PROJECT

BEGINNER | METAL/TOOLS
Forge
Your Own
Carving
Tools
Cold-forge steel rod to create
customized tools that fit your hand.
by Pixie A. Eslinger
H
ave you ever looked for a tool for a specific task and realized that
you dont have anything like it? Forging your own wax-carving tools
is fun, quick, and it allows you to make tools specific to your needs.
In this project, I cold-work mild steel rod by using a heavy hammer, which
is easier than it sounds! Ill be creating a straight scraper, but the forging
principles are the same for most common wax-carving tools, so experiment
to make tools that work for you.
And because any maker can tell you that the perfect tool for the job might
just be a tool that was originally designed for another job entirely (how many
classic jewelers tools were nabbed from a dentists kit?), I encourage you to
look beyond wax. These carving tools would work equally well for carving
polymer, unfired metal clay, or even plastics.
2013 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced
in any form without permission from the publisher. www.ArtJewelryMag.com 1
materials
1
8 in. (3 mm) weldable mild steel rod,
68 in. (15.220.3 cm) per tool
toolboxes
www.artjewelrymag.com/
toolboxes
Hammering
additional tools & supplies
12-lb. combination cross-peen/
flat-face hammer
3-lb. sledge hammer (optional)
Half-round hand file
Micro-finishing film, various grits
Flat diamond lap (optional)
suppliers
Cutting and polishing tools: Rio Grande
(www.riogrande.com)
Hammers and steel rod: Local hardware
or auto supply store
See Safety Basics at www.artjewelrymag.
com/howto.
BASICS & VIDEOS
Learn fundamental techniques
in these bonus tutorials:
Finishing

Basics, www.artjewelrymag.com/howto
Videos, www.artjewelrymag.com/videos
Cut the rod to length. Purchase mild
steel rod: You will be carving wax, not
stones, so there is no need for tool steel.
The easiest source is to buy weldable
steel rod from your local hardware store,
but you can also use heavy-gauge wire
coat hangers (the type dry cleaners use
when returning your freshly laundered
curtains). Make sure that you dont use
zinc-plated (galvanized) steel, as it can
give off fumes when it is heated, leading
to a condition called metal fume fever.
When in doubt, ask a store employee.
Use a jewelers saw, hacksaw, or bolt
cutters to cut a 68 in. (15.220.3 cm)
piece of
1
8-in. (3 mm) weldable steel rod.
The length should be long enough to feel
comfortable in your hand, but short enough
to fit comfortably in your toolbox. Longer
tools also allow the possibility of being
double-ended, so bear that in mind when
planning your tools.
www.ArtJewelryMag.com 2
Make the round stock square. Place
the steel rod on a steel bench block or the
face of an anvil. Use a the flat face of a 3-lb.
sledge hammer or a 12-lb. cross-peen
hammer to strike approximately
1
2 in.
(13 mm) of the rods end [1]. Rotate the
rod 90 and strike again. Repeat, rotating
the rod back and forth between the two
sides until the rod appears square when
viewed from the end [2].

NOTE: The heavier the hammer, the faster
the process, but it should not take more
than a few blows on each side. Dont strike
too hard; forging the metal too fast can
distort or crack it.
Flare the end of the rod. Hold a cross-
peen hammer parallel to the rod, and
strike the center of the squared end [3].
This forces the edges of the rod outward.
Pivot the hammer slightly clockwise and
strike, then counterclockwise and strike
again. Repeat to create a flare [4]. Continue
working until the width of the flare is slightly
wider than your desired finished tool width.
Planish the flared end. Use a planishing
hammer to smooth the marks left by the
cross-peen hammer [5]. Ideally, your steel
block and planishing hammer should have
flat, polished surfaces that leave a smooth
finish on both sides of the flared end [6].
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6
safety first
When striking steel on steel, safety concerns come into play primarily,
eye and hearing protection.
Get a good pair of safety glasses with side shields. If you need prescription
corrective eyewear, buy safety glasses that will fit over other eyewear, or dole
out the money to get a pair of prescription safety glasses. If all you need are
readers, there are safety glasses with built-in readers available.
Having safety glasses is only half the battle, though. Keeping them in good
condition and readily available makes it much more likely that youll actually
use them. Scratched, dirty, or low-quality glasses that are hard to see out of,
or glasses that are stored all the way across the studio, are much less likely
to be used than well-maintained glasses that are within easy reach.
Hearing protection is another area where we tend to be lackadaisical. Even if
you dont feel pain, sharp or loud repetitive noises can cause hearing damage
in a short time. Take a few seconds to put in earplugs or put on protective
hearing protection. It can save you a lot of hearing loss and save you the
time youd spend kicking yourself later!
www.ArtJewelryMag.com 3
hammers!
Having never met a tool I didnt like, I have
quite a selection of hammers everything
from flea market finds to state-of-the-art, high-
end hammers.
In this article, I suggest using several different hammers, but
they dont need to be expensive ones. If you can afford them, by
all means: Buy, use, and love high-quality hammers from your jewelry
supplier. But if finances are tight, go to a junk-tool store and get yourself a
cross-peen hammer with a flat face (generally in the automotive body-
work section). If you cant find this combination, then get a regular
cross-peen hammer and pick up a small sledge hammer (about 3 lb.) at
the same store. The upside of the extra purchase is that the extra weight
of the sledge hammer will make the initial forging go faster.
Whether you get your hammers from the junk-tool store or buy mid-
quality ones from a jewelry supplier, you may need to refine them.
High-quality hammers are finely finished with rounded corners and a
high polish, but antique and mid-quality hammers will likely need some
work. For this project, the cross-peen hammer needs to be rounded from
the front to the back of the peen; I also like mine to have a slight curve
from side to side. Additionally, the edges on the face should be lightly
rounded so they dont leave marks on your metal. The planishing hammer
should have a flat face with rounded edges and a high polish.
To shape low to mid-quality hammers, use a coarse file to rough in the
shape, then switch to small diamond hones to refine the finish (although
micro-finishing film or sandpaper works just as well). I use aluminum
oxide polishing compound on a tight-weave muslin buff to create a nice
mirror finish.
High-quality hammers are likely made from hardened tool steel. They
generally dont need reshaping but if they do, youll need to use a
grinding wheel or diamond hones. Be careful when grinding not to
overheat the steel and change its temper. A safer, albeit slower, approach
is to use an extra-coarse diamond hone to shape the hammer, then
progress through the grits of diamond hones or sandpaper to refine the
surface. Finish with aluminum oxide polishing compound on a tight-
weave muslin buff.
If neither is polished, refine the flare with
files and micro-finishing film.
File the end of the flare. Use a half-
round hand file to shape the end of the
flare and clean up the sides until they are
straight [7]. File the end of the flare until
its straight, and then file along the edge
to create a bevel at a 45 angle with the
axis of the rod [8].
Create a relief angle. Place the rod on
the edge of the bench block so that the
corner of the block is just behind the flare.
Tap the rod with a weighted rawhide or a
dead blow mallet to create a 45 bend in
the rod [9]. This will make the tool easier
to manipulate while youre carving.
Sharpen the tool. A sharp carving tool
will create a smooth surface when used.
Attach 100-micron micro-finishing film to
your work surface using psa-type film or
tape. Work the outside edge of the tool
(the one that you just beveled) across the
sanding surface several times [10] until
you have sharpened and refined the bevel
along the edge.
NOTE: Keep the edge of the tool flat to
the micro-finishing film to maintain the
sharp angle of the bevel. The tendency for
beginners is to roll the tool through an arc
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8 9
ABOUT THE ARTIST
www.ArtJewelryMag.com 4
as they work it across the micro-finishing
film. Concentrate on keeping the tool
handle at a consistent angle to the film.
Occasionally check your beveled edge
by holding it up to a light you should
see no variation in the surface [11]. Work
through progressively finer polishing films
until you have achieved a mirror finish. If a
burr develops on the underside of the tool,
pull the underside across coarse micron
film until the burr falls off, or scrape it off
with your fingernail.
NOTE: If you have access to a flat diamond
lap, you may find it easier to maintain a
precise angle when refining your tool, and
use it instead of micro-finishing film to
sharpen and polish the beveled edge.
11 12 13
Make variations. Depending on the
effect or shape you wish to carve, there
are several standard tool shapes that are
useful for a variety of operations. To carve
concave surfaces, make tools with a curved
face [12]. For lining and detail work, make
a tool with a point [13]. You can also experi-
ment with cup shapes or blades. Regard-
less of what shape you choose, make sure
that the edge is still filed at a 45 bevel.
Remember, when using these tools on
wax, dont use a lot of downward force.
Instead, gently pull the tool across the
surface of the wax, allowing the sharp
edge to do the work.
P
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Pixie A. Eslinger teaches lost wax casting and beginning
through advanced metals at The Art Center Highland Park
(theattcenterhp.org), in Highland Park, Illinois; has her own
studio in Antioch, Illinois; and does freelance writing for Art
Jewelry magazine. She also has a blog where she writes
about metalsmithing and her other artistic endevors.
Contact: http://pixieaeslinger.blogspot.com
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