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An analysis of using deconstruction and upcycling methods in designing a product range, to reduce fashion waste.

Lieze van Tonder! Field: Surface & Fashion Design

(The Triton Lite Theme, 2014)

Purpose Statement

Upcycle second-hand garments / textiles Reduce fashion and textile waste Personal design aesthetic CHALLENGE: Eco-friendly and sustainable approach

Objectives

AIM: Address textile waste Create Summer 2015 range 1960s Inspired

(Tumblr, 2014)

Problem Statement

Global concern Unwanted fabrics Landlls sites are overcrowded


(Pears, 2006: 53)

Second and third life cycles Sustainable, ethical, eco-friendly product range

(The Elemin Theme 2014)

Main Question
As an emerging designer in the 21st Century, how necessary is it to implement an ethical and sustainable philosophy, and can deconstruction and upcycling methods be used to reduce fashion waste?

Sub-Questions
1) Why is ethics good for the future and how does this relate to a sustainable design philosophy? 2) What has been done in the eld of fashion where designers have attempted to address the negative impact / unethical approach of fast fashion? 3) How can I as an emerging designer solve the issue: (A) by using classic design aesthetics and combining it with my own unique textiles and embellishments or (B) establish a repository / fashion library in the future in order to build up a customer base - not only to sell, but repurpose upcycled garments (making patch work, handbags, childrens wear, etc.).

Setting / Context

Cape Town Increase in vintage clothing Observed: Old Biscuit Mill, Hope Street Market, Long Street Sold at a small scale in their original state Adapting with surface and fashion design knowledge - design statement

(Van Tonder, 2013)

Signicance

Unique and desirable garments Luxury market More affordable approach GAP: Popularity peak (niche established) Sources are available Charity shops, second-hand stores Upcycling: big trend internationally

Literature Review

Sustainability: Key theory Cradle to Cradle Approach


Developed in 2008 Michael Braungart & William McDonough Change current framework: Cradle to grave Lifecycle of materials are more important Reused and transformed

(Aakko & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, 2013: 13) (Eminton (ed.), 2012: 1)

Ethical Approach

Maximises benets / minimises impact Sustainable environment Ethical fashion - global phenomenon Recycled / Eco-friendly materials Promoting sustainable standards

(EEF, 2014) (Independent.co.uk, 2014)

Fast Fashion

Unsustainable approach Low-cost, current trends High-cost luxury fashion Fast cycle: ending up on landlls Overconsumption of fabric waste: cannot ignore massive issue

Design solution

Redeemed by upcycling Environmentally sustainable

(Annamma, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang et al., 2012: 275)

(Bluewish, 2014)

Methodology
Research Design: 1) Approach - Qualitative research method

Gaining a deeper understanding Investigating the solution to a problem Collecting data about a specic eld or setting Secondary research: theories, theorists, practitioners Primary research: exploration, investigation

(Accessible Technology Initiative, 2014)

2) Method

Case study research: practitioners Exploratory research: techniques Deconstruction in fashion

(Benjamin & Norris, 1988: 7)

(Yaney Marketing Inc, 2014)

3) Research Types

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
2) What has been done in the eld of fashion where designers have attempted to address the negative impact / unethical approach of fashion? Published journals, academic websites, electronic magazines, images and photos Sub-Questions 1) Why is ethics good for the future? Primary Research Secondary Research Published journals, published books, academic websites, newspaper and magazine articles

3) How can I as an emerging designer solve the issue: (A) by using classic design aesthetics and combining it with my own unique textiles and embellishments?

Photographs, sketches, observations, Inspirational images, published journalising books, academic websites

Mia Nisbet

Scottish designer Combines second-hand clothing and Malawian wax printed textiles Sources: Street markets Philosophy: Ethical design, uniting 2 cultures Production: Malawi communities (sustainable livelihoods) 2012 Collection: mens shirt and Malawian fabric

(African Fashion Guide, 2014) (Niji Magazine, 2014) (LinkedIn Corporation, 2014)

(Fashions Finest, 2014)

Schmidttakahashi

Berlin-based label Eastern designers: Eugenie Schmidt, Mariko Takahashi Philosophy: Upcycle, restyle, redesign Sources: Donated clothes Combines different materials in unconventional cuts - creating Asian aesthetic collections

(Ditty & Brown, 2013) (Schmidttakahashi, 2014)

(Schmidttakahashi, 2014)

Momo Wang

Queen of upcycling in Beijing Philosophy: Deconstruction Refresh, renew and re-animate precious second-hand textiles / garments Second-hand markets in her hometown 2012 Collection: The Third Hand Combination: precious textiles / garments

(Upcyclista, 2013) (Gardenia Media, 2014)

(Upcyclista 2013)

Orsola de Castro

Italian designer First to address the issue of pre-consumer waste in the fashion industry (ethical/ sustainable approach) Clothing label: From Somewhere Upcycles / reclaims high-end fashion and textile surplus 100 % upcycled, 100% ethical trading

(From Somewhere, 2014) (Map Magazine, 2014) (Fashion Events, 2013)

(Ecosalon, 2013)

Piece x Piece

San Fransisco-based Fashion designer: Elizabeth Brunner Existing materials are a precious resource with untapped potential Collects luxury fabric swatches Addresses possibility for reuse and environmental conscious clothing

(Piece x Piece LLC, 2011) (EcoSalon, 2013)

(Piece x Piece LLC, 2011)

Product Type

Spring/Summer 2015 collection for women Collection of 8-10 outts Combining second-hand garments with new textiles Classic 1960s silhouettes: timeless fashion (not contributing to fast fashion) Simple structure, emphasis on detail and surface design Upcycling garments: one-of-a-kind pieces Limited edition OUTCOME: Ready-to-wear upcycled range PURPOSE: Solution to fashion waste TARGET MARKET: Vintage lovers Environmentally conscious individuals Respond to concept of upcycling and second-hand clothing

1960s SILHOUETTES

COLOUR BOARD

TEXTILES INSPIRATION

TECHNIQUES

List of References
Aakko, M. Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. 2013. [Designing Sustainable Fashion: Possibilities and Challenges]. Finland: University of Helsinki. (Unpublished PhD Thesis). Africa Fashion Guide 2014. MIA by Mia Nisbet Textile Upcycling for Africa Designer Profile. Africa Fashion Guide. [Online]. Available: http:// www.africafashionguide.com/2012/04/mia-by-mia-nisbet-textile-upcycling-for-africa-designer-profile/. [27 February 2014]. Annamma, J., Chan, R., Sherry, J.F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J. 2012. Fashion Theory: Volume 16, Issue 3. England: Berg. Ditty, S. & Brown, S. 2013. (Interview with Sass Brown on 1 October 2013). California. (Published). EcoSalon 2013. Our 5 Favourite Upcycled Fashion Designers from the USA. EcoSalon. [Online]. Available: http://ecosalon.com/our-5-favorite-upcycledfashion-designers-from-the-usa/. [4 March 2014]. Eminton, S. (ed.) 2012. Two Approaches to Product Lifecycle. Community Recycling Network: 1, March. Fashion Events 2013. Orsola de Castro: 10th - 20th June 2013. Fashion Events. [Online]. Available: http://fashionevents.co.uk/fashionevent/orsola-de-castroevent-dates-10th-20th-june-2013/. [25 February 2014]. From Somewhere 2014. Little Jumper. From Somewhere. [Online]. Available: http://fromsomewhere.co.uk/shop/little-jumper/red-10. [2 March 2014]. Gardenia Media 2014. Momo Wangs Third Hand Upcycled Collection: Inspired by Derrida. Eco-Chick. [Online]. Available: http://eco-chick.com/2013/01/13178/ momo-wangs-the-third-hand-upcycled/. [20 February 2014]. Linkedin Corporation 2014. Mia Nisbet - Chimwmbe. Linked in. [Online]. Available: http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/mia-nisbet-chimwembe/33/357/855. [27 February 2014]. Map Magazine 2014. Orsola de Castro. Map Magazine: The Dreamers. [Online]. Available: http://theweekendedition.com.au/mapmagazine/orsola-de-castro/. [2 March 2014]. Niji Magazine 2014. From rags to runway: Meet designer Mia Nisbet. Niji Magazine. [Online]. Available: http://nijimagazine.com/2012/02/from-rags-to-runwaydesigner-mia-nisbet-talks-of-how-she-makes-avant-garde-ensembles-from-reclaimed-garments/. [27 February 2014] Schmidttakahashi 2014. Spring / Summer 2014. Schmidttakahashi. [Online]. Available: http://www.schmidttakahashi.de/index.php/en/collections/springsummer-2013. [27 February 2014]. Piece x Piece LLC 2011. Our Story. Piece x Piece: Discarded Luxury made in San Francisco. [Online]. Available: http://www.pxp-sf.com/. [4 March 2014]. Upcyclista 2013. Momo Wang: China Upcycle Queen. Upcyclista. [Online]. Available: http://www.upcyclista.org/momo-wang-third-hand-upcycling/. [20 February 2014].

Visual References
PRESENTATION:! Bluewish 2014. Are Consumers Getting Tired of Fast Fashion? Across the Fader. [Online]. Available: http://acrossthefader.biz/archives/6276. [10 March 2014].! Ecosalon 2013. Gorgeous Dresses Made from Upcycled Olympic Speedos. Ecosalon [Online]. Available: http://ecosalon.com/gorgeous-dresses-made-from-upcycled-speedos/. [2 March 2014].! Fashions Finest 2014. MIA by Mia Nisbet. Fashions Finest. [Online]. Available: http://fashionsnest.com/fashion/designers/item/1986-mia-by-mia-nisbet. [27 February 2014].! Piece x Piece LLC 2011. Collection. Piece x Piece: Discarded Luxury made in San Francisco. [Online]. http://www.pxp-sf.com/collection.php. [9 March 2014].! Schmidttakahashi 2014. Spring / Summer 2014. Schmidttakahashi. [Online]. Available: http://www.schmidttakahashi.de/index.php/en/collections/spring-summer-2013. [27 February 2014].! Tumblr 2014. Sloth Unleashed. Tumblr. [Online]. Available: http://mudwerks.tumblr.com/post/44999410814. [5 March 2014].! The Elemin Theme 2014. Out With The Old. Kate Davies Designs. [Online]. Available: http://katedaviesdesigns.com/2009/01/11/out-with-the-old/. [10 March 2014].! The Triton Lite Theme 2014. Trend Alert: Summer in the 60s. The Fashion Foot. [Online]. Available: http://thefashionfoot.com/2013/06/19/trend-alert-summer-in-the-60s/. [4 March 2014].! Upcyclista 2013. Momo Wang: China Upcycle Queen. Upcyclista. [Online]. Available: http://www.upcyclista.org/momo-wang-china-upcycle-queen/. [20 February 2014].! Van Tonder, T. 2013. Open Streets. [Photograph]. In possession of Tanya van Tonder. Cape Town! Yaney Marketing Inc 2014. Untangling The Big Ball of Confusion. The Nailing Post. [Online]. Available: http://www.yaney.net/NailingPost.aspx?pid=86. [11 March 2014].! 1960S SILHOUETTE BOARD:! Clarity Digital Group LLC, 2014. Mod Madness in Fashion Trend Spring 2013. Examinor. [Online]. Available: http://www.examiner.com/article/mod-madness-fashion-trend-spring-2013. [4 March 2014].! Fashionising 2014. 1960s Fashion: Going Mod For Spring 2013. Fashionising. [Online]. Available: http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--1960s-fashion-7918.html#/gallery/collection/24. [4 March 2014].! Pinterest 2014. Andr Courrges late-60s cut-out Window Dress. Pinterest. [Online]. Available: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/379569074816685345/. [4 March 2014].! The Triton Lite Theme 2014. Trend Alert: Summer in the 60s. The Fashion Foot. [Online]. Available: http://thefashionfoot.com/2013/06/19/trend-alert-summer-in-the-60s/. [4 March 2014].! COLOUR BOARD:! E t s y, I n c . , 2 0 1 4 . P o w d e r e d M i c a . E t s y. [ O n l i n e ] . Av a i l a b l e : %20&order=most_relevant&view_type=gallery&ship_to=ZZ&search_submit=. [28 February 2014].! h t t p : / / w w w. e t s y. c o m / s e a r c h ? q = p o w d e r e d % 2 0 m i c a

Pinterest 2014. Inspiration. Pinterest. [Online]. Available: http://www.pinterest.com/liezevt01/2014-inspiration-for-my-upcycling-collection/. [27 February 2014].! Socialbliss LLC, 2013. Mary Quant: Fashion Designer/British Icon. Socialbliss. [Online]. Available: http://www.socialbliss.com/kplaza/fashion-icons-G44DSOA/swoosh-GY2TIMJY. [5 March 2014].! INSPIRATION BOARD:! Flickr 2014. Lichen by Leenda K. Flickr. [Online]. Available: http://www.ickr.com/photos/leenda_k/1147882459/in/photostream/lightbox/. [27 February 2014].! Photography Ofce 2012. Aquanauts in Another Universe. Photography Ofce. [Online]. Available: http://www.photographyofce.com/2012/12/aquanauts-in-another-universe-theextraordinary-underwater-photographs-of-alexander-semenov/. [27 February 2014].! Pinterest 2014. Inspiration For My Upcycling Collection. Pinterest. [Online]. Available: http://www.pinterest.com/liezevt01/2014-inspiration-for-my-upcycling-collection/. [9 March 2014].! Tumblr 2014. Heavenly Way To Die. The Over Flow. [Online]. Available: http://theoverw.tumblr.com/post/22515046186/josephine-skriver-backstage-at-ports-1961. [27 February 2014].

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