKNOWN
became reality. We waded through
a black river, mud oozing between
my toes as I struggled to keep my
pack of supplies above water. Each
step landed softly, cautiously, guid-
ed by an imagination on overdrive.
Craddock and Jones trudged
ahead, while my friend Catriona
waited patiently and calmly for me
to catch up. Apparently, she had
never seen those Anaconda movies.
We finally reached our dugout ca-
noe, a shapely piece of bark, and set
off under the canopy of thick
branches shaking with life.
Our Amerindian guides, Harold
Captain and Lionel James,
chopped away at the brush with
their machetes and told us stories
about hunting crocodiles and being
stalked by pumas.
They grew up on this river, camp-
ing for weeks at a time in the bush.
They knew every bend and tree like
we knew the streets around our
childhood homes.
Captain said he was once bitten by
a poisonous snake while they were
hunting. He had to endure a two-
day journey to the capital, George-
town, for antivenom treatment. His
left calf is now shrivelled and he
limps.
“But I’m alive,” he grinned. “Now,
I just watch where I step.” Lesson
learned.
As we drifted lazily, monkeys chat-
tered around us and macaws soared
in pairs high above. The black water
surrounding us was home to ana-
condas, piranhas and caimans —
crocodiles that can reach four me-
tres in length. I felt as though in the
midst of paradise, we were floating
on a nightmare.
It took all morning to reach our
landing point. It was very humid
and the air buzzed with life — but
oddly, I felt lonely. It was as if I’d
stepped into a world where I didn’t
belong, where I was invisible and
unnecessary.
Craddock shouted me out of my
reverie and we hopped back in the
Atlantic
canoe to hunt for dinner. At a small Ocean
pool — ominously called “Anacon- VENEZUELA Georgetown
da Point” — we cast makeshift lines
into the water. Soon, Captain felt a
tug and struggled to yank a large pi- GUYANA
ranha from the river. It flailed and Surama
flapped as we shifted in terror, SURINAME
rocking the boat dangerously.
BRAZIL
Captain jammed an arrow
through its eye to settle the rage. 100 km
Later we gathered by the fire
where our hosts feasted on the
jagged-toothed fish; I passed and
ate an uncooked package of Mr.
Noodles instead.
We strung our hammocks be-
tween ancient trees, stripped damp
wood with machetes, lit the fire
with a flint, and hid under a tarp as
rain pounded through the leaves.
A chilling symphony of howls and
hisses made my sleep uneasy. It was
along night. Sunrise felt like Christ-
mas morning. I sprang from my
hammock, just happy to be intact
and undigested, and packed for the
daylong journey back to the village.
As we paddled, we marvelled at
rare birds and our guides fired ar-
rows into the bush. I chopped at
branches blocking our path and
even dipped my fingers in the cool
river.
It was just one night; I had only
learned basic survival skills (the full
program takes a week of training,
followed by two days of isolation),
and most of the time I was terrified
and felt like a complete idiot. But I
had survived; and had slept under
branches that few would ever see.
When we got back to Surama, my
chest was proudly puffed. The jun-
gle howled behind me in the shad-
ow of mountains that I felt I could
move. And above all, I most defi-
nitely felt like a “dude.”
Some contributors to TravelExtra are CHERYL HART PHOTOS / COURTESY OF BUSHMASTERS
freelance writers whose trips to the des- Survival trainees pore over maps of the journey into the Guyana rain forest where they’ll learn basic
tinations were subsidized. survival skills, such as making their way through the jungle, fire-starting, fishing and hunting for food.
Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0003-CMYK/02-10-08/18:32:11

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ON SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008 H TORONTO STAR H G3

3:43 p.m.
The Heart of China

Asia Collection
Spend a magnificent 11 days touring 5,000 years of history through three of China’s greatest cities.
Be dazzled by Hong Kong’s 7,000 skyscrapers.
Enjoy Shanghai’s cosmopolitan buzz. And marvel at Beijing’s imperial heritage.

BOOK BY OCT. 31, 2008 AND SAVE

$
500
Non-stop flights from Toronto to Hong Kong
and from Beijing to Toronto
PER COUPLE
EARN 14,350 AEROPLAN MILES PER MEMBER†
for travel from Feb. 1
and completed by Feb. 28, 2009.

WHAT’S INCLUDED
• Your choice of 4# accommodations • All international flights,
regional flights, and ground transfers • Flexible durations; add days before
The Heart of China Tour
Feb. 1 - 28 • 11 days / 9 nights
$
2989
Plus taxes and fees: $421
or after your tour for travel on your own* • English speaking guides
• Sightseeing tours

Ask about our Asian tours. Call toll-free: 1 877 274-2228

For more Air Canada Vacations destinations, visit aircanadavacations.com
*Restrictions and addtitional fees may apply. Price is per person based on double occupancy, unless otherwise stated, from Toronto - Pearson International Airport. New bookings only. Subject to availability. Not applicable to group bookings. Sale price reflects applicable reductions, is subject to change without notice
and cannot be combined with any other offer or promotion. International flights operated by Air Canada. For applicable terms and conditions, consult the Air Canada Vacations brochures. Ontario registration #50013537. †Aeroplan Miles are not actual miles, but points towards rewards including travel rewards. Unless
otherwise indicated, Aeroplan Miles indicated are based on roundtrip Economy class per passenger, are awarded on flight-inclusive travel only, and are per Aeroplan member. For terms and conditions of the Aeroplan program, consult www.aeroplan.com. I ®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Limited
Partnership. ®Air Canada Vacations is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license by Touram Limited Partnership, 2700 Matheson Blvd. East, Mississauga ON.
Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0004-CMYK/02-10-08/13:53:17
G4 SUNDAY ON SU3
G4 H TORONTO STAR H SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008
TRAVEL
Communing with nature in Australia and South Africa
Enjoying
some
qualia time
qualia’s very name — which means ‘sumptuous sensory experience’ — indicates that visitors are in for
something special, such as the ethereal infinity pools or luxurious baths, at the exclusive Australian resort.
OPULENT
AUSTRALIAN
RETREAT
A FEAST FOR
ALL THE SENSES
BY EMMA VULETIC
QUALIA, AUSTRALIA—Perched ele-
gantly on the northern end of Ham-
ilton Island, qualia is a luxurious
new island escape that has upped
the ante for world-class holidaying
Down Under.
Flying into Hamilton Island you
could be forgiven for thinking
you’re in the story-bound pages of
Robinson Crusoe . . . palm-fringed
coastlines, dinky little boats drift-
ing on a cerulean sea.
Since its grand opening in the ’80s,
however, Hamilton Island has
maintained a steady stream of mid-
dling tourism — families, ocean lov-
ers, divers. Not the Gucci-clad day-
dreamers of St. Barts or Bora Bora
. . . until now.
After selling his Rosemount
Wines for $1.5 billion, businessman
Robert Oatley visited Hamilton Is-
land for a holiday and bought it on a
whim — a second neighbouring is-
land was thrown into the deal.
Realizing that Queensland, and
indeed Australia, needed a world-
class destination to lure some YSL-
toting beneficence Down Under, he
embarked on a mission to create his
own Elysian escape.
Indeed, qualia is a flourish of con-
fidence for an island that was suc-
cumbing to Bali-ville ordinariness,
a trait the jet set avoid like the
plague. Take the Latin name for
starters. Pronounced kwah-leeah,
it translates as “sumptuous sensory
experiences.”
The resort’s general manager,
Shane McNally, is an old hand
when it comes to sybaritic get-
aways. His work has taken him
from the Banyan Tree Seychelles to
Amanpulo in the Philippines to
Silky Oaks Lodge and nearby Be-
darra Island.
“qualia has attracted a higher-end
traveller to Hamilton Island, and
opened their eyes to how much is
on offer,” he says. “Never has there
been any perception of five-star
product here . . . but now clearly
this is a hotspot of the Australian
accommodation industry.”
Comprising 60 guest pavilions, an
elegant main pavilion, two restau-
rants, two pools, a spa and excep-
tional all-day dining, no short-cuts
have been taken in this charming
resort. Even your entry is the stuff
Heavenly hideaways
Coral Sea
Hamilton
Island
AUSTRALIA
Sydney
Indian
Ocean
500 km
of dreams, with a breathtaking 180-
degree ocean view.
“You can see the ocean from al-
most every point of the property,
whether you are driving your bug-
gy, in your room or in the restau-
rants,” McNally points out. The on-
ly room in the resort without a wa-
ter view is the mellow library,
stocked with art books, board
games and novels.
Since every meal is included in the
hefty $1,600-a-night price tag, one
is encouraged to make peace with
their Epicurean side at each sitting:
seared kangaroo loin with celeriac
confit; wild mushroom terrine and
fig flambée port sauce; Hervey Bay
scallops with poppy seed crèpes;
poached King George Whiting with
sea urchin tortellini . . .
“What we hope to achieve will de-
fine gastronomic luxury in a new
and very Australian way,” says chef
Stephan Rio.
The whippet-thin infinity pool
(much like the women who holiday
here) shines in the metallic Austra-
lian sunlight. The scent of eucalypt
and hoop pine floats up from the
native gardens, as the staff, dressed
casually yet smartly, drift about, ap-
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pearing just when they should.
If residents want to explore the is-
land they have their own miniature
golf buggy (cars aren’t allowed on
the island). Alternatively they can
head to the beach where a resident
yachtsman will take them to sea on
a catamaran or cruiser to explore
neighbouring delights (islands, se-
cluded beaches, and of course the
jewel that is the Great Barrier Reef).
It’s no surprise some guests re-
treat to their pavilions to eat, sur-
rounded by panoramic views and
plush fabrics.
The Windward Pavilions come
with a private plunge pool and sun-
lit deck,or, if your prefer the cool-
ness of the air inside, you can curl
up with a good book on the sofa and
watch the yachts tracing circles on
the sea. The iPod-friendly sound
systems can be accessed with the
remote from any room, even from
the eggshell bath if you are so in-
clined (another prime vantage spot
from which to assess the nautical
moves of the day — and the Aesop
bath goodies).
At the other end of the resort,
perched at the top of a hill, sits spa
qualia, a stone pavilion. Situated to
capture soft breezes and tranquil
views, the spa has with six treat-
ment rooms, steam rooms and out-
side showers. The Bularri Yarrul
warm stone massage is the star
treatment here, using 300-million-
year-old stones from Northern
New South Wales. Or, if your soul
needs pampering, there is an open-
air meditation pavilion where body
and mind can be gracefully aligned.,
1 For more information, see
www.qualia.com.au
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The
great
escape
DIVINE ISOLATION
AWAITS AT ROCKTAIL’S
ECO-FABULOUS RESORT
BY MICHAEL BENEDICT
ROCKTAIL BAY, SOUTH AFRICA—After bouncing along
for an hour on what could be only loosely de-
scribed as a road, the Range Rover delivers us to
our eco-resort destination, Rocktail Bay Lodge.
Greeting us are its senior managers, Tal Fineb-
erg and Genene Howat.
“Welcome to the middle of nowhere,” says Tal.
Not quite, but almost.
True, we are 50 kilometres south of the Mozam-
bique border in the isolated northeast corner of
South Africa, about a four-hour drive from the
nearest airport. But Rocktail Bay Lodge offers
most amenities, except for air conditioning, and
boasts a substantial cellar of the country’s fine
wines to accompany such delicacies as ostrich
and seafood from the nearby waters.
The 11-chalet resort, each with a refreshing,
sheltered outdoor shower connected to the in-
door one, is nestled on the side of a tropical forest
dune, a rare and precarious habitat.
On the dune’s other side, a five-minute walk
away through greenery filled with birds and but-
terflies, is the Indian Ocean and some 100 kilo-
metres of unspoiled
beach. As we view the
white sands for the
first time, my normal-
ZIMBABWE
E
IQU
ly taciturn teenage
son bursts out, “Wow,
AMB
this is the biggest
MOZ
BOTSWANA
beach in the world!”
Rocktail Bay itself is
a four-kilometre-long SWAZILAND
cove, a stretch of Rocktail Bay
coastline strictly pro- LESOTHO
tected by a South Afri- SOUTH
AFRICA
can government in-
creasingly conscious Cape
Town
of the need to preserve Africa
its unspoiled beauty. Atlantic
Ocean
Its public beach areas 30 km Map
are restricted to five area
outside vehicles a day
and sports fishermen
must, by law, throw any catches back into the sea.
Even the sea is protected. An official marine re-
serve extends three kilometres from shore. No
boats are allowed; not a sailboat, not even a kayak.
Deep-sea fishing is prohibited and surfing is
banned, despite the Indian Ocean’s famous
waves.
“Why?” I ask Tal.
“Because there are no lifeguards,” he answers, as
if by rote. Then he whispers the real answer: “If
surfing were permitted, they would come.”
Rocktail Bay presents a little-known South Afri-
ca. There is no big game here, only some mischie-
vous vervet monkeys that will steal food off your
plate, given one-quarter of a chance. Instead, this
haven offers unique marine and forest treasures.
Birdlife South Africa, the country’s leading orni-
thological society, has deemed Rocktail Bay a
“birder-friendly establishment.” Birdwatching
tours can be arranged, or guests can opt for the
lodge’s dedicated bird trail that ends at a canopy.
Rocktail Bay Lodge’s parent company, Wilder-
ness Safaris, operates the nearby Rocktail Beach
Camp, which shares property with a world-re-
nowned diving school.
If you are a qualified diver, either resort will ar-
range a scuba expedition to pristine coral reefs in
waters where no one else is allowed. One of the
highlights is swimming with the docile, pregnant
ragged-tooth sharks that migrate to these reefs in
December and January. Unfortunately, our mid-
March visit is about three months too late for one
of the region’s most spectacular attractions, the
laying of eggs by the giant Loggerhead and even
larger Leatherback turtles who return every year
to the beaches on which they were born.
There is so much to see and do here, yet it’s the
things Rocktail Bay does not offer that make it
even more enchanting. It is that rarest of luxuries:
a refuge. There is no nightlife here. There is no In-
ternet, no cellular service, no phone or power
lines. The office won’t be able to find you — and
you can’t contact the boss.
Agenerator supplies electricity from eight in the
morning until 10 at night. Bedside lamps are bat-
tery-powered and always available. Hot water is
abundant. What more could anyone ask?
Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0005-CMYK/02-10-08/19:49:46

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ON SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008 H TORONTO STAR H G5

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Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0006-CMYK/02-10-08/15:08:37
G6 SUNDAY ON SU3
G6 H TORONTO STAR H SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008
TRAVEL
Dragons descending from the sky spit out pearls which became islands
JUST THE FACTS
HALONG BAY IS about a
three-hour drive from Ha-
noi on the Bay of Tonkin. A
number of companies of-
fer tours on Vietnamese
junks, many of which have
sleeping quarters. For a
taste of real luxury and
French colonial-era tradi-
tion (most of which has
disappeared in the rest of
the country), take the
wood-lined paddle steam-
er, The Emeraude, a repli-
ca of a cargo and passen-
ger ship built around 1905
by the Roque family which
made a fortune in French
Indochina in the late 19th
century. Cruises range
from $375 to $624 per
cabin, double occupancy.
See www.emeraude-cruis-
es.com for more informa-
tion.
AIR CANADA VACATIONS
has a host of Asia tour
packages, including the
Complete Vietnam Experi-
ence, a 13-day, 11-night
tour that includes Ho Chi
Minh City and the Mekong
Delta up the coast to Ha-
noi and the spectacular
scenery of Halong Bay. For
prices on packages, which
include return flights out
of Toronto or Vancouver,
accommodation, some
meals, transfers and tours,
see aircanadavacation-
s.com, call 1-877-274-
2228 or contact a travel
agent.
FOR INFORMATION on Ha-
long Bay, including at-
tempts to preserve its
sensitive ecology and nat-
ural beauty, see www.ha-
longbay.gov.vn.
FOR MORE on Vietnam, see
vietnamtourism.com
Vietnam
Fishermen have
long lived on
floating houses,
surrounded by
Halong Bay’s
magnificent
limestone peaks
and caves, whose
natural beauty is
attracting a
growing number
of tourists to the
region.
Legendary origins;
natural splendour
THE LIMESTONE PEAKS
AND CAVES OF VIETNAM’S
HALONG BAY ARE TRUE GEMS
BY SUSAN PIGG
TO RO N TO STA R
HALONG BAY, VIETNAM—This stun-
ning bay of towering rock peaks and
floating fishing villages may be
known as the “Bay of Descending
Dragons,” but today, at least, it’s the
Bay of Descending Tourists.
While thousands have been
dumped here by bus and by car, the
daily sorting out of who takes what
junk is turning out to be surprising-
ly orderly.
“This is quiet,” says guide Lan
Hoang, 29, who lives three hours
away in Hanoi but first came here
as a high school student when Ha-
long was just a haven for fishermen.
“When it’s really busy, sometimes
you have to jump from one boat to
the next just to get to your own
tour.”
You can thank UNESCO for all
that.
Since this stunning seascape close
to Vietnam’s northern border with
China was declared a World Heri-
tage Site in 1994, it’s become —
quite rightly — one of the three
must-sees along Vietnam’s increas-
ingly well-worn seaside tourist
track (the other two being the
towns of Hoi An and Hue.)
That made it inevitable that devel-
opers would set their sights on Ha-
long city, throwing up Western-
style highrise hotels and resorts at
such a dizzying speed that both lo-
cals, and tourists, complain what-
ever charm there once may have
been is long gone.
That’s until you head out on the
100 km
CHINA
VIETNAM
Hanoi
Halong
LAOS
Bay
Gulf of
Tonkin
THAILAND
CAMBODIA
Gulf of South
Thailand China Sea
water, put in your time jockeying
for space within the area’s
spectacular limestone caves and
then set your sights on the horizon
where old traditions are kept very
much alive in floating fishing vil-
lages just out of reach of the tour-
ism rush.
“Even the boats are becoming big-
ger and bigger and faster and fas-
ter,” says Hoang, as the cluster of
junks and sailboats offering tours
for a few hours, chugs toward Viet-
nam’s Gulf of Tonkin and Halong
Bay’s legendary caves of Hang Dau
Go (Grotto of Wooden Stakes) and
Hang Sung Sot (Surprising Cave),
whose limestone interiors have
been shaped by the waters of time
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SUSAN PIGG PHOTOS / TORONTO STAR
into a sight that you imagine the
Lost City of Atlantis would look
like.
While the caves are stunning (es-
pecially Hang Sung Sot’s landmark
giant “penis rock”), the most jaw-
dropping sights in Halong Bay are
its almost 2,000 limestone peaks
formed more than 250 million
years ago, some of which jut 200
metres into the air. They form lush,
green natural shelters for wooden
homes, and even tiny school hous-
es, neatly balanced on pontoons.
“There are a lot of children who
live here,” says Hoang as a young
mother steps gingerly from a boat
onto the platform of a brightly
painted floating home where
clothes are flapping from a rope line
in a late afternoon breeze.
“Some of the fishermen sell fruit
and vegetables or souvenirs to tour-
ists. They used to sell coral, but
that’s illegal now.”
According to legend, Halong Bay
was formed when a mother dragon
and her children swooped down to
help the Vietnamese fight off invad-
ers whose vessels were attacking
the mainland.
As the dragons descended in
flocks from the skies, their sweep-
ing tails formed the area into a mas-
sive archipelago and they spit out
pearls which changed into islands
as they hit the water, forming a
stone barrier against the attackers
and smashing their approaching
vessel to pieces.
Geologists, on the other hand,
have a much less colourful explana-
tion. They insist that more than
230 million years of rains and sea-
water eroded the limestone land-
scape into peaks while carving out
too many fantastic caves to count.
It really doesn’t matter who is
right. Any way you look at it, Halong
Bay is a true gem.
spigg@thestar.ca
BLACK
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ON
The
wave
of the
future
CRUISE LINES
UP THE ANTE
IN QUEST FOR
’WOW’ FACTOR
BY DIANE TIERNEY
From parks with real grass to zip-
lines that soar between decks,
cruise ships have become floating
resorts with theme-park envy.
Royal Caribbean and Norwegian
Cruise Line are two lines launching
ships with wow factor to entice pas-
sengers.
When Royal Caribbean Interna-
tional’s (RCI) Oasis of the Seas
launches in December of next year,
it will be the largest and, arguably,
the most revolutionary cruise ship
in the world.
The ship is expected to cost about
$1.4 billion (U.S.). It carries 5,400
passengers, has 16 decks, 2,700
staterooms, is 360 metres long and
encompasses 220,000 gross
tonnes.
The ship’s overall theme is the cre-
ation of seven neighbourhoods.
Each has been top-secret since the
first was released in April, and the
seventh will be announced Oct. 21.
The six neighbourhoods unveiled
so far include Central Park, the
Boardwalk, Entertainment Place,
the Royal Promenade, Pool and
Sports Zone, and the Vitality at Sea
Spa and Fitness Centre.
Central Park is longer than a foot-
ball field, located in the centre of
the ship and opens to the sky. It will
feature flower gardens and canopy
trees and will allow folks to picnic
in the park and enjoy concerts and
“street” performances.
The Rising Tide Bar is said to be
the first moving bar at sea. It as-
cends and descends beside three
decks.
The Boardwalk neighbourhood is
reminiscent of piers that dot the
coast of England and amusement
parks such as Coney Island. A
handcrafted carousel — believed to
be the first at sea — is the cen-
trepiece.
Just off the Boardwalk, the Aqua
Theater offers two experiences.
During the day, guests can swim
and even learn to scuba dive in the
kidney-shaped, freshwater pool.
At night, passengers are enter-
tained with theatrical performanc-
es featuring dramatic acrobatics,
synchronized swimming, water
ballet and high-diving.
The Royal Promenade neighbour-
hood opens to Central Park. Natu-
ral light cascades down from the
sky to the first zip-line at sea sus-
pended nine decks above the
Boardwalk, as well as two rock-
climbing walls.
The most recently announced
neighbourhood is a nightclub dis-
trict called Entertainment Place.
Casino Royale, located here, is re-
portedly the largest casino at sea
and is designed to evoke images of
the casinos of the French Riviera.
The Pool and Sports Zone and Vi-
tality at Sea Spa and Fitness Centre
features two large Flow Rider surf-
ing simulators, four pools and pri-
vate cabanas.
Surrounding the neighbourhoods
are 37 categories of accommoda-
tions, including 28 two-level loft
WAVE continued on G7
Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0007-CMYK/02-10-08/19:49:48

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ON SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008 H TORONTO STAR H G7

TRAVEL Cruising
Revolutionary new ship’s Central Park is longer than a football field
TOP CRUISE
DESTINATIONS
1. Caribbean 42.8
2. Alaska 15.5
3. Mexican Riviera 8.5
4. Europe & Mediterranean 7.9
5. Hawaii 4.4
6. Bermuda 3.6
7. Panama Canal 3.2
8. Europe & Baltic 2.3
9. Trans-Atlantic 2.0
10. New Eng./Maritime Can. 1.8
ARTIST’S RENDERINGS COURTESY OF ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL

Cruise lines are

increasingly thinking
outside the boat
to entice new guests,
adding features such
as extravagant themed
“neighbourhoods,” massive
on-board entertainment
complexes with acrobatics
and high-diving
performances — even a
floating
Ice Bar at Sea.

Pull up a cube at the Ice Bar

WAVE from G6
suites with floor-to-ceiling, double-
height windows — believed to be
another first.
“The seventh neighbourhood is
still under wraps, but it will be fami-
ly-oriented,” says Kelly Gonzalez,
Royal Caribbean’s assistant vice-
president of new building and ar-
chitectural design.
Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) re-
vealed its vision for the future of
cruising with the announcement of
two new 150,000-tonne ships,
called the F3 generation. Each will
carry 4,200 passengers.
The ships feature unusual night-
time entertainment — bars and
lounges with Riviera chic and Ibiza
style.
The first true Ice Bar at Sea fea-
tures giant ice cubes for bar stools.
(Now that’s cool.)
NCL’s New Wave staterooms fea-
ture contemporary curved walls
and ultra-modern styling.
“Gone are the regimented typical
designs and in place are sleek state-
rooms that are totally outside the
box,” says Colin Veitch, NCL’s pres-
ident and CEO.
Docks and piers around the Carib-
bean are being widened and im-
proved to make way for the mono-
lithic beasts that will be disgorging
thousands of passengers a day.
Cozumel, St. Thomas, St. Maarten
and Nassau all are having work
done, as is the Falmouth Cruise
Pier in Jamaica.
Haiti plans to build a pier at Laba-
dee to eliminate tendering to shore.
According to Cruise Holidays’
2008 travel trends survey, 12-day
Mediterranean, seven-day Alaska
and five-day western Caribbean
cruises are the top long-term, mid-
term and short-term itineraries for
this year.
Most popular Mediterranean
ports include Rome, Venice, Barce-
lona and Santorini.
Other European favourites are St.
Petersburg, London, Copenhagen
and Amsterdam.
For emerging destinations, Du-
brovnik is considered the hidden
treasure on itineraries and the
most underrated European port of
call. For shore excursions, Thom-
son says, “passengers may really
enjoy a Mediterranean cruise, but a
private guided tour of the Vatican,
exploring the stunning ruins of
Ephesus or kayaking in Dubrovnik,
can turn a great vacation into an
unforgettable experience.”
For more information on RCI’s
new ship, visit oasisoftheseas.com;
royalcaribbean.com or call 800-
ROYAL-CARIBBEAN and for NCL,
visit ncl.com or call 1-866-
234.7350.

CARIBBEAN
CRUISING
7 nights on the beautiful MSC Orchestra... only

$
999
Includes flight from Toronto to Ft. Lauderdale and all shipboard meals.
January 10, 24, 31 & February 7, 2009 sailings
Inside cabin - cat. 1 - Eastern or Western itineraries
Taxes & port charges up to $483.44

PLUS...
FREE CABIN UPGRADE
Book by October 31, 2008

Call: 1-888-7BELAIR
or visit BelAirTravel.com
Price is per person double, based on limited inventory available at press time and apply to new bookings only.
Flight via Skyservice. For full product information and terms & conditions, see our Sunquest Caribbean Cruise SQ22006
2009 brochure or visit Sunquest.ca. MSC Orchestra Gross Tonnage 92,400, registered in Panama.
Sunquest Vacations, 130 Merton Street, Toronto Ontario M4S 1A4. Ontario Reg #04555751
Product:STAR Date:10-12-2008Desk: SPC-0008-CMYK/02-10-08/19:08:55

G8 SUNDAY ON SU3
!SU3 121008ON G 008K!
008C!
008M!
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G8 H TORONTO STAR H SUNDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2008 ON

Experience the ultimate in pampering

in extraordinary surroundings,
while enjoying enhanced services
and facilities with great added value.
ONLY FROM TRANSAT HOLIDAYS Escape to true travel!

An outstanding line of 24 luxury hotels offered

exclusively to Transat Holidays guests.
BARCELÓ HOTELS OCCIDENTAL GRAND GRAND PALLADIUM
PRESTIGE CLASS PREFERENCE CLUB IMPERIAL CLUB
Dominican Republic Dominican Republic Dominican Republic
A FEW OF THE
Punta Cana • Puerto Plata Punta Cana Punta Cana EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES
Mexico Cuba Mexico WHEN YOU BOOK
Riviera Maya Holguin Riviera Maya TRANSAT DISTINCTION
Cuba Jamaica
7 NIGHTS Accommodation in rooms
Cayo Santa Maria • Varadero Lucea
FROM
$ closest to the beach
7 NIGHTS
FROM
488 7 NIGHTS
FROM
Concierge service
Occidental Grand Playa
$ 648 Turquesa Preference Club
$ 618
####, Holguin 24-hour room service
Barceló Marina Palace Prestige Fri, Nov 7 - Dec 5, add taxes $199 Grand Palladium Bavaro
Class ####1/2, Varadero Resort Imperial Club ####1/2,
Thu, Nov 6 - 20, add taxes $199 Punta Cana
Separate check-in/check-out
Thu, Nov 13, 20, add taxes $308
Private pool with butler service
Turn down service

BAHIA PRINCIPE EDENH PRINCESS Guaranteed reservations

ROYAL GOLDEN LE MIRAGE ALL SUITES RESORT for à la carte dining
Dominican Republic Dominican Republic REGENCY CLUB
La Romana • Samaná Punta Cana
Bathrobes, slippers and
Dominican Republic
Puerto Plata • Punta Cana
Mexico Punta Cana beach towels in room
Mexico Riviera Maya Mexico
Riviera Maya Riviera Maya
VIP room amenities
7 NIGHTS
Jamaica
FROM 7 NIGHTS Mini-Bar Stocked Daily
Runaway Bay
$ 558 FROM
7 NIGHTS $ 968
FROM EdenH Real Arena Le Mirage
####1/2, Punta Cana
$ 898 Thu, Nov 6 - 20, add taxes $308
Grand Sunset Riviera Princess
All Suites Resort & Spa Regency
Club #####, Riviera Maya
Gran Bahia Principe Jamaica
Fri, Dec 4, 11, add taxes $267
Royal Golden #####, Jamaica
Sat, Nov 1 - 22, add taxes $256

Flights are from Toronto via Air Transat, Skyservice, Westjet or Canjet. Prices shown are per person, based on double occupancy in lead room category. Taxes and travel related fees are extra and noted above. Spaces are prices are subject to availability at time of booking and subject to change without notice.
For full descriptions and terms and conditions refer to the Transat Holidays 2008-2009 Sun brochure. Transat Distinction Product: Not all resorts include the above inclusions, for complete list of privileges; consult the inclusions section in the Transat Distinction hotel as outlined in the brochure. Transat
Holidays, 191 The West Mall, Suite 800, Etobicoke, ON M9C 5K8. Ont Reg 50009486