0

Welcome to the Attire Club!

Dear elegantologist,

It might sound strange to be called an elegantologist, as many people do not know what that word actually means. Thats because this word doesnt actually exist. It was invented by French novelist and writer Honor de Balzac, who wanted to create a term to describe a man who is interested in elegant living.

And, since you are reading this letter, you are an elegantologist. Elegance, we believe, does not reside only in clothes and accessories; it is something that can be part of any aspect of your life. This is the reason why we 1

created the Attire Club concept: to deliver a full experience to the modern gentleman. Being a Man (with an intentional capital m) is a choice and can be easily cultivated. Being a Man means having attitude and attitude comes from within. If you feel good, you look good. And sometimes, looking good can make you feel good.

In our vision, having a sense of style does not mean abiding to a standard you dont believe in, but expressing and developing your own way. Style, however you want to define it, is something personal and not something that is dictated. Style is the way you do things, not the way someone else does them. This is why our concept is to offer you style guides and fashion inspiration that are general and can be applied to any taste and way of life. The mens fashion world needs a reboot and while we are launching the new wave, its up to all of us to contribute: from the beginners to the experts, from those who can spend a little to those who can spend fortunes, and from the worker to the musician. Wherever you are in life, if 2

you believe that elegance comes from within and that style is an expression of originality, you are part of the Attire Club.

At the beginning of the 21st century, we cant deny that things are not connected: everything in life is connected to something. Just imagine: the way you sleep can affect your mood and posture, which is why you should sleep in the right conditions; the music you listen to or movies you watch influence your mood and therefore, your relations with others. These are the things we like to call metafashion. Any act that you do before or after dressing up, whether its taking a shower or taking a walk: thats metafashion.

The reason someone should look their best, given that real beauty comes from the inside, is because looking well does not only make you feel good, but the way you look is an expression of who you are. Therefore, using clothes as a mean of expression will place you in a state of 3

harmony with yourself. The way we look is the first thing someone sees when they first meet us. Your look is a way of talking without actually speaking.

In the modern world, style can be found anywhere and can be expressed through everything, which is why we are fans of finding new ways to incorporate beauty in our lives, whether these are technology and devices, art forms or even astronomy and sports. The time has come to build a new culture of style: one that matches the new world we live in! Welcome aboard!

Fraquoh and Franchomme

General style rules

A mans wardrobe needs to be similar to a symphonic orchestra. Every element needs to have a function and the conductor must know with precision when and how to make use of it in order to express himself the best and get the best effect. This is why you need to learn the characteristics, we will begin with the basic ones, any piece of clothing must have. These are: shape, cut and fabric. For example, the right shape means that dress shirt should look like a dress shirt, and not like a sack. Sacks are supposed to looks like sacks, not clothes. The cut refers to the way the piece is constructed. You will notice the difference between a carefully-crafted piece and one that is not cut very well when you wear it. Wellcut clothes frame your body better and align with the wearers natural shape. 5

Thirdly, we will break down fabrics just a little. The fabrics you are wearing should be natural, unless they have a purpose that is best fulfilled by synthetic fibers (this case usually appears in the case of sports gear). Good fabrics make the wearer feel comfortable and should be in a way a second skin. Its not great to get itches, irritations and even to get electrocuted by your own clothes. Being comfortable will deeply impact the way you feel and see the world around you. There are many types of fabrics and usually they go best with different occasions. Smooth, fine fabrics are perfect for formal occasions, while stronger, more versatile fabrics, such as cotton are more appropriate for casual settings. When you are reconstructing your wardrobe, you should keep in mind that you need to have clothes for all occasions: its useless to have a lot of tuxedos and formal suits if you dont have anything to wear when need to go in the woods.

Accessories are a great way to express who you are, and to add a twist to any outfit. Its useful to have ties, bow ties, cufflinks, pocket squares, watches and other pieces in your wardrobe. Accessories can really make or break an outfit, regardless if its formal or casual, so make sure to always wear the appropriate ones. If you are not sure, just say no. You dont have to have all types of accessories, simply choose what types you like and feel that represent yourself, but we recommend that you get out of your comfort zone every so often and try something new.

P ATTERNS , PRINTS AND TEXTURES

If the old world thought of patterns, prints and textures as something reserved for women, that is not the case anymore. If some men find that wearing patterns is quite a challenge (more mentally than physically), there is one question that keeps on rising: How to mix striped shirts with striped ties? It is really important to know the rule of how to properly do this, as otherwise you risk looking like an optical 7

illusion! Heres how its done: If one piece comes in thick stripes, the other one must come in thin stripes and the other way around! This rule also applies for any other pattern: a bold, rough pattern goes with a soft, smaller one! You can mute down a pattern by adding a piece in a neutral color over it. For example, a floral shirt can be toned down with a brown vest. If you want to stand out by wearing patterns, you can choose patterns that use contrasting colors like blue and orange, but if you dont want to stand out because of your patterns, choose a more subtle one: a pattern made out of colors that are close to each other on the color wheel, about which you can read in the next chapter.

H OW TO LAYER CLOTHES
Layering your clothing is a great way to ensure your comfort and style when it comes to both everyday casual outfits and formal wear. We have put together a few tips you can follow when you are putting an outfit together.

In our opinion, having multiple layers of clothing is something that really improves your appearance, as adding layers of different clothes creates visual interest. So, if you want to give a layered outfit a shot, here are a few guidelines you can follow: 1. Establish the main piece and color. When it comes to putting any outfit together, you have to have a main piece that will be star. All other pieces should be supporting the main actor. Usually the main piece is something in a bold color, bold pattern or print. Make sure you dont wear two main pieces, it will look unbalanced. After you have established the main piece, look for other pieces that go with it, whether its in terms of color, shape, pattern or any other factor. Its all about finding the connection! 2. The first layers should be the thinnest layer. Go from thin to thick: start with a shirt, add a vest and only then the jacket. This seems obvious, but we have seen people not following this rule. Why this is important is because, not only it establishes an organic depth of field in the outfit you are creating, but it also helps you keep your body at a proper temperature. A vest and a jacket are 9

better than just a big sweater; they keep your body at a right temperature better. Also, if you get too hot, you can take one layer off and still look well. 3. No matter how many layers you have on you, comfort is the rule. Even if you have two layers or seven (what would that look like though?), you should be comfortable. Not being able to move or feeling restrained is something that needs to be remedied immediately. 4. Each layer should go on its own. We want you to wear fine pieces that are strong in their own, but go great together as well. Also, each layer should have its function. 5. Keep the patterns in a line. If you decide to wear patterns, place them gradually on your body. Dont mix them at random or have neutrals between them. Think of the outfit as of an in-depth gradient. Whether you go from the outside to the inside or the other way around, you should go gradually from one pattern to the other. 6. Do accessories count as layers too? We can debate this, but we think accessories can also be considered 10

layers to a certain regard. Add a nice watch and a nice pair of shoes a great pair of socks, and dont leave any part of your body unattended. Accessories that count as layers are also scarves or belts. 7. Dont use clothes to hide parts of your body you dont like. As we said, make sure each piece is great in its own way; and emphasizes the good parts rather than camouflaging the not-so-good-ones. The difference is that if you know you are hiding something, you will be aware of it, rather than being happy that you are pointing out the good parts!

11

A look at colors
You dont need to be a designer or a professional stylist to learn a few basic rules when it comes to choosing the colors of your clothes! Paying attention to a few details will change the way you see clothes forever. First of all, what you need to know is that there are colors that are called "neutrals" which basically go with any other color. Neutral colors are: black, white, beige, navy, gray, brown and khaki. The only two neutral colors that go together are black and white. Generally, these colors can be matched with any other colors: red, orange, blue, teal, yellow etc., its up to you!! When it comes to accessorizing, you need to know that gold and silver are both neutrals, so they can be worn together! Its not the 70s anymore! Going more in-depth, we can talk about how you can make colors go together! First of all, you might want to wear a maximum of three colors. If you wear more, you 12

might be hard on the eye, and if you only wear one, you might look boring. If you choose to wear three colors, heres how you can do it:

Choose a color as your most important color. This color will occupy the largest area of your outfit. Choose a second and a third color. The third color is usually a color which contrasts more with the primary and secondary colors, and therefore, it should be used with moderation. Heres how to find out which color goes with which: You can make an analog color combination: analog colors are colors that are near one from the other on the color wheel (picture). For example, red and orange.

13

 You can make use of complementary colors. Complementary colors are colors that are on opposite sides one from the other on the color wheel, for example yellow and violet. Make use of a split complementary colors scheme. Split complementary is a color and the analog colors to its complement color. Using split complementary colors can 14

give you an outfit with a high degree of contrast, yet still not as extreme as a real complementary color would. For example yellow, violet and blue are split complementary colors. Another way to combine colors is to use triad colors. Triad colors are three hues equidistant on the color wheel. When you want an outfit that is colorful and still balanced, a triad color scheme might be the way to go. For example, blue, violet and yellow are triad colors.

15

C HOOSING THE COLORS OF YOUR CLOTHES

ACCORDING TO YOUR SKIN TONE

Have you ever wondered what colors go best with your skin tone? Of course, this is a thing that is personal and relative, as the best clothes for you are the ones you like. But some colors/shades of colors go better with different skin tones. The colors we wear can make us look tan or pale. Colors can help hide our flaws or make them more noticeable. Of course, we encourage you to wear the clothes you like, because with the right attitude, you can make anything work. Our tips are just a little orientation in case you dont actually know what goes best and want to take your skin tone as reference. Choosing the colors of your clothes according to your skin tone can be helpful when you dont know what to wear or want to try something new. First of all, what you need to do is to determine your skin tone. There are more ways to describe skin tones. A first

16

classification is warm - cool and sometimes you will find neutral. Its important to keep in mind that anybody can be a neutral, regardless of the color of your skin. A neutral person is a person on whom most colors look well. Some people are like that, others are not. This being said, we need to say that neutral as a term does not refer to a standard of color to which all other colors relate to.

Next, you need to notice whether you have a warm or a cool skin tone. The most recommended trick is to put a golden jewel or fabric next to your skin and then a silver one and see which one looks best. If gold flattens your skin tone, then you probably are a warm type, and if silver flattens your skin tone, you probably have a cool skin tone. This however, can be a little hard to establish.

17

Also, you can check your veins: If theyre blue, then youre a cool skin tone. If theyre green, and youve got yellow undertones, then you a warm skin tone. Warm toned skin tends to have a golden or apricot undertone. People with this skin tone tend to have hair with hints of orange, yellow, red or gold. The eye color tends to be amber, dark brown, hazel, or green. Cool skin tones are the most common skin tones to have, and the easiest to dress. Cool toned skin has a pink or rosy undertone. Cool tones hair often contains blue, blue-violet, silver, drab, and ash undertones. The eye color tends to be light blue, gray-green, blue-green, turquoise, gray-blue, black or cool brown.

There are several scales in the scientific world on which you can relate, such as the Fitzpatrick scale, which you can see in the picture.

18

This scale puts all skin tones into 6 large categories, ranging from pale to dark. Number one is very light, while number six is the darkest.

Another classification, going deeper than just warm-cool is spring-summer-autumn-winter. The difference between the Fitzpatrick scale and the season scale is that the seasons scale does not measure how dark or pale you are, it is based on your undertones and establishes if you are a warm type or a cool type. Summer and winter are cool skin tones, while spring and autumn are warm ones. We will break each down and note what colors flatter each type best. 19

First of all, there are a few colors that go with all skin tones: bright red, pale pink, eggplant and teal.

Now, lets get to the seasons: Summer is one of the two cool tones. Summer tones have blue, red or pink undertones. If you are a summer tone, you should wear lilacs and pale blues and should choose pastels and soft neutrals with rose undertones. Summers differ from Winters in that their skin tends to contrast gently with their hair and eye color, and therefore seem softer and less intense. This is why Summers should wear softer colors. Cool-toned people can pull off white, ruby, sapphire and aquatic blues very well. Generally, cool tones go better with the blue half of the spectrum. Their metal colors are silver and white gold. Winter is the second cool tone. Winters have blue, red or pink undertones. Their skin can be pale white, olive (Mediterranean or Asian), or dark (Black). A person who is a Winter should wear colors that have blue undertones. 20

Winters should wear colors that are sharp for example stark whites, black, navy blue, red with pink undertones. Silver and grey work good on Winters as well. Winters differ from Summers in that their skin tends to contrast dramatically with their hair and eye color, and therefore seem more intense, so they can wear clothes with high contrasts. Best metals for winters are silver or platinum. Spring is one of the two warm skin tones. Springs usually have golden undertones and are usually creamy white or peach. Spring people generally have straw-colored or strawberry red hair, freckles, rosy cheeks, and blue or green eyes. The main difference between Spring and Autumn color palette is that the Springs colors are based on yellow, in contrast with Autumns colors which are based on deep gold. This is why Springs should wear colors that have yellow undertones. Springs look best in warm orange-based colors like peach, ochre, and coral in chalky shades. Autumn is the second warm type. Autumn types have golden, warm or yellow undertones. Autumns should wear colors that have yellow undertones. Usually, the 21

autumn colors are warm, soft, and deep. Some of the Autumn colors are coffee, caramel, beige, tomato red, and green. Autumns should avoid colors with blue tones, like navy or indigo. Warm skin tones go great with yellow too! Also, colors like olive, moss or jade enhance your beauty. Warm tones go better with the yellow half of the spectrum. For autumns, in terms of metals, gold, bronze or copper work best. In case this is a little much, we can make it shorter by saying that light skin tones look better in dark colors, medium skin tones look best with the primary colors and darker skin tones pull off whites and pale colors quite well.

22

The Suit
Every man needs to have at least one suit! One suit is better than no suit! The male suit is the one piece of clothing that has been around for a very long time and remained unchanged. A good suit can go a long way and you can wear it at practically any occasion needed! A fine tailored suit can be worn at a job interview, at work, at the theater, when going out or wherever you can think of! It can also be broken down into pieces: one day you might want to wear just the jacket, or the pants! If you decide to get one suit, it does not necessarily need to be a black suit; it can be a more casual looking suit, like blue, grey or beige. We recommend that unless you have a ton of suits, you should keep it in a neutral color, which you can mix with a colorful shirt or tie or both! When you buy a suit, you might want to choose a good fabric, even though you might find it to be more expensive. Wool is the best fabric out there, but if you cant afford a wool one, you can choose another fabric, as 23

long as you keep in mind that there are other important factors that make a good suit. A right suit needs to have proper sleeves. Try it on and let your arms hang on your sides, your sleeves should end where your hand meets your wrist. The sleeves of the shirt should be one-quarter longer than the jacket ones. When it comes to buttons, we can say that you might want to choose a one or two-button jacket. One-button jackets fit better on men with a slimmer physique. When it comes to the pants, try putting a finger in your pants, if you can do that, your pants are ok. Not more fingers, not less! You can rarely go wrong with a white shirt or a shirt with small stripes or checkers. Also, your tie should go with your shirt, they must not necessarily match. When it comes to maintaining a suit, dry clean it as infrequently as possible. This will maximize the preservation of the fabrics strength. If you need, have it 24

professionally steam-pressed or, and hang it in the shower with the door closed in case of emergency.

E SSENTIAL SUIT RULES

1. The width of your lapel should be the same size as the width of your tie. While you might not be able to get them exactly the same size, you can approximate and have them rather similar. This will make your look more balanced and harmonious, compared to what it would look like if your tie was a lot wider or narrower than your lapel. Generally, thin lapels are more modern, while wider lapels are more classic. This being said, the best way to choose your tie is to make it proportionate to your whole body. 2. Choosing to wear a pocket square is a great idea which we encourage. However, a pocket square should not match your tie in either fabric or tie. Wearing a pocket square is a great idea to funk out an outfit, even a conservative one, and still look serious and professional.

25

3. The number one thing you should make sure looks well when you are trying a suit on, are the shoulders. If they do not match your shoulders well and stay bulky or are too tight, you need to change the jacket. 4. When you keep your jacket buttoned, you should be able to slip your hand between your jacket and your chest. It should feel snug, but it should also have some room to move. 5. When you are sitting down, always unbutton your suit. Always, in any situation, regardless if the occasion is causal or formal, do not sit down with your suit buttoned. Keeping it unbuttoned, you risk ruining it. 6. If you wish to have a more casual, youthful look, pick out a single-button peak-lapel jacket. These jackets really look different from other types of jackets and can give you a whole different look. 7. In case you are wearing a vest, leave the lowest button open. The same rule applies to the jacket as well. This being said, the rule is more flexible when it comes to vests. Some men button all their buttons and still pull a 26

great look off. A vest is also very practical and functional, as it can add a layer of warmth to your outfit and keep you warm on cooler days. 8. The cuffs of your shirt sleeves should be exposed only about 1/2 inch / 1,30 cm. For a more balanced, elegant look, match the visible cuff to the amount of visible collar from the back of your neck. 9. Generally, your tie should be darker than the dress shirt you are wearing. However, if you break this rule consciously, we encourage you to do so. 10. Your jacket should be long enough to cover your zipper and tush. Checking this is also a good way to determine if a jacket fits well. 11. Your pants should begin at your waist and not at your hips. Also, if your pants are having pleats, you should not go for more than one. 12. Your shoes and belt should always match. And in this case, we really mean they should be the same color.

27

13. In general, suits are made out of wool. Of course, there are exceptions and sometimes they are of wool mixed with cashmere. Sometimes suits are made just out of cashmere. But we would recommend going with the wool. 14. To test a suits strength, you need to take a piece of cloth and squeeze it. If it bounces back quickly and with little wrinkles, then it means its a good quality. If it has structure, then its also a good sign. Tailors call this having guts. Suits also have a super number. The super number is an indicator of the suits fineness. If the number is high, the fabric is thinner and better. Rule: the bigger the number, the smoother and silkier the cloth. Some suits have for example 150. If you find a suit that has 180, its very good (but it will also be expensive). 15. Make sure your pants cover half of your shoes.

28

H OW YOUR SHIRTS SHOULD FIT

The button-up shirt is a must-have in any mans wardrobe. A good shirt has the following characteristics: it is simple, functional, and versatile and gives any man an edge! This being said, many men have trouble choosing the right shirts for themselves, but we want to bring some light This Simon + Simon shirt is a good on the matter and spread tight, but not too loose. the thick clouds of confusion. We have broken the guide down into sections, so that you can memorize it better and make the best of it! Well start with the cut and end with general tips and tricks!

example of how a shirt should fit: not too

29

Cut

Traditional fit shirts are usually cut more like a square, or

a box if you will, and are rather standard-looking.

Regular fit shirts are usually similar to traditional fit shirts,

just that the sides are more tapered, making them frame your body better.

Slim fit shirts are usually tailored in the chest, waist and
arms for a leaner, sharper look. This has nothing to do with being slim as opposed to large. It simply means that is it very tailored on your silhouette. There are also extra slim shirts, which are a more extreme version of slim fit shirts. These are the main types of cuts, and you will sometimes find them under another terminology, but the concept is basically the same.

30

Length and sizes Shirts are usually supposed to be tucked in your pants, so the lower part wont be visible most time. of It the is

supposed to be long enough so that it doesnt come out of your pants when you move, but it should be short enough so that it does not feel like a second pair of pants. If you decide on wearing a more casual shirt and keep it untucked, it should not go lower than the bottom part of your pants zipper. The problem with shirts is that most guys buy shirts that are made in standard sizes, thought to fit the majority of the population. This can be an issue, as if a shirt is tailored to fit a very wide range of men, it means that it 31

does not fit almost anyone perfectly and we are striving for perfection!

Next, we focus on what you should know about the body, the waist, the sleeves, the neck, the collar and the pockets of a shirt. Once you get what it is you should be looking for, the search for the right shirt will be done from instinct.

Body A good shirt should frame your body but it should not be skin tight. To see if its too loose or too tight, try pinching your shirt at any point you wish. You should be able to pin about 1-3 inches / 2,5- 7,6 cm of fabric from your shirt. If you can pull more, it means that your shirt might be just too big, while anything tighter might make you very uncomfortable when pinching.

32

The armholes should be as high as they can go, but they should not cut into your armpit or cause any discomfort. Also, try to lift your arms in order to test the armholes. You need to be able to make any movement in a shirt! When it comes to the shoulders, the seams of the shoulder should simply hug your shoulders and lay at the corner of your shoulder joint.

Waist A lot of shirts are too full around the waist, so make sure that when you sit down you dont feel any discomfort or that the fabric doesnt simply add around in a bulky, unpleasant matter. If you cant find a shirt that meets all these criteria, you can always buy one that is a little bigger and have a tailor change it a little, according to your body.

33

Sleeves Proper sleeves should be slim, so but shouldnt that you they be avoid billowing,

skin tight either. Try testing the tightness of a shirt by bending your arm. If
A shirt that fits well needs to fit well on all levels.

you feel like

the shirt is going to crack, then you are wearing a shirt that is too tight. In terms of length, the cuff is supposed to end 1 inch / 2,5 cm past your wrist or where your wrist meets your palm. Make sure that you cant pinch more than 1 inch / 2,5 cm of fabric near the cuff when your arms are hanging. This extra fabric is useful because it allows you 34

to bend your arms comfortably. The cuff should be tight enough not to move down your hand, but you should still be able to feel comfortable.

Neck and collar When your shirt is

buttoned all the way to the top, there should be enough space for you to slip your index and middle fingers between your neck and the collar. This should and be you comfortable

should not feel that your fingers are being pressed tightly against your neck. Remember that if the collar fits this way before you wash it, it might be too small for your neck, as shirt collars tend to shrink about 1/2 inch / 1,27 cm after washing. This is why you should go up half an

35

inch in size. A shirt that is too tight from the start will not be wearable. Normally, the collars size should be proportionate to the size of the wearers head. A good collar should be big enough to make proper room for a tie. Some shirts have smaller collars, but these are thought to be worn with similarly tailored suits, which play with proportions.

Pockets When it comes to pockets, look at their number! Guess what: Zero is the right way to go! A good dress shirt should have no pockets! Shirts that have only one pocket are considered just a little more formal than those that have two pockets. Shirts that are supposed to be worn with a vest or with suspenders should have no pockets. If they do, your chest might look a little bulky, and not in a good way! Please note that shirts with pockets are not work-appropriate, they are for extremely casual occasions only! The only way pockets on a shirt can be elegant is 36

when they have a function and a purpose (for example military mens shirts sometimes have pockets, air pilots also have shirts with pockets and so on). Having a well-fitted shirt is very important, regardless of your size or body frame. Also, as an additional tip, if you want your shirts to last longer, you should opt for the right undershirt! Doing so, you will be able to save a lot of money and time! You should also know that most dress shirts are usually sold by neck size and sleeve length. To get the best results, make sure that the shirt you are wearing is properly ironed! Most guys will need to have their shirts modified by a tailor in one way or another, but this is definitely worth it, as good shirt can improve your look by a lot and go a long way in whats regarding your attitude and feelings about yourself! A right-fitting shirt will make you feel like youre the boss!

37

P ANTS PLANET
Going a little lower, we will continue by looking at some short tips on how your pants should fit.

Try to buy pants that fit you right from the start! It is not recommended to alter pants because after tailoring them, they might not resemble the original pants. Your pant size is the same as your waist size. So, if you have a 35" waist, you are a 35! The crotch needs to be where your crotch is, not lower and not higher (if thats possible). One pleat at the bottom is enough. None is alright too, for more casual and modern pants! Your socks are should not show when you are walking. Men should wear their pants slightly above or under their hips. Wearing pants lower normally conveys a younger and more modern feel while wearing them too high looks like... (We couldnt find the right word)! 38

 When it comes to buttons or zippers, theres not much to say except that they need to work!

T HE BUTTONS RULE
Many men ask the question regarding the buttons of a suit jacket: should you unbutton, one button or two, what is the right way to go? It seems that the rule of having an open button first came to be around in the 1900s in England. At that time, suits were quite new, so their structure was not as defined as it is today. Apparently, King Edward VII was rather a larger guy and couldnt close all the buttons of his jacket, so he left the lower button open. Of course, everyone started to follow the trend of the king; not so much because they thought it was trendy, but because they didnt want to offend him. This fashion became later incorporated in the way suits were built, so its not just a fad to follow this

39

rule, its a way to make sure that the suit you bought looks its best. Todays suits are created with the idea in mind that when having a button left open, it ensures proper fit and drape of the jacket. Before explaining which buttons you need to open depending on the type of jacket you are wearing, we need to remind you that the suit needs to be buttoned when you stand, and completely unbuttoned when you sit. So, here are the types of jackets there are and the way you should consider to open/close your buttons.

40

One button jackets

A one button jacket

One button jackets are derived from tuxedos and give you a more elegant feel. They emphasize your shoulders, but because of the low positioning of the button, they also draw attention your waist. The rule regarding these jackets is easy: when standing close it, and unfasten the button when sitting down. One button, one option. 41

Two button jackets

A two button jacket

Jackets with two buttons are very wide-spread and are very modern. When you are wearing a two button jacket, you should keep the upper button fastened, while the lower button should remain unbuttoned.

42

Three button jackets

A three button jacket

When it comes to three button suits, you have more options. You can button the two upper buttons and leave the lower one unfastened. On suits that have a flat lapel, it generally looks better to button the two upper buttons. But if the lapel has a softer roll that extends after the first button, you should only fasten the center button.

43

More than three buttons If you have a jacket that has more than three buttons, its probably because you are making a fashion statement. Many advisers would not recommend them, but we think theyre amazing. Jackets with more than three buttons are definitely for someone who is not afraid to stand out and draw attention, so if you dont want this, you should probably stick to a more classic jacket. However, if you choose to wear a multi-button jacket, you should leave the bottom button undone.

Double-breasted jackets All the jackets we mentioned until now are, of course, single-breasted jackets. When it comes to doublebreasted jackets, the rule is very simple: button all the buttons besides the bottom one. But this rule is also not mandatory. What we need to say about double-breasted jackets is that you need to pay attention to the button configuration. 44

Button configurations are, for example: 62, 61, 42, 41 etc. What this means is: the first number is the number of buttons the jacket has and the second number is the number of buttons that are buttoned. 42 is versatile and very elegant, 41 might magnify your midsection while 21 was fashionable around 30 years ago.

A double breasted jacket with the configuration 62

So, whatever you like, now you know the whole thing! The rules are actually easy to follow and make a big 45

impact. Now, if you want to break the rules, its up to you! Or, who knows, you might invent a new one.

46

The Tie
H OW TO CHOOSE A GOOD TIE
If there is one thing that is globally associated with men and style, that is the tie. The tie is the thing that confers man elegance. Its important to make the best of your ties because and wear them with pride. Ties can be an indicator of who you are and what your interests are, they can speak about your personality and convey messages you want to convey. This is why picking the right tie is probably one of the most important steps of wearing a tie!

Ties and fabrics When we are talking about ties and the fabrics they are made of, we need to talk about understanding the differences between the textures of ties. Most ties are 47

made of a printed or woven silk. A woven silk, as it has more texture, will usually be less formal, though satin is the most formal silk as it is the shiniest (dont forget, the shinier the fabric, the dressier it is)! Woven silk comes in lots of different variations, but the only alternative you really need to be aware of is grenadine, which is a thicker weave and comes in large and small knots. Then comes knitted silk, which is a yet chunkier texture. You will find it most in thin, squared-end ties. Then, besides silk, there is wool, linen and mixes of the two with silk. Although the weave may be somewhat finer than a knitted silk, for example, any wool or linen tie is more casual than any silk one, because of its matte texture. The same goes for madder. What you should keep in mind is that a silk mix is the best choice (the heavier and tighter the silk fabric is, the better), followed by cashmere and chunky wool.

48

Ties and collars Different collars are appropriate for different tie knot types, which is why you should be paying attention the collar of the shirt you are wearing in relation to the tie you want to put on. So, for example if you wear a shirt that has a spread collar, you should match it with a wider tie and a bigger knot. Button down collars and pointcollars usually go with any other tie knot type, although button-down collars look better with thinner ties and smaller knots.

Ties and size One thing that is really important when it comes to ties is the length of the tie: a tie should always hit right the line of your belt, not lower, not higher. Most ties are 57 inches long, that is about 145 cm. Going shorter or longer, you might have problems when tying the tie. In terms of width, we can say that the most modern ties today measures 2.5 inches, that is 6.3 cm. Ties that are 49

wider than that are seen as wide and ties that are narrower as seen as skinny. But, ties also need to match the size of your body: men with a larger body frame might want to wear wider ties, while men with thinner body frame might prefer to go with a skinny tie or a thinner one.

Ties and colors Choosing the color of your tie and making it match your suit and shirt might be tricky, but there are a few simple combinations you can keep in mind. If you want to go for more complex combos, you can check the chapter about colors. Its very important to know that you can wear a tie that has a pattern, like stripes with a shirt that has patterns.

50

Ties and tie bar Bar ties (also called tie clips) do not only fasten your tie, they also fasten your tie to the placket of your shirt! Also, what you need to know is that a bar tie must not be wider than your tie, thats a big no-no! Note that the tie clip is traditionally placed between the fourth and fifth button of the shirt placket, midway between the pectoral and abdominal muscles. In the end, we can say that there are more ways to wear a tie. You can tuck it, for example, between your third and fourth buttons (something like Frank Sinatra in From Here to Eternity).

H OW TO MATCH YOUR TIE TO YOUR SHIRT

When it comes to dressing up, even though mens fashion has really taken off lately, men have fewer options than women. Maybe its because men usually wear shirts and ties when they want to dress up, and the suit is an 51

outfit that can only go so far, compared to gowns and other womens clothes, for example. This is why wearing a shirt and tie that make a statement about yourself is very important. You can really express your personality through the tie and shirt you are wearing. Moreover, you can express it through the combination of tie and shirt you wear you choose to make.

Great ties by Peter Field

We have some guidelines for you, which are not unbreakable rules, but are sure to help. We want you to

52

create your own style, and not blindly follow some rules, invented by who? Accessories such as ties are a great way to be creative and not too ostentatious. Here are some short but useful tips you can follow to match your tie to your shirt and look great: 1. If you want a more conservative look, your tie should have at least one color the same as the shirt. 2. If you want to match patterns, you can do this, but the patterns should be in different sizes. 3. For a more formal and sophisticated look, you can go for a tie that is a solid, darker color. If you want to have a more relaxed or creative feel, you can wear a patterned tie or a more colorful one. 4. If you are in doubt about what shirt to wear, wear a solid-colored shirt. To play it safer, you can go for a white shirt, a light blue one or a dark one (such as brown) as they go with anything. If you dont want to be so safe,

53

you can mix colors using different color schemes we will link to lower. 5. A very colorful tie you dont want to draw attention to can be toned down with wearing a vest. 6. Certain fabrics complement each other, others dont. For example, a casual shirt wont go with a really fine silk tie, as it will be obvious that the tie is from a different world. Try to combine fabrics that complement each other: a cotton shirt goes with a wool tie for example. Dressier fabrics usually go together well. 7. Decide what is appropriate for the occasion: usually a solid color tie on a solid color shirt is for more formal settings, while patterned ties on solid colors go for casual work days and patterned ties on patterned shirts is the most casual combo. 8. Larger men go better with bigger ties, while thin men go best (visually) with thin or skinny ties.

54

C HOOSE THE BEST TIES FOR YOUR BODY AND

FACE TYPE

Whether you wear a tie at work, on a formal occasion or in any other place, there are a few things you need to know. We have already discussed how to choose the best tie. Its up to you what type of tie you choose, the fabric, the pattern etc., Now we want to discuss how to choose a tie according to your body. Of course, these are not unbreakable style rules, they are guidelines that will give you a step forward to an optimal look. What we are discussing today are your body type and your facial features. If you determine these two, you can choose the right knot, the right color and the right length and width of your ties.

55

Ties and body types Its very easy to determine what type of tie fits you best according to your body type. Men with average bodies are fitted best by average-size ties, both in terms of length and width. If you are a wider guy though, you should wear a wider tie, in order to keep a balance, while thinner men should wear thinner ties or even skinny ties. You will look your best if you keep the size of your tie proportional to your body.

56

When it comes to the length of your tie, you should know that ties come in different lengths too. Generally, average ties will do it, only very tall or very short men should go an extra mile finding a tie in another size. We dont want to give you numbers, because the best way to see if a tie is the proper length, you need to try it on. Even if in theory some ties go better than others, the way it looks on your body is the best indicator. Dont forget the rule we keep stressing: when wearing a tie, the ties tip should touch your waistline.

Ties and Facial Features Ties are not only to be picked according to your body type, they can be chosen according to your face too. We will first speak about colors and then about face types and tie knots. What you need to know is that in order not to look washed out, you should wear colors that contrast with the color of your skin, the color of your hair and eyes. So, for 57

example, if you have dark hair and a darker complexion, a bright tie will make your features pop, while a man with a light color hair (such as blond) and a light complexion, should opt for a darker tie to have his features placed in a great light. Some men are a combination: their hair and skin color contrasts. In this case, the tie should be in contrast with your skin tone. The knot you tie can be chosen according to your face type. There are many face types, but they all fit in one of the big categories.

Here are the 4 face types: which one are you? If you have long hair, don`t forget to pull your hair back when studying your shape.

58

If your faces length is bigger than its width, and the line of your cheekbones is wider than rest of your face, it means that you have an oval face. If the width of your cheekbones is almost equal to the length of your face, and your forehead and chin are tapered, you might have a round face. In case your forehead is almost the same width as, or a little narrower than your cheekbones, and your chin is tapered, you probably have a heart-shape face. If the width of your forehead, cheeks, and jawline are approximately equal, then your face is square.

A Windsor, a Half-Windsor and a Four-In-Hand knot

Oval, square, and heart-shaped faces are best flattered by larger knots, such as the Windsor knot. If you have a 59

longer face shape, you should choose a wider knot, such as the Half-Windsor, the Cavendish, or the Saint Andrew. This goes if you have a longer neck too.

If you have a round face, you should try to avoid very small knots, as they will tend to disappear while contrasting with your face. You can choose narrower, longer knots, like the Four-in-Hand. These tips go for men with wider necks too. Now you possess a lot of tips that will sure make a difference the next time you get dressed! You can find out more from other AC articles. If you liked them, dont forget to subscribe to our site!

A QUICK LOOK AT KNIT TIES

Knit ties are in a class of their own, even though they are part of the big category of mens ties. What is special about them is not only the way they are made, the way 60

they look and feel due to the manufacturing process, but also the fact that they are generally square end ties. A knit tie can add a touch of sophistication wardrobe to of your its because

interesting fabric and texture. Knit ties are very versatile

A knit tie by Salt+Dapper

themselves, but you can also change the feel of your outfit

by changing your tie. There are many knit ties out there on the market.

The right tie Square end ties, also called flat-end ties are ties which from the point of view of the design look just like a regular tie, but instead of ending in a sharp tip, they end in a straight line. Some men have issues wrapping their heads around this idea and around the idea of wearing a 61

knit tie, but there are many advantages to knit ties. Knit ties come in cotton, wool and silk, just like any other tie. So, if you decided to step out of the box and wear a different tie, there are some things you should know about these ties. Flat bottom ties became fashionable in the 1950s and 1960 and rapidly became a popular alternative to the classic tie. Knitted ties look great when they are around 2 to 2.5 / 5 6 cm wide. You will also find ties which are wider. These ties, which are about 3.25 inches/ 8 cm wide, are great to be worn with double breasted suits and jackets that have wider peak lapels, as narrow ties usually go with narrower lapels. When you are buying a knit tie, a factor you should take into consideration is the weave density. Pieces with a bigger density are, as the name says, denser, while ties with a lower weave density can even be see-through. We would recommend that you get one with a bigger weave density.

62

The when Knitted ties and flat-end ties in general are on the casual side of mens fashion. Even if you are wearing a silk knitted tie, its still considered to be very casual. If you are wearing clothes that you feel are too formal for the moment you are wearing them, consider wearing a knit tie to dress down the outfit. You can change the feel of your outfit by simply changing you ties. Say you are wearing a causal suit with a formal tie. You can change the whole feel of the suit, by simply changing the formal tie with a knit tie. This way, you can easily transition from a formal look to a look that is more appropriate for a casual setting. Knit ties are appropriate when going out, and other semicasual occasions. They are not the best choice you can make when you are going to a job interview. When it comes to the seasons, some say that knit ties are to be worn only in the warm seasons. Why that is, remains a mystery. To clarify this, we need to say that knit ties can be worn during any season and on any day of the 63

week. If you want to use the seasons as your style statement, you can choose to wear muted, darker shades, such as black, brown or green during the fall and winter, while brighter and more vivid colors, such as orange, yellow or red during the warm seasons. The most popular patterns knit ties have are simple horizontal lines or polka dots. This is something you can definitely work to your advantage, as wearing a tie with a pattern might make you feel less worried about wearing other patterns. Wearing a tie with a pattern will definitely add more depth and volume to your outfit therefore making it more visually appealing.

The how
Of course, since knit ties are casual, they go best with casual outfits. Never wear a knit tie with a formal suit or with shoes that are considered to be very dressy. Chinos, casual shirts and even jeans are

64

the things that go best with these ties. Many men choose to wear knit ties with denim shirts, which make for a good combination, but to be honest; we have our doubts about denim shirts in general.

Our recommendation is to wear a knit tie with a shirt that feels and looks a little different from the tie. If your shirt and tie are blending, the effect created by the texture of your tie will be diminished. Because knit ties differ from regular ties by having a different feel and more physical depth, these are the features you want to showcase. Since knit ties are the perfect accessory for a casual environment, the way you tie them is also very important. To complement the casual fabric texture of your tie, knots that are slightly asymmetric and casual are the best. We think that one of the best ways to go is of course, the Four-in-Hand. Knit ties go great with spread collars as well as with point collars, so you have your options laid out for you! In short, knit ties are perfect to be worn with casual outfits on casual occasions. They can be paired with 65

almost anything and add texture to any outfit. Knit ties can be worn anytime, anywhere, as long as its not a formal setting.

H OW TO M AINTAIN A TIE
When talking about mens clothes its always talked about how to maintain and keep your suit in its best shape. Often, you will find posts that discuss how to keep your shirts, shoes and other things, but whats rarely discussed is how to take care of a necktie. We dont know why that is, as a well-maintained tie can be good many years after you bought it! And, lets be honest, sometimes a good tie can be quite expensive. Learning how to maintain a tie is easy and anyone can do it! So, heres what you need to do and know:

One thing that you need to watch out is stains. It`s recommended that you don`t wear your best silk tie when you go to lunch break as it might get dirty, and silk ties don`t do well with repeated cleanings. 66

If you do get a stain on your tie, blot the stain with cold water. Club soda works the best! If you get grease or something similar on your tie, sprinkle the stain with a lot of talcum powder, as it will absorb the grease. After a few hours, brush off what`s left.

Try not to wear the same tie two days in a row. Just like with shoes, letting them breathe for at least a day helps your ties to keep their shape and crisp.

Carefully untie the knot when you need to. Dont pull your tie in any weird direction, as it might stretch and go bad. Just do what you did when you tied it, but in reverse!

Ties should be stored upright, so it would be recommended to have a tie rack in your closet.

Keeping your ties stored like this, due to gravity they wont have wrinkles and the darkness of your closet will keep the colors bright (yes, sunlight does wash away the colors of your clothes, it happens even to the best of us).

67

Never iron a tie! If you dont know what to do, just hang it in the shower (dont get it wet, just let the steam do the work). Keep it like that for about 15 minutes.

If you do need to iron a tie, because its wrinkles are way too deep, iron it on the part that is not visible when you are wearing it. Youll need a cotton cloth to lay over the tie, for example a napkin or pillowcases are OK.

Even though most ties are dry-clean only, you should do that as rare as you can, as the chemicals used in the process can damage your tie too.

Well, we all apparently learned that ties are really difficult to maintain, but in the end its not that hard and its worth it!

68

Other Accessories
H OW TO CHOOSE ACCESSORIES
Accessories are an important part of any outfit, as they complete any look and really make you stand out. Its important to know how to choose accessories that flatter you the most, regardless if you are picking a bow tie, a tie, a chain, a watch or a pocket square. The trick to picking out just the right accessories is to make sure that they are always proportionate to your body. People with big body frames can wear bigger watches, wider ties and bolder necklaces, while men with more slender physiques should wear smaller accessories. Have you ever seen a thin guy wearing a very big bow tie and felt that theres something wrong, but couldnt tell what it was? It was probably that the bow tie was too big for him and this is why he looked disproportionate. The hard part about the process of choosing accessories is that you need to be very well aware of the way you look. Sadly, too many men struggle with knowing where they 69

place in terms of body size. What you also need to pay attention to is what accessories you place where. This means that if you want to appear thinner, wearing small accessories will only make you look bigger, you wont be fooling anyone but yourself. Accessories have a way of attracting peoples views, so wear them where you want people to look. Choosing the right accessories also has the advantage that your overall look will be more framed and structured. Accessories always add structure to an outfit, which is why its very important to wear them.

H OW TO CHOOSE POCKET SQUARES

Picking out a pocket square is very easy and wearing one with your jacket is definitely something you should be doing in order to get a more put-together look. Pocket squares have the advantage that they can add something visually interesting to any outfit and that, even if you are wearing something conservative, you will still be able to express your personality through 70

your pocket square. The rule of pocket squares is that they dont have to match the rest of your outfit, they simply need to go. For example, a pocket square can have complimentary color to your main color. According to some people, a pocket square should not match in terms of fabric as well, but we think that if your pocket square comes from the same fabric family as your other pieces, it will look very well too!

B OW TIES
Bow ties are usually the right thing to wear at a formal event or in an academic surrounding. It is very important to know that bow ties do not replace ties, so dont wear a bow tie to a job interview or a regular job meeting. Classic bow ties come in black, white and silver. You can also wear a colorful bow tie, like an orange or green one. Colorful bow ties need to match your pocket square!

71

 Bow ties with patterns, although not so common, are really are usually worn by people who wear bow ties quite often, and do not make very formal attire. The fabric is also embedded with a message: the shinier the bow tie, the more formal it is. Most common bow ties have a spread of 2.25 inches 2.75 inches / 5,7 7 cm. Smaller, skinnier bows, also called bat-wing bows, look best on men that have narrower and longer necks. Larger bow ties, known as butterflies, look best on men with wider and shorter necks. Free-style or pre-tied bow ties are both ok, but freestyle bow ties are more sophisticated and have a personal touch to them!

T HE THING WITH SUSPENDERS

When they appeared, suspenders were considered underwear, so it was not customary for them to be visible.

72

Times have changed, and suspenders became a very common (and great-looking) fashion accessory. They are highly versatile and go with pretty much any type of outfit. What you will learn is that its not the suspenders that set the tone of the outfit, but its the outfit that sets the tone of the suspenders. Suspenders were most fashionable in the midcentury, but as most classic mens fashion items they are making a come-back. And, lets face it, suspenders didnt actually go out of style (they probably never will), they just let the belt take the spotlight.

Suspenders and occasion: From casual to business The great thing about suspenders is that they go with almost every type of outfit. They are perfect for a casual everyday outfit, but also for a business one. They look just as great on a bartender as they look on a Wall Street guy. Formal suits well with suspenders and look really fun and elegant at the same time. 73

Casual outfits and suspenders To obtain a certain look, its not the suspenders in themselves that make the outfit, they are just an accessory, and its the overall vibe that sets the tone.

A casual look With Suspenders

So, if you wear them with chino pants and an informal shirt with its sleeves rolled up, you will definitely get an amazing casual look.

74

A casual look where the suspenders are not visible all the time.
Wearing a business-oriented outfit, with a tie and dress pants will grant you the Wall Street with suspenders look. Extremely casual wear and suspenders Speaking of casual looks, you can get even more casual. If

75

youre the kind of guy that wears a tank top on a daily basis or a rugged t-shirt, suspenders can also give you an extra edge, and in this case the tone will be rather punk than just casual.

Very casual outfits with suspenders.

Formal wear and suspenders If you wear a formal shirt, a tie and dress pants, the suspenders will become the accessory that will add a lot of personality to your outfit.

76

Formal suspenders. Actually, its the outfit thats formal while the suspenders only support it.
Suspenders are also an important part of black tie outfits. You should know that there is no such thing as a very formal belt. Usually, suspenders worn with black tie outfits should black or white, and are not supposed to be seen beneath your jacket. Quality formal suspenders usually end in braided silk ends rather than leather tabs. Tabs are, perfectly acceptable as well, but clips are not.

And, even though its not the suspenders that set the vibe, we highly recommend keeping the tone of the suspenders within the tone that you wish to convey. A formal, 77

business-oriented outfit will not look its best with suspenders with a pineapple print. If you are wearing suspenders that have leather parts or are entirely out of leather, they should match your shoes. Many men will normally fasten their suspenders in the back, then put their trousers on, and then fasten the suspenders in the front. Some suspenders designs use a metal clasp that pinches the fabric of the trousers, while some have small buttons at each end of the suspender. The second type are, in our opinion, better because they do not compress and in the end damage the trouser fabric, but the thing is that you can only wear them with trousers that feature button-flaps for suspenders (these are usually situated on the inside of the waistband to either side of the central button and fly). Trousers that are not made with button-flaps for suspenders can only work with clamp-style suspenders. They will usually be made with belt-loops. 78

The golden rule Whatever you, dont wear suspenders with a belt. Your pants wont fall off! Suspenders are really an amazing piece, but sometimes belts are better. Try them both and see which works best for you. Including suspenders in your wardrobe will only give you more tools to use when you are dressing up every day.

T HE G UIDE TO SOCKS
Socks are an important piece of clothing, even though most men dont pay much attention to them. They are not only a visible part of our outfit, but are also important because they are functional. They absorb our perspiration; protect us from abrasion and so much more. A bad pair of socks can harm your feet and mood, while a good one can go a long way.

79

In this guide, we have a look at socks from different angles, such as design, length, functionality and other factors.

Brief history We will start with a brief history of this piece to understand some background info and then we will go in the details. Socks have been around for a lot of years. The Ancient Greeks wore them, the Romans wore them too, but the exact date of their appearance cant be known, as the first pairs of socks probably dissolved by now. We know that in ancient times though, socks were made out of animal skins and hair, in order to offer protection and keep warm. The socks history has seen a huge change in 1589, when the knitting machine appeared. Until then, socks were knitted by hand. After this year, machines and workers worked together until 1800. The introduction of nylon in 1938 also changed the way people saw socks, as 80

until then, they were made out of wool, cotton and silk (which, as you will read, are still preferred fabrics). Socks have also become part of different stories or holidays, such as Christmas, as it is celebrated in the Western world, where Santa brings gifts and places them in peoples neatly arranged socks. Socks also have different variations, such as the Koren beoseon. But socks are more than just a functional piece; they can also be a fashion statement. We have a few rules as we like to call them and pieces of information that might help you learn about socks. Of course, we want you to create your own style and follow these rules just as guidelines. Its important to know more about socks as it this will give you better insight into the world of fashion, style, and clothing, and you might discover things you didnt know and which you can use in different situations.

81

The Against the Stream socks by Soxfords

General rules Lets start with the general rules. 1. First of all, the socks you are wearing must match your pants. This is a guideline that will give you a look you wont go wrong with. However, once you know your style and want to express your identity through socks, and 82

clothes in general, you can break this rule and be more personal. You can get socks that are colorful, have patterns or are different in other ways and even pair them with your tie or shoes. 2. It is said that socks are to merge the shoe and the pants (if you are wearing long pants of course), and you are not supposed to show skin between them. Of course, we dont believe in rules and think that if you can pull it off, you should do it. 3. Socks, like the rest of the pieces you are wearing, must go with the whole outfit and the occasion. Dont wear sports socks at a black tie event or vice versa. 4. Try to avoid socks that have holes in them. Unless thats your trademark look. Of course, then you are probably weird in a weird way. 5. Learn you sock size, as otherwise you will be either having your circulation stopped by your socks or you will be swimming in them. If youre not sure, try several socks

83

on until you know exactly what your size is, but mind the fact that sizes can vary by manufacturer.

Types of socks Lets talk about the types of socks there are according to the size and the occasion you want to wear them at.

By length
1. Regarding the length aspect of the sock, there are three types of socks: low-cut sport, ankle-dress, and knee-length socks. Of course, the low-cut type is for sports, relaxation, very casual dressing, and occasions at which you wear short pants, while the other types are for dressier occasions. We need to mention that knee-length socks are rarer, as they cost more to produce, so finding them will be harder and they are probably going to be more expensive. However, you dont need to panic (we hope

84

you were not in a fashion panic), as ankle-dress socks will do the job really well.

From left to right: low-cut sport, ankle-dress, and kneelength socks

By use
When it comes to purpose, there are more types of socks: 1. Dress socks. This type is made to be worn at most occasions where you need to wear a suit or a casual outfit. Usually these socks are made in neutral colors, mostly dark colors, and if they have a pattern, this is usually the

85

classic argyle. Usually, if you wear light-colored dress socks, you should wear them with a light outfit.

Socks with argyle pattern

2. Sports and Athletic Performance Socks. These are the socks you wear at the gym, while hiking and so on. They can be low-cut socks or very high socks (depending on the sport you wear them for). Some socks are made to enhance a mans athletic performances, using techniques that wick sweat, trap in heat (for winter sports usually) or increase comfort. 86

3. Protective socks. This type of socks is not very common, as it is not created to be worn casually. Protective socks are usually designed to help the wearer in extreme conditions, such as mountain expeditions or swimming (there is a type of socks that can be worn while swimming, that protect the feet from getting too cold even though they are wet).

Socks and design Socks usually come in three types when it comes to color 1. Neutral. Neutral socks are perfect for formal events. If you want to have a good look for this type of event, we recommend that you match your socks to your pants and not to your neckwear. Whats also a rule we go by is to match the textures as well: shiny pants go with shiny socks, while a tweed suit doesnt go. Neutral socks can be worn with casual outfits too. But when you are wearing a casual outfit, you can match your socks (for example if

87

they are navy blue) to your jacket or another piece on the upper half of your outfit. It is said that white socks are to be worn only when doing physical activities. If that is a rule to live by is up for you to decide.

Solid color socks

2. Sold color. It is quite a modern thing for men to wear colored socks, but we encourage it, like it and think that its a safe experiment you can try. Block colors mean 88

chalky or non-chalky colors that dont fall under the neutral spectrum (beige, black, blue, khaki, etc.). In our opinion, socks shouldnt be the main focus of your outfit. Of course, it is fun to do so once in a while. They should be a supporting piece of everything you wear. Usually colorful socks are to be worn when you already have another colorful piece, otherwise, if you are wearing a rather neutral outfit, the socks will be the only thing people will remember about you. 3. Patterns. Nowadays socks with patterns or prints are more widespread, which is a very good thing. It is highly recommended that the pattern of your socks should be matched to a color on the upper part of your outfit. We also would say that it is best not to match your patterned socks with another pattern that you are already wearing. Meaning, you can have two patterns, but you shouldnt match them. Wearing funny socks can be tricky, as the message that comes across needs to be in tandem with the context you are wearing them in, for example, when are Bart Simpson socks appropriate for a 40 year old dude? 89

Purple striped socks

Fabrics When it comes to fabrics, socks are being made out of a variety of materials, each having its own particularities: 1. Wool. The classic material for socks, wool is the fabric that socks have been made out of for a lot of time. Wool socks come in all prices and they go great for all types of guys. 2. Cotton. Cotton is also a very popular fabric when it comes to mens socks. It is often blended with man-made fibers to improve the fit and strength of the sock. It is very durable and conforms to the shape of the foot, offering 90

excellent fit. They are easily washed (you can use pretty much any type of washing product) and are easily maintained. 3. Cashmere. Cashmere is, of course, a luxury fabric and its properties, although similar to wool, are a lot finer. The thing with cashmere is that it needs to be maintained with a lot more care than other fabrics. We think it is recommended to avoid a washing machine or dryer when it comes to cashmere. So, washing socks by hand requires not only the skill, but also the time and patience that come with this. 4. Silk. Silk is also a fine fabric that you can consider when it comes to socks. It is often blended with highquality wool in order for the sock to keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. And how nice is that, to have clothes that change their properties by the season? Silk, like cashmere, is lighter than wool and will make the socks be almost bulk-free.

91

What if you do not want to wear socks? Sockless is the way to go for many men. Not wearing socks is hard to pull off in winter, so for most men there is a limited time in which they can be sock-free. Going sockless is a trademark of casual occasions, so of course you should not go sockless at a black tie event, or at least thats whats recommended. The problem with going sockless is that you need to have really, but really good shoes, otherwise you will sweat, slip and be really uncomfortable. Not to mention blisters and other surprises that might come along. In this case, we have a tip for you: If you like the look of being sockless, but still want to get all the comfort socks provide, go for no-show socks. They are a great option and feel just like normal socks.

No show socks
92

There you have it! Now, you can use this information to get the pair of socks that fits you, your budget and needs. And even if socks are not such a big part of your wardrobe, make sure they are a well-taken-care-of part. Having the right pieces will improve your mood and will help you do everything better!

93

Watches
H OW TO CHOOSE A WATCH
Watches are one of the most worn pieces of accessories by most men, who, when they pick their accessories, choose to wear a watch or a tie. Waistbands, pocket squares and all the other accessories men can use are generally left for the second or third place. The watch you are wearing speaks a lot about your personality and taste. The reason watches are such a powerful reflection of ones inner being is because they are a conscious choice. Mostly everyone today has a cell phone they can check to see what time it is, so wearing a watch is a deliberate choice and a style statement. So, basically, the main task of the watch can be fulfilled by other gadgets we own. So, why wear a watch then? Its said that men are obsessed with their watches, and were not sure thats so true. Because watches are a 100% voluntarily item, they are probably the most important item that speaks volumes about your personality. 94

So, here are a few questions you need to ask yourself before buying a watch:

When and where am I going to wear it? Just like clothes, your watches need to match the occasion: a sports watch is appropriate for informal occasion, and it definitely doesnt go at formal occasions. You will stand out, and not in a good way, if you wear a watch that is too casual at a formal party or event. There are three types of watches: Analog, digital and analog/digital. Of course, analog watched are the most formal ones, while digital watches are appropriate for casual environments. Analog/digital watches have both an analog and a digital face. They are usually workappropriate but not highly formal.

Is it age appropriate? You know, were not saying you shouldnt like Spiderman in your 30s, but were saying you shouldnt wear it on 95

your wrist. We want you to look young, and theres ways to achieve this, you will see some example watches later which will make you look young, but we dont want you to look immature.

What do I need it for? Nowadays, watches dont just show the time, some show the temperature and other features as well, so you might want to consider getting a watch thats appropriate for your lifestyle. When it comes to need, you also need to wonder whether your need a watch that is just a chronograph, which means that it just measures the time, or whether you need a chronometer, meaning a watch that is able to measure how much something lasts.

Can I afford it? How can I get the best price/quality ratio? Watches are one of the few remaining pieces that actually say wealth and status. But we dont want that to be 96

your goal. There are watches that cost more than a Ferrari, like the Patek Caliber 89, which is worth more than $5 Million, but even if you have such a watch, we dont want you to show off. You can get amazing watches for under $100 and the rule we want you to go by is authenticity. We would rather wear a cheaper watch which is authentic and the best quality you can get for a price, than a fake. There are three types of watches, according to the way they function: battery, quartz or mechanical, sometimes referred to as hand-wound. Battery watches work on batteries, quartz watches work on an electrified quartz crystal and are very accurate, and mechanical watches have a complicated mechanism made out of gears and springs.

What size watch do I need? The number one rule of choosing accessories is that the size of your accessories needs to be proportionate to the size of your body. Average-size watches look really small 97

on big men, whereas thin men look handcuffed with huge watches.

What color should I go for? We love colors and your watch must match your clothes. Most worn watches are black, even though they are being produced in all colors. This means that a colorful watch is more likely to stand out. Also, on another note make sure you maintain your watch properly: you can keep it in a case or a drawer and dont test it to see if it scratches and breaks.

H OW TO MATCH YOUR WATCH TO YOUR

CLOTHES

To choose your watch wisely, you need to make sure that both your outfit and your watch are appropriate for the occasion for which you are wearing them. One watch cannot fit all occasions: there will be at least one occasion where your watch is not appropriate. What you need to 98

know is that there is a wide variety of watches on the market and that you can learn what a good watch is and what is a bad one either from experimenting or from recommendations (the second way will definitely save you a lot of money).

Your watch and the occasion Very elegant

Beautiful designer watches we found on The Watch Gallery website

Elegant watches are usually characterized by simplicity. Because simplicity is something thats so hard to obtain, a simple, yet sophisticated watch is the best option should you be wearing a suit. Depending on the occasion, an 99

elegant watch can be made out of gold, white gold or silver for a very upscale event, or it can be more colorful and have leather strap, but still look well-mannered. A simple, elegant, yet colorful watch can be the pop of color you can add to a very formal outfit. Note that there are different degrees of formal clothes: a tuxedo should never be worn with a watch, but a formal suit can go with a watch very well.

Very casual

We assume that you are not a guy who is wearing sweatpants on a daily basis outside of your work-out place when we discuss what an appropriate casual watch is. The right casual watch has fine lines and a carefully crafted 100

design, but it also leaves room to playfulness and creativity. You will notice that most watches fall in this category. Sometimes, a casual watch can be stricter than another, but, again, it all depends on the circumstances. For example, both working at the office and traveling are casual occasions, but they are different types of casual. The more laid back the situation, the more relaxed you can be when it comes to your watch: we dont recommend that you wear a too colorful watch when you are in a business-casual environment, but this does not mean that you cant wear a more formal watch when you are hanging out with your friends.

101

Very sporty

Sport watches are just the right thing to wear when you are hitting the gym, going for a jog or meeting up some people at your local sports bar. These can have a lot of buttons and switches and work very well even if they have a digital display. By mixing layers, lines, and by using dynamic shapes, a sport watch has all the features of an active accessory. Some watches are even made resist underwater, so they are just the right thing to wear on your wrist when you go swimming or diving. This way, because you will probably also have a chronometer, you will know how much time youre spending in the water.

102

Your watch and your body frame

To get the best effect you should always pick your watch according to your size as well. As any other accessories, watches should be proportionate to your body: thin men can work slim watches, while bigger guys can carry watches that are boxier and more robust. If you are a small guy and you wear a big watch, it wont make you look bigger; you will appear to be wearing handcuffs. Also, a bigger man wearing a thin watch is most likely to look arm-strangled. Just like in the case of glasses, a watch can harden of soften your look if needed. For example, a watch with a 103

boxier shape can compensate a more slender figure, while a very round watch can soften a very square look. Sometimes, watches can be in tandem with your shape. This is why the golden rule is to see what looks best on you and which trick results in the most harmonious look you can get.

Your watch and the colors of your clothes A very important aspect of wearing a watch is its colors. To cut right to the chase and answer the most burning question, whether gold and silver can be paired, we need to say that the answer is: yes, you can mix gold and silver, as they are both neutrals. Usually black watches are the most formal, while brown, gray or khaki watches tend to be more casual. Very colorful watches should be kept for casual occasions only. Very bright colors are usually the right choice when it comes to sport watches, while darker colors are reserved for more formal watches. If you choose to wear a 104

colorful, watch, you can put together a color scheme by using the color wheel and integrate the watch within your concept. To conclude, we can say that the variety of watches matches the variety of occasions and people in the world: you just need to use some time to think whether the watch you wear is an external reflection of the message you want to convey and the context in which you will be wearing it.

105

Shoes
H OW TO CHOOSE SHOES
Shoes are very important and are one of the fashion things that have the most direct impact on the way we feel. Shoes that hurt are not going to work well for the way you feel and act. The number one golden rule of shoes is that they need to be comfortable. The second rule is that they need to be appropriate for the occasion. Theres no point in going hiking in the woods wearing Oxford shoes, or going to the opera in sneakers. Choosing the right shoes does not only mean picking them up from the store, but also from your wardrobe. Make sure that the shoes you own are kept in the right conditions. For example, keeping them in a too moist environment will make them go bad, which not something you want. Why would you? Your shoes also 106

need to be clean and polished, and when they are unwearable, throw them out. A hole in your shoes (we have seen that too) doesnt work and you will probably not create a trend. Here is what you need to look for when picking out shoes:

Your shoes should be a little darker than your pants! Your shoes should go with your socks (we are going to discuss another time how to choose socks).

Shoes should not only match your pants, but your belt also, if you wear one.

If you wear jeans, you can go with almost any kind of shoe, they just not too shiny!

Black shoes go of course with blue, gray, navy or, obviously black pants.

Brown shoes go with brown or beige pants

107

If you wear more colorful shoes, like burgundy ones you can match them with blue, browns, lighter browns etc. If you have new shoes, dont forget to try on your shoes for a few hours around the house after you have bought them, to make sure they are not constraining or too loose.

T HE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MEN S DRESS SHOES

There are many people today who want to look and feel their best but dont have the necessary tools to do so, and who would like to know the difference between different types of shoes but are lost in the details and give up. This is why in what follows, you can read a quick and smart guide to mens dress shoes and see examples for the main groups of shoes.

108

Oxford shoe by Gucci

Oxford shoes originated in Scotland and Ireland and are laced shoes characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that are stitched underneath the vamp. Historically, these shoes were plain and made out of leather, but now they have many embellishments and colors. These are shoes that can be worn at formal occasions and usually have an elegant feel to them. They are timeless, versatile, go great with suits and are formal.

Monk strap shoes are shoes that have no lacing, closed by a buckle and strap. In terms of formality, monk strap shoes are between oxford shoes and derby shoes. Monk strap shoes have either one strap or two straps. There is 109

no rule to wearing one or two, but we would consider the strap in this case an accessory, so the bigger the guy, the bigger and more the straps, and the thinner the guy, the thinner the strap and strap number.

Monk strap shoe by Gucci

Derby shoes have the shoelace eyelet tabs sewn on top of a single-piece vamp. They are considered to be a little less formal than oxfords, because the open laces allow the shoe to open much wider and as a result, are easier

110

to put on. We would argue that derby shoes are the definition of business casual.

Brogues and Wingtips are similar shoes, but theyre not quite exactly the same. Actually, they are not similar, but many people cant see the difference, so here we are to clarify: brogues are any shoes that have perforations on it. These perforations have, of course, decorative purposes. Historically, these perforations used to let the water out which would flood the shoes in the Scottish and Irish weather. Wingtips are any shoes that have a W shape design on the toe cap. A shoe with the W design minus the perforations is also a wingtip. There are also full brogues and semi-brogues. Full brogue is a combination of the W design and perforations, while a semi-brogue is mostly characterized by perforations on the toe cap and some serration on the edge of the cap.

111

Loafers & Moccasins are slip-on shoes and are one of our favorites. The difference between loafers and moccasins is that they have different origins and are slightly cut differently. The big difference is that loafers have a distinct heel, so many would argue that the difference is basically in the sole. The cool thing about this type of shoes is that they come in such a huge variety that its hard to say precise if they are to be worn at formal occasions or at casual ones. It really depends on the fabric and the color of the shoe. Dressier loafers can be worn at formal occasions, while colorful ones that come in more casual fabrics, should be worn at work or casual occasions.

A Moccasin shoe

Loafer by Louis Vuitton

112

H OW TO POLISH YOUR SHOES Having perfectly polished shoes is a great detail that makes any outfit complete. Polishing shoes is easy and can be done by anyone quickly, easily and correctly. Here is a guide that will walk you through the steps of an optimal shoes polishing experience: from the set, the tools you need and how to do it to make it effective and the least dirty it can get.

In this article we discuss how you should polish dress shoes, such as black or brown leather shoes, since different types of shoes need to be maintained in different ways. 113

Set (How to make preparations) Here is the set you need to put together when you want to polish your shoes.

First of all, you need a newspaper or an old towel on which you will work on.

Then, bring your shoes and take the shoelaces off. Gather all the tools you need (you will read about them in the second step) and place them on the newspaper or around it. Things tend to become dirty when someone polishes shoes, so its best to keep the things that make a mess on the paper.

Dont decide to shine your shoes after you are all dressed up or anything like that. You might get you guessed it, dirty! On another note, you can polish your shoes even after youve bought them and generally try to polish them a little while before wearing them. It can be a good idea to polish your shoes at least once a week and if you get them wet or dirty, more often.

114

Ready (What you need) Here is what you need to give your shoes a great shine:

horsehair shine brush buffing cloths shoe polish all-purpose leather cleaner and conditioner

Tips:
Make sure that you have a different brush for each color; you dont want to mix the brown equipment with the black one. Also, make sure that the color of the polish is as close as possible to the color of your shoe. When you first test a cream, apply it to an area of your shoe that is not very visible. This way, you can decide whether the color is good or not without issues. 115

Go (How to do it) 1. Use the horsehair brush to remove possible stains, dirt or dust from the shoe. Pay attention to the heel and sole. In case your shoes are very dirty, use leather cleaner. To make sure it all goes well and you dont affect the shape of the shoe when doing this, keep the shoe tree in the shoe while you polish it. This is the step where you can also use conditioner if you choose to do so. Conditioning your leather shoes reacts on the leather by softening and moisturizing it. This also protects it from drying out and eventually cracking. Some types of leather, and generally shoes used in dryer climates might need to have conditioner applied more often. 2. When the shoes are clean and dry, apply a good amount of polish using your shoe polish brush. Afterwards, spread it at a level on the whole surface of the shoe. If you have trouble getting to some areas, use a toothbrush or a cotton swab. Afterwards wait around 20 minutes until the polish is dry. Remember this say when applying polish: Thin coats + Many coats = The highest of high shines. 116

3. When the shoe is completely dry, take the shoeshine brush and carefully wipe off the polish. Make sure to use a clean cotton swab or a toothbrush in case you have issues with some harder to reach areas. 4. The last step is the buff job. For this, you need a clean, lint-free chamois or a shine cloth so that your shoes shine in all their glory. When doing this, use both long strokes as well as smaller circular strokes.

Cream, paste or wax polish?

There are several types of products you can use to shine your shoes. What you need to know is that they act in different ways. Cream or paste polish for example soaks and moisturize leather but also allow the leather to breathe. Wax leather usually results in a finer shine but it seals leather and might cause dryness. Liquid polish usually offers shine but it can crack leather.

117

Why you should keep your shoes polished

There are a few reasons which we think are big enough for which you should keep your shoes polished. First of all, we all know that looking good is a good part of feeling good in everyday life. Second, keeping your shoes in shape will make them last longer and third; having a good pair of shoes ready at any time will save you the which shoes should I put on problems. So, have a look at your shoes and if theyre not in shape, go ahead and shine them; were sure youll enjoy the results.

118

Grooming: Shaving, perfumes and more!

S HAVING DONE RIGHT
Here are some shaving tips any man can use the next time he needs to look smooth and refined! Its good to have a properly hydrated face when you start shaving. Take a shower before you start! Shaving gel is better for you if you have sensitive skin. When you are shaving, use light strokes and dont force the blade too hard. Its best to shave with your grain first. There is an ongoing debate about shaving in the opposite direction of the direction your hair is growing in. Some say its the best way to get a smooth shave, other say it will only irritate you! Try it and see if works for you!

119

H OW TO CHOOSE A PERFUME
Many men use the word cologne to describe perfume. There is actually a big difference! Cologne is basically just a weaker blend of essential oils. It is a lot more diluted than perfume. All fragrances consist of three notes-the top note, the middle note and the base note--that are "uncovered" in layers as time passes, so you must be careful what you choose. Dont go with what you feel when you try it in the store! When you try a perfume, test it on your skin, and not on the tester, as different scents smell differently on different people. We recommend that you should own at least two different scents: one for day and one for night. With most traditional spray bottles of cologne, one or two short sprays is usually enough to get the job done. Spray it in areas where the blood vessels are elevated beneath the skin, such as your chest, neck and wrists, for

120

fine results. Also try to put on your cologne before you get dressed, as the oils can stain your clothes. To conclude this part, we can say that you must not forget, as a general rule: keep it simple! Looking stylish does not mean to put tons of stuff on. Combining all the tasty flavors in the world will not give you the best food; it will result in a bizarre dish! Choose the right things and the outcome will follow!

C HOOSE THE BEST HAIRCUT FOR YOUR FACE

TYPE

Before we begin, we need to say that you can establish yourself what type face you have, by just looking in the mirror and pulling your hair back, so that it doesnt cover your face. Look at your forehead, your chin and your jawline and try to see the category you fit in. (More on pages 57 58)

The oval face is very common and flexible. Usually, the chin of an oval face is a little narrower than the forehead. 121

Proportions are usually balanced. Oval faces have high cheek bones. Being so flexible, this type of face goes with pretty much anything. You can comb it to one side, do spikes or anything else, as pretty much anything goes. However, you might want to not cover your face with hair, so avoid heavy bangs.

Round faces usually have full cheeks and sometimes a rounded chin with few angles. This type of face also has an equal length and width. If you have a round face, you can keep your hair in such a way that it balances your features. Stay away from round hairstyles, and try to keep the sides leaner and style the hair a little higher at the top and front so that you provide balance. An off-center part for example or some waves at the level of the eyes will help minimize roundness. You can look for inspiration at actor Elijah Wood.

Heart-faces have a broad forehead and wide and high cheek bones that will narrow to a small chin. This type of face normally has a narrow jaw line. I you have a heartface; you might want to choose a longer hairstyle, as it will add volume under your cheekbones. Try not to go too 122

big on the upper half of your head, as it will exaggerate your features. Also, slicked back is a bad idea, so try to avoid it!

Square faces have a strong jaw line, a broad forehead and a square chin. Width and length are also proportional. You need to go for a look that will soften your features. Haircuts in layers are best, but make sure you dont go for something with bangs or that needs parting in the middle. This will only bring more lines to your features.

Knowing what your face type and what goes best with it can be a little difficult, so we recommend that you consult with your barber or stylist before making a big change. Also, make sure that whatever hairstyle you have, keep your hair in order and always clean. Also, look at the features you like about your face, and try to make them stand out. You can also camouflage the features you dont like. For example, if you have bigger ears, avoid a tight haircut that will emphasize them. This

123

does not mean to cover them, but adding a little volume on the sides will help balance your look. If you have a slim neck, avoid haircuts that have a high taper, as they will make you slimmer. If you have a big nose, you can go for a fuller haircut. In the end, its all about the attitude! Think about the fact that we are all perfect the way we are and therefore we should feel good! So, rock that haircut and own your face type and you are already a better man!

G ENERAL GROOMING TIPS

When it comes to you overall look, its important to pay just as much attention to your clothes and other big items as it is to pay attention to a lot of small details. These details are not only the accessories you wear, they are also the simple rituals you do to groom yourself. Being well-groomed will complete your look, regardless of the style you adopt. 124

We are breaking down some of the most important things you should (or shouldnt) be doing when you are polishing yourself. So, here they are, 25 grooming tips for men, broken down into several categories: face, teeth, hair and other.

Face

Shaving & facial hair

When you are shaving, always shave in the direction in which your hair is growing.

To have a better shaving experience, do it after you have taken a shower, as your pores will be open and your skin a little more moist.

Its important to know that the characteristics of your facial hair are directed by genetics, and not by how often you shave. You cant control you

125

beards thickness and natural color, as much as you try.

Also, it is a myth that using more shaving cream will result in a better shave. This does not mean that you should use a little. Finding the right amount for yourself is key. Once you found it, you can keep it as you own rule.

While this is not something directly related to shaving, its still somehow correlated with your facial hair: we advise you to trim your nose hair for a younger, fresher look.

Speaking of nose hair, the same goes for the small hair in your ears.

Make sure you take at least minimal care of your eyebrows. While younger guys usually have more structured eyebrows, older men to have more rebel hair up there. Make sure your eyebrows look their best and dont be afraid to ask a professional for help (or someone who knows 126

their thing), as doing it by yourself might end up in a disaster.

If you choose to trim your eyebrows by yourself, never use a razor, as you might end up in shaving it all off or taking down a big chunk.

Skin

Make sure that you always moisturize your skin. And this goes for your whole body, not just your face. Mens skin is usually by 20% thicker than womens skin, and as we age, it tends to become less elastic and more prone to wrinkles and dryness, which is why we need to take care of it well.

You can use the moisturizing product of your choice, as you know your skin better, but there are also other things you can do that can help your skin keep its elasticity. You can drink a lot of

127

water or go into more exotic things, such as face yoga.

To help your skin, you can get a facial once in a while. Even though facial used to be something associated with womens care, now they are available for men as well and can help you look younger and more toned.

Use exfoliators, but not more than twice a week. Cleansing too much, and especially with abrasive exfoliators can cause dryness to your skin and leave red marks. The skin becomes irritated, and to compensate, it will produce even more oil that you will want to remove. In short, you should find the right routine that works best for your skin type and cleansing program.

Make sure you moisturize the skin around your eyes, as this will help prevent potential bags under your eyes to appear.

128

Teeth

Make sure your teeth are white and always brushed well. You are technically able to keep your teeth for as long as possible if you brush them at least two times a day and you can keep them white if you go to the dentist and have them checked (and do a teeth whitening) at least twice a year.

Also, drinking coffee and red wine or smoking will only make your teeth darker and more stained.

If you brush your teeth after every meal (which would be ideal), you shouldnt wash them right then and there. Waiting around 30 minutes is optimal, as brushing your teeth directly after a meal, especially if you had acidic foods and drink, can increase enamel erosion.

Flossing your teeth will also help the health of your teeth a lot, as some particles cant be 129

reached easily with a tooth brush. This note should be taken into consideration by everyone, but especially by guys who have really close teeth.

Make sure you change your toothbrush at least twice a year, as they wear out and get filled with bacteria.

Hair

Make sure you wash your hair whenever you need it. There is no standard for frequency. Some men need to wash their hair more often, while others can even go a few days without washing it. As a rule of thumb: dont let it get very dirty before you wash it.

Dont forget to trim your hair as often as possible. We always say that a buzz cut is better than unattended hair. If you cant get a haircut very often, try at least to take care of your sideburns

130

and the hair on your neck. These details really make a difference.

Dying your hair has become more accessible to men in the last years, but if you choose to dye your hair, make sure you do it professionally. Most mens hair coloring creams are made to look natural and to go with your natural hair color current state of going grey, but choosing a color without professional advice is risky, since getting a color thats too dark or too bright might end in a shock of contrast.

Some men believe that stress causes white hair. While this is true, stress is only a very small part of what causes someone to go grey. Also, another myth is that wearing a hat can cause baldness. Baldness is caused by genetics, and even if there are a lot of exterior factors that influence it (which we will discuss in another article), wearing a hat is not one of them.

131

Other

When

it

comes to

fragrances,

less

is

more. Perfume is such a person thing, that it really should be done in a subtle and fine matter.

Its important to always have good nails, so always consider your nails a first priority! You dont need to get special, professional care if you dont have the time or the money, but always make sure they are properly clipped.

You can get a fresher look by doing Botox, which can be very easily be made today. However, make sure you dont overdo it!

132

You now see how so many small details can actually make you look more put together and polished. Next time you look in the mirror with a critical eye, see which one of these things you should be working on and dont be afraid to make a change! Seeing yourself with a critical eye does not mean under any circumstance that you should put yourself down for not looking a certain way. It is crucial to make yourself look your best to feel good and not to try to get somewhere where you cant. Of course, you should strive to be the best possible version of yourself and to any measures you can to achieve this, but what is more important is to never lose yourself along the way!

133

Table of contents
Welcome to the Attire Club 1 General style rules 5 Patterns, prints and textures 7 How to layer clothes 8 A look at colors 12 Choosing the colors of your clothes according to your skin tone 16 The Suit 23 Essential suit rules 25 How your shirts should fit 29 Pants planet 38 The buttons rule 39 The Tie 47 134

How to choose a good tie 47 How to match your tie to your shirt 51 Choose the best ties for your body and face type 55 A quick look at knit ties 60 How to maintain a tie 66 Other accessories 69 How to choose accessories 69 How to choose pocket squares 70 Bow ties 71 The thing with suspenders 72 The guide to socks 79 Watches 94 How to choose a watch 94 How to match your watch to your clothes 98

135

Shoes 106 How to choose shoes 106 The different types of mens dress shoes 108 How to polish your shoes 113 Grooming: shaving, perfumes and more! 119 Shaving done right 119 How to choose a perfume 120 Choose the best haircut for your face type 121 General grooming tips 124 Table of contents 134

136

The Attire Club Look Book 2014 edition By Fraquoh and Franchomme Published in Vienna, Austria by Attire Club (http://attireclub.org) Disclaimer: This book contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of issues of cultural and artistic significance. We believe this constitutes a fair use of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who express interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. However, if you need us to withdraw any of the photos, please do not hesitate to contact us on our website. Commercial use and distribution, any modification or adaptation of the contents, or creation of derivative works from the contents of this website are not allowed without express and prior written consent of the author (except for fair use cases mentioned above).

All rights reserved 2014

137

138