Lebanon: Hom-Mard (Lobster), You'll Dine Like A King. With Legendary Sights, Hospitality, Food and Nightlife

Lonely Planet Publications
409
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Lebanon
Coolly combining the ancient with the ultramodern, Lebanon is one of the most captivating countries in the Middle East. From Tyres Phoenician findings and Roman Baalbeks
tremendous temple to Beiruts BO18 and Bernard Khourys modern movement, the span
of Lebanons history leaves many visitors spinning.
With all of the Middle Easts best bits warm and welcoming people, mind-blowing history and considerable culture, Lebanon is also the antithesis of many peoples imaginings
of the Middle East: mostly mountainous with skiing to boot, its also laid-back, liberal and
fun. While Beirut is fast becoming the regions party place, Lebanon is working hard to
recapture its crown as the Paris of the Orient.
The rejuvenation of the Beirut Central District is one of the largest, most ambitious urban
redevelopment projects ever undertaken. Travellers will find the excitement surrounding
this and other developments and designs palpable and very infectious.
Finally, Lebanons cuisine is considered the richest of the region. From hummus to hommard (lobster), youll dine like a king. With legendary sights, hospitality, food and nightlife,
what more could a traveller want?
FAST FACTS
Area 10,400 sq km
Capital Beirut
Country code x961
Language Arabic
Money Lebanese lira (LL) known locally as the
Lebanese pound; US$1 = LL1502; 1 = LL1774
Official name: Republic of Lebanon
Population 4.4 million
LEBANON
LEBANON
408
410 L E B A N O N H i g h l i g h t s
L E B A N O N 411
To Lattakia
(90km)
Cup of coffee LL1500
20 km
12 miles
To Crac des
Chevaliers
(10km)
Newspaper LL2000
SYRIA
Aabboudiye
Aarida
Internet connection per hour LL3000
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
S E A
Qoubayet
Akkar al-Atiqa
Jeita Grotto
Post-Independence & Civil War
Temple of
Echmoun
Majdal
Aanjar
li
Nabatiye
Beaufort
Castle
Tyre
(Sour)
Tomb of
Hiram
ive
r)
ont R
es
N
O
N
B
SYRIA
DAMASCUS
Hasbaya
Marjeyun
Qatana
Jebel ash-Sheikh
(Mt Hermon)
(2814m)
Khiam
Area Administered by Syria

Under UN Supervision
Qana
Kiryat Shmona
Mansoura
Bint
Jbayl
Quneitra
Golan
Heights
5
Nahariya
ISRAEL & THE

PALESTINIAN
TERRITORIES
To Haifa; Tel Avi;
Jerusalem
(Or
Aanjar
Masnaa
ta
Na
a
k
A
Rayak
Jezzine
hr
Li
Sarafand
Talat Musa
(2659m)
Chouf
Cedar
Reserve
Lake
Qaraoun
Aw
ral- a
ni
Ghaziye
Nah
Baalbek
Qabb
Elias
Chouf Beiteddine
Mountains Moukhtara
Joun
Sidon
(Saida)
Zahl
Chtaura
Deir
al-Qamar
Damour
To Jerusalem
Broummana
Aabadiy
Baabda
Baskinta
Zaarour Niha
Bikfaya
Beit
Mary
BEIRUT
Faraya
Mzaar
Jebel Sannine
(2628m)
TI
L
Jounieh
Faqra
Qanat
Bakiche
Until it gained independence in 1946, Lebanon formed part of the region known as
Syria. As it shared that countrys history,
see p508 for pre-Independence events.
Al-Qaa
Al-Ain
a
V
NahrIbrahi
Qartaba
HISTORY
Aaqoura
as
Nahr l-A
a
Laklouk
Mashnaqa
Hermel
Pyramid
Amchit
The Cedars
Barzaoun &
Hasroun
Douma
Byblos
(Jbail)
n
Ro
a n
n
Ehden
Bcharr
Rachana
Sandwich LL2000
Lebanon emerged with Syria from the

break-up of the Ottoman Empire following WWI. Between the wars, the country
was under a French mandate and then it
became fully independent in 1946. Its strategic Middle Eastern location and relatively
stable, West-leaning government made it a
major trade and banking centre, with many
Western multinationals basing their Middle Eastern head offices in Beirut.
But Lebanon had a fatal flaw in its national make-up: power and control rested
with the right-wing Christian part of the
population, while Muslims (almost half the
population) felt they were excluded from
real government. Add large numbers of displaced and restive Palestinians and the result
was a recipe for conflict. In 1975 civil war
broke out between a predominantly Muslim leftist coalition (allied with Palestinian
groups) and Christian right-wing militias.
In April 1976 Syrian forces intervened at the
request of the Lebanese president, Suleiman
Franjieh, to halt the defeat of the Christian
forces. An uneasy peace was foisted upon
the two sides by the Syrians.
Qornet
as-Sawda
Horsh Ehden
(3090m)
Nature Reserve
Abu Al
i
Qubba
Batroun
Souvenir T-shirt LL5000
Hermel
Deir Mar
Maroun
Zgharta
Bottle of local beer in bar/restaurant

LL3000
Charbin
Qubbet
al-Baddawi Abu Moussa
Qalamoun
Enfe
Balamand
Chekka
Al-Mina
Tripoli (Trablous)
Litre of bottled water LL600
Tell Nabi
Mend
Halba
LONELY PLANET INDEX

Litre of petrol LL1300
Lake
Qattinah
alKabir
-
Nahr
M t
L
Average museum admission LL5000
Homs
Amrit
One-minute phone call to the UK

LL3000
hr
Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate

hot and dry in summer (June to August),
cool and rainy in winter (December to
February).
In summer humidity is very high along
the coast and daytime temperatures average 30C, with night temperatures not
much lower. Winter is mild, with daytime temperatures averaging 15C. In the
mountains, summer days are moderately
hot (26C on average) and the nights cool.
Winters are cold, with snowfall above
1300m.
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the climate is
warm but not uncomfortable, are the best
times to travel in Lebanon. In winter, the
rain and cloud can spoil sightseeing and
snow can close some of the higher roads.
Not all the budget hotels have heating either. But if you fancy trying Lebanons everdeveloping winter sports (see p642) its a
good time to go.
Travellers on a budget may prefer to
avoid the high season (mid-June to midSeptember), when prices of hotels and restaurants go up considerably. See Climate
Charts, p643.
0
0
LEBANON
Na
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HOW MUCH?
Nahr
Baalbek (p451) Arguably the Middle Easts

top Roman site and one of the worlds
most wonderful. Spend a day sizing up
this ancient Sun City.
Tyre (p446) With its long, dramatic and
colourful history, Tyre has ruins to spare.
Take a tour of this terrific World Heritage site.
Byblos (p434) A Crusader castle, Roman
ruins, a picturesque port, and enticing
souqs Byblos has it all. Take your time
to explore it.
Beirut (p417) Rapidly becoming the party
town of the Middle East. Dont skip some
of the funkiest nightlife and best dining
in the region.
Tripoli (p437) Grab a glimpse of Lebanons other side, its Islamic monuments
and history, then sample some of the best
sweets in the region.
Aanjar (p453) Meander the main street
and marvel at the well-preserved ruins of
the Middle Easts only Umayyad fortified
city.
Jordan
River
HIGHLIGHTS
To Jerusalem
To Der'a; Ramtha;
Amman
LEBANON
LEBANON
Lebanon
Israeli Occupation
Then came more trouble. In order to protect
northern Israel from cross-border attacks
by the Palestine Liberation Organisation
(PLO), the Israelis marched into southern
Lebanon in 1978 and set up a surrogate militia, the South Lebanon Army (SLA). Following UN pressure, the Israelis withdrew
three months later and were replaced by an
interim UN peacekeeping force (Unifil).
Meanwhile in Beirut, both the Christian
and Muslim militias continued building up
their arsenals. With the failure to find a
political solution acceptable to all parties,
fighting erupted frequently, only quashed
by Syrian intervention. At the same time,
Christians started demanding that Syria
withdraw its troops from Lebanon.
In June 1982 Israeli troops again marched
into Lebanon, this time with the stated aim
of eradicating the PLO. Laying siege to Beirut, they relentlessly bombarded the Muslim half of the capital by air, sea and land
for seven weeks. In August the USA arranged for the evacuation of PLO fighters to
other Arab countries, and a Multinational
Force (MNF) of US and Western European
troops was deployed in Beirut to protect
Palestinian and Muslim civilians. After the
assassination of Lebanese president-elect
Bashir Gemayel (a Christian militia leader),
Israeli troops entered west Beirut. Two days
later the Israeli-backed Christian militias
famously massacred Palestinian civilians in
the Shatila and Sabra camps in this area.
Bashirs brother Amin Gemayel was elected
president.
Israeli Withdrawal & Civil War Again

More than a year later Israeli troops finally
withdrew to southern Lebanon. No sooner
had they left than fighting broke out between Druze Muslim militias and Christian
forces who had been deployed in the Chouf
Mountains east of Beirut under Israeli protection. At the same time, fighting erupted
between Lebanese army units and Muslim
militia in the capital. The MNF came under
repeated attack and suffered heavy casualties; it withdrew in early 1984 following
suicide bombings of the US and French
contingents in October 1983.
In mid-1985 the Israelis withdrew from
the rest of Lebanon, except for a 60km-long
border strip, which remained under Israeli
and SLA control. Over the next couple of

years the country descended into more chaos
as rival factions within both the Christian
and the Muslim camps fought each other,
and Iranian-backed Muslim fundamentalists
(the Islamic Jihad) resorted to taking foreigners hostage. At the request of the then
prime minister, Selim al-Hoss, Syrian troops
returned to west Beirut in February 1987
to end fighting between rival Muslim militias. The Syrians slowly brought the Muslim
areas of Lebanon under their control.
At the end of his term, in September 1988,
President Gemayel appointed a transitional
military government led by General Michel
Aoun to succeed him. Aoun disbanded the
Christian militias and then launched a war
of liberation against the Syrians in Lebanon. Following fierce fighting Aoun was
defeated and sought refuge in France in
August 1991. In the meantime, a majority
of Lebanese MPs met in Taif, Saudi Arabia, to sign an Arab-brokered accord for
national reconciliation. The MPs elected a
new president, Ren Mouawad, who was assassinated 17 days later. He was replaced by
Elias Hrawi, a moderate Maronite Christian
who had good relations with Syria.
With the help of the Syrians the Lebanese army took control of Beirut and by
late 1991 had spread its presence to most
Lebanese areas. By early 1992 all surviving foreign hostages had been released and
Syrian troops began withdrawing from the
Beirut area.
Peace& War with Israel Again

In August 1992 parliamentary elections
were held in Lebanon for the first time in 20
years, and Muslim fundamentalists of the
Iranian-backed Hezbollah (Party of God)
won the largest number of seats. A few
months later the cabinet resigned and Rafiq
Hariri was appointed prime minister.
As the new cabinet began rebuilding Beiruts infrastructure and rehabilitating the
country, the security situation remained
tense in southern Lebanon. Israeli forces
continued to attack the south during 1991
and 1992 as skirmishes between Israeli
soldiers in the border strip and Hezbollah fighters increased in frequency. After
Hezbollah fighters killed seven Israeli soldiers in July 1993, Israeli forces launched
week-long air, sea and land bombardments
L E B A N O N T h e C u l t u re 413
on some 80 villages in southern Lebanon,

killing 113 people and causing more than
300,000 civilians to leave for safer areas.
Trouble flared up again in April 1996
when Israel mounted a wave of air strikes
on Hezbollah positions in the southern suburbs of Beirut and southern Lebanon. After
Hezbollah responded, the Israelis launched
another campaign, Operation Grapes of
Wrath. Their action attracted wide condemnation when media reported that 102
refugees sheltering in a UN base at Qana
had been massacred when the base was
bombed by the Israelis.
Lebanon Today
In late May 2000, the Israelis and the SLA
withdrew from Lebanon, leading to great rejoicing throughout the region. Nevertheless,
relations between the two countries remain
tense, and many Lebanese fear that their
country will once again be dragged into the
volatile and seemingly irresolvable conflict
between the Israelis and the Palestinians.
In February 2005, a tragic event acted as
a catalyst for a major historical upheaval.
The former prime minister and popular benefactor, Rafiq Hariri, was killed in
a car bomb in Beirut. Though Damascus
denied any involvement, the Syrians were
popularly blamed and huge anti- (and some
pro-) Syrian demonstrations followed. The
public reaction in turn triggered both the
withdrawal of Syrian forces from Lebanon
(ending a 29-year military presence) and
the eventual downfall of the government
later that year. Following elections in May
and June 2005, an anti-Syrian alliance led
by Saad al-Hariri, (the son of the assassinated Rafiq Hariri) won a majority in
Parliament and for the first time in 15
VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE
Lebanon is a republic with a president
(elected for a six-year, nonrenewable term),
a cabinet and a unicameral National Assembly of 128 members. Under a power-sharing
National Covenant agreed to in 1943, the
president is a Maronite Christian, the prime
minister a Sunni Muslim, the deputy prime
minister a Greek Orthodox, the speaker of
parliament a Shiite Muslim and the armed
forces chief of staff a Druze!
years, members opposed to Syrian influence outnumbered the pro-Syrians. Fouad

Siniora (a Hariri ally) is currently prime
minister, and, although the Syrian-backed
Emile Lahoud remains as president, pressure is mounting on him to resign. For
the first time also, a member of Hezbollah
joined the new cabinet. The government
has pledged to continue the reform and development initiated by Rafiq Hariri.
In the meantime, political jockeying and
continuing Syrian interest in the country,
allied with deeply rooted corruption and
ever-simmering sectarian tensions still far
from guarantee a smooth path forward for
the country. Even if the natural Lebanese
optimism continues regardless.
THE CULTURE
The National Psyche

In Beirut you are your car. Show, status and
fun are the chief concerns of many Beirutis.
Even outside the famously frenetic capital,
people work hard and play hard sleeping
fewer hours per night and notching up
more minutes on their mobiles than any
other nation in the Middle East.
While a collective amnesia has seemingly
seized the country, rude reminders of the
civil war are never far beneath the surface.
Every inhabitant has lost a loved one, and
every corner reveals a scar. Under the glitz
and glamour lurks a public debt of US$32
billion, unemployment at a massive 24%; and
an unusually high incidence of depression.
But lets not poop the party. The Lebanese are still intent on fun and travellers
will be swept along by the particular brand
of Lebanese hedonism. Guests are a gift of
God, they say in Lebanon, and the countrys hospitality is legendary.
Daily Life
Family is the core unit in Lebanon. Several
generations often live together; the old are
cared for and the young stay at home until
they get married and can afford their own
house. Lebanese Christians tend to marry
later than Muslims and have fewer children.
Muslims now outnumber Christians.
Though Lebanese society and particularly Lebanese Christian society is probably the most liberal in the Middle East,
certain limits still apply. Excessive drinking,
promiscuity and drugs are all taboo.
LEBANON
LEBANON
412 L E B A N O N H i s t o r y
Education is highly valued by both men

and women in Lebanon. With high unemployment and a struggling economy, making a living is a key concern. Many seek
employment abroad. More than 10 million Lebanese now live abroad (2 times
Lebanons population), and the brain drain
continues.
Population
Lebanon has an estimated population of
4.4 million. With nearly 90% living in
urban areas (almost 1.5 million in Beirut
alone), it is one of the most densely populated countries in the Middle East. An estimated 400,000 Palestinian refugees live
in the country representing nearly 9% of
the population.
RELIGION
Lebanon is home to numerous official religious groups including five Muslim and 11
Christian denominations. Prior to the civil
war, Christians and Muslims were about
equal in numbers; today (due to the Christian exodus and a higher birth rate among
Muslims) the latter make up around 70% of
the population.
Muslim denominations include the Shiites (the majority) who are largely found in
the south, the Bekaa Valley and southern
suburbs of Beirut; the Sunnis in Beirut,
Tripoli and Sidon; and the Druze in the
Chouf Mountains. The Maronite Christians
(the largest Christian group) live in the Mt
Lebanon region.
ARTS
In summer, many towns and villages hold
their own traditional dance and music festivals (see p456). Baalbeks international
music festival is the most famous of these.
The nations capital hosts its own festivals
for cinema, theatre and music, as well as
being home to a number of lively contemporary galleries.
Literature
In the 10th century, the region was known
for its classical Arabic poetry. Credited
with reviving the classical tradition was
Khalil Gibran, Lebanons most famous
poet (p442). A writer, painter and philosopher, he won international acclaim with
the publication of The Prophet in 1923. An-
other multiaward winner is the LebanesePalestinian poet, Mahmoud Darwish.

Lebanons buoyant publishing industry
has produced a number of famous novelists
and poets including the widely published
Amin Maalouf (The Rock of Tanios is considered his masterpiece), the London-based
Tony Hanania and the feminist Hanan alShaykh.
Cinema & TV
Although Lebanon boasts three major film
festivals, four film schools and six TV stations, the industry languishes far behind
the heady production days of the mid-70s
to 80s, when up to 200 films a year were
made. The civil war has inspired many
directors including Ziad Duweyri, Mai
Masri, Jean Chamoun and Ghassam Shalhab. Other names to look out for include
Georges Nasser, Maroun Baghdadi and
Andre Gedeon. Some films are available on
video (in French) from Naufal Booksellers
in Beirut.
Music
Lebanon has an ancient musical tradition.
Much music today successfully combines
Eastern and Western influences. In the bars
of Rue Monot or Gemmayzeh in Beirut, listen out for the oriental trip hop, lounge, Arab
deep house, jazz, acid and traditional music.
Lebanon contributes its fair share of pop
stars, including the megastar Fairouz (p77),
Marcel Khalife, Najwa Karam, Haifa and
Nancy, to name but a few.
In the larger towns, traditional and contemporary music can be heard in certain
bars (see the Entertainment sections in
those towns).
Architecture
Almost all the great civilisations have
marched through the region that comprises
modern-day Lebanon, and most of these
civilisations left spectacular traces. Unfortunately, much has been destroyed by the
years of war and also by uncontrolled redevelopment.
Nevertheless, the rebuilding of Beiruts
Central District has sparked a new energy
and vitality. Undoubtedly the most innovative and prolific contemporary architect
in the country is Bernard Khoury (see the
boxed text, opposite).
L E B A N O N E n v i r o n m e n t 415
BERNARD KHOURY BEIRUTS

ENFANT TERRIBLE
After studying architecture at the Rhode
Island School of Design and later at Harvard, Bernard Khoury went home to Lebanon. Bursting to rebuild his beloved Beirut,
he found that his daring designs were
discarded in favour of nostalgia and picture-perfect French-Mandate and Ottoman
reproductions. After returning in disgust
to New York, he was tempted back again
in 1997. Since then, his buildings, including the famous nightclub BO18 and the
restaurants Yabani and Centrale, have won
him international fame and acclaim. Look
out for one of his latest projects, the highprofile restoration of the Beirut City Centre
Building (BCCB).
Painting
Long-accomplished in calligraphy and decorative arts (like the rest of the Arab world),
Lebanon didnt open its first fine art school
until 1937, the Academie Libanais des BeauxArts. Today, the American University of
Beirut has a Department of Fine Arts.
In the 1950s and 60s the artistic community thrived in Lebanon. Interrupted by
the war years, it has re-established itself and
flourishing galleries can be found in Beirut.
Well-known 20th-century artists include
Mohammed Rawas, Moustafa Farroukh
and Hassan Jouni. Contemporary artists of
note include female sculptor Salwa Raodash
Shkheir.
Theatre & Dance

Though funding and venues are limited, Beiruts theatre scene is active and innovative.
Some playwrights to look out for are Jalal
Khoury, Roger Assaf and Issam Mahfouz.
Lebanese dance blends Turkish and Egyptian styles. The regions most famous dance
is the dabke, an energetic folk dance thats
performed at social occasions, particularly
weddings. Belly dancing (known locally as
raks sharki) is still popular in Lebanon.
ENVIRONMENT
The Land
Though Lebanon is one of the smallest

countries in the world, its terrain is surprisingly varied and diverse. Four main
geographical areas run almost parallel to

each other from north to south. They are
(from west to east): the coastal plain, the
Mt Lebanon Range, the Bekaa Valley and
the Anti-Lebanon Range.
The Mt Lebanon range includes Lebanons highest summit, Qornet as-Sawda
(3090m) and the famous Cedars of Lebanon. The Anti-Lebanon Range marks the
border between Lebanon and Syria. Its
highest summit is Jebel ash-Sheikh (Mt
Hermon), at 2814m.
Wildlife
ANIMALS
Lebanon is an important migratory staging

ground and boasts a large number of birds.
Off the coast alone, more than 135 species
have been recorded. In the Bekaa Valley,
migrating storks can be seen in April.
Unfortunately uncontrolled hunting has
taken a major toll on wildlife. Wolves, wild
boars, gazelles and ibexes are now all endangered and are very rarely seen. With conservation efforts, some species are thought to
be returning.
PLANTS
Trees are poems that the earth writes

upon the sky. We fell them down and
turn them into paper that we may
record our emptiness.
Extract from Sand & Foam, 1926, by
Khalil Gibran
Although Lebanon has suffered appalling
deforestation, it is still the most densely
wooded country in the Middle East (though
thats not difficult!). In the mountains, many
varieties of pine, juniper, oak, beech and cypress can be found. In spring, wild flowers
carpet the hills and mountains, including the
indigenous Lebanese violet. In Beirut a large
palm-replanting scheme is under way.
Unfortunately, Lebanons most famous
plant (and the one emblazoned on its flag)
the cedar tree, has been reduced from oncegreat forests to a few lonely patches at Bcharr
(p442) and in the Chouf Mountains. Though
some replantation is afoot, it will take centuries to restore them to their former glory.
Environmental Issues
Ravaged by more than two decades of war,
anarchy, unfettered construction and weak
LEBANON
LEBANON
414 L E B A N O N R e l i g i o n
state control, Lebanons environment remains very fragile. The only areas to have
escaped destruction are ironically
known mined areas.
The complete lack of basic service industries or infrastructure during the war meant
that solid waste was dumped throughout
the country. Most water sources are still
polluted. Air pollution is another serious,
ongoing problem particularly in Beirut.
Lebanon now has 1.5 million cars within
its cramped confines.
In the past 10 years, new water treatment
plants have at last been built, a Ministry of
Environment has been created (albeit weak
and lacking influence) and various environmental organisations set up (both by locals
and NGOs). The coastline is also slowly
being cleaned up. Though signs are more
positive than they have been for years, the
Lebanese government has still to prove its
commitment and concern.
FOOD & DRINK

One of the best things about a holiday in
Lebanon is the food. Lebanese cuisine has
a reputation as being the best in the Middle
East. The proofs in the pudding (literally),
so try it.
MIND YOUR MEZZE MANNERS
Just like its food, Lebanese eating etiquette
is more sophisticated that it might look.
Use only your right hand; tuck away the
left.
Take food from your side of the table;
stretching to the other side is
considered impolite.
Avoid letting your fingers come into
contact with the dips; use bread like a
spoon.
Dont dip the same piece of bread
twice.
Gobbling, taking large portions, or
filling your mouth too full is seen as
uncivilised.
Try not to devastate the dishes; keep
them tidy.
Leaving a little food behind on your
plate after eating is good manners.
LEBANONS GOLDEN GRAPES

Lebanon is one of the worlds oldest wineproducing regions. Its most famous and
successful region, the Bekaa Valley, boasts
excellent wine-growing conditions including reliable sunshine (for 240 days of the
year), steep slopes and chalky soils.
All the main grape varieties are found, including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Syrah. Wine consumption both
inside and outside Lebanon is rising fast
and Lebanons wines are being taken seriously at last. The country now earns more
than US$7 million annually from sales, producing over seven million bottles, nearly
half of which are exported.
When youre in the country dont miss
an opportunity to taste the golden grapes.
Worth a visit are Chteau Ksara (the oldest commercial vineyard), Chteau Kefraya
(the largest producer) and Chteau Musar
(the most successful on the international
markets and winner of various viticultural
medals). Worth sampling are Chteau Musar
(1998), Chteau Ksara chardonnay (1999)
and Le Chteau Kefraya (1999).
Fresh ingredients, including numerous types of fruit, vegetables and pulses,

are plentiful in Lebanon. Unfortunately,
seafood is prohibitively expensive and not
always of a very high quality. Populations
of both fish and seafood were decimated
during the civil war.
Arabic or Turkish coffee is popular in
Lebanon. Freshly squeezed vegetable and
fruit juices are quite widely available. Try
the jellab (a delicious drink made from
raisins and served with pine nuts) and
ayran (a yoghurt drink). Sohat, Sabil and
Tannourini are considered the three best
brands of Lebanese mineral water.
Alcohol is widely available in Lebanon
youll find everything from local beers and
wines to imported whisky and vodka. The
most popular alcoholic drink is arak, which
is mixed with water and ice and usually
accompanies meals. Good local brands include Ksarak and Le Brun. The best local
beer is Almaza; it lives up to its name (diamond in Arabic).
See p84 for other typical drinks and
dishes.
B E I R U T H i s t o r y 417
BEIRUT
x01 / pop 1,251,739
Beirut is Lebanons heart and soul as well

as the nations capital. Double-faced all
banks, boutiques and patisseries at one
end; ruined, ragged and the refuge of poverty-stricken Palestinians at the other its
also vital and resolute. Out of the ashes
and scars of the civil war, the city is rising
phoenix-like in an exciting rebirth. Beirut
is beavering hard to regain its former status as the jewel of the Middle East. Its
also fast becoming the party capital of the
Middle East. Visitors to Beirut shouldnt
miss the chance to sample the capitals
now legendary nightlife and superb cuisine. And a nose around the National Museum is a must.
HISTORY
Beryte, as Beirut was originally known, was
a modest port during Phoenician times (2nd
millennium BC). Later, it became famous in
Roman times for its School of Law, one of
the first three in the world, which made it a
cultural centre right up until the 6th century
AD. Following a long period of decline, it
regained its importance as a trading centre
and gateway to the Middle East in the 19th
century, and its port became the largest on
the eastern Mediterranean coast. The city
soon became a major business, banking and
publishing centre and remained so until the
civil war put paid to its supremacy.
Since the war ended, rehabilitation of
the citys infrastructure has been the
major focus of both the local and national
governments.
ORIENTATION
Beirut is an easy city to navigate as there are
conspicuous landmarks all over town.
Hamra, with its many hotels and restaurants, the Ministry of Tourism and a
commercial area, is the preferred base for
many travellers. To the immediate north
and east is Ras Beirut, home of the American University of Beirut (AUB). To the
southwest are the seaside suburbs of Manara and Raouch, where youll find a host
of seaside cafs.
The Corniche runs along the coast east
from Raouch to Ain al-Mreisse. Further
east, past Minet al-Hosn, home of the Phoenicia Intercontinental Hotel, is the newly
rebuilt Beirut Central District, also called
Downtown or Solidere, the symbolic heart
of the city. Further southeast, Gemmayzeh
and Achrafiye are where Beirutis flock to
sample the restaurants, bars and nightclubs
on offer.
Maps
The tourist office and some of the car hire
companies produce quite useful city maps
of Beirut.
INFORMATION
Bookshops
Beirut has a good range of foreign-language

bookshops (which keep standard opening
hours unless indicated otherwise).
Books & Pens (Maliks; Map p422; x741 975; Rue
Jeanne dArc, Hamra; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm

Sat) This stationers/bookshop stocks a decent selection of
international newspapers and magazines, including the
International Herald Tribune (with the local Daily Star inset)
for LL2000.
Librairie Antoine (Map p422; x341 470; Rue Hamra,
Hamra) If youre out of holiday reading, this place stocks
literature (including Lebanese) in English, French and
Spanish. Also has a good childrens section.
Naufal Booksellers (Map p422; x354 898; Rue
Sourati, Hamra) One of the best for books on Lebanon and
the region (in French and English), including coffee-table
books, guidebooks, maps, Arabic phrasebooks and Middle
Eastern cookbooks. Also stocks Lebanese documentaries
and feature films, and postcards.
Virgin Megastore (Map pp418-19; x999 666; Opera
Bldg, Place des Martyrs, Downtown; h9.30am-midnight
Sun-Thu, 9.30am-1am Fri & Sat) New shop with the best
collection of books and maps on Lebanon (on its 1st floor)
as well as a wide range of childrens books and, on the 2nd
floor, local and regional music. The Guide (see p419) is sold
here. Also sells tickets for some of Lebanons festivals (such
as the Beiteddine Festival).
Emergency
Ambulance (x140)
Fire brigade (x175)
Police (x112)
Tourist police (x350 901)
Internet Access
Theres no shortage of Internet cafs in
Beirut.
Pass Par Tout (Map p422; x367 149; Rue Omar ben
Abdel Aziz, Ras Beirut; per 30min LL1500; h11am-2am)
LEBANON
LEBANON
416 L E B A N O N F o o d & D r i n k
0
0
BEIRUT
Ave
12
de P
Ru
34
Ro
ra
Rue Spears
United
Nations
Building
41
nt
a
un
eD
SANAYEH
Ru
42
10
37 9
6
Place des
Place
Martyrs
7 d'toile
25
15
19
Rue
Emir Bechir
44
Rue Verdun
64
54
36
itbe
lias
ssa
ar E
Mo
eM
Rue
Ru
To Beirut International
Airport (5km)
Media
According to the Reporters Sans Frontiers
Worldwide Press Freedom Index 2005, Lebanon has the freest press in the Middle East. Its
daily and weekly newspapers arent afraid to
criticise politicians and their policies, though
more sensitive issues (such as the continuing
Syrian influence) remain taboo.
There are six Arabic dailies and one
weekly; one French daily, LOrient Le Jour
(www.lorientlejour.com), and one English daily,
the Daily Star (www.dailystar.com; LL2000).
The Guide (LL5000) is a useful glossy
monthly which reviews the latest hotspots
(including bars, cafs and restaurants) and
details forthcoming gigs, concerts, shows,
exhibitions, festivals, and events for kids.
There are several good hospitals with outpatient clinics in Beirut.
American University of Beirut Hospital (Map p422;
Lin
To Saida (42km);
Tyre (80km)
Salam
load under/over 4.5kg LL3000/4500, detergent free, dryer

per 10min LL1500; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 12-4pm Sun)
Service wash (extra LL1000) and ironing service (LL1000
per item) also available.
Medical Services
Rue
blique
de la Repu
ee
72
61
5
Saeb
Gr
el-Harriri
UNESCO
49
er
Blvd
47
lizi
Rue Abdel Wahab el-Ing
ye
chrafi
38
Rue A
27
Ave de I'Indpendence
60
rm
MAZRAA
Hotel and dry cleaners can do laundry, but

its expensive (around LL2000 for a small
load). There was only one self-service laundromat in Beirut at the time of research.
Laundromatic (Map p422; x03-376 187; Rue Sidani;
Fo
Salam
ACHRAFIYE
e
ddin
Seife
Rue l-Khatib
a
as
am
eD
ed
Saeb
26
Ave Charles Ma
lek
Ru
Ave Rafic
TRANSPORT
Aeolus Travel............................. 69 F4
Avis.........................................(see 32)
Beirut Pullman Terminal Office...70 F4
Budget Rent a Car....................(see 63)
Buses to Beit Mary &
Broummana............................71 F6
Charles Helou Bus Station........(see 70)
Cola Transport Hub................... 72 D6
Europcar.................................... 73 C3
Kurban Tours...........................(see 32)
3
RAMLET
AL-BAYDA
Sursock
65
55
Rue Bechara el-Khoury
SHOPPING
Maison de l'Artisan.................... 68 C3
Blvd
45 46
Rue
St Joseph
University
62
23
56
57
Eglise
St Maron
59
Sodeco Sq
63
35
30
Ave
Charle
s
GEMMAYZEH
Helou
70
48 Rue
53
69
RMEIL
16 43
Pasteur
Rue Gouraud
Cathdrale
St Grgoire et
St Elie des
Armniens Catholiques
VERDUN
To B018 (1.4km);
Dawra Transport
Hub (8km); Jeita Grotto
(17km); Jounieh (20km);
Byblos (41km);
Tripoli (85km)
Ru
Rue
Seli
RAOUCH
52
Port
21
Claiming the quickest connections in town, its also friendly

and helpful albeit rather smoky and dingy.
PC Club (Map p422; x745 338; Rue Mahatma
Gandhi, Hamra; per 30min LL1500; h9am-5am Mon-Sat,
10am-5am Sun) Popular Internet caf thats open later
than most.
Virgin Internet (Map pp418-19; x999 777; 4th fl,
Opera Bldg, Place des Martyrs, Downtown; h10ammidnight Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-1am Fri, 11am-midnight
Sun) At the time of writing, customers had free use of the
Internet, and could bring their own laptops.
Web Caf (Map p422; x03-283 456; Rue Khalidy,
Hamra; per hr LL4000; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat,
noon-midnight Sun) If you want to check your mail whilst
listening to music and sipping a beer (LL3000 to LL4000),
then head here. Theres also a restaurant.
Laundry
sta
Rue Basta
Pigeon
Rocks
Sanayeh
See Hamra & Ras Beirut Map (p422) Public
Garden
B5
E5
E4
E6
D3
Rue St
Nicholas
Rue Chatila
Lebanese
American
University
Rue Madame Curie
18
Rue Emile Edd
24
Eglise St Elie
E5
E5
BEIRUT CENTRAL
DISTRICT
(DOWNTOWN)
Ru
eT
New
rie
Souq Area
Sala
Ave du
Rue Ham
MANARA
39 11
HAMRA
29
de
lle
Old Lighthouse
ine
Gnral de Gau
Rue Bliss
MINET
AL- HOSN
Rue Ahmad Chaouqi
17 13 14
67
22
Omar ed-Daouk
40 Rue Riad
el-Solh
28
Rue Fakhr ed-D
Club Militaire
Central
American University
of Beirut (AUB)
RAS
BEIRUT
73
Ain al-Mreisse
Rue
50
68 58
Minet elHo
e
Ru 33
sn
Rue ibn Sin
a
32
Mosque Ayn 31
al-Mreisse
AIN AL-MREISSE
Rue
51
Rue Cle
mence
au
aris
Stadium
St George
Bay
Cornich
S E A
e Monot
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
ENTERTAINMENT
Al-Mandaloun............................61
Casino........................................62
Circuit Empire Dunes (Dunes
Shopping Center)...................63
Crystal........................................64
Element......................................65
Hippodrome...............................66
Music Hall..................................67
es H
adda
Ave Georg
D3
D3
E4
E4
D3
DRINKING
37..........................................(see 59)
Bar Louie....................................56 F4
Centrale..................................... 57 E4
Dragonfly.................................(see 45)
Godot......................................(see 45)
Hole In The Wall......................(see 59)
La Plage (Club l'Orient)..............58 C3
Lila Braun.................................(see 59)
Pacfico.......................................59 E4
Torino Express.........................(see 45)
Zinc............................................60 E5
by
E3
A4
C3
D
EATING
Abdel Wahab.............................36 E5
Al Dente..................................(see 27)
Al-Balad..................................... 37 E4
Al-Mijana...................................38 E5
Al-Rawda.................................. 39 A4
Al-Sultan Brahim........................ 40 D3
Barbar........................................ 41 D4
Bay Rock Caf........................... 42 A4
Gemmayzeh Caf.......................43 F4
La Posta Gourmet.......................44 E4
La Tabkha.................................. 45 F4
Le Chef...................................... 46 F4
Le Coffee House.........................47 E5
Le Rouge....................................48 F4
Le Sushi Bar................................49 E5
L'O..........................................(see 45)
Manara Palace Caf................... 50 A3
Pasta di Casa..............................51 C3
Ptisserie Ahmad Aouni Hallab
& Fils.....................................52 A4
Paul ...........................................53 E4
Tribeca.......................................54 E5
Yabani........................................55 E5
SLEEPING
Hotel Albergo.............................27 E5
Hotel Monroe............................ 28 D3
Lord's Hotel............................... 29 A4
Pension al-Nazih.........................30 E4
Pension Florida.........................(see 31)
Pension Mhanna......................(see 31)
Pensions Home Valery............... 31 C3
Phoenicia Intercontinental..........32 D3
Regis Hotel................................ 33 C3
Riviera Hotel.............................. 34 A3
Talal's New Hotel.......................35 E4
1 km
0.5 miles
Rue Foch
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Al-Omari Mosque...................... 10
Beirut Luna Park........................ 11
Beirut Swimming Club................12
Beirut-by-Bike Cycling Club
Solidere................................. 13
Bicycles Jeep.............................. 14
Cardo Maximus..........................15
Cyclo Sport.................................16
Espace Starco............................. 17
Grand Serail............................... 18 D4
Hoops Sports Center................(see 14)
Mohammed al-Amin
Mosque................................19 E4
National Museum.......................20 F6
Parliament Building.....................21 E4
Planet Discovery........................ 22 D3
Ramlet al-Bayda.........................23 B5
Roman Baths............................. 24 D4
St George's Cathedral.................25 E4
Sursock Museum........................26 F4
Rue Allen
INFORMATION
Australian Embassy....................(see 1)
UK Embassy................................. 1 D4
Dutch Embassy.............................2 F4
Egyptian Embassy.........................3 B5
French Embassy............................4 F6
General Security Office................ 5 F6
Italian Embassy.............................6 E4
Main Post Office..........................7 E4
Solidere Information
Office...................................... 8 E3
Virgin Internet...........................(see 9)
Virgin Megastore......................... 9 E4
Ave
du Parc
B E I R U T I n f o r m a t i o n 419
Beirut
Ave Abdallah Yafi
71
20
66
To Beit Mary (17km);

Broummana (21km);
Damascus (125km)
To Beirut International
Airport (5km)
Law
Courts
To Nakhal
(50m)
x374 374; Rue du Caire, Ras Beirut; h8am-5pm

Mon-Fri except holidays) Considered the best hospital in
the Middle East; English and French spoken. If youre at
deaths door outside hours, head for the Emergency Unit,
which is open 24/7; its on the right-hand side of the
LEBANON
LEBANON
Beirut
as- Sami
Solh
St
418 B E I R U T
building as you enter the AUBMC down Rue du Caire. The

hospital also provides a current list of pharmacies open 24
hours, and can recommend qualified dentists.
Travel Agencies
Money
Post
-travel.net; Rue Makhoul, Ras Beirut) A student travel

agency offering discounts (between 5% and 10%) on
flights (particularly to Europe, the US and the Gulf ) to
students (with ISIC cards), young people under 26 (with
proof of date of birth) and teachers. Booklets offering
discounts of up to 45% on books, clothes, cafs etc are also
available. ISIC cards can be bought there (US$11, with
passport, passport photo and a letter from your university/
college).
Tania Travel (Map p422; x739 679; www.tania
travel.com; Rue Sidani, Hamra; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
On the 1st floor opposite the old Jeanne dArc
theatre.
Main post office (Map pp418-19; x629 629; Rue Riad

el-Solh, Downtown; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.30pm Sat)
Visa Extensions
There are ATMs all over the city.

Amir Exchange (Map p422; x341 265; Rue Hamra,
Hamra; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat). One of the very few

moneychangers accepting travellers cheques (preferably
dollars), it charges US$2 to US$3 per US$100. Bring your
passport and original purchasers receipt.
Sogetour (Map p422; x747 111; www.sogetour.com.lb;
1st fl, Block A, Gefinor Center, Rue Maamari, Ras Beirut; 2%
commission; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)
The best place to change Amex US-dollar travellers cheques.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Office (Map p422;x343 073;
www.lebanon-tourism.gov.lb; ground fl, Ministry of Tourism
Bldg, Rue Banque du Liban, Hamra; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu,
8am-11am & 1.30-6pm Fri, 8am-1.30pm Sat) Enter from Rue
Banque du Liban. Staff are helpful and also give out quite informative brochures (in six European languages). Well worth
picking up is the series published in 2005, Archaeological
Promenade, on Tyre, Sidon, Tripoli, Baalbek and Beiteddine.
Tourist police office (Map p422; x752 428; fax 343
504; opposite Tourist Information Office; h24hr) For complaints or problems (including robbery), contact this office.
The following are just two of the many Beiruti travel agencies:
Campus Travel (Map p422; x744 588; www.campus
Visas extensions can be obtained on the 2nd

floor of the General Security Office (maktab amn alaam; Map pp418-19; x429 061; www.general-security.gov
.lb; Rue de Damas; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat), be-
side the Ministry of Health in Beirut. Tourist

visas can be extended for a minimum of one
month and a maximum of three months.
Bring two photocopies of passport details (including the original visa) and one
passport-sized photo. The procedure generally takes five to seven days for a tourist visa, and between 14 and 20 days for a
business visa.
BEIRUT IN
Two Days
Kick off the day with some caffeine at the Al-Kahwa caf (p426) before notching the National
Museum (opposite) on your list of sights.
Try mouthwatering mezze for lunch at Al-Balad (p425), then size up startling, sparkling
Solidere (opposite) and its sights. Later, stroll down the Corniche (p422) and sip a sundowner
at sunset at the Bay Rock Caf (p426).
Take tapas and drinks in fashionable Gemmayzeh (p428), fine-dine at its restaurants (p425),
then bar-crawl again or head for Rue Monot (p428).
Hit the hangover with breakfast at Paul (p427) or Tribeca (p427), followed by swimming and
sunbathing at Ramlet al-Bayda (p422) or the Beirut Swimming Club (p422). Later, shop for
souvenirs at Maison de lArtisan (p430) or La CD-Thque (p430). For dinner, seek out seafood
at Al-Sultan Brahim (p425), then bag a bar seat at superslick Centrale (p428). For live jazz,
head for Blue Note (p428), or for live local lutes try Gemmayzeh Cafe (p427). Before bed, hit
the booming Beiruti institution, BO18 (p429).
Four Days
On day three take a day trip to Tyre (p446). On day four, bus to Baalbek (p451) and back, then
live it up one last time in Casino (p429) or Al-Mandaloun (p429).
SURE SAFETY
While Lebanon has seen unrest, demonstrations and political assassination in recent
times, theres little reason to be unduly
alarmed about travel here. One top tip is
to watch the news (as the Lebanese do);
events in Israel and the rest of the Middle East can impact fast upon this little
country.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

The biggest danger and annoyance in
Beirut is the traffic. Rules both on and off the
road are nonexistent, and pedestrians should
take particular care when crossing the road.
Dont forget to carry your passport with
you at all times. Police checkpoints outside
the capital will request them.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Beiruts sights and activities are spread
fairly evenly in a westeast direction, starting from the Corniche, through Hamra and
Ras Beirut into the new Downtown area,
before jumping south to the National Museum and Hippodrome.
Museums
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Light, bright and well laid out, this excellent museum (Map pp418-19; x612 295/7; www.beirut
nationalmuseum.com; cnr Rue de Damas & Ave Abdallah

Yafi; adult/student/child LL5000/1000/1000, guide US$15;
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun except some public holidays) has an
impressive, but not overwhelming, collection

of archaeological artefacts. It gives a great
overview of Lebanons history and the civilisations that made their home here, and is a
useful primer before a trip around the country or a neat round-off after one. Explanatory
panels and captions in English and French
assist. Allow at least an hour.
Highlights include some beautifully observed Phoenician marble statues of baby
boys (from Echmoun, 5th century BC),
lovely 3rd- and 4th-century-AD mosaics,
Byzantine gold jewellery (found in a jar
under the floor of a villa in Beirut) and
the famous, much-photographed Phoenician gilded bronze figurines from Byblos. A
plan is distributed free with tickets.
The museum screens a free 12-minute
video in its theatrette (ground fl; hevery hr 9am-
B E I R U T D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 421
4pm) in English or French on demand, detailing how curators saved the collection
during the civil war.
To get there, walk south from Sodeco
Sq along Rue de Damas for 15 minutes,
or hail a taxi and ask for the Muse or the
Hippodrome.
AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF BEIRUT (AUB)
MUSEUM
The AUB museum (Map p422; x340 549; ddc.aub.edu

.lb/projects/museum/; AUB campus; admission free; h10am4pm Mon-Fri except university & public holidays), just inside the universitys main gate, was founded
in 1868 and is one of the oldest in the Middle
East. On display is a collection of Lebanese
and Middle Eastern artefacts dating back to
the early Stone Age, a fine collection of Phoenician glass and Arab coins from as early as
the 5th century BC, and a large collection of
pottery dating back to 3000 BC.
SURSOCK MUSEUM
The exhibitions of contemporary Lebanese

art vary in quality at this private museum
(Map pp418-19; x 334 133; Rue Sursock, Achrafiye;
admission free; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm), which opens
only when there are exhibitions scheduled

(phone first to check). But the area is still
worth a wander if only to admire the beautiful Ottoman- and French Mandateera
mansions and the luxurious villas including this one (which is owned by the Sursock
family).
Beirut Central District

(Downtown/Solidere)
In the 1970s the Beirut Central District
(now usually called Downtown or Solidere)
was exalted as the Paris of the Middle East.
In the 1980s it was the centre of a war zone,
and in the 1990s it became the focus of a
colossal rebuilding program.
Today, with much of the construction
work finished, the spotlessly clean and
traffic-free streets are so unlike the rest of
the city that it has an almost surreal feel.
Indeed, the whole area, though impressive, has been criticised for it Disneyesque
flavour, with ersatz Ottoman and French
Mandateera architecture almost indistinguishable from the restored real thing.
Nevertheless, the area has undeniably
succeeded and is now an upmarket and
fashionable part of the city.
LEBANON
LEBANON
420 B E I R U T I n f o r m a t i o n
The Solidere Information Office (Map pp41819; x980 650; www.solidere.com; Bldg 149, Rue Saad
Zaghloul; admission free; h8.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm
Mon-Fri) has well-crafted display models and
Rafiq Hariri who was largely responsible for

the bid to rebuild Downtown (but killed by
a car bomb in early 2005), it has a particular place in the heart of Beirutis. St Georges
Cathedral (Map pp418-19; x561 980; services 7.15am &
6.60pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am & 11am Sun) is a Maronite
church dating from the Crusades. Wellpreserved and well-restored are the Roman
baths (Map pp41819) and the cardo maximus
(Map pp41819), the evocative remains of a
Roman-era market area, and the Grand Serail,
a majestic Ottoman-era building now housing government offices including the PMs.
information panels outlining the redevelopment. Staff can suggest walking-tour

routes. At nearby Place des Martyrs, take a
peek at the before-and-after exhibition of
photographs of the area.
If you devise your own walking tour, dont
miss the Al-Omari Mosque (Map pp41819),
built in the 12th century as the Church of
John the Baptist of the Knights Hospitaller
and converted into a mosque in 1291, and
the new and impressive Mohammed al-Amin
Mosque (Map pp41819), which is currently
under construction. Funded by the ex-PM
Corniche
The Corniche (seafront) is a favourite promenade spot, especially in late afternoon and
0
0
HAMRA & RAS BEIRUT

A
EATING
Al-Kahwa...................................23
Barbar........................................ 24
Bliss House.................................25
Casablanca................................ 26
Co-op........................................ 27
Idriss Supermarket......................28
Pepita........................................ 29
Snack Hamadeh......................... 30
ENTERTAINMENT
Thre al-Medina...................... 34 D4
SHOPPING
La CD-Thque........................... 35 C3
Nargileh Seller............................36 B4
Yahya Express Photofinishing
Specialist................................ 37 C4
TRANSPORT
City Car..................................... 38 A4
Middle East Airlines..................(see 11)
26
17
Rue Makhoul
31
Rue
l Aziz
Rue Emile Edd
24
20
ence
au
i
l Bak
bde
Rue
Sou
rati
e
m
Ro
Eglise
Catholique
St Franois
34
Eglise
Sts Pierre
& Paul
Rue
de
u Caire
2 32
Rue d
Rue Baalbek
Rue
Hamra
Mosque
Oma
33
r Ben
dissi
ra
7
Rue Maamari
Abde
Rue Mak
28
11
1
Clem
MA
e d'A
35
Rue Ham
36
38
Rue Je
ann
et
Rue Neam Yaf
aye
ndhi
atma Ga
ine G
em
Rue Mah
27
Ain al-Mreisse; adult/child Sun-Thu LL15,000/10,000, Fri &

Sat LL20,000/10,000; h8am-7pm) has a lovely pool
BEIRUT FOR CHILDREN
18
rc
Rue Labban
Rue Anto
wait
de Ku
Rue Sadat
Rue
iyine
early evening (in time for the sunset) and on

weekends. This is Beirut at its best a few
hours of people-watching here will be one of
the best things you do in Lebanon.
If you fancy a dip, the only public beach is
the rather litter-strewn and predominantly
male Ramlet al-Bayda (Map pp41819), the
strips of sand fringing this part of town,
from which it gets its name. A better option is one of the many private beach clubs.
Though theyre less about swimming and
more about seeing and being seen, theyre
convenient, well equipped (many with
pleasant pools, bars, snack bars, dressing
areas etc) and well maintained. The Beirut
Swimming Club (Map pp418-19; x365 999; Corniche,
and terrace directly above the seafront.
uk
Omar ed-Dao
12
19
AIN AL-MREISSE
Rue Rusto
m
Bacha
22 25
14
Rue Khalid
y
HAMRA
The rebuilding of Beiruts Central District

is one of the largest and most ambitious
urban redevelopment projects in the world.
This area was blown to pieces in the civil
war and its rebuilding is not just practical
but also strongly symbolic. The project covers 1.8 million sq metres of land, plus over
608,000 sq metres reclaimed from the sea.
Phase One saw the arrival of upmarket
shops and some of the hippest restaurants
and cafs in town. Phase Two, under way at
the time of writing, involves a new marina
and building on reclaimed land.
A bonus has been the unearthing of many
archaeological finds issuing from just about
every period of Beiruts history.
15
23
oukh
Ru
eV
an
Dy
Rue ck
AUB Main Gate
Rue Bliss
Rue Adonis
21
Rue
George
Post
Rue Sidani
Tann
ris
29
16
American University
of Beirut (AUB)
10
Rue
M E D I T E R R A N E A
S E A
de P
a
Ave
Stadium
SLEEPING
Cedarland Hotel.........................18 C3
Marble Tower Hotel...................19 B3
B3
C4
C3
D2
B4
C3
C2
D4
DRINKING
Blue Note...................................31 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

American Language Center........15 C3
American University of Beirut.....16 B2
AUB Museum.............................17 C3
RAS
BEIRUT
Chez Andr................................32 C4
De Prague..................................33 C4
Pickwick Pub............................(see 19)
Rue
Rue Q
ahira
THE NEW BEIRUT
300 m
0.2 miles
Royal Garden Hotel................... 20 C4

Seaside Furnished Flats.............. 21 D2
University Hotel......................... 22 C3
INFORMATION
American University of Beirut
Hospital................................... 1 D3
Amir Exchange............................ 2 C4
Books & Pens............................... 3 B3
Campus Travel............................. 4 C3
Gefinor Center............................. 5 D3
Laundromatic...............................6 B3
Librairie Antoine...........................7 B4
Naufal Booksellers........................8 C3
Pass Par Tout............................... 9 C3
PC Club......................................10 B3
Sogetour.................................... 11 D3
Tania Travel...............................orniche
C 12 B3
Tourist Information Office
(Ministry of Tourism)..............13 D4
Paris
Tourist Police Office.................(see 13)
Ave de
Web Caf...................................14 B3
30
Rue Banque du Liban
13
Rue Spears
37
Sanayeh
Public
Garden
B E I R U T B e i r u t f o r C h i l d re n 423
Beirut and the Beirutis welcome children

and there are numerous activities for
them. Family Fun in Lebanon (LL18,000),
by Charlotte Hamaoui and Sylvia Palamoudian, is a useful guide.
The Espace Starco (Map pp418-19; Downtown)
area has a fun park (admission free, rides LL30005000; h erratic, usually noon-7pm) with activities including go-carts, pony riding and a
trampoline. In the parks far eastern corner
you can hire decent-quality childrens (and
adults) bikes from Bicycles Jeep (Map pp41819; x03-539 603; h3-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun)
and, opposite, the excellent Beirut-by-Bike
Cycling Club Solidere (Map pp418-19; x03-435 524;

jawadsbeity@hotmail.com; h8am-8pm), which occasionally organises bike-gymkhanas for
kids. Bikes in both places cost LL4000 per
hour, or US$10/30/70 per day/week/month.
In 2007 the company will probably move to
another location in Solidere. Behind Bicycle
Jeeps is Hoops Sports Center (Map pp418-19; x371
713), which offers various ball sports. Beirut Luna Park (Map pp418-19; x03-889 659; Ave du
Gnral de Gaulle; admission free, rides all LL500; h10ammidnight) has around 10 different rides plus
a big wheel.
Planet Discovery (Map pp418-19; x980 650; Espace
Starco; Rue Omar ed-Daouk; adult & child LL5000; h9am3pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri, 10.30am-7pm Sat) is a
French-sponsored science museum for children aged three to 15 with a playhouse, toys,
puzzles and interactive displays. On some
Fridays (at 4pm and 5pm) and Saturdays
(3pm, 4pm and 5pm) there are puppet or
magic shows (LL5000 on top of admission).
TOURS
Various tour companies including Kurban
Tours (Map pp418-19; x01-363 848; www.kurbantravel
.com; Phoenicia Intercontinental, Minet al-Hosn; h8am6pm Mon-Sat) offer three-hour city tours for
around US$22 per person.

The Beirut-by-Bike Cycling Club Solidere (left)
offers various excellent (free) guided tours
by bike including Beirut Historical Background from 7pm to 9pm Tuesday and
Thursday, Pedal For Fun (a 15km to 45km
day excursion outside Beirut) every second
Sunday in the month and Ladies on Bikes
from 7pm to 9pm every Thursday.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Beirut International Marathon (www.beirut
marathon.org) Held in early October, it includes
wheelchair events.
Mid East Film Festival Beirut (www.beirutfilmfoun
dation.org) Also held in October, showcases films from
both Lebanon and the rest of the Middle East.
SLEEPING
Budget
Cheap accommodation isnt easy to find in

Beirut. The Ain al-Mreisse is the more pleasant location, but the area around Charles
Helou is closer to Rue Monot, one of the
citys main nightclub and eating strips.
Pension al-Nazih (Map pp418-19; x564 868; www
.pension-alnazih.8m.com; Rue Chanty; dm/s/d with TV & fan
LEBANON
LEBANON
422 B E I R U T S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s
Hamra & Ras Beirut
US$6/10/15, d with bathroom, TV & air-con US$25; ia)
Located near the bus station, the hotel is a

friendly, spotless and homely place. Some
rooms have small balconies. There are free
hot showers and laundry facilities (US$3 a
load). To find it, turn off Ave Charles Helou
into Rue Chanty. Lonely Planet has heard
from one female traveller that she was assaulted in her room at this pension.
Talals New Hotel (Map pp418-19; x562 567;
zsal72tnh@yahoo.com; Ave Charles Helou; dm/s/d/tr some

with private shower & TV, fridge & balcony US$6/14/18/21;
ia) Though rooms are small, simple
and reasonably clean, the hotels best assets are its facilities: theres free access to the
kitchen and Internet, free hot showers and
laundry facilities (US$2 per load).
Regis Hotel (Map pp418-19; x361 845; Rue Khoda
off Rue ibn Sina, Ain al-Mreisse; s/d/tr with bathroom, TV &
fridge US$20/25/30; ai) Though next to an
old bomb site and looking a little war-weary

itself, its a friendly place and the rooms are
pretty clean. Some have access to a large,
common balcony; ask for one with direct
sea views.
Long on the beaten path of Beirut backpackers are four pensions in the same
building, located next to the Wash Me car
wash. To find them, head for the rear of the
building, past some lifts, to Block C where
youll find more lifts. As theyre all much
of a muchness, and rooms are only reasonably clean, theyre best reserved for those
on their last Lebanese lira.
Pension Home Valery (Map pp418-19; x362 169;
homevalery@hotmail.com; 2nd fl, Saab Bldg, Rue Phoenicia off

Rue ibn Sina, Ain al-Mreisse; beds in 2-bed/3-bed dm US$6, s/d
US$8/12; i) is probably the friendliest and best
managed. Guests have free use of the kitchen.

All rooms have fan; the salon has air-con.
Internet access costs LL6000 per hour. On
the 3rd floor is the confusingly same-named
Pension Home Valery (x364 906; pensionvalery3rdflr@
hotmail.com). Prices, facilities and cleanliness are
similar. The Pension Mhanna (x365 216; 5th fl) is
slightly cheaper but more basic. The Pension
Florida (x374 629; 5th fl; s US$6, d US$13-15, tr US$17)
is not bad either, with its large and pleasant common balcony where you can sleep.
Theres also use of the kitchen.
Midrange
Seaside Furnished Flats (Map p422; x363 200; www
.beirutflats.com; Rue George Post, Ain al-Mreisse; studio
flat with/without TV US$69/49.50; api) With
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

Hotel Albergo (Map pp41819; x339 797;
www.albergobeirut.com; Rue Abdel Wahab elInglizi, Achrafiye; d/royal ste US$275/1212;
sia) Ranked among the best hotels
in the Middle East, the Orientalist-fantasy
Albergo defines the expression boutique
hotel. Each of its 33 rooms is individually
and opulently decorated and the service is
faultless. Ask for a room with a terrace. If
you cant stay here, you can always come
for a drink on its lovely roof terrace.
(swimming pool, health club and bar) make

it an attractive option.
Lords Hotel (Map pp418-19; x740 382/3; fax 740
385; off Ave du Gnral de Gaulle, Corniche, Manara; s/d with

bathroom TV, fridge & breakfast US$40/50; a) Though
a little frayed around the edges, the hotels

great location close to the seafront makes it
a good summer choice. Prices are modest
(though they may soon increase). Ask for a
room with direct sea views; we recommend
room 408.
Top End
Riviera Hotel (Map pp418-19; x373 210; www.riviera
an enviable position by the sea, these fully

furnished, one-bedroom flats represent
great value. Rooms are basic but clean and
spacious with a big balcony, fully-equipped
kitchen, bathroom and lounge. Ask for a
sea view (from 3rd to 8th floor). Long-stay
rates are US$750 per month. Internet access
costs LL5000 per hour.
Cedarland Hotel (Map p422; x340 233; info@
cedarlandhotel.com; Rue Omar ben Abdel Aziz, Hamra; s/d

with bathroom, TV & fridge US$37/42, ste US$53-150;
breakfast US$5; a) A reasonably priced and
friendly spot; rooms here are light and

pleasant and have access to a kitchenette
(on each floor) and a washing machine. Ask
for a room with balcony with side views
(3rd floor and above).
Marble Tower Hotel (Map p422; x354 586, 346
260; www.marbletower.com.lb; Rue Makdissi, Hamra; s/d

with bathroom, TV & buffet breakfast US$55/66, ste US$100120; a) Well named for its miles of mar-
ble, the hotel is most popular for its central

Hamra location. Recently renovated rooms
are attractive and comfy and represent great
value; rooms at the back dont have balconies, but are quieter. Attached to the hotel
is the Pickwick Pub (admission free, open
4pm to 4am), which also serves food.
University Hotel (Map p422; x365 390; www.uni
versity-hotel.net; 19 Rue Bliss, Ras Beirut; s with bathroom,

TV & minibar US$25-30, d with bathroom, TV & minibar
US$35-40; a) Diagonally opposite the AUB
(just off the street, above McDonalds), this

hotel is a popular student choice. Rooms
are small but very clean and good value. Fifteen rooms have balconies with sea views.
Royal Garden Hotel (Map p422; x 350 010;
rogarden@dm.net.lb; Rue Emile Edd, Hamra; d with

bathroom US$66; a) Although its located on
one of Beiruts busiest streets, its facilities
B E I R U T E a t i n g 425
hotel.com.lb; the Corniche, Manara; s/d with sea views &

breakfast US$150/170, with rear views & breakfast US$130/
150 plus 10% tax; asi) With the best hotel
beach club in Beirut (offering two swimming pools, a diving school, facilities for jetskiing, water-skiing etc), good restaurants,
and room balconies with gorgeous views,
this is the place in summer. Nonguests can
use the Riviera Yacht Club (adults during
week/weekend US$10/13, children US$6/7,
open 8am to 8pm between March and midOctober, depending on the weather), with
its Olympic-sized pool and childrens pool
(complete with lifeguards and crche) both
set attractively by the seafront.
Phoenicia Intercontinental (Map pp418-19;
x369 100; www.intercontinental.com; Rue Fakhr edDine, Minet el-Hosn; s US$310-330, d US$490-520, ste
US$945-14,000; 1-/3-bed/penthouse apt US$1000/2750/
10,000; sai) Long the queen of the pre
civil war days, the Phoenicias now back with

a vengeance. A small escalator helps guest
who cant make the red-carpeted stairs. Five
high-quality restaurants including Caff
Mondo (Italian), Eau de Vie (French) and
Wok Wok (Asian) also reside here.
Hotel Monroe (Map pp418-19; x371 122; www.mon
roebeirut.com; Rue Fakhr ed-Dine, Minet al-Hosn; s/d with
bathroom US$150/165, ste US$300-400, plus 10% tax;
sai) Hippest on the block is this per-
fect 1960s recreation. Ask for a room with

direct sea views. Unlike many hotels, the
Monroes pool is open year-round.
EATING
Beirutis love to eat out and their capital is
famous for its eating establishments. Theres
a great range of cuisine at a wide variety of
places and prices. And almost every month
a new places bursts on the scene. The biggest problem is the choice.
Beirutis often dress for dinner and eat

quite late (most wont arrive before 9.30pm).
Reservations are advised (essential at weekends or during the high season). Most restaurants also do hotel delivery.
Restaurants
LEBANESE/MIDDLE EASTERN
Al-Sultan Brahim (Map pp418-19; x989 989; Rue

Omar ed-Daouk, Downtown; h noon-midnight; a )
Considered the best fish restaurant in Lebanon, Al-Sultan has been run by the same
family for 35 years and has kept its reputation and quality. The menu is small but
select; choose your own fish (and method of
cooking) from the days catch as you enter
the restaurant. The set menu (lunch/dinner
US$35) with its choice of mezze, fish main
plus open bar is good value. Choose between the cool and civilised restaurant and
the terrace and parasols outside.
Al-Mijana (Map pp418-19; x328 082; Rue Abdel
Wahab el-Inglizi, Achrafiye; h9am-3.30pm & 7.30pmmidnight; a) In the restored house of an
aristocrat with a shady, peaceful garden,

this old-timers known for its Lebanese
food. If youre looking for a final splurge
or a last romantic evening, this might fit
the bill. We recommend the three-course
set menu (including 11 mezze) plus open
bar for US$35.30.
Al-Balad (Map pp418-19; x985 375, Rue Ahdab,
off Place dtoile, Downtown; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri,

11am-1am Sat; a) With traditional Lebanese
cooking prepared to its own special recipes,

THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Le Chef (Map pp418-19; x445 373; Rue Gou-
raud, Gemmayzeh; 2-course meal LL10,000;

h7am-7pm Mon-Sat) Beloved for years by
both locals and visitors to Beirut, this cheap

and cheerful place serves up good food at
good prices in a good atmosphere, as one
regular patron put it. Huge plates of homestyle Arabic and Western food are served.
Daily specials from couscous to shepherds
pie are listed in French and Arabic but the
helpful waiters are always happy to translate or make recommendations; ask for the
entertaining waiter Charbel. No credit cards
accepted, but theres an ATM nearby. At the
time of writing, the restaurant was planning
to open in the evenings too.
LEBANON
LEBANON
424 B E I R U T S l e e p i n g
this is one of the best places for mezze (from

LL3300 to LL9900). Try the delicious and
slightly spicy red hummus.
Abdel Wahab (Map pp418-19; x200 552; Rue Abdel
Wahab el-Inglizi; Achrafiye; hnoon-1am; a) This
restaurant has an impressive Orientalistmeets-modernist interior and a growing
following. The set plateaux (plates) hors
doeuvre for LL13,000, or mezze, grill and
salad for LL12,000 to LL17,500 offer value
for money. From May to October, the pleasant terrace on the 1st floor opens.
La Tabkha (Map pp418-19; x579 000; Rue Gouraud,
Gemmayzeh; mains with salad LL12,000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; a) One of the best
options for vegetarians, theres also an allyou-can-eat veggie antipasti buffet served
daily for US$6.50.
ASIAN
Le Sushi Bar (Map pp418-19; x338 555; Rue Abdel
Wahab el-Inglizi, Achrafiye; sushi per 2 pieces LL50007000, set menu LL32,500-38,500; h noon-3.30pm &
7-11.30pm; a) Credited with the launch of
the sushi craze in Beirut, this restaurant

has also featured in Vogue Paris feature
100 Best Restaurants in the World. Decorated au japonais (with bamboo especially
imported), its sushi is known for its quality and freshness. The Imperial Selection
dishes (such as marinated scallop) are to
die for, but so also are the prices (LL17,000
to LL36,000). Reservations for dinner are a
must (48 hours ahead on weekends).
Yabani (Map pp418-19; x211 113; Rue de Damas,
Achrafiye; average meal with wine LL65,000, set lunch
LL36,300; h10.30am-3.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat,
8.30pm-midnight Sun; a) Designed by Bernard
Khoury, its innovative, exciting and fun.

Guests take the glass elevator down to the
restaurant sunk like a bowl in the ground.
The sushi is excellent salmon is flown in
twice weekly from Scotland, apparently.
FRENCH
Le Rouge (Map pp418-19; x442 366; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; mains from LL9000; pizzas from LL6000; h10am11.30pm; a) This contemporary-style French
restaurant has good bistro food at excellent

prices. Reservations advised.
INTERNATIONAL
LO (Map pp418-19; x03-199 005; Rue Gouraud, Gem-
mayzeh; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 8pmmidnight Sun; a) Cool, contemporary and
packed this restaurant has an awardwinning chef who offers superb fusion cuisine such as seared duck breast with sweet
potato mash and balsamic reduction.
Casablanca (Map p422; x369 334; Rue Ain al-
Mreisse, Ain al-Mreisse; brunch LL28,000, set-menu lunch

LL33,000, dinner LL55,000; h12.30-3.30pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; a) In a renovated Ottoman villa
overlooking the Corniche, the restaurants

an old favourite among the well-heeled.
The speciality is seafood and its international cuisine is high-class like its clients.
Reserve a table with a sea view. Enter the
restaurant from the side street opposite the
Lalipco petrol station.
this is a great place to do it. There are also

veggie options (pizza LL6000, pasta LL8000
and baked potatoes LL3000).
Pepita (Map p422; x370 096; Ave de Paris, Corniche,
Ras Beirut; sundaes LL4000-12,000, milkshakes LL4500, ice
creams from LL1000; h6am-2am; a) A branch of
the famous Tal al-Moulouk, this is a heaven

for sweet-tooths. With its spectacular array
of pastries, delicious ice cream and a pleasant terrace, it makes the perfect pit stop
when walking the length of the Corniche.
Gemmayzeh Cafe (Map pp418-19; x580 817; Rue
Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; beer LL3500-4000, grills LL10,000;

h24hr except 2-8am Mon; a) Something of a
Clemenceau, Ras Beirut; mains around LL12,000; hnoonmidnight; a) With its rafters, checked curtains
Beiruti institution, the caf resembles an

old Parisian bistro. Its special attraction is
its live Arabic music. Shows (10.30pm to
midnight) take place every night except
Tuesday.
Tribeca (Map pp418-19; x 339 123; Rue Abdel
Wahab el-Inglizi, Achrafiye; h7am-1am; a) Beloved
by academics and journalists, the cosy but
contemporary Tribeca prides itself on its
coffee and homemade bagels (LL1250). Its
a terrific place for breakfast (serving everything from omelettes to pancakes with
peanut butter and jelly).
Paul (Map pp418-19; Ave Georges Haddad, Gem-
Cafs
A French franchise and really a restaurant,

its another great place for breakfast with its
home-baked croissants and cakes. Theres
an attractive if rather trafficky little terrace.
Manara Palace Caf (Map pp418-19; x364 949;
ITALIAN
Al Dente (Map pp418-19; x202 440, 333 333; 137 Rue

Abdel Wahab el-Inglizi, Achrafiye; starters LL11-38,000,
mains LL14,500-38,000; hnoon-3pm & 8.30-11pm SunFri, 8.30-11pm Sat; a) Suitably grand and resplendent as befits its home in the Hotel
Albergo, this restaurant has also been called
the best Italian restaurant in the Middle
East. The food is excellent.
Pasta di Casa (Map pp418-19; x363 368; Rue
and tablecloths, youd be forgiven for thinking you were in Italy. If youre kebabed-out,
this family-run place is a good choice. Pasta is
homemade. Credit cards are not accepted.
Bay Rock Caf (Map pp418-19; x796 700; Ave du
Gnral de Gaulle, Raouch; set tourist menu per person
US$16.50; h7am-3am, summer 24hr; a) Spectacu-
larly situated overlooking Pigeon Rocks

(one of the icons of Beirut), this caf is an
essential port of call. Food is on the pricey
side but is good quality and fresh. The outdoor terrace is great place for breakfast
(from LL4400) or a sundowner. Live music
can be heard nightly from midnight to 3am,
and belly dancers usually perform from 2am
to 2.30am at weekends.
Al-Kahwa (Map p422; x362 232; Al-Kanater Bldg,
Rue Bliss, Ras Beirut; h9am-1am; a) With its
Moorish interior, this place combines style
and friendliness with decent and well-priced
food (Western and Lebanese). Its a popular
hangout of AUB students during the day. At
night, locals come for a game of backgammon or to smoke a nargileh. If you fancy
trying the latter (LL10,000 to LL12,000),
B E I R U T D r i n k i n g 427
mayzeh; mains LL12,000-26,500; h8am-midnight; a)
the Corniche, Manara; mains around LL11,000; h24hr;

a) With its lovely terrace slap bang on the
waterfront and fresh fish at good prices, this

is popular with Lebanese families particularly at weekends. Theres also a small childrens park. At night, from 10pm to 2am,
theres live Arabic music (admission free).
Al-Rawda (Map pp418-19; x743 348; Corniche,
Manara; grills LL8500; h7.30am-midnight summer, 8am8pm winter; a) The only place in Beirut with
a shaded garden right on the seafront, this

is a peaceful and tranquil little haven serving quite good food at reasonable prices.
Le Coffee House (Map pp418-19; x 211 115;
Rue Monot; sandwiches & snacks from LL7500, mains

LL13,500-26,000, kids menu LL7500-9000; h9am-midnight Sun-Thu, 9am to 1am Fri & Sat; a) Located
opposite Crystal, with its large and lovely

terrace this stylish caf is an oasis in madding Monot. Try the Compose Your Own
Salad speciality.
Ptisserie Ahmad Aouni Hallab & Fils (Map

pp418-19; x789 999; Ave du Gnral de Gaulle, Raouch;
cake & ice cream from LL1000-1500; h5.30am-11.30pm/
1am winter/summer; a) Also recommended,
this has a terrace opposite the seafront.
Quick Eats
Barbar (Map p422; Rue Omar ben Abdel Aziz, Hamra;
h24hr; a) A phenomenally popular chain
selling everything from mezze and shwarma

to BBQ chicken wings and vegetarian pizza,
as well as pastries, ice cream and fantastic
fresh juice. Theres an indoor seating area.
Theres also a branch on Rue Spears, Hamra
(Map pp41819, open 24 hours).
Bliss House (Map p422; Rue Bliss, Ras Beirut; h7am5am; a) Cheaper than Barbar, and always
packed with AUB students, Bliss has three
shop fronts offer decent-quality fast food at
good prices including shwarma (LL3000),
kebabs (LL3000 to LL3500), fresh juice
(LL2000 to LL3250) and ice cream (LL1750
to LL2000).
Snack Hamadeh (Map p422; Rue de Rome, Hamra;
h 7am-7pm Mon-Sat) This tiny family-run
food stall does a roaring trade with fat-cat
businessmen who seek out the home-baked
and delicious Lebanese pizzas (LL250 to
LL2000).
Self-Catering
Supermarkets such as Co-op (Map p422; x712
879 Rue Makdissi, Hamra; h8am-10pm) and Idriss
Supermarket (Map p422; x745 255; Rue Sourati,
Hamra; h 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun) offer a
wide range of fresh and quality produce and
products (including baby food and infants
dried milk).
At the Co-op, theres also a bread, cheese
and patisserie counter and, next door, a liquor store. For a treat or a deluxe picnic,
check out La Posta Gourmet (Map pp418-19; x990
707; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat),
a fabulous Italian delicatessen selling more
than 55 varieties of cheese and charcuterie,
prepared dishes, olives etc.
DRINKING
Beirut has an embarrassment of riches
when it comes to bars. Though numerous,
theyre not cheap and youll find yourself
paying for the after-hour entertainment
dearly. A local beer will generally set you
back from LL7000 to LL9000 and a cocktail
costs LL9500 to LL14000 or more. Between
LEBANON
LEBANON
426 B E I R U T E a t i n g
7pm and 8pm many bars have happy hour,

when drinks are up to 50% cheaper. For
more information on the hottest areas to
hang out, see opposite).
Achrafiye
Centrale (Map pp418-19; x915 925; Rue Mar Maroun, Achrafiye; hkitchen 8pm-12.30am, bar 8pm-2am;
a) Designed by Beiruti architect Bernard
Khoury, this is arguably the capitals most

stylish place. If you cant afford the excellent French cuisine in its industrial-chic
interior, head for the lively barrel-shaped
bar on the top floor with its roof that opens.
To find it, look for the leafy alleyway near
the ruined archway, about 20m east of the
Eglise St Maron.
Pacfico (Map pp418-19; Rue Monot, Achrafiye; admission free; h7pm-1.30/2.30am; a) Styling itself
on 1920s and 30s Havana after Prohibition, this club prides itself on its food
(Cuban-Mexican) and lengthy cocktail list
(more than 200 listings) as much as its atmosphere. Its frequented by expats.
Lila Braun (Map pp418-19; Rue Monot, Achrafiye; ad-
quarter of Gemmayzeh. Beer (from LL4000)

spirits (from LL7000) and cocktails (from
LL9500) are no bargain, but theres usually
a happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.
Bar Louie (Map pp418-19; admission free, with live
band LL8000; h11am-2.30am; a) Has a particularly lively atmosphere and plays jazz, Latin
and Blues music. Bands usually play five
times a week (not Wednesdays and Saturdays) from 10pm to 12.30am.
Also recommended are Dragonfly (Map pp41819; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat), Torino Express (Map pp41819; h8am-2am Mon-Sat) and Godot (Map pp418-19;
h8am-2am Mon-Fri).
Hamra
up the hip stakes is this well-designed 80sstyle bar. The entrance is opposite Pacfico,
through an unmarked hallway.
37 (Map pp418-19; Rue Monot, Achrafiye; h7pm3am; a) Less pretentious and very popular
with students and graduates for its bargain
beers (LL5000), this pub gives students with
an ISIC card a 20% discount on drinks. Its
a few metres down from Lila Braun.
Hole In The Wall (Map pp418-19; Rue Monot,
Achrafiye; beer LL5000; h6pm-2/3am; a) Particularly popular with expats, this place has
been described as an unofficial tourist office with alcohol!
Blue Note (Map p422; x743 857; Rue Makhoul, Hamra;

hnoon-1am Mon-Sat; a) A restaurant-cum
jazz bar plastered with photos of musicians
whove performed here, this is one of the
best places to hear jazz and blues in Lebanon. Local and sometimes international
bands perform at least every Thursday,
Friday and Saturday. Admission (LL8800
for local bands; LL19,800 for international)
is only charged on evenings when music
is live. Beer costs upwards of LL4290 and
wine/cocktails will set you back LL9350 or
more. Reserve at weekends.
Chez Andr (Map p422; Rue Hamra, Hamra; admission
free; h8am-4am Mon-Sat) A favourite watering
hole of the international set of the 70s, this
tiny bar is something of an institution and
is much beloved by local academics, artists
and journalists. Try the house speciality: a
dark and dangerous cocktail called Dracula. Its inside the arcade on Rue Hamra.
De Prague (Map p422; Rue Makdissi, Hamra; admission
free; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat; a) Relatively new to
the scene, this place is cool but also laidback and friendly.
Corniche
Sodeco
La Plage (Map pp418-19; Corniche, Ain al-Mreisse; beer

from LL4500; h10am-midnight Apr-Sep; a) Though
not cheap, this is a great place for a sundowner either in the Orientalist interior or
outside on the terraces (amid the boats, cigars and yachting shoes). Part of the Club
lOrient, eating here entitles you to free use
of the Beirut Swimming Club next door.
Zinc (Map pp418-19; Rue Seifeddine al-Khatib, Sodeco;

beer LL8000; h8.30pm2am Mon-Sat; a) Another
mission free; h8pm-2am Mon-Fri, 8pm-4am Sat & Sun;

a) In at the time of writing and hopping
Gemmayzeh
The following bars are all cheek-by-jowl
along Rue Gouraud in the newly fashionable
popular restaurant-cum-bar-cum-club set

in an old Ottoman house; the atmosphere is
friendlier than some, and theres a pleasant
outdoor garden.
ENTERTAINMENT
Beirut now claims to be the party capital
of the Middle East. A visit may well convince you and a night on the town is not
to be missed. The typical Beiruti night out
B E I R U T E n t e r t a i n m e n t 429
consists of a dinner with friends at a good

restaurant (with optional apritif at the
restaurant or elsewhere beforehand) from
around 9.30pm to 11pm, followed by some
bar hopping to around 1am or 2am, followed by a stint at an after hours nightclub
such as BO18, which should take you nicely
to breakfast! During the summer months,
the vibrant Maameltein nightclub strip in
Jounieh 21km north of Beirut jerks into life.
The Guide should keep you in the loop.
Many clubs also serve as restaurants and
bars. Beirutis like to come to eat at these
places between 9pm and 11pm, then get
up to drink and dance (when the tables are
cleared away). If you want to eat also, a
reservation is essential; otherwise you can
just turn up for a drink at the bar. Generally the music matches the moment: soft
music for the diners, gradually vamped up
in readiness for the full-on dance music
after midnight. Note that the dress code
is smart.
Nightclubs
Element (Map pp418-19; x212 100; cnr Rue Universit
St Joseph & Rue de Damas, Achrafiye; admission free, beer

LL7800; h8.30pm-4am; a) Designed like an
underground bunker, the look is industrialchic. Though its one of the top spots, drinks
arent prohibitive and the atmosphere is still
friendly and fun. Locals in the know come
on Sunday; at weekends its heaving. Under21s are not permitted entry.
Crystal (Map pp418-19; x332 523; 243 Rue Monot,

Achrafiye; admission free, beer LL12,000; h kitchen
9pm-1am Tue-Sun, bar 9pm-5am; a) This is a very
popular place that has set its sights firmly

on the rich and the very rich, and caters
to them with both food and wine (including Petrus for LL5,500,000) but when the
tables are cleared the club gets going!
Despite an interior thats plush and rather
hideous, the music and atmosphere are
oh-so-cool and also fun. Peak time is 1am
onwards.
Al Mandaloun (Map pp418-19; x611 411; Rue
Seifeddine al-Khatib, Achrafiye; admission free, beer

LL18,000; h9pm-3/4am Mon-Sat; a) Popular par-
ticularly with a 30-something Arab clientele, this is where the wealthy, the glitzy and
the ritzy hang out. Music is mixed Arab and
international and from 1.30am live music
replaces the DJ. Monday is considered the
best night.
Casino (Map pp418-19; x656 777; Sodeco Sq; ad-
mission free, cover charge incl meal & 2 drinks US$45 Fri
& Sat; drinks with/without meal LL15,000/12,000, mains
LL17,000-30,000; h11.30pm-5am Tue-Sun; a) An-
other restaurant-cum-nightclub, this was

one of the top three hottest places to be
seen when we visited.
Cinemas
Circuit Empire Dunes (Map pp418-19; x792 123;
www.circuit-empire.com; Dunes Shopping Center, Rue Verdun, Verdun; tickets afternoon/evening shows LL5500/7500;
h2.30pm, 5pm, 8pm, 10pm; a) One of the larg-
est and most modern cinemas.
THE AUTHORS CHOICE

BO18 (Map pp418-19; x580 018; Beirut-Jounieh
Hwy, La Quarantaine; admission free, beer LL11,000;

h9pm-5am or later) Next to Forum de Bey-
routh, just past the old train station, this

is the most famous nightclub in Lebanon.
Designed by Lebanese architect Bernard
Khoury, it looks more like a bomb shelter
than a nightclub. Its roof opens through
an ingenious system of truck hydraulics,
and seats fold away to form tables on
which to dance. It lies about 1.5km from
the edge of Downtown; a taxi will take you
there for LL10,000 to LL15,000. Its an after
hours place: most people come from 2am
onwards. Uniquely, no food is served and
bookings are not accepted. The clienteles
age range is generally 18 to 30.
Theatre
Unfortunately, the old-timer Thtre de Beyrouth was closed at the time of research.
Thtre al-Medina (Map p422; x753 010; masmad@
cyberia.net.lb; Saroulla Bldg, Rue Hamra, Hamra; tickets depending on seat & performance LL10,000-30,000; top seats
extra LL5,000; h8.30-10/11pm Tue-Sun mid-Sepend
Jul; a) The theatre hosts well-staged plays
and musicals (some in English and French),

concerts and recitals. From September to
May, there is sometimes childrens theatre;
the rest of the year it operates as a cinema.
Its found behind the Kabab-Ji restaurant
on Rue Hamra. Book at least one day in
advance.
Live Music
Music Hall (Map pp418-19; x361 236; Starco Center,
Downtown; admission free, beer LL11,000; h10.30pm-
LEBANON
LEBANON
428 B E I R U T E n t e r t a i n m e n t
3/4am Thu-Sat; a) This converted theatre has
fabulous and diverse live music shows from

11.30pm (with short breaks when a DJ takes
over). The entrance is at the rear of the
Starco Center.
Some cafs, bars and nightclubs also put
on live music. See p426 and p429.
Spectator Sport
Hippodrome (Map pp418-19; x632 515; Ave Abdal-
lah Yafi; admission LL5000-15,000; hmost weekends)
This racing venue is one of the few places

you can legally bet in the Middle East; the
Lebanese love it.
SHOPPING
Maison de lArtisan (Map pp418-19; x368 461; Rue
Minet el-Hosn, Ain al-Mreisse) Run by the Ministry
of Social Affairs, the house was set up to
support local artists, and at the same time
guarantee a certain standard. The range
of products includes rugs, lanterns, pots,
candles, slippers and musical instruments,
though few are outstandingly original or of
high quality.
Yahya Express Photofinishing Specialist (Map
p422; x735 305; Rue Emile Edd, Hamra) This shop
develops film (LL4000 to LL5000) and also
burns CDs of images from a memory card
(LL5000).
La CD-Thque (Map p422; x746 078; Rue Sourati,
Hamra) The newest branch of the best music
shop in Lebanon sells a good variety of
CDs (US$12 to US$17) including a selection by local artists.
Nargileh Seller (Map p422 ; cnr Rue Antoine Gemayel
& Rue Baalbek; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, 12-11pm Sun)
If youre looking for something beautiful

as well as functional, then head for this
little specialist shop. To purchase a complete nargileh set costs around LL20,000
to LL90,000.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

For information about transport between
Syria and Beirut, see p458.
Buses, minibuses and service taxis to
destinations north of Beirut leave from
Charles Helou bus station (Map pp41819)
and the Dawra (AKA Dora) transport hub.
To the south and southeast they leave from
the Cola transport hub. See p461 and the
relevant town and city sections for further
details.
For information on car hire, see p461.
GETTING AROUND
To/From the Airport

Beirut international airport lies approximately 5km south of Beirut. The red-andwhite LCC bus 1 will take you from the
airport roundabout (1km from the terminal)
to Rue Sadat (off Rue Bliss at western end)
in Hamra; bus 5 will take you to Charles
Helou bus station. The blue-and-white
OCFTC buses 7 and 10 also stop at the airport roundabout en route to the city centre;
bus 10 goes to Charles Helou bus station
and bus 7 goes to Raouch, from where you
can take bus 9 to Hamra. Fares are LL500.
The buses operate between 5.30am and 6pm
daily and the maximum wait is generally
about 10 minutes.
The yellow airport taxis are notoriously
expensive, often charging US$25 for the trip
into town. Its possible to bargain this down
to as little as US$10, but only if the supply
of taxis greatly outstrips demand. A cheaper
option is to walk 1km to the highway and
hail a service taxi into town for LL2000.
From Beirut to the airport, the usual fare is
LL10,000 (though they may ask twice this).
Car & Motorcycle

To park, head for the larger supermarkets,
shopping malls, restaurants and business
centres. Many have underground or valet
parking (around LL1500 to LL2000). Street
parking is also possible if you can find a spot,
but note that if you park in a no-parking
zone (signposted), you may be towed away.
Buses
Beirut is well serviced by its network of
buses. They operate on a hail-and-ride
system: just wave at the driver and the bus
will stop. There are no timetables, but buses
come frequently in the day, and services
stop early in the evening.
The bus routes most useful to travellers
are listed below. A trip will almost always
cost LL500.
LCC BUSES
No 1 HamraKhald Rue Sadat (Hamra), Rue Emile

Edd, Hotel Bristol, Rue Verdun, Cola roundabout, Airport
roundabout, Kafaat, Khald.
No 2 HamraAntelias Rue Sadat (Hamra), Rue Emile
Edd, Radio Lebanon, Sassine Sq, Dawra, Antelias.
No 3 Ain al-MreisseDawra Ain al-Mreisse, Club
Militaire Central, Raouche, Verdun, Museum, Dawra.
No 4 WardiehSfeir Radio Lebanon, Riad el-Solh Sq,

Place des Martyrs, Fouad Chehab, Yessoueieye, Sfeir.
No 5 Charles HelouHay as-Saloum Place des
Martyrs, Fouad Chehab, Yessoueiye, Airport roundabout,
Hay as-Saloum.
No 6 DawraByblos Antelias, Jounieh, Jbail (Byblos).
No 7 MuseumBaabda Museum, Beit Mary,
Broummana, Baabda.
No 13 Charles HelouCola Place des Martyrs, Riad
el-Solh Sq, Cola roundabout.
OCFTC BUSES
No 1 Club Militaire CentralKhald Club Militaire

Centrale, Unesco, Summerland, Khald.
No 4 DawraJounieh Dawra, Dbay, Kaslik, Jounieh
No 5 Ministry of InformationSrail Jdeideh Ministry of Information, Sodeco, Bourj Hammoud, Srail Jdeideh.
No 7 Club Militaire CentralAirport Club Militaire
Central, Summerland, Bourj Brajn, Airport.
No 8 Ain al-MreisseSrail Jdeideh Ain al-Mreisse,
Charles Helou, Dawra, Srail Jdeideh.
No 9 Club Militaire CentralSrail Jdeideh

Club Militaire Central, Rue Bliss, Rue Adbel Aziz, Rue
Clemenceau, Rue Weygand, Tabaris Sq, Sassine Sq, Hayek
roundabout, Srail Jdeideh.
No 10 Charles HelouAirport Charles Helou, Shatila,
Airport roundabout.
No 15 Ain al-MreisseNahr al-Mott Ain al-Mreisse,
Raouch, Museum, Nahr al-Mott.
No 16 Charles HelouCola Charles Helou, Downtown,
Cola.
No 23 Club Militaire CentralDawra Club Militaire
Central, Ain al-Mreisse, Charles Helou, Dawra.
No 24 MuseumHamra Museum, Barbir, Hamra.
Taxi & Service Taxi

Private taxi companies usually have meters
and can quote you an approximate fare on
the phone. Within Beirut, taxis charge anywhere from LL2000 to LL10,000, depending
on your destination.
Service taxis cover the major routes in
Beirut. The fare is LL1000 on established
routes within the city and LL2000 to outlying suburbs.
AROUND BEIRUT
BEIT MARY & BROUMMANA
&
x04
Set in pine forests some 800m above and

17km east of Beirut, Beit Mary offers panoramic views over the capital. The town
A R O U N D B E I R U T B e i t M a r y & B r o u m m a n a 431
dates back to Phoenician times and is

home to Roman and Byzantine ruins, including some fine floor mosaics in a Byzantine church dating from the 5th century.
They lie scattered in the enclosure off the
road. Nearby and also worth a visit is the
17th-century Maronite monastery of Deir
al-Qalaa, built on top of the hill with the
remains of a Roman temple; three very
large columns can be viewed around the
back.
The smart Al-Bustan Hotel (x870 400; Beit Mary
www.albustanhotel.com; s/d US$210/230, ste US$250-550
plus 26% tax; sap) hosts an annual music
and arts festival (p456) from mid-February

to mid-March (dates vary).
About 4km northeast of Beit Mary is
Broummana, a bustling town full of hotels, eateries, cafs, shops and nightclubs.
In summer its extremely popular with Beirutis escaping the heat of the city and has
a carnival-like atmosphere, particularly on
weekends.
Near Broumanna there are two exceptionally good restaurants worth a visit in
themselves.
Restaurant Mounir (x873 900; Main St; mezze
LL5000, grills LL8000; hnoon-midnight; a) serves
food on a pleasant terrace with spectacular views over Beirut and the Mediterranean. Book in advance and request a table
with a view. To get here from Broumanna,
make your way towards Beit Mary, turn
right into the downhill street and follow
the Mounir sign to the bottom of the
street.
Though its mountain views dont quite
match Restaurant Mounirs sea views, Kasr
Fakhredine (x960 407; mezze average LL4000-5000;
grills LL9000-10,000; h 10am-midnight; a ) outdoes Mounir on the food front. Believed
by some to serve the best classic Lebanese
food in the country (some of which comes
from its own fruit and vegetable garden),
its the place to splurge in Lebanon, though
prices are very reasonable for the quality.
Theres also a good wine list. Ask for a
table for the window. The large and attractive terrace is open from mid-May to
the beginning of October. The restaurant
lies off the main road, around 50m beyond
the centre of Broumanna if coming from
Beirut.
Service taxis from the National Museum
or Dawra usually charge LL2000 to either
LEBANON
LEBANON
430 B E I R U T S h o p p i n g
Beit Mary or Broummana. The LCC bus 7

(LL500, 40 minutes) departs from just east
of the museum.
JEITA GROTTO
x09
For many the Jeita grotto (x220 841; www.jeita

grotto.com; adult/child 4-11 LL18,150/10,175, parking
LL2200; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun JulAug, 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun May-Jun &
Sep-Oct, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-April, closed for 4 weeks
late Jan-early Feb) is one of the highlights of
Lebanon. Even for those spoiled by other

cave experiences, this one is impressive. Its
well worth a visit.
The award-winning development is well
designed, well managed and well looked
after. A cable car transports visitors up to
the caves where they can wander the cathedral-like Upper Cavern, before watching an informative 20-minute film (9.30am,
1.30pm and 5.30pm in English, 11.30am
and 3.30pm in French) and finally enjoying
a brief boat ride through the Lower Cavern.
A visit (including the film) takes around
1 hours.
Theres a restaurant (set combo LL6500; h9am5pm/7pm winter/summer) that serves reasonably priced mains (LL12,000) and snacks
(pizzas and burgers from LL6500), with
a shaded terrace overlooking the river. A
snack bar serves sandwiches for LL2000
to LL4000.
Note that for one to three months in winter the Lower Cavern may be closed due
to high water levels. Arrive early to avoid
the crowds; its the most visited attraction
in Lebanon.
Jeita lies 18km northeast of Beirut. To
get there, catch a minibus (LL1000) or LCC
6/OCFTC bus 4 (LL500) from Dawra and
ask the driver to drop you at the Jeita turnoff on the BeirutJounieh Hwy, where taxis
congregate. Negotiate a return price with
the driver (who will wait) as taxis from
the grotto back to the highway/Dawra are
exorbitant (US$10/20). A taxi from Beirut
costs LL25,000, a return trip from Jeita (including a 1 hour wait) will cost US$20
to US$25.
JOUNIEH
x09 / pop 96,315
Once a sleepy fishing village, Jounieh, 21km

north of Beirut, is now a high-rise strip
mall hemmed in by the sea on one side

and the mountains on the other. Famous
as the home of noisy nightclubs and glitzy
shops, on summer weekends and nights,
half of Beiruts population seems to decamp
here and the atmosphere, though crazy, is
great fun.
Orientation & Information

The town is roughly divided into three
parts: Maameltein, home to most of the
nightclubs, the famous casino and some
of Lebanons best restaurants; Centre Ville
with its hotels, supermarket and banks; and
Kaslik, an upmarket area full of boutiques
fleecing the fashionable.
Theres no Internet caf in Maameltein, only in Kaslik. Rodolfo (x636 177; Rue
Maameltein, Kaslik; coffee LL2500; pizza LL8000-14,000;

h 10am-4am; a ), the new Italian caf-
restaurant, has free Internet access if you

buy something. No banks in Jounieh
change travellers cheques, though they do
have ATMs.
the hill), its well worth the trek. Homely

and comfy, the hotel also represents great
value for money.
MIDRANGE
La Medina (x930 875; www.lamedinahotel.com; Rue

Maameltein; s/d with bathroom, TV, minibar & breakfast
US$60/92; as) Rooms are on the small
(and kitsch) side but are reasonably comfortable. Ask for a room with a balcony
(which are larger); some such as Nos 123
to 125 overlook the pool and the sea. The
hotel has two little private sandy beaches,
a pool open in the summer (nonguests
US$8/5 for adults/children), a restaurant
and free Internet access.
Holiday Suites (x 933 907; www.holidaysuites
.com; Rue Mina; s/d/ste with bathroom from US$65/75/95
plus 19% tax; s) Rooms are comfortable and
most have lovely balconies with direct sea

views. It also has a restaurant and facilities for jet-skiing (US$40 to US$60 per
hour).
TOP END
Activities
TELEFERIQUE
A teleferique (cable car; x 914 324; adult/child
return LL7500/3500; h 10am-7pm Tue-Sun autumn

& winter, 10am-10pm daily summer) runs from
Maameltein up to the mountaintop Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon. The views

are spectacular.
To get there, walk from Centre Ville to
the clock-tower roundabout; the teleferique
is about 10 minutes further on. It closes in
bad weather. Note that operational times
change marginally from week to week; ring
ahead if necessary. Summer is classed as 24
June to 21 October.
WATER SPORTS
Restaurant al-Bihar (x930 862; Rue Maameltein;

h8am-3am), next to restaurant Makhlouf, offers jet skis (US$80 per hour), water-skiing
(US$15 per 15 minutes) and parapenting
(US$30 per ride).
Sleeping
BUDGET
Les Jardins du Liban (x224 123; www.jardinsdu

liban.com; Rue Maameltein; s/d with bathroom & TV
US$35/40; ap) Though it lies 150m from
the main JouniehBeirut road in central

Jounieh (follow the lane that leads down
Four Stars Hotel (x855 601; www.thefourstarshotel

lebanon.com; Rue Maameltein; s/d/ste with bathroom &
breakfast from US$110/154/242; as) This new
hotel has three restaurants, a private marina, pool and, soon, diving and watersports facilities. Rooms are comfortable and
well furnished; those with direct sea views
are more expensive. Nonguests can use
the pool (open mid-May to mid-September) for US$15/7 per adult/child at weekends and US$10/5 on weekdays. Towels/
deckchairs are US$2/7.
Eating
Chez Sami (x910 520; Rue Maameltein; 500g fish
LL24,000-37,000, meals excl drinks US$30; h noonmidnight) Considered one of the best seafood
restaurants in Lebanon, its simple but

stylish and offers great seaside views and
a lovely terrace (open in summer). Theres
no fish menu, you just pick what you fancy
directly from the days catch as you come
in. A plate of fresh fried calamari/crab costs
LL12,000/17,000.
Manuella Restaurant (x832 480; Rue Maamel-
tein; mezze LL3000-7300, seafood LL44,000-55,000, grills

LL9000; hnoon-3am) Though the restaurants
rather kitsch (head for the conservatorycum-terrace at the back), the food makes
up for the dcor.
A R O U N D B E I R U T J o u n i e h 433
Makhlouf (x645 192; Rue Maameltein; shwarma

LL3500, mains LL11,000, large fresh juice from LL3000, all
plus 10% tax; h24hr) A branch of the popular
Lebanese chain, its always packed with locals and has a lovely shaded outdoor terrace
right above the sea. Food is simple but fresh
and tasty.
For sushi, try Sushi Bento (x919 193; Rue
Maameltein; sushi LL1500-2750, set menus LL16,000-28,000,
noodle dishes from LL5000; h11am-11pm; a).
A good place to prepare for a beach picnic is Fahed Supermarket (x832 705; h8.30am8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun), in downtown
Jounieh.
For sweets, you cant go wrong with Ptisserie Rafaat Hallab (x635 531; Rue Maameltein;
cakes & ice cream LL1000-1500; h7am-midnight midMaySep), which sells all the usual deliciously
sticky pastries and ice cream.
Entertainment
Jounieh is famous for its nightlife. Your
best bet is to walk down Rue Maameltein
and choose the bars and nightclubs with
the biggest crowds around their entrances.
Beware the super nightclubs with tacky
dance shows and female escorts.
Casino du Liban (x 855 888; www.cdl.com
.lb; Rue Maameltein; h slot-machine area noon-5am,

gaming rooms 4pm-5am, restaurants 8pm-4am, show 1011pm Tue-Sat) The most famous nightspot in
Jounieh is less glamorous than you might

imagine: for the most part it consists of
lots of gaming machines and middle-aged
couples trying their luck. Guests must be
over 21 and wear smart casual gear (no
jeans or sports shoes); a suit and tie are
required if you want to play the roulette
wheels.
Getting There & Away

The OCFTC bus 4 runs from Dawra to
Centre Ville, stopping at Kaslik on the
way. Also leaving from Dawra is the LCC
bus 6 to Byblos, which stops at Maameltein en route. Both services charge LL750
and take approximately 30 to 40 minutes.
The trip from Jounieh to Byblos on bus 6
costs LL750 to LL1000. Minibuses to/from
Dawra charge LL1000, service taxis LL2000
and private taxis LL10,000 to LL15,000.
Taxis to/from Jounieh to Hamra cost
LL15,000 during the day and LL20,000 at
night. A taxi to Byblos will cost LL10,000
and a ser vice taxi LL2000.
LEBANON
LEBANON
432 A R O U N D B E I R U T J e i t a G r o t t o
Excavations have shown that Byblos (biblical name Gebal) was probably inhabited
as early as 7000 years ago. In the 3rd millennium BC it became the most important
trading port on the eastern Mediterranean
under the Phoenicians. In exchange for
gold, alabaster, papyrus rolls and linen, it
sent cedar wood and olive oil to Egypt.
The city was renamed Byblos by the
Greeks, who ruled from 333 BC. The city
was named after the Greek word bublos,
meaning papyrus, which was shipped from
Egypt to Greece via Byblos port.
The Romans under Pompey took over Byblos in 64 BC, constructing temples, baths,
colonnaded streets and public buildings. In
AD 1104 the city fell to the Crusaders, who
built the castle and moat with stone and columns taken from the Roman temples.
Subsequent centuries under Ottoman
and Mamluk rule saw Byblos international
reputation as a trading port wane, as Beiruts waxed. It soon settled into life as the
small-time fishing town it is today.
Orientation
The old town stretches from just outside the
perimeter of the ruins to the old port and
fortified tower. A hotel and restaurants are
clustered around the port; the souq is situated just outside the entrance to the ruins.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
CD Master (x540 032; off Rue Jbail; per hr L2000;
h9am-1am Mon-Sat, 2pm-1am Sun) Directly behind the

Standard Chartered Bank on Rue Jbail.
MONEY
Lebanese Inter-Market Company Exchange (x541

623; Rue Jbail; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) About 100m
Post office (x540 003; Rahban St; h7.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Look for the Coral Petrol Station on

Rue Jbail; it lies around 30m east of the station on a side
street. Walk up the hill and its around 20m on your right,
on the 2nd floor.
To Hotel Ahiram
ala (200m); Dar l'Azrak
m
(1.7km); Tripoli
(44km)
Medieval
33
Ru
29
ed
30
13
10am-1pm Sun occasionally) Near the souvenir shops just

north of the entrance to the archaeological site. Provides
free brochures and information on Byblos.
Rue Jbail
23
Port
Old
Port
Ramparts
27
38
Souq Area
39
Entrance to
Archaeological
Site
18
19
20
RUINS
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Amorite Quarry........................... 6 C3
Church of St John the Baptist....... 7 C2
City Ramparts.............................. 8 C2
Crusader Castle............................9 C2
Early Bronze Age Building
Foundations...........................10 C3
Early Bronze Age Residence....... 11 C3
Enclosures & Houses from Chalcolithic
Period.................................... 12 C3
Fortified Tower...........................13 B2
King's Well.................................14 C3
Neolithic & Chalcolithic Huts......15 C3
Obelisk Temple..........................16 D3
Ottoman-era House...................17 C3
Persian Castle............................ 18 D2
Remains of City Gate................. 19 D3
Roman Colonnade..................... 20 C3
Roman Theatre.......................... 21 C3
Royal Tombs..............................22 C3
Statue........................................ 23 C1
Temple of Baalat Gebal..............24 C3
Temple of Resheph (L-Shaped
Temple)................................. 25 C3
Wax Museum............................ 26 C2
To Post Office (50m);

3
Coastal Highway/Buses
Standard
to Beirut (500m);
Chartered
Beirut (42km)
Bank (ATM)
32
37 2
1
Jba
35
40
il
26
OLD TOWN
INFORMATION
Banque Libanaise Pour Le Commerce
(ATM)......................................1 D1
Byblos Bank..................................2 D1
CD Master................................... 3 D1
Lebanese Inter-Market Company
Exchange..................................4 C1
Tourist Office...............................5 C2
34
Rue al
-Mina
Rampa
rts
Souq
Area 28
Tourist office (x540 325; h9am- 5pm Mon-Sat,
This ancient archaeological site (x540 001; adult/

student & child LL6000/1500; h8am-sunset) is entered
through the restored 12th-century Crusader
castle that dominates the sturdy 25m-thick
city ramparts (which date from the 3rd and
2nd millennia BC). There are some glorious
views of Byblos from the castle ramparts
and from this vantage point youre also
able to get a very clear idea of the layout
of the ancient city. Due east of the castle
are the remains of the older Persian castle.
From the Crusader castle, turn left past the
remains of the city gate and follow the path
until you reach the Amorite L-shaped Temple
of Resheph dating from the third millennium
BC. From here, move on to check out the
intriguing Obelisk Temple from the early 2nd
millennium BC, where offerings of human
figures encrusted in gold leaf were discovered (now the famous Phoenician figurines
in the National Museum).
Following the path southwest, go past the
Kings Well, a spring that supplied the city
with water until the end of the Hellenistic
era, to some of the earliest remains on the
site, the early Bronze Age residence, and building foundations, as well as on the left, the enclosures and houses from the chalcolithic period
(4th millennium BC) and the Neolithic and
chalcolithic huts (4th and 5th millennia BC).
Ch
er
36
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
0.1 miles
31
TOURIST INFORMATION
Sights
Medieval
POST
100 m
To Camping
Amchit Les
Colombes (3km)
History
150; Rue Jbail) Can change US dollars or euros.

Byblos Bank (x542 198; Rue Jbail)
Ru
Ru
With its ancient port (now a pretty fishing

harbour), Roman site, Crusader castle and
restored souq, travellers inevitably fall for
Byblos. Lying 42km from Beirut, its a great
place to visit overnight or on a day trip.
Theres an annual arts festival in Byblos
(see p456).
Pebble
Beach
hn
x09 / pop 20,784
0
0
BYBLOS (JBAIL)
St Jo
BYBLOS (JBAIL)
north of Hawaii Cocktail, Juice & Glace on

Rue Jbail. Changes travellers cheques and
all major currencies (US$5 commission per
transaction).
The following banks have ATMs (but
none change travellers cheques):
Banque Libanaise pour le Commerce (BLC; x540
N O R T H O F B E I R U T B y b l o s ( J b a i l ) 435
Byblos (Jbail)
Rue
NORTH OF BEIRUT
22
21
24
25
16
14
17
11
15
12
10
SLEEPING
Byblos Sur Mer...........................27 A1
Motel/Restaurant Abi-Chmou....28 C2
EATING
Al-Nakhil Cafe.........................(see 27)
Bab el-Mina................................29 B1
30
Byblos Fishing Club..................... B1
31
Cookery...................................... B1
Dar Tois..................................... 32 D1
El Molino....................................33 B1
Hawaii Cocktail, Juice & Glace....34 C1
Kaddoum Center........................35 D1
Throughout this area, large burial jars were

found here containing bodies in the foetal
position. Past the better-preserved Ottomanera house and the site of the adjacent Amorite
quarry is the oldest temple at Byblos, the
Temple of Baalat Gebal (the Mistress of Byblos) dating from 2800 BC. This was the largest and most important temple constructed
at Byblos and was rebuilt a number of times
in the two millennia that it survived.
During the Roman period the temple was
replaced by a Roman structure and there are
the remains of a Roman colonnade leading to
it. To the northwest of the temple towards
the sea is the Roman theatre, which has been
restored and relocated near the cliff edge,
with great views across the sea. Behind this
La Voile d'Or...........................(see 27)

L'Oursin.....................................36 A1
Restaurant Rock.........................37 D1
Rif Grill...................................... 38 D2
DRINKING
Lighthouse...............................(see 29)
SHOPPING
Mmoire du Temps....................39 C2
TRANSPORT
Service Taxi & Taxi Stand...........40 D1
are nine royal tombs, which were cut in vertical shafts deep into the rock in the 2nd millennium BC; some of the sarcophagi found
are now housed in the National Museum,
including that of King Ahiram, whose sarcophagus has one of the earliest Phoenician
alphabet inscriptions in the world.
A one- to two-hour guided tour of the
sites (guides speak English, French, Italian,
Spanish and German) costs LL20,000 for
a group.
CHURCH OF ST JOHN THE BAPTIST
(EGLISE ST JEAN MARC)
Diagonally facing the overpriced and underwhelming Wax Museum (x540 463; adult/
child under 13 LL6000/4000; h9am-5/6pm) is the
LEBANON
LEBANON
434 N O R T H O F B E I R U T B y b l o s ( J b a i l )
Church of St John the Baptist. The Crusaders began construction of this Romanesque
cathedral in AD 1115. Its an interesting mix
of Arab and Italian designs. The remains of
Byzantine mosaics lie scattered all around.
a quiet spot bungalows and chalets are

rented by the hour! Its a 25-minute walk
from Byblos; a service taxi costs LL1000.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Sleeping
Byblos Sur Mer (x548 000; www.byblossurmer.com.lb;
Rue du Port; s/d with bathroom, TV & balcony US$75/88, ste

US$119-136; as) The hotel has a great posi-
tion and comfortable rooms with lovely sea

views and a seafront swimming pool (nonguests LL8000/6000 per adult/child), open
mid-May to the end of September).
Hotel Ahiram (x540 440; ahiram@inco.com.lb; s/d
with bathroom, minibar & breakfast plus 10% tax US$40/60;

a) As rooms vary, check out several. The
best have balconies with direct views over

the seafront (such as room No 305) and
are good value. It also has a restaurant, a
nightclub, a terrace and direct access to the
sea via steps. The hotel lies just off the main
coastal road, 200m north of town.
Motel/Restaurant Abi-Chmou (x/fax 540 484;
Nassib Eid Bldg) Situated diagonally opposite
the Crusader castle, this motel is really one
big apartment (US$200 with breakfast)
with three bedrooms (six beds) that run
off a large communal area. It also has a
kitchen, another salon, two bathrooms and
a dining room. If the apartment isnt taken,
you may be able to rent a room (US$50/40
with/without breakfast). The triple and
twin rooms have views over the ruins and
the double room has a private shower. For
US$15 to US$20 the owner can set up a bed
in the dining room. The restaurant serves a
set menu of mezze (LL2500 to LL5000) and
main courses (LL7000 to LL18,000).
Camping Amchit Les Colombes (x622 401; Am-
chit; camp site US$3, 1-/2-person bungalow without air-con

US$20, 3-/4-person chalet with/without air-con US$30; a)
Lebanons only camping ground is in Amchit, 3km north of Byblos. Set on a promontory overlooking the sea, its a pleasant spot
with good views and amenities, including
hot showers, kitchen with gas burners, and
electrical points for caravans (220V). The
fully furnished chalets (with kitchen with
gas cooker and fridge; same price with or
without air-con) and bungalows (tiny and
basic A-frame huts with two single beds and
a Portaloo-type shower and toilet) are not
well maintained, however. Note that this
is really a place for Byblos young to find
Bab el-Mina (x540 475; Old Port; set menu with fish
& drinks for 2 people US$30 plus 10% tax, beer LL3500;
h11am-midnight; a) Boasting a lovely loca-
tion overlooking the port, the restaurant

specialises in fish and traditional Lebanese
mezze, but at competitive prices. The Fishermans Platter (the set menu) is excellent.
Byblos Fishing Club (Peps; x540 213; Old Port;
set menus LL26,400-29,400, with wine LL31,350; h11ammidnight) Next door to Bab el-Mina, the Fish-
ing Club is best known for its charismatic

Mexican owner, Pep. Over the decades
hes dandled many a film star on his knee.
Pep now in his 90s still occupies a
corner. Though the foods not outstanding, its outdoor terrace and eccentric boat
bar merit a visit. Next door, the little museum (admission free; open 11am to 5pm)
contains Phoenician artefacts recovered by
Pep himself, as well as some South and
Central American crafts.
Dar lAzrak (x 737 379; 3-course meal U$S25;
h11.30am-midnight/1am winter/summer; ap) A
large new establishment considered the
best restaurant in Byblos, this place also
has terraces with lovely seaside views. It
specialises in seafood. Stairs lead down to
a small pebbly beach (with changing room
and outdoor shower) and natural swimming pool. Its 1.7km outside town on the
seafront just off the main coastal road leading north (1.5km beyond Hotel Ahiram).
El Molino (x541 555; Rue du Port; meal with 2 mar-
garitas about LL35,000, beer LL4000; hnoon-midnight

Tue-Sun; a) This place offers Mexican food
and a fun atmosphere at night; at lunchtime

it can be quiet. Some tables have sea views.
Rif Grill (x545 822; off Rue Jbail; burgers LL25003500, platters LL12,000; h11.30am-1.30am; a) Modern, quite stylish and in, Rif Grill serves up
reasonable Western food for its 20- and 30something clientele. Burgers, pizzas (LL6000
to LL8000) and salads (around LL4000) are
all served.
Cookery (x 544 500; Rue al-Mina; h 7.30ammidnight) Popular locally, this recently renovated restaurant has a great selection of
delicious sandwiches (LL5000 to LL12,000),
pizzas (LL7500 to LL14,000) and mains
N O R T H O F B E I R U T T r i p o l i ( T r a b l o u s ) 437
(LL8000 to LL16,000). Its probably the best

choice for veggies.
LOursin (fish plate with drinks US$30-40; hnoonmidnight Apr-Oct) Situated on a jetty on the
seafront. Reservations are essential for Saturday night and Sunday midday.
The restaurants at the Byblos Sur Mer
hotel include La Voile dOr (mains LL17,000, pasta
LL3850-11,000; h6am-midnight; a), which has a
good reputation.
are not for sale) for US$5 upwards. Certificates of authenticity are supplied. The second Mmoire du Temps at the entry of the
souq near Motel/Restaurant Abi-Chmou is
a good bookshop that also sells some old
artefacts.
CAFS
Al-Nakhil Caf (hamburger, fries & Pepsi LL7500; h9ammidnight summer only) Set on the jetty and also
forming part of the Byblos Sur Mer hotel,
this place serves tasty fast food at palatable
prices with a pleasant seafront table and
parasol thrown into the bargain.
Dar Tois (x330 352; Rue Jbail; cakes & ice cream
LL1500-2500; h6am-10pm) A bright and cheerful
patisserie thats a good place for breakfast.
QUICK EATS
There are several good, cheap fast-food

places on and around Rue Jbail.
Restaurant Rock (near Byblos Bank, Rue Jbail; felafel & kebabs LL1500-3250, mezze LL3000, beer LL1000;
h8am-1am) Probably the top spot for fast
food, this is clean, popular and reasonably

priced. It claims to serve the best felafel and
kebabs in town.
Kaddoum Center (Rue Jbail; h8am-2am; a)
Next door to Restaurant Rock and more upmarket, it has fruit juices (LL1500 to LL4500)
and milkshakes (LL4500) as well as burgers
and sandwiches (LL4000 to LL11,000).
Hawaii Cocktail, Juice & Glace (x541 500; Rue Jbail;
snacks 2000-5500; h8am-3am; a) Also good for
fruit juices, ice cream and Western snacks
such as nachos and chicken wings, it has a
large, pleasant terrace overlooking Rue Jbail.
Drinking
Lighthouse (x03-455 718; Port; h6pm-midnight
Tue-Sun) Opening at the time of research, this
promises to become a popular pub-bar (also
serving food) that transforms itself into a
nightclub with DJ after 10pm. Its beside the
steps leading up to Bab el-Mina restaurant.
Shopping
Mmoire du Temps (x547 083; www.memoryoftime
.com; souq; h9am-7.30pm) Styling itself as a
museum-cum-shop, Mmoire has a stunning collection of fossils (some of which

The service-taxi stand in Byblos is near
the Banque Libanaise pour le Commerce.
A service taxi to/from Beirut (the hub in
Beirut is Dawra) costs LL3000 (about eight
services between 7am and 6pm). The LCC
bus 6 (LL500, around one hour) and minibuses (LL1000) also leave from Dawra and
travel regularly along the coast road between Beirut and Byblos, stopping on Rue
Jbail. Its a scenic and very pleasant trip.
TRIPOLI ( TRABLOUS)
x06 / pop 229,398
Tripoli, 85km north of Beirut, is Lebanons

second largest city and is the main port
and trading centre for northern Lebanon.
Famous for its medieval Mamluk architecture, including a large souq area considered
the best in Lebanon, its a great point from
which to explore the northern part of the
country. Tripoli is also famous as the sweets
capital of Lebanon. The main speciality is
haliwat al-jibn, a sweet made from cheese
and served with syrup.
History
Like other Phoenician cities along the eastern Mediterranean coast, Tripolis early
expansion reflected its success as a trading
post. Its name, taken from the Greek word
tripolis (three cities), derives from the 8thcentury arrival of traders from the three
ports of Sidon, Tyre and Arwad (off Tartus
in Syria).
Conquered in turn by the Seleucids, Romans, Umayyads, Byzantines and Fatimids,
it was invaded by the Crusaders in 1102 and
ruled by them for 180 years. In 1289 the
Mamluk sultan Qalaun took control and
embarked upon an ambitious building programme; many of the mosques, souqs, madrassas and khans in the old city date from
both the Crusader and Sultan Qalauns eras.
The Turkish Ottomans took over the city in
1516 and ruled quite peacefully until 1920,
when it became part of the French mandate
of Greater Lebanon.
LEBANON
LEBANON
436 N O R T H O F B E I R U T B y b l o s ( J b a i l )
200 m
0.1 miles
There are Internet cafs scattered around

the new part of town.
Drop Zone (x03-151 719; City Complex, Rue Riad
7
35
i
ram
Ka
id
ch
Ra
e
Ru
uA
l i
ine
dd
14
ak
Ri
da
r
A
Ka
ad
al-R
hid
h
at
a
ik
ifai
10
Ahm
id
Ru
eR
ch
ac
Ra
Bab al-Ramel
Cemetery
INFORMATION
BBAC (ATM)................................ 1 A1
Tourist Office............................... 2 A2
Walid M el-Masri Co Exchange.... 3 B1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Al-Burtasiya Mosque & Madrassa.. 4 D2
Al-Muallaq Mosque..................... 5 C3
Bader Hassoun.........................(see 12)
Citadel of Raymond de
Saint-Gilles.............................. 6 D3
Clock Tower................................. 7 B1
Great Mosque.............................. 8 C2
Hammam al-Abd......................... 9 C2
Hammam al-Jadid...................... 10 C3
D2
C2
C2
C2
D2
C2
D1
D2
C2
A4
SLEEPING
Hotel al-Tel................................21 C1
Hotel Koura................................22 B2
Pension Haddad.........................23 B2
There are two main parts to Tripoli: the city

proper, which includes modern Tripoli and
the old city; and Al-Mina, the port area,
a promontory 3km to its west. The geographical centre of town is Saahat et-Tall
(pronounced at-tahl), a large square by
the clock tower where youll find the service
h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) US-dollar travellers

cheques can be changed here for US$2 per cheque (up to a
maximum of US$100).
POST
Main post office (Rue Fouad Chehab; h8am-5pm

Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Around 400m south of Abdel
Hamid Karami Sq.
Post office branch (Rue ibn Sina; h8am-5pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) In Al-Mina.
Tourist office (x433 590; www.lebanon-tourism.gov
Khan al-Khayyatin..................... 11
Khan as-Saboun.........................12
Madrassa al-Nouriyat.................13
Madrassa al-Qartawiyya............ 14
Sharkass.................................... 15
Souq al-Attarin.......................... 16
Souq al-Haraj.............................17
Souq an-Nahhassin.................... 18
Souq al-Sayyaghin......................19
Taynal Mosque.......................... 20
Orientation
Most of the large banks have ATMs, such as

the BBAC on Rue Tall.
Walid M el-Masri Co Exchange (x430 115; Rue Tall;
TOURIST INFORMATION
20
MONEY
eE
Ru
ei
kh
36
19
rF
hid
St
mi
fa
eC
12
dat
16
ac
ssi
ini
Ru
av
ram
Ru
eC
he
ikh
igi
az
l-Y
eR
11
Ou
Ru
Na
ikh
usse
ed al-H
Ch
rim
St
St
h Mohamm
Ka
rabi
ogh
13
15
jie
Ar
jid M
Al-Nejmeh Rue
Emir Khalid Chhab
Sq
Ru
dE
- Ma
34
Rue C
heikh
Ru
Moham
med al
e
-Jisr
H
ur
riy
a
in
-K
Abd el
Koura Sq
18
Ab
Al
22
23
Rue Cheik
17
all
Na
ssi
fa
l-Y
az
igi
27
33
Saahat et-Tall
(Tell Sq)
al-Solh; per hr 10am-2pm LL1000, other times LL2000;

h8.30am-1am/2am; a)
Modka (x423 788; City Complex, off Rue Riad al-Solh;
per hr LL1000; h9am-midnight) Next to Drop Zone but
newer and cheaper and with a juice bar serving good fruit
juices (LL1000 to LL3000).
Rue T
26
he
28
To Palais Abdul Rahman

Hallab & Sons; Cin Plante;
Abou Nawas (500m); Drop
Zone; Modka; Machawi (600m);
Quality Inn (1.5km); Al-Mina;
'46; Silver Shore; Hotel
2 Hayake (3km) h Ismail al-Hafez
heik
eC
Ru
Abdel Hamid
Karami Sq
30
2
32
To Main Post Office

(200m); Beirut (85km)
21
37
Rue Tall 3
24
t
iS
ab
eh
Ch
elhir
ac
ir B
Am
hre
1 25
29
including tailors, jewellers, soap makers

and coppersmiths, continue to work as
they have done for centuries. The Souq alSayyaghin (the gold souq), Souq al-Attarin, the
medieval Souq al-Haraj and Souq an-Nahhassin
(the brass souq) are well worth a wander.
The Great Mosque, built on the site of a Crusader cathedral and incorporating some of
its features, has a magnificent entrance and
minaret. Opposite the mosques northern
entrance is the Madrassa al-Nouriyat, which has
distinctive black-and-white stonework and a
beautiful inlaid mihrab. This madrassa is still
in use today. Attached to the east side of the
Grand Mosque is the Madrassa al-Qartawiyya,
converted between 1316 and 1326 from the
former St Marys church. Its elegant blackand-white faade and honeycomb-patterned
half-dome above the portal are well worth
a look.
You have to look up to see the Al-Muallaq
Mosque, which is suspended over the street.
This simple 14th-century building is a fair
distance south of the Grand Mosque and
very close to the Hammam al-Jadid, the palatial ruin of an 11th-century bathhouse with
coloured-glass windows studded in the cupolas that cast shafts of light down into the
rooms. A neighbouring shop (h9am-5/7pm
winter/summer) holds the key.
The Khan as-Saboun (Soap Khan) is in the
centre of the medina, just off the gold souq.
Built in the 16th century, it was first used
as an army barracks, though its been functioning as a market for centuries. In the
18th century, when Tripolis soap industry
was world famous, the khan was at its centre. Today, its occupied by various shops
including Bader Hassoun (x03-438 369), which
sells soap.
To the west of the Khan as-Saboun is the
300-year-old Hammam al-Abd (h8am-11pm), the
citys only functioning bathhouse. Unfortunately, its only open to men the full treatment costs LL16,000. To find it, turn into the
passageway marked Sona-Massage.
One of the most beautiful buildings in the
old city is the Khan al-Khayyatin, formerly a
Crusader hospital and today a beautifully restored 14th-century tailors souq lined with
small workshops. To the northwest of the
khan is Khan al-Misriyyin, which is believed
to date from the 14th century when it was
used by Egyptian merchants. On the first
floor of the dilapidated khan, you can find
Rue
ab
heh
Public
Gardens
38
Fou
31
ad C
INTERNET ACCESS
Municipality
Building
(Baladiye)
ohammed Karameh
Rue M
Rue
LEBANON
0
0
TRIPOLI (TRABLOUS)
Information
EATING
Al-Dar Restaurant...................... 24
Al-Tabbal................................... 25
AR Radwan Al-Hallab et Fils.......26
Caf Fahim.................................27
Juice Stand.................................28
A1
A1
B1
B2
A2
TRANSPORT
Ahdab Minibuses....................... 29 A1
Connex Buses to Beirut.............. 30 A2
Kotob Travel Offices (Buses).......31 A1
Minibuses to Bcharr..................32 A2
Service Taxis to Syria..................33 B2
Service-Taxi Office (for Beirut)...(see 7)
Taxi Stand (For Bcharr).............34 B2
Taxis to Al-Mina.........................35 B1
Taxis within Tripoli..................... 36 D2
Transtour Office.........................37 B1
Tripoli Express Office..................38 A1
taxi and bus stands, as well as most of the

cheap hotels.
The old city sprawls east of Saahet etTall, while the modern centre is west of
the square, along Rue Fouad Chehab. In
Al-Mina youll find the Corniche, shops
and some of the citys best restaurants and
cafs.
.lb; Abdel Hamid Karami Sq; h8am-5/6pm winter/

summer Mon-Sat) Staff members are friendly and helpful
and speak English and French. English- and French-speaking
guides cost US$25/50 for three-hour/full-day tour for one to
three people (prices are negotiable).
Sights
If you want to enter the mosques, remember to wear appropriate clothing: legs and
arms must be covered and women must
also cover their hair. Most mosques have
kaftans (gowns) that you can borrow for
a small tip. In general, mosques are open
from about 10am to 11am/noon, from 1pm
to 4.30pm, from 5.15pm to 7pm and from
7.30pm to 9pm (closing for prayer). Leave
shoes inside the mosque (occasionally petty
thieves snatch those left outside), and watch
your valuables in the souqs.
THE OLD CITY
Dating from the Mamluk era (14th and

15th centuries), the Old City is a maze of
narrow alleys, colourful souqs, hammams,
khans, mosques and madrassas. Its a lively
and fascinating place where craftspeople,
LEBANON
438 N O R T H O F B E I R U T T r i p o l i ( T r a b l o u s )
Tripoli (Trablous)
LEBANON
Sharkass (Mahmoud al-Sharkass; x425 857; bar of soap

LL1000-3000, boxes of 3 LL4000, 1kg natural/perfumed soap
LL6000/8000; h10am-5/7pm winter/summer). Mak-
thin mattresses). The advantage here is the

location: ask for a room on the second floor
with a sea view. Rooms 7 and 8 have the
best views. Its next door to the post office,
150m from the mosque on a road running
parallel to the Corniche. The entrance is at
the back of the building.
Hotel al-Tel (x628 407; Rue Tall; s/d with fan
ing soap since 1803, the family produces

good-quality, authentic Tripoli soap; youre
welcome to look around. Note that the shop
is on the 1st floor (not the one with the same
name on the ground). Close to the souq
is the Al-Burtasiya Mosque & Madrassa, with its
particularly fine mihrab inside.
To the south of the souqs on the outskirts
of the old city, but well worth the walk, is
the restored Taynal Mosque. This dates from
1336 and has a magnificent inner portal.
LL15,000/30,000, d with fan & bathroom LL35,000, d with

air-con & bathroom LL45,000; a) Quite cosy and
with moderately clean rooms, this is an option if the Koura, Haddad or Hayke are full.
Six rooms have balconies. TV is available
on request.
CITADEL OF RAYMOND DE SAINT-GILLES
TOP END
Towering above Tripoli, this Crusader fortress
Quality Inn (x211 255; www.qualityinntripoli.com;
(adult/student & child over 10 LL8000/4000; h 8amsunset) was originally built during the period
from AD 1103 to AD 1104. It was burnt

down in AD 1297 and partly rebuilt the following century by a Mamluk emir.
The most impressive part of the citadel
is the imposing entrance, with its moat and
three gateways (one Ottoman, one Mamluk,
one Crusader). Guided tours are available
and prices depend on group size: generally
LL5000/15,000/20,000 for one person/small
group/large group.
Sleeping
Theres plenty of budget accommodation
in Tripoli but almost no midrange or topend options.
BUDGET
Hotel Koura (x/fax 425 451, 03-326 803; off Rue Tall;
dm/s US$7/15, d with bathroom & breakfast US$20, s/d with
bathroom, air-con & breakfast US$35/40; a) This is a
spotless small hotel with a central shared

lounge run by a charming brother and sister. Rooms are simple but quite well furnished, with decent bathrooms.
Pension Haddad (x 03-507 709; www.pension
haddad.8m.com; off Rue Tall; dm/s/d with fan US$7/10/15;

breakfast/dinner LL3000/6000, laundry per shirt/trousers
LL500/1000) A family-run place, its rooms are
reasonably clean and cosy and have character even if the paints peeling and there are
only two common bathrooms. Free tea is
offered and theres a warm welcome.
Hotel Hayke (x601 311; Rue ibn Sina; s/d/tr with
breakfast US$10/20/30) Located in Al-Mina, this
is a friendly, family-run hotel offering pretty
basic but fairly hygienic rooms (with rather
s/d/ste with bathroom, TV, minibar & breakfast plus 26%

tax LL120,000/150,000/225,000; as ) It offers
good facilities (three restaurants, two pools,

a Jacuzzi and sauna); however, rooms at
Quality Inn are comfortable but nothing
special. There are no balconies and rooms
look on to the exhibition space next door.
The pools (nonguests US$10) are open
from June to September. Credit cards accepted. The hotel lies beside a fairground
located between the old city and Al-Mina,
around 1.7km northwest of Abdel Hamid
Karami Sq.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Silver Shore (x601 384; the Corniche, Al-Mina; meals

around US$30 plus drinks; h8am-7pm; a) Considered the best seafood restaurant in northern
Lebanon, it serves only fish. Try the specialrecipe hot sauce dish.
Al-Dar Restaurant (x432 121; Rue Tall; mezze
LL2500-5500, mains LL7000-8500; h9am-7/9pm winter/
summer; a) This new restaurant in a 19th-
century Ottoman house is probably the best

place in town for simple but enjoyable and
inexpensive food. Upstairs theres a pleasant restaurant, and downstairs a takeaway
section (with a few tables) where the food
is even cheaper (shwarma/kebabs LL2000).
46 (x212 223; the Corniche, Al-Mina; mains LL16,500;
h10am-midnight Tue-Sun; a) With large windows overlooking the seafront and a nautically themed interior, this place is known
for its fish (LL18,000 to LL26,000) as well as
its pasta dishes (LL9,000 to 15,000). Theres
live piano or instrumental music every Saturday night. Credit cards are accepted.
Abou Nawas (x611 412; 1st fl Masri & Kabara Bldg,

Nadim al-Jisr St; 3-course meal with half-bottle of wine
US$20; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat; a) Lying diag-
LL5500, half price on Mon & Wed; hprogrammes 3pm,

5.30pm, 8pm, 10.30pm; a), which shows latest-
onally opposite the Cin Plante Complex,

this restaurant is an opulent Orientalist fantasy complete with murals, chandelier and
festoon curtains. The food is classic Lebanese and high quality but at reasonable
prices. To find it, look for the stylised red
logo outside, which resembles a Chinese
lantern. Credit cards are accepted.
Machawi (x433 344; Rue Riad al-Solh; shwarma
LL2000, mains LL5000; h11am-11pm; a) A clean
and quite stylish place furnished with its
own ovens, it serves simple but excellent
food at great prices.
CAFS
Palais Abdul Rahman Hallab & Sons (x444 445;

Rue Riad al-Solh; coffee from LL1250, juice LL2500, cakes/ice
cream from LL1500; h5am-midnight; a) Founded
in 1881, this is probably the best Hallab

patisserie in Lebanon and certainly the best
place to sample Tripolis famous sweets.
Everything is made on the premises, including the Hallab chocolate and ice cream,
and you can visit the vast kitchens and
the experimental laboratory. On the 2nd
floor theres a restaurant (with set menus
for LL6500 to LL12,000 that change daily).
Credit cards are accepted.
Caf Fahim (x444 516; Rue Tall; coffee/soft drink
LL1500, nargileh LL1000-3000; h6am-10pm) An atmospheric if rather male-orientated place,
with its vaulted interior and local men
smoking nargileh and playing backgammon. Its opposite the clock tower.
AR Radwan Al-Hallab et Fils (x444 433; Rue Tall;
plate of mixed pastries LL2500; h6am-11pm; a) Another good patisserie.
Theres also a juice stand on Rue Fouad
Chehab.
QUICK EATS
There are several fast-food places located

around Saahat et-Tall.
Al-Tabbal (Rue Tall; shwarma LL2000; h8am-1.30am;
a) Probably the best fast-food option, it
has a menu chalked up in English above the
till and clean tables to sit at.
Entertainment
Tripoli is not renowned for its nightlife, but
it does have a cinema complex, Cin Plante
(x 442 471; City Complex, Rue Riad al-Solh; tickets
release English-language movies, with Arabic subtitles.

TO/FROM BEIRUT
Three companies run coach services from

Beirut to Tripoli (as well as various individually owned microbuses). Connex (x611
232; www.connexliban.com) has 20 buses daily
(LL2000, 1 hours via Jounieh and Byblos, 7.30am to 8pm). Tripoli Express (x03327 625) has 17 smaller buses daily (LL2000,
1 hours, 7am to 8.30pm) via Jounieh
(LL2000, 20 minutes) and Byblos (LL2000,
50 minutes). Kotob (x444 986), which runs
10 older buses daily, is the cheapest option
and takes longer (LL1500, two hours, every
15 minutes from 5.30am to 6pm), stopping
to let passengers off and on at Jounieh
(LL1500, 30 minutes), Byblos (LL1500, one
hour) and Batroun (LL1500, 1 hours). All
three services leave from Zone C of Charles
Helou bus station in Beirut.
From Tripoli, Connex (x400 037) runs
buses every 10 to 20 minutes to Beirut
(LL2000, 1 hours, 5.30am to 6pm) and express services on luxury coaches (LL2500,
1 hours, every hour on the hour 7am to
4pm); Tripoli Express (x444 986) runs smaller
buses (LL2000, 1 hours, every 10 to 15
minutes from 5am to 6pm); and Kotob
(x444 986) service runs between 5am and
5.30pm (LL1000, every 15 minutes) and follows a similar route.
Ahdab (x437 799) runs minibuses from
Tripoli to Beirut every 15 minutes from
5am until 8pm (before/after 2pm LL1000/
1500, 1 to two hours).
Service taxis leave about every half hour
to Beirut (LL1000 between 5am and 4pm,
LL1500 between 4pm and 5pm, about 1
hours) travelling via Jounieh (LL1000 to
LL1500, 40 minutes) and leave from just
outside the clock tower. For Byblos (LL1000
to LL1500, 30 minutes) take the Beirut bus.
TO BCHARR, CEDARS & BAALBEK
Minibuses from Tripoli to Bcharr (LL2000,

1 hours, three to four buses daily between
9am and 5pm) leave from outside the
Marco Polo travel agency about 25m from
the tourist office on Abdel Hamid Karami
Sq. From Bcharr, they leave hourly from
LEBANON
440 N O R T H O F B E I R U T T r i p o l i ( T r a b l o u s )
6am until 2pm. For the Cedars, organise a

taxi at Bcharr, which costs LL4000.
A service taxi from Tripoli to Bcharr
costs LL4000 (from 6am to 5pm daily) and
one to the Cedars costs LL10,000; service
taxis leave from Al-Koura Sq.
When there is no snow or ice and the
mountain road is open, it is possible to take
a taxi from Bcharr to Baalbek (around
US$50, 1 hours).
For information on buses from Tripoli
to Syria, Turkey, Jordan and Saudi Arabia,
see p459.
Getting Around
Service taxis cost LL500 within the old and
new parts of Tripoli; LL1000 to outlying
parts of the city; and LL500 to LL1000 to
Al-Mina. Foreigners are often asked double;
try negotiating.
BCHARR
x06
The trip to Bcharr takes you through some

of the most beautiful scenery in Lebanon.
The road winds along the mountainous
slopes, continuously gaining in altitude and
offering spectacular views of the Qadisha
Valley. A Unesco World Heritage site, the
valley is home to several old monasteries
and hermits dwellings, and offers good
trekking. Villages of red-tile-roofed houses
perch atop hills or cling precariously to the
mountainsides; the Qadisha River, with its
source just below the Cedars, runs along
the valley bottom; and Lebanons highest
peak, Qornet as-Sawda (3090m), towers
overhead. Its a truly magnificent area.
Bcharr is the main town in the Qadisha
Valley. Famous as the birthplace of Khalil
Gibran, and the stronghold of the right-wing
Maronite Christian Phalange party, its a very
relaxing place to spend a couple of days.
buried in a 19th-century monastery built

into the rocky slopes of a hill overlooking
Bcharr. The museum (x671 137; adult/student
LL3000/2000; h 10am-6pm daily summer, 9am-5pm

Tue-Sun winter), which has been set up in this
monastery, houses a large collection of Gibrans paintings, drawings and gouaches,

and also some of his manuscripts. His coffin is in the monasterys former chapel,
which is cut into the rock. The museum is
really only for avid fans of Gibran but those
who are unfamiliar with the poet but want
to get to know his work will appreciate the
selection of books for sale.
CEDARS OF BCHARR
From Bcharr its about a 4km climb along

a tortuous road to the last remaining forest
of cedars (x672 562; suggested donation LL1500-5000;
h9am-6pm May-Oct) in Lebanon, here since
biblical times. Known locally as Arz arRab (Cedars of the Lord), they populate
the slopes of Jebel Makmel at an altitude
of more than 2000m. Once covering most
of Lebanons high summits, the forest has
been reduced over the centuries to little
more than a small wood. The forest is classified as a national monument; in summer,
you can walk through it on marked trails.
A taxi from outside the St Saba Church
in Bcharr costs LL10,000/20,000 one way/
return (including a one-hour wait). At the
time of research, there was also a regular
minibus service (leaving every hour from
7am to 7pm from outside the St Saba
Church) transporting soldiers back and
forth to the Cedars. You can hop on for
LL1000. The main entrance to the forest is
off the main road opposite the first group
of souvenir stalls. Theres another entrance
on the other side of the forest where theres
also the Restaurant al-Kalaa (x03-892 856).
SKIING

The town is dominated by the St Saba Church
in the main street. There are a few shops on
the main street, as well as the LIntime Internet
Caf (x03-732 091; per hr LL2000; h9am-midnight),
which is about 20m from the church.
Sights & Activities

GIBRAN MUSEUM
In keeping with his wishes, the famous poet

and artist Khalil Gibran (18831931) was
The skiing season commences around midDecember and ends in March or April, depending on the weather. There are ski-hire
shops (full equipment hire US$8) and accommodation in the village below the forest. The resort is slowly developing; three
new chair lifts have been built; by the end
of 2006 there will be a new gondola and a
large hotel, and a whole new skiing area is
due to open higher up the mountain at the
end of 2008.
Near the Cedars, Cedar of Lebanon Ski Resort

(x06-678 078; www.cedarsoflebanon.info, www.skileb
.com; Sat, Sun & holidays half-/full-day LL25,000/40,000, MonFri LL25,000, child any time LL25,000/18,000; h8.30am3pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat & Sun during ski season) is
open in winter for both downhill and crosscountry skiing.
S O U T H O F B E I R U T S i d o n ( S a i d a ) 443
The owners can propose guided walks

through the Qadisha Valley. If you have
time, do explore this beautiful valley.
Makhlouf Elie Restaurant (x672 585; Main St,
Bcharr; 2-course set menu with coffee & soft drink US$7,
sandwich LL2000-3000; h9am-midnight) The main
This small grotto (admission LL4000; hcaves 8am6pm summer, closed mid-Dec to mid-May) extends
around 500m into the mountain and has
some great limestone formations. Though
not as extraordinary as Jeita Grotto, its spectacular setting makes it well worth a visit.
The grotto is a 7km walk from Bcharr;
follow the signs to the LAiglon Hotel and
then take the footpath opposite. Its then
a 1.5km walk to the grotto. The caves (illuminated) take around 30 to 40 minutes
to visit. Occasionally after rain the caves
are closed due to dangerous water levels.
The small restaurant (hnoon-midnight or later)
opens in summer.
boon of this restaurant opposite the fire station is its outdoor terrace with great views
overlooking the valley. The food is standard
Lebanese fast food.
Restaurant River Roc (x671 169; Bchhar; mezze
LL2000, grills LL4500-7000; h10am-1am) Though
theres a large and lovely terrace commanding great views of the valley, the food
doesnt quite live up to the setting. It lies on
the main road to Tripoli about 2km uphill
from the centre.
Ptisserie Delices (x850 784; Bcharr; h9am8pm/10pm winter/summer) This family-run patisserie offers around a dozen delicious
and inexpensive homemade Lebanese and
Western-style cakes (LL1000 to LL2000) as
well as fruit juices and ice cream. It lies on the
main road 50m east of the village church.
Sleeping & Eating
Drinking
There are just two hotels in Bcharr. At

the Cedars of Bcharr, there are more options, of which we recommend Hotel St
Bernard.
Hotel St Bernard (x678 100; www.hotelstbernard
La Noche (x671 200; beer LL2000; h4pm-1am daily

mid-Junmid-Sep, Fri-Sun winter) The new and
.com; s/d/ste with bathroom & breakfast US$60/100/120)
Designed like a chalet with a cosy log fire in

the large lounge, it has comfortable rooms
(with balconies on the 1st floor) and theres
a good restaurant (mains LL12,000) that has
a terrace with views over the forest. The hotel
lies off the main road; follow the signs.
Palace Hotel (x671 005; fax 671 460; Bcharr; s with
The bus and service-taxi stop is outside

the St Saba Church in the centre of town.
Buses/service taxis leave daily from 6/7am
to 5pm every hour for Tripoli (LL3000/
5000, about one hour) and to Beirut via
Byblos every hour (LL5000/10,000, about
two hours) During the dry season (July to
November), you may find a taxi to Baalbek,
which costs about US$40.
QADISHA GROTTO
bathroom & TV US$20-30, d/tr with bathroom & TV US$40/48,

breakfast US$4.50) Located just below the main
road, about 100m west of St Saba Church,

the hotel offers very clean, tranquil and good
value rooms. Rooms on the 2nd floor have
balconies with views over the valley.
Hotel Chbat (x672 672; www.hotelchbat.com; Rue
Gibran, Bcharr; s/d/tr with bathroom, TV & breakfast

US$50/75/90, apt with salon for 1/2 people summer US$80/
105, winter US$90/120; p) More Swiss-looking
than Lebanese this chalet-style hotel has

comfortable rooms with balconies. Theres
also a pool (open from mid-May to midSeptember; LL5000 per day for nonguests),
a gymnasium, a restaurant (serving homemade food) and a large lounge and terrace.
only! pub lies at the bottom of the hill on

the road leading up to Hotel Chbat.
SOUTH OF BEIRUT
SIDON (SAIDA)
x07 / pop 163,554
Sidon is a small port city lying 45km south of

Beirut. With Beiruts ever-widening sprawl,
its becoming quite difficult to distinguish
the two. Sidon far precedes Beirut, however.
Dating back some 6000 years, it was once a
prominent and wealthy Phoenician city.
A succession of invaders passed through
Sidons portals, including Persians, Greeks,
LEBANON
LEBANON
442 N O R T H O F B E I R U T B c h a r r
Romans, Byzantines, Arabs (who gave it the

name Saida), Crusaders and Mamluks. With
its attractive Crusader Sea Castle and fine
mosques, khans and vaulted souqs, it makes
a great day trip from Beirut. Sidon is also
famous for its sweets and soap.

Saahat an-Nejmeh, a huge roundabout,
marks the centre of town. Youll also find
the bus and service-taxi stands here. On
Rue Riad as-Solh, which runs south off
Saahat an-Nejmeh, there are banks and
moneychangers. The old city, the harbour,
the Sea Castle and the one hotel are west of
Saahat an-Nejmeh and Rue Riad as-Solh.
Banque Audi (x720 411; Riad as-Solh; h8.30am-
2pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat)

About 300m south of Nejmeh Sq. Has an ATM and can also
change travellers cheques.
Bob Net (x03-865 706; Dalaa St; per hr LL1000;
h8.30am-2am) Around 200m from the Dalaa hospital,
its the best Internet caf in town (though connections
are slow).
Foundation Hariri (x727 344; h9am-4pm
Mon-Sat) Also inside the Khan al-Franja, this proactive
organisation gives excellent information on Sidon and Tyre,
as well as providing (free) guided tours of the khan (if staff
are not busy).
Post office (x722 813; Rue Riad as-Solh;
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Tourist office (x727 344; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Operates inside the Khan Franja.
Sights & Activities

Though Sidons beaches look pleasant, they
are not clean and are probably best avoided.
THE OLD CITY
Old Sidon lies behind the buildings fronting the harbour, just across from the wharf.
Its a fascinating labyrinth of vaulted souqs,
tiny alleyways and old buildings dating
back to the Middle Ages.
In the souqs youll find shops selling everything from electrical appliances to orange
water; youll also see craftspeople many
of whom live above their stalls at work.
You can also get good-quality fruit here at
bargain prices (LL500 for a kilogram of tangerines though you may be asked more).
Highlights include the Khan al-Franj (Inn of
the Foreigners; admission free), a graceful limestone
khan built by Fakhreddine (Fakhr ad-Din
al-Maan II) in the 17th century. Beauti-
fully restored, it consists of vaulted galleries

surrounding a large rectangular courtyard
with a central fountain. Just behind the
Khan al-Franj is the Bab as-Saray Mosque, the
oldest in Sidon, dating from 1201. Unfortunately it was closed to visitors at the time
of research. Another gem is the Palace Debban (Al-Moutran St, Souq; admission free; h9am-6pm
Sat-Thu) entered from the souq via a tall staircase marked with a sign. Built in 1721, this
former Ottoman aristocrats building has
intricate Mamluk decoration, including tile
work and cedar wood ceilings. There are
plans to open a Sidon historical museum
here in the future.
Further inside the old city is the Great
Mosque al-Omari (admission free), said to be one of
the finest examples of Islamic religious architecture of the 13th century. It was constructed
around a church built by the Crusaders. Severely damaged by the Israeli bombings of
1982, it underwent a long restoration.
SEA CASTLE
Erected in the early 13th century by the

Crusaders, the Sea Castle (Qasr al-Bahr; admission
LL4000; h9am-6pm, closes 4pm winter) sits on a
small island that was formerly the site of
a temple dedicated to Melkart, the Phoenician Hercules. It is connected to the mainland by an Arab fortified stone bridge. Like
many other coastal castles, it was largely
destroyed by the Mamluks to prevent the
Crusaders returning to the region. Fortunately, Fakhreddine II had it restored in the
17th century. Sometimes freelance guides
hang around outside. They charge LL10,000
for four people; negotiate if there are fewer
of you.
SOAP MUSEUM
Located in an old soap factory that dates

from the 17th century, this museum (x733
features include a 12-minute video with subtitles in English, a good coffee shop and souvenir shop selling Sidons speciality, sanioura
(a kind of Middle Eastern shortbread), as well
as other delicacies including rose water syrup,
Turkish delight and, of course, soap.
Sleeping
BUDGET
At the time of research, budget sleeping

options were almost nonexistent in Sidon.
However, a new place, Hotel al-Kalaa is expected to open in 2006, diagonally opposite
the Sea Castle.
Couvent Latin (Katia; x03-442 141; Couvent de
Terre Sainte et Paroisse Latine; s/d with bathroom US$15/25)
Located inside the convent, the little hotel

boasts a pleasant open courtyard. Rooms
are reasonably clean. The friendly family
offers to take guests around the souq. Ask
for directions at the Milk Time Caf in the
souq, which is about 30m from the Soap
Museums souq-side entrance.
Hotel dOrient (x720 364; Rue Shakrieh, Souq, Old
City; dm/s with fan US$5/7, d with fan US$10-12) Grim
and grimy, this is really only an option for
those on their last Lebanese lira. It lies diagonally opposite the As-Shakrieh Mosque
on Rue Shakrieh.
MIDRANGE
Yacoub Hotel (x737 733; www.yacoubhotel.com; btwn
Rue al-Moutrah & Rue Shakrieh; s/d with bathroom, TV

& breakfast US$30/50, ste with bathroom, TV & breakfast
US$60-80) This newly converted 200-year-old
building offers spotless, comfortable and

attractive rooms at good prices. Its friendly
and well managed with a salon where hot
drinks can be had. There are two entrances;
the easiest to find is from the courtyard opposite the Catholic cathedral of St Nicholas
around 150m from the soap museum.
353; Rue al-Moutran; admission free; h9am-6pm SatThu) shows that soap can be scintillating!
Eating
Sidon (alongside Tripoli) has been famous in the Middle East for its soap since
the 17th century. The museums exhibits and
interpretive installations are well done. Look
for the fantastic drying towers (where the
soap bars are left to dry for up to a year)
and the delightful bird-shaped soap moulds.
Guides (speaking English and French) give
interesting 15- to 20-minute free tours (but
you should tip LL5000 to LL10,000). Other
9000, pasta LL8000-12,000; hnoon-midnight Tues-Sun;

a) Serving an eclectic mix of Italian, Chi-
Palamera (x729 543; Riad as-Solh; pizzas LL6000nese and Mexican, this place also has a kind
of conservatory at the back that opens in
summer. Its about 100m from the Soap
Museum.
Rest House (x722 469; mezze LL4000-6000, grills
LL12,000; hnoon-10pm) On the seafront, 200m
southeast of the Sea Castle (over which it
looks), this government-owned restaurant
S O U T H O F B E I R U T S i d o n ( S a i d a ) 445
has indoor and outdoor eating areas and

serves good fish, though its not cheap.
Patisserie Kanaan (x720 271; Rue Riad as-Solh;
h5.30am-10pm; a) This modern, clean and
air-conditioned place, just south of the Nejmeh roundabout, has an excellent selection
of Arab sweets and ice cream (LL1250 for a
cornet). Its great for a coffee (from LL2250),
a cake (LL1250) or breakfast.
Patisserie Al-Fardos (x 721 878; Nejmeh Sq;
h5am-10pm) This patisserie is cheaper than
Kanaan, with coffee from LL1000 and a
good selection of Arab pastries including
sanioura (LL1000 for six).
There are lots of sandwich stalls and
cheap cafs around Saahat an-Nejmeh and
the harbour. A good choice is Abou Rami
(h7.30am-9.15pm Sat-Thu), a felafel shop opposite the Sea Castle which also has some
outdoor tables and chairs.

TO/FROM BEIRUT
Buses and service taxis from Beirut to Sidon

leave from the Cola bus station. To Sidon,
OCFTC buses (LL750, one hour, every 10
minutes from 6am to 8pm) leave from the
southwest side of the Cola roundabout. Zantout (in Beirut x03-223 414), the best private
company for the south, also runs 36 buses
daily from 6am to 9pm (LL750, one hour), 14
of which are express (LL1500, 30 minutes).
Minibuses (without air-con) to/from Sidon
leave every 10 to 15 minutes from 6.30am
to 8.30pm and cost LL1000/1500 for day/
evening trips. Service taxis to Sidon, which
congregate near the buses, cost LL2500.
Zantout (x722 783) runs regular buses
from Sidon to Beirut from 5am to 8pm
daily (LL1500, 30 minutes) departing from
the Lebanese Transport Office on Saahat
an-Nejmeh; OCFTC buses (LL750, one
hour, every 10 minutes from 5am to 6.30pm)
also leave from here.
TO TYRE
The Zantout bus from Sidon to Tyre

(LL750, 45 minutes to one hour, nine to 10
buses from 6am to 7.30pm) leaves from the
Lebanese Transport Office at the southern
end of the town on Rue Fakhreddine, the
continuation of Rue Riad as-Solh, near the
Castle of St Louis. A service taxi from Sidon
to Tyre costs LL3000 and a minibus (leaving from Saahat an-Nejmeh) costs LL1000.
LEBANON
LEBANON
444 S O U T H O F B E I R U T S i d o n ( S a i d a )
Famous for its extraordinary Roman ruins

(its a Unesco World Heritage site), Tyre
offers much more besides. It has picturesque
harbours, fascinating souqs and, according
to some, the cleanest beaches in Lebanon
or the least polluted, according to others! It
also makes a good base for further exploration of the south. After suffering dreadfully
during the civil war and Israeli incursions,
Tyre is now showing signs of renewal.
History
Tyres origins are still under investigation
by historians. Herodotus dates it to approximately 2750 BC. Ruled by the Egyptians and then the famous King Hiram
(who sent cedar wood and skilled workers to Jerusalem so that the Hebrew King
Solomon could build the Temple of Jerusalem) it prospered. Later it was colonised
by the Assyrians, Neo-Babylonians, Greeks,
Seleucids, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks and Ottomans and lost
much of its early prosperity. Today it is
home to a number of Palestinian refugee
camps, but is trying to regain its position as
one of Lebanons major cities.

The old part of Tyre lies on the peninsula
jutting out into the sea. The modern town
is on the left-hand side as you arrive from
Beirut. Behind the port is the Christian
h10.30am-1am; a) Just north of the main roundabout.

Swiss.Net (x03-446 154; Rue Nabih Berri; per hr
LL1000; h9am-midnight) Cheaper but a bit slower.
Sights
Tyres excavated ruins are in three parts. The
Al-Mina Archaeological Site (Area 1; x740 115; adult/
student/child LL6000/3500/3500; h8.30am-30min before

sunset) covers a large area leading down to the
ancient Egyptian submerged harbour created

in the 3rd millennium BC. It features a mosaic street paved with impressive geometrical
Roman and Byzantine mosaics. On each side
of the street are rows of large columns, made
of green marble imported from Greece.
Look out also for the unusually large public bath from the 2nd or 3rd century AD and
an unusual 4th-century rectangular arena,
which served as a central meeting place and
would have held up to 2000 spectators.
The second site, known as Area 2, is a
five-minute walk to the north of the first
site. On our last visit it was fenced off and
closed to the public but it should reopen
by mid-2007. You can see the ruins of a
crusader cathedral, including massive granite
columns, from the road.
The Al-Bass Archaeological Site (Area 3; x740
530; adult/student/child LL6000/3500/3500; h8.30am30min before sunset) lies 2km from the Al-Mina
site. Just past the entrance is a funerary complex, with hundreds of ornate stone and
marble sarcophagi from the Roman period
lining the road. Some are intricately carved
with the names of the occupants or reliefs
drawn from the Iliad. The Byzantines re-
0
0
Funerary Complex....................... 9
Hippodrome.............................. 10
Lighthouse.................................11
Monumental Archway............... 12
Mosaic Street.............................13
Pedestrian Road.........................14
Rectangular Arena..................... 15
Roman Road..............................16
Ruins..........................................17
Ruins Area 2.............................. 18
INFORMATION
Alfanet.........................................1 C3
Post Office...................................2 B3
Swiss.Net..................................... 3 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Al-Bass Archaeological Site (Area
3).............................................4
Al-Mina Archaeological Site (Area
1).............................................5
Aqueducts................................... 6
Bath............................................. 7
Crusader Cathedral...................... 8
1 km
0.5 miles
C3
A3
D3
A3
A3
D3
D3
A2
D3
B3
D3
A3
D3
B3
A3
SLEEPING
Elissa Beach Club........................19 C4
Hotel/Restaurant al-Fanar..........20 A2
11
20
Murex Hotel...............................21 B4
Rest House................................ 22 C4
EATING
Abou Deeb................................ 23 C4
Al-Nissar.................................... 24 C4
Le Phnicien...............................25 A2
Skandar's Caf.........................(see 19)
Tanit Restaurant.........................26 B2
Tyros Restaurant........................ 27 C4
TRANSPORT
Buses to Sidon..........................(see 29)
Minibuses to Beirut..................(see 28)
Service Taxi Stand...................... 28 B3
Taxi Stand................................. 29 D2
To Sidon (40km);
Beaufort Castle (50km);
Beirut (81km)
25
Christian
Quarter
Fishing
Harbour
29
Police
Prison
26
Market
(Fruit &
General)
Souqs
28
iS
ud
Jo
18
Al-Bass
Palestinian
Camp
UN Building
Heram
17
St
Entrance
to Site
15
14
12
13
Ru
Ab
Entrance
to Ruins
16
10
De
eb
23
21
24
3
Ru
4 M E D I T E R R A N E A N
Istiraha St
x07 / pop 135,204
TYRE (SOUR)
TYRE (SOUR)
quarter, with its tiny alleys and old houses

with shaded courtyards.
Theres still no tourist information office
in Tyre (though one should open in 2007),
but two freelance guides (group LL20,000) are
usually available at the archaeological sites.
Individuals or pairs can negotiate a price.
Look also for the very informative guidebook (LL10,000) written by a Lebanese archaeologist, Ali Khalil Badawi, and recently
translated into English (and, in the future,
French) on offer at the sites. A brochure
about the sites is available at the tourist
office in Beirut.
Banks with ATMs and the post office
(x740 565) are near the service-taxi stand
in the town centre. Internet cafs include
the following:
Alfanet (x347 047; off Rue Abu Deeb; per hr LL1500;
el S
About 4km northeast of Sidon, Echmoun (admission free; h8.30am-6pm) is Lebanons only
Phoenician site boasting more than mere
foundations. There are remains of temples
and shops as well as interesting mosaics
(though most are damaged).
The temple complex devoted to Echmoun, god of the city of Sidon, was begun
in the 7th century BC. Other buildings were
added later by the Persians, Romans and
Byzantines. The highlight of the site is undoubtedly the throne of Astarte, guarded
by winged lions.
From Sidon you can take a taxi (one way/
return LL5000/8000), service taxi (LL1000
to LL2000) or minibus (LL500) to the turnoff on the highway at the funfair, then walk
the 1.5km to the ruins.
Ram
ECHMOUN
S O U T H O F B E I R U T T y re ( S o u r ) 447
Tyre (Sour)
19
Na
27
bi
Be
rri
S E A
22
used some, etching a quick cross and a new

name on them. The well-preserved Roman
road from the 1st century AD is made of
big blocks of paving stone and lined in
many parts with marble columns. The
road stretches in a straight line for about
1.6km from the impressive 20m-high monumental archway. which probably dates from
the time of Emperor Hadrian (2nd century
AD). To the south of the Roman road and
on a raised level is a pedestrian road which
was originally roofed (arches remain). Further along, theres a U-shaped hippodrome
built in the 2nd century AD for chariot racing. One of the largest of the Roman period,
it could hold more than 20,000 spectators.
At the far end of the road, there are the
To Public Beach
(500m)
remains of Roman aqueducts, parts of which

are held up by arcades.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Hotel/Restaurant al-Fanar (x741 111; www.alfanar

resort.com; s/d with bathroom & breakfast without sea
view US$25/40, with sea view US$35/50; a) With
its feet almost in the water, the location is

the principal plus here. Run by a charming family, its also homely, peaceful and
welcoming, with rooms that are simple but
clean. There are two little terraces, a pub
(beer LL3000) in the cellar and, outside, a
tiny beach. The restaurant (open from noon
to 10pm or later) overlooks the lighthouse
and serves homemade food and fish dishes
LEBANON
LEBANON
446 S O U T H O F B E I R U T E c h m o u n
(three-course fixed menus including six

mezze and a fish dish for two/four people
for US$30/50).
MIDRANGE
Elissa Beach Club (x/fax 347 551; Rue Nabih Berri;
s with bathroom US$35-50, d with bathroom US$47-60,

s/d with bathroom, balcony, minibar & TV US$55/60;
a) The rooms, decorated with matching
psychedelic curtains and bedspreads, are

clean and pretty comfortable albeit a little weary. Note that prices are negotiable
(particularly for students with ISIC cards).
Rooms 10 and 11 have direct sea views.
Murex Hotel (x347 111; www.murexhotel.com; Rue
Nabih Berri; s/d with bathroom, TV, balcony with sea view &
breakfast US$65/75; a) With a central location
opposite the sea, the rooms and balconies

arent enormous, but theyre pleasant and
comfortable. Guests can swim from the
steps below the hotel. Theres a coffee shop
with a terrace; a great place for breakfast.
TOP END
Rest House (x742 000; www.resthouse-tyr.com.lb;

Istiraha St; r with bathroom, TV, terrace/balcony & breakfast US$70, with sea view US$90, ste US$120-200 plus 10%
tax; aps) Large, bright, airy, tranquil,
and with excellent facilities like two private

beaches, two pools, health club, restaurant,
snack bar and beach bar, this is a luxury
hotel at midrange prices. Nonguests can use
the beach club and open-air pool (open midMay to mid-October) for LL15,000/8000 per
adult/child (four to 12 years old) at weekends and LL11,000/6000 during weekdays.
Eating
Le Phnicien (x740 564; Old Port; mezze LL3000-5500,
fish LL40,000-70,000, beer LL3000; hnoon-11pm winter,
noon-2am summer; a) Considered the best in
town, its speciality is fish. The pleasant outdoor terrace overlooks the fishing harbour.
Tanit Restaurant (x347 539; mezze LL4000, mains
LL15,000, beer LL3000; h10am-midnight or later) The
atmospheric Tanit is popular with locals for
its bar as well as its food, which ranges from
mezze to stir-fries and steaks. The restaurant lies around the corner from the fishing
harbour.
Tyros Restaurant (x741 027; Rue Nabih Berri; mezze
LL4500, grills LL6500-7500, beer LL2500; h8am-midnight

Mon-Fri, 8am-4am Sat & Sun; a) This enormous,
tentlike place is popular with the locals for

its great atmosphere, a huge mezze menu
and food at reasonable prices. On Saturdays

theres classical Arabic music and singing
from 10.30pm to 4am.
Skandars Caf (x344 414; beer LL3000, mezze
LL3000, grill LL10,000; h6am-2am; a) Below the
Elissa Beach Club hotel, it serves a mix of
Italian, Chinese and Lebanese food. If you
fancy a dance, get here after 11pm on a Saturday, when theres a DJ in attendance.
There are a few fast-food places at the
roundabout on Rue Abou Deeb, including the large and very popular Abou Deeb,
which serves good felafels (LL1000) and
shwarmas (LL1750). Close by is Al-Nissar
(Ramel St; h9.30am-3am), which serves delicious
fruit juice from LL2000 and ice cream from
LL1000.

For Beirut, microbuses (LL2000, after 8pm
LL3000, one to 1 hours, every 15 minutes depending on passenger demand from
around 5am to 8om or 10om) go direct. The
larger buses stop in Sidon (where its necessary to change). The first bus from Tyre to
Sidon (LL1000, 30 to 45 minutes) leaves daily
from the roundabout that lies about 1km
north of the entrance to the Al-Bass site,
the first at 6am and the last at 8pm. Large
minibuses also travel from Tyre to Beirut
(LL2000 to LL3000, one to 1 hours, 5am to
8pm depending on passenger demand).
A service taxi from Beirut (Cola) costs
LL6000 and from Sidon LL3000. Minibuses
leave from the Cola transport hub in Beirut and cost LL2000; from Sidon theyre
LL1000. The Sidon service-taxi and minibus stand is about 50m before the port on
the northern coastal road.
CHOUF MOUNTAINS
These spectacular mountains, southeast of

Beirut, are the southernmost part of the Mt
Lebanon Range. In places theyre wild and
beautiful; in others theyre dotted with small
villages and terraced for easy cultivation.
Information
Reel (x511 195; Deir al-Qamar; per hr LL2000;
h9am-2am) Provides Internet access.
Sights
BEITEDDINE PALACE (BEIT AD-DIN)
The main attraction in the Chouf is the

Beiteddine Palace (Beit ad-Din; x05-500 077; adult/
S O U T H O F B E I R U T C h o u f M o u n t a i n s 449
student LL7500/5000; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9am3.45pm Nov-May), 50km southeast of Beirut. Sit-
ting majestically atop a hill and surrounded

by terraced gardens and orchards, the palace was built by Emir Bashir over a period
of 30 years, starting in 1788.
Meaning House of Faith, it was built
over and around a Druze hermitage. During the French mandate it was used for local
administration, but after 1930, was declared
a historic monument. In 1943 it became the
presidents summer residence. The palace
was extensively damaged during the Israeli
invasion; its estimated that up to 90% of
the original contents were lost during this
time. When fighting ended in 1984, the
palace was taken over by the Druze militia,
who ordered its restoration and declared it
a Palace of the People. In 1999 the Druze
returned it to the government.
Although conceived by Italian architects,
the palace incorporates all the traditional
forms of Arab architecture. The gate opens on
to a 60m-wide courtyard (Dar al-Baraniyyeh)
walled on three sides only; the fourth side has
great views out over valleys and hills.
A double staircase on the western side
leads into a smaller central courtyard (Dar
al-Wousta) with a central fountain. Beyond
this courtyard is the third and last courtyard (Dar al-Harim). This was the centre of
the family quarters, which also included a
beautiful hammam and huge kitchens.
Underneath the Dar al-Wousta and Dar
al-Harim are the former stables, now home
to an outstanding collection of 5th- and 6thcentury Byzantine mosaics. Found at Jiyyeh,
30km south of Beirut, they were brought to
Beiteddine in 1982. Dont miss them.
In the right-hand wing of the building,
theres a museum exhibiting Roman and
Byzantine artefacts, some guns, jewellery
and old clothes.
Theres no information available on site
so its worth picking up a free brochure at
Beiruts tourist office beforehand. Guided
tours are no longer available.
The palace hosts an annual music festival
in July (see p456).
DEIR AL-QAMAR
x05
This picturesque town, 5km downhill from

Beiteddine, was the seat of Lebanons emirates during the 17th and 18th centuries.
MODERN MYTHS
Around 2km from Deir al-Qamar, youll
pass a strange folly in the shape of a castle known as Muse Moussa (x500 106;
admission LL7500; h8am-5pm winter, 8am-6pm

summer). Built in 1945 in response to a seem-
ingly impossible condition of marriage requiring that every stone must be different,
the unrequited lover built his castle yet
never got his queen. Inside are montages
showing traditional Lebanese life as well as
an extensive collection of armoury.
The main square has some fine examples

of Arab architecture, including the Mosque
of Fakhreddine built in 1493; a silk khan built
in 1595, now housing the French Cultural
Centre; the Municipality housed in an 18thcentury palace, which was once a tribunal;
and Fakhreddines Palace, built in 1620 and
now an underwhelming wax museum (x512
777; adult/student LL6000/4000; h8.30am-sunset) featuring Lebanons historical personalities.
Inside theres a terrace caf (mezze/steak LL3000/
12,000; h9am-midnight) and, in the basement in
summer, a disco (admission free; h8pm-2am).
Sleeping & Eating

BEITEDDINE
Theres nowhere to stay in Beiteddine village, and few places to eat.

Mir Amin Palace (x05-501 315; www.miraminpalace
.com; s/d/junior ste with bathroom, TV & breakfast US$123/

155/300 plus 10% tax; aspi) On the hill
overlooking both the palace and Beiteddine

village is this five-star establishment, built by
Emir Bashir for his eldest son. Its one of the
most beautifully set, tranquil and luxurious
hotels in Lebanon. In the low season (end of
September to end of March) discounts of up
to 40% are offered, making it a bargain. Internet access is available at LL5000 per hour.
If you cant stay here, come for a drink (beer
LL4400) or meal (three courses and open bar
per adult/child US$25/12.50, open Monday
to Saturday). The pool (open from early May
to the end of October) is open to nonguests
(per adult/child LL15,500/10,100).
Le Moulin (x05-501 050; mezze LL3250-7000, grill
LL8000-12,000; h10am-11pm Sun-Fri, Sat 10am-5am summer only; a) Around 1.5km from Mir Amin
Palace at the base of the hill, this renovated

water mill has an attractive vaulted cellarlike
LEBANON
LEBANON
448 S O U T H O F B E I R U T C h o u f M o u n t a i n s
interior and outdoor terrace. On Saturday

from 9pm to 3am theres live Arab music.
In the village, there are a couple of fastfood places, such as Snack Vieux Moulin (shish
kebabs LL3000), open all year.
DEIR AL-QAMAR
Theres nowhere to stay in the town itself.

La Bastide (x505 320; bastideir@hotmail.com; d
with bathroom & breakfast winter/summer US$50/60)
Follow the main road up the hill going

east to Beiteddine and, perched just off the
main road about 1.5km past the town, is
this old house with lovely views from the
terrace across to Beiteddine, and comfortable rooms (most with balconies). Drinks
and snacks are available.
Al-Midane (x03-763 768; h10am-10pm winter,
10am-2am or later in summer) With its large terrace
right on the main square, this is a great
place for a drink (beer LL3000) or a meal
(mezze LL3000 to LL7500, grills LL12,000
to LL18,000). The food is a mix of Italian,
French and Lebanese. You can also eat inside the stunning 600-year-old vault in the
building behind.
Snack Antoun (sandwiches, pizzas & burgers LL3000;
h8.30am-8.30pm) In the little arcade that
runs off the road just above the mosque,
this place serves snacks and good coffee in a
tiny garden. The charming and characterful old proprietor, Mr Antoun, is so pleased
to have company (even non-Arab-speaking)
he rarely allows customers to pay!

If you want to visit Beiteddine, go to the
northwest junction of the big roundabout at
Cola (look for the derelict building) and ask
for the bus to Niha (LL1500, 1 hours, every
hour from 8.15am until early evening). On
the bus, tell the driver youre going to Beiteddine; youll be dropped off at a roundabout
with a statue of two soldiers. Take the road
opposite the Al-Dalwa restaurant and walk
approximately 200m (dont take the first
turn right). A bit further on and around a
bend is the road leading to the Mir Amin
Palace Hotel, and from there its a short walk
downhill to Beiteddine. If this all sounds too
complicated, you can pay LL5000 for a service taxi direct from Cola to Beiteddine.
From Beiteddine, its a 6km downhill walk
to Deir al-Qamar. (A service taxi for this trip
costs LL2500 to LL3000.)
Travellers wanting to go to Deir alQamar first can catch OCFTC bus 18 from
Cola to Damour then take a service taxi
from Damour (from LL500). A service taxi
from Cola to Deir al-Qamar costs LL4000.
To get away, travellers can usually catch
one of the buses or service taxis on their
way to/from Beirut.
Note that service taxis on the Beirut
Deir al-Qamar route are infrequent, and
rare after dark.
Sleeping & Eating
B E K A A VA L L E Y B a a l b e k 451
BEKAA VALLEY

The Bekaa Valley is famous for its magnificent archaeological sites at Baalbek and
Aanjar as well as for being the homeland
of Hezbollah (Party of God). Heavily cultivated over millennia (it was one of Romes
breadbaskets), it has suffered from both
deforestation and soil erosion and now is a
relatively deprived area.
The valleys major transport hub is the
town of Chtaura, situated on the Beirut
Damascus Hwy.
ZAHL
x08 / pop 78,145
Zahl is renowned within Lebanon for its

open-air riverside restaurants and general holiday feel. Very busy during the hot
weather, its like a ghost town in winter
when most restaurants close. In summer,
it makes a nice lunch stop en route from
Beirut to Baalbek and is a good base for
exploring the valley. Most travellers choose
to stay either in Baalbek or in Aanjar.
Information
Most of the towns banks, ATMs and exchange bureaus are on Rue Brazil, the main
street. No banks change travellers cheques.
Dataland Internet (x891 009; Rue Brazil; per hr
LL2000; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-2pm &

5-11pm Sun) Opposite the clock tower. Offers the fastest
connections in town.
Post office (x822 127; Rue Brazil) About 750m from
highway turn-off, on the right.
Tourist Information Office (x802 566; 3rd fl
Chamber of Commerce Bldg; h8.30am-1.30pm
Mon-Sat) Just off Rue Brazil, signposted about 750m from
the highway turn-off.
Hotel Monte Alberto (x 810 912; www.monteal

berto.com; s/d with bathroom, TV, balcony & breakfast
US$50/60; a) Located high above town, the
hotel commands amazing views. Its rooms

are simple but spotless and comfortable.
Theres a large restaurant (with a rotating
section in the corner) and a lovely summer
terrace landscaped into the mountainside.
Hotel Akl (x820 701; Rue Brazil; s/d US$15/20, s/d
with bathroom US$25/33) Though the characterfilled hotel is dilapidated, rooms are clean
with balconies and loads of light. Rear rooms
overlook the river. Management is friendly.
Grand Hotel Kadri (x813 920; www.grandhotel
kadri.com; Rue Brazil; s/d with bathroom, TV & breakfast
US$105/125 plus 10% tax; ap) Facilities include
a health club, tennis court, nightclub and

two restaurants but, like all hotels on the
strip, it can be noisy. The swimming pool
(mid-June to mid-September) is open to
nonguests for US$10/5 per adult/child up
to 12 years old.
Arabi Hotel (x821 214; Rue Bardouni; sarabi@inco
.com.lb; d/ste with bathroom, TV, balcony & breakfast AprOct US$66/132; hclosed Nov-Mar; a) Located on
the Bardouni river at the heart of the outdoor eating scene, its rooms are quite noisy
and rather overpriced. Its terrace restaurant
(meals US$20 to US$40) is famous in Zahl.
Next door to the Arabi Hotel is the new
restaurant Mazaj (x800 800; mains LL9000-16,000;
hnoon-midnight Sun & Mon, noon-6am Sat; a) With
two separate menus, one Lebanese and
the other international, its a good place
for bickering couples unable to agree! We
recommend the mezze. On Saturday from
around 10.30pm to 6am, it transforms into
a club with live music.

Only minibuses run from Beirut to Zahl
(LL3000, around one hour, approximately
every 15 minutes from 4am to 1am) leaving
from the southwest side of the roundabout
at the Cola transport hub. Service taxis
(LL6000) leave from the same spot. Both
will drop you off at the highway turn-off,
which is over 1km from the centre of town
(or for LL1000 extra you can ask the service
taxi to drop you off at the centre).
To get to Baalbek from Zahl by government bus, take OCFTC bus 4 or 5 (LL500,
30 minutes) from the bus stop just below
the car park midway along Rue Brazil. A
VISIT TO THE VINEYARD

A few kilometres south of Zahl lies one
of Lebanons most prestigious vineyards,
Chteau Ksara (x813 495; Ksara; admission
free; h 9am-7pm, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat winter).
Lebanons oldest winery was founded by

the Jesuits in 1857. Underground, a network
of more than 2km of tunnels was discovered, dating from Roman times. These natural cellars made perfect storage. A visit
includes a 10-minute film about the winery
and a tasting of the Chteaus red, white
and ros wines, followed by a short tour
(in English and French) of the cellars.
service taxi to Baalbek will cost LL2000 and

take around 30 minutes; youll find one at
the main taxi stand on a square off Rue
Brazil. Minibuses run regularly to Baalbek
(LL2000, 30 minutes) from around 6am
to 11pm from the bus stop; they also run
regularly during the same hours to Beirut
(LL3000 to LL4000, about one hour) and
to Chtaura (LL1000) for Anjar.
BAALBEK
x08 / pop 30,916
Known as the Sun City of the ancient world,

Baalbek is the most impressive ancient site in
Lebanon and arguably the most impressive
Roman site in the Middle East. Its temples,
built on an extravagant scale that outshone
anything in Rome, enjoyed a reputation as
one of the wonders of the world. Today,
the World Heritagelisted site is Lebanons
number one tourist attraction.
Each July, Lebanons most famous arts
festival is held here (see p456).
History
The town of Baalbek, 86km northeast of
Beirut, was originally named after the Phoenician god Baal. The Greeks later called it
Heliopolis (City of the Sun), and the Romans made it a major worship site for their
god Jupiter.

The ruins lie just off the main Beirut road,
with the Palmyra opposite. The banks, various eateries and Al-Shams Hotel also lie on
Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar. Intersecting with
the latter is Ras al-Ain Blvd, where Pension
LEBANON
LEBANON
450 B E K A A VA L L E Y Z a h l
Shouman, the service-taxi office and riverside restaurants are found.

Jamal Bank (x370 563; Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar;
none is available at the site. Guides speaking

English, French, Italian, Spanish or German
can be organised at the ticket office and cost
US$17 for one to 10 people and US$20 for a
group of 11 to 20, for one hour.
In the car park near the ticket office there
is a museum (admission included with site
ticket; same opening hours) housed in a large
vaulted tunnel. As well as displaying some
beautiful artefacts, there are well-designed,
interesting and informative illustrated panels chronicling Baalbeks history through a
series of themes. Its well worth a visit.
From the ticket office, youll enter the ruins
via a forecourt and monumental staircase
leading up to the propylaeum. Next to this is
the hexagonal court, where a raised threshold
h8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu, 8.30-12.30 Fri, 8.30-noon Sat)

Has an ATM and changes travellers cheques.
Network Center (x370 192; off Rue Abdel Halim
Hajjar; per hr LL1000; h10am-9pm) The only place in
town offering Internet access.
Sights
A good time to visit the site of the ruins
(x370 645; adult LL12,000; h8.30am-30min before
sunset) is early morning or even better
late in the afternoon, outside the tour bus

time when its also cooler. Allow a few hours
to wander through the museum and the ruins
and consider taking food and drink with you;
0
0
BAALBEK
A
200 m
0.1 miles
D
INFORMATION
Jamal Bank (ATM)....................... 1 A3
Network Center........................... 2 A4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Forecourt & Propylaea..................3
Great Court..................................4
Great Mosque..............................5
Hexagonal Court..........................6
Mamluk Fortification & Mosque...7
Mamluk Tower & Museum...........8
9
Museum Entrance.........................
Six Standing Columns................ 10
Temple of Bacchus..................... 11
Temple of Jupiter....................... 12
Temple of Venus........................13
Ticket Office & Entrance.............14
6
14
4
12
10
7
11
13
50 m
To Hermel
(60km)
Souq
15
Mosque
20
See Inset
Pharmacy
ja
aj
H
m
ali
e
Ru
H
l
de
Ab
18
19
16
2
al-
Ai
23
Ruins
Mosque
Ra
1
Cathedral of
St Barbara
B3
A4
B3
A4
A4
TRANSPORT
Buses to Bekaa Valley...............(see 23)
Minibuses to Beirut.................... 23 A3
Taxi Stand..................................24 C3
24
22
SLEEPING
Al-Shams Hotel.......................... 15
Hotel Jupiter.............................. 16
Hotel Shouman.......................... 17
Palmyra Hotel............................ 18
Palmyra Hotel Annexe............... 19
EATING
Al-Khayam Restaurant............... 20 B3
Riviera Restaurant...................... 21 D4
Shahrazad.................................. 22 B3
17
B1
B1
C3
B1
A2
B2
B1
A2
A2
A1
B2
B1
Bl
vd
Park
21
To The Quarry (500m);

Beirut (85km)
Baalbek
To Ras al-Ain
Spring (500m)
B E K A A VA L L E Y A a n j a r 453
separates the propylaea from the sacred enclosure. Beyond this is the Great Court (Sacrificial Courtyard), which leads to the remains
of the Temple of Jupiter, completed around AD
60. Its remaining six columns are a massive
and spectacular reminder of the size and
majesty of the original structure.
Adjacent to the Temple of Jupiter is the
Temple of Bacchus, known in Roman times
as the small temple. This was, in fact,
dedicated to Venus/Astarte rather than
to Bacchus. Completed around AD 150,
its amazingly well preserved and is quite
ornate. In the southeastern corner of the
temple stands the attractive 15th-century
Mamluk tower. The museum it houses was
closed when last visit. Behind the temple
on its western flank are the remains of the
Mamluk fortifications and mosque.
When you leave the site, check out the
exquisite Temple of Venus near the entrance.
Its closed to visitors but you can have a
good look by wandering around the perimeter fence.
Sleeping
Palmyra Hotel (x376 011; fax 370 305; Rue Abdel
Halim Hajjar; s/d/tr with bathroom US$38/53/63) A relic
itself, the Palmyra has seen guests as diverse
as Jean Cocteau and the shah of Iran grace
its portals. Rooms are simple but comfortable though the bathrooms are showing
their age. Ask for a room with views over
the ruins; best are Nos 25, 27 and 28. A
few doors down in a lovely old building
is the Palmyras annexe (double room in
low/high season US$75/100) furnished like
a beautiful private home with very comfortable rooms. Breakfast costs US$5.
Hotel Jupiter (x376 71; Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar; s
with/without shower US$15/10, d with shower US$20) Entered via an arcade northeast of the Palmyra
Hotel, it has large, light but basic rooms with
fans off a central courtyard. Theres also a
restaurant. Hani, the helpful (and talkative)
owner, is a mine of local knowledge.
Hotel Shouman (x03-796 077; Ras al-Ain Blvd;
dm/s/d LL10,000/20,000/25,000) Close to the ruins,
three of the rooms here enjoy great views.
There are comfortable beds and a simple but
clean shared bathroom. Enter via a stone
staircase; the pension is on the 1st floor.
Al-Shams Hotel (x373 284; Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar; dm/d US$6/7) Three rooms have balconies
(two with views over the ruins), theres free
kitchen access and 24-hour hot water, but

rooms (with shared bathroom) are basic and
only moderately clean. Breakfast is US$3.
Eating
Shahrazad (Shearazade; x371 851; Souq, off Rue Abdel
Halim Hajjar; chicken shwarma sandwich/kebab LL3000/
7000; h8am-midnight) Frequented by locals,
this place is best known for the fabulous

views of the ruins from its large windows.
Food is simple but tasty and good value. If
you havent yet done justice to Lebanese
mezze, heres your chance: theres a mezze
menu (a selection of 13) for US$8.
Riviera Restaurant (x370 296; Ras al-Ain Blvd;
mezze LL2000; h8am-midnight) In summer, this
restaurant en route to the spring serves basic
but tasty food in its outdoor eating area.
There are quite a few cheap eateries on
Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar; the best is the very
popular Al Khayam Restaurant (h10am-midnight)
at the beginning of the street, which serves
delicious felafels (LL750) and shwarma
(LL1500) and has a few tables.
Further up Rue Abdel Halim Hajjar are
several shops selling delicious sweets and
meat pastries.

The only public transport options from Beirut to Baalbek are minibuses and service
taxis. From the Cola transport hub, a minibus to Baalbek costs LL5000 (1 hours); a
service taxi costs LL7000. The bus stop in
Baalbek is opposite the Palmyra Hotel and
the service-taxi office is in the souq area.
For information about how to get to
Baalbek from Zahl, see p451. For information about how to get to Baalbek from
Tripoli or Bcharr, see p441.
Minibuses from Baalbek go direct to Beirut (LL5000, 1 hours, 24 hours a day subject to demand); to Damascus (LL7500, two
hours) go direct mornings only (from 8am
to noon); in the afternoon change at Chtaura
(LL3000, 20 to 30 minutes, 24 hours). If you
cant find a minibus to Beirut, you can take
a bus to Chtaura (LL2000), then a service
taxi from there (US$4 per person).
AANJAR
x08 / pop 3240
The best-preserved Islamic archaeological

site in Lebanon, Aanjar (x621 780; admission
LL6000; h8am-sunset), is the only significant
LEBANON
LEBANON
452 B E K A A VA L L E Y B a a l b e k
Baalbek
LEBANON
Umayyad site in Lebanon. It was discovered

by archaeologists as recently as the 1940s.
The Umayyads ruled briefly but energetically
from AD 660 to 750 and Aanjar is thought to
have been built by the sixth Umayyad caliph,
Walid I (r AD 705715). It was an important
inland commercial centre, located on intersecting trade routes. The walled and fortified
city was built along symmetrical Roman lines;
the layout is in four equal quarters, separated
by two 20m-wide avenues, the cardo maximus
and the decumanus maximus. There is a tetrapylon, a four-column structure, where the two
streets intersect; its interesting due to its alternating layers of large blocks and narrow
bricks, a typically Byzantine effect.
In the citys heyday, its main streets were
flanked by palaces, baths, mosques, shops
(600 have been uncovered) and dwellings.
The remains of these can be seen today. Perhaps the most impressive are those of the
great palace, one wall and several arcades of
which have been reconstructed.
Local guides are usually available (around
US$6/10 for couples/groups) at the site, and
very useful free tourism brochures (with
map) are distributed with tickets.
If you need to overnight here, you can
stay at the very comfortable Challalat (Mona
From Beirut a bus leaves at 2pm (LL2000

to LL3000, 1 hours, Monday to Saturday).
From Aanjar, theres a bus daily at 6am.
Lisa; x/fax 620 753; s/d/ste with bathroom, TV & balcony

LL60,000/90,000/120,000; a) a new hotel and the
only one in town at the time of writing. It

also has a restaurant.
To eat, head for the excellent and extremely
popular Shams Restaurant (x620 567; BeirutDamascus Hwy; mezze LL2500, grill LL6000; h10am-midnight), serving superb fresh fish and seafood,
among other dishes, at excellent prices. Its

around 200m down from the ruins on the
main road and also has a lovely terrace.
Aanjar is 21km from Chtaura on the BeirutDamascus Hwy. You can catch a service taxi (LL1000) or bus 12 (LL500) from
Chtaura, which will drop you at the turnoff with the Welcome to Aanjar sign, leaving you with a 2km walk. Take the road on
the left-hand side, walk for approximately
10 minutes and turn left at the road opposite the Shams restaurant. Follow that road
until you reach the entrance to the ruins.
Alternatively, hire a taxi to take you all the
way to the site from Chtaura, have the cab
wait an hour while you admire the site,
then return. This costs around LL15,000.
For Beirut, go to Chtaura first.
LEBANON DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in Lebanon is not the
bargain it is elsewhere in the Middle East.
Budget-category dorm beds/singles start at
around US$6/10, doubles around US$12 to
US$15; midrange at US$35/45 for singles/
doubles. Top-end hotels start at US$95/125
for singles/doubles. Hotels quote room
rates in both Lebanese lira and US dollars,
but you can often pay in either.
Note that during the low season (December to March) and excluding holidays,
discounts of up to 40% or 50% are often
available; always ask. During the high season
(May to September), book well in advance.
ACTIVITIES
Lebanon offers a good range of activities.
Water sports, including water-skiing, boating
and jet-skiing (in Beirut and Jounieh among
other places) and diving (including Beirut)
are all possible. Diving is a rapidly growing
activity with some interesting wrecks to exPRACTICALITIES
The Daily Star provides good coverage of
local news in English, the daily LOrient
Le Jour in French. The monthly magazine,
the Guide, is useful for upcoming events,
openings and exhibitions in Beirut.
You can usually find it in Beiruts Virgin
Megastore.
The BBC World Service can be received
on both 1323kHz and 72kHz; popular
locally are Radio One, Light FM and
Nostalgie. The major local TV channels
are the government-run broadcaster
Tele-Liban, and five commercial
channels: New TV, MTV, Future TV,
NBN and LBC.
European two-round-pin plugs are
needed to connect to Lebanons
electricity supply (220VAC, 50Hz).
Lebanon uses the metric system for
weights and measures.
plore. A recommended website to check out

for diving in Lebanon is that of the Atlantis
Diving College (www.atlantisdivingcollege.com).
Lebanon is also one of the few countries
in the Middle East to offer skiing. The main
resorts include Faraya Mzaar (x09-341 034/5),
the Cedars (x06-671 073/2), Faqra (x01-257 220)
and Lalouq (x01-200 019). See p442 for more
information on skiing at the Cedars.
Biking is another growing sport. Cyclo
Sport (Map pp418-19; x446 792; cyclspor@cyberia
.net.lb; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayze, Beirut; h9am-11pm)
can suggest itineraries and routes and also

hires out bikes for LL4000/15,000/30,000
per hour/day/month. You can also buy a
bike (from LL150,000 to LL2,500,000) and
resell it here when you leave.
Caving is possible in various places including the Jeita Grotto (p432); Paragliding
is practised at some of the ski resorts, and
trekking possibilities are almost limitless in
Lebanon, including in the Qadisha Valley
near the Cedars.
BOOKS
As well as this book, Lonely Planet publishes
a comprehensive guide, Syria & Lebanon.
For ancient history, The Phoenicians by
Donald Harden is comprehensive and authoritative. For prewar travel accounts, try
The Hills of Adonis by Colin Thubron.
For the civil war The Formation of Modern Lebanon by Meir Zamir, and Pity the
Nation: Lebanon at War by Robert Fisk are
both recommended.
New publications include Transit Beirut
New Writing & Images (edited by Malu
Halasa and Roseanne Saad Khalaf), which
includes short stories by local authors;
Bliss Street by Kris Kenway, a breathless
account of a love affair between a local girl
and a mobile-phone salesman detained in
Lebanon by accident; and Teta, Mother &
Me An Arab Womans Memoir by Jean
Said Makdisi (the sister of Edward Said),
which tells the stories of three generations
of women. Much of it is set in Beirut.
For those planning a longer sojourn
in Beirut, the new At Home in Beirut. A
Practical Guide to Living in the Lebanese
Capital (LL25,000) by Charlotte Hamaoui
and Sylvia Palamoudian is comprehensive
and useful. Similar in vein is Family Fun in
Lebanon (LL18,000) by the same authors.
All these books are available in Beirut.
L E B A N O N D I R E C T O R Y B o o k s 455
BUSINESS HOURS
Unlike the rest of the Middle East, Lebanons weekend (when government offices
and schools close) is Sunday, not Friday.
During religious holidays (such as Ramadan) and the summer, hours may vary.
The following is a general guide only:
Banks Open 8.30am to 2pm Monday to Friday (a few open
to 4pm) and Saturday morning.
Government offices Open 8am to 2pm from Monday
to Saturday, except Friday when they open 8am to 11am.
Some offices close at noon on Saturday.
Museums and monuments Most close on Monday.
Private offices Open from 9am/10am to 2pm and 4pm
to 8pm/9pm Monday to Friday and some on Saturday
morning too.
Restaurants Between noon and midnight daily. Some
close on Sunday. Cafs open from around 7am (or earlier)
to around 7pm.
Shops Open from 9am/10am to 6pm/7pm from Monday
to Friday and Saturday morning. Some also open for a few
hours on Sunday.
COURSES
Many students come to Beirut to study Arabic. The following centres provide courses
for foreigners:
American Language Center (Map p422; x366-002;
www.a/c.edu.lb; 1st fl, Choueiry Bldg, Rue Bliss, Beirut; 25
hr per week for 1 month; US$250; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
American University of Beirut (Map p422;
x01-374 444; www.aub.edu/lb/cames)
For details about student visas see p458,

and for hotels that offer long-term accommodation see p423.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

The main danger in Lebanon is land mines.
UN experts estimate that more than 100,000
remain. Dont wander off tracks. Driving
carries its own risk (see p461).
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Lebanese Embassies & Consulates

Following are the Lebanese embassies and
consulates in major cities around the world.
Irish and New Zealand nationals should
apply to the UK consulate for visas. For
addresses of Lebanese embassies in neighbouring Middle Eastern countries, see the
relevant country chapter. Note: there is no
Lebanese embassy in either Israel or Syria.
Australia Canberra (x02-6295 7378; fax 6239 7024;
27 Endeavour St, Red Hill, Canberra, ACT 2603);
Melbourne (x03-9529 4588; toun@alphalink.com.au;
LEBANON
454 L E B A N O N D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n
117 Wellington St, Windsor, Victoria 3181); Sydney (x029361 5449; Level 5, 70 William St, Kings Cross, Sydney, NSW
2010) The Melbourne and Sydney branches only issue visas
to Victorian and NSW residents, respectively.
Canada Montreal (x514-276 2638, consuliban@qc
.aira.com; 40 Chemin Cte Ste Catherine, H2V-2A2-PQ,
Montreal153); Ottawa (x613-236 5825; fax 613-232
1609; 640 Lyon St, K1S 3Z5 Ottawa, Ontario)
Egypt (x02-361 0623; fax 361 0463; Sharia Ahmad
Nasim, Giza, Cairo)
France (x01 40 67 75 75; fax 01 40 67 16 42; 3 Rue
Coperic, 75016 Paris)
Germany (x4930-474 98 60; fax 474 986 66;
Berlinerstrasse 126-127, 13187 Berlin)
Jordan (x5929111; fax 5922333; Sharia Mohammed
Ali Bdeir, Abdoun, Amman)
Netherlands (x0703-65 89 06; fax 0703-62 0779;
Frederick Straat 2, 2514 LK The Hague)
UK (x020-7229 7265; fax 020-7243 1699; 21 Palace
Gardens Mews, London W8 4RA)
USA Los Angeles (x213-467 1253; fax 213-467 2935; Ste
510, 7060 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028); New
York (x212-744 7905; lebconny@aol.com; 9 East 76th
St, New York, NY 10021); Washington (x202-939 6300;
emblebanon@aol.com; 2560 28th St, Washington, DC 20008)
Embassies in Lebanon
Opening hours are generally from 8am or
9am to 12.30pm or 1pm Monday to Friday.
Some, such as the Jordanian embassy, are
also closed on Friday. Nationals of Ireland
and New Zealand should contact the UK
embassy. Note: there is no Syrian or Israeli
embassy in Lebanon; however, most nationalities will have no problem obtaining a Syrian visa on the Syrian border (see p653).
Australia (Map pp418-19; x01-374 701;
austemle@cyberia.net.lb; Serail Hill, Downtown, Beirut)

Canada (x04-521 163; beirut@dfait-maeci.gc.ca; 1st
fl, Coolrite Bldg, Autostrade, Jal ad-Dib) Around 10km
outside Beirut.
Egypt (Map pp418-19; x01-862 932; fax 01-863 751;
Rue Thomas Edison, off Rue Verdun, Ramlet al-Bayda)
France (Map pp418-19; x01-616 730; ambafrance@
cyberia.net.lb; Rue de Damas) Near the National Museum.
Germany (x04-914 444; germanemb@german
embassy.org.lb; Mtaileb, Rabieh) About 20km outside
Beirut.
Italy (Map pp418-19; x01-340 225; Place dEtoile,
Downtown)
Jordan (x05-922 500; fax 922 502; Rue Elias Helou,
Baabda) Around 7km outside Beirut.
Netherlands (Map pp418-19; x01-204 663;
nlgovbei@sodetel.net.lb; 9th fl, ABM Amro Bldg, Ave
Charles Malek, Achrafiye)
UK (Map pp418-19; x01-990 400; Serail Hill,
Downtown, Beirut)
US (x04-417 774; fax 407 112; Awkar, facing the
Municipality, PO Box 70-840 Antelias) About 25km
outside Beirut.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Many towns and villages host their own small
festivals which range from local fairs to fullon folkloric performances. The five major
arts festivals are listed here.
February
Al-Bustan Festival (www.albustanfestival.com) An
annual festival held for five weeks in Beit Mary (North of
Beirut). Daily events feature opera, chamber music and
orchestral concerts.
L E B A N O N D I R E C T O R Y M o n e y 457
Labour Day 1 May

Martyrs Day 6 May
Day of Resistance and Liberation 25 May
celebrates the Israeli withdrawal from South Lebanon in 2000
Assumption 15 August
All Saints Day 1 November
Independence Day 22 November
Christmas Day 25 December
Also observed are the Muslim holidays

(p647) of Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Prophets
Birthday, Islamic New Year and Ashura.
MONEY
Baalbek Festival (www.baalbeck.org.lb) Lebanons most

famous arts festival; held at the Roman ruins. Features
opera, jazz, poetry and pop, and theatre productions.
Beiteddine Festival (www.beiteddine.org.lb) Music,
dance and theatre held in the beautiful courtyard of the
Beiteddine Palace.
Byblos International Festival (www.byblosfestival
.org) Held in August among the ruins of Bybloss ancient
harbour includes pop, classic, opera and world music.
Lebanons currency is the Lebanese lira (LL)

(known locally as the Lebanese pound).
There are a few coins (piastres) of LL50, 100
and (more commonly) 250 and 500 pieces
still in circulation, as well as notes of 50, 100,
250, 500, 1000, 5000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000
and 100,000.
US dollars are accepted everywhere and
are as good as interchangeable with the
Lebanese lira. Often, smaller amounts are
quoted in Lebanese lira, and larger amounts
(with fewer 0s!) are quoted in US dollars
(the etiquette also followed in this chapter).
Many places give change in either currency.
October
Country
Unit
Australia
Canada
euro zone
Israel & the
Palestinian Territories
Japan
New Zealand
Syria
UK
USA
A$1
C$1
1
1101
1268
1774
NIS1
100
NZ$1
S1
UK1
US$1
320
1283
1027
29
2620
1502
July & August
Lebanese lira (LL)
Beirut International Marathon (www.beirut

marathon.org) Also includes wheelchair events.
Mid East Film Festival Beirut (www.beirutfilm
foundation.org) High-profile film festival with a growing
reputation as the best in the Middle East.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

Theres a thriving (if clandestine) gay scene
in Beirut, which is regarded as the most liberal capital in the Middle East. Nevertheless,
homosexuality is illegal under Lebanese law;
gay travellers should be discreet, particularly
in predominantly Muslim areas. For further
information, check out: www.gaymiddleeast
.com, www.travelandtranscendence.com and
www.bintelnas.org.
HOLIDAYS
New Years Day 1 January
Feast of Mar Maroun 9 February feast of the patron
saint of the Maronites
Easter March/April Good Friday to Easter Monday
inclusive
Qana Day 18 April commemorates the massacre at the
UN base at Qana
US dollars are widely accepted, but travellers

cheques (in any currency) are not. The best
way to access cash is through the ATMs found
in all larger towns. ATMs accept credit cards
or co-branded home banking cards for Cirrus, Diners Club, Maestro, MasterCard, Visa
and Visa-Electron and dispense cash in both
Lebanese lira and US dollars.
Budget hotels and restaurants do not accept credit cards. Tipping is widely expected
in Lebanon particularly in the better hotels
and restaurants and by drivers of hired cars
or guides; around 10% is a good bench-
mark. There is no black market in Lebanon,

but there are plenty of moneychangers that
sometime offer better rates that the banks.
Check commission, which can range from
3% to 5%, and shop around.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Film (from around LL6500) and video tapes
are widely available in Lebanon. Colour
transparency film (from around LL15,000)
is available in Beirut and some of the larger
towns (though Fujichrome Velvia as well as
black-and-white transparencies and film are
harder to find). It costs around LL4500/16,000
to process negative/transparency film.
Memory cards can be bought in Beirut,
but prices are on the high side. A few places
in Beirut are beginning to burn CDs of digital
photos (see p430). In Beirut, various shops
stock the spare parts of (and can repair)
the mainstream camera brands, including
Nikon, Canon, Olympus and Pentax.
TELEPHONE
Mobile Phones
Mobile-phone coverage extends throughout most of the country (bar a few remote,
mountainous areas). Obtaining a mobile in
Lebanon costs from US$250, but some carhire agencies hire them out for around US$6
per day, plus a deposit and call charges (see
Hire, p461).
Phone Codes
The country code for Lebanon is x961,
followed by the local area code (minus the
zero), then the subscriber number. Local
area codes are given at the start of each
city or town section in this chapter. The
area code when dialling a mobile phone is
x03. The international access code (to call
abroad from Lebanon) is x00.
Phonecards
Telephone cards have now rendered the old
government centrales or telecom centres
redundant. Cards come in two types: the
Telecard for LL10,000 or LL30,000, which
you can only use in card-operated public
phone booths, or the prepaid Kalam card
for LL15,000 or LL45,000, which you can
use to call from any phone, public or private
(by employing a code). Cards can be bought
in any centrale or anywhere the OGERO
sign is displayed. Calls to Australia and New
LEBANON
LEBANON
456 L E B A N O N D I R E C T O R Y Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
Zealand cost LL1400, to Ireland LL1500,

and to France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands,
Spain and the US LL1100. Rates are a couple
of hundred lira cheaper off-peak (10pm to
7am).
VISAS
People of all nationalities require a visa
for Lebanon bar Gulf countries (but not
Yemen). Nationals of Australia, Austria,
Belgium, Canada, Cyprus, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Gulf Cooperative Council (GCC) countries, Ireland,
Italy, Japan, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway,
Portugal, South Korea, Spain, Sweden,
Switzerland, the UK and the USA can get
a tourist or business visa on arrival at Beirut International Airport, or at the border
with Syria.
Lebanon denies entry to travellers with
evidence of a visit to Israel in their passport
(see p353). Look out for the question Have
you ever visited Israel or Occupied Palestine? on some visa application forms a
yes will put paid to your application.
Note that visa rules and regulations can
and do change in Lebanon; always check
the latest information with your embassy/
consulate.
At the airport, visa stamps are sold at a
window on the right (open 24 hours), just
before passport control. Visas for 48-hour
transit and one-month visas are issued free
of charge; a three-month visa costs US$34.
Note that the three-month visa requires
you to extend this before the end of your
first month (see p420). Visas (including
multiple-entry visas, which are useful if
youre planning to go in and out of Lebanon from Syria) can also be obtained in
advance at any Lebanese embassy or consulate. For addresses of Lebanese embassies
in the Middle East see the relevant country
chapters.
If youre coming by road (bus or private
transport), see the information under Border Crossings, p660.
Those wishing to study in Lebanon can
apply for a student one-year residence visa
(LL250,000) with a letter from the school,
two passport photos and two copies of your
passport details.
For details of visas for other Middle Eastern countries, see p653.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Compared to many parts of the Middle
East, Lebanon seems very liberal and laidback; women should have few problems
with either undue attention or safety. Revealing clothes are common in Beirut and
Jounieh, but outside the main centres longsleeved, loose clothing is still preferable.
This is particularly the case in the south
and the Bekaa Valley, which is a predominantly Shiite area. For further advice for
female travellers see p654.
TRANSPORT IN
LEBANON
GETTING THERE & AWAY
You can travel to Lebanon by air, by land
from Syria and, from May to October, by
boat from Limassol in Cyprus.
Entering Lebanon
Entering the country at the airport or border
crossings is neither complicated nor bureaucratic. All thats required is a valid passport
and a visa. You cant enter Lebanon if there is
evidence in your passport of a visit to Israel.
Passport
Make sure you carry your passport at all
times. Many Lebanese checkpoints require
them.
Air
Beirut international airport (BEY; x01-628 000;
www.beirutairport.gov.lb) is Lebanons only airport. The national carrier, Middle East Airlines
T R A N S P O R T I N L E B A N O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 459
The following international airlines service Beirut:

Air France (airline code AF; in Beirut x01-200 700;
www.airfrance.com) Hub: Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris.
British Airways (airline code BA; in Beirut x01-747 777;
www.britishairways.com) Hub: Heathrow Airport, London.

Cyprus Airways (airline code CY; in Beirut x01-200 886;
www.cyprusairways.com) Hub: Larnaca Airport, Larnaca.
EgyptAir (airline code MS; in Beirut x01-980 165; www
.egyptair.com.eg) Hub: Cairo International Airport, Cairo.
Emirates (airline code EK; in Beirut x01-739 042;
www.emirates.com) Hub: Dubai Airport, Dubai.
Gulf Air (airline code GF; in Beirut x01-323 332; www
.gulfairco.com) Hub: Bahrain Airport, Bahrain.
Lufthansa (airline code LH; in Beirut x01-347 006;
www.lufthansa.com) Hub: Frankfurt Airport, Frankfurt.
Malaysia Airlines (airline code MH; in Beirut x01-741
344; www.mas.com.my) Hub: Sepang International, Kuala
Lumpur.
Middle East Airlines (airline code ME; Map p422; in
Beirut x01-737 000; www.mea.com.lb) Hub: Beirut
International Airport, Beirut.
Royal Jordanian Airline (airline code RJ; in Beirut x01379 990; www.rja.com.jo) Hub: Queen Alia Airport, Amman.
Syrian Arab Airlines (airline code RB; in Beirut
x01-375 632; www.syrian-airlines.com) Hub: Damascus
Airport, Damascus.
Turkish Airlines (airline code TK; in Beirut x01-741 391;
www.turkishairlines.com) Hub: Ataturk Airport, stanbul.
Airline tickets bought in Lebanon are expensive. Examples of return flights (not
including tax) to neighbouring countries:
Amman (US$210), Cairo (US$246), stanbul
(US$185) and Larnaca in Cyprus (US$95).
MEA does not fly currently to Baghdad
(Iraq), Damascus (Syria), Tehran (Iran) and
Tripoli (Libya).
(MEA; Map p422; in Beirut x01-622 225; www.mea.com

.lb), has an extensive network including fly-
Land
ing from Beirut to and from Australia, Europe and the Middle East. The airline has a
pretty good safety record.
Several airlines have their offices in the Gefinor Center in Ras Beirut including MEA.
The only way into Lebanon by land is

through Syria; the border with Israel is
closed and will be for the foreseeable future.
You cant get a visa for Syria in Lebanon, but
you can at the border crossings (see Visas
at the Border, p553 for details). There is no
departure tax when leaving by land.
DEPARTURE TAX
Airline passengers departing from Beirut
International Airport must pay a steep
US$37/50 for economy/business class. Its
usually included in the ticket price, but
check.
Tripoli to Lattakia) which are open all year.

Visas can be obtained at these Lebanese/
Syrian border crossings.
Crossing the borders is pretty quick and
painless; youll need to fill out an entry and
exit form for each country (taking about 10
minutes), hand over your yellow entry card
(which you received on entering the country)
and provide details of your accommodation
in either country. Ensure you have a reservation at a hotel with the name and number at
hand; they may well check. Otherwise you
may be charged business visa rates.
If coming from Syria to Lebanon you
deal with Lebanese border immigration (x08-
620 016/620 017; 1-month tourist/2-day business visa free,

15-day/1-month business visa LL25,000/50,000; h24hr).
Note that payment can only be made in

Lebanese pounds, and that immigration allows tourists to spend a maximum of four
days in Syria on a single-entry visa (as opposed to multiple entry).
Crossing from Lebanon to Syria, Syrian
border immigration (x 011-391 4029/391 4208;
h24hr) issues a two-week tourist visa (but
up to one month is permitted) for citizens
of Australia and New Zealand (US$30), Ireland (US$50), France, Italy, Spain and the
Netherlands (US$52); Germany (US$28);
and the US (US$16).
To/From Turkey
The Turkish embassy in Beirut will only

issue visas to Lebanese nationals. However,
Western nationals wanting to travel from
Lebanon to Turkey will have no trouble obtaining a Turkish visa at the SyrianTurkish
border (or at Turkeys international airports). Depending on your nationality, they
cost US$20 to US$45.
BORDER CROSSINGS
Syria
There are four places in Lebanon where you

can cross the border with Syria: at Masnaa
(for Damascus), Abboudiye (for Aleppo),
Al-Qaa (at the northern end of the Bekaa
Valley) and Aarida (on the coastal road from
BUS & SERVICE TAXI
Buses to Syria from Beirut leave from the

Charles Helou bus station (Map pp418-19). Beirut
Pullman Terminal office (Map pp418-19; x573 322;
h24hr) sells tickets. The buses arent luxurious, but theyre clean and have allocated
(numbered) seats. Reservations are not
necessary in winter, but in summer theyre
wise; book at least one day in advance.
For Syria, buses go to Damascus (LL7500,
three to four hours, every hour from 6am
to 8pm daily), Aleppo (Halab; LL11,000,
6 hours, every 30 minutes from 7am to
1.30am) and Lattakia (LL9000, four hours,
LEBANON
LEBANON
458 T R A N S P O R T I N L E B A N O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
three times a day at 10.30am, 2.30pm and

5.30pm). These services run every day of the
week. For Turkey, buses travel to stanbul
(LL26,000, 36 hours, 10.30pm daily), and
for Egypt, to Cairo (LL60,000, 24 hours,
3am Friday and Sunday). All buses go via
Damascus and involve a change of bus in
each country (on to local services).
A service taxi from Charles Helou will
cost you US$10 to Damascus (2 hours) and
US$12 to Aleppo (five hours). Dont worry
about finding a seat in one of these the Syrian drivers are famous for pouncing on potential customers the minute they enter the
bus station! Service taxis also go to Amman
in Jordan (US$25, five hours, 10 daily).
Tripoli (in northern Lebanon) also has
an international bus service. Kotob (Map p438;
x06-444 986) buses leave for Aleppo in Syria
(LL7500, almost five hours, every hour from
9am to 1pm) and to Lattakia (LL7500, two
hours, 3pm). They go to Damascus (LL10,000,
three hours) via Beirut on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Daily Transtour (Map p438;
x06-445 514; Rue Mohammed Karameh, Tripoli) buses
leave for Aleppo (LL8000, five hours, every
30 minutes) from 8.30am to 11pm via Homs
(LL5000, 2 hours). There are two Transtour services daily to Damascus (LL8000, 4
hours), leaving at 5am and 3pm.
Kotob also go to Amman in Jordan
(LL37,500, five to seven hours). Transtour
runs one daily bus at 11pm to stanbul in
Turkey (LL75,000, 32 hours) as well as Sunday services (at 9am and 11pm) to about 10
other destinations in Turkey and Eastern
Europe (ask at the office), a daily bus at 5am
to Amman (LL38,000, eight hours) and a
bus every Sunday at 5am to Cairo, Egypt
(LL98,000, 32 to 36 hours).
Service taxis from Tripoli to Syria travel
to Homs (LL7500), to Hama (LL9000) and
to Aleppo (LL15,000). They leave when
full from Saahat et-Tall. Service taxis from
Tripoli dont go to Damascus.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
If youre bringing your car into Lebanon,

you must have an International Driving
Permit and a carnet de passage (see p662).
Note also that a steep charge (payable in
cash) is levied for foreign-registered vehicles at the border (refundable on departure).
There are petrol stations on both sides of
the border (fill up in Syria by preference;
its cheaper) as well as quite good garages

that can provide spares and repairs. At the
time of writing, diesel vehicles were banned
from entering Lebanon; check for the latest
information with your embassy before setting off. For information on road rules etc
see opposite.
Sea
There is no regular public sea transportation from Lebanon. Boats connect Beirut
to other countries but the majority are
middle-market cruise ships operating during summer months only (mid-March to
end of October). You may be able to get
a passage with them. For more information and schedules contact Aeolus Travel (Map
pp418-19; x564 666; www.aeoloslb.com; Rue Pasteur,
Rmeil; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat). Its lo-
cated opposite the Subaru car showroom.

The company works with Louis Cruise
Lines, Salamis Lines, Silver Sea and Aida
Cruises, which generally follow the route:
BeirutLimassol (Cyprus)Greek Islands
LimassolBeirut. It takes between nine and
12 hours from Beirut to Limassol and prices
(usually for two-person packages) include a
three-star cabin and full board. Discounts of
between 10% and 50% are available either for
advance or last-minute bookings. In the peak
season (July to August) prices are highest. At
present there are no boats to Italy, Egypt or
Turkey (go first to Cyprus and change).
GETTING AROUND
There are no air services or trains operating
within Lebanon, but the country is so small
(you can drive from one end to the other in
half a day) that you dont really need them.
Additionally the bus, minibus and service
taxi network is extensive, reasonably efficient and cheap.
Bicycle
Lebanons steep terrain and the state of many
urban roads demand a rugged, all-terraintype bicycle. There are no designated bike
lanes or routes and cars treat bicycles with
contempt and derision. Beware of travelling
in summer months, when heat exhaustion is
a real danger. Other hazards and annoyances
include the heavily congested roads and the
pure anarchy on them (see opposite). See
also p455 and p423 for further information
and for bike hire and purchase.
T R A N S P O R T I N L E B A N O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d 461
Bus
HIRE
Buses travel between Beirut and all of Lebanons major towns. There are three main
bus pick-up and drop-off points in Beirut:
Charles Helou bus station (Map pp418-19) Just east of
Most of the big rental agencies are in Beirut.

If you can afford one, a hired car is probably the best way to see some of Lebanons
most beautiful scenery. To reduce the cost,
try and find a small group.
To hire a car in Lebanon, drivers must
be over 21 years old (in some places, over
23), have been in possession of a licence for
at least three years, have adequate insurance cover and own a credit card or have a
large amount of cash (to cover the deposit).
You cant take hired cars over the border
to Syria.
Car hire starts at approximately US$25
to US$30 per day for a Renault Clio, rising to US$500 per day for a Porsche Boxer
convertible. For car hire up to three days,
theres a mileage limit of 150km per day;
for three days or more its usually unlimited. Drivers and guides both cost from
US$20 per day extra (but note that you
must pay for their accommodation, and
food is expected).
In the low season and if hiring a car for
five days or more, discounts of up to 40%
are sometimes available. During the high
season (15 June to 15 September, Christmas, Easter and the major Lebanese holidays) cars can be hard to come by; reserve
at least two weeks in advance.
Car hire companies in Beirut, some of
which have branches open 24 hours at the
airport, include the following:
Avis (Map pp418-19; x01-363 848; www.avis.com
downtown, for destinations north of Beirut (including Syria).

Cola transport hub (Map pp418-19) In fact a bustling intersection. Generally serves the south, and the Bekaa Valley.
Dawra transport hub Lying east of Beirut and covering
the same destinations as Charles Helou, its usually a port
of call in and out of the city.
Charles Helou is the only formal station

and is divided into three signposted zones:
Zone A For buses to Syria.
Zone B For buses servicing Beirut (where the route starts
or finishes at Charles Helou).
Zone C For express buses to Jounieh, Byblos and Tripoli.

Zones A and C have ticket offices where you
can buy tickets for your journey. In the other
stations (Cola and Dawra) ask any driver for
your bus (if they dont find you first).
Some buses in Lebanon are poorly maintained and go too fast; accidents do happen.
In general, however, theyre reasonably safe,
comfortable and reliable and are very cheap
by Lebanese standards. The networks are extensive. Theres just one class and bus passes
are not available. A typical journey from
Beirut to Tripoli (85km north of Beirut)
costs LL2000, ie about LL24 a kilometre.
Theres also a growing number of independently owned microbuses which cover
the same routes but are slightly more expensive that the regular buses, but theyre
comfortable and frequent. Tickets are
bought on the microbuses.
See the relevant town and city sections for
further details about getting there by bus.
Car & Motorcycle

You should think carefully before deciding to
drive in Lebanon (see Road Hazards, p462).
DRIVING LICENCE
In theory, you require an International Driving Permit (IDP), but in practice a home
driving licence should suffice for most nationalities. Note that, if you plan to drive
into Lebanon, you will need an IDP.
FUEL & SPARE PARTS
Petrol (including unleaded) and spare parts

for most makes of car are easily available.
.lb; Kurban Tours, Phoenicia Intercontinental, Rue Fakhr

ed-Dine, Minet el-Hosn, Beirut; h9am-6pm)
Budget Rent a Car (Map pp418-19; x01-740 741;
www.budget-rental.com; Dunes Shopping Center, Rue
Verdun, Verdun, Beirut; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
City Car (Map p422; x01-803 308; www.citycar.com
.lb; Al-Oraifi Bldg, Rue Kalaa, Ras Beirut; h8am-7pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
Europcar Ain al-Mreisse (Map pp418-19; x01-363 636;
www.lenacar.com; Nsouli Bldg, Rue Ain al-Mreisse, Ain
al-Mreisse, Beirut; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat); airport branch
(x01-629 888; h24hr)
INSURANCE
Though prices may include insurance, you

may still be liable for the first US$300 or
more in case of damage; check. Though
theres an option to pay for extra cover,
even that probably wont save you much in
the long run.
LEBANON
LEBANON
460 T R A N S P O R T I N L E B A N O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d
ROAD HAZARDS
Despite the attempts of traffic police to

organise the flow of cars, very few drivers follow road regulations. Many Lebanese purchase their licences for as little
as US$100. Some intersections in Beirut
do have traffic lights, but they are usually
treated as give-way signs at best. Look out
also for road-mending projects (which are
often unmarked).
In the cities, watch the service taxis that
stop without warning in the middle of the
road to let passengers in or out. On the
highways, lanes are ignored.
In the mountains many roads are narrow, with hairpin bends, and its not unusual for drivers to recklessly overtake on
hidden bends.
Keep an eye out for pedestrians, who
often walk in the middle of the roads or
streets or haphazardly cross highways and
roads. Accidents are frequent.
In the winter (particularly from December
to February) snow on the higher roads (such
as from Masnah to Syria) can cause problems, and some roads (such as from Bcharr
to the Cedars) are closed from November to
mid-June. Chains can be rented from garages or ski resorts (LL10,000 per day).
For travellers considering day trips from

Beirut, hiring them is not a bad option, as
they are comfortable, solid in case of accidents and have seat belts, a rare thing in
Lebanon.
Most routes around Lebanese towns and
cities are covered by service taxis, or shared
taxis (see p672). You can hail them at any
point on their route and also get out wherever you wish by saying anzil huun (drop
me off here). Be sure to ask servees? before
getting in as (if its an empty car) the driver
may try to charge you a private taxi fare.
The fixed fare for service taxis for routes
around towns is generally LL1000, and to
outlying parts LL2000. Outside towns, the
fares range from LL2000 to LL8000, depending on the destination. Try to pay at
the earliest opportunity during your trip
and keep some LL1000 notes handy for
this.
If you do want to engage the car as a private taxi, make sure the driver understands
exactly where you want to go and negotiate
the fare before you get in (fares are suggested in relevant sections). If youre planning several journeys, it may be cheaper to
hire a car for a half or full day. Youll need
to negotiate hard; expect to pay around
US$50 for a whole day.
ROAD RULES
None! In fact the first rule of driving in Lebanon is: forget rules. Officially, the Lebanese
system is based on French road law, which
includes the priority from the right rule (in
which oncoming traffic has to give way to
traffic coming from the right except on major
highways). Dont be tempted to drink, however. Breathalysers are sometimes used in the
event of an accident, and if over the limit you
may get yourself into serious trouble. Dont
forget also that you must stop at military
checkpoints. Driving is on the right.
Local Transport
BUS
Some towns, including Beirut, have both

government and privately owned buses that
operate a hail and ride system. Fares are
generally LL500 for all except the most distant destinations.
TAXI & SERVICE TAXI
Taxis are usually elderly Mercedes with red

licence plates and a taxi sign on the roof.
Tours
Several Lebanese operators organise tours
within Lebanon, and to Syria and Jordan
from Lebanon. They cover most of Lebanons highlights, are reasonably priced and
usually include lunch, guide (in English or
French), entrance fees and pick-up/drop-off
at your hotel, and are comfortable (transport is in air-con coaches or minibuses).
A day trip costs from US$30 per person
for shorter trips and US$50 to US$60 for
longer trips.
Tour operators:
Kurban Tours (Map pp418-19; x01-363 848; www
.kurbantravel.com; Phoenicia Intercontinental, Minet

al-Hosn; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Nakhal (x01-382 444; www.nakhal.com; Sami as-Solh
St, Ghorayeb Bldg; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat)
Lies around 550m south of the Law Courts on Sami
as-Solh St.
Tania Travel (Map p422; x01-739 679; www.tania
travel.com; Rue Sidani, Hamra; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
On the 1st floor opposite the old Jeanne dArc
theatre.
463
LEBANON
LEBANON
Lonely Planet Publications

462 T R A N S P O R T I N L E B A N O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d
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Cup of coffee LL1500

Internet connection per hour LL3000

Post-Independence & Civil War

Area Administered by Syria

ISRAEL & THE

Lebanon emerged with Syria from the

Souvenir T-shirt LL5000

Bottle of local beer in bar/restaurant

Litre of bottled water LL600

LONELY PLANET INDEX

Average museum admission LL5000

One-minute phone call to the UK

Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate

CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

Baalbek (p451) Arguably the Middle Easts

Israeli Withdrawal & Civil War Again

and SLA control. Over the next couple of

Peace& War with Israel Again

on some 80 villages in southern Lebanon,

years, members opposed to Syrian influence outnumbered the pro-Syrians. Fouad

The National Psyche

Education is highly valued by both men

other multiaward winner is the LebanesePalestinian poet, Mahmoud Darwish.

BERNARD KHOURY BEIRUTS

Theatre & Dance

Though Lebanon is one of the smallest

geographical areas run almost parallel to

Lebanon is an important migratory staging

Trees are poems that the earth writes

FOOD & DRINK

LEBANONS GOLDEN GRAPES

Fresh ingredients, including numerous types of fruit, vegetables and pulses,

x01 / pop 1,251,739

Beirut is Lebanons heart and soul as well

Beirut has a good range of foreign-language

Jeanne dArc, Hamra; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm

Abdel Aziz, Ras Beirut; per 30min LL1500; h11am-2am)

load under/over 4.5kg LL3000/4500, detergent free, dryer

Hotel and dry cleaners can do laundry, but

Rue Bechara el-Khoury

Claiming the quickest connections in town, its also friendly

Rue Emile Edd

Rue Fakhr ed-D

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ave Abdallah Yafi

To Beit Mary (17km);

x374 374; Rue du Caire, Ras Beirut; h8am-5pm

building as you enter the AUBMC down Rue du Caire. The

-travel.net; Rue Makhoul, Ras Beirut) A student travel

Main post office (Map pp418-19; x629 629; Rue Riad

There are ATMs all over the city.

Hamra; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat). One of the very few

Visas extensions can be obtained on the 2nd

side the Ministry of Health in Beirut. Tourist

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

nationalmuseum.com; cnr Rue de Damas & Ave Abdallah

impressive, but not overwhelming, collection

The AUB museum (Map p422; x340 549; ddc.aub.edu

The exhibitions of contemporary Lebanese

only when there are exhibitions scheduled

Beirut Central District