Curso Drenajes

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Foundation Repair Information

Informaton | Maintenance | Underpinning
Foundation Maintenance
By: W. Tom Witherspoon, P.E.
|| Slope Maintenance || Earth Perimeters || Flat Work || Flower Beds || || Gutters And Downspouts || Sub-Surface Drains || Capillary/French Drains || || Irrigation/Sprinkler Systems || Vegetation And Trees || Plumbing Leaks || || Reinforcing Steel Exposure || Brick, Rock Or Cladding Cracks || Vent Covers || || Animal Damage || Termite Damage || Interior Doors || A study of failed foundations (ADSC 2000) estimates the cost of foundation repair at over 12.5 billion dollars annually. The most common cause of foundation failure/problems is poor maintenance, which can normally be prevented. Considering that most remedial action will not completely keep a foundation from moving, it becomes even more important that the homeowner complies with the required maintenance . procedures to reduce movement and allow the house to function as originally intended. This is just as important after repairs have been complete because the house may move in an area that has not been repaired or is still dependent upon bearing soil stability for continued performance. Since many foundation repair companies require homeowner maintenance as a condition of their warranty agreement, compliance is also good business and one of the best insurance policies available. The following categories of maintenance are the most common problem areas and should be addressed in a scheduled sequence to reduce movement before and after foundation repairs to minimize distress in the foundation and the structure it supports.
Slope Maintenance
The foundation should have been installed sufficiently above site grades to allow proper post-construction surface drainage. It is the homeowner's responsibility, however, to maintain these positive drainage conditions. The primary function of good drainage is to prevent ponding near, or intrusion of water, under the structure, which would increase seasonal moisture fluctuations, or migration of water. Much of the damage caused by expansive soils is due to lack of timely maintenance by the homeowner and is in some part preventable. Under ideal conditions the slab will maintain its original position. Unfortunately soil is not consistent and the moisture content is seldom at an optimum level in the support soil when the slab is constructed. Many slabs are poured on drier than normal soil that later becomes wet from capillary rise of water from below, causing the thin floors to lift. After repeated drying and rewetting of the support soil, small amounts of soil are squeezed from the interface of the concrete base and the soil base to lower the wall into the ground, much like a car tire miring into a rut. If the soil has a high amount of clay content, it will also deform under pressure, much like children's putty during the swelling stage. || Top of Page ||
Earth Perimeters
The excavated area outside the foundation is usually filled with loose soil fill when a house is constructed.
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This is usually called the "backfill area". Maintaining a positive slope in the backfill area next to the house is the most critical aspect of slope maintenance. During the first few months or years, this material often settles. In many cases settlement is severe enough to reverse or flatten the slope next to the foundation. Reverse or negative drainage will cause ponding of water during precipitation or heavy irrigation. Ponding allows an excessive amount of water to percolate into the ground" next to the foundation, which may accelerate this settlement. To avoid this, the homeowner should periodically compact the backfill area by tamping with a heavy piece of wood such as a 4 "x4 " . Hand compaction works best after a rain or snow melt has dampened the ground or with the careful addition of small amounts of water by the homeowner such as with a drip line. Additional soil should be added as necessary to maintain a positive slope away from the foundation. This soil should always be clay, not sand, so moisture can be better maintained and water will run off instead of soaking in spotty high concentrations. Rhe minimum slope requirement should be 5% for the first 5' away from the foundation (3" of drop) and then at a minimum discharge slope of 1% (approximately 1/8" drop for every foot of distance) from that point on. The type of vegetation may dictate a greater slope to avoid over saturation of the critical perimeter soil. Some type of ground cover is recommended, however, to reduce erosion and lower the frequency of slope maintenance work. || Top of Page ||
Flat Work
One of the beneficial functions of flat work {sidewalks and patios that are not part of the foundation) adjacent to foundations is the prevention of evapotranspiration and fluctuation of water intrusion to the bearing soils. Therefore, every homeowner should conduct a yearly inspection of concrete flat work and do any maintenance necessary to improve drainage and minimize infiltration of water from rain, snow melt and lawn watering. This is especially important during the first five years for a newly built house because this is usually the time of most severe a9justment between the new construction and environment. The process of inspection and maintenance should continue over the years, but, cracking, settling and other problems should become less common. Because perimeter fill material may not have been compacted in 4" lifts at optimum moisture (as is normally recommended by engineers), settlement is greater along the house. A negative slope may occur that will allow ponding. This concentration of water wiII allow permeation through cracks in the concrete and over- saturation of perimeter bearing soils. This deeper saturation will often times cause damage to the foundation and/or basement floors. Because evaporation is limited by the flat work, the ponded water may dramatically increase moisture levels at the crucial perimeter beams and/or piers. When this tilting of flat work occurs, the concrete should be replaced or mudjacked to reverse the negative slope. If a minimum of 1 % slope (again about 1/8" for every foot of distance) is maintained, however, it will only be necessary to seal all cracks and ports of entry to prevent vertical water migration. This will include the perimeter joint around the foundation grade beam. A urethane or other flexible sealant should be used that will allow some movement but prevent water passing below the slab. || Top of Page ||
Flower Beds
Changing the site by the addition of flower beds, patios, fences, swimming pools, etc., may cause water ponding, which will exacerbate the wet cycles. Therefore, proper drainage considerations during such additions must be made. Nurserymen will specify peat, bark, sandy loam and other planting substances, which, in conjunction with bed borders, will increase moisture levels above that desirable. Therefore, flower beds must have some provisions for elimination of excess water. This may be in the form of weep holes, drain barriers or other removal systems. The problems created by flower beds are not a popular subject since homeowners will resist good engineering to beautify their house. There should be a balance between vegetation utilized for aesthetic demands and harming the
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bearing soils. One of the primary problems in flower bed design is installation of a concrete or steel barrier that will resist normalwater run-off. If these barriers are desired, they should have openings cut to allow water passage and avoid over-saturation. The use of highly permeable materials such as peat, bark, etc., should only be used if topography allows installation of subsurface drainage to collect excess water and discharge it away from the foundation. This will also require installation of an impermeable barrier at the bottom of the flower bed to help collect water for removal by the drain medium. Shrubs planted in the flower bed should be chosen for their compatibility to the shallow barrier of the bed. Short and very contained root growth will be a plus to proper health and maintenance of the bed vegetation. In the flower bed, the slope should be a minimum of 5% (5/8" for every foot of distance), unless ample subsurface drainage can be created to discharge water away from the foundation. || Top of Page ||
Gutters And Downspouts

Gutters should be inspected twice a year, once in the spring and again in the fall. All debris should be cleaned out and metal gutters checked for rust. If there are trees near the roof, gutters may have to be cleaned out more often. Check the slope of the gutters, since poor slope causes water to accumulate in low spots, building up debris and accelerating rusting. Slope of the gutters should be a minimum of 1" of fall for each eight feet of length. The gutter can be installed so that it drains in one direction. If, however, any single length of gutter is more than 35' long it should be installed to drain both ways from the center or have downspouts at a spacing of not more than 20' on center. The easiest way to check the slope of a gutter is to use a garden hose or pour a bucket of water into it and see if the water flows out smoothly or ponds in low spots. The gutter should then be adjusted to remove any high or low spots that prevent the smooth flow of water. Downspouts should be checked for clogging at the same time the gutters are checked. Clogging often occurs at the elbow where downspout and gutter meet. The elbow can be removed for cleaning, but it may be necessary to use a plumber's snake to clean the downspout. If there is a problem with leaves, a leaf strainer or leaf guard is a good buy as long as neither prevents proper function of the gutter. Splash blocks should be long enough and sloped enough to carryall water well away from the foundation and beyond the backfill area. Water should be discharged no closer than 5' from the foundation. Usually it is necessary to add a downspout extension in order to get the water far away from the foundation. It is possible to purchase extensions that have flexible elbows that can be bent up to make it easier to mow the lawn. The extensions should be left down at all times. Special roll-up type downspout sheets (plastic
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tubes) that attach to the end of the downspout are also available. These plastic tubes extend when filled with water and roll up when empty. If erosion is a possibility, splash blocks can be placed at the discharge point to prevent associated problems. Because the materials delineated above are readily accessible at most hardware and do-it- yourself stores in a variety of makes and colors, they can add to the aesthetic qualities of a house. || Top of Page ||
Sub-Surface Drains
Subsurface drains will many times be utilized when topography, vegetation or construction does not make it possible to drain at the surface. These may consist of drain inlet basins, trench drains, funnel drains, etc. If correctly installed, subsurface drains should require little maintenance. The most important thing to remember is to avoid covering or obstructing the drain where it discharges and to maintain adequate slope. It may occasionally be necessary to clean out roots, nests or other debris from inlet basins or discharging ends of the pipe. Inlet basins should be inspected every 6 months to ensure these do not become clogged with leaves, grass, soil or other debris, which would negate function. The bottom of these inlets normally has a sedimentation basin that requires removal of dirt as fill adds up over time. It may also be necessary to back wash (main lines when discharge becomes a noticeable problem. If problems persist, running of a( mechanical snake may be necessary to remove 1 the obstruction. Settlement problems in a yard will many I times crush piping and reduce the discharge I flow, which will cause sedimentation to occur and subsequent closure of the drain lines. Damage may also result from the driving of heavy trucks across the surface. In any case, repair will normally require excavation and replacement of the drain line. This may be an even greater possibility if clay tile is used in lieu of heavy duty pvc. Location of clean-outs and discharge lines will be a plus to locate problems and initiate corrective action. Therefore, a drawing of lines and locations should be made during installation for future reference. || Top of Page ||
Capillary/French Drains
Capillary drains are installed to intercept and collect moving subsurface water and discharge it away from the structure. Unless the slope allows, this will many times require installation of a deep sump and pump to collect water and discharge it through a shallow drain line. The pumps utilized in this operation may malfunction and unless an alarm system is
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installed there will be no warning. Therefore, it is advisable that the homeowner inspect the sump at least every 6 months to make sure trash, debris or pump failure has not occurred. If a solid sump well cover is used, there will be less potential for debris, but the homeowner will not be able to view the sump and determine if it is functioning. Therefore, the addition of an alarm is recommended to provide a warning to the homeowner prior to the onset of other problems, such as upheaval or water intrusion into the structure. Discharge lines should have clean-outs to allow removal of obstructions by use of a snake or by jetting. Because effectiveness of these systems is largely unknown until problems occur, it is wise to also backwash the system from the discharge end and/or at the sump at lease every 2 years. The effectiveness of this backwash will normally be seen by a discharge of debris, which may have clogged the system. Capillary drains are many times utilized as moisture barriers along the perimeter of a foundation to shed water and stabilize sub slab moisture. This will include extension of an impermeable barrier drain material under flower pipe beds and up along French Drain grade beams. Therefore, it is important for the homeowner to avoid any planting action that may puncture the barrier material. If this damage occurs, it will be necessary to patch the hole with materials that maintain the integrity of the barrier. || Top of Page ||
Irrigation/Sprinkler Systems
Watering of lawns and house perimeters must be regulated to maintain consistent moisture content under the foundation. Therefore, allowances for shrubs, plants and trees must be regulated for each segment of the yard. It is advisable that watering along foundation perimeters should be on a maintenance basis in corroboration with seasonal needs. This should be in conjunction with plant and tree requirements so that added water will not be siphoned from under the foundation. Seasonal monitoring will necessitate different watering for the sides that receive added and hotter sunlight (south and west sides), which increases evaporation. This monitoring will also take into consideration time of day for watering. Most authorities recommend early morning watering so that less evaporation will occur. It must be understood that over watering can be just as damaging to the foundation as under watering. If an electronic sprinkler system is installed, each of the factors listed above must be incorporated into the sequence and timing. Visual observations must also be included in the process to make adjustments beyond the capacity of normal programming. A variety of watering heads and systems are on the market that can be customized to a homeowner's needs. There are bubble sprays, side sprays or angle sprays that discharge from riser heads or pop-ups and can be mixed to provide complete coverage. Where evaporation is a concern, however, a drip system will provide necessary watering very efficiently. A close inspection of the ground surface is necessary to ensure appropriate volumes and consistency. The goal is to keep the soil near and under the foundation a consistent moisture (neither wet and/or muddy nor dry and cracked). An inspection of the sprinkler system should be performed at least twice a year to determine if zones are functioning properly and if heads are improperly discharging/broken or if leaks have occurred that will provide uneven watering. This will, in the case of electronic watering systems, require running through the system to determine if times, duration and frequency have been maintained. || Top of Page ||
Vegetation And Trees

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Studies from England and the United States have proven conclusively that trees can cause damage to foundation stability and in more severe cases complete foundation failure. Engineering studies map the effect of moisture withdrawal, which can severely damage a slab- on-grade foundation and cause movement in a pier and beam foundation system." Even when the perimeter of slab has been underpinned, the interior slab will often deform as moisture migrates to the perimeter as a result of root capillary action. Planting of shrubs, flowers and trees should be with the understanding of mature growth. Since additional moisture withdrawal will occur, distance and watering patterns must be planned. If distance away from the foundation cannot be maintained, root barriers may be necessary to reduce and/or eliminate penetration under the slab and subsequent moisture withdrawal during times of drought. The depth of this barrier may vary according to tree or plant root expectations. These barriers, if properly constructed, can also serve as a moisture barrier, which will add stability to moisture contents under the foundation. Several agriculture agencies have material available which provides projected root and moisture requirements for different types of vegetation. Trees should not be planted closer to the foundation than approximately the mature height of the tree. Some studies also indicate the tree limbs should not invade the footprint of the house at maturity. There is a variance with different types of trees that will necessitate their planting even further away. If the proper distance cannot be maintained, it may be necessary to install a root barrier to reduce the risk of future problems. Pruning of tree branches so that they do not extend over the structure .can . also be an effective way to limit root growth under the foundation. The plants should fit the environment. In areas where droughts frequently occur, it may be necessary to substitute drought resistant plants and trees to incur less action on the foundation and provide easier maintenance of the foliage. || Top of Page ||
Plumbing Leaks
Leaks in water and sewer lines will change the soil equilibrium under a foundation and can lead to differential movement/damage. Therefore, it is necessary to recognize signs that indicate problems exist. If sewer lines are frequently stopped-up and roots are observed when clean-out rooters are used, a sewer test should be conducted to determine the presence and location of the break. Repair of a break should be made immediately to avoid damage and future problems. If abnormal- water bills indicate a sudden surge in water usage, wet spots occur that cannot be explained or the owner should hear the sound of water running in a bathroom (note: The bathroom nearest the water supply line will provide the best indication of a water leak), a test of the pressure lines should be conducted. If leaks are found, they should be repaired immediately. If hot spots occur in the floor or unexplained water should pool, it is a good idea to call a plumber. Catching leaks early will many times avoid extensive foundation damage that may be very difficult to repair. || Top of Page ||
Plumbing Leak Repairs

Leaks will often occur under a slab-on-grade foundation that require breakout of a segment of the slab to gain entry and repair the plumbing. Care should be taken to perform proper compaction of the soil when repairs have been completed. This will require adequate moisture in the utilized soil and compaction of layers no thicker than 3" to restore soil bearing to as it existed prior to excavation. The vapor barrier should be repaired with plastic and a bonding material to provide a vertical moisture stop from vertical capillary action or water migration that may enter the living space. Even in the case of post tensioned slabs, a minimum of #3 reinforcing steel bars, at a spacing of 12" on center, should be utilized by drilling into the existing slab horizontally and epoxying the reinforcing steel bars to provide integrity. A bonding agent should be utilized at the edges to provide the necessary bonded joint between existing and newly placed concrete. It is normally advisable to install a moisture shield at the surface to prevent migration of water through the concrete. This same procedure should be employed
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if it was necessary to break through a grade beam to repair a plumbing line except that non-shrink grout or epoxy concrete should be used to remold the beam. || Top of Page ||
Reinforcing Steel Exposure

Many times concrete will blister or peel along the grade beam and reveal post tensioning cable ends or conventional reinforcing steel bars. If left unprotected, corrosion will slowly reduce the originally intended strength of these reinforcing steel members. Therefore, it may be necessary to properly clean the steel and remove all bond and then install an epoxy grout or non-shrink grout to build back the beam and protect reinforcement. In more severe situations, it may be necessary to drill and epoxy reinforcement dowels/ stirrups to build out the grade beam and provide adequate coverage of the reinforcing steel. || Top of Page ||
Brick, Rock Or Cladding Cracks

Movement, weathering and freeze damage will often times create cracking in the brick veneer or mortar that will allow passage of moisture into the vulnerable wall material. Because this will often lead to deterioration of wood members, it is advisable to seal these cracks with a urethane, mortar or caulk that will prohibit weathering problems. Where obvious structural problems are visible such a lateral displacement of veneer, lateral shields or other retainers will be required to prevent additional movement damage. || Top of Page ||
Vent Covers
The original purpose of vent covers is to provide adequate circulation of air under the floor of a pier and beam foundation so that moisture will not build up and cause deterioration of wood members. Although coverage of these vents will save money in reducing heating bills, it will often provide the unwanted environment for wood rot. Therefore, it is not advised that these covers be utilized unless other means of air circulation are available such as a sub floor vent fan(s). Recent revelations of houses where the growth of bacteria was so invasive and so deadly that the houses could not be salvaged, have led to anew examination of detection and prevention of such growth. || Top of Page ||
Animal Damage
Dogs, skunks, armadillos, snakes etc. will many times burrow under a slab or pier and beam foundation. This will undermine the bearing soil and may provide entry for water that was not possible prior to the excavation. Therefore, it is necessary to back fill the segment and/or place an impenetrable shield to prevent further entry. It is also important to restore positive drainage to prevent foundation moisture instability. || Top of Page ||
Termite Damage
Wood should not touch the ground at any place near a foundation. This will only invite termites and provide avenues for their passage to more appetizing segments of the structure. Therefore, the homeowner should take care to avoid laying, placing or constructing wood that engages the ground. This includes removal of any wood pieces that may exist in the crawl space of a pier and beam foundation. When you add moisture to wood on the ground, you provide a perfect environment for growth of termites and other wood eating insects. || Top of Page ||
Interior Doors
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It is a known fact that most slab-on-grade foundations will move differentially, which can cause misalignment of interior doors. Therefore, some flexibility in the fit of the doors will reduce the inconvenience of this movement. Interior doors should have a minimum 1/8" to 3/16" clearance between the top and side with the frame. This will allow some seasonal movement prior to sticking. It is also a good idea to provide adequate clearance off the carpet or floor to further buffer movement and allow for different heights of carpet and/or flooring.
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Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=162089&page=4
Home > Forums > Civil / Environmental Engineers > Activities > Earthwork/grading engineering Forum
French Drains
thread158-162089 beryl10 (Chemical) 8 Aug 06 22:52
Hi, I have a couple questions about french drains. Our property slopes from the street down towards the house and the house sits quite low in the gound, so, not surprisingly, water has always been an issue. We're putting in some french drains in the front of the house to intercept the water and move it off to drain pipes running out the back to a stream. These are being placed about 4 feet away from the foundation. I'm happy with this placement. I think it makes sense. However, in another area, around the corner on this L-shaped ranch, the contractor is suggesting putting the drains right up next to the foundation of the house. The house has a basement, and I am not talking about drains at the floor of the basement, but at the level of the ground outside. I am wondering if this is a good idea. Isn't the french drain actually drawing water towards it, therefore pulling more water towards the house foundation if there is a 2' deep x 2' wide trench filled w/ gravel right up to it? Maybe all is fine if the drain works properly, but from what I understand, french drains are not the longest lived drain. They do clog up over time. Next question, he also said that putting geotextile fabric on top of the drain slows down the percolation of water from the top. So, he just cut the fabric right off to the surface, which I don't think was very smart. I'd like to landscape right up to the edge of this trench (make the trench look like a gravel path with stepping stones), and now there's nothing keeping the soil from spilling right in. He just wants to dump river stone on top w/o the fabric barrier. Any thoughts on not completely wrapping these drains? Our soil tends to be on the clayey side, but this drain also abuts quite a bit of amended soil (more loamy and organic) thanks in advance for comments, expertise, etc.
LHA (Civil/Environme)
9 Aug 06 8:10
You are correct on both concerns. Never put a french drain against a foundation with a basement. However, along the footings is OK, if you put some 3" dia perforated flexible HDPE, with a filter sock over it. This site will have several products: http://www.ads-pipe.com/en/index.asp Can't you grade away from the wall? Even the 4 feet you mentioned in the front is very close. If you can only get several inches of fall, over about 6-8 feet will help. Always completely wrap the clean stone in the trench, and overlap a foot or more...for exactly the reason you've mentioned. Engineering is the practice of the art of science - Steve
cvg (Civil/Environme)
9 Aug 06 12:04
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your contractor is partially correct - the fabric could slow down percolation, especially if specified incorrectly. It would need to be specified with sufficient hydraulic conductivity to pass the water. In addition, the fabric is designed to prevent the fine soil particles from contaminating the gravel. By doing that, eventually the fabric could get clogged with silt. Perhaps a better option is to provide a granualar sand and gravel mixture which will provide a natural filter to your local soil. This can be rejuvenated from time to time by scraping off the accumulated soil from the surface. If not, you may need to perform the same type of maintenance on your filter fabric. Regarding the distance from the foundation, sloping the ground away from the foundation is recommended. A small swale should be graded over the top of the french drain to allow the water to collect and percolate properly. Recommend at least 2% slope or greater away from your foundation. With only 4', this provides less than 1 inch of depth in your swale. Would be better if this was 2 or 3 inches.
oldestguy (Geotechnical)
9 Aug 06 21:54
The message you are getting is that you need to filter any water going into a pipe, single size gravel or other drain system. If you don't use a filter, they will plug up and the whole thing will fail. I've seen gravel backfilled perforated "tile" plug up in one year. For many years now (since the '30's Corps of Engineers study) it has been known that one of the best filter backfill materials to any drain is ASTM C-33 fine aggregate for concrete, known as "concrete sand". If your drain pipe has slots in it, you don'teven need to put a sock on it with this backfll. I definitely would not set up the situation for surface water to enter the trench backfill, as with a "gravel path". Isn't there any way to divert this water away, even if you have to install an inlet or two and a separate "storm drain" system? A clay layer on top of these drain (filtered) systems can be used to keep the surface water out. However, if you are careful this system described below works well: You may even find a landscaper that has done it. I have never seen one that knew of this before I taught him. You mix into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil (any kind) two pounds per square foot of powdered (not granulated) bentonite. It is known as "driller's mud", avaliable at plumbing supply houses. A roto-tiller works good for this. Don't use an excessive amount or this "water loving" material will swell and turn the place to grease. The principle here is that this amterial takes on some water and swells and fills the soil voids. A little does a lot of sealing. It is a natural volcanic clay. To be effective, this procedure has to treat the whole area of house backfill, not just a few feet out. In most cases, you first strip the sod off all that backfill. Later roll the sod back and that lawn will stay quite green. Bushes can be left, but work closely around them. If you wish, work the worst areas first and see how it works. Of course you also do all that you can to shed off that surface water anyhow. Don't intentionally try to have surface water soak into some form of gravel drain. You will regret it. In summary, protect the ground from water entering, but once it gets in, use a filtered drain system to remove it. If you find you are getting water in the filtered drain system all year, that outlet should be under the water at the discharge area or it will freeze and then nothing works.
I've preached this "serman" maybe a hundred times and still find that gravel seems to be in the minds of people as the required backfill to drains. However, the first underdrain I had installed was in 1954 as a grad student studying them under highways and last
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time I visited there it still works. I have never found a failure of sub-drains that have been backfilled with concrete sand in all my working life. If I was writing the specs for this job I would say "No Gravel Allowed on the Job". The idea seems good (good percolation), but it is not a filter and it is difficult to keep it protected. You can't goof up the job using concrete sand.
beryl10 (Chemical)
12 Aug 06 11:36
Thanks for the replies. We are fairly limited in how much we can grade away from the wall since there are some big trees about 10 - 12 in front of the house, and getting too close to them would cause a lot of root damage. We had already created a bit of a swale about 5 feet in front of the house, and picked that for the location where the pipe was installed. The ditch was dug out 2 feet wide, so the trench begins 4 from the wall. I dug out the gravel enough to put in new pieces of filter fabric along the sides so I can wrap the top. In looking at the dimensions of this trench, I was wondering how this really works. It seems to me the trench would have to fill up with quite a lot of water before it could even enter the pipe. To be exact, it would have to fill with at least 127 gallons of water before the level is at the pipe (25 long x 2 wide x 4 of gravel between the bottom of the pipe and the bottom of trench). So, isn't a french drain just creating a big basin for water to collect, only 4 feet from the basement wall foundation, and that the water would probably seep into the soil faster than it would ever build up to find its way into the pipe, except perhaps during a very big rain. But, then mightnt a surface drain be more effective? The direct area of lawn between the house and the street is about 1300 sq. ft., which could, during a 100yr rainfall, produce 14 gal./min. runoff (based on 3/hour, and grass surface runoff coefficent of.35), so, yes, it would fill to the height of the pipe in that situation. I guess my question is this. What happens to all the water that doesnt make it up into the pipe? Would it be better to sit the pipe closer to the bottom of the trench? Most diagrams I see of french drains do set the pipes on about 2-4" of gravel. Or, wouldn't a narrower trench be better. Again, I see alot of them are 2' wide, but if it were only 12" or even just 8", then the water level would reach the pipe much less water in there. On paper, the idea of a French drain was great. But, as I look at it now, trench dug out, I do question whether or not this is the solution. My initial thought on the French drain in this location is that it would act as a curtain or interceptor drain. However, I was just reading on the NDS website that a French drain can provide this function only if the downhill side is lined with a polyethylene film. I have a question to oldestguy: Why dont I want surface water to enter the gravel trench? I thought with gravel brought up to the surface, french drains can support the function of removing both subsurface and surface water. Also, does anyone have any thoughts on some of the prefabricated composite drain systems? Thanks again to everyone.
12 Aug 06 12:58
My intent in my first comment was to get you to change the whole system to collect surface water, separately from ground water. Also, you may see that I recommended two things more: Seal the ground surface and install a subdrain. However, let's look at what you have and see if that can be fixed.
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The term "French drain" in my view is an old fashoned way to collect ground water and divert it from an area, such as an orchard or farm area in low ground. It is not a filter and in time can plug up. It is not a system for collecting surface water specifically. What you have built is not such a ground water collector. It appears to be a collector of surface water and designed so that the water collected also can soak into the ground and then affect your basement. I suspect your "contractor" is some sort of impractical dreamer, certainly not using common sense. My recommendation is that you get rid of the "contractor" and get someone on the job with common sense, if you need help, to correct things. Since you have a trench filled with gravel, you might change this to a surface collector only and perhaps that would do the job. But I doubt it. If you want to stick with the trench OK, but it would not be as permanent as if you had a shallow "ditch" or swale, lined or made water proof, possibly with the bentonite treatment of earth. Any place you have water in contact with earth is a place for water to infiltrate. House backfill is usually loose and water easily enters. Sticking with the current trench: To make this a surface water collector, this needs to be a waterproof container. Lining it, sides and bottom, with plastic is a thought, but I have never seen plastic to be totally waterproof, unless you seal all the seams. Concrete is better, but not perfect either. Sealing the lining to a drain pipe also is needed and that drain pipe should be at the lowest elevation in the trench, and sloped down from there. The pipe should be solid walls, not slotted. If it was me, I'd bite the bullet and do this minimum step: But think about the affect of later doing the sub-drain as if affects this work. Dig out the gravel and fill the trench with earth, preferably silty clay or a bentonite treated sand. Compact it if you can. Waterproof the whole house backfill area at least on the uphill side with the bentonite treatment and slope everything to the filled trench area, which is then shaped like a swale and sloped to inlets. This is a surface water collector only. These inlets can be purchased at plumbing houses and sealed to plastic pipe to carry off the water. Lacking the inlets and drain pipe, continue the swale around the house and off from the house area. If you really want to use "suspenders and belt", you first dig down alongside the upper foundation walls and install the slotted plastic sub-drain that is totally separate from the surface drain work. Use the concrete sand as the backfill up at least a few feet above the basement floor. The slotted pipe should be a low as possible, along side the footing if possible. Give it some slope if possible, but not mandatory. Use excavated soil for the remaining backfill. Then do the surface waterproofing and swale as described above. With what you now have I think you will see more water in the house than before. I am sorry I did not explain this before, and, I probably did not clearly explain that it is the wrong thing to do, in my opinion. You should know that I have fixed many a site such as yours and that it is not always possible to stop all seepage. Sometimes water enters the house backfill far from where it then gets into the basement. Therefore you usually have to work in steps, get the most obvious done first and observe.
beryl10 (Chemical)
12 Aug 06 16:58
4 of 16
24/03/2007 9:10 AM
Thanks for the response. You were clear the first time, but that drain was already in. And, the contractor already fired. Though, that was due to other sloppy work. If I were doing this project again, I would first hire an engineer to design the plan, and not just hire the guy who calls himself a drainage contractor. Live and learn. After the whirlwind of activity around here, and several problems with the contractor, I starting thinking more and more about this design. Though I initially thought a french drain in front of the house to collect and remove surface and subsuface water flowing towards the house made perfect sense, I later starting seeing flaws with this as a solution. However, I've read about french drains being used in this manner - wrapping the house on the uphill side, a few feet away from it, and I initially thought it seemed logical. Anyway, what I'm now thinking I could easily do is to just dig out the gravel, and replace the slotted pipe with a solid pipe and connect several catch basins along the length. This pipe would be 5' from the house (b/c thats where the slotted pipe is and the connection to the drainpipe going back to the stream), and the catch basins would sit in a bit of a swale. Any comments on this idea are welcome. thanks.
13 Aug 06 12:31
OK a good explanation. Well, as I uderstand it, the sides and bottom of this filled trench still are in contact with the soil and not sealed, as with a plastic sheet. Thus, before the water is in the pipe and flowing away, it has the chance to infiltrate soil backfill to house and affect the basement. Usually backfll was shoved in with sloping "layers", that promote the ability of the water to seep toward the basement. So, If you are going to replace the pipe anyhow, why not at least seal the bottom and sides of the tremch. If gravel is to be used again and some inlets are to be installed, I am assuming you will have them in the base of the trench, right? In that way you may not be able to correct possible plugging of the gravel with sllt in time. I know it is more work, but why not forget about this trench thing and fill it with soil, placing your inlets where you can see them? You still can use the trench for the discharge line. And if you wish to waterproof the ground surface with the bentonite treatment, it will tie in more easily with your surface water collection system. The gravel thing is likely to be a maintenance head ache for years to come. If you gave thought to use a bentonite treatment of the gravel for salvaging it, yet making it water tight, I think that will take some experimenting with varying precentage of bentonite, soak it and see what happens. This can be done in a 5 gallon bucket with bottom perorated. Too much bentonite and swelling may amaze you.
geosavvy (Geotechnical)
22 Aug 06 16:49
Bentonite is nasty stuff. Make sure you get your blend right before you spread it willy nilly.
5 of 16
24/03/2007 9:10 AM
Also, I personally would recommend against using any type of soil filter material. The gradation of the filter material has to be customized for the type of material you are filtering, else the particle arching required to filter will not happen. Its easier to go with the local tried and true geosynthetic fabric that works for the soils in your geologic area.
beryl10 (Chemical)
23 Aug 06 12:05
Sorry, this is kinda long, but I'm just trying to understand a couple things. It seems as though a lot of people on this forum arent so in favor of using a shallow French drain to collect, move and divert water from running towards a house where the property slopes towards it, yet, a lot of other people (landscapers, drainage parts stores, gardening forums) seem to think theyre great. I am no longer very convinced that they are a good solution to what is probably mostly a surface water issue, however, Ive become obsessed with thinking about how water moves through the landscape, and soil, so, I have a couple questions. 1. If the coefficient of runoff for grass is .35, I assume that means that 35% of the rainfall flows over the surface and 65% percolates into the soil. So, where does that 65% of the water go once it percolates into the soil? Does it move horizontally below the surface until it finds its way to the bottom of the hill? Or is that majority of that 65% of the water getting used by the grass, trees and other vegetation before it has a chance to move down slope? 2. Why doesnt the calculation for runoff take into consideration slope? I assume that slope must make a big difference, and on a steep grassed slope, more water is runoff than on a shallow slope where it has more time to percolate into the soil. 3. If a French drain (not lined with anything impermeable) daylights (to collect surface runoff in addition to subsurface water), how much of the total water actually makes its way into the slotted pipe versus percolating through the ground at the bottom? In a slow but steady rain, could the water actually penetrate the soil beneath the pipe faster than it builds up to a level high enough to enter the holes on the bottom of the pipe? I guess many factors affect this, including how saturated the soil is to begin with, the permeability of the soil, and even the dimensions of the French drain trench (width and depth below the pipe determines how much water must fill before it reaches the bottom of the pipe). 4. What system would collect more water? A series of surface drains or the French drain with gravel to the surface?
Here's my thinking on this: If we can assume a surface drain collects 100% of surface runoff, which is 35% of total rainfall on this grass covered sloping surface, then 35% of the rainfall will be removed by the surface drains. If the French drain trench captures 100% of the surface runoff (35%) + some fraction of subsurface water (the 65%), LESS the amount that percolates into the soil below the pipe, what total percent is entering the drainpipe? Of course, I have no idea what percent of the subsurface water it will capture, and what the loss from percolation below will be. But, if the fraction of subsurface water that enters the trench is much larger than the total loss to percolation below the trench, then a French drain is the better system. But, if the percolation into the soil is high, and/or the amount of subsurface water entering very low, then surface drains are the better solution. I dont suppose theres any rule of thumb for this, is there? Am I over thinking this? The trench is already there and I can finish it off as a french drain, or put in solid pipe with a few catch basins and inlets. I don't feel
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24/03/2007 9:10 AM
like experimenting with the bentonite or other methods of making the trench impermeable. If percolation is a big issue, esp. 4 ft. from the basement wall, I'd go with the solid pipe and inlets.
23 Aug 06 12:41
to answer some of your questions Percolating water generally moves vertically downward unless there is some driving force such as daylight, an embankment or impermeable layer that forces it to move horizontal. Once it leaves the french drain trench, it may not daylight. The rate of water use by plants is slow and doesn't have a very large effect on the amount of storm runoff or soil percolation. The 65% is retained, soaks in, evaporates and some is transpirated by plants - but does not run off. Runoff calculation does consider slope it is a function of the time of concentration. For higher slopes or smoother surfaces, runoff velocity is higher and the time of concentration is smaller - consequently, the peak runoff is higher Water will seek the path of least resistance if a smooth pipe is there it will flow through the pipe much faster than it percolates into the ground. This is one reason to provide a pipe in a french drain (assuming the purpose of the french drain is for removing water rather than for allowing the water to soak into the ground)
What system would collect more water? Depends on the design, but surface drain is probably more efficient at removing stormwater, if the stormwater can be directed to the drain before it soaks into the ground
beryl10 (Chemical)
23 Aug 06 13:01
But, if the french drain pipe is on 4" of gravel above the bottom of the trench, doesn't the trench have to fill up with 4" (actually 5" since the holes are a little off the bottom) of water before it gets to the pipe? At the dimensions of the current trench (28" wide x 25 ft. long) it would fill in with 127+ gallons of water before reaching the pipe. A big storm would of course fill it at 14GPM which would reach the pipe quickly, but for the smaller rainfall amounts (lets say, 1GPM over the course of a day) it might never fill it enough to reach the pipe, right? then could percolation exceed the rate at which it fills? i guess this is my fear. that we're putting more water into ground close to the foundation than w/o the trench.
23 Aug 06 13:20
some water will percolate down, hit the pipe and run into a hole without ever reaching the bottom of the trench. Also, you are vastly overestimating the amount of water necessary to fill your french drain trench. It is filled with gravel or sand which occupies most of the space. Water only fills the volume between the grains of sand. I would guess closer to 20 or 30 gallons of water maximum to fill the bottom 4 inches.
7 of 16
24/03/2007 9:10 AM
However, as recommended by oldestguy - to remove surface water, I would stick with a surface channel and grated inlets into your (non-perforated) pipe. If you are trying to lower water table next to the house, then use the french drain with the perforated pipe.
beryl10 (Chemical)
23 Aug 06 13:22
ah, yes, I totally forgot about all the space taken up by the gravel. thanks.
beryl10 (Chemical)
23 Aug 06 16:27
How does one determine where the water table is? I assume to lower the water table, the french drain has to be very deep.
beryl10 (Chemical)
23 Aug 06 16:38
I don't know if any of you are familiar with the "Ask the Builder" website. Here he explains water movement through soil and using the french drain to protect ones foundation. "When it rains, water enters soil and pushes the air to the surface. Gravity then takes over. If your yard slopes, the water within the soil actually begins to flow downhill." "A linear french drain is simply a "moat" that protects your yard or house from sub-surface or surface water. You construct it by digging a 6 inch wide trench approximately 24 inches deep. .... If your intent is to protect your house from water, you construct the trench approximately 4-6 feet away from the foundation. In many cases the trench system is U shaped as it passes around your house." He extends the gravel to the surface to collect surface water. http://www.askthebuilder.com/175_Drying_Soggy_Soil_-_A_Simple_Trench_Drain.shtml All the explanations I've gotten through this forum make alot of sense, but then so does Ask-the-Builder, to some extent.
23 Aug 06 17:49
8 of 16
24/03/2007 9:10 AM
percolation is driven by gravity and as such, the only way it can "flow downhill" is if there is something blocking it from going straight down such as a layer of rock or clay or an easier path to follow such as through a pipe, through a crack etc. "Bob the builder" has a degree in geology, but apparently according to his profile on the website, has earned his living flipping houses and never practiced engineering.
24 Aug 06 21:22
Hi again: I think too much time and worry is being done about quantities and rates of water flow. Heck, storms are all different and that once in 10 year thing may be carried OK by the job built, but the once in 20 or more years won't. Intensity of each rainfall also is different. So you really probably are not in a position to worry about which your system will take. You just build it as big as practical and take simple other precatuions so that any standing water won't run into window wells and other places of concern. I take exception to a few statemsnts made above. The best all around filter for subdrains is concrete sand, for all soils. You don't need to worry about gradations of those materials either. Where there may theoretically be fine clays that theoretically will pass thru the voids of the concrete sand, well don't worry. The cohesion of that clay material keeps it in position pretty well. THAT CLAY IS UNLIKELUY TO SEEP ANY WATER ANYHOW. It is the sand seams that do the seepihg and they are held back by the concrete sand. Another thing about concrete sand. It is darn difficult to foul up the the job. On too many jobs, asking for complicated procedures is asking too much of the usual contractor doing small jobs. Then too you get the guy that has been using questionable practices (such as using gravel around sub-drains), of recommending these "french drains" and he "knows better" and keeps doing it the same old dumb way. Also, water seeping into basement backfill will follow the the path of least resistance and it usually is not straight down. It usually is slanted towards the wall, due to the usual way this backfilling is done. Thus water soaking in 4 feet from the basement wall will flow towards the wall on that slope. Take to heart my philosophy about construction: IF SOMETHING CAN GO WRONG ON CONSTRUCTION, IT WILL GO WRONG.
beryl10 (Chemical)
24 Aug 06 23:21
Yes, I probably have been over calculating, but was just trying to quantitatively understand how well a French drain removes water, and where the water is coming from. When we talk about subsurface water, does one mean 1 foot down, or 5 or 10? With a ditch only 1.5 feet deep, how much subsurface water would a French drain even intercept? These questions are what led me down the quantitative road wondering, would this French drain put more surface water into the ground than the amount of subsurface water it removes? So, anyway, I am going to install a solid pipe w/ 5 inlets (catch basins) along the 25 length, and backfill with soil. Forget about this whole gravel pit. I hope this will prove to be the right decision, as moving tons of gravel is no small chore, and now Im stuck with a
9 of 16
24/03/2007 9:10 AM
pile of gravel (guess I can use it for a foundation for that garden shed Ive been wanting to put up). Why do you think everyone backfills with gravel, when concrete sand is superior? Does the backfill against a basement foundation really go out 4 feet away from it? Even though Ive abandoned the French drain, I was wondering whether clogging really such a big an issue with the stiff HDPE pipe that has 2 rows of fairly large holes along the bottom compared with the corrugated pipe with slit type holes all the way around? Do roots tend to go into these holes? I was amazed how many fine roots have already grown through the geotextile fabric, though wondered if they would continue on through the gravel to find their way into those holes. It seems it would be difficult to plug them up with silts.
blueoak (Civil/Environme)
24 Aug 06 23:59
Sorry oldestguy, but I disagree with your filter statement. I think for residential and other little jobs spec'ing concrete sand is fine and your advice for this job is excellent. But if you need a filter on an important structure you need to do the work on designing a filter. I home isn't that big a deal to the neighbors, but a dike or dam with fines migrating downstream is a little more important. Concrete sand isn't always applicable and what about filter design below riprap or gabions.
beryl10 (Chemical)
25 Aug 06 12:17
I'm rereading this whole thread and see that I asked before why one wouldn't want surface runoff going into a french drain, but I realize I still don't quite understand why. Is the simple answer that not enough of it gets transported away in the slotted pipe? I understand not feeding a gutter leader directly into the slotted pipe, but why not the runoff from the surrounding lawn into the gravel trench with the slotted pipe? I'm still questioning this b/c this will be alot of work to change, and wonder if its all that bad to leave it as a french drain.
25 Aug 06 13:06
french drains are ideal for intercepting and draining subsurface water. However, surface drainage is most efficiently removed using surface drainage methods such as a swale or grated inlets into a pipe. Intercepting surface drainage with a french drain will increase the amount of water that infiltrates into the ground at that location. You never said that you had water coming into the basement through the foundation walls, however, by putting a french drain near your foundation and allowing it to also intercept surface water, you could possibly create another problem rather than solve one.
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beryl10 (Chemical)
25 Aug 06 13:25
thank you. That was the direct, to-the-point kind of reply I needed to hear. Really, it was my question that needed to be more direct. With all my convoluted calculating I didn't ask the direct question. Anyway, no, there is no water coming into the basement through walls. That was taken care of ages ago with, I guess, perimeter drains (french drains?) in the basement leading to 2 sump pumps. That was before my time. As long as the pumps work, all is well, although damp.
BigH (Geotechnical)
26 Aug 06 5:42
blueoak - see Terzaghi Peck and Mesri. Oldest guy is correct that for any fine grained soil, the use of concrete sand is "fine". This was first told to me by Charles Ripley of the old Ripley Klohn Leonoff of Vancouver - and one of the pricipal sources for that given in TP&M. For coarser soils, you will design the filter - but remember that a lot of work has been done over the years with respect to the original equations and filter criteria. I suggest too that interested members read the few pages in Conduto's book on Soil Mechanics and they will see a good summary of "filter" criteria for finer grained soils. This is also give in one of the US military manuals. With respect to cvg, if the soil in which the french drain is placed is clayey or low permeability soil and the material in the french drain is sufficiently permeable, I doubt any of the water will enter a pipe anyway and he suggests but apparently - cvg must be assuming that the holes are pointed up when he indicated that 'some' water would enter the holes - although it is more conventional and in line with AASTHO recommendations to place the holes downward. A pipe, in my view, is really only necessary if you have a large volume flow of water - or, since the pipe is not very expensive you put it in for redundancy. Very few early-on french drains ever used pipes. I would put them in only if I believe that it is necessary to do so in order to ensure tha the french drain doesn't build up an appreciable head of water.
BigH (Geotechnical)
26 Aug 06 5:45
oops
- " . . . as he suggests . . .", not " . . . and he suggests . . ."
beryl10 (Chemical)
26 Aug 06 9:14
BigH - The french drain was built with a pipe, holes facing down, connecting to a solid pipe that the gutter leaders and sump pump tie into and runs out to a stream at the back of the property. The french drain is only in the front of the house. It has gravel surfacing to the top. No soil on top. Is meant to intercept surface water running down the sloped lawn in addition to subsurface water. So, why do you say the water wouldn't enter the pipe? Or do you mean that subsurface water doesn't seep out of clay soil very well?
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26 Aug 06 13:38
Hi All: A fun topic, and I trust all is pretty well resolved at the house in question. Now for blueoak and the "disagreement". Really there is no disagreement, since I refer to "subdrains" as being most suitably backfilled with concrete sand. Let's define "subdrain". My use of that term "subdrains" started in 1954 (when I did my Master's thesis on highway subdrainage at Cornell). The term comes from what Armco Steel put out years ago in their "Soils Manual', or similar name. A subdrain,in my terminology, is mainly used for draining ground water. It is not generally a term used for toe drains at earth dams or other important structures where the drainage is not generally taking ground water, but rather seepage water in large quantities, etc. Yes, using the accepted ratios for filter design is a good idea for these jobs. But, for highway roadway frost heave areas, base course drainage, house basements, etc. it generally is the case that designing a filter is not practical and usually not needed. Then comes what about the pipe and holes? Armco's original "wrinkled" corrugated steel subdrain pipe had its holes on the underside at the quarter points, 3/16" diameter. Under heavy flow of water some of the finer grains got in, but soon the coarser grains bridged over those holes. For the more recent wrinkled plastic pipe with slots, maybe 1/16" wide, some sand also gets in and a bridging over then takes place also. I have heard complaints by state code folks that they have seen the fabric sock on these pipes clog over at the slots, but I have not seen this happen. Maybe these cases were backfilled with gravel? None of the installations I have been involved with used the sock and they all seem to function fine. Since no excess sand gets into the pipes causing problems, we also no longer ask for clean-outs to be installed, just in case. The reason I am so against any gravel on the job is that we once called for using gravel directly around the pipe, with concrete sand under, beside and over this gravel, something one would design with the filter ratios. A difficult thing to do, but it looks nice on a drawing, to satisfy the architect who likes the term gravel for some reason. Well I stopped by the school job where this was to be done and there the skid loader had dumped load after load of gravel over the pipe two and three feet high, totally in "violation" of the nice looking drawing. After that, all gravel was removed from drawings and the dumping of concrete sand was the case, and that has worked fine. As I have said before, it is difficult to goof up the job when only concrete sand is the backfill, (at least around the pipe) .
BigH (Geotechnical)
27 Aug 06 9:45
beryl10 - it was more a general statement. The critical point in french drains is that the drain drains somewhere and the permeability is sufficiently high (usual greater than 1 cm/sec) that water passes out quickly. Optimally, your french drain is connected by gravity to an outlet. You may need some significant volume flow in order to fill up the drain rock below the pipe in order for the water to go into the pipe. If you have the flow, the pipe will drain water; if you don't, the pipe will remain dry and the water will be passed by the drainrock beneath the pipe. Now if your french drain is not connected in a positive fashion and you are relying only on the pipe to drain water, then it really isn't a french drain but more like a "storage" pit.
blueoak (Civil/Environme)
31 Aug 06 14:09
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Oldestguy, Thanks for the definition and correction. I have been stuck with embankments lately and am a little shortsighted. BigH, As always good references. I am a little worried though that "concrete sand" can mean too many things. I have seen "concrete sand" tested that didn't meet filter requirements on a clay dam.
BigH (Geotechnical)
3 Sep 06 3:30
blueoak - you are correct in that the concrete sand may not meet the filter requirements against the clay in a dam - but one must remember the underlying assumptions under which the filter criteria were based; and it is my recollection that the filter criteria were developed with coarse grained soils in mind (sand, gravel) not with clay to sand. Clay's biggest problem in dams is with its propensity towards dispersion and that is why they have developed the pin-hole test back in the early 70s. Concrete sand basically means normal well graded coarse medium to fine sand in my view. Again, see Conduto, see Terzaghi Peck and Mesri - and, if my memory serves me right, Milligan in one of the recent Terzaghi lectures (2002 to 2004) discusses this in his paper. As well the infamous filter criteria, many love to use Hazen's Rule for the determination of "permeability" although one will have problems whether to use 100 or 150 as the coefficient. But, the Hazaen's rule was developed for medium grained single sized sand yet, most texts do not point this out and engineer's over the years have used it irrespective of its assumption. oldestguy - 1954, eh? Were you there when Cornell beat Ohio State two years running in football? Do you realize that Cornell holds a 2-0 record agains that Big 10 powerhouse???
3 Sep 06 10:58
Big H Nice to see another Cornellian. Can't recall. Undergrad time was '46 -51 (5 year course) then the 3 years in navy (you remember NROTC?) before grad school there.. In undergrad days I was too poor, so I was an usher at the games. I only recall Army beating the Big Red about '47. That job was at Judd Falls road, near campus.
newoldguy (Geotechnical)
11 Sep 06 11:00
Some great information here.....Please help with a couple of questions... I am planning a curtain drain to be placed about four feet out from the foundation of a house with a damp basement. I am planning to go down six to seven feet and I like the discussions about concrete sand with drain pipe.Does the sand need to be "washed sand"? Any warnings about going that deep with a "sand only" backfill?
11
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Sep 06 15:52 OK to the Newoldguy: The concrete sand I refer to meets ASTM spec C-33 for fine aggregate. It very likely is washed to get to that gradation. In this neck of the woods they call it "Torpedo Sand" for some reason. The obvious thing you want to do is cut off the flow towards the wall. I don't like the idea of anyone in a trench that deep unless it is sheeted and braced. With no one entering the trench, this works most times. You follow the back-hoe excavator and immediatelty roll in the 4" corrugated slotted plastic pipe and immediately dump some concrete sand on it. With that you then are 90 percent done. For cost saving you might then follow with a local bank run sand up to near the surface where some impervious fill would top it off. Should some cave-in occur, usually this method will still do the job. If you wish to try to compact the backfill, it depends on your site. For some reason I don't recall having any later settlement problems on the jobs with no concerted compaction effort. Per your question, I don't see where any "risk" comes in with sand backfill. The concrete sand does an amazing job without much work. A little enters the slots, but then it stops due to bridging by coarser grains. I'd not use this system for surface water drainage, as this thread is involved with. With this method you may find the bottom of the trench and the pipe may not stay on a nice grade line. Therefore, going deeper to allow wome wiggle room might be in order. The deeper the better for protecting the structure from water, but it might undermine the footings. You can see that doing it this way, it is difficult to goof it up. Next is where to drain it to. On some jobs we install a man-hole and an electric sump pump, or run it to daylight down the hill. In any case, if you are in cold climate, that outlet needs protection from freezing. An outlet under a lake is ideal. Your local codes may allow it to go into the basement with a sump there and discharge to where they allow. As an altrnative to the trenching some contractors will talk the owner into allowing a trench to be cut thru the floor next to the wall and install a drain pipe there. It may work, but I've see these with water then seeping up out in the middle of the basement floor. Perhaps the drain was not deep enough then.
jtc500 (Civil/Environme)
11 Sep 06 20:45
I have recently become part owner of a small rancher on a poorly drained site.I have decided to install a perimeter drainage system and after much research conclude that concrete sand surrounding slotted plastic pipe (no socks) will be my choice method. It also seems to me that if this system were to fail some time down the road that it would be a lot easier to dig out and replace than a system involving sone or gravel.I also think I saw research many years ago claiming that uniform sand at 2mm would resist the passage of termites.This foundation is only four courses high. In most areas except on the driveway side I think a 30" trench would be about right dug to bottom of footing (angling slightly deeper going out)Probably will use one slotted 6" pipe but two or three 4" pipes sound right also. Will tie into outside sump crock and try to pump to street.Cannot wait to start when I get some free time.I am 10 year bulder turned 25 year arborist-treeguy who would appreciate comments.
fattdad (Geotechnical)
11 Sep 06 21:37
I liked oldestguy's reply regarding the definition of subdrain. Regarding the use of crushed stone, washed sand or something
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in-between what's at issue is matching the grain size of the sand/gravel material to the slot size and the grain size of the water-bearing formation. If I were at work right now, I'd give the basic guidlines, which relate to the D10 (or is it D20) and the D60 size. It's fairly straighforward. That said, in this day and age, most just don't fuss with all this calculating 'cause there's filter fabric to rely on. In some instances this can be false security. Regarding the attraction of water to a subdrain from that basis avoiding the use against a below grade wall, I would not share that concern. If you have positive drainage, it just would not be an issue. fatt but-but-not-that-old-I-guess dad
13 Sep 06 20:12
ITC500 Nice to see you are planning a perimeter drain, doing something line a "buried moat around the building". The idea would what I call a cut-off drain, cutting the flow toward the building. In my research I found it impractical to depend much on drawing down the water table, by installing a low placed subdrain to hope the water will run to it. The main place you can hardly get away from doing this is for agricultural drainage or athletic fields. For a football field I call for drains under the main yard markers, as well as a perimeter drain. The aim is mainly to drain off rain water from in the soil, using the draw down effect. Not perfect, but it works sufficient for play to go on. So at a house, if possible, it also is a good idea to get some drains inside the building in case some water for some reason gets past the outside drain. In sandy country these should be no farther apart than 15 feet, since most sands are not highly permeable and a steady flow gradient of about 1 in 7 seems to be common. Pipe size of 4 inch is plenty large enough for even the heaviest groundwater flow (usually). I do recall one 8 inch line flowing half full for drainage of a road cut in gravelly sand.
jtc500 (Civil/Environme)
14 Sep 06 0:23
Thanks much oldestguy for your response.I am however dealing with a four block crawlspace with duct runs below making the prospect of installing an interior drainage grid system scare me a bit.Of course down the road I might be forced on my belly to do just that.It does occur to me also that since a dwelling routes the rain water outside the perimeter drain changes the problem at least a little from the exposed football field example.Say the water table has risen to the bottom of the footing.If even more water was introduced ouside the perimeter would that water not take that first and easy path to the drainage trenches.Of course I can also see that the faster water is added would require wider and deeper trenches for a dry interior.
14 Sep 06 20:57
jtc500 The crawl space thing is different from what I had presumed. I was thinking of deep basement. I suspect you are just trying to keep severe dampness from inside, as with "ponding in there". Your perimeter idea sounds good and probably all that is needed in that case, assuming bottom of crawl space is a foot or more above your drain elevation. Hold off inside
15 of 16
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work until you see what outside work does.
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Foolproof Cure for
Wet Basements
Skip the exterior excavation and waterproofing an interior perimeter drainage system can work just as well
by Scott Anderson
by the large number of callers who sought solutions to wet-basement problems. Not surprisingly, the nationally syndicated columnist who hosts the show said that wet basements are the leading source of letters and e-mails sent to his weekly newspaper column.
hile listening to a home-improvement call-in show on the radio the other day, I was struck
Barrier System vs. Water Management

My company, Tri-State Basement Systems, based in Berlin, Vt., concentrates on basement waterproofing and, as the radio show indicated, there is always plenty of work. Unlike most DIY efforts and miracle coatings that attempt to prevent ground-water entry with a barrier, our techniques dont try to stop the water, but rather to manage it. Sometimes we use exterior perimeter drains and waterproofing, but more often we install water-management systems on the buildings interior. Most homeowners prefer this approach because it costs less than excavating around the foundation and is less destructive to their landscaping. One recent project involved a 1950s ranch home with a block foundation. The basement in this house was literally soaking wet. Water running down the walls accumulated on the floor, making the space virtually unusable even for storage. And when you opened the basement door, you were greeted by a wave of humid air and the pungent smell of mold. The homeowner had tried numerous coats of waterproof paint, grading around the foundation, and a cheap sump pump illegally piped into the waste stack, but all these efforts were of little help. Another contractor suggested DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 1
Foolproof Cure for Wet Basements
Figure 1. Electric jackhammers are used to cut a trench around the slabs perimeter. The jackhammer makes less dust than a concrete saw and can break up rocks or other obstructions under the slab. Note the wet floor and mold on the walls.
excavating around the foundation and installing a perimeter drain, but the plan was twice as expensive as ours and required removing a large deck. So the homeowners decided to treat the problem using the WaterGuard system, one of the proprietary basementdrainage systems manufactured and supplied by our franchiser, Basement Systems (800/638-7048, www.basement systems.com). WaterGuard is a perimeter drainage system installed on the inside of the foundation. We dig a trench around the perimeter of the basement slab and install perforated pipe that drains to a sump. The collected water is pumped through a 2-inch pipe to the buildings exterior. We give our customers a lifetime guarantee on the work we do, and we almost never get callbacks.
Trenching
The first step is to break up the floor at the edges of the concrete slab to create a
Figure 2. The authors crew often uses mattocks and hand trowels to dig the trench along the inside of the footing (left). Next, workers drill a series of 38-inch weep holes along the base of the foundation wall with a rotary hammer (above). Water often pours out of the wall for several seconds after a hole is finished. The bottom of the trench is lined with a layer of crushed stone.
DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 2
5- to 6-inch-wide trench around the perimeter. We use electric jackhammers instead of concrete saws because the jackhammers create less dust and can cut through slabs of almost any thickness (see Figure 1, previous page). Also, the rough surface created by the jackhammer helps to key in the concrete patch at the end of the process. As were running the demo hammers, we carry out the concrete rubble in five-gallon pails. Once the slab is cut around the perimeter, we clean off the footing and, just inside it, dig a small trench about 4 inches deep. While one or two crew members are excavating the trench, another drills a series of weep holes in the base of the wall with a rotary hammer (Figure 2, previous page). Water stored in the cells of the concrete blocks often pours out of the wall for several seconds after a hole is drilled. We line the trench with 2 inches of crushed stone and install our proprietary WaterGuard drainage pipe, sloping it toward the sump 1 4 inch over the length of each wall. There are two styles of WaterGuard pipe (Figure 3). The standard version is placed directly against the foundation wall with a plastic flange extending up the foundation wall. The flange is designed to leave a small gap along the wall so any water flowing down the wall can reach the subslab drainage pipe (see Basement Interior Drain, next page). The other version works similarly, but comes in two pieces. Its used in applications where the footing prevents placing the drainage pipe against the foundation wall. The pipe comes in 10-foot lengths that we miter at the corners with an inexpensive miter saw. we start digging the sump pit. Water often fills the hole as were digging, so we need to bail as we dig. Again, we use pails to carry out the rocks and muck. When the hole is finished, we place a layer of washed stone in the bottom, insert the sump liner making certain its level and then backfill around the basket with washed stone. We connect DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 3
Figure 3. The author uses two styles of proprietary pipe. The standard type (above) is placed against the foundation wall. It has a toothed flange that creates a small gap between the basement wall and slab so any water seeping through the block is directed into the pipe. The job described here required the twopiece version (left) because the footing prevented placing the pipe against the wall. The piping is sloped toward the pump (below) 14 inch over the length of the wall is usually enough.
Installing the Sump

While the drainage pipe is being installed,
Basement Interior Drain

WaterGuard drainage pipe comes in oneand two-piece configurations. The one-piece pipe installs more quickly, but the two-piece version is needed where there isnt enough space to place the pipe between the slab and the top of the footing. Both types have a weep flange, which allows water seeping through the wall to reach the drainage pipe.
One-Piece Drain
12"- to 16"-wide trench around slab perimeter WaterGuard drainage pipe with weep flange (allows any wall seepage to reach subslab drainage pipe)
Two-Piece Drain
Existing slab
Discharge pipe Existing footing
Concrete patch Crushed stone Weep holes drilled along base of existing block foundation
Existing block wall
Two-piece WaterGuard drainage pipe, weep flange placed against wall High-water alarm
Drilled weep holes
Airtight floor drain
Existing slab
Concrete patch
Existing footing
WaterGuard drain outlet adapter
Pump
Crushed stone
Perforated sump basket Pump stand
the sump basket to the WaterGuard pipe with a proprietary adapter and a length of 4-inch PVC (Figure 4). The sump we use has features that improve its performance and durability, including a perforated basket to drain water from below the floor and heavyduty plastic components. The high-quality Zoeller pump (800/928-7867, www. zoeller.com) is placed on a plastic stand, which prevents the pump from clogging with sediment (Figure 5). The sump
Figure 4. An adapter (above) connects the uniquely shaped WaterGuard footing drain to a length of 4-inch PVC pipe that runs into the sump basket. Workers use a jigsaw to remove the knockout in the sump basket (above right); then they level the basket and backfill around it with washed stone (right).
basket has an airtight, two-piece, screwdown lid to prevent kids and pets from getting inside.
Running the Discharge Line

With the sump pump installed and the cover in place, we run the discharge line up the wall and across the ceiling to the exterior. Ordinarily we take the most direct route, but sometimes well go out of our way to place the outlet in an inconspicuous spot on the homes exterior. The discharge pipe is tucked inside a joist cavity whenever possible so it wont interfere with finishing the ceiling.
Figure 5. A plastic stand (above) raises the pump about 6 inches above the baskets bottom so it doesnt clog with sediment. Flexible couplings on the discharge line (right) and a two-piece lid (far right) allow the pump to be removed without cutting the pipe.
Figure 6. Here, the discharge line is placed on the front of the house, since a large deck blocked access to the band joist in the rear where water is typically discharged. A proprietary IceGuard fitting allows discharge water to escape if the pipe freezes downstream. The fitting also acts as a coupling between the 2-inch pipe exiting the house and the 4-inch exterior pipe.
Where the pipe exits the house, we seal the penetration with urethane caulk and install a plastic trim ring for a finished look. Preventing the discharge line from freezing is an important consideration in our area, where winter temperatures can stay below 0F for days. If the outlet were to freeze, the pump would still run, but the backed-up water could cause a flood or pump failure. We use a proprietary outlet called an IceGuard, supplied by our franchiser (Figure 6). It has openings that allow the water to escape even if the pipe below becomes clogged with ice or debris. We also slope the discharge pipe down toward the outside so water wont remain in the pipe near the outlet where its more vulnerable to freezing. To direct the discharged water away from the foundation, we use a couple of methods. The least expensive and simplest option is to install a plastic tray called a Rain Chute (Figure 7). The chute has low-profiled sides so you can mow right over it, and its placed in a sloping trench so the water is carried away from the house. Were mindful of where we locate the open-ended chute; we dont want the discharged water to
Figure 7. Because many properties may not have enough slope or a convenient spot to drain to daylight, running a pipe underground is not always an option. In these cases, a plastic tray called a RainChute is installed in a sloping trench to carry water away from the house (right). Its placed slightly below grade so a mower can run over it (far right).
pond in the yard. Another option is to run an underground pipe to daylight, but some homeowners dont want to damage their lawns and some properties dont have enough slope for a daylight drain.
Finishing Touches
After the pipe is run and the system tested, we patch the concrete around the sump, and cover the WaterGuard pipe with at least an inch of concrete. The only part of the pipe thats visible is the vertical lip that catches water running down the wall. We also install a batterypowered high-water alarm that alerts the homeowner if the system is not working properly (Figure 8). Often we install fiberglass-reinforced panels over the interior basement walls as a final step. The plastic panels wont support mold growth, are easy to clean, and give the basement walls a better appearance (Figure 9). Basement projects on small homes like this 1,200-square-foot ranch typically range from $1,500 to $8,000, depending on the extras selected by the client. Scott Anderson is the owner of Tri-State Basement Systems in Berlin, Vt.
Figure 8. Final steps include patching the floor around the sump and basement perimeter (left) and installing a high-water alarm (above) that sounds when the pump or discharge line malfunctions. An emergency floor drain handles leaks plumbing mishaps, a broken washingmachine hose, and the like.
Figure 9. Many customers opt to finish the basement walls with white fiberglass-reinforced panels (left), a big improvement over the moldy masonry typically found in wet basements. The panels are fastened with drive anchors instead of adhesive, leaving space for seeping water to drain to the WaterGuard piping. These pictures were taken only a few days after the sump was installed. Note that the floor is completely dry (above).
FOUNDATION DRAINAGE A
by Brent Anderson, P.E.
s a concrete contractor, I have a vested interest in how well the water on site is controlled. Underground water and runoff from rain and snow pose a threat both to the structural integrity of the foundations I build and to below-grade interior living space. Wet basements and cracked foundations are difficult to fix after the fact, but good perimeter drainage, both at grade and down at the footings, is a cheap and easy way to prevent problems. If you follow these rules of thumb for perimeter grading and drain tile, youll sleep easy knowing that the water control systems you buried today wont bubble up into a callback tomorrow.
Surface Runoff
Although some wind-driven rain strikes the siding and drains onto the ground, most surface runoff comes from the roof, and the amount of runoff varies according to the size and style of the roof. A
A sloped finish grade and properly placed perimeter drains will keep the basement dry
Gable Roof Runoff

Less runoff at hip
Less runoff at hip
Hip Roof Runoff
Roof runoff falls to ground at eaves
Concentrated runoff at valley and dormer
Concentrated runoff at valley and dormer
Roof Runoff
(from 2500 sq. ft. roof)
Rainfall Amount 1 in. 1 in. 2 in. 2 in. Rainfall Rate per hr. per day per hr. per day Volume (cubic ft.) 200 200 400 400 Volume (gallons) 1,500 1,500 3,000 3,000 Figure 1. Both of these roofs cover approximately 2,500 square feet. The gable roof deposits runoff along two sides of the house; the hip roof spreads the runoff more or less evenly along all sides. Main roof valleys and dormers concentrate the runoff into smaller areas on the ground.
Note: Every inch of rain, whether it falls during a one-hour downpour or an all-day rain, deposits 1,500 gallons of water onto the ground around a typical 2,500-square-foot roof surface. During a winter rainstorm, every foot of melting snow on the roof adds an additional 1,500 gallons.
gable roof deposits all runoff onto the ground under the eaves, with little runoff at the gable ends; a hip roof distributes the runoff more evenly on all sides (see Figure 1). In addition, valleys at main roof intersections and dormers can concentrate runoff into a relatively small area on the ground. In cold climates, runoff increases significantly during spring rainstorms when higher temperatures and rain combine to melt snow on both the roof and the ground, adding to the total amount of surface water that must be drained away from the foundation. Sloped grade. Most basement water problems can be solved by properly sloping the ground around the house. The finish grade should slope away from the foundation at the rate of 1/2 to 1 inch per foot for 6 to 10 feet. A 2- to 4-inch cap of silty-clay material will keep runoff from percolating down through the backfill. A sloped grade will not work for long, however, if the perimeter fill is not mechanically compacted, which is rare in residential construction. Instead, compaction is left to chance and occurs slowly over a period of months or years, depending on climate and the type of backfill used. Gravels and sands perco-
late faster and may reconsolidate more quickly typically, from three months to a year. Silts and clays, which have a much slower percolation rate, may not compact for several years. In either case, however, the result is a negative grade that directs runoff back toward the foundation. Depending on the type of backfill, sooner or later the runoff will overwhelm the footing drainage system, and basement water problems will appear. Silt or clay fill, which hold water longer than gravel or sand, can make the foundation more susceptible to cracking from frost action; hydrostatic pressure may also develop with these types of fill, forcing water through the slab-footing joint. Rarely will any of these problems appear immediately, but down the road, youll be faced with a messy and expensive repair job. Gutters. While gutters can dramatically reduce the total ground area onto which roof water drains, it is crucial to use a sloped leader to extend downspouts along the ground to carry water away from the foundation (Figure 2). Otherwise, a gutter-and-downspout system compounds the drainage problem by concentrating the entire roof runoff load into a few small areas, usually at the house corners. Leaders should
MARCH JLC 1999
Downspout with Sloped Leader
Downspout Leader discharges onto sloped ground Finish grade slopes 1/2" to 1" per foot for 10'
2" to 4" clay cap over backfill
10'-0"
Downspout with Catch Basin

Downspout Filter fabric or grate to prevent clogging 24" x 24" concrete catch basin with water-tight bottom Buried rigid foam around catch basin (optional)
Figure 2. Sloped downspout leaders should discharge at least 10 feet away from the foundation wall (top). Use solid drain pipe to carry runoff from a concrete catch basin to daylight or a drywell (bottom).
Crushed stone
Solid pipe, drain to daylight or drywell
MARCH JLC 1999
discharge onto sloping ground at least 10 feet from the foundation. If downspouts dump directly into a catch basin on the surface or underground, the collected runoff should be carried through a solid drain pipe to a drywell or to daylight. Keep gutters clear of leaves, pine needles, and ice. Overflow from blocked gutters can follow the contour of the gutter and saturate the soffit and siding, often making its way into the wall and wetting the insulation, drywall, and floor. Similarly, gutters in cold climates can encourage ice damming, with the same damaging results. Hardscape. Concrete or paver block sidewalks can also control percolation of runoff into the backfill (Figure 3) Ive measured reductions in runoff percolation of between 300% and 500%. Again, the hardscape should be wide enough to
cover the entire backfilled area, and the surface should slope away from the foundation walls. A less expensive technique is to bury a sheet of polyethylene in a plant bed. The poly should cover the backfilled foundation trench and slope to a perforated drain tile laid parallel to the foundation. Use solid pipe to carry runoff to daylight or to a drywell. In landscaped areas, cut openings in the poly to accommodate plant and tree roots. Buried poly works well, so long as the backfill has been compacted. With a negative grade, however, the poly actually directs the water into the foundation wall. Plant and tree roots near the foundation can also compound problems with uncompacted fill, because their root systems absorb water and cause the soil to reconsolidate quickly. In a drought, tree
Concrete or Paver Sidewalk
Grade min. 8"-12" below siding to avoid splashback
Concrete or paver sidewalk covers full width of backfilled area
Figure 3. A properly sloped concrete or paver sidewalk will reduce the amount of runoff that percolates through the backfill (left). Where perimeter plantings are used to landscape, improve drainage by burying a sheet of polyethylene below the plant bed, with openings cut out for roots (below). Tie shallow perforated drain tile to solid pipe to carry water to daylight or a drywell.
Plant Bed with Drain
Crushed stone or wood chips Filter fabric Buried polyethylene
Cut openings in poly for roots
Perforated drain tile
MARCH JLC 1999
roots can pull so much moisture out of the soil that the foundation may settle.
Perimeter Footing Drains

Foundation perimeter drains work in both directions. They not only carry rainwater percolating down through the backfill away from the foundation, they also relieve excessive hydrostatic pressure from rising groundwater. By helping the backfill dry out more quickly, properly installed perimeter drains reduce lateral soil pressure, which in turn means that foundation walls can be designed to use more porous materials and less steel. Theres a right way and a wrong way to install perimeter drainage. Unfortunately, many foundation contractors and home builders labor under a false sense of security, reasoning that if complaints about leaky basements dont surface within the first year or two after a project is completed, their construction techniques must be working. The fact of the matter is that basement water problems that occur within the first twelve months are usually related to waterproofing defects. Drain tile problems typically take many years to develop. Thus, many contractors have buried time bombs that will eventually blow up in their faces.
cumference. With these types of drain tile, there is no right direction because there are openings on all sides. Plugged holes on the bottom are cleared by water entering through the sides and top. The most popular drain tile, however, is rigid PVC that has just two parallel rows of holes close together along its length. The classic approach is to lay this type of drain tile with the holes facing down, in the five-oclock and seven-oclock positions. This allows a rising water table to enter the pipe at its lowest point. Filter fabric. While hydrostatic pressure helps to flush silt from the pipe, all buried drain tile should be surrounded with coarse gravel or crushed stone, and wrapped with a filtering material. Without a filter, silt will contaminate the stone and eventually enter and plug the holes in the pipe (Figure 4). Various geotextiles are available in rolls, and pre-wrapped or socked pipe pipe that is manufactured with a filter sleeve already in place is also available.
Drain Tile Location

Filter paper and properly oriented perforations, however, will not guarantee that drain tile will work. The pipe must also be installed carefully and in the right location with respect to the footing and any interior slab. From a pure engineering point of view, the ideal place to lay exterior drain tile is alongside the footing, because water from a rising water table enters the pipe sooner (Figure 5). The drain tile does not need to be sloped, although a slight pitch helps keep the pipe clear of silt and clay (particularly when the pipe has just two rows of holes on the bottom). Avoid trying to slope flexible drain tile, however, because you can inadvertently create dips and sags that will eventually collect silt and clog the pipe (Figure 6). In fact, undulating drain tile can
Holes Down
Although porous cement-based tile is still in use today, most residential contractors would agree that perforated 4-inchdiameter plastic pipe produces tighter joints and is easier to work with. Not all would agree, however, on which direction to place the holes in the pipe when installing footing drains. The answer depends on the type of pipe. Flexible HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is slotted all the way around, and some rigid PVC has a pattern of holes around the entire cir-
Figure 4. Without a filter to keep silt from contaminating the surrounding stone, drain tile can be rendered useless within just a few seasons (left). Pipe that is pre-wrapped or socked with filter material will prevent drain tile from becoming plugged (above).
MARCH JLC 1999
result in premature failure of the drainage system. This problem is more pronounced when trees are growing close to the foundation, because wet silt and clay accumulating in low spots become targets for water-seeking tree roots in dry periods or in dry climates. In a relatively short period of time, tree roots can completely plug drain tile. Some contractors create an even lower elevation for the tile by digging a small trench next to the footing. To avoid undermining the foundation, however, most codes require that the tile be placed outside a 60-degree angle from the footing. Drain tile can also be placed on top of the footing. The advantage here is that the tile will be as level as the footing a good strategy when using flexible pipe (Figure 7). But this higher placement doesnt control a rising ground water table as effectively, and may require raising the elevation of the interior slab. Specialty drainage products. Today there are several products on the market, such as Form-A-Drain (CertainTeed
Corp., P.O. Box 860, Valley Forge, PA 19482; 800/233-8990; www.certainteed.com), that provide both the footing form and the drain tile (Figure 8). These systems not only ensure that the drainage system is level, they often provide more flow capacity than traditional pipe systems. On sites where an exceptionally high ground water table creates intermittent hydrostatic pressure on the foundation walls, dimpled sheets can be used in conjunction with standard drain tile. These membrane systems provide a waterproof barrier while also directing excess ground water from higher up on the foundation walls into the perimeter drains.
Discharging Collected Water

Capturing ground water in a perimeter drainage system is only half the battle once youve collected water in the drain tile, you have to dispose of it somewhere. Discharging water into sanitary sewer systems is generally illegal, which
Pipe Even with Top of Footing

Filter fabric Drain tile min. 6" below top of slab Stone cover extends min. 6" over pipe
Pipe at Bottom of Footing

Filter fabric Drain tile min. 6" below top of slab
6" 2" Minimum stone depth around three sides of pipe 12"
6" 6" 6"
Pipe Below Footing

Filter fabric
Figure 5. The best location for rigid drain tile is alongside the footing. Minimum requirements for stone cover depend on whether the tile is flush with the top of the footing (top left) or the bottom (above). In either case, the top of the interior slab should be at least 6 inches above the top of the drain tile. The pipe can be laid level or pitched slightly. Where drain tile must be located lower than the bottom of the footing (left), avoid undermining the footing by keeping the pipe outside of a 60-degree angle measured from the corner of the footing. This location also requires more stone cover for the pipe.
Drain tile min. 6" below top of slab 12"
Maintain 60 shoulder to avoid undermining footing
12"
MARCH JLC 1999
Figure 6. Regardless of the type of pipe used or its shape, unfiltered drain tile can easily be plugged with silt and clay (left). Water-seeking roots from trees growing too near the foundation can also completely clog perimeter drains (right).
Pipe Resting on Footing

Filter fabric 12" Top of pipe should not be higher than top of slab 12"
Figure 7. To keep flexible drain tile from developing low spots that will collect silt, place it on top of the footings, making sure that the top of the pipe is not higher than the top of the interior slab.
2" Flexible drain tile (slotted)
Figure 8. Form-A-Drain stay-in-place footing forms ensure a level perimeter drain and have a larger capacity than pipe systems (above). To control hydrostatic pressure, dimpled drainage panels fastened against the foundation wall carry water from the backfill into the perimeter drains (right).
MARCH JLC 1999
Interior Sump Basket
Hose or rigid PVC discharge pipe Clay, plastic, or concrete sump basket Filter fabric Submersible pump Discharge collected water at least 10' away from foundation
12"
60 Sleeve through concrete footing Interior drain tile at perimeter
12"
Figure 9. An interior sump basket picks up excess water flowing through sleeves in the footing (photo). A submersible pump connected to a hose or rigid pipe discharges the water on the ground away from the foundation (illustration).
leaves two basic ways to get rid of the water: On sloped sites, you can extend unperforated drain tile to daylight and discharge the water on the ground; on flat sites, you can collect the water in a sump basket and pump it to a discharge area away from the basement. Gravity discharge. Two elements are critical to proper function of a gravity drainage system. First, although the perforated drain tile around the foundation itself may be level, solid pipe running from the foundation to daylight should slope at the rate of 1/16- to 1/8-inch per foot. Second, the open end of the discharge line should prevent entry by rodents, frogs, snakes, and reptiles. One method is to cover the exposed end of the pipe with 1/4-inch hardware cloth. Alternatively, you can bury the end of the pipe in crushed stone, which will allow the water to seep out below grade. Pumped discharge. While gravity discharge to daylight is cheap and easy, I recommend installing a sump basket as a backup. A submersible sump in the bottom of the sump basket connects to a hose or rigid pipe system that carries the collected water out of the basement. If you provide for the
collection sump at the time the foundation and slab are placed, the pump and discharge piping can be installed later if needed. The sump basket should be located inside the foundation, where it can pick up ground water that rises under the slab. On a flat site where all ground water must be pumped away, water from perimeter drains should also be directed into the sump through drainage sleeves in the footing (Figure 9). To avoid having to excavate later, be sure to place sleeves before the footings are poured. Use 4-inch-diameter pipe, and space sleeves 6 to 8 feet apart around the entire perimeter of the footing. In special cases where the slab is placed a foot or more above the top of the footings, you can locate sleeves in the foundation wall. Although water passing through the sleeves or under the footing will generally find the sump basket on its own, I recommend an interior drain pipe at the perimeter, terminating in the sump basket. Brent Anderson owns and operates Brent Anderson Associates, a concrete contracting and consulting firm in Fridley, Minn.
MARCH JLC 1999
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Basement Blues
Untamed runoff can sink your house. Fight back.
BY MERLE HENKENIUS Illustrations by Thomas Klenck
Published in the April, 2005 issue.
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If you have trouble with basement water, you're not alone. We spoke with Douglas Pencille, a Minnesota housing inspector with firsthand experience. "I visit 1300 to 1500 houses per year and 30 to 40 percent of them have basement water damage. It's a big problem, often requiring corrective action." What kinds of corrective action?
It all depends on the source of the water. ; Water From Above ... The most common cause of basement water is unmanaged rain runoff. Rainwater from the roof flows down through the soil and collects at the bottom of the original foundation excavation. While the weight of the saturated earth alone can break a wall, the situation worsens when the water freezes and exerts a lateral force that can cause cracks and buckling. How do you know when water damage is from runoff? When leaks follow substantial rains and when the soil around the foundation appears settled. The solution is a well-maintained gutter system that uses downspout extensions to carry roof runoff at least 4 ft. from the foundation wall. Also, the grade next to the wall must be sloped to direct surface water away from the house. ... And Below Groundwater problems can result from a high water table or an underground spring. Sometimes the problem is seasonal, coinciding with spring snowmelts and heavier rains, but it can occur at any time. Ground-water doesn't usually break walls, but it can flood the basement floor. Exterior draintiles around the perimeter of the foundation footing are the first line of defense against groundwater. The simplest retrofit solution is to install a sump pump that carries the water away from the house. An interior draintile system is effective in routing water from the entire basement to the sump. For background information on how house construction works, click here
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Foundation Repairs: If your foundation walls have cracks or they've buckled, you can do much of the repair work yourself or hire a contractor to handle the job. The newer techniques that use high-tech materials and sophisticated hardware require specialized skills so you'll need to hire a professional.
Traditional Fixes
WALL REBUILD One solution to a buckled block wall is to replace it. You can do this without excavating. First, use post jacks and a 4 x 6 beam to take the load from the wall. Then, remove the damaged section down to the footing. After rebuilding the wall, wait several days before removing the jacks.
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EXCAVATION AND REPAIR To keep the original wall, excavate the area outside. Then, use a jack and a few wooden beams to nudge the wall back into position. Repair any bad mortar joints, and consider improving your drainage system to reduce hydrostatic pressure and to direct water away from the house.
WALL BRACING If you don't want to replace the wall or excavate, try bracing. Vertical steel Ibeams set in holes in the floor and fastened to steel braces at the ceiling joists can keep a wall in place. Local building codes vary, though, so make sure this approach is approved in your area.
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Choosing The Right Broom Old Glory: America's Flag and How to Fly It How To Repair Your Driveway Techniques: Chisel Basics Buying A Central Air Conditioning System Appliance Care: Replacing A Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Installing A Tile Counter
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BRACING WITH BELTS This system replaces I-beams with carbon-fiber/Kevlar belts (Fortress Stabilization Systems, 800-207-6204; www.fortressstabilization.com). A contractor grinds 1/8-in. recesses across the cracks. The belts are coated with epoxy and set in place, and the epoxy is trimmed flush with the wall.
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WALL-ANCHOR REPAIR Wall anchors (Grip-Tite Manufacturing, 515-462-1313; www.griptite.com) consist of two steel plates, one located on the inside of the wall and the other buried in the ground outside, and a threaded rod connecting the plates. Tightening a nut on the rod draws the wall flat.
LIFTING WALLS When footings settle they can be repositioned with push piers (Foundation Pier System, Grip-Tite Manufacturing). Hydraulic drivers placed around 3 to 6 ft. apart push steel piers down to the bedrock while support brackets restore the footing to its original level.
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Choosing The Right Broom Old Glory: America's Flag and How to Fly It How To Repair Your Driveway Techniques: Chisel Basics Buying A Central Air Conditioning System Appliance Care: Replacing A Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Installing A Tile Counter
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On the Job
Installing Sheet Piles
real estate from washing away is a constant struggle. Fred Sprinkle, a foundation and excavation contractor on Dauphin Island, Ala., frequently uses vinyl sheet pilings to keep the ground beneath his clients homes from ending up in the Gulf of Mexico. His employees who spend as much time in the water as they do on land, and dress accordingly start one of their vinyl seawalls by building a frame of pressure-treated wood pilings and dimensional lumber (1). The lumber and pilings are CCA-treated; newer pressure-treating formulas dont hold up as well in saltwater and arent as resistant to marineboring organisms.
hen you live on a barrier island, just keeping your little piece of
SEPTEMBER 2006 I JLC I 1
On the Job
3
l Installing Sheet Piles
Once the frame is assembled, the crew ties it to dry ground with stainless-steel threaded rods and earth anchors (2, previous page). Next, workers use a gas-powered pump (3) to wash holes in the sea floor for the 12-inch-wide piles. The pump sends water first through a 2-inch hose and then through a 11 2-inch steel pipe (4); the transition from a larger to a smaller diameter increases head pressure. The pipes weight makes controlling and directing the stream of water easier. Once the holes are made, the crew pushes the 12-foot-long sheet pilings in; some piles go easy, and others require persuasion with a sledge or a small pneumatic jackhammer (5). All have mating edges that lock them together (6, page 48). Theyre nailed to the wood frame at the top and at the water line. The walls integrity depends on how deep the pilings are placed in the sand.
On the Job
l Sheet Piles
The day I visited, workers were replacing a poorly built wall with one that went about twice as deep. Unscrupulous contractors often use shorter pilings to save time and money, but occasionally even competent installers face an obstacle that makes it impossible to drive the pilings to their intended depth. When Sprinkles employees run into this problem, they try to remove the obstacle any way they can. Sometimes they keep enlarging the hole till they can pull the object out by hand; other times they lug it out with a chain connected to their excavator or backhoe (7). Only as a last resort do they cut the pile shorter. Once all the piles are installed, the area is backfilled with sand and the wall is finished with a pressure-treated cap. This kind of work may sound like a day at the beach, but crew members told me cuts and puncture wounds on hands and feet plus nasty sunburns are common. They also said that despite the large retrieval magnet kept permanently in the truck, they lose hammers and other hand tools regularly. Patrick McCombe
Installation Guide
www.hardiepipe.com
This Installation Guide is offered to provide you guidance in the proper unloading, handling, and installation of Hardie Pipe. Hardie Pipe, a division of James Hardie Building Products, Inc., is The Next Generation of Concrete Pipe. It is important that proper handling and installation procedures are followed to ensure a long-lasting, trouble-free concrete pipeline. Please contact our Customer Service Department toll-free at 877-910-3727 from 7AM to 5PM EST, Monday through Friday with any questions or comments you may have about the handling or installation of Hardie Pipe as it pertains to your project. The information contained in this booklet is based on field experience and sound engineering judgment in accordance with standard concrete pipe installation practices as found in ASTM C1479. It should in no way be used to override or deviate from the specifications and/or engineering drawings provided for your specific project.
Table of Contents Ordering Procedures & Customer Support Hardie Pipe Arrives on the Jobsite Unloading Hardie Pipe from Flatbed Truck Storing Hardie Pipe on the Jobsite Handling Hardie Pipe Preparing the Pipe Trench Bedding Haunch Lower Side Overfill Zone Excavation Limits Dewatering Standard Installations Jointing Installing Gaskets & Applying Lube Making the Pipe Joint Minimum Cover for Construction Loads Connecting Hardie Pipe to Structure/Manhole Field Cutting Hardie Pipe Hardie Pipe Warranty Appendix Hardie Pipe Field Repair Procedures Cracked or Chipped Joint Puncture Holes Surface Imperfections Gouging Bundling Standards Pipe Nominal Weight Chart Shipping Specifications Nominal Pipe ODs Joint Gap Tolerances Center Stripe Color Code 3 4 5 6 8 9 11 13 14 14 14 15 15 16 19 19 21 24 25 26 29 30 30 30 31 33 34 35 38 39 40 41 42
Ordering Procedures & Customer Support Coordination between the contractor, supplier and engineer is recommended to avoid mistakes and possible delays in pipe deliveries. Although Hardie Pipe stocks a wide range of pipe sizes and classes, it is important to follow proper lead time procedures provided by the Customer Service Department. Hardie Pipe maintains an experienced staff to help you achieve the most cost and time-efficient installation. Our professional team is available to provide guidance about Hardie Pipe. To initiate a pipe order, please contact your local representative or the Hardie Pipe Customer Service Department at 877-910-3727.
Hardie Pipe Arrives on the Jobsite Always confirm pipe shipment with bill of lading Before Signing: Jobsite/Project Pipe Quantity Pipe Class Pipe Diameter Quantity of Gaskets (Normal or Oil Resistant) Lube Certification Stamp (if applicable)
If there are any discrepancies on the bill of lading, contact the Hardie Pipe Customer Service Department (877-910-3727) between the hours of 7AM and 5PM EST, Monday through Friday.
Figure 1 - Hardie Pipe Arriving at Jobsite
Unloading Hardie Pipe from Flatbed Truck Coordinate delivery and unloading with the construction schedule to avoid re-handling and unnecessary equipment movement. It is the responsibility of the contractor to ensure that Hardie Pipe delivery trucks have full access to the unloading area. For ease in shipping and offloading, Hardie Pipe is bundled and banded together in standard quantities as listed in the Appendix in Table 5 and loaded on flatbed trucks as listed in Table 7. Caution: Consult Nominal Pipe Weight Chart (Table 2) and Confirm Proper Equipment Used for Unloading Hardie Pipe. Hardie Pipe is longer than traditional steel reinforced concrete pipe. It is important to center the load on your equipment before the pipe is lifted off the truck. Follow the manufacturers guidelines and safety procedures for the specific piece of equipment used to unload the pipe.
Figure 2 - Never Roll Hardie Pipe off the truck!
Use of a forklift is recommended when offloading Hardie Pipe. Depending upon equipment, fork extensions may be used if designed to properly support the load of the pipe bundle. Note: Please consult Nominal Pipe Weight Chart Table 6 of the Appendix
Figure 3 - Forklift With Pipe Bundle Centered Over Forks
Align Forks on pipe as shown in the picture above and place Hardie Pipe on ground as appropriate. Hardie Pipe does not recommend cutting the steel bands bundling the pipe together until safely stored on the jobsite. However, if it is necessary to cut the bands while on the truck, please take safety precautions to stabilize the pipe on the pallet AND the remaining pipe on the truck. Contact your local sales representative or Hardie Pipe Customer Service Department if you are not sure about offloading procedures.
Storing Hardie Pipe on the Jobsite Hardie Pipe should be stored properly on your jobsite to prevent unnecessary damage to the pipe and gaskets. Be sure to keep stored gaskets out of direct contact with sunlight to prevent the rubber from experiencing UV damage.
Figure 4 - Proper Storage of Hardie Pipe
Figure 5 - Improper Storage of Hardie Pipe
Storage area must be a level area with a stable base. Hardie Pipe may be stored on site as shown in the diagram above. Pallets of pipe may be stacked up to 8-feet high if the following conditions are met: Pipe must be aligned in the same direction. Pallets must be aligned in the same direction. Pallets must be centered on the lower bundle. No cantilever pipe or pallets are allowed.
Handling Hardie Pipe Hardie Pipe should be picked up and handled using properly rated rigging equipment capable of lifting appropriate load (See Table 6 of the Appendix). Care should be taken to insure that the pipe ends are not damaged and worker safety is maintained while maneuvering Hardie Pipe around the jobsite and setting Hardie Pipe into the trench. Pipe should be carried level to avoid damaging joints. A center stripe is painted on the pipe during manufacturing to aid in locating the center of the load. The color of the stripe designates the class of the pipe (See Table 10 in the appendix). It is the responsibility of the contractor to locate the true center of the pipe for lifting and to handle loads safely. Align rigging along center stripe as shown in picture below: When picking up Hardie Pipe, use worker or tether line to guide end of pipe.
Caution: As Hardie Pipe is Lifted and Moved, Watch for Pinch Points.
Figure 6 - Recommended Lifting and Handling
Do not lift Hardie Pipe off set from the center stripe
Figure 7 - Improper Lifting and Handling
Do not lift pipe with forks inside pipe
Figure 8 - Improper Lifting
Do not lift pipe with slings inside pipe.
Figure 9 - Improper Lifting
If damage occurs to the pipe while handling, consult the field repair procedures in the appendix of this installation booklet. If bell or spigot is damaged beyond repair, cut the damaged section of pipe back to sound, solid material and use this undamaged piece to come into or out of a manhole/junction box. 10
Preparing the Pipe Trench Hardie Pipe is a concrete pipe that should be installed in accordance with ASTM C1479. See Table 8 of the appendix for ODs by diameter and pipe class. When preparing the pipe trench, care should be taken to assure that the foundation is free of rock, hard, lumpy, or other unyielding material. The foundation shall be moderately firm to hard in situ soil, stabilized soil, or compacted fill material. Remove muck or other soft material to a depth necessary to establish a firm foundation. If the trench is undercut to remove undesirable foundation material, the undercut area must be filled and compacted to the level of the bedding zone of the pipe. Backfill undercut areas with approved materials compacted to at least the same density as the bedding material. Trench grades should be monitored to assure compliance with specified grade. Failure to maintain proper grade can result in high and low spots in the pipeline, which can affect the hydraulic capacity of the line as well as prevent proper bedding of the pipe.
Figure 10 - Pipe / Installation Terminology
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Figure 11 - Standard Trench Installation
Figure 12 - Embankment Installation
12
Bedding Uniformly construct bedding over the entire length of the pipe barrel, near structures, to distribute the load-bearing reaction evenly to the bedding over the full length of the pipe barrel and to maintain the required pipe grade. Bedding under the middle third of the pipe diameter shall be loosely placed, and uncompacted prior to placement of the pipe. Any outer bedding shall be compacted to the requirements for the specific Standard Installation type.
Figure 13 - Pipe Bedding and Foundation
Do not make adjustment in grade by lifting and dropping the pipe, by pushing down on pipe with excavating equipment or by lifting the pipe and packing bedding material beneath the pipe. Pipe not on grade shall be completely removed, the grade corrected and the pipe rejoined. Note: Ensure that bedding is free of rock, hard, lumpy or other unyielding material.
13
Haunch Construct the haunch using the specified soil type and compaction level required for the designated installation. Haunch material shall be placed and compacted uniformly over the entire length of the pipe barrel, near structures, to distribute the load-bearing reaction evenly to the bedding over the full length of the pipe barrel. Maximum aggregate size used in the haunch area shall not be greater than 1-inch. Compact uniformly placed soil on either side of the pipe to the specified density to prevent lateral displacement of the pipe. Lower Side Soil placed in the lower side shall not contain debris, organic matter, frozen materials or large stones with diameters greater than one half the thickness of the compacted layer being placed. The lower side shall be constructed using a specified soil type and minimum compaction level. When placed in layers, the layers shall be of a thickness required to achieve the specified compaction as required by the project specifications. Overfill Zone Soil placed in the overfill area shall be material conforming to the project specifications. This material shall contain no debris, organic matter, frozen materials or large stones with diameters greater than one half the thickness of the compacted layer being placed. When placed in layers, the layers shall be of a thickness required to achieve the specified compaction and as required by the project specifications. To prevent lateral displacement of the pipe, place and compact soil uniformly on either side of the pipe to the specified density. The overfill placed within one outside diameter of the pipe, that is above the spring line, and below top of the pipe, shall be compacted to at least the same density as the majority of the overfill above the pipe. Take care not to damage pipe when using impact or vibratory equipment to compact soils in pipe trench. Do not allow heavy construction or compaction equipment to cross over pipe until backfill is compacted to an elevation of at least 3 feet above the crown of the pipe. 14
Excavation Limits Trench width and depth directly affect the backfill load transmitted to the pipe. The pipe class specified is determined based upon the trench width and depth assumed during design. To avoid overloading the pipe, the trench width should not exceed that which is stated on the project plans and specifications without consulting with the design engineer. Dewatering Backfill should be placed in the dry. Dewater trench to provide dry conditions during excavation and installation. Where dewatering by normal pumping methods is ineffective, uniform bedding of a select granular material shall be placed throughout the entire run of pipe. Uniformly construct bedding over the entire length of the pipe barrel, including near structures, to distribute the load-bearing reaction evenly to the bedding over the full length of the pipe barrel and to maintain the required pipe grade.
15
Standard Installations Hardie Pipe is a concrete pipe that should be installed in accordance with the Standard Installations as shown in ASTM C1479. These standard installations are listed below. TABLE 1 - SOILS AND MINIMUM COMPACTION REQUIREMENTS
Installation Bedding Thickness Type
Type 1 Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm)
Haunch and Outer Bedding

95% CAT I
Lower Side
90% CAT I, 95% CAT II, or 100% CAT III
Type 2
90% CAT I or 95% CAT II
Type 3
Type 4
No bedding required, No compaction No compaction except if rock required, except if required, except of foundation, use Do/12 CAT III, use 85% CAT III, use 85% minimum, not less than CAT III CAT III 6 (150mm)
NOTES: 1. Compaction and soil symbols -i.e. 95% CAT I refer to CAT 1 soil materials with a minimum standard proctor compaction of 95%. 2. Soil in the outerbedding, haunch, and lower side zones, except with Do/3 from the pipe springline, shall be compacted to at least the same compaction as the majority of the soil in the overfill zone. 3.SUBTRENCHES 3.1 A subtrench is defined as a trench with its top below finished grade by more than 0.1H or, for roadways, its top is at an elevation lower than 1 (0.3m) below the bottom of the paved base material. 3.2 The minimum width of a subtrench shall be 1.33 Do, or wider if required for adequate space to attain the specified compaction in the haunch and bedding zones. 3.3 For subtrenches with walls of natural soil, any portion of the lower side zone in the subtrench wall shall be at least as fim as equivalent soil placed to the compaction requirements specifiedfor the lower side zone and as firm as the majority of soil in the overfill zone, or shall be removed and replaced with soil compacted to the specified level.
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Table 2 - SOILS AND MINIMUM COMPACTION REQUIREMENTS

Installation Bedding Thickness Haunch and Type Outer Bedding
Type 1 Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) Do/24 minimum, not less than 3 (75mm). If rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) No bedding required, except if rock foundation, use Do/12 minimum, not less than 6 (150mm) 95% CAT I
Lower Side
90% CAT I, 95% CAT II, or 100% CAT III 85% CAT I, 90% CAT II, or 95% CAT III
Type 2
90% CAT I or 95% CAT II
Type 3
Type 4
No compaction No compaction required, except if required, except of CAT III, use 85% CAT III, use 85% CAT III CAT III
NOTES: 1. Compaction and soil symbols -i.e. 95% CAT I refer to CAT 1 soil materials with a minimum standard proctor compaction of 95%. 2. The trench top elevation shall be no lower than 0.1H below finished gradeor, for roadways, its top shall be no lower than an elevation of 1 (0.3) below the bottom of he pavement base material. 3. Soil in bedding and haunch zones shall be compacted to at least the same compaction as specified for the majority of soil in the backfill zone. 4. The trench width shall be wider than shown if required for adequate space to attain the specified compaction in the haunch and bedding zones. 5. For trench walls that are within 10 degrees of vertical, the compaction or firmness of the soil in the trench walls and lower side zone need not be considered. 6. For trench walls with greater than 10 degree slopes that consist of embankment, the lower side shall be compacted to at least the same compaction as specified for the soil in the backfill zone.
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TABLE 3 - SOIL DESIGNATIONS

SIDD Soil Representative Soil Types USCS
Gravelly Sand (CATI) SW, SP GW, GP
Percent Compaction Standard Proctor

100 95 90 85 80 61 100 95 90 85 80 49 100 95 90 85 80 45 100 95 90 45
AASHTO
A1, A3
Modified Proctor
95 90 85 80 75 59 95 90 85 80 75 46 90 85 80 75 70 40 90 85 80 40
Sandy Silt (CAT II)
GM, SM, ML Also GC, SC with less than 20% passing #200 sieve CL, MH GC, SC
A2, A4
Silty Clay (CAT III)
A5, A6
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Jointing Installing Gaskets and Applying Lube Carefully clean all dirt and foreign substances from the jointing surfaces of the bell and spigot end of Hardie Pipe, including the gasket groove. Gaskets should not be placed on Hardie Pipe until pipe is ready to be installed. Confirm that gasket diameter matches pipe diameter. Install gasket on spigot end of pipe in the machined gasket groove and oriented in the proper direction as illustrated below:
Caution: Be sure that gasket is seated properly in machined gasket groove and free of any soil, twists, or abrasions to insure proper joint seal is made.
Figure 14 - Properly Seated Gasket
Figure 15 - Improperly Seated Gasket
19
After gasket is in place, generously apply lube to Hardie Pipe BELL END ONLY as shown below:
Figure 16 - Lubrication of Bell
Figure 17 - Lubrication of Spigot
Be sure to apply a generous amount of lube along the entire surface of the pipe bell to allow for easy installation. Note: For wet conditions use a subaqueous lube. 20
Making the Pipe Joint Proper safety measures should be implemented when working in trenches and confined spaces in accordance with jobsite safety instructions. Before laying Hardie Pipe into the pipe trench, be sure that bedding material is set to proper line and grade.
Figure 18 - Proper Line and Grade of Trench
Lower Hardie Pipe into trench. Hardie Pipe can be laid in either direction as long as care is taken to put the joint together properly and keep debris out of the joint during assembly. It is preferred to face the bell end of pipe in the direction that the pipe is being laid to prevent bedding material from entering the bell during jointing.
Figure 19- Strapping and Pipe Guidance
When assembling pipe, take care to ensure that workers keep hands and clothing clear of joint to prevent injury. 21
Join pipe by inserting the spigot into the bell end at as small of an angle as possible, starting at the top of the pipe, as show in the detail below. Note: By doing this you prevent rolling of gasket.
Figure 20 - Joining of Pipe
Lower pipe to grade and insert remainder of spigot into the bell. Bring pipe home by pulling the cable or strap as shown in the details below.
Figure 21 - Bringing Pipe Home
22
Avoid the use of excavating equipment to push pipe sections together. This can damage the pipe.
Figure 22 - Improper Homing of Pipe
Figure 23 - Improperly Bringing Pipe to Line and Grade
Check for proper line and grade. If pipe grade needs to be raised, Hardie Pipe recommends removing the pipe from the trench and regrade full length of bedding. Lifting up pipe and shoveling dirt/bedding material under the pipe will leave voids and is NOT acceptable. If pipe grade needs to be lowered, Hardie Pipe recommends removing pipe from the ditch and correct the grade. Note: Maintain minimum bedding thickness 23
Once the pipe is set to proper grade, confirm that the gasket has not rolled and is not exposed at the joint.
Figure 24 - Improperly Seated Gasket
Check with Table 9 of the appendix to confirm the joint gap on the outside of the pipe is within tolerance. The remaining backfill material should be placed and compacted around the pipe in accordance with project plans and specifications. To insure that the pipe does not move when installing the next section of pipe, uniformly place and compact soil on each side of the pipe to the specified density to prevent lateral displacement of pipe. Minimum Cover for Construction Loads Do not allow heavy construction or compaction equipment to cross over culvert or storm sewer pipes until placing and compacting backfill material to the finished earthwork grade or to an elevation at least 3-feet above the crown of the pipe, or as noted in project specifications.
24
Connecting Hardie Pipe to Structure/ Manhole When pipe run comes within one section of the pipe to structure interface, take measurement to determine exact length of pipe needed to finish the run. Refer to Table 8 to confirm that the proper sized pipe to structure interface opening has been provided.
Figure 25 - Pipe to Structure Detail
Cut length of pipe to the measurement taken above following the Field Cutting Hardie Pipe section of this guide. Connect pipe to the structure in accordance with engineers plans and specifications. Helpful Hint: Hardie Pipe outside diameters are smaller than steel RCP outside diameters allowing for a smaller hole to be cast into the concrete structure. Consult structure manufacturer to confirm size of structure opening.
25
Differential settlement between the structure or manhole and the pipe may result in damage to the pipe. Therefore, it is important to install the structure or manhole on a solid foundation to eliminate settlement. When connecting Hardie Pipe to a structure or manhole, it is necessary to construct a uniform bedding over the entire length of the pipe barrel to distribute the load-bearing reaction evenly to the bedding over the full length of the pipe barrel. Suspending the pipe over a void created by the excavation around the structure while the pipe is grouted into the side of the structure is not recommended since uniform support to the pipe is not being provided. This lack of support around a structure can result in damage to the pipe. After the structure is set, backfill should be brought up to the invert of the pipe, and then the pipe should be connected to the structure. Note: If there is a possibility of differential settlement between structure and pipe consult with Hardie Pipe. Field Cutting Hardie Pipe Use a cutting device capable of cutting reinforced concrete products. Use appropriate safety precautions when operating saw/blade in accordance with manufacturers recommended practices. Helpful Hint: For quick results, use a diamond tipped blade to cut pipe when using a powered saw. 1. 2. 3. 4. Mark a cut line on the outside of the pipe. Make sure pipe is stable before cutting. Cut length of pipe to the cut line marked. When cutting a length of pipe, it will be necessary to roll the pipe to get access to the entire circumference. After rolling make sure pipe is stable before resuming cutting. Hardie Pipe recommends pipe be chocked.
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Proper safety gear must be worn to protect operator in accordance with applicable safety standards.
Figure 26 - Cutting Pipe
Figure 27 - Improper Cutting (Hammer & Chisel)
Cutting of Hardie Pipe can produce dust that can be harmful if exposed to excessive amounts over an extended period of time. Hardie Pipe recommends that the pipe be cut as follows to help reduce dust exposure levels: 1. When using a powered saw, use saw blades specifically designed for reducing dust generation, such as a low-tooth count blade with polycrystalline diamond-tipped teeth.
2. If using a powered saw, Hardie Pipe recommends using a saw equipped with an effective dust collection or suppression system. 3. Hardie Pipe recommends that cutting occur only in well-ventilated areas, such as open, outdoor environments.
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Hardie Pipe does not recommend cutting in indoor or otherwise poorly-ventilated areas, does not recommend using a dry continuous rim diamond-edged blade when using a power saw, and does not recommend dry sweeping of pipe debris. If exposures exceed the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL), NIOSH-certified respiratory protection must be worn. If uncertain about the appropriate respiratory protection or exposures, consult a qualified industrial hygienist. Warning: AVOID BREATHING SILICA DUST. Hardie Pipe contains silica. Inhalation of respirable silica dust can cause silicosis, a potentially disabling lung disease, and is known to the State of California to cause cancer. When drilling, cutting or abrading Hardie Pipe during installation or handling: (1) Work outdoors where feasible, otherwise use mechanical ventilation, (2) Wear a dust mask or, if dust may exceed PEL use NIOSH approved respirator, (3) Warn others in area. For further information, refer to Material Safety Data Sheet or contact manufacturer by calling 1-877-910-3727.
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Hardie Pipe Warranty Hardie Pipe warrants that its goods are free from manufacturing defects for a period of one year. If any of its goods are proven to be defective, Hardie Pipe will, at its sole option, either supply replacement goods or reimburse the buyer for the purchase price the buyer paid. Whether a buyer's claims are based on negligence, breach of any implied warranty, strict liability, or any other theory at law or in equity, this remedy shall be buyer's sole and exclusive remedy. Hardie Pipe is not liable for any indirect, consequential, economic, loss profits, punitive or exemplary damages of any type, under any circumstances, including those resulting from any manufacturing defect. Submit claims to Hardie Pipe, in writing, within thirty (30) days from date of discovery. State or federal laws may provide the buyer with rights in addition to those in this warranty that cannot be modified or excluded. The recommendations in Hardie Pipe literature (e.g.brochures, printed instructions, etc.), or on its website represent good building practices. However, they are not intended to be an exhaustive statement of all the relevant data, nor are they (or any oral statements made by Hardie Pipe) intended to augment, modify and/or change the terms of this expressed warranty. The terms of this warranty can only be made by Hardie Pipe in writing. Further, there are many factors outside of Hardie Pipe's control (e.g. quality of workmanship, particular design, detail requirements, etc). Hardie Pipe is neither responsible nor liable for any installation, application, or specification factors or decisions made by the buyer, or anyone or any entity acting on the buyer's behalf, which may affect the quality of its goods, the success of any project, or the suitability of its goods to achieve a particular purpose. To this extent, Hardie disclaims all other warranties, express or implied, including any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or any other implied warranties that may be imposed by virtue of the Uniform Commercial Code. 29
Appendix
Hardie Pipe Field Repair Procedures If minor damage to Hardie Pipe occurs during handling or installation, repairs can be made in accordance with the following procedures or in accordance with engineers plans and specifications. Standardized methods for repairing Hardie Pipe are presented to ensure that all surfaces of near contact of the jointed pipes are free from chipped or spalled concrete and other such defects. Pipes showing minor manufacturing imperfections handling injuries to the bell and spigot, or pipe barrel damage may be repaired using methods described below. Case 1 - Cracking or Chipping of the Joint Cracking or chipping that does not affect the sealing area of the joint may be repaired if the affected area meets the following conditions: The chipping or cracking does not affect the ring groove. Cracking may not propagate through the joint wall. The circumferential length of a single area to be repaired shall not exceed one fourth of the inside diameter of the pipe or the circumferential length of several areas combined does not exceed one half of the inside diameter of the pipe. The repair does not reduce the clearance between the bell and spigot sealing surfaces compromising the flexibility of the joint.
30
Procedure 1. Clean the area of all dirt and excess material. 2. Allow the area to dry 3. Apply an epoxy compound suitable for repairing spalled areas on concrete structures as approved by the DOT. 4. Allow epoxy to fully dry 5. Sand and smooth the repaired area to the proper joint specifications Note: Repair should not be attempted if there is any loss of material extending into the gasket groove area. If the bell or spigot is beyond repair, cut the damaged section back to sound, solid material and use this undamaged section of pipe to come into or out of a structure. Case 2 - Puncture Holes Punctures holes may be repaired if no larger than sizes listed below:
Table 4 - Puncture Hole Limits Pipe Puncture Hole Diameter Size Max. (Inches) (Inches) 12 15 18 24 30 36 4 4 6 6 6 6
The size of the hole is measured after the hole has been cut back to sound material. There are two approved methods of repair, either by applying a saddle patch or saddle plug. 31
Procedure A Saddle Patch To apply a saddle patch follow these guidelines: Remove damaged material from the affected area and cut back to sound material then sand smooth. Measure the hole. Using a pipe with an inside diameter as close as possible to the outside diameter of the pipe being repaired, cut a blank saddle approximately 2/3 larger than the hole. Clean the saddle and area to be covered of all dirt and debris. Apply a DOT approved epoxy resin adhesive for bonding hardened concrete to hardened concrete. Place the saddle over hole and secure in place while epoxy cures. Procedure B Saddle and Plug To apply a saddle and plug which gives you an internal flush finish following these guidelines: Remove damaged material from the affected area and cut back to sound material then sand smooth. Measure the hole. From the identical size and class pipe, make a plug approximately 1/4inch smaller than the hole. Using a pipe with an inside diameter as close as possible to the outside diameter of the pipe being repaired, cut a blank saddle approximately 2/3 larger than the hole.
32
Epoxy the plug to the inside of the saddle using a DOT approved epoxy resin adhesive, for bonding hardened concrete to hardened concrete. Clean the saddle and area to be covered of all dirt and debris. Make sure the saddle and area to be covered are dry. Epoxy around the edges of the plug and fit into hole. Secure in place until epoxy cures. Case 3 - Surface Imperfections Surface layer roughness may be repaired, providing that the following criteria are met: The imperfection does not exceed 10% of the pipe wall thickness. The area to be repaired does not exceed 10% of the total pipe surface area. Procedure Use mechanical grinding equipment. Grind at least 1 past the edges of the unaffected area surrounding the repair. Fill area with a coating of a DOT approved epoxy designed for repairing spalled areas on concrete structures. Work should be performed outdoors, wearing and using proper safety equipment. Inform others in the area of the grinding operation.
33
Case 4 - Gouging Gouging that does not exceed 20% of the wall thickness may be repaired. There is no limit to the length of the affected area. Procedure 1. Sand the affected area smooth. 2. Clean all dust and debris from gouged area. 3. Fill gouge with a coating of a DOT approved epoxy designed for repairing spalled areas on concrete structures. 4. Allow epoxy to cure. NOTE: Cracking that occurs along the length of the pipe is not permitted to be repaired.
34
Table 5: Bundling Standards by Diameter & Pipe Class

12 Diameter Pipe
Hardie Pipe is crated as in the following drawings:

90 Dunnage with banding
Minimum 84 Fork Length Required
15 Diameter Pipe
35
18 Diameter Pipe
24 Diameter Pipe
36
30 Diameter Pipe
36 Diameter Pipe
37
Table 6: Pipe Nominal Weight Chart CLASS AND SIZE COMPARISON

PIPE DIAMETER (inches) CLASS HARDIE PIPE CONCRETE PIPE NOMINAL WEIGHT PER FOOT (LBS) STEEL REINFORCED CONCRETE PIPE NOMINAL WEIGHT PER FOOT (LBS)
12
III IV V III IV V III IV V I II III IV V I II III IV V I II III IV V
26 32 40 40 53 63 58 72 91 77 87 103 128 161 120 136 160 200 252 173 196 231 287 362 38
120 120 120 155 155 155 175 175 175 290 290 290 290 290 410 410 410 410 410 563 563 563 563 563
15
18
24
30
36
Table 7: Shipping Specifications
SHIPPING SPECIFICATIONS
PRODUCT CODE SIZE (CLASS III) INSIDE DIAMETER (IN) PIPES PER PIPES PER TRUCK PALLET FT PER LOAD (16 LGTHS)
112500
12
12.0
60
960
115400
15
15.0
45
720
118300
18
18.0
40
640
124300
24
24.0
24
384
130300
30
30.0
15
240
136300
36
36.0
10
160
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Table 8: Nominal Pipe ODs HARDIE PIPE ODs Pipe Diameter 12 Class III IV V III 15 IV V III 18 IV V I 24 II III IV V I 30 II III IV V I 36 II III IV V 40 OD 13.77 14.18 14.70 17.22 17.73 18.37 20.67 21.27 22.05 26.72 27.05 27.56 28.36 29.39 33.39 33.81 34.45 35.45 36.74 40.07 40.57 41.33 42.54 44.09
Table 9: Joint Gap Tolerances HARDIE PIPE GAP ALLOWANCES PIPE DIAMETER GAP ALLOWANCE (mm) GAP ALLOWANCE (in)
12
3/8
15
12
1/2
18
12
1/2
24
20
3/4
30
25
36
25
41
Table 10: Color Code of Center Stripe for Pipe Classes PIPE CLASS 1 CENTER STRIPE COLOR Orange
Blue
Black
Yellow
Red
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Customer Service: 1-877-910-3727 Customer Service Fax: 1-866-329-3727 Customer Service Email: customerservice@hardiepipe.com www.hardiepipe.com
2004 James Hardie Building Products, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. , and denote trademarks and are copyrights owned by James Hardie Research Pty Limited ACN 066 114 092.
Keeping Clean Water Clean and Reducing Mud
Improving Drainage
ith all of the rain Clark County receives, managing rainwater runoff can be a challenge. Installing and/or properly maintaining gutters on your house and outbuildings provides a simple and effective measure of collecting and diverting rainwater, reducing mud and keeping clean water clean (see the fact sheet Managing Roof Runoff).
What can be done with all of the water collected in those gutters? And how do you manage rain that lands on your pastures and other areas? Water owing across pastures, turnouts and dry lots, arenas and other areas can pick up particles of sediment and manure. Nutrients attach to sediment particles and can be transported to nearby waterbodies where they can negatively impact stream health and sh and wildlife. Runoff may also cause erosion and create mud, which can affect the health of your animals and your land. Runoff collecting around foundations of barns and other buildings causes signicant damage over time. Several methods are available to collect and divert rainwater before it reaches pastures, turnouts and buildings reduces mud and standing water, and limits erosion and property damage including french drains, berms, grassy swales or dry wells. French Drains As illustrated in Figure 1, french drains intercept water owing across a slope. They are shallow trenches lined with weed cloth or geotextile fabric, with a perforated plastic pipe surrounded by gravel. The weed cloth is wrapped over the top of the gravel and then covered with soil. The weed cloth prevents soil from lling in the spaces between gravel, maintaining water ow through the gravel. To facilitate water ow, the trench should be sloped between Figure 1: Cross Section of Typcial French Drain 0.5% and 1%. For example, for every 100 feet in distance, a one foot drop in elevation would provide a 1% slope. Aggregate ll French drains can be used to collect runoff owing down a slope or from a gutter system and divert the water around a feature such as a building, turnout, driveway or arena. Rainwater from a single roof can be collected in gutters and the buried downspouts connected to a
Existing Ground
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4 inch perforated PVC / Corrugate Plastic drain pipe
Geotextile or Weed Cloth
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gram
(Doug Stienbarger, 1995)
french drain (Figure 2). A T-shaped pipe can be placed at the end of the french drain outlet to slow the speed of the water, and spread it out over a larger area (Figure 3).
Figure 3. T-shaped Buried Outlet
Perforated CPP for dissapating energy of rainwater
Figure 2: Underground Gutter Outlet

Gutter Downspout End cap Roof Rafter
Solid corrugated plastic pipe (CCP) from gutters/ french drain
20 6 3 Min. 3
Downspout adaptor Geotextile or weed cloth
Downspout support Underground outlet 90 Degree elbow
Plan View
Perforated CPP for dissapating energy of rainwater
(Doug Stienbarger, 1996)

Geotextile or weed cloth T connection
6 14 8
End cap
20 6 3 Min. 3
Dispersion pit lled with 2 inch minus gravel ll lined with geotextile or weed cloth
Solid corrugated plastic pipe from gutters/french drain Perforated CPP for dissapating energy of rainwater
Cross Section (front)
Cross Section (side) (Doug Stienbarger, 1995)
French drains can also be used to collect water draining from adjacent properties and direct it on your property where it will not do any damage. French drains work best if they are not within the groundwater table. Heavy machinery and livestock should be kept off the french drain. They can compact the soil, crush the drainage pipe and damage the drain, thereby blocking water ow and requiring repairs and possibly replacement.
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Berms Berms are low mounds of vegetated soil two to six inches in height. Berms direct and slow the speed of runoff, allowing it a greater chance to inltrate and lter out sediments, nutrients and other materials in the water. Berms can also be used to divert water around a building, or at the base of a slope to direct runoff around an area such as a livestock turnout. Diverting this run-on water around livestock turnouts can greatly reduce mud in these areas.
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gram
Keeping Clean Water Clean and Reducing Mud - Improving Drainage
Grassy swales Swales are shallow, gently sloped vegetated ditches that capture runoff and transport it away from heavy use areas. Swales are commonly planted with grass, which slows down runoff and facilitates inltration and removal of sediment and other particles. Swales can be easily incorporated into the landscape on your property, particularly if there is already a low lying area on your property. Swales are often less expensive to install than some underground drainage systems. Swales should be designed to hold water for no more than 48 to 72 hours to reduce habitat for mosquitoes. If standing water is expected for longer periods of time, wetland plants such as rushes (Juncus spp.), cattails (Typha spp.) or sedges (Carex spp.) can be planted. Maintenance should occur when the soil is not saturated to prevent compaction, which can limit inltration of runoff. Cuttings should be removed to prevent smothering of the vegetation. Grazing of these areas may be possible, but should be controlled to maintain healthy vegetation. Do not graze during initial vegetation establishment, when the soil is wet or during reseeding of bare areas. Grass height should be maintained at no less than 3 to 4 inches tall. Shorter grass does not provide adequate erosion protection. Bare or eroded spots should be repaired and reseeded. The swale should not be used as a track or roadway. Frequent trafc may damage the swale and create ruts, which can concentrate water ow and eventually result in erosion and the formation of gulleys. Dry wells Directing downspouts into drywells can help facilitate inltration of water into the surrounding soil and prevent it from picking up sediment from the surface. A dry well is a small pit lined with geotextile fabric or weed cloth and lled with 1 to 3 gravel. Dry wells are best used to collect runoff from a small area with little or no sediment or pollutants, such as stormwater from a roof. Soils surrounding the dry well should be sufciently permeable to allow adequate inltration of the runoff. The dry well should be designed to completely drain the water volume into the soil within 48 hours of the rain event. An overow may be needed to handle large amounts of runoff. Dry wells are relatively small and because they are underground, do not take up much space. They can be installed out of the way, provided the dry well can be easily accessed for maintenance. Locate dry wells at least 10 feet from building foundations and at least 75 feet from wells, septic systems and surface water bodies. Permits Moving soil around on your property to build a french drain, drywell, berm or swale may require a grading permit if more than 50 cubic yards or more of material is moved. More information is available in the fact sheet Frequently Asked Questions: What Can You Do On Your Land? Before beginning any work, contact Clark County Community Development at 360-397-2375 x 4347.
All of these drainage structures can help you manage runoff on your property, reduce mud and erosion, allow runoff water to inltrate and recharge groundwater and maintain healthy water quality in Clark County surface waters.
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gram
Sources: Alameda Countywide Clean Water Program (ACCWP). Grassy Swales Fact Sheet. From: ACCWP Catalog of Control Measures. n.d., 4 pp. http://www.oaklandpw.com/creeks/pdf/Grassy_Swales.pdf Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development. Grassed Waterway Construction. Agdex # 5736. n.d., 3 pp. http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex795/$le/5736.pdf?OpenElement Connecticut Bureau of Water Management. Dry Wells. Connecticut Stormwater Quality Manual. 2004, 4 pp. http://dep.state.ct.us/wtr/stormwater/manual/CH11_DW_S-5.pdf Houston Landscape Images. Grading and Drainage Work. n.d., 4 pp. http://www.houstonlandscape. com/Drainage.htm McVay, K.A., G.M. Powell and R. Lamond. Maintaining Grass Waterways. Kansas State University, MF-1064. April 2004, 3 pp. http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/crpsl2/mf1064.pdf Pfost, D.L. and L. Caldwell. Maintaining Grassed Waterways. University of Missouri Extension, G1504. October 1999, 3 pp. http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/agengin/g01504. htm
For additional information on managing roof runoff and drainage, contact: Washington State University Clark County Extension 11104 NE 149th Street C 100 Brush Prairie WA 98606 360-397-6060 extension 7720 http://clark.wsu.edu/ Clark Conservation District 11104 NE 149th Street C 400 Brush Prairie WA 98606 360-883-1987 extension 110 http://clark.scc.wa.gov/ USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 11104 NE 149th Street C 400 Brush Prairie WA 98606 360-883-1987 extension 3 http://www.wa.nrcs.usda.gov/
Adapted by Erin Harwood, WSU Clark County Extension (September 2005).
The Small Acreage Program is sponsored in partnership by WSU Extension Clark County, the Clark County Clean Water Program, and the Clark Conservation District.
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Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. Report evidence of noncompliance to your local Extension ofce.
gram

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Members of the Foundation Repair Association

Foundation Repair Information

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Gutters And Downspouts

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Vegetation And Trees

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Plumbing Leak Repairs

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Reinforcing Steel Exposure

Brick, Rock Or Cladding Cracks

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Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

- " . . . as he suggests . . .", not " . . . and he suggests . . ."

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

Earthwork/grading engineering - French Drains

work until you see what outside work does.

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Foolproof Cure for

Barrier System vs. Water Management

Foolproof Cure for Wet Basements

DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 2

Installing the Sump

Foolproof Cure for Wet Basements

Basement Interior Drain

Discharge pipe Existing footing

Existing block wall

Drilled weep holes

Airtight floor drain

WaterGuard drain outlet adapter

Perforated sump basket Pump stand

DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 4

Running the Discharge Line

DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 5

Foolproof Cure for Wet Basements

DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 6

DECEMBER 2005 I JLC I 7

Gable Roof Runoff

Hip Roof Runoff

Roof runoff falls to ground at eaves

Concentrated runoff at valley and dormer

Concentrated runoff at valley and dormer

MARCH JLC 1999

Downspout with Sloped Leader

2" to 4" clay cap over backfill

Downspout with Catch Basin

Solid pipe, drain to daylight or drywell

MARCH JLC 1999