Grow A Tomato Plant

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How to Grow a Tomato Plant

Preparing for Planting Setting Up a Planting Plot Placing Transplants Watering Using
Stakes and Cages Fertilizing Dealing with Fruiting Protecting Ripe Fruit Growing Tomatoes in
Pots
Are you learning to grow your own sweet, juicy tomatoes? Luckily for you,
tomato plants can grow almost anywhere, that is warm and a little damp. But
as with most vegetation that produce a fruit, a little "tender, loving care" or TLC
goes a long way. With adequate sunlight, water, and patience, you'll be greatly
rewarded with a six foot tall tomato plant with big (or cherry size), red, or other
heirloom colours, juicy tomatoes! Tomatoes take a long time to grow so you
must have great patience. That's all you need to do to get your tomato plant
growing. Have fun growing!
Heirloom Tom atoSeeds
readytogrow.co.uk
Rareandunusualtom atovarieties-growyourown
deliciousfruit.
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Buy small tomato plants from a nearby nursery and transplant them to your
garden for the first-time grower. More experienced growers will find it easy
enough to start their own tomatoes from seed.
Begin to raise your own plants, if you wish, from seed, in a greenhouse or
sunny window indoors about a month before you intend to set them out in
the garden.
Use fluorescent lights or other lighting hanging a couple inches (5cm) above
the planting flat and keep raising it as the plants grow--in a not well lighted
room. Raise these plants until they are about 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25cm) and then
transplant them when spring weather is appropriate for your zone.
Don't pay extra to buy the larger plants; there is not much reason, unless you
are getting a "latish" start, to catch up.
Get good first-time growers varieties including Better Boy, Creole, Big Boy,
Early Girl, Brandywine, Celebrity, Lemon Boy, or just about any cherry or
grape tomato variety. ~ Plant several varieties rather than all of one type -- this
ensures a steady harvest.

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Part 1 of 9: Preparing for Planting
Page 1of 8 How to Grow a Tomato Plant: 27 Steps - wikiHow
3/5/2014 http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-a-Tomato-Plant
Grow two plants for each member of the family who will eat lots of tomatoes, as a
rule of thumb. If you plan on canning tomatoes or making fresh and canned salsa, use
up to four plants per person.
Plants usually cost US $4 for one 8 inch (20cm) pot, or you can buy 6 small
plants in 6 plant packs of 1 & 1/4 inch (3cm) compartmental trays.
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Choose a sunny spot to place the plants to transplant them. Place tomato
plants in a site receiving full sun (7 hours or more daily). Tomatoes need lots of
warm sunshine for optimum taste.
Caveat: In hot climates when the nights get to a low temperature of about 75F
(24C), then most tomatoes "quit setting new fruit". The ones already set will
grow great. But none will set when nights are very warm through the wee hours
really near sunrise.
Don't wait more than a few days late to put them out past the recommended
dates for your climate zone, or it may be too late (if there are such early
warm/hot weather nights).
Prepare the garden bed by adding lots of well rotted--not green--compost (5
to 8 pounds per square foot/25 to 40 kilograms per square meter) to the soil.
Turn compost into the top 3 inches (6 to 8 cm). Tomatoes demand a growing medium
rich in organic matter. If you don't make your own compost, use store-bought compost or
composted manure available in the 40-pound bags. Compost or Manure is usually less
than US $5 per 40-pound bag.
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Transplant the tomato deeply. Bury about 50 to 75% of the plant (especially for
leggy plants, that became skinny in raising them before transplanting). Its okay to
bury some of its lower leaves. New roots will emerge along the buried stem, giving the
plant a developmental boost; a new transplant needs to focus on root production.
Give each plant about 1 gallon (about 4 litres) of warm water (about 80
degrees F/ 27 degrees C) within ten minutes of transplanting to avoid
transplant shock.
Space tomato plants 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart; space them half the
suggested distance in warmer climates, especially if using tomato cages.
The normal distance recommended is for plants allowed to bush out hugely on the
ground, while planting closer together in cages allows the plants to shade each others
fruit, helping prevent burn and allowing a sweeter flavor.
Don't forget to leave yourself enough space to get in between the plants to
water, weed, and harvest. Those cute, little seedlings may not remain that way
for long.
Part 2 of 9: Setting Up a Planting Plot
Part 3 of 9: Placing Transplants
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Water in the first 7 to 10 days after transplanting at about 16 ounces (about
500 ml) of warm water per plant every day.
Wait a week or two after transplanting, and then place a mulch of straw, dried
grass, or pine needles to control weeds and keep the soil moist during dry
weather. The mulch should be about an inch (2.5 cm) thick and surround at least a
circle 12 inches (about 30 cm) in diameter around the stem. Pine needles are especially
good for helping raise the acidity of the soil.
Caution: Do 'not keep the soil continuously wet or "soggy". That will kill
(smother) the roots and will cause a stem disease (fungus) especially once it is
really warm/or hot weather.
Drip or soaker hose watering is better than overhead, which can encourage
diseases that tomatoes are particularly prone to.
Space water out more after 10 days and ensure that plants are receiving 1 to
3 inches (2.5 cm to 7.6 cm) of rain weekly. If not, give each plant about 2 gallons
(about 7.5 litres) per plant "per week", beginning by about the end of the second week
after transplanting.
Water deeply 2 to 3 times weekly (so, water each plant with about .75 to 1
gallon each time (about 3 to 4 litres), increase water as the plants get larger and
when weather is hotter.
It's okay in hot or dry weather to water even more frequently with larger
volumes.
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Consider using a tomato cage or a tall stake to support the tomato vine
about 14 days after transplanting.
A stake should be at least 0.5 x 2 inches (1.3 x 5cm) boards and 6 to 8 feet (1.8
to 2.4 meters) long. Pound stakes about 12 to 24 inches (30 cm to 60 cm) deep,
at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the plant. Secure the plant to the stake using
"loosely knotted double-loops" that won't strangle the plant. Stakes can be
made of bamboo, scrap wood, electrical conduit, or iron bar.
While it is less common, "vining" type tomato plants can be tied onto a trellis or
fence, like grapes, beans, squash, and other vining plants. This can produce
especially large yields, but vining is less popular because tomato plants grow so
large and bulky (some are called "indeterminate" but are not vines, and the third
kind are "determinate" type are shrub-like plants).
A determinate tomato plant grows to a certain (determined), limited size and
then stops or at least slows its growth greatly. An indeterminate plant keeps
growing and spreading out.
A cage should be at least 48 inches (1.2 m) tall, even taller if you grow the plant
well. Tying plants is unneeded. Some tomato plants can be more than six feet
(1.8 m) tall in cages (you may need to stake and tie the cage to the stakes).
Part 4 of 9: Watering
Part 5 of 9: Using Stakes and Cages
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Cages have a tendency to bend if the plants get heavy, and sometimes collapse
in summer storms. Carefully pull leaves and secondary stems inside the cage
as the plant grows. Some cages cost less than USD $4 each.
Make your own tomato cages, if you like. Get a roll of 4 feet height (1.25 M)
"welded-wire" garden fencing 2" X 4" rectangular openings (5cm X 10cm) garden
fencing with -- or 4" square openings (10cm) -- and soon you can make it double height,
tied to more stakes, so wind will not knock them over as plants climb. Roll it into 18 inch
wide (45cm) cylinders to make your own, larger cages. Cut and bend the wire ends
around the uncut wires on the opposite end, making a circle. This type of cage needs
strong stakes well tied for support.
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Choose whether to use chemical fertilizers. Do not use lawn fertilizer. The ratio
of minerals in lawn fertilizer is for growing stems and leaves. Look for a vegetable
fertilizer which is for stimulating fruit. Tomatoes can grow very well organically, provided
the soil is well enriched with organic matter. If you do use chemical fertilizers, try using
half the recommended concentration per gallon (using package directions), but fertilize
twice as often, in order to avoid the stress caused by the feast-famine of the longer
fertilization gaps.
Over-fertilization can cause plants to grow too quickly, leaving them more
susceptible to disease and insects.
Remember that your goal in growing tomatoes is fruit, not just leaves.
Fertilizers, especially when used in excess, or the wrong kind may cause the
plant to produce more leaves and foliage than fruit.
Shake your plant poles or cages gently once or twice each week for about 5
seconds once flowering begins to promote pollination of the blossoms (from
one flower to another). According to the National Gardening Association, shaking the
tomato plant increases fruit production by more evenly distributing pollen.
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Watch for fruit to appear 45 to 90 (about 60) days after transplanting. Tomato
plants usually have small, green fruit to start. Wait until the fruit is of good size with
a bright, deep coloring: This means that the fruit is ripe and ready to pick. The texture of
the fruit can also determine when it is ready to pick. Ripeness is usually determined by a
slight softness. Be careful to only "palm the tomatoes"; do not squeeze with the finger
tips and bruise the fruit.
Also, be careful of not allowing it to become overly ripe, which results in a very
soft tomato.
Realize that birds, possums, raccoons and some dogs will take ripened
tomatoes, corn and sweet green peppers, etc.
Part 6 of 9: Fertilizing
Part 7 of 9: Dealing with Fruiting
Pick fruit earlier to ripen indoors if you like: Fruit may be picked any time after it
starts changing to its ripe color and set on a sunny windowsill. This will reduce the
chances of it rotting on the vine or being eaten by a bird or squirrel.
Tomatoes do, however, taste sweeter when ripened on the vine, so you need to
balance risk of threats versus taste.
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Place a " zip-" of " snap-" seal sandwich type of bag over the nearly ripe fruit,
very carefully, from the bottom up onto the stem to protect ripening
tomatoes from predators.
Close the bag from both sides at the top, above the fruit, coming near the
stem, leaving about 1/4" (.6cm) on each side for air flow.
Cut the lower corner for drainage and air flow. In hot weather, carefully punch
more air holes, 1/2 inch slits (1.2cm), or smaller, will work.
Don't be disappointed by losing fruit to the animals; spend the time bagging it!
Another tip is to put red Christmas tree ornaments around the top of the tomato
cage. The birds will peck at them, be confused and leave your tomatoes alone.
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Plant tomatoes using only a pot--for those who live with little ground space,
or only a porch!
Use a pot about 18-24 inches high, about 15-20 inches wide. Fill with soil,
fertilizer, etc.
Plant tomato and cover soil with plastic black cloth that lets water through
small holes. Cut around the edge in a circle and tuck the edge into the soil. This
keeps weeds, cats and bugs out.
Use long wood, bamboo or plastic stakes and put 3-4 into pot around plant
and use plant tape or tied yarn around main stalk (not to snug) in several
places to support it.
Part 8 of 9: Protecting Ripe Fruit
Part 9 of 9: Growing Tomatoes in Pots
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In order to improve flavor, promote growth, increase harvest, and
protect from insects, consider using companion plants with your
tomatoes. Planting basil within 18 inches of your tomato plant, for
example, improves the flavor of its fruit and repels many insect pests.
Carrots increase fruit production, because the tomato plant draws
nutrients from the carrots (which may grow smaller as a result). Basil
also makes a wonderful addition to tomato-based dishes. Try adding it
to your spaghetti sauce or bruschetta.
When planting in the ground, you can place a large coffee can (opened
on both ends) over the plant and push it halfway into the ground. When
watering, fill the can to the top with water, which will then descend
directly to the roots and allow the plant to flourish. Check for
"suckers" (branches that grow in the joint between the main stem and
other branches). There is a myth that suckers do not produce fruit; this
is not true, but they do use some of the plant's nutrients as they grow.
As a general rule, leaving suckers will produce more fruit, but smaller,
while pinching them off will cause the plant to grow larger fruit, but less
of it (because there will be fewer branches).
If the stem or roots of the plant are damaged -- for example your
toddler sits down on top of your 18 inch plant, snapping it near its base
-- you can often save the plant anyway, by burying much of its above-
ground stem and lower branches again, as you did to 75% of the plant
when you first placed it in the ground. The little hairs on the stem and
branches grow into roots. Since the plant is already in the ground, you
accomplish this by piling dirt up around the plant, so that it grows out of
a mound. Raised-earth growing is good for tomato plants at any time,
because they are more vulnerable to certain ailments, especially
fungus, when their hanging leaves and branches are in contact with the
earth.
If you do decide to sucker (cut back) your "indeterminate" (not shrub
type) tomato plants, consider not pinching off the whole sucker, but
letting it grow just long enough to produce some leaves, then pinching
off its tip. This will keep it from putting much effort into growing a long
branch, but lets the first few leaves increase the surface area available
to your plant for photosynthesis.
Suckers that have been pinched off can also be rooted quite easily in
moist soil to produce new tomato plants, but this practice does require
a larger sucker, and is somewhat impractical in climates with a short
growing season, since these plants will reach maturity later in the
season and have less time to yield.
If you have a fish tank, water your tomato plants with your waste fish
tank water. The natural based ammonia (Nh3) content in this water will
be absorbed directly as nitrogen that tomato plants love when in their
vegetative growth stage. Depending on what you feed your fish or what
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you use to balance the pH levels in your tank there is a fair amount of
phosphorus, potassium, calcium (lime stone, sea shells).
While you should avoid pouring too much coffee or fresh grounds into
the soil for acidity, the very caffeine which makes this risky is also
poisonous to slugs and other pests, which is why coffee plants evolved
it. Even more effective than killing these pests is to simply spray the
leaves of the plant with coffee. On the leaves, the caffeine is not
concentrated enough to harm the plant, but is still enough to repel
some pests.
Use manure tea for fertilizer. If you have access to well rotted manure,
you can make your own fertilizer. Put the manure in pantyhose or
cheese cloth. Place the "tea bag" in a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket
with water. Allow the "tea" to steep for a few days. Dilute the tea 1:1
with water and give your plants a drink...They'll love it. If you're near the
ocean, you can also use sea kelp for the same effect. Kelp is a good
fertilizer for folliar feeding; spraying directly on the leaves, because it
contains trace nutrients and hormones which are more easily absorbed
through leaf pores, instead of indirectly through the roots.
Cage or stake tomatoes at planting time this will insure no damage to
the young roots if staked or caged later.
You can get started earlier in the year by creating a temporary
greenhouse. Make or buy cylindrical tomato cages made of heavy duty
fence material. Use vinyl coated welded wire with a 3"x5" mesh, 5 ft.
tall and about 1'6" in diameter. Plant the seedling and sink the cage
into the dirt 4-6". Then take some sturdy, clear plastic (available in the
garden center) and tape it securely to the cage. Moisture is retained
and the plants are kept nice and warm. Remove the plastic when the
plants emerge from the top of the cage or begin to form fruit, whichever
happens first.
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Never sucker (prune the new growths at the base of each fruiting
branch) determinate tomato plants. This kind of plant sets its fruit all at
once, and all you will accomplish is making your crop much smaller.
Seeds of tomato are pretty small and their planting depth should not be
too deep. A deep sowing results in less or no emergence and as a
result loss of seeds may be attained.It is therefore wise to cautiously
follow the planting depth of seeds and this has to be a 0.5-1.5cm.
When transplanting, be careful not to disturb the roots. If too many
roots are cut or damaged, the plant may die. See "tips" above for how
to fix root or stem damage.
To prevent mold or fungal diseases, water plants in the morning,
preferably by using drip irrigation or water furrows. If you spray the
entire plant(s) from above, you will increase the chances of mold/fungal
Warnings
spores infecting it/them. Exception; There is a method of fertilizing
plants called Folliar Feeding, where you spray the plant's leaves with
fertilizer containing trace elements, which will be directly absorbed.
This is good for the plant, though it should be done in the evening or
morning, when its pores are open.
Tomatoes need good weather and soil conditions to produce good fruit.
Only eat the fruit of a tomato plant, never anything else, as tomato
vines are in the highly poisonous Nightshade family.
As your plants flourish and grow, string, or cord tend to cut into the
branches. Instead, try using torn strips of cloth for your garden tying
needs, and especially when cinching up tomatoes. Cut-up strips of old
hose or stockings work great for tomato ties; they are stretchy and
gentle enough to tie vines well. One pair of 99-cent pantyhose in
1/2-inch strips will hold up rows of plants.
Tomato plants (several different varieties)
Composted manure. Available in 40-pound bags from nurseries,
garden centers, or hardware stores.
Trowel, small shovel or pickaxe.
Twine or cloth for tying.
Tomato stakes (bamboo, iron rebar, wood) or tomato cages.
Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 2,369,358 times.
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Categories: Articles Featured | Tomatoes Growing
Recent edits by: Hailey Girges, Juan Luis Lobo, Boltonjace22
In other languages:
Nederlands: tomaten kweken, Espaol: Cmo cuidar una planta de
tomates, Deutsch: Tomaten pflanzen, Italiano: Come Coltivare
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faire pousser un plant de tomate

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