BP-31-W
Botany and Plant Pathology
Paul C. Pecknold,
Extension Plant
Pathologist*
Reference to products in this
publication is not intended
to be an endorsement to the
exclusion of others which
may be similar. Persons
using such products assume
responsibility for their use
in accordance with current
label directions of the
manufacturer.
* With assistance from
B. Rosie Lerner and
Philip Carpenter.
Ornamental Diseases
Transplant Shock of Trees and Shrubs
Transplant shock is a term that refers to a number of stresses occurring in
recently transplanted trees and shrubs. It involves failure of the plant to root
well, consequently the plant becomes poorly established in the landscape. New
transplants do not have extensive root systems, and they are frequently stressed
by lack of sufficient water. Plants suffering from water stress may be more
susceptible to injury from other causes such as the weather, insects, or disease.
When several stresses are being experienced, the plant may no longer be able to
function properly.
Symptom
Leaf scorch is a common symptom of transplant shock. Leaf scorch first appears
as a yellowing or bronzing of tissue between the veins or along the margins
of leaves of deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves in winter). Later, the
discolored tissue dries out and turns brown. Other symptoms of transplant shock
appear as wilting leaves (especially on recent transplants), yellowing, and leaf
rolling or curling. On needled evergreens, the first symptom of water stress is an
overall grey-green coloration to the foliage; with further water stress, the ends of
the needles often turn a light tan color. If stress is not alleviated, leaf death occurs
and may be followed by twig and limb dieback.
Overall plant growth is greatly reduced, which is reflected in the length of the new
growth. Poorly growing plants have extremely shortened internodes, resulting
in shortened branch tips relative to those of an unstressed plant. New leaves or
needles of a stressed plant are smaller than normal. It is not unusual for transplants
to have very reduced growth the first year after planting; however, symptoms may
be evident for two or more years.
This plant was not watered sufficiently after transplanting.
Purdue University • Cooperative Extension Service • West Lafayette, IN 47907
Factors Contributing to Poor Plant
Establishment
Often plants do not become established because they
have a poor or injured root system. Bare root trees
and shrubs are most susceptible to transplant shock.
Such “stressed” plants are very fragile and are more
susceptible to other stress factors.
Improper planting. One of the most common causes
of plant root failure is “wet feet” caused by improper
soil amendments--the “bathtub effect.” When planting
in heavy soil, be sure to use the same heavy soil to
fill the planting hole. Many gardening books suggest
adding peat moss or other amendments to the back
fill. This is not recommended. A light soil mix placed
where it is surrounded by heavy soil too often results
in trapped water, suffocated roots, and eventually a
dead plant.
Planting depth is important. Deep planting results
in suffocated roots while shallow planting causes
root stress from the more extreme temperature and
moisture fluctuations in shallow soil. Refer to Purdue
publication HO-100 for recommended planting depths
when planting in heavy or sandy soils.
Problems can result from failure to spread roots of
container grown plants. Such plants often have roots
that are coiled around the inside of the pot. Gently
uncoil and spread the roots apart before planting. If
this is not done, circling roots can eventually girdle
or strangle the trunk as the roots increase in diameter
with growth.
Always remove twine, rope, or wire from the trunk at
planting time to prevent strangulation of the tree as it
grows.
Improper watering. Proper watering after
transplanting is especially critical in the first year;
over watering is just as injurious as under watering.
Soil type and amount of rainfall will determine the
frequency and amount of water needed. During the
growing season, landscape plants in well-drained
soils should receive at least one inch of water per
week. Plants in poorly drained soils will require less
frequent watering. Use a garden sprinkler or soaker
hose and measure the amount of water applied; use a
container with straight sides.
Improper plant material. Consider the suitability
of the plant to its intended site and geographic area.
Select species that grow best under the prevailing
conditions: wet or dry, acid or alkaline. For example,
planting an acid-loving plant such as pin oak in
alkaline soils is asking for trouble. Also consider the
plant hardiness zone you live in and select plants
adapted to that zone. Ask at the garden center or
nursery if you are unsure which plants are best suited
for your area.
How to Help Your Plants Become
Established
1. Select the proper plant for the proper location.
2. Inspect plants before purchase; look for vigorous
growth and good color. Ask the sales clerk to
knock the plant out of its container to inspect
for abundant, healthy, white roots. If only a few,
blackened, mushy roots are evident, choose another
plant.
3. Plant the material correctly and provide adequate
care for several years after planting. Water during
dry periods, but be sure not to over water.
4. Don’t be impatient if the plant does not take off
within the first 12 months. It takes a few years for
woody plants to settle in and become established in
the landscape.
What to Do about Dead or Dying Plants
If your plant dies, try to determine what caused the
decline of the plant: Not enough water? Too much?
Plant not hardy to the region? Correct the problem
before replanting with the same plant in the same
spot.
Related Publications
For additional information, refer to:
BP-2 Winter Injury of Ornamentals
BP-25 Leaf Scorch
BP-27 Iron Chlorosis of Trees and Shrubs
HO-4 Pruning Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
HO-100 Planting Landscape Trees and Shrubs.
Provides information on when to plant, how to plant,
pruning, staking, trunk wrapping, and watering.
HO-123 Trees for the Landscape. Describes use, cold
hardiness, size, and landscape interest for 48 trees.
HO-140 Fertilizing Woody Plants.
 REVISED 5/01
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