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Italian Cuisine

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page Italian Cuisine

Italian Cuisine

Table of Contents
Appetizers Caponata Fritto Misto Artichokes Stuffed with Pancetta and Parsley Quick Cioppino Sicilian Olive Salad Chicken and Escarole Soup with Fennel Crispy Eggplant Fritters with Smoked Mozzarella Italian Stuffed Mushrooms Individual Sausage, Tomato, and Artichoke-Heart Pizzas Peach and Arugula Salad Poultry & Seafood Italian Chicken with Mushroom-and-Wine Sauce Prosciutto, Fried Egg, and Parmesan on Country Bread Chicken Gabriella Baked Eggplant Omelet Roast Chicken with Pancetta and Olives Spaghetti with Mussels Skillet Poached Eggs with Prosciutto Oil-Poached Swordfish with White Corn, Guanciale and Chive Oil Italian Tuna and Shaved Fennel Sandwich with Black Olive Paste Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon, and Ginger Meats Grilled Italian Burgers Italian Sausage Meatball Heroes Grilled Italian Sausage with Warm Pepper and Onion Salad Grilled Lemon-Parsley Veal Chop Italian Vegetable Stew Grilled Pizza with Spicy Italian Sausage Italian Meat Loaf Prosciutto, Mozzarella, and Olive Sandwiches on Parmesan Focaccia Sausage, Salami, and Mozzarella Tart Tuscan Beef Stew with Polenta Vegetarian Sicilian Pasta with Eggplant Stuffed Italian Eggplant Trenette with Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Escarole-Stuffed Pizza Orecchiette with Salsa Cruda and Ricotta Lemon Pine Nut Tagliatelle Gnocchi with Tomato, Basil, and Olives Pasta with Peas, Cream, Parsley, and Mint Polenta and Vegetables with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce Linguine with Leeks, Radicchio, and Walnut Pesto

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Italian Cuisine

Desserts Italian Almond Cookies Italian Fig Cookies Italian Fruitcakes with Frangelico Chocolate Sauce Sfratti Hazelnut Espresso Shortbread Cookies Pistachio and Almond Cake with Orange Salad Vanilla Panna Cotta with Pear Jam Walnut Cake with Coffee-Mascarpone Cream Mascarpone Cheesecake with Balsamic Strawberries Mixed Berry Tiramisu French Cuisine Appetizers Swiss Chard Ravioli Wild Mushroom and Gruyre Tart with Fresh Herb Salad Stuffed Peppers Goat Cheese and Herb Dip Anchoiade Salmon Rillettes Pizza with Fontina, Potatoes, and Tapenade Chanterelle Rillettes Ham, Leek, and Three-Cheese Quiche Gougres Poultry & Seafood Chicken Breasts Provenal Chicken Bouillabaisse Grilled Chicken with Mustard and Red Pepper Chicken in Riesling Classic Coq au Vin Classic Sole Meunire Salmon Paillards with Lettuce and Pea Salad Poached Salt Cod Seared Cumin Sea Scallops with Cauliflower and Leeks Creamy Shellfish and Root Vegetable Stew Meats Short Ribs Provenale Oxtail Bourguinonne Beef Cheeks Braised in Red Wine with Orange Zest Blade Steaks with Mushroom-Madeira Sauce Beef Braised in Red Wine Pot-au-Feu Croques-Monsieur Sliced Baked Ham with Camembert Sauce Roasted Pork Chops with Hard Cider Jus Veal Cordon Bleu

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Italian Cuisine

Vegetarian Cantal Cheese Tart Mushroom and Fontina Quiche Broccoli Garlic Quiche Oven-Dried Tomato Tart with Goat Cheese and Black Olives Pasta Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Sun-Dried Tomatoes Spaghetti with Mushrooms, Zucchini, and Tarragon Potato Pizza Swiss Chard, Raisin, and Pine Nut Tart Gruyre Fondue with Caramelized Shallots Ratatouille Desserts French Macaroons with Raspberry-Rose Buttercream Baked French Toast French Apple-Almond Tart French Apple Cake Lemon Custards with Lemon Verbena Walnut Crepes with Raspberries and Dried Figs Beaumes-de-Venise Cake with Grapes Coffee-Caramel Crme Brle Peanut Dacquoise with Peanut Butter Mousse Orange-Blossom-Honey Madeleines

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Italian Cuisine

Introduction
There is no question that Italian and French cuisines are popular around the world. While an Italian cuisine combines the health benefits of the Mediterranean, French cuisine is just as healthful. There can be no doubt that these cuisines offer the most favored dishes around the world. French cuisine is more cream based and Italian cuisine is almost exclusively olive oil based. Ironically, the Italians find the French cuisine to be heavier because of the creamy textures and the French find the Italian cuisine to be heavier because of its fried nature. Traditionally, French cuisine has many stewed dishes which are not common in the Italian cuisine. Both of the cuisines have deep history and distinct methods of cooking. They have strong flavors and they both include health benefits when you choose the correct portion size for each dish. Choose these foods to add variety to your meal plan. This will help you stay focused on your weight loss track and keep things exciting. Whatever be your taste preference, we have a cookbook that will satisfy you. Scroll down to find authentic Italian and French dishes and cook it up. With the help of this book you will be able to explore your culinary skills. These easy to follow guidelines on how to prepare even the most complicated French dish that will have your friends and family asking for more. Develop you cooking talent in just few hours.

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Italian Cuisine

Italian Cuisine

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Italian Cuisine

Caponata
yield: Makes 3 to 4 cups (antipasto or side dish) active time: 45 min total time: 9 hr The levels of sweet and sour in caponata vary from household to household. In this version, the onions and celery are caramelized for incredible depth of flavorwhich improves over time

preparation
indgredients
2 lb small Italian eggplants (about 4) 1 tablespoon kosher salt or 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup chopped onion (1 medium) 4 medium celery ribs, cut crosswise into very thin 1/3 cup large green Sicilian olives (1 3/4 oz), pitted and coarsely chopped 1 3/4 oz Italian capers packed in salt (1/3 cup), rinsed well 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste 1/3 cup white-wine vinegar 1 (14- to 15-oz) can whole tomatoes in juice, drained and chopped (1 cup)
Peel eggplants, leaving some strips of peel, then cut into 1-inch cubes and spread on half of a kitchen towel. Sprinkle eggplant with salt, then cover with other half of towel and weight with a baking sheet topped with 2 or 3 large cans for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 1/2 cup oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then cook onion, stirring, until pale golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Add celery and cook, stirring, until onion and celery are deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add olives, capers, and 2 tablespoons sugar and cook, stirring, 2 minutes, then stir in vinegar and tomatoes. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. If sauce is very acidic, add 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar (to taste). Transfer to a bowl and keep warm, covered. Rinse eggplant in a colander under running water, then squeeze dry in small handfuls. Heat remaining cup oil in cleaned skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then fry eggplant in 2 batches, turning occasionally with tongs, until tender and browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes per batch. Transfer as cooked to paper towels to drain, then transfer to a large shallow serving dish in an even layer. Spoon sauce on top, spreading evenly, and let stand, covered with a kitchen towel, at room temperature, at least 8 hours (for flavors to develop). Stir before serving.
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Italian Cuisine

Fritto Misto
yield: Makes 6 servings

indgredients
About 6 cups vegetable or canola oil for frying 2 cups all-purpose flour 18 fresh smelts or 16 fresh sardines, cleaned, heads removed 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and butterflied 1 pound sea scallops 1 pound fresh small squid, cleaned, bodies sliced into thin rings, tentacles reserved Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 lemons, cut into wedges Italian Tartar Sauce
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preparation
In large shallow skillet over moderately high heat, heat 3 inches of oil until thermometer registers 350F. Transfer flour to large plate. Sprinkle all seafood liberally with salt and pepper. Working in batches and returning oil to 350F between batches, dredge seafood in flour, shaking to remove excess, and fry until golden and cooked through, about 20 seconds per side for whole fish and shrimp, 15 seconds per side for scallops and calamari. Using slotted spoon, remove as done and drain on paper towellined plate. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve immediately with tartar sauce.

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Italian Cuisine

Artichokes Stuffed with Pancetta and Parsley


yield: (Carciofi Ritti) The best artichokes in Tuscany are the small purple ones that come from the area around Grosseto, a southern city near the sea. But the variety is endless: big ones, little ones, violet ones; served boiled, steamed, even raw. In this dish, which is an interpretation of a classic Florentine recipe, artichokes are filled with a savory mixture of pancetta and parsley, drizzled with olive oil, and braised.

preparation
indgredients
2 lemons, halved 4 large artichokes 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 ounces pancetta,* finely chopped 1/2 cup minced fresh Italian parsley 2/3 cup water

Squeeze juice from 1 lemon into large bowl of cold water; add 2 lemon halves. Cut stem off 1 artichoke; cut stem into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Place rounds in lemon water. Starting at base of artichoke, bend outer leaves back; snap off where leaves break naturally, leaving tender yellow-green leaves attached. Using vegetable peeler, trim outside of base until no dark green areas remain. Rub cut surfaces with remaining lemon halves. Cut off top half of artichoke. Pull out purpletipped leaves from center. Using spoon, scoop out fibrous choke. Place artichoke in lemon water. Repeat with remaining artichokes. Drain artichokes and stems. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add artichokes and stem rounds. Cook until artichokes are golden, about 4 minutes per side. Remove from heat. Transfer stem rounds to small bowl. Mix pancetta and parsley in bowl; spoon into artichokes. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over artichokes in skillet. Add 2/3 cup water; bring to boil. Cover; cook artichokes over medium-low heat until cooking liquid is reduced by about half, about 25 minutes. Add stem rounds; cook about 2 minutes. Serve artichokes surrounded by stem rounds and cooking liquid. *Pancetta, Italian bacon cured in salt, is available at Italian markets and some specialty foods stores.

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Italian Cuisine

Quick Cioppino
yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 40 minutes total time: 40 minutes Lynn Brown of Houston, Texas, writes: For me, its fun to see how much I can simplify or revise a recipe to make it my own. Thats what Ive done with the soup here (its one of my favorite things to make). And the cioppino came from an old magazine, but Ive changed a few things, plus I save time with canned tomatoes and peeled shrimp.

indgredients
3 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups finely chopped onions 2 large garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 1 2/3 cups canned crushed tomatoes in puree (from one 28ounce can) 2 8-ounce bottles clam juice 3/4 cup dry white wine 12 ounces halibut fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/2 pound uncooked peeled deveined medium shrimp 1/2 pound bay scallops 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley, divided

preparation
Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add next 4 ingredients; saut 6 minutes. Add tomatoes, clam juice, and wine; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer 18 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add all seafood and 2 tablespoons parsley. Simmer until seafood is opaque in center, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and sprinkle with parsley.

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Italian Cuisine

Sicilian Olive Salad


yield: Serves 6 to 8 as an antipasto This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires addtional resting time.

preparation
indgredients
2 1/2 cups large green olives (about 1 pound) 3 celery ribs 1 carrot 1 small red onion 1 garlic clove 1/2 cup drained caperberries 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a large sieve rinse olives and drain well. Thinly slice celery, carrot, onion, and garlic and in a bowl stir together with remaining ingredients. Marinate salad, covered and chilled, at least 1 day and up to 3 days. Bring salad to room temperature before serving.

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Italian Cuisine

Chicken and Escarole Soup with Fennel


yield: Makes 6 main-course servings active time: 25 minutes total time: 40 Minutes

indgredients
1/4 cup olive oil 1 1/2 pounds skinless boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon dried oregano 2 cups chopped onions 4 celery stalks, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 14- to 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice 8 cups low-salt chicken broth 1 head of escarole, cut into wide strips Grated Pecorino Romano cheese

preparation
Heat oil in large pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and oregano. Mix in onions, celery, garlic, and fennel seeds. Saut until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Stir in tomatoes. Add broth; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until vegetables and chicken are tender, about 15 minutes. Add escarole; simmer until wilted, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls. Serve, passing cheese separately.

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Italian Cuisine

Crispy Eggplant Fritters with Smoked Mozzarella


yield: Makes about 20 fritters

indgredients
2 large eggplants (2 pounds total) 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided Olive oil (for brushing and frying) 2 large eggs 3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 1 1/4 cups plain dry breadcrumbs, divided 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 1/2 tablespoons all purpose flour 4 ounces smoked mozzarella cheese,* cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 20 cubes) *Also called mozzarella affumicata; available at some specialty foods stores and at cheese shops.

preparation

Preheat oven to 350F. Cut eggplants crosswise into 1/2-inchthick slices. Place on layers of paper towels. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt; let stand 30 minutes. Brush 2 large baking sheets with oil. Pat eggplant dry; arrange in single layer on prepared sheets. Brush lightly with oil. Bake until eggplant is tender and dry, about 1 hour. Cool slightly; chop coarsely. Whisk 1 egg, grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup breadcrumbs, parsley, thyme, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Stir in chopped eggplant (mixture will be soft). Spread 1 cup breadcrumbs on plate. Whisk 1 egg and flour in another bowl. Press and shape eggplant mixture into 1 1/4 -inch-diameter balls. Press 1 piece smoked mozzarella into center of each ball, making sure eggplant mixture covers cheese. Dip balls, 1 at a time, into egg batter; roll in breadcrumbs to coat. Pour enough oil into large skillet to reach depth of 1/4 inch; heat over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add balls to skillet; saut until browned, turning often, about 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve.
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Italian Cuisine

Italian Stuffed Mushrooms


yield: Makes 24

indgredients
2 tablespoons olive oil 24 large (about 2-inch-diameter) mushrooms, stems removed and chopped, caps reserved 1/2 cup chopped fresh fennel bulb 1/4 cup chopped drained oilpacked sun-dried tomatoes 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1/2 cup grated Fontina cheese or crumbled Gorgonzola cheese 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup (packed) chopped fresh basil 1 large egg Additional olive oil

preparation
Preheat oven to 350F. Brush 15x10x2-inch glass baking dish with oil. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add chopped mushroom stems, fennel, tomatoes, and garlic. Saut until stems and fennel are tender and beginning to brown, about 12 minutes; transfer to medium bowl. Cool 10 minutes. Mix in cheeses, then basil. Season filling to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in egg. Arrange mushroom caps in prepared dish, cavity side up. Brush mushroom cavities lightly with additional oil. Mound filling in mushroom cavities, pressing to adhere. Bake until mushrooms are tender and filling is heated through, about 25 minutes, and serve.

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Italian Cuisine

Individual Sausage, Tomato, and Artichoke-Heart Pizzas


yield: Makes 2 servings time: Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

indgredients
For the crust 1 1/2 cups unbleached allpurpose flour 1 1/4 teaspoon (half of a 1/4ounce package) fast-acting yeast 1/2 cup hot water (130F.) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 pound hot Italian sausage, casing discarded and the sausage chopped 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1 large garlic clove, or to taste, minced 1/2 teaspoon dried organo, crumbled 1/2 teaspoon dried basil, crumbled yellow cornmeal for sprinkling the baking sheet a 14-ounce can Italian tomatoes, drained, chopped fine, and drained well again in a colander a 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed, and patted dry 1/2 cup coarsely grated mozzarella 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan

preparation

Make the crust: In a food processor combine 1/2 cup of the flour and the yeast, with the motor running add the water, and turn the motor off. Add the oil, the sugar, the salt, and the remaining 1 cup flour, blend the mixture until it forms a ball, and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough 8 to 10 times, form it into a ball, and let it rest while making the sausage mixture. In a small heavy skillet cook the sausage over moderate heat, stirring, until it is cooked through, transfer it with a slotted spoon to a bowl, and discard all but 1 tablespoons of the fat remaining in the skillet. In the fat cook the onion, the garlic, the organo, the basil, and salt and pepper to taste over moderately low heat, stirring, until the onion is soft and transfer the onion mixture to the bowl. Halve the dough, form each half into a ball, and stretch each ball into 7-inch round, making the rounds slightly thicker around the edges. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet (preferably black steel, for a crisper crust), oiled and sprinkled lightly with the cornmeal, top the rounds evenly with the sausage mixture, the tomatoes, the artichoke hearts, the mozzarella, the Parmesan, and salt and pepper to taste, and bake the pizzas on the bottom rack of a preheated 500F. oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the crusts are golden brown.
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Italian Cuisine

Peach and Arugula Salad


yield: Makes 8 servings Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 40 min

indgredients
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt (preferably sea salt) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 firm-ripe peaches (1 1/2 lb total) 24 thin slices pancetta (Italian unsmoked cured bacon; 1 1/4 lb) 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 oz baby arugula (6 cups) 2 1/2 oz finely crumbled ricotta salata (1/2 cup) Coarsely ground black pepper to taste

preparation
Whisk together vinegar, juice, and salt, then add extravirgin oil in a stream, whisking until emulsified. Cut an X in bottom of each peach and immerse in boiling water 15 seconds, then transfer to a bowl of ice water. Peel peaches and cut each into 6 wedges, then unroll pancetta slices and wrap one slice around each wedge, overlapping ends of pancetta. Heat remaining oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook peaches in 2 batches, turning over occasionally with tongs, until pancetta is browned on all sides and cooked through, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate and keep warm, covered loosely with foil. Divide arugula and warm pancetta-wrapped peaches among 8 salad plates. Drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with ricotta salata and pepper. Serve immediately.
Cooks notes: Dressing can be made 1 hour ahead and kept, covered, at room temperature. Peaches can be peeled, tossed with an additional teaspoon lemon juice, and wrapped with pancetta 1 hour ahead. Keep chilled, covered with plastic wrap. *Available at Italian markets, cheese shops, and specialty foods shops.

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Poultry & Seafood

Italian Cuisine

Italian Chicken with Mushroom-and-Wine Sauce


yield: Makes 6 servings

indgredients
6 large chicken breast halves with skin and bones 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound mushrooms, thickly sliced 2 cups chopped onions 1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup canned low-salt chicken broth 1 1.42-ounce package spaghetti sauce seasoning mix

preparation

Preheat oven to 350F. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add 3 chicken breasts, skin side down; saut until skin is brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer chicken, skin side up, to 15x10x2-inch glass baking dish. Repeat with remaining chicken. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, onions and bell pepper. Saut until vegetables are tender and mushrooms begin to brown, about 12 minutes. Add wine; boil 2 minutes. Add broth and seasoning mix and bring to boil. Pour sauce over chicken. Cover dish with foil. Bake chicken 25 minutes. Uncover and bake until chicken is cooked through and sauce thickens, about 15 minutes longer.

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Italian Cuisine

Prosciutto, Fried Egg, and Parmesan on Country Bread


yield: Makes 2 servings

indgredients
2 slices Tuscan, ciabatta, or other crusty bread 4 to 6 thin slices Parmesan 2 thin slices prosciutto 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 eggs (preferably organic) 4 salted anchovy fillets, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced 1 handful fresh baby spinach 1 squeeze fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

preparation
Preheat broiler, with the tray set at the lowest position. Broil the bread on one side until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and divide the cheese and prosciutto evenly on the untoasted sides. Return to broiler and cook, open-faced, until the prosciutto is crispy and the cheese has begun to melt, about 1 minute. Turn off broiler, leaving the sandwiches inside to stay warm. In a frying pan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter, then fry the eggs to the desired doneness. Remove the sandwiches and top each with an egg. Add the remaining butter to the pan and saut the anchovies and garlic over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the garlic begins to soften. Add the spinach and cook until it wilts, then add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Spoon over the sandwiches and serve. Suggestions for the kids Omit the anchovies, garlic, spinach, and lemon juice. Top with another slice of toast before serving. And if the prosciutto and Parmesan are too sharp, replace them with honey-baked ham and white cheddar.

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Italian Cuisine

Chicken Gabriella
yield: Serves 4

indgredients
1 (3 1/2-to 4-pound) chicken, skinned and cut into small (about 3-inch) pieces, with bone, thighs, and wings left whole (ask your butcher to do this for you or use kitchen shears) 2 onions, chopped Needles from 4 sprigs fresh rosemary (about 1/4 cup), finely chopped 5 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped About 1.4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio 1 lemon

preparation

Put the chicken pieces in a 12-inch skillet (preferably nonstick) with a lid, along with the chopped onions, rosemary, and sage. Stir well to coat the chicken with the onion and herbs. Add enough olive oil to coat all of the chicken pieces, but not so much that it pools in the skillet. Sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Set the skillet over medium heat. Cook until the onions are very soft and the chicken and onions have turned golden brown, about 20 minutes. If the onion begins to brown too fast, turn down the heat. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender, about 20 minutes. Squeeze the lemon over, taste for salt and pepper, and serve.

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Italian Cuisine

Baked Eggplant Omelet


yield: Serves 6 active time: 45 min total time: 3 hr

indgredients

preparation
Peel eggplant and cut lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle sea salt over slices and arrange in 2 even stacks in a shallow dish. Put a flat dish on top of eggplant and weight with 1-lb can 2 hours. Rinse salt from eggplant under running water and pat slices dry between double layers of paper towel. Preheat oven to 350F. Heat oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat. Saut eggplant in batches of 3 or 4 slices until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Drain as sauted on brown paper or paper towels. Pour off oil from skillet and wipe, leaving a light coating. Cover bottom of skillet with half of eggplant, overlapping slightly, and make another layer with remaining eggplant. Whisk together eggs and cheese in a bowl and stir together tomato paste and water in another bowl. Heat skillet with eggplant over moderate heat until hot and pour in egg mixture, lifting edges of eggplant so eggs coat bottom of skillet. Cook omelet, uncovered, over low heat, until eggs begin to set around edge, 5 to 7 minutes. Slowly pour tomato mixture in a spiral pattern over surface of omelet, then bake in upper third of oven until eggs are set and pale golden, about 20 minutes. Loosen side and bottom of omelet and slide onto a plate. Serve at room temperature with a few grindings of black pepper.

1 large eggplant (1 1/2 lb) 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1 cup olive oil 8 large eggs 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese (1 1/2 oz) 4 teaspoons tomato paste 1/4 cup water

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Italian Cuisine

Roast Chicken with Pancetta and Olives


yield: Makes 8 servings active time: 25 min total time: 1 1/2 hr

indgredients
2 chickens (about 3 1/2 pounds each), backbones cut out and each chicken cut into 12 pieces (see cooks note, below) 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped thyme 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary 1 tablespoon fine sea salt 1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes 10 garlic cloves, peeled 2 (1/4-inch-thick) slices pancetta, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup dry white wine 24 oil-cured black olives

preparation

Preheat oven to 450F with rack in middle. Toss chicken with oil, thyme, rosemary, sea salt, red-pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon pepper, rubbing mixture into chicken. Arrange chicken, skin side up, in 1 layer in a 17-by 11-inch 4-sided sheet pan. Scatter garlic and pancetta on top and roast until chicken begins to brown, about 20 minutes. Drizzle wine over chicken and roast 8 minutes more. Scatter olives over chicken and roast until skin is golden brown and chicken is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes more. Let stand 10 minutes. Cooks note: To cut a chicken into 12 pieces, remove wings and cut each breast half into 3 pieces, then separate drumsticks and thighs. Backbones can be used to make chicken stock.

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Italian Cuisine

Spaghetti with Mussels


yield: Makes 4 servings

indgredients

preparation
1. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add 2 tablespoons salt. 2. In a 12-inch saut pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until light golden brown, about a minute. Add the wine, raise the heat, and bring to a boil, then add the mussels. Cook, stirring and tossing, until all of the mussels have opened, about 4 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until al dente; drain well. 4. Add the pasta to the pan with the mussels and cook over high heat for 1 minute. Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and serve immediately.

1/2 extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 cup dry white wine 2 pounds small mussels, scrubbed and debearded 1 pound spaghetti 1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes

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Italian Cuisine

Skillet Poached Eggs with Prosciutto


yield: Makes 4 servings

indgredients

1 cup finely chopped green onion tops 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup minced fresh Italian parsley 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt 4 1/2-inch-thick slices countrystyle sourdough bread, each about 4x6 inches 3 ounces arugula leaves (about 4 cups) 8 thin slices prosciutto (about 4 ounces) 8 large eggs Fresh Italian parsley sprigs

preparation
Finely chop the green onion tops by first cutting them lengthwise into long, thin strips. Combine chopped green onion tops, extra-virgin olive oil, minced Italian parsley, and salt in small bowl; whisk to blend. (Can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.) Lightly toast 4 sourdough bread slices. Spread each with 1 tablespoon green onion oil. Arrange 1/4 of arugula on each bread slice. Top each with 2 slices prosciutto. Transfer 1 prepared bread slice to each of 4 plates. Divide remaining green onion oil equally among four 1 1/4cup custard cups or ramekins. Using pastry brush, spread green onion oil over inside of each cup to coat (most of mixture will fall back to bottom of cup). This will keep the eggs from sticking, making them easier to unmold later. Break open 2 eggs into each prepared cup. Place cups in large skillet. Pour enough water into skillet to reach halfway up sides of cups. Set skillet over medium-high heat and bring water to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover skillet and gently cook eggs until whites are just firm to touch and yolks are set to desired consistency, about 6 minutes. Using spatula and oven mitt or hand towel as aids, lift cups with eggs from water. Cut around eggs to loosen. Turn 2 eggs out onto each prepared bread slice. Garnish with Italian parsley sprigs.

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Italian Cuisine

Oil-Poached Swordfish with White Corn, Guanciale and Chive Oil


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 35 minutes total time: 50

indgredients
Chive oil: 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives Swordfish and corn: 5 medium ears of white corn, husked 4 cups extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon, thinly sliced 4 peeled garlic cloves; 2 crushed, 2 minced 1 large fresh rosemary sprig 4 6-ounce swordfish steaks 1 cup 1/3-inch cubes guanciale or pancetta (Italian bacon) 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves Fine sea salt Ingredient info: Guanciale (saltcured pork jowl) is available at specialty foods stores and from zingermans.com. Pancetta (Italian bacon) makes a good substitute.

preparation

For chive oil: Combine oil and chives in blender and puree until smooth. Season chive oil to taste with salt and pepper. For swordfish and corn: Cook corn in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 8 minutes. Using tongs, remove corn from cooking liquid. Place on plate; reserve 1/2 cup corn cooking liquid. Cut corn kernels from cobs and reserve 4 cups (save remaining corn for another use). Preheat oven to 350F. Combine oil, lemon, crushed garlic, and rosemary in medium ovenproof pot. Attach deep-fry thermometer to side of pot; heat oil to 150F. Carefully lower swordfish into oil. Transfer pot to oven; poach fish uncovered until just firm to touch, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add guanciale; saut until almost crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Add minced garlic and shallot; saut until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in reserved 4 cups corn and crushed red pepper. Add butter and 2 tablespoons reserved corn cooking liquid; stir until mixture is moist and creamy, adding more cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if dry, about 5 minutes. Stir in chives and thyme. Season with sea salt and pepper. Divide corn among 4 shallow bowls. Top each with swordfish steak. Sprinkle with sea salt; drizzle with chive oil.

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Italian Cuisine

Italian Tuna and Shaved Fennel Sandwich with Black Olive Paste
yield: Makes 4 sandwiches active time: 20 minutes total time: 30 minutes

indgredients

1 baguette, split in half and cut into 4 sections 1 small fennel bulb Juice of 1 lemon (about 1/4 cup) 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup black or green olive paste or tapenade Peel of 1/4 preserved lemon, very thinly sliced (optional) 10 to 12 ounces finest imported Italian tuna packed in olive oil, drained 1 tablespoon harissa or other hot pepper sauce

preparation
Preheat the oven to 325F Individually wrap the 4 sections of baguette in aluminum foil and set in the oven to warm, about 10 minutes. Trim the fennel bulb of any fronds or stalks and remove a slice or two from the root end. Using a mandoline, a sharp knife, or a food processor, shave the fennel as thin as possible the shavings should be nearly transparent. Toss the fennel with the lemon juice, olive oil, a pinch of salt, and some pepper. Set aside. Remove one of the baguette sections from the oven. Spread the bottom half with a tablespoon or so of the olive paste. Lay on top 2 to 4 slices of preserved lemon, if using. Arrange one fourth of the tuna on the sandwich. Dot with some of the harissa, and top with a scattering of the fennel salad. Close the sandwich and wrap up again with foil. Set aside. Repeat with the remaining bread to form 4 sandwiches. Cut each in half through the foil and serve. Leftovers: Assembled sandwiches will keep for eight hours or so, but no more. As they sit, the bread gets a little soggy, but that isnt such a bad thing.

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27

Italian Cuisine

Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon, and Ginger


yield: yield: Makes 4 servings (Pollo Arrosto AllArancia, Limone, e Zenzero)

indgredients
1 lemon 1 roasting chicken, about 5 pounds Grated zest of 1 lemon, then lemon cut into quarters Grated zest of 1 orange, then orange cut into quarters 3 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger root Salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 tablespoons margarine, melted, or olive oil 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup fresh orange juice 3 tablespoons honey Orange sections for garnish
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preparation
Preheat an oven to 350F. Cut the lemon into quarters. Rub the outside of the chicken with one of the lemon quarters, then discard. In a small bowl, stir together the lemon and orange zests and 1 tablespoon of the grated ginger. Rub this mixture evenly in the cavity. Put the lemon and orange quarters inside the bird. Place the chicken on a rack in a roasting pan. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper. In the now-empty small bowl, combine the melted margarine or olive oil, lemon and orange juices, honey, and the remaining 2 tablespoons ginger. Mix well. Place the chicken in the oven and roast, basting with the citrus juice mixture at least 4 times during cooking, until the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Transfer to a serving platter and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Carve the chicken. Garnish with orange sections. Variation: Use 4 tablespoons pomegranate juice in place of the lemon juice.

28

Meats

Italian Cuisine

Grilled Italian Burgers


yield: Makes 4

indgredients
1 pound hot Italian sausage, casings removed 8 ounces ground pork 3 garlic cloves, pressed 2 teaspoons dried Italian seasoning, crumbled 1/4 cup minced drained oilpacked sun-dried tomatoes 1/4 cup mayonnaise 4 1/2-inch-thick onion slices 1 large red bell pepper, quartered lengthwise 4 1/4-inch-thick slices provolone cheese 4 onion rolls, cut horizontally in half

preparation

Mix first 4 ingredients in large bowl. Season with pepper. Divide mixture into quarters. Shape each into 3/4-inch-thick party. Mix tomatoes and mayonnaise in small bowl to blend. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover patties and tomato mayonnaise separately and chill.) Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Grill burgers, onions and peppers until burgers are cooked through and onions and peppers are lightly charred, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes. Move peppers and onions to cool side of grill. Top burgers with cheese. Place rolls on grill cut side down. Cover with lid and cook until cheese melts and buns are heated through, about 2 minutes. Transfer buns to plates. Spread 3/4 tablespoon mayonnaise mixture over each bun half. Top with burger, then bell pepper and onion. Cover with top half of buns and serve.

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29

Italian Cuisine

Italian Sausage Meatball Heroes


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 35 minutes total time: 1 hour

indgredients
1 pound spicy or sweet Italian sausages, casings removed 1 (23- to 24-ounce) container purchased fresh marinara sauce, divided 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 1/2 ounces) 1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil, divided 4 (5- to 6-inch-long) pieces French baguette, split horizontally 1 cup (packed) coarsely grated whole-milk mozzarella cheese
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preparation
Preheat oven to 400F. Mix sausage, 1/2 cup marinara, Parmesan, 2 tablespoons parsley, and 2 tablespoons basil in large bowl. Using wet hands, shape mixture into 8 meatballs. Bring 2 tablespoons parsley, 2 tablespoons basil, remaining marinara, and meatballs to boil in large skillet. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until meatballs are cooked through, turning often, about 20 minutes. Place baguette bottoms on baking sheet; spread each with about 2 tablespoons sauce from skillet. Cut meatballs in half in skillet; overlap 4 halves on each baguette bottom. Spoon remaining sauce over meatballs, then sprinkle mozzarella over, dividing equally. Bake until cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining parsley and basil and cover with baguette tops.

30

Italian Cuisine

Grilled Italian Sausage with Warm Pepper and Onion Salad


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 45 min total time: 45 min

indgredients
3 mixed large bell peppers, trimmed and quartered lengthwise 1 large red onion, quartered lengthwise and separated into layers 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 1 lb luganega or other fresh Italian sausage Special equipment: a perforated grill sheet; 2 (10- to 12-inchlong) wooden or metal skewers

preparation

Prepare grill for cooking over medium-hot charcoal (moderate heat for gas). (If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. When Charcoal turns grayish white (about 15 minutes from lighting), hold your hand 5 inches above grill rack to determine heat for charcoal as follows: Hot: When you can hold your hand there for 1 to 2 seconds; Medium-hot: 3 to 4 seconds; Low: 5 to 6 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then, if necessary, reduce to heat specified in recipe.) Toss peppers and onion with 1 tablespoon oil. Grill on lightly oiled grill sheet set directly on grill rack, with grill covered only if using a gas grill, turning occasionally, until slightly softened and charred, 9 to 15 minutes (onion will cook faster), transferring to a bowl as cooked. Add vinegar, oregano, salt, pepper, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to peppers and onion, tossing to coat. Let stand 10 minutes to allow flavors to develop. While vegetables stand, run skewers crisscrossed horizontally through sausage coil, securing ends. Grill directly over medium-hot charcoal (moderate heat for gas) on lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using a gas grill, turning over once, until cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes total. (Thicker sausage may take longer.) Transfer vegetables to a platter and top with sausage.
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31

Italian Cuisine

Grilled Lemon-Parsley Veal Chop


yield: Makes 6 servings

indgredients
Veal 1/2 cup olive oil 6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary 6 8- to 10-ounce loin or rib veal chops, each about 1 inch thick Topping 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon minced garlic
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preparation
For veal: Whisk first 5 ingredients in small bowl to blend. Arrange veal chops in 15x10x2-inch glass baking dish. Sprinkle chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Pour marinade over chops; turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. For topping: Stir together Italian parsley, lemon peel, rosemary, and garlic in small bowl to blend. Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Remove chops from marinade and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Grill chops until cooked to desired doneness, about 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer chops to serving platter; sprinkle each with topping.

32

Italian Cuisine

Italian Vegetable Stew


yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings active time: 45 min total time: 45 min

indgredients
1/3 cup olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 2 celery ribs, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 3 carrots, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 1/4 pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/2 cup water 1 (28-ounces) can whole tomatoes in juice, drained, juice reserved and tomatoes chopped, or 1 3/4 pounds fresh tomatoes, chopped 2 red bell peppers, cut into 3/4inch pieces 3/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces 1 1/4 pounds zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4inch-thick slices 3/4 pound boiling potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

preparation

Heat oil in a 7-to 8-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add onions, celery, carrots, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, about 10 minutes. Add eggplant and water and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is slightly softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in tomatoes with juice and bell peppers, then reduce heat to low and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cook green beans in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan of well-salted boiling water until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a large bowl. Add zucchini to boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer with slotted spoon to bowl with green beans. Add potatoes to boiling water and cook until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and add to beans and zucchini. Add boiled vegetables to stew and simmer, stirring, until all vegetables are very soft, about 15 minutes. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

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33

Italian Cuisine

Grilled Pizza with Spicy Italian Sausage


yield: Makes four 8-inch pizzas

preparation

Combine water and sugar in a food processor. Sprinkle yeast over; let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add oil, then 3 cups flour and salt. Process until dough comes together, about 1 minute. Turn dough out onto floured work surface. Sprinkle with rosemary. Knead until dough is smooth and elastic, adding more flour by tablespoonfuls if dough is sticky, about 5 minutes.Lightly oil large bowl. Add dough; turn to coat with oil. Cover bowl with plastic, then towel. Let stand in warm draftfree area until dough doubles, about 1 hour. To test that the dough has risen sufficiently, push two fingers into it. The depressions should remain. Punch down dough. Knead dough in bowl until smooth, about 2 minutes. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces. Stretch out each piece on floured surface to 9-inch round. To prevent the dough from sticking as you stretch it, use flour sparingly; too much will result in a tough crust. Toppings 3/4 cup olive oil 6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 pound spicy Italian sausages 2 yellow or red bell peppers, cored, lengthwise 1 large red onion, peeled, cut through root end into 1/2-inch thick wedges Whisk first 4 ingredients in medium bowl. Let vinaigrette stand 15 minutes at room temperature or refrigerate up to 2 hours. Prepare barbecue (medium heat). Arrange sausages, peppers and onion on baking sheet. Brush with some of vinaigrette. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill sausages until cooked through and peppers and onion until slightly charred and crisp-tender, turning and basting occasionally, about 12 minutes for sausages and 8 minutes for peppers and onion. Transfer sausages and vegetables to cutting board. Cut sausages into 1/2inch pieces and peppers into thin strips. Final preparation 2 cups grated mozzarella cheese 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 cups crumbled chilled soft fresh goat cheese (such as Montrachet) 4 plum tomatoes, halved, seeded, chopped 3/4 cup chopped green onion tops Add coals to barbecue if necessary. Place 2 dough rounds on grill. Grill over medium heat until top of dough puffs and underside is crisp, about 3 minutes. Turn rounds over. Grill 1 minute. Transfer to baking sheet with well-grilled side up. This side of the dough becomes the surface that will hold the toppings. Repeat with the remaining 2 dough rounds. Sprinkle each with 1/4 of mozzarella and Parmesan. Top each with 1/4 of sausage, peppers and onion, then with 1/4 of goat cheese, tomatoes and green onions. Drizzle each with 1 1/2 teaspoons vinaigrette. Using large metal spatula, return 2 pizzas to grill. Close grill or cover pizzas loosely with foil. Grill until cheeses melt and dough is cooked through and browned, using tongs to rotate pizzas for Transfer to plates. Repeat grilling for remaining 2 pizzas.

indgredients
Dough 1 cup warm water (105F to 115F) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 envelope dry yeast 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups (or more) all purpose flour 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

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34

Italian Cuisine

Italian Meat Loaf


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 35 minutes total time: 1 hour

indgredients
1 pound spicy or sweet Italian sausages, casings removed 1 (23- to 24-ounce) container purchased fresh marinara sauce, divided 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 1/2 ounces) 1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil, divided 4 (5- to 6-inch-long) pieces French baguette, split horizontally 1 cup (packed) coarsely grated whole-milk mozzarella cheese

preparation
Preheat oven to 400F. Mix sausage, 1/2 cup marinara, Parmesan, 2 tablespoons parsley, and 2 tablespoons basil in large bowl. Using wet hands, shape mixture into 8 meatballs. Bring 2 tablespoons parsley, 2 tablespoons basil, remaining marinara, and meatballs to boil in large skillet. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until meatballs are cooked through, turning often, about 20 minutes. Place baguette bottoms on baking sheet; spread each with about 2 tablespoons sauce from skillet. Cut meatballs in half in skillet; overlap 4 halves on each baguette bottom. Spoon remaining sauce over meatballs, then sprinkle mozzarella over, dividing equally. Bake until cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining parsley and basil and cover with baguette tops.

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35

Italian Cuisine

Prosciutto, Mozzarella, and Olive Sandwiches on Parmesan Focaccia


yield: 6 sandwiches

indgredients
1 large plum tomato 3 tablespoons black olive paste 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves 1 pound fresh mozzarella 4 cups trimmed arugula 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 Parmesan Focaccia 1/2 pound thinly sliced prosciutto

preparation

Seed tomato and chop fine. In a bowl stir together tomato, olive paste, and basil. Cut mozzarella into thin slices. Coarsely chop arugula and in a bowl toss with oil and salt and pepper to taste. Halve focaccia horizontally and spread bottom half with olive mixture. Top olive mixture with mozzarella, prosciutto, arugula, and remaining focaccia half. Press focaccia gently and cut lengthwise in half and crosswise into thirds to make 6 sandwiches. Cut sandwiches diagonally in half and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill sandwiches at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

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36

Italian Cuisine

Sausage, Salami, and Mozzarella Tart


yield: Makes 8 (appetizer) servings

indgredients
1 refrigerated pie crust (half of 15-ounce package), room temperature 8 ounces Italian sweet sausages, casings removed 3/4 cup coarsely grated mozzarella cheese (about 3 ounces) 2/3 cup diced Italian salami (such as Genoa) 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil 4 large eggs 1/2 cup whole milk 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

preparation
Preheat oven to 425F. Unfold crust on work surface. Press together any cracks in dough to seal crust. Place crust in 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom; fold in excess dough and press, forming doublethick sides that extend about 1/4 inch above rim of pan. Pierce crust with fork. Bake crust 5 minutes; press with back of fork if crust bubbles up. Continue to bake until crust is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 400F. Meanwhile, saut sausages in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat until brown, breaking into small pieces with back of fork, about 6 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to large bowl; cool. Add mozzarella, salami, Parmesan, and basil. Toss sausage mixture to blend. Spoon sausage mixture into prepared crust. Beat eggs, milk, and nutmeg in medium bowl to blend; season with pepper. Pour custard over sausage mixture in crust. Bake tart until filling is set in center and golden brown on top, about 30 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes and serve.
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37

Italian Cuisine

Tuscan Beef Stew with Polenta


yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings active time: 15 minutes Cooking time

indgredients
For stew 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 red onion, cut into medium dice 3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces 3 stalks celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 2 pounds stew beef, such as boneless chuck, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes 2 1/2 cups dry red wine 8 sprigs fresh thyme 3 medium tomatoes, halved 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper For polenta 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 cups vegetable stock or broth 1 cup polenta (coarse cornmeal)

preparation

Make stew In heavy, large saucepan over moderately high heat, heat oil until hot but not smoking. Add onion, carrot, and celery and saut, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add beef and saut, stirring occasionally, until brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add wine and thyme, stir well, and bring to boil. Add tomatoes, salt, and pepper, then lower heat to moderately low, cover, and simmer, stirring every 15 minutes, until beef is tender, about 2 hours. While beef is simmering, make polenta Pour olive oil into large serving bowl and swirl to coat. Set aside. In heavy, large pot over moderately high heat, bring stock to boil. Lower heat to moderate and slowly add polenta, stirring constantly. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until polenta thickens and pulls away from sides of pan, about 10 minutes. Transfer to oil-coated serving bowl and keep warm. Serve When beef is tender, use tongs to remove tomato skins (if desired) and thyme sprigs. Transfer stew to large serving bowl. Serve polenta alongside.

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38

Vegetarian

Italian Cuisine

Sicilian Pasta with Eggplant


yield: Serves 4 to 6 as a main course

preparation
indgredients
3 garlic cloves 1 pound Asian eggplants (about 6 medium) two 28- to 32-ounce cans whole tomatoes 1 pound ridged ziti or rigatoni 1 1/4 cups olive oil 3 ounces freshly grated ricotta salata cheese (about 3/4 cup) Garnish: fresh basil leaves

Peel garlic. Trim stem ends of eggplants. Halve eggplants lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. In a large sieve drain tomatoes. Transfer tomatoes to a bowl and squeeze to break into smaller pieces. In a 6-quart kettle bring 5 quarts salted water to a boil for pasta. In a 12-inch heavy skillet heat 1 cup oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Fry eggplant in 2 batches, turning, until golden brown on both sides. Transfer eggplant as fried with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, arranging it in one layer. Season eggplant with salt and pepper. Pour off oil from skillet and wipe clean with paper towels. Add remaining 1/4 cup oil to skillet and cook garlic over low heat, stirring, until golden. Stir in tomatoes with any juices that have accumulated in bowl and simmer, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Season sauce with salt and pepper. While sauce is simmering, cook pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water and drain pasta in a colander. Transfer half of tomato sauce with half of ricotta salata to a large bowl and toss with pasta and half of eggplant, adding some reserved pasta cooking water if sauce becomes too thick. Transfer pasta to a serving bowl and top with remaining sauce and eggplant and some of remaining cheese. Garnish pasta with basil and serve remaining cheese on the side.
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39

Italian Cuisine

Stuffed Italian Eggplant


yield: Makes 4 (main course) servings

indgredients
For tomato sauce 1 (28-oz) can whole tomatoes in juice (preferably Italian) 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 1/4 cups water 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil For eggplant and stuffing 4 small Italian eggplants (1 1/2 lb total; preferably with stem attached 1/2 cup long-grain white rice 3/4 cup water 3 slices firm white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces 1/4 cup whole milk 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 3 oz finely grated Pecorino Romano (1 1/4 cups) 1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper About 2 cups vegetable oil Special equipment: a deep-fat thermometer

preparation

Make sauce: Drain tomatoes, reserving juice, then finely chop. Heat oil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then cook garlic, stirring, until golden, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes with reserved juice, water, tomato paste, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 30 minutes. Stir in basil. Boil eggplants and make filling while sauce simmers: Bring a 5- to 6-quart pot of salted water to a boil over moderately high heat. Prick eggplants all over with a fork. Boil eggplants, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender when pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain and discard cooking water. When eggplants are cool enough to handle (after about 15 minutes), halve eggplants lengthwise through stem (keep stem attached). With a small sharp knife, scoop out and reserve flesh, leaving 1/4-inch-thick shells. Very finely chop flesh and transfer to a large bowl. Bring rice and water to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan, uncovered, then reduce heat and simmer rice, covered, until water has been absorbed and rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff rice with a fork and add to chopped eggplant. While rice cooks, combine bread and milk in a small bowl and let stand until bread has absorbed milk, then gently squeeze bread, discarding any milk. Add bread to rice mixture along with garlic, eggs, cheese, parsley, basil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and stir to combine well. Sprinkle inside of eggplant shells with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Firmly pack a scant 1/3-cup eggplant stuffing into each eggplant shell. (You may have some stuffing left over.) Fry and bake eggplants: Put oven rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 375F. Heat 1 inch vegetable oil in a 10-inch cast-iron or other deep heavy skillet over moderate heat until thermometer reaches 320F and add 2 eggplant halves, stuffing sides up. Fry, turning over once using 2 slotted spoons, until golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes total. Transfer, stuffing sides up, to paper towels to drain, then fry remaining eggplants, 2 halves at a time, in same manner, returning oil to 320F between batches. Spoon sauce into a 3-quart (about 13- by 9-inch) nonreactive baking dish. Add eggplants, stuffing sides up, and bake, covered with foil, until sauce is bubbling, about 25 minutes.

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40

Italian Cuisine

Trenette with Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans


yield: Serves 4

indgredients
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves (about 2 bunches) 1/2 cup olive oil (preferably extra-virgin) 6 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese (about 1 ounce) 6 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 ounce) 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic 2 medium russet potatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 6 ounces green beans, trimmed, cut into 3-inch lengths 1 pound trenette Additional freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

preparation

Finely grind basil, oil, 6 tablespoons each Romano and Parmesan cheeses, toasted pine nuts and minced garlic in processor. Season pesto to taste with salt and pepper. (Pesto can be prepared 2 days ahead. Press plastic wrap onto surface of pesto and refrigerate.) Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to large bowl. Add green beans to same pot and cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to bowl with potatoes. Cook pasta in same pot until tender but still firm to bite. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid. Transfer pasta to bowl with potatoes and green beans. Whisk reserved 1/2 cup cooking liquid into pesto. Add pesto to pasta mixture and toss thoroughly to coat. Transfer pasta to large platter. Serve, passing additional Pecorino Romano separately.
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41

Italian Cuisine

Escarole-Stuffed Pizza
yield: Makes 4 (main course) servings active time: 1 hr total time: 2 hr

preparation
indgredients
3 lb escarole (about 3 heads), tough outer ribs discarded and leaves thinly sliced (20 cups loosely packed) 1 lb pizza dough at room temperature 6 tablespoons olive oil 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped 10 oz chilled Italian Fontina, coarsely grated (2 cups) Special equipment: a 9-inch round metal cake pan (2 inches deep)

Put oven rack in lowest position and preheat oven to 500F. Lightly oil cake pan. Cook escarole in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain in a colander, then immerse colander in a large bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain again and press gently to remove excess water. Transfer escarole to a large kitchen towel, then gather corners and twist tightly to wring out as much liquid as possible. Cut off one third of dough (keep remaining dough covered with plastic wrap) and pat into cake pan, covering bottom. Brush with 1 tablespoon oil and prick all over with a fork. Bake until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Let crust stand in pan on a rack. Meanwhile, heat 1/4 cup oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then saut garlic, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 30 seconds. Add escarole, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and saut, stirring, until escarole is coated with oil, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a large shallow bowl to cool slightly, about 15 minutes, then stir in cheese. Spread escarole filling over crust in pan, leaving a 1/4-inch border around edge. Roll out remaining dough into a 10inch round (on a lightly floured board if it sticks). Transfer to pan, covering filling and tucking edge under bottom crust to form a flat top and completely enclose filling (stretch dough if necessary). Press edges to seal. Brush top with remaining tablespoon oil and bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Run a sharp thin knife around edge of pan. Invert a rack over pan and, wearing oven mitts and holding pan and rack firmly together, flip pizza onto rack. Turn pizza right side up and cool 15 minutes before serving. Slide pizza onto a cutting board and cut into wedges.

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42

Italian Cuisine

Orecchiette with Salsa Cruda and Ricotta


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 10 min total time: 30 min

indgredients
1 medium shallot, minced 2 small garlic cloves, forced through a garlic press 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, chopped 1/4 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes 1/3 cup coarsely chopped basil 1 pound dried orecchiette 3/4 cup ricotta (preferably fresh) Garnish: Small basil leaves

preparation
Stir together all ingredients except pasta and ricotta in a large bowl with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Let stand, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. Meanwhile, cook orecchiette in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (3 tablespoons salt for 6 qt water) until al dente. Drain pasta and toss with tomato salsa. Season with salt and pepper and dollop with ricotta.

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43

Italian Cuisine

Lemon Pine Nut Tagliatelle


yield: 6 to 8 servings

indgredients
1 cup (gently packed) fresh flatleaf parsley leaves 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil Zest of 2 lemons, cut into fine (julienne) strips 1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted Fine sea salt 1 recipe fresh pasta dough cut into tagliatelle (about 1 3/4 pounds) Freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges (optional)

preparation

1. Mince the parsley and place it in a large shallow bowl. Add the oil, lemon zest, and pine nuts and mix until well combined. Season with salt, cover, and let sit for at least 2 hours at room temperature. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the tagliatelle, stir, and cook until it is al dente (tender but still firm to the bite), 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. 3. Add the hot pasta along with the cooking water immediately to the prepared sauce and toss until the sauce is thoroughly distributed. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. 4. To serve, use two spoons and carefully scoop up the pasta, making sure to get pine nuts with each serving (see Note). Serve with lemon wedges if desired for squeezing atop the pasta. Note: The pine nuts tend to fall to the bottom of the bowl no matter how well you toss the pasta. Once the pasta is served, simply return to the bowl and evenly distribute the remaining pine nuts over each serving.

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44

Italian Cuisine

Gnocchi with Tomato, Basil, and Olives


yield: Makes 3 main-course or 6 firstcourse servings Gnocchi al Pomodoro, Basilico, ed Olive

indgredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup pitted Gaeta olives or Cerignola or other large green olives 1 1/2 cupstomato sauce 6 quarts salted water 1 recipeGnocchi 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese 5 fresh basil leaves, washed, dried, and shredded Salt and freshly ground black pepper

preparation
In a large, deep skillet, heat the butter over mediumhigh heat until foaming. Add the olives and cook, stirring, until sizzling, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and set aside. Bring the salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Cook and drain the gnocchi according to the directions Bring the tomato sauce back to a simmer over low heat. Add the gnocchi and stir gently with a wooden spoon until coated. Stir in the grated cheese and basil. Check the seasoning, transfer the gnocchi to a platter, and serve immediately.
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45

Italian Cuisine

Pasta with Peas, Cream, Parsley, and Mint


yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings active time: 20 minutes total time: 20 minutes

indgredients
1 16-ounce package large shell pasta or elbow pasta 1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream 1 16-ounce package frozen petite peas (do not thaw) 2 1/4 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided

preparation

Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta cooking liquid. Return pasta to pot. Meanwhile, bring cream to simmer in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add peas and simmer just until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 1/4 cups cheese and stir until melted and sauce thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Stir in mint and 1/4 cup parsley. Pour sauce over pasta and toss to coat, adding pasta cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl. Sprinkle with remaining parsley. Serve, passing additional Parmesan alongside.

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46

Italian Cuisine

Polenta and Vegetables with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce


yield: This filling meatless meal satisfies nearly a quarter of your daily fiber needs.

indgredients

1 cup uncooked instant polenta 2/3 cup grated Parmesan, divided 1/81/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper Vegetable oil cooking spray 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (or oregano) or 1 tablespoon dried cup fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon olive oil 8 asparagus stalks, ends trimmed 8 scallions, trimmed 2 small Japanese or Italian eggplants, trimmed and halved 1 medium-large yellow squash (about pound), cut into 1/3inch-thick slices 1 cup cherry tomatoes Sauce 1 jar (12 ounces) prepared roasted red peppers, drained 1/3 cup vegetable (or chicken) broth 1 large clove garlic, chopped 3 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, basil or parsley (plus extra for garnish) 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

preparation
Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a medium-sized heavy saucepan. Add polenta in a stream, whisking to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, until thick, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk in 1/3 cup Parmesan and season with cayenne and salt. Coat a 9-inch pie plate with cooking spray. Transfer polenta to pie plate, smooth into an even layer and let cool 15 minutes. Heat broiler. Whisk garlic, thyme, lemon juice and oil in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Toss vegetables with dressing. Coat a baking sheet with cooking spray and arrange vegetables in 1 layer (or in 1 layer in a grill basket). Broil vegetables about 4 inches from heat until tender and slightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes on each side. Transfer to a platter. Combine all sauce ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Sprinkle polenta with remaining 1/3 cup Parmesan. Broil polenta in pie plate until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes, then cut polenta into 8 triangles. Divide polenta among 4 plates. Top with vegetables, drizzle with sauce and sprinkle with chives. Serve any remaining sauce on the side.
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47

Italian Cuisine

Linguine with Leeks, Radicchio, and Walnut Pesto


yield: Makes 2 servings active time: 30 minutes total time: 30 minutes

indgredients
8 ounces linguine 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 cups thinly sliced leeks (including some dark green parts) 1/2 cup (packed) fresh Italian parsley leaves 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese plus shaved Parmesan for garnish 1/4 cup walnut pieces (about 1 ounce) plus additional for garnish 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 2 cups thinly sliced radicchio

preparation

Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add leeks; season with salt and pepper. Cover; cook until tender and beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Puree parsley, 1/4 cup Parmesan, 1/4 cup walnuts, lemon juice, and 3 tablespoons oil in mini processor until coarse puree forms. Season pesto with salt and pepper. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Add pasta, pesto, and radicchio to leeks; toss, adding cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if dry. Garnish with walnuts and shaved Parmesan.

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48

Vegetarian

Italian Cuisine

Italian Almond Cookies


yield: Makes about 3 dozen cookies

indgredients

2 1/4 cups blanched whole almonds (about 12 ounces), plus 15 for garnishing 2/3 cup sugar 2 large egg whites, at room temperature 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 15 glaced cherries

preparation
Arrange racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 350F. Lightly oil 2 large baking sheets, then line with parchment paper. In food processor, combine 2 1/4 cups almonds and 1/3 cup sugar. Process until finely ground, scraping down sides once or twice. Set aside. In electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat egg whites and salt at high speed until soft peaks form. Reduce speed to medium and gradually sprinkle in remaining 1/3 cup sugar. Return speed to high and beat mixture until stiff, shiny peaks form. Gently fold in ground almond mixture and almond and vanilla extracts. Roll mixture into 1-inch balls, place 2 inches apart on baking sheets, and flatten slightly. Top each with glaced cherry or almond. Bake until cookies are golden, switching positions of pans halfway through, about 25 minutes. Cool on sheets 5 minutes, then transfer to racks to cool completely. Cookies keep, wrapped, several days, or frozen, several weeks. Recrisp in warm oven.

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49

Italian Cuisine

Italian Fruitcakes with Frangelico Chocolate Sauce


yield: Makes 2 servings active time: 30 minutes total time: 30 minutes

indgredients
8 ounces linguine 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 cups thinly sliced leeks (including some dark green parts) 1/2 cup (packed) fresh Italian parsley leaves 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese plus shaved Parmesan for garnish 1/4 cup walnut pieces (about 1 ounce) plus additional for garnish 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 2 cups thinly sliced radicchio

preparation
Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add leeks; season with salt and pepper. Cover; cook until tender and beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Puree parsley, 1/4 cup Parmesan, 1/4 cup walnuts, lemon juice, and 3 tablespoons oil in mini processor until coarse puree forms. Season pesto with salt and pepper. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Add pasta, pesto, and radicchio to leeks; toss, adding cooking liquid by tablespoonfuls if dry. Garnish with walnuts and shaved Parmesan.

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50

Italian Cuisine

Italian Fig Cookies


yield: Makes about 5 1/2 dozen cookies active time: 1 hr total time: 10 hr

indgredients

For filling 1 cup packed soft dried Mission figs (8 oz), hard tips discarded 3/4 cup raisins (3 3/4 oz) 3/4 cup mild honey 1/4 cup brandy 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh orange zest 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 3/4 cup whole almonds (4 oz), toasted and coarsely chopped 3/4 cup walnuts (3 oz), toasted and coarsely chopped For pastry dough 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 sticks (1 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1/2 cup whole milk 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange or lemon zest For icing 1 cup confectioners sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

preparation
Make filling: Pulse figs and raisins in a food processor until finely chopped, then stir together with remaining filling ingredients in a bowl. Chill, covered, at least 8 hours. Make dough: Whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add butter and blend with your fingertips or a pastry blender (or pulse in a food processor) just until most of mixture resembles coarse meal with some small (roughly pea-size) butter lumps. Add eggs, milk, vanilla, and zest and stir with a fork until a soft dough forms. Halve dough and gather each half into a ball, then flatten each half into a rough 6- by 4-inch rectangle between sheets of plastic wrap. Chill until firm, at least 8 hours. Form cookies: Preheat oven to 350F. Roll out 1 rectangle of dough (keep remaining dough chilled) into a 15- by 14-inch rectangle on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Trim to a 13- by 10-inch rectangle (chill trimmings), then cut into 4 (10- by 3 1/4-inch) strips. Arrange 1/3 cup filling in a 1-inch-wide log lengthwise down center of each strip, then fold sides of each strip up over filling to enclose it, pinching edges together to seal. Turn rolls seam-sides down and press gently to flatten seams. Cut logs crosswise with a floured knife into 1 1/2inch-wide slices and arrange 1/2 inch apart on buttered large baking sheets. Make more cookies in same manner with remaining chilled dough, trimmings (reroll once), and filling. Bake cookies in batches in middle of oven until golden around edges, 16 to 20 minutes. Transfer cookies to racks and cool until warm, about 10 minutes. Make icing while first batch of cookies bake: Whisk together confectioners sugar, vanilla, and enough orange juice to make a pourable icing. Brush icing on warm cookies and decorate with nonpareils (if using), then cool completely
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51

Italian Cuisine

Hazelnut Espresso Shortbread Cookies


yield: Makes 4 dozen

indgredients
2 cups all purpose flour 1 cup (packed) golden brown sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2/3 cup hazelnuts, toasted, husked, coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons hot water 2 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

preparation

Preheat oven to 350F. Blend flour, brown sugar, cornstarch, 1 tablespoon espresso powder and salt in processor. Add butter and vanilla. Using on/off turns, process until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add nuts; blend until finely chopped. Transfer dough to floured work surface. Knead just until dough comes together. Divide dough in half. Press each half into 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Bake until deep golden brown, about 25 minutes. Transfer shortbread to rack; cool 2 minutes. Remove pan sides. Cut each shortbread round into 24 wedges. Cool completely. Mix 2 tablespoons hot water and remaining 1 teaspoon espresso powder in small saucepan. Add chocolate. Stir over medium-low heat until chocolate is smooth. Remove from heat. Cool slightly. Drizzle chocolate mixture over cookies. Let stand until chocolate sets. (Can be prepared ahead. Store in airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week, or freeze up to 1 month.)

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52

Italian Cuisine

Sfratti
yield: Makes about forty-two 2-inch cookies

indgredients

Pastry: 3 cups pastry or bleached all-purpose flour, sifted 1 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, chilled About 2/3 cup sweet or dry white wine Filling: 1 cup (12 ounces) honey 2 1/2 cups (about 12 1/2 ounces) walnuts, chopped 2 teaspoons orange zest 2 teaspoons lemon zest (optional) 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated black pepper Egg wash (1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

preparation
1. To make the pastry: Combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Cut in the butter to resemble coarse crumbs. Sprinkle a little wine over a section of the flour, then mix with a fork to moisten. Push the moistened dough aside and continue adding enough wine until the dough just holds together. Divide in half. Using your fingertips, lightly press and knead into balls. Flatten into discs, wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. Let stand at room temperature until malleable but not soft. 2. To make the filling: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the honey to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Be careful, it may foam up. Add the remaining filling ingredients and cook, stirring constantly, for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is cool enough to handle but not set. Pour onto a floured surface, divide into 6 equal portions, and shape the portions into 14-inch-long sticks. 3. Preheat the oven to 350F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or grease. 4. On a piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap or on a lightly floured surface, roll each piece of dough into a 14-by-12-inch rectangle, then cut each rectangle lengthwise into three 14-by-14-inch rectangles. Place a nut strip near a long side of each rectangle and roll up from the filling side. Cut into 2-inch sticks. Place seam side down on the prepared baking sheet, leaving 1 inch between the cookies, and brush with the egg wash. 5. Bake until golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool. Wrap in aluminum foil until ready to serve. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. VARIATIONS Oil Pastry: Substitute 1/3 cup vegetable oil for the butter and combine it with the wine.
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53

Italian Cuisine

Pistachio and Almond Cake with Orange Salad


yield: This homespun loaf cake evokes the nut tree-covered hills of Avellino and the lemon-scented Amalfi coast. The cake batter is primarily ground raw nuts, generously flavored with lemon zest. The latter gives the finished cake a pronounced citrus flavor that pairs well with the orange salad

indgredients
PISTACHIO AND ALMOND CAKE 1 1/3 cups unsalted shelled pistachio nuts 1 1/3 cups blanched whole almonds 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature 3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar 3 lemons 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 3 eggs 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon 00 flour or all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt ORANGE SALAD 3 blood oranges 2 Valencia, navel, or blood oranges 1/4 cup orange marmalade 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt Unsalted shelled pistachio nuts
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preparation

To make the cake, preheat the oven to 300F. Butter a 4-by-8-inch loaf pan. Then, using a sifter or a fine-mesh strainer, dust it with flour, tapping out the excess. In a food process, combine the pistachios and almonds and pulse until finely ground. Set aside. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Grate the zest from the lemons directly into the bowl. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for about 2 minutes, or until smooth and creamy. Mix in the vanilla just until incorporated. On low speed, gradually add the nuts and mix just until incorporated. Then add the eggs, one at a time, mixing after each addition just until incorporated. Stir in the flour and salt and mix just until incorporated. Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Bake until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then, run a paring knife around the inside of the pan to loosen the cake sides, invert the cake onto a plate, and lift off the pan. At this point, the cake can be served warm or allowed to cool completely before being sliced and reheated. To make the orange salad, cut a slice off the top and bottom of 1 orange, stand the orange upright, and cut downward to remove the rind and pith in thick strips. Cut the orange crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, capturing any juice. Repeat with all of the remaining oranges. Set the oranges slices aside until needed. Gently heat the marmalade in a pot over low heat for about 3 minutes, or until syrupy. Add any captured orange juice along with the lemon juice to the marmalade. Remove the pot from the heat and add 1 to 2 tablespoons water to think the marmalade to the consistency of a vinaigrette. Let cool. To serve, preheat the oven to 400F. Cut the cake into generous slices and place on a baking sheet. Bake the slices, turning them over once, for about 5 minutes, or until warm and slightly toasted on both sides. Place 4 or 5 orange slices on each plate and drizzle generously with the marmalade syrup. Place the warm pieces of cake next to the orange slices and top with a dollop of yogurt and a few pistachios. Serve immediately.

54

Italian Cuisine

Vanilla Panna Cotta with Pear Jam


yield: Makes 8 to 10 servings

indgredients

For pear jam: 2 pounds ripe Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 1 cup sugar For panna cotta: 4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin from 2 (1/4-ounce) envelopes 2 cups heavy cream 2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup sugar 2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise

preparation
Start pear jam: In large bowl, toss together pears and sugar. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight. Make panna cotta: In small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over cream. Let stand until gelatin softens, about 1 minute. Meanwhile, in medium saucepan over moderate heat, whisk together milk and sugar. Scrape in seeds from vanilla beans; add beans. Heat, whisking occasionally, until sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in cream mixture. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, discarding vanilla beans, then ladle mixture into 8 (4-ounce) ramekins. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight. Finish pear jam: In heavy medium saucepan over moderate heat, combine 1/2 cup water and pear mixture. Bring to simmer, uncovered, and cook until pears are tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer mixture to food processor and pure until smooth. Transfer jam to medium bowl, cover tightly, and refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour. (Jam will keep, covered, in refrigerator up to 1 week.) Unmold and serve: Run thin sharp knife around inside edge of each ramekin to loosen. Dip bottom of 1 ramekin in bowl of very warm water 6 seconds. Put plate over ramekin, then invert panna cotta onto plate, gently lifting off ramekin. Repeat to unmold remaining panna cottas. Top each with 1/4 cup pear jam and serve.

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55

Italian Cuisine

Walnut Cake with CoffeeMascarpone Cream


yield: Makes 10 to 12 servings

indgredients
Cake 1 cup walnuts (about 4 ounces), toasted, chopped, divided 1 cup sugar, divided 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder 1 1/3 cups all purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature 3 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 3/4 cup buttermilk Coffee-mascarpone cream 4 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder 1 tablespoon water 1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream 1/2 cup (4 ounces) mascarpone cheese* 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 3/4 cup (about 3 ounces) walnuts, toasted, chopped 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of salt *Italian cream cheese; sold at many supermarkets and at Italian markets.

preparation

For cake: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350F. Butter and flour two 9-inch-diameter cake pans with 1 1/2-inch-high sides. Blend 1/2 cup walnuts, 1 tablespoon sugar, and espresso in processor until nuts are finely ground. Whisk flour, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt in medium bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until smooth. Gradually add remaining sugar (1 cup minus 1 tablespoon), beating until fluffy. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time, then egg yolk. Add ground walnut mixture and vanilla; beat to blend. Reduce mixer speed to low and beat in dry ingredients in 3 additions alternately with buttermilk in 2 additions. Fold in remaining 1/2 cup walnuts. Divide batter evenly between prepared pans. Bake cake layers until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 26 minutes. Cool in pans 5 minutes, then turn out onto racks and cool completely. For coffee-mascarpone cream: Stir espresso and 1 tablespoon water in large bowl until coffee dissolves. Add cream, mascarpone, sugar, and vanilla. Beat until filling is thick and smooth (do not overbeat or filling may curdle). Place 1 cake layer on platter, flat side up. Spread half of filling over cake. Place second layer, flat side down, on filling. Spread remaining filling over top. Mix walnuts, cinnamon, and salt. Sprinkle over top of cake. Cover with cake dome. Chill at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

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56

Italian Cuisine

Mascarpone Cheesecake with Balsamic Strawberries


yield: Serves 8 to 10

indgredients

1 1/2 cups ground crumbs from purchased almond biscotti (about 6 ounces) 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted 2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature 8 ounces mascarpone cheese* 1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar 2 large eggs 3 cups quartered hulled strawberries (about 1 1/2 12-ounce baskets) 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar *Italian cream cheese; sold at Italian markets and some supermarkets. If unavailable in your area, blend 8 ounces cream cheese with 1/4 cup whipping cream and 2 1/2 tablespoon sour cream.

preparation
Tightly wrap outside of 9-inch-diameter springform pan with 2 3/4inch-high sides with 2 layers of heavy-duty foil. Mix biscotti crumbs and butter in bowl. Press mixture evenly onto bottom (not sides) of prepared pan. Chill 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350F. Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese, mascarpone and 1 1/4 cups sugar in large bowl until smooth. Add eggs 1 at a time; beat just until blended. Spread cheese mixture evenly over crust in pan. Place springform pan in large roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of springform pan. Bake until cheesecake is golden and center of cake moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Transfer cake to rack; cool 1 hour. Chill overnight. (Cake can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.) Mix strawberries, 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar and vinegar in large bowl. Let stand at room temperature until juices form, about 30 minutes. Cut cake into wedges. Spoon strawberries alongside and serve.

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57

Italian Cuisine

Mixed Berry Tiramisu


yield: Serves 10

indgredients
Cake 1 12-ounce package unsweetened frozen mixed berries 12 tablespoons sugar 1 10-ounce package frozen raspberries in syrup, thawed 1/4 cup raspberry liqueur 3 4.40-ounce packages Champagne biscuits (4-inch-long ladyfingerlike biscuits) 3 8-ounce containers mascarpone cheese* 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 1-pint basket strawberries, hulled 2 1/2-pint baskets raspberries 1 1/2-pint basket blueberries *Italian cream cheese available at Italian markets and specialty foods stores. If unavailable, blend 1 1/2 pounds cream cheese with 1/2 cup whipping cream and 6 tablespoons sour cream. Use 3 cups for recipe

preparation

Cook frozen mixed berries and 6 tablespoons sugar in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat until mixture resembles jam and is reduced to 1 cup, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Cool jam mixture. Strain syrup from thawed raspberries through sieve set over bowl, pressing gently on solids. Discard solids. Add raspberry liqueur to raspberry syrup in bowl. Using sharp knife, trim 1 biscuit to 3-inch (about) length. Quickly dip biscuit into syrup, turning to coat lightly. Place rounded end up and sugared side against side of 9-inch-diameter springform pan with 2 3/4-inch-high sides. Repeat with as many biscuits as necessary to cover sides of pan. Dip more biscuits in syrup and arrange on bottom of pan, covering completely and trimming to fit. In bowl, whisk mascarpone with 6 tablespoons sugar and vanilla to blend. Set aside. Thinly slice enough strawberries to measure 1/2 cup. Gently spread half of jam mixture over biscuits in bottom of pan. Spoon half of mascarpone mixture over; smooth top. Sprinkle with sliced strawberries, 1/2 cup fresh raspberries and 1/2 cup blueberries. Dip more biscuits into syrup; arrange over fruit in pan, covering completely and trimming to fit. Gently spread remaining jam mixture over biscuits. Spoon remaining mascarpone mixture over; smooth top. Cover; chill at least 4 hours or overnight. Release pan sides. Transfer cake to platter. Arrange remaining fresh berries decoratively atop cake and serve.

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58

Italian Cuisine

french cuisine

page

59

Italian Cuisine

Swiss Chard Ravioli


yield: Serves 8 as a first-course

indgredients
1/4 cup water 1 pound Swiss chard, center spine and stems trimmed 1 cup ricotta cheese 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 large egg 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 64 gyoza (potsticker) wrappers* (from two 12-ounce packages) 1 large egg white, beaten to blend 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter 1/4 cup chopped fresh sage Additional freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional) *Gyoza wrappers can be found at Asian markets and in the refrigerator section of many supermarkets. If unavailable, substitute wonton wrappers and cut into 3 1/2-inch rounds.

preparation

Bring 1/4 cup water to boil in large pot. Add chard leaves. Cover; cook until tender but still bright green, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Drain. Cool slightly. Squeeze dry. Chop chard finely. Transfer to large bowl. Mix in ricotta, 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, egg, garlic, thyme, salt, rosemary and pepper. Line baking sheet with foil or plastic wrap; sprinkle with flour. Place 1 gyoza wrapper on work surface. Brush surface of wrapper with some egg white. Spoon generous 1 teaspoon chard mixture into center of wrapper. Top with another wrapper. Press edges together to seal. Transfer to baking sheet. Repeat with remaining wrappers, egg white and chard mixture to make 32 ravioli total. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and chill.) Melt butter in heavy small skillet over medium heat. Add sage; stir 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Working in batches, cook ravioli in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes per batch. Transfer ravioli to large shallow bowl. Pour sage butter over ravioli and toss. Serve, passing additional Parmesan cheese alongside, if desired.

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60

Italian Cuisine

Wild Mushroom and Gruyre Tart with Fresh Herb Salad


yield: Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings

indgredients

Tart 1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese 1 large egg yolk 2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil 1/4 cup crme frache or sour cream 1 1/2 pounds assorted fresh wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, oyster, or stemmed shiitake), sliced 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoon butter 1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced on diagonal (about 1 1/2 cups) 1 sheet frozen puff pastry (half of 17.3ounce package), thawed 1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend with 1 teaspoon water (for glaze) 4 ounces thinly sliced Gruyre cheese Salad 6 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley leaves 1/3 cup 1/2-inch pieces fresh chives 3 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves 3 tablespoons fresh chervil leaves 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

preparation
For tart: Puree ricotta in processor until smooth, about 1 minute. Add 1 yolk and 2 teaspoons oil and blend. Transfer ricotta mixture to bowl; fold in crme frache. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and saut 7 minutes. Mix in thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add butter and saut until mushrooms are tender, about 4 minutes longer. Mix in green onions. Preheat oven to 400F. Roll out puff pastry on lightly floured surface to 13x9-inch rectangle. Using sharp knife and starting 1/4 inch in from edge, cut score line around entire perimeter of dough, cutting halfway through. Brush 1/4-inch dough border with glaze. Transfer dough to ungreased heavy baking sheet. Spread ricotta mixture over dough, inside border. Top with half of mushrooms, half of Gruyre, then remaining mushrooms and Gruyre. Bake tart until crust is golden and Gruyre melts, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare salad: Toss herbs with oil and lemon juice in small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cut tart into rectangles. Transfer to plates. Garnish with herb salad.
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61

Italian Cuisine

Stuffed Peppers
yield: Serves 8

indgredients
1 1/2 pounds sweet Italian sausages, casings removed 1 1/2 cups coarsely grated zucchini (about 1 large) 1/2 cup finely chopped red onion 1/3 cup minced fresh parsley 1/4 cup fine dry breadcrumbs 1 large egg 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary 4 medium-size red bell peppers (each about 4 to 6 ounces), halved lengthwise, seeded Fresh rosemary sprigs

preparation

Preheat oven to 350F. Mix first 9 ingredients in large bowl until well blended. Fill pepper halves with sausage mixture, dividing equally and mounding slightly. Arrange in 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking dish. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill.) Bake peppers uncovered until tops are browned and thermometer inserted into filling registers 165F, about 1 hour. Transfer peppers to platter. Garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve.

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62

Italian Cuisine

Goat Cheese and Herb Dip


yield: Makes about 1 1/2 cups

indgredients

8 ounces soft fresh goat cheese (such as Montrachet) 3 tablespoons olive oil (preferably extra-virgin) 3 tablespoons plain yogurt 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon chopped assorted edible flowers (optional) Toasted baguette slices Assorted raw vegetables

preparation
Blend goat cheese, oil and yogurt in processor until smooth. Transfer to small bowl. Mix in all herbs and flowers, if desired. Season dip to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until dip is cold and flavors blend, about 3 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.) Serve dip with toasted baguette slices and raw vegetables.

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63

Italian Cuisine

Anchoiade
yield: Makes about 2 cups

indgredients
1/3 cup blanched whole almonds a 2-ounce can flat anchovies, rinsed and patted dry 3 garlic cloves 1 shallot, quartered 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon herbes de Provence or dried Italian seasoning, crumbled 1 tomato, seeded and chopped fine (about 3/4 cup) 1 red bell pepper, chopped fine (about 3/4 cup) 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves French bread toasts as an accompaniment

preparation

In a food processor grind fine almonds with anchovies and garlic. With motor running add shallot, oil, vinegar, and herbes de Provence and blend well. Add tomato, bell pepper, and parsley and pulse motor until just combined, being careful not to pure smooth. Anchoade may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled. Serve anchoade at room temperature on toasts.

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64

Italian Cuisine

Salmon Rillettes
yield: Makes abut 4 cups

indgredients

3 cups water 1 pound skinless fresh salmon fillet 1 pound smoked salmon, chopped fine 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened 3 shallots, minced 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons drained capers 2 teaspoons Cognac or other brandy 2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest whole-wheat French or Italian bread, sliced as an accompaniment

preparation
In a skillet bring water to a boil and add fresh salmon. Reduce heat and poach salmon at a bare simmer, turning once, about 4 minutes, or until just cooked through. Transfer salmon to a bowl and cool. Flake fresh salmon and add smoked salmon, butter, shallots, parsley, lemon juice, mustard, capers, Cognac or other brandy, zest, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir mixture until combined well and pack into a 1-quart terrine or bowl. Rillettes may be made 4 hours ahead and kept chilled, covered. Serve salmon rillettes, chilled slightly, with bread.

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65

Italian Cuisine

Pizza with Fontina, Potatoes, and Tapenade


yield: Serves 8 as a first-course

indgredients
1/4 cup warm water (105F to 115F) 1 1/4-ounce package active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons) 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 cups bread flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup cold water 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped 4 baby Yukon Gold potatoes Cornmeal (for sprinkling) 1/3 cup freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese 1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) coarsely grated Italian Fontina cheese (such as Fontina dAosta) 1 roasted red bell pepper in brine from jar, diced (1/3 cup) 3 tablespoons purchased black olive tapenade* 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary Dried crushed red pepper

preparation

Stir warm water and yeast in small bowl. Let stand 5 minutes to dissolve. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil. Mix flour and 1 teaspoon salt in processor. With machine running, add yeast mixture, then 1/2 cup cold water; process until dough forms ball on top of blade. Process 45 seconds. Transfer dough to lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour 1 tablespoon oil into medium bowl. Add dough to bowl; turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in warm draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil and garlic in small saucepan over low heat until mixture begins to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes. Set garlic oil aside. Place potatoes in medium saucepan. Add enough cold water to cover. Sprinkle with salt. Cover and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and boil with lid slightly ajar until almost tender, about 12 minutes. Drain; let stand until cool. Place pizza stone or baking sheet (if using rimmed sheet, turn upside down) in oven. Preheat oven to 450F. Transfer dough to work surface. Roll, pat, and stretch dough to 12- to 14-inch round. Sprinkle pizza peel or another baking sheet (if using rimmed sheet, turn upside down) with cornmeal. Transfer dough round to prepared peel. Cover with plastic and let rest 10 minutes. Using thin knife, cut potatoes into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle dough with Parmigiano-Reggiano and Fontina, leaving 1-inch plain border around edge. Arrange potato slices over cheese, then brush potatoes with garlic oil. Sprinkle roasted red peppers over pizza. Spoon heaping 1/4-teaspoon dollops tapenade over. Brush dough border with garlic oil. Slide pizza from peel to pizza stone or baking sheet in oven. Bake until bottom of crust is golden brown and cheese is melted, 15 to 20 minutes. Using peel, transfer pizza to cutting board. Drizzle any remaining garlic oil over pizza. Sprinkle with chopped rosemary, crushed red pepper, and salt. Cut into wedges and serve. * A thick paste or spread made from brine-cured olives, capers, anchovies, and seasonings; available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and Italian markets.

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66

Italian Cuisine

Makes 8 first-course or 4 maincourse servings


yield: Makes about 2 cups

indgredients

16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter, room temperature, divided 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 12 ounces fresh chanterelles, cleaned, coarsely chopped (about 5 cups) 1 garlic clove, minced 1/4 cup imported dry Marsala 1 tablespoon (or more) fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon (packed) finely grated lemon peel 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley Toasted baguette slices

preparation
Melt 6 tablespoons butter with oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add mushrooms; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Saut until mushrooms are tender and beginning to color, 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, then Marsala, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, tomato paste, and lemon peel. Simmer until Marsala has evaporated, about 1 minute. Cool. Transfer mushroom mixture to processor; add parsley and 10 tablespoons butter. Process until mushrooms are finely chopped. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice, if desired. Transfer to small bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to develop. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 week ahead. Keep refrigerated. Serve rillettes with toasted baguette slices.

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67

Italian Cuisine

Ham, Leek, and Three-Cheese Quiche


yield: Makes 8 main-course servings active time: 35 min total time: 2 1/2 hr

indgredients
1 round of refrigerated pie dough for a 9-inch pie (from a 15-oz package; not a preshaped frozen pie shell) 3/4 lb leeks (about 3 medium; white and pale green parts only) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 lb thinly sliced smoked ham 3 oz Gruyre, coarsely grated (1 cup) 3 oz Italian Fontina, coarsely grated (1 cup) 3 oz whole-milk mozzarella, coarsely grated (1 cup) 3 large eggs 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 3/4 cups crme frache (from two 8-oz containers) Special equipment: a 9-inch pie plate (4-cup capacity)

preparation

Prebake pie dough in pie plate according to package instructions, then remove from oven and reduce temperature to 350F. Meanwhile, halve leeks lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces, then wash well in a bowl of cold water, agitating leeks. Lift out and drain leeks in a colander and pat dry. Melt butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat and cook leeks, stirring occasionally, until very tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Line warm pie shell with sliced ham, overlapping layers as necessary to cover bottom and side of pie shell completely. Toss cheeses together and sprinkle evenly into pie shell (do not pack cheese), then spread leeks evenly on top of cheese. Whisk together eggs, nutmeg, and pepper until combined well, then whisk in crme frache until smooth. Carefully pour half of custard on top of pie filling, gently moving cheese with a spoon to help custard disperse evenly. Slowly add remaining custard in same manner. Cover pie loosely with foil, gently folding edges over crust (keep foil from touching top of cheese mixture) and transfer to a baking sheet. Bake until center of filling is puffed and set (center will be slightly wobbly but not liquid), about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Cool on a rack at least 20 to 30 minutes before serving (filling will continue to set as it cools). Serve warm or at room temperature.

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68

Italian Cuisine

Gougres
yield: Makes about 36 gougres

indgredients

1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup water 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 5 large eggs, at room temperature 1 1/2 cups coarsely grated cheese, such as Gruyre or cheddar (about 6 ounces; see above)

preparation
Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a rapid boil in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over high heat. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat to medium-low, and immediately start stirring energetically with a wooden spoon or heavy whisk. The dough will come together and a light crust will form on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirringwith vigorfor another minute or two to dry the dough. The dough should now be very smooth. Turn the dough into the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or into a bowl that you can use for mixing with a hand mixer or a wooden spoon and elbow grease. Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one and beat, beat, beat until the dough is thick and shiny. Make sure that each egg is completely incorporated before you add the next, and dont be concerned if the dough separatesby the time the last egg goes in, the dough will come together again. Beat in the grated cheese. Once the dough is made, it should be spooned out immediately. Using about 1 tablespoon of dough for each gougre , drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Using about 1 tablespoon of dough for each gougre, drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the gougres are golden, firm, and, yes, puffed, another 12 to 15 minutes or so. Serve warm, or transfer the pans to racks to cool. Serving Gougres are good straight from the oven and at room temperature. I like them both ways, but I think you can appreciate them best when theyre still warm. Serve with kir, white wine, or Champagne. Storing The best way to store gougres is to shape the dough, freeze the mounds on a baking sheet, and then, when theyre solid, lift them off the sheet and pack them airtight in plastic bags. Bake them straight from the freezerno need to defrost just give them a minute or two more in the oven. Leftover puffs can be kept at room temperature over night and reheated in a 350-degree-F oven, or they can be frozen and reheated before serving.

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69

Italian Cuisine

Chicken Breasts Provenal


yield: Myield: Makes 4 servings active time: 30 min total time: 50 min

indgredients
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes 4 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless boneless chicken breasts, tenders reserved for another use 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 flat anchovy fillet, mashed to a paste 1/2 cup dry white wine 3/4 cup chicken stock or reducedsodium chicken broth 10 pitted brine-cured black olives, thinly sliced lengthwise 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1 tablespoon finely shredded basil

preparation

Core tomatoes and cut a shallow X in bottom of each, then blanch in a medium pot of boiling water 10 seconds. Transfer with a slotted spoon to an ice bath to stop cooking. Peel, seed, and finely chop. Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, then dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook chicken, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and keep warm, covered. Add garlic and anchovy paste to skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add wine and bring to a boil, scraping up brown bits. Stir in tomatoes, stock, and olives and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until mixture has thickened into a sauce, 8 to 10 minutes. Whisk in butter and any juices from platter. Add chicken and simmer until just heated through, about 1 minute. Serve sprinkled with basil.

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70

Italian Cuisine

Chicken Bouillabaisse
yield: Makes 6 servings

indgredients

Preheat oven to 375F. Sprinkle with salt and pepper: 6 chicken legs (split into drumsticks and thighs), skinned Heat in large wide ovenproof pan over medium-high heat: 3 tablespoons olive oil Add and saut until soft and golden, about 8 minutes: 1 onion, sliced Add and bring mixture to boil: 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads 2 4-inch-long orange peel strips (orange part only) 3/4 cup dry white wine Add and return mixture to boil: 1 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice 1 14-ounce can low-salt chicken broth

preparation
Add chicken pieces to pan in single layer, submerging in sauce; return mixture to boil. Cover pan and place in oven. Bake until chicken is cooked through, about 45 minutes. Remove chicken from oven; keep covered. Maintain oven temperature. Toast on a baking sheet until golden, about 12 minutes: 12 1/2-inch-thick baguette slices, brushed with olive oil Remove from oven. Spoon chicken and sauce into shallow bowls. Top each serving with 2 toasted baguette slices. Garnish with rouille, if desired.

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71

Italian Cuisine

Grilled Chicken with Mustard and Red Pepper


yield: Makes 6 servings

indgredients
2 tablespoons French Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon coarse-grain French Dijon mustard 1/4 teaspoon finely ground dried hot red pepper 2 eggs 6 chicken legs, thighs attached 1/2 cup fine homemade breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 375F. 2. In a small bowl, combine the mustards and red pepper; stir to blend. 3. Place the eggs in a shallow platter, and whisk lightly with a fork to blend. 4. Using a pastry brush, brush the mustard mixture all over the chicken legs and thighs. Dip them in the eggs, coating evenly on all sides. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, coating as evenly as possible. Place the chicken pieces side by side in a roasting pan. Dot with the butter. Place in the oven and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, basting frequently. The chicken is done when the juices run clear when pierced with a fork. Remove the chicken from the oven and transfer the pieces to a wire rack to help firm up the coating, about 5 minutes. 5. Serve hot or cold. This simple dish suggests a simple red, either a SaumurChampigny or a young Ctes-du-Rhne. I love Michel Richauds rich reds from the village of Cairanne.

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72

Italian Cuisine

Chicken in Riesling
yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 30 min total time: 1 hr

indgredients

1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2 pound), backbone discarded and chicken cut French style into 8 pieces (see cooks note, below) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 4 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped (2 cups) 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot 4 medium carrots, halved diagonally 1 cup dry white wine (preferably Alsatian Riesling) 1 1/2 pound small (2-inch) red potatoes 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1/2 cup crme frache or heavy cream Fresh lemon juice to taste

preparation
Preheat oven to 350F with rack in middle. Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and a rounded 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat oil with 1 tablespoon butter in a wide 3 1/2- to 5-quart heavy ovenproof pot over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then brown chicken in 2 batches, turning once, about 10 minutes total per batch. Transfer to a plate. Meanwhile, wash leeks and pat dry. Pour off fat from pot, then cook leeks, shallot, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until leeks are pale golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add chicken, skin sides up, with any juices from plate, carrots, and wine and boil until liquid is reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Cover pot and braise chicken in oven until cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. While chicken braises, peel potatoes, then generously cover with cold water in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander, then return to saucepan. Add parsley and shake to coat. Stir crme frache into chicken mixture and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, then add potatoes.
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73

Italian Cuisine

Classic Sole Meunire


yield: Makes 2 servings

indgredients
Fish: 1/2 cup all purpose flour 4 sole fillets (each about 3 to 4 ounces) Coarse kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or canola oil 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter Sauce: 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Lemon wedges

preparation
For fish: Place flour in pie dish. Rinse fish; pat with paper towels. Sprinkle both sides of fish with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Dredge fish on both sides with flour; shake off excess. Place on platter. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until oil is hot and shimmers. Add butter; quickly swirl skillet to coat. When foam subsides, add fish and cook until golden on bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully turn fish over and cook until opaque in center and golden on bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Divide fish between 2 warmed plates; tent with foil. Pour off drippings from skillet; wipe with paper towels. For sauce: Place skillet over medium-high heat. Add butter; cook until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in parsley and lemon juice (sauce may sputter). Spoon sauce over fish. Serve with lemon wedges.

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74

Italian Cuisine

Classic Coq au Vin


yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings

indgredients

Marinating chicken 1 750-ml bottle French Burgundy or California Pinot Noir 1 large onion, sliced 2 celery stalks, sliced 1 large carrot, peeled, sliced 1 large garlic clove, peeled, flattened 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 6-pound roasting chicken, backbone removed, cut into 8 pieces (2 drumsticks, 2 thighs, 2 wings with top quarter of adjoining breast, 2 breasts) Cooking chicken 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces thick-cut bacon slices, cut crosswise into strips 3 tablespoons all purpose flour 2 large shallots, chopped 2 large garlic cloves, chopped 4 large fresh thyme sprigs 4 large fresh parsley sprigs 2 small bay leaves 2 cups low-salt chicken broth 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter 1 pound assorted fresh wild mushrooms (such as crimini and stemmed shiitake) 20 1-inch-diameter pearl onions, or boiling onions, peeled Chopped fresh parsley

preparation

For marinating chicken: Combine wine, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and peppercorns in large pot. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 5 minutes. Cool completely; mix in oil. Place chicken pieces in large glass bowl. Pour wine mixture over chicken; stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 2 days, turning chicken occasionally. For cooking chicken: Using tongs, transfer chicken pieces from marinade to paper towels to drain; pat dry. Strain marinade; reserve vegetables and liquid separately. Heat oil in heavy large pot (wide enough to hold chicken in single layer) over medium-high heat. Add bacon and saut until crisp and brown. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to small bowl. Add chicken, skin side down, to drippings in pot. Saut until brown, about 8 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to large bowl. Add vegetables reserved from marinade to pot. Saut until brown, about 10 minutes. Mix in flour; stir 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in reserved marinade liquid. Bring to boil, whisking frequently. Cook until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 2 minutes. Mix in shallots, garlic, herb sprigs, and bay leaves, then broth. Return chicken to pot, arranging skin side up in single layer. Bring to simmer; reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pot and simmer chicken 30 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken over. Cover and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes longer. Meanwhile, melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms; saut until tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to plate. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet. Add onions and saut until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer onions to plate alongside mushrooms; reserve skillet. Using tongs, transfer chicken to plate. Strain sauce from pot into reserved skillet, pressing on solids in strainer to extract all sauce; discard solids. Bring sauce to simmer, scraping up browned bits. Return sauce to pot. Add onions to pot and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until onions are almost tender, about 8 minutes. Add mushrooms and bacon. Simmer uncovered until onions are very tender and sauce is slightly reduced, about 12 minutes. Tilt pot and spoon off excess fat from top of sauce. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Return chicken to sauce. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled.) Rewarm over low heat. Arrange chicken on large rimmed platter. Spoon sauce and vegetables over. Sprinkle with parsley.
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75

Italian Cuisine

Salmon Paillards with Lettuce and Pea Salad


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 45 min total time: 45

preparation
Stir together 2 tablespoons oil and 1/2 teaspoon zest in a bowl and set aside. Combine lemon juice, garlic, 1/8 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon zest in a small bowl, then add remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a slow stream, whisking until combined. Whisk in cream and chives.

indgredients
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 3/4 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon heavy cream 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives 6 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed and strings discarded (2 cups) 1/2 cup frozen baby peas (not thawed) 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced Boston lettuce (from 1 head) 4 (1/4-lb) pieces skinless center-cut salmon fillet (preferably wild)

Blanch sugar snaps in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan of boiling salted water , uncovered, until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer sugar snaps with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Keep cooking water at a boil. Once sugar snaps are cool, pat dry between paper towels. Cook baby peas in boiling water 5 minutes, then drain in a sieve and set sieve in ice water to stop cooking. Drain peas, then pat dry between paper towels. Cut sugar snaps diagonally into 1/4-inch-thick slices and transfer to a bowl, then toss with peas and lettuce. Preheat broiler. Arrange 1 fillet, skinned side down, between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and lightly sprinkle top of plastic with water (this helps pounder slide a little), then gently pound to an even 1/4-inch thickness with flat side of a meat pounder or with a rolling pin. Flatten remaining fillets in same manner and leave in plastic wrap. Lightly brush bottoms of 2 shallow baking pans with some lemon oil. Flip each paillard over and carefully peel off sheet of plastic wrap from skinned side, then invert fillets into baking pans (2 per pan). Carefully peel off remaining plastic wrap. Sprinkle fillets with remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, then brush with remaining lemon oil. Working in 2 batches, broil fillets 4 inches from heat until just cooked through, about 1 1/2 minutes per batch. Keep first batch warm, covered with foil, while cooking second batch. Toss salad with just enough dressing to coat. Carefully transfer paillards with a metal spatula to 4 plates and spoon salad on top.

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76

Italian Cuisine

Poached Salt Cod


yield: Serves 12 (as part of aoli menu) active time: 30 min total time: 2 days

indgredients

4 lb center-cut skinless boneless salt cod, rinsed well 3 quarts water 1 medium onion, halved 3 sprigs fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

preparation

Divide cod between 2 large bowls and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Soak cod, chilled, changing water 3 times a day, up to 3 days (see note below). Refrigerate until ready to use. Drain cod and transfer to a 6- to 8-quart pot with water, onion, thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring just to a simmer and remove from heat. (Cod will just flake; do not boil or it will become tough.) Gently transfer cod with a slotted spoon to a platter, discarding cooking liquid and seasonings. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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77

Italian Cuisine

Seared Cumin Sea Scallops with Cauliflower


yield: Serves 4 active time: 30 min total time: 30 min

indgredients
2 leeks, cut crosswise into 1/2-inchthick slices 1 1/4 pounds sea scallops, halved horizontally and patted dry 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 medium head cauliflower, cut into 1 1/2-inch florets 3 tablespoons dry white wine 1/4 cup water 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

preparation
Soak sliced leeks in a large bowl of water, agitating them occasionally to dislodge any sand, then drain leeks and pat them dry. Toss scallops with cumin seeds and salt and pepper to taste. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sear scallops until golden, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a bowl with tongs. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in skillet (do not clean) until hot but not smoking, then saut cauliflower and leeks with salt to taste, stirring until golden. Add wine and water and simmer, covered, until vegetables are almost tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add cream and scallops with juices in bowl and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in cilantro and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

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78

Italian Cuisine

Creamy Shellfish and Root Vegetable Stew


yield: Serves 12 (as part of aoli menu) active time: 30 min total time: 2 days

indgredients

2 1/2 cups bottled clam juice 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 12 littleneck clams, scrubbed 12 mussels, scrubbed, debearded 3/4 pound uncooked large shrimp, peeled, deveined, shells reserved 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter 1 cup finely chopped leek (white and pale green parts only) 1 medium potato, peeled, cut into 1/2inch pieces 1 cup chopped peeled celery root 1/3 cup Calvados 3/4 pound bay scallops 1/2 cup crme frache 3 large egg yolks 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

preparation

Bring clam juice and wine to simmer in heavy large pot. Add clams, then mussels to pot. Cover; cook until shellfish begin to open, about 2 minutes for mussels and about 8 minutes for clams. Using slotted spoon, transfer shellfish to large bowl as they open. Discard any that do not open after 12 minutes. Reserve liquid in pot. Add shrimp shells to cooking liquid. Cover and simmer over low heat 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain liquid into 4-cup glass measuring cup. Discard solids. Melt butter in clean large pot over low heat. Add leek. Cover; cook until leek is tender, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add potato and celery root. Pour in reserved cooking liquid, leaving any sediment in measuring cup. Add Calvados. Bring to simmer. Cover and simmer until potato is almost tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Stir in shrimp and scallops. Cover; simmer 2 minutes. Whisk crme frache, egg yolks and lemon juice in small bowl to blend. Stir into stew. Return clams and mussels to pot. Cover and cook without boiling until shrimp and scallops are just cooked through, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among bowls. Sprinkle parsley over.
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79

Italian Cuisine

Short Ribs Provenale


yield: Makes 6 servings

preparation
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F.

indgredients
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6 pounds individual short ribs (not cross-cut flanken) 3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 1 celery rib, finely chopped 12 garlic cloves, peeled 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups hearty red wine, such as Zinfandel or Shiraz 1 3/4 cups beef stock, preferably homemade, or reduced-sodium chicken broth One 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice, drained 1 bay leaf 8 ounces baby-cut carrots 1/2 cup Mediterranean black olives, such as Nioise, pitted 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for garnish
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2. Heat the oil in a large (at least 6-quart) Dutch oven or flameproof casserole over medium-high heat. Season the short ribs with the salt and pepper. In batches, without crowding, add the short ribs to the pot and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the ribs to a platter. 3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pot. Add the onion, chopped carrot, and celery to the pot and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, herbes de Provence, and flour and stir until the garlic gives off its aroma, about 1 minute. Stir in the wine and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the broth, tomatoes, and bay leaf. Return the short ribs, and any juices, to the pot. Add cold water as needed to barely reach the top of the ribs and bring to a boil over high heat. 4. Cover tightly, transfer to the oven, and bake, stirring occasionally to change the position of the ribs, until the meat is falling-off-the-bone tender, about 2 1/2 hours. During the last 15 minutes, add the baby carrots. 5. Transfer the short ribs to a deep serving platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Skim off the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid, and discard the bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the liquid is reduced to a sauce consistency, about 10 minutes (the exact time depends on the size of the pot). Add the olives and cook to heat them through, about 3 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. 6. Spoon the sauce with the carrots over the ribs, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve hot.

80

Italian Cuisine

Oxtail Bourguinonne
yield: yield: 6 servings active time: 1 hour total time: 4 hours

indgredients

8 slices fatty bacon, chopped Olive oil 3 large fresh Italian parsley sprigs 3 large fresh thyme sprigs 2 large fresh bay leaves, bruised 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 4 to 4 1/4 pounds meaty oxtail pieces, trimmed of excess fat 2 cups chopped onions 1 cup diced carrot plus 6 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch chunks 4 large garlic cloves, peeled; 1 minced, 3 left whole 1 3/4 cups beef broth 1 1/2 cups red Burgundy wine (such as Beaujolais) 1 pound crimini (baby bella) mushrooms, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices 12 small (1-inch-diameter) shallots, blanched 1 minute, peeled

preparation

Cook bacon in heavy large pot over medium-high heat until brown and crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to plate. Pour drippings into small bowl. Return 6 tablespoons drippings to pot (add olive oil, if necessary, to measure 6 tablespoons total; reserve bacon for another use). Tie parsley, thyme, and bay leaves together for bouquet garni. Stir 1 tablespoon flour and butter in small bowl to smooth paste. Whisk 1 1/2 cups flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and nutmeg in medium bowl. Add oxtails, a few pieces at a time, to seasoned flour and toss to coat. Heat bacon drippings in pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add oxtails and brown on all sides, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer oxtails to bowl after each batch. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add chopped onions, diced carrot, and minced garlic to pot. Saut until onions soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Return oxtails and any accumulated juices to pot. Add bouquet garni, then broth and wine. Bring to boil. Cover and simmer until meat is almost tender, adjusting heat occasionally to maintain gentle simmer, about 3 hours. Mix in mushrooms, shallots, carrot chunks, and whole garlic cloves. Increase heat and return to boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover pot and simmer gently until meat and vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes longer. Tilt pot and spoon off any fat that rises to surface. Stir flour paste into stew. Simmer uncovered until sauce thickens slightly, stirring occasionally, 6 to 8 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cool 1 hour. Refrigerate uncovered until cold, then cover and keep refrigerated. rewarm over low heat before serving.

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81

Italian Cuisine

Beef Cheeks Braised in Red Wine with Orange Zest


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 45 min total time: 3 1/4 hr

indgredients
2 pounds beef cheeks or boneless beef chuck roast 2 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil 1 pound onions, coarsely chopped 1 pound baby carrots, peeled 1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine 6 to 8 (3- by 1-inch) strips of orange zest

preparation
Preheat oven to 350F. with rack in middle. If using chuck, cut across grain into 4 pieces. Pat beef dry and season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Heat oil in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Brown beef on all sides, 6 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a plate with tongs. Add onions, carrots, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add wine and zest and bring to a boil. Add beef and return to a boil. Cover pot and braise in oven until meat is very tender, 2 to 4 hours (beef cheeks take longer than chuck). Season with salt and pepper. Serve beef with carrots and sauce.

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82

Italian Cuisine

Blade Steaks with Mushroom-Madeira Sauce


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 10 min total time: 20 min

indgredients

1 1/2 pound top blade beef chuck steaks 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 shallot, chopped 2 (4 ounce) packages sliced fresh mushrooms 1/2 cup Madeira 3/4 cup water 1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water

preparation

Pat steaks dry and cut 3 shallow slits across center cartilage in each steak (to prevent curling), then sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper (total). Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over mediumhigh heat until it shimmers, then saut steaks, turning once, 5 to 9 minutes total for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate and keep warm, covered. Add shallot and remaining tablespoon oil to skillet and saut over medium-high heat 30 seconds. Add mushrooms and saut until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in Madeira, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and briskly simmer 2 minutes. Stir in water and any meat juices from plate and boil 2 minutes. Stir cornstarch mixture, then stir into mushrooms and simmer until thickened, about 1 minute. Season sauce with salt and spoon over steaks.

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83

Italian Cuisine

Beef Braised in Red Wine


yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings active time: 1 1/4 hr total time: 1 day

indgredients
2 lb boneless beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine (preferably Burgundy or Ctes du Rhne) 2 medium onions, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced lengthwise (2 cups) 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 1 Turkish bay leaf or 1/2 California 4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley plus 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves 1 carrot, thinly sliced 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large shallots, finely chopped 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 6 oz thick-sliced bacon (preferably from slab bacon, rind removed if necessary; not smoked) 1 (10-oz) package pearl onions (2 1/2 cups) 1/4 cup water Special equipment: parchment paper Accompaniment: buttered egg noodles

preparation
Put beef, wine, onion, thyme, bay leaf, parsley sprigs, and carrot in a large resealable plastic bag. Seal bag, pressing out excess air, and put in a bowl. Marinate beef, chilled, 16 to 24 hours. Drain beef in a colander set over a large bowl, reserving marinade. Wipe off any solids clinging to beef, then pat beef dry. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350F. Heat oil in a 3 1/2- to 4-quart heavy ovenproof pot with lid over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown beef well in 2 batches, without crowding, about 8 minutes per batch, transferring as browned with a slotted spoon to a plate. Reduce heat to moderate, then add shallot and garlic and cook, stirring, until shallot begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until shallot and flour are browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add reserved marinade liquid to flour mixture, stirring and scraping up brown bits. Add beef along with any juices accumulated on plate and cover with a round of par chment paper and lid. Simmer mixture while you prepare bacon. Cut bacon slices crosswise into 1/4-inch strips and cook in an 8-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and bacon is beginning to crisp. Transfer bacon with slotted spoon to beef (reserve fat in skillet). Re-cover beef with parchment and lid and braise in oven, 1 1/2 hours. While meat is braising, blanch pearl onions in a 3- to 4-quart pot of boiling water, 1 minute. Drain onions in a colander, then peel, leaving root ends intact. Cook onions in reserved bacon fat in skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour off excess fat, then add 1/4 cup water and scrape up brown bits with a wooden spoon or spatula. After meat has braised 1 1/2 hours, add pearl onions (with liquid in skillet), remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to beef and continue to braise, covered with parchment and lid, until onions are tender and meat is very tender, about 1/2 hour more. Skim any fat from surface of beef and serve beef with buttered egg noodles sprinkled with chopped fresh parsley leaves.

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84

Italian Cuisine

Pot-au-Feu
yield: Makes 8 servings active time: 1 1/2 hr total time: 5 1/4 hr

preparation
indgredients
4 pound tied bone-in beef chuck roast 4 pound (2- to 3-inch) bone-in short ribs 2 onions, quartered 2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise 6 quarts water 2 (3-inch) pieces celery 6 parsley sprigs 6 thyme sprigs 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 whole clove 8 small or 4 medium leeks (2 1/2 pounds) 1 pound small boiling onions (about 20), left unpeeled 8 (2-inch-long) veal marrowbones (optional) 8 small carrots (1 pound), peeled and trimmed, leaving 1/2 inch of stems 1 pound small turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges Equipment: Equipment: a 12-quart pot; cheesecloth; kitchen string Accompaniments: toasted baguette slices for marrow; coarse salt; Dijon mustard; finely grated fresh or bottled horseradish; cornichons Garnish: chopped parsley

Cook meats: Preheat convection oven to 425F or regular oven to 450F with rack in middle. Pat meats dry, then rub with 2 1/2 teaspoons salt (total) and arrange in 1 layer in a large shallow baking pan with quartered onions and halved carrots. Roast, turning occasionally, until meats and vegetables are well browned, 35 to 45 minutes in convection oven; 45 minutes to 1 hour in regular oven. Transfer meats and vegetables to pot with any juices from pan. Deglaze pan with a little water, scraping up brown bits, then add to pot with water (6 quarts) and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, skimming foam and fat from surface. Tie celery, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, and clove in a cheesecloth bundle and add to pot. Cut off dark green part from leeks, reserving remainder, and wash . Fold greens and tie in 2 bunches, then add to pot. Gently simmer, uncovered, skimming as necessary, until meats are very tender, about 3 hours. Prepare leeks and onions while meats simmer: Trim roots from leeks, keeping ends intact, then, starting 1 1/2 inches from root end, slit each leek lengthwise and wash between layers. Tie leeks together in 2 bunches, tying each bunch in 2 places. Blanch boiling onions in a medium pot of boiling water 1 minute, then drain and peel. Cook meats: Preheat oven to 200F with rack in lower third. Transfer meats to a shallow baking pan, discarding bones from short ribs, and keep warm, covered with foil, in oven. Discard cheesecloth bundle, leek greens, and cooked onions and carrots from broth, then skim off fat from broth with a skimmer or large spoon and keep broth warm over low heat. Arrange marrowbones (if using) upright in 1 layer in a medium saucepan and add enough broth from pot (about 1 quart) to cover bones. Add 1 teaspoon salt and simmer gently, uncovered, until marrow is soft, 15 to 20 minutes. While marrowbones cook, simmer boiling onions and leeks with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in remaining broth in large pot, uncovered, 15 minutes. Add small carrots and turnips and simmer, uncovered, until all vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Serve pot-au-feu: Transfer marrowbones with tongs to a platter (discard liquid) and serve with baguette slices and coarse salt. Discard bone from chuck roast and slice chuck 1/2 inch thick, then arrange, along with meat from short ribs, on a large platter. Transfer vegetables to platter with a slotted spoon and cut string off leeks. Season broth with salt and pepper, then spoon some over meats and vegetables to moisten and serve remainder in a soup tureen. To eat, ladle broth over meats and vegetables in soup plates, then stir in horseradish and mustard to taste. page

85

Italian Cuisine

Croques-Monsieur
yield: yield: Makes 2 servings active time: 20 min total time: 20 min

indgredients
1 cup sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated 3 oz Canadian bacon, sliced 4 slices firm white bread 2 large eggs 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

preparation
Arrange half of cheese, then all of bacon on 2 slices of bread. Top with remaining cheese and bread. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a shallow dish. Dip sandwiches in egg mixture, carefully turning over several times and pressing lightly, until all of egg mixture is absorbed. Heat butter in a 10-inch skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides. Transfer sandwiches with a spatula to skillet and cook until golden brown on bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn over sandwiches, pressing lightly, and cook until golden brown on bottom, 3 to 4 minutes more.

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86

Italian Cuisine

Sliced Baked Ham with Camembert Sauce


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 10 min total time: 2o min

indgredients
1/2 cup heavy cream

1 1/2 pounds thick-sliced good-quality baked ham such as Virginia 1 firm-ripe Camembert, chilled, rind discarded and cheese coarsely chopped 1 large egg yolk Accompaniments: Broccolini or green beans

preparation

Preheat oven to 350F with rack in middle. Overlap ham slices on a baking sheet and cover with foil. Bake until just heated through, 8 to 10 minutes. Bring cream to a simmer, then whisk in cheese until smooth. (If necessary, pure in a blender, then reheat.) Whisk in yolk and cook, whisking, 1 minute. Serve ham with sauce.

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87

Italian Cuisine

Roasted Pork Chops with Hard Cider Jus


yield: Makes 8 servings active time: 30 min total time: 45 min

indgredients
8 (1-inch-thick) rib pork chops (4 lb total) 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 lb large shallots (8), bulbs separated if necessary and each bulb halved lengthwise 1 cup hard cider Special equipment: an instant-read thermometer

preparation
Preheat oven to 450F. Pat pork chops dry and sprinkle both sides with sea salt and pepper. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown chops in 3 batches, turning once, 6 minutes per batch, and transfer with tongs to a large shallow baking pan (1 inch deep). Add shallots and remaining tablespoon butter to skillet and cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until golden brown and tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add cider and boil, stirring and scraping up brown bits, until reduced to about 3/4 cup, about 3 minutes. Spoon shallots and sauce around chops and roast in lower third of oven until thermometer inserted horizontally into center of 1 chop (do not touch bone) registers 150F, 7 to 9 minutes. Let chops stand, loosely covered with foil, 5 minutes (temperature will rise to 155F while standing). Serve chops with shallots and sauce.

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88

Italian Cuisine

Veal Cordon Bleu


yield: Makes 4 servings active time: 25 min total time: 2 hr

indgredients
about 2 1/2 oz each) 1 (1/2-lb) piece Gruyre

8 (1/8-inch-thick) veal cutlets (also called scaloppine; all the same size,

preparation

If cutlets are thicker than 1/8 inch, pound them between sheets of plastic wrap with flat side of meat pounder. Using cheese plane, shave enough cheese to make a double layer for each of 4 cutlets. Pat dry 2 cutlets of the same shape and arrange 1 cutlet on a work surface. Put 1 slice of ham on cutlet, trimming ham to leave a 1/4inch border of veal around the ham, then arrange a double layer of cheese on ham and top with second cutlet. Lightly pound 1/4-inch border around cutlets outer edges to seal veal sandwich. Make 3 more sandwiches in same manner. Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Stir together bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a large shallow baking dish. Stir together flour, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in another large baking dish. Whisk together eggs, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a third large baking dish. Dredge 1 veal sandwich in flour, knocking off excess, then dip in egg to coat, letting excess drip off, and dredge in bread crumbs, patting to help them adhere. Transfer coated sandwich to a rack set on a baking sheet. Dredge and coat remaining sandwiches in same manner. Chill, uncovered, 1 hour, and let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before cooking. Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides. Add 2 veal sandwiches, then reduce heat to moderate and cook, turning over once, until golden, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to plates and wipe out skillet with paper towels. Cook remaining sandwiches in remaining butter and oil in same manner.
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4 (1/8-inch-thick) slices baked ham such as Virginia 1 cup plain dry bread crumbs 2 teaspoons salt 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons olive oil Special equipment: a meat pounder; a cheese plane Garnish: lemon wedges; fresh parsley sprigs

89

Italian Cuisine

Cantal Cheese Tart


yield: Makes 8 servings

indgredients
Crust: 1 1/4 cups all purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) chilled unsalted butter, diced 3 tablespoons (or more) ice water Filling: 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/2 cup chopped shallots (about 2 large) 1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream 3 large eggs 1/8 teaspoon (scant) freshly ground black pepper 1/8 teaspoon (scant) freshly grated nutmeg Pinch of salt 2 cups coarsely grated rindless Cantal cheese (about 7 ounces)

preparation
For crust: Blend flour and salt in processor 5 seconds. Add butter and cut in, using on/ off turns, until very coarse meal forms. Add 3 tablespoons ice water. Blend until moist clumps form, adding more water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic. Chill at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 12- to 13-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Cut off all but 1/2-inch overhang. Fold overhang in and press so that sides of dough rise 1/4 to 1/3 inch above rim of pan. Freeze crust 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 375F. Line crust with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake crust until sides are set, about 25 minutes. Remove foil and beans. Bake crust until pale golden, piercing with fork if crust bubbles, about 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350F. Cool crust. For filling: Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add shallots. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Saut until soft and beginning to color, about 4 minutes. Spread shallots in crust. Whisk cream, eggs, pepper, nutmeg, and salt in medium bowl. Mix in cheese. Pour custard into crust. Bake until filling is set in center, 35 to 38 minutes. Transfer tart to rack and cool 15 to 30 minutes. Push up pan bottom, releasing tart. Serve tart warm or at room temperature.

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90

Italian Cuisine

Mushroom and Fontina Quiche


yield: Makes 8 servings active time: 25 minutes total time: 1 hour 55 minutes

indgredients
ounce package)

1 refrigerated pie crust (half of 152 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter 2/3 cup chopped shallots (about 3 medium) 5 cups sliced assorted mushrooms (such as chanterelle, stemmed shiitake, oyster, crimini, and button; 12 to 14 ounces), large mushrooms halved 4 large eggs 2/3 cup half and half 1/3 cup whole milk 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg 1 1/2 cups (packed) coarsely grated Fontina cheese (about 7 ounces), divided

preparation

Preheat oven to 450F. Unroll crust completely. Press firmly onto bottom and up sides of 9-inch-diameter deep-dish glass pie dish. Bake until light golden brown, pressing on sides of crust with back of spoon if crust begins to slide down sides of dish, about 17 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325F. Meanwhile, melt butter in heavy large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add shallots; saut until beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms; sprinkle with salt and pepper and saut until mushrooms are tender and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer to plate; spread out to cool slightly. Whisk eggs, half and half, milk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg in large bowl to blend. Stir in 1 cup Fontina cheese and sauted mushrooms. Pour filling into crust. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup cheese over quiche. Bake quiche until puffed, golden brown, and just set in center, about 45 minutes. Cool 30 minutes. Cut into wedges.

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91

Italian Cuisine

Oven-Dried Tomato Tart with Goat Cheese and Black Olives


yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings

indgredients
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 6 medium tomatoes or large romas, cored, halved crosswise, seeded 2 small garlic cloves, thinly slivered 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, divided 1 sheet frozen puff pastry (half of 17.3-ounce package), thawed 1 cup coarsely grated whole-milk mozzarella cheese 1/2 cup soft fresh goat cheese (about 4 ounces) 2 large eggs 1/4 cup whipping cream 1/3 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

preparation
Preheat oven to 300F. Line rimmed baking sheet with foil; brush foil with 1 tablespoon oil. Place tomato halves, cut side up, on baking sheet. Sprinkle garlic and 1 tablespoon thyme over tomatoes; drizzle remaining 1/4 cup oil over. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake until tomatoes begin to shrink and are slightly dried but still soft, about 2 hours. Cool tomatoes on sheet. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Store in single layer in covered container in refrigerator.) Roll out pastry on lightly floured surface to 13-inch square. Transfer pastry to 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom, pressing pastry firmly onto bottom and sides of pan. Trim overhang to 3/4 inch. Fold overhang in and press, pushing crust 1/4 inch above pan. Pierce crust all over with fork; chill 30 minutes. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375F. Line pastry with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until crust is set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and beans; bake until crust edges are golden, piercing with fork if crust bubbles, about 12 minutes longer. Cool crust 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350F. Meanwhile, using fork, mash mozzarella cheese, goat cheese, and remaining 1 tablespoon thyme together in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add eggs and cream and stir until mixture is well blended. Spread cheese filling evenly in crust. Arrange tomato halves in filling, cut side up. Place olives between tomatoes. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese evenly over top. Bake until filling is puffed and set, about 35 minutes. Cool 5 minutes. Push up pan bottom, releasing sides. Serve tart warm.

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92

Italian Cuisine

Pasta Frittata with Broccoli Rabe and Sun-Dried Tomatoes


yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings active time: 20 minutes total time: 45 minutes

indgredients
1/2 lb dried linguine (4 cups) 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and thinly sliced (1 tablespoon) 6 large eggs 1 1/2 oz finely grated ParmigianoReggiano (3/4 cup) 1/4 cup whole milk 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 lb broccoli rabe, coarsely chopped

preparation

Put oven rack in upper third of oven and preheat oven to 400F. Cook pasta in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water according to package instructions; 2 minutes before pasta is done cooking, add broccoli rabe and cook 2 minutes. Drain pasta and broccoli rabe and pat dry. Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy ovenproof nonstick skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add pasta, broccoli rabe, and tomatoes and saut, stirring frequently, 2 minutes. Whisk together eggs, cheese, milk, salt, and pepper and pour over pasta mixture. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until frittata is set (eggs should be just firm), 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer frittata to a cutting board and cut into wedges.

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93

Italian Cuisine

Potato Pizza
yield: Makes 4 servings

indgredients
One recipe for bread dough: 3/4 cup lukewarm water 1 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 2 1/2 cups flour 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil For the topping: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, green germ removed, thinly sliced 3 medium, waxy potatoes (about 14 ounces), peeled, cooked, and thinly sliced into rounds 1/2 cup heavy cream or crme frache 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

preparation
1. Make the dough and let it rise until double in bulk, about 1 hour. Dust a baking sheet with semolina flour. Roll out the dough to an 18 x 12 inch rectangle, and fit it onto the baking sheet. Let the dough rise for 20 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 425F. 3. Brush the dough with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, then sprinkle it with the garlic slices. Cover it with the potato slices, then drizzle those with the remaining olive oil and the cream. Sprinkle it with the fresh thyme leaves, crushing them as you sprinkle, and season it liberally with pepper, and lightly with salt. 4. Bake in the center of the oven until the dough is golden at the edges and the cream is bubbling gently, about 35 minutes. Remove, let sit for 5 minutes, then cut and serve.

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94

Italian Cuisine

Spaghetti with Mushrooms, Zucchini, and Tarragon


yield: Makes 4 servings

indgredients
Olive oil 1 pound zucchini, trimmed, diced 1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 2 pounds mushrooms, sliced 21/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 3 large garlic cloves, minced 12 ounces spaghetti, freshly cooked 2 large tomatoes, chopped

preparation

Brush large deep nonstick skillet with oil; heat over mediumhigh heat. Add zucchini and crushed red pepper; saut until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl. Brush skillet again with oil; heat over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms; saut until brown and tender, adding water by tablespoonfuls as needed if mushrooms stick to skillet, about 18 minutes. Add zucchini mixture, herbs, and garlic; stir 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add pasta and tomatoes to mushroom mixture; toss to blend, adding water by 1/4 cupfuls if mixture is dry. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl.

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95

Italian Cuisine

Broccoli Garlic Quiche


yield: Serves 6 to 8 active time: 40 min total time: 4 1/2 hr

indgredients
All-butter pastry dough 10 ounces (1-inch-wide) broccoli florets (with 1 to 2 inches of stem attached) 2 large garlic cloves 6 large eggs 1 1/2 cups half-and-half 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 5 ounces extra-sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (2 cups) 1/4 cup grated ParmigianoReggiano Equipment: a 9 1/2-inch deepdish pie plate or a 9-inch (2-inchdeep) round fluted tart pan with removable bottom; pie weights or dried beans

preparation
Preheat oven to 375F with rack in middle. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 13-inch round. Fit dough into pie plate, letting excess hang over edge. Fold overhang inward and press against side of pie plate to reinforce edge. Prick bottom all over with a fork. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes. Line pie shell with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until pastry is set and edge is pale golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Carefully remove foil and weights, then bake shell until deep golden all over, 15 to 20 minutes more. Put pie plate in a 4-sided sheet pan. Leave oven on. While shell bakes, cook broccoli in a 3-quart pot of boiling salted water 4 minutes. Drain broccoli and rinse under cold water to stop cooking, then pat dry. Mince and mash garlic to a paste with a generous pinch of salt. Whisk together garlic paste, eggs, half-and-half, nutmeg, cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a large bowl until smooth. Pour filling into pie shell and add broccoli, then sprinkle with cheeses. Bake quiche until custard is just set, 45 to 50 minutes. (Center will tremble slightly; filling will continue to set as it cools.) Cool at least 20 minutes.

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Serve quiche warm or at room temperature.

96

Italian Cuisine

Swiss Chard, Raisin, and Pine Nut Tart


yield: active time: 40 min total time: 4 1/4 hr

indgredients
1/2 cup golden raisins 1 cup water 2 pounds green Swiss chard, stems and center ribs discarded 1 large egg 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange zest 1/3 cup pine nuts (1 1/2 ounces), toasted Pastry dough for a double-crust pie 2 teaspoons confectioners sugar Special equipment: an 11- by 8- by 1-inch rectangular tart pan with a removable bottom

preparation

Bring raisins and water to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan, then remove from heat and let stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain in a colander, then pat dry with paper towels. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400F. Blanch chard in a large pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes. Transfer chard with a slotted spoon to a large bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain chard in a colander, then squeeze out excess water by handfuls. Coarsely chop chard. Whisk together egg, cream, granulated sugar, zest, and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Stir in pine nuts, raisins, and chard until combined. Roll out larger piece of dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 15- by 11-inch rectangle and fit into tart pan (do not trim edges). Chill shell while rolling out top. Roll out smaller piece of dough on a lightly floured surface with lightly floured rolling pin into a 12- by 9-inch rectangle. Spread chard filling evenly into shell, then top with second rectangle of dough. Using a rolling pin, roll over edges of pan to seal tart and trim edges, discarding scraps. Cut 3 steam vents in top crust with a paring knife, then put tart in pan on a baking sheet. Bake until top is golden, about 1 hour. Transfer to a rack and cool 10 minutes, then remove side of pan. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Dust with confectioners sugar.

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97

Italian Cuisine

Gruyre Fondue with Caramelized Shallots


yield: Makes 4 servings

indgredients
1 tablespoon butter 1 1/4 cups thinly sliced shallots (about 6 ounces) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 1/2 cups (or more) dry white wine 14 ounces grated Gruy(re cheese (about 3 1/2 cups packed) 2 tablespoons all purpose flour Generous pinch of ground nutmeg 1 sourdough baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes

preparation
Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add thinly sliced shallots and saut 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low; sprinkle shallots with sugar, salt and pepper. Saut until shallots are caramelized, about 15 minutes. Transfer shallots to small bowl. Add 1 1/2 cups wine to skillet; boil 1 minute. Pour wine into heavy medium saucepan; set over mediumlow heat. Toss cheese with flour in medium bowl to coat. Add half of caramelized shallots to wine; add cheese mixture by handfuls, stirring until cheese melts and is smooth before adding more. Thin with more wine if mixture is too thick. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Transfer cheese mixture to fondue pot. Set pot over candle or canned heat burner. Top fondue with remaining caramelized shallots. Serve with bread cubes.

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98

Italian Cuisine

Ratatouille
yield: Serves 8

indgredients
2 cups chopped onions into 1-inch cubes 4 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 1-pound eggplants, unpeeled, cut

2 zucchini, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 yellow bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 3/4 pounds ripe tomatoes, seeded, coarsely chopped (about 6 cups) 3 fresh thyme sprigs 1 fresh rosemary sprig 1 bay leaf 1/4 cup minced fresh basil

preparation

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions and saut until tender, about 10 minutes. Add eggplants and garlic; saut 5 minutes. Add zucchini and bell peppers; saut 5 minutes. Mix in tomatoes, thyme, rosemary and bay leaf. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender and flavors have blended, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes. Discard bay leaf; stir in basil. Season ratatouille generously with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl. (Can be prepared 8 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Serve cold, warm or hot.

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99

Italian Cuisine

French Macaroons with Raspberry-Rose Buttercream


yield: Makes about 3 dozen sandwich cookies active time: 1 hour 30 minutes total time: 15 hours 30 minutes

indgredients
Cookies: 2 cups powdered sugar 1 cup (lightly packed) sifted almond flour, or 3/4 cup sifted almond flour and 1/4 cup sifted hazelnut flour (sifted, then measured; any coarse particles reserved for another use) 1/2 cup (scant) egg whites (from about 3 large eggs) 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon sugar Filling: 4 cups frozen raspberries (about 15 ounces; do not thaw) 1 cup plus 6 tablespoons sugar, divided 1/4 cup egg whites (from about 2 large eggs), room temperature 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, room temperature 1/4 teaspoon (generous) rose water Special Equipment: Pastry bag 1/4-inch-diameter plain pastry tip Heavy-duty stand mixer Candy thermometer
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preparation
Cookies Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment. Sift powdered sugar, almond flour, and hazelnut flour (if using) into large bowl. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites, sugar, and pinch of salt in medium bowl until medium peaks form. Add egg white mixture to almond mixture; fold to incorporate. Working in 2 batches, fill pastry bag fitted with 1/4-inch-diameter plain pastry tip with batter (batter will be thin and will drip from bag). Pipe batter in 11/4-inch rounds on baking sheets, spacing 1 inch apart (cookies will spread slightly). Let rest on sheets at room temperature 20 minutes. Position 1 rack in top third and 1 rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 375F. Bake cookies 5 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325F. Continue to bake cookies until puffed and golden on top, about 10 minutes, reversing sheets after 5 minutes. Cool cookies on sheets on rack. Carefully peel cookies from parchment. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Store in airtight container at room temperature. Filling Bring raspberries and 1 cup sugar to boil in large saucepan over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cook until berries are soft, juices thicken, and mixture measures about 1 1/2 cups, stirring frequently, 7 to 9 minutes. Measure 1/2 cup mixture; strain into small bowl. Cool strained jam and jam with seeds separately. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 week ahead. Cover jams separately and chill. Combine egg whites, 6 tablespoons sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in bowl of heavyduty stand mixer. Set bowl over large saucepan of simmering water. Heat until candy thermometer inserted into mixture registers 140F, stirring often, 3 to 4 minutes. Using whisk attachment, beat egg white mixture at high speed until stiff meringue forms and mixture is at room temperature, 5 to 6 minutes. With mixer running, add butter, 1 piece at a time, beating until each piece is incorporated before adding next. Beat in rose water. Add 3 tablespoons seedless jam, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating to blend well after each addition. (If buttercream looks broken or curdled, place bowl over medium heat and whisk 5 to 10 seconds to warm slightly, then remove from heat and beat again on medium speed. Repeat warming and beating as many times as needed until buttercream is smooth.) Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Using 1/2 teaspoon jam with seeds for each, spread jam over flat side of half of macaroons. Spoon buttercream into pastry bag fitted with 1/4-inch plain tip. Starting at outer edge of flat sides of remaining macaroons, pipe buttercream over in spiral. Gently press macaroons, jam- filled side down, onto buttercream-coated macaroons. Place on sheet. Cover; chill overnight. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 to 3 days ahead. Store in airtight container in refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before serving.

100

Italian Cuisine

Baked French Toast


yield: Makes 6 servings active time: 10 min total time: 45 min

indgredients
a long diagonal) 2 tablespoons hot water 3 cups whole milk 3 large eggs

12 (1-inch-thick) baguette slices (cut on 3 tablespoons instant-espresso powder

preparation

Preheat oven to 400F with rack in middle and generously butter a 13- by 9-inch shallow baking dish or pan (3-quart; preferably glass or ceramic). Arrange bread in 1 layer in baking dish. Dissolve espresso powder in hot water in a large bowl. Whisk in milk, eggs, vanilla, and 1/2 cup sugar until smooth. Pour custard over bread, then turn slices over several times so they soak up as much custard as possible. Sprinkle top with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake until puffed and set, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in dish on a rack 10 minutes, then dust with cinnamon.

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided Cinnamon for dusting Accompaniment: whipped cream

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101

Italian Cuisine

French Apple-Almond Tart


yield: Serves 10 to 12

indgredients
For crust 2 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons Calvados or brandy 1 1/4 cups all purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces For filling 1 1/4 cups blanched slivered almonds 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 2 large eggs 3 tablespoons Calvados or brandy 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon almond extract 1/4 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 3 tart green apples, peeled, quartered, cored, cut into 1/8-inchthick wedges 1/4 cup apricot preserves

preparation
Make crust: Stir egg yolks and Calvados in small bowl to blend. Combine flour, sugar and salt in processor. Add butter; cut in, using on/off turns, until butter is size of small peas. With machine running, add yolk mixture. Process until large moist clumps form. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap dough in plastic; refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Let soften slightly before rolling out.) Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 14-inch round. Transfer to 11-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Fold overhang in and press, forming double-thick sides. Chill while making filling. Make filling: Combine almonds, 3/4 cup sugar, eggs, 1 tablespoon Calvados, extracts and salt in processor. Blend until soft paste forms. Add 4 tablespoons butter; blend 10 seconds. Spread in crust. Chill until firm, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, stir apples, 1 tablespoon Calvados and 1 tablespoon sugar in large bowl. Let stand 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400F. Drain apples; overlap in concentric circles atop filling. Melt 2 tablespoons butter; brush over apples. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake tart 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350F. Bake until apples are tender, about 45 minutes. Transfer to rack. Stir preserves and 1 tablespoon Calvados in small saucepan over low heat until preserves melt. Strain into small bowl; brush over apples. Cool. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

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Italian Cuisine

French Apple Cake


yield: Serves 8

indgredients
1 3/4 cups sugar 1/3 cup water

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

preparation

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 large Granny Smith apples (about 1 1/4 pounds), peeled, cored, thinly sliced 1 cup all purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 large egg yolks 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons Calvados, applejack or other brandy 2 teaspoons vanilla 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350F. Butter 9-inch-diameter cake pan with 2-inch-high sides. Coat pan with sugar; tap out excess. Melt 1/4 cup butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in 3/4 cup sugar, water and cinnamon and bring to boil. Add apples and cook until apples are just tender, turning frequently, about 15 minutes. Remove apples, using slotted spoon, and arrange decoratively in bottom of pan. Continue boiling liquid in skillet until thick and syrupy, about 4 minutes. Pour over apples. Sift flour, baking powder and salt into small bowl. Whisk remaining 1 cup sugar, egg yolks, eggs, Calvados and vanilla in large bowl to blend. Gently stir in dry ingredients. Fold in 1/2 cup melted butter. Pour batter over apples in pan. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool cake in pan 5 minutes. Run small sharp knife around side of pan to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Italian Cuisine

Lemon Custards with Lemon Verbena


yield: Serves 6

indgredients
1 cup water 14 2- to 2 1/2-inch-long fresh or dried lemon verbena leaves (optional) 10 2 x 1/2-inch strips lemon peel (yellow part only) 6 tablespoons sugar 1 1/2 cups whipping cream 6 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

preparation
Preheat oven to 325F. Combine first 3 ingredients in medium saucepan. Boil until mixture is reduced to 1/2 cup, about 4 minutes. Add sugar; simmer until mixture is reduced to 1/3 cup, about 3 minutes. Stir in cream. Whisk yolks to blend in medium bowl. Gradually whisk in hot cream mixture. Whisk in lemon juice. Strain custard through sieve into 4-cup measuring cup. Divide among six 2-cup ramekins or souffl dishes. Cover ramekins with foil. Place ramekins in 13 x 9 x 2-inch metal baking pan. Add enough hot water to pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins. Bake custards until just set, about 45 minutes. Remove pan from oven; let custards cool in water in pan. Transfer ramekins to refrigerator. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight. Serve chilled.

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Italian Cuisine

Walnut Crepes with Raspberries and Dried Figs


yield: Serves 6

indgredients

For filling 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 1/2 cups chopped dried Calimyrna figs 1 12-ounce package frozen sweetened raspberries (not packed in syrup), thawed, juice reserved 1 cup Muscat wine 1 cup water 1/4 cup (packed) dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons orange peel For crepes 1 cup (or more) whole milk 1 cup all purpose flour 3 large eggs 1/4 cup chopped walnuts 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon grated orange peel 1/4 teaspoon salt Additional melted butter Additional sugar 1 8-ounce container crme frache* 2 tablespoons honey

preparation

Make filling: Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into heavy medium saucepan; add bean. Add figs, raspberries with juices and all remaining ingredients. Bring to simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer over medium heat until figs are tender, about 30 minutes. Cool. (Can be prepared 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.) Make crepes: Combine 1 cup milk and next 7 ingredients in blender. Blend until smooth, occasionally scraping down sides of blender. Cover; chill crepe batter in blender container 2 hours. Re-blend batter 15 seconds. If necessary, thin batter with additional milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, to consistency of heavy cream. Heat nonstick skillet with 7-inch-diameter bottom over medium-high heat. Brush skillet with additional melted butter. Pour scant 1/4 cup crepe batter into skillet, tilting skillet quickly to coat bottom. Cook until top of crepe appears dry and bottom is golden, loosening sides of crepe with spatula, about 35 seconds. Turn crepe over; cook until brown spots appear on bottom, about 20 seconds. Turn crepe out onto plate. Repeat with remaining batter. Stack crepes on plate. Brush 13 x 9 x 2-inch glass baking dish with additional melted butter. Spoon generous 2 tablespoons filling onto center of spotted side of 1 crepe. Spread filling to within 1 inch of edge of crepe. Fold crepe in half, then fold in half again, forming wedge shape. Place filled crepe in prepared dish. Repeat with remaining crepes and filling, overlapping crepes slightly in dish. Brush crepes lightly with melted butter. Sprinkle lightly with additional sugar. Cover dish with foil. Stir crme frache and honey in small bowl to blend. (Crepes and honey crme frache can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately and chill.) Preheat oven to 350F. Bake crepes, covered, until heated through, about 20 minutes. Place 2 crepes on each of 6 plates. Top with dollop of honey crme frache and serve.

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Italian Cuisine

Coffee-Caramel Crme Brle


yield: The custard in this clever crme brle tastes just like a rich caramel cappuccino.

indgredients
2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided 1/4 cup dark-roast coffee beans (such as French roast; about 3/4 ounce), crushed with mallet in plastic bag 1 cup sugar, divided 1/2 cup water 2 cups half and half 8 large egg yolks 1/4 teaspoon salt 8 teaspoons raw sugar*

preparation
Bring 1 cup cream and coffee beans to simmer in heavy small saucepan. Remove from heat; cover and let steep at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Preheat oven to 325F. Stir 2/3 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water in heavy medium saucepan over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil, brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush. Boil without stirring until syrup is deep amber, swirling pan occasionally, about 11 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Add remaining 1 cup whipping cream (mixture will bubble up). Stir over low heat until caramel is smooth. Stir in half and half. Strain coffee-infused cream into caramel cream; discard coffee beans in strainer. Whisk yolks, salt, and remaining 1/3 cup sugar in large bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in cream mixture. Strain custard into large measuring cup. Arrange eight 2/3-to 3/4-cup ramekins or custard cups in roasting pan. Divide custard among ramekins. Add enough warm water to roasting pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins or custard cups. Bake custards until just set in center, 65 to 70 minutes. Transfer custards from water bath directly to refrigerator. Chill uncovered until cold, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day. Sprinkle top of each custard with 1 teaspoon raw sugar. Using kitchen torch, melt sugar on each custard until deep amber. (Alternatively, preheat broiler. Arrange custards on small rimmed baking sheet; broil until sugar topping melts and browns, about 2 minutes.) Refrigerate custards until sugar topping hardens, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour (do not chill longer than 1 hour or topping will start to soften). Serve custards cold.

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* Also called turbinado or demerara sugar; available at most supermarkets and at natural foods stores.

Italian Cuisine

Beaumes-de-Venise Cake with Grapes


yield: Serves 6

indgredients
Olive oil 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 1 teaspoon grated orange peel 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup Beaumes-de-Venise or other Muscat wine 1 1/2 cups red seedless grapes

preparation

Preheat oven to 400F. Brush 10-inch-diameter springform pan with olive oil. Line bottom of pan with parchment; brush parchment with olive oil. Sift flour and next 3 ingredients into bowl. Whisk 3/4 cup sugar, 6 tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons oil in large bowl until smooth. Whisk in eggs, both peels and vanilla. Add flour mixture alternately with wine in 3 additions each, whisking just until smooth after each addition. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Sprinkle grapes over batter. Bake cake until top is set, about 20 minutes. Dot top of cake with 2 tablespoons butter; sprinkle 2 tablespoons sugar over. Bake until golden and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 20 minutes longer. Cool in pan on rack 20 minutes. Release pan sides. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

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Italian Cuisine

Peanut Dacquoise with Peanut Butter Mousse


yield: Makes 8 to 10 servings active time: 1 hour 30 minutes total time: 7 hours (includes chilling time)

indgredients
Meringue layers 1 1/4 cups roasted spanish salted peanuts with skin (6 to 6 1/2 ounces), divided 3/4 cup sugar, divided 6 large egg whites 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar pinch of coarse kosher salt Mousse: 1/2 cup chunky natural-style peanut butter 1/4 cup (packed) golden brown sugar Pinch of coarse kosher salt 1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream, divided 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Glaze: 1/4 cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder 1/4 cup sugar 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 1/3 cups bittersweet chocolate chips

preparation
For meringue layers: Preheat oven to 275F. Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw three 10 x 4 1/2-inch rectangles on parchment; turn parchment over. Finely grind 1 cup nuts with 1/4 cup sugar in processor. Coarsely chop remaining 1/4 cup nuts and set aside. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and coarse salt in large bowl until foamy. With mixer running, gradually add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, beating until meringue is stiff and glossy. Add ground nut mixture and coarsely chopped nuts; fold gently just to blend. Spoon 2 cups meringue onto each rectangle on parchment; spread evenly to fill rectangles (any remaining meringue can be baked as cookies). Bake meringues until golden brown all over and dry to touch but still slightly soft, about 1 hour 30 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool completely. For mousse: using electric mixer, beat peanut butter, brown sugar, and coarse salt in medium bowl to blend. With mixer running, gradually beat in 1/4 cup cream. Add another 1/4 cup cream and beat just to blend. Beat remaining 1/2 cup cream, sugar, and vanilla in another medium bowl until peaks form; fold into peanut butter mixture in 3 additions. Chill until ready to use. For glaze: Whisk cocoa powder and sugar in medium saucepan to blend well. Gradually add 1/4 cup water, whisking until smooth. Gradually whisk in heavy cream. Bring to boil over medium heat, whisking frequently. Reduce heat to low. Add chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Let stand at room temperature until cool and slightly thickened, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours. Leaving meringues on parchment and using large serrated knife, trim edges of each meringue to original 10 x 4 1/2-inch size. Slide thin knife between meringues and paper to loosen. Spoon 1/4 cup glaze evenly over top of 2 meringue rectangles and spread to cover. Chill until chocolate sets, about 30 minutes. Place 1 glazed meringue rectangle on plate. Spoon half of mousse over (scant 1 1/4 cups); spread out in even layer. Place second glazed meringue rectangle atop first; spread with remaining mousse. Top with unglazed meringue rectangle. Pour 1/2 cup glaze down center of top meringue. Using icing spatula, spread glaze over top meringue, allowing glaze to drip down sides. Smooth top and sides to cover evenly with thin layer. Refrigerate until glaze is set, about 30 minutes. Pour remaining glaze over top of dacquoise and quickly smooth over top and sides in even layer. Sprinkle fleur de sel lightly over top, if desired. Chill at least 3 hours. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover with cake dome and keep chilled.

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Italian Cuisine

Orange-Blossom-Honey Madeleines
yield: Makes 16 servings

indgredients
3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt 2 large eggs 1/3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons orange blossom honey 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, cooled, plus more for molds Special equipment: One 16-cookie madeleine pan with 3x2 molds

preparation

Sift flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat eggs and sugar in a large bowl until pale yellow and thick, about 4 minutes. Beat in honey, vanilla, and orange zest. Gently fold in dry ingredients. Add 5 tablespoons melted butter; gently fold into batter. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface of batter; chill for at least 3 hours. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Position a rack in center of oven; preheat to 400F. Lightly brush madeleine molds with butter. Place pan on a baking sheet. Drop 1 scant tablespoon batter into each mold. Bake until golden and a tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 10 minutes. Remove pan from oven, invert, and quickly knock madeleines out of pan. Serve warm on their own or with Ginger-Yogurt Mousse with Pistachio Meringue .

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