Varanasi

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For district, see Varanasi district. For other uses, see Banaras (disambiguation).

Varanasi
Banaras, Kashi

Metropolitan City

Clockwise from top: Ahilya Ghat, New Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, Tibetan Temple in Sarnath, Banaras Hindu University, Kashi Vishwanath Temple

Nickname(s): The Spiritual capital of India The Cultural Capital of India

Varanasi

Coordinates:

25.282N 82.9563ECoordinates:
25.282N 82.9563E

Country State District Government Mayor Area Metropolitan City Elevation Population (2012) Metropolitan City Rank Density Metro[1]

India Uttar Pradesh Varanasi

Ram Gopal Mohle (BJP) 1,535 km2 (593 sq mi) 80.71 m (264.80 ft)

1,601,815 30th 2,399/km2(6,210/sq mi) 1,201,815

[2]

Languages Official Time zone PIN Telephone code Vehicle registration Sex ratio Hindi IST (UTC+5:30) 221 001 to** (** area code) 0542 UP 65 0.926 (2011) /

Literacy Website

77.05 (2011)% www.nnvns.org

listen)),

Varanasi (Hindustani pronunciation: [arasi] (

[3]

also known orKashi (K [kai] (

listen)),

as Benares, Banaras (Banras [bnars] (

listen))

is a city on the

banks of the Ganges (Ganga) in Uttar Pradesh, 320 kilometres (200 mi) southeast of the state capital, Lucknow. It is the holiest of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) in Hinduism and Jainism, and played an important role in the development of Buddhism. Some Hindus believe that death at Varanasi brings salvation.[4] It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Varanasi is also known as the favourite city of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva as it has been mentioned in the Rigveda that this city at older times was known as Kashi or "Shiv ki Nagri". [5] Many of its temples were plundered and destroyed by Mohammad Ghauri in the 12th century. The temples and religious institutions in the city now are dated to the 18th century.[6] The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi, and an essential part of all religious celebrations.[7]The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the Ganges. The city has been a cultural center of North India for several thousand years, and has a history that is older than most of the major world religions. The Benares Gharana form of Hindustani classical music was developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians live or have lived in Varanasi. Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi.[8] Varanasi is the spiritual capital of India. Scholarly books have been written in the city, including the Ramcharitmanas of Tulsidas. Today there is a temple of his namesake in the city, the Tulsi Manas Mandir. One of the largest residential universities of Asia theBanaras Hindu University is located here. Varanasi is often referred to as "the city of temples", "the holy city of India", "the religious capital of India", "the city of shiva", and "the city of learning".

Contents [hide]

1 Etymology 2 History 3 Geography and climate

o

3.1 Climate

4 Administration
o

4.1 Politics and law

o o

4.2 Healthcare 4.3 Public maintenance

5 Demographics 6 Economy 7 Main sights

o o o o o

7.1 Jantar Mantar 7.2 Ramnagar Fort 7.3 Ghats 7.4 Temples 7.5 Mosques

8 Culture 9 Religion
o o o

9.1 Hinduism 9.2 Islam 9.3 Others

10 Religious festivals 11 Education 12 Music 13 Sport 14 Transport 15 See also 16 References

o

16.1 Bibliography

17 External links

Etymology[edit]
The name Vrasi[9] possibly originates from the names of the two rivers: Varuna, still flowing in Varanasi, and Asi, a small stream near Assi Ghat. The old city does lie on the north shores of Ganges River bounded by its two tributaries Varuna and Asi.[10]Another speculation is that the city derives its name from the river Varuna, which was called Varanasi in olden times.[11] This is generally disregarded by historians. Through the ages, Varanasi has been known by many names including K or Kashi (used by pilgrims dating from Buddha's days), Kik (the shining one), Avimukta ("never forsaken" by Shiva), nandavana (the forest of bliss), and Rudravsa (the place where Rudra/iva resides).[12]

In the Rigveda, the city is referred to as K or Kashi, the luminous city as an eminent seat of learning.[13] The name K is also mentioned in the Skanda Purana. In one verse, Shiva says, "The three worlds form one city of mine, and K is my royal palace therein."[14] The name Kashi may be translated as "City of Light".[15]

History[edit]
According to legend, Varanasi was founded by the god Shiva.[16] The Pandavas, the heroes of the Hindu epic Mahabharata are also stated to have visited the city in search of Shiva to atone for their sins of fratricide and Brhmanahatya that they had committed during the climactic Kurukshetra war.[17] It is regarded as one of seven holy cities which can provide Moksha:
Ayodhy, 2 Mathur, 3 Gay, 4 Ka, 5 Kachi, 6 Avantik, 7 Dwrvat, 8 --these seven cities should be known as the givers of liberation. Garua Pura XVI 114
[18]

The earliest known archaeological evidence suggests that settlement around Varanasi in the Ganga valley (the seat of Aryan religion and philosophy) began in the 11th or 12th century BC,[19] placing it among the world's oldest continually inhabited cities.[20][21] These archaeological remains suggest that the Varanasi area was populated by Vedic people.[22] However, the Atharvaveda (the oldest known text referencing the city), which dates to approximately the same period, suggests that the area was populated by indigenous tribes.[22] It is possible that archaeological evidence of these previous inhabitants has yet to be discovered.[22] Varanasi was also home to Parshva, the 23rd Jain Tirthankara and the earliest Tirthankara accepted as a historical figure in the 8th century BC.[23][24] Varanasi grew as an important industrial centre, famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture.[21] During the time of Gautama Buddha (born circa 567 BC), Varanasi was the capital of the Kingdom of Kashi.[21] Buddha is believed to have founded Buddhism here around 528 BC when he gave his first sermon, "Turning the Wheel of Law", at nearby Sarnath.[25][26] The celebrated Chinese traveler Xuanzang, who visited the city around 635 AD, attested that the city was a centre of religious and artistic activities, and that it extended for about 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) along the western bank of the Ganges.[21][27] Hiuen Tsiang also visited Varanasi in the 7th century; he named it "Polonisse" and wrote that the city had some 30 temples with about 30 monks.[28] The city's religious importance continued to grow in the 8th century, when Adi Shankaraestablished the worship of Shiva as an official sect of Varanasi.[29]

Sant Kabir.

In ancient times, Varanasi was connected by a road starting from Taxila and ending at Pataliputra during the Mauryan Empire. In 1194, the city succumbed to Turkish Muslim rule under Qutb-ud-din Aibak, who ordered the destruction of some one thousand temples in the city.[30][31] The city went into decline over some three centuries of Muslim occupation,[27] although new temples were erected in the 13th century after the Afghan invasion.[29] Feroz Shah ordered further destruction of Hindu temples in the Varanasi area in 1376.[30] The Afghan ruler Sikander Lodi continued the suppression of Hinduism in the city and destroyed most of the remaining older temples in 1496.[30] Despite the Muslim rule, Varanasi remained the centre of activity for intellectuals and theologians during the Middle Ages, which further contributed to its reputation as a cultural centre of religion and education. Several major figures of the Bhakti movement were born in Varanasi, including Kabir who was born here in 1389 and hailed as "the most outstanding of the saint-poets of Bhakti cult (devotion) and mysticism of 15th-Century India";[32] and Ravidas, a 15thcentury socio-religious reformer, mystic, poet, traveler, and spiritual figure, who was born and lived in the city and employed in the tannery industry.[33] Similarly, numerous eminent scholars and preachers visited the city from across India and south Asia. Guru Nanak Dev visited Varanasi for Shivratri in 1507, a trip that played a large role in the founding of Sikhism.[34]

A Brahmin placing a garland on the holiest spot in the sacred city. A lithograph by James Prinsep, 1832.

Varanasi, 1883.

In the 16th century, Varanasi experienced a cultural revival under the Muslim Mughal emperor Akbar who invested in the city, and built two large temples dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.[27][30] The Raja of Poona established the Annapurnamandir and the 200 metres (660 ft) Akbari Bridge was also completed during this period.[35] The earliest tourists began arriving in the city during the 16th century.[36] In 1665, the French traveller Jean Baptiste Tavernier described the architectural beauty of the Vindu Madhava temple on the side of the Ganges. The road infrastructure was also improved during this period and extended from Kolkata to Peshawar by Emperor Sher Shah Suri; later during theBritish Raj it came to be known as the famous Grand Trunk Road. In 1656, emperor Aurangzeb ordered the destruction of many temples and the building of mosques, causing the city to experience a temporary setback.[27] However, after Aurangazeb's death, most of India was ruled by a confederacy of pro-Hindu kings. Much of modern Varanasi was built during this time by the Rajput and Maratha kings, especially during the 18th century, and most of the important buildings in the city today date to this period.[37] The kings continued to be important through much of the British rule (17751947 AD), including the Maharaja of Benares, or Kashi Naresh. The kingdom of Benares was given official status by the Mughals in 1737, and continued as a dynasty-governed area until Indian independence in 1947, during the reign of Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh. In the 18th century, Muhammad Shah ordered the construction of an observatory on the Ganges, attached to Man Mandir Ghat, designed to discover imperfections in the calendar in order to revise existing astronomical tables.[36] Tourism in the city began to flourish in the 18th century.[36] In 1791, under the rule of British Governor-General Warren Hastings, Jonathan Duncan founded a Sanskrit College in Varanasi. In 1867, the establishment of the Varanasi Municipal Board led to significant improvements in the city. In 1897, Mark Twain, the renowned Indophile, said of Varanasi, "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."[38] In 1910, the British made Varanasi a new Indian state, with Ramanagar as its headquarters but with no jurisdiction over the city of Varanasi itself. Kashi Naresh still resides in the Ramnagar Fort which is

situated to the east of Varanasi, across the Ganges.[39] Ramnagar Fort and its museum are the repository of the history of the kings of Varanasi. Since the 18th century, the fort has been the home of Kashi Naresh, deeply revered by the local people.[7] He is the religious head and some devout inhabitants consider him to be the incarnation of Shiva.[7] He is also the chief cultural patron and an essential part of all religious celebrations.[7] A massacre by British troops, of the Indian troops stationed here and of the population of the city, took place during the early stages of the Indian Rebellion of 1857.[40] Annie Besant worked in Varanasi to promote theosophy and founded the Central Hindu College which later became a foundation for the creation of Banaras Hindu University as a secular university in 1916. Her purpose in founding the Central Hindu College in Varanasi was that she "wanted to bring men of all religions together under the ideal of brotherhood in order to promote Indian cultural values and to remove illwill among different sections of the Indian population."[41] Varanasi was ceded to the Union of India on 15 October 1948. After the death of Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh in 2000, his son Anant Narayan Singh became the figurehead king, responsible for upholding the traditional duties of a Kashi Naresh. See also: v:The Varanasi Heritage Dossier/History and Development

Geography and climate[edit]

The Ganges at sunrise at Varanasi

Location in India

Varanasi is located in the middle Ganges valley of North India, in the Eastern part of the state of Uttar Pradesh, along the left crescent-shaped bank of the Ganges, averaging between 50 feet (15 m) and 70 feet (21 m) above the river.[42] It has the headquarters ofVaranasi district. By road, Varanasi is located 797 kilometres (495 mi) southeast of New Delhi, 320 kilometres (200 mi) southeast ofLucknow, 121 kilometres (75 mi) east of Allahabad, and 63 kilometres (39 mi) south of Jaunpur.[43] The "Varanasi Urban Agglomeration" an agglomeration of seven urban sub-units covers an area of 112.26 km 2 (approximately 43 mi).[44] The urban agglomeration is stretched between 82 56E 83 03E and 25 14N 25 23.5N.[44] Neighbourhoods of the city include Adampura,Kotwali, Jaitpura, Dhupchandi, Chaukaghat, Kail Garh, Guru Nanak Nagar, Chaitganj, Naipokhari, Sigra, Maulvibagh, Siddhagiribagh, Bulanala, Chowk, Bangali Tola, Luxa, Khanna, Gopal Vihar, Giri Nagar, Mahmoorganj, Maheshpur, Bhelpura, Shivala, Anandbagh, Nagwar, Dumraon, Gandhinagar,Bachchhaon, and Gautam Nagar, Lanka Manduadih.[43] Being located in the Indo-Gangetic Plains of North India, the land is very fertile because low level floods in the Ganges continually replenish the soil.[45] Varanasi is often said to be located between two confluences: one of the Ganges and Varuna, and other of the Ganges and Assi, although the latter has always been a rivulet rather than a river. The distance between the two confluences is around 2.5 miles (4.0 km), and religious Hindus regard a round trip between these two places a Pancha-kroshi Yatra (a five-mile (8.3 km) journey) ending with a visit to a Sakshi Vinayak Temple as a holy ritual.

Climate[edit]

Varanasi experiences a humid subtropical climate (Kppen climate classification: Cwa) with large variations between summer and winter temperatures.[46][47] The dry summer starts in April and lasts until June, followed by the monsoon season from July to October. The temperature ranges between 22 and 46 C (72 and 115 F) in the summers. Winters in Varanasi see very large diurnal variations, with warm days and downright cold nights. Cold waves from the Himalayan region cause temperatures to dip across the city in the winter from December to February and temperatures below 5 C (41 F) are not uncommon. The average annual rainfall is 1,110 mm (44 in). Fog is common in the winters, while hot dry winds, called loo, blow in the summers.[48] In recent years, the water level of the Ganges has decreased significantly; upstream dams, unregulated water extraction, and dwindling glacial sources due to global warming may be to blame.[49][50]

[hide]Climate data for Varanasi Month Average high C (F) Average low C (F) Precipitation mm (inches) Jan
19 (67) 8 (47) 19.3 (0.76)

Feb
24 (76) 12 (54) 13.5 (0.531)

Mar
31 (87) 17 (62) 10.4 (0.409)

Apr
37 (98) 22 (72) 5.4 (0.213)

May
38 (100) 25 (77) 9.0 (0.354) Source: [51][52]

Jun
36 (97) 27 (80) 100 (3.94)

Jul
32 (90) 26 (78) 320.6 (12.622)

Administration[edit]
Politics and law[edit]
Varanasi is governed by a number of bodies, the most important being the Varanasi Nagar Nigam (Municipal Corporation) and the Varanasi Development Authority, which is responsible for the master planning of the city.

Healthcare[edit]
Sushruta, the great surgeon and author of the Sushruta Samhita, the Sanskrit text of surgery lived in Varanasi. The city grew as a place for Authentic Ayurveda and Panchkarma treatment. Many Ayurvedic centers are here.[53] It has several hospitals, Varanasi Hospital and Medical Research Centre, Heritage Hospital, Varanasi, Shiv Prasad Gupta Hospital, Sir Sundar Lal Hospital, Rajkiya Hospital, Mata Anand Mai Hospital, Ram Krishna Mission Hospital, Marwari Hospital, and a Cancer Institute.[54] The largest is Varanasi Hospital, established in 1964 by Dr. Baijnath Prasad.[55] The hospital, which as of 2012 has 66 beds, serves Varanasi and surrounding districts and states, many of which rely on it for surgery.[55] Although the hospital suffers from a lack of funding, it has facilities such as X-ray, Ultrasonography, Echocardiography and a Pathology Lab.[55]

The urban portion of Varanasi District had an infant mortality rate of 70 per 1,000 live births as of 20102011.[56]

Public maintenance[edit]
Due to the high population density and increasing number of tourists, the state government and international NGOs and institutions have expressed grave concern for the pollution and pressures on infrastructure in the city, mainly the sewage, sanitation and drainage components.[57] Between 1985 and 1990, the Ganga Action Plan saw a Rs. 430.5 million renovation of five sewage pumping stations along the ghats and the installation of sewage treatment plants.[57] The sewage problem is exacerbated by the role of the Ganges in bathing and in river traffic, which is very difficult to control.[57] Varanasi's water supply and sewage system is maintained by Jal Nigam, a subsidiary of Nagar Nigam. Power supply is by the Uttar Pradesh Power Corporation Limited. The city produces about 350 million litres per day[58] of sewerage and 425 tonnes per day of solid waste.[59] The solid wastes are disposed in one landfill site.[60]

Demographics[edit]
See also: List of cities in Uttar Pradesh
Religions in Varanasi
Religion Percent

Hindus Muslims Christians Jains Others

80% 18% 0.2% 1.4% 0.4%

Distribution of religions Includes Sikhs (0.2%), Buddhists (<0.2%).

According to provisional data from the 2011 census, the Varanasi urban agglomeration had a population of 1,435,113, with 761,060 men and 674,053 women.[61] The population of the Varanasi urban agglomeration in 2001 was 1,371,749m with a ratio of 879 females every 1,000 males.[62]However, the area under Varanasi Nagar Nigam has a population of 1,100,748[63] with a ratio of 883 females for every 1,000 males.[63] The literacy rate in the urban agglomeration is 77% while that in the municipal corporation area is 78%.[63] Approximately 138,000 people in the municipal area live in slums.[64]

Economy[edit]

Banarasi sari

Approximately 29% of Varanasi's population is employed.[65] Approximately 40% of those employed work in manufacturing, 26% work in trade and commerce, 19% work in other services, 8% work in transport and communication, 4% work in agriculture, 2% work in construction, and 2% are marginal workers (working for less than half of the year).[66] Among manufacturing workers, 51% work in spinning and weaving, 15% work in metal, 6% work in printing and publishing, 5% work in electrical machinery, and the rest work in a wide variety of industry sectors.[67] Varanasi's manufacturing industry is not well developed and is dominated by small-scale industries and household production.[65] Silk weaving is the dominant manufacturing industry in Varanasi.[68] Weaving is typically done within the household, and most weavers areMomin Ansari Muslims.[69] Varanasi is known throughout India for its production of very fine silk and Banarasi saris, brocades with gold and silver thread work, which are often used for weddings and special occasions. The production of silk often uses bonded child labour, though perhaps not at a higher rate than elsewhere in India.[70] The silk weaving industry has recently been threatened by the rise of power looms and computer-generated designs and by competition from Chinese silk traders.[65] In the metal manufacturing sector, Diesel Locomotive Works is a major employer.[67] Bharat Heavy Electricals Limited, a large power equipment manufacturer, also runs a heavy equipment repair plant.[71] Other major commodities manufactured and traded in Varanasi include hand-knotted Mirzapur carpets, rugs, dhurries, brassware, copperware, wooden and clay toys, handicrafts, gold jewellery, and musical instruments.[68] Important agricultural products include betel leaves (for paan), langra mangoes and khoa (solidified milk).[67][72]

DLW manufactured locomotives hauling load across the Nation.

Tourists shopping for jewelry in Varanasi

Tourism is Varanasi's second most important industry.[73] Over 3 million domestic and 200,000 foreign tourists visit annually (as of 2005 and 2010, respectively), most commonly for religious reasons.[74][73] Most domestic tourists are from Bihar, West Bengal, Madhya Pradesh, and Uttar Pradesh; most foreign tourists are from Sri Lanka and Japan.[75] The peak tourist season falls between October and March.[75] In total, there are around 12,000 beds available in the city, of which about one half are in inexpensive budget hotels and one third in dharamsalas.[76] Overall, Varanasi's tourist infrastructure is not well developed.[76] The prominent malls and multiplexes in Varanasi are IP Mall in Sigra, IP Vijaya Mall in Bhelupur, PDR in Luxa and JHV Mall in the Varanasi Cantonment area. The city has several banks, including the State Bank of India, Indian Overseas Bank, Bank of Baroda, Canara Bank, Andhra Bank, Allahabad Bank, and the Central Bank of India.[77]

Main sights[edit]

Ramnagar Fort.

Varanasi's "Old City", the quarter near the banks of the Ganges, has crowded narrow winding lanes flanked by road-side shops and scores of Hindu temples. As atmospheric as it is confusing, Varanasi's labyrinthine Old City has a rich culture, attracting many travelers and tourists. The main residential areas of Varanasi (especially for the middle and upper classes) are situated in regions far from the ghats; they are more spacious and less polluted. Museums in and around Varanasi include Jantar Mantar, Sarnath Museum, Bharat Kala Bhawan and Ramnagar Fort.

Jantar Mantar[edit]
The Jantar Mantar observatory (1737) is located above the ghats on the Ganges, much above the high water level in the Ganges next to the Manmandir Ghat, near to Dasaswamedh Ghat and adjoining the palace of Raja Jai Singh of Jaipur. Compared to the observatories at Jaipur and Delhi, it is less well equipped but has a unique equatorial sundial which is functional and allows measurements to be monitored and recorded by one person.[78]

Ramnagar Fort[edit]
The Ramnagar Fort located near the Ganges River on its eastern bank, opposite to the Tulsi Ghat, was built in the 18th century by Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh with creamy chunar sandstone. It is in a typically Mughal style of architecture with carved balconies, open courtyards, and scenic pavilions. At present the fort is not in good repair. The fort and its museum are the repository of the history of the kings of Benares. It has been the home of the Kashi Naresh since the 18th century. The current king and the resident of the fort is Anant Narayan Singh who is also known as the

Maharaja of Varanasi even though this royal title has been abolished since 1971.[79][80] Labeled "an eccentric museum", it has a rare collection of American vintage cars, sedan chairs (bejeweled), an impressive weaponry hall and a rare astrological clock.[80] In addition, manuscripts, especially religious writings, are housed in the Saraswati Bhawan. Also included is a precious handwritten manuscript by Goswami Tulsidas. Many books illustrated in the Mughal miniature style, with beautifully designed covers are also part of the collections. Because of its scenic location on the banks of the Ganges, it is frequently used as an outdoor shooting location for films. The film titled Banaras is one of the popular movies shot here. However, only a part of the fort is open for public viewing as the rest of the area is the residence of the Kashi Naresh and his family. It is 14 kilometres (9 miles) from Varanasi.[79][80]

A view of the Ghat of Varanasi from the River Ganges

Ghats[edit]
Main article: Ghats in Varanasi

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Ghats are embankments made in steps of stone slabs along the river bank where pilgrims perform ritual ablutions. Ghats in Varanasi are an integral compliment to the concept of divinity represented in physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements. All the ghats are locations on "the divine cosmic road", indicative of "its manifest transcendental dimension".[81] Varanasi has at least 84 ghats.[82][83][84]Steps in the ghats lead to the banks of River Ganges, including the Dashashwamedh Ghat, the Manikarnika Ghat, the Panchganga Ghat and the Harishchandra Ghat (where Hindus

cremate their dead). Many ghats are associated with legends and several are now privately owned.[85] Many of the ghats were built when the city was under Maratha control. Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, andPeshwas stand out as patrons of present-day Varanasi. Most of the ghats are bathing ghats, while others are used as cremation sites. Morning boat ride on the Ganges across the ghats is a popular visitor attraction. The extensive stretches of ghats enhance the river front with a multitude of shrines, temples and palaces built "tier on tier above the waters edge".[21] The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main and probably the oldest ghat of Varansi located on the Ganges, close to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. It is believed that Brahma created it to welcome Shiva and sacrificed ten horses during the Dasa -Ashwamedha yajna performed here. Above the ghat and close to it, there are also temples dedicated to Sulatankesvara, Brahmesvara, Varahesvara, Abhaya Vinayaka, Ganga (the Ganges), and Bandi Devi which are part of important pilgrimage journeys. A group of priests perform "Agni Pooja" (Worship to Fire) daily in the evening at this ghat as a dedication to Shiva, Ganga, Surya(Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe. Special aartis are held on Tuesdays and on religious festivals.[83]

Vrinda Dar - Fascinating Varanasi where the old and new co-exist

The Manikarnika Ghat is the Mahasmasana (meaning: "great cremation ground") and is the primary site for Hindu cremation in the city. Adjoining the ghat, there are raised platforms that are used for death anniversary rituals. It is said that an ear-ring (Manikarnika) of Shiva or his wife Sati fell here. According to a myth related to the Tarakesvara Temple, a Shiva temple at the ghat, Shiva whispers the Taraka mantra ("Prayer of the crossing") in the ear of the dead. Fourth-century Gupta period inscriptions mention this ghat. However, the current ghat as a permanent riverside embankment was built in 1302 and has been renovated at least three times.[83]

Temples[edit]
Main article: Hindu temples in Varanasi Among innumerable (about 23,000[17]) temples in Varanasi, the most worshiped are: the Kashi Vishwanath Temple of Shiva; the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple; and the Durga Temple known for the band of monkeys that reside in the large trees nearby.[86][87][88]

Kashi Vishwanath temple is the most important temple in Varanasi.

Located on the outskirts of the Ganges, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple dedicated to Varanasi's presiding deity Shiva (Vishwanath "Lord of the world") is an important Hindu temple and one of the 12 Jyotirlinga Shiva temples.[87] It is believed that a single view of Vishwanath Jyotirlinga is worth more than that of other jyotirlingas. The temple has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. The Gyanvapi Mosque, which is adjacent to the temple, is the original site of the temple.[89] The temple, as it exists now, also called Golden Temple,[90] was built in 1780 by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. The two pinnacles of the temple are covered in gold, donated in 1839 by Ranjit Singh, the ruler of the Punjab and the remaining dome is also planned to be gold plated by the Ministry of Culture & Religious Affairs of Uttar Pradesh. On 28 January 1983, the temple was taken over by the government of Uttar Pradesh and its management was transferred to a trust with then Kashi Naresh, Vibhuti Narayan Singh, as president and an executive committee with a Divisional Commissioner as chairman. Numerous rituals, prayers and aratis are held throughout the day, starting from 2:30 am till 11:00 pm.[91] The Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple is one of the sacred temples of the Hindu god Hanuman situated by the Assi River, on the way to the Durga and New Vishwanath temples within the Banaras Hindu University campus.[92] The present temple structure was built in early 1900s by the educationist and freedom fighter, Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, the founder of Banaras Hindu University.[93] It is believed the temple was built on the very spot where the medieval Hindu saint Tulsidas had a vision of Hanuman.[94] Thousands flock to the temple on Tuesdays and Saturdays, weekdays associated with Hanuman. On 7 March 2006, in a terrorist attack one of the three explosions hit the temple while the Aarti was in progress when numerous devotees and people attending a wedding were present and many were injured. However, normal worship was resumed

the next day with devotees visiting the temple and reciting hymns of Hanuman Chalisa (authored by Tulidas) andSundarkand (a booklet of these hymns is provided free of charge in the temple).[93] After the terrorist incident, a permanent police post was set up inside the temple.[95]

18th century Durga Kund Temple, also known as "Monkey temple", overlooking the kund..

There are two temples named "Durga" in Varanasi, Durga Mandir (built about 500 years ago), and Durga Kund (built in the 18th century). Thousands of Hindu devotees visit Durga Kund during Navratri to worship the goddess Durga. The temple, built in Nagara architectural style, has multi-tiered spires[90] and is stained red with ochre, representing the red colour of Durga. The building has a rectangular tank of water called the Durga Kund ("Kund" meaning a pond or pool). Every year on the occasion of Nag Panchami, the act of depicting the godVishnu reclining on the serpent Shesha is recreated in the Kund. While the Annapurna Temple, located close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple, is dedicated to Annapurna, the goddess of food,[87] the Sankatha Temple close to the Sindhia Ghat is dedicated to Sankatha, the goddess of remedy. The Sankatha temple has a large sculpture of a lion and a nine temple cluster dedicated to the nine planets.[87] Kalabhairav Temple, an ancient temple located near the Head Post Office at Visheshar Ganj, is dedicated to Kala-Bhairava, the guardian (Kotwal) of Varanasi.[87] The Mrithyunjay Mahadev Temple, dedicated to Shiva, is situated on the way to Daranagar to Kalbhairav temple. A well near the temple has some religious significance as its water source is believed to be fed from several underground streams, having curative powers.[87] The New Vishwanath Temple located in the campus of Banaras Hindu University is a modern temple which was planned by Pandit Malviya and built by the Birlas.[87] The Tulsi Manas Temple, nearby the Durga Temple, is a modern temple dedicated to the god Rama. It is built at the place where Tulsidas authored the Ramcharitmanas, which narrates the life of Rama. Many verses from this epic are inscribed on the temple walls.[87]

The Bharat Mata Temple, dedicated to the national personification of India, was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. It has relief maps of India carved in marble. Babu Shiv Prasad Gupta and Durga Prasad Khatri, leading numismatists, antiquarians and nationalist leaders, donated funds for its construction.[87]

Mosques[edit]
In the order of their importance the mosques in Varanasi are the Gyanvapi Mosque, the Alamgiri Mosque, the Ganj-e-Shaheedan Mosque and the Chaukhamba Mosque which cater to the prayer needs of 25% of the Muslim population out of total population of about a 1 million. Muslims have been residing in Varanasi since several generations starting from the rule of the Delhi Sultanate.

Culture[edit]

Wall paintings, Varanasi, 1974

Varanasi has its own culture of fine art and literature. Great Indian writers have lived in the city: Kabir, Ravidas and Tulsidas, who wrote much of his Ram Charit Manas here, Kulluka Bhatt, who wrote the best known commentary of Manusmti here in the 15th century,[96] and Bharatendu Harishchandra. Later writers have included Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Shukla, Munshi Premchand, Jagannath Prasad Ratnakar, Devaki Nandan Khatri, Hazari Prasad Dwivedi, Tegh Ali, Kshetresa Chandra Chattopadhyaya, Vagish Shastri, Baldev Upadhyaya, Sudama Pandey (Dhoomil) and Vidya Niwas Mishra. Several newspapers and journals are or were published in Varanasi such as Varanasi Chandroday and its successor Kashivartaprakashika, initially a fortnightly, which later became a weekly journal, first published on 1 June 1851.[97] The main newspaper is Aj, a Hindi-language nationalist newspaper first published in 1920.[98] The newspaper was the bulwark of theIndian National Congress and today is still a major newspaper of Hindi northern India.[98] Art lovers and historians like Rai Krishnadasa, his son Anand Krishna, musicians Omkarnath Thakur, Ravi Shankar, Bismillah Khan,Girija Devi, Siddheshwari Devi, Lalmani Misra and his

son Gopal Shankar Misra, N. Rajam, Anokhelal Mishra, Samta Prasad, Kanthe Maharaj, Sitara Devi, Gopi Krishna, Kishan Maharaj, Rajan and Sajan Mishra, Chhannulal Mishra and numerous others have kept the city alive to the spiritual aspect of fine arts in addition to their ability to entertain. Numerous festivals are celebrated that preserve traditional styles of classical and folk culture. All night, open music concerts like those organised at Sankat Mochan Temple, Hori, Kajari, Chaiti Mela, and Budwa Mangal, are annual features that draw connoisseurs from near and far. Varanasi is the hub of arts and crafts, particularly silks and brocades with gold and silver threadwork, carpet weaving (with a carpet-weaving centre at Bhadoi), wooden toys, bangles made of glass, ivory work, perfumes, artistic brass and copper ware and a variety of handicrafts.[99][100] The former cantonment graveyard during British Raj is now the location of Varanasis Arts and Crafts.[101]

Religion[edit]

People performing Hindu ceremony at Kedar ghats of Varanasi.

Hinduism[edit]
Varanasi is one of the holiest cities and centres of pilgrimage for Hindus of all denominations.[102] It is one of the seven Hindu holiest cities (Sapta Puri), considered the giver of salvation (moksha).[103][104] Over 50,000 Brahmins live in Varanasi, providing religious services to the masses.[103] Hindus believe that bathing in the Ganges remits sins and that dying in Kashi ensures release of a person's soul from the cycle of its transmigrations. Thus, many Hindus arrive here for dying.[105]

As the home to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple Jyotirlinga, it is very sacred for Shaivism. Varanasi is also a Shakti Peetha, where the temple to goddess Vishalakshi stands, believed to be the spot where the goddess Sati's earrings fell.[14] Hindus of the Shakti sect make a pilgrimage to the city because they regard the River Ganges itself to be the Goddess Shakti.[106] Adi Shankara wrote his commentaries on Hinduism here,[107] leading to the great Hindu revival. As of 2001, Hindus made up approximately 84% of the population of Varanasi District.[108]

Islam[edit]
Construction of the Mosque of Aurangzeb near the bank of theGanges River at Varanasi.

Interwoven within one million Hindus are two hundred and fifty thousand Muslims who have made Varanasi their home for more than a thousand years. As of 2001, Muslims made up approximately 16% of the population of Varanasi District.[108] Muslims live in the close-knit communities founded in the days of the Delhi Sultanate and later Mughal Empire. The Muslim call to prayer, Azaan, can be heard from theGyanvapi Mosque five times a day. The other important Mosques in Varanasi include: Alamgiri Mosque, Ganj-e-Shaheedan Mosque andChaukhamba Mosque.

Jain Ghat, Varanasi.

Others[edit]
As of the 2001 census, persons of other religions or no religion made up 0.4% of the population of Varanasi District.[108] Varanasi is a pilgrimage site for Jains along with Hindus and Buddhists. It is believed to be the birthplace of Suparshvanath, Shreyansanath, and Parshva, who are respectively the seventh, eleventh, and twenty-third Jain Tirthankars and as such Varanasi is a holy city for Jains. ShreeParshvanath Digambar Jain Tirth Kshetra (Digambar Jain Temple) is situated in Bhelupur, Varanasi. This temple is of great religious importance to the Jain Religion. Sarnath, a suburb of Varanasi, is a place of Buddhist pilgrimage. It is the site of the deer park where Siddhrtha Gautama is said to have given his first sermon about the basic principles

of Buddhism.[109] The Dhamek Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas still in existence, though only its foundation remains.[110] Also remaining is the Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where Buddha met his first disciples in the 5th century.[31] An octagonal tower was built later there. Guru Nanak Dev visited Varanasi for Shivratri in 1507 and had an encounter which with other events forms the basis for the story of the founding of Sikhism. Varanasi also hosts the Roman Catholic Diocese of Varanasi, and has a significant Jewish expatriate community. Varanasi is home to numerous tribal faiths which are not easily classified.

Religious festivals[edit]
On Mahashivaratri (February) which is dedicated to Shiva a procession of Shiva proceeds from the Mahamrityunjaya Temple to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.[86] Dhrupad Mela is a five-day musical festival devoted to dhrupad style held at Tulsi Ghat in February March.[111] The Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple celebrates Hanuman Jayanti (MarchApril), the birthday of Hanuman with great fervour. A special puja, aarti, and a public procession is organized.[112][113] Starting in 1923, the temple organizes a five-day classical music and dance concert festival titled Sankat Mochan Sangeet Samaroh in this period, when iconic artists from all parts of India are invited to perform.[86][114][115][116] The Ramlila of Ramnagar is a dramatic enactment of Rama's legend, as told in Ramacharitamanasa.[7] The plays, sponsored by Kashi Naresh, are performed in Ramnagar every evening for 31 days.[7] On the last day, the festivities reach a crescendo as Rama vanquishes the demon king Ravana.[7] Kashi Naresh Udit Narayan Singh started this tradition around 1830.[7][117] Bharat Milap celebrates the meeting of Rama and his younger brother Bharata after the return of the former after 14 years of exile.[86] It is celebrated during OctoberNovember, a day after the festival of Vijayadashami. Kashi Naresh attends this festival in his regal attire resplendent in regal finery. The festival attracts a large number of devotees.[117]

Krishna standing on serpent Kaliyaduring Nag Nathaiya festival in Varanasi

Nag Nathaiya, celebrated on the fourth lunar day of the dark fortnight of the Hindu month of Kartik (OctoberNovember), that commemorates the victory of the god Krishna over the serpent Kaliya. On this occasion, a large Kadamba tree (Neolamarckia cadamba) branch is planted on the banks of the Ganges so that a boy acting the role of Krishna can jump into the river on to the effigy representing Kaliya. He stands over the effigy in a dancing pose playing the flute; the effigy and the boy standing on it is given a swirl in front of the audience. People watch the display standing on the banks of the river or from boats.[118] Ganga Mahotsav is a five-day music festival organized by the Uttar Pradesh Tourism Department, held in NovemberDecember culminating a day before Kartik Poornima (Dev Deepawali). On Kartik Poornima also called the Ganges festival, the Ganges is venerated by arti offered by thousands of pilgrims who release lighted lamps to float in the river from the ghats.[86][111] Annually Jashne-Eid Miladunnabi is celebrated on the day of Barawafat in huge numbers by Muslims in a huge rally coming from all the parts of the city and meeting up at Beniya Bagh.

Education[edit]
Main article: Educational institutions in Varanasi

Indian Institute of Technology (BHU) Varanasi is an Institute of National Importance in Varanasi

Historically, Varanasi has been an education center in India, drawing students and scholars from across the country.[119][120] Varanasi has an overall literacy rate of 80% (male literacy: 85%, female literacy: 75%).[61] It is home of a number of colleges and universities. Most notably, it is the site of Banaras Hindu University, which with over 20,000 students[121] is one of the largest residential universities in Asia.[122] The Indian Institute of Technology (BHU) Varanasi is an Institute of National Importance in Varanasi and is one of India's 16 IITs. Other colleges and universities in Varanasi include Sampurnanand Sanskrit University, Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth, Imania Arabic College, Central Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies (at Sarnath), Kashi Institute of Technology,

Varanasi (Kashi IT),[123]Institute of Integrated Management and Technology (IIMT), Udai Pratap Autonomous College, Nav Sadhana Kala Kendra, Harischandra P.G. College, Agrasen Kanya P.G. collage and numerous others. Various other engineering colleges have been set up in the outskirts of the city. Schools in Varanasi are affiliated with the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education (ICSE), the Central Board of Secondary Education(CBSE), or the U.P. Board.[citation needed] The overall "state of education in Varanasi is ... not good."[124] Schools in Varanasi vary widely in quality, with private schools outperforming government schools.[124] In government schools, many teachers fail to come to class or to teach children.[124] Some government schools lack basic equipment, such as blackboards and sufficient desks and chairs for all students.[124]Private schools vary in quality, with the most expensive conducting lessons in English (seen as a key to children's success) and having computers in classrooms.[124] Pupils attending the more expensive private schools (with tuition around 300 Rs./month in 20012002), tended to come from upper-class families.[124] Lower-cost private schools (with tuition around 50 Rs./month in 20012002) attracted children from lowerincome families or those lower-income families with higher education aspirations.[124] Government schools tend to serve lower-class children with lower education aspirations.[124]

Music[edit]
Main article: Music in Varanasi

Saint Goswami Tulsidas Awadhi Hindi Poet and prorogator of Bhakthi music in Varanasi

Music in Varanasi is linked to the Pauranic legends. Lord Shiva who is reported to have established this city was credited with evolving music and dance forms. In the historical medieval times, when Vaishnava Bhakthi movement was a rage in the country, literature of the times attest to the fact that Kashi was then a famous center of music. Saint musicians who furthered the musical fame were Surdas, Kabir,Raidas, Meera and Tulsidas, which continues to this day. During the monarchic rule of Govind Chandra in the 16th century, the Dhrupadstyle of singing received royal patronage and led to other related forms of music such as Dhamar, Hori and Chaturang.[125] In recent times, Girija Devi, the famous classical singer of thumris, who was born here was instrumental in elevating music to a status of respectability and appreciation.[126] Apart from the vocal music singers, Varanasi is also associated with many great instrumentalists like Ustad Bismillah Khan an iconic Sehnai maestro,[125] Pandit Ravi Shankar, the famous sitar player and musicologist who was given the highest civilian award of the country, theBharat Ratna.[127]

Sport[edit]
Basketball, Cricket and Field hockey are popular in Varanasi.[128] The main stadium in the city is the Sigra Stadium, also known as Dr Sampurnanda Stadium, where first-class cricket matches are held.[129] Local cricket matches are also played on the Banaras Hindu University grounds.[130] The Physical Education Faculty of Arts of Banaras Hindu University offers diploma courses in Sports Management, Sports Physiotherapy, Sports Psychology and Sports Journalism.[131] Gymnastics is also popular in Varanasi, and many Indian girls practice outdoors at the ghats in the mornings which hosts akhadas, where "morning exercise, a dip in the Ganga and a visit to Lord Hanuman" forms a daily ritual.[132] The Varanasi District Chess Sports Association (VDCSA) is based in Varanasi, affiliated to the regional UP Chess Sports Association (UPCSA).[133] Udai Pratap Autonomous College is also famous for its world class athletes like Prashanti Singh.[134]

Transport[edit]

Varanasi Junction, the largest station serving the city

Varanasi is well connected by air, rail and road. One of the major factors in Varanasi's sustained existence as an inhabited city is its role as an established transportation hub between cities. Varanasi is served by Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, which is approximately 26 km (16 mi) from the city centre in Babatpur.[135]The airport inaugurated a new terminal in 2010, and it was granted international airport status on October 4, 2012.[136][137] Air India,Buddha Air, Jet Airways, Jet Konnect,IndiGo, and SpiceJet operate flights from Varanasi to Delhi, Gaya, Kathmandu, Khajuraho, Sharjah,Lucknow, Mumbai, Hyderabad, Bangalore and Kolkata.[138] Over 330,000 passengers pass through the airport each year.[136] Varanasi Junction, commonly known as Varanasi Cantt Railway Station, is the city's largest train station; more than 3.6 lakh passengers and 240 trains pass through each day.[139]

The Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport

Varanasi lies along National Highway 2, which connects it to Kolkata, Kanpur, Agra and Delhi.[43] National Highway 29 connects Varanasi toGorakhpur via Ghazipur to the northeast. National Highway 56 connects Varanasi to Lucknow via Jaunpur and Sultanpur, to the northwest.[43] National Highway 7, the longest National Highway in India, is the most important road connecting Varanasi to southern India, passing through the cities of Hyderabad, Bangalore, Salem, Madurai, Tirunelveli and Kanyakumari.[43] Auto rickshaws and cycle rickshawsare the most widely available forms of public transport in old city.[140] In the outer regions of the city, buses are common, and taxis are available.[140]

Cycle rickshaws in a busy street in Varanasi

Varanasi Junction

Benares State
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Kingdom of Kashi)

Flag of Benares

Varanasi, capital of Benares State

Benares was an Indian princely state, whose roots go back to the Kingdom of Kashi, which was an independent Bhumihar Brahmin state until 1194. It became a British territory in 1775, and a state in 1911. It is the site of Ramnagar Fort and its museum, which are the repository of the history of the kings of Varanasi and, since the 18th century, has been the home of the Kashi Naresh.[1] Even today the Kashi Naresh is deeply revered by the people of Varanasi.[1] He is a religious leader and the people of Varanasi consider him an incarnation of Lord Shiva.[1] He is also the chief cultural patron and an essential part of all religious celebrations.[1] The ruling family claims descent from the God Shiva and benefits greatly from pilgrimages to Benares.

Contents [hide]

1 History 2 Kashi Naresh 3 History of Ramnagar 4 Ram leela at Ramnagar 5 All India Kashi raj Trust 6 Saraswati Bhawan at Ramnagar Fort 7 Vyasa Temple at Ramnagar 8 Notes

History[edit]
The Kingdom of Kashi was founded by Khsetravridha, the son of Ayus, of the Somavansa dynasty of Pratishthana. It lost independence in 1194 and was eventually ceded by the Nawab of Oudh to the British Raj in 1775, who recognized Benares as a family dominion. Benares became a state in 1911.[2] It was given the privilege of 13-gun salute. The governor of Benares gave most of the area currently known as Varanasi to Mansa Ram, a Gautam Bhumihar Brahmin zamindar of Utaria. Balwant Singh, the ruler of Utaria in 1737, received the territories of Jaunpur, Varanasi and Chunar in 1740 from the Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah of Delhi. The Kingdom of Benaras started in this way under the Mughal dynasty. Other places under the kingship of Kashi Naresh were Chandauli, Gyanpur, Chakia, Latifshah, Mirzapur, Nandeshwar, Mint House and Vindhyachal. With the decline of the Mughal Empire, the military or Bhumihar Brahmin strengthened their sway in the area south of Avadh and in the fertile rice growing areas of Benares,Gorakhpur, Deoria, Ghazipur, Ballia and Bihar and on the fringes of Bengal.[3] The strong clan organisation on which they rested, brought success to the lesser Hindu princes.[3]There were as many as 100,000 Bhumihar Brahmin clansmen backing the power of the Benares rajas in what later became the districts of Benares, Gorakhpur and Azamgarh.[3]This proved a decisive advantage when the dynasty faced a rival and the nominal suzerain, the Nawab of Awadh, in the 1750s and the 1760s.[3] An exhausting guerrilla war, waged by the Benares ruler against the Avadh camp, using his Brahmin clan troops, forced the Nawab to withdraw his main force.[3] According to Orthodox Brahmin traditions, no one has seen Kashi Naresh eat food, and none of the kings have travelled abroad, in keeping with strict Brahmin rules.[4] Kashi Naresh has played host to a list of dignitaries which includesKing Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev, Nepal, King Birendra Bir Birkram Shah Dev, Nepal Bishweshwar Prasad Koirala, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, Rajendra

Prasad, Indira Gandhi, Queen Elizabeth, Nelson Mandela, the Dalai Lama, President Kocheril Raman Narayanan and his Burmese wife.[4]

Kashi Naresh[edit]
Main article: Narayan dynasty The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is believed to be a descendent of Lord Shiva. During the religious occasion of Shivratri, the Kashi Naresh is the chief officiating priest and no other priest is allowed entry into the garbhagriha or sanctum sanctorum. Only after he performs his religious offerings may anyone else be allowed to enter. The residential palace of the Naresh is the Ramnagar Fort at Ramnagar near Varanasi, which is next to the river Ganges.[5] On January 28, 1983, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple was taken over by the government of Uttar Pradesh and its management was transferred to a trust, with the late Vibhuti Narayan Singh, then Kashi Naresh, as President, and an executive committee with the Divisional Commissioner as Chairman.[6] Vibhuti Narayan Singh was the last Naresh to see kingship after Benares was ceded to the Union of India on 15 October 1948. After his death in 2000, his son Anant Narayan Singh became responsible for upholding the traditional duties of a Kashi Naresh.

History of Ramnagar[edit]
The Ramnagar Fort was built by Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh with creamy chunar sandstone in the eighteenth century.[7] It is a typically Mughal style of architecture with carved balconies, open courtyards, and picturesque pavilions.[7]

Ram leela at Ramnagar[edit]

When the Dussehra festivities are inaugurated with a colourful pageant, the Kashi Naresh rides an elephant at the head of the procession.[8] Then, resplendent in silk and brocade, he inaugurates the month-long folk theatre of Ramlila at Ramnagar.[8] The Ramlila is a cycle of plays which recounts the epic story of Lord Rama, as told in Ramcharitmanas, the version of the Ramayana written by Tulsidas.[8] The plays, sponsored by the Maharaja, are performed in Ramnagar every evening for 31 days.[8] On the last day the festivities reach a crescendo as Rama vanquishes the demon king Ravana.[8]Maharaja Udit Narayan Singh started this tradition of staging the Ramleela at Ramnagar in the mid-nineteenth century.[8]

Over a million pilgrims arrive annually for the vast processions and performances organized by the Kashi Naresh.[9]

All India Kashi raj Trust[edit]

Serious work on the Puranas began when the All India Kashiraj Trust was formed under the patronage and guidance of Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh, the Maharaja of Kashi, which, in addition to producing critical editions of the Puranas, also published the journal Puranam.[10]

Saraswati Bhawan at Ramnagar Fort[edit]

A rare collection of manuscripts, especially religious writings, is housed in Saraswati Bhawan. It includes a precious handwritten manuscript by Goswami Tulsidas.[11] There are also many books illustrated in the Mughal miniature style, with beautifully designed covers.[11]

Vyasa Temple at Ramnagar[edit]

According to a popular Puranic story, when Vyasa failed to receive alms in Varanasi, he put a curse on the city.[11] Soon after, at a house where Parvati and Shiva had taken human form as householders, Vyasa was so pleased with the alms he received that he forgot his curse.[11] However, because of Vyasa's bad temper Shiva banished him from Varanasi.[11] Resolving to remain nearby, Vyasa took up residence on the other side of the Ganges, where his temple may still be seen at Ramnagar.[11]

Understand[edit]
Varanasi, once known as Benares or Banaras and Kashi, is a historical city in northern India. The city is sacred to Hindus and Jains and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. In many ways Varanasi epitomizes the very best and worst aspects of India, and it can be a little overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganges at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world. Some people believe that Varanasi is a must see destination on any trip to northern India. Others do not find it particularly interesting to see Hindus bathing themselves in the Ganges, and are turned off by the feces that floods the Ganges and covers the alleys of Varanasi. The River Ganga is a sacred river for the Hindus. Here, traditional rituals and practices still continue millions still come from all over the country to bathe on sacred days. On the Eastern banks, the River Ganga is flanked by a 300 metre wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescentshaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats along 6.8km, marked by lofty palatial buildings and temples that have been built mostly by kings and feudal lords from different parts of India between the 18th and 20th century. The city can be scorching hot in the summer months so, if possible, time your visit to fall between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights, instead.

Get in[edit]
Varanasi is well connected by train and bus, with multiple of each heading in every direction daily. The trains and buses are filthy and overcrowded by Western standards. However, those are the only mode of cheap transport and the travel itself will give you special experience and feel that you are really heading to Varanasi.

By train[edit]
Trains are the easiest way to reach Varanasi, with multiple daily services to cities including Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Mumbai and Kolkata. Varanasi is served by two major railway stations. Many trains arrive at Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB) in the heart of the city, and many others arrive at Mughal Sarai Junction (IR station code : MGS), about 15 km east of the city (Rs 20, 45 min in a rickshaw).

Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi: Train Number 12424 12436 12560 12165 12336 12333 12307 12669 12295 17091 14854 14864 Train Name Rajdhani Express Rajdhani Express Shivganga Express Lokmanya Tilak (T) Varanasi Express Lokmanya Tilak (T) Bhagalpur Express Vibhuti Express Howrah-Jodhpur Express Ganga Kaveri Express Sangamitra Express Secunderabad-Patna Express Marudhar Express Marudhar Express You may board at New Delhi New Delhi, Lucknow New Delhi Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai) Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai) Howrah (Kolkata) Howrah (Kolkata) Chennai Central Bangalore City, Chennai Central Secunderabad (Hyderabad) Jaipur, Agra Fort Jaipur, Agra Fort You may alight at Mughal Sarai Junction Varanasi Junction Varanasi Junction Varanasi Junction Mughal Sarai Junction Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction Mughal Sarai Junction Varanasi Junction Mughal Sarai Junction Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction Varanasi Junction Varanasi Junction

Also see Rail travel in India

By bus[edit]
There are daily buses to the Nepali border and other points around northern India. Local buses leave from the main bus station near the train station, almost every hour in the morning and one in the evening, to Gorakhpur (5-6 hrs, Rs 120), from where buses leave to the Nepali border at Sonauli (3 hrs, Rs 56). There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8 hrs), Kanpur (9 hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad (3 hrs - Rs. 88).

By plane[edit]
Varanasi Airport (IATA: VNS) is about 25 km from the city center. Indian Airlines [1], Jet Airways/JetLite [2] and SpiceJet [3] all have daily flights to Delhi and there are daily flights to Mumbai on JetLite, Indian Airlines and SpiceJet. Allow plenty of time to get to the airport, it can take an hour or more depending on traffic. A taxi (from the pre-paid stand just outside the terminal) should run around Rs 400-500 (plus Rs 40 parking toll) or about Rs 125 in an auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will want to charge

double since they will likely be coming back empty. If it suits your schedule there is a daily bus at 10AM that leaves from Hotel India and costs Rs 50.

Get around[edit]

Traffic in Varanasi.

Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. Rickshaws are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train stations. A cycle-rickshaw from the Junction train station to Dasaswamedh Ghat (or Godaulia if the road is closed) should cost Rs 20, an auto rickshaw about Rs 70. From Godaulia to Assi Ghat is Rs 10.

Taxis exist but traffic makes them impractical. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station, however if you go with this option make sure to keep your prepaid receipt until the end of your journey, or your driver may not take you the whole way. Rs 55 is enough to get to the old town.

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.

By car There are many car rental companies available. These car rental companies can arrange some Varanasi sightseeing tours and customized car rental packages according to the requirement of tourists.

See[edit] [add listing]

New Vishvanath Temple at BHU

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations as such: instead, the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city. Three monuments on the Gnaga riverfront ghats are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India: ManMandir observatory on the Manmandir Ghat; Dharhara Masjid on Panchaganga Ghat; and Lal Khan ka Roza on Rajghat.

Vishwanath Temple - also known as the Golden Temple, security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.

Kaal Bhairav Temple - is the temple for Kaal Bhairav - a dreadful form of Lord Shiva symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy black threads (costs about Rs. 15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), keep it in the shrine and then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as a protection against evil forces.

Nepali Hindu Temple - A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat.

Alamagir Mosque - Overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

Man Mandir Observatory - This observatory has instruments such as sun dial to measure the eclipse, time and other similar kind of elements.

Tulsi Manas Temple - Located near very popular Durga temple, this marvelous temple is dedicated to lord Rama. Tulsi Manas temple was established during 1964 in the form of white marble structure.

Durga Temple - Built in 18th century, Durga temple is made as a tribute to Goddess Durga. It is also referred as monkey temple and one of the well know temples in Varanasi.

Bharat Mata Temple - The Bharat Mata temple at Varanasi is the only temple dedicated to Mother India. It is located in the Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth campus. The Bharat Mata temple was built by Babu Shiv Prasad Gupt and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. The statute of Bharat Mata is built in marble and is a model of undivided India, depicting the mountains, plains and oceans. The most peculiar thing about the Bharat Mata Temple is that instead of the customary gods and goddesses, it houses a relief map of India, carved out of marble.

Banaras Hindu University - a very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, having approx. 124 independent departments. You can also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archeology inside the university. There is also a huge white marbled temple called Vishwanath Temple which was built by Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya, the founder of the university.

Sarnath - It is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The exact location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.

Dhamek stupa at sarnath

Ram Nagar Fort - The fort of the King of Kashi which is situated at the other side of the river.

Gauri Matha Temple - The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit her just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to the God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganges. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.

Ghats[edit] [add listing]

Floating away While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and deposited into the Ganges. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting inputrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squeamish.

Dasaswamedh Ghat (main ghat)

A ghat is a series of steps leading down to the river, used by bathers and pilgrims, and riverside Varanasi consists of a long sequence of these. It's generally possible to walk directly between them, though near Manikarnika Ghat you'll have to navigate your way up and around through the alleyways. The best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river. Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where bodies are cremated (in full view) before their ashes are placed in the Ganges. Some of the main ghats, from north to south:

Panchganga Ghat - the meeting of the five rivers.

Manikarnika Ghat - the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs (note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section). Dasaswamedh Ghat - the main ghat and site of the large evening aarti; only reachable by foot at some times of day, about a 5 minute walk south from Godaulia. Rana Ghat - The ghat is located on the banks of Ganga which helps people to do religious ceremony without any difficult. Kedar Ghat - brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic. Narad Ghat - the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the myth of contention. Harishchandra Ghat - the cremation place were Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son. Hanuman Ghat - It was previously known as Ramesvaram Ghat and located at holy spot known as Juna Akhara in Varanasi. People believe that the Ghat was constructed by Lord Rama and hence it is dedicated to his favorite disciple, Lord Hanuman.

Shivala Ghat - The ghat is constructed by King Balwant Singh and it played important role during middle ages. It comes under western part of Varanasi and as name suggests disciples connect it with Lord Shiva.

Tulsi Ghat - site of the large water purification plant. Assi Ghat - a popular place to stay with many hotels, restaurants and internet cafes.

Festivals[edit] [add listing]

Diwali is a great time to be in Varanasi, with special preparations going on in many temples. The once-in-a-year decorations and aarti at the ghats are spectacular.

Shivaratri is another great time to be in Varanasi. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of classic Indian music going on night and day for three days. Since the date of the festival is decided by Hindu calendar, the date is never clear and changes every year.

Do[edit] [add listing]

Men praying between boats in the Ganges

Bathe Over 60,000 people come down to the waters edge every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganges. Try not to think too much about the dozens of sewage pipes and sunken corpses in the waters around you and you'll find it's not nearly as bad as you expect once you're actually in it. Although medically, bathing in water in which a corpse rests risks infection with numerous blood borne diseases (notably hepatitis) and many infections.

Boat rides are very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening aarti from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price down to around Rs 30/person per hour (even for just 1 person in the boat), but expect to be quoted much higher the current bargained down 'foreign tourist' rate for a boat ride is Rs 300! In fact there is a price limit set by the city in 1998 but still in force today that sets a price range from Rs 50 for boats up to four seats to a maximum of 125 for very large boats. (That's per hour and boat not per person.) At Dasaswamedh there is even a huge sign (in Hindi only) alerting tourists to that fact. If you go Nishadraj ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats. Otherwise, many hotels in Varanasi organise 'free' boat rides for you, the catch being that the 'free' portion of the

ride is usually only half an hour, and after seeing 30mins of the river enough people agree to pay for more to make it worth their while.

Sankrit Tour Zone has its extension counter on Dashaswamedh ghat which books Sunrise boating directly online and offline. Fixed rate shop with no bargaining. email: sankritabhishek@gmail.com or +91-9648000010. During the trip "market boats" will float up to you selling overpriced trinkets which can be bought much cheaper on land. Any offers of flowers for puja will definitely not be free; Rs 2 per flower bowl and Rs 5 per candle bowl are the going rates, though as a tourist you might be asked for as much as Rs 100 each.

Varanasi alleyways

Varanasi street scene by the Ganges

Walk Get lost in the alleyways - the sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable! The best way to explore Varanasi ghats is by walking.

Kriti Gallery, Raman Niwas, Mahmoor Ganj, Varanasi (opposite All India Radio Station), +91 9839058007. 11am-6 pm. A place to interact with contemporary art in the city of Varanasi. edit

Learn[edit]

Hindi Language Center, B1\150 L-10 Assi (near Banaras Hindu University), +91 9452247010, e-mail:binitkumar_mishra@rediffmail.com. Learn Hindi with teacher Binit Kumar Mishra. Mr. Mishra can teach anyone enough Hindi in a few days to conduct the kinds of simple business that travelers must do every day. A little Hindi opens many doors. edit

Sanjeevani Booti (

), Assi Ghat, e-mail: info@booti.org. A sexual health,

drug, and HIV education NGO. There is always demand for foreigners to visit because there is always work related to public health education to be done. A great volunteer opportunity. edit

Punarnava Health (address= dumraon bag colony), Assi (behind dumraon bag colony park), +91 9453109313; ask for Dr.Pramod Kumar., email: drpramodbhu@gmail.com. Ayurvedic treatment, Ayurvedic massage, Shirodhara, steam bath, leech therapy, health package, Panchkarma, etc. Learn Ayurvedic food habits, daily routine. Basics of Ayurveda course, massage therapy course. edit

Yoga is also popular, and the same rules apply. Benares Hindu University offers a wide range of classes on topics related to classical Indian studies in English.

Buy[edit] [add listing]

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and bargain hard!

Mehrotra Silk Factory, K 4-8A, Lal Ghat, Raj Mandir (near Brahma Ghat, follow the multiple yellow signs), +91 542 2435892. Government Approved. Has set,

reasonable prices and a good selection of handwoven pure silk Sarees, dress materials, bedcovers and hot chocolate and other silk materials. edit

Wow India, Assi Ghat (the big corner shop, follow the tourists). A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, a good herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed. edit

Dirty Laundry - A traveler's secondhand shop, Dirty Laundry sells used clothing, electronics, books and other travel essentials. They will take your old goods on exchange. Located on the main road that runs along the length of the ghats. If you walk out to the main road from the small burning ghat go to the right and walk about 1km. If you go to the road from the main ghat head to the left for about 1km. It's hard to miss, just look for the big purple signage.

Loan arts &crafts (mloan_in@yahoo.com), s.20/52a,nepalikothi (before hotel surya 10 yards left), +91--9336062161. 12. Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashminas, hand embroidered and hand stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts. edit

Pratha, Shop No.38, Kashi Anathalaya Building, Maldahiya (Lahurabir - Maldahiya Main Road, Lane by the Main Anathalaya Building), +91 9451089499. 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM. A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides. edit

Sri Guru Perfumers, D, 32/15, Munshi Ghat (Bengali Tola Lane, before Spicie Bites). Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them are made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Homemade incenses are great. You enter Bengali Tola Lane on the way to Dasaswamedh Ghat. Turn at the Bank of Baroda ATM. There is another perfume shop on the corner before Sri Guru Perfumers, so be aware. edit

Eat[edit] [add listing]

There are numerous food outlets and a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success. To get really authentic Banarasi Khana you're going to have to get to the main market area or, better, to have a banarasi friend inviting you at home. Benares Dum Aloo is a local specialty, and the city is also known for its desserts. You can't go away from Benares without eating local specialities as aloo chat and pani puri and, in general, the street food. Paan, a betel nut

mixture usually containing tobacco, is not really food, but is something Benares is famous for all over India.

Benarasi Delicacies[edit] [add listing]

Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff. Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors. Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.

Rabri/Malai shops: (a couple of shops, near Godowlia Crossing opposite to the Church) Try out fresh rabri and malai in the evening (7PM-9PM). Really good stuff !!! One of the best rabri shops is on the alleyway that leads to the vishwanath temple (the main shiva temple) from the Dashashwamedh Ghat side. This is a tiny hole-in-the-wall rabri shop next to a big sari shop (Kanjilal and company) and loads of shops selling bangles. Another excellent place for rabri & malai is Atul's shop (6-12 pm), another holein-the wall shop on the alley that starts beside the Bank of Baroda ATM on Dasaswamedh ghat ; just ask anybody for Atul Bhaiyyas shop once you enter the alley.

Madhur Jalpan:The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.

Budget[edit] [add listing]

Spicy Bites, D. 32/16A Bangali Tola, Varanasi (Located on Bangali Tola, an alleyway off Dashashwamegh Ghat (main Ghat)), +91 9935516530, email:spicybitesvaranasi@gmail.com. One of a number of restaurants along Bangali Tola, this place is great for breakfast as they have a full on espresso machine and serve good food. Free WiFi. Under 150 Rs for a breakfast with espresso & drinks. edit

Nice cafe, Bengali Tola (near Mona Lisa, on turn off for Vishnu GH). 7am - late. Great food cooked only by mum and family. Home kitchen. Clean. Friendly and helpful owner. Very reasonable prices, except on festival days when hot chocolate is poured over

everyone for a fixed price of 1000 rupees per person. Check out the garlic / cheese nan and the pancakes! 25-55 for meal. edit

Karki's Restaurant If you're in Assi Ghat this place is a great oasis with a rooftop restaurant that serves cheap but great quality Nepalese & Italian food among others. Highly recommended are the Nepalese Thali and Fresh Basil Pesto Pasta (only Sat & Sun). It's on the main road down to Assi Ghat on the left, look for the green roof as it's upstairs and has a small entrance. Say hi to Karki and his gorgeous daughter who loves to poke faces at guests.

Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.

Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on offer, notably a thali for Rs 20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.

A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north / south Indian dishes.

Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.

Ganga View, D 22/16 Chaustti Ghat, Varanasi (Sita Guest House rooftop). One of the myriad guest house rooftop restaurants in Varanasi and not a particularly memorable one at that. Serves Indian continental and western food (non-veg not available). Like most places in the area the rooftop is enclosed in a cage to keep the monkeys out (or is that humans in?) which detracts from the view. edit

Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialize in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just

down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Phone +91 9369305877.

Ganga Paying Guest House & Rooftop Restaurant, (near Assi Ghat on the bank of River Ganges) +91-9936491103. A very nice place to eat with an awesome view of River Ganges and all the ghats. The food is very nice but it takes a little time but with that beautiful view you would like to spend more time sitting there even without food.

99 Not Out - Veg Cafe, 6 Kashiraj Apartment, Kamachha (Rly Stn - BHU main road near Rathyatra), +91-9415226752. 12.00 Noon to 10.30 PM. Extremely neat & clean place serving pure veg burgers, pizza, pasta, chowmein, hot dog etc. A wide range of thick shakes and exclusive cold drinks alongwith full range of Ice Creams. edit

Samara Restaurant (Samara), B-38/1-S, Mahmoorganj (1 KM from Rathyatra to Akashwani), +91 542-2364484. 11AM to 11PM. Pure Vegetatian Indian, North Indian, Chinese, South Indian. edit

Mid-range[edit] [add listing]

Filocafe' ( +91-9839066788), A space to study, read, network, converse, experiment, think Filocaf provides a perfect haven for this and much more. Come here to showcase or appreciate up-and-coming talents musical, intellectual, poetic, artistic or use this free space for any other activity that relates to the city and its local culture or makes us grow as people. Equipped with free Wi-Fi and electric outlets available to all, Filocaf offers a variety of over 45 types of teas, Italian espresso coffee (yes, coming out from those Italian machines) and its creative varieties, fresh juices and a few munchies. Open from 2pm to 10pm.

Aum Cafe / Ayurvedic Cafe : near Assi Ghat, owned and run by Shivani Ayurvedic food/ Organic Teas and Coffees, Healthy Vegan/ Vegetarian friendly atmosphere with free Wi Fi. Hearty nutritious dishes. Some Indian and western choices. Located behind the temple on Assi Ghat.

Madhur Milan Cafe, Dashashwamedh Road, is a nice place for Indian snacks and meals at cheap prices. The price range for a persons full meal varies between Rs. 40 150. Cafe is primarily famous for its fried hot samosas, dosa and kachori sabji. Website : [4].

Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are Rs. 85 or less. Closed on Sundays. [December 2011] Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around Rs. 100-130 for a vegetarian and around Rs. 180200 for non vegetarian main meal.

Open Hand Shop & Cafe, Assi Ghat, (around the corner from Hotel Haifa), +91 542 2369 751, [5]. The bakery has daily fresh bread, cakes, pies & various pastries. The food selection includes set breakfast, salads, breadrolls and fruit salad. The espressobased coffees and fresh fruit smoothies are the main attractions. The shop is selling fixed-price merchandise on fair-trade principles. Free Internet.

Flavours Cafe, Lanka, ('above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lighly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.

Brown Bread Bakery, near Meer ghat, 09838888823. Is a good bakery run by a German baker in Varanasi, be wary of the Indian run bakery on the opposite side of the road who claims charity but is just fake. Breads and pastries made from organically grown ingredients. Also a nice range of cheeses. The restaurant has a large menu including Continental, Italian, German and Indian classics, has a great rooftop and offers a breakfast buffet from 7 to 12. Quality is pretty good and a part of the proceeds supports the Learn For Life society which operates a free school for disadvantaged children in Aurangabad, Varanasi.

Bread of Life Bakery, Shivala Road, (a few hundred metres north of Assi Ghat), +91 542 227 5012. Good baked goods, but also a full restaurant with okay breakfasts including "American" pancakes and canned-OJ (freshly-squeezed no longer). Used to be very popular but the quality is now questionable. I would not recommend this at all. Set up by an American James Hetherington who claimed to be a businessman ; it was actually a front for his Christian missionary activities. He hails from Kansas, Missouri and Bread of Life Bakery originated there.

Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91542-2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental.

Middle-Eastern Food[edit] Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientle, and charge a little over Rs 100 for a thali.

Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Its now just a regular hotel. The food is awful too with the Jordanians gone.

Hayat mediterreian': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by authentic middle-easterners (from Jordan). Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanSoush (eggplant) with pita. The Nanas (mint-lemon drink) are the best in town. The feta is a tad high in salt, but at least they have it. The restaurant has a tentlike lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles. Very good quality, pleasant open air magnetosphere.

Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close. This temple has been usurped by thugs who sponsor this restaurant. Avoid on ethical grounds. No other heritage Indian temple has a restaurant in its courtyard!

Splurge[edit] [add listing]

Varuna, +91 542 250-300. And Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine. The Taj is excellent as usual. edit

Radisson Hotel, The Mall Cantonment, Varanasi 221002. Hotel Clarks, The Mall, Varanasi 221002.
edit

edit

Drink[edit] [add listing]

Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.

Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major center of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. It can be quite intoxicating.

Thandai is cool milk based drink made with pistachios, almonds and kesar and topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without. Many Tandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.

Sleep[edit] [add listing]

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats. This is where most foreigners hang out - and with good reason. In addition to the ghats and river, Varanasi's most famous temples and main market are all located in this area. Another choice is Sarnath, about 8 km from Varanasi. It is a little removed from 'the action' but much safer and calmer than Varanasi. Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. Technically, it is not free. The boat will take you half-way along the river and then let the boat-load of passengers know that for the second-half there is a fee of 60 rupees per person. Those who do not want to continue can get out of the boat and walk back to their lodging. Beware that Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan of A/C is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Budget[edit] [add listing]

Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, +919936438706. A hotel spanned over 200 year old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water. edit

Lord Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, +919450870727. Just behind Vishnu Rest House. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. Close to Vishnu rest house amenities and bigger rooms with peaceful place to stay. The rooms are with power backup and hot water. edit

Mishra Guest House, Ck 8/178 Garwasi tolla Gaumath Varanasi (Near Manikarnika Ghat also called Burning Ghat), +91 542 240 1143. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night Free. Rs 150 - 950. edit

Buest Guest House, K 54/84 DARANAGAR, Varanasi 221 001 (near Mritunjai Mahadev Temple), +91 964 800 0010, e-mail: rajapayinglodge@gmail.com. Property is situated right in the centre of the old town. Yoga courses are available by Yog Guru. Rs 150 - 1500. edit

Ganga Fuji Home (between Man Mandeer Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat). Some rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have A/C and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night. Rs 350 - 990. edit

Groovy Ganges Guesthouse (

), B2/225, B-6-A, Bhadaini (in

Bhadaini neighborhood near Assi Ghat), +91 993 618 0896, fax: (001)206.984.1165, e-mail: info@groovyganges.org. Check-in: whenever, check-out: no hurry. Live in an Indian home with an Indian family. Unlimited broadband internet access comes with every room, making this an ideal place for long-term students, researchers, and activists wanting to integrate into local culture. Boiled water used for all cooking. Rs 3000/week. edit

Hotel River View, a couple ghats north of Panchganga Ghat (Walk north from Dasaswamedh Ghat for about 15 minutes, and follow the numerous blue and white painted signs that begin to appear). Rs 100 - 250. edit

Maa Vaishno Guest House (

), B 5/188 (Shivala Ghat), +91 938 917

8569, e-mail: vermadinesh81@gmail.com. Check-in: 24hr, check-out: 12-noon.Family run guesthouse situated two minutes from the Shivala Ghat. A very short walking distance to the burning ghats but far enough away to avoid smoke and smell. 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower and view of the Ganga. Roof top restaurant, sunrise & sun set from roof & room. Broadband internet

(paid), laundry, train, bus and air ticket arrangement and other travel services available. Pickup services advertised, but may or may not be possible. Rs 300 - 500. edit

Maruti Guest House (

), Sahodarbir (near Assi Ghat), +91 231

2261. Friendly family run guest house with clean well lit rooms. There is a roof top garden and restaurant where fresh home made food is served. Power backup for the rooms and hot showers are available as well as broadband Internet access. The owner of the guest house, Dr. V.N. Tripathi, gives Yoga and meditation lessons upon request. Rs 50 - 400. edit

Shiva Kashi Guest House, D22/4 Chausatti Ghat (very near Sita G H), +91 923 551 2294. Check-out: 12.00 noon. Very clean, well-decorated, quiet guest house. Pleasant and helpful staff. Rooms have windows, are light and airy. Some have great balconies. Hot water morning and evening. Western toilets. Great value. Rs 250 - 400. edit

Monu Family Paying Guest House, D8/4 Kalika Gali, Varanasi (Near Golden Temple), +91 542 240 0908, e-mail: monufamilyguesthouse@gmail.com. Checkin:13:00, check-out: 11:00. Rooms are available with attach bathroom, western loo, hot and cold shower and free wifi internet access. Music, cookery and language courses are available in house. Rs 400 - 900 (plus Rs 500 for AC). edit

Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel (

), +91 542-

2224951,2223831. Rooms with Air-Conditioner and Hotwater and 24 hour Restaurant available. The facilities include inhouse Laundry, Doctor(on call), Full Travels & Sightseeing faciliy, Acceptability of Credit Cards, Generator Backup, Parking, Internet. Rs 315 - 1895. edit

Sahi Riverview Guest House (on Assi Ghat, next to Harmony Book Shop). This place is very clean, quiet, and recommended. Newly opened, the guest house has the most fascinating Ganges views and the exotic sunrise from its balconies, rooms and terrace. All rooms have 24 hrs hot water with attached bathrooms. Rs 200. edit

Shanti Guesthouse. There are several hotels near the ghats that have taken the name Shanti after the original's good reputation. The original is a clean but very basic building with several floors of windowless rooms (cooler and safer than ones with exterior windows). There is a dorm on the roof. The rooftop cafe offers money changing, internet access, and a view of the Burning Ghats. The travel agent in the rooftop bar is

reported to overcharge. The cafe's food is priced Rs 40-100. Fans are run on generator during power outages, but not A/C. Double fan room Rs200. edit

Shanti Rest House, B. 4/30, Hanuman Ghat, +91 9236848106. Check-out: 10am. A knockoff of Shanti Guesthouse near Hanuman Ghat. Rickshaw drivers from the train station will try and bring you here. Plain rooms from 250 rupees, 50rs fee for wifi use. Rude and pushy staff. 250+. edit

Sita Guest House, Chausatti Ghat (on the banks of the ganges next to the main ghats), +91 542 2450061 or 3251088, e-mail: sitaguesthouse@yahoo.com. The hotel is right on the river at Chausatti Ghat and a short walking distance to the burning ghats but far enough away to avoid smoke and smell. Rooms are reasonably clean, somewhat small and most have a view over the river. Supposedly hot water in every room, the hotel also has a generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi but this often doesn't cover the A/C. Roof top restaurant (see Eat section). A/C double room 1500 Rs. edit

Tiwari Lodge, B-1/243-A, Assi Ghat (Assi Crossing, accross the street from Hotel Haifa), +91 2315129. Check-out: negotiable. Rs 100 - 150. edit, is right after Assi crossingclose to Assi Ghat. It is run by a Brahmin, and has its own small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards, do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Upstairs rooms are with shared bath Rs 100/single. Ensuite will be Rs 150, with long term rates negotiable. Bring your sheets and towel. Door locked midnight to 6AM.

Golden Lodge, D. 8/35, Kalika Gali (just around the corner from Monu Family House, can be difficult to find, but people working the market will be able to show you ), +91 542-2398788, e-mail: goldenvaranasi@gmail.com. Check-out: noon. Tucked away in the alleyways, this guest house has astoundingly cheap rates (20% discount) in the low season and friendly staff. 24 hour internet and refreshments available, restaurant on site. Rooms range from a single bed with a fan to a triple en-suite with AC. Rs 125 1200. edit

Mid-range[edit] [add listing]

Hotel New Temple's Town, 53, Patel Nagar, Cantonment (close to Varanasi Railway Station), +91-542-2507733, +91-542-2507735, email:reservation.newtemplestown@gmail.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon.
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Hotel Malti, Vidyapeeth, +91 542 356844 351395. Kautilya Society residence (

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), D-20/21 Munshi Ghat, +91-542-2452179;

+91-542-2455139, e-mail: info@kautilyasociety.com. :Located on the banks of the River Ganga in the centre of the old city, it is not a Hotel but the study centre of an NGO that supports responsible development through dialogue and also offers rooms for students and scholars. The atmosphere of Ram Bhavan, its residency, remains faithful to the simple comforts of an Indian home with a splash of colour and colonial teak furniture. In accordance with the Indian law, all residing guests must become members of the Society; annual membership is INR 300 and life member ship is INR 1000. These donations cover half board (INR 200 per day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Long term guests can enjoy special discounts. donations for stay range between INR350 to INR 2000. edit

Diamond Hotel, Bhelupur,Varanasi, 221010, (Most centrally located downtown hotel. Walking distance from Ganga Ghat, very close to the major temples, Banaras Hindu University, and the saree market. Ideally located for business, tourism and pilgrimage. 5 Kms from Ramnagar fort & 12 Kms from Sarnath.), +91 0542 2276696, fax: +91 0542 2276703, e-mail: diamotel@hotel-diamond.com. Check-out: 12 noon. At Diamond Hotel, centrally air conditioned rooms extend a warm and hospitable staying experience. The Hotel offers a range of options for guests interested in arranging conferences, seminars, parties and get-togethers indoor and outdoors for up to 400 people.Rs 2000 5000. edit

Splurge[edit] [add listing]

Nadesar Palace, The Taj Hotels, Nadesar, +91 542 6660002-06. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. The building of the hotel used to be the residence of Mr. Davis, the Magistrate of Benares, in January of 1799. The same palace was once taken over by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh during his rule between 1889-1931. $400 and up. edit

The Gateway Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds, +91 542 250 3001, email: gateway.varanasi@tajhotels.com. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. $150 and up; inquire about off-season discounts. edit

Radisson, The Mall, Cantonment, +91 542 250 1515. Hotel Surya, The Mall Cantonment, +91 542 2508466.

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Hotel Ramada Plaza JHV, The Mall Cantonment, +91 542 2510000.
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Stay safe[edit]
Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a lamp; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark, because of their broken paving stones and cows common. Women especially need to dress conservatively and to be careful. Even taking precautions, expect to have the odd local young man try to quickly grope you and run away. Respond aggressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible. Rickshaw/taxi scams are a norm in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more resepctable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commission charging hostel. As you approach Manikarnika Ghat you will probably be ushered toward a plain concrete building to view the funeral pyres. The person that leads you there will say that he is a volunteer at the hospice center and will tell you how he takes care of poor people that don't have enough money to buy wood for their funerary burning. He'll tell you that wood costs 300 rupees per kilogram (it's actually closer to 5 rupees per kilogram) and that most foreigners donate between 5 and 10 kilograms of wood to his center, at which point he'll ask for a donation from you. If it isn't obvious already, this is a scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating at the time.

Respect[edit]

Priest praying to a totally hairless monkey in the Hanuman Monkey temple

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists traipsing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance, most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local riff raff object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph ! Call the police if necessary. also as this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes/sandals at every point. So wear a flip flop which is easy to take off.

Connect[edit] [add listing]

BSNL, Reliance,Idea, and Airtel are the most popular cell phone services in the region. If you bring your GSM cellphone from home, you can get a cheap connection and cash card from Idea or Airtel from anywhere in India and call within India and abroad. Internet is widely available, especially in the lanes between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat. Price is usually Rs 20-30/hour. Several branches of Iway BROADBAND (Rs.15-20) are sprinkled around town as well. Calling abroad is cheap from Iway branches. Nowadays, it is not so easy to get a new sim card because of security reasons. Normally the shopkeeper will ask for identity as well as address proof for the sim card. He will ask for photograph also which is the standard procedure.

Before giving access to internet, shopkeeper will ask for Identity proof and he will note down your details. In some cases, he will take a photostate copy of your identity proof and will keep photostate copy with him. This is as per the instructions of authorities.

Go next[edit]

Gaya - One of the most sacred places to do Pind Dan (funeral offerings for the benefit of the soul of the deceased).

Sarnath - One of the most sacred places for Buddhists, known as the place where Lord Buddha propagated buddhism. Sarnath contains many stupas which are in good condition. I also has a zoo worth seeing.

Ramnagar Fort - historical royal residence and museum across the Ganges. Chunar Fort - ruins of battlements and ancient settlement 15 miles from Varanasi. Jaunpur - Jaunpur district is located to the northwest of the district of Varanasi. Jaunpur historically known as Sheeraz-e-Hind having its historical dates from 1359, when the city was founded by the Sultan of Delhi Feroz Shah Tughlaq and named in memory of his cousin, Muhammad bin Tughluq, whose given name was Jauna Khan.

Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.

Nepal - buses travel to the Nepali border where you can transfer to Kathmandu and Chitwan buses. Most buses go via Gorakhpur and can take 812 hours, or there are daily flights. There are a number of travel agents in Varanasi which will sell you tourist/AC buses to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Avoid these services (especially the operator Paul Travels) because they are not actually tourist buses. Instead, they are actually the local, public buses and once you get across the Nepal border, they will try to get more money from you.