hyderabadi cuisine

Hyderabad

History and Geography

Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh is a city with rich heritage in culture and food. The city was
the capital of great dynasties like Qutub Shahi and Nizams. It was Sultan Mohammed Quli who created
the city of Hyderabad. He married a Hindu woman, Bhagmati and named the city Bhag Nagar. Later
when Bhagmati was given the honorific of QueenHyder Mahal, the city too was named Hyderabad.
The city is on the banks of river `Musi and Hussain Sagar Lake. Hyderabad was ruled by Qutab
Shahis from 1518 and 1687 and then the dynasty was extinguished by the Mughals. After
capturing Hyderabad, the Moghuls appointed a Nizam (governor) for South India. The Nizams
established the Asaf Jahi Dynasty. They ruled Hyderabad from 1724 to 1948. The last Nizam
was considered to be one of the richest persons in the world. The city is famous for Charminar,
Golconda fort, the pearls, Hussain sagar Lake, Birla temple, choodi Bazar etc. as well. And of
late it is often called the `Cyber capital of India.

Essential Ingredients
Chickpeas (Kabuli Senagalu), Cowpeas (Bobbarlu Lobia), Field Beans (Chikkudu Fava
beans), Gongura leaves (Puntikura), Water Amaranth (Ponnaganti Koora), Banana Rhizome
(Arati Dumpa), Tapioca (Karrapendalam), Yam Elephant (Kanda Dumpa), Cassia Flower
(Thangedu Puvvu), Cluster Beans ( Gora Chikkudu Gwar ki phalli), Spine Gourd (Akakara),
Zizyphus (Regu Pandu), Tamarind leaves (Chinta Chiguru), Purslane leaves (Kulfa), Cudapa
Seeds (Sara Pappu Chironji, Chaoroli), Betel Roots (Pan ki Jad Main ingredient of
Hyderabadi Potli masala), Vetiver roots (Khus Ki jad), Stone Flower (Pathar ke Phool), Mareti
Bud (Marathi Moggu), Cinnamon Camphor (Paccha Karpuram).

Special Equipments
a) Chippa This is a clay pot that is wok-shaped and is used for cooking chippa gosht a lamb
dish that gets its name from this equipment.
b) Tathee This is a metal stand similar to a barbeque griller, which is placed on smouldering
charcoals to grill colour.

Salient Features
The Nizams were great lovers of food. It is said that the last Nizam Osman Ali Khan used to
personally write the daily menu for himself and the entire palace. Nizams were also famous for
hosting great state banquets.
1. There is of course a Mughal imprint in plenty as far as Hyderabadi food is concerned. This is
because both qutab Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasty were Persians, Arabs or even Turks (Nizams
had nuptial relatives in Turkish royal family). The cuisine has got many other influences like that
of the local spicy Andhra food, the continental food (due to the British rule), and south Indian
food. The foreigners brought in some spices of their own into Hyderabadi cuisine and hence a
great influence of Middle Eastern countries. Many of Nizams advisors and chefs were from
Delhi and Lucknow, and they brought with them their rich culture and food.

2. Hyderabad cuisine is known to be sumptuous with a richness of taste that is difficult to find
elsewhere in India. Day in and day out rich food is taken. The food can be chilli hot with spices
floating on top. It is the amalgamation of Muslim techniques and meat, with the vibrant spices
and ingredients of Andhra Pradesh.

3. They have some special garam masala and Potli ka masala (which has got sandalwood,
Pathar ke phool, cassia buds, dried rosepetal etc. in it) of their own. Staple cereal is rice.

4. Wheat also is common. Meat is consumed from the breakfast to dinner.

5. Hyderabad cuisine is admittedly more non-veg than vegetarian. But vegetarianism of not
entirely alien to the city, the Hyderabadi Hindus prefers to be vegetarian on festival days, and
orthodox Shea Muslims refrains from eating meat on Mahakam day.

6. The meat consumed most is Lamb, as kebabs, curries or in Biryani. Vegetables are added in
most meat dishes (not in meat Biryani and kebabs).

7. Hyderabadis are proud of the dal variety they have got. They have khatti dals (sour), meeti
dal (sweet), dalcha (dal with mutton), the rare Chironji dal.

8. Call it the triumph of South over North, the Hyderabadi is more into rice than bread. A variety
of pulaos, Biriyanis and Khichris are there.

9. The curries of Hyderabad can be a Shorva (thin soupy curry with dumplings of meat and
vegetables), Khorma (creamy yoghurt based), Khalia (thicker curries), Salan (thin gravy: from
Arabic term salona for gravy) Bhuna (with very little sauce) and a group without a specific
name, are those that are flavoured with baghar, or seasoning. They boast of some special baked
dishes like Tootak (semolina and minced meat). The Arab influence is very specific in Muzhi
(goat stuffed with pulao, chicken, boiled eggs, nuts and cooked). Then they have Marag (A broth
of mutton and marrow) and Nehari (fine broth of tongue and trotters). Another area of non-veg
sector is mince meat (Kheema) which is used for kebabs, kofta, pulaos etc.

10. The dessert section is slightly lesser in number but the ones they have are very famous like
double ka meeta, khubani ka meeta, Phirni.

11. No meal in Hyderabad is complete without pickles. Pickles are made of green mango, lemon,
tamarind, green chilli, gongura leaves, kamrak (star fruit) etc. The well known flaming red
Andhra pickle called the `Aavakai is very popular.
12. They have a lot of home made `paans as well. As they say in Hyderabad, the best food
comes when it is made with fursat (leisure) and Mohabbat (love).

Festivals / Occasions
Idul-fitr (Ramzan) and Bakri Id are the most important. During Ramzan fasting is observed
during day and to break it they have `iftar which will have Haleem and Sheermal. Id-ul-zuha
(Bakri Id) is celebrated in memory of the sacrifice by Prophet Ibraham. A goat is sacrificed to
`Allah and the meat is distributed for the poor.

Signature Dishes
Hyderabadi Gosht Biryani - The two major variations in the preparation of biryanis are kacchi
and pakki biryani. The difference lies in the preparation and the pre-cooking respectively. The
important procedures of making a biryani are the marination and the dum style of cooking
(steaming with live coals).
The kacchi biryani is made with uncooked meat and the marination time for the meat for this
preparation varies from 90-360 minutes. The marinade includes raw papaya peel, hung curd,
spices, and condiments. Some chefs use black and white pepper instead of red chilli powder. The
parboiled rice and the marinated meat are then arranged in layers with mint leaves, fried onions,
and saffron as garnish between the layers. The handi is then sealed and allowed to steam between
layers of live embers. The seal of the handi is broken only during meal time and the delicious
aroma of the biryani is allowed to waft in the dastarkhwan, whetting die appetite of the diners.

The pakki biryani is made similarly except for the fact that meat is cooked before being arranged
in layers for the dum. Of course, the marination process and the marinade will considerably
differ for both these biryanis.

Hyderabadi Gosht Korma - Hyderabad is famous for its Mughlai dishes and korma is one of
them. It is a blonde-coloured dish of lamb made from yoghurt as a base and thickened with
cashew nuts, almond paste, and poppy seeds.
Gazak - Starter Kheema - minced meat
Shorva - curry of meat Murg - Chicken
Lukmi Rectangular/triangular dough casing filled with minced meat/veg and fried dough
made with maida and curd.
Pathar ke Gosht: Marinated mutton pasandas (flattened pieces) cooked on a stone
Tootak: minced meat patties baked in a semolina cone.
Shikampur: Derived from the terms Shikam means a slave to ones belly or an epicure and
parwar= nourish. So it is a dish that pampers Epicurean taste. A moist kebab with a relish
filling and shallow fried.
Murgh Nizami Chicken dish with a yellow-coloured, yoghurt-based gravy thickened with
sesame seeds, peanuts, and sunflower seed paste. The dish is usually finished with chopped mint
and lemon juice.
Curries:
Bhindi ka Shorva: Mutton and okra curry
Gawar phalli ka Khalia: dry/semi dry meat preparation with gypsy/cluster beans
Nalli ka Khorma: Bone marrow curry
Nehari: Broth of goats tongue and trotters
Haleem : a savory porridge of ground meat and broken wheat
Saalim Raan: Whole leg of lamb fried and cooked with masalas.
Pilafs:
Kachi Biriyani: Meat cooked with raw rice
Paye ka Pulao : Pilaf of trotters
Tarkariyan
Bagare Baingan: slit aubergines browned and cooked in a nutty sauce of sesame, ground nut,
coconut and tamarind.
Mirchi ka salan: Made with stuffed chilles
Dum ke Boote: Simmered green gram curry
Dals:
Keoti Dal: A medley of four lentils (channa, dhuli mong, masur dal-dhuli, and red gram
lentil/arhar dal)
Dalcha: Mutton and Dal (Masur and or arhar) curry
Rotis:
Sheermal: Soft bread made with milk, butter, yeast and sugar. Accompaniment for Haleem.
Meetha:
Khubani ka meetha: Stewed apricot with cream
Gille firdouse:
Double ka meetha