UNIT V

COSMETICS
V.MANIMARAN
LECTURER
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS
SRM COLLEGE OF PHARMACY

GENERAL
Theskinoftheinfantandtheadultdiffersboth
histologicalandphysiologicallyinmanyrespects
Itislesshairy,thinnerandlesscornifiedininfants
Thereistendencytowardspeelingandflakingof
skinduringfirst3weeksafterbirth
Sebaceousglandsarepresentinthenewbornand
startfunctioningearly.

 Sebaceousglandsarepresentinthenewborn
andstartfunctioningearly
Beingcomparativelythin,skinofinfantis
expectedtobemorepermeabletotopical
agentsapplied
Theyaremainlyconcernedwithkeepingthe
babyclearandcomfortable

FUNCTIONAL
REQUIREMENTSOF
BABYPRODUCTS

Fromtheforegoingaccountitappearsthatmostskin
problemsinbabiesoccurbecauseofwrappingof
themintightlyfittinggarmentsprovidingwarmand
stagnantenvironmentforgrowthbacteria
Fromthefunctionalpointofview,babyskincare
productshouldprotectbabyskinfromhostile
environmentbycleaningtheskinthoroughlyfrom
sebum,grimeandexcreta

 Thereisnodearthofexpertopinionsonthebest
methodofcleaningbutmanyofthemare
contradictoryandconfusing
Thetypesofproductswhichareavailableforbabies
aresameasthatforadults,e.g.,soap,oils,lotions,
etc.
Manyformulationsaretemptedtoincludea
germicidalinbabyskinproducts,commonexamples
beingcetylpyridiniumchlorideandbenzethonium
chloride

BABYOIL

Thoughthereissomeevidencethatoilsused
andgreasymaterialscan,byoccludingthe
skinsurface,predisposeinfantstopricklyheat
,butsurprisinglybabyoilremainsapopular
product

 Intheformulationsofbabyoil,bland
vegetableoilslikegroundnutoil,lanolin
derivativesandsomehigheralcoholscanbe
used
Themostpopularbrandsofbabyoilscontain
mineraloilofhighpuritywithoutperfumeor
atraceofperfumewithsolubilizer

 Formulae1,2,3areexamplesofproducts
containingmineraloilonly,vegetableoiland
mixtureofmineraloilandvegetableoil.
FORMULA1
mineraloil100.00

FORMULA2
Groundnutoil100.00
Antioxidantq.s.
FORMULA3
Mineraloil60.00
Groundnutoil40.00
Antioxidantq.s.

BABYCREAMANDLOTIONS

Traditionallybabycreamsandlotionscanbe
preparedbyusingtriethanolaminestearate,
ananionicemulsifier.
Formula4areexamplesofthistypeof
products

FORMULA4
Mineraloil25.0
Lanolin1.5
Stearicacid1.0
Triethanolamine0.5
Stearylalcohol0.5
Cetylalcohol0.5
Sodiumalginate0.3
Watertomake100.0
Preservativesq.s.

 Nonionicemulsifiersbasedonsorbitolcan
alsobeusedinbabycreamandlotions
Formula5areexamplesofthistypeof
products

FORMULA5
Mineraloil35.0
Lanolin1.5
Cetylalcohol1.0
Sorbitanoleate2.0
Polysorbate805.0
Dimethecone5.0
Watertomake100.0
Preservativesq.s.

 Polyoxyethylenesorbitanlanolinderivatives
arethroughtobefairlymild
Thesehavebeenusedinbabyproducts
Formula6illustratesuseofpolyoxyethylene
sorbitanlanolinderivatives

FORMULA6
Mineraloil20.0
Stearicacid10.0
Beeswax3.0
Lanolin1.0
PEG20sorbitanlanolate5.0
PEG40sorbitanlanolate1.0
Sorbitol10.0
Watertomake100.0
Preservativesq.s.

 Emulsifierbasedonsucroseestersofpalmitateand
stearicacidsaremildandnontoxic
Theseareavilableoverseasunderthetradename
crodestas
Crodestasareadmixturesofdi andtriestersof
sucrose
Formula7illustratesababylotionandformula8
illustratesababycream

FORMULA7
Mineraloil24.8
CrodestaF703.0
CrodestaF1600.5
Hydroxyethylcellulose0.2
Watertomake100.0
Preservativesq.s.

formula8
Mineraloil32.0
Cetearylalcohol0.5
Petroleumjelly5.0
Lanolinalcohol1.0
Crodestaformula1103.0
Glycerin2.5
Watertomake100.0
Preservativesq.s.

 Antisepticbabylotionandcreamcanbeprepared
usingcationicquaternaryammoniumcompounds
likepyridiniumchloride
Lotionsandcreamsinvariablycontainsmallamount
offreefattyacids
Thesefreefattyacidswillinactivecationiccompound
onamolecularbasis
Thereafteranexcessofquaternarycompoundis
required
Itmaybecalculatedfromacidvalueoftheoilyphase

BABYPOWDER
Thesepowdersareintendedtomaketheinfantfeel
morecomfortableandtohelppreventskinrashes
thatarisefromoraggravatedbyexcessmoisture
Mainingredientsarestearates,colloidalclaystarch
andtalc
Thesepowdersareusuallyonlylightlyperfumedand
notperfumedatall
Thesepowdersarefreefromboricacid

Intheabsenceofanyreproducible
methodoftestforabsenceofgritthe
followingmethodmaybeused
Take20gsampleofmaterialinabeaker
Removebyoverflowunderacarefullycontrolled
steadystreamofwateralargerportionofmaterial
Thegritbeingheavierwillremaininthebeakeralong
withsomepowder
Testtheresidueinbeakerbyrubbingbetweenthe
fingerandthumbforthepresenceofgrit

 Ifgritispresentthenthegivensamplefails
thetestandviceversa
Babypowdershallbefreefromglitcolouring
matterandmaybebufferedtocontrolpH

Determinationofmatter
insolubleinboiling
water
PROCEDURE
Weigh1gofmaterial(wetwithrectifiedspirit)
Add200mlofwater,boil,allowtosettle
Filter(goochcrucible)
Washtheresiduewithwaterdryat1052 c
toaconstantmass

 Matterinsolubleinboilingwaterpresentby
mass=M/M*100
M=massingoftheresidue
M=massingofmaterialtakenfortest

DETERMINATIONOF
FINENESS:2.5(75),
0.5(150)

PROCEDURE
10gofmaterialplacedinthespecified15
sieve
Washwithslowstreamofrunningtapwater
Drythesievecontainingresidueonsteam
bath
Drytheresiduetoaconstantmassat1052c

 Materialretainedonthespecifiedsieve
presentbymass=M/M*100
M=massingoftheresidueretainedonthe
specifiedsieve
M=massingofthematerialtakenforthe
test

DETERMINATIONOFPH
OFAQ.
SUSPENSION:5.58.0

10gofmaterialin150mlbeaker
Addfreshlyboiledandcooledwaterstirwell
DeterminethePHofsuspensionusingPH
meterwithin5mts

DETERMINATIONOF
MOISTUREAND
VOLATILEMATTER:2.0

PROCEDURE
5gofmaterialdryinhotairovenat
temp:1052ctoconstantmass
Moistureandvolatilematterpercentby
mass=M/M*100

TESTFORARSENIC:20
PROCEDURE
2gofsampleincinerateabout2hrsforat550c
Treatwithmixtureof5mlconcsulphuricacidandaddnitric
acid
Taketofumesonhotplatecoolandagaintaketofumeswith
hydrofluoricacid
Coolanddissolveinwaterupto100ml
Fromabovetake50ml
Carryouttestforarsenic
Usingforcomparisionstainobtainedwith0.002mgofAS2O3

BABYSOAP

Babysoapshallpossessgoodcleaningand
latheringproperties,isnormallyamixtureof
alkalisaltsoflongchainfattyacids.
Triglyceridesforexampletallow,palmoiland
coconutoil,providethebasicfatsfrom
whichthefattyacidmixtureusedforsoapare
derived

 Thefinishedsoappropertiesareprimarilydependenton
themixtureandratiooftriglyceridesused.
Tallow,forexample,givesamuchhardersoapthan
coconutoil.
Potassiumsoaparemuchsofterthantheirsodiumbased
counterparts,although,inpractice,theyarerarelyused.
Thefinishedsoapbarcanbemodifiedbytheadditionof
otheringredients.
Suchasemollientsopacifiersandchelatingagent.

DETERMINATIONOF
NICKEL:NILL
REAGENTS:NaoH,CONC.Hcl,dimethylglyoximesoln,saturatedbrominewater.
PROCEDURE
ISOLATIONOFMETALFROMSOAP

50gofsoapdissolveinhotwater

Add40mlofconc.Hcl,heatuntilfattyacidlayerseparates

Add20gparaffinwax,stirrandallowtosettlecooltoroomtemp

Removewaxcake,rinsewithwater,addrinsingstoaq.Phaseofevaporateto60ml

Makeupto100ml(testsoln

DETERMINATIONOF
NICKELCONTENT

Take50mlofaliquot(evaporateto15ml)
Add3mlbrominewater(1mts)
Add5mlliquorammonia(pptformed)
Filter,add10mldimethylglyoximesolnandadd15
20ml95%ethanol
Keptfor5mtsfordevelopmentofcolour
Thesampleshallbeconsideredtohavepassedthe
testifnopinkcolourdevelops

DETERMINATIONOF
IRON:10ppm
REAGENTS:liquorammonia,sulphuricacid,citric
acid,thioglycollicacid,stdironsoln,methylred
indicator
PROCEDURE
5mloftestsoln(metalsareisolatedfromsoap)
Add4mlcitricacidadd0.02mlmethylred+liquor
ammonia(yellowcolour)

Add3mlliq.ammoniainexcess
Coolandadd3mlthioglycollicacid
Makeupto25ml,filter
Measureabsorbanceat540nmusingwateras
blank
Preparecalibrationcurvewithstdfromsoln
anddetermineironcontentofsoapsample
fromit

DETERMINATIONOF
COPPER:3ppm
REAGENTS:stdcoppersoln,zincdibenzyldithiocarbonate+25mlsulphuricacid
PROCEDURE

20mlaliquot+10mlzincdibenzyldithiocarbonate+25mlsulphuricacidshakefor1min

Collectthelowerccl4layerinavf

Washtheaq.Layerwithccl4layerinavf

Makeupthevolume,absorbanceat435nm

Preparecalibrationcurvewithstdcoppersoln

Determinethecoppercontentofsoapsamplefromcurve