Practical Sewing D 00 All I

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ACTICAL:
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SARA.-MAy-ALLIN(
Class
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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
Book
Copyright N.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Practical
Sewing and Dressmaking

BY
SARA MAY ALLINGTON
ILLUSTRATED BY
ELIZABETH CLEVES BANKS
DANA
BOSTON ESTES & COMPANY

PUBLISHERS
Copyright, 1913
By Dana Estes & Company.

All rights reserved
C. H.
THE COLONIAL PKESS SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U.
S. A.
r, s* ire
CI.A351233
8"
'<?
CONTENTS
PAGE
Introduction
LESSON
i.
Stitches used in Sewing and Dressmaking
Basting Even Basting Uneven Basting Slanting or Padding Stitch
Running Stitch
Blind Stitch
n n n n ir n
13
',
. .
.
Back Stitch
Overcasting
Overhanding
Hemming Cat - stitching French Knots

Buttonholes To Work Buttonholes on Lace Eyelets Loops Finishing Seams Double Stitch Seams French Seam Strap Seam Raw Lapped Seam Cord Seam Fell Seam Bias Bands Milliners' Fold
Girdles Shirring Plain Shirring Tucked Shirring
13 13 13 13 15 15 15 17 17 17 17
.17
17 17
19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19
21
.....
LESSON
2.
Utensils needed for Sewing and Dressmaking How to Make a Papier - mache Bust Form for One's
.... Own
23
Dress23
making
LESSON
3.
Planning the Gown
25
LESSON
LESSON
4.
The Chart with which the Drafting

5.
is
Done
29
How
to
1.
2.
Take Measures Waist Measure Bust Measure
32
.
.
34 34
CONTENTS
3. 4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. 11.
12.
13.
Neck Measure Armhole Measure Under Arm Measure Upper Front Measure Back Length Measure Back Width Measure Front Length Measure Arm Length Measure Elbow Measure Inside Arm Measure from Armhole to Bend Hand Measure
. .
.
-35
. .
PAGE 34 34
.35 36 .36
.
35 35
of
Arm
14.
15. 16. 17.
Front Length of Skirt Side Length of Skirt Back Length of Skirt Take Hip Measure
36 36 36 36 36 36
38
LESSON LESSON LESSON
6.
.
.
.
Drafting the Shirt - waist

7.
39
Drafting the Shirt-waist Sleeve

8.
-
43
Drafting the Blouse
waist
.47
.
.
LESSON
9.
How
LESSON How
LESSON LESSON
LESSON
to Cut the Sailor Collar, or any Large Collar

10.
49
to Draft the Kimono Waist

11.
51
The Making and Finishing of the Shirt-waist

12.
.
....
.
53
Drafting the Tight Waist with Back Forms

13.
59
Drafting the Waist without Back Forms
65
LESSON
LESSON
14.
.
Drafting the Waist with French Forms

15.
71
How
LESSON
to Cut, Fit, and

16.
Make the Waist

. .
77
Drafting the Coat or Lining Sleeve
.85
89
LESSON
LESSON
17.
-
The One
18.
piece Tight Sleeve
The Flowing Sleeve
91
LESSON
LESSON
19.
.
Drafting the Sleeve with the Tight Elbow and Large Top
20.
93
Drafting the Leg
o'
Mutton Sleeve
97
CONTENTS
PAQB
LESSON 21. How to Cut, Make, and Finish the To Make the Mousquetaire Sleeve
LESSON
LESSON
LESSON
22.
Sleeve
ior 102
Drafting the Circular Skirt

23.
-
105
Drafting the Three

24.
gored Circular Skirt
109
Drafting the Seven
gored Skirt
.113
.
LESSON
LESSON LESSON
25.
-
Drafting the Nine

26.
gored Skirt
.117
121
Drafting the Fifteen

27.
gored Skirt
The Full Plaited
Skirt,
made from the Fifteen
gored Draft
125
LESSON
28.
.
To Cut, Make, and Finish the Drop Skirt and Outside Skirt The Outside Skirt
129 131
LESSON
29.
Petticoats Women's Muslin Underwear The Petticoat with a Yoke
135 136
LESSON LESSON
30.
. .
The Night - gown

31.
139
The Chemise The Chemise without Gathers
.141 .143
145
LESSON
32.
Women's Corset Covers Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line
...
.145
.
LESSON
LESSON
33.
-
Seamless Corset Cover made from the Shirt

34.
waist Draft
149
Women's Circular Drawers
To Make the Different
Sizes
How
LESSON LESSON
35.
151 153
to Cut, Make, and Finish the Circular
Drawers
.153
157
Drafting the Princess

36.
-
Gown
-
Drafting the Single
breasted, Tight
fitting Tailored
Coat
To Form Skirt of Coat To Draft the Collar
163 166 169
LESSON
Loose
37.
-
fitting,
Unlined Coat
171
CONTENTS
PAGE
LESSON
38.
.
The Slightly Fitted Coat To Draft the Collar
175 178
LESSON
39.
How
LESSON
The
to
40.
Make and
Draft
Finish the Tailored Coat
.181
191
Child's
41.
LESSON
LESSON
Child's Sleeve
.42.
Draft
195:
Child's
Coat Sleeve
199
LESSON
LESSON
43.
Child's Rompers
44-
203
How
LESSON
to Cut, and Finish the Rompers

Sizes
To Draft the Different

45.
207 209
Boy's Russian Blouse Suit
21 r
The Blouse The Knickerbockers
211
213
LESSON
46.
How
LESSON LESSON LESSON
to
47.
Make
a Boy's Russian Blouse, and Knickerbockers
219
Child's Pajama Suit

48.
223
Child's
49-
Drawers
225
How
to Make Little Girls' Clothing Child's Blouse Waist Little Girls' Underclothing Little GrRL's Skirt Child's Drawers Child's Night-gown
50.
229
231 231 231 231 223
LESSON
Infant's First Outfit
The Pinning Blanket

For the Skirt The Waist The Infant's Skirt
Infant's Slip or Night-gown How to Make the Slip or Night-gown For the Infant's Dress
235 235 235 236

.
.
.237
239 243 244
LESSON
51.
How
to
Make Use
of
Your Knowledge
245
INTRODUCTION
Every woman, no matter how
present time, should have at her
she
may
be situated at the
command some knowledge

suddenly, would bring her in
which,
if
circumstances
demand
it
a good income.
There
is
no business in the world,

in a greater
for
which
women
are fitted,
which brings
capital
income
for so
little
expenditure of
and time as dressmaking.

is
no woman who will not wish some time in her life knew something of this art. If she has children she will wish to make many things for them. If she is not a woman of wealth, she can dress herself for less than half what it will Even cost her to hire, if she can make her own clothing.
There
that she
should she be able to hire her work done,
if
she understands the
work work
herself,
how much
easier it
is
for her to
be suited with the
of others.
There are none so hard to please as those who
do not know how a thing should be done.

Oftentimes a financial
crisis
comes suddenly into one's

for positions
life,
when
there
is
no time to wait
and hardly time to
think what to do.
With
it
the knowledge of sewing and dress-
making, one can turn to
and earn a good income, at almost a
moment's
notice.
of women who are thrown out into own living. With the thorough knowledge of sewing and dressmaking we have tried to give in these pages, she can make a success wherever she may wish to put her knowl-
Almost every day we hear
the world to earn their
edge to the
test.
In almost any
it is difficult is
line of
work the competition
is
so great that
to find a position,
and in almost every line the woman

men, under the nervous
forced to
work
in competition with
INTRODUCTION
strain of business
of the
methods and at much smaller pay than that

her.
man
working beside
This
is
not so with sewing and

so large that there
is
dressmaking.
still
The
field is hers,
and
it is
room
for
many more
workers.
We have
tried to give in this course a
method
so simple
and a
of all
course so thorough and broad that
it will
meet the needs
women, no matter
knowledge.
for
what purpose they may wish
to use their
PRACTICAL SEWING
AND
DRESSMAKING
LESSON
I
STITCHES USED IN DRESSMAKING AND SEWING
Before taking up
the actual
making
of the
gown, we
will
learn the different stitches
and
utensils
which are necessary
for
dressmaking and sewing.

Basting.
For basting use a good quality basting thread.

all
No*
60
is
preferable for
uses except very heavy wool goods, then
it is
best to use 40 or 50.
For
silk or
velvet a fine thread should
be used so that it will not mark the goods.
In pulling out bastings
never try to pull the entire length of the thread.

stitches or
Cut it every few

it.
you
will pull the thread in the

is
goods and ruin
Even Basting
sides.
where the
stitch is the
same length on both

long and the under
etc.
This
is
used for basting up seams.

is
Uneven Basting
one short.
It
is
where the upper stitch
is
used for marking seams, basting in hems,

is
Slanting or Padding Stitch
used for fastening in canvas or
padding in coats.
Running
is
Stitch
is
where small
stitches are taken evenly.
This
used for joining pieces of materials, tucks, gathers, and sewing
on braid or trimming. The work should be held evenly together

with the
left
hand, while the needle
is
held in the right and pushed
back and forth through the material, making as

the needle as possible before pulling
practice this stitch until
it
many stitches on through. You should

stitches with-
you can take small even
out looking at the work.
BasTm*
Even Basting
Uneven BasTing
Padding
STiYch
~ "
*-
Running StItc^
Bh'nd
ST.'Tcli

Blind Stitch.
13
This
stitch.
is
used to fasten on trimming or bias

side.
bands where the stitch must not show on the right

with a running
Run
the needle between the foundation goods and the trimming
Take the
stitch
through the foundation,
but only through the under side of the trimming or into the
turned in edge of the bias band.
Back
Stitch.
Make a stitch as in the running

beyond the
first,
stitch.
Instead
of taking the next stitch
place the needle

long.
is
way back
each one
in the next stitch
and take one twice as

it.
Take
used
way back
to the one preceding
This stitch
to take the place of
machine sewing.
It is
much
stronger than
the running stitch.

stitching.
When
finished
it
should resemble machine
Overcasting
is
a slanting stitch taken over and over the
raw
edge of the goods.

is
This
is
used on seams or wherever there

it
a raw edge exposed, to keep

to left.
from raveling.
The work
is
done from right

Overhanding.
The
two selvages
of
goods are held evenly
together and are sewed over and over together with very small
slanting stitches.
gether, the
Where two raw edges are to be sewed toraw edges should be turned down a small seam and
same
as
if
the edges thus formed held together the

selvages.
they were
The
stitches should be very small

left.
and even.
The
work
is
done from right to
Hemming.
The hem
The
first
is
used to finish the edge and

is
is
turned
down
the
twice.
turn
always as narrow as possible, and
the second whatever width the
hem
is
to be
it
when
finished.
If
hem
is
to be
put in on the machine
can be done with the

to be
foot attachment, unless too wide, but
if it is
hand work,
it
must always be
and as small as
on the right
basted.
Take the
stitch first in the cloth, then stitches slanting
in the edge of the
hem, and so on, making the
possible.
The
stitch
which
is
taken in the cloth

it will
should only take up one or two threads, so that

side.
not show
turn up,
On
skirts
where the hem
is
too
full to
a piece of the goods cut just the
same curve
of the skirt
and the
Back STiTch
Over casTmo
Over Handing
CaT STTchjnc
i$
same way
of the cloth
is
sewed to the bottom
of the skirt, hav-
ing the facing the width the

of the skirt.
hem
is
to be
and on the right

side
side
Stitch
and turn on the wrong
and fasten in
too heavy to
place.
Cat-stitching.
This
is
used where the goods
is
Turn the hem up the desired width without having turned in the edge. Hold the work so that the hem will run away from you. Take a stitch first in the hem and then
turn in twice.
in the goods, in the
hem
again and again in the goods, holding
the point of the needle towards
you and making the
stitches
cross each other so that they resemble a rail fence.
French Knots.
purposes.
side.
These
it
are
little
knots used for decorative
Put the needle up through the goods from the wrong

through the goods, wind the thread
Before pulling
it
about
three or four times.

left
Hold the thread down

as possible.
to the needle
with the
thumb.
Put the needle down through

it
as near so
the same place where
came up
Draw down
be
that the knot looks smooth.

Button-holes.
evenly.
Button-holes
little
should
always
cut very
They should be a
It is a
longer than the diameter of the

scissors for cutting
it
button.
good plan to use button-hole
them.
More than one
thickness of goods should be used and

If the
should be firmly basted together.

it is
material frays easily,

it is cut.
a good plan to stitch around the button-hole before
Button-holes should always be stayed before they are worked.
One way
stitches
is
to overcast the button-hole.
Another
is
to
form
about the button-hole.
Put the needle through from

through again at the outside
the under side, a few threads from the inside end of the buttonhole.
Draw
it
through.
Put
it
end
of the button-hole
very near the end and so the long stitch
thus formed will He close along the side of the button-hole.
Repeat
this a
second time.
This
will
form a bar of stitches about
the button-hole.
When
left.
it is
worked, begin at the right end and

the button-hole stitch, put the
work towards the
To make
needle up through the goods a few threads from the inner end
French KnoTs
BoTTo.n
Hole
LyeleTS
Loop

of the button-hole.
17
Before pulling
it
it
through, take hold of the
thread near the needle, throw
over the needle and pull through.
Repeat
this for
each stitch until you have been around the butof the button-hole
is
ton-hole.
all
The beauty
to
have the stitches
one length and perfectly even,
To Work Button-holes on Lace.

underneath where the button-hole
place.
it
Place a piece of thin goods

is
to be worked.
lace
Baste into
After
Cut the button-hole through the
and goods.
it
has been worked, cut away the goods so that
will
not
show.
Eyelets are small round holes punched in the goods with a
stiletto
and worked around over and over.
They
are used
largely
on shirt-waists, where one wishes to put buttons through
the goods so they can be easily removed.
Loops. ^ Take three or four stitches about 34 of an inch long
on top
of each other.
Button-hole-stitch
them
all
together,
is
covering the entire length.
This makes a strong loop which
used to take the place of the metal eye where the metal would
show.
Finishing Seams.
plain
Seams are finished in various ways.

is
The
seam
is
simply stitched up and pressed open, after each
side has
been thoroughly overcast.

stitched the
it all
Double Stitch Seam

Instead of pressing
it
same
as the plain seam.

stitch
open, press
one
way and
on the
outside about 3^ of an inch from the
first stitching.
French Seam.
Stitch the seam on the right

Turn and
stitch
side.
close to the stitching.

last stitching
on the wrong
side.
Trim off The
should come just where the seam in the garment
should be.
Strap Seam.
edge.
Make a bias band of the goods, turning in each

true bias.
Stitch the
The band should be on a

and
stitch
seam up on
it.
the right side, press open and place the bias

carefully
band over
is
Baste
very near each edge.

It
This
used on coats,
coat suits and skirts.
makes a very neat trimming. The bias
band may be used any desired width.
'-.Silliii:
RiqhT
Side
wrono
-Side
Double STt'ched
Seam
French *Seam
STrap
5eam
^
.:..,-..;
1
< f
.
'
K'W:-.
[.
^\^r^^r
Raw Lap 5ean\
\_
19
flat
Raw Lapped Seam.
Place one edge of the goods

This
on the
for
other and stitch very near each raw edge.
is
good
very heavy wool goods.
Cord Seam.
Cover a small cord with the goods.

side of the
Turn
in
one side of the seam and baste the cord along the seam.
flat
Lay
on the other Seam.
seam and
stitch
on the right side
very near the cord.

Fell
Stitch the seam as for a plain seam.

Trim
of the
off
edges one way.

in the
the under edge quite narrow.
Turn both Turn

flat,
raw edge
one not trimmed and stitch
down
stitching as near the edge as possible.
Bias Bands.
To cut bias bands, fold the corner of the goods

two straight edges
a crease.
of the triangle are the
off
up
so that the
same
chalk.
length.
Make
Measure
the width the bands

tailors'
are to be and
draw
lines
with a yardstick and
Mark
marks
off as
many bands
as needed before cutting.
Cut on the
off
carefully, as the least
change
will
throw the bands

silk,
the true bias.
Bias bands of thin material, like
should be
made
band.
over crinoline before being used.
Milliners' Fold.
This
is
used as a trimming.
}/
Make
a bias
Turn down one edge about
the width of the band.

-
Turn down the other about }4 of an mcn Turn the narrow edge half way up on the broad edge and blind stitch.
Girdles.
A girdle should always be made on linen canvas.

demands.
It
may be
to the
by a pattern to fit, or cut on a true bias and stretched figure. The goods may be put on full, plain, or in even
cut
folds, just as the style
The
girdle should
be boned to
hold up
stiff
and smooth.
goods with
Shirring.
Plain Shirring.
Shirring may be done in two ways Run the thread through the
Be
all
very small and even stitches.

until it
is
Push the goods up on the thread

careful not to get
it
the desired fullness.
too full
or
it
will lose its beauty.
Put
in as
many
threads as you wish,
at an equal distance apart.
Put
the threads in before shoving
the goods up, and keep the fullness the same on each thread.
WWMMV
Bias
Bands
MUline-r^
Pol J
Fell
seam
21
Tuck
wide.
Shirring.
Instead
of just running the thread in, as
in plain shirring, take
up a tuck each time about
1-8 of
an inch
Shove up on the thread the same as

as
in plain shirring.
Make
other.
many
tucks as desired, equally distant from each
LESSON
II
UTENSILS NEEDED FOR SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
For your work

large
in
sewing and dressmaking you
will
need a
smooth
table, large
enough
to cut a skirt on, a
good sew-
ing-machine, an ironing-board and an ironing-cushion.

latter
The
Cut
you cannot buy but

into a
sides.
will
have
to
make
for yourself.
a piece of heavy bed ticking 28 inches long and 18 inches wide.
Make
until
it
bag by folding together and stitching along the
two long
Cut
old wool
and cotton goods into small pieces

Soak them
in
you have about four pounds.

the bag,
water until
thoroughly wet and then squeeze as

possible.
Fill
much
While
of the
water out as
making
it
very
solid.
it
and soak the whole pillow

into shape (about
in water.
Sew up the end is wet, pound it

dry cover with
all
like a loaf of bread).

it is
When
a piece of white cloth, and

of the waist
ready for use in pressing
seams
and
coat.
By
using this cushion you will not lose
the curve of the seams.
Aside from the utensils mentioned you should have good pins
and
needles, a tracing- wheel

this at
and some
tailors'
chalk (you can

of shears
buy
a book
store), a yardstick,
a good pair
and a pair
of button-hole scissors.
You
should also have a good
papier-mache bust form.
HOW
TO MAKE A PAPIER-MACHE BUST FORM FOR ONE'S
OWN
DRESSMAKING
do your own dressmaking you should fit up a bust form so that it will represent your own form exactly. To
If
you wish
to
do
this
buy a good bust form your own bust measure.

23
Draft
24

fit it
it.
a tight waist to your measure and have some one
to
you
very tightly, tighter than you could possibly wear
^Fit it
down about
sure
it is
the hips about 5 inches below the waist line and be
perfect at every point.
Use a very heavy
lining
ma-
terial.
Sew hooks and eyes

where
it
quite close together
down
it off
the back.
Place this lining on your bust form, and by taking

in all places
and on fill
does not
Fill
fit
the form, with layers of cotton

is
put on very smoothly.

on.
fit
out until the lining
hard to hook
it
It should be as hard as possible, as
you
will
wish to use
to
your waists on.
If it
were
left soft
you might get your waist

form you can hang your
too tight.
skirts
By placing a petticoat on
this
this
on
form as well as
will
fit
your waists.
Of course
for the
skirt the
form
have to be on a standard.
Any
carpenter
can easily make you one.
Have him make

of the form.
a board just the size
and shape
board a
of the
bottom
Place four legs on this
little
longer than your skirt measure.
On
the bottom of
these legs fasten another board, large enough so that the standard
will
not tip over easily.
Sew
four tape loops to the sides of your
bust form and put four brass-headed tacks in the edge of the
top of the standard, leaving them out just enough to slip the
tape over.
This
will
it
;
keep the form from slipping

at the
off
it
while
you are working on
same time you can remove
from
the standard whenever you wish.
You
will find
a bust form of
this kind the most convenient thing you ever possessed.
LESSON
III
PLANNING THE GOWN
You
have learned the
stitches
and
utensils used in sewing
and
dressmaking.
the gown.
We
is
will
now
take up the actual work of making
Dressmaking
i.
divided into four parts:
Planning the gown.

Drafting the gown.
2.
3.
Cutting the gown.

Finishing the gown.
will take
4.
We
up the
first:
PLANNING THE GOWN
The
tall
first
thing to be thought of in planning the
gown
is
the
figure of the person for
whom
the
gown
is
to be
made.
dark?
Is she
and slender or short and stout?
Is she light or
After
settling these points,
we must
tall.
decide what sort of a
gown would
be best.
lines to
For a small person the gown should have long straight
make
her look
The
tall
slender person should have
broken
lines, lines
running around, cutting up the length of the

short, stout person the
garment.
For a
back width should be

All persons
broken so that
it will
look narrower.
We must
also think of the coloring of the patron.

colors.
cannot wear the same
The complexion,
For a
fair
color of the hair
and eyes must be considered.

shades
complexion, lighter
may
be used.
For the sallow complexion, brown, dark
blue, olive green
and black.
to be worn.
We
must
also consider the time

for winter should
when
the
gown
is
The garment
25
be heavier than for summer.
For those who cannot afford a
26

For those who can afford
variety, dark colors should be worn.

it,
cream, tan or light grey
is
good.
The garment
for winter
should be more severe in lines than the fluffy thin garment for
summer
Whether
wear.
also
We must
know
for
what occasion the

points,
dress
is
to
be worn.
for a
wedding, party, street wear or house.
Having considered these

extreme
will
we must now
It
is
if
resort to the
best fashion books to find our styles.

styles, as
never best to use

not,
you
will find that,
you do
will
your gowns
stay in style
much
will
longer.
Sometimes you
have a patron who
choose from your

learn,
if
books just the thing she should not wear.
You must
you wish
tactful
to
be a successful dressmaker, to influence her, in a
way, to choose some other style more suited to her form
and
coloring.
In planning the two-piece street gowns, no rule can be given,

except that they are always planned on more severe lines than
any other garment except the long
coat.
Both
of these
must
be planned according to the prevailing
style.
A
suit.
party gown must be planned very differently from a street
For a very formal party gown, low neck and short sleeves
girls.
should be used, except for young

will
Silks of delicate colors
be found the most suitable.
These goods change nearly
every year but a few standard ones
may be found on
the market,
such as Chiffons,
Velvet
Nets, Crepe-de-Chine, Taffeta, Satin, etc.
may
always be used.
For young
be used.
girls, thin, soft
wool or
cotton goods are always good, such as Batiste, Crepe, Lawn,

Taffeta and China silk
may
also
party gown
will
permit of more trimming than any other
kind of a gown.
Plaiting, shirring
and tucking
may
be used to
good advantage on
like
light materials.
On
the heavy materials
Velvet,
Poplin or Brocade, heavy laces, appliques, jet
trimmings or embroideries should be used.
A gown for house wear, but for less formal wear

gown, used
for afternoon receptions, dinners, etc.,
than the party
may
be
made
27
of heavier materials: Henriettas, Velvets, Broadcloth, Voile,

All
Over Lace over
Silk,
Embroideries,
are
etc.
They may be
light
in color or dark.
They
made high-necked and with
longer
sleeves than the evening gown, usually reaching to the elbow, or

half
way between
the elbow and wrist.
Or they may have long

trimming
sleeves.
Of course these garments must be planned according which

will largely influence the
to the prevailing style,
as well as the material.

as the party gown.
They should not be
so heavily
trimmed
Sometimes a better
style
can be obtained
large
by just a little touch here and there than by placing a amount of trimming on the gown.
Now we
come
to the
Every Day Gown:
Almost any material

In planning this
it is
may
be used for
this class of
gown, ex-
cept transparent materials.
These are too dressy.
to be
worn and
gown we must consider the time of year when in what climate. Whether in the north or
skirts
south.
For some years past the
with separate waists have been

largely used,
very popular, while they are
still
we
are breaking
away from
of the
It
is
this style
and are going back again
to the full dress
same
material.
figures.
not best to suggest to your patron large
Only a
very slender figure can wear these.
When
they are used they
must be matched and usually cut all oneway of the goods thus necessitating the
buying
of a large quantity of goods.
Plain goods,
small checks or tiny figures are best.
It will always
improve
your gown
if
you put
in
it
a yoke of something light in color.
This seems to relieve the complexion.

lined, unless the
The waist
is
usually
of per-
goods
is
very heavy.
good quality
caline or
spun
be made to with
it.
makes the best lining. A drop skirt should match the gown or of some color which blends well
silk
If the
goods
is
thin
enough
to
show the
lining through,
If not,
the lining of the waist and skirt should
match
in color.
will
a dark shade of grey always looks well and

If
it
not crock.
your patron wishes a
silk
lining
it
should be of a good
28

of
quality
linings.
Taffeta.
We
do not recommend
silk
for
waist
In deciding on the quantity of goods required for a gown, experience

is
the best teacher.
You must
think of three things.

fold,
Width
of goods,
whether single or double
and the
style of
the gown.
The measures
of the
is
patron must be considered, but unless

It usually takes
of unusual size this
not important.
from
5^
to 9 yards of double width goods

single width.
and from 14
full
to 20 yards of
The amount depends on how
the gowns are
being made.
Do
not trust too
much
to
what the
clerk tells you.
They
are
apt to give small measure.
For the cotton lining ij^
for the waist,

all
^ for the sleeves

required.
and
5%
yds. for the drop skirt will be
that
is
This varies
with the style.
LESSON IV
THE CHART WITH WHICH THE DRAFTING
IS
DONE
The
chart consists of two pieces of cardboard, the edges of

to
which are cut
form
all
the different curves needed to draft
any garment.
The two
pieces are hinged together so that
by
swinging one about on the other, the longer curves
formed without using the long systems or charts used
may be in many
methods
of drafting.
Each curve
curve are
are used,
named according to its use and the ends of each lettered. The intermediate points in the curves which One corner of the chart is left a are also lettered.
is
true square so that
it
may be used to
where
it
square one
line
with another.
When
point
is
called for use
any point
one
inside the brace
which
will cause the curve to fall
should.
line
When
in the direcit
tions for the drafts
it
says, square
with another,
means
that the one line
must be exactly perpendicular with
the other.
One must form
a right angle with the other.
To do
pencil,
the drafting one should be supplied with a good hard

eraser,
an
and a good straight yardstick.

if
It will be
found
more convenient
the yardstick
is
is
sawed
off at
about 27 inches,
as the yard length
rather
unhandy
any
to use.
The paper used may be

draft.
of
size large
is
enough to take the
good quality manilla paper
the best.
29
TK
The Chivi Closed
LESSON V
HOW
The
ing.
TO TAKE MEASURES
is
taking of measures
the
most important part
of draft-
If the
measures are not taken correctly one can never hope

fit.
to
make
a draft that will
The
drafting of a garment
is
no
different
If
from the drafting

is
of a house, a bridge, or a machine.
one line
inaccurate the entire draft will
come wrong.
You
cannot be too careful in taking your measures.
Above
all
things
do not hurry and do not get excited when taking measures.

If the
person for
whom
the garment
is
being
made
does not
wish to give time for you to take her measures you should
not try to
make
the garment for her.
Before you begin to take the measures, be sure that the patron
is
standing squarely on both
The measures taken

i.
2.
are
feet.
Waist measure.
Bust measure.
3.
Neck measure.
Armhole measure.
4.
5.
Under Arm measure. Upper Front measure.
6.
7.
Back Length measure.
Back Width measure. 9. Front Length measure. 10. Arm Length measure. 11. Elbow measure.
8.
12. 13.
Inside
arm measure from armhole

measure.
skirt.
to
bend
of arm.
Hand
14.
Front Length of
32
34
15.
16. 17.

Side Length of skirt.
Back Length of Hip measure.
skirt.
Waist Measure.
Stand
Be
in front of the patron.
Place the
tape-line about the smallest part of the waist.
should be very tight.

the waist, and
sure
This measure you have the smallest part of

as tight as a
draw the measure
garment could be
worn.
After taking this measure, place a cord or tape at least y% inch
wide about the smallest part of the waist and do not remove
it
until
you are through taking measures.
It is a
good plan
to
have a piece of tape about
of
an inch wide to the end of which

This can easily and quickly
has been fastened a small buckle.
be adjusted about the waist and stay in place nicely.
Bust Measure.
line
Stand back of the patron.

it it
Place the tapetogether at the
about the body under the arms and bring
center back.
Hold
firmly together with the right
hand and
through
step to the side of the patron.
Allow the tape-line to
slip
the fingers and bring
it
down
in front over the highest part of
the bust. the back.
Keep
it
well
up under the arms and

will
straight across
let
Allow the patron to draw a long breath and

as she does this, so that
it
the
tape
slip
be easy about the
body.
Neck Measure.
Have the patron remove her

it
collar;
it is
never
try to take the neck measure over a collar unless
sewed to
the dress, then take
tightly
enough
to allow for the collar.
Place the tape-line about the neck where the collar should sew
on,
is
and measure about as
tight as the collar
would be worn.
It
a good plan to ask the patron
what
size linen collar she wears.
This gives an idea as to whether you are getting your measure

correct or not.
Armhole Measure.
Take
this
measure about the shoulder
up high where the arm
joins the body.
Be
sure to take
it
up
over the high part of the bone.
This measure should be taken

tight, tighter
35
than the armhole can be worn.
The armhole can

and
all
be cut out
later,
but
if it
comes too large

be
is
in the draft
the
seams have
to
be taken in to make
style will
lost.
it right,
the good lines which
gave the waist

under the arm.
Be sure
to take it tight
and be
sure the patron's sleeve
not bunched up under the tape-line,
Before taking the next measure, place a piece of tape or cord
about the patron so that

very sure that
it
it
comes
close
up under the arms.

It
runs just straight around the body.
Be must
not be allowed to dip
down anywhere.
Draw
it
rather tight.
Do
not pay any attention to the prominent part of the bust.

it
Just have
perfectly straight about the body, close
up under the
arms.
Under Arm Measure.
Take
line,
this
measure directly under
the arm, from the top of this
straight
the line at the bottom of the waist.
down to the bottom of Have the patron raise her

She must not
raise it
arm
just
enough
to take this measure.
way
up.
Upper Front Measure.
Place the end of
the
tape-line
exactly on the prominent bone at the back of the neck.
Bring
the tape-line around the side of the neck close up to the neck and
straight
down
in front to the top of the line
which was placed
around the body under the arms.

line
Be
sure that
you bring the

It
down
exactly straight from the side of the neck.
must
not slant towards the back or front.
Back Length Measure.
Place
the end of the tape-line on
the prominent bone at the back of the neck and measure straight
down
the back to the bottom of the line about the smallest part
of the waist.
Be
sure to take this measure straight down.
It
must not
slant to right or left.
Stand directly back of the patron
to take this measure.
Back Width Measure.

back about the middle
ure wide enough.
This
to
measure
is
taken across the
of the armholes.
Be
sure to get the measto the
Do not pay any attention

Measure out
garment the
patron has on.
where the arms join the body.
36

straight
Both arms should be

measure
is
down
at the sides,
when
this
taken.
Front Length Measure.
Place
the end of
the tape-line
just where the neck should finish in front
and measure straight
down
just as
the front to the bottom of the line about the smallest
part of the waist.
Do
not draw this measure

to set
tight.
Make
it
you want the waist
when
finished.
Arm Length Measure.

the front of the
Place
the
the end of the tape-line at

joins the
arm where
arm
body about on a
straight line with the thumb.
Measure
straight
down
the
arm
to the creases about the wrist joint.
When
taking this measure
have the patron stretch the
arm out
this
at right angles to the body.
Elbow Measure.
is
Take
measure around the arm at the
elbow with the arm bent at right angle.

over the point of the elbow.
Inside
this
Be
sure the tape-line
Arm Measure from Armhole
to
Bend
of
Arm.
Take
measure from the same point you did the arm length meas-
ure
down to the inside of the elbow. Have the patron bend her arm so that you can locate the exact stopping-place. Hand Measure. This measure is taken about the hand with the fingers held straight out and the thumb close against the hand. Take this measure just snug, not tight. Front Length of Skirt. Take this measure from the lower
edge of the tape about the waist line at the exact middle of the
front of the skirt, straight
floor.
down
is
the front of the skirt to the

off
When you
cut your pattern you can take

It
what you
any
wish from
this length.
best to take this measure to the
floor, for it is difficult to tell just
where to stop
in taking it
other way.
Side Length of Skirt.
Take
this
measure from the lower edge
of the tape about the waist line, half

of the
back and the middle
of the
way between the middle front, straight down the side

this
of the skirt to the floor.
Back Length
of
Skirt.
Take
measure from a point
at the middle of the back, at the lower edge of the tape about
38

line,
the waist
floor.
straight
down
the middle of the back to the
Take Hip Measure.

below the waist
hips.
If
Take
this
measure about
5 or 6 inches
line, straight
around the prominent part
of the
the skirts are being
worn very
tight this
measure
should be taken snug.

just easy.
If
If the skirts are full
take the measure
you are
need very
careful in taking these measures, your

little fitting,
garments
will
perhaps not any.
Few of us, however,

is
have perfect forms.

inches, so it
correctly.
is
bound
The method to come right
of drafting
if
worked out in
the measures are taken
LESSON VI
DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST
Measures used
Waist measure Neck measure
for draft given
25
inches inches
inches
13^
15
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Upper Front measure Front Length measure Under Arm measure
39
inches
inches inches
inches
13^ 10^
15
7^
inches
i.
2.
Draw line A-B length of Back Length measure. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure.
At C square a line with line A-B. From C measure on this line
D.
line
Mark
this point C.
3.
4.
% of Bust measure.
of
Mark
this point
5.
From C on
At
C-D measure Yi
Back Width measure.
Mark
6.
7.
this point E.
square line with line C-D.

this line
From E on
Measure
2
measure
1-3
of
Armhole measure.
this point G.
Mark
8.
this point F.
Y inch above point B.
Mark
9.
At
10.
G square a line with line G-A. From G on this line measure ij^ inches. Mark
on the chart at point
this point
H.
n. Place point
through H.
B and draw
curve
12. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through and F.
39
40
13.

Extend
I.
this
curve beyond point
F Y2
of
inch.
Mark
this
point
14.
From E measure on
this point J.
line
C-D 34
Armhole measure.
Mark
15.
Find a point half way between J and E.
Mark
this point
K.
16. 17.
At point J square a
line
with
line
D-C.
this point
From J on
this line
measure
2^ inches. Mark
I
L.
18.
Place point

and draw curve

curve
through K.
19.
Place point
L and draw
this point
through K.
20.
21.
Extend
line
E-F up
1% inches. Mark
line
2
M.
At point
22.
From
M square a with line E-M. M on this line measure inches. Mark this point
F on
the chart at
N.
23.
Place point
L and draw
curve through
N.
24. 25.
Measure curve I-H.
From
N measure the length of line I-H.

line
Mark
this point
O.
26.
Square a
with
D-C
so that
it will
pass through point
O.
27.
Measure from
less
line
D-C on
this line,
the
Upper Front
this point
measure
P.
28.
what
point
is
used in the Back Neck.
Mark
From
measure down 34
inch.
of
neck measure.
Mark
this point Q.
29.
From Q measure up Y2
At
Mark
1-6 of
this point
R.
30.
31.
square a line with line Q-R.
On
this line
from
measure
Neck measure, and
add 34
32.
inch.
Mark
this point S.
Place point J on the chart at S and draw curve through
P.
S'HIRT
WAIST
DRAFT.
WV V
42
33.
From
point T.
on
line
C-D measure
inch to the
left.
Mark
34.
this point
At T square a line with line C-D and draw length

measure.
of
Under
Arm
35.
36.
Mark
this point
1
U.
From
U measure
B
inch to the right.
Mark
this
point V.
Place point
and draw curve
through V.
37.
38.
Measure
inch to
left of
U.
Mark
this point
W.
Place point
and draw curve
through
39.
40.
W. Draw From
line
from S through D.
S measure Front Length measure.
Mark
this
point X.
In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
LESSON
VII
DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE
Measures used
Arm Length Arm Length
for draft given
20
<p>
1
measure
to
inches
Elbow
inches inches
Elbow measure
2%
8
Hand measure
Armhole measure
inches
inches
15
Draw line A-B Arm Length measure. 2. From A on line A-B measure Arm Length Mark this point C 3. At B square a line with line A-B. 4. At C square a line with line A-B.
i. 5.
to
Elbow.
At
square a line with line A-B.

line
6.
From B measure on
drawn drawn
inch.
Mark Mark
left.
this point
D.
7.
From C measure on
Extend
line
line
% inch.
this point
E.
8.
drawn
at A,
inch to the
Mark
this
point F.
9.
Place point
on the chart at F and draw curve through
E.
10.
11.
Connect points
and
1
with a straight
line.
From
From
D
G
measure
inch to the right.
Mark
this point
G.
12.
measure to the right
inches
more than the

this point I.
hand measure.
13.
Mark
this point
H.
1
From
H measure to
D
the right
inch.
Mark
The
distance between
and
G and H
43
and
I is for gathers.
44
14.
From E on
line
drawn measure Yi mcn

the
to the right.
Mark
this point J.
15.
From J measure
From
Elbow measure.
measure
inch.
Mark Mark
this point
K.
16.
K
A
to the right
}/%
this point
L.
17.
Connect points
L and
by
straight line.
18.
From
measure on
line
drawn the Armhole measure.

2 inches.
Mark
19.
this point
M.
From
M measure to the right

line
Mark
this point
N.
20.
2Y2 inches. Mark this point 0. 21. Square a line with line A-B at point 0.
Extend
A-B above
line
22.
From A on
From
A-N measure i%
inches to the
inches.
Mark
this
point P.
23.
M measure 3
line
left.
Mark
this point
q.
24.
At P square a At
with
line
A-N and mark
the point
where
25.
this line touches the line
from point 0.
square a line with line
A-N and mark
the point S
where
26.
from O.
Place point
D
G
on the chart at
L and draw
curve through
N.
27.
Place point
and draw curve
through point F.
28.
Place point
through point
29.
F on the chart at point S and draw a curve M. Continue the curve to point N. Find the point half way between P and Q. Mark this
Using
point T.
30.
as a center
and T-R
as a radius
draw an arc
from
31.
32.
to S.
Find a point half way between
G and H.
From
this point
square a line with line B-I and draw

this point
of
an inch long.
33.
Mark
U.
using curve
Connect
with I and
C-D on
the chart.
5"
fiirt-
Waist Sleeve.
1?
s_
/
t-y
P
AV
7/v
5'
46
34.
The
if
cuff is drafted straight.
Two
inches longer than the
hand measure and

curved
desired.
3 inches wide.
The lower
corner
may
be
all
seams.
LESSON
VIII
DRAFTING THE BLOUSE -WAIST
The
i.
only changes
blouse-waist
are
made
in the shirt-waist to
make
the
Change the Under Arm seam from
to
K.
back and the
2.
Draw both
the
Under Arm seam

from
for the
front, a straight slant

3.
K through V and W.
the
The one through
V
is
is
Under Arm seam

i]4, inches.
for the front
and the one through

4.
5.
the
Under Arm
of the back.
Slant the middle back out
Add
4 inches to the bottom of the waist for blouse.
6.
7.
Hem the bottom with a narrow hem and run an elastic in it. Cut away the front to a V shaped opening, line b, and finsailor collar.
ish
neck with a large
47
LESSON IX
HOW
TO CUT THE SAILOR COLLAR, OR ANY LARGE COLLAR
people draft the sailor collar but
it
Many
time, so
takes considerable
we
will
teach you a
fail to fit
much
quicker and simpler

it is
way and
one which
will
not
the garment for which
intended.
After the draft of the waist has been
cut from paper, pin the shoulder seam together.

right
made and the pattern Be sure to pin

flat
on the
line of
each part.
Spread the pattern out
on the
table
and place the center back on a straight edge

in place.
of the paper,
and pin
Measure from the neck down the back the

and square a
line
depth the
the waist. the back.
collar is desired
with the back

is
line of
Draw
this line
out as wide as the collar

far
line
to
be across
Now
decide
how
you wish the

best
collar to extend
line just
down
drawn
the front and
draw a
from the end of the
to the point in front.

is
The
way
to shape the outer
edge of the collar
to cut the
neck portion and then pin the
pattern to the bust form and cut the edge any shape desired.
You can see in this way just how the collar will look when ished. Any lay down collar may be cut in this way.
fin-
49
/
\
\
How
To Cut
The S&ilor Collar

\
Lar{ Colli v.
<
LESSON X
HOW
To make
where.
the
TO DRAFT THE KIMONO WAIST

waist.
kimono
Trace
off
the draft of the shirt-
waist on another piece of paper.
Cut
out, allowing
seams every-
Pin the back pattern to the front at the shoulder seam

flat
and spread out

of the paper.
on the
it
table.
Take a
back
large sheet of paper

line
and
place the pattern on
having the front
on a straight edge
This
will bring the

it will
bias.
Draw
little
a line from
the neck out so that
divide the
will
Armhole into two very

be a
\
x
nearly equal parts. the front.
The back part

lines
smaller than
Draw two
beginning about
/i inches below the
Armhole on the under arm seam almost parallel to the line just drawn. They should come together very slightly towards
the ends.
Draw
It
these lines as long as
you wish the
sleeve to
be
and connect them with a

of the waist.
is
straight line.
This forms the sleeve
never best to try to

it is difficult
make
the sleeves
much
they
more than elbow

are
length, as
to raise the
arm
if
much
longer.
it
In basting up the kimono waist,
should always be basted

it is
with seams on the right

After
it
side until after

fitted,
tried
on and
fitted.
has been thoroughly

it will
French seam with a very
narrow seam so that

These waists
turn well.
may
be as fancy as one wishes, having tucks
or shirring over the shoulder.
For a dress waist they are often

This gives more
made with a
lining
having a sewed in sleeve.

is
freedom in raising the arm, and the sleeve

out under the arm.
should be quite loose.
not so liable to tear
For the Kimono Shirt-Waist the sleeve
51
/ 1
1 i
1
f
1
I
j
li i 1T>
1)
1
1
WcLlSt
/
,( / *-/
""
LESSON XI
THE MAKING AND FINISHING OF THE SHIRT-WAIST
You
have learned
to draft the Shirt-Waist
and the
Shirt-
Waist Sleeve.
We
will
now
take up the making and finishing
of the shirt-waist.
After the draft has been made, trace
off
each part of the waist
on another piece of paper.
Cut out, allowing seams everywhere.

should be shrunk.
press.
This gives you an exact pattern to use in cutting out the waist.
Before using cotton goods
it
Place in
warm water
is
over night and
when nearly dry
If the
goods
colored put some
salt in the water.
Put
enough
all plaits
and tucks
in the goods before laying
on the
pattern.
If there is
no up or down to the goods, a piece long
to cut
both fronts
may
be cut
off
and the two tucked

cut out but
at once.
All trimming should be put on after the waist
is
before
If
it is
basted up.
is
the waist
to be tailor
this,
made,
it will
have a box
plait
down
the front.
To make
cut a straight strip from the edge of the
goods wide enough to allow for turning under.

be just the length of one side of the front.
This piece should
Baste the piece on

is
the edge of the cloth from which the right side front
cut,
to be
and
stitch J^ inch
from both edges.
(See
111.)
Your tucks
this plait.
must be planned
If
to
come
at the right distance
from
you only want

off for fronts
to tuck
yoke deep, fold the goods you have

(See
111.)
cut
together in the center crosswise.

part,
Measure on each
from the fold down, just
how deep you
wish the yoke to come and tuck between the marks.

If
you wish the tucks
to
grow shorter towards the armholes,

53
54

the goods slanting.
mark
To put
in the tucks, fold the cloth
lengthwise just where you want the tucks to come.

the width
Measure
you want the tucks and put
in with a running stitch
or on the machine.
waist.
Press the tucks before you try to cut the

fold the goods together to cut the fronts, be
lie
When you
sure that the tucks for each piece
exactly on top of each other.
Cut from the goods, marking

Baste up and try on.
the seams of the waist.
line to
all
seams with the tracing wheel.
Baste on the collar band, after stitching
To
cut the collar band

radius of 10 inches.
use your tape-
draw a
circle.
Take a
Use the corner

of
of the paper for the center of the circle

circles i
and draw parts
two
inch apart.
Measure
off
enough length, from the edge
of the paper on the lower circle, for
^ the neck measure.

if
Cut
it
out the pattern and allow seams on both sides when you cut
from the
cloth.
To
finish the
bottom
of the shirt-waist sleeve,

if
tailor
made.
an
Make
a cuff of three thicknesses of goods,

if
cotton, or with
interlining of cotton,
wool,
3^
inches wide and ioj^ inches
long, straight of the goods lengthwise.

line
Slash the sleeves up on
W-V about 4 inches.

111. 1)
Baste on the under edge of this opening
strip of
goods about ij^ inches wide, having turned in the

so that
it
edges (see
projects from the opening.
Lay
the sleeve on the table right side up, and place over this
piece just sewed on a piece about
2^
inches wide which has
been folded in the middle lengthwise and both edges turned

in.
Place the lengthwise fold of this piece so that
it
just covers
come on the right side of the sleeve and the under edge on the wrong side of the sleeve just opposite the other. Baste into place and
the under seam.
in edge of the piece will
stitch.
The upper turned
It looks best to finish the
upper end of
this piece,
which
comes on the right
side of the sleeve, to a point.
Stitch about
the point on the machine.

sleeve.
(See
Ills.
and
2.)
Stitch
up the
Gather the bottom, leaving
i^
inches each side of the
seam
plain.
Baste the pieces of the cuff together wrong side
out, leaving one long side open.
Turn and baste the edge on

the right side, having the edge very smooth and even.
the open side
to the
of the cuff
55
Notch
Baste
about
inch from the center.
bottom
of the sleeve,
sleeve.
having the shortest part come on the
under side of the
In basting to the sleeve have the right side of the cuff against
the right side of the sleeve.
of
Only baste two

first
of the three pieces
which the
cuff
is
made, at the
the cuff
basting, leaving the third,
or lining, loose.
lining
Turn
down and
all
turn in the edge of the
and baste
in place.
Stitch
four sides of the cuff on the
right side very near the edge.
Gather the top of the sleeve from

side,
about
inches from the
seam on the upper

side.
and 5}^ inches
from the seam on the under

after having tried
Sew
in
and bind the armhole,
on the waist
for the last time.
Work
a button-
hole in each end of the neck band, one in the center of the
back
and one at each end

the front
wishes.
if
of the cuffs.
They may also be worked down

want
it
desired.
Finish the bottom of the waist as the patron
Some
worn.
like the fullness stitched in, while others

it
left loose so
that they can place
where they wish when the
waist
is
The fancy shirt-waist should fasten in the back instead of the front. The same draft is used. It may be tucked yoke deep across the front and down the back, tucked in clusters with insertion of lace or embroidery
between or any sort
of
ornaments
placed on the front.
In making collars and yokes of lace insertion, cut a correct

pattern from white paper.
stitch together
Baste the rows of lace on
this
and
on the machine.
Tear the paper away and you

goods before
have your yoke and

All tucks
collar just the desired shape.
must be placed
in the
it is
cut.
For the fancy waist the sleeves

wishes.
may
be
made
as fancy as one
They may be
short or long as the style demands.
For
the short sleeve, the draft given
may
be used by laying a plait
lengthwise in the pattern thus taking out the gathers, leaving
only a few at the armhole.
A Leg
O'Mutton
sleeve
may be made
from
this
same draft by laying a
plait lengthwise beginning at
CotUvr B<xy\A

the bottom and letting
shirt-waist
it
57
out gradually towards the top.

to
The
dress.
draft
is
used
make
skirt it
the
shirt-waist
Combined with the seven gored

suit.
makes a
fine shirt-waist
LESSON XII
DRAFTING THE TIGHT WAIST WITH BACK FORMS
Measures used
Waist measure
for draft given
25
inches
Neck measure
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
i3> inches
15
inches inches inches
39
13K 15^
io|<4
7^4 Inches
inches inches
inches
16
i.
2.
Draw line A-B length of back. From A measure the Under Arm
Measure up from B J^
Square
line
measure.
Mark
this
point C.
3.
inch.
4.
5.
D-E
with
line
Mark this point D. D-C at point D.
to
is i]/2
inches.
6.
Place point

with
B and draw
curve
through point E.
7.
At C square a
line
line
A-B.
8.
From C on
From C on
At
this line
measure Y2 of Bust measure.

of
Mark
this
this point F.
9.
line
C-F measure J^
line
Back width. Mark
point G.
10.
square a line with
C-F.
of
11.
ure.
From point G measure on this line 1-3 Mark this point H. 12. Place I half way between G and H.
59
Armhole meas-
60
13.
With curve D-C on

Extend
J.
the chart,
draw curve through

inches.
and H.
14.
line
G-H above
line
point
H 1%
Mark
this
point
15.
At J square a
with
line G-J.
2
16.
17.
From J on
this point
this line
measure
line
inches.
of
Mark
this point
K.
Measure from
L.
on
C-F J4
line
Armhole measure.
Mark
18.
Square a
line at
with
C-F and draw 2Y2 inches

G.
long.
19.
Mark
this point
Find a point
M. half way between L and
Mark
this
point N.
20.
21
Extend curve E-H Y2 inch beyond H. Place point G on the chart at the end of
left,
this curve, holding
the chart to the

22.
and draw a curve through point N.

Place point
M and draw a curve

holding chart to the
through
23.
left,
and N.
Place point
F on
full
the chart at point
M,
and draw curve through points

Measure the
M and K.
E-H and mark
it
24.
length of curve
the same
distance from
25.
on
line
line
K-O.
line
Mark
C-F
this point 0. will
Square a
with
so that
run through
point O.
26.
Measure up on
this point P.
this line
from
line
C-F the length
of
Upper Front measure
less
what
is
used in the back of the neck.
Mark
27.
With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through P and
K.
28.
From P measure down

Square a
line at
Y of Neck measure.
line
Mark
this
point Q.
29.
with
P-Q.
30.
Measure from Q,
1-6 of the
Neck measure and add \i
inch.
31.
Mark
this point
R.
Place point J on the chart at
R and draw a curve through
P.

32.
61
Measure on
Square a
line
R-F
the Front Length measure.
Mark
this point S.
33. 34.
line
with
line
C-F
at point
N.
Measure down on
this point T.
this
line
the
Under Arm measure.
Mark
35.
Draw
a line from
T
on
to A.
line
36.
Measure from
A-T
% of an inch.
T
and U.
Mark
this
point U.
37.
38.
Draw
line
B-U.
Mark
this
point
39.
W.
From
point
W measure
F on
to the right 2}^ inches.
Mark
this point V. 40.
Place point
the chart at a point
% of an inch below
through V.
and draw with curve F-C on the

41.
chart, a curve
Place point
on the chart at the point where curve I-V
crosses line
42.
C-F and draw curve through point W. Measure towards the right from T on line A-T
X.
the chart
inch.
Mark
43.
this point
With curve D-C on
draw a curve through points

left
and X.
44.
From
point
T measure
B on
C on
towards the
i}4 inches.
Mark
this point
Y.
the chart at point
45.
Place point
and draw curve

left.
through points
46.
N and Y,
holding the chart to the

the chart at S and
Place point
draw curve through

inch.
Y.
47.
From
point S measure towards the right
Mark
curve
this point Z.
48.
Place point
Z.
B on
the chart at point
F and draw
inches.
through
49.
From Z towards
a.
the right measure
1%
Mark
this
point
50.
To find out how much
to take out in the darts,
Find on
Now
the tape-line Yi of Waist measure.
Place this point at U.
62
measure from
which
falls
to V,
to
and Z
to a.
Place the point
at a, at point
and with what
is left
measure
to-
wards point Z.
to a
is
Mark
this point.
The
distance from this point
what must be taken out

d),
in darts, less the space

i
we
leave
between the darts (b to

front dart
51.
is
which should be about

back one.
inch.
The
always
to
made
larger than the
52.
53.
From a From d
c
e.
is
width of front dart.
In this case 3 inches. In this case

f is
to e is
width of back dart.
inches.
is
half
way between a and b and
half
way between
from
d and
54.
From
c through a point
on the shoulder
from point
line 1 inch
P,
draw a
55.
line.
Measure up on
this line,
c,
8 inches for a
this point g.
tall
person and 6 inches for a short person.
Mark
(8 ins. is
used in this draft.)

point g measure towards the right 3 inches exactly
56.
From
parallel with line C-F.

57.
e-h.
Mark
this point h.
With curve C-D on
the chart,
draw curves
and
a-g, b-g, h-d,
58.
59. 60.
Measure down from points U, T,

Connect points
f,
c,
Z, 5 inches.
and
i.
From a point half way between V and W, square a line with line A-T and draw 5 inches long. Mark this point j. 61. Connect point j with V and j with W, with straight lines. 62. Extend line N-T down 5 inches. Mark this point k.
63.
Connect point k with X.
64. 65.
Measure
to the right of k,
inch,
mark
this point
1.
Place point
1.
F on
the
chart
at
and draw curve
through
66.
Make
the distance from

b.
to
n and o
line.
to
p about
less
than from e to d and a to

67.
Connect a and e with a straight
68. 69.
Draw
line
Z-q straight down

e,
5 inches.
a.
Connect
Note
In drafting
m and
n and
d,
o and b, p and
any
of the waists
below the waist
line,
Ti$li Waist D-ri}h
Wii
Back
P
F^-r
>rx.
V//7n
64
it will

be found necessary to change the measures for different
persons.
Some who have very

some with
small waist measure will have
large hips, while

hips.
large waist
measure
will
have small
little
Use the hip measure and change each measure a
so
that the draft 5 inches below the waist line will be the exact
hip measure.
In cutting out the Armhole of any waist, remember that you

took the measure tighter than
cut out more than the draft.
it
could be worn, so
it
must be
See dotted line on draft.
In cutting the pattern from the draft allow seams everywhere.
LESSON
XIII
DRAFTING THE WAIST WITHOUT BACK FORMS
Measures
used in draft given
25
Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure

Bust measure
inches
i$}4 inches
15
39
Back Width measure Under Arm measure

Front Length measure
13^
72< inches i$}4 inches
Upper Front measure Back Length measure
10^
16
inches
inches
i.
2.
Draw line A-B From B to D is

At
length of back.
3.
J^ inch. square a line with line A-B.
4.
On
this line
measure from point
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point E.
5.
Place point

with A-B.
B and draw
curve
through E.
6.
7.
At point C square a
line
On
this line
measure from point
Yi the Bust measure.
Mark
8.
this point F.
From
point
C on line C-F measure J^ of back width. Mark

square a line with line C-F.
this point
9.
G.
At point
10.
On
this line
measure from G,
1-3 of
Armhole measure.
Mark
11
this point
H.
Place point
on the chart at
and draw curve through
H and extend curve Y2 inch beyond H.

6s
66
12.

Measure on
line
G-H, from point H,
3-4 inches.
Mark
this point I.
13.
From G on
line
C-F measure 34 Armhole measure.
Mark
this
this point J.
14.
Find a point half way between J and G.
Mark
point L.
15. 16.
At point J square a line with line C-F. Measure on this line from J, 2^ inches.
Place point
Mark
of curve
this
point
M.
17.
on the chart at the end
E-H and
draw a curve through point L.

18.
Place point
O on the chart at M and draw a curve through

F on
I-K
the chart at
L.
19.
Place point
M and draw a curve through

K.
this point
K.
20.
21.
Extend
line
to the left of
On
this line
measure from
with
K the same length as the curve

N.
pass through
so that
it will
from
22.
extended through H.
line
Mark
C-F
Square a
line
N.
23.
measure,
24. 25.
this line from line C-F the Upper Front Back Neck measure. Mark this point O. With curve D-C draw a curve through K and O.
Measure on
less
the
From O measure down 34

At P square a
line
the
Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P.
26.
27.
with line O-P.

1-6 of the
On
this line
measure from P,
Neck measure
and add 34
28.
inch.
Mark
this point Q.
Place point J on the chart at point O.

29.
30.
Draw a On this
this
straight line from

line
through F.
Mark
31.
S.
measure from Q, the Front Length measure. point R.
Find a point half way between J and L.
Mark
this point

32.
67
33.
At point S, square a line with Measure on this line from
line line
C-F.
C-F the Under Arm

line.
measure.
34.
Mark
this point T.
Connect
and
with a straight
35.
From
measure on
this line 1 inch.
Mark
this point 17.
36.
37.
Connect
and B.
U
V
and
and measure
J^.
inch to the right of this point.

38.
Mark
this point V.
Place point
C on
the chart at
and with curve C-F on
the chart, draw a curve through point G.

39.
From V measure
Place point
inch to the
left.
Mark
this point
W.
40.
B on
the chart at
G and draw a curve through

Mark
this point
W.
41.
Measure
inch to the right of T.
X.
S..
42.
43.
44.
With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from X Measure ij^ inches to the left of T. Place point C on the chart at X, and draw curve
Measure from
of the
to
to S-
45.
U to V and from W to X.
}/&
This shows
how
much
46.
Waist measure has been used in the back.
From
measure to the right
inch.
Mark
this
point
Z.
47.
line
Place point
on the chart at Z and draw curve touching

measure towards point Z what
is
F-R.
48.
From
point
is left
of
the Waist measure after taking out what
used in the back.
Mark
49.
this point.
Measure the distance from
this point to Z.
This gives
in to the
what must be taken out
in darts to bring the
garment
proper Waist measure, in this case

50.
4% inches.
2%
inches and the back
We
will
make
the Front Dart
one
inches.
51.
Place point
C on
2
the chart at
and draw curve C-F

this point a.
through Y.
52.
From Z measure
inches.
Mark
68

53.
From a measure
2%
inches (Front Dart).
Mark
this
point b.
54.
55.
56.
57.
line
From b, measure 1 inch. Mark this point c. From c measure 2 inches (Back Dart). Mark this point d. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point e. From a point 1 inch to the right of O draw a straight
e.
through
58.
From
measure up on
this line 8 inches for a tall
person
and 6
for a short person
(we use 8 inches in this draft).
Mark
f
this point f
59. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from and from f to b.
to
60. g61.
line
and
d.
Mark
and
this point
Measure from
f,
3 inches to the right
parallel to
Mark this point h. 62. Draw a straight line connecting h and g. 63. With curve D-C on the chart connect h and d and h and c. 64. To form the bottom of the waist. Measure down 5 inches from A. Mark this point Connect
C-F.
i.
and
65.
with a straight
line.
and W.
At
this
point
square a line with line A-T.

66.
j.
Measure down on
j
this line 5 inches.

j
Mark
lines.
this point
Connect
67.
and V, and
line
and
W with straight
5
Extend
S-T down
inches.
line.
Mark
this point k.
Connect k and
68.
X
1
with a straight
Measure
Extend
inch to the right of k.
Mark
this point
1.
69.
70.
71
Place point
line
F on
h-g
the chart at Y, and

5 inches.
draw curve
m.
to
1.
down
Mark
this point
Using Y2 the distance from c to d as a measure and placing the middle of this distance at m, mark points either side of
mo
72.
line e-f
and
n.
Connect n with d and o with
by
straight lines.
Extend
down
5 inches.
Mark
this point p.
Ti$M Waist
ri
Wit A out
#ac?(
Form
7o
73.
With p
points
r
as a center, using Y% the distance from a to b,
mark
74. 75. 76.
and
q.
lines.
Connect r and a, and q and b with straight Extend curve Z straight down 5 inches. Connect a and d with a straight
line.
Note For a person with a very large waist measure it is best to make the distance from b to c a little more, say ij^ inches,
or even
2 inches.
is
This waist
the best one to use for linings as the back form

is
seam
is
apt to show especially where the goods
thin.
LESSON XIV
DRAFTING THE WAIST WITH FRENCH FORMS
Measures used
Waist measure
in this draft
25
inches inches
inches inches
Neck measure
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure .Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
'.
isH
15
39
13K
7^
15^
:
io>^ inches
16
inches
i.
Draw
line
A-B
the length of
Back measure.
2.
Measure from
the
Under Arm measure.
Mark
this
point C.
3.
to
4.
5.
At
J^ inch. square a line with A-D.

is
Measure from
Place point
on
this line
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
6.
on the chart at
with
B and draw
curve through
E.
7.
At C square a
line
line
A-B.
8. 9.
F is 3^2 C From C on
to
of
Bust measure.
line
C-F measure Y2
of
Back Width measure.
Mark
10.
this point G.
11.
At G square a line with line C-F. Measure on this line from point G,
1-3 of
Armhole meascurve through
ure.
12.
Mark
this point
H.
Place point
on the chart at
E and draw
H.
Extend curve Y2 inch beyond H.

71
72
13.
I.

Extend
line
G-H above
H 1%
inches.
Mark
this
point
14. 15.
At
I square a line with line G-I.

this line
On
measure from
I,
2 inches.
Mark
this point
16.
From
G on line
K.
C-F measure 34
of the
Armhole measure.
Mark
17. 18. 19.
this point
At
K and G. K square a line with line C-F.

this line,
Measure on
2^
inches from K.
Mark
this
point
20.
M.
Measure
full
length of curve
measure from J on
21.
line I- J, extended.
E-H and mark the same Mark this point N.
Place point
on the chart at point on the chart at
and draw curve
through L.
22.
Place point
and draw a curve
through L.
23.
J. j-
Place point
F on
the chart at
M and draw curve through

so that it will pass through
Place point
on the chart at
with
24.
Square a
line
line
C-F
from
point N.
25.
Measure on
less
this line
is
line
C-F the Upper Front
measure,
O.
26.
what
used in the Back Neck.
Mark
this point
From
measure on
this line
34 the Neck measure. O-P.

1-6 of
Mark
this point P.
27.
At P square a
Measure on
line
with
line
28.
this line
from
Neck measure.
Add
J4 inch.
29.
Mark
this point Q.
30.
31.
Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 0. From Q draw line through F.
From Q on
this point
this line
measure the Front Length measure.
Mark
32.
R.
line
At L square a
with line C-F.

33.
73
Measure on
this point S.
this line
from
the
Under Arm measure.
Mark
34.
Connect S and
with a straight
line.
-
35.
From
on
this line
measure
% oi an mcn
line.
Mark
this
point T.
36. 37.
Connect
and
with a straight
2
Measure on the shoulder curve

this point
inches from the Armhole.
Mark
38.
U.

left of this point.
and S and measure
J/
inch to the
39.
Mark
this point V.
From
V measure
i} inches to the right.
Mark
this
point
W.
40. 41.
line
Connect
and
W with a straight
the chart at
line.
Place point
C on
and
let
point
touch
U-W. Draw
Measure
curve.
1
42.
to the right of S,
inch.
Mark
this point
X.
43. Place point
on the chart at
X.
44.
45.
Measure
to the left of S ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
Y.
Place point
on the chart at
L.
46.
Measure from Measure from
to
and from
to
X.
This shows
how much
47.
of the waist
measure has been used
in the back.
left of
towards
what
is
the waist
measure, after taking out what was used in the back.

point.
48.
Mark
R.
this
this point to point
This
gives the
amount
to be taken out in the dart to bring the waist
into the correct waist measure.

49.
In this case
it is
4^ inches.
Place point
C on
the chart at
R
2
Y, using curve C-F on the chart.

50.
Measure from J on curve J-0
inches.
Mark
this
point
Z.
51. 52.
Measure from
R 2^
inches.
Mark
this point a.
Connect a and Z with a straight
line.
Tiflt
Wnst wii^
Forms.
Fve Nch
f.i
'e

53.
75
Measure from a on
line a-Z 8 inches for
tall
person and
6 inches for a short person.

54.
Mark
this
point aa.
With curve D-C on

Measure
the chart connect a with aa.
55.
b.
to right of a
4^ inches
(dart).
Mark
this point
56.
Place point
B on
the chart at aa
b.
57.
c.
Find a point half way between a and
b.
Mark
this point
58. 59.
Connect a and b with a straight
line.
At
c square a line
with
line a-b,
and measure from
c,
inches.
60.
Mark
this point d.
x Find /i the distance from a to b and with d as a center, mark points e and f.
61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66.

67.
Connect
and b with a straight

f
line.
line.
Connect a and
with a straight
Extend Extend
line
Q-R below
R
A
5 inches.
line.
Connect b and
line
Y
T
with a straight
A-B below
5 inches.
line.
Mark
and W.
this point h.
Connect h and
with a straight

g.
Mark
this
point
68.
Square a
line at g,
with
i.
line
A-S and measure down from

connect
g, 5 inches.
Mark
line
this point
i
69.
Connect
W and
F
with a straight
line, also
and
i.
70.
71.
72. 73.
Extend
L-S below S
j
5 inches.
1
Measure
Connect
to the right of
inch.
Mark this point j. Mark this point k.
Place point
at
j
Y and draw curve through k.

with a straight
all
X and
line.
seams.
LESSON XV
HOW
TO CUT, FIT AND MAKE THE WAIST
We
have finished planning the gown, and have learned to
draft the different kinds of waists.
We
will
now
take up the
Cutting, Fitting and
Making
of the waist.
After
wheel each piece of the draft
making the draft you should trace, with the tracing off on another piece of paper, and
cut out each part allowing seams everywhere.
Y2 mcn seam should be allowed at the Armhole, Neck and Back Form pieces.
1
inch at the shoulder and
1^
inches at the
Under Arm seams,
down
much need not be allowed Be very at the back unless the waist is to be open there. CAREFUL TO MARK THE TRUE WAIST LINE ON EACH PIECE.
the back and at the front.
This
After the correct pattern has been cut from the paper, spread
the lining out on a table.
Lay
the different parts of the pattern
on the lining to the best advantage to save cloth. Be very CAREFUL THAT THE TRUE WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE IS ON THE
straight of the cloth crosswise, so that they
off
will
not stretch
on the bias when
finished.
Be sure to trace the true
WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE BEFORE YOU PICK UP THE PATTERN,

also trace all seams.
We now have our waist lining all cut out and are ready to baste
it
up.
Begin by basting up the back seam,

if
if
the waist
is
to
open
in front,
not this seam will not be basted.
Next baste the
side forms next to the back, taking
care not to stretch the
seam where
In basting
it is circling.
Last of
all
the second form seams.
all
seams the pieces
must always be pinned together

to baste
at the waist line before
you begin
and they should

It
is
always be made
to come out even at the armhole.

full
always
best to pin the seam the
length before you begin to baste.

77
78

Baste the darts in the front pieces, pinning the waist
line first.
After these are basted, baste the under

der seams.
arm seams and

do not crush or
the waist
is
shoul-
Be very
fit
careful not to lose the little curves in the

lining,
soil it.
shoulder seams.
It will never
In basting the
well
if
you
do.
Now
all
basted
and we are ready

If
to have our patron come for a

to take
first fitting.
you have learned

if
your measures correctly there should

to
be very few,
any changes
make.
have put
on persons where there were no changes

if
to
many linings make at all. Of course
is out of shape in any way, their lining must be fitted. Your patron has come to be fitted. Place the lining on her and pin up very carefully, following the tracing either in front
a person
or in the back as the case
may be.
neck
is
To
seam.
fit
the waist.
If
If the
little tight,
cut out a small

little
very
tight,
open the shoulder seam a
way and
If the
let out.
If the lining is too tight or too loose at the bust, it

let
should be taken in or
out at the under arm seam.
waist draws from the neck to the armhole, open the shoulder
seam
at the neck
and
let
out in front.
Be
sure the waist
is
loose
enough between the shoulders and that

the armhole.
If it
is,
it is
not too loose at

little.
take in the form seams a
After the lining has been thoroughly fitted,
all
the seams
should be stitched and pressed open on the pressing cushion,

after they
have
all
been trimmed to about
3^2
inch.
Clip each
careful
seam Y2 inch below and above the waist

It
is
line.
Be very
not to stretch the seams or lose any of the curves in pressing.

the curve which gives style to the waist.
are ready
We
now
to
bone the
real
lining.
Use the best quality

is
of Featherbone.
Sometimes
whalebone
used, but
it
has
grown very expensive and most dressmakers now substitute

Featherbone.
silk
It will take
about
3 or 4
yards of the bone.

stitch
Use
thread for stitching
it in,
and the longest
your machine
will
make.
You can
will
get the Featherbone in either silk or cotton.

will
The
quality of the
gown
determine which to use.
The
style
line
of the
gown
determine just
how
far
below the waist

the bones should be allowed to run.
outside the skirt,
it
79
to
If the
x
waist
is
be worn
should be boned /i inch at back and sides

line.
and
inch in front below the waist
If a princess
gown
or a
one-piece
gown
of
any
sort, the
bones should run 3 or 4 inches
below the waist
line.
In this case the waist should be fitted

will
very snug about the hips, so that the ends of the bones
stick out.
not
The bones
for
each seam will be of a different length.
The back
waist
line.
center bone should be 6 or 7 inches long above the
Each bone should grow

line.
shorter towards the under

all,
arm seam.
This bone should be the shortest of
about 4 or
inches above the waist
The bones
for the darts should

it will
be
about an inch shorter than the dart so that

front bone should be the
not show.
If the
The
waist
same as the dart bone.
opens in the front there

side of the front.
stitched,
will
be a bone of equal length on each
These bones should be run in the hem and

If
and not placed on the outside as on the seams.

back instead of in the
front, then the front
the
waist opens in the back, the two bones should be run in the
hems
will
in the
bone
be stitched on the same as the others.
Cut the bones about ij^ inches longer than you want them.
Rip the covering back from each end about
bone
off.
^ inch and cut the

end
securely but neatly.
Turn the covering down over the end and fasten Pin the upper end to the seam where you
and spring the bone
should.
so that the lower
it
want
will
it
to come,
come where
The bones
lining
are placed on the inside
of the waist,
and not between the
and the
outside.
Place
it will
under the machine, holding the bone in place so that

follow the seam.
The
lining will stretch to the bone.

1
Always
begin stitching at the top of the bone and
inch from the end.
This leaves
inch of the bone loose at the upper end, and pre-
vents the end showing

are
all
when
and
the waist
is
worn.
After the bones
stitched in,
draw the ends

finished.
of the threads
through on the
right side of the waist
tie securely.
Sew hooks and eyes

for light colors.
on the
lining
and
it is
No.
hooks and eyes with a
hump
are best, black for dark colors
and white
So

are sewed on the right-hand side of the front
If in the
The hooks
when
the waist opens in front.

left-hand side.
back they are placed on the
Pin the two sides of the lining together, being
sure that the true waist lines are even.
Mark with
pins the
place where each hook and each eye should go,
about i J^ inches apart.
making them Both the hooks and eyes must be sewed

coming out just far
is
on the wrong
enough
side of the lining, the eyes
to let the
hooks
slide in.
If the
gown
to
have a fancy
come, as the
yoke, do not sew hooks and eyes where

lining will be cut
this will
away
here, after
we
get the outside ready to
place on
it.
We are ready now to cut the outside.

closely the shape of the lining,
cutting.
If this is to follow rather
we can
use the same pattern for
However,
if it is
to be very different,
we must
cut a
new
pattern, always leaving the shoulder
and armhole the same

to look in the
all fullness
as the lining.
Pin the pattern to your bust form and shape the

it
front or back so that

finished waist.
of every kind
looks just as
this
you wish
it
In making
pattern for the outside,
must be put
in the
paper pattern.
When
the pattern for the outside has been prepared, spread

all
the goods out on the table and lay
the pieces of the pattern
on, being careful to have the true waist line on the straight of the
goods crosswise.
Sometimes, however, small checks and plaids

In
this case the true waist line
are cut on the bias.
should be
on a true bias
of the goods.
In cutting the outside back the
form pieces are not used.

the waist opens in front,
is
if
The back
not, then
is it is
cut
all in
one piece,
if
cut in two pieces.
It
best to pin
all
the pieces of
the back pattern, which are
used to cut the

lining,
lining, together just as
you sewed them

lifting the
for the
and use
this for a pattern
for cutting the outside back.
Cut the goods from the wrong
side,
and before
If
pattern
mark
all
seams with
tailor's chalk.
two pieces are cut at
once, follow the lines
made on one
line before
side with pins.
Turn over
and follow the pins with the chalk.
Run
a thread in each piece
marking the true waist
taking up the pattern.
When

the outside
is all
8l
cut, pin the

line,
under arm seams together, beginning

baste.
with the true waist

der seams.
and
all
Do the same with

we have
if
the shoul-
These are
the seams
in the outside.
These seams should be just

changes in
fitting the lining
like the lining, as,
we made any
Trim
clipped
we should have made
the same in the
outside pattern.
We
can therefore stitch these seams.
the seams to about 3^ inch and overcast each side.
Press open
on the pressing cushion.
The under arm seams should be

line.
fill
above and below the waist
Now
on
it.
place the lining on the bust form and

it is
out with soft
paper wherever
larger than the form.
Place the outside
Pin the shoulder seams in the outside to the shoulder

of the lining,
seams
and the under arm seams at the armhole

of the lining.
to
the under
arm seam
it will
Pin securely
is
all
about the
armhole, being sure that the outside

is
smooth.
If the outside
cut kimono,
not fasten anywhere to the lining, except
at the bottom of the waist.

lining
Of course
all
waists fasten to the
where the
collar
is
sews on or at the bottom of a fancy yoke.
When
the outside
kimono
it
should be
left to
blouse a
little
under the arms to give freedom in raising the arms. Arrange fullness in the outside just as you wish
finished.
fitting.
it
to be
when
Pin
it,
leaving the basting until you have had another

it is
is
Put
all
trimming in place while

Pin
on the form.
A very
good way when a fancy waist

it
being
made
it
is
to cut
the pattern out of old cloth.
to the lining
on the bust form

looks just
and keep changing

as
it
little
here and there until
you wish
it
to
when
finished.
Use
little
this cloth as a
pattern
With a you can cut any waist you see.

to cut
from the goods.
practice
you
will get so
If
the dress
is
being
made
of
thin
wash goods,
lining.
is
of course it will not
have
a lining, unless
your
patron wishes one.
on a
no
Some people wish their summer gowns made For this purpose we use a thin lining lawn. When
it is
lining
used
nearly always best to use the shirt-waist
pattern instead of the tight lining pattern.

all
In this case arrange
tucks and fullness of every kind in your pattern.
Cut from

the goods.
Stitch
83
arrange fullness as
up the seams and place on the bust form to it should be when finished. These waists
of fullness that
must be made with a kind

such as shirring, tucking,
can be stitched
in,
etc.
fitting,
Our waist
while
to
is
ready for a second
but we
will lay it
away
we prepare come again.
the rest of the gown, before
we ask our patron
LESSON XVI
DRAFTING THE COAT OR LINING SLEEVE
Measures used
for draft given
20
inches
measure
to
of
bend Armhole measure Elbow measure
Elbow
g}4 inches
15
,
inches
inches
12K
8
Hand measure
inches
Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. 2. From point A measure on line A-B length of Arm to bend Mark this point C. of Elbow. At C square a line with line A-B 3 Mark this point D. 4. From C measure on this line 2 inches.
i.
5.
Place point
D
D
on the chart at on the chart at
D
D

A.
6.
Place point
B.
7.
From
measure J^ Elbow measure.

to right of E.
8.
9.
Measure ij^ inches Measure ij^
Measure J^ points H and I.

10.
Mark this point E. Mark this point G. inches to left of E. Mark this point F. inch to right of points F and G. Mark these
this line
n. At
12.
point
Measure from B on
Y2 of
Hand
measure.
Mark
this point J.
13.
14.
Measure J4 mcn to the right of J. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line B-K and measure 1 inch
from K.
15.
Mark
this point L.
Connect points
L and B
with a straight
line.
86
16.

Measure
to the left of
i}4 inches.
Mark
this point
M.
17.
18.
19.
Connect points Connect points

Place point
H and M with a straight line.

I
and
L with
a straight
line.
F on
;
the chart at
and hold chart so that

hold so that point
point J falls on line I-L draw curve. 20. Place point F on the chart at
F and
falls
on
line
H-M
draw
line
curve.
This forms the Elbow.

the line
21.
Measure the
it is
G-L and extend

with a straight
F-M
below
so that
22.
the same length as line G-L.
Mark
line.
this point
N.
Connect
N and B
A
23.
24.
At point

this line 14, the
From
measure on
0.
2
Armhole measure.
Mark
25.
this point
Measure
inches to the right of 0.
Mark
this
point
P.
26.
27.
Measure
Extend
inches to the
left of
0.
Mark
this point Q.
line
A-B above
A 2^
inches.
Mark
this point
R.
28.
29.
At
square a line with line R-B.
On
this line
measure from
R 1^ inches. Mark this point

Mark
Mark
this
S.
30.
At point
square a line with line A-P.
point
T.
31.
At point P square a
Place point
line
with
line
A-P.
this point
U.
32.
on the chart at
and hold
so that the
it
curve just touches line A-P.

point A.
33.
Draw
curve and continue
to
Place point
on the chart at S and draw curve through
A.
34.
Using
as a center
and Q-S as a
radius,
draw curve
through points S and U.

35.
Connect points Connect
36.
and
T and F with a straight G with a straight line.
line.
Coit Sleeve
o
Lin in
Sleeve.
88
In cutting pattern allow Y2 mcn seams everywhere except on inside seam. One inch or more should be allowed here until
after the sleeve has
been
fitted.
Gather top of sleeve from iYz
inches from
to
U.
LESSON XVII
THE ONE-PIECE TIGHT SLEEVE
To make
of
the one-piece tight sleeve, trace off on another piece
paper the upper piece of coat or lining sleeve.
Lay
piece
line
T-F
of the
under piece on
piece.
line
U-G
of the
upper
fits
and trace the under
This makes a sleeve which

it
exactly like the coat or lining sleeve, but
has no seam at the
back from the elbow up.
It is used for the lining of fancy sleeves
and often
the
for the outside.
Where one wishes

It
is
to put tucks
around
arm
it will
be found useful.
good
for the lining of sleeves

well.
made
It
of thin material
where the seam would not look

mousquetaire
sleeve.
makes a
fine lining for the
89
One fiece Ti$h
Sleeve
LESSON XVIII
THE FLOWING SLEEVE
The
flowing sleeve
is
made from
Trace
off
the coat or lining sleeve as
the one-piece sleeve was.

the upper sleeve.
xipper and trace
i.
on another piece of paper
Lay
line
T-F
of the under
on
line
U-G
of the
off
the under piece of the sleeve.
Measure up from point

Measure from point
of the
upper
4^ inches. Mark
this point F.
2.
N 4 inches.
E
this point I.
3.
Draw
a straight line through
Mark this point E. and F and extend
it
inches beyond F.
4.
Mark
Measure from
L on the under piece up 4 inches. Mark this
point G.
5.
Measure from B up
4^ inches. Mark this point H.
H.
Draw a line through G and H and extend 3 inches beyond Mark this point J. 7. Mark the point where these lines cross K. 8. Place point C on the chart at I and hold chart so that curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve. 9. Place point C on the chart at J and hold chart so that curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve.
6.
10.
Hold curve O-J on the chart
so that
it
touches lines
J-K
and I-K.
sleeve
Draw
curve.
In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.

is
The
flowing
sometimes used in dresses but more often in dressing
sacks and kimonos.
91
FJowin
It ewe
LESSON XIX
DRAFTING THE SLEEVE WITH THE TIGHT ELBOW AND LARGE TOP
Measures used
Arm Arm
in draft given
20
inches
Length Length to bend Armhole measure
of
Elbow
1
g}4 inches
15
inches
Elbow measure
2%
8
inches
inches
Hand measure
i.
2.
Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. From A measure length of Arm to bend
At C square a
line
of
Elbow.
Mark
this point C.
3.
with
line
A-B.
4.
5.
From C on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point D. From D measure 3^2 of Elbow measure. Mark this point
Measure Measure Measure Measure
to the left of
to the right
E.
6.
7.
8.
E i 1^ inches. Mark of E iJ4 inches. Mark

F
34 inch.
34 inch.
this point F.
this point
G.
to the right of
9.
to the right of
line at
Mark this point H. Mark this point I.

Hand
measure.
10.
Square a
with
line
A-B.
J^ of
n. On
12. 13. 14.
15.
this line
measure from B
Mark
this point J.
To the right of J measure 34 inch. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line B-K. Measure on this line from K 1 inch. Mark this point L.
Connect points
L and B
with a straight
line.
16.
17.
Measure on
this line
from
inch.
Mark
this point
M.
Connect points
I.
M and H with a straight

93
line, also
points
and
94
1 8.

Place point
D on the chart at point D and draw a curve to
B.
19. 20.
Place point
on the chart at
the chart at
and draw a curve
to A.
Place point
line
F on
F on
F and
hold so that point
J touches
21.
H-M
and draw curve.

the chart at
Place point
line
and hold
so that point
just touches
22.
it
I-L and draw curve.

line
Measure
Connect
G-L and extend
line
F-M
line.
below
M to make
the same length.

23.
N
on
and
Mark this point N. B with a straight

line
24.
25.
At A square aline with
A-B.
From
this line
measure Y2 the Armhole measure.

4 times the distance from
Mark
26.
this point
O.
Measure Measure
Extend
to the right of
to
G.
Mark
27.
this point P.
to the left of
inches.
Mark
this
point Q.
this
28.
line
A-B above
2Y2 inches.
Mark
point
R.
29.
At
square a line with line R-B.
30.
On
S.
this line
measure from
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
31.
Place point
G on the chart at S
and draw a curve through
A.
32.
At point

S.
Mark
the point
T where
33.
this line
touches the line from

line
At P square a
this line
with
line
A-P and mark

S.
line.
the point
where
34.
touches the line from
Connect points
F and T
with a straight
35. Place point
on the chart at
;
and hold the chart so

to A.
that the curve touches line

36.
37.
A-P draw curve and continue
Measure
inch to the right of U.
Mark
this point
V.
Place point
on the chart at
and draw curve towards
V.
Extend curve
38.
this point
to V.
line
Find a point on
R-V
half
way between S and V.
Mark
W.
Sleeve WiihTifhi
a
i\
Elbow
a.
r$
To
p.
96

39.
Square a
line at
W with
line
R-V and mark point X where
this line
touches A-P.
40.
With
X as a center and X-S as a radius, draw curve from

If the sleeve is desired larger or
S to V.
This completes the draft.
smaller change the distance from
to P.
The
draft given, gives
medium
sized sleeve.
LESSON
XX
Measures used
in draft given
20
inches
measure
to
of
bend Armhole measure Elbow measure Hand measure
Elbow
1
g}4 inches
15
inches
2j4 inches
8
inches
i.
Draw
line
A-B
length of
2.
Measure from
length of
Arm measure. Arm to bend

A-B.
2 inches,
of
Elbow.
Mark
this point C.
3.
At C square a
line
with
line
4.
On
this line
measure from C,
Mark
this point
D.
5.
From
measure Y2 the Elbow measure.

to the left of E, ij^ inches. to the right of E, to
Mark
this point
E.
6.
7.
Measure
Measure
8.
9.
Measure
Measure
to
Mark this point F. Mark this point G. 2^ the right of F, 34 inch. Mark this point H. the right of G, J4 mcn Mark this point I.
inches.
-
At B square a line with line A-B. n. On this line measure from B, Yi the Hand measure. Mark
10.
this point J.
12.
Measure
to the right of J, 34 inch.
Mark
this point
K.
13. 14.
15. 16. 17.
At
K square a line with line B-K.

this line
On
measure from K,
from L,
inch.
line.
Mark
this point L.
Connect
L and B
with a straight
1
Measure on
this line
inch.
Mark
this point
M.
Connect points
I.
M and H with a straight

97
line, also
points
L and
98
1 8.

Place point
on the chart at
and draw a curve to
point B.
19.
Place point
D on the chart
F
at
D and draw a curve to point

F and
hold chart so that
A.
20.
Place point
on the chart at
point J touches line H-M. Draw curve. 21. Place point F on the chart at G and hold chart so that
point J touches line I-L.

22.
it
Draw
curve.
line
Measure
Connect
line
G-L and extend
F-M
below
M,
to
make
the length of G-L.

23. 24.
N
on
and
Mark this point N. B with a straight line.

measure
3^2
At
25.
From
this line
the
Armhole measure.
Mark
26.
this point 0.
Measure Measure
Extend
to the right of
twice the distance from
to
G.
Mark
27.
28.
this point P.
to the left of 0, 2 inches.

line
A-B above A, 2Y2
inches.
Mark this point Q. Mark this point
R.
29.
At
R square
this line
a line with line R-B.
30.
On
S.
measure from R, ij^ inches.

the chart at S and
;
Mark
this
point
31.
Place point
G on
draw curve through
A.
32.
At point
Mark
the point
where
33.

line
from
S.
At P square a
Connect points
with
line
A-P and mark

S.
line.
the point
where
34.
from
F and T
with a straight
35. Place point
and hold chart so

it
that the curve touches line A-P.

to A.
36. 37.
Draw
curve and continue
Measure
inch to the right of U.
Mark
this
point V.
Draw
a straight line
from
to a point half
way between
and V.
Le$
OVWuU
on Sieeve.
ioo

38.
and G.
Mark
this
point
39.
W.
Place point
C on
the chart at G, and hold chart so that
point
falls
on
line
from G.
Draw
curve.
40. Place point
on the chart at
and
let
curve
fall
on
W.
Draw
curve through
W and V.
line
41. Find a point on a
R-V
half
way between
S and V.
Mark
this
X.
line at
42. Square a
X with line R-V, and mark point Y where

S-Y
as a radius
this line touches line
A-P.
43.
With
Y as a
center and
draw curve from
S to V.
Note
a
To
make the
sleeve larger or smaller, change the

to P.
distance from
to G,
and from
The
draft given
makes
medium
sized sleeve.
LESSON XXI
HOW
Trace
sleeve.
off
TO CUT, MAKE, AND FINISH THE SLEEVE
on another piece
of
paper the upper portion of the

line D-G, which marks the
Be sure to trace on the

out, allowing
ELBOW.
Cut
seams everywhere except at the hand.

at the top
One-
half inch
seam should be allowed

least
i
and outside seam.
Allow at
inch or more on the inside seam until after the

It
is
sleeve has been fitted.
at this
seam that the sleeve should be

Sometimes you will find people
nearly always have to be let
changed
if it
needs any changing.
with a very fully developed muscle between the shoulder and

elbow.
If this is so the sleeve will
out at this point.

let it
Therefore leave seam enough to be able to
out
if
needed.
Now trace off the under portion of the sleeve,

Be sure to trace on
lining
leaving the same sized seams.
line D-F.
Al-
Now we are
ready to cut the sleeve out of the lining goods.

sleeve
of the
ways place the

on the straight
is
on the
with the
lines
F-T and G-U
goods lengthwise.
Your
lining, of course,
double
fold, so
that you will cut both sleeves at the same time.
Be sure to trace on
After
all
line
D-F before you
lift the pattern.
seams have been traced pick up the pattern.
Make
notch at point
U or V,
whichever sleeve draft
is
being used, and

first.
one about ij^ inches from A.
Pin the back seam together

line of the
Begin by pinning the elbow

of the under
upper to the elbow
line
and then pin the

on each
entire seam, being very careful
to follow the tracing
piece.
After this seam
is
basted,
pin the elbow lines of the outside seam together and baste in
the same
way
as
you did the
inside seam.
Gather the top

fitted.
from one notch to the other.
The
sleeve
is
ready to be
is fitted,
This should be done at the time the waist lining
while
102

is
the waist lining
on your patron.
Pull
up the gathers at the
top and pin the sleeve to the armhole under the arm.
Have your
If it
patron bend her arm and bring her arm forward at the shoulder
to be sure the sleeve does not
draw at the elbow.

is
should
draw a
little,
see
if
the elbow
it
located just right and that
you have not pinned

back seam.
the hand
patron,
in too far to the waist in the back, at the

is
After the sleeve
thoroughly fitted turn
it
up
at
to just the right length.
Before removing from your
mark where
the front seam comes, on the waist.
Re-
move
If
the waist and sleeve from your patron and
you are ready
to proceed with the outside of the sleeve.
your sleeve
is
to be a plain one with the
trimming placed on
the outside, the outside goods will be cut just like the lining.
If,
however, the outside
is
to be
very
different, a pattern
must be
always
cut for the outside.

like the
There are sleeve forms which

If
may be bought,
it
bust forms.
one
is
going to work for others
pays
to
have one
of these forms.
is
The
best
way
to learn to cut
the fancy outside
to take
an old piece
of cloth.
Cut what you

until
make what you want and keep changing it get it just right. With a little practice, you can make you want the first time. Most sleeves conform quite
think will
the lining, so you will not have
you
just
what
closely to
much
trouble.
If there are to
it is
be tucks in the sleeve they must be put in the goods before

cut out.
To make
is fulled
the Mousquetaire sleeve.

lining
This
is
the sleeve which
on the
from the shoulder to the hand.
For
this
sleeve use the tight lining sleeve.
Cut out the

and a
is
lining
and sew
up the elbow seam.

sleeve.
Gather the goods on to the lining at the

half the length of the
inside seam, allowing about once
Be
sure that the outside
the same size as the lining

fullness to the
crosswise.
lining all
it
Sew up
the inside
seam and tack the

it
along the outside seam, or where
would
be, so that
cannot drop down out of place.
Be
careful to
make
the
fastenings so that they do not show.
When
large sleeves are
being worn, a very pretty sleeve
is
made by putting
small length-
CoaT
51eeve
or
LiVung Sleeve
Q'MuTTg" Leo ?
.sleeve
Flowing Sleeve
104
wise tucks from the hand to the elbow, allowing the sleeve to
puff from the elbow to the shoulder.
In cutting this sleeve the

all
tucks must be placed in the goods and

tucks must be
lining.
left in
the fullness left
by the
the sleeve.
For
this sleeve use the one-piece
After sewing up the outside seam to the elbow, fasten
the tucks in place on the lining.
Baste the goods on the
lining.
Cut out the
sleeve
and baste up.
Gather the outside at the top

lining
in to the size of the lining,
and then gather both the
and
outside in to the size of the armhole.
A little of
the fullness left
by the tucks may be shoved off at the sides but not enough to make it look drawn at the top of the tucks. A bias band or a fancy shaped cuff may be placed at the hand or it may be simply
faced with a bias facing.
If
you wish a
and take
sleeve to be
sewed
in at
the armhole without gathers, take the sleeve off at the highest
part of the top about

to
is
inch,
it
in
enough at point
make
it
the exact size of the armhole.
The
one-piece sleeve
the best one to use for this sleeve.
After the sleeve
is all
stitched
and pressed, lay
it
away with
All that
the waist until the skirt and drop skirt are prepared.
is left
to
do to the sleeve
if
is
to face
is
it
about the hand with a

if
bias facing, of silk

itself.
the goods
very heavy;
not, of the goods
LESSON XXII
DRAFTING THE CIRCULAR SKIRT
Measures used
Waist measure Hip measure
for draft given
25
inches
inches
42
Front length of skirt

Side length of skirt
40
inches
inches inches
Back length
of skirt
40^ 41^
Take a
sheet of paper having a square corner

If
and one straight

is
edge large enough for the draft.

at hand, paste several together.
1.
a piece large enough
not
Use the corner

and draw a
of the paper for a center,

circle.
and a radius of
10 inches,
2.
Point A.
With the same

circle.
center
and a radius
of 15 inches,
draw an-
other
3.
Point C.
circle,
Measure from A on Measure from C on

Find a point on
this point E.
Y the Waist measure.

Y2 the Hip measure.
Mark
this
point B.
4.
circle,
Mark
this
point D.
5.
circle
A-B
half
way between
and B.
Mark
6.
Measure down
% of
an inch from B.
Mark
this point
F.
7.
Place point J on the chart at E, and with curve J-F draw
curve towards F.
8.
Continue curve to F.
circle
Find a point on
this point
C-D
half
way between C and D.
Mark
9.
G.
Measure down from
^
105
of
an inch.
Mark
this point
H.
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10.
107
Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H.
1 1
Measure from
I.
A on circle A-F 3^ of Waist measure. Mark

circle
this point
12.
Measure from C on
C-H,
3^>
of
Hip measure. Mark
this point J.
a straight line through I and J and continue down the length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center
13.
Draw
back
14.
line.
Measure from
Point K.
A down
the edge of the paper, which
is
the front center line of the skirt, the Front length measure of
the skirt.
15.
Measure down from Measure from
I the
Back length
of skirt.
Point L.
16.
17.
the Side length of skirt.
Point
M.
ing
The curve for the bottom of the skirt is found by measurdown every few inches the length measures of the skirt.
It
This skirt draft should never be used for narrow goods.

should always be cut from very heavy goods.
In cutting pattern allow seams

waist
line.
down
the back and at the
LESSON XXIII
DRAFTING THE THREE-GORED CIRCULAR SKIRT
Measures used
Waist measure
in draft given
25
inches inches
Hip measure
Side Length measure
,
42
40
inches
inches
inches
Back Length measure
40^ 41K
Take a
1.
sheet
of
paper having a square corner

to hold the draft.
and one
straight edge large
enough
of the
circle.
Use the corner
paper for a center and with a radius

Point A.
15 inches
of 10 inches
2.
draw a
With the same center and a radius of

Point C.
draw another
circle.
3.
Measure from
A on circle,
C
on
circle,
J^ of Waist measure. Y2 of Hip measure.

half
Mark
this
point B.
4.
Measure from
Mark
this
point D.
5.
Find a point on
this point
circle
A-B
way between A and
B.
Mark
6.
E.
Measure down
% of an inch from B.
circle
Mark
this point F.
7. Place point J on the chart at E and with curve J-F draw curve towards F. Continue curve to F.
8.
Find a point on
this point
C-D
half
way between C and
and
mark
9.
G.
Measure down from
% of
an inch.
Mark
this
point
H.
Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H.
10.
109
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ii.
in
Measure from
this point I.
on
circle
A-F, J^ of Waist measure.

of
Mark
12.
Measure from C on
circle
C-H, J^
I- J
Hip measure. Mark
this point J.
13.
Draw
a straight line through
and continue down the

line is the center
length of the
line.
Back
skirt
measure.
This
back
14.
Measure from
A down
the edge of the paper, which
is
the front center line of the skirt, the Front skirt length.
Point
K.
15.
Measure down from
I the
back length
of skirt.
Point
L.
On circle A-F measure 1 inch to the left of point E. Mark this point M. Mark 17. On circle C-H measure 1 inch to the left of G.
16.
this point
18.
N.
a line through
Draw
M
and
and
and continue down the

on the bottom curve
Q.
length of Side skirt measure.

19.
Mark
this point O.
Measure
Connect
to the right
left of
of skirt, 9 inches.
20. 21.
Mark
is
these points
P and
N and P,
and
N and Q with straight lines.

M-Q-I-L
is
A-K-M-P
the front gore.
the back gore.
In cutting out the pattern allow seams everywhere.
Note
sides.
The three-gored circular

skirt,
less fullness,
skirt draft is the

is
same
as the
full circular
except that a half -yard
taken out at the

side keeps
This gives
and the seam down the
the skirt from sagging.
LESSON XXIV
DRAFTING THE SEVEN-GORED SKIRT
Measures used
Waist measure Elip measure
in this draft
25
42
skirt
Front length of
40
Side length of skirt
Back length of skirt Measure about bottom
40^ 41^
3
inches
inches
yards
Take a
piece of paper having one square corner
and a straight
edge, large
1.
enough
to hold the draft.
2.
A represents the corner of the paper. With A as a center and a radius of 10

With
inches,
draw a
circle
B-D, beginning at the edge

3.
of the paper, A-P. of 15 inches,
as a center
and a radius
draw another
circle,
4.
C-E.
measure.
From C on circle C-E, measure 1-7 of one half the Hip Mark this point F. 5. From point C on circle C-E measure ij^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point G. 6. Measure from C to F and C to G. Subtract this amount
for the distance
I.
from Y2 the Hip measure. 7. Use what is left of the Hip measure
from
to
8.
H and C to I, making C to H Y% inch less than C to

From B on
this point
circle
B-D measure
inch less than from
to F.
Mark
9.
K.
to
K.
10.
From B on circle B-D measure Mark this point L.

Measure from B
to
% inch more than from B

L and
subtract this
and
to
sum
from Y2 the Waist measure.
"3
114
11

Use what
is left
of the
Waist measure
for the distance from

less
to
12.
M and B to N, making B to M
Place point
j^ inch
than
to
N.
C on
the chart at point
F and draw
curve
through K.
13.
Place point
D
D
on the chart at on the chart at on the chart at
L.
14.
Place point
H and draw curve through

I
M.
15.
Place point
N.
16.
To form
the inverted plait

circle
Measure on a
Mark
line
straight line
this point J.
from G, touching the

17.
C-E, 4 inches.
From L measure on a straight B-D, 33^2 inches. Mark this point 0.

18.
19.
touching the circle
of an inch. Mark this point 00. Measure up from 0, Place point F on the chart at 00 and draw curve through
L.
20.
21.
Connect
00
and J with a straight
line.
To form
the bottom of the gores
Measure
radius,
down from
B on
22.
the edge of the paper the Front length of skirt.
Mark
circle,
this point P.
With
as a center
and A-P as a
draw a
beginning at the edge of the paper.

23.
Circle P-V.
From P on circle P-V measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point Q. 24. Decide how wide you wish your skirt about the bottom. This will be determined by the style being worn.
25.
Subtract from 3^ the bottom measure the distance from
P toQ.
26.
Divide what
is left
of the
bottom measure
measure
into three equal
parts. gores.
27.
Use one
of these parts as a
for the three other
Make
the distance from
to
inches less than this
1-3 measure.
28.
Now
find out
how much
of the
J^ bottom measure you
Seveu Qc-re3 Skirt
<7<?e
c} Fper>
Ii6
have used, by measuring from
to
Q and
-
from
P to R.
Use
this
Subtract
this sum from Y2 the bottom measure. 29. Divide what is left into two equal parts.
measure
to T.
for the
30.
two
side gores,
making P
to S 2 inches less than
Measure from point R, 10

Connect with straight
I
inches, point U, for the
bottom
and R,
of inverted plait.
31.
lines
points
F and
Q,
H and S,
32.
To find
and T, J and U. the true bottom curve

line,
of each gore,
measure down
from waist curve, on each

33.
the skirt lengths.
34.
The front The back

L-R-O-U.
gore gore
is is
represented
represented
by B-P-K-Q.
by B-P-L-R, with inverted
plait
35.
Front Side Gore
is
represented by B-P-M-S. represented
36.
37.
Back Side Gore
is
by B-P-N-T.
To
lay the inverted plait, place line
L-R
over on line O-U.
In putting the skirt together the straight side of each gore
B-P
will
come against the
bias side of the gore next to
it.
In cutting the pattern allow seams everywhere.
LESSON XXV
DRAFTING THE NINE -GORED SKIRT
Measures used
Waist measure
for draft given
25
inches
inches
Hip measure
Side Length measure
42
40
inches
40^
3
inches
Back Length measure Measure about bottom
4i> inches
yards
Take a
side.
1.
piece of paper having a square corner
and one straight
represents the corner.
2.
With
B-D.
A A
as a center
and a radius
of 10 inches,
draw a
circle,
circle, 3.
With
as a center
and 15 inches as a
radius,
draw a
C-E.
4.
From C on
circle
C-E measure
1-9 of half the
Hip measure.
Mark
this point F.
inch less than from C to 5. From B on circle B-D measure F. Mark this point I. 6. Measure down from B the skirt length measure. Mark this point M. 7. From M, measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point N.
8.
Connect
and F, and F and
with straight
lines.
This
forms the front gore.

9.
From Yi
the
Hip measure subtract the distance from C

is left
to
F.
10.
Divide what
into 4 equal parts.

117
This gives the
MiNe Core
<3
S Jrjv
f.
1 19
Hip measure
to G.
for
each of the other gores, or the distance from
C
B
n. Subtract from J^ the Waist measure

to
I.
the distance from
12.
Divide what
is left
into 4 equal parts.
This gives the
measure
for the waist line of all the other gores, or distance
from
to J.
13.
Subtract from Y2 the bottom measure the distance from
M toN.
14.
Divide what
for the
is left
into 4 equal parts.
This gives the
measure
to 0.
15.
bottom
of all the gores, or the distance
from
After cutting the front gore, B-M-I-N, cut 6 gores like
the gore represented

16.
17.
by B-M-J-O.
To make
the back gores
Add the inverted

line
line
plait.
Measure from
on a straight H.
touching curve C-H,
3 3/2 inches.
18.
Mark
this point
3^
Measure from J on a straight inches. Mark this point K. Measure on a straight

line
touching curve C-E,
19.
from 0, 10 inches.
Mark
this
point P.
Measure up from K, ^2 inch. Mark this point L. point F on the chart at L, and draw curve through J.
20.
Place
21
22.
Connect
L and H, and
You
H and P with straight lines.

will
B-M-L-P
represents the back gore with inverted plait.
Cut two
goes.
of these gores.
Notch each gore
as
it is
have 9 gores in all. cut out, to show just where each one
side
Always put the straight
B-M
against the bias side
of the next gore. Get the true bottom curve as you did the seven-
gored
skirt.
To
lay inverted plait, place line J-0 on line L-P.
LESSON XXVI
DRAFTING THE FIFTEEN-GORED SKIRT
Measures used
for draft given
25
Waist measure Hip measure Front Length measure Side Length measure Back Length measure
inches
42
inches
inches 40 4o> inches
41^
3
inches
Measure about bottom
yards
Take a
edge.
1. 2.
and one straight
represents the corner.
With
A as a center and a
radius of 10 inches,
draw a
circle,
beginning at the straight edge of the paper (B-C).

3.
With the same

circle
center and a radius of 15 inches,
draw
another
4.
(D-E).
From
on
circle
D-E measure
B-C measure
1-15 of the
Hip measure.
Mark
5.
this point F.
From B on
circle
1-15 of the
Waist measure.
the Front
Mark
6.
this point G.
skirt
7.
From B on the edge of the paper measure down length. Mark this point H. From H measure 2 inches more than from D to
Place point
F.
Mark
this point I.
8. 9.
C on
the chart at
I
F and draw
line.
curve through G.
Connect
F and
with a straight
This forms the
front gore.
10.
Subtract from J^ the Hip measure, the distance from
to F.
Fifteen Gor>ei S'kivt.

11.
"3
Divide what
is left
into 7 equal parts.

circle
12.
Measure from
Subtract from
on
D-E
one of these parts.
Mark
this point J.
13.
the-
Waist measure the distance from
to G.
14.
15.
Divide what
is left
into 7 equal parts.

circle
Measure from B on
K.
Place point
B-C one
of these parts.
Mark
this point
16.
on the chart at J and draw curve through

This finishes the
K.
17.
side gore.
18.
Connect J and L with a straight line. Twelve of these should be cut.

the back gore
To form
Add to the side gore the inverted

K
touching the curve,
plait. 19.
Measure on a
straight line from
2Y2 inches.
20.
21.
Mark
this point
M.
Measure up from
M Y% inch.
inches.
Mark
this point
N.
Measure from J on a straight
line
touching curve, 3
inches.
22. 23.
Mark
Connect
this point 0.
Measure from L, 8
Mark
this point P.
line.
N-0 and P
with a straight
The entire back gore is represented by B-H-N-P. The side gores by B-H-K-L. The front gore by B-H-G-I. To lay the inverted plait, lay line L-K over on line N-P.
all
seams.
LESSON XXVII
THE FULL PLAITED SKIRT, MADE FROM THE FIFTEEN-GORED DRAFT
For this make your

1.
skirt
make
the bottom measure 2^2 yards,
when you
draft.
off
Trace
on another piece
1
of
paper the front gore.
2.
Measure out
Measure out
inch from G.
3.
Measure out ij^ inches from F.
4.
5.
2^
inches from
I.
Connect these two points with straight

This amount added to the gore
plait under, turning
is
lines,
and cut on
this line.
6.
7.
for the plait.
Turn the
Trace
off
on
line G-F-I.
the side gore.

1
8.
9.
Measure out from B,
inch.
Measure out from D, ij^
inches.
inches.
lines.
10.
Measure out from H,
2^
11.
Connect these points with straight

is
This amount added

front gore.
12. 13.
for a lap to
run under the plait of the
Measure out from K,

Measure out from
inch.
J, ij^t inches.
14.
Measure out from L,
2^
inches.
This forms the plait to be turned under on the side gore.

This forms the entire skirt except the two back gores.
15.
To form
the back gores
Trace
inch.
off
the back gore, hav-
ing added the inverted plait.

16. 17. 18.
19.
Measure out from B,
Measure out from D, ij^
inches.
Measure out from H, 2Y2 inches. Connect these points with straight
125
lines.
This forms
Full PliiUJ
Skirt
Fl}
ec>\ (Pove.

the lap to run under the plait of the gore next to the back.
127
Lay
the inverted plait by placing line K-J-L over on N-O-P.
Cut the same number

plain fifteen-gored skirt.
of gores of each
kind as directed in the
In cutting from the goods, the

tration
rai'sed
line
marked B-H on the
illusis
in,
must be marked with a thread before the pattern

from the goods.
After each plait has been turned
to the next gore.
baste
it fiat
Have
the edge of the plait follow

of each plait
the line
B-H
each time.
Stitch
on the edge
from
the waist
down about
10 inches.
Turn the
skirt
wrong
side out
and
stitch the
raw edge
of the plaits to the
raw edge
of the laps
in a flat
which hold the
seam about ^2 mc ^ wide. Before removing the bastings plaits in place, give each plait a dead press by
it
placing a wet cloth on
and pressing
until dry.
Use a rather
After
it
heavy
iron.
The
skirt should
be placed on a band at the waist
and hung about the bottom, before removing the bastings.

the skirt
is
is
hung even about the bottom, run a thread where

bastings.
to turn
stitch
up and then remove the

it in.
Turn up the hem

hem.
and
Press the
hem and
then press the plaits back
in where they were pressed out in pressing the
LESSON XXVIII
TO
CUT,
MAKE AND
will
FINISH THE DROP SKIRT AND OUTSIDE SKIRT

skirt.
First we
for the
take up the drop
The amount
skirt
of material
drop
skirt
must depend on the
style of the outside skirt.
If the skirts
worn are very scant the drop

If
must be made
full ruffle
to
correspond.
plaiting.
very
full, it
must be made with a

skirt.
or
Five and one half yards of cotton lining or 10 yards
of taffeta will
make a
full
drop
You have
be scant or
of course decided
whether your outside

for granted that
skirt is to
full
and we take
it
you have drafted
your pattern.
You
should do
all
the drafting before you begin the gown,
waist, sleeve
and
skirt.
Use the draft you have made

Of course a seam
will
is
for the skirt.
Trace
off
each
gore on another piece of paper and allow seams everywhere.
not be allowed
drafted.
down
the front of the draft,
as only Y2 the front

line
and
% inch on
all
sides of the gores.

is
Allow J^ inch seam at the waist The pattern should be

to be
made
just the length the skirt

if
when
If
finished.
In using
slant
the seven-gored skirt,

the lines from the hips
tight,
is
the skirts
worn are a
little full,
down out a
a
little.
they are worn very

as
it
draw the
lines just
little slanting.
Notch each gore
cut from the paper, beginning with the front, which has one
notch.
The
side of the second gore
which comes next to the
front has one notch,
and the other
side of this gore
two notches.
So on until
all
the gores are notched.

pin.
Turn each gore up 10 inches from the bottom and

this for
Use
a pattern for the drop

It will be double fold,
skirt.
if
Spread the lining out on
the table.
front gore
cotton.
Lay
the middle of the
on the lengthwise
fold of the goods

129
and arrange the
130
other gores to the best advantage to save cloth.

plain, the gores
may
be turned either
allowing a good seam at the

or plaiting to
pattern.
it.
The goods being way up or down. Cut out, bottom, as we are to sew our ruffle
to those in the
Notch each gore to correspond Baste all the seams and stitch.
From
the other end of the goods, cut enough strips
nj^ inches
Sew
wide, on a true bias, to make,
when sewed
together end to end,
once and a half the width of the skirt around the bottom.
the seams on. the machine.
Turn and baste a hem ij^
inches
wide along one
side.
from the edge.
Gather along the other side about J^ mcn Before gathering, divide into quarters and gather
Divide the bottom of the
each quarter on a separate thread.

skirt into four parts,
making
parts.
the two front parts two inches

ruffle
more than the back

fuller in the
This will bring the
little
back than
in front.
Sew
side.
the ruffle to the skirt,
having the seam come on the wrong

skirt as
Have
the seam on the
wide again as that on the
ruffle.
After the skirt has been
tried on, turn the
wide part of the seam over the narrow part,

This covers
all
turning
in,
is
and
stitch.
the raw edge where
the ruffle
put on.
if
narrow
ruffle
may
be put on the wide

is
one at the bottom

place of the
ruffle,
one wishes.
If
a plaiting
preferred in
enough
strips should
be cut on the straight
of the goods, the
same width
as those for the ruffle, to
make
times the width of the skirt.
Sew a
straight
skirt,
band
of the
goods about ij^ inches wide to the

2
top of the
having the band about
inches longer than the
waist measure.
Pin the middle of the band to the middle of
the front of the skirt, having the band on the right side of the
skirt.
Turn
in
both ends of the band
inch and pin along the

is
top of the
skirt.
than the band.
You will What is

band.
find that the skirt

left of
quite a bit longer
the skirt
may
be gathered
in,
or laid in a large plait, having the edge of the plait

to the
come just
end
of the
The back seam

from the top.
of the skirt should
be
left
open about 12 inches

each side
This opening should be
hemmed on

with a narrow hem.
that there
is
131
silk
drop skirt
is
cut the same except
no
fold to cut the front gore on.
Fold the goods
together to cut the front, and proceed as in the cotton skirt.
Turn the bottom of the pattern down The Outside Skirt turned it up to use it for the drop skirt. This again, where you
leaves the pattern just the length the finished skirt
will
if
is
to be.
We
make
a perfectly plain skirt.
Spread the goods on the
table,
possible
wrong
side up.
is
Never cut the front gore

in the goods,
it is
if it is
of the outside
skirt
on the fold that
double-fold goods.
This used always to be done, but
no longer considered proper.
Make
a fresh fold just far enough from the edge of the goods
After this gore
is
to cut the gore.
cut, lay all others on, to the
best advantage possible.
Never
lay the front side of the gores
exactly on the straight of the goods lengthwise.
Always lay
the top of the gore back at least ij^ inches.
Always allow
If
about 4 inches at the bottom of each gore for hem.

never best to cut a skirt the exact length
you are
short of goods only allow two inches, and then the skirt
faced.
for
it
may be
to be,
It is
it is
always takes up in making.

all
Before raising the pattern
from the goods, turn back
seams on the pattern and mark on

Also
the goods with tailor's chalk.
the pattern comes on each gore.
mark where the bottom Be sure to notch each gore
of
to
correspond with the pattern.

ones, one at a time,
Pin the front gore to the second

Pin every few inches and be
and
baste.
careful not to stretch either side.
When
all
the seams have been
basted in this way, turn the skirt up about the bottom, on the
wrong
rubs
side,
on the
line
you made with the
chalk.
The chalk
off easily so it is
best to trace on the line with thread before
handling the
so that the
skirt.
Pin every few inches and high enough up

not drop down.
it
hem
will
Run
a strong thread along

it is
the waist line to keep
from stretching when
tried on.
We are ready now for the first fitting. When the patron comes,
if
the waist and skirt are to be separate, put the skirt on

skirt.
first,
over the drop

perfect
fit
Examine very
carefully to see
if
it is
about the hips and waist and notice whether the seams
132
all
look straight.
Do not try to hang the skirt around the bottom

While the
if
until the
seams are stitched and pressed.
skirt is
is
on
be
the patron lay the inverted plait in the back,

one.
there
to
Nowadays
there are so
many
different styles of skirts,
that you will have to use your ingenuity.

side,
Some open on
to
the
some at the
All
side of the
is
back and some at the side of
the front.
skirt.
we can do
is
to tell
you how
fitted,
make
the plain
After the skirt
thoroughly
it
put on the waist.

finished.
Be sure the outside looks just as any changes necessary. Pin the
Cut a
to be
collar just as
should
when
it
Make
sleeve into the armhole, taking
care that the inside seam comes just where
should to hang right.
you were taught
to cut the
neck band for

is
the shirt waist, only wider, of whatever material the collar
and
inch wider than
when
finished.
Pin
it
in place
on
the
the patron, shape the top and get the exact length.
Remove
is all
gown
carefully so as not to lose
any pins, and

the
it is
ready to
finish.
There should be one more

except the
fitting, after
gown
this
finished
will
hem
if
in the bottom.
If
you do
your work
never have to be brought back for changes.

skirt,
Finish
up the drop
which,
it
needs no changes,
is
all
finished but sewing
Turn down the edge of the band, which is not basted, and baste on the wrong side just opposite the first basting. Stitch on the right side. This will make a band about
on the band.
Y2 inch wide at the top of the skirt. Sew a good large hook and This finishes the eye on the band and press the entire skirt.
drop
be.
skirt.
Finish
up the waist according

is
to the style
it is
to
If
a separate waist
worn
outside the skirt,
the bottom of
the waist should be finished with a bias band about
i^
inches
wide.
side
Stitch the
band on the
it
right side,
turn up on the wrong
and hem.
Stitch
the
first
time just a seam below the ends

finished the bones will
of the bones, so that

clear to the
when
it is
come
bottom
all
of the waist.
Finish
all
other parts neatly
and fasten
sleeves
trimmings where they should be.
Baste in the
and
to
enough
Bind the armholes with a bias band wide cover the seam. Finish the sleeves at the bottom
stitch.

with a
loops,
133
hem
or facing.
Place No.
hooks and Peet or thread
whichever seem best, wherever necessary.

is all
After the waist

all
finished
we must
finish the skirt.
Stitch
is
seams.
If the skirt
it
has been fastened to the waist, this
hard to do, but

side out.
can be accomplished.
Turn the
skirt
wrong
Cut a
seams.
stitch at the waist line near the

it
seam and fasten

Press
with a pin so that

Stitch
all
cannot ravel but so you can get at the seam.

off to
Trim
is
about ^2 inch, and overcast.
open.
band on
waist
we must put a we did on the drop skirt. A band may be bought ready made or one may be made as
If
the skirt
separate from the waist
at the waist line, just as
we did for the drop skirt. It is to buy the ready made band.
the placket should be finished.
best
if
you are sewing
for others
Before putting on this band,
Put a facing about ij^ inches
wide down the

skirt,
left side of
the placket,
of the
made
of
goods
like the
and perfectly straight

side,
goods lengthwise.
Stitch
on the right
turn on the wrong side and hem.
To
the other
side of the placket,
sew a straight piece
of the goods,
4 inches
wide, which has been folded together lengthwise.
Sew one edge

on the
to the unfinished side of the placket, having the piece
right side of the skirt.

stitching just
Turn
in the other edge, baste along the
made and
stitch again
on the right
2
side.
Be sure
to catch the last basting.
This will form a flap
inches wide to
run under the
hem on
the other side of the placket.
You
laid
your inverted
plait so that the edge of the plait
came
just to
the edge of the placket.
Stitch each plait in place
on the machine
x inch back from the edge. Place hooks on the hem side about /i and Peet eyes on the flap. Now sew the band to the top of
the skirt, and
it is
finished, all
but the
hem
in the bottom.
is
If
the skirt
is
fastened to the waist the placket
finished in the
same way.
The
one
is
skirt
we have given
If
is
a perfectly plain skirt.
If a
fancy
it is
to
be made, the pattern must be prepared before
cut from the goods.
you wish a
skirt
with a circular flounce,
pin
all
the gores together and cut a piece from the bottom of
134
the skirt just the width you wish your flounce. Slash this piece up from the bottom every few inches. Spread each cut apart a little and paste a piece of paper underneath, to hold them apart.
These slashes must extend almost

all
to the top of the piece.
When
cir-
these slashes, have been spread apart
you
will
have your
cular flounce.
skirt,
Use the top

little
of the pattern for the pattern of the
allowing a
it is
on the bottom to run under the flounce Allow a hem on the bottom
top.
of the
it flat
until
properly hung.
flounce and a
seam at the
Stitch
Turn
in the top
and lay
on the
If
skirt.
on
the outside as near the edge as possible.

in the skirt, pin the
you wish a fancy-shaped yoke
seams of
the skirt together at the hips and waist line and cut a yoke any
shape you wish.

skirt by.
Use the lower part
of the pattern to cut the
Turn
in the lower edge of the yoke.
Place the skirt

If a skirt
underneath and stitch as near the edge as possible.

is desired
with set-in plaits half

far
way up on some
to come.
of the gores,
decide
off
how
up you wish them
Cut these gores

Allow a
where you wish the top
of the plaits to
come.
hem
on
these gores about 2 inches wide.
Lay
the plaits in a piece
of paper,
and pin them

the
to the gore just
where you want them.

far
The
top of the plaits
must extend up under the hem

stitched in.
enough
to catch
when
was
hem is
Now
cut the gore the same
shape
it
before.
This gives you an exact pattern for the

in.
gore with the plaits set

skirt,
Whenever any
plaits are
put in a
is
always keep them securely basted in until the skirt
finished.
You
will
soon learn to cut any kind of a skirt you wish.

the plain foundation and
Al-
ways begin with

from that.
work out your pattern
LESSON XXIX
WOMEN'S MUSLIN UNDERWEAR
PETTICOATS
For
the petticoat to be placed on a band, use the draft given
for the seven-gored skirt.
Pin the front gore to the second, and

This will
cut together as one gore.
make
a wide front gore.
The dart
at the top where the front gore rounds in to the waist

in.
should be put
Cut the back
side gore just as
it is.
Cut the
back gore without the inverted
plait.
Add
3 inches to the back

will straighten the
seam
at the top but not at the bottom.
This
back seam and leave a few gathers at the waist

the skirt a
little less
in the back.
Make
around the bottom than you would make an

full dress skirts are
outside skirt.
skirt will
If
very
being worn, a 3 -yard
be found a good width for a petticoat.

skirts being
The width must

skirt as
depend on the dress

shorter than
ruffle of
it is
worn.
of
Cut the
much
to be as the
width
embroidery edge, lace or

This should
the goods
you wish
to
put on the bottom.
be about 3 inches.
full,
Sew
this ruffle
(which should not be very

skirt)
less
than once and a half the width of the
to the
bottom
of the skirt,
having the seam on the inside.
Before
stitching the ruffle on, place a straight
band
2^
inches wide so
that the edge comes just even with the edge of the ruffle where
it is
to be stitched on.
Turn
this
band up on the
skirt,
having
turned in the raw edge, and stitch in place.
This covers the
seam and forms the hem
of the skirt.
12
Make
a flounce from 8 to
inches wide of embroidery, or
of muslin with
embroidery or lace sewed on the edge.
This
skirt.
flounce should measure once
and a
half the
width of the
Put the flounce on the bottom

of the flounce
ruffle
of the skirt, so that the
lower edge
comes just even with the lower edge

of the skirt.
135
of the
narrow
which forms the bottom
Place a narrow
136
bias
in,

band about 3-8
of
an inch wide, after both edges are turned

is
over the seam where the flounce

of this
sewed to the
skirt.
Stitch
on both edges
the top.
band very near the edge.

of the skirt
Leave the back seam
open
for
about 12 inches from
Hem
the right side of this opening with a
hem Y%
inch
wide and the

over on the
left side
with a narrow hem.
Lap
the right side

stitch across
left
at the
bottom
it
of the opening
and
on the machine so that
cannot tear down.
Now
gather the
straight
the skirt from the back side seam to the opening.
Take a
piece of muslin 2 inches wide, lengthwise of the goods,
and
1
inches longer than the waist measure.
Turn
in each
end
inch
and turn
in the
raw
edges.
Fold together lengthwise so that

to the top of the skirt,
the edges are just even.
Sew
having one
edge of the
the
band on the
of the
right side of the skirt
and the other on
wrong side.
Stitch into place
and work a buttonhole in the

left
right
hand end
band and place a button on the

skirt.
hand
end.
This finishes the

Petticoat with
The
having
a Yoke.
Cut
a yoke of the muslin,
according to the directions for cutting yokes in
LESSON
28,
m ade a pattern first. Make the yoke the same width from
all
the waist line
the
way
around.
Use the same foundation

This wilt
at the
pattern you used for the petticoat just given, but add 6 inches
at the back where the skirt
is
to
sew on the yoke.
make
yoke
the back
seam about
straight, as
bottom.
is
Of course the
deep, this
skirt will
be cut as
we add nothing much shorter

off at
as the
amount being taken

and sew
to the
the top and not
at the bottom of the skirt.

side
Gather the top
of the skirt
from back
having
seam
to placket
bottom
of the yoke,
the
seam on the
For
inside.
Cover the seam with a narrow bias

opening in the back must be faced
of
in-
band.
this skirt the
stead of
i}/2
hemmed.
Face with a straight piece
goods about
inches wide.
Lay one
side over
on the other at the bottom

This opening should be
line,
and
stitch across as in the other skirt.
12 inches long.
stitch a bias
Instead of the straight band at the waist

1
band about
inch wide to the yoke at the waist
Sevew Gc-red
~LL s
S1<i^t~
e 3
}-o>
TeH i Colt,
138
line,

having the band on the right side of the
side.
skirt.
Turn the
stitch
band over on the wrong

edge of the
Turn
in the
raw edge and
again, as near the edge as possible.

skirt.
Stitch again near the top
Work
a buttonhole and sew on a button near
the top of the yoke. the one given before.
Finish the skirt at the bottom the same as
LESSON
XXX
THE NIGHT - GOWN
For
the night-gown the shirt-waist draft
is
used.
After
deciding
how deep
the yoke
is
to be, trace off the pattern
on
piece of paper, using the neck, shoulder
and as much
of the
arm-
hole as needed.
For the
skirt of the
night-gown use the rest of
the armhole which was not used in the yoke.
For the under

so that the skirt
arm seam draw

will
slanting lines from point
be about
2 1-8
or
2%
yards around the bottom.

of the
Allow a
two-inch
hem
at the
bottom
gown, and at the
front,
where
the skirt gathers on the yoke, 4 inches for gathers and 3 inches
at the back.
right side,
Gather the skirt to the yoke, having the seam on the

finishing braid,
and cover the seam with

store.
which can be
bought at any dry goods
The yoke may be made any
depth, and as fancy as one wishes, using tucks, lace or embroidery.
very pretty gown
for the yoke.
the neck, or
in front.
may be made by using all-over embroidery The yoke may be buttoned down the front from it may be cut away, leaving a V-shaped opening
goods
is
There should be no seam down the front or back of

If the
the gown.
not wide enough to cut
it,
put gores
on
at the sides to make it wide enough. Open the skirt of the gown from the yoke down the front about 18 inches. Put hem of an inch wide down the right side and a narrow hem down the left side of the opening. At the lower end lay the
right side over
on the
left
and
stitch across to
keep
it
from tearing
Gather the
ruffle of
down.
For the sleeve use the shirt-waist
draft.
bottom into a band, or use a narrow band and sew a

lace or
embroidery to the lower edge.

the lower edge trimmed
The
sleeve
may
be cut
off short,
and
left to
hang
loose.
139
(ViH$owh
/Vldc/e
From.
LESSON XXXI
THE CHEMISE
For
off
the chemise the shirt-waist draft
may also be used.
Trace
on another piece of paper the neck, shoulder and armhole

After this pattern has been made, trace
circle
of the shirt-waist front.
with the tracing-wheel a
extending from about 4 inches

a point about
this line
2
from the neck, on the front
line, to
inches from
the armhole on the shoulder.
Cut on
from
and use the lower
part for the pattern of the chemise.

of the pattern
Add
5 inches to the front
and draw a
line
30 inches long, slanting
out enough at the bottom to
make
the skirt measure 3^ yard
from the front
line to the line just
drawn.
Make
arm
the front line
long enough to correspond with the under

back, trace
the front.
off
line.
For the
for
the neck, shoulder and armhole as
you did
Draw
a circle from a point
inches from the arm-
hole on the shoulder
seam
to a point 5 inches
from the neck on

of the
the back line.
Cut on
from
this line
and use the lower part

back
pattern for the chemise.
Add
3^2
5 inches to the
of the pattern
and draw a
line
30 inches long, slanting out enough to
make
the skirt measure
yard from the middle back seam to
the line just drawn.
This makes the bottom of the finished
garment measure
out
2
2 yards.
The
line
down
the back should slant
or 3 inches, as
shown
in the drawing.
To
cut from the
goods, lay the middle of the front and the middle of the back
on the
fold of the
goods lengthwise.
the same circle as the neck of
x inches wide, Cut a band \ /i the chemise, leaving off the amount
added
ders.
for gathers.
Join the front and back bands at the shoulof the goods.
Make
this
band double
Stitch the two pieces

in
together at the upper edge and turn.
Turn
both edges at the
lower edge of the band about /i inch.

141
Gather the chemise be-
cu
H=
V
to
-+-
^
<o-
-C
144
tween points
right
and
into this band, placing one edge

side.
on the
and one on the wrong
Stitch' in place, as
near the
i
edge as possible.
Face the armhole with a bias facing cut
inch wide.
Sew this facing to the garment on the right side. Turn back on the wrong side and after turning in the raw edge stitch in place, stitching as near the edge as possible. Sew about
the neck and armholes a narrow lace, fulled on.
These chemise
may be made very fancy, if one wishes, by putting in little yokes

of insertion or embroidery.
The Chemise without Gathers.

ments are often made
back, but
is
Another way these gar-
without any gathers at the neck
To
cut one this way, simply do not add the 5 inches to the front and
draw the
(See
will
front
111.)
and back
lines slanting
out 5 inches
at the bottom.
This will take out the fullness at the

skirt.
yoke but
not narrow up the
The chemise made
this
way
is
often embroidered in scallops about the neck and arm-
holes.
LESSON XXXII
women's corset covers
For
the tight-fitting corset cover, use the tight waist draft
without back forms.

everywhere.
Cut the pattern from paper, allowing seams

as low as desired.
Cut the neck out

off
In making
this corset cover,

it
sew up the seams on the wrong

one
side of the
side,
and
it
after
has been fitted trim
seam, leaving
about
34 inch wide.
baste
Turn
in the edge of the other side of the

(Fell seam.)
all
seam and
Stitch as
down
flat
over the trimmed edge.
near the edge as possible.
The seams should

this
be turned to-
wards the back.
A hem
iJ4 inches wide should be
made down
in
each side of the front.

the raw edge, and stitch.
Turn down
hem, having turned

left
Sew buttons on the

It
hand hem and
work buttonholes on the right hem.

with lace or embroidery.
face the armholes
of just
Trim the neck and armholes

corset cover stronger to
makes the
and neck with a narrow bias binding, instead
hemming them with a narrow hem. Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line. Use the shirt-waist draft. Cut out the neck as much as desired. Add
3 inches
on the front and nothing on the back.
Do
not add any-
thing to the bottom of the waist.
Hem
the neck and armholes

lace edge.
in at the
with a narrow
hem and sew on beading and

about
2
Run
ribbon through the beading.

of the waist, beginning at
Gather the waist

5
bottom
inches from the under
arm
seam on the
back.
front
and about
inches from this
seam on the
Sew
to the
bottom
of the waist a circular piece of muslin.
To
draft this piece, take a radius of 12 inches
and draw a part

this circle
little.
of a circle just Y2 of the waist measure. 3 inches.
Measure from
Draw
another
arc.
Slant the end out just a
Cut from the
cloth, laying the straight

145
end on the fold
of the
C^sef Cover wiih
a/
1e
>-
v>
m. seaM-
/vu</e
\y^
S7\i>> ^-vvais-V
Dra}+.
W
i\\jSk
148
goods lengthwise.
waist, having the
Sew
the top of this piece to the bottom of the

side.
seam on the wrong

Stitch
Before stitching,
it
baste a straight
band about
% of an inch wide so that

3 buttonholes
may be
turned up over the seam. turned in the raw edge.

right-hand
and turn the band up, having
Work about
line,
hem and
place buttons on the left hem.
down the Have one
at the top, one at the waist
and one
half
way between.
LESSON XXXIII
SEAMLESS CORSET COVER MADE FROM THE SHIRT-WAIST DRAFT
i.
Trace
off
on another piece
of
paper the back piece of the
shirt-waist draft.
2.
Measure towards the

with point
right from point
inch.
Connect
this point
3.
by a
straight line.
Measure
to the left of
line.
inch,
and connect
this
point
with
4.
T by
Lay
a straight
these two lines on top of each other
and trace
off
the
waist.
5.
Cut out
in the
neck as much as desired.

neck 3 inches.
Point U.
6.
7.
Add
to the front of the
Measure
Connect
to the right of point
X3
inches.
line.
Mark
This
this
V. the
8.
and
with a straight
line is
front line of the corset cover.

9.
Cut
all
in one piece, laying the center
back
line
on a fold
of the goods lengthwise.
Gather the bottom, beginning about 2Y2 inches from the Under Arm for the back and 4 inches for the front (Y to V).
10. 11.
Finish the bottom with a circular
frill,
as given for the
corset cover with

12.
Under Arm seam.
Gather the front at the neck, as given for the other corset
cover.
149
Se
2>
mless Cone \- cover*
Yna3e ^Yoyw
Aiv+wax$} D^a^f
LESSON XXXIV
women's circular drawers
To
take the measures
from the waist

line to just
Take waist measure,

Measure down the
above the bend
as for dress.
side of the leg
of the knee. in draft given
Measures used
25
23
Waist measure
.
inches
inches
Measure
to knee
Take a
edge.
1.
and one straight

Point
Measure from the corner
of the
paper
inches.
A.
2.
With
A as
a center
and a radius
measure
of 10 inches,
draw a
circle,

3.
Mark
1
this circle
B-C.
this point
From B on
From
B,
this circle
inch.
Mark
D.
4.
down
the edge of the paper, measure 6 inches.
Mark
5
6.
this point E.
Connect D and
E with a straight line.
Measure from point
on
circle
B-C
inch more than J4
the Waist measure.

7.
Mark
this point F.
From F on
circle
B-C measure 4
inches.
Mark
this point
G.
8.
Measure from point D, down the edge
of the paper, the
length of leg from waist to knee.

9.
Mark
draw a
this point
H.
With the corner
of the
paper as a center and the distance

circle
from the corner to
H as a radius,
151
from H.
152
10.
On
I.
this circle
from
measure 24 inches.
Mark
this
point
n. Connect
12.
j-
and
line
G with
a straight
line.
From G on
I-G measure
on
17% inches. Mark

H-I
this
point
13.
Measure from
Connect points
circle
1%
inches.
Mark
this
point K.
14. 15.
and F with a straight

with
line G-I.
line.
At J square a
line
Place point J on the chart at J on the draft so that the curve just touches line F-K. Draw curve.
16.
This finishes the front portion of the drawers.
To
1.
draft the
back
Measure from the corner
of the
paper
2 inches.
Mark
this
point A.
2.
With A
as a center
and a radius
of 10 inches,
draw a
B-C.
circle

3.
Mark
this circle
4.
From B on circle B-C measure 1 From B, down the edge of the

this point E.
inch.
Mark
this point
D.
paper, measure 6 inches.
Mark
5.
Connect
and
with a straight
line.
6.
Measure from
this point F.
on
circle
B-C 34
circle
the Waist measure.
Mark
7.
Measure from F towards B on

Measure from D, down the edge
B-C,
inch.
Mark
this point G.
8.
of the paper, the length of
leg
from waist to knee.
Mark
this point
H.
I.
9.
10.
Measure from point A, 2Y2 inches. Mark this point With I as a center and I-H as a radius, draw a Measure from H, on
J.
circle
from H.
11.
this circle, 26 inches.
Mark
this
point
12.
13.
Connect J and G with a straight line. Measure from G on line G-J, 20 inches.
Mark
this point
K.

14. 15.
153
At point
square a line with line J-G.
Measure from
Continue
K on this line ij^ inches.

L-K
past K.
Mark
this point
L.
16.
17.
line
Measure on
Connect
this line
from K,
inches.
Mark
this point
M.
18.
19.
M and F with a straight

L
with a straight
line.
Place point J on the chart at L and hold chart so that the curve just touches line M-F. Draw curve.
20.
Connect J and
Place point
line.
21.

line
and hold
so that
on the chart just touches
F-M.
Draw
curve.
This finishes the back portion of the drawers.
In cutting the pattern from the draft lay line
E-H
of the front
on
line
E-H
of the
back as there should only be one piece for

There should be no seam at the
side.
each leg of the drawers.
TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT SIZES

For every inch added to the waist, add
the front and curve
of the front
inch to curve H-I of
H-J
of the back.
x inch to G-J Also add /l
and G-K
of the back.
HOW
TO CUT MAKE AND FINISH THE CIRCULAR DRAWERS

;
Cut out two

of
pieces of the material, one for each side.
Sew
line
line
J-I to line L-J of each leg,
making a
fell
seam.
Sew
F-J
one front to
line
F-J of the other, beginning at point

This seam should be
bias
F and
a
fell
sewing for about

seam.
7 inches.
I.)
made
(See Lesson
Cut a
band about
inch wide and

right
sew
to the rest of this line F-J, placing the bias
band on the
side of the garment.
edge.
after
seam about J^ i ncn fr m tne Turn the band over on the wrong side of the garment, and turning in the raw edge, stitch into place. Put a bias
Stitch in a
facing on lines
G-L
of
both backs just as you have just been
CO
<J
CO
<
o
C
/*>
Woynens Circular Drawers.

3$e
t>\
PjL-pey
156
taught to do on the fronts.
Sew line D-E
to line
D-E at each side,

of
making a
one
fell
seam.
Finish about the top with a bias facing,

facings.
it is
put on just as you did the other

this
will
The lower edge

circle.
have
to be stretched, as
put on a
legs.
This
finishes the
drawers except the bottoms of the

little
be finished just with a

ruffle
it
lace edge, or they
These may may have a

trimming
2Y2 or 3 inches wide.

off as
The
draft was
made
full length, so
is
must be cut
much
at the
bottom
as the
wide.
Sew one edge
of the facing
about the bottom at the same
time you sew the
ruffle,
turn in the raw edge, and turn the facing
up
to
form a narrow hem.
Three buttons and buttonholes should

2
be placed down the back, beginning at G, about
inches apart.
Rather large buttons are
best.
LESSON XXXV
DRAFTING THE PEINCESS GOWN
The
waist part of the princess
gown
is
drafted just like the
tight waist with
French forms.
for draft given
Measures used
25 inches
Waist measure Neck measure
13^2 inches
15 inches inches inches
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
39
i^H
7^
15X 10^
16
inches
i. 2.
Draw line A-B

Measure from
length of
Back measure.
the
Under Arm measure.
Mark
this
point C.
3.
B
At
to
is
Y2 inch.
4.
5.
square a line with A-D.
Measure from
Place point
on
this line
\x
/l inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
6.
on the chart at B and draw curve through

with A-B.
E.
7. 8.
At C square a
line
9.
C to F is Y2 of Bust measure. From C on line C-F measure Y2

At
of
back width.
Mark
this
point G.
10. 11.

this line
Measure on
this point
from point
1-3 of
Armhole measure.
Mark
H.
157
158
12.

Place point
on the chart at point E, and draw curve
through H.
13.
14. 15. j16.
Extend curve J^ inch beyond H. Extend line G-H above H 1% inches. Mark
this line
this point I.
At
On
measure from
I 2 inches.
Mark
this point
From
on
K.
line
C-F measure 34
of
Armhole measure.
Mark
17.
this point
K and G.
Mark
this
point
L.
18.
19.
At
square a line with C-F.

this line
Measure on
2Y2 inches from K.
Mark
this
'point
20.
M.
Measure
full
length of curve E-H, and measure the
same
length from J on line I-J, extended.

21.
Mark
this point
N.
Place point
G
O
on the chart at
H and draw
curve through
L.
22.
Place point
on the chart at
L.
23.
j-
Place point
F on
the chart at
M and draw a curve through

so that
it will
24.
Square a
line
with
line
C-F
pass through
N.
25.
Measure on
is
this line
from C-F the Upper Front measure,
less
what
used in the back neck.
Mark
this point 0.
26.
Place point
on the chart at

34 of Neck measure.
27.
From O measure on
At P square a
Measure on
-
this line
Mark
this point P.
28. 29.
line
with
line
0-P.
1-6 of the
this line
from
Neck measure and
add 34 mcn
30.
Mark
this point Q.
O.
31.
From Q draw
line
through F.

32.
159
From Q on
this point
this line
measure the Front length measure.

line
Mark
33. 34.
R.
line
At L square a
Measure on
this point S.
with
C-F.
this line
from
the
Under Arm measure.
Mark
35.
36.
Connect S and
A with a straight line.

measure
From A on
Connect
this line
% of an inch.
line.
2
Mark
this
point T.
37. 38.
T and B
with a straight
Measure on the shoulder curve
inches from the
Arm-
hole. 39.
Mark
this point
U.

left of this point.
\}/
and
S.
Measure
inch to the
40.
Mark
this
point V.
From V measure
inches to the right.
Mark
this
point
41.
W.
Connect
and
W with a straight
the chart at
line.
42. Place point

line
C on
and
let
point
touch
U-W. Draw
Measure
Place point
curve.
1
43. 44.
to the right of S,
inch.
Mark
this point
X.
on the chart at
L and draw
curve through
X.
45.
Measure
to the left of S,
i% inches. Mark
this point
Y.
46. Place point
on the chart at
L.
47.
Measure from
of
to
and from
to
X.
This shows
how much
back.
48.
]/2
the Yl Waist measure has been used in the
From
point
towards
measure what
is
is
left
of
the
Waist measure after taking out what

this point.
used in the back.
Mark
49.
this point to point
R.
This gives what must be taken out in the dart to bring the
waist in to the desired measure.
50.
In this case
it is
4^
inches.
Place point
to S.
C on
the chart at
and with curve C-F
draw curve
160

Measure from J on curve J-O,
Measure from
2 inches.
51.
Mark
this point
Z.
52. 53. 54.
2Y2 inches.
Mark
this point a.
line. tall figure
Measure from a on
line
a-Z 8 inches for a
and
be
6 for a short figure.

55.
Mark
this point c.
Measure
to the right of a
4^ inches,
or the
amount
to
taken out in the dart.

56.
Mark
this point b.
Place point
B on
the chart at c and with curve
A-B
con-
nect c with b.
57.
Measure down from
R5
inches and from this point meas-
ure to the right J^ inch more than from

e.
to a.
Mark
this point
58.
Draw
a straight line from a through e and continue
it
the length of the front skirt measure.

59.
Point
f.
Continue
Point
line
d.
Q-F-R down
f
the
length of front skirt
measure.
60.
61.
Connect d and
Square a
line at
with a straight
line a-b
line.
it
b with
and continue
5 inches.
down
the
length of front skirt measure.

62.
Continue
line
L-S down below S
Mark
i.
this
point h.
63. 64.
i.
Measure
inch to the right of h.
Mark
this point
Place point
line
on the chart at
Y and
full
draw curve through
Extend
down
the length of side skirt measure.
The
slant of this line will
depend on how
the skirts are being
worn.
65.
Draw
straight line from
through h.
Continue down
length of side skirt measure.

66.
line
and
and square a
this point
j.
with line
V-W
and draw
inches long.
Mark
67.
Draw
From
straight line from
through
and continue down

and continue down
length of back skirt measure.

68.
W draw straight
line
through
length of back skirt measure.
JWftcess Gowyl.
jfa
69.
70.

Continue
line
A-B
5 inches
below A.
Mark
this point k.
From T draw
straight line through k.
Continue down
length of back measure.
The
will
slant of all the lines to 5 inches below the waist

this point
measure
depend on the hip measure. From

on the
entirely
fullness of the skirts being worn.

fit
down it depends The back lines
should always slant more than the front, to

of the hips.
over the large part
The
draft given
makes a medium width
skirt.
LESSON XXXVI
DRAFTING THE SINGLE
-
BREASTED,
TIGHT
FITTING,
TAILORED
COAT
In drafting the coat some of the measures must be increased,
as the coat
is
made
i
to go
on over the
measure
dress.
We
Add Add Add
add
1 1
inch to Waist
26
inches inches
inches inches
Neck measure same
as for dress
13^
16
inch to Armhole measure inch to Bust measure
40
14
yi inch to Back Width measure
inches
Under
Arm same
as for dress
7^
n>
16
inches
Front Length same as for dress.
i$}4 inches
inches inches
Add
yi inch to Upper Front Back Length same as for dress
i.
Draw A-B
length of back.
line
2.
Measure on
this point C.
A-B from
the
Under Arm measure.

an inch.
Mark
3.
Continue
line
A-B above B
line
%
1%
of
Mark
this
point D.
4.
5.
At D square a Measure from

Place point
with
line
A-B.
inches.
on
this line
Mark
this
point
E.
6.
on the chart at B and draw curve through
E.
7.
8.
At C square a line with line A-B. Measure from C on this line J^ the Bust measure.
Measure from C on
point G.
line
Mark
this point F.
9.
C-F the Back Width measure.
Mark
10.
At

163
164
ii.

Measure on
H.
Place point
this line 1-3 of the
Armhole measure.
Mark
this point
12.
D
3^2
on the chart at
H. Extend curve
13.
I.
mcn beyond H.
above
Extend
line
G-H
H 1% inches.
inches.
Mark
this point
14.
15.
At
square a line with line G-I.

I
Measure from
on
this line 2
Mark
this point
j16.
Measure
to left of
G on line
C-F 34
the
Armhole measure.
this point
Mark
17.
this point
K.
G and K. Mark
L.
18. 19.
At
square a line with C-F.

this line
From K measure on
Place point
2% inches. Mark
of
this point
M.
20.
on the chart at the end
curve
E-H
and draw curve through L.

21
Place point
on the chart at
M and draw curve through M and draw curve through

E-H and measure
N.
it
L.
22.
Place point
F on
the chart at
j23.
Extend
line I- J.
full
24.
Measure the
Square a
line
length of curve
the
same
25.
distance from J.
Mark
line
this point
with
C-F
so that
line
will pass
through N.
26.
Measure on
less
this line
is
from
C-F
at
the
Upper Front
point O.
measure,
27.
what
point
Mark
Place
J.
on
on
the
chart
and draw curve
through
28.
Measure from
line
O-N
line
J^>
the
Neck measure.
Mark
this point P.
29.
At P square a
line
with
O-N.
1-3 the
From P on this line, measure J4 inch. Mark this point Q.

30.
Neck measure
plus

31.
165
Place point
N on
the chart at
Q32.
33.
Draw
a straight line from

this line
Measure on
this point
from
Q through F. Q the Front
Length measure.
Mark
R.
34. Find a point half way between
and L.
Mark
this
point S.
35. 36.
At S square a
this point T.
line
with
line
C-F.
Measure from S on
Connect
this line the
Under Arm measure.

line.
Mark
37.
38.
and
with a straight
Measure on
Connect
this line
from A, Y2 of an inch.
straight line.
Mark
this
point U.
39. 40. 41.
and B with a
Measure from U, ij^
inches.
Mark
this point
V.
and the other end of
curve E-H.
42. 43.
Mark
this point
W.
line.
Connect
W and V with a straight

inches.
Measure from V, ij^

Place point
line
Mark
this point
X.
44.
C on
the chart at
and allow point
to
touch
45.
W-V. Draw
curve.
1
Measure
to the right of T,
inch.
Mark
this point
Y.
46.
Place point
Y.
47.
and X.
Mark Mark
this
point Z.
48.
Measure
a.
to the right of Z, J^ of
an inch.
this
point
49.
50.
Measure
to the right of a,
inch.
Mark
line.
this point b.
Place point
on the chart at b, and with curve

to
C-F draw
curve
curve through
51
and continue
Armhole
Place point
C on the chart at a and allow
to touch
G-b.
52.
Draw
curve.
to the left of
Measure
ij^ inches.
c
Mark
this point c.
S.
53.
Place point
A on the chart at
166
54-

Place point
c.
C on
the chart at
R and with curve C-F drawinches.
curve through
55.
From
R measure to the right 3

point
e
e.
Mark
this point d.
56.
Measure from
on curve J-0 the same distance as

line.
to
W.
57.
58.
Mark
Connect
and d with a straight
Measure up from d on
line d-e, 8 inches for slender form,

f.
and
6 for full form.
Mark
this point
59.
Find on the
tape-line,
3^ of the Waist measure.
Place
this point at
and measure from
to V, then
from
to b,
falls
then from a to Y.
Place the point on the tape-line which
at Y, at point c and with the rest of the Waist measure, measure
towards R.
60.
Mark where
this point to
the end of the tape-line
falls.
From
R is
the
amount which must be taken

In
out in the dart to bring the coat in to the desired measure.

this case it is 5 inches.
61.
Measure from d on curve R-c the amount

Place
to be taken out
in the dart.
62.
Mark this point g. point B on the chart
at
g.
TO FORM SKIRT OF COAT

Continue
63.
64.
line
A-B below
is
5 inches.
Mark
line.
this point h.
Connect
and h with a straight

coat
to be.
Continue
line
down as long as the

65.
i.
V and X. Mark this point
66. 67.
68.
lines
At i square a line with line A-T. Measure from i on this line 5 inches.
Connect
j
Mark
this point
j.
with
V and with X by straight lines.

of coat.
b.
Continue
point
down
to
bottom
69.
Find a point half way between a and
Mark
this
k.
70.
71.
At k square a line with line A-T. Measure from k on this line 5 inches.
Mark
this point
1.

72. line
i6j
Connect
with a and with b by a straight
line.
Continue
down
the length of the coat.

line
73.
Continue
S-T below
5 inches.
Mark
this
point
m.
74.
Connect
with
by a
straight line
and continue
line
down
75.
76.
n.
the length of coat.
Measure
to the right of
m,
inch.
Mark
this point n.
Place point
F on
the chart at c and
draw curve through

line
77.
Square a
line at
g with the straight
from d to
g.
Draw
78.
line the length of the coat.
Measure down from R,

Square a
line
5 inches.
Mark
this point o.
79.
with
line
Q-R
at
o.
80.
Measure from o on
this line
J^ of an inch more than from

through p and continue down
to d.
81.
Mark this point p. Draw a straight line from d
This forms the skirt of the coat, making a coat of

fullness.
medium
being
The
fullness
worn.
Draw
the lines from the hips down,
must be governed by the more or

comes together
with
in front.
coats
less slanting
as desired.
The
82.
coat, as it
is,
just
We must add
2
something for lap for buttons and buttonholes.
At F square a
line
line
Q-R and measure from F Q-R and measure from R,
inches.
83.
Mark
At
this point q.
2
inches.
84. 85.
Mark this point r. Draw a line through q and

Continue
line
r the full length of coat.
P-Q out
s,
to q-r.
Mark
inch.
line.
this point
s.
86.
87.
Measure down from

Connect
J of
an
Mark
this
point
t.
and
t
with a straight
88.
Measure from
on
line t-q, 8 inches, or
any desired
dis-
tance.
89.
Mark
this point u.
line
Continue
J-N
until it touches the neck curve.
Mark
this point v.
Snrfle
J.W.J T*H-* m,V *
Co ^-

90.
169
Measure down from v on the neck curve, 3^

Connect
inch.
Mark
this point w.
91.
and u with a straight
line.
This forms the
Lapel.
to draft the collar
92.
Measure from
Place point
on the shoulder curve, Y% inch.
Mark
this point x.
93.
D on the chart at v and draw curve through x.

curve beyond x as
94.
Extend
this
much
as the back neck
measures.
95.
Mark
this point y.
96.
97.
z.
Connect y and x with a straight line. Square a line with this line at y.
Measure on
this line
from
y,
2^ inches. Mark
J^ inch.
this point
98. aa.
99.
Measure
to the right
from
z,
Mark
this point
100. 101.
Measure from y on line y-z 1 inch. Connect aa and bb with a straight

Square a
line
Mark
line.
this point bb.
with
line w-u, so that it will
run through
point Q.
102.
103.
cc.
Measure from Q, iJi inches. Mark this point cc. Place point B on the chart at aa and draw curve through
Place point
104.
C on
the chart at v and draw curve through
bb.
LESSON XXXVII
LOOSE-FITTING UNLINED COAT
Measures used
Neck measure
for this draft
13
inches
inches inches
Armbole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure Length from back of neck bottom of coat Length from front of neck, bottom of coat
17
40
14
inches
inches
7^
11X
16
straight
i$}4 inches
inches inches
down back down
to
58^
straight
inches
front to
$5H
inches
i.
Draw
2.
line A-B length of back to waist line. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure. Mark
this point C.
3. 4.
5.
From B measure up Y2
At
m ch.
Mark
this point
D.
this point
square a line with A-D.
From
on
this line
measure
1%
inches.
Mark
E.
6.
Place point
on the chart at B, and draw curve through

with
E.
7.
At C square a
line
line
A-B.
Y2 of Bust measure.
8.
From C measure on
From C on
this point
line
this line
Mark
this point F.
9.
C-F measure
Y of Back Width measure.
Mark
10.
G.
At

171
172
ii.

Measure from
this point
on
this line
-J
of
Armhole measure.
Mark
12.
I.
H.
line
Continue the
above
H i%
E
inches.
Mark
this point
13.
Place point
on the chart at
H.
Extend curve Y2
14.
15.
m ch beyond H.
16.
At I square a line with line G-I. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point J. From G on line C-F measure 34 of Armhole measure.
this point
Mark
17.
K.
G and K. Mark this point

Mark
this point
L.
18.
19.
At
K square a line with line C-F.

G on
O
M.
Place point
the chart at end of curve
E-H and draw
curve through L.
20.
Place point
on the chart at
L.
21
j-
Place point
F on
the chart at
22.
23.
full
Continue
line I- J to the left. this line
From J on
Square a
measure the same distance as the

this point
length of curve E-H.

line
Mark
N.
pass through N.
24. 25.
with line C-F so that
it will
From
less
line
C-F, measure on this line the Upper Front

is
measure
O.
26.
j27.
what
Mark
this point
Place point
on the chart at
From
measure down Y2
of
Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P.
28.
29.
At P square a line with line O-P. Measure from P on this line 1-3
of
Neck measure,
plus
34 inch.
30.
Mark
this point Q.
O.
Loose
Fi\\iy\
Uy\line3 Coa-f.
174
31.
32.
Draw
straight line from
through F.
and L.
Mark
this
point R.
33.
34.
At

this line
Measure on
this point S.
from R, the Under
Arm
measure.
Mark
35.
Measure
to the left of S,
% of an inch.
R
through
Mark
this point
T.
36.
Draw
a straight line from
and continue
it
down
37.
Measure down from
on
line
Q-F
the length you wish
your coat to open in the neck.

38. 39.
Mark
this point
U.
At
square a line with line Q-U.

this line
Measure on
from
4 inches, for the lap of the

this point V.
coat in front (double-breasted).

40.
Mark
Connect point
and a point on the neck curve opposite

line.
point
41.
N
W.
with a straight
Measure down from
any convenient
distance.
Mark
point
42. 43.
At
Measure from
W square a with W on
line
line
Q-W.
Y2
this line
mcn
ess
than from
U to
V.
Mark this point X. Draw a straight line from V down the length of coat. Point Y.
44. 45.
through
and continue
Continue
line
line
A-B down
the length of coat.
The
back.
If
R-T forms
the under
arm
1
line for
both front and
more
of
fullness is desired,
measure
inch from S to T, instead

S.
of
an inch, and measure
of
an inch to the right of
Draw lines from R through these points. These coats are usually made up without a collar or with a large sailor collar. The sleeves may be made a medium sized flowing sleeve or the regulation coat sleeve.
LESSON XXXVIII
THE SLIGHTLY FITTED COAT
Measures used
for draft given
26
inches
Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure -Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
\$yi inches 16 inches

20
inches
inches
14
7K
15K
16
inches inches
11^4 inches
inches
1.
2.
Draw A-B length of back. From A measure the Under Arm

Measure above B, Y2
inch.
measure.
Mark
D.
this
point C.
3.
Mark
this point
4.
5.
At
square a line with line A-D.
From
on
this line
measure
1%
inches.
Mark
this point
E.
6. 7.
At C square a
line
with
line
A-B.
Measure from C on
this line the
Bust measure.
Mark
this
point F.
8.
From C on
At
line
C-F measure the Back Width.
Mark
this
point G.
9.
10.
Measure from
this point
on
this line 1-3 of
Armhole measure.
curve through
Mark
11.
H.
Place point
on the chart at
175
E and draw
H.
Extend curve Y% inch beyond H.
176
12.
I.

Extend
line
G-H
above
ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
13.
At
I square a line I
with line G-I.
14.
From
on
this line
measure
inches.
Mark
this point
j15.
Measure from
this point
on
line
C-F 34 the Armhole measure.
Mark
16.
K.
and G.
Mark
this
point L.
17. 18.
At
Measure from
Place point
K square a line with line C-F. K on this line 2Y2 inches.

G
on the chart at the end on the chart at
Mark
this point
M.
19.
of curve
E-H and
draw curve through L.

20.
Place point
L.
21.
j-
Place point
F on
the chart at
22.
J.
Measure curve E-H and measure the same distance from

this point
line
Mark
23.
N.
with
line
Square a
C-F
so that it will pass through
point N.
24.
Measure from
line
C-F on
x
this line the
Upper Front measthis point 0.
ure, less
25.
what
is
Mark
Measure down from 0, /i the Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P.
26. 27.
At P square a line with Measure from P on this

Place point
line
0-P.
line 1-6 of
Neck measure. Mark
this point Q.
28.
N on
Q
the chart at
Q29.
Draw
a line from
through F.
this line the
30.
Measure from
on
Front Length.
Mark
this
point R.
31.
At L, square a
line
with
line
F-C.

32.
177
Measure from
this point S.
on
this line the
Under Arm measure.

line.
Mark
33.
Connect S and
with a straight
1-3 the distance
34.
Measure from A,
from
A to S. Mark this
point T.
35. 36.
Measure Y2 inch to the left of T. Mark this point U. Find a point half way between E and the end of curve
this point V.
E-H. Mark
37. 38.
Connect
U and V with a straight line.

to the left of
Measure
U,
39. Place point

line
C on
curve.
the chart at
Y inch. Mark this point W. W and allow curve to touch

Mark
this point
U-V.
Draw
40.
41.
Measure
to the right of S, Y2 inch-
X.
Place point
C on
the chart at
L and draw
Mark
from
curve through
X.
42.
Measure
to the left of S,
inch.
this point
Y.
43. Place point

44.
B on
chart at
L and draw
curve through Y.
Measure from
1-3 the distance
R to Y. Mark this
point Z.
45
O.
Measure from
E to V, and measure this same distance from

line.
Mark
46.
this point a.
47.
Find out how much should be taken out on the dart to
bring the coat in tight to the waist and take out about 2-3 of
this
amount.
Mark
this point b.
48.
Draw
a straight line from b to the point where b'ne
C-F
crosses line a-Z.

49.
50.
z.
Continue
line
Q-R below A
c square over
6 inches.
Measure from
Y2 inch more than from
R to
Mark
51.
this point d.
line.
Connect d and Z by a straight
52.
Connect Z and b with a straight

this line at b.
line
and square a
line
with
53. 54.
Measure down 6
Continue
line
inches.
Mark
this point e.
A-B below
a 6 inches.
Mark
this point
f.
178

g.
55.
and U.
Mark
this
point
56. 57.
Square a
line at
g with line A-S.

inches.
58. 59.
Measure down from g 6 Connect h with U and

Continue
line
Mark Mark
this
point h.
W by straight
Q-R Q-R
at F.
lines.
L-S down 6 inches.

with line
this point
i.
60.
Connect
Square a
with
line
X and Y by straight lines.

this line
line
61. 62.
63.
Measure from F on
Square a
line line
4 inches.
Mark
this point
j.
with
at a point ij^ inches below
Q
k.
on
64.
Q-R.
Measure from
Connect k and
Q
j
on
this line 4 inches.
Mark
this
point
65. 66.
with a straight
line.
Measure from k on
line k-j 9 inches, or as
much
as
you
wish the coat to open in front.

67.
Mark
this point
line
1.
Measure down ^2 mcn fr m where neck curve. Mark this point m.

68.
J-N meets the

This forms the
Connect
and
with a straight
line.
LAPEL.
In making the coat lap the fronts so that

falls
line
Q-R
of
one side
on
line
Q-R
of the other.
TO DRAFT THE COLLAR
69.
Measure from
this point n.
on the shoulder curve on the chart at
of
an inch.
through
Mark
70.
n.
Place point
D
as
m and draw curve

as the
Extend curve
much beyond n
back
of the
neck
measures.
71.
Mark
this point o.
Square a
line at o
with a straight
this
line
line
from n
to o.
72.
Measure from o on
Continue the
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point p.
73.
q-
line
x up from p \ /l
inches.
Mark
this point
SliqlU)!
Fitte*
C'*h
180

Measure
to the right of
74.
75.
q 34 inch.
Mark
this point r.
s.
Measure from k
Place point
2% inches. Mark
this point
76.
77.
Place point
D on the chart at m and draw curve through s. D on the chart at p and draw curve through
with
s
m
'
(break of collar.)
78.
Square a
line
line
m-1 so that
it
passes through
s.
79.
Measure from
Square a
line
on
this line 2 inches.
Mark
this point t,
80.
81.
u.
with line m-1 at m.
Measure from
Place point
Place point
m on this line 2^ inches.

chart at r and chart at
t
Mark
this
point
82.
83.
B on F on
draw curve through
u.
u.
LESSON XXXIX
HOW
TO MAKE AND FINISH THE TAILORED COAT
This
is
We have taught you how to draft the coat.

atively easy thing, but to
a compar-
make
is
the coat
is
one of the most
difficult things the dressmaker
called
upon
will
to do.
However,
little
if
you
follow our directions carefully
you
have
trouble.
After
having made your
draft,
make
a pattern, just as you
were taught to do in making the gowns.

nap, this should run down.
Lay
the pattern on the

If the
goods, having the wrong side of the goods up.
goods has a
Be sure to have the waist line of THE STRAIGHT PATTERN OF THE GOODS CROSSWISE. Mark THE ON
carefully
all
seams and the waist
line
with
tailor's chalk, also

is
mark
where the pockets are to be.

buttons and buttonholes.
Mark
the line which
the turn of
the lapel, where the bottom of the coat should be, and for the After these lines have
all of
all
been marked
with the chalk, trace on

a thread of
them with a running stitch, using a contrasting color from the goods. Be very careful
on the
line.
to keep exactly
We
are
now ready
The
to shrink
and
It is
stretch the different parts, to give it the desired curves.
the curve which gives the garment style.

give will
directions
we
be for the fitted coat.

not need
it.
The
loose coat
and the semi-
fitted will
A
dom
large tailor's iron
lored garment.
must always be used in making the The main reason why a dressmaker's coat
is
taisel-
has the style of the tailored garment
because
it is
nearly
always pressed with a

used by the
tailor is
common
flat-iron.
The
iron which is
never lighter than 15 pounds, while the ordi-
nary
flat-iron
it
only weighs about 3 or 4 pounds.
Heat the iron

it
as hot as
can be used without scorching.
Never use
on the
bare goods and never on the right side of the goods.

181
Use a clean
182
sponge to dampen the goods and a piece of clean muslin without

starch to place between the goods and the iron.
ironing-board, not too heavily padded.
to give the goods a very
It
Have
a flat
must be hard enough

are ready to proceed
dead
press.
We
with the shrinking and stretching.
With the wet sponge dampen
a line on each piece, represented in the drawing by letters

C, D.
B,
While they are
still
wet, place the iron on them.
Be very
iron.
If
careful to have the goods perfectly

any
little
smooth under the

difficult to get
creases are pressed in
it is
very
them
out.
it
This
is all
there
it is
is
to the shrinking process,
but as simple as
may
For
seem,
really difficult
and needs considerable
practice.
Now we will begin to stretch the seams,

this
to give the desired curve.

is
you must study the form

For a very
full
for
which the garment
being
made.
form you
will
need to stretch the seams
quite a bit, while for a very slender person they will only be
stretched a very
little. first.
Take the
front piece
Dampen with
little
it is
the sponge the under
arm seam
it is
at the waist line

it
and a
above and below.
While
it
wet, place
on the board, and as
pressed stretch
as
desired.
Nov/ dampen the place which comes at the highest

Stretch
iron about in a small circle.
it
is
part of the bust (indicated by a cross on the drawing).

this
by moving the
all
care not to stretch
too much, as the curve of the
give nearly
that
needed.
stretch each edge at the waist
Take great seam will Take the under arm piece and line as you did the front, also
stretch the waist line at point a.
The back
so
pieces will not

is
need to be stretched, unless for a very full form, as the back

straighter than the front
careful to stretch each
and does not need

sew up the seams.
much
curve.
Be
seam the same amount.
We
are
ready now
to
Sew
the two front
the seams pieces together first. Before beginning to baste, pin between these points at the waist line, then at the shoulder and in
,
more than every few inches, as in basting one side will stretch
the other.
coat.
Now
Continue the pinning down to the bottom of the rather baste the seam with a running stitch, taking

small, even stitches.
183
pieces together in
Next pin and baste the two back form the same way. The seams next to the middle
left
back seam are usually

bottom,
is left
if it is
open
for
about 4 or
5 inches
from the
a short jacket. If a long coat, then the
back seam
line to the
open instead of the side ones, from the waist

of the coat.
bottom
When
arm
these seams are left open a piece
must
Baste
be cut on one side of the seam to run under the opening.

the front to the under
to the
piece,
and
last of all the
back parts
under arm
piece, in
each case beginning at the under arm

Stitch the seams,
piece and working both ways.

press open.
If the
dampen and
goods has a nap the seams should be scraped
before pressing.
shears.
If
Scrape against the nap with a dull knife or
This gives a flatter appearance to the seam when pressed.
pockets are put in the coat they must be located with great
care.
No
matter how well the coat

will look
is
made,
if
the pockets are
badly located the coat
home-made.
Until you learn
by
practice just where the pocket should be,
you
will
have
to
locate
them by placing the garment on the patron and placing

best.
You will soon learn to tell very nearly where they should be. To put in the pocket Place a piece of linen canvas back of the marking for the pocket. Make
them where they look the
a,
smooth
straig ht cut
on the
line of basting.
1
Cut two
pieces of
the goods thus, V
J about
inch longer than the cut; these

of the pieces
two pieces are the pocket.

lower side of the cut.
Lay one
on the right
side of the coat, so that the top edge
comes just even with the
Have
the right side of the goods together.
Stitch across on the machine,
making a very small seam.
Push
this piece of the pocket through the opening,
and turn down so
that a
cord.
little of
the pocket shows from the right side, like a small
Stitch across on the right side near the first stitching.
Now make a flap for the pocket. Cut a piece of the goods about 2% inches wide and Y2 inch longer than the opening of the pocket.
Turn
the ends in a
little
more than J^ inch, and one long

press a dead
press.
side the
same amount. Dampen and
Fit a piece of
the material to be used for the coat lining to this piece of goods,
1 84

all
turning in
the edges, except the one unfinished side.
Do
not
have the lining come quite to the edge.
Press again without

stitch-
dampening, and stitch about the three sides so that the

ing will catch the lining.
This finishes the flap for the pocket.
The flap when

coat,
it is
finished should be just the size of the opening.

its right side
Place the flap with
against the right side of the

unfinished edge
Stitch across,
is
above the opening, so that
its
just even
very-
with the upper side of the opening.

small seam.
making a
Turn the
flap
down over
the opening, and turn the

first stitching.
seam up and baste on the outside near the
Put
the right side of this piece against the right side of the coat.
Now
lay the other piece of the pocket on the wrong side of the coat
so that the straight side
is
just
above
this last basting; stitch
on
this basting,
being careful to catch the pocket.
Turn the coat

on top
Stitch twice
over.
The two
pieces which form the pocket will He one
of the other.
Stitch
them together
in a flat seam.
so they will not rip.
The
front edge of the flap should always
follow the front edge of the coat.

of finishing the pocket.
This
is
the most
common way
you
There are
many
fancy ways to be found

eyes open and
on the ready-made garments.

will learn
Keep your
many
of them.
Now we must put
the canvas in the coat.
If the
coat
is
made
of rather light goods, the entire coat should
be lined with a light
weight cotton canvas, which

store.
If the
may
be bought at any dry goods
goods
is
firm and heavy this interlining need not

tailor's
be used.
The canvas must be
canvas, and not the kind
used by dressmakers for

flat
on the ironing-board.
it.
Spread the canvas many purposes. Wet a large piece of muslin very wet
and spread over

is
Iron with a very hot iron until the cloth
dry.
Turn
the canvas over and place the wet cloth on this
side
and press dry.
Remove
the cloth and press the canvas
Spread the canvas on the cutting-table and put the pattern on it. Trace the shape shown in the drawing,
until thoroughly dry.
remove the pattern and cut
out. In cutting this piece the length-
wise threads of the canvas should follow the edge of the coat.

Slash the edge of the canvas in about 1Y2 inches where
it
185
comes
the
over the most prominent part of the bust, half
way between
2
neck and armhole at the shoulder seam, and about

the shoulder seam in the neck.
inches from
Stretch these slashes open and
baste pieces of canvas back of

together again.
of the bust
them
so that they cannot
come
of
Dampen
the canvas where the prominent part

to
comes and stretch
form the proper shape.
Two
these pieces should be prepared, one for each side of the coat.
Baste them into place, having the edge of the canvas come even with the coat.
the edge of
Cut the canvas back about J4 of an inch from the cloth. Now we must pad the lapels with the
These stitches should be short and near
line for the
padding
gether.
stitches
it
stitch.
to-
Begin at the
turn of the lapel.
Take the
the lapel
through the canvas and into the goods, but not through
it
so that
shows on the right
side.
Completely
rill
with stitches, done in rows following the line of turning.
As the
cause
work is done cause the

it
lapel to
have a
slight curl.
This
will
to turn
more gracefully and give

on rather
tightly.
style to the garment.
Pro-
vide yourself with some stay tape.
Fasten
this
about the edge,

it
putting
is
it
Do
not allow the stitches where
fastened to show on the right side.
Dampen and
press dry.
Now
sew up the shoulder seams, without catching
in the canvas.
Press with a dead press and allow the canvas to he flat over the
seam.
Cut two
pieces of the goods the
same shape
as the canvas,
for a facing of the coat.
Baste the edges of the facing to the
edges of the coat, having the right side of the facing against the
right side of the coat.
possible.
Stitch the edges as near the stay tape as
Turn
the facing over on the

together,
wrong
side of the coat
and baste the edges

good shaped corner.
finished
making a
is
straight,
even edge.
it
Be
sure that the corner of the lapel
pulled out so that

it
makes a
Roll the lapel over as
should
roll
when
Baste
and baste the facing along the
line of turning.
the back edge of the facing to the coat.
Cut a piece
of the light
1^/2
canvas which was used

inches wide.
for the interlining,
on the bias, about
Fold
this
through the center lengthwise and baste
186

is
the turned edge along the thread where the coat
to turn
up
about the bottom.

will stay exactly
Use short
stitches in basting this so that it
on the thread.
Turn
Trace
the goods
up on
this
canvas, being sure to turn on the exact line for the bottom.
We are ready to put on

seams everywhere.
the collar.
off
the collar from the

}/[
draft on another piece of paper
and cut
out, allowing
mcn
Have
the right sides of the goods together
and cut two

goods,
pieces together.
Before raising the pattern from the

Stitch this, open
mark
the back seam.
and
press.
Cut
Stitch
two
pieces of canvas on the bias
by
the
same pattern.
of the
the back
seam and press open. Lay the back seam
canvas
on the back seam of the goods, having the canvas on the wrong
side of the goods.
Baste the canvas and the cloth together
thoroughly.
Cut the canvas away from the outside edge and

Fasten the canvas to the goods with
little
at the ends about 34 inch.
a padding stitch, stretching the goods a
tighter than the
canvas, so that the collar will
roll as it
should
when on
the coat.
The padding should be done from

is
the canvas side.
After this
thoroughly done, stitch the collar with straight rows of stitchis
ing until the point
reached where the collar turns.
From
this
point to the outer edge stitch with a row of zig-zag stitching extending the full length of the collar. Thus -
Cut another piece from the goods by the same pattern but
having no seam in the back.
Lay
the back edge of the pattern
x inch on the Allow about /i Baste pieces. as did on the other and allow seams you neck edge
on
fold of the
goods lengthwise.
this piece to the collar
you have prepared, having the right

of the canvas.
sides
of the
goods together.
Stitch on the machine along the two ends
and the outside edge, near the edge

collar so that
Turn the
is
both sides are of the goods and the canvas
be-
tween. Baste along the edge, making a smooth even, edge.
Pin
the back seam of the collar, leaving the outside piece of the goods
loose, to the
back seam
of the coat.
Have
the under side of the
collar against the right side of the coat.
Pin the neck edge of

the collar each
187
way from
the seam to the neck of the coat so
that the ends of the collar
come
at point
Q on
the draft, or
1%
inches from the point of the lapels.
Baste this seam firmly

taking great
and
stitch
on the machine.
Dampen and press open,
care not to spoil the curve.
Bring the right side of the collar

Bring
it
over smoothly and baste along the line of turning.
on over
is
to the
neck seam, and baste.
You
will find that there
little
is
seam where the facing and the

not stitched.
collar
meet at each end,

stitch with very
which
it will
Bring the seam together neatly so that

it
follow the
seam underneath
and blind
small stitches.
Stitch all about the edge of the coat about J4 inch from the edge. Be very careful when you stitch about the
lapels
and collar
are ready
to turn
good square corners.
We
now
to line the coat.
Cut the back pieces Cut the front
of
the lining
of
an inch larger than the pattern at the back seam.
Cut the
side pieces the
same
as the pattern.
side
pieces the
same
as the pattern, but
when you
cut the front pieces,
lay a plait in the goods about the center of the shoulder seam
and about
inch deep at the shoulder seam, allowing

it
it
to taper
out to nothing as
comes down to the bust.
Allow enough to
Baste up
turn in where the lining comes on to the front facing.

all
but the shoulder and under arm seams.
Stitch
and
press.
all
Baste the back seam to the back seam of the coat.
Baste
about the armholes and at the shoulder and under arm seams.
Turn
in the
neck and baste down.

in the shoulder
Baste the fronts in about the

flat to
armholes.
Turn
seams and baste down

in
the back shoulder seams.
Turn
the under arm seam and

in
baste flat to the back portion.
Turn
down
the front and

all
baste to the back edge of the facing.
Turn up
about the
bottom, keeping the lining away from the edge of the coat about
1-8 of
an
inch.
Now hem
the shoulder seams, the under
arm
seams,
down the front, about the bottom and about the neck. The coat is all finished now but the sleeves. Cut the pattern and the sleeves from the goods just as you did
the dress sleeve.
.for
Baste up and try on.
Get the exact length
Colt
Showing where
is
$}retchi*f
a*J skYtyiTfiTif
3oiie, a Xj>
y>iecc
| C
a>\vas
2"K
|^^*nh

and run a thread marking where the
sleeve
is
189
Stitch
to turn.
up the
canvas
inside
seam and press open.
spread the sleeves out on the table.
Open Cut a
the other
seam and
piece of the tailor's
3^
inches wide and cover one edge
with a piece of
cotton lining material cut on the bias.
Baste the piece of can-
vas to the sleeve so that the covered edge just follows the line
where the sleeve
is
to turn up.
Baste the canvas to the sleeve

Press
thoroughly and stitch up the outside seam of the sleeve.

open.
Turn up the
sleeve at the hand.

press.
Cut a
lining
by the same
to the
pattern, stitch
up and
Place inside of the sleeve and the
seams together.
sleeve about
1
Turn the
lining
up
at the
hand and hem
inch from the edge of the sleeve.
Sew
the sleeves
to the coat without catching the lining. lining
Stitch in
and bring the
up over the seam.
Turn
in
and hem down.
LESSON XL
THE CHILD'S DRAFT
The measures
used are of a child 3 years of age.

24
inches inches
inches
Bust measure
Neck measure
Waist measure Armhole measure Front Length measure Back Length measure Under Arm measure Upper Front measure Back Width measure
9K
23
13
10
9
4K inches
&}i inches
8 inches
i. 2.
Draw
line
A-B
length of back.
Measure from
this point C.
on
line
A-B
the Under
Arm
measure.
Mark
3.
Continue
line
A-B above B 34
inch.
Mark
this point
D
4.
5.
At
From
measure on
this line
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
6.
7.
At C square a
line
with
line
A-B.
J^ of Bust measure.
Measure from C on
this line
Mark
this
point F.
8.
From C on
line
C-F measure Y2 the Back Width measure.
Mark
this point G.
9. At G square a line. 10. Measure on this line from Mark this point H.
11
G 1-3
E
of
Armhole measure.
Place point
D
}/%
on the chart at
and draw a curve through
H.
Extend curve
inch beyond H.
191
192
12.
I.

Continue
line
G-H above
H ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
13.
At
14. From I measure on this line 2 inches. Mark this point J. 15. From G on line C-F measure to the left J^ of Armhole measure. Mark this point K. 16. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this point
L.
17. 18.
At K square a Measure from

Place point
line
line
with
line
C-F.
on
this line 2 inches.
Mark
this point
M.
19.
on the chart at the end on the chart at
of curve
E-H and
draw
20.
touching line G-H.
Place point
this point
and draw curve
through L.
21.
Place point
K on the chart at M and draw curve through

F on
full
L.
22.
j-
Place point
the chart at
23.
Measure the
Square a
length of curve
line I-J
same distance from J on

24. 25.
E-H and measure the continued. Mark this point N.

it will
line
with line C-F so that

line
pass through N.
Measure from
C-F on
this line the
Upper Front measthis point O.
ure, less
26.
j-
what
is
Mark
Place point
on the chart at
27.
Measure down from

this point
on
line
O-N
34 of Neck measure.
Mark
28. 29.
P.
line
At P square a
with
line
O-N.
Measure from P on
this line 1-6 of
Neck measure and add

curve through O.
34
inch.
30.
31. 32.
Mark
this point Q.
Q and draw
Draw
a line from
through F.
this line the
Measure from
this point
on
Front Length measure.
Mark
R.
CteUa* $i\t
194
33.
34.
At L square a
Measure from
this point S.
line
with line C-F.
on
this line the
Under
Arm
measure.
Mark
35.
Connect
A and
S with a straight
line.
36.
37.
Connect S and
R with
a straight
line.
is.
Find out how much too large the Waist measure

is
In
this case it
1% inches.
half this distance to left of S
38.
Measure
and
half to right
of S.
39.
Mark
these points
T and
U.
Place point
B B
on the chart at on the chart at
L and draw
curve through
T.
40.
Place point
L and draw
curve through
U.
In cutting out allow
all
seams.
LESSON XLI
Measures used
Arm Arm
for draft given
8 4
13
Length measure Length to elbow Armhole measure Hand measure
inches
i.
2.
Draw A-B length of Arm. From A measure length of Arm

line
to
bend
of
Elbow. Point C.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
A-B. At A square a line with At B square a line with line A-B. At C square a line with line A-B. Measure from B on line, Y2 inch. Mark this point D. Measure from C, 34 inch. Mark this point E.
8.
Measure
Connect
to the left of A, Y2 inch.
Mark
line.
this point F.
9.
Place point
on the chart at
E
1
and draw curve
to F.
10.
and
with a straight
n. Measure
12.
to the right of
D,
inch.
Mark
this point
G.
Measure
to the right of G, 2 inches

this point
more than the Hand
measure.
13.
Mark
H. H,
1
Measure
Extend
to the right of
inch.
14.
line
A-B
above A, ij^ inches.
Mark this point I. Mark this point

this point
j15.
16.
Measure
to the right of J,
3^2
inch.
Mark
K.
Measure from A, the Armhole measure.
Mark
this
point L.
17.
Measure
to the left of L, 4 inches.
18.
Measure
to the left of L,
i% inches.
Mark this point M. Mark this point N.
*95
ChiJJs'
Sleeve

19.
197
At
it.
M square a line with line A-L and extend line J-K to

Point 0.
meet
20.
At
0-K and mark where

curve to
I.
it
touches line A-L, P.

21.
Place point
on the chart at
L and draw
Place point J on the chart at F and draw curve through K. 23. Place point F on the chart at O and draw curve to N.
22. 24.
25. "
Place point
F on
the chart at
N and
continue curve to L.
this point
P and M. Mark
Q26.
With
as a center
and a radius Q-K draw curve from

?
to 0.
27.

Square a
and
I.
Mark
this point
R.
28..
line at
R with line D-I

this point S.
S,
and measure on
this line
from R, Yz
29.
inch.
Mark
Place point
I.
on the chart at
and draw curves through
and
30.
Gather the sleeve from
inch from
to 1 inch
from
I.
Also from
to 0.
LESSON XLII
child's coat sleeve
Measures used
for draft given
8
inches inches inches inches
inches
measure
to elbow
4
13
Armhole measure
Hand measure
Elbow measure
i.
2.
Draw A-B
Mark
length of Arm.
Measure from
Square a
line
on
line
A-B length
of
Arm
to
bend of
Elbow.
3.
4.
5.
this point C.
with
line
A-B, at C.
Measure from
Place point
C on
this line
Y inch.
D
Mark
this point
D.
on the chart at
and draw curves
to
and B.
6.
7.
Square a
line at
with line A-B.

this line
Measure from
H.
B on
Yi the
Hand
measure.
Mark
this point
8.
Measure
to the right of
H YL inch.
Mark
this point I.
9. At I square a line with line B-I. 10. Measure from I on this line Y2 inch. Mark n. Connect J and B with a straight line.
this point J.
12. 13.
Measure from J on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point K. Measure from D Yl of Elbow measure. Mark this point
Measure
to the left
E.
14.
and right
of
Y inch.
Mark
these
points
F and
G.
15. Place point
F on
the chart at
F and draw
curve through
K.
199
ChilJs' Sleeve.

1 6.
201
Place point
F on
the chart at
17.
Measure
Connect
line
G-J and add enough

this point L.
to line
F-K
to
make
it
the same length.

18. 19.
Mark
L and B
with a straight
line.
At

this line
20.
Measure from A on
Y% of Armhole measure.
inches.
1
Mark
this point
21. 22. 23.
24.
M.
left of
Measure to the
Continue
line
M3
A-B above A,
inch.
Mark this point N. Mark this point 0,

and mark point P, and mark point Q,
At At
it
square a line with line B-0.

line
A-M
where
25.
meets
from 0.
Square a
it
line at
with
line
A-M
line.
where
26.
27. 28.
meets
line
from 0.
Connect P and
Place point
with a straight
on the chart at
on
line
x
G and
draw curve
to Q.
Measure from
Place point
is 1
0-Q /l inch. Mark
this point
R.
29. Place point
30.
F on F on
the chart at the chart at
and draw curve
to A.
P and draw
curve to S,
which
31.
inch to the right of A.
Continue curve to A.
as a radius
Use
as a center
and
N-R
and draw curve
R-Q.
all
seams.
LESSON XLIII
child's rompers
The rompers
1.
2.
Use the same draft as
given are for a child of 3 years. for the child's waist.
Add Add
W-V.
inch
down
the back line, S-T-U.
inches to the bottom of the back waist portion,
line
3. 4.
5.
Add
inch to the front line X-Y-Z.

lines
Leave out
L-U and L-T
of the waist draft.

S, 2 inches.
For the back neck, measure from
To draft the down below S, L-S

6.
7.
trousers part of the rompers

5 inches.
Continue
line
Measure
to the right of the
end of
this line J/ inch.
Mark
this point a.
8. 9.
Connect a-S with a straight

Continue
line
line.
X-Y-Z below
Z,
12}^ inches.
Mark
this
point b.
10.
At b square a line with line Z-b and draw 22^ inches long.
this point c.
Mark
11. 12.
e.
Measure from b on
line b-Z, 3 inches.

line b-c, 3 inches.
Measure from b on
Mark this point d. Mark this point
13.
Place point J on the chart at e and draw curve through
d.
14. 15.
f.
inch. Mark this point f. Draw a line from e through f and continue 5 inches beyond Mark this point g. 17. Measure from U on line U-T ij^ inches. Mark this point
16.
At c square a line with line c-e. Measure from c on this line, 1
203

18.
205
Place point

inch beyond
h.
19.
Continue curve
i.
20.
Connect g and
with a straight
line.
21. 22.
J-
Measure from g on line g-i 5 inches. Mark this point j. Place point J on the chart at f and draw curve through
all
seams.
LESSON XLIV
HOW
Trace
Trace
off
TO CUT AND FINISH THE ROMPERS

another piece of paper the front
portion,
on
allowing seams everywhere except

off
down
the front line X-Y-Z-d.
the back, allowing seams everywhere except
down
the back line S-U-V, where ij inches should be allowed.
Cut on
wide,
yards.
line S-a.
This
is
the pattern for the
Rompers.
The amount
2 1-8
of
goods required for the Rompers
27 inches
fold of the
all
yards; 36 inches wide, \Yi yards; 44 inches wide, ij^
To
cut from the goods
Lay
line
X-Y-Z on a
Trace
goods lengthwise and cut the front portion.

before you raise the pattern from the goods.
the double goods, having line
cross-wise.
seams
Lay
the back on
of the
W-V
on the straight
goods
Sew Sew
line d-e to line
f-j.
the shoulder
seam
of each
back
to the shoulder
seam of
each front.
Sew
line
L-S of each back

side, line S-a,
to line
L-S
of the fronts.
Face each
with a continuous facing.
Turn the
facing on the back under for a
hem and
leave the front project-
ing for an under lap.
Sew
line
i-j
of
one side to
i-j
of the other.
Gather
line i-s
of each side so that it fits

it
on to
line
S-U
of
the back, and face
with a straight facing about 1 J^ inches wide.
Turn
in the edges
down
the back
inch after having turned in
the raw edge and stitch.

Finish the neck square or round, with either a bias band of the
goods put on the right side or with embroidery insertion.
Sew buttons and work buttonholes down

207
the back.
209
Work
S-U.
buttonholes along line
S-i
and place buttons along

of each leg
Put a
half -inch
hem
in the
bottom
and run
tight.
elastic
in the hems, just the size of the child's leg,
but not
For the sleeve use the Child's Full Sleeve Draft.
Finish at the
hand with a
straight
band
or insertion.
Make
back
a belt ij^ inches wide and fasten along the top of the
of the trousers part
and bring it around
in front
and button.
TO DRAFT THE DIFFERENT SIZES
Take the measure of the child for the waist part and draft the same as the Child's Waist Draft. For the leg part, for each
size larger
add
inch to the length of the leg from waist line
down.
Add Yz
inch to the length of line Z-d and
I-j.
LESSON XLV
BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE SUIT
To
take the measures for Blouse
Bust measure plus
2 inches.
Neck measure.
Waist measure plus 2 inches. Armhole measure. Front Length to waist line. Back Length to waist line. Upper Front measure. Front Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Width measure. Plus 1 inch.
Measures used
Bust
for this draft
26
inches
Neck
Waist
q} inches
25
13
inches
Armhole
Front to waist
inches
inches inches
10
Back to waist Upper Front Back Width

Front Length to knee
9
9
%]4 inches
inches
inches
20
19
Back Length
to knee
inches
THE BLOUSE
i.
2.
Draw line A-B length of back to waist line. From A measure the Under Arm measure.
Continue
Square
line
Mark
this
point C.
3.
A-B above B,
JH>
inch.
Mark
this point
D.
4.
line at
with
line
A-D.
211
212

Measure from
5.
on
this line
i^
inches.
Mark
this point
E.
6.
7.
Measure from C 3^ of Bust measure. Mark this point F. Measure from C on line C-F J^ the Back Width measure.
;
Mark
8.
this point G.
At G square a line with line C-F. 9. From G measure on this line 1-3 Mark this point H.
10.
the Armhole measure.
Place point
on the chart at
H, continue Y2 mcn beyond H. 11. Continue line G-H above

I.
ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
12.
At
I square a line I
with
line G-I.
2 inches.
13.
14.
From From
on
this line line
measure
Mark
this point J.
on K.
C-F measure 34 the Armhole measure.
Mark
15.
this point
and K.
Mark
this
point L.
16.
17.
K square a line with line C-F. Measure from K on this line 2 inches.
At
Place point
Mark
this point
M.
18.
on the chart at the end of curve

line
E-H and
draw curve touching

19.
G-H.
curve through L.
Place point
K
G
on the chart at the point where curve
touches line
20.
G-H and draw

at
Place point Place point
21.
F on
M and draw curve through L. the chart at M and draw curve through
E-H and continued. Mark
C-F
from
so that
j22.
Find the
full
length of curve
measure
this
same
distance from J on line I-J

23.
this point
N.
Square a
line
with
line
it will
pass through
N.
24.
Measure on
less
this
is
line
line
C-F the Upper Front
measure
O.
what
Mark
this
point

25.
j-
213
Place point
on the chart at
26.
Measure down from
J^ of Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P.
27.
28.
At P square a line with line O-P. Measure from P on this line 1-6
of the
Neck measure.
Add
O.
/i inch.
Mark
this point Q.
29.
30.
31.
Draw
line.
line
from
through F.
this line the
Measure from
on
Front Length measure to
waist
32. 33.
Mark
this point
R.
At L square a line with line C-F. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure.
this
Mark
34.
point
S.
1
Measure
inch to the right and
inch to the
left of S.
Mark
35.
these points
and U.
of
Measure down from B the length
back
to 2 inches
above
knee.
36.
Mark
Mark
this point
W.
the
full
Measure from
Connect
length of front to
inches above
knee.
37. 38.
this point V.
and
W with a straight
L
line.
Draw
The The
straight line from
through
and
U and
continue
to line from
39.
V to W.
line
from
40.
line
L through U belongs to the back. from L through T belongs to the front.

THE KNICKERBOCKERS
The Knickerbockers given

Front of knickerbockers
1.
are for a
2 -year-old child.
2.
3.
4.
Draw line A-B 18^ inches long. At B square a line with line A-B. Measure on this line from B 8 inches. Mark At C square a line with line B-C.
this point C.
#0}
S'
^USSUH
f>lblA.%e

5.
6.
7.
215
Measure on
Square a
this line 16 inches.
Mark
this point
D.
line at
Measure from
D with line D-C and draw out to line A-B. D on this line % of an inch. Mark this D
on
line
point E.
8.
Measure down from

Place point
C-D
7 inches.
Mark
this
point F.
9.
C on
the chart at
F and draw
from
curve to E.
inches.
10.
Measure from
line
A-B on
line
1 Y2
Mark
this point G.
n. At
12.
square a line with line D-G.
Measure from
Place point
on
this line
% of an inch.
H and
Mark
this
point H.
13.
B on
the chart at
draw curve through
E.
14.
I.
Measure from
Square a
on
line
A-B
8 inches.
Mark
this point
15.
16.
j-
line at I
with line A-B.

this line
Measure from
Connect J and
on
iJ4 inches.
Mark
this point
17. 18.
with a straight
line
line.
Measure from J on point K.

19.
J-G
of
an
inch.
Mark
this
Place point
K on the chart at K and draw curve through I.
Back of knickerbockers 1. At B square a line with

2.
line
A-B.
Measure from B on
this line
n^ inches.
Mark
Mark
this point
L.
3. 4.
At L square a line with line B-L. At A square a line with line A-B.
meets
line
the point where
this line
5.
from L, M.
measure 5)^ inches.
From
A on line A-M
Mark
this point
N.
6.
B and
I.
Mark
this point
0.
7.
Connect
and
N with a straight line.
-$ o
'
Ki\
i c
/r
oc
7r
y> s.

8.
217
Place point
on the chart at I and hold chart so that J

curve.
touches line O-N.

9.
Draw
Mark
this point P.
Measure from
M
B
on on
line
M-L 2^
inches.
Mark
this
point Q.
10.
Measure from
line
B-L 9
inches.
Mark
this point
R.
n. Find a point
S.
half
way between Q and L. Mark
this point
12.
13.
At S square a line with line Q-L. Measure from S on this line 2^ inches. Mark
Place point
this point
T.
14.
15. 16.
Place point
Continue
C on the chart at R and draw curve to T. C on the chart at T and draw curve to Q. Mark this line N-Q beyond Q iJ4 inches.
point U.
17.
Measure down from
Q on curve Q-T
6 inches.
Mark Mark
this
point V.
18.
Measure straight out from
i}i inches.
this
point
19. 20.
W.
Connect
W and U with a straight

Q
on curve
line.
Measure from
Square a
Q-N
2 inches.
Mark this point Mark

this
X.
21.
line at
X and draw 3^ inches long. X with a straight line.

-
point Y.
22. 23.
24.
Connect
and
Measure from
X towards Q Y2 mcn
Y
with a straight
Mark
this point Z.
Connect Z and
line.
For every
size larger,
add
inch on lines B-C, B-L,
A-M,
D-G.
Add 1 Make
inch on lines B-A,

the distance from
L-M, C-D.
to I Y2 inch
more
for each size.
LESSON XLVI
HOW
TO MAKE A BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE, AND KNICKERBOCKERS
will teach
We
you how
to
Blouse, buttoned straight
make the perfectly plain Russian down the front. This same blouse
it
may have
If
plaits
down
the front and back and
may be
cut
away
in front at the neck
and be finished with a large

the plain garment
blouses.
sailor collar.
you learn
to
make
you
will
be able to follow
the length-
designs for
more elaborate
any
Lay
line
B-W on
wise fold of the goods.

if
it.
Allow a large seam on the shoulder so

fitting there will
the blouse needs
be goods enough to do
Allow seams everywhere.
Cut two
for
pieces like the front.
Allow two inches on the bottom

turned one
hem.
Sew in
a French seam the under arm seams and shoul-
der seams, or the seams
may
be stitched and
all
way
and stitched again on the outside.

i
Turn each
front in about
inch for a hem, and after turning in the raw edge stitch as near
the edge as possible.
Turn
the
bottom up two
inches,
and
after
turning in the raw edge stitch the
hem
in.
i
Lap
side.
the right front over on the left
inch.
Sew buttons on
(Cut the
the right-hand side and work buttonholes on the left-hand Finish the neck with a round turn-over collar.
collar as directed for
grown person.)
Use the
child's full sleeve

in, plait
draft for the sleeves.

into the armhole
sleeve
Instead of gathering them
them
and at the hand.

plait.
is
Begin at the middle of the

small side plaits on either
and lay a small box
Lay
side of this until the sleeve
the right size for the armhole
and
hand.
Place
Face the sleeve at the hand.

little
straps
made
of the
of the goods
on the under arm seams,

out two pieces for the
to hold a belt
made
goods or of leather.
To make
the knickerbockers
Cut
219
220
fronts,

and two
straight of the
line
B-I of the
Lay line A-B each time on the goods lengthwise. Sew line B-I of the front to back. Sew line F-C of the front to line V-R of
for the backs.
legs.
the back.
This forms the two separate

I.
Pin the two Legs
together at point
Sew
I-N
of
line
K-H
of
one front to
line
line
K-H
of the other.
Sew
line
one back to
I-N
of the other.
Face the seam on
each side of the front and put an under lap from I to
K where the
line
seam was not sewed.

it will
Turn
in lap
lap.
V-Q-U-W
half
way, so that
form a hem and under

front, or for
Fasten a pocket at
E-F
left
on the
out.
very
little
children the pocket
may
be
Sew
in the dart
X-Y-Z.
Put a
bias facing
all
about the top
of the back, also the front, just the size of 3^ the waist plus 2
inches for both the front and back, for the

1
inch at each side where
it
fastens.
band must lap over Sew a button at E on each

side.
side,
and work a buttonhole at

all
on each
Work
button-
holes
along the waist line to button on to the under waist.

of each leg
Put
hem in the bottom
Y2 i ncn wide and run
elastic in,
or gather the leg
and put on a straight band, having a buckle

If this is
sewed on the end.

about
2
done, seam B-I should be
left
open
or 2Y2 inches from the
bottom and both
sides faced.
For a boy
of 6 years or over the knickerbockers should fasten
in the front instead of at the sides.
In this case, where the
pockets are put in at the sides, sew one side of the pocket to
the front and the other to the back piece, having the seams on
the inside.
side.
Turn each seam back and

all
stitch again
on the right
Make
the facing about the top
in one piece, opening at the
front center seam.
In cutting the pattern leave a projecting
piece on the fronts at line
H-K
about
1%
inches wide.
On
the
right side turn this piece back to form a hem, after having turned
in
the
raw
edge.
it
Take a
straight piece of goods 3
inches
wide and fold
lengthwise in the center.
Turn the two raw
edges in and place the piece just where the
hem on
the right
222

stitched.
front will be
This forms a
fly for
fly
the buttonholes
under the hem.

the
Work
buttonholes in this
and catch
it
to
hem between
the buttonholes.
Do not catch
to project
through to the
outside.
Line with a straight piece of the goods the projecting
piece on the left front

holes of the right side.
and allow
it
under the button-
Place buttons on this piece to correspond
with the buttonholes.
Put a pocket on each

the top,
back about 2Y2 inches from and about half way between the side and back seams.
side of the
Make
a pointed flap over each of these pockets, and put a button

in the corner of the flap.
on the pocket and work a buttonhole
LESSON XLVn
child's pa jama suit
To make the coat, draft the same as the child's waist draft. Add to the back of the neck 34 mcn and 3^ inch at the waist line in the back. Draw the middle back line through these two points. Leave out lines L-T and L-U. Add 2 inches to the front at the middle line for lap, point W. Mark this point X. Place Measure down from 2 inches. point F on the chart at X and allow curve F-J to touch curve
>
O-Q.
Add 4
inches to the bottom of the draft below waist
line.
In
of
cutting out pattern allow seams everywhere.
Turn the edge
the goods, about the neck and
down
bias
the front, on the right side,
and cover with a fancy braid or
band
of the goods.
Allow a
hem
line
Q-R down the
Y2 inches wide about the bottom. Lap the front so that Fasten of one side comes on line Q-R of the other.
front with buttons, or with fancy frog ornaments.
of the suit is drafted just like the knicker-
The pajama part

C-B-R enough
to
bockers, but the lines T-R, O-B, and
F-C are extended below make them come to the ankles. This amount depends on the size of the child. The dart is left out in the back, and gathered into the waist band. The front should be sewed to a waist made like the child's draft, but very loose about the
waist and across the shoulders.
The back
is
fastened to a
is
band
and buttoned
to the waist.
For large boys the waist
not used.
The
left
side
seams are sewed up to the band and the pajamas are

front.
open in
A tape is fastened to
each end of the band and
tied in front.
Place buttons and buttonholes
down
the front.
223
\ Soys'
LESSON XL VIII
child's
drawers
The
}/i
draft given
is
for a child of 5 years.
For every year
in size
add \i inch
1
to front waist
measure and
leg,
inch to back waist measure,
inch to length of
and J^
inch to width of leg on front and back.
The normal waist measures

1
'
for children are as follows
year old
years old
20^
21
inches
inches
3 years old 4 years old 5 years old 6 years old

7 years old
21^2 inches
22
inches
inches
inches inches
22%
2$ 23
8 years old
9 years old 10 years old
23K 23^
24
inches
inches inches
i.
Draw
line
A-B.
2.
Find center between
A and B. Mark
this point C.
3.
At C square a
4.
5.
Mark this point C-D. From C on line C-D measure 1 inch. Mark this point E. From C on line C-A measure 9 inches. Mark this point
line
with line A-B.
F.
6.
From E on
line
C-D measure 15^
inches.
Mark
this
point G.
At G square a line with line C-D. Mark this point H. 8. Measure to the left of G %% inches. square line line H a with G-H. At 9. Mark this point 10. Measure from H on this line 3 inches.
7.
L
225
226
ii.
12. 13.

Continue
line
G-H
4 inches.
Mark
this point J.
At J square a line with line G-J. Measure on this line from J 63^ inches.
Connect
Mark
this
point
K.
14.
15.
K and I with a straight line.

F
on the chart at
I
Place point
K.
16.
Place point
F on
chart at I and draw through curve H.

line.
17. 18.
Connect
and F with a straight
Find a point half way between F and K.
Mark
this
point
L.
19.
point
20.
On M.
this line
measure
% of an inch
from L.
Mark
this
Place point
D D
on the chart at
K.
21.
Place point
on the chart at

this
F.
This finishes the front of the drawers.

22.
Measure from C on
line
C-B
7^ inches. Mark
point
N.
23.
24.
At N square a line with line C-B. Measure from N on this line 1^2
inches.
Mark
this
point O.
25.
From
G measure
to the right
&% inches. Mark this point

G-P.
P.
26. 27.
At P square a
line
with
line
From P on
Continue
this line
measure 3 inches.
inches.
Mark
this
point
Q28. 29.
line
G-P 4
Mark
this
point R.
At
S.
square a line with line G-R.
30.
From
measure on
this line
6}4 inches.
Mark
this
point
31.
Connect S and
Place point
with a straight
the chart at
line.
32.
S.
F on
Child
r
3)ywB
s.
228

Place point
33.
F on
the chart at
P.
34.
35.
Connect S and
with a straight
line.
Find a point half way between S and 0.
Mark
this
point
T.
36.
37.
At
square a line with S-0.
Measure from
Place point
38.
Y2 inch. Mark this point U. on the chart at S and draw curve through
this line
T on
U.
39.
Place point
C on
the chart at
U and draw
curve through
0.
This finishes the draft of the drawers.

In cutting patterns allow seams everywhere.
LESSON XLIX
HOW
For
a
TO MAKE LITTLE GIRLS

dress the draft given
'
CLOTHING
little girl's
may be used in a variety

line,
of ways.
For the dress with the

the draft just as
it is.
skirt
gathered on at the waist
use
Cut a pattern by
tracing off on another
piece of paper, allowing seams everywhere,
down
all
the back on each side for
and about ij^ inches buttons and buttonholes. Put
tucks in the goods before laying on the pattern.
Any trimming;
like insertion of lace or
embroidery
may
be laid on after the
garment
put
is cut,
but this should be planned for before tucks are
in, so
that the tucks will

is
come
off
just
where they are wanted.
After the waist

to
cut out, cut
lengths enough for the skirt
make
is
it
the desired fullness about the bottom.

size
(This will the breadth
depend on the
which
to
and age
of the child.)
skirt,
From
be used for the front of the
gore off about three
inches, slanting out to the selvage.
For the other breadths use

Allow a hem two or three
the goods straight on both edges.

inches wide.
Gather
this skirt to the waist at the waist line,
placing
more
fullness in the
back than in
front.
belt of in-
sertion of lace or embroidery

If the dress is to
be
may be used. Mother Hubbard,
use just the neck and
shoulder part of the draft for a yoke and gather the skirt on to
the yoke.
Use the straight breadths, putting more

in front.
If
fullness in
the back than
you wish
to
make
line
a one-piece dress
with box plaits down the front and back, trace the front and
back on another piece

from
of paper.
Extend
Q-R
the length the skirt should be.

the
Extend
L-T down
same length but
slant
them out
down L-U and enough to make

straight
lines
the skirt the desired fullness.
A
229
dress of this kind should not

have a very
full skirt.
231
Extend
line
all
Cut the pattern
out, allowing
goods lengthwise so that one
will
A-B down the same distance. seams. Lay box plaits in the come in the middle front, and
line at
one about the middle of the shoulder

back, one should be
side
each
side.
In the
down
the middle of the back and one each

line.
about the middle of the shoulder

to
These
plaits should
match on
each other at the shoulder.

line
Cut an opening under

belt through.
each plait at the waist
and run a
Either a
leather belt or one of the goods

Child's Blouse Waist.
slant the middle
may
1
be used.
the child's blouse waist,
line.
To make
out
back
1
line
inch at the waist

line.
Slant
the front line out
inch at the waist
Draw
straight line
from
line
through
for the
back under arm and draw a straight

under arm of the
front.
from
through
for the
Add 2^
in the
inches to the bottom of the waist.
Put a narrow hem
bottom aud run an

Little Girl's
elastic in.
Under
Clothing.
For the
little girl's
under waist
this
same
draft
may
be used.
Face the bottom with a bias

the
facing about 1^2 inches wide and

facing
1
armholes with a bias
inch wide.
Make
side.
hem down
each side of the back and

Place the buttonholes
to but-
work buttonholes and sew on buttons.
on
the right
hand
Sew buttons about the bottom
ton the waist on.

Little Girl's Skirt.
Make
the skirt straight, and not quite
as
full as
the dress skirt.
Place a
hem
in the
bottom about ij^

inches
inches wide and a straight band at the waist line about ij^
inches wide.
Leave the
skirt
open about
7 or 8
down
the
back and hem the
left side
with a
hem
% inch wide and the right

hem
over on the narrow
to
side with a narrow hem.
Lap
the wide
one at the bottom and

tearing down.
stitch across the
bottom
keep
it
from
Work
is
buttonholes in the waist band to match

If desired the skirt
the buttons on the waist.

waist, but this
may be sewed to the
not desirable, as one often wishes to change one

other.
of the garments
and not the
Child's Drawers.
Cut two
pieces like the draft.
Sew curve
233.
K-I-H to curve S-Q-P. Sew line F-M-K of one piece to the same line of the other. Slash both pieces down from E about 6
inches.
Face
this slash
with a continuous facing.
Leave the
Gather
front side out for an under lap and turn the other back.
the waist line of the back to a straight band
inches longer than
Y2 the waist measure and the back to a straight

length.
ished.
band the same
This band should be about ij^ inches wide when finSew a button to each end of the front band and work a
buttonhole in each end of the back band.

in the middle at the
Work
buttonholes
back and front
to
button on the waist.
Child's Night-gown.
perfectly plain
Use the
child's waist draft.

it is,
For a
gown
use the draft as
leaving out lines

to
L-U
and L-T.
fullness
Draw
lines slanting
out from
make
the desired
about the bottom, according to the

front
size of the child.
Cut both the back and
on a
fold of the goods lengthwise.
Cut the
front open on the center front line to about 4 or 5 inches

line.
below the waist

very narrow
Hem
left
the left side of the opening with
hem and
the right side with an inch- wide hem.
Lay
Face
the right side over on the
and
stitch across the

little
bottom.
it.
the neck with a bias facing and sew a

sleeves at the
edge to
full
Trim the
hand the same way.

about the neck
Use the
sleeve draft.
Put a hem
in the
full
bottom about ij^ inches wide.

if
The gown
this allow 2
may
be
made
desired.
For
inches on the back and 3 on the front.
Gather about the neck
and then
face as in the plain gown.
9J
to
LESSON L
infant's first outfit
The Pinning
i.
Blanket.
For the
skirt,
Draw
Draw
line
A-B
25 inches long.
line
2.
At A, square a
with line A-B.
3. 4.
5.
5 inches long.
Mark
/i inch.
x
this point C.
Measure up from
Place point
-
Mark
this point
D.
on the chart at
A and
draw curve through
D.
6.
7.
At B square a
line
with line A-B.

Measure from B on
Connect
Mark
this point
E.
8. 9.
and
with a straight
line.
Measure from
on
B.
line.
Mark
10.
this point F.
D-E the same distance as A to Connect B and F with a slightly curved

line
Draw
line
G-H
25 inches long.
n. At G square a line with line G-H. Mark this point 12. Measure from G 7J/2 inches. inches. Mark 13. Measure up from I ij^
j14.
I.
this
point
At

this point
G-H and draw 16^
inches
long.
15. 16.
Mark
K.
Connect J and K with a straight line. Measure down from J the same distance as from
this point L.
to
H.
Mark
17. 18.
Connect
L and
H with a curved line.

on the chart at
235
Place point
and draw curve to
J.
236
THE WAIST-
19. 20.
Draw
At
line
M-N
inches long.
long..
M square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches
Mark
21. 22.
this point O.
Measure up from O, Y2 inch. Mark this point P. Measure from on line M-O, 7^ inches. Mark
this
point Q.
23.
Place point
C on
the chart at
P and draw
curve through
Q24.
At
N square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches long.

R.
S.
Mark
25. 26.
this point
Measure down from R, Y2 inch. Mark this point Measure from N, 3 inches. Mark this point T.
Place point
27.
T.
28.
Measure
to the left of Q, 3 inches.
Mark
this
point
U.
29.
At
O-Q and draw
5 inches long.
Mark
30.
this point V.
Place point
on the chart at
and draw curve
to
V.
31.
Continue
line
Q-V above
line
1^2 inches.
Mark
this point
W.
32.
At
W square a
X.
with
line
Q-W. Draw 1 J^ inches
long.
Mark
33.
this point
Measure
to the left of U, 2 inches.
Mark
this point
Y.
34.
Place point
F on
the chart at
X.
35.
and Q.
Mark
this
point Z.
36.
With Z
as a center
and Z-U as a radius connect
and
with a curve.
237
The pinning blanket

Cut two
the two backs
is
made
of white flannel.
pieces for the fronts
and two
line
for the backs.

to line
Join
at line J-L.
Join
G-H
D-F.
These
seams should be pressed open and cat-stitched on the right

side with white
silk.
Put a hem ij^ inches wide down the fronts and about the
bottom.
Baste the
hem
on a
in
and
cat-stitch
it
on the right side
with
silk,
catching through so as to fasten the
hem
in.
Cut the
pieces, as
waist with line
M-N
fold of the goods.
Cut two
the waist
is
made
double.
Stitch the two pieces together all
about the top and ends. Turn and baste the edges together so as
to
make a
nice
smooth edge.
Stitch again all around,
and turn
in the
two lower edges.
Slip the top edge of the skirt part in
between these edges, having point J come at N. Stitch across on the. machine on the right side. Work a buttonhole in the end
of the shoulder strap,
and place buttons as indicated on
draft.
The waist portion

blanket.
is
made almost
line
like the waist of the
pinning
In this waist
N-R
is
used for the bottom and line
M-0
point
is
for the top.
Measure out
to the left of
N ^ inch.
Place
on the chart at
and draw curve through M.

There must be a seam
This
the front line of the skirt waist.

for the pinning blanket.
This part was used in the

in this waist
back
as
it is
a curve.
Make
the waist just as you did the other except

fine muslin.
that
it will
be made of
Make
the skirt portion straight of the goods,
making each
hreadth 26 inches long.
The
skirt should
measure
1%
yards
about the bottom.
Put a hem
in the
bottom i}4 inches wide, and
open the
skirt
down
the back 4 inches.
Sew
to the waist as in
the other case, placing the gathers between the two parts of the
waist.
Put a hem
% of an inch down both sides of the back, and

Lap
at the
down
the skirt opening.
bottom as directed
for
other garments.
239
THE INFANT
S SLIP
OR NIGHT-GOWN
Back
1.
of
gown
line
A-B 36
inches long.
line
Draw
From
2.
At A, square a
with
line
A-B.
3.
A measure
on
this line
4% inches. Mark
Mark
this point
this point
C.
4.
5.
Measure up from Measure
Jk
inch.
D.
to the right of
A 1% inches. Mark this point E.
6.
7.
At E, square a line with line A-C. Measure from E on this line inch.
Mark
this point F.
8.
Place point
K on the chart at F,
A
on
line
and draw curve

line.
to D.
9.
Connect F and C with a straight
10.
Measure down from
A-B
3 inches.
Mark
this
point G.
11.
12.
At
G square
a line with line A-B.
Measure from
Measure
G on
this line 6 inches.
13. 14.
to the left of
H % inch.
A-B.
Mark this point H. Mark this point I.

curve to
I.
Place point J on the chart at Continue curve to H.

15. 16.
j17.
C and draw
Square a
line at B,
with
line
Measure from B on
Connect
Mark
this point
18.
Measure from
Connect
H and J with a straight line. H on line H-J 32 inches.

B and
Mark
this point
K.
19.
K with a slight curve.
Front of gown
1.
inches long.
Draw
At
line
A-B 36
2.
3.
Measure from
on
this line
&/i inches.
Mark
this point
C.
4.
At C square a
line
with line A-C.
Ih}*hf s
Si
or Niqhhfovrr*.

5. 6.
7.
241
Measure from C on
Measure
this line, 3^2 inch.
to the right of C, 3 inches.
Mark Mark
this
point D.
this point
E.
At E
square a line with line A-C.
8.
Measure from
Connect
on
this line,
1%
inches.
Mark
this point
F.
9.
F and
with a straight
line.
10.
11
Measure
to the right of
D,
inch.
Mark
this point
G.
Place point
K on the chart at G and draw
curve through
F.
12.
Measure down from
A on line A-B, 2^ inches. Mark this
point H.
13. 14.
I.
At
Measure from
H square a line with line A-B. H on this line, j% inches.

to the right of
I,
Mark Mark
this point
15.
j-
Measure
ij^ inches.
this
point
and draw curve to J. Place point J on the chart at on the chart at J and draw curve to I. 17. Place point 18. At B square a line with line A-B.
16.
19.
Measure from B on
Connect Connect
this line, 21 inches.
Mark
this
point
K.
20.
K and
I
with a straight
line.
21. 22.
Measure from
on
this line, 32 inches.
Point L.
L and
with a slight curve.
Infant's sleeve
1.
Mark
this point
2.
3.
Draw line A-B 5^ inches long. At B square a line with line A-B. Measure from B on this line 10 inches.
C.
4.
5.
Measure from B Yl inch. Mark this point D. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through
A.
6.
and C.
Mark
this point
E.
I"n}a-hi-s
Si ee
ve.

7.
24
Square a
line at
with
line
D-C.
8.
9.
From E on
Place point
this line,
measure
Y inch.
Mark
this point F.
10.
Place point
D on the chart at F and draw curve through D. D on the chart at F and draw curve through
C.
11.
At
12.
Measure from
A on this line io^ inches. Mark this point
G.
13.
At
square a line with line A-G.
14.
15
Measure from
Place point
G on
this line
Y2 inch.
Mark
this point
H.
D on the chart at C and draw curve through H.

G3
inches.
16.
17. 18. 19. j-
Measure
to the left of
Mark
this point
I.
At
I,
square a line with line A-G.

I
Measure from
Place point
on
this line,
inch.
Point
J.
F on
the chart at
H and draw curve

A and I. Mark
through.
20.
this point
K.
21. 22.
At
Measure on
Place point
K square a line with line A-G. this line from K 3 inches.
Mark
this point
L.
23.
24.
N on the chart at L and draw curve through A. Place point N on the chart at L and draw curve through J.
HOW
TO MAKE THE SLIP OR NIGHT-GOWN
Cut the middle back and middle front

fold of the goods.
lines
on the lengthwise
in a
Sew up
the under
arm seams
1
very narrow
French seam.
Put a hem
in the bottom,
inch wide for the
night-gown, and run a tape in for a draw string.
Sew the shoulders in a narrow French seam. Slash the front down 14 inches and hem as in the child's gown. Turn the neck down a small seam and cover with finishing braid. Sew to the edge of this a narrow lace edge. Gather the sleeves at the hand and finish
with the finishing braid and edge.
244

slip
For the
put a three inch
hem
in the
bottom, and do not
use the draw string.

finished.
Sew
in
the sleeve
and the garment
is
Trace
slip.
off
a yoke of any desired shape, using the draft for the
Add
3 inches to the center front
and
3 inches to the center
back
it
for gathers.
may have
Make wide hem

The
dress
the dress
in the
when
finished 36 inches long;

ruffle 3
bottom or a
inches wide
on the bottom.
in fullness.
ruffle
should be ij^ the width of the skirt
The
and
lace or embroidery.
may be as fancy as you wish, using tucks Do not use ruffles about the neck or
measure about
2
sleeves.
The
skirt of the dress should
3-8
yards about the bottom.
Use the sleeve draft given.
LESSON LI
HOW
There
TO MAKE USE OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE
are three
ways
in
which you can turn your knowledge
into money.
Draft patterns for others, go out by the day to sew,

If
or open an establishment of your own.
you do the
latter
you
can easily combine the second with
it.
To open an
certain
establishment of your own, you
may
set aside
rooms
in
in
your own home
for
your work, or you
may open
In
rooms
some convenient place

latter
is
in the
down town
The
district.
one way the
best.
You can
get completely
away from
your work when working hours are over.

is greater.
expense, however,
For your work you should have three rooms.

a fitting-room, and a workroom.
comfortable, and in good taste.
A waiting-room,
The first should be small but The second may be small, but
possible, a mirror
light,
should have a good light and,

to the floor.
if
coming nearly
The workroom should be

all
In
this
room should be kept

plan
working
utensils.
warm and large. You should
have
in this
room a gas plate or small stove

is
for heating flat-irons.
A good
room
them.
to tack a large piece of
muslin on the wall in this
to pin patterns on.
This
will
be found better than to fold

If possible
Keep
in.
all
patterns of regular patrons.
have put
a closet
off of this
room
to
hang your
finished
and
partly finished
work
all
Have two
or three
wooden boxes
(cigar boxes) to
the
little
utensils in, such as pencils, tracing- wheels, tracing-
chalk, etc.
Always keep your chart where
it will
not get broken.
Never show the gowns you make to any one but the
son for whom they are made.
will lose
per-
It
is
not professional.
are ready to
You
open
your patrons
if
you
do.
245
When you
246

all
your establishment, send to
your friends your
calling-card,,
upon which you have neatly written the word Dressmaking.
Keep your sewing-room

sleeves,
as orderly as possible.
If
you need
Give one
help, train a person to each part of the business.
one
skirts,
one waists,
etc.
it
You must keep
a book for your accounts, and put in
every-
thing you furnish for your patrons, and the cost of each article.
Do
not purchase any expensive material for a customer without

first
having
had them make a deposit with you

Send a
bill
of at least
the cost of the article.
with every piece of work you

bill.
send out.
If this is
not paid in one month send another
Keep on sending them each month until paid. In figuring the cost of a gown be sure to get in every item, and be sure not to
forget to
add a
profit
if
you are
to furnish the material.
Go
to
your dry goods merchant the

discount.
first
thing and get a dressmaker's

this discount
:
Never give a customer

will take it
if
you do the
merchant
from you.
THE END.
AW,
1913

Practical Sewing D 00 All I

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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

Sewing and Dressmaking

SARA MAY ALLINGTON

ELIZABETH CLEVES BANKS

BOSTON ESTES & COMPANY

By Dana Estes & Company.

THE COLONIAL PKESS SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U.

Stitches used in Sewing and Dressmaking

Basting Even Basting Uneven Basting Slanting or Padding Stitch

Hemming Cat - stitching French Knots

Planning the Gown

The Chart with which the Drafting

Take Measures Waist Measure Bust Measure

15. 16. 17.

LESSON LESSON LESSON

Drafting the Shirt - waist

Drafting the Shirt-waist Sleeve

Drafting the Blouse

to Cut the Sailor Collar, or any Large Collar

to Draft the Kimono Waist

The Making and Finishing of the Shirt-waist

Drafting the Tight Waist with Back Forms

Drafting the Waist without Back Forms

Drafting the Waist with French Forms

to Cut, Fit, and

Make the Waist

Drafting the Coat or Lining Sleeve

piece Tight Sleeve

The Flowing Sleeve

Drafting the Leg

Drafting the Circular Skirt

Drafting the Three

gored Circular Skirt

Drafting the Seven

Drafting the Nine

Drafting the Fifteen

The Full Plaited

made from the Fifteen

Petticoats Women's Muslin Underwear The Petticoat with a Yoke

The Night - gown

The Chemise The Chemise without Gathers

Seamless Corset Cover made from the Shirt

Women's Circular Drawers

To Make the Different

to Cut, Make, and Finish the Circular

Drafting the Princess

Drafting the Single

To Form Skirt of Coat To Draft the Collar

163 166 169

The Slightly Fitted Coat To Draft the Collar

Finish the Tailored Coat

to Cut, and Finish the Rompers

To Draft the Different

Boy's Russian Blouse Suit

The Blouse The Knickerbockers

a Boy's Russian Blouse, and Knickerbockers

Child's Pajama Suit

Infant's First Outfit

The Pinning Blanket

235 235 235 236

command some knowledge