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Photo by Stephanie Cooley

than the appeal of a stereotypical hunting lifestyle as portrayed in retail advertising and the media. In an increasingly disconnected global food economy, many of these new hunters By Joel Pontius are rediscovering hunting as a way to reclaim close, ethical relationships with the land and We arent going to be vegetarians this animals through food. year! K.J. Tencza exclaimed, showing me a In a recent nationwide survey, more than photo of the cow elk he killed in December. Over breakfast several months earlier, K.J. a third of hunters (35 percent) chose for the meat as the most important reason for and I exchanged stories about the difficulties of the hunting season. Although K.J. loves the hunting (other options included being with family and friends, being close to nature, solitude and wildness of the Wyoming backfor the sport/recreation or for a trophy). country, and visits often what he calls the cathedrals of Vedauwoo, the added licensing In a similar survey in 2006, just 22 percent cost of crossing the border has kept our hunt- of American adult hunters selected for the ing partnership to sharing values and stories. We discussed the wild rains in the Colorado Jess Ryan of Laramie, front range and their undoing of his archery Wyo., says hunting has pronghorn season. Hed had many close calls caused her to be more but no clean-kill opportunities during the archery elk season. K.J., without an elk in his aware of the decisions she familys freezer, bemoaned his insatiable hunmakes regarding food. ger for meat. For K.J. and his family, no wild Photo by Stephanie Cooley game means a largely vegetarian diet, and no red meat. National trends show that although many meat as the most important reason they hunt. In a smaller sample of hunters from among the younger generation in families with a long tradition of hunting are no longer seven states (not including Wyoming), 68 hunting, a new group of hunters is emerging: percent listed interest in hunting as a local, natural or green food source as a top inwomen and men who hunt as a source of fluencing factor in their decision to hunt. healthy, ethical meat, beyond the industrial Both surveys were conducted by Responsive barcode. Some of these hunters self-identify as locavores, and many are quite passionate Management, a research firm specializing in issues around natural resource management about the pursuit of local wild food, as eviand outdoor recreation. denced by a recent proliferation of memoirs During the last eight years, Ive met a about learning to hunt. Books such as Tovar Cerullis The Mindful number of people in the Central Rockies who personify national trends toward hunting as Carnivore: A Vegetarians Hunt for Sustenance, Lilly Raff McCaulous Call of the Mild: Learn- a source of local, wild, organic meat. Three ing to Hunt my own Supper, and Georgia Pel- of them, in particular, K.J. Tencza, Jess Ryan and Morgan Graham, demonstrate the values legrinis Girl Hunter: Revolutionizing the Way we Eat, one Hunt at a Time, have been driven that root an emerging community of hunters to the land through experiencing aspects largely by concern for animal welfare, rather of the life, and taking responsibility for the Spending time with her grandfather, a farmer from death, of their food. Ohio, instilled in Jess Ryan a deep relationship Jess Ryan is a yoga teacher, doula, a natuwith, and respect for, the natural world. Jess lives ralist, a mother and a hunter whose home is in Laramie, Wyo., where shes a yoga teacher, doula, in Laramie. During her childhood, Jess spent naturalist, mother and hunter.

New hunters consider food and land, life and death

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Morgan Graham of Jackson, Wyo., hunts as a source of free-range, antibiotic- and hormone-free protein. In addition, he says elk, moose and pronghorn are delicious Photo by Amy Collett
a great deal of time with her grandfathera farmer from Ohiowho taught her how to pay attention to the land. Spending time with her grandfather on the farm instilled in Jess a deep relationship with, and respect for, the natural world. Jess went on to study law, but describes a moment of awakening during Photo by Amy Collett which she decided to pursue a lifestyle that, for her, would allow her to be more connected to the land. I looked up from studying and saw a tree full of house finches, Jess said. I had no idea what kind of birds they were, or if they were even a regular part of my community. In that moment I realized how disengaged I was from the natural world. Jess dropped out of law school, moved to Wyoming, and began graduate studies at the Teton Science School. Many years later, Jess came to the realization that she wanted to be more connected to the land through her diet. Every action I take has an impact on someone or something elsebut am I aware of who, what or how I am impacting them? For me, starting to hunt was about awareness and taking responsibility for my actions, she said. Many new hunters who begin in adultAbove: Morgan Graham, Geographic hood struggle to find a mentor, but for Jess, Information Systems finding the right mentor was even more of a project manager for challenge. Teton Science Schools For me to feel comfortable killing an Conservation Research Center in Jackson, has animal, taking another life, I needed a mentor spent years mapping that shared a similar philosophy about huntand assessing the ing as a way to be connected to the land, she condition of large said. ungulate habitat and Jess was able to find a mentor who met studying wildlife/ her criteria, and shared her experience in an vehicle collisions. Last year he harvested his article recently published in the Canadian first cow elk. Journal of Environmental Education (cjee.

lakehead.ca, Volume 18). Through hunting, Jess explained that she has become more aware of the value of all lifenot just the animals lives, but the plants and ecosystems. Something dies for something else to live its reality. Jess has also gained awareness about where she is pointing her gun, metaphorically speaking. Walking down the grocery store aisles in the past, I was a loose cannon, and didnt even know it, she said. Hunting, for Jess, has caused her to be more aware of the decisions she makes regarding food, and how her decisions affect the lives of animals and the health of the land. Granted, I sometimes still buy things in boxes and grab fast food occasionally, but I stop and think, What is the best choice I can make in this moment? What were the living conditions of those animals or the workers that prepped or harvested that food? Morgan Graham, Geographic Information Systems project manager for Teton Science Schools Conservation Research Center, is in the know about the movements of Jackson Hole ungulates. For years he has mapped and assessed the condition of large ungulate habitat as well as studied spatial patterns of wildlife/vehicle collisions across the state. Recently Morgan has decided to use his ecological understanding and the support of his professional community, to supplement his diet with wild game meat. He killed his first cow elk this past November in the Jackson, Wyo. How does she taste? I asked. Tastes magical, like pure, clean energy, Morgan said. She tastes like grass, and I am happy to know where the grass came from. Morgan is another unlikely hunter who learned to hunt as an adult. I grew up in a rural-changing-to-suburban community in southeastern Pennsylvania, he said. School was closed on the Monday following Thanksgiving for the opening day of deer season. Despite the cultural acceptance of hunting in my hometown, my family did not hunt.

lightly his decision to begin hunting. Morgan said that his family was fairly What is interesting is that the reasons "anti-violence, that in his family, killing animals was mean. Morgans childhood per- that lead my family members to be vegetariception of hunters was not of good stewards. ans and animal activists are the same reasons that lead me to the field to hunt each year, Instead of wildlife conservation, Id think of K.J. said. It seems to me, hunters are the first people on loud ATVs with the motivation of conservationists: we care about the environa trophy greater than the drive for food. Morgan said that his primary motivations ment, we care about our herds, we love our animals and shed for learning how to For Morgan Graham of Jackson, tears when they die. hunt were to parAs K.J. describes ticipate in wildlife Wyo., primary motivations it, he is instilling in management, provide for learning how to hunt his family similar food for family and were to participate in wildlife values to those he friends, stay active and explore new management, provide food for grew up with, but in a way that gives his places. family and friends, stay active family more time in Moving to and explore new places. wild land. Wyoming seven years Hunting teachago exposed me to a es hands-on conservation, respect of life/ large number of friends and colleagues that death, hard work, and connection, K.J. said. had similar professional and recreational When my kids pray before we eat, they interests, Morgan said. To them, hunting know where their food came from. Their was a fundamental way to appreciate nature. meat does not come plastic-wrapped from the Proceeds from licenses and equipment went store, but it comes from the mountains. Their to conservation projects. Elk, moose and meat was an animal that drank from rivers pronghorn were delicious. Logically, it just and walked through meadows. It breathed, made sense. If I didnt have a problem going lived and ultimately died, so that they may to a grocery store or restaurant and getting a have life; this is what my kids thank God for. steak, why should I have a problem harvestK.J.s perspective on food has changed ing my own free-range, antibiotic/hormone through his hunting practice. free protein? I lost a lot of weight after I started huntK.J. Tencza is a self-described hunting ing, K.J. said. Knowing exactly where hipster who is a minister at Christ Comyour food comes from gives you munity Church in Greeley, Colo. K.J. began hunting in his mid-twenties. He grew up in a more respect for it, and when you family with many vegetarians and vegans, and respect your food, I think the quantity you consume goes even a few members of People for the Ethical down. Over the years Ive Treatment of Animals, so he did not make

Moving to Wyoming seven years ago exposed me to a large number of friends and colleagues that had similar professional and recreational interests. To them, hunting was a fundamental way to appreciate nature
Photo by Amy Collett

Morgan Graham

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K.J. Tencza, a self-described hunting hipster, grew up in a family with many vegetarians and vegans, so he did not make lightly his decision to begin hunting
Photo by David Dougherty

metaphorically put down the fork and picked up the chopsticks; forks are for shoveling in as chopsticks are for savoring and being thankful. As a minister, K.J. makes sense of hunting in the spiritual realm. He explains that when he eats the meat of an animal he has been given the opportunity to kill, he feels blessed, not dominant or entitled. When we feel entitled to our food, our connection and respect for the earth, God and ourselves diminishes, K.J. said. When we feel blessed by what we eat, we find a more accurate identity in relation to nature

and God. When I eat the meat of an animal I harvested, I feel close to who I am supposed to be. Hunters like Jess, Morgan, and K.J. are rediscovering hunting as a way to reclaim close relationships with land and animals through food. The conservation community has much to gain from their values, and from the ways they are changing the face of hunting.
Pontius is an experiential educator, naturalist and writer based in Laramie, Wyo. His forthcoming doctoral research is on hunting as a form of ecological learning.

FOREVE R WILD families


in laramie
K.J. Tencza, a minister at Christ Community Church in Greeley, Colo., and his family depend on harvesting game animals for the red meat in their diet. If K.J. has an unsuccessful hunting season, his family eats a largely vegetarian diet.
Photo by David Dougherty Photo by Tara Teaschner

For adults such as Jess, Morgan and K.J., moving from a non-hunting background to embracing hunting was a process that involved consideration of their personal values, finding supportive communities and connecting with mentors to take them afield. A 2013 Cornell University study reveals that a support system is critical to a new hunter or anglers decision to continue hunting or fishing. Through its Forever Wild Families program, the Wyoming Game and Fish Department (WGFD) provides a safe environment and patient mentors for families with little to no previous hunting or fishing experience. Participants who desire to recreate outdoors learn skills to do so safely, ethically and (eventually) independently. As the Forever Wild Families program expands into the Laramie Region, WGFD invites families to apply for this life-changing opportunity. A new partnership with the University of Wyoming Extension allows WGFD to tailor the program to the needs of each community it serves. The programs success over two years has been documented in the Lander region, where 92 percent of first-year program participants bought fishing and/or hunting licenses the following year. Please contact Robin Kepple at robin.kepple@wyo.gov for more information about the Forever Wild Families program in the Laramie area or Tasha Sorensen at tasha.sorensen@wyo.gov for statewide information.

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