II. MECHANICAL PART OF INSTALLING NEW TRANSMISSIONS AND REAR SECTION ELECTRICAL WIRING 1.

Make sure that you have followed the steps outlined in sub-paragraph #1 of the section directly preceding this one. 2. At the electric motor, pull up on the upside-down, brass-colored U-clips, one on each side of the motor. Once you have pulled off each clip, pull outboard on each black drive cable until it comes out of the side of the motor.

Upside-down U-Clip (Note the double Brown/Black wire in connector) 3. Unclip the cables from the plastic clips that fasten them to the rear firewall in the convertible top well. 4. On the driver=s side, unscrew the two black plastic caps holding down the foam drain tray at each rear corner of the convertible top well, using a very wide bladed screw driver so as to not chew them up.

Black Plastic Caps

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You will not have to remove the two caps on the passenger= s side unless you want to replace the foam drain tray on that side.

Foam Drain Tray Note that the drain tray fits over the drain tube and over the steel ball and adjustment bolt for the Atension rope@ (black vinyl-covered cable dangling from under the rear main bow). Be sure to keep the drains clear of all debris and keep the hole covered while you are working in that area. Also, be extremely careful not to rip or tear the foam drain tray as any tear will cause water to migrate into the passenger compartment. It is then just a matter of time until the water will inevitably find and fry your central alarm computer, which is located at the lowest point in the cabin, under the driver= s seat! 4. At each transmission, unbolt the 19mm bolt at the center of the V-lever. This will take some force as it is fastened with Loctite Blue at the factory. Before removing the V-lever, be sure to note its position as it is possible to re-install them in one of two positions: the correct position and upside down (180 degrees off).

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V-Lever and 19mm Bolt There is a female keyway in the face of the center of the transmission and male counterparts on the rear face of the V-levers, but it is still possible to install the V-levers upside down. Remove the V-lever and set aside, along with the round black plastic protective cover that is directly over the transmission. At this point, you will have the rear steel ball of the removed V-lever showing, and the front pushrod with its plastic ball cup will be dangling from the front steel ball of the V-lever. Set the V-lever aside. 5. Reach under the horizontal sheet metal lip running just below the clamshell gasket that is fastened to the rear quarter panel. Now, pull (Auntuck@) the vertical face of the foam drain tray closest to you down to expose the transmission.

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Transmission Exposed, drain tray pulled down 6. At this point, you can either carefully pull off the complete drain tray or just push the outboard vertical face of the tray inboard so that you can access the three nuts that secure the transmission to the inner rear quarter panel. Note that the foam drain tray may be Astuck @ to the inner panels because of Agoo@ or the passage of time, but it can be peeled off carefully. 7. Now, unbolt the three 13mm nuts located at 9, 11 and 3 o=clock (three nuts circled in red in photo above). Note that the nut at the 11 o= clock position can be difficult to see, as it is partially hidden by the sheet metal lip. Before pulling the transmission off, follow the black cable from the rear of the transmission towards the rear of the well. The cable is routed and held in place with two lengths of black duct tape and you can pull it out from under the tape without too much difficulty.

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Drive Cable Routing, Duct Tape Removed 8. Pull the transmission off in a level and even fashion inboard.

Mounting Studs 9. The mounting studs for the B Version transmission are different than the ones holding the A Version transmission and they must be replaced with the correct

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ones if you are converting to the newer transmissions. as they are the same. To remove the three mounting counterclockwise direction.

You can use the old nuts,

studs, use a deep 17mm socket

in the normal,

Transmission Removed 10. Now, install and tighten the new version mounting studs, being careful to screw in the threaded side of each stud that has a groove cut into it (sort of self-tapping threads on that side). 11. At this point, if you have decided that you want to install the new electrical wiring for the complete conversion, we will proceed with the steps for the first of two parts for the electrical work. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, making sure that you first have your radio code available, if one is required for your model year. 12. At the B-pillar microswitch, unscrew the one T15 Torx head screw and pop off the switch housing from its mounting plastic stud below the screw.

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B-Pillar Microswitch Cut the two wires leading from the microswitch about 5 inches from the switch and strip 2 inch of the insulation from the ends of the two wires, one solid Blue and one solid Grey. Dispose of the switch. Follow the two wires down towards the base of the roll bar to locate a small connector. That connector will have a Brown with Red stripe wire and a solid Brown wire leading to it. On the other side of the connector will be the Grey wire and the Blue wire. The solid Brown becomes the solid Grey wire on the other side of the connector, and the Brown with Red stripe wire becomes the solid Blue wire. (If you have not been able to source a new small connector for the new Stehle transmission, this is where you can Aborrow@ a connector). If so, just cut the wires on both sides of the male and female parts of the connector and connect them the wires by soldering, as described. You will then have the male connector to use, but you must add a pin for the third wire lead).

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B-Pillar Microswitch wires in transition

Double microswitch connector receptacle 13. Now go back to the part of the end of the Blue and the Grey wire that you cut and stripped. Take your new small connector, which should have a pigtail consisting of three small wires leading from it and strip off 2 inch of insulation from each one: Terminal 1 of the connector has one Brown wire with

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Black stripe leading from it, Terminal 2 has one Solid Brown, and Terminal 3 has one Brown wire with Red Stripe.

Pigtail Connector which will plug into front of transmission Connect, solder and wrap with heat shrink tubing the wires as follows: a. The Blue wire to the Brown with Red stripe wire on the connector; b. The Grey wire to the solid Brown wire on the connector; c. The remaining Brown with Black stripe wire gets connected to one end of the new 5 foot length of 20 gauge automotive wire that you have supplied. 14. You will now have the connections to your new connector completed and you must now route that wiring and the connector to the spot under the inner heavy foam padding that will be under the new driver=s side transmission you will be installing. Here is a photo of a good final location for the connector so that it can later be plugged into the front of that transmission.

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Pigtail Connector Location The only remaining wiring to be done at this location involves the other end of the 20 gauge wire you have supplied. Take the 20 gauge wire and route it under and alongside the path where the driver= s side black drive cable will be running.

New Wire Routing near Cable Continue to route that wire around the rear of the convertible top well so that it terminates near the electric motor. 15. At this point, you can either remove the electric motor by unbolting its three 10mm mounting nuts (3, 6, and 9 o=clock) or just slip a zip tie around the

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top of the metal bracket and over the small black lever permanently pulled down and out of the way. If you remove you can do a more professional job of removing the lever and elected to unlatch the small spring that pushes the lever up the lever to keep it from flapping around.

to the its and

keep the lever electric motor, microswitch. I to then zip tie

Lever Microswitch Zip-tied 16. You will see a flat, medium-sized black plastic connector pressed into a receptacle under and to the driver=s side of the electric motor. That connector will have four sets of wires leading to it: thick Green, thick Black, thin Brown, and TWO thin Brown wires with Black stripe (which two lead together to one terminal). Cut the two Brown with Black stripe wires about 5 inches from the connector. Take the short ends of the wires and bend them over and tuck them back in towards the connector. These wires are now dead and just out of the way.

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Brown-Black Wires near motor (Note cross-hatch pattern of new drive cable) Take the other ends of those two wires and strip the insulation back by 2 inch on both. Twist the two together and twist them onto the end of the new 20 gauge wire you have routed to that point. Solder and cover with heat shrink tubing.

Completed wiring near electric motor 17. All of the wiring is now complete on this side, and only the wiring behind the relay tray remains to be done. That will be dealt with after we complete the re-installation of the transmissions.

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18. Now go back to the site of the driver= s side transmission.19. Since you have installed all three NEW type mounting studs, slip the new transmission onto the exposed threaded ends of the studs and press it home evenly, being careful to route and press the black drive cable over and into the clips along the top edge of the transmission.

Routing of cable on B Version Transmission Also be careful to ensure that the new small connector that you routed from behind the heavy foam insulation and through the hole for the forwardmost stud (at step #14) does not get pinched by the transmission. Reinstall and tighten the three 13mm nuts onto their respective studs to 16 ft/lbs.

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Driver (left) Side B-Version Transmission Installed Insert the new small connector into its receptacle in the front of the transmission. Slip the black drive cable under the duct tape or apply new duct tape over the cable. Continue to route the drive cable around the rear wall of the convertible top well and press it onto the clip located on that wall. 20. Re-insert the speedometer-type inner cable from the drive cable fully into the side of the electric motor on the driver=s side, and then press the upsidedown U-clip onto the edge of the motor bracket to lock in the cable. 21. Re-install the foam drain tray and screw the two large black plastic caps onto their studs near the rear of the convertible top well, on the driver=s side. 22. Re-install the flat black circular protective cover and the V-lever, being careful not to install the V-lever upside down. Coat the ends of the threads on the 19mm bolt with Loctite Blue, install and tighten the bolt to 59 ft/lbs. 23. Repeat the above steps that are relevant to the removal and installation of the transmission to complete the passenger side work. Note again that there is no wiring involved on the passenger side. 24. Connect the four pushrods (two on each side) by pressing each of the ball cups onto their respective steel balls.

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White Plastic Ball Cup Pressed On

Black AHydraulic@ Pushrod Pressed on ( Continue to next section in Part III, to complete electrical modification)

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