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Lonely Planet Publications
Britain
HIGHLIGHTS
Edinburgh Festival Laugh yourself silly with a gaggle of high-energy comedy shows ( p223 )
Tate Modern This temple of contemporary art always raises an eyebrow or two ( p165 )
Brightons North Laine area These back streets offer the perfect place to uncover vintage
skater gear ( p178 )
Best journey The short, sweet train trundle from St Erth to St Ives ( p184 )
Off-the-beaten track Hit the windswept vistas of the hikers paradise known as the Peak
District National Park ( p192 )
FAST FACTS
Area 93,000 sq miles (240,000 sq km;
around the size of New Zealand)
ATMs (known as cashpoints) Widespread
outside banks and at supermarkets
Budget 30-50 per day
Capital London
Country code %44
Famous for tea, football, Royal Family
Head of State Queen Elizabeth II
Languages English, Gaelic, Welsh
Money UK pound (); A$1 = 0.40, CA$1
= 0.46, 1 =0.68, 100 = 0.45, NZ$1 =
0.35, US$1 =0.78
Population 60 million
Time GMT/UTC + 0
Visas None required for most visitors for
stays up to six months
TRAVEL HINTS
Check out restaurant lunch specials and bar happy hours, and buy food, beer and wine at
supermarkets.
ROAMING BRITAIN
Head west from London across southern England via historic Salisbury, Glastonbury and Bath
before dropping into Bristol for some nightlife fun.
First-time visitors to Western Europes third most populous nation often arrive expecting
warm beer, double-decker buses and red telephone boxes on every street. Instead they discover
a country that has dramatically moved on from such clichs.
But just because the classic Routemaster double-deckers are disappearing and the telephone
boxes have taken on a steely-grey hue (and room-temperature beer can still be found if you
find the wrong pub), it doesnt mean that Britain has abandoned the qualities that still make
it great for travellers.
Cosmopolitan London remains one of the worlds most exciting cities, with rising post-
industrial challengers like Manchester, Glasgow and Cardiff jostling for the mantle of Britains
second most vibrant metropolis. For nature-huggers, recommended areas of jaw-dropping
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HISTORY
Populated by bands of hairy hunter-gatherers
for centuries, Britain was shaken from its
stupor around 4000 BC when modern Eu-
ropeans, wielding new-fangled stone tools,
arrived to case the joint. Evidence of this pe-
riod includes the mysterious structures at
Stonehenge ( p182 ), Avebury ( p182 ) and the
Orkney Islands ( p215 ).
Even more numerous are the ruins from
Britains colourful Roman era, which began
after the AD 43 invasion. The Romans met
little resistance in England and Wales, but
Scotland proved a tougher nut to crack; by the
year 122 the occupiers had built a northern
fortification called Hadrians Wall to mark
the barbarian exclusion zone.
The Romans departure in 410 sparked
the Dark Ages, a period still poorly under-
stood by historians. Local tribes slowly
began carving out larger territories during
this era and, by the end of the first millen-
nium, those ruled by the Anglo-Saxons were
calling themselves the English, while the
Welsh and Scots were also becoming more
distinct regions.
But the British Isles were always ripe for
invasion and both the Danes and the Nor-
wegian Vikings began occupying large areas
of Scotland and England. In 1066 William,
Duke of Normandy, arrived from France and
acquired his nickname the Conqueror by
defeating his rival Harold on the south coast.
The Battle of Hastings launched a period of
Norman rule that became as influential as that
of the Romans.
The ensuing centuries saw rule from Lon-
don spreading across England, Wales and the
Scottish lowlands, but outlying Scottish regions
remained a law unto themselves, culminating
in a full-scale English invasion in 1296. The
resulting treaty recognised Robert the Bruce
as king of an independent Scotland. Centuries
of ever-diminishing pockets of Welsh rebel-
lion culminated in the Acts of Union, signed
between 1536 and 1543, which saw Wales as-
similated under English jurisdiction.
By the 16th century, Scotland was strongly
nationalistic with close links to Europe and a
widespread hatred of the English. But when
Englands Queen Elizabeth I died childless
in 1603, Mary Stuarts son united the crowns
of Scotland and England for the first time,
becoming James I of England and James VI
of Scotland. In 1707 England persuaded the
Scottish Parliament to agree to a formal union
under a single parliament. After a rebellion
was buried at the Battle of Culloden (1746),
the English decided to destroy the trouble-
some clans, prohibiting Highland dress and
clearing ancient villages to make way for
sheep grazing.
Religious strife had long been an issue
in Britain the nation had split from the
Catholic Church in 1536 when King Henry
VIII wanted to divorce his first wife, and
religious differences fuelled a bitter civil war
in 1642, with Parliament rising and ultimately
executing King Charles I. The wars instiga-
tor, Oliver Cromwell, died in 1658, and the
monarchy was restored in 1660.
During the 18th century, the new role of
British prime minister assumed increasing
power while the monarchy, soon to be repre-
sented by Queen Victoria, sank into a largely
ceremonial role. By the 19th century, Brit-
ain was well placed to launch an Industrial
Revolution that tied machine innovation to
population explosion. Many Scots became
global capitalist-barons at this time.
Britains 20th century was a period of war
and end-of-empire, followed by cultural and
economic resurgence. Two world wars saw
the nation brought almost to its knees, al-
though many recall the 1940 Battle of Britain,
when the nation resisted a three-month air
attack, as its finest hour. Many British do-
minions were restored to independence after
the war and the nations industries began to
decline.
But by the 1990s Britain had bounced back
and it entered the new millennium with a
dominant economy. Its role on the world
stage was reflected by its relationship with the
beauty include the desolate Devon moors, the dramatic landscapes of the Lake District and the
craggy Scottish Highlands. And for those who like easy access to history, almost every town
has an ancient market square and clutch of centuries-old churches.
Whether its history, nature or contemporary culture that attracts you to Britains shores, its
clear that leaving your preconceptions at the border is essential. This diverse yet easily travelled
land is ideal for off-the-beaten-path wandering. And if you happen to spot a double-decker bus
along the way, dont forget to take a photo.
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EDINBURGH Glasgow
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BRITAIN
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l one l y pl a ne t . c om TRANSPORT Get t i ng Ther e & Away
USA and participation in military campaigns
in Afghanistan and Iraq. Echoing a history of
protest, millions took to the streets to demon-
strate against the nations involvement. In July
2005 terrorist bombs killed dozens on public
transit in London, a direct reaction to Britains
support for the War on Terror.
With the countrys Labour Prime Minister
Tony Blair reaching the end of his final term
in office, Britains political future is enter-
ing a period of uncertainty. Dour Gordon
Brown is preparing to take over and square-
off against a slowly regrouping Conservative
Party that is itching to repeat its 1980s hold
on power.

THE CULTURE
With a population of 60 million, Britain is one
of the worlds most densely populated nations.
Despite this, there are myriad distinct regional
identities: its common to travel less than 50
miles and find a completely different accent
with its own special vocabulary. Southerners
will tell you they dont understand a word
uttered by the Geordies, while northerners
will happily tease the Welsh over the way
they speak. For the most part, this regional
rivalry is fairly friendly although its wise to
avoid calling someone English if they come
from Scotland or Wales. Indeed, the inde-
pendent-minded Scots and Welsh often view
themselves as separate races.

RELIGION
In the nations most recent census, 72% of
Brits identified themselves as Christians, with
Muslims being the second biggest group at
3%. The remaining largest faiths were Hindus,
Sikhs, Jews and Buddhists. Around 16% said
they had no religion a category that included
agnostics, atheists, heathens and those who
claimed a spiritual affiliation with the Jedis
of Star Wars fame.
ARTS
Britain has a colourful and important cultural
history that stretches for centuries. While
theatre and literature are at the forefront
of these historic achievements, the UKs
latter-day popular culture and conceptual art
movements continue to resonate throughout
the world.
Travelling in the footsteps of storied English,
Scottish or Welsh writers can be the highlight
of any trip to Britain. An amble through the
cobbled streets of Canterbury ( p176 ) recalls
Chaucers ribald comedy, while a stroll in
the Scottish glens ( p213 ) should easily evoke
the spirit of Robbie Burns. Spirits of a differ-
ent variety should be sampled in the pubs of
Wales, some of which inspired the poetry of
Dylan Thomas.
For most lit-lovers, a visit to Stratford-
upon-Avon ( p190 ) is a must. Not only is this
the historic hometown of Western litera-
tures greatest playwright, its also the world
centre of Shakespeare performance and the
home of the renowned Royal Shakespeare
Company.
British musicians enjoy huge record sales
around the world, with entertainment jugger-
nauts like the Rolling Stones, Elton John and
Paul McCartney routinely topping lists of
highest-grossing concert tours. Back home,
the reality is much edgier. Although Cold-
play are in danger of becoming ubiquitous,
bands like Franz Ferdinand, Kaiser Chiefs
and British Sea Power continue to attract the
indie crowd, while talented youngsters like
Sheffields Arctic Monkeys can still burst on
the scene as if they were born with 50 great
songs ready to play.
Britains contribution to contemporary art
has undergone a transformation in recent
years, with new galleries and public instal-
lations creating feverish debate. While cities
like Glasgow, Manchester and London house
some of Europes finest galleries, exciting new
developments like the capitals Tate Mod-
ern ( p165 ) and Newcastles Baltic arts centre
( p202 00) have become popular showcases for
the latest artistic movements.
ENVIRONMENT
At less than 600 miles (966km) from north
to south and under 300 miles (483km) at its
widest point, Britain is roughly the same size
as New Zealand or half the size of France.
Theres a huge array of landscapes, includ-
ing the craggy Snowdonia mountains in
northwest Wales ( p220 ), the sheep-strewn
moorlands of Devon ( p182 ) and the bar-
ren, windswept islands off western Scotland
( p214 ).
Mostly famous for being run over on
roads, hedgehogs are commonly seen
throughout Britain, even in urban settings
where they scavenge for food at night. An-
other night-time scavenger is the red fox.
While deer occupy large estates, particularly
in the north, youre much more likely to
see a grey squirrel. This ubiquitous tree-
hopper may look cute but it was originally
an interloper from North America and it has
pushed the smaller, indigenous red squirrel
closer to extinction.
Farming methods adopted after WWII
saw the swift demolition of much of Britains
archetypal patchwork landscape, replacing
stone walls, ancient wetlands and centuries-
old hedgerows with vast, open fields. These
hedgerows knotty shrubs and bushes that
sheltered some of Britains most vulnerable
flowers, insects and small mammals have
almost completelty disappeared in some re-
gions, taking their rare flora and fauna with
them.
TRANSPORT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Britain is one of the most hectic airline hubs
in Europe, with London, Manchester and
Glasgow in particular receiving frequent
flights from around the world. A plethora
of regional airports has also sprung up,
servicing routes from Europe and beyond.
Consider some of these as alternatives to the
main airports: they may be cheaper and more
convenient, depending on where you plan to
stay in Britain.
The following are among the key interna-
tional airports:
Birmingham (code BHM; %0870 733 5511; www
.bhx.co.uk)
Bristol (code BRS; %0870 121 2747; www.bristol
airport.co.uk)
Cardiff (code CWL; %01446-711111; www.cwlfly.com)
Edinburgh (code EDI; %0870 040 0007; www
.edinburghairport.com)
Glasgow (code GLA; %0870 040 0008; www.glasgow
airport.com)
Liverpool (code LPL; %0870 129 8484; www.liverpool
johnlennonairport.com)
London Gatwick (code LGW; %0870 000 2468; www
.gatwickairport.com)
London Heathrow (code LHR; %0870 000 0123;
www.heathrowairport.com)
London Luton (code LTN; %01582-405100; www
.london-luton.co.uk)
READING UP
For an insight into Britains history and
psychology try these: A History of Britain
Volumes 13 (Simon Schama, 20002003),
Medieval Lives (Terry Jones, 2004), London:
The Biography (Peter Ackroyd, 2000), Watch-
ing the English: The Hidden Rules of English
Social Behaviour (Kate Fox, 2004), English: A
Portrait of a People (Jeremy Paxman, 2002),
Trainspotting (Irvine Welsh, 1993) and The
Football Factory (John King, 1996). For some
entertaining travel writing, check out Notes
from a Small Island (Bill Bryson, 1996), The
Angry Island (AA Gill, 2006) and Bollocks to
Alton Towers (Jason Hazely et al, 2005).
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION
While Hollywood relies on clever set construction to make its history-themed movies, filmmak-
ers in Britain can simply step outside. From untouched rolling vistas and dark London streets
to castles, cathedrals and villages that have remained unchanged for centuries, the country is a
giant outdoor movie set waiting to happen. For visitors, this means the fun of identifying familiar
or not-so-familiar backdrops from favourite movies.
Among recent epics, the latest version of Pride and Prejudice brought Keira Knightley to the
windswept vistas and handsome country houses of Lincolnshire, Derbyshire and the Peak District
( p192 ), while the 2006 movie version of The Da Vinci Code scoured the country for historic sites.
Among its real-life sets some of them standing in for other locations named in the book
were Winchester Cathedral ( p181 ), the National Gallery ( p161 ) and the storys climatic Rosslyn
Chapel 6 miles outside Edinburgh.
Not surprisingly, London remains Englands movie location capital, with hundreds of films shot
in and around the city. Celebrated movies filmed here include Elizabeth (Tower of London), Notting
Hill (have a guess), Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels (Staples Market and Borough Market), The
Madness of King George (St Pauls Cathedral and Royal Naval College, Greenwich) and Shakespeare
in Love (Marble Hill House and the Thames near Barnes). Also check out 28 Days Later: it includes
some incredibly eerie scenes of empty London streets.
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London Stansted (code STN; %0870 000 0303 www
.stanstedairport.com)
Manchester (code MAN; %0161-489 3000; www
.manchesterairport.co.uk)
Some of the busiest airlines flying to and from
Britain:
Aer Lingus (code EI; %0845 876 5000; www.flyaerlingus
.com)
Air Canada (code AC; %0871 220 1111; www.aircanada
.com)
Air France (code AF; %0870 142 4343; www.airfrance
.com)
American Airlines (code AA; %0845 778 9789;
www.aa.com)
British Airways (code BA; %0870 850 9850; www
.ba.com)
British Midland/BMI (code BD; %0870 607 0555;
www.flybmi.com)
easyJet (code EZY; %0870 600 0000; www.easyjet.com)
KLM (code KLM; %0870 507 4074; www.klm.com)
Lufthansa (code LH; %0870 833 7747; www
.lufthansa.com)
Qantas (code QF; %0845 774 7767; www.qantas.com.au)
Ryanair (code FR; %0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com)
Virgin Atlantic (code VS; %0870 574 7747; www
.virgin-atlantic.com)
Boat
Theres a bewildering array of marine services
linking Britain and Europe, and prices can
change rapidly to reflect the intense competi-
tion. Shop around for bargains via operators
websites and keep an eye on national news-
papers for summer promotions. The shortest
crossing from mainland Europe is Calais to
Dover on the English south coast. Contact op-
erators for additional routes and information.
BELGIUM
Superfast Ferries (%0870 234 0870; www.superfast.com)
operates between Zeebrugge and Rosyth near
Edinburgh (from 99, 17 hours, daily).
FRANCE
P&O (%08702424999; www.poferries.com) operates be-
tween Calais and Dover (from 18, 75 minutes,
every 45 minutes).
Brittany Ferries (%0870 366 5333; www.brittany
ferries.co.uk) operates between Cherbourg and
Portsmouth (29, six to nine hours, daily).
IRELAND
Stena Line (%0870 570 7070; www.stenaline.com) oper-
ates between Rosslare and Fishguard, south
Wales (from 65, 1 to three hours, twice
daily).
THE NETHERLANDS
DFDS Seaways (%0870 252 0524; www.dfds.co.uk) op-
erates between Amsterdam and Newcastle
(from 110, 15 hours, daily).
SPAIN
Brittany Ferries (%0870 366 5333; www.brittanyferries
.co.uk) operates between Santander and Ply-
mouth (from 48, 24 hours, twice weekly).
SWEDEN
DFDS Seaways (%0870 252 0524; www.dfds.co.uk) op-
erates between Gothenburg and Newcastle
(from 105, 17 hours, twice weekly).
Bus
Servicing a vast network of long-distance
routes, Eurolines (%0870 514 3219; www.eurolines.com;
52 Grosvenor Gardens, Victoria, London) is an umbrella
company linking 32 regional bus/coach oper-
ators. Popular direct daily services to London
Victoria arrive from Amsterdam (from 10,
12 hours, three daily), Paris (from 15, nine
hours, four daily) and Dublin (from 24, 12
hours, two daily). There are also Eurolines
services to cities outside London. You can
book tickets online, through any UK Na-
tional Express office or at many larger travel
agencies.
Car & Motorcycle
Visitors can bring cars or motorbikes to
Britain from Europe via ferry services or the
Channel Tunnel. See left for ferry routes and
p156 for tips on driving in Britain.
Train
High-speed Eurostar (%0870 518 6186; www.eurostar
.com) passenger trains arrive in London from
Paris (from 59, three hours) and Brussels
(from 59, 2 hours) via the Channel Tunnel
throughout the day. There are also regular di-
rect services from Lille, Avignon and Disney-
land Paris, with additional connections from
across Europe. Youth discounts are available
to travellers under 26. In 2007 Eurostar ser-
vices switched from the old London Waterloo
terminus to the swanky new London St Pan-
cras International terminal.
An alternative is the vehicle train service
operated by Eurotunnel (%0870 535 3535; www
.eurotunnel.com). These trains carry cars and their
passengers through the Channel Tunnel be-
tween Folkestone in the UK and Calais in
France. Trains depart up to four times an hour
in each direction between 6am and 10pm, and
every hour from 10pm to 6am. A car plus
passengers can cost up to 220 but advertised
promotions can bring this down to 39. The
journey takes 35 minutes.
GETTING AROUND
Buses, trains and cheap airlines form a
dense transportation network across much
of Britain, but these services dwindle to al-
most nothing in remote areas where popula-
tions are relatively low. With some creative
thinking, visitors can get almost anywhere
especially if they deploy a bike or the odd
hiking trail. Contact Traveline (%0870 608
2608; www.traveline.org.uk) for inform ation on
local and regional bus and train options
or visit Transport Direct (www.transportdirect
.info) for longer journeys the site has car route
maps and a useful tool for comparing flight,
bus and train options between cities.

Air
No-frills airlines offer some of the best poten-
tial bargains for travelling around Britain
especially between London and Scotland but
youll have to be flexible to get the best deals
(flights from 1, excluding taxes and fees) and
factor in the cost of travelling to and from
airports. There are sometimes extortionate
penalties for ticket changes and some airlines
now charge for hold luggage.
AIRLINES IN BRITAIN
The following airlines operate domestic
flights:
Air Scotland (code GRE; %0141-222 2363; www.air
-scotland.com) Serving Birmingham, Edinburgh, Glasgow,
Manchester and Newcastle.
BA Connect (code TH; %0870 850 9850; www.ba.com/
baconnect) Serving Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh,
Glasgow, Inverness, London City, London Gatwick, London
Luton, Manchester and Southampton.
BmiBaby (code WW; %0870 224 0224; www.bmibaby
.com) Serving Birmingham, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow,
London Gatwick, Manchester and Newquay.
easyJet (code EZY; %0870 600 0000; www.easyjet
.com) Serving Aberdeen, Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, In-
verness, Liverpool, London Gatwick, London Luton, London
Stansted and Newcastle.
Flybe (code BE; %0871 700 0535; www.flybe.com)
Serving Aberdeen, Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Exeter,
Glasgow, Jersey, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool John Lennon,
London City, London Gatwick, London Luton, Manchester,
Newcastle, Newquay, Norwich and Southampton.
Ryanair (code FR; %0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com)
Serving Aberdeen, Birmingham, Blackpool, Bristol, Cardiff,
Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool
John Lennon, London Gatwick, London Luton, London
Stansted, Manchester, Newcastle and Newquay.
Bicycle
Bike-friendly Britains urban and countryside
routes attract plenty of travelling pedal push-
ers. Helmets are not compulsory but they are
advisable since some routes particularly in
cities can be crowded. While the best roads
for cycling are country lanes, many urban
centres have designated bike paths. Cost-
effective bike rentals (from 6 per half-day)
are available in larger towns. See p222 for
further information.
Bus
Buses are the cheapest way to get around Brit-
ain but they can be slow, with some services
dawdling inexorably before reaching their
destination. While local services operate in
each region, theres also a network of intercity
buses (usually referred to as coaches) covering
longer distances.
Britains dominant coach operator is Na-
tional Express (%0870 580 8080; www.nationalexpress
.com), along with its north-of-the-border sub-
sidiary Scottish Citylink (%0870 550 5050; www
.citylink.co.uk). Megabus (%0900 160 0900; www.mega
bus.com) is its no-frills rival with a growing ros-
ter of services between major cities. Its fares
start at 1, if you book early enough. National
Express offers low funfares to compete on
many Megabus routes.
BUS PASSES
The National Express Brit Xplorer pass comes
in seven-, 14- and 28-day versions. Its only
available to non-Brits but can be purchased
in the UK. The company also offers an an-
nual discount card for those under 26 (10,
ID required, 30% discount on regular fares).
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
For almost any type of emergency dial
%999. You will be connected to the near-
est coast guard, fire service, mountain res-
cue, ambulance or police via this number.
154 155
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Scottish Citylink offers three-, five- and eight-
day passes (35/59/79).
Car & Motorcycle
Often the quickest, most convenient way to
travel around Britain is by car or motorbike.
But cars are rarely recommended in city cen-
tres, where parking can be troublesome and
expensive. Petrol is also pricey in Britain,
especially compared with North America.
DRIVING LICENCE
Your overseas driving licence is valid in Britain
for up to 12 months from date of entry.
HIRE
Vehicle hire is expensive in Britain and its
often better to make arrangements in your
home country for a fly/drive deal. Ask for any
special offers and mention that youre shop-
ping around for the best rate. Also consider
smaller independent operators in larger cities:
they are usually more open to negotiation.
Major hire companies:
Avis (%0870 010 0287; www.avis.co.uk)
Budget (%0870 153 9170; www.budget.co.uk)
EasyCar (%0906 333 3333; www.easycar.com)
Hertz (%0870 844 8844; www.hertz.co.uk)
Thrifty (%01494-751600; www.thrifty.co.uk)
PURCHASE
For longer treks, it may be cost-effective to
buy an older car or camper van. Roadworthy
near-wrecks cost from 500 but for some-
thing with seats you should budget for around
1000. Make sure the vehicle comes with a log
book and has passed its Ministry of Transport
(MOT) test before handing over any money.
Additional costs before you set out will in-
clude road tax (up to 105 for six months) and
third-party insurance (often around 400).
Check out whats available in the used market
via Autotrader (www.autotrader.co.uk) magazine.
ROAD RULES
The Highway Code, available in most book-
shops, contains all you need to know about
Britains road rules. Vehicles drive on the
left-hand side; seat belts are compulsory in
front seats (also in the back, where fitted); the
speed limit is 30mph in built-up areas, 60mph
on single carriageways and 70mph on dual
carriageways. A yellow line along the edge of
a road indicates parking restrictions look for
a sign nearby for exact limits. Motorcyclists
must wear helmets. The legal blood-alcohol
limit for drivers is 0.08%.
Train
Travelling by train in Britain is far better than
flying if you want to see the countryside. It
also has the convenience of taking you right
into the centre of town, rather than making
you struggle from an airport in the middle
of nowhere. But with new trains and faster
rails in recent years redressing decades of
under-investment fares can be expensive.
There are two ways to circumvent this: book
early and be flexible on dates so you can shop
around for the best deal; or consider buying a
train pass. For comprehensive fare, route and
timetable information, contact National Rail
Enquiries (%0845 748 4950; www.nationalrail.co.uk).
CLASSES & COSTS
Many but not all trains have two classes: 1st-
class tickets are up to 50% more expensive
than standard-class tickets and have separate
carriages. There are myriad ticketing op-
tions within standard class and the system is
needlessly complex on some routes. Recom-
mended options:
Apex The cheapest ticket for long-distance outward and
return journeys on different days.
Cheap Day Return The cheapest option for local and
regional return trips on the same day.
SuperSaver A return ticket that excludes travel at
weekday peak times, Fridays and holidays.
Keep in mind that there are dozens of train
operators in Britain, many servicing the same
routes. Frequent promotions are advertised,
especially during off-peak seasons, and these
can dramatically reduce fares. While the no-
frills, low-cost approach has yet to deeply
infiltrate the train market, Megabus subsid-
iary Megatrain (%0900 120 0300; www.megatrain.com)
recently launched routes between London,
Bath, Exeter, Portsmouth and Salisbury. If
you book far enough in advance, fares can
be as low as 1.
TRAIN PASSES
The Young Persons Railcard (20), Senior
Railcard (20) and Disabled Persons Railcard
(14) are each valid for 12 months and give a
one-third discount on most trips in Britain.
Check the options at the Railcard (www.railcard
.co.uk) website. Applications can be processed
over the counter at larger stations: youll need
proof of age or student enrolment for the Sen-
ior or Young Persons railcards and proof of
entitlement for the Disabled Persons Railcard.
Some regions also have their own discount
train passes, with the southeasts Network
Card (20) particularly popular.
The most convenient and cost-effective
option for extensive train travel is a BritRail
(www.britrail.com) pass. You must buy them at
home via the Britrail or Rail Europe (www.rail
europe.com) websites or at larger travel agents.
With your validated pass in hand, you dont
need to pick up tickets: just step on the train
and show your pass to the attendant. Consider
paying extra for a 1st-class pass, especially
if youre travelling in the crowded summer
season. Winter discounts are offered on some
BritRail passes.
Pass options include the popular BritRail
Consecutive Pass (unlimited four- to 31-days
travel ranging from US$218 to US$702) and
the BritRail Flexipass (four-, eight- or 15-days
travel over a two-month period for US$275
to US$604). England-only and Scotland-only
versions of these passes are cheaper. There are
also popular nonconsecutive London passes
(US$70 to US$176). Remember that Eurail
passes are not valid in Britain.
ENGLAND
When the governments Department for Cul-
ture recently launched a campaign to discover
Englands enduring icons, they kicked-off
with a Top 12 of well-worn classics. Spitfire
warplanes and Alice in Wonderland made the
cut, while chestnuts like tea and Stonehenge
rounded out the numbers.
But when organisers invited public nom-
inations, they were overwhelmed with sug-
gestions for icons they hadnt even thought
of, creating a collage of self-reflection about
what being English really means. Eschew-
ing the obvious, suggestions included gin,
Penguin books, Teletubbies, regional accents,
John Cleeses silly walk and closed-circuit TV
cameras in public places.
With Scotland and Wales gaining more
power to run their own affairs in recent years,
the idea of England as opposed to Britain
is clearly back on the agenda. For visitors,
the debate indicates the level of diversity they
can expect to experience here. Rolling hills,
thatched cottages and old-world pubs are a
given but latter-day England is also stuffed
with exciting cities like Bristol, Manchester
and Newcastle; dripping with excellent beaches
from Whitby to Newquay; and coloured by
accessible outdoor adventure in regions like
Exmoor and the North York Moors.
LONDON
%020 / pop 7.4 million
Like a mid-sized country on its own, London
has enough history, vitality and cultural drive
to keep most visitors occupied for weeks. In
recent years, this cosmopolitan world capital
has led international trends in music, fashion
and the arts, riding a wave of 21st-century
British confidence that has washed into areas
of the city that were formerly dark and de-
pressing. Adding to established tourist-haven
neighbourhoods like Westminster, Knights-
bridge and the City, reinvented areas of Lon-
don such as the artsy South Bank have become
newly visitor-friendly. With the 2012 Olympic
Games rolling into town, its a process that
will continue to alter Londons tourist land-
scape. The downside of this gentrification,
of course, is increasing cost: London is now
Europes most expensive city for visitors.
But despite the scary price tags there are
dozens of free or nearly free activities in the
city that can help keep travel budgets down.
ICONS OF ENGLAND
With perhaps a little too much time on their
hands, bureaucrats at the Department for
Culture kicked off their campaign to un-
cover Englands enduring icons with the
following Top 12. To see the dozens of
additional icons added by the public, visit
www.icons.org.uk.
1 Stonehenge
2 Punch & Judy
3 Holbeins Henry VIII portrait
4 Alice in Wonderland
5 SS Empire Windrush
6 A cup of tea
7 The FA Cup
8 Routemaster double-decker bus
9 The King James Bible
10 Angel of the North (the sculpture)
11 The Spitfire plane
12 Jerusalem (the anthemic song)
156 157
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These include the Tate Modern, National Gal-
lery and the Victoria & Albert Museum. Just
wandering the streets of London (stopping
only for a cheap lunchtime sandwich) is worth
a day of anyones time and Buckingham Pal-
ace and Westminster Abbey are just around
the corner.
HISTORY
A straggle of Celtic communities clung to
the banks of the Thames for centuries, but
it wasnt until the Romans arrived in AD 43
that the modern idea of London began to take
shape. But when the modernisers withdrew in
the 5th century, they left the settlement to sev-
eral hundred years of less-sophisticated Saxon
rule. By exploiting the trading advantages
of its giant river, the city slowly developed,
becoming a key European port.
This increased importance made invasions
inevitable. The Danish Vikings had a go in
851, with the Saxon King Alfred taking 25
years to retake and rebuild the city. A period
of Saxon prosperity ensued, but the persist-
ent Vikings finally appointed a Danish king
in 1016, naming London as their capital. In
1042 the Viking-friendly Saxon, Edward the
Confessor, was allowed to take the throne; he
went on to build Westminster Abbey.
The vacuum created by Edwards death led
to an international power struggle. Following
a series of skirmishes, the 1066 Battle of Hast-
ings enabled the Norman duke, William the
Conqueror, to march into London, build his
citadel at the Tower of London and underline
the citys role as capital.
Prosperous London increased in size and
global importance throughout the medieval
period, surviving the 1665 Plague and 1666
Great Fire. By 1720 London had 750,000 in-
habitants and was the centre of a growing
empire. Fuelled by mercantile wealth, the
Victorian era was its golden age.
In contrast, WWII was Londons dark-
est hour, with the city subject to relentless
bombing. An ugly postwar rebuilding phase
gave way to the cultural renaissance of the
1960s when the city was the worlds swing-
ing capital.
Todays London is both economically and
culturally vital, as hip as it was in the 60s,
and almost as rich as it was in the Victorian
era, creating a self-confidence that fuelled
its selection as 2012 Olympic Games host.
But for every period of success, tragedy has
never been far away. On 7 July 2005, the
day after London won its Olympic bid, four
terrorist bombs killed dozens on buses and
underground trains around the city. While
deep anxiety initially gripped Londoners,
most soon returned to their daily routines
a response mirrored throughout the capitals
turbulent history.
ORIENTATION
The Thames divides the city roughly into
north and south, with many must-see at-
tractions north of the river in the highly
walkable Westminster area. The easy-to-
use London Underground system (known
by everyone as the tube) is an essential
method for finding your way around
pick up a colour-coded underground map for
navigation. Many of Londons attractions lie
within the loop of the Circle Line (colour-
coded yellow).
Among Londons other popular visitor dis-
tricts, the West End includes major theatres,
a small Chinatown, and Covent Gardens
markets and buskers. The chichi Kensington
and Knightsbridge areas feature pricey bou-
tiques, national museums and Hyde Park.
The area called the City is home to some
magnificent old buildings and a plethora of
pubs, and is a short hop from the Tower of
London. The South Bank includes gentri-
fied riverside alleyways, Shakespeares Globe
Theatre and the Tate Modern. Heading east
along the river, youll witness the dramatic
revival of the Docklands and the colourful
history of Greenwich.
Major mainline train stations are dotted
throughout the capital, while the main bus
and coach hub is in Victoria, due south of
Buckingham Palace. Pick up a London A-Z,
the definitive London street guide in a handy
pocket-sized format.

INFORMATION
Internet Access
easyInternetcaf (www.easyInternetcaf.com; per
20min from 1) Kensington (Map pp170-1 ; 160-166
Kensington High St W8; h7am-11pm; tHigh St
Kensington); Oxford St (Map pp162-3 ; 358 Oxford St
W1; h8am-11pm Sun-Wed, 8am-midnight Thu-Sat;
tBond St); Tottenham Court Rd (Map pp170-1 ; 9-16
Tottenham Court Rd W1; h8am-midnight Sun-Wed,
8am-2am Thu-Sat; tTottenham Court Rd); Trafalgar
Square (Map pp170-1 ; 456-459 The Strand WC2; h8am-
11pm; tCharing Cross)
Coatbridge
Motherwell
Dunfermline
Hamilton East
Kilbride
Oban Perth
Greenock
Dumbarton
Dun Laoghaire
Tynemouth
Doncaster
Rotherham
Barnsley
Burnley
Blackburn
Bolton
Rhyl
Colwyn
Bay
Conwy
Sands
Llandudno
Newcastle-
under-Lyme
Telford
Rugby
Wellingborough
Brentwood
Watford
Basildon
Ashford
Chatham
Fcamp
Berck-
sur-
Mer
le Touquet-
Paris-
Plage
Royal
Tunbridge
WellsBexhill
Bognor
Regis
Hove
Worthing
Gosport
Fareham
Torbay
Stevenage
Barry
Bath
Glastonbury
Wells
Barrow-in-
Furness
Peterborough
Middlesbrough
Wrexham
Lincoln
Margate
Morpeth
Dudley
Stockport
Hereford
Kirkcaldy
Chichester
Harlow
Falmouth
Aylesbury
Basingstoke
Hawick
Oldham
Milton
Keynes
Bangor
Campbeltown
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Warrington
Taunton
Walsall
Derby
Scunthorpe
Barnstaple
Stranraer
Yeovil
St Helens
Caernarfon
Aberystwyth
Holyhead
Southport
Crawley
Newbury
Bury St
Edmunds
Bury
Salisbury
Grimsby
Shrewsbury
Port
Talbot
Penzance
Land's
End
Chester
Bray
Scarborough
Preston
Harrogate
Lowestoft
Swindon
Rochdale
Worchester
Carmarthen
Great
Yarmouth
Kidderminster
High
Wycombe
Hartlepool
Whitby
Pickering
Helmsley
Durham
Bishop
Auckland
Torquay
Halifax
Gloucester
Ayr
Huddersfield
Rochester
Newquay
St Ives
South Shields
Guildford
Kilmarnock
Douglas
Wigan
Dumfries
Weymouth
Darlington
Workington
Penrith
Windemere
Kendal
Settle
Cheltenham
St Albans
Loughborough
King's
Lynn
Alnwick
Lindisfarne
Sunderland
Chesterfield
Colchester
Blackpool
Maidstone
Plymouth
Ipswich
Nottingham
Southend-
on-Sea
Hastings
Swansea
Norwich
Canterbury
Chelmsford
York
Winchester
Bradford
Bournemouth
Folkestone
Kingston-upon-Hull
Glasgow
Luton
Eastbourne
Leicester
Newcastle
Gateshead
Manchester
Birmingham
Oxford
Leeds
Stoke-on-
Trent
Stirling
Bristol
Northampton
Dover
Wolverhampton
Reading
Bedford
Coventry
Stratford-
upon-Avon
Brighton
Portsmouth
Cambridge
Southampton
Carlisle
Sheffield
Liverpool
Dundee
Newport
Exeter
Belfast
Edinburgh
Cardiff
LONDON
Saint
Helier
Coutances
Saint-
L
Bayeux
Deauville
Lisieux
Elbeuf
Louviers
Evreux
Vernon
St Peter
Port
Dieppe
Yvetot
Caen
Cherbourg
Rouen
Boulogne-
sur-Mer
le Havre
Dartmoor
National Park
Danby
Grosmont
Windsor
Ely
Stow-on-
the-Wold
Grasmere
Ambleside
Lancaster
Haworth
Skipton
Grassington
Bude
Stonehenge
Avebury
I R I S H
S E A
N O R T H
S E A
Firth
of Lorn
Cardigan
Bay
Solway
Firth
Strait
of Dover
North
Channel
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
English Channel
Bristol Channel
S
t G
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o
r
g
e

s
C
h
a
n
n
e
l
NORTHERN
IRELAND
SCOTLAND
ENGLAND
IRELAND
WALES
FRANCE
Isle of
Man
Guernsey
Jersey
Alderney
Isle of
Wight
Anglesey
Yorkshire Dales
National Park
North
York Moors
National Park
Park
National
Peak District
National Park
Exmoor
Newcastle
Stansted
Luton
Heathrow
Gatwick
Bristol
Southampton
Birmingham
Liverpool
Cardiff
To Cork
56N
55N
54N
52N
51N
50N
49N
2E 1E 0
(Greenwich)
1W
2W 3W 4W
5W
6W
2W
53N
T
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a
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s
Earn
Nith

K
a
le

W
a
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e
r

R
iver
T
w
e
e
d

E
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e
n

ENGLAND
Park
National
Northumberland
Lake District
National Park
M6
M6
M1
M1
M1
M4
M3
M2
M5
M5
A1
A1 M11
M18
M62
A1
A1
0 75 km
0 45 miles
158 159
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Internet Resources
BBC London (www.bbc.co.uk/london) News, transport
and entertainment.
Time Out (www.timeout.com/london) Superior listings
guide.
Visit London (www.visitlondon.com) Official tourism site.
Media
Evening Standard Londons daily weekday newspaper
(45p), with Thursday listings magazine.
Time Out Essential weekly listings guide (2.50).
Medical Services
Dental Emergency Care Service (%7188 0511; Guys
Hospital, St Thomas St SE1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; tLon-
don Bridge) Arrive early: walk-in service is always busy.
NHS Direct (%0845 4647; h24hr) Call for the latest
roster of 24-hour pharmacies.
University College Hospital (Map pp162-3 ; %7387
9300; Grafton Way WC1; h24hr; tEuston Sq) Accident
and emergency.
Money
American Express (Map pp162-3 ; %7484 9600; 30-31
Haymarket SW1; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun;
tPiccadilly Circus) With branches across the city.
Thomas Cook (Map pp162-3 ; %7853 6400; 30 St
Jamess St SW1; h9am-5.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri,
10am-5.30pm Wed, 9am-4pm Sat; tGreen Park) With
branches across the city.
Post
Trafalgar Square Post Office (Map pp162-
3 ; %0845 722 3344; 24-28 William IV St WC2;
h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm Sat; tChar-
ing Cross) Busy central post office; hundreds of branches
throughout the city.
Tourist Information
Britain & London Visitor Centre (Map pp162-
3 ; www.visitbritain.com; 1 Lower Regent St SW1;
h9.30am-6.30pm Mon, 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-
4pm Sat & Sun; tPiccadilly Circus) Free London and
UK maps and brochures plus internet computers (per 15
minutes 1) and currency exchange. There is also a late-
opening London Visitor Centre in the arrivals hall of the
Waterloo International Terminal.
London Information Centre (Map pp162-3 ; %7292
2333; www.londontown.com; 1 Leicester Square WC2;
h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; tLeicester
Sq) Located in the Leicester Sq theatre-ticket sales booth
(see p173 ).
SIGHTS
London is an expensive city but its also teem-
ing with free sights for those with the creativ-
ity to look beyond the obvious attractions.
Spending a day exploring on foot can be just
as rewarding as spending your budget on a
high-priced gallery or museum visit. Grouped
by district, the listings below offer an array of
free sights as well as some must-do attractions
that you might just have to spend your lunch
money on.
West End
NATIONAL GALLERY
Occupying a handsome promontory over-
looking Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery
(Map pp162-3 ; %7747 2885; www.nationalgallery.org.uk;
Trafalgar Square WC2; admission free; h10am-6pm Mon, Tue
& Thu-Sun, 10am-9pm Wed; tCharing Cross) is Britains
leading public art space. Seminal paintings
from every period in art history are here, in-
cluding works by Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci,
Michelangelo and Van Gogh. Arrive early
and take your time or target your visit to a
particular period.
NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
The excellent National Portrait Gallery (Map pp162-
3 ; %7306 0055; www.npg.org.uk; 2 St Martins Pl WC2;
admission free; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun, 10am-
9pm Thu & Fri; tCharing Cross) is the place to put
faces to the famous and infamous names of
Britains past and present. The ground floor
is the most fun, focusing on contemporary
figures from popular culture, including Harry
Potter actor Daniel Radcliffe the gallerys
youngest non-Royal portrait.
BRITISH MUSEUM
Founded in 1753, the British Museum (Map pp162-
3 ; %7323 8299; www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk; Great Rus-
sell St WC1; admission free; h10am-5.30pm Sat-Wed,
10am-8.30pm Thu & Fri; tRussell Sq/Tottenham Court Rd)
houses one of the worlds finest cultural col-
lections. With some seven million items the
result of judicious acquisition and controver-
sial empire plundering its highlights include
rooms stuffed with Egyptian, Mesopotamian,
Greek and Roman antiquities. A latter-day
wonder, the museums spectacular Great Court
is Europes largest covered public square.

Westminster, St Jamess & Pimlico
Westminster Abbey Londons leading reli-
gious attraction, Westminster Abbey (Map pp162-3 ;
%7222 5152; www.westminster-abbey.org; 20 Deans Yard
SW1; adult/child 10/6; h9.30am-4.45pm Mon, Tue, Thu &
Fri, 9.30am-8pm Wed, 9.30am-2.45pm Sat, worship only Sun;
tWestminster) is where most British monarchs
have been crowned since Christmas Day 1066.
Once a monastery, its highlights include clois-
tered courtyards, the fan-vaulted Henry VII
chapel and a gaggle of monuments to famous
statesmen, scientists and poets.
TATE BRITAIN
Ever in the shadow of its rambunctious sibling,
Tate Britain (Mappp162-3 ; %78878000; www.tate.org.uk;
Millbank SW1; admission free; h10am-5.50pm; tPimlico)
houses a world-leading collection of British art
from the 16th to the late 20th centuries. Look
for works by Blake, Constable, Hockney, Bacon
and Moore. The Turner collection is particu-
larly comprehensive. A boat service (se p174 )
runs from here to the Tate Modern.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Built for the Duke of Buckingham in 1703,
Buckingham Palace (Map pp162-3 ; %7766 7300; www
.royalcollection.org.uk; Buckingham Palace Rd SW1; state rooms
adult/child 14/8; h9.45am-6pm Aug & Sep, changing of
the guard, 11.30am daily May-Jul, alternate days Aug-Apr;
tGreen Park) has been the monarchs main
London pad since 1837. The gaudily furnished
State Rooms are open in summer for the hordes
of tourists, but its more fun (and free) watch-
ing the changing of the guard outside.
Kensington & Knightsbridge
VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
The Victoria & Albert Museum (Map pp170-1 ; %7942
2000; www.vam.ac.uk; Cromwell Rd SW7; admission free;
h10am-5.45pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sun, 10am-10pm Wed;
GETTING INTO TOWN
Heathrow airport is 15 miles west of central London. Arriving every 15 minutes between 5.25am
and 11.55pm at London Paddington, the Heathrow Express (%0845 600 1515; www.heathrowexpress
.co.uk) train is the fastest transit option into town (14.50, 20 minutes). Piccadilly Line under-
ground services also pick up at Heathrow and arrive at several central London stations (6.20,
one hour). The service runs every few minutes from 5.30am to 11.45pm. National Express buses
from Heathrow arrive at London Victoria throughout the day (10, one hour).
Gatwick airport is 30 miles south of central London. Arriving at London Victoria every 15 or 30
minutes between 5.50am and 2.10am, the Gatwick Express (%0845 850 1530; www.gatwickexpress
.co.uk) train is an efficient transit option (14, 30 minutes). National Express buses from Gatwick
also arrive at London Victoria throughout the day (6.60, one to two hours).
Stansted airport is 35 miles northeast of central London. Arriving at London Liverpool St every
15 to 45 minutes between 6.15am and 1.15am, the Stansted Express (%0845 748 4950; www
.standstedexpress.com) train is the fastest route into the city (15, 45 minutes). Direct National Express
buses from Stansted arrive at London Victoria day and night (10, 1 hours). Two cheaper alterna-
tives are the Terravision (%01279-680028; www.lowcostcoach.com) bus services that run to London
Victoria (8.10, 75 minutes) and London Liverpool Street Station (6.70, 55 minutes).
Luton airport is 35 miles north of London. Regular direct train services arrive from Luton
at London Kings Cross throughout the day (11.20, one hour). Frequent National Express bus
services from Luton arrive at London Victoria throughout the day (8, one to 1 hours). easyBus
(www.easybus.co.uk) runs a frequent daily minibus service from the airport to Londons Regents
Park area (from 2, one to two hours).
Long-distance bus services arrive at Victoria Coach Station (Map pp162-3 ; c7730 3466; 184
Buckingham Palace Rd SW1;tVictoria). Eurostar trains arrive at the new London St Pancras Interna-
tional terminal (see p154 ). Each of Londons mainline stations serves various regions of Britain.
For more information on train travel, see p156 .
FIVE FREE LONDON ACTIVITIES
Stroll the once-wobbly Millennium
Bridge near the Tate Modern.
Take in a busker show around Covent
Garden (put some money in the hat if
its really good).
Hunt down the blue plaques that show
where historic Londoners once lived.
Soak up some rays (or some rain) in a
large London park.
Jostle among the crowds at a clamorous
street market.
160 161
B
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LONDON Cent r al London l one l y pl a ne t . c om
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162 163
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LONDON Si ght s l one l y pl a ne t . c om
B
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l one l y pl a ne t . c om LONDON Si ght s
tSouth Kensington) is the worlds greatest reposi-
tory of decorative arts. Spread over nearly 150
galleries, its bursting with everything from
furniture to fashion and ceramics to sculpture.
Regular temporary exhibitions including
recent Art Deco and Arts and Crafts shows
are often must-see blockbusters.
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Lots of fascinating interactive exhibits make
the Natural History Museum (Map pp170-1 ; %7942
5000; www.nhm.ac.uk; Cromwell Rd SW7; admission free;
h10am-5.50pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5.50pm Sun; tSouth
Kensington) a favourite for kids and adults alike.
Highlights include the Darwin Centre (with
22 million plant and animal specimens), the
towering dinosaur skeletons and the ginor-
mous blue whale.
SCIENCE MUSEUM
The Science Museum (Map pp170-1 ;%0870 870 4868;
www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; Exhibition Rd SW7; admission
free; h10am-6pm; tSouth Kensington) does a ter-
rific job of bringing to lustrous life a subject
that can be impenetrable. Curiously, although
its stuffed with high-tech simulators and a
five-storey IMAX cinema, kids crowd in awe
around the low-tech steam engines and In-
dustrial Revolution machinery. Escape the
noisy tots at the lounge-style Dana Centre, an
adults-only bar and caf.
The City
MUSEUM OF LONDON
The Museum of London (Map pp162-3 ; %0870 444
2852; www.museumoflondon.org.uk; 150 London Wall EC2;
admission free; h10am-5.50pm Mon-Sat, noon-5.50pm Sun;
tBarbican/St Pauls) is a recommended introduc-
tion to the citys rich history, starting with a
set of 300,000-year-old flint tools found in
Piccadilly. The rest is a fascinating smorgas-
bord of Romans, Royals and rooms re-creating
Londons historic epochs. Dont miss the dra-
matic Fire of London simulation and check the
museums roster of temporary exhibitions.
TOWER OF LONDON
Despite the coach parties and surrounding
tower blocks, its still possible to back into a
corner at the Tower of London (%0870 756 6060;
www.hrp.org.uk; Tower Hill EC3; adult/child 15/9.50; h9am-
6pmTue-Sat, 10am-6pmSun &Mon Mar-Oct, 9am-5pmTue-Sat,
10am-5pmSun &Mon Nov-Feb; tTower Hill) for uninter-
rupted views of the medieval buildings. After
the obligatory Crown Jewels visit, explore the
walls, dungeons and museum rooms. Reserve
ahead for the free Ceremony of the Keys, the tow-
ers 700-year-old lock-up routine.
ST PAULS CATHEDRAL
Christopher Wrens grand masterpiece, the
recently renovated St Pauls Cathedral (Map
pp162-3 ; %7246 8350; Ludgate Hill EC4; adult/child 9/3.50;
h8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, services only Sun; tSt Pauls) is
the proud bearer of the capitals largest church
dome. Attractions include the golden ceiling
mosaics and the Whispering Gallery if you talk
close to the wall it carries your words around
to the opposite side. VIPs remembered by
their tombs and monuments here include
Nelson, Joshua Reynolds and Wren himself.
TOWER BRIDGE
An iconic landmark near the Tower of Lon-
don, the Tower Bridge (%7403 3761; Tower Bridge SE1;
adult/child 5.50/3; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-6pm
Oct-Mar; tTower Hill) is one of the citys most pho-
tographed spots. But its not just a pretty face:
its drawbridge still opens several times a day.
Its free to walk across but youll have to pay to
enter and check out the small exhibition.

Along the South Bank
HYDE PARK
Originally a hunting ground for Henry VIII,
Londons favourite park (Map pp170-1 ; h5.30am-
midnight; tHyde Park Corner/Knightsbridge/Marble Arch/
Lancaster Gate) is the green space of choice for
thousands of locals every day especially in
summer, when lunching office workers drop
by to top up their tans. For visitors, the park
is dripping with free attractions, including
monuments like the Albert Memorial, Marble
Arch and Speakers Corner, where nutbar
orators spout their stuff. The top freebie is the
Serpentine Gallery (Map pp170-1 ; %7402 6075; www
.serpentinegallery.org; Kensington Gardens W8; h10am-
6pm; tKnightsbridge), a handsome 1930s tea
room now housing one of Londons finest
collections of modern art.
TATE MODERN
The hugely popular Tate Modern (Map pp162-3 ;
%7887 8008; www.tate.org.uk; Bankside SE1; admission free;
h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, 10am-11pm Fri & Sat; tBlackfri-
ars) exhibits 20th-century art in a cavernous
former power-station shed. The permanent
collection, ranging from Rothko to Lichten-
stein, is impressive, while temporary installa-
tions in the Turbine Hall and regular special
exhibitions draw locals back for more. The
7th-floor caf and 4th-floor espresso bar have
great views over the Thames. A boat runs
from here to Tate Britain (see p174 ).
SHAKESPEARES GLOBE
An authentic 1997 rebuild of the original
London theatre where Shakespeares plays
were performed, the Globe (Map pp162-3 ; %7902
1500; www.shakespeares-globe.org; 21 New Globe Walk SE1;
adult/child 8.50/7; h10am-5.45pm; tMansion House/
Southwark/London Bridge) is a pilgrimage destination
for fans of the Bard. Within its circular wood-
framed walls, outdoor plays are performed in
the round from May to October (see p173 ).
The rest of the year, theres a colourful exhi-
bition (adult/child 8.50/6) that includes a
backstage tour.
LONDON EYE
On a clear day, from the London Eye (Map pp162-
3 ; %0870 500 0600; www.londoneye.com; Jubilee Gardens
SE1; adult/child 13/6.50; h10am-9pm Jun-Sep, 10am-8pm
Oct-May; tWestminster/Waterloo) you can see for
25 miles in every direction. The 32 glass-
enclosed gondolas of the worlds largest Ferris
wheel take 30 minutes to completely rotate,
so passengers (up to 25 in each capsule) really
get time to take in the experience. Consider
a night flight for more sparkly views. Its a
good idea to book tickets in advance via the
website especially in summer, when every-
one wants a ride.
South London
GREENWICH
Worthy of its own maritime-themed day out,
Greenwichs highlights start with the Cutty Sark
(%8858 2698; www.cuttysark.org.uk; King William Walk
SE10; adult/child 5/3.70; h10am-5pm; tDLR Cutty Sark),
a lovely old tea-and-wool clipper ship.
Its a short walk to the complex of hand-
some Greenwich palaces, including the
National Maritime Museum (%8312 6565; www.nmm
.ac.uk; Park Row SE10; admission free; h10am-6pm Jul-Aug,
10am-5pm Sep-Jun) and the baroque Old Royal Naval
College (%8269 4747; www.oldroyalnavalcollege.org; King
William Walk SE10; admission free; h10am-5pm). Climb
1
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
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9
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SLEEPING
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EATING
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TRANSPORT
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SHOPPING
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ENTERTAINMENT
53
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48
47
DRINKING INFORMATION
C5 Office).......................................
American Express (Main
D4 Australian Embassy.....................
Thomas Cook (Main Office).....
St Paul's Cathedral.................... F4
Shakespeare's Globe...............(see 63)
National Portrait Gallery............ C5
National Gallery........................ C5
Museum of London.................. F4
London Eye.............................. D6
Buckingham Palace................... B7
British Museum......................... C3
University College Hospital........ B3
Trafalgar Square Post Office..... C5
B6
C5
New Zealand High
London Visitor Centre.............. D6
London Information Centre...... C5
Japanese Embassy...................... A6
Irish Embassy.............................. A7
easyInternetcafe......................... A4
easyInternetcafe......................... C5
easyinternetcafe......................... C4
A5
B5
Britain & London Visitor
Commission............................
Canada House............................
Centre......................................
C8 Tate Britain...............................
F5 Tate Modern.............................
C7 Westminister Abbey.................
C3 Arran House Hotel....................
C2 Generator.................................
B3 Indian Student YMCA...............
James House & Cartref
House.................................... A8
B8 Luna & Simone Hotel................
B4 Oxford St YHA Hostel...............
B5 Piccadilly Backpackers...............
C3 St Margaret's Hotel..................
D4 Travelodge...............................
B8 Victoria Hostel..........................
B7 Wigram House..........................
B3 Busaba Eathai............................
C5 Caf de Hong Kong..................
C5 Caf in the Crypt......................
B4 Carluccio's Caff.......................
C5 Chuen Cheng Ku.....................
C4 Food for Thought.....................
C7 Footstool..................................
B4 Masala Zone.............................
B4 Rasa Samudra...........................
B4 Satsuma.................................... Victoria Coach Station.............. A8
Top Shop.................................. B4
Paperchase................................ B3
Muji.......................................... C5
tkts.........................................(see 63)
Shakespeare's Globe................. F5
Royal National Theatre............. D5
Pacha....................................... A7
Heaven..................................... C5
Fabric........................................ F3
Cross......................................... C1
Borderline................................. C4
Borderline................................. C5
Bar Rumba................................ B5
12 Bar Club.............................. C4
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.......... E4
Seven Stars............................... D4
Lamb & Flag............................. C5
Compton's of Soho................... C5
Candy Bar................................. B4
Bradley's Spanish Bar................ B4
Anchor Bankside....................... F5 ROUTEMASTERS RULE
Decommissioned in 2005 after more than
50 years of public service, Londons charm-
ing red double-decker Routemaster buses
have begun a new lease of life travelling
on two heritage routes. The No 9 trundles
from the Royal Albert Hall to Aldwych via
Piccadilly Circus, while the No 15 runs from
Trafalgar Square to Tower Hill via Fleet St.
Standard bus fares apply (see p175 ), and
buses run every 15 minutes from 9.30am
to 6pm.
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the nearby hill to the Royal Observatory (%8312
6565; www.rog.nmm.ac.uk; Greenwich Park SE10; admission
free; h10am-6pm Jul-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Jun). A brass
strip in the courtyard here marks the Prime
Meridian, dividing the world into eastern and
western hemispheres.
MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS
Housed in a 200-year-old former warehouse,
the Museum in Docklands (%0870 444 3857; www
.museumindocklands.org.uk; West India Quay, Hertsmere Rd
E14; adult/child 5/free; h10am-6pm; tCanary Wharf )
illuminates the intriguing ebb and flow of two
millennia of Thames history. Displays include
Roman figurines and a striking scale model
of the medieval London Bridge. Stroll around
Sailortown, a walk-through re-creation of the
areas 18th-century streets, complete with the
sounds of drunken sailors and cackling hags.
TOURS
London is crisscrossed with great walking
tours that scratch below the surface of the
citys colourful past. History-huggers will
enjoy a stroll with London Walks (%7624 3978;
www.walks.com; adult/child 6/free), which expertly
covers a huge array of subjects, including
ghosts, pubs and The Da Vinci Code.
For a less-conventional approach, the Back
Passages of Spitalfields (%77294816; www.backpassages
walks.co.uk; adult/child 6/5; h6.30pm first 2 Sundays of
every month Apr-Oct) tour combines comic street
theatre and eye-opening stories on this infa-
mous East End enclave.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
University Boat Race (www.theboatrace.org) The
traditional Oxford-versus-Cambridge row-off from Putney
to Mortlake along the Thames in March.
Trooping the Colour (www.royal.gov.uk) The Queens
other birthday is celebrated with pomp, pageantry and
parades at Horse Guards Pde in mid-June.
Pride Parade (www.pridelondon.org) Gays and lesbians
head off from Oxford St to paint the town pink in July.
Notting Hill Carnival (www.lnhc.org.uk) Enormous
multicultural street parade in mid-August.
Lord Mayors Show (www.lordmayorsshow.org) Giant
colourful street procession in November.
New Years Eve Celebration Countdown to midnight in
Trafalgar Square.
SLEEPING
Staying in London is an expensive business,
but there are ways to cut your costs without
sleeping on the streets. There are plenty of
hostels and many colleges provide good-value
summer accommodation contact Venuemas-
ters (%0114-249 3090; www.venuemasters.com) for
information. Its also worth trying a B&B
homestay: check your options with the London
Bed & Breakfast Agency (%7586 2768; www.londonbb
.com). Contact Londons official hotel bookings
service (%0845 644 3010; www.visitlondonoffers.com)
for up-to-date sleepover bargains throughout
the city.
West End
The centre of the action charges a premium
for convenience, but it can also be a noisy
place to spend the night.
Piccadilly Backpackers (Map pp162-3 ; %7434 9009;
www.piccadillybackpackers.com; 12 Sherwood St W1; dm/s/tw
12/36/52; i; tPiccadilly Circus) This giant, cheap
and cheerful spot is as bright as a kindergar-
ten art class. Along with its pod-style dorm
beds, high-speed internet access (per hour
1), theres a rowdy on-site bar. This is a party
hostel, so dont expect to get far with your
copy of War and Peace.
Oxford St YHA (Map pp162-3 ; %0870 770 5894;
oxfordst@yha.org.uk; 14 Noel St W1; dm 23.50; ni;
tOxford Circus) The most central of Londons
YHA hostels is basic, clean, welcoming and
loud. All the dorms are small theres a maxi-
mum of four beds per room and theres a TV
lounge and large kitchen. Its a great location
for pubs, clubs and theatres.
Travelodge (Map pp162-3 ; %0870 085 0950; www
.travelodge.co.uk; 10 Drury Lane WC2; r from 49; tCovent
Garden/Holborn) On the northern fringes of Cov-
ent Garden, price is the main selling point
at this functional chain hotel. The rooms
are clean but institutional perfect if youre
planning to be out all day and just need a
well-located place to crash.
Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia
A quieter, more residential area than the rabble-
rousing West End, and prices are usually more
reasonable here.
Generator (Map pp162-3 ; %7388 7666; www.generator
hostels.com; Compton Pl, off 37 Tavistock Pl WC1; dm/s/tw from
12.50/35/46; ni; tRussell Sq) Dont be fooled
by the industrial, factory-floor interiors: this
place is not about work but about serious
hedonism. There are nearly 900 beds, an on-
site travel agency and an internet suite, but its
the late-opening bar that sees the most action.
Theres no kitchen, so consider leftover beer
for breakfast.
Indian Student YMCA (Map pp162-3 ; %7387 0411;
www.indianymca.org; 41 Fitzroy Sq W1; dm/s/d 22/35/50;
ni; tWarren St) For all nationalities and
not just students, this good-value YMCA has
clean, good-sized rooms, laundry facilities and
an excellent gym. Prices include breakfast and
a tasty curry dinner, and there are attractive
discounts for longer stays.
Arran House Hotel (Map pp162-3 ; %7636 2186; www
.arranhotel-london.com; 77-79 Gower St WC1; dm/s/d from
18.50/55/72; i; tGoodge St) This good-value,
detail-oriented hotel has dorm and private
accommodation, and is a short walk from the
British Museum. The cosy double rooms have
Art Deco fireplaces and the rose garden is a
pleasant summer bonus. Breakfast and free
wireless access are included.
St Margarets Hotel (Map pp162-3 ; %7636 4277;
www.stmargaretshotel.co.uk; 26 Bedford Pl WC1; s/d from
55/82; n; tRussell Sq/Holborn) This smashing
family-run townhouse hotel is among the
most homey options in central London. The
rooms are simply furnished but comfortable
and the bathrooms are spotless. Ask for a back
room if youre craving tranquillity youll be
overlooking a small garden.
Westminster, Pimlico & Victoria
Its not the most attractive part of London, but
Victorias budget hotels are better value than
those in Earls Court. Pimlico is more residen-
tial but convenient for the Tate Britain.
Victoria Hostel (Map pp162-3 ; %7834 3077; www
.astorhostels.com; 71 Belgrave Rd SW1; dm 15-18, d/tw
50/50; i; tPimlico) This warm and welcom-
ing backpacker joint has 200 beds in mostly
mid-sized dorm rooms. Facilities include two
kitchens and a TV lounge with DVD movies.
There are Thursday night group dinners and
rates include continental breakfast.
Wigram House (Map pp162-3 ; %7834 1169; www
.wmin.ac.uk/comserv; 84-99 Ashley Gardens SW1; s/tw 35/56;
tVictoria) One of seven University of West-
minster student residences available from
June to September, this six-storey Victorian
mansion has basic study rooms (all with
sinks), shared bathrooms, large kitchens and
laundry facilities. Located in a quiet residen-
tial area near St Jamess Park.
Luna & Simone Hotel (Map pp162-3 ; %7834 5897;
www.lunasimonehotel.com; 47-49 Belgrave Rd SW1; s/d/
tr from 35/65/90; ni; tVictoria) In a street
crowded with B&Bs of widely varying qual-
ity, this is a shining example of good value
well done. The bright, spotless rooms have
satellite TV and most are en suite (love those
power showers). Cooked breakfast is included
and wi-fi access is available on the ground
and 1st floors.
James House & Cartref House (Mappp162-3 ; %7730
7338/7730 6176; www.jamesandcartref.co.uk; 108 & 129 Ebury
St SW1; s/d/tr from52/70/95; ni; tVictoria) Among
the areas best for the budget, these two hand-
some townhouse B&Bs face each other across
the street. Run by a friendly couple with a good
knowledge of the area, the rooms (some with
shared bathrooms) are clean and bright, and the
cooked breakfast is a hearty stomach-filler.

Kensington & Earls Court
Close to Hyde Park, major museums and a
busy shop-lined High St, Kensington is a good
base with a wide range of accommodation
options. Adjacent Earls Court mines the
budget end of the spectrum, but the quality
here can vary enormously.
Earls Court YHA (Map pp170-1 ; %0870 770 5804;
earlscourt@yha.org.uk; 38 Bolton Gardens SW5; dm 19.50;
ni; tEarls Court) Situated in a large, re-
cently refurbished Victorian townhouse, this
immaculate and spacious hostel has mainly
four-bed dorms and very helpful staff. There
is a well-equipped self-catering kitchen and a
large lounge with satellite TV. Bike hire avail-
able (per day 9.50).
easyHotel (%7216 1717; www.easyhotel.com; 14 Lex-
ham Gardens W8; r from $30; n; tEarls Court/Gloucester
Rd) The first of a planned chain of orange-hued
no-frills properties, the rooms here are either
small, very small or tiny and most are win-
dowless. Each has a double bed, airplane-style
bathroom and wall-mounted TV (5 extra).
On the plus side, its clean, well located and, if
you book far ahead, an exceptional deal.
Mayflower Hotel (Map pp170-1 ; %7370 0991;
mayflowerhotel.co.uk; 26-28 Trebovir Rd SW5; s/d/tr from
65/85/105; i; tEarls Court) Yet another white-
stucco, former townhouse hotel, the May-
flower distinguishes itself by offering rooms
with a refreshing Indonesian theme, including
lovely teak furnishings and colourful fabric
flourishes. The bathrooms, with floor to ceil-
ing tiles, are equally impressive. Theres a juice
bar in the lobby and the continental breakfast
includes cheese, waffles and fresh fruit.
Bayswater, Paddington & Notting Hill
This area has a good selection of inexpensive
accommodation, with some funky options at
the higher price range around Notting Hill.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 166 167
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Wake Up! London (Map pp170-1 ; %7262 4471; www
.wakeuplondon.co.uk; 1 Queens Gardens W2; dm/s/d/tw from
11/18/30/35; ni; tPaddington) The spartan
mid-sized dorms at this colourful Australian-
owned hostel are complemented by a plethora
of facilities that include laundry, internet ac-
cess, a well-stocked kitchen and an on-site
travel agency. The subterranean bar special-
ises in getting you as drunk as possible for the
least amount of money.
Leinster Inn (Map pp170-1 ; %7229 9641; www.astor
hostels.com; 7-12 Leinster Sq W2; dm/s/d from 14/26.50/41;
ni; tBayswater) In a large old house north-
west of Bayswater tube station and close to
Portobello Rd Market, this friendly, well-
established hostel has an internet caf, late-
opening bar and regular themed party nights.
Prices include continental breakfast.
St Davids Hotel (Map pp170-1 ; %7723 3856; www
.stdavidshotels.com; 16-20 Norfolk Sq W2; s/d/tr from 35/
59/80; tPaddington) Some of the rooms are a bit
pokey and the dcor has seen better days, but
this 19th-century Mews-style property has a
wide array of good-value rooms, with rates for
groups of three or more especially enticing.
Includes a cooked breakfast.
EATING
Its hard not to find somewhere to eat in Lon-
don. All-you-can-eat pizza bars abound, pubs
serve grub by the ton and street markets dish
up home-cooked nosh for the price of a latte.
But quality varies enormously and its easy to
drop 20 on a meal and feel dissatisfied.
West End
Soho is one of Londons gastronomic centres,
with plenty of worthy choices along Old
Compton and Dean Sts. Chinatown also of-
fers plenty of set-menu bargains.
Caf de Hong Kong (Map pp162-3 ; %7534 9898; 47-49
Charing Cross Rd WC2; lunch combo 5.80; hlunch & dinner;
tLeicester Sq) This clamorous Chinese cafe-
teria is full every lunchtime with noisy Asian
students comparing cellphone images and
sipping bubble tea. The fast-food approach
delivers great value, though, with dozens of
rice or noodle combos for under 6.
Food for Thought (Map pp162-3 ; %7836 9072; 31
Neal St WC2; mains 4-8; h9.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-
5pm Sun; n; tCovent Garden) Crammed between
Neal Sts trendy boutiques, this tiny vegetarian
nook is good value. Its ever-changing menu of
hearty dishes includes excellent stir-fries and
substantial salads plus the kind of cakes your
granny would make.
Masala Zone (Map pp162-3 ; %7287 9966; 9 Marshall
St W1; mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun;
n; tOxford Circus) The industrial, canteen-like
design, juxtaposed against terracotta walls, fits
perfectly with the modern approach to Indian
cuisine here. Dishes range from street hawker
snacks to noodle bowls and curries but there
are some good-value combos that allow you
to flex your taste buds without exhausting
your cash.
Satsuma (Map pp162-3 ; %7437 8338; 56 Wardour St
W1; mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner; tPiccadilly Circus)
Dont be put off by the modern Japanese
chain restaurant look of this place: the food
includes excellent hand-made sushi and more
good-value combo options than you can shake
chopsticks at. The fresh tempura plates are
recommended, as well as the takeaway bento
boxes a perfect picnic lunch.
Other recommendations:
Caf in the Crypt (Map pp162-3 ; %7839 4342; St
Martin-in-the-Fields, Duncannon St WC2; mains 4-9;
h8am-8pm Mon-Wed, 8am-10.30pm Thu-Sat, noon-
8pm Sun; tCharing Cross) Among shadowy church
arches, this is a great coffee-and-cake spot.
Chuen Cheng Ku (Map pp162-3 ; %7437 1398; 17
Wardour St W1; combo lunch 8.80; hlunch & dinner;
tLeicester Sq) Arrive early at this giant Cantonese
restaurant: its hugely popular.
Bloomsbury, Fitzrovia & Westminster
Prices are generally lower in Bloomsbury and
Fitzrovia, but there are few bargains to be had
in Westminster.
Carluccios Caff (Map pp162-3 ; %7636 2228; 8 Market
Pl W1; mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner; tOxford Circus)
Among the family-owned Italian restaurants
in central Londons backstreets, this lunch-
time pit stop serves satisfying pasta and risotto
dishes. The good-value menu includes daily-
changing specials and the hearty desserts are
prepared with care.
Rasa Samudra (Map pp162-3 ; %7637 0222; 5 Charlotte
St W1; mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun;
tGoodge St) Ignore the neon-pink exterior of
this lip-smacking South Indian restaurant
and head straight for the Keralan fish and
shellfish menu. There are plenty of well-priced
mains but if you can stretch to 30, indulge
in the Seafood Feast, a banquet of starters,
curries and desserts that covers the kitchens
main highlights, including the excellent crab
curry.
Busaba Eathai (Map pp162-3 ; %7299 7900; 22 Store
St W1; mains 5-11; hlunch & dinner; n; tGoodge
St) A happening Thai eatery with the com-
munal bench seating arrangements favoured
by many of Londons new wave Asian restau-
rants. But the aesthetics are only part of the
equation. Generous, innovative dishes like
butternut pumpkin curry and prawns pomelo
on betel leaves bring the office workers back
for more.
Footstool (Map pp162-3 ; %7222 2779; St Johns, Smith
Sq SW1; mains 8-18; hlunch Mon-Fri; tWestminster)
Set in an atmospheric brick-vaulted church
crypt, the buffet lunch here is deservedly
popular and focuses on traditional British
and Mediterranean fare. Check out the shady
character in the corner hes probably an MP
from the nearby House of Commons. Ring for
evening dining hours.
Kensington, Knightsbridge & Earls
Court
From finger-licking cheap eats to credit-card
busting Michelin stars, this area caters well to
most budgets.
Troubadour (Map pp170-1 ; %7341 6333; 265 Old
Brompton Rd SW5; mains 6-13; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner;
tWest Brompton/Earls Court) This wood-floored
bohemian hang-out is exactly what a great
caf should be: tons of trinkety character, staff
who encourage lingering and a menu focused
on comfort food. A great place for breakfast,
and dinner classics include Cajun chicken and
bangers and mash.
Lundums (Map pp170-1 ; %7373 7774; 117 Old Bromp-
ton Rd SW7; mains 4.50-14; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat,
lunch Sun; tGloucester Rd/South Kensington) Set in a
beautiful Edwardian building with bright and
airy interiors, this warm Danish eatery serves
authentic Scandinavian dishes like hearty pork
meatballs and succulent grilled salmon. The
lunch special two courses for 13.50 is a
good deal, allowing you to dip into marinated
herrings without gagging at the price.

Notting Hill
Increasingly a London food-lovers paradise,
Notting Hill combines cheap ethnic take-
aways, quirky cafs and some seriously trendy
restaurants.
Sausage & Mash Caf (Map pp170-1 ; %8968 8898;
268 Portobello Rd W10; mains 6-8; h9am-11pm Mon-
Thu, 9am-11.30pm Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm Sun; tLadbroke
Grove) Wittily known as the S&M caf, this
place does an upmarket version of the rib-
sticking English favourite. There are 20
sausage varieties to choose from (including
vegetarian options), with wild boar and mush-
room and tarragon recommended. Look out
for additional branches in Islington at 46
Essex Rd and opposite Spitalfields Market.
Caf Grove (Map pp170-1 ; %7243 1094; 253a Por-
tobello Rd W11; mains 5-9.50; h10am-5pm Sun-Fri,
10am-6pm Sun; tLadbroke Grove) This no-frills
neighbourhood eatery has been attracting
the locals for decades. They come for all-day
breakfasts (the eggs Benedict dish is great),
as well as heaping pastas and jaw-stretching
sandwiches. Theres a large terrace overlook-
ing the nearby market.
Food @ The Muse (Map pp170-1 ; %7792 1111; 269
Portobello Rd W11; mains 8-14; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat,
dinner Sun & Mon; tNotting Hill Gate) Part of the
Muse Gallery, this sleek, modern restaurant
focuses on contemporary European cuisine.
Its dishes are eclectic and adventurous, with
the hot-and-sour green-mango salad with
roast peanuts particularly recommended.
DRINKING
Booze has flown through London like a sec-
ond River Thames since the wine-quaffing
Romans arrived 2000 years ago. But while the
capital has more old-school pubs than you can
shake a yard of ale at, a new breed of lounge-
style bars has also slid onto the scene.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (Map pp162-3 ; %7353 6170;
145 Fleet St EC4; tBlackfriars) The granddaddy of
London pubs, this 17th-century multiroomed
maze is stacked over several levels. Head
downstairs for the brick-lined vault, fringed
with stone arches and dimly lit corners its
the kind of place villains from Dickens would
come to plan their nefarious shenanigans.
SPLURGE
Portobello Hotel (Map pp170-1 ; %7727 2777;
www.portobello-hotel.co.uk; 22 Stanley Gardens
W11; s/d/tw from 135/180/200; nai;
tNotting Hill Gate) From the Sex Pistols to
Kate Moss, this exclusive Notting Hill hotel
has been a firm favourite of discerning stars
for years. Its public spaces are bright and
theatrical but the rooms are tastefully deco-
rated with high ceilings, colourful fabrics
and unforgettable beds, some of them four-
poster. Theres a 24-hour bar and restaurant
and free internet but if you can afford to
stay here, thats probably not an issue.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 168 169
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170 171
B
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LONDON Cl ubbi ng l one l y pl a ne t . c om
B
R
I
T
A
I
N

l one l y pl a ne t . c om LONDON Ent er t ai nment
Bradleys Spanish Bar (Map pp162-3 ; %7636 0359;
44 Hanway St W1; tTottenhamCourt Rd) Shabby, small
and charming, this roguish bohemian haunt
can still pack in the alternative types on most
nights. Head downstairs for dimly lit alcoves,
red velvet seats and a diverse selection of Euro-
pean beers or just hit the jukebox; its stocked
with classics by Nirvana, Pearl Jam et al.
Lamb & Flag (Map pp 162-3 ; %7497 9504; 33 Rose St
WC2; tCovent Garden) Tucked in Covents Gar-
dens narrow backstreets, this old charmer
hasnt changed in decades. The wood floors
are still painted black, the tables are chipped
and wobbly, and the shadowy back room
still has a fireplace. For those who like to eat
with their beer, theres a celebrated gourmet
cheese menu.
Anchor Bankside (Map pp162-3 ; %7407 1577; 34
Park St SE1; tLondon Bridge) With a large patio
on the edge of the Thames, this is the perfect
spot to watch the pleasure boats slide by. On
rainy days, the pub building a handsome
brick and timber construction garnished with
bright blue window shutters is a cosy gem,
with an array of Shakespearean ephemera
indicating the areas link to the Bard.
Loungelover (%7012 1234; 1 Whitby St E1; tLiver-
pool St) With its menagerie of interior quirks
think stuffed hippos heads this eccentric
drinking hole has been popular with hipsters
since it opened. Despite the determinedly
wacky aesthetics, its still cosy and has a kick-
ass selection of cocktails. Theres live music
on Friday nights.
Seven Stars (Map pp162-3 ; %7242 8521; 53-54 Carey
St WC2; tHolborn) Theres not much elbow room
at this eccentric sliver of a pub that combines
the history of several centuries with movie-
buff wall displays. Built in the early 1600s,
it has a continental ambience, a surprisingly
good wine list and a menu of great gastro-
pub food.
CLUBBING
London hosts an astonishing array of club
venues, from noisy warehouse-sized dance
stadiums to intimate house and hip-hop fests.
While superclubs can charge anywhere up to
20 for entry on Friday and Saturday nights,
admission to smaller joints can be free.
93 Feet East (%7247 3293; 150 Brick Lane E1; admission
free-10; h5-11pm Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri, noon-1am Sat,
noon-10.30pm Sun; tLiverpool St) Hosting Hoxtons
finest, this excellent club has three rooms, a
swish downstairs bar and an appealing out-
door courtyard for cooling off. Hip-hop, soul
and house are the mainstays but theres an
eclectic mix of additional happenings to keep
the locals interested.
Bar Rumba (%7287 2715; 36 Shaftesbury Ave W1; ad-
mission free-12; h10.30pm-3am Mon & Wed, 8.30pm-3am
Tue, Thu & Fri, 9pm-5am Sat, 8pm-1.30am Sun; tPiccadilly
Circus) This intimate subterranean Soho club
has been packing them in for more than 10
years. The crowds come for theme nights like
Barrio Latino, focusing on salsa and urban
Latin beats, and Sportswear Jam, where Adidas-
clad funksters party to house.
Fabric (Map pp162-3 ; %7336 8898; 77a Charterhouse St
EC1; admission 12-15; h9.30pm-5am Fri, 10pm-7am Sat;
tFarringdon) This former meat-cellar venue
attracts an international crowd to its three
dance floors, including the kidney-shaking
Bodysonic floor. Focuses include electro and
house but Friday nights Fabriclive event is a
heart-racing mix of everything from hip-hop
to drumnbase.
Pacha London (Map pp162-3 ; %7834 4440; Terminus
Pl SW1; admission 15-20; h10pm-4am Fri, 10pm-6am
Sat; tVictoria) Large, loud and mainstream,
this ever-popular London nightspot combines
wood panelling, upholstered booths and an
amazing stained-glass ceiling. The music is
pop, soul and house, and there are regular
monthly theme nights.
Other recommendations:
Cross (Map pp162-3 ; %7837 0828; 27-31 Kings
Cross Goods Yard, off York Way N1; admission 12-15;
h10.30pm-5am Fri & Sat, 10.30-4pm Sun; tKings
Cross) House with an Ibizan flavour.
Cherry Jam (Map pp170-1 ; %7727 9950; 58 Porches-
ter Rd W2; admission 5-8; h7pm-1.30am Thu-Sat;
tRoyal Oak) Latin to deep-house, plus live bands and
readings.
Gay & Lesbian Venues
Soho is the heart of gay London head for
the main strip of Old Compton St where there
are plenty of bars and cafs, and pick up free
listings like Boyz and QX. More serious pa-
pers and magazines include Diva and Gay
Times. The annual Pride Parade is in July
(see p166 ).
Candy Bar (Ma pp162-3 ; %7494 4041; 4 Carlisle
St W1; h5-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat,
5-11.30pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd) Londons best
lesbian bar.
Comptons of Soho (Map pp162-3 ; %7479 7961; 51-
53 Old Compton St W1; tLeicester Sq) Popular cruising
bar for the boys.
Heaven (Map pp162-3 ; %7930 2020; The Arches,
Villiers St WC2; admission 1-12; h10.30pm-3am Mon &
Wed, 10.30am-6pm Fri, 10pm-5am Sat; tCharing Cross)
Legendary London gay club.
ENTERTAINMENT
London hosts a lively, vibrant mix of wel-
come distractions. Its a world leader in live
theatre, a catalyst for new music and a hub
of great clubs.
Theatre
While juggernaut musicals that never seem
to end and vanity projects starring Holly-
wood glitterati draw the headlines, Londons
theatreland is more diverse than its often
given credit for. To see whats on offer, check
out the Official London Theatre Guide (www.official
londontheatre.co.uk), providing comprehensive
listings and discounts.
There are many hole-in-the-wall businesses
advertising cheap tickets but Leicester Sqs
tkts (Map pp162-3 ; www.tkts.co.uk; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat,
noon-3pm Sun; tLeicester Sq) is the only one thats
consistently reputable. Arrive in the morning
to see whats on offer (booking fee 2.50). If
youre in town during the off season usually
mid-January to mid-March dozens of thea-
tres take part in Get Into London Theatre (%0870
040 0039; www.getintolondontheatre.com), a discount
promotion with tickets for top shows running
from 15 to 30.
Royal National Theatre (Map pp162-3 ; %7452 3000;
www.nt-online.org; South Bank SE1; tickets 7-35; tWater-
loo) Running its own discount promotion in
summer, with tickets selling for 10 during
the annual Travelex promotion, the National
is Britains flagship repertory. Located on the
South Bank, this three-stage theatre combines
innovative new plays and sparkling revivals.
Shakespeares Globe (Map pp162-3 ; %7401 9919;
www.shakespeares-globe.org; 21 New Globe Walk SE1;
hMay-Oct; tMansion House/Southwark/London Bridge)
Fans of the bearded one will love taking in a
performance at the Globe, a near-perfect rep-
lica of the building where his plays were staged
from 1598 to 1611. This is al fresco theatre-in-
the-round, so make sure you bring something
warm to wear on cooler evenings. Tours and
exhibitions are also offered (see p165 ).
Live Music
Londons live rock, pop, indie and classical
music scenes hit the stage at dozens of venues
around the city. Pick up Time Out it lists
hundreds of gigs every week.
Brixton Academy (%7771 3000; www.brixton
-academy.co.uk; 211 Stockwell Rd SW9; tBrixton) Top
venue for hot bands.
Shepherds Bush Empire (%8534 3300; www
.shepherds-bush-empire.co.uk; Shepherds Bush Green
W12; tShepherds Bush) Leading large rock and pop
venue west of Hyde Park.
12 Bar Club (Map pp162-3 ; %7916 6989; www.12barclub
.com; Denmark St WC2; tTottenham Court Rd) Intimate,
with an emphasis on singer-songwriters.
Borderline (Map pp162-3 ; %7734 5547; www.mean
fiddler.com; Orange Yard, Manette St WC2; tTottenham
Court Rd) Subterranean space with rock edge.
Garage (%8963 0940; www.meanfiddler.com; 20-22
Highbury Corner N5; tHighbury & Islington) Focused
on indie acts.
Sport
Football is at the heart of English culture and
London has 11 professional teams more
than any other city in the world. While Pre-
miership high-flyers like Chelsea (%7915 2951;
www.chelseafc.com; Stamford Bridge Stadium, Fulham Rd
SW6; tickets 38-48; tFulham Broadway) and Arsenal
(%7704 4040; www.arsenal.com, Avenell Rd N5; tickets
28-50; tArsenal) attract the big crowds, its easy
(and cheaper) to catch a game at a smaller
London club like Queens Park Rangers (%0870
112 1967; www.qpr.co.uk; Loftus Rd Stadium W12; tickets
22-28; tShepherds Bush). Alternatively, con-
sider a cheap and cheerful greyhound racing
night out at Walthamstow Stadium (%8531 4255;
www.wsgreyhound.co.uk; Chingford Rd E4; admission 1-6;
tWalthamstow Central, then bus 97 or 215).
SHOPPING
Manically crowded Oxford St is lined with
generic chain stores but its far more fun to
duck down the back streets for some less
SPLURGE
Boxwood Caf (Map pp170-1 ; %7235 1010;
Wilton Pl SW1; mains 10-26; hlunch & dinner;
n; tHyde Park Corner) The stylish interi-
ors of this Gordon Ramsay restaurant belie
a surprisingly comfortable eatery with an
excellent menu of contemporary British
dishes. The seasonal offerings focus on sim-
ple preparations that reveal naturally com-
plex flavours, hence dishes like steamed
wild sea bass and fried oysters with fennel
and lemon. A nonsnooty way to enjoy a top-
class meal in haughty Knightsbridge.
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mainstream shopping. Among the more en-
joyable shopping areas in London are Cov-
ents Gardens Neals Yard for shoe shops and
clothing boutiques and the Charing Cross
Rd area between Tottenham Court Rd and
Leicester Sq for both general and specialist
bookshops.
Muji (Map pp162-3 ; %7379 0820; 135 Long Acre WC2;
tCovent Garden) Homesick language students
and budget-conscious young locals flock to
this Japanese general store whenever they have
a few pennies to spare. Despite the generally
low prices, everything from basic sweatshirts
to stainless-steel business-card holders has a
minimalist flair. There are outlets throughout
the city.
Paperchase (Map pp162-3 ; %7467 6200; 213-215
Tottenham Court Rd W1; tGoodge St) Those who
drool over stationery wont want to miss this
three-storey flagship store. Its bristling with
clever notepads, quirky journals, slick pens
and designer desk storage units.
Topshop (Map pp162-3 ; %7636 7700; 36-38 Great
Castle St W1; tOxford Circus) This giant flagship
store is a revelation to those who think they
know this chain from its high-street loca-
tions across Britain. Funky designer cop-
ies, hipster disposable fashions and low, low
prices are the reasons this megastore is always
crowded.

GETTING THERE & AWAY
For details on getting in and out of London,
see p160 .
GETTING AROUND
Boat
Londons internal boat services include Tate-
to-Tate (%7887 8888; www.tate.org.uk/tatetotate; one
way/day ticket 4.30/7.30; h10am-5pm), a ferry route
between Bankside pier at the Tate Modern
and the new Milbank pier at sister museum
Tate Britain. City Cruises (%7740 0400; www.city
cruises.com) links Greenwich and Westminster
(single/return 7/9), as well as Tower Pier and
the London Eye (single/return 6/7). Travel-
card holders (see opposite ) receive one-third
off many fares.
Public Transport
For information on Londons bus, under-
ground, Docklands Light Railway (DLR) and
mainline train services, contact Transport for
London (%7222 1234; www.tfl.gov.uk). The website
has a journey planner.
For the lowest fares on public transport, it
pays to buy an Oyster (3 returnable deposit)
prepaid fare card, purchased at tube stations.
You charge the card with cash, swipe it on
buses or at tube/train station barriers and the
fare is deducted from your balance. Oyster
fares are lower than the regular fares charged
to passengers who buy single tickets for their
journeys.
BUS & TUBE
Londons extensive bus and tube systems run
from early morning (typically 7am for buses
and 5.30am for the tube) until around mid-
night. The tube currently runs until 12.30am
Monday to Saturday and until 11.30pm Sun-
day, although at the time of writing plans
were underway to extend Friday and Saturday
night services by one hour. The single adult
fare on buses is 1.50 (80p to 1 with Oyster).
Depending on trip length, single adult fares
on the tube cost between 3 and 6.20 (1 to
5.50 with Oyster).
Travelcards provide all-day, unlimited ac-
cess to bus, tube, DLR and many mainline
train services. Adult one-day Travelcards cost
4.30 to 6.20, depending on the areas you
will be travelling in and the time of day you
will be travelling. If you use an Oyster card for
all-day travel, the card is capped so you never
pay more than the price of a Travelcard, no
matter how many trips you take. Oyster cards
can also be loaded with weekly or monthly
Travelcards for those who are staying in town
for more than a few days.
London also has a night bus system, with
Trafalgar Square, Tottenham Court Rd and
Oxford Circus its main terminals. They stop
by request and run every 10 to 20 minutes.
Your previous days Travelcard is valid on the
night bus network until 4.30am.
DLR & TRAIN
The driverless Docklands Light Railway (DLR)
runs from Bank and Tower Hill underground
stations to Canary Wharf, Stratford, Beckton,
Greenwich and Lewisham. Fares are the same
as on the tube. Mainline trains are the primary
means of transport to much of Londons sub-
urbia and their stations link with the tube.
Travelcards are valid on both systems.
Taxi
The citys black cabs (%7253 5000; h24hr booking
service) now come in a variety of colours and
can be hailed when their for hire sign is
lit. Theyre certainly not the cheapest way to
travel. You can tip drivers up to 10% but most
people round up to the nearest pound.
Although minicabs are cheaper, there is an
ongoing problem with unlicensed operators.
Do not get into a minicab if you are unsure
whether it is legitimate. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk
for a search engine of accredited operators.
These companies include Lady Cabs (%7272
3300), which employs women drivers and is
recommended for women travelling alone.
AROUND LONDON
When youre tired of London, youre tired
of life, opined arch 18th-century Londoner
Samuel Johnson. But he wasnt living in an
age when a day out on the airless tube system
can leave you tired and grouchy. Luckily, the
capital is surprisingly close to some excellent
day-out escapes.
Windsor & Eton
%01753 / pop 31,000
One of Britains largest and most imposing
medieval palaces, Windsor Castle (%020-7766 7304;
www.windsor.gov.uk; adult/child 13.50/7.50; h9.45am-
5.15pm Mar-Oct, 9.45am-4.15pm Nov-Feb) is still used
by the Queen. Visitors can enter large sec-
tions of the complex, now fully restored after
the devastating 1992 fire. Highlights include
Queen Marys giant dolls house (designed by
Sir Edward Lutyens) and St Georges Chapel,
containing the tombs of several monarchs,
including Henry VIII. The surrounding Vic-
torian town is also worth checking out, par-
ticularly for its traditional tearooms.
A short walk along Thames St and across
the river brings you to Eton College (%671177;
www.etoncollege.com; adult/child 4/3.20; h10.30am-
4.30pm mid-Marmid-Apr, 2-4.30pm mid-AprilJun,
10.30am-4.30pm Jul-Aug, 2-4.30pm Sep), the famous
public school that has educated royals and
prime ministers. Several buildings date from
when Henry VI founded the school in the
mid-15th century. Entry includes a free tour
and admission to the Museum of Eton Life,
which focuses on the world of the public
schoolboy past and present.
HOT MARKETS
Brick Lane is still the best place for a morning fried-egg sandwich, sold from a rusting roadside
van held together with layers of old cooking fat. But theres much more to Londons eclectic
street markets than a heart attack waiting to happen. The following are five great market rec-
ommendations.
Borough Market (8 Southwark St SE1; hnoon-6pm Fri, 9am-4pm Sat; tLondon Bridge) Londons
Larder, this original 13th-century farmers market is a smorgasbord of quality fresh food and
produce. Come here hungry: youll want to snack on treats like rustic pork pies and succulent
chorizo sandwiches. If you get thirsty, grab a beer in the nearby Market Porter pub.
Brick Lane Market (Brick Lane E2; h8am-2pm Sun; tAldgate East) This sprawling East End pearl is
a real hotchpotch of fake designer T-shirts, cheap razor blades and socks that are as thin as paper.
But its just as much fun to watch as it is to buy: there are still a few old-school market hawkers
here and their lively banter is always entertaining. Arrive early to avoid the bottleneck crowds.
Camden Market (Camden High St NW1; h10am-6pm; tCamden Town) A cosmopolitan grab bag
of several markets lining the High St, north of central London, this colourful area is great for
local arts, trendy crafts and cheap souvenirs. There are some excellent outdoor food stands
serving heaping ethnic dishes for just a few quid along with fun vintage clothes stalls under
the railway arches.
Portobello Rd Market (Map pp170-1 ; Portobello Rd W10; h8am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 8am-1pm Thu;
tNotting Hill Gate/Ladbroke Grove) Like a giant open-air bric-a-brac museum, this clutch of markets
specialises in browsable used goods, including vintage clothes and funky costume jewellery. Since
this is chichi Notting Hill, there are also plenty of tasty takeaway treats that are a cut above the
burger stands of other markets.
Spitalfields Market (Commercial St, E1; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri & Sun; tLiverpool St) A favourite among
Londoners, theres a youthful, intelligent vibe to this lovely covered Victorian market between
Brushfield and Lamb Sts. Youll find cool stuff like funky new fashions and retro furniture alongside
craft jewellery and handmade soaps. The twice-weekly food market (Wednesday and Sunday) is
a delightful feast of organic beer, piquant cheeses and chocolate croissants.
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Direct trains from London Waterloo arrive
at Windsor & Eton Riverside twice hourly (7,
one hour). Trains from London Paddington
also arrive regularly at Windsor and Eton
Central (7.10, 25 minutes), but require you
to change at Slough.
SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
A large swathe of the UK population lives in
one of the five Home Counties in this region,
so even small towns can feel busy. This is
especially true on summer weekends, when
high-street shopping becomes a clamorous
contact sport. Luckily, respite is never more
than a few miles away in sleepy pub-strewn
villages, handsome castle complexes and
patchwork rolling countryside. For informa-
tion, contact Tourism South East (%023-8062 5400;
www.visitsoutheastengland.com).
CANTERBURY
%01227 / pop 43,552
With its jaw-dropping, multispired cathedral
surrounded by cobbled medieval streets, this
Unesco World Heritage city has been a popu-
lar pilgrimage site for Christians and tourists
for centuries. Latter-day visitors they almost
overwhelm the area in summer come to
immerse themselves in religious and secular
history, including Thomas Beckets murder
and the bawdy works of Geoffrey Chaucer.
But this is no mothballed outdoor museum:
Canterbury is a surprisingly vibrant centre
and a good base for exploring the regions
quaint villages, gentle valleys and colourful
coastline.
Orientation & Information
Almost enclosed by a medieval wall and fully
surrounded by a modern ring road, the his-
toric centre of Canterbury is compact enough
to explore on foot, which is just as well since
many of its ancient streets are closed to cars.
The bus station is within the old city walls on
St Georges Lane but the two train stations
Canterbury East and Canterbury West
are a few minutes walk from the ancient
perimeter.
The TIC (Tourist Information Centre; %378100; www
.canterbury.co.uk; 12-13 Sun St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Easter, 10am-4pm Sun
Easter-Dec) is opposite the cathedral. Free inter-
net access is available at the Library (%463608;
High St; h9.30am-6pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 9.30am-7pm Tue,
8.30am-7pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat).
Sights
Barely surviving major fires in 1067 and 1174,
Canterbury Cathedral (%762862; www.canterbury
-cathedral.org; adult/child 6/4.50, tour 4/2; h9am-
6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2.30pm & 4.30-5.30pm Sun Apr-Oct,
9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm & 4.30-5.30pm Sun Nov-Mar)
embodies Britains tumultuous and frequently
bloody religious history. Following the 1170
martyrdom of Thomas Becket in the north-
west transept, the site became Europes top
spot for pilgrims and it remains the spiritual
centre of todays Church of England. Its easy
to spend a couple of hours marvelling at the
Early English architecture here, but its worth
taking a one-hour tour to hear the stories
behind the stonework.
Illuminating the citys earlier history, Canter-
burys Roman Museum (%785575; Butchery Lane; adult/
child2.90/1.80; h10am-5pmMon-Sat year-round, 1.30-5pm
SunJun-Oct) is located underground at the level of
the original settlement. Its a fascinating mix of
excavated artefacts and clever reconstructions
check out the mosaic remains and the smells in
the Roman kitchen and visitors are encour-
aged to handle some of the displays and use
their deductive skills as archaeologists.
Sleeping
Summer is ultracrowded in Canterbury, so
book ahead.
Kipps Independent Hostel (%786121; www.kipps
-hostel.com; 40 Nunnery Fields; camp sites per person 6.50,
dm/s/d 14/19/33; ni) This good-value back-
packer joint, a few minutes from the city
centre, combines the warmth of a family-run
property with great facilities. Internet access
(per 30 minutes 1), a games room and a tuck
shop are available, plus a wide array of room
types dorms have a maximum of eight beds
and camping spots are offered.
YHA Hostel (%462911; www.yha.org.uk; 54 New
Dover Rd; dm 17.50; ni) A splendid Victorian
Gothic pile that looks as though it should
be haunted, this 69-bed YHA is now open
year-round and is less than a mile from Can-
terbury East train station. The ambience is
institutional and the facilities TV lounge,
games room, shop and cycle storage are a
notch above basic.
Cathedral Gate Hotel (%464381; www.cathgate
.co.uk; 36 Burgate; s 26-60, d 50-90; n) An amazing
location just a hop, skip and jump from the
cathedral for this labyrinthine 15th-century
property. The rooms offer a grab-bag of his-
toric quirks interior beams and wonky floors
are common but all have fairly modern, if
slightly worn furnishings. The basic, 3rd-
floor rooms have shared facilities but are a
bargain.
Eating & Drinking
Canterbury centre is full of cheap-eat cafs
and there are some great old-world pubs.
Caf St Pierre (%456791; 41 St Peters St; baguettes
3.50; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5.30pm Sun) This
welcoming French eatery with popular
people-watching seating out the back has
fresh-baked pastries, baguettes and quiches.
Its perfect for a mid-morning snack or lunch
to go as you meander towards the cathedral.
The Goods Shed (%459153; Station Rd; mains 8.50-
22; hmarket 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, restaurant noon-2.30pm
& 6-9pm Tue-Sun; n) Adjacent to Canterbury
West train station, this converted Victorian
warehouse is a must-visit for those craving
great food. Sourcing fine seasonal ingredients
from its on-site daily farmers market, the
restaurants ever-changing menu has a rustic
brasserie approach.
Thomas Becket (%464384; 21 Best Lane; mains 5-9)
Probably Canterburys best traditional bar,
this textbook English pub comes complete
with a roaring fireplace and a coterie of copper
pots. A good spot to hunker in a corner and
work your way through the local ales.
Getting There & Away
National Express bus services arrive through-
out the day from London Victoria (11.40,
two hours) and Dover (4.30, 40 minutes).
The Stagecoach East Kent (%0870 243 3711) bus
115 service also arrives hourly (less frequently
on Sunday) from Dover (2.90, 35 minutes).
Train services from London Victoria (18.30,
90 minutes) arrive at either Canterbury West
or Canterbury East stations, while services
from London Charing Cross and London
Waterloo (18.30, 90 minutes) arrive only at
Canterbury West. Trains from Dover Priory
(5.20, 15 to 30 minutes) arrive at Canterbury
East twice an hour.
DOVER
%01305 / pop 34,087
The definition of a gateway town, the bright-
est thing about Dover is its signature white
cliffs. The rest aside from a visit-worthy
medieval castle is an uninspiring melange
of ferry port access routes.
Ferry departures are from the Eastern
Docks while Dover Priory train station is
a short walk west of the city centre, just off
Folkestone Rd. The bus station is more cen-
tral, on Pencester Rd.
The city centre TIC (%205108; www.whitecliffs
country.org.uk; Old Town Gaol, Biggin St; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) provides accommoda-
tion, ferry and bus booking services.
One of Englands mightiest medieval for-
tresses, Dover Castle (%211067; adult/child 9.50/4.80;
h10am-6pm daily April-Jul & Sep, 9.30am-6.30pm daily Aug,
10am-5pm daily Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Jan, 10am-4pm
daily Feb & Mar) occupies a spectacular hilltop
promontory dripping with history. There are
Roman, Saxon and Norman remains here but
its the sites more recent past that attracts
many visitors. Expanded during WWII, the
castles labyrinth of secret Napoleonic tunnels
was used as an Allied command post during
the evacuation of Dunkirk. Entry includes a
colourful 50-minute underground tour of this
fascinating complex.
Castle St and Maison Dieu Rd are B&B hot
spots. Dover YHA (%0870 770 5798; dover@yha.org
.uk; 306 London Rd; dm 17.50; ni) is in a slightly
run-down Georgian townhouse, 15 minutes
walk from the bus and train stations. East Lee
Guest House (%210176; www.eastlee.co.uk; 108 Maison
Dieu Rd; s/d from 35/52; n) is a flower-fronted
Victorian heritage house with chintzy rooms
and a veggie-friendly breakfast menu.
If you get hungry later in the day, head
to Cullins Yard (%211666; 11 Cambridge Rd; mains
6-18; hlunch & dinner). Popular with the locals,
this waterfront bistro specialises in regional
seafood but also serves traditional British
dishes like beef and ale casserole with a dash
of gourmet flair.
Getting There & Away
National Express buses arrive twice-hourly
from London Victoria (11.50, three hours)
and also several times a day from Canterbury
(4.30, 40 minutes). Regular Stagecoach East
Kent buses arrive from Brighton (5.50, three
hours) throughout the day.
Train services arrive several times an hour
at Dover Priory station from London Victoria
(22, two hours) and every hour from London
Charing Cross (22, two hours). See p154
for details of ferry services from mainland
Europe.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 176 177
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BRIGHTON & HOVE
%01273 / pop 247,820
While many of Englands crumbling sea-
side resorts are paint-peeled reminders of
an era when most Brits used to vacation
at local beaches, Brighton which merged
with nearby Hove in 2000 has successfully
moved on from deck chairs and donkey rides.
Now one of the countrys hippest cities, it
has a vibrant cultural scene and a youthful
bohemian edge that makes up for a 7-mile
stretch of beach thats completely covered
with stones.
Orientation & Information
The seafront is a 10-minute downhill stroll
from the train station along Queens Rd
and West St. When you arrive at the beach,
Brighton Pier is to your left. A few streets
back from the front, youll find the Lanes and
North Laine shopping areas. Hove is west of
the city centre.
The TIC (%292590; www.visitbrighton.com; Bar-
tholomew Sq; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-
4pm Sun) has maps and listings magazines.
Between Hove and Brighton, Internet Junction
(109 Western Rd; per hr 2.50; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
8pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) offers Web access.
Sights
Built in the early 19th century for the play-
boy Prince Regent, the onion-domed Royal
Pavilion (%290900; www.royalpavilion.org.uk; adult/
child 6.10/3.60, guided tours 1.25; h9.30am-5.45pm
Apr-Sep, 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar, tours 11.30am & 2.30pm)
is an over-the-top fusion of faux Asian in-
teriors and flamboyant period furnishings.
Among the near-obscene displays of languid
decadence, theres a comparatively discreet
tearoom and a permanent exhibition on the
palaces turbulent conservation history.
Brightons original fishing village is now
known as The Lanes, a narrow, cobblestone web
of 17th-century cottages housing independent
shops, restaurants and pubs. Renowned for its
one-of-a-kind eateries, its more gentrified
than the adjacent North Laine area, which has
a funkier, alternative vibe. Along streets of
multicoloured shops, this avant-garde area
offers used record stores, vegetarian cafs and
retro skater fashions.
The landmark Brighton Pier (%609361; www
.brightonpier.co.uk; admission free; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu,
10am-11pm Fri-Sun) is a suitably brash reminder
of Englands simple, seaside-loving past. Its
white-painted exterior houses noisy arcades,
takeaway food stands and like a fairground
on a stick a clutch of thrill rides and tradi-
tional attractions, including a helter-skelter
and ghost train.
Sleeping
Traditional B&Bs and swanky boutique hotels
line the streets near Brighton Pier. Book ahead
during summer.
St Christophers Inn (%020-7407 1856; www.st
-christophers.co.uk; 10-12 Grand Junction Rd; dm 10-27, s/d
from 25; ni) A great waterfront location
for this bustling, party-lovers hostel. The
dorms have up to 10 beds and all have en suite
facilities. Theres no kitchen free continental
breakfast is included but there are good food
and drinks specials at the hopping downstairs
bar. Guests with extra money can upgrade to
a hotel room on the upper floors.
Baggies Backpackers (%733740; 33 Oriental Pl; dm/d
12/30; n) A popular, laid-back budget option
with a good vibe, Baggies has a communal
feel and is close to the seafront. Attracting
long-termers as well as short-stop visitors,
its a little worn but everything is clean and
functional. Dorm rooms are mostly small but
shower rooms are shared, which may be an
issue for shy travellers.
Paskins Town House (%601203; www.paskins.co.uk;
18-19 Charlotte St; s/d per person from 27.50; n) This
excellent 19-room B&B occupies two Vic-
torian townhouses and has a commendable
eco-friendly stance; the organic traditional
or veggie breakfasts are a nice touch. Its emin-
ently comfortable rooms are designed in Re-
gency, pop culture or Art Deco styles and
some have four-poster beds.
oNeo Hotel (%711104; www.neohotel.com; 19
Oriental Pl; s/d from 45/85; ni) At the forefront
of Brightons new wave of boutique proper-
ties, this artsy sophisticated spot near the
West Pier combines modern Asian design
flourishes with cosy home comforts. The
mostly en suite bathrooms feature chrome
and matte black finishes and the breakfasts
check out the pancakes are clearly made
with love. This may be the future of the vener-
able British B&B.
Eating
Unlike most British seaside resorts, Brighton
has much more to offer than limp fish and
chips. The Lanes is a good area for foodie
exploring.
Nia Caf (%671 1371; 87 Trafalgar St; mains 6-14;
h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) A smashing
lunch spot for those craving more than a
vacuum-packed sandwich sesame chicken
fillet is recommended this funky spot at-
tracts chin-stroking trendies to its school
desk interiors and popular outdoor seating
area. This is also a good afternoon cappuc-
cino spot but beware of the tempting cake
selection.
Momma Cherris Big House (%325305; 2-3 Little
East St; mains 8-11; hlunch & dinner) Recently open-
ing this second outlet opposite the original,
Mommas is a riot of colourful interiors and
exuberant dishes guaranteed to spice up any
seaside day. The Southern-style jerk chicken
and jambalaya are great but for those who
havent eaten in a month, the two-course
Soul in a Bowl dinner is recommended.
Terre Terre (%729051; 71 East St; mains 12-14;
hlunch & dinner Wed-Sun, dinner only Tue) Moving the
vegetarian menu away from grungy, stomach-
sticking lentil roasts, this creative veggie-
restaurant does enough to satisfy the most
ardent carnivores. Check out the Parmesan
dumplings.
Drinking & Entertainment
Among Brightons pubs, the Hop Poles
(%710444; 13 Middle St) has an arty, laid-back
vibe. Its gastropub menu is a plus but theres
also a selection of candy behind the bar for
those who like to nibble chocolate with their
cask ale.
For clubbers, Beach (%722272; 171-181 Kings Rd
Arches; admission 3-10) is welcoming, mainstream
think 70s and house nights and massively
popular: arrive early on weekends because the
queues can be enormous.
One of the citys best gay bars, the Queens
Arms (%686873; 7 George St) is a kitsch-colourful
spot with a plethora of cabaret and karaoke
nights to keep the regulars happy.
Getting There & Away
Megabus services arrive from London Vic-
toria (from 1, 2 hours) three times a day,
while National Express buses also arrive
twice hourly from London Victoria (10, 2
hours). The company runs frequent daily air-
port services from London Heathrow (20,
two hours) and London Gatwick (6.40,
45 minutes).
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TRANSPORT
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DRINKING
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SLEEPING
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
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INFORMATION
Bus Station......................... C3
Queen's Arms................... D3
Hop Poles.......................... C3
Beach................................. B3
Terre Terre...................... C3
Nia Caf............................. C1
Momma Cherri's Big House.. C3
St Christopher's Inn............. C3
Neo Hotel............................ A2
Baggies Backpackers............ A3
Royal Pavilion...................... C3
Brighton Pier........................ D3
TIC...................................... C3
Post Office........................... A2
Internet Junction.................. A2
BRIGHTON
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 178 179
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Frequent daily direct train services arrive
from London Victoria (17.30, 1 hours)
and London Bridge (13.50, one hour) sta-
tions. Theres also an hourly service from Ports-
mouth (13.80, two hours) and a twice-hourly
service from Dover (24.50, 2 hours).
PORTSMOUTH
%023 / pop 187,056
Streets of uninspiring shops fill Portsmouths
centre, so visitors can avoid the unnecessary
spadework and head straight for the historic
waterfront. The spiritual home of Britains
Royal Navy, Portsmouth has a salty, richly
storied past thats still much in evidence.
Orientation & Information
Portsmouths southern Southsea district
houses many of the citys best restaurants,
pubs and accommodation but the har-
bourfront area on the west side site of the
bus station and the end of the train line from
London is its historic heart. This cobble-
stoned patch is the site of Portsmouths major
maritime attractions.
The main harbourfront TIC (%9282 6722; www
.visitportsmouth.co.uk; The Hard; h9.30am-5.45pmApr-Sep,
9.30am-5.15pm Oct-Mar) has an accommodation
booking service (2). The Central Library (%9281
9311; Guildhall Sq; h9am-7pmMon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat, 12.30-
4pm Sun) offers free internet access.
Sights
Dripping with seafaring heritage, Ports-
mouths Historic Dockyard (%9286 1512; www
.flagship.org.uk; all-inclusive ticket adult/child 15.50/12.50;
h10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar) is the final
resting place for a gaggle of prized vessels.
The remains of the Mary Rose (adult/child 9.70/8),
Henry VIIIs favourite warship, provide an
object lesson in shipwreck preservation. In
contrast, the handsome, fully intact decks
of HMS Victory (adult/child 9.70/8), Lord Nelsons
Battle of Trafalgar flagship, memorialises
Britains greatest naval hero and his famous
win against the French. Lacking the historic
provenance of the other two vessels, HMS War-
rior (adult/child 9.70/8), the worlds first all-iron
battleship, colourfully evokes life aboard ship
in the Victorian era.
Sleeping & Eating
Southsea is a hotbed of B&B and dine-out
action, but there are also some good options
in Old Portsmouth.
Southsea Backpackers Lodge (%9283 2495; www
.portsmouthbackpackers.co.uk; 4 Florence Rd, Southsea; dm
13, d 30-34; ni) A quiet, comfortable at-
mosphere permeates this large, labyrinthine
Victorian house in a residential side street
near the seafront. The wooden-bedded dorms
are mostly small and theres satellite TV and
coin-operated internet access (per half-hour
1) in the lounge.
Sailmakers Loft (%9282 3045; 5 Bath Sq; s/d 25/55;
ni) This small, recently renovated B&B is
run by a retired merchant seaman with plenty
of salty stories about old Portsmouth. Its lo-
cated on a cobblestone seafront promontory
of character-filled taverns and ancient houses,
and youll likely awake to the sound of seagulls
hovering overhead. Some of the rooms have
great harbour views.
Sallyport Tea Rooms (%9281 6265; 35 Broad St; mains
2.50-5.50; h10am-5pm; n) This charmingly old-
fashioned tea nook is an ideal retreat. Tuck
into a large pot of Earl Grey and a fruit bun
while gentle jazz plays in the background.
Its also a good lunch spot the freshly made
sandwiches are a treat.
Getting There & Away
Direct daily National Express buses arrive
from London Victoria (14, two to three
hours) and Heathrow airport (14, two to
four hours). Theres also a regular service
from Brighton (3.20, 3 hours). Megabus
services arrive from London Victoria (from
1, 2 hours) and the discount operator also
offers cheap train services under its Mega-
train banner from London Waterloo (from
1, 2 hours). There are regular-priced trains
every 10 minutes or so from London Victo-
ria and London Waterloo (from 23, 1 to
2 hours), plus hourly trains from Brighton
(13.80, 90 minutes).
WINCHESTER
%01962 / pop 107,213
Dripping with ancient sights and attractions,
the capital of Saxon England is a history-
lovers dream. Its bustling city centre is easy
to explore on foot but make sure you duck
down the backstreets behind the chain stores
to find the historic gems.
The train station is a 10-minute walk west
of the centre, and the bus station is on Broad-
way, opposite the TIC (%840500; www.visitwinchester
.co.uk; Guildhall, Broadway; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
11am-4pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr).
Jamies Internet Cafe (%870880; 10 Parchment St; per
hr 3; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) offers Web access.
Sights
Dont miss glorious Winchester Cathedral
(%857200; www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk; 1 The Close;
suggested donation 4; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-
5.30pm Sun, free tours 10am-3pm Mon-Sat), a multicol-
umned melange of architectural styles and
the final resting place of Jane Austen, whose
discreet gravestone resides on the naves north
side.
The nearby flint-walled Great Hall (%846476;
www.hants.gov.uk/discover/places/great-hall.html; Castle Ave;
admission free; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Feb)
is all that remains of a gargantuan 11th-cen-
tury castle destroyed in 1651. It houses the
multicoloured King Arthurs Round Table, a
med ieval commemorative artefact created to
celebrate the legendary monarch long after
his reputed reign.
Sleeping & Eating
With the recent closure of Winchesters YHA
hostel, budget accommodation is hard to
come by here.
Mrs Blockleys (%852073; roseyblockley@uwclub.net;
54 St Cross Rd; s 30, d 52-60; n) This cosy B&B with
three rooms and a large shared bathroom is
one of the towns best-value sleepovers. Its a
15-minute walk from the centre.
Bethany House (%862188; www.bethanyhousebandb
.co.uk; 114 Christchurch Rd; s/d 45/65; n) Housed in
a large former convent thats been expertly
renovated with rustic chic ambience, Bethany
is also a 15-minute walk from the centre.
Forte Tea Rooms (%856840; 78 Parchment St; mains
3-7; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) For a good-value
feed, head to this chatter-filled upstairs nook
with well-priced home-style dishes, a warm-
ing atmosphere and a small shelf of well-
thumbed travel books.
Alternatively, head for a beer at the Wyke-
ham Arms (%853834; 75 Kingsgate St; mains 5-13;
hlunch & dinner), Winchesters favourite pub.
Its a charming combination of trinket-packed
old-world dcor, fine regional ales and a food
menu thats far above the usual bar fare.
Getting There & Away
Direct National Express buses arrive in Win-
chester centre from London Victoria (12.60,
two hours). Four Megabus services run daily
from London Victoria to St Catherines Park
& Ride (from 1, 90 minutes), a 10-minute
local bus ride from the centre. Direct trains
arrive throughout the day from London
Waterloo (22, one hour) and Portsmouth
(7.90, one hour).
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
With two of Englands best moorland parks
South Devons Dartmoor and North Devons
Exmoor and some superbly craggy coastal
walks, the balmy Southwest is one of Eng-
lands most attractive regions. But its not
all about the outdoors here. History fans will
enjoy medieval Salisbury, while nearby Stone-
henge and Averbury recall the mysteries of
older civilisations. The regions main cities,
Bath and Bristol, can keep most visitors busy
for days. For information, contact South West
Tourism (%0870 442 0880; www.visitsouthwest.co.uk).
SALISBURY
%01722 / pop 43.355
While you cant turn around in Salisbury
without seeing a preserved antique pile, this
busy market town is far from being a moth-
balled historic theme park.
The centre is a 10-minute walk from the
train station along Fisherton St, and is eas-
ily negotiated on foot. The welcoming TIC
(%334956; www.visitsalisbury.com; Fish Row; h9am-
5pm Mon-Sat year-round, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun May-Sep)
has a free accommodation booking service
and theres a nearby library (%324145; Market Pl;
h10am-7pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 9am-5pm Thu
& Sat) with free internet access
Beneath its wedding-cake spire, Salisbury
Cathedral (%555120; www.salisburycathedral.org.uk;
suggested donation adult/child 4/2; h7.15am-6.15pm)
is one of Britains finest Gothic churches.
Free tours run throughout the day, high-
lighting the intricate stonework interior of
flying buttresses and arching vaulted ceil-
ings. Restore the crick in your neck in the
octagonal chapter house, before heading out
into cathedral close, an impressive perimeter
of medieval houses.
Find out what happened to the regions first
cathedral by taking a 10-minute bus ride (bus
3, 5, 6, 8 or 9) to Old Sarum Castle (%335398; adult/
child 2.90/1.50; h10am-4pm Mar & Oct, 10am-5pm Apr-Jun
& Sep, 9am-6pm Jul-Aug, 11am-3pm Nov-Feb), an Iron
Age settlement abandoned in 1217. Bricks
from the original church here were used to
build Salisburys new cathedral.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 180 181
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The towns accommodation options
dim inish in summer when the Stonehenge-
bound coach parties arrive. Salisbury YHA Hostel
(%327572; salisbury@yha.org.uk; Milford Hill; dm 17.50-
20.50, s/d with shared bathroom 20.50/40.50; ni) is
in a country house offering solid institutional
facilities, a bonus cooked breakfast and small
dorms. Spire House (%339213; lois.faulkner@talk21
.com; 84 Exeter St; d/tw 60/80; n) is close to the
cathedral and has brass beds, sparkling bath-
rooms and gourmet breakfasts.
There are several good-value eateries in
central Salisbury. Among the best are Suzettes
Pancake Caf (%326966; 4 Fish Row; mains 3-4; h9am-
6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun), which specialises in
crepe-wrapped light meals with ingredients
like brie and bacon; and Anokaa (%414142; 60
Fisherton St; mains 7-15; hlunch & dinner), a modern
Indian restaurant with a great-value all-you-
can-eat lunch buffet (7.25).
Getting There & Away
Three direct National Express buses arrive
daily from London Victoria (14, three to
3 hours) via Heathrow (14, two to 2
hours). One daily service also arrives from
Bath (8.30, 1 hours) and another from
Bristol (8.30, two hours). Trains arrive every
30 minutes from London Waterloo (24.20,
1 hours). Theres also an hourly service from
Portsmouth (12.50, 1 hours).
STONEHENGE & AVEBURY
Cursed by years of poor site management,
Stonehenge (%0870 333 1181; www.english-heritage
.org.uk/stonehenge; adult/child 5.90/3; h9.30am-6pm
mid-MarchMay, 9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 9.30am-6pm Sepmid-
Oct, 9.30am-4pm mid-Octmid-Mar) can be an under-
whelming experience. Most come hoping to
feel the sites spooky mysticism or marvel at
the engineering project that brought these
huge rocks from a Welsh quarry up to 5000
years ago. The reality is a stubbly field next to
a noisy main road housing a roped-off area
where the ring which may be an ancient cal-
endar or place of pagan worship sits sullen
and unloved. The best time to arrive is early
morning: watching the sun filter between
the upright stones can still create a flicker
of eeriness, especially if you pan around to
the ancient burial mounds dotting Salisbury
Plain.
Wilts and Dorset public bus 3 travels to
Stonehenge from Salisbury every 15 minutes
in summer (6.50 return). The best deal is a
one-day Explorer pass (6.50), enabling you
to take in Avebury.
Older and more eerily tranquil than Stone-
henge, Avebury (%01672-539250; admission free) is
one of Britains largest stone circles, com-
pletely surrounding the pretty village of the
same name thats been here for centuries.
The 100 stones are smaller than Stonehenges
but the site is far larger and visitors can move
around without restriction. For some con-
text, check out the Alexander Keiller Museum
(%01672-539250; adult/child 4.20/2.10; h10am-6pm
Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar), which explores the
regions mysterious past.
Hourly Wilts and Dorset public buses 5
and 6 travel to Avebury from Salisbury (6.50
return).
DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK
Theres an undeniably haunting beauty to
this bleak south Devon moor that encourages
trek-loving visitors to quietly commune with
the landscape as if theyre meeting Mother
Nature face-to-face.
The 368-sq-mile park is a hikers paradise
but with changeable weather its not a place
to stroll unprepared. Princetown, the moors
largest village, houses the regions main High
Moorland Visitor Centre (%01822-890414; Tavistock Rd;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar). There are
additional centres in Haytor (%01364-665120;
h10am-5pm Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun only Nov-
Easter), Postbridge (%01822-880272; h10am-5pm
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter) and New-
bridge (%01364-631303; h10am-5pm Easter-Oct, 10am-
4pm Sat & Sun only Nov-Easter).
Most visitors stick to the eastern side of the
park where the main settlements are, while
serious hikers prefer the quieter western edge.
For further information, contact the Dartmoor
Tourist Association (%01822-890567; www.discover
dartmoor.com).
As for accommodation: its generally ac-
ceptable to camp in the park but not in areas
enclosed by walls, within sight of roads or
houses, or near heavily trafficked areas. For
a real bed, try Bellever YHA Hostel (%0870 770
5692; bellever@yha.org.uk; Bellever; dm 13.95; n), an
imposing stone farmhouse that offers tran-
quil accommodation in mostly small dorms.
Theres a 1 discount for those arriving on
foot, by bike or bus bus 82 from Plymouth
to Exeter stops in nearby Postbridge. Alter-
natively, Okehampton YHA Hostel (%0870 770
5978; okehampton@yha.org.uk; Klondyke Rd, Okehampton;
dm 15.50; n), on the northern edge of the
park, is an activity centre combining stand-
ard facilities with archery, pony trekking and
gorge scrambling.
Getting There & Away
Transmoor Link bus 82 (three daily Monday
to Saturday, five Sunday, weekends only in
winter) runs across Dartmoor between Ply-
mouth and Exeter via Postbridge, Princetown
and Yelverton. Contact Devon Bus (%01392-
382800; www.devon.gov.uk/buses) for information.
EXMOOR NATIONAL PARK
Within its 265 sq miles, North Devons Ex-
moor offers dramatic sea cliffs, tree-lined
copses and romantically expansive moorland.
Its attractive villages include Porlock, Dunster
and Selworthy, and the Southwest Coast Path
between Minehead and Padstow is one of its
well-marked walking routes.
The parks five visitor centres include the
main facility in Dulverton (%01398-323841; Fore St;
hyear-round), as well as centres in Combe Martin
(%01271-883319; 13 Cross St; hApr-Oct), County Gate
(%01598-741321; A39 Countisbury, near Lynton; hApr-
Oct), Dunster (%01643-821835; Dunster Steep; hApr-
Oct) and Lynmouth (%01598-752509; The Esplanade;
hApr-Oct). For information, contact Greater
Exmoor Tourism (www.visit-exmoor.info).
There are comfortable but basic YHA hos-
tels in Lynton (%0870 770 5942; lynton@yha.org.uk;
dm 11.95; hApr-Oct; n), Exford (%0870 770 5828;
exford@yha.org.uk; Exe Mead; dm 12.95; n) and Mine-
head (%0870 770 5968; minehead@yha.org.uk; Alcombe
Combe; dm 11.95; n). Among the guesthouse
options, recommendations include Lyntons
charming Sinai House (%01598-753227; www.sinai
house.co.uk; Lynway; s/d per person 27-36; n) and
Porlocks delightfully thatched Myrtle Cottage
(%01643-862978; bob.steer@virgin.net; High St; s/d per
person 20-30; n).
Getting There & Away
Three direct National Express buses travel
daily from London Victoria (27.50, 5
hours) to Barnstaple, outside the parks west-
ern edge. From here, take the local bus 307
(1 hours) to Dulverton or bus 309 or 310 to
Lynton (one hour).
Frequent trains arrive in Exeter from Lon-
don Paddington (from 26.50, two to three
hours). From here, pick up the Tarka Line
train to Barnstaple (10.80, one hour, 12 daily
Monday to Saturday, six daily Sunday).
CORNWALL
Penzance
%01736 / pop 20,260
At the end of the rail line from London, Pen-
zance is larger and scruffier than its Cornish
neighbours. But there are several good reasons
to drop by, including a sea-bound historic
castle and a bracing coastal cliff hike.
The TIC (%362207; www.visit-westcornwall.com;
Station Approach; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat,
10am-1pm Sun May-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun
Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Oct-Apr) is opposite
the train station.
St Michaels Mount (%710507; www.stmichaels
mount.co.uk; Marazion; adult/child 6/3; h10.30am-5.30pm
Sun-Fri Mar-Oct), a 12th-century castle complex
on a tree-covered island off the coast, is well
worth a visit. It has beautiful baronial rooms, a
lovely priory church and subtropical hanging
gardens. You can walk across at low tide and
there are ferries at high tide in summer.
Walkers should also check out the 17-mile
stretch of the South West Coast National Trail
(%01752-896237; www.southwestcoastpath.com) be-
tween Penzance and Lands End. Head west
along the windswept cliffs towards the tip of
Englands craggy boot for beautiful bays and
a symphony of crashing waves.
In a Georgian mansion 1.5 miles from the
train station, Penzance YHA Hostel (%0870 770
5992; penzance@yha.org.uk; Castle Horneck, Alverton; dm
15.50; ni) has great coastal views and its
facilities include bike storage and a small
library. Theres also a wooded garden and
some camping spots.
Alternatively, the Chy-an-Mor Hotel (%363411;
www.chyanmoor.co.uk; Regent Tce; s/d from 36/60; n) is
a charming listed townhouse B&B with 10
elegantly decorated guestrooms, many with
views across Mounts Bay. Its a 10-minute
walk to the town centre.
Central Penzance has a handful of good
eating spots, including Yam Parlour (%366740;
36 Causewayhead; mains 5-8.50; hlunch, dinner & Sat
breakfast), a convivial vegetarian caf where
non-veggies are happy to eat. The ever-
changing menu can range from mushroom ra-
violi to squash and coconut curry, and theres
a dinnertime BYOB option.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Five direct National Express buses arrive daily
in Penzance from London Victoria (35.50,
nine hours), while two direct services also
arrive from Newquay (5, 1 hours) and two
182 183
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from Bristol (37, 6 hours). Hourly direct
train services arrive from London Paddington
(67, 5 hours) throughout the day.
Lands End
%01736
Check out the end of Britain as it crumbles
into the sea here. If youre feeling adventur-
ous, take the coastal path for about 3 miles to
Porthcurnos open-air Minack Theatre (%810181;
www.minack.com; adult/child 2.50/1; h9.30am-5.30pm
Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar). Dramatically carved
into a cliff, its open year-round for visitors
and stages a roster of plays and musicals from
May to September (tickets 6 to 7.50).
Accommodation recommendations include
Whitesands Lodge (%871776; www.whitesandslodge
.co.uk; Sennen; camp sites per tent 6.50, dm/s/d 12.50/22/44;
i), a relaxing holiday spot with tent pitches,
dorm accommodation and B&B private
rooms. It offers guest activities including
surfing, yoga and horse riding. Lands End YHA
Hostel (%0870 770 5906; Letcha Vean, St Just-in-Penwith;
dm 14; hApr-Oct, Nov-Mar by appointment) is a remote
property with small dorms and commanding
sea views but no laundry facilities.
Bus 1 from Penzance to Lands End (one
hour, hourly) also stops at Porthcurno, pro-
viding a late-night exit after the shows at the
Minack Theatre. Bus 300 runs between Lands
End and St Ives (1 hours, four daily).
St Ives
%01736 / pop 9870
The train from St Erth to St Ives passes curving
sandy bays and paradise-blue waters before
drawing towards a clutch of stone cottages.
Ask at the TIC (%796297; www.visit-westcornwall.com;
Guildhall, Street-an-Pol; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm
Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat
Oct-May) for accommodation assistance.
St Ives streets are stuffed with artist-run
galleries but its the Tate St Ives (%796226; www
.tate.org.uk; Porthmeor Beach; adult/child5.50/free; h10am-
5.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Feb) that is the focal
point. The southwest satellite of the London
gallery showcases the work of local artists.
For those whod prefer to hit the waves,
consider taking lessons from Shore Surf
(%755556; www.shoresurf.com; half-/full day 20/35) in
nearby Hayle it operates a free minibus to
get you around the area.
St Ives International Backpackers (%799444;
www.backpackers.co.uk/st-ives; The Stennack; dm 11-
17;i) is a large, central hostel occupying
a former Wesleyan chapel. Theres nothing
holy about its grungy interior, funky coloured
walls and basic rooms but its popular with
summer surfers.
A dine-out highlight is the Seafood Caf
(%794004; 45 Fore St; mains 5-15; hlunch & dinner),
a modern, good-value bistro near the har-
bourfront. One of the best places in town to
sample locally caught seafood, its a cheap
lunch spot and a gourmet dinner option that
never loses its low-key, informal approach.
National Express buses arrive in St Ives from
London Victoria (35.50, 8 hours, five daily),
Plymouth (6.50, three hours, four daily) and
Newquay (5, 1hour, two daily). St Ives is on
a pretty branch line from St Erth (3.20, 15
minutes, twice hourly) that hooks up with the
main LondonPenzance train route.
Newquay
%01637 / pop 19,570
The UKs surfing capital, Newquay seems like
a giant, open-air nightclub in summer when
party-loving drinkers throng the streets. If
youre just here for the waves, youll meet
plenty of like-minded souls on the 11 sandy
stretches around town, especially the ever-
popular Fistral Beach to the west and the learner-
friendly Watergate Bay to the east.
The TIC (%854020; www.newquay.co.uk; Marcus Hill;
h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun, reduced hours
in winter) is near the bus station. There are surf
shops dotted around the town, including the
recommended Offshore Extreme (%877083; www
.offshore-extreme.co.uk; 6 Pentire Ave; per day from 12).
Newquay has many competing hostels, in-
cluding the bright and modern town-centre
Reef Surf Lodge (%879058; www.reefsurflodge.info;
10-12 Berry Rd; per person 15-30; i). Most of its
dorms, each with CD players and TVs, are
tiny but the facilities are superior and in-
clude a bar, licensed restaurant and regular
live music shows. Twin and en suites are
available for those who want to upgrade but
watch out for the annoying muzak playing in
the corridors.
Other recommendations:
Original Backpackers (%874668; www.original
backpackers.co.uk; 16 Beachfield Ave; dm 8-17) This
comfortable 25-year-old backpacker joint, complete with
cosy 1970s interiors, overlooks Towan Beach.
Boarding House (%873258; www.theboardinghouse
.co.uk; 32 Headland Rd; dm 18-25) Close to Fistral Beach,
this excellent hostel has a great sundeck and an on-site
surfing school.
National Express buses arrive from Lon-
don Victoria (35.50, 7 hours, seven daily),
Exeter (15.60, 3 hours, four daily) and
Penzance (5, 1 hours, two daily). Four
daily trains arrive from Par (4.80, one hour),
which hooks up with the main London
Penzance line.
BATH
%01225 / pop 90,144
Getting lost is the first thing any visitor to
Englands most handsome city should do.
Baths honey-coloured stone streets and teem-
ing back alleys are a strollers delight that
encourage unplanned exploration.
Orientation & Information
The bus and train stations face each other on
the southern edge of town.
The TIC (%0906 711 2000; www.visitbath.co.uk;
Abbey Chambers, Abbey Churchyard; phone calls per min
0.50; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat & 10am-4pm Sun Oct-May,
9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat & 10am-4pm Sun Jun-Sep) is near
the abbey. Internet access is available at Click
(%481008; 13a Manvers St; per 20min 1; h10am-10pm)
opposite the train station.
Sights
The highlight of any visit here, the Roman
Baths (%477785; www.romanbaths.co.uk; Abbey Church-
yard; adult/child 11/6; h9.30am-5pm Jan & Feb, 9am-5pm
Mar-Jun, 9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Sep & Oct, 9.30am-
4.30pm Nov & Dec) are a tangible link with Eng-
lands distant past. While you wont want to
dive into the sickly green pools, check out the
ancient engineering for a glimpse of what it
was like to be a Roman in Britain. The site is
crawling with tourists in summer, so arrive
late or early to beat the crowds.
Celebrating the life and times of Baths
most famous resident, the Jane Austen Centre
(%443000; www.janeausten.co.uk; 40 Gay St; adult/child
5.95/2.95; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-5.30pm
Sun) is a must for lit-lovers. Visits start with a
15-minute introductory talk, before youre let
loose in rooms full of artefacts. Check out the
low-priced top floor teahouse where you can
sink your teeth into Mr Darcy (the cake).
Dont miss Bath Abbey (%422462; www.bath
abbey.org; suggested donation 3; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat,
1-2.30pm & 4.30-5.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-5.30pm Mon-
Sat, 1-2.30pm Sun Nov-Mar) and its extraordinary
exterior of angels ascending and descending
heavenly ladders. Highlights inside include a
spider-web-style vaulted ceiling and intricate
stained-glass windows. Head to the Heritage
Vaults (adult/child 2.50/free; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) for
an exhibition of the abbeys centuries-old
stone carvings.
Sleeping
Bargains are hard to find in summertime Bath
when tourists arrive en masse. Book ahead or
suffer the consequences.
YMCA (%325900; www.bathymca.co.uk; International
House, Broad St Pl; dm 13-15, s 24-28, tw 36-44; ni)
The citys largest hostel is bright, cheerful and
right in the centre. The dorms are typically
institutional but the compact private rooms
are great value. Facilities include laundry and
an on-site gym, and continental breakfast is
thrown in (not literally).
White Hart Backpackers Inn (%313985; www.white
hartbath.co.uk; Widcombe Hill; dm 14, s 25, d 40-60; n)
In a recently renovated heritage pub building,
five minutes south of the train station, the
White Hart has modern furnishings, a cosy
atmosphere and good-value private rooms
with a corridor of mid-sized dorms. Most
rooms share bathrooms and rates include
continental breakfast.
oHenry (%424052; www.thehenry.com; 6Henry
St; s 35, d 60-65; n) This smashing, well-located
guesthouse has a strong claim to being Baths
best sleepover deal. Its warren of comfortable,
recently renovated rooms all with shared
bathrooms combine period features with
IKEA-esque furnishings.
Also recommended:
Bath YHA Hostel (%0870 770 5688; bath@yha.org.uk;
Bathwick Hill; dm 12.50; ni) Its a 25-minute uphill
climb from the centre to this Italianate-mansion YHA.
St Christophers Inn (%481444; www.st-christophers
.co.uk; 9 Green St; dm 16; i) Party-lovers hostel in the
heart of the city.
Eating & Drinking
Hit Baths back alleys for the best dine-out
deals.
oPorter (%424104; 15 George St; mains 3-6;
hlunch &dinner) An old-school pub with an un-
usual twist, Porters good-value menu is entirely
vegetarian, with hearty burgers and crepes well
represented. Students dominate the clientele, at-
tracted by a nightly roster of eclectic live music
(cover 3 to 5). Sunday is comedy night and
there are regular booze specials.
Sally Lunns (%461634; 4 North Pde Passage;
mains 5-10; hbrunch, lunch & dinner) This 17th-
century tearoom is a local favourite. Sample
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 184 185
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the Georgian-era Sally Lunn Bun, a triumph of
historic marketing thats actually a giant bread
roll topped with sweet or savoury toppings.
Tilleys Bistro (%484200; 3 North Pde Passage; mains
6-17; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; n) This French-
influenced restaurant is a romantic dinner
destination. Theres a large selection of small
dishes that diners can mix and match, includ-
ing the recommended Cornish white crab
salad and wild mushroom pancakes.
Getting There & Away
Ten direct National Express buses arrive daily
from London Victoria (16.50, 3 hours), one
direct from Salisbury (8.30, 1 hours) and
two from Bristol (3.50, 50 minutes). Direct
train services from London Paddington (from
19, 1 hours) arrive twice hourly, and hourly
direct services arrive from Cardiff (12.90,
one hour). There are also four services an
hour from Bristol (5.20, 15 minutes).
GLASTONBURY
%01458 / pop 8429
Druidic mysticism and straggle-haired hippies
converge like ley lines on this pretty Somerset
town thats reinvented itself as a New Age
capital. The TIC (%832954; www.glastonburytic.co.uk;
9 High St; h10am-5pm Sun-Thu, 10am-5.30pm Fri & Sat Apr-
Sep, 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri & Sat Oct-Mar) is
in the town centre.
The towns main attraction is the ruined
Glastonbury Abbey (%832267; www.glastonburyabbey
.com; adult/child 4.50/3; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-
5pm Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm Nov-Jan, 10am-5pm Feb & Mar),
where carved arch and pillar remnants indi-
cate a once-stunning structure. Most visitors
spend a couple of minutes here in front of an
area fancifully marked as King Arthurs grave
as with many of Glastonburys attractions,
faith is the key. But even if you dont believe
that Glastonbury Tor, a derelict hilltop church
tower on the edge of town, is a gateway to the
underworld, its a lovely spot to enjoy a picnic
and panoramic views.
Drop by in late June for the Glastonbury Fes-
tival (%tickets 0870 120 0332; www.glastonburyfestivals
.co.uk), a long weekend of music, theatre and
New Age shenanigans thats one of Englands
favourite outdoor events. More than 100,000
punters turn up to writhe around in the fields
at Pilton, 8 miles east of town. Three-day
admission costs 125.
The lively Glastonbury Backpackers (%833353;
www.glastonburybackpacker.com; 4 Market Pl; dm/d 12/30;
i) is perfectly central and has a popular bar.
Book ahead: its very busy in summer. Experi-
ence B&B perfection at AppleTreeHouse (%830803;
www.appletreehouse.org.uk; 27 Bere Lane; s/d 30/60; n),
where you can borrow movies for your VCR,
relax in the poppy-covered garden or hang out
in your calming, pastel-coloured room.
For a wide array of hearty meals, Caf
Galatea (%834284; 5a High St; mains 8-10; hlunch
Mon, lunch & dinner Wed-Sun; i) is recommended. It
also has an internet caf and a boutique where
you can pick up those essential crystals.
Getting There & Away
Theres no train station and only one daily direct
National Express bus from London Victoria
(18, four hours), so its best to hook up with
the numerous services running to Bristol. Buses
376 and 377 connect Glastonbury with Bristol
(hourly, 1 hours) throughout the day.
BRISTOL
%0117 / pop 420,556
This once-decrepit port town is now charac-
terised by its hip cultural scene and wealth of
historic and modern attractions. This resur-
gence is exemplified by the citys Harbourside,
a cool Euro-plaza of waterfront cafs and res-
taurants, complete with high-tech museums
and funky galleries.
Orientation & Information
The Harbourside is a 15-minute walk west of
Temple Meads train station. The city centre
is a few minutes north of here, while the bus
station is further north on Marlborough St.
Ask at the TIC (%0906 711 2191; www.visitbristol
.co.uk; Wildscreen Walk, Harbourside; phone calls per min
0.50; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb) for
maps. The nearby Internet Exchange (%945
9926; 27-29 Baldwin St; per hr 4; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri,
11am-7pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) provides convenient
Web access.
Sights
@Bristol (%0845 345 1235; www.at-bristol.org.uk; Har-
bourside; combined admission Explore & Wildwalk adult/child
15/11, Explore & IMAX adult/child 14/10.50, Wildwalk & IMAX
adult/child 13/10; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sun) is
a triumvirate of high-tech attractions includ-
ing Explore (adult/child 9/6.50), a kids-of-all-ages
hands-on science centre; IMAX (adult/child 7/5.50),
mostly showing eye-popping documentaries;
and Wildwalk (adult/child 8/6), an educational
trawl through the natural world.
The nearby Arnolfini (%917 2300; 16 Narrow Quay;
admission free; h10am-6pm Thu, 10am-8pm Fri-Wed),
Bristols version of Londons Tate Modern,
is a cool, recently reopened arts centre in
an atmospheric dockyard venue. Alongside
revolving exhibitions of contemporary art,
there are cutting-edge dance performances
and an art-house cinema.
Sleeping & Eating
Bristols accommodation is characterised by
business hotels and old-school B&Bs, but there
are some good options around the city.
Bristol Backpackers (%925 7900; www.bristol
backpackers.co.uk; 17 St Stephens St; dm/tw/tr 14/36/45;
i) A centrally located, character-stuffed joint
with its own dungeon-style bar, the predom-
inantly mid-sized dorms here are cramped
but comfortable. Theres free wi-fi.
Bristol YHA Hostel (%0870 770 5726; bristol@yha
.org.uk; 14 Narrow Quay; dm/tw 19.95/44; ni) An
excellent warehouse renovation in the heart
of the Harbourside, the rooms here mostly
four-bedded, en suite dorms have been re-
furbished with new furnishings. A free cooked
breakfast is included and theres a caf serv-
ing beer.
Arches Hotel (%924 7398; www.arches-hotel.co.uk;
132 Cotham Brow; s/d 35/58; n) Go green at this
friendly, nine-room guesthouse committed to
recycling and low-energy lighting. There are
several vegan and vegetarian-only breakfast
options: the continental is free, the cooked
costs 3 extra.
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
To Oldfields
Hotel (800m)
To Bath YHA
Hostel (500m)
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INFORMATION
YMCA............................... B2
White Hart Backpackers Inn.. D4
St Christopher's Inn.............. B2
Henry.................................. C3
Roman Baths........................ B3
Jane Austen Centre.............. B2
Bath Abbey.......................... C3
TIC...................................... C3
Main Post Office.................. B2
Click.................................... C4
14
TRANSPORT
13
12
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EATING
Bus Station........................ C4
Tilley's Bistro..................... C3
Sally Lunn's....................... C3
Porter................................. B2
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oSt Nicholas Market (922 4017; entrances High
St, Corn St & St Nicholas St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) A
smashing undercover Victorian market full of
deli-style takeaways. Make a circuit to check
out the olive bread, Stilton pasties and Carib-
bean delicacies before deciding what youre
in the mood for.
Mud Dock Caf (%934 9734; 40 The Grove; mains
7-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Occupying an
industrial-chic harbour building renovation,
Mud Dock offers modern Brit cuisine and a
lively, laid-back ambience. The top-floor patio
enjoys fab waterfront views and bikes can be
rented on the ground floor.
Entertainment
Bristol has some great live venues; pick up a
copy of Venue (1.30) for local listings. For
local indie faves and quality cover bands, try
the Fleece (%945 0996; www.fleecegigs.co.uk; 12 St Tho-
mas St; admission from4). If you want to see the next
big thing, head to the Croft (%987 4144; www.the
-croft.com; 117-119 Stokes Croft; admission from 3).
Getting There & Away
Eighteen daily direct National Express buses ar-
rive from London Victoria (from 7, 1 hours),
as well as three direct services from Cardiff
(6.50, one hour) and two from Penzance (37,
seven hours). Megabus runs five daily services
from London Victoria (from 1, three hours).
Twice-hourly trains arrive from London Pad-
dington (from 20, 1 hours) every day, with
frequent additional services from Bath (5.20,
15 minutes) and Cardiff (7.80, 45 minutes).
CENTRAL ENGLAND
The geographic heartland of England is a grab-
bag of wildly differing scenes that represent
Britain in miniature. There are flower-decked
villages studded with ancient cottages in the
Cotswolds, windswept rocky vistas in the hik-
ing-friendly Peak District and history around
every corner in fascinating towns like Oxford
and Stratford-upon-Avon. For information,
contact Heart of England Tourism (%01905-761100;
www.visitheartofengland.com).
OXFORD
%01865 / pop 143,016
A crowded hot spot in summer, Oxford lives
up to its advance billing as a colourful, history-
flavoured city especially if you bypass the
jostling tour groups and turn up early or late
in the season.
Orientation & Information
Oxfords train station is a 10-minute stroll
west of the centre along George St and Hythe
Bridge St youll pass the bus station on
Gloucester Green (theres no green).
The ever-busy TIC (%726871; www.visitoxford
.org; 15-16 BroadSt; h9.30am-5pmMon-Sat, to 6pmThu-Sat
Jul & Aug, 10am-4pmSun) is packed with maps and
brochures on the region. Pick up an Oxford
Visitor Card (2.50) here for discounts across
the city. Web access is available at Mic@s Internet
(%726364; 118 High St; per 30min 1; h9am-11pmMon-
Sat, 10am-11pmSun).
Sights & Activities
OXFORD UNIVERSITY
Its impossible to miss Oxfords crenulated
college buildings, which dominate the centre.
The following are some of the universitys
must-see highlights.
The main entrance to Christ Church (%286573;
www.visitchristchurch.net; Broadwalk; adult/child 4.50/3.50;
h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun), Oxfords most
spectacular college, is Tom Tower, with its post-
card-perfect Christopher Wren-designed
dome. Save time for a look at the Great Hall,
which was copied for the Harry Potter movies,
and check out lovely Christ Church Cathedral, the
smallest in Britain.
Arguably Oxfords prettiest college, Magdalen
(%276000; www.magd.ox.ac.uk; High St; adult/child 3/2;
hnoon-6pm Jul-Sep, 1-6pm Oct-Jun) combines a col-
lection of stately buildings with a tapestry of
landscaped grounds. The architectural high-
light is the cloister, featuring fantastical carv-
ings of hippos and jesters that are said to have
inspired CS Lewis.
The main highlight of Merton (%276310; www
.merton.ox.ac.uk; Merton St; admission free; h2-4pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) is the 14th-century
Old Library, the oldest continuously operating
college library in the world. Tours (2) of the
building are offered for curious bookworms
from July to September.
MUSEUMS
Founded in 1683, the Ashmolean (%278000; www
.ashmol.ox.ac.uk; Beaumont St; admission free; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) is Britains oldest museum
and also one of its best. Highlights include
priceless Chinese, Egyptian and European
artworks and antiquities. Theres also a col-
lection of modern British paintings in the
Sands Gallery and an ever-changing roster of
temporary exhibitions (also free).
In its magnificent Victorian Gothic home,
the University Museum of Natural History (%272950;
www.oum.ox.ac.uk; Parks Rd; admission free; hnoon-5pm)
illuminates the natural sciences and attracts
visitors to its hulking dinosaur skeletons.
The adjacent Pitt Rivers Museum (%270927; www
.prm.ox.ac.uk; South Parks Rd; admission free; hnoon-
4.30pm) displays a menagerie of collected
artefacts ranging from shrunken heads to
stuffed animals.
The Museum of Oxford (%252761; St Aldgates;
adult/child 2/0.50; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm
Sat, noon-4pm Sun) is well worth a visit for an
introduction to the citys history. Its evoca-
tion of the universitys early days including
re-created rooms and college treasures is
fascinating.
Sleeping
Accommodation can be hard to come by in
summer, so book well ahead. Abingdon Rd is
a B&B hot spot.
Oxford Camping International (%246551; 426
Abingdon Rd; camp sites per person 9.25) Large, well-
serviced camping ground 1 miles south
of town.
YHA Hostel (%0870 770 5970; oxford@yha.org.uk;
2a Botley Rd; dm 20.95; ni) One of Englands
newest YHA properties, this modern purpose-
built hostel is just behind the train station. Its
bright and well-maintained rooms mostly
0 400 m
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Oxford
Station
St
Catherine's
College
Magdalen
College
To Thornhill
Park'n'Ride Car
Park (800m) Botanic
Gardens
Merton
Field
Deer
Park
Christ
Church
Meadow
Oriel
Sq
Gloucester
Green
Radcliffe
Sq
R
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C
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To Oxford Camping
International (800m);
Red Bridge Park n Ride
Car Park (800m)
To Seacourt
Park'n'Ride
Car Park
(800m)
R
iv
e
r T
h
a
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Rose Pl
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L
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Brewer St
T
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A
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R
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R
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High St
Hythe Bridge St
H
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R
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S
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F
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B
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If
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R
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Botley Rd
St
Clement's St
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W
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St Pembroke St
George St
O
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Merton St
Holywell St
South
P
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R
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Jowett Wk
M
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Rd
S
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J
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S
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Pusey St
Park End St
Worcester
Pl
Richmond St
G
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C
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S
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New
College
La
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R
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M
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In
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H
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S
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M
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L
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S
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R
iv
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C
h
e
r
w
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ll
To Burlington House
Hotel (120m);
Cherwell Boathouse (1mi)
To Pear Tree
Park'n'Ride Car
Park (600m)
St Michaels
T
u
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Ship St
M
arket St
C
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
3
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1
INFORMATION
Station............................. B3
Gloucester Green Bus/Coach
Vaults & Garden Caf.......... C3
Turf Tavern.......................... C3
Moya.................................. D4
Covered Market.................. C3
YHA Hostel.......................... A3
Oxford Backpackers............. A3
Malmaison........................... B3
Eurobar Caf & Hotel........... B3
Central Backpackers............. A3
History............................. C2
University Museum of Natural
Pitt Rivers Museum................ C2
Museum of Oxford................ C3
Merton College..................... C3
Magdalen College................. D3
Christ Church College............ C3
Ashmolean Museum.............. B2
TIC......................................... B3
Post Office............................. C3
Mic@s Internet...................... C3
OXFORD
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 188 189
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have four to six beds. Theres no parking
(except for disabled travellers and bikes), but
prices include breakfast.
Central Backpackers (%242288; www.central
backpackers.co.uk; 13 Park End St; dm 14-18; ni) Ox-
fords newest hostel has spick and span facili-
ties, free wi-fi access and a quiet ambience. It
also offers free luggage storage, a female-only
dorm and a Sky TV lounge. There are plenty
of showers and if you get up early enough you
can snag the only bath.
Oxford Backpackers (%721761; www.hostels.co.uk;
9a Hythe Bridge St; dm 14-16; i) A typically col-
ourful party joint with bright murals, an-
cient armchairs and a happening bar. Close
to town.
Eurobar Caf & Hotel (%725087; www.eurhotels
.co.uk; 48 George St; s/d 35/50; n) Located near
the bus station, the Eurobar has the look of a
continental pub but the rooms of a standard
British B&B. The bar itself is worth a look
even if youre not staying here: the food is
cheap and cheerful, and theres a good selec-
tion of real ales.

Eating & Drinking
Theres an array of eateries to suit all budgets
in Oxford, so its not hard to find a place to
fill your belly.
Covered Market (Market St; snacks from 1.50; h8am-
5.30pm Mon-Sat) Not everything is edible in this
large, airy market hall but its hard to shake
the idea that youre wandering around a gour-
met smorgasbord. From samosas to sausages
and olives to sticky buns, the quality is a cut
above standard market fare.
Vaults & Garden Caf (%279112; St Marys Church,
Radcliffe Sq; mains 5-8; h10am-5pm) The handsome
city-centre church of St Marys is home to this
wholesome spot, which specialises in organic
and vegetarian dishes the tasty pancakes and
large salads are recommended.
Moya (%200111; 97 St Clements St; mains 5-11;
hlunch & dinner) This sleek, contemporary-
designed restaurant serves an array of well-
priced Slovak fusion dishes, including richly
sauced venison medallions and an excellent
goulash. Theres plenty of menu space for
vegetarians: check out the goat cheese devils
toast.
Turf Tavern (%243235; 4 Bath Pl; mains 4-8; hlunch
& dinner) Theres excellent pub grub at this rec-
ommended 16th-century watering hole thats
hidden along a back alley between Holywell
St and New College Lane. Attracting a mix of
students, locals and tourists, drinkers spill out
into its adjoining courtyards in summer.
Getting There & Away
Direct National Express buses arrive every
20 minutes from London Victoria (12, 1
hours), with five additional direct services
from Birmingham (10.20, one to two hours)
and one from Bristol (13, three hours).
Megabus services arrive from London Vic-
toria (from 1, 1 hours) every 15 minutes.
Stagecoach Express (%01234-212852) runs an
hourly bus X5 service from Cambridge (7,
3 hours).
Direct trains arrive from London Padding-
ton (from 9.50, 55 minutes) and Birmingham
(from 8, one hour) every 30 minutes.
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON
%01789 / pop 111,474
Stratford teeters on the edge of theme park
madness in summer, when coachloads of
tourists descend to pay camera-wielding hom-
age to Englands leading dead playwright.
But if you visit early or late in the season its
possible to celebrate Shakespeares life and
works without jostling for space on every
street corner.
Orientation & Information
The train station is a 15-minute walk west
of the centre. Head south along the Avon
riverbank to the main theatres.
You can exchange currency at the TIC
(%293127; www.shakespeare-country.co.uk; Bridgefoot;
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Oct-Mar, 9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Apr-Sep). For Web access, head
to Cyber Junction (%263400; 28 Greenhill St; per 30min
3; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat).
Sights & Activities
Like artefacts in glass cases, theres an unreal
quality to the five timber-framed Shakespeare-
era houses on Stratfords modern streets.
The most worthy of a visit is Shakespeares
Birthplace (Henley St; adult/child 7/2.75; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun), a scrubbed-clean Tudor
building where chatty interpreters explain
the history of the house. A mile from the
centre, Anne Hathaways Cottage (adult/child 5.50/2;
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) is an idyllic
thatched farmhouse where Shakespeares
wife was raised. The Shakespeare Birthplace
Trust (%204016; www.shakespeare.org.uk) sells two
combined-entry ticket options to the houses
(three houses adult/child 11/5.50, five houses
adult/child 14/6.50).
You can see where the Bard now lies at rest
at the immaculate Holy Trinity Church (%266316;
www.stratford-upon-avon.org; Old Town; suggested donation
1.50; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun Apr-Oct,
9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun Nov-Mar). The high
altar and stained-glass windows are highlights
but most come here for the grave in the chan-
cel, a discreet stone slab in the floor.
Check out a performance by the Royal
Shakespeare Company (%0870 609 1110; www.rsc
.org.uk; tickets 5-55; hbox office 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat).
Its Royal Shakespeare Theatre (RST) is closed
for redevelopment from 2007 until 2010, and
plays will temporarily be transferred to the
new Courtyard Theatre. The companys other
theatre, the Swan, will be closed for refurbish-
ment in 2008 and 2009. It will not produce
any plays during this period.
Sleeping & Eating
Grove Rd and Evesham Pl, between the train
station and town centre, is B&B central, while
Sheep St is Stratfords restaurant row.
YHA Hostel (%0870 770 6052, stratford@yha.org.uk;
Hemmingford House, Alveston; dm 19.95; i) Nearly
2 miles from the centre, this splendid white
stucco Georgian mansion contains mostly
small dorms and good facilities. The cycle
storage and games room are a nice touch but
its the three acres of verdant grounds that
stand-out. Take bus X18 or 77 to Alveston
from Stratfords Bridge St.
oHamlet House (%204386; www.hamlet
house.com; 52 Grove Rd; s/d/from 22.50/45; ni) All
rooms at this exceptionally comfortable B&B
are scrupulously clean and some include video
libraries alongside their TVs. Breakfast op-
tions include a gourmet omelette choice and
cooked vegetarian alternative. Guests can
freely borrow a couple of mountain bikes.
oBaguette Barge (%0796 395 6720; Bancroft
Gardens, Waterside; sandwiches 2-3; hlunch & dinner)
This charming town-centre boat moored
on the Avon River serves superior takeaway
sandwiches and baguettes. Expect to wait up
to 10 minutes for a burger here they cook
it from scratch.
Garrick Inn (%292186; 25 High St; mains 4-9;
hlunch & dinner) A smashing Tudor pub, com-
plete with low ceilings and leaded windows,
the Garrick has a varied menu of hearty pub
food, with more than the usual share of veg-
etarian options. Baked potatoes with a huge
choice of toppings are the best deal and will
likely fill you up for the day.
Getting There & Away
Four direct National Express buses arrive
daily from London Victoria (15, 2 to 3
hours), while two direct buses arrive from
Birmingham (6.50, one hour) and two from
Oxford (8.30, one hour). Every two hours, a
direct train arrives from London Marylebone
(from 10.50, 2 hours).
COTSWOLDS
A delightful jumble of implausibly pretty
villages think charming stone churches
and dreamy thatched-roofed houses set in
postcard-perfect rolling hills, the Cotswolds
is classic English countryside. The region is
popular with hikers and bikers but also attracts
convoys of summer tour buses.
Running north from Bath for around 100
miles, the region divides into southern and
northern areas with the northern half attract-
ing most visitors. With its own train station,
Moreton-in-Marsh is a good northern access
point. In the south, Cheltenham has good
train and bus links. For information, contact
the Cotswold Tourist Board (%01452-426280; www
.cotswolds.com).
Stow-on-the-Wolds YHA Hostel (%0870 770
6050; stow@yha.org.uk; The Square; dm 15; ni) is
popular with families and has top-notch facili-
ties. For those with bigger budgets, Chipping
Camdens Eight Bells (%840371; www.eightbellsinn
.co.uk; Church St; s/d from 50/85; n) is among the
regions best options with modern-dcor pub
rooms.
Five nondirect (change at Cirencester) Na-
tional Express buses arrive daily from London
Victoria at Moreton-in-Marsh (18.60, three
SPLURGE
Malmaison (%268400; www.malmaison-oxford
.com; 3 Oxford Castle; r from 110; n) This ser-
iously swanky boutique-chic property is
located in the former HM Prison Oxford,
an austere Victorian edifice on the site of
the old Oxford Castle. Not surprisingly, the
rooms many converted from two or three
poky cells are dripping with stylish mod-
ern flourishes, including the kind of large-
tub, luxury bathrooms that are very difficult
to leave. An ideal place to be incarcerated
for the night.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 190 191
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to four hours) and Stow-on-the-Wold (18.60,
3 to 4 hours). Eleven direct daily London
Victoria services also arrive in Cheltenham
(from 4, three hours). Direct daily train
services arrive every two hours from London
Paddington at Moreton-in-Marsh (23.30, 1
hours). Regular direct and nondirect trains
also arrive at Cheltenham from London Pad-
dington (from 19, two to 2 hours).
Getting There & Around
Getting around the Cotswolds by public
transport isnt easy. If youre trying anything
ambitious, contact Traveline (%0870 608 2608;
www.traveline.org.uk). Alternatively, hire a bike
from Cotswold Country Cycles (%01386-438706;
www.cotswoldcountrycycles.com; Longlands Farm Cottage,
Chipping Campden; per day 12).
BIRMINGHAM
%0121 / pop 970,892
Britains second-largest city, Birmingham
has lagged behind post-industrial rivals like
Glasgow and Manchester and their success-
ful rebrandings as hip urban centres. But
Brum has an increasing cultural vibrancy
that makes it a cosmopolitan city on the rise.
For a glimpse of the citys future, check out
the bizarre Selfridges department store in the
Bull Ring: with the texture of a silver golf ball,
it adds a sci-fi flourish to the skyline. Contact
the TIC (%0870 428 1859; www.beinbirmingham.co.uk;
The Rotunda, 150 New St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) for
its free accommodation booking service. Free
internet access is offered at the Central Library
(%303 4511; Chamberlain Sq; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
5pm Sat).
For a fascinating glimpse into Birming-
hams tenement housing past, check out the
Back to Backs (%666 7671; 50-54 Inge St; adult/child
4.50/2.20; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), a carefully pre-
served courtyard of working-class homes illus-
trating what life was like here from the 1840s to
the 1970s. Take a crash course in the cool new
Birmingham over at IKON Gallery (%248 0708;
www.ikon-gallery.co.uk; 1 Oozells Sq, Brindleyplace; admission
free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun), with its ever-changing
roster of contemporary artworks.
Opened in early 2006, Billys International
Backpackers (%07951-745102; 58 Coventry St, Digbeth;
dm from 17) is located above a pub in the city
centre. It has 30 beds and each room has an en
suite shower (toilets are shared). Breakfast and
a free luggage room are included and some
twin rooms are available.
Reflecting its large Asian population, Bir-
minghams Balti Triangle is a must-do area for
curry connoisseurs. Excellent baltis Pakistani
curries made and served in a flat-bottomed
pan are proffered at the ornate Punjab Para-
dise (%449 4110; 377 Ladypool Rd; mains from 7; hdin-
ner) and the laid-back Royal Al Faisel (%449 5695;
136 Stoney Lane; buffet 6; hlunch & dinner).
Getting There & Away
Direct National Express buses arrive twice
hourly from London Victoria (from 2, 2
hours). Five direct services also travel from
Oxford (from 1, two hours) and eight from
Bristol (from 1, two hours). Nine daily di-
rect Megabus services arrive from London
Victoria (from 1, three hours). Twice-hourly
direct train services arrive at Birmingham
New Street from London Euston (from 10,
1 hours).
PEAK DISTRICT NATIONAL PARK
Squeezed between the industrial Midlands to
the south, Manchester to the northwest and
Sheffield to the east, the 555-sq-mile Peak
District is one of Englands wildest outdoor
regions. Thats not to say its inhospitable. In
fact, the peaks here are often fairly gentle
hills, and there are plenty of soft hiking and
biking routes.
The region is divided into the more dra-
matic scenery of the norths Dark Peak area
and the gentler, low-lying White Peak dales
to the south. Buxton to the west or Matlock
to the east are good bases, or you can stay
right in the centre at Bakewell or Castleton.
From Edale, the Pennine Way starts its 250-mile
meander northwards.
There are 10 well-resourced visitor in-
formation centres in and around the park,
including those at Bakewell (%01629-813227;
Old Market Hall, Bridge St; h9.30am-5.30pm Easter-Oct,
10am-5pm Nov-Easter), Buxton (%01298-25106; The
Crescent; h10am-5pm) and Edale (%01433-670207;
Main St; h10am-5pm). For more information,
check the Peak District (www.visitpeakdistrict.com)
website.
There are popular YHA hostels in Castleton
(%0870 770 5758; castleton@yha.org.uk; dm 14; n) and
Bakewell (%0870 770 5682; bakewell@yha.org.uk; Fly Hill;
dm 14; n), and a recommended but often very
busy YHA Activity Centre in Edale (%0870 770
5808; edale@yha.org.uk; Rowland Cote, Nether Booth; dm
12.50; n), where you can try your hand at
caving, kayaking and abseiling.
Getting There & Around
One daily direct National Express bus travels
to Buxton from London Victoria (21, five
hours) and another from Manchester (6.20,
one hour). One daily direct service also arrives
in Bakewell from Derby (6.50, 50 minutes)
and another from Manchester (7.30, 1
hours). Hourly nondirect (change at Stock-
port) train services travel to Buxton from
London Euston (from 13.50, three hours).
A direct hourly service also arrives in Buxton
from Manchester (6.35, one hour).
The local bus system serves the park sur-
prisingly well. Many visitors use the hourly
Trent Barton Transpeak service that runs
from Nottingham to Manchester via Matlock,
Bakewell and Buxton. Visit the online route
planner at www.derbyshire.gov.uk/buses.
EAST ENGLAND
Despite the bustling tourist magnet of Cam-
bridge, few visitors to the UK ever make it to
the wilds of Norfolk, Suffolk and Lincolnshire,
where youll find pretty market towns, gently
undulating farm-strewn landscapes, swathes
of beautifully desolate coastline and gallons
of colourful history. For information, contact
the East of England Tourist Board (%0870 225 4800;
www.visiteastofengland.com).
CAMBRIDGE
%01223 / pop 117,717
Hallowed home of one of the worlds most
prestigious centres of learning, pretty Cam-
bridge is steeped in history and scholarly
ambience. The 31-college university, which
dominates the town centre, was founded
by a 13th-century splinter group that broke
off from Oxford still known locally as the
other place. Yet Cambridge doesnt rest on its
swotty laurels. Its lively city centre is teeming
with locals and visitors.
Orientation & Information
The main university buildings occupy the
centre of town in a wide bend of the Cam
River. The bus station is also in the centre
on Drummer St, but the train station is a
20-minute walk southeast. The most revered
colleges are west of Sidney St.
Crowded in summer, the TIC (%0871 226
8006; www.visitcambridge.org; The Old Library, Wheeler St;
h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat year-round, 11am-
4pm Sun Apr-Oct) sells a 2.50 Official Visitor
Card that provides small discounts at sights,
activities and restaurants. Budget Internet Caf
(%464625; 30 Hills Rd; per hr from 90p; h9am-11pm) of-
fers the cheapest Web access in Cambridge.
Sights
Theres an uneasy relationship between some
of the colleges and the tourists that overrun
the city in summer. Colleges frequently close
to visitors at short notice, so call ahead if you
want to follow in the footsteps of VIP alumni
like Isaac Newton and Prince Charles.
Among the universitys unmissable high-
lights is Kings College Chapel (%331212; www.kings
.cam.ac.uk; Kings Pde; adult/child 4.50/3; h9.30am-
3.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.15pm Sat, 1.15-2.15pm Sun term
time, 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun outside term
time), a dazzling Tudor testament to Christian
devotion that has the power to make the most
ardent atheist think twice. After taking in the
astonishing fan-vaulted ceiling, check out the
intricately carved wooden screen contributed
by Henry VIII.
Nearby Trinity College (%338400; adult/child
2.20/1.30; h10am-5pm) is one of the univer-
sitys grandest academic piles. Founded in
1546, it includes the Great Court, with its acres
of manicured lawns and skyline of palatial
historic buildings. Dont miss the handsome
Wren Library (%338488; admission free; hnoon-2pm
Mon-Fri year-round, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat term-time). Its
collection includes AA Milnes original Win-
nie the Pooh.
Many Cambridge colleges have their own
museums covering themes like archaeology,
anthropology and polar research. But the uni-
versitys leading cultural light is the Fitzwilliam
Museum (%332900; www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk; Trump-
ington St; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm
Sun). Founded in 1816, highlights include Egyp-
tian, Greek and Roman artefacts, works by
Titian, Rembrandt and Monet, and a treasure
trove of ceramics, glass and silver ware.
Sleeping
It can be challenging to find good-value ac-
commodation, which is limited in size and
overstretched by demand in summer. For
peak-season trips, book as far ahead as poss-
ible using the www.visitcambridge.org accom-
modation search engine.
Cherry Hinton Caravan Club (%244088; www
.caravanclub.co.uk; Lime Kiln Rd, Cherry Hinton; camp sites
4-7, per person 3.50-5; hMar-Jan) This grassy,
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 192 193
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tree-lined caravan park has plenty of tent
pitches and its toilet and shower block in-
cludes disabled facilities. Its also just a 10-
minute bus ride to the city centre for those
who want to camp and commute.
YHA Hostel (%0870 770 5742; cambridge@yha.org
.uk; 97 Tenison Rd; dm 17.50; ni) Just 15 minutes
from both the city centre and the train station,
this red-brick Victorian townhouse is a typi-
cally institutional YHA effort, with plenty of
solid 1970s furniture. Happily, most dorms
are small (including 10 two-bed rooms) and
bike storage is available.
Sleeperz (%304050; www.sleeperz.com; Station Rd;
s/tw/d 39/49/59; n) An IKEA-esque minimalist
makeover has turned this old brick granary
building near the station into a good-value
hotel option. The chic bathrooms are a plus
and the breakfast of croissants, brie and ham
is a refreshing continental start to the day.
Some rooms have disabled access.
Other recommendations:
Tenison Towers Guest House (%363924; www.cam
bridgecitytenisontowers.com; 148 Tenison Rd; s/d 30/55)
Clean, great value B&B five minutes from the train station.
Alpha Milton Guest House (%311625; www
.alphamiltonguesthouse.co.uk; 61-63 Milton Rd; s/d from
20/40) Comfortable, family-run B&B with some en suite
rooms.
Eating & Drinking
Once the regional capital of twee tearooms,
Cambridge now has a cosmopolitan selection
of cafs, bars and restaurants.
Clowns (%355711; 54 King St; mains 3-6.50; h8am-
midnight Mon-Sat, 8am-11pm Sun) If the creepy
Clown-themed dcor doesnt scare you off,
this cosy caf is well worth a look. It can be
crowded with students at peak times but its
toasted sandwiches, hearty pasta dishes and
hot chocolate make it a comfortable spot to
peruse the local papers.
Cazimir (%355156; 13 King St; mains 4-8; h8.30am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-7pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun) The
antithesis of the Starbucks chain that perme-
ates many streets here, Cazimir is lined with
works by local artists and serves a darn good
sandwich. The daily soup specials are hearty
enough for most travellers.
Rainbow (%321551; 9a Kings Pde; mains 7-9;
h10am-10pmTue-Sat; n) Near the gates of Kings
College, this inviting subterranean vegetarian
bistro fuses influences from around the world
to keep its menu enticing, even for those not
usually interested in a meat-free diet. There are
also plenty of vegan options and the service
is excellent.
Fort St George (%354327; Midsummer Common;
mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner) The citys best pub,
this lovely 16th-century spot is ideal for sit-
ting outside in summer watching the world
float by. Theres a hearty selection of real ales
and the menu combines well-prepared pub
standards with some veggie-friendly options.
If you dont drink too much you can rent a
punt outside.
Getting There & Away
Fourteen daily direct National Express
buses travel from Londons Victoria Sta-
tion (10, two hours). National Express also
runs 20 daily services from Stansted airport
(9.70, 50 minutes) and 29 daily services
from Heathrow airport (25, two to three
hours). Stagecoach Express (%01234-212852) runs
an hourly X5 service from Oxford (7, 3
hours). Direct trains arrive every 30 min-
utes from London Kings Cross (17.50, 50
minutes) and London Liverpool St (17.50,
one hour).
NORTHWEST ENGLAND
Popular culture, the arts, music and big nights
out on the town are the main attractions in
the decidedly urban southern corner of this
region, while to the north theres the wild
beauty of the Lake District.
MANCHESTER
%0161 / pop 439,000
Manchester was a leading crucible of innova-
tion, invention and social discontent during
the Industrial Revolution, but these days the
citys music and clubs are what put it on the
map. Although the heyday of the Madches-
ter sound and the revolution in club culture
witnessed at the (demolished) Hacienda club
are now distant memories, its still a great
town to party in.
Orientation & Information
The University of Manchester lies to the
south of the city centre, on Oxford St/Rd.
Victoria train station caps the city in the
north.
The TIC (%0871 222 8223; www.visitmanchester.com;
Town Hall Extension, Lloyd St, St Peter Sq; h10am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun & bank holidays) also has
branches in Terminals 1 and 2 at the airport.
Internet access is available at easyEverything
(%832 9200; St Annes Sq).
Sights & Activities
The excellent Museum of Science & Industry
(%832 2244; Liverpool Rd, Castlefield; admission free, ex-
hibitions adult/child 5/3; h10am-5pm) offers vivid,
interactive displays on the citys once proud
textile and engineering industries, featuring
some excellent live demonstrations of indus-
trial weaving and working steam engines. If
you only visit one museum in town, make
it this one.
Out in Manchesters rapidly regenerating
Quays area (take the Metrolink to either
Broadway or Harbour City), the excellent
Imperial War Museum North (%836 4000; http://
north.iwm.org.uk; Trafford Wharf Rd, Trafford Park; admis-
sion free; h10am-6pm) is a cut above the usual
war museums, projecting short films that
explore the impact of war on the lives of
everyday people. The Lowry Centre (www.thelowry
.com) with its theatres and galleries is also in
the Quays.
You may begin to understand why fans
of the citys most famous football club treat
its home as hallowed ground if you head to
the Manchester United Football Museum (%0870
442 1994; www.manutd.com; Old Trafford stadium; museum
adult/child 5.50/3.75, incl tour 7.50/5). The entertain-
ing hour-long tours of changing rooms and
sacred turf run every 10 minutes. Call or
email ahead, as tour times depend on match
days and times.
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To Worth
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INFORMATION
Drummer St Bus Station....... B2
Rainbow............................... B3
Midsummer House............... C1
Fort St George...................... C1
Clowns................................. B2
Cazimir................................ B2
YHA Hostel........................... D4
Tenison Towers Guest House.. D4
Sleeperz................................ D4
Trinity College....................... A2
King's College Chapel............ A2
Fitzwilliam Museum............... B3
TIC......................................... B3
Post Office............................. B2
Budget Internet Caf............. C4
CAMBRIDGE
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Sleeping & Eating
Hatters (%236 9500; www.hattersgroup.com; 50 Newton
St; dm 15-17, s/d 30/45; i) The best low-priced
option is equidistant from the railway and
coach stations in the city centre, and offers
200 beds, cheap high-speed internet access
(per 30 minutes 1), no lockout, plus a full
restaurant and laundry facilities.
YHA Manchester (%839 9960; manchester@yha.org
.uk; dm under/over 18yr 15.95/20.95) Across the road
from the Museum of Science & Industry in the
Castlefield area (well signposted), this hostel
has over 140 beds and full facilities.
The most distinctive restaurant zones are
Chinatown (bounded by Charlotte, Portland,
Oxford and Mosley Sts) and Rusholme in the
south, called the Curry Mile for its plethora
of Indian restaurants.
Tampopo (%819 1966; 16 Albert Sq; mains 6.50-9)
Near the town hall in smart, contemporary
surroundings youll find this excellent pan-
Asian canteen serving affordable noodle,
dumpling, yakitori and satay dishes.
Basement (%237 1832; 24 Lever St; mains 2-3;
hnoon-6pm Wed-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Ludicrously
cheap organic and vegan fare, including tasty
jacket potatoes and fresh juices, are the reason
to come to this excellent little community-run,
not-for-profit caf. That and the free internet
access. Dont forget to tip your volunteer staff.
Caf And (%834 1136; 74-76 High St; sandwiches 3)
This caf, record store and quirky interiors shop
in the up and coming Northern Quarter serves
fresh, inexpensive wraps and warming soups.
Drinking & Entertainment
The glory days of early house music and
the loose-limbed, guitar-backed Madches-
ter sound may have faded but Manchester
still parties hard and offers a huge choice to
clubbers.
There are several places to drink close to the
canal in Castlefield, including Dukes 92 (%839
8646; 2 Castle St), with high ceilings and outdoor
seating for sunny days. Bar Centro (%835 2863;
72 Tib St) in the cool Northern Quarter has an
alternative vibe and is a great place to kick off
a big night out.
Two abiding Manchester stalwarts (by the
ephemeral standards of clubland) are the in-
timate Music Box (%236 9971; 65 Oxford St; admission
5-12; hWed-Sat), leaning towards jagged, hard-
edged house; and the much larger Sankeys Soap
(%661 9085; Jersey St, Ancoats; admission free-11; hFri
& Sat), which is slightly more mainstream and
hosts the biggest names from the international
clubbing firmament.
Getting There & Away
National Express operates out of Chorlton St
station in the city centre to almost anywhere
youll want to go, including Londons Victoria
Station (21 return, 4 hours, seven to nine
per day) and Edinburgh (24.50, 6 hours,
about five per day).
Piccadilly is the main station for trains to
and from the rest of the country, although
Victoria serves Halifax and Bradford. The
two stations are linked by Metrolink (%0845
748 4950) light rail. There are frequent train
services to London (92, 2 hours, hourly)
and Liverpool (8.30, 45 minutes to one hour,
three per hour).
LIVERPOOL
%0151 / pop 439,000
Visually more striking than Manchester, and
with some fantastic architecture, busy night-
life and a grand waterfront facing the broad
Mersey estuary, infectiously friendly Liver-
pool is on the up. Formerly a down-at-heel
city trying to evolve from economic depres-
sion following its industrial and maritime
decline, Europes City of Culture for 2008 is
busily polishing and patching itself for the
occasion. Of all northern Englands cities,
Liverpool has perhaps the strongest sense of
its own identity, an identity closely tied up
with its most famous sons, the Beatles.
Orientation & Information
Lime St, the main train station, is just to the
east of the city centre. The National Express
coach station is on the corner of Norton and
Islington Sts slightly northeast of the train
station. The bus station is in the centre on
Paradise St.
Occupying the same building as the infor-
mation centre in charge of the 2008 Year of
Culture celebrations, the TIC (%233 2008; www
.visitliverpool.com; The 08 Place, Whitechapel; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun) also has a branch in-
side the Merseyside Maritime Museum (both
book accommodation). Log on to the internet
at CaffLatte.net (%709 9683; 4 South Hunter St; per
30min 1; h9am-6pm).
Sights & Activities
Many of the best sights cluster around Albert
Dock (%708 8854; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk), an
impressively redeveloped dock packed with
bars, restaurants and museums. The Mersey-
side Maritime Museum (%478 4499; admission free;
h10am-5pm) has several absorbing exhibition
spaces on Liverpools maritime heritage. Dont
miss the exhibits covering the slave trade and
the Atlantic War against the Nazis.
For many, a visit to Liverpool wouldnt
be complete without a Beatles pilgrimage. A
sanitised version of the rise of the Fab Four
it may be but The Beatles Story (%709 1963; www
.beatlesstory.com; Britannia Vaults, Albert Dock; adult/child
7.95/5.45; h10am-5.50pm) still pulls in the punt-
ers and includes a re-creation of the famous
Cavern Club, which also hosts live music. Its
also the departure point for the rather more
worthwhile Magical Mystery Tour (%709 3285;
www.caverncitytours.com; tickets 11.95, tours 2.10pm &
2.30pm daily, also 11.40am & noon in summer, on weekends
& hols), which takes passengers by a psychedelic
bus to the actual Strawberry Fields and Penny
Lane (you know, where the banker never wore
a mac in the pouring rain).
Sleeping
International Inn (%709 8135; www.internationalinn
.co.uk; 4 S Hunter St; dm/tw 15/36; i) Close to the
city centre, off Hardman St, the International
is well equipped with a caf, kitchen and games
room.
Embassie Hostel (%707 1089; www.embassie.com;
1 Falkner Sq; dm 12.50-13.50) Named for its former
life as the Venezuelan consulate, this com-
fortable hostel is a labour of love for its own-
ers, a former backpacker and his father, who
provide a comfortable environment, summer
barbecues on the patio, and free coffee, tea
and toast.
YHA Liverpool International (%0870 770 5924;
liverpool@yha.org.uk; 25 Tabley St, Wapping; dm under/over
18yr 15.95/20.95; i) Right across the road from
Albert Dock, with all the best hostel ameni-
ties including restaurant with breakfast in-
cluded, 24-hour internet access and laundry
facilities.
Eating
Eating out in Liverpool has never been better
as good new places are springing up all the
time. The area around Hope Street is really
buzzing as is the up-and-coming Ropewalks/
Chinatown district.
Everyman Bistro (%708 9545; 5-9 Hope St; mains
6-8; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat) The freshly made
food here is great value with soups and salads
starting at 2, a reasonable list of beers and
wines and some good veggie options.
Flannagans Apple (%231 1957; 18 Mathew St; pub
meals 5) In the city centre, this famed pub wont
win culinary prizes but its cheap and fun.
Alma De Cuba (%709 7097; St Peters Church; tapas
2.50-5, mains 11-21; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A very
cool bar/restaurant serving Latin American
flavours such as jalapeno rib eye steak or cal-
amari with saffron rice and grilled prawns.
Drinking & Entertainment
The old Beatles stamping ground of Mathew
St is still a good place to go for a night out.
Slightly southwest to Bold, Seel and Slater Sts
youll stumble on an amazing array of clubs
and pubs catering to most punters.
Philharmonic Dining Room (%709 1163; cnr Hope
& Hardman Sts) One of Britains most extraor-
dinary pubs, whose interior is resplendent
with etched glass, stained glass, wrought iron,
mosaics and ceramic tiling, and fitted with
wingback armchairs. Even the mens loo is a
heritage-listed marble marvel.
Heebie Jeebies (%708 7001; 80-82 Seel St; admission
4-7; hMon-Sat) Clubbers should head here for
house, techno, 50s rock n roll and funk,
depending on the night.
Everyman Theatre (%709 4776; www.everyman
playhouse.com; Hope St) One of the best repertory
theatres in the country, with a proud roll call
of past and present talent.
Getting There & Away
National Express bus services link Liverpool to
most major towns, including London (22, 5
hours, four daily) and Manchester (5.80, 1
hours, hourly). Direct trains head to Londons
Euston station (94.50, three hours, hourly).
Getting Around
Public transport in the region is coordinated by
Merseytravel (%2367676; www.merseytravel.gov.uk). The
Saveaway ticket (3.70) offers all day off-peak
travel. Bus services are plentiful and frequent.
The ferry (%330 1444; www.merseyferries.co.uk)
across the Mersey, started 800 years ago by
Benedictine monks but made famous by Gerry
& the Pacemakers, still offers one of the best
views of Liverpool. Boats depart from Pier
Head ferry terminal, just north of Albert Dock.
Special 50-minute commentary cruises run
year-round, departing hourly from 10am to
3pm on weekdays and until 6pm on weekends
(adult/concession/child 4.95/3.60/2.75).
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 196 197
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LAKE DISTRICT
A dramatic landscape of dizzying ridges and
huge lakes gouged out by the slow march of
Ice Age glaciers, the Lake District is the most
beautiful corner of England. The lakes are
easily Englands most popular wilderness,
attracting 14 million-plus visitors each year.
Even in summer, day hikes on the mountains
with their swiftly changing microclimates
have proved fatal to experienced hikers so
before heading out, prepare thoroughly and
check the Weatherline (%0870-055 0575; www
.lake-district.gov.uk/weatherline).
Getting There & Away
National Express buses have direct connec-
tions from Windermere to Preston (9.90, two
hours, two daily) and Keswick to Birmingham
(31, 3 hours, two daily).
For all public transport inquiries contact
Traveline (%0870 608 2608; www.travelcumbria.org.uk).
There are several important bus services in the
Lake District, including bus 555, which runs
about once an hour year-round and links Lan-
caster with Carlisle, via Kendal, Windermere,
Ambleside, Grasmere and Keswick. Bus 599
is an open-top bus that runs during the sum-
mer between Windermere and Ambleside,
via Grasmere. Bus 505 runs from Ambleside
to Coniston via Hawkshead. Ask about Day
Ranger (7.50) and Explorer tickets (four/
seven days 17/25), which can offer better
value than single tickets.
Windermere is at the end of a spur off the
main railway line between Londons Euston
station and Glasgow. Services include London
(109, four hours, at least six daily) and Man-
chester (13.30, two hours, 15 daily).
Getting Around
Walking or cycling are the best ways to get
around, but bear in mind that conditions can
be treacherous, and the going can be very,
very steep. Country Lanes (%01539-444544; www
.countrylanes.co.uk; Windermere train station; per day from
15) rents many sizes of bikes.
Windermere, Bowness & Around
%015394 / pop 8500
Thanks to the railway, the Windermere/
Bowness conglomerate is the largest tourist
town in the Lake District. The two towns are
quite strung out, with lakeside Bowness a 30-
minute downhill walk from Windermere. The
excellent Windermere TIC (%46499; www.golakes.co.uk;
Victoria St) is conveniently located near the train
station at the northern end of town, and also
has internet access (30 minutes 3).
Offering beds in small rooms and plenty
of camaraderie, Lake District Backpackers Lodge
(%46374 or 44725; High St; dm 12.50) is 200m from
the train station; call ahead for reservations.
Popular with families and 2 miles from the train
station, Windermere YHA (%0870 770 6094; High Cross,
Bridge Lane, Troutbeck; dmunder/over 18yr 9.95/13.95) com-
mands a scenic spot on Lake Windermere in
the Troutbeck Valley. Numerous buses run past
Troutbeck Bridge, and in summer the hostel sends
a minibus to meet trains. Windermere is wall-
to-wall with B&Bs, which the TIC can book for
you. The great-value BrendanChase(%45638; www
.placetostaywindemere.co.uk; 1 College Rd; s/d from 25/40)
is close to the station and serves an excellent
cooked breakfast.
Bowness Kitchen (%45529; 4 Grosvenor Tce, Bowness)
serves tasty toasted sandwiches for 3, while Old
England (%42444; Church St; afternoon tea 11) offers
a refined riverside spot for afternoon tea.
Grasmere
%015394 / pop 2700
Occupying a graceful spot amid meadows
woods and water, Grasmere is a delight.
Unsurprisingly, in summer its completely
overrun. Information can be found at the TIC
(%35245; Red Bank Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm). The homes
of poet William Wordsworth are the major at-
tractions here. Dove Cottage & Museum (%35544;
www.wordsworth.org.uk; adult/concession/child 6.20/5/3.90;
h9.30am-5.30pm) is where Wordsworth wrote
much of his most important work. The admis-
sion price includes a worthwhile guided tour.
Just south of Grasmere, its accessible by bus
555 or 599 (in summer).
Grasmere Butharlyp How YHA (%0870 770 5836;
grasmere@yha.org.uk; Easedale Rd; dm under/over 18yr
10.95/15.50) is just north of the village.
Kendal
%01539 / pop 28,000
On the eastern outskirts of the Lake District
National Park, Kendal is a lively town and
makes for a good base from which to explore
the region. The TIC (%725758; Highgate) is in the
town hall.
Kendal Youth Hostel (%0870 770 5892; kendal@yha
.org.uk; 118 Highgate; dm under/over 18yr 13.95/17.50;
hdaily mid-AprAug, Tue-Sat Sep-early Apr) is right next
door to the Brewery, a wonderful arts complex
with a theatre, cinema and bar/bistro.
Kendal is on the branch railway line from
Windermere to Oxenholme, with connections
to Manchester.
NORTHEAST ENGLAND
By turns wild, pretty, historic and urban, this
corner of England offers excellent walking
and hiking country, two of Englands most
vibrant cities historic York and resurgent
postindustrial Newcastle plus a hoard of
world-class relics and ruins dating back two
turbulent millennia. Dont miss Roman em-
peror Hadrians vast wall straddling Englands
narrow neck.
YORK
%01904 / pop 181,000
A settlement of military, political, religious
and commercial eminence dating from
Roman times right up to the Industrial Rev-
olution, this bustling, tourist-friendly city is
easily explored on foot, despite the press of
visitors, and is one of Englands finest urban
attractions. Visitors from Yorks medieval
past would recognise, even today, much of its
wonderfully preserved heritage, such as the
spectacular Minster and the stout medieval
wall girdling the citys ancient alleyways.
Orientation
Although the city is relatively small, Yorks
streets are a confusing medieval tangle, fur-
ther confused by the fact that gate means
street and bar means gate. There are five
major landmarks: the walkable 2.5 miles of
city wall; York Minster at the northern corner;
Cliffords Tower, a 13th-century fortification
and mound at the southern end; the Ouse
River that cuts the centre in two; and the train
station just outside the western corner.
Information
City Screen (%541155; 13-17 Coney St; per 30min 2;
h10am-5pm) Internet access.
TIC (www.visityork.org) Exhibition Sq (%621756; De Grey
Rooms; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Nov-
Mar, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Apr-Oct); Train
Station (%621756; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm
Sun Nov-Mar, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-4.30pm Sun
Apr-Oct) The website is useful for accommodation listings
and special offers.
Whats on York (www.whatsonyork.com) Up-to-date
events listings.
Sights
Northern Europes largest Gothic cathedral,
YorkMinster (%557216; www.yorkminster.org; Minster Yard;
adult/concession 5/4; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-6.30pm
Sun) is the citys highlight and a 1000-year-old
treasure house of architecture and richly col-
oured stained glass, especially the giant Great
Eastern Window, whose 117 detailed panels cost
58 to create in 1408. Take an audio tour of the
Undercroft (adult/concession3/2, combinedticket 7/5) for
subterranean Roman, Norman and Viking re-
mains and treasure, and the atmospheric crypt.
The view past gargoyles and over the city atop
the Minsters 275-step tower is spectacular.
In a big train shed near the train station,
the National Railway Museum (%621261; www.nrm
.org.uk; Leeman Rd; admission free; h10am-6pm) is one
giant train set offering you the chance to get
up close to dozens of steam-age leviathans,
including the legendary Mallard and Flying
Scotsman, the liveried splendour of various
royal trains and a Japanese bullet train.
Also recommended is York Castle Museum
(%687687; www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk; Eye of York;
adult/child 6.50/4; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm
Nov-Mar), a labyrinth of rooms exploring 600
years of British life from medieval prisons
to Victorian parlours and where you can try
the bed of Yorks most famous prisoner, the
notorious highwayman Dick Turpin.
Yorks most popular visitor attraction,
the Jorvik Viking Centre (%543402; www.jorvik
-viking-centre.co.uk; Coppergate; adult/concession/child 7.20/
6.10/5.10; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar)
offers a time-machine ride through re-created
Viking streets.
The Association of Voluntary Guides offers
free two-hour walking tours (h10.15am & 2.15pm
Apr-Oct & 6.45pm Jun-Aug), departing across the
street from the TIC.
Sleeping
York is always crowded in summer and finding
a bed can be trying. Use the TICs accommoda-
tion booking service (3).
Marmadukes Hostel (%0870 066 0156; www
.marmadukeshostels.com; St Peters Grove; dm 10-18, d
from 18; i) Easily the best hostel in town,
newcomer Marmadukes offers plush, mod-
ern surroundings, small dorms (the largest
holds 10 beds) and plush doubles with wood
floors. The owners also run a smart, good-
value guesthouse next door; theres a summer
garden and a cosy little bar/caf. Its all a five-
minute walk from the city walls.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 198 199
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York International Youth Hostel (%0870 770 6102;
york@yha.org.uk; 42 Water End, Clifton; dm 13.50-18.50;
i) Large and busy, this hostel is reached
via a riverside footpath from the city centre.
Most rooms have four beds, and theres a good
caf/bar and private garden. Book in advance
to avoid the summer crush.
York Youth Hotel (%625904; www.yorkyouthhotel
.com; 11-13 Bishophill Senior; dm 12-18) Located in a
smart Georgian townhouse, this popular, if
basic hostel offers decent four-, six- and eight-
bed dorms, and a comfortable bar serving
hearty pub grub.
York Backpackers (%627720; www.yorkbackpackers
.co.uk; 88-90 Micklegate; dm 13-14, d 35; i) A group-
oriented place offering spartan dorm ac-
commodation beneath elaborately corniced
ceilings in a splendid 18th-century historic
house. Pros? It has a lively bar selling cheap
beer. Cons? The wooden bunks are rickety and
theres one huge, sleep-defying 36-bed dorm.
Eating
York is awash with individual and inexpensive
little tearooms serving light lunches and snacks.
Theres a vast array of restaurants too.
Bettys (%659142; St Helens Sq; lunch mains 6-8, cream
tea 7; h9am-9pm) A high-class treat complete
with a pianist tickling the ivories, this tearoom
serves excellent lunches and breakfasts along
with dainty pastries and great cream teas.
Meltons Too (%629222; 25 Walmgate; tapas 3-5,
mains 7.50-12; h10.30am-10pm) Unpretentious
(and often locally sourced) British fare such
as Yorkshire steak and kidney pie and Whitby
smoked haddock croquettes. Good tapas too.
Drinking & Entertainment
York is hardly party central, but the profusion
of atmospheric city-centre pubs more than
compensate.
Kings Arms (%659435; Kings Staith) An endur-
ingly popular riverside pub that really comes
into its own in summer.
Black Swan (%686911; Peasholme Green) A ram-
bling, higgledy-piggledy Tudor boozer hosting
live blues and jazz on Sundays and serving
great cask ales.
City Screen (%541144; 13-17 Coney St; admission
from 4) A great little independent art-house
cinema that also hosts regular live music and
comedy gigs.
Getting There & Away
National Express buses arrive throughout the
day from London (22.50, five to seven hours)
and four from Edinburgh (30.50, six to eight
hours). There are numerous daily trains from
Londons Kings Cross (83.50, two hours)
and from Edinburgh (63.50, 2 hours)
NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK
Wild er and more dramatic than the Dales, but
no less beautiful, the brooding North York Moors
(www.moors.uk.net) cover 550 sq miles of wild and
wonderful terrain coloured purple by heather
between July and September, and dotted with
old stone farmhouses and romantic ruins.
The moors run east to west, from the craggy
coastline that includes Whitby and Scarbor-
ough to the gentle rolling hills and steep cliffs
of Hambleton and Cleveland Hills.
The Moors Centre (%01439-772737; Lodge Lane,
Danby; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov, Dec & Mar,
11am-4pm Sat & Sun only Jan & Feb) offers good infor-
mation on activities including the 110-mile
Cleveland Way from Helmsley to Filey. The
steam trains of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway
(NYMR; %01751-473799; www.nymr.demon.co.uk; 1-day
pass adult/concession/child 14/12/7; hApr-Oct) offer
a more relaxing way to traverse the region,
running the picturesque 18 miles between
Pickering and Grosmont. Limited services
run in winter.
Starting point for the Cleveland Way,
Helmsley boasts a fine 13th-century ruined
castle (%770442; adult/concession/child 4/3/2; h10am-
6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar). There are several
camping grounds in the area but it is worth
pitching your tent at Foxholme Caravan Park
(%771241; www.ukparks.co.uk/foxholme; Harome; camp sites
8.50-12.50; hMar-Oct), 4 miles from Helmsley.
Helmsley Youth Hostel (%0870 770 5860; helmsley@yha
.org.uk; Carlton Lane; dm 13.95) is a friendly back-
packer option.
Getting There & Around
The Moorbus (%01845-597426; www.moors.uk.net)
services a network of stops (daily June to Sep-
tember, Sunday April to October) throughout
the region. Scarborough & District buses (%01723-
507300; www.eyms.co.uk) runs the regular bus 128
service to Helmsley from Scarborough via
Pickering (3.55, 90 minutes, hourly).
DURHAM
%0191 / pop 100,000
Worth a day trip at the very least, Durham is
a magnificent natural hill fortress defended on
three sides by a loop of the river Wear. Crowned
by a magnificent castle and Britains finest Nor-
man cathedral, its a hugely atmospheric place
right down to the cobbles of its medieval streets.
Being a posh university town, its also a lively
place packed with busy pubs and bars.
The compact town centre is best explored
on foot and its hard to get lost with the cathe-
dral looming permanently above. The train
station is northwest of the cathedral while the
bus station is on the western side.
The TIC (%384 3720; www.durhamtourism.co.uk;
Millennium Pl; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
has a free accommodation booking service.
Durham Cathedral (%386 4266; www.durham
cathedral.co.uk; Palace Green; admission free, tour adult/child
3.50/free; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-5pm Sun,
9.30am-8pm daily mid-Junearly Sep) is a magnificent
Unesco-listed landmark. Climb the 66m tower
(adult/child 3/1.50) for spectacular city views.
Accommodation vacancies are virtually
nonexistent during university graduation in
late June. Eleven colleges (%3345878; www.dur.ac.uk
/conference_tourism; r per person from 20) including
the castles medieval University College offer
a variety of rooms outside term time. Theres
no youth hostel so the best budget bet is to
stay with the friendly Mrs Metcalfe (%384 1020;
12 The Ave; s 22) book ahead.
The best food, drink and partying option is
Brown Sugar Bistro (%386 5050; 81-83 NewElvet; dishes
4-7; h7am-11pm), a great little bar, caf and
bistro for filling breakfasts and good ciabatta
sandwiches. Also try the Shakespeare (63Saddler St)
or the Varsity (46 Saddler St), a bright, backpacker-
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YORK
17
ENTERTAINMENT
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DRINKING
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EATING
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SLEEPING
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
City Screen........................... B2
King's Arms......................... C3
Black Swan.......................... D2
Melton's Too....................... C3
Betty's.................................. B2
York Youth Hotel................. B3
York Backpackers................. B3
York Minster........................ C2
York Castle Museum............. C3
National Railway Museum..... A2
Jorvik Viking Centre............... C3
Clifford's Tower..................... C3
City Tour............................ B2
Association of Voluntary Guides
4
3
2
1
INFORMATION
TIC........................................ A3
TIC......................................... B2
Post Office............................. B2
Gateway Internet Caf-Bar.... C2
City Screen........................(see 17)
200 201
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friendly, three-level pub with a good beer selec-
tion, cheap bar food and a covered garden.
Getting There & Away
Six National Express buses run from London
daily (27.50, six to eight hours) and three
arrive from Edinburgh (21.50, four to five
hours). The Arriva X1 service runs throughout
the day to Newcastle, excluding Sunday (5
one way, one hour).
Trains arrive from London (90.40, three
hours) and Edinburgh (44, two hours)
throughout the day via the main London
Edinburgh line. Trains also arrive every few
minutes from York (18.90, 45 minutes).
NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE
%0191 / pop 450,000 (including Gateshead)
Once synonymous with postindustrial decline
and decay, these days Newcastle is brimming
with confidence and a hedonistic yen to have
fun. With its distinctive Geordie accent thats
thicker than molasses, this unfailingly friendly
city has kick-started a vibrant arts and enter-
tainment scene (although its riotous nightlife
is a bit more of an established tradition).
Orientation & Information
Newcastles compact city centre is easy to
navigate on foot and theres also an excellent
public transport system including a metro
system circling the centre and connecting the
suburbs. The Central train and coach station
is just south of the centre.
Tourist information is available at the TIC
(%277 8000; www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com; Market St;
h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat).
Sights
Make sure to stroll the riverside where many
of Newcastles great buildings and structures
jostle for your attention.
The contemporary Baltic (%478 1810; www
.balticmill.com; Gateshead Quay; admission free; h10am-
7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mGateshead) art centre is
the Norths answer to Londons Tate Modern.
It occupies a vast former flourmill just across
the Gateshead Millennium Bridge.
The Sage Music Centre (%443 4666; www.thesage
gateshead.org; GatesheadQuays; h10am-11.30pm; mGates-
head), is an architecturally amazing live music
venue. Even if youre not attending a concert,
its well worth popping into the vast lobby for
a peep and spending a few moments at the jazz
and classical music listening posts.
If a museum dedicated to the science of
genetics sounds dull, think again because
Life (%243 8210; Times Sq; adult/concession 6.95/5.50;
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mCentral Sta-
tion) is a brilliantly realised audiovisual treat
with great simulated rides that take you on
hair-raising taxi trips through Newcastle and
bungee jumping off its bridge.
Sleeping
Albatross Backpackers (%233 1330; www.albatross
newscastle.com; 51 Grainger St; dm 16.50-19.50, s/d 45/47;
i; mCentral Station) Finally, the city centre has
good budget accommodation at this new hos-
tel with no curfew and 24-hour reception.
Newcastle YHA (%0870 770 5972; www.yha.org.uk;
107 Jesmond Rd; dm 12; mJesmond) A basic but
clean YHA property in quiet Jesmond. It fills
up quickly, so book ahead.
Eating
Many Newcastle restaurants have early-bird
dinner specials.
El Torero (%233 1122; The Side, Quayside; mains 4-6;
hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; mCentral Station) Decent
tapas right in the centre of town, perfect for
a light lunch or a later beer ballast pit stop.
Blakes Coffee House (%261 5463; 53 Grey St; break-
fast 2-4; h9am-6pm; mMonument) This central,
popular, high-ceilinged caf is the perfect spot
to gently recover from the night before.
Drinking & Entertainment
If you like the idea, as so many locals do, of
staggering from one packed drinking shed to
another to chase the seemingly eternal happy
hour then simply head to the Bigg Market and
Quayside areas. Local listings magazine the
Crack has the latest clubbing intelligence.
World Headquarters (%261 7007; Curtis Mayfield
House, Carliol Sq; mMonument) Fantastic club sounds
ranging from funk, soul and old school R&B
to rare groove, northern soul and a smattering
of house. Newcastles coolest nightclub.
Trent House Soul Bar (%261 2154; 1-2 Leazes Lane;
mHaymarket) Easygoing and run by the World
Headquarters folk (which explains the fan-
tastic jukebox), this is a great place to kick
the night off.
Baja Beach Club (%477 6205; Hillgate Quay; mGates-
head) The pumping pop, bikini-clad barmaids,
tropical theming and roaring drunk crowd
take this place so far over the top (and thats
saying something for this town) its compelling
(in a multicar pileup kind of way).
Getting There & Around
Daily flights to Newcastle International Airport (code
NCL; %1221488; www.newcastleairport.com), 20 minutes
from the city centre, arrive from Londons Hea-
throw and Gatwick airports, as well as Amster-
dam and Paris, with other cities served on a less
regular basis; see p155 for more. Regular ferries
arrive at Royal Quays from Norway, Sweden
and the Netherlands; see p154 for details.
National Express coaches travel from many
major UK cities, including London (25.50,
6 hours) and Edinburgh (11, 2 hours).
There are frequent trains from Edinburgh
(39, 1 hours), London (90.40, three hours)
and York (19.50, one hour).
The excellent metro (underground railway)
is quicker and more efficient than many local
buses. Unlimited travel for one day is 3.20.
NORTHUMBERLAND
Relatively unknown and unhyped, Northumber-
land offers wild, empty spaces, a rugged coast-
line and acres of empty beaches. Inland youll
find vast expanses of forested land, much of it
a dedicated national park, its horizons dotted
with the jagged remains of immense fortifica-
tions that speak of centuries of bloody conflict,
mostly with the Scots.
Visitor information centres in the region
include Hexham TIC (%01434-652220; www.north
umberland.gov.uk).
The most significant of these ruins is Hadrians
Wall. Brainchild of Roman Emperor Hadrian in
122 AD, it stretches for 73 miles from Newcastle
to Bowness-on-Solway near Carlisle, and was
the northern frontier of the empire for almost
300 years. It was superseded in Norman times
by dozens of castles and fortified houses, some
of which remain largely intact. One of the
best examples of the fortifications is Chesters
Roman Fort (%01434-681379; www.hadrianswallcountry
.org; adult/concession 3.80/2.90; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep,
10am-4pmOct-Mar) near Chollerford. Its museum
displays a fascinating array of Roman sculp-
tures and drawings found in the area.
Sleeping
Corbridge, Hexham, Haltwhistle and Brampton
make ideal bases for exploring the wall and
are stuffed with B&Bs and a number of cheap,
convenient YHA hostels.
Once Brewed Youth Hostel (%0870 770 5980;
oncebrewed@yha.org.uk; Military Rd, Bardon Mill; dm 13.95;
hFeb-Nov, closed Sun Feb & Oct, Mon Mar & Nov) Modern,
well equipped and next to an information
centre, it is only 3 miles from Housesteads
Roman Fort. Northumbria bus 685 (from
Hexham or Haltwhistle stations) drops you
at Henshaw. From there head north through
Henshaw for a mile following the signs for
Vindolanda until you see the visitor centre.
Greenhead Youth Hostel (%016977-47401; green
head@yha.org.uk; Greenhead, Brampton; dm 11.95; hApr-
Oct) A charming chapel-conversion beside a
babbling brook, with better facilities than
most. Its 3 miles west of Haltwhistle station
and is also served by the trusty bus 685 and
the White Star bus 185 from Carlisle. Opening
hours vary so call ahead.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
The Newcastle to Carlisle rail line has stations
at Hexham, Haydon Bridge, Bardon Mill,
Haltwhistle and Brampton but not all trains
stop at all stations. There are hourly services
from Carlisle and Newcastle on bus 685. From
June to September the hail-and-ride Hadri-
ans Wall Bus (www.northumberland-national-park.org.uk)
links Hexham, Haltwhistle and Carlisle with
all the main sites.
SCOTLAND
Dont make the mistake of thinking Scot-
land is just a continuation of England. Its a
dramatically different, proudly independent
country that deserves as much time as possible
in your itinerary. Its vast wilderness areas of
wild coast, remote islands, high moorland, vast
lochs, stone-hewn villages and snow-capped
mountains are an obvious draw outshining and
outsizing anything in England or Wales. The
array of terrain makes it an outward-bound
and adventure sport enthusiasts playground,
and one thats easily accessible from its cities.
The principal cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow,
are important and thriving centres rich with
historical, cultural and social interest (and
where the locals know how to party).

EDINBURGH
%0131 / pop 448,000
Scotlands proud and historic capital city is a
visual delight, built on a grand scale around
an imposing castle. Among the large, well-
proportioned Georgian buildings and the tan-
gle of arches and walkways youll find a rich
haul of excellent museums, galleries, pubs,
restaurants and entertainment options to suit
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 202 203
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every taste and budget. With all this and the
UKs most popular, vast and comprehensive
summer arts festival scene, visitors who plan a
brief stopover often end up staying longer.
Orientation
Edinburghs two most distinctive landmarks are
Arthurs Seat, the 251m rocky peak southeast
of the centre, and the castle, which dominates
Princes St Gardens. The Old and New Towns
are separated by Princes St Gardens and Waver-
ley train station. Buildings are restricted to the
northern side of Princes St, which is lined with
high-street chains. The Royal Mile (Lawnmar-
ket, High St and Canongate) is Princes Sts
parallel equivalent in the Old Town. The bus
station is in the New Town, off the northeastern
corner of St Andrew Sq, north of Princes St.

Information
INTERNET ACCESS
connect@edinburgh (%473 3800; 3 Princes St; per
15min 0.50; h9am-8pmJul & Aug, 9am-5pmSep-Jun)
Inside the visitor information centre near Waverly train station.
e-Corner (%558 7858; 54 Blackfriars St; per 30min 1;
h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) Fast internet
access.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Edinburgh Royal Infirmary (%536 1000; 51 Little
France Cres, Old Dalkeith Rd; h24hr) For accidents and
emergencies.
MONEY
American Express (%718 2501; 69 George St;
h9am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Wed)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Edinburgh & Scotland Information Centre
(%0845 225 5121; www.edinburgh.org; 3 Princes St;
h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Sep-Jun) Accommoda-
tion reservations, currency exchange and coach booking
services. Free city guide and pocket map.
Eventful Ed (www.eventful-edinburgh.com) Guide to
city festivals.
The List (www.list.co.uk) Local listings magazines events
site.
Sights
EDINBURGH CASTLE
Dominating the skyline like a city in the
clouds, the hilltop complex of Edinburgh Cas-
tle (%225 9846; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; Castle Hill;
adult/concession/child 10.30/8.50/4.50; h9.30am-6pm
Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5pm Nov-Mar) should be the first stop
for any visitor. Perched on an extinct volcano,
its a hodge-podge of architectural styles, rep-
resenting centuries of myriad historic uses.
The Romanesque 11th-century St Margarets
Chapel is Edinburghs oldest building; the
Scottish Crown Jewels are among the oldest in
Europe; and the Stone of Destiny, symbol of
Scottish nationhood, resides here. The castles
darker history is recorded in its newly opened
permanent Prisoners of War exhibition, where
disembodied wails permeate the shadows.
REAL MARY KINGS CLOSE
A formerly plague-ridden nest of hidden
streets, homes and shops, built over and pre-
served intact for centuries, comes to life at Real
Mary Kings Close (%430160; www.realmarykingsclose
.com; adult/concession/child 8/6/5; 2 Warristons Cl, High
St; h10am-9pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar) on the
Royal Mile. This fascinating underground
tour gives insight into the lives of the ordi-
nary folk who once lived here. A great crash
course in Edinburgh history but not for the
claustrophobic.
PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE &
SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT BUILDING
At the foot of the Royal Mile, the Palace of
Holyroodhouse (%556 5100; www.royalcollection
.org.uk; Canongate; adult/concession/child 8.80/7.70/4.80;
h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) is a
beautiful baroque confection mostly dating
from a reconstruction by Charles II in 1671.
Best known as the home of Mary Queen of
Scots, its the official Scottish residence of
the British royal family which means its
closed when the Queen turns up. Dont miss
the elaborate plaster ceiling and Brussels tap-
estries in the State Apartments.
The controversial new Scottish Parliament
Building (%348 5000; Canongate; admission free) is
just opposite and well worth a look when
Parliament isnt sitting. The project was jaw-
droppingly expensive, finished unforgivably
late and at the time of writing is still dogged
with problems, but its concrete, stone and
wood construction cleverly references Scot-
tish history.
Prestwick
Ayrshire
SCOTLAND
0 70 km
0 40 miles
Prestwick
Glasgow
Ben Hope
(927m)
Ben More
Assynt (998m)
Beinn Dearg
(1084m)
Ben Nevis
(1344m)
Five Sisters
of Kintail
(1068m)
Moirneag (1280m)
Merrick
(842m)
Grampian
Mountains
Cairngorms
National Park
Edinburgh
Inverness
Airport
Ballymena
Dingwall
Hexham
Aberfeldy
Larne
Lochinver
Newton
Stewart
Nairn
Portree
Helmsdale
Port Askaig
Dunkeld
Newcastleton
Durness
Lochboisdale
Kyleakin
Kyle of
Lochalsh
Dunvegan
Montrose
Arbroath
Girvan
Cairnryan
Blairgowrie
Kirkcudbright
Moffat
Lochmaddy
Peterhead
Lochgilphead
Tobermory
Lochaline
Cupar
Scrabster
Kelso
Gairloch
Bettyhill
Scone
Lochranza
John
o'Groats
Pitlochry
Tarbet
Craignure
Kinross
Wick
Brodick
Invergordon
Uig
St Andrews
Banff
Ullapool
Fort
Augustus
Braemar
Lanark
Falkirk
Newtonmore
Huntly
Kinlochbervie
Peebles
Coleraine
Tongue
Forfar
Crieff
Mallaig
Workington
Bonar
Bridge
Fort William
Tarbert
Dunoon
Ardrossan
Thurso
Brampton
Brora
Strabane
Wooler
Aviemore
Melvich
Coldstream
Glencoe
Haddington
Dunbar
Kingussie
Stromness
Dumfries
Oban
Stonehaven
Perth
Fraserburgh
Stranraer
Kirkcaldy
Elgin
Ayr
Dunfermline
Greenock
Hawick
Bangor
Campbeltown
Stornoway
Berwick-
upon-Tweed
Dumbarton
Kilmarnock
Motherwell
Inverness
Derry
Carlisle
Stirling
Dundee
Glasgow
Aberdeen
Belfast
Grantown-
on-Spey
Aberdeen
Airport
Dounreay
Buckie
Melrose
Biggar
Jedburgh
Galloway
Rannoch
Moor
Crianlarich
Kirkwall
Inchree
Corpach
EDINBURGH
Kintyre
Sleat
Westray
Firth
Stronsay
Firth
Loch
Indaal
Lough
Swilly
Solway
Firth
Loch
Ewe
Loch
Torridon
Sandwood
Bay
Sound of
Arisaig
Moray
Firth
Rattray
Bay
Loch
Linnhe
Sea
of the
Hebrides
Dornoch
Firth
Lough
Foyle
North
Channel
Sanday
Sound
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
I R I S H
S E A
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
N O R T H
S E A
N O R T H
S E A
T
h
e
M
in
c
h
Firth of
Forth
Firth of Tay
Hoy
Isle
of Skye
Arran
Lismore
Eday
Coll
Islay
South
Ronaldsay
Colonsay
Tiree
Sanday
North Uist
(Uibhist A Tauth)
Raasay
Jura
Westray
Barra
(Barragh)
Bute
Isle
of Rum
Stronsay
South Uist
(Uibhist A Deas)
Isle of
Mull
Isle of Lewis
(Leodhais)
Isle of
Harris
Mainland
Loch
Shin
Loch
Ness
Loch Awe
Lough
Neagh
Loch
Lomond
Loch Alsh
ARGYLL
ENGLAND
NORTHERN
IRELAND
Galloway
Forest
Park
Loch Lomond &
The Trossachs
590N
58N
57N
56N
55N
2W
3W
4W 5W
6W
70W
59N
7W
H
e
lm
sdale
N
ith
A93
A83
A75
M6
River Foyle
ORKNEY
ISLANDS
OUTER
HEBRIDES
INNER
HEBRIDES
Ronies
Hill (450m)
Lerwick
Ulsta
Toft
The
Deeps
Sumburgh
Roost
Yell
Sound
St
Magnus
Bay
NORTH SEA
Fetlar
Unst
Yell
SHETLAND
ISLANDS
60N
1W
2W
Same Scale as Main Map
To Shetland Islands
(see inset)
GETTING INTO TOWN
An Airlink service, operated by Lothian
Buses (www.lothianbuses.co.uk), shuttles be-
tween the airport and city centre (3, 30
minutes, every 15 minutes).
204 205
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MUSEUMS
Edinburgh has five impressive national art gal-
leries, linked by a free bus. First stop for many
is the National Gallery of Scotland (%624 6200; www
.natgalscot.ac.uk; The Mound; admission free; h10am-5pm
Fri-Wed, 10am-7pm Thu), a beautifully housed col-
lection of European blockbusters by the likes
of Titian, Rembrandt and Monet.
The Museum of Scotland (%247 4422; www.nms
.ac.uk; Chambers St; admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat,
noon-5pm Sun) offers a thorough telling of Scot-
lands story from its days as volcanic magma
to devolution.
Sleeping
Its essential to book for festival, New Year
and peak summer periods, and its never too
early to do so.
Smart City Hostel (%0870 892 3000; www.smartcity
hostels.com; 50 Blackfriars St; dm from 16.50, 2-bed r from
28.50) This huge new hostel was still a build-
ing site when we visited but should be worth
checking out. It promises a high-end, 620-bed
hostel, including women-only dorms, laundry
and caf.
Edinburgh Backpackers Hostel (%220 1717; www
.hoppo.com; 65 Cockburn St; dm 14-20, d/tr/q from 50/64/78)
Bright and friendly, and close to pubs, this is
a good bet. It has a large TV and pool room,
and a few quiet doubles over the road, but the
shower/bed ratio could be higher.
Brodies Backpackers (%556 6770; www.brodies
hostels.co.uk; 12 & 93 High St, Royal Mile; dm 10-19.50,
s/d 35/40;i) Occupying two sites (go for the
slightly smarter one at number 93, which
also has the private rooms), the dorms are
fine with superior mattresses, although new
carpets in the older block wouldnt hurt.
St Christophers Inn (%2261446; www.st-christophers
.co.uk; 9-13 Market St; dm 13-19; i) With two bars
and proximity to city-centre nightlife, this is
the party hostel. All dorms have en suites and
theres an inexpensive restaurant attached.
Lined with solid Georgian townhouses,
Pilrig St is a 10-minute walk from the centre
and has about a dozen B&Bs. Our favourite
is Balmoral Guest House (%554 1857; www.balmoral
guesthouse.co.uk; 32 Pilrig St; s/d from 30/45), quiet and
friendly, with comfortable beds and attractive
period dcor.
Also recommended:
High St Hostel (%557 3984; www.scotlands-top-hostels
.com; 8 Blackfriars St; dm11-12.50) With luck a major
renovation programme will see the old carpets chucked out
and the lingering aroma of stale socks banished forever.
Belford Hostel (%225 6209; www.hoppo.com; 6/8
Douglas Gardens; dm incl breakfast 15-17, d/tr/q from
40/58/79; i) Church conversion with excellent bar
lounge. Close to two major galleries and a 10-minute walk
from the city centre.
Eating
Many of the citys 700 bars also offer good
budget- to mid-priced meals. Self-caterers
have easy access to several small urban su-
permarkets including Tesco Metro (94 Nicolson St;
7am-midnight) along Nicolson St.
Always Sunday (%622 0667; 170 High St, Royal Mile;
mains 4-6; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sun) This
elegant, modern caf is the best on the Royal
Mile serving Fairtrade coffee, wheat-free
dishes, good light lunches and plenty of vege-
tarian options.
oValvona & Crolla (%556 6066; 19 Elm Row;
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4.30pm Sun) The makings
of a luxury picnic including a great array of
cheeses, bread and deli goodies such as Span-
ish ham and Scottish smoked salmon await at
this atmospheric old providore.
Monster Mash (%225 7069; 4 Forrest Rd; mains 5-9;
h8am-10pm) A greasy spoon caf reinvented,
Monster Mash serves generous portions of
Brit comfort food fried breakfasts, sausage
and mash, shepherds pie, steak pie fast and
without fuss.
Drinking & Clubbing
The array of pubs and bars is vast, as youd
expect from a capital city, tourist hot spot and
student town. Edinburgh also has a frenetic
arts and entertainment scene that stretches
well beyond the traditional festival period.
Pick up fortnightly local magazine the List
(2.20) for the latest info .
Belushis (%226 1446; 9-13 Market St; hnoon-1am)
Attached to St Christophers Inn, Belushis has
a ready client base of young partygoers but
the late licence, live music and lively DJ sets
make this worth considering even if youre
not sleeping upstairs.
Bow Bar (%226 7667; 80 The West Bow, Victoria St)
Small and popular, and attracting a slightly
older crowd. Youll find a good real ale and
single malt whisky selection at the bar.
Sandy Bells (%225 2751; 25 Forrest Rd; h11.30-1am
Mon-Sat, 12.30-11.30pm Sun) This tiny pub is the
best spot in the city to experience traditional
Scottish music, with free performances almost
every night and also on Sunday afternoons.
Fills up quickly on weekends.
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Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 206 207
B
R
I
T
A
I
N

SCOTLAND Gl as gow l one l y pl a ne t . c om
B
R
I
T
A
I
N

l one l y pl a ne t . c om SCOTLAND Gl as gow
Liquid Room (%225 2564; 9c Victoria St; admission
4-8; h10.30pm-3am Mon-Sat, 11pm-3am Sun) A popu-
lar mid-sized club, the subterranean Liquid
Room has the best indie night in town every
Friday. Its also a good live venue attracting
some big rock acts.
Entertainment
Filmhouse (%228 2688; www.filmhousecinema.com;
88 Lothian Rd; tickets 5.50) is a great independent
movie house. Its eclectic programme runs
the gamut of the classic, the obscure and the
downright weird. Also the home of the August
Edinburgh International Film Festival (www
.edfilmfest.org.uk).
Getting There & Away
AIR
The number of connections between Edin-
burgh International Airport (%333 1000) and other
European cities is increasing all the time,
including to Amsterdam, Paris and Madrid,
while US flights also arrive from New York.
There are many arrivals from the rest of the
UK via such hubs as London, Bristol, Bir-
mingham, Cardiff, Luton and Manchester
and from other Scottish cities including Aber-
deen and Inverness; see p155 for more details.
BUS
National Express and Scottish Citylink (%0870
550 5050; www.citylink.co.uk) services arrive from a
multitude of locations throughout the UK
at St Andrew Sq bus and coach station. City-
link buses travel from Aberdeen (17.20, 3
hours, hourly), Glasgow (4.20, 1 hours,
every 20 minutes) and Inverness (16.70,
four hours, hourly), while National Express
services arrive from London (31, nine to 12
hours, seven daily), Newcastle (15.20, three
hours, three daily) and York (30.50, 5 to
nine hours, four daily).
Megabus (%01738-639095; www.megabus.com)
runs frequent refurbished double-decker bus
services to Edinburgh from Glasgow (1
hours), Dundee (two hours) and Perth (1
hours). Fares are as low as 1 (plus 0.50
booking fee).
TRAIN
Up to 20 trains run daily from Londons Kings
Cross station (4 to 5 hours) and fares vary
considerably. ScotRail (%0845 748 4950; www.first
group.com/scotrail) runs two northern lines to Ed-
inburgh from Inverness (34.90, 3 hours)
and Aberdeen (34.90, 2 hours), with trains
throughout the day. There are trains every 15
minutes from Glasgow (9.90, 45 minutes).
Getting Around
Local adult bus fares start at 1 and exact
change is required. For full information
including details on the night bus system
pick up a free Edinburgh Travelmap from the
visitor information centre.
GLASGOW
%0141 / pop 577,000
It may not be as picturesque as its richer
neighbour Edinburgh, but the former indus-
trial powerhouse of Glasgow is grittier, edgier
and arguably more fun. Overflowing with
good museums and galleries, the best night-
life in Scotland and a lively arts scene (kept
vibrant and cutting edge by the presence of a
good art school), Glasgow also makes a good
jumping-off point for the Highlands.
Orientation
The two train stations (Central and Queen
St), Buchanan St bus station and the TIC
are all within a couple of blocks of George
Sq, the citys main public space. Running
along a ridge in the northern part of the city,
Sauchiehall (pronounced sokky-hall) St is a
busy pedestrian mall with high-street shops
at its eastern end and pubs and restaurants
to the west. It connects with Buchanan St, a
second major thoroughfare.

Information
American Express (%222 1401; 115 Hope St;
h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
easyInternet (%222 2364; 57 St Vincent St; per hr
1.40; h24hr)
Glasgow Royal Infirmary (%211 4000; 84-86 Castle
St, h24hr) For accident and emergency care.
TIC (%204 4400; www.seeglasgow.com; 11 George
Sq; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr, 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,
10am-6pm Sun May, Jun & Sep, 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
6pm Sun Jul & Aug) Has a currency exchange. The website
offers online accommodation bookings.
Sights
If you only visit one museum in Glasgow make
it KelvingroveArt Gallery&Museum (%2872699; www
.glasgowmuseums.com; Argyle St; admission free; h10am-
5pmMon-Thu & Sat, 11am-5pmFri & Sun). Contained in
this Victorian fairy tale of a stately home is a
magpies nest of oddities suits of armour, a
giraffe plus a Spitfire fighter plane hanging from
the ceiling. Theres also plenty of serious art
including Renaissance paintings from the likes
of Botticelli, impressionists including, Whistler
and Monet, works from local boy Charles Ren-
nie Mackintosh and, in pride of place, Salvador
Dals Christ of St John of the Cross.
Mackintoshs greatest architectural achieve-
ment is the Glasgow School of Art (%353 4526; www
.gsa.ac.uk; 167 Renfrew St; tours adult/concession 6.50/4.80).
Call or check the website for tour times.
The Gallery of Modern Art (%229 1996; www
.glasgowmuseums.com; Queen St; admission free; h10am-
5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 11am-5pm Fri & Sun) is a most ac-
cessible and very popular collection of works
housed in a beautiful neoclassical building in
the city centre. A good introduction to some
of Scotlands finest contemporary artists.
Looming on a hill above the nearby cathe-
dral, Glasgows atmospheric necropolis (%287
3961; Wishart St; admission free; hdawn-dusk) is like
no other cemetery in Scotland. A fascinating
glimpse into the vanity and wealth of a bygone
age, there are also some of the best views of the
city from between the crooked tombs.
Sleeping
Glasgow Youth Hostel (%0870 004 1119; 7-8 Park Tce;
dm 14-16; i) A grand hostel with acres of
wood panelling and a good address next to
a leafy park. The four- and eight-bed dorms
are excellent.
oEuro Hostel (%222 2828; www.euro-hostels
.co.uk; 318 Clyde St; dm 14-19, s/d 35/40; i) A large,
party-friendly mega hostel in a high-rise close
to Central Station. Clean and recently refur-
bished, with a women-only floor, a bar, TV
room and plenty of other facilities.
Campus Village (%553 4148; www.rescat.strath.ac.uk;
off Collins St; r per person incl breakfast 27-33; hJun-Sep)
A large, modern complex of student accom-
modation at the University of Strathclyde.
Well located near the cathedral, facilities are
clean but basic. Some singles have shared
bathrooms; phonecards have to be purchased
to use the in-suite phones.
Eating
Glasgow offers some great, fresh, inexpensive
dining options.
Mono (%552 9458; 12 Kings Court; mains 2.50-6;
hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, noon-10pm Fri & Sat) An endear-
ingly scruffy veggie caf, bar, health-food shop
and leftfield record store. Tofu jerk with bas-
mati rice, hummus, falafel and veggie burgers
are some of the options, washed down with
an excellent Fraoch Heather Ale.
Wee Curry Shop (%3530777; 7BuccleuchSt; hnoon-
2pm Mon-Sat, 5.30-10.30pm Sat) A great little south
Indian restaurant with a two-course 4.75 lunch
special. Prices jump a bit at night but with a
bring-your-own beer policy, youll save anyway.
Book ahead, its not called wee for nothing.
Caf Andaluz (%3391111; 2Cresswell Lane; tapas 2.75-
5; hnoon-10.30pmMon-Thu, noon-11pmFri &Sat, 6-10.30pm
Sun) Once youve fashioned some earplugs from
the Manchego cheese to keep out the inter-
minable muzak, youll be ready to enjoy the
inexpensive hot and cold tapas here.
Fresh (%552 5532; 51-53 Cochrane St; juices & smooth-
ies 2.50; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm
Sun) The city-centres only fresh-juice bar has
the dcor of a day spa to complement its wide
range of fruity pick-me-ups.
Drinking & Clubbing
Glasgow has plenty of good pubs and street
cafs the piazza around the Gallery of Mod-
ern Art is a great spot for sitting outside and
watching the world go by. Glasgow is also
Scotlands entertainment and nightlife capital.
Plug in to whats on by picking up a copy of the
List (2.20) or the monthly Gig Guide, available
free in many pubs. Tickets can be booked via
Ticket Scotland (%204 5151; www.ticketsscotland.com).
Blackfriars (%552 5924; 36 Bell St; hnoon-mid-
night Mon-Sat, 12.30pm-midnight Sun) Glasgows best
traditional pub couldnt be more laid-back,
attracting a healthy mix of locals, students
and visitors.
Bar 10 (%5721448; 10Mitchell Lane; h10am-midnight
Mon-Sat, noon-midnight Sun) A busy, metropolitan
Euro-bar offering drinks specials and DJs on
most nights.
King Tuts Wah Wah Hut (%221 5279; 272a St Vin-
cent St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun) A
legendary live music spot where the early
indie versions of Oasis and Radiohead started
out. Live music nightly.
GETTING INTO TOWN
The bus 905 shuttle service runs from Glas-
gow International Airport to Buchanan bus
station. Services cost 3.30 and run from
6am Monday (from 7am Sunday) to mid-
night Saturday, every 10 to 15 minutes
during the week and every 30 minutes at
weekends.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 208 209
B
R
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A
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SCOTLAND Gl as gow l one l y pl a ne t . c om
B
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A
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l one l y pl a ne t . c om SCOTLAND Sout hwes t Sc ot l and
Barrowlands (%552 4601; www.glasgow-barrowland
.com; 244 Gallowgate) Legendary old dancehall
venue where some of the larger visiting bands
crack open their guitar cases. Check online
and book ahead.
Arches (%565 1000; 253 Argyle St; admission 5-12;
h11pm-3am Wed-Sat) A fantastic, modular club
space that can turn from an intimate multi-
venue scene to pumping mega club (hosting
the likes of Carl Cox and Laurent Garnier).
Theres also live music and an excellent bar
and caf (open 11am to late Monday to Satur-
day) under one of the high brick arches.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Ten miles west of the city, Glasgow International
Airport (%887 1111) receives flights from the
UK and the rest of the world. Several no-frills
airlines, including easyJet, BmiBaby and Ryan-
air, provide domestic services from London
and other cities; see p155 for more details.
Dont confuse GIA with Glasgow Prestwick, a
smaller airport, much, much further out.
BUS
All long-distance buses arrive and depart from
Buchanan St Bus Station (%333 3708; Killermont St).
Silver Choice (%01355-230403; www.silverchoicetravel
.co.uk) offers the best deal from London (25,
8 hours).
National Express services arrive from Lon-
don (31, 8 to 10 hours, seven daily) and
York (30.50, seven to 10 hours). Scottish City-
link connects Glasgow with most of Scotlands
towns and cities, including frequent services
to Edinburgh (4.20, 1 hours, every 20 min-
utes), Aberdeen (17.20, four hours), Fort Wil-
liam (14, three hours), Inverness (16.70,
four hours), Oban (13.10, three hours), Skye
(24.80, 6 hours) and Stirling (4.20, 45 min-
utes). Megabus runs to three Scottish cities:
Dundee (two to three hours), Edinburgh (1
hours) and Perth (two hours). Fares are as low
as 1 (plus 0.50 booking fee).
TRAIN
Trains arrive through the day from London
Euston and London Kings Cross. Its more
comfortable than a long-haul bus trek but
prices can vary considerably (from 30) for
the five-hour direct trip. ScotRail operates the
West Highland line north to Oban and Fort
William and to Dundee (23.10, 1 hours),
Aberdeen (34.90, 3 to four hours) and Inver-
ness (34.90, 3 hours). There are many trains
from Edinburgh (from 9.90, 50 minutes).
Getting Around
The city is covered by a good bus system but
passengers often need exact change. The First-
Day ticket allows unlimited all-day travel after
9.30am for 2.45.
The highly efficient SPT subway (%0870 608
2608; www.spt.co.uk) loop connects 15 stations in
the centre, west and south of the city; single SPT
tickets cost 1. For travel after 9.30am, theres an
unlimited-trip Discovery Ticket for 1.90.
SOUTHWEST SCOTLAND
Southwest Scotland offers some fine Scot-
tish scenery bare hills, moors, woods and
a craggy coastline without the attendant
tour buses and crowds you might find in the
Highlands. Warmed by Gulf Stream currents,
it enjoys the regions mildest climate (were
speaking relatively here) and was the home of
Robbie Burns, Scotlands national poet.
Isle of Arran
The Isle of Arran is often described as Scotland
in miniature because of its compact variety
of scenery including sheep-strewn farmland,
rock-sheltered beaches, looming peaks such
as Goat Fell and a coastal road thats perfect for
cycling. The Brodick TIC (%303774; www.ayrshire
-arran.com; The Pier; h9am-5pmMon-Thu&Sat, 9am-7.30pm
Fri, 10am-5pm Sun May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) is
stocked with helpful information.
The highly recommended Brodick Castle
(%302202; adult/child 10/7; h11am-4.30pm Apr-Sep,
11am-3.30pm Oct), 2.5 miles north of the TIC, is
a magnificent 13th-century sandstone pile
full of silver, porcelain and hunting trophies
of the stuffed head variety.
Call the TIC for accommodation assistance
or head for the Belvedere Guest House (%302397;
stb@vision-unlimited.co.uk; Alma Rd, Brodick; s/d 20/40).
The nearest SYHA hostel (0870 004 1140; dm 12-14;
hMar-Oct) is 14 miles north in Lochranza.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Brodick is only an hour by CalMac (%302166;
www.calmac.co.uk passenger/car 5/36.50) ferry ride
from Ardrossan (four to six daily). Six buses
run daily Monday to Saturday from Brodick
to Lochranza (2, 45 minutes) and there are
additional services around the island or rent
two wheeled transport from Mini Golf Cycle Hire
(%07968-024040; Shore Rd, Brodick).
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210 211
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SCOTLAND Cent r al Sc ot l and l one l y pl a ne t . c om
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l one l y pl a ne t . c om SCOTLAND Wes t er n Hi ghl ands
CENTRAL SCOTLAND
North of the big cities but before the High-
lands start their climb north, this area of gently
rolling hills is home to some of Scotlands
most important secondary towns, including
striking and historic Stirling. On the coast
near Dundee, the ancient university town of
St Andrews and spiritual home of the game of
golf is well worth the detour.
Stirling
%01786 / pop 45,000
Commanding spectacular views over the sur-
rounding plains and snow-capped mountains,
Stirling Castle is one of Scotlands two most
spectacular fortifications and is the main rea-
son for a visit to this lively little town.
Head up the steep streets from the train
station and youll find some fascinating old
stone buildings, the SYHA hostel and the
windswept castle itself. Take a slight detour
to the TIC (%08707-200620; 41 Dumbarton Rd; h9am-
7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm Sun Jul & Aug, hours vary
Sep-Jun) for local information.
The thick, grey walls of Stirling Castle
(%450000; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; adult/concession/
child 8/6/2; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5pm Nov-Mar),
perched dramatically on an extinct volcano,
contain some excellent sights and experiences,
including an absorbing guided tour.
One of Scotlands best SYHA properties,
Stirling Youth Hostel (%0870 004 1149; St John St; dm
14-15, tw 35; i) occupies a large old church
building near the castle. Rooms are small and
each has en suite facilities. The huge dining
room/lounge area is a great hang-out spot.
Munro Guesthouse (%472695; www.munroguest
house.com; 14 Princes St; s/d 35/48) is a cosy little
B&B right in the heart of town. If youre after
refreshment, Peckhams (%447047; 52 Port St; mains
7-9; h10am-10pm) is a great little delicatessen
with an inexpensive bistro and caf serving
some good-value wines.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Scottish Citylink buses arrive during the day
from Aberdeen (14.50, 3 hours, four daily),
Edinburgh (6.20, one hour, three daily) and
Glasgow (4.20, 45 minutes, hourly), as well
as other towns and cities.
ScotRail services arrive from Dundee
(13.70, 50 minutes), Edinburgh (5.90, 50
minutes, twice hourly), Glasgow (6.10, 40
minutes, every two hours) and other cities
during the day.
St Andrews
%01334 / pop 14,200
An ancient university town and Scotlands
former ecclesiastical capital, St Andrews is
best known for its affiliations with the game
of golf.
The TIC(%472021; www.visit-standrews.co.uk; 70Market
St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar, 9.30am-5pm daily Apr-
Sep) has a free town guide with a street map.
The turmoil of the Reformation reduced
Scotlands largest church, St Andrews Cathe-
dral (%472563; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; The Pends;
adult/child incl St Andrews Castle 6/2.70; h9.30am-6.30pm
Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Oct-Mar), to rubble in 1559.
Half-demolished walls hint at its past splen-
dour while a visitor centre explains its turbu-
lent history. The 12th-century tower offers
spectacular views. A short, windswept walk
away is the ruined St Andrews Castle (%477196;
The Scores; adult/child 4.50/2; h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep,
9.30am-4.30pm Oct-Mar).
Golf fans take over the towns accommoda-
tion during major tournaments and through-
out the summer, so make peak bookings well
in advance. Five minutes from the bus station,
the only hostel in town is St Andrews Tourist
Hostel (%479911; www.standrewshostel.com; St Marys
Pl; dm 12-16; h7am-11pm). Its clean, basic and
friendly, with only a few bunks per room.
There are several good eating options, in-
cluding the Eating Place (%475671; 177-179 South
St; mains 4-7; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun),
which serves sweet and savoury Scottish pan-
cakes and tapas upstairs. Ma Bells (%472611; 40
The Scores) is where students and backpackers
spend most of their drinking time.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Stagecoach Fife (%01334-474238) runs buses from
Edinburgh (7, two hours, hourly) and Dundee
(3.10, 30 minutes, half-hourly).
The nearest train station is at Leuchars (a
10 taxi or 2.10 bus 96 or 99 ride away), with
trains from Aberdeen, Dundee, Edinburgh
and Inverness.
EASTERN HIGHLANDS
Like a craggy nose jutting defiantly into the
North Sea, the land between Perth and the
Firth of Tay in the south and Inverness and
Moray Firth in the north offers great expanses
of empty beach, craggy cliffs teeming with sea-
birds and tiny stone fishing villages. Aberdeen
is the regions biggest city, providing the main
ferry port for Shetland.
Aberdeen
%01224 / pop 203,450
Founded in part on the demand for whale
oil, today granite-hewn Aberdeen is boom-
ing on oil again, black gold this time from
the North Sea. This busy working town and
harbour lacks the historical charms of other
Scottish towns of its size and is really only
worth visiting if youre heading on to another
part of the nearby coast or some of the remote
northern isles.
The TIC (%288828; www.aberdeen-grampian.com;
23 Union St; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jul &
Aug, hours vary Sep-Jun) is on the corner of Union
St and Shiprow.
SLEEPING
The booming oil economy means beds fill
up during the working week when oilfield
workers monopolise much of the citys ac-
commodation. Look for weekend deals.
SYHA Aberdeen Youth Hostel (%0870 004 1100; 8
Queens Rd; dm 13-15; i) This imposing granite
house a mile west of the train station is clean
and welcoming but a bit too clinical to be
truly cosy.
Clusters of B&Bs line Bon Accord St and
Springbank Tce (both close to the centre).
Dunrovin Guest House (%586081; 186 Bon Accord St; s/d
30/50, with shared bathroom 27/40) gets our vote for
its hearty Scottish breakfast (with fresh fruit
and vegetarian options). Book ahead.
EATING & DRINKING
Many cafs, bars and restaurants cluster close
to the TIC along scrubbed and refurbished
Belmont St.
Prince of Wales (%640597; 7 St Nicholas Lane; mains
5) The areas best pub for a cheap and cheerful
lunch. The city-centre institution offers some
great Scottish ales to help the chips slip down.
Ashvale Fish Restaurant (%596581; 42-48 Great
Western Rd; mains 6-9, takeaway 3; h11.45am-11pm)
Further out of town, youll find this quality,
award-winning fish-and-chip joint.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Six miles northeast of the city centre, Aberdeen
Airport (code ABZ; %0870 040 0006; www.aberdeenairport
.com) receives flights from 34 destinations in 21
countries. There are also regular but expensive
Loganair (%0870 850 9850; www.loganair.co.uk) flights
from Orkney (from 147) and Shetland.
The passenger ferry terminal is a short walk
east of the train and bus stations. NorthLinkFerries
(%0845 600 0449; www.northlinkferries.co.uk) runs to
Orkney (passenger/car from 15.60/61.50, six
hours, daily) and Shetland (passenger/car from
20.40/82.80, 12 hours, three weekly).
There are National Express buses from
London (40, 12 hours, five daily). Scottish
Citylink runs frequent services from Edin-
burgh (17.20, three hours), Glasgow (17.20,
four hours) and other Scottish cities.
Rail services include departures to London
Kings Cross (122.50, 7 hours) and Scottish
destinations including Dundee (20.70, one
hour) and Inverness (21.50, 2 hours).
WESTERN HIGHLANDS
If you choose to explore just one part of
Scotlands vast wilderness, make it the
Western Highlands. Stretching from Ran-
noch Moor to Fort William on the west
coast, this is a majestically wild region of
mist-covered glens, ice-cold lochs and tow-
ering snow-covered mountains, including
Ben Nevis, Britains highest peak. To the
south lies Loch Lomond, the largest lake
in Scotland; to the west, the rugged Isle of
Mull. The 95-mile West Highland Way (www
.west-highland-way.co.uk) between Fort William and
Glasgow is one of Britains best hiking trails
(for moderately accomplished ramblers).
Fort William
%01397 / pop 10,000
Situated on the banks of Loch Linnhe and at
the bottom of the great Caledonian Canal,
Fort William is no great shakes as a destina-
tion in itself but useful as a base for exploring
the local mountains. Theres at least one of
everything here that a visitor might need
including hiking shops, cafs, pubs and ac-
commodation. The TIC (%703781; www.discover
-fortwilliam.com; Cameron Sq; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
6pm Sun) has local information.
The lively, convivial Fort William Backpack-
ers (%700711; www.scotlands-top-hostels.com; Alma Rd;
dm 12; ni) is a short walk from the bus
and train stations and has impressive hillside
views. Bank St Lodge (%700070; www.accommodation
-fortwilliam.com; dm 13; d/tr/q 45/55/65) is a tad sterile
but very central.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Scottish Citylink services connect to Glasgow
(14, three hours, four daily) and Edinburgh
(19.90, 3 hours, three daily), both via
Glencoe. The spectacular West Highland Line
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 212 213
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SCOTLAND Nor t her n Hi ghl ands & I s l ands l one l y pl a ne t . c om
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l one l y pl a ne t . c om SCOTLAND Nor t her n Hi ghl ands & I s l ands
(www.scotrail.co.uk) has three daily trains from
Glasgow (20.30, 3 hours).
Some local buses are run by Rapsons/Highland
Country (%702373; www.rapsons.co.uk), but call ahead
for timetables since services are seasonal. Off-
Beat Bikes (%704008; 117 High St; h9am-5.30pm)
rents bikes from 10 per half-day.
Oban
%01631 / pop 8500
A hub for summertime holidaymakers, Oban is
a traditional resort town combining pretty bay-
front vistas with a raft of visitor amenities. The
bus, train and ferry terminals are together beside
the harbour. The TIC (%563122; Argyll Sq; h9am-7pm
summer) is in a former church nearby.
Oban Backpackers Lodge (%562107; www.scotlands
-top-hostels.com; Breadalbane St; dm 12-13; ni) is
less than a mile from the train station and
has a welcoming ambience, including a
friendly lounge area. The SYHA Oban Youth
Hostel (%0870 004 1144; Corran Esplanade; dm 13-15,
s/d 17.50/35; i) is a little more institutional
but has great views across the bay and a smart
new block of private rooms.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are Scottish Citylink buses from Glas-
gow (13.10, three hours, four daily), Fort
William (8.20, 1 hours, four daily) and
other Scottish destinations. Three daily trains
travel from Glasgow (16.80, three hours). Cal-
Mac (%566688; www.calmac.co.uk) ferries link Oban
with the Inner and Outer Hebrides.
Isle of Mull
Scotlands third-largest island abounds with
great mountain views and pretty seascapes,
drawing thousands of visitors to its charming
shores every summer, along with the especially
bloodthirsty strain of Mull midge (thankfully
only a pest in summer). While most visitors
arrive at the Craignure ferry terminal, many
quickly head north to the capital and picture-
perfect fishing port of Tobermory, whose
quaysides are lined with houses in cheerful
primary colours and cosy pubs.
There are TICs in both towns but only the
Craignure TIC (%01680-812377; opposite the ferry termi-
nal; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-5.15pm Fri, 9am-5pm
Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) is open year-round. Call ahead
for accommodation options.
Dont expect to turn up and easily find a
bed in summer, as accommodation is often
booked out. Call in advance for the tiny SYHA
Tobermory Youth Hostel (%0870 004 1151; Main St;
dm 12.50).
For a filling pub lunch or weekend evening
of live music, MacGochans (%01688 302350; Ledaig,
Tobermory; mains 3.50-6) is popular with locals
and visitors.
Caledonian MacBrayne (%08705-650000; www
.calmac.co.uk) ferries depart at least five times
daily in summer and twice in winter between
Oban and Craignure. The journey takes 45
minutes and costs 4.05 per person one way.
Bicycles cost 1 and cars 36.
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS
One of Europes last great wildernesses, this
breathtakingly beautiful swathe of endless
moors, glassy lochs and wind-buffeted coastal
cliffs gets you as close to nature as you could
wish to be. Its also the ancient homeland of
Gaelic culture, and home to the British main-
lands northernmost village, John oGroats.
Its easy to underestimate the size of the
region, so give yourself extra time to explore
here via air, bus, train or ferry. Public transport
outside the main centres can be as rare as a
wild haggis sighting, and some services are
severely curtailed out of season.
The Cairngorms
The Cairngorms are as dramatic and demand-
ing as any of the Scottish ranges, and the coast-
line, especially from Stonehaven to Buckie, is
exceptional. With its excellent visitor ameni-
ties, Aviemore makes a good base. This is where
hikers, bikers and climbers congregate to take
on the Scottish outdoors, and its the countrys
skiing and snowboarding action centre. While
the ski season traditionally runs from Decem-
ber until April, recent light snowfalls have seen
closures as early as February.
The Cairngorms National Park (www.cairngorms.co
.uk) doesnt rely on snow to show its visitors a
good time. Combining wild mountain tundras
and secluded ancient pinewoods, its burst-
ing with unique wildlife and lush colours
year-round.
Aviemore Youth Hostel (%08700041104; 25Grampian
Rd; dm12.50-14; i) is modern, well equipped and
close to the tourist office.
Inverness
%01463 / pop 61,000
The capital of the Highlands, rapidly expand-
ing Inverness is the perfect base for planning a
trip through the region. Its an attractive town
straddling the Ness River, although it has few
attractions of its own.
The town centre is on the rivers eastern
bank, along with the bus and train stations,
new Eastgate shopping centre and several
hostels. The TIC (%234353; Castle Wynd; h9am-
6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) is near the castle and
offers currency exchange and internet access
(per 20 minutes 1).
No visit to Inverness is complete without a
trek to legendary Loch Ness, a vast, deep body
of water reputed to be the home of Nessie the
monster. While tourists by the coach load roll
up here every few minutes in the summer,
theres no doubt that a half-day excursion
is worth the Citylink bus fare (adult return
7.30). The romantic ruin of Urqhuart Castle
(%01456-450551; adult/concession/child 6/4.50/1.20;
h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat & 2-
4.30pm Sun Oct-Mar) commands a great spot above
the loch. Entry includes a movie presentation
on the castle history.
Nearby Drumnadrochit earns a largely
tacky living from the cult of the monster.
Loch Ness 2000 (%01456-450573; adult/concession/child
5.95/4.50/3.50; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-6pm Jun & Sep,
9am-5.30pm Oct, 9.30am-5pm Easter-May, 10am-3.30pm Nov-
Easter) traces the historic hunts for Nessie.
SLEEPING
Inverness fills quickly in the summer so book
ahead.
Bazpackers Backpackers Hostel (%717663; 4
Culduthel Rd; dm 10-15; i) Clean and compact
with some great views across the river. The
homey feel is enhanced by a wood-burning
stove.
Inverness Millburn Youth Hostel (%0970 004 2227;
VictoriaDr; dm11.50-13.50; n) A large, modern prop-
erty thats one of the SYHAs best, although the
location set far back from the river on the other
side of the town centre is not ideal.
Inverness Tourist Hostel (%241962; 24 Rose St; dm
13-14; i) The towns newest backpacker op-
tion is located right at the bus station, with a
swanky fitted kitchen, black leather couches
and a helpful band of staff.
Eastgate Backpackers Hostel (%718756; www.east
gatehostel.com; 38 Eastgate; dm 10-16) A well-situated,
lively hostel with power showers, metal bunks
and mixed and single-sex dorms.
Bluebell House (%238201; www.bluebell-house.co.uk;
31 Kenneth St) The three good-value rooms at this
delightful place, set just back from the north-
ern side of Loch Ness, have been decorated
with care by the charming landlady who has
an eye for interiors and antiques.
EATING & DRINKING
Castle Restaurant (%230925; 41-43 Castle St; mains 4-7;
h8am-8.30pmMon-Sat) A backpacker favourite, this
cheap and cheery caf serves up heaping plates
of simple comfort food that provides enough
fuel for a giant hike around the region.
Hootannany Cilidh CafBar (%233651; 67 Church
St; hnoon-midnight) This excellent, sociable and
folk-musicfriendly pub easily wins prize for
best boozer in town. A host of Scottish beer
specials are on offer, and theres rip-roaring
traditional music on the ground floor every
night and a host of rock and comedy events
upstairs almost as regularly. Shows are free
throughout the week and theres a 2 charge,
covering both floors, on Friday and Saturday.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Ten miles east of town Inverness airport (code
INV; %01667-464000) receives flights from Edin-
burgh, Glasgow, London, Orkney and Shet-
land, among others.
National Express coach services arrive from
London (40, 13 hours, four daily), while
Citylink buses arrive from Edinburgh (16.70,
four hours, hourly), Fort William (8.80, two
hours, six daily), Glasgow (15.50, four hours,
hourly) and other Scottish destinations.
There are several daily trains from London
(122, eight to 10 hours), including the over-
night Caledonian Sleeper, along with services
from Glasgow (34.90, 3 hours) and Edin-
burgh (34.90, 3 hours). The picturesque
Kyle of Lochalsh Line (www.scotrail.co.uk) delivers
passengers from the bridge across to the Isle
of Skye (15.90, 2 hours, two to four daily),
while the line from Thurso (14, 3 hours,
two to three daily) connects with the ferry
from Orkney.
Highland Country (%710555; www.rapsons.com) op-
erates local buses, with destination information
and advice available at the TIC. A Rover ticket
costs 6 for unlimited one-day travel.
Orkney Islands
%01856 / pop 19,950
Just 6 miles off the north coast of Scotland,
this magical group of islands is known for
its dramatic coastal scenery (which ranges
from soaring cliffs to white sandy beaches),
abundant marine bird life and a plethora of
mysterious prehistoric finds.
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 214 215
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Sixteen of the 70 Orkney Islands are in-
habited, but Kirkwall is the main town and
Stromness is the major port. Theyre both
on Mainland, the largest island. Contact the
Kirkwall TIC (%872856; www.visitorkney.com; 6 Broad St;
hMon-Sat 9am-6pm) for more information.
Stenness, a village a short bus ride from
Kirkwall or Stromness, is the most accessible
spot for exploring prehistoric Orkney. The
Standing Stones of Stenness, Barnhouse Neolithic
Village and Skara Brae, a 5000-year-old vil-
lage uncovered 150 years ago, are all close
by. Particularly recommended is Maes Howe
(%761606; adult/child 3/1; h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep,
9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-4.30pm Sun Oct-Mar), a 5000-
year-old earth-mound tomb thats an impres-
sive engineering feat by any standards and an
atmospheric place.
Theres a good selection of low-priced
B&Bs in the area especially on Mainland
and numerous hostels dot the region. In
Stromness, Browns Hostel (%850661; 45 Victoria
St; dm 11) is popular and close to the ferry.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Flights run by Loganair (%0845 773 3377) arrive
daily in Kirkwall from Aberdeen (from 147,
one hour), Glasgow (from 184, 1 hours)
and other Scottish cities, while British Airways
provides affiliated connections to London,
Manchester and the rest of the UK.
Services operated by Northlink Ferries (%0845
600 0449; www.northlinkferries.co.uk) run from Aber-
deen, Scrabster and the Shetlands, while John
oGroats Ferries (%01955-611353; www.jogferry.co.uk)
also operates a passenger-only run from the
mainland.
Shetland Islands
%01595 / pop 21,998
Sixty miles north of Orkney, the Shetland
Islands remained under Norse rule until 1469,
when they were given to Scotland as part of
a Danish princess dowry. For information,
visit the Lerwick TIC (%693434; www.shetland-tourism
.co.uk; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & 10am-1pm Sun
Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct).
Much bleaker than Orkney, Shetland is
famous for its varied bird life, rugged coastline
and 4000-year-old archaeological heritage. Its
worth taking a boat (%01950-431367; www.mousa
boattrips.co.uk) to the astounding and mysterious
prehistoric engineering marvel of Mousa Broch,
an amazingly preserved lookout tower on a
tiny island south of Lerwick.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Small ferries connect a handful of the smaller
islands. Contact the TIC for information on
B&Bs and camping barns, or stay at Lerwick
Youth Hostel (%692114; King Harald St; dm 11; hmid-
AprSep), which has a good caf attached.
NorthLink Ferries (%01856-851144) runs services
from Aberdeen and Kirkwall to Lerwick.
North & West Coast
The coast from Dounreay west around to
Ullapool is nothing short of spectacular. Every-
thing is on a massive scale: vast emptiness,
enormous lochs and snow-capped mountains.
Unreliable weather and limited public trans-
port are the only drawbacks.
From the tiny town of Durness you can make
forays out to the savagely beautiful Cape Wrath,
play extreme golf (at the most northerly course
in Britain) or explore mile after mile of empty
beach. The Durness TIC (%01971-511259) can help
with accommodation and sightseeing.
Ullapool is the jumping-off point for the
Isle of Lewis; contact the Ullapool TIC (%01854-
612135; 6 Argyle St; hdaily Apr-Sep, Mon-Sat Oct, Mon-Fri
Nov-Mar) for information. The coastline keeps
getting better round to Gairloch, along Loch
Maree and down to the Kyle of Lochalsh and
Skye. From there, youre back in the land of
the tour bus; civilisation (and main roads) can
be a shock after all the empty space.
Kyle of Lochalsh (Kyle) is a small village
overlooking the lovely island of Skye across
narrow Loch Alsh. Theres a TIC (%01599-
534276; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Easter-Oct) beside the
seafront car park but the nearest hostels are
on Skye. Kyle can be reached by bus and train
from Inverness and also by direct Citylink
buses from Glasgow (22.40, 5 hours).
Isle of Skye
pop 8850
Skye is a large, rugged island, measuring 50
miles north to south and 25 miles east to west.
Its ringed by stunning coastline and dominated
by the magnificent Cuillin Hills. The remote
west coast is especially beautiful and is teaming
with wildlife; seals and otters are frequently
sighted. You can contact the PortreeTIC (%01478-
612137; Bayfield Rd) for more information.
The SYHA hostels most relevant to ferry
users are at Uig (%0870 004 1155; dm12; hApr-Sep)
for the north and the Outer Hebrides (Western
Isles), and Armadale (%08700041103; dm12; hApr-
Sep) for Mallaig. The best independent hostel is
the welcoming Skye Backpackers (%01599-534510;
www.scotlands-top-hostels.com; Kyleakin; dm12-13), a short
walk from the Skye Bridge.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
A road bridge connects Skye to the mainland.
CalMac (%0147-844248; www.calmac.co.uk) operates a
ferry service from the mainland between Mal-
laig and Armadale (passenger/car 2.60/15.05,
30 minutes, four daily). Its wise to book,
especially during the summer.
Outer Hebrides (Western Isles)
Home to Harris Tweed, the windiest place in
Britain and prehistoric standing stones and
brochs, theres more to these bleak, remote
and treeless islands than you might think. The
gale-swept island climate is fierce, however,
and it rains more than 250 days of the year.
Check out www.witb.co.uk for resources.
Lewis is reached by ferry from Ullapool,
and its largest town, Stornoway, has a TIC
(%01851-703088; 26 Cromwell St) and several banks.
On Harris (which can be reached from Uig on
Skye), the TIC (%01859-502011; Pier Rd) is in Tar-
bert. North Uist sports a TIC (%01876-500321)
in Lochmaddy, while South Uist has a TIC
(%01878-700286) in Barra.
WALES (CYMRU)
You dont have to travel far from the urban
southeastern corner of Wales to hit its vast
rolling hills and sparsely populated coastline.
Youll get the most from a visit to Wales by
heading into its great outdoors, tramping
some of its glorious national park wilder-
nesses and exploring remote inland towns
and coastal villages. It is in these more re-
mote spots that youll get a real feel for the
distinctive Welsh history, language and mil-
lennia-long literary and musical traditions
that live on in some villages and towns.
SOUTH WALES
The villages that form a continuous chain
along the valleys have their own stark
beauty.
The Big Pit (%01495-790311; admission free),
near Blaenafon, closed as a coal mine in
1980. These days it gives you a chance to
experience life underground, and the guided
tours conducted by former miners are highly
recommended.
Cardiff (Caerdydd)
%029 / pop 315,000
Poor Cardiff. Theres absolutely nothing
wrong with it. Its a handsome town, with a
castle, a large park, pleasant riverside walks,
a few good museums and galleries, some in-
teresting civic architecture and a reasonably
lively cultural scene (helped by the presence
of a university), yet these parts add up to a
less than compelling whole and theres little
to keep you here for long.
Stock up on maps and information from
the TIC (%2022 7281; www.visitcardiff.info; The Hayes;
h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) for all of
Wales. Free internet access is available at Car-
diff Central Library (%2038 2116; Frederick St).
SIGHTS
The gargoyle-like animals guarding the outer
walls give some clue to the lavish Victorian
interior of Cardiff Castle (%2087 8100; www.cardiff
castle.com; Castle St; grounds only adult/student 3.50/2.95;
h9am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb). Nearby, the Na-
tional Museum & Gallery of Wales (%2039 7951; www
.museumwales.ac.uk; Cathays Park; admission free; h10am-
5pm Tue-Sun) offers a good crash course in Welsh
culture and has one of the finest collections of
impressionist art in Britain.
The port area at Cardiff Bay, about 2 miles
from the centre, is a good place to stop for
lunch. Here youll find the imposing, modern,
slate-sided performance and arts space of the
Wales Millennium Centre, and the glass and wood
marvel, with a roof like an upturned boat that
is the new Welsh Assembly Building. You can
find out all about it opposite at the Pierhead
(%2089 8477; admission free; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
10.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun).
SLEEPING & EATING
The citys beds can fill up when theres a big
rugby match in town. A good, central new-
comer is Riverbank (%2037 8866; www.sleepcheap
.co.uk; 53-59 Despenser St, Riverside; s/d 40/50; i), close
to the Millennium Stadium. The lively Cardiff
Backpacker (%2034 5577; www.cardiffback packer.com;
98 Neville St, Riverside; dm from 17.70; i) is a five- to
10-minute walk from most sights in the city
centre. The YHA Cardiff (%0870 770 5750; cardiff@yha
.org.uk; 2 Wedal Rd; dm 14.90) is in a hip student
area; take bus 28 or 29 to get there.
Cathedral Rd, which runs alongside the
Taff River, is lined with B&Bs occupying large,
solid houses. They include the Church Hotel
(%340881; 126 Cathedral Rd; s/d/f from 30/50/60).
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 216 217
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Finding good, fresh food thats not out
of a fryer or from familiar chain outlets is
surprisingly hard in the city centre. Your best
bet is to head to Cardiff Bay, which offers
lots of options including the pretty, white-
weatherboarded Norwegian Church (%2045 4899;
mains 3-5; h10am-6pm).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
National Express has buses to/from London
(19, 3 hours, seven daily) and Bristol (6.50,
50 minutes, every half-hour). Trains come
from all over the southeast and head west to
Swansea and as far as Haverfordwest.
Brecon Beacons National Park
The Brecon Beacons National Park covers
519 sq miles of high bare hills, surrounded on
the northern flanks by a number of attractive
market towns; Llandovery, Brecon, Crick-
howell, Talgarth and Hay-on-Wye make good
bases. The railhead is at Abergavenny (with a
Norman castle). A 55-mile cycleway/footpath,
the Taff Trail, connects Cardiff with Brecon.
The National Park Visitor Centre (%01874-623366;
www.visitbreconbeacons.com), near Libanus, is close
to many walking trails. Other information
offices are in Brecon (%01874-622485) and Llando-
very (%01550-720693; Kings Rd; h10am-1pm&1.45-4pm
Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun). All make B&B bookings.
Brecon is an attractive, historic market town
with a cathedral dating from the 13th century.
A market is held here on Tuesday and Friday,
and a highly acclaimed jazz festival in August.
The TIC (%622485; brectic@powys.gov.uk; h9am-5pm)
can help with further information and offers a
useful miniguide to the national park.
The YHA Brecon (%0870 770 5718; brecon@yha.org
.uk; Groesffordd; dm 13.95) is popular with trekkers
and cyclists. The enchanting and central B&B
Cantre Selyf (%622904; www.cantreselyf.co.uk; Lion St;
s 48, d 60-72; n) occupies a spacious Georgian
townhouse, and has dcor that harks back
to the 17th century, scrubbed floors and a
lovely garden. The walker-friendly Bridge Caf
(%622024; www.bridgecaf.co.uk; 7 Bridge St; mains 4-8;
h11am-6pm Wed-Sat) offers delicious, fresh, crea-
tive homemade food and also has a couple of
appealing, comfortable rooms (40 to 50).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Brecon has no train station, but there are regular
bus links. Stagecoach Red & White (%01685-385539)
has regular buses to Swansea and Abergavenny,
and to Hereford via Hay-on-Wye.
SOUTHWEST WALES
The coastline northeast of St Davids to Car-
digan is particularly beautiful and, as it is pro-
tected by national park, it remains delightfully
unspoilt. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path begins
at Amroth, north of Tenby, on the western
side of Carmarthen Bay and continues to St
Dogmaels to the west of Cardigan.
Carmarthen Bay is often referred to as Dylan
Thomas Country. The moving Dylans Boathouse
(%01994-427420; adult/concession 3/2; h10am-5.30pm
May-Oct, 10.30am-3.30pmNov-Apr) at Laugharne, where
he wrote Under Milk Wood, has been preserved
as he left it. Llansteffan has a beautiful Norman
castle overlooking sandy beaches. The west-
facing beaches have good surf.
From Pembroke Dock Irish Ferries (%08705-
171717) leave for Rosslare in Ireland; ferries
connect with buses from Cardiff and destina-
tions east. Stena Line (%08705-707070) has ferries
to Rosslare from Fishguard; these connect
with buses and trains.
Pembrokeshire National Park (www.pcnpa.org.uk)
protects a narrow band of magnificent coast-
line. The free paper, Coast to Coast, has detailed
local information.
The linchpin for the southwest is beauti-
ful St Davids, one of Europes smallest cities,
referred to as such because of its cathedral.
Theres a web of interesting streets and, con-
cealed in the Vale of Roses, beautiful St Davids
Cathedral (%01437-720517; www.stdavidscathedral.org
.uk; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, shorter hours in winter), an
imposing structure thats spectacularly well
preserved with a striking wood ceiling. Con-
tact the TIC (%01437-720392; www.stdavids.co.uk; High
St; 9.30am-5.30pm) for more information.
There are several handy youth hostels: near
St Davids (%0870 770 6042); at Trefin (%0870 770
6074), 11 miles from St Davids; and the superb
Pwll Deri (%0870 770 6004), on the cliffs 8 miles
from Trefin and 4.5 miles from Fishguard.
Fishguard is on a beautiful bay. The train sta-
tion and harbour (for ferries to Rosslare) are at
Goodwick, a 20-minute walk away. Theres a
TIC (%873484; www.fishguardonline.com; h9.30am-5pm
Mon, Thu & Fri, 9.30am-1pm Tue & Sat), but the Hamilton
Guest House & Backpackers Lodge (%01348-874797;
www.fishguard-backpackers.com; 21 Hamilton St; dm/d 12/30)
is even more helpful, and has a sauna.
Getting There & Away
Regular Richards Bros (%01239-613756) buses run
between St Davids and Fishguard (45 minutes,
every two hours Monday to Saturday). The
Manorbier
Freshwater
West
Cardiff
Airport
Swansea
Airport
Tintern
Abbey
Horseshoe
Pass
Mt Snowdon
(1085m)
Porthcawl
Clevedon
Penarth
Blaenau
Ffestiniog
Newtown
Bedwas
Church
Stretton
Ffestiniog
Pembroke
Pontypool
St Mellons
Bridgend
Abergavenny
Neath
Milford
Haven
Llangollen
Conwy
Amlwch
Beaumaris
Llandrindod
Wells
Abergele
Crewe
Ross-on-Wye
Welshpool
Corwen
Cardigan
Wells
Clydach
Ludlow
Glastonbury
Brymbo
Fishguard
Abersychan
Oswestry
Brecon
Dolgellau
Bridgwater
Pontarddulais
Talgarth
Tredegar
Caerphilly
Chorley
Tenby
Cwmbran
Aberdare
Ebbw
Vale
Ilfracombe
The
Mumbles
Weston-
super-
Mare
Llanidloes
Burnham
Prestatyn Ellesmere
Port
Porthmadog
Monmouth
Leominster
Minehead
Haverfordwest
Chepstow
Pwllheli
Llandaff
Llandudno
Bolton
Preston
Bury
Colwyn
Bay
Blackburn
Wrexham
Barry
Wigan
Birkenhead
Shrewsbury
Hereford
Telford
Port Talbot
Merthyr
Tydfil
St Helens
Rhyl
Caernarfon
Aberystwyth
Carmarthen
Bangor
Holyhead
Warrington
Chester
Llanelli
Southport
Liverpool
Newport
Swansea
Abersoch
Pontypridd
Formby
Wallasey
Holywell
Flint
Denbigh
Ruthin
Rhuddlan
Llanrwst
Betws-
y-Coed
Capel
Curig
Pen-y-
Pass
Llanberis
Menai
Bridge
Llangefni
Waunfawr
Criccieth
Harlech
Barmouth
Machynlleth
Bishop's
Castle
Knighton
Kington
Hay-on-
Wye
Llanfyllin
Tywyn
Borth
Devil's
Bridge
Tregaron
Lampeter
Aberaeron
New Quay
Newcastle
Emlyn
Pwll Deri
Trefin
St David's
Newgale
Amroth
Narbeth Laugharne
Kidwelly
Rhossili
Llandeilo
Ammanford
Builth
Wells
Llanwrtyd
Wells
Llandovery
Libanus
Capel-
y-Ffin
Crickhowell
Usk
Blaenafon
Llanstephan
Llansteffan
St Dogmaels
CARDIFF
Rheidol
Falls
Centre for
Alternative
Technology
Carew
Castle
National Botanic
Gardens of Wales
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Cambrian
Mountains
Preseli
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Gower
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Llyn
Peninsula
Black
Mountains
Great
Orme
Black
Mountains
Holyhead
Bay
Dee
Estuary Red
Wharf
Bay
Tremadog
Bay
Carmarthen
Bay
Oxwich
Bay
Bridgwater
Bay
Liverpool
Bay
Mouth
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Caernarfon
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Cardigan
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B r i s t o l C h a n n e l
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Isle of
Anglesey
Holy
Island
Caldey
Island
PEMBROKESHIRE
CARMARTHENSHIRE
CEREDIGION
POWYS
MONMOUTH-
SHIRE
WREXHAM
DENBIGHSHIRE
FLINTSHIRE
CONWY
ANGLESEY
GWYNEDD
SWANSEA
NEATH &
PORT TALBOT
CAERPHILLY
VALE OF
GLAMORGAN
RHONDDA
CYNON
TAFF
BLAENAU
GWENT
Brecon Beacons
National Park
Pembrokeshire
Coast National Park
Snowdonia
National Park
To Dublin &
Dun Laoghaire
(Ireland)
To Rosslare
(Ireland)
To Rosslare
(Ireland)
To Cork
(Ireland)
53N
52N
4W 5W
4W
5W
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M4
M61
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A41
A5
A55
A5
A49
A5
A44
A49
A49
A40
A40
A40
A40
A470
A487
A494
A458
A487
A470
A483
A487
A483
A470
A438
A470
A465
A483
WALES
0 40 km
0 20 miles
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com 218 219
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closest train station is Haverfordwest, from
where bus 411 runs hourly into St Davids.
MID WALES
In the early 1970s a group of folk interested in
an alternative and above all sustainable way
of living set up home in a Welsh quarry. Still
an endearingly idealistic bunch, they com-
municate a serious and practical message
through their Centre for Alternative Technology
(CAT; %01654-702400; www.cat.org.uk; concession/child
summer 8/4, winter 6/4; h10am-5.30pm, 10am-4pm
in winter). Its home to seven interactive acres
of experimentation and information about
renewable energy and sustainable living, and
is an inspiring place from which you can take
ideas to apply in your own life.
The centre is reachable by car, 3 miles north
of Machynlleth on the A487 to Dolgellau, or
by bus from the Machynlleth train station,
accessible from Shrewsbury or Birmingham.
For more details see the CAT website.
NORTH WALES
North Wales is dominated by the Snowdonia
Mountains, which loom over the beautiful
coastline. The Red Rover day ticket (16.90)
covers most of the region.
Llandudno
%01492 / pop 22,000
Developed as a Victorian holiday town, Llan-
dudno has retained much of its 19th-century
architecture and antiquated atmosphere, and
seethes with visitors in summer. Theres a
wonderful pier and promenade, and donkeys
on the beach.
Llandudno sits on its own peninsula be-
tween two sweeping beaches, and is domi-
nated by the spectacular limestone headland,
the Great Orme, with the mountains of Snow-
donia as a backdrop. The Great Orme, with its
tramway (adult/child 3.95/2.80), superb views and
Bronze Age mine, is fascinating.
About 3 miles south of Llandudno is
Conwy Castle (%592358; adult/concession 4.50/4;
h9.30am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-4pm Oct-May), one of
the grandest of Edward Is castles and a medi-
eval masterpiece.
There are hundreds of guesthouses, but it
can be difficult to find somewhere in the peak
July/August season. Contact the TIC (%876413;
www.llandudno-tourism.co.uk; 1/2 Chapel St) for more
information.
Snowdonia National Park
The Snowdonia Mountains offer easily the
most spectacular scenery in Wales. The most
popular region is in the north around Mt
Snowdon, at 1085m the highest peak in Brit-
ain south of the Scottish Highlands. Hikers
must be prepared to deal with hostile condi-
tions at any time of the year. Check www
.visitsnowdonia.info or www.snowdonia-npa
.gov.uk for more information.
There are several National Park Information
Centres, including Betws-y-Coed (%01690-710426;
ticbetws@hotmail.com; h9.30am-5.30pm), Blaenau
Ffestiniog (%01766-830360; h9.30am-12.30pm &
1.30-5.30pm) and Harlech (%01766-780658; h9.30am-
12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm). They all have a wealth of
information, and all make B&B bookings.
The beautiful, if crowded, hamlet of Betws-
y-Coed is a lovely base from which to explore
Snowdonia. The nearest hostel to Betws-y-
Coed is Capel Curig (%0870 770 5746; capelcurig@yha
.org.uk; dm adult/child 16/12.50), 5 miles west. B&Bs
and hotels are plentiful, including the welcom-
ing Royal Oak Hotel (%710219; www.royaloakhotel.net;
r per person 40-60; p), a former coaching inn
located right in the heart of Betws-y-Coed.
In Llanberis, you can take the Snowdon Moun-
tain Railway (%0870 458 0033; www.snowdonrailway
.co.uk; adult/child 21/14) for the ride to the top and
back. The Llanberis TIC (%870765; www.llanberis.org;
41a High St; h9am-5pm Fri-Wed) is helpful.
The best hostel in the Llanberis area is the
Pen-y-Pass Youth Hostel (%08707705990; penypass@yha
.org.uk; Nantgwynant, Caernarfon; dmadult/child 13.95/9.95),
6 miles up the valley in a spectacular site at
the start of one of the paths up Snowdon. The
Heights (%871179; www.heightshotel.co.uk; 74 High St;
dm/d 14/50, f 60-100) is a hotel/hostel with a pub/
restaurant where climbers hang out in the even-
ings. Petes Eats (%870358; mains 2-5) is a warm caf
opposite the Llanberis TIC where hikers swap
information over large portions of hearty food,
like chip butties, and big mugs of tea.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Snowdon Sherpa buses run along the major
mountain routes within the national park,
with connections to Llandudno from Betws-
y-Coed, to Caernarfon from Waunfawr, and
to Caernarfon/Bangor from Llanberis.
Llangollen
%01978 / pop 2600
Famous for its International Musical Eisteddfod
(%862001; www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk), Llangol-
len is just 8 miles from England. This six-day
music, song and dance festival, held in July,
attracts folk groups from around the world.
The town makes an excellent base for outdoor
activities walks to ruined ValleCrucis Abbey and
the Horseshoe Pass, horse-drawn canal-boat
trips and canoeing on the Dee River.
The intimate Henllys Guest House (%710534;
www.jhaddy.freeserve.co.uk; Old Church Rd; per person from
15) is a converted Victorian magistrates
court set next to the Conwy River. The Llan-
gollen Youth Hostel & Activity Centre (%0870 770
5932; llangollen@yha.org.uk; Tyndwr Rd; under/over 18yr
8.95/11.95) is 1.5 miles from the centre.
BRITAIN DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Reflecting the wide array of options available
in Britain, accommodation in this chapter has
been listed in budget order, with the lowest-
priced first. Budget listings are usually hostels
or backpacker joints; midrange options are
often B&Bs or small guesthouses; and top-end
spots are typically swish hotels. Remember
that local TICs will find and book accom-
modation for you ahead of your arrival if you
tell them your budget and what youre looking
for. This service is sometimes free but usually
costs around 3.
Free camping is rarely possible in Britain,
except in remote areas, but theres a surfeit of
pay-per-pitch sites across the country. Rates
can range from 2 to 15 per night, depending
on location and season, and facilities can run
from shared cold-water taps to hot showers
and laundry facilities. The best-selling AA Car-
avan and Camping Britain & Ireland (9.99)
guide is widely available and comprehensive.
Also visit UK Campsite (www.ukcampsite.co.uk) for
thousands of listings and user reviews.
The separate Youth Hostel Associations for
England & Wales (%0870 770 8868; www.yha.org.uk)
and Scotland (%0870 155 3255; www.syha.org.uk) offer
similar dorm bed rates from 9 to 20 per
night. Their facilities vary from institution-
alised basic to IKEA-chic modern, with some
larger hostels now offering private rooms and
free breakfasts to compete with independent
operators. Prices in this chapter are for adults
but per-night discounts are available to those
aged under 18 (usually about 25%) and Hos-
telling International (HI) members (usually 1
to 2). Not all hostels are open year-round, so
book or call ahead before you arrive.
Theres a growing array of independent
hostels and backpackers across Britain and
they vary widely in quality, facilities and price
(typically from 10 to 25). Some are quiet and
cosy, while others are for serious party travel-
lers. The online Independent Hostel Guide (www
.independenthostelguide.co.uk) is a listing resource
for tracking down some of these hostels. For
Scotland-only, check Scottish Independent Hostels
(www.hostel-scotland.co.uk) for online listings.
Many universities offer student accom-
modation to visitors during Christmas, Easter
and summer holidays, usually in basic single
study rooms. Rates typically range from 15
to 35 per person. For information, contact
Venuemasters (%0114-249 3090; www.venuemasters
.com), which represents 100 British universities
and offers online bookings.
A great British institution and often the
best-value accommodation in town, B&Bs and
guesthouses can range from 15 per person
for a bedroom in a family home to more than
50 for a warm and fuzzy stay in a characterful
heritage house. The common link is the heap-
ing cooked breakfast thats intended to keep
you fuelled until well into the afternoon. For
comprehensive listings, pick up the annual
AA Bed & Breakfast Guide (12.99).
Hotels can run from poky pub rooms (20
to 50) to a night of luxury in a sleek boutique
property (upwards of 75). In between is a
growing roster of competitive midrange chains,
including Ibis (www.ibishotel.com), Premier Travel Inn
(www.premiertravelinn.com), Travelodge (www.travelodge
.co.uk) and Holiday Inn Express (www.hiexpress.co.uk).
Note that most B&Bs, guesthouses and
hotels charge per room but some charge per
person make sure you know what youre
paying before you unpack your bag. Room
SPLURGE
Big Sleep Hotel (%2063 6363; www.the
bigsleephotel.com; Bute Tce; r from 45) The top
spot in town for value and interior cool.
The high-rise Big Sleep Hotel offers really
great value, given the amazingly stylish
modern retro rooms occupying a former
office block. The penthouses have com-
manding views over town and theres a
small bar downstairs. Its also right in the
city centre, handy for dozens of bars and
several clubs.
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rates always include VAT (Value-Added Tax)
at the rate of 17.5%.
ACTIVITIES
Britain is a great destination for outdoor en-
thusiasts, from daredevil rock climbers to
beach bum surfer dudes and leisurely day
hikers. There are clubs and associations across
the land, and useful brochures and maps avail-
able from Visit Britain (www.visitbritain.com). Its
website has some good recommendations and
links under its Get Active section.
Cycling
Compact Britain is an excellent destination to
explore by bike. Not all cities are cycle-friendly
(Oxford, Bristol and Bath are among the best)
but there are plenty of designated routes
through some of the nations best country-
side. Popular routes and regions include the
Yorkshire Dales Cycleway, Derbyshires Peak
District and the Scottish Borders.
The 10,000-mile National Cycle Network
(%0845 113 0065; www.nationalcyclenetwork.org.uk)
crisscrosses Britain with one-day and multiday
rides and is actively expanding. Contact the
network for excellent maps and other cycling
resources. The Cyclists Touring Club (%0870 873
0060; www.ctc.org.uk) is the leading national organi-
sation for biking enthusiasts, and can help with
route information and general inquiries about
cycling in Britain.
Hiring bikes is easy in the UK, with prices
typically ranging from 6 for a half-day to 60
for a week book ahead for summer rentals.
Hiking
Britains cornucopia of picturesque terrains
makes for great hiking country. Day hikes are
a popular and accessible way to escape from
the crowded cities and there are hundreds of
longer routes waiting for more adventurous
travellers. Popular hiking trails include the
191-mile Coast to Coast Walk (www.coast2coast.co.uk)
across three northern England national parks;
the 100-mile Cotswold Way (www.cotswold-way
.co.uk) between Bath and Chipping Campden;
and the 84-mile Dales Way (www.thedalesway.co.uk)
through Yorkshires charming countryside.
Other routes crisscross Exmoor National Park (see
p183 ) and Dartmoor National Park (see p182 ),
Pembrokeshire National Park ( p219 ) in Wales and
the highlands and islands of Scotland.
The Ramblers Association (%020-7339 8500; www
.ramblers.org.uk) is a voluntary organisation with
a wealth of experience on hiking and walking
across Britain. It produces dozens of maps,
guides and accommodation listings for local
and visiting hoofers. For additional informa-
tion and resources (some for free download),
check out National Trails (www.nationaltrails.co.uk).
Water Sports
Surrounded by water and dripping with lakes,
lochs and canals, Britain offers a brimming
bucket full of coastal and inland water-based
activities.
The Devon and Cornwall region is Eng-
lands surfing Mecca, with rideable swells at
more than 100 closely linked beaches, includ-
ing Newquays Fistral Beach ( p184 ). Scotland
is opening up to its surfing potential, with the
north coast proving popular among adventur-
ous board fans. Southwest Wales also has some
great waves around Newgale and Whitesands.
Equipment hire centres are widespread. The
British Surfing Association (%0870 011 4240; www
.britsurf.org) should be your first stop for informa-
tion and resources. Windsurfers can also check
out Brit-based options via the Royal Yachting
Association (%0845 345 0400; www.rya.org.uk).
With hundreds of shipwrecks strewn
around its coast, diving is also popular. Some
of the best wetsuit haunts are along the Eng-
lish south coast, where hapless medieval and
WWII vessels jostle for space. The divable
area around St Abbs, Scotlands first marine
nature reserve, is also recommended. The Brit-
ish Sub-Aqua Club (%0151-350 6200; www.bsac.com)
offers courses and information for dive fans.
BUSINESS HOURS
Usual business hours in Britain:
Banks h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; larger branches also
open on Saturday morning
Offices h9am-5pm Mon-Fri
Post offices h9am-5pm Mon-Fri & Sat until noon
Pubs h11am to 11pm Mon-Saturday & noon-10.30pm
Sun; many particularly in cities stay open later,
especially on weekends
Restaurants hlunch 11am-3pm, dinner 6pm-10pm;
specific hours can vary widely
Shops h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; larger shops may open
10am-4pm Sun, & many also stay open late one night per
week, usually Thursday or Friday.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Embassies & Consulates in Britain
Australia (Map pp162-3 ; %020-7379 4334; www.aus
tralia.org.uk; Australia House, The Strand, London WC2B 4LA)
Canada (Map pp162-3 ; %020-7258 6600; Macdonald
House, 1 Grosvenor Sq, London W1K 4AB)
France (Map pp170-1 ; %020-7073 1200; www.amba
france-uk.org; 58 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7JT)
Germany (%020-7824 1300; www.german-embassy
.org.uk; 23 Belgrave Sq, London SW1 8PZ)
Ireland (Map pp162-3 %020-7235 2171; 17 Grosvenor
Pl, London SW1X 7HR)
Japan (Map pp162-3 ; %020-7465 6500; www.uk.emb
-japan.go.jp; 101-104 Piccadilly, London W1J 7JT)
Netherlands (Ma pp170-1 ; %020-7590 3200; www
.netherlands-embassy.org.uk; 38 Hyde Park Gate, London
SW7 5DP)
New Zealand (Map pp162-3 ; %020-7930 8422; www
.nzembassy.com; 80 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4TQ)
USA (%020-7499 9000; www.usembassy.org.uk; 24
Grosvenor Sq, London W1A 1AE)
British Embassies & Consulates Abroad
For more British embassies, visit the website of
the Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk).
Australia (%02-6270 6666; www.britaus.net; Com-
monwealth Ave, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600)
Canada (%613-237 1530; www.britainincanada.org; 80
Elgin St, Ottawa, ON K1P 5K7)
France (%01 44 51 31 00; www.amb-grandebretagne
.fr; 35 rue du Faubourg St Honor, 75383 Paris Cedex 08)
Germany (%030-204570; www.britischebotschaft.de;
Wilhelmstrasse 70, 10117 Berlin)
Ireland (%01-205 3700; www.britishembassy.ie; 29
Merrion Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4)
Japan (%03-5211 1100; www.uknow.or.jp; 1 Ichiban-
cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-8381)
Netherlands (%070-427 04 27; www.britain.nl; Lange
Voorhout 10, 2514 ED, The Hague)
New Zealand (%04-924 2888; www.britain.org.nz; 44
Hill St, Wellington 1)
USA (%202-588 6500; www.britainusa.com; 3100 Mas-
sachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC 20008)
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
There are countless diverse special events
around Britain throughout the year, many
based on traditional customs initiated cen-
turies ago.
January
Hogmanay/New Year (www.edinburghshogmanay)
Huge, raucous New Years Eve party in Princes St,
Edinburgh, echoed by smaller versions throughout
the UK.
April
Grand National (www.aintree.co.uk) Britains top annual
horse race is held at Aintree, Liverpool, in early April.
May
FA Cup Final (www.thefa.com) The nail-biting conclusion
to Englands annual knock-out football club competition
takes place at Londons Wembley Stadium in mid-May.
June
Trooping the Colour (www.royal.gov.uk) The Queens
other birthday is celebrated with pomp, pageantry and
parades at Londons Horse Guards Pde in mid-June.
Glastonbury Festival (www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk)
Giant open-air music extravaganza held in Somerset in
late June.
July
Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod
(www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk) The 60-year-old
celebration of international folk music and dance takes
place at Llangollen in Wales in early July.
T in the Park (www.tinthepark.com) Scotlands leading
open-air music festival is held in Glasgow in mid-July.
Farnborough International Air Show (www
.farnborough.com) The worlds largest airplane display
takes place in Surrey in mid-July.
August
Edinburgh Fringe Festival (www.edfringe.com) The
three-week comedy and avant-garde performance fest
kicks off in early August.
Brecon Jazz Festival (www.breconjazz.co.uk) Indoor
and outdoor jazz concerts are held in the Welsh country-
side around Brecon in mid-August.
Reading Festival (www.readingfestival.com) Popular
annual live music (and camping) fest in late August.
September
Braemar Gathering (www.braemergathering.org)
Haggis scoffing and caber-tossing in the Scottish Highlands
around Braemar, Deeside, attended by a kilted Royal Fam-
ily in early September.
November
Guy Fawkes Night Bonfires and fireworks on 5 Novem-
ber nationwide recall a failed antigovernment plot from
the 1600s.
HOLIDAYS
Public Holidays
Called bank holidays in Britain, these affect
most businesses, although larger shops in-
creasingly remain open.
New Years Day 1 January
New Years Holiday 2 January (Scotland only)
Good Friday March/April, Friday before Easter
Easter Monday March/April (except Scotland)
May Day First Monday in May
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Spring Bank Holiday Last Monday in May
Summer Bank Holiday First Monday in August
(Scotland only)
Summer Bank Holiday Last Monday in August (England
and Wales only)
Christmas Day 25 December
Boxing Day 26 December
INTERNET RESOURCES
The website of Visit Britain (www.visitbritain.com)
is stuffed with resources and its ever-eager to
send brochures and information on request.
England (www.enjoyengland.com), Scotland (www.visit
scotland.com) and Wales (www.visitwales.com) also
have dedicated tourism agencies.
MONEY
Currency
Britains currency is the pound sterling (),
split among a variety of coins and banknotes
each bearing the Queens image. Scotland
and Northern Ireland also issue banknotes,
which are legal tender across the UK: if you
have any trouble using them in England,
exchange them at any bank for free. The
euro () is accepted at some major tourist
attractions, larger hotels and at increasing
numbers of businesses in London and the
Southeast.
Exchange
Be careful with bureaux de change: they may
advertise good exchange rates but they some-
times levy outrageous fees and commissions.
Always ask what the extras are before making
a transaction. Banks are a safe money-
changing option and some larger post offices
will also exchange your foreign dosh. Travel-
lers cheques are inconvenient in Britain they
are rarely accepted at businesses but can be
exchanged for cash at banks or exchanges.
ATMs
Its not hard to find an ATM usually called
cashpoints in Britain, where theyre often
located outside banks, building societies and
large supermarkets. They accept a wide vari-
ety of cards, including Visa, MasterCard and
American Express (Amex). Some cashpoints,
particularly those in unusual locations like
pubs, charge extra fees for withdrawals.
POST
Within the UK, 1st-class mail is quicker and
more expensive (0.32 per letter) than 2nd-
class mail (0.23). Postcards sent overseas cost
0.44 (Europe) and 0.50 (outside Europe).
Stamp-vending machines are located outside
some post offices, and larger newsagents and
supermarkets sell stamps in books of four or
10. Single stamps are often available at larger
attractions and some TICs.
TELEPHONE
Phone Codes
For international direct calls, dial %00 fol-
lowed by the country code, area code (drop
the first zero if there is one) and local number.
Dial %155 for the international operator.
Mobile phone numbers usually begin with
%07. For calls within Britain, dial %100 for
operator assistance and %118118 for direc-
tory inquiries. For international directories
dial %118 661. Useful codes to know:
%0800 free call
%0845 local-rate call
%0870 national-rate call
%0871 local-rate call
%0891 premium-rate call
%0906 premium-rate call
Call boxes, mostly operated by British Tel-
ecom (BT), are a common sight on UK streets.
Most take coins, credit cards, phonecards or
a combination of all three. Coin phones do
not give change and they charge a minimum
of 0.20. Local calls are charged by time while
national calls are by time and distance: its
cheaper to call before 8am or after 6pm Mon-
day to Friday or at any time on weekends.
Many hotels charge high fees for in-room
phone usage.
VISAS
You dont need a visitor visa if you are a citi-
zen of EU countries, Australia, Canada, New
Zealand, South Africa or the USA. Tourists
are generally permitted to stay for up to six
months, but are prohibited from working. All
other nationalities should apply for a visitor
visa through their nearest British diplomatic
mission. These currently cost around 50. For
more information, visit www.ukvisas.gov.uk.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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