13th Issue Vol. 2 No.

10 ISSN 2094-1765 October 2009

CULTIVATION OF THE SHOWY HIBISCUS

by Norberto Bautista

There are now an influx of new

Hibiscus hybrids in the plant
market, with large 5 inches wide
flowers. Gumamela, or Hibiscus
rosa-sinensis L. was named by
Linnaeus in 1753 and belongs to
plant family Malvaceae, It is also
commonly known as Chinese
hibiscus, Shoe flower (due to the
fact it is used as a shoe polisher),
and its scientific name literally
means China Rose. This plant is a
tropical evergreen flowering shrub
native to East Asia and the genus is
composed of about 220 species.
Other hibiscus species are
distributed in almost all continents
except Antarctica . Hibiscus is
widely grown as an ornamental
plant throughout the tropics, usually
a common garden plant, and with
some medicinal properties. It is related to Okra, Durian, cocoa and cotton.

The new Hibiscus hybrids have

flowers that are large, firm, scentless,
and colors range from red, orange,
yellow, pink, white and light blue.
Flowers are either composed of single
or double sets of petals. There are
now numerous varieties and hybrids
available. The flowers are
distinctively known to produce nectar,
which attracts its bird pollinators, and
also children, who oftentimes sip
nectar from the base of the plucked
flowers once detached from its sepal.

In 1998, Rey Pimentel of the Institute

of Plant Breeding, University of the
Philippines at Los Baños, introduced
ten new hibiscus hybrids, honoring the
centennial celebration of Philippine
independence. The plants were
named after heroines of the country.
Pimentel had previously brought in new varieties from Australia. He has again, produced ten new

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hibiscus hybrids called the Millennium plants. He has named them after Philippine women
scientists, mostly from the University of the Philippines. Pimentel has been in the forefront in
encouraging people to raise hibiscus.

Hibiscus rosa-
sinensis is the City
Flower of Manila,
national flower of
Malaysia and the
state flower of
Hawaii. Hibiscus
flower preparations
are used for hair
care, as shoe polish
and the flowers
themselves are
edible and used in
salads. Children
usually play with this
flowers as they crush
the flowers in water
to produce a soapy
solution, which are
then used to make
instant bubble
balloons.

Cultural Requirements:

Light. Hibiscus loves bright light and are usually grown exposed to direct full sun.

Watering. Water plants moderately, but allowing the top half inch of the potting media to
dry out between watering.

Fertilization. Though home gardeners do not usually fertilize their plants, it is

recommended to apply half-teaspoon complete fertilizer 14-14-14 and half-teaspoon muriate of
potash per gallon of water and drench about 100 ml (1 drinking glass) of this solution per 6 inch
pot or for every plant every two weeks. This is to ensure that the plant will continuously flower and
will have vigorous growth. About half teaspoon of controlled release fertilizers or organic fertilizers
like vermicompost or fully-decomposed chicken manure can also be applied for added nutrients.

Potting and Repotting. Use soil-base potting mix composed of 1:1:1 garden soil:
compost : sand in clay or plastic pots.

Control of Pest and Diseases.

Hibiscus is susceptible to sucking insects like white flies, aphids and scales. They can
be controlled by spraying with insecticides like Lannate or Sevin.when infestations occur.
Hibiscus is also a favorite host of certain Lepidopterous larvae (caterpillars of butterflies and
moths) which defoliate or damage their leaves. Weekly spraying of fungicides like Captan or
Dithane can be applied as a prophylactic once the rainy season arrives in order to control leaf
spots, and rotting.

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Hibiscus plants, especially newer cultivars, have very few flowers during the rainy season, which
extends from June to October. This is a good time to prune the hibiscus plants. After the rain, the
plants start blooming profusely.

Propagation.
Shoot tip cuttings. – Hibiscus is commonly propagated through shoot tip cuttings. 4-inch shoot
tips are cut, and its base are inserted into potting medium composed of 1:1:1 garden soil,
compost and sand in plastic pots. Place about 15-20 cuttings in a 6” pot, and cover with plastic to
maintain humidity and in a bright filtered light. Dipping the base of the stem cutting in rooting
hormone will facilitate rooting. Moist the media regularly, making sure that it does not dry out.
Cuttings will root within 3 weeks. Once rooted, the plastic bag covering the seedlings can be
removed and drenching of fertilizer solution can be applied, as well as regular watering. After 3
weeks, plants can be potted individually.

Air-layering or Marcotting. – a small band of wound (about half inch length) is made on the
bark of the stem where you want roots to be induced. Sterile moist coconut coir dust or
sphagnum moss is placed on the wound area and then is covered by plastic. Roots usually arise
within 3-4 weeks. Once roots arise, the cutting can be separated from the mother plant and
planted on a pot with potting medium.

Seeds. Gumamela flowers can be pollinated to produce seed capsules. Seeds from mature seed
capsules are usually mature in 6-14 weeks after pollination and can be germinated on plastic pots
with potting mixture, and plants usually flower after 6-18 months from germination. Oftentimes,
these crosses are sterile, but some are fertile, further increasing the complexity of variability and
the possibility of a virtually unlimited number of eventual Hibiscus rosa-sinensis varieties. The
pod could contain anywhere between zero and 60 seeds.

Grafting. Selected hybrids can grafted into rootstock varieties which has been proven to be
resistant to soil borne problems and have strong root system. Grafting could also facilitate
propagation of hard to root varieities.

A Unique Thai-Bali Landscape Design

at Mega Orchids, MSBF Compound, Quezon City
By Norberto Bautsita

Landscaping is the art and

science of rearranging plants,
rocks, sculptures, trees in an
existing area, making it look
attractive and at the same time
functional. Pathways, lighting,
drainage and areas for
recreation is included in the
overall design to provide an a
wholesome appearance to the
once dull or monotonous garden
landscape.

If you are looking some

particular garden design tips,
one could visit the show area of
the Mega Orchids at the Manila
Seedling Bank Foundation along
Quezon Avenue corner EDSA in

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Quezon City . It is owned by Ms. Cynthia Isidro, a well known grower of Dendrobium orchids from
Bulacan.

She used Bali or Thai stone and

ceramic sculptures in her
landscape, making her store very
appealing and attractive to orchid
buyers as well as children. Then,
stones and pebbles are
incorporated in order to cover or
hold the soil and stepping stones
are placed in the pathway.
Colorful bromeliads, aglaonema,
sanseviera, philodendrons,
dendrobium orchids, and birds
nest ferns are inserted among the
stone sculptures, making it a truly
splendid garden. Some areas of
the ground are covered with
mundo grass in order to hide the

soil. There are also stone tables and chairs with umbrellas to provide shade. Ponds or stone
basins with floating lettuce lily are found on corners to provide humidity to plants. Metal chimes
are also hung among the sides of the garden to provide the tickling and clinging sound of metal in
the surrounding.

For tall plants, palms, tree ferns are used in the back of the garden to provide background plants.
Large hanging staghorn ferns are suspended along the post or ceiling of the garden.

The garden seems lively due to various shapes of stone sculptures like smiling frogs, singing
children, small playful elephants, storks, round marble eggs, praying Chinese children and a

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touch of Buddhism. Most of the statues used are collections, not to mention other Thai garden
artifacts which will blend well in a well-planned garden
One could really enjoy and learn a lot of garden design tips when you visit this garden. It is open
to the public for free.

THE PHILIPPINE GRANDE STAGHORN FERN

by: Adrian S. Go

Among the native plant

species of the
Philippines, the “Grande”
Staghorn Fern or the
Platycerium grande is a
real showstopper! So
intriguing and unique, the
plant resembles like a
huge “Man-of-War”
jellyfish hanging onto the
upper branches of trees.
Some huge specimens
reported to reach over 15
feet in length! Most
notable were the
specimens at the Davao
Shrine (El Santo Niño
Del Prague) and the
Philippine Eangle’s Park
of Davao City in
Mindanao.
The Philippine Grande Staghorn Fern or Platycerium grande with pendent fertile fronds.

Habitat & Distribution. Platycerium grande belongs to the fern group. It grows as an epiphyte,
meaning tree dwelling and attaching itself onto the upper branches of trees to receive bright
filtered light and moderate air circulation.

This specimen can still be found along the eastern portion of the Mindanao and Visayan islands.
It has a wide distribution in the Agusan, Cotobato and Davao provinces.

Plant Structure. The Philippine “Grande” Staghorn Fern has interesting features, which includes:
short rhizome stem, large leafy growths and fibrous roots. The leafy growths are in two distinct
forms and are positioned in pairs arising near the apex of the rhizome. These are arranged
alternately each one becoming larger, basically covering or replacing the previous one. The two
different leafy fronds are as follows:

a. Shield Fronds. These leafy fronds are held sideways and upright. Each one developing
alternately, slowly but eventually almost completely covering or replacing the older frond,
leaving the top in an open basket form. This way, the falling leaves and other organic
debris are caught inside the basket, forming the shield frond. Oftentimes, the enclosed
older frond decays and becomes part of the organic compost pile within the shield frond.
The organic matter becomes the source of nourishment and is needed by the plant to
root extensively. The clasping shield frond conserves the water inside and maintains it for
a long time between the layers of fronds, roots and organic debris. This plant species has
evolved in such a way that it has developed a system of water conservation and how to

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 obtain nutrients even in long dry periods. Each shield frond can reach up to 2 meters long
and 1.5 meters wide.

b. Fertile Fronds. These are branching leafy fronds that are held pendently on a semi-
circular stance. Each frond develop alternately and slowly also replacing the previous one
usually during the months of May, June and July. The fertile frond initially produces 2
main branches that produces a secondary branch wherein 2 sporangial patches are
located (underneath the surface). There are up to 6 or more further branching of the
fronds producing ribbon-like effect. The overall length of a fertile frond may reach over 3
meters. The sporangial patches would mature in 3-4 months and it usually turn dark
brown in color. The sporangia will then eject into the air several thousands of tiny dust-
like spores.

Over-all, the plant really resembles like a green “Man-of-War jellyfish that hangs on tree
branches.
How the Spore
Germinates. Once
ejected from the parent
plant, the spores takes
flight as it gets carried by
the wind. If the spore
lands where there is
ample moisture and light,
it germinates into a tiny
heart-shaped plant, one
cell layer thick, 1 cm in
diameter, which is called
a prothallus. At the same
time, it produces tiny
root-like extensions
called rhizoids to anchor
itself in place.

After 3 months, the

prothallus develops
several female organs
called archegonia, each
containing a single egg,
and a male organ called
antheridia, each
containing several
sperms. When water
moistens the prothallus,
the film of water on its
surface and underneath
help the sperm swim
directly to the eggs and
fertilize them.

Within a few days, several new growths start to develop on the prothallus depending on how
many egg cells were fertilized. Each growth will take on nourishment from the prothallus until it
produces its own roots. The first few leaves produced look like the seed leaves of other plants,
and do not appear like the parent plant’s but eventually new leaves will form closely resembling
those of the adult plant. When the plant already has approximately 8-10 leaves and several roots,

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 it can be detached from
the prothallus and the
rest of the young plants
as it can be planted
individually.

Photo (left) shows a still

very young staghorn fern
plantlet clasping a tree
fern slab. NOTE the
clasping behavior of its
shield frond around the
tree fern slab.

Growing Conditions.
Platycerium grande
plants are highly
adaptable to a much
wider range of
conditions and are
grown successfully out
of its habitat. The plants
thrive well in many
gardens and nurseries
in the Philippines and
abroad. The plant will
continue to thrive as
long as it is provided
with 50% of filtered
sunlight, 50-70%
humidity, temperature of
70-89 oF and regular
watering. Make sure
that the root base is
firmly attached onto a tree branch so it may soon produce several root mesh that will anchor the
periodically water-filled plants. It is necessary to keep humus and other organic materials inside
the shield so that the plant will regularly receive nourishment. Occasional or regular feeding of
nutrients fertilizer would of course produce a more robust or vigorous growth of fronds and roots.
Water the plant well inside the shield fronds and roots.

Hang this fern species to at least 8 to 10 feet above the ground to allow the pendent fertile fronds
to develop and extend fully without getting bruised by other plants below. Elevate the plant up
further if the fertile fronds are nearly touching the ground.

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 Admiring the Doñas
by Ma. Eloisa E. Hernandez

The Philippines is proud to have notable ladies who have considerably contributed to the task of
nation building. Among them are President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, former President Corazon
C. Aquino,

First Ladies Amelita Ramos and Imelda R. Marcos. Today, such names are not only synonymous
with political prestige but are now Hybrid names for indigenous species, Mussaenda.

Collectively known as the Doñas, Philippine Mussaendas were named after the First Ladies of the
Philippines. This is considered as the country’s most important contribution to the ornamental
industry.

They are likewise regarded as the “centennial” breakthrough in Philippine Horticulture. In fact,
they have became popular not only in the Philippines but are also now gaining recognition
abroad.

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 Characteristic of Mussaendas

The first Mussaenda, M. philippica var.

aurorae Sulit, was named in honor of the wife
of President
Manuel L. Quezon,. In 1915, Hugh Curran and
Mamerto Sulit discovered it in Mt. Makiling in
UP Los Baños. Recent hybrids were now
coined on Filipino synonyms of the word
“muse” such as ‘Diwata’, ‘Mutya’, ‘Lakambini’,
and ‘Diyosa’.

The “Doñas” are admired for their colorful

sepals or modified leaves either in red, white,
or pink. Also, the hybrid possesses continuous
blooming habit, almost throughout the year.
They are less floriferous from months of January to March. They are commonly used for
landscape.

Potted Mussaendas

With the idea of coming-up with a substitute or compliment to the poinsettias which grow only
during the Christmas season, the Institute of Plant Breeding of the College of Agriculture (IPB-
CA), University of the Philippines Los Baños (UPLB), developed a technology for potted
Mussaendas and propagating varieties that are short-stemmed, proliferous, and easy-to-root.

The study on the Development of Colored Multi-Petaloid Mussaendas Suited for Potted
Ornamentals, conducted by Dr. Simeona V. Siar of IPB, aimed to develop indigenous
ornamentals such as Mussaenda as substitute and alternative to the traditional and introduced
potted ornamentals such as poinsettias and chrysanthemum. This included the: (1) hybridization
and development of outstanding plants; and (2) evaluation and mass propagation of outstanding
plants.

The Bureau of Agricultural Research (BAR), a coordinating and funding agency supporting R&D
breakthroughs in agriculture and fisheries, supported the study from October 2001 to September
2002 and from February to December 2006 under its High-impact projects.

Mussaenda cultivars used in the hybridization stage include varieties of red (’Doña Eva’, ‘Doña
Trining’, ‘Lakambini’, and ‘Florida’), white (’Mutya’, ‘Doña Aurora’, ‘Diwata’ and ‘Maria Makiling’),
and the colored varieties (’Baby Aurora’, ‘Doña Pacencia’, ‘Queen Sirikit’, and ‘Doña Esperanza’).

Protocol in producing potted flowering Mussaenda

1. Harvest flower initials from 6 to 7 am or late afternoon. Healthy shoot tips should be 4-5 inches
long and with 3-5 nodes.
2. Put the harvested shoots in clear plastic bag to avoid desiccation.
3. Remove older leaves and leave two to three pairs of nodal leaves.
4. Cut the basal end of the cuttings diagonally with a sharp pruning shear.
5. Dip the basal end portion of cuttings in a rooting hormone, Quick Root powder.
6. Plant two to three cuttings in four-inch pots with a mixture of part coir dust and one-half part
sand.
7. Apply one tablespoon Osmocote (a slow release fertilizer).