Textile Yarn

Yarn
A yarn is an assemblage of fibers that are laid or twisted together to form
a continuous strand.
Yarns may be made from either staple fibers or filament fibers.
The type and length of fiber, the type, ply, and size of yarns, and the
amount of twist given to yarns determine many of the characteristics of
fabrics made from the yarns.
Yarn
Spun Formed by
twisting staple yarn.
filament fibers need
little or no twist to
hold them together
in yarns.
Staple Yarn
Staple fibers are short
fibers measured in inches
or centimeters.
A staple yarn is a strand of
short fibers (typically
several hundred in cross-
section), in which the
lateral coherence is
provided mainly by inter-
fiber friction through
twisting.
Continuous filament
Filament
Filaments are long, continuous fiber strands of indefinite length,
measured in yards or meters.
For a continuous filament yarn the individual fibers may be 1km long and
therefore little or no twisting may be required to provide coherence.
SINGLE, PLY AND CORD YARN
Single Yarns are made from single
filaments or from group of staple
or filament fibers twisted
together to form the desired
yarn. Monofilament,
multifilament and spun yarns are
all single yarns.
Ply Yarns are made by twisting
together two or more single
yarns. Each part of the yarn is
called a ply.
Cord Yarns are ply yarns twisted
together. They are seldom used in
conventional fabrics.
CARDED YARN AND COMBED YARN
Carded yarn: A yarn produced from fibers that have been carded but not
combed.
Carding is a process, which eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the
spun yarn. The process also removes dirt and foreign matter still
remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a very thin layer.
Combed yarn: Yarn produced from fibers that have been carded (or
prepared) and combed.
The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process
the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers
are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength,
fineness, and uniformity.
Single yarn or Blend yarn
Yarns may be made entirely of one fiber and be classified as such by the
name of the fiber used.
Or yarns may be a blend of two or more fibers the names of which are
included in the description of the yarn.
Blended yarns may be combined or blended in any of these ways:
by mixing staples fibers before they are spun
by combining filament fibers before adding twist
by combining simple yarns of different fiber content into a ply yarn
100% COTTON, PC/TC, CVC & CORE YARN
100% Cotton: The yarn has 100% cotton fiber.
P/C or T/C : (polyester/cotton or Terelyne/cotton): Yarn produced by
blending cotton and polyester fibers
CVC(Chief value cotton): A blended yarn having more percentage of cotton
as compared to that of polyester. For example, Cotton: Polyester 70 : 30
or 60 : 40.
Core yarn: Yarn consisting of a central thread surrounded by staple fibers.
The yarn has the strength and elongation of the central thread whilst
exhibiting most of the other characteristics of the surface staple fibers.
Yarn Characteristics
The basic structural features discussed above collectively
determine the different yarn characteristics that include:
Yarn fineness (count)
Yarn twist
Yarn strength
Yarn evenness and imperfections
hairiness and abrasion resistance
Yarn count
The 'count' of yarn defines its fineness.
Definition given by The Textile Institute says "Count:
A number indicating the mass per unit length or the
length per unit mass of yarn."
Yarn Count: Direct and Indirect
There are two types of counting systems-
Direct system: In a direct yarn counting system the yarn
number or count is the weight of a unit length of yarn.
Example: Tex, Denier (D).
Indirect system: In an indirect system the yarn number or
count is the number of 'units of length' per 'unit of weight'.
Example: English count (N
e
), Metric count (N
m
).
Conversion Factors of Count
From To Formula
Tex Denier 9xtex= Denier
Tex English or cotton count (Ne) 590.5/Tex= Ne
Tex Metric (Nm) 1000/Tex = Nm
Ne Denier 5315/Ne=Denier
Ne Metric (Nm) Ne/0.59=Nm
Twist of yarns
Twisting is the primary binding mechanism of spun yarns.
In general, twist is defined as a measure of spiral
turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibers together.
The direction of twist influences the appearance of fabric particularly in
twill fabric
Twist direction will also have a great influence on fabric stability,
Twist of yarns
Yarn strength
Yarn strength is considered as one of the main criteria
characterizing yarn quality
During knitting, the yarn is subject to tension, which may reach
levels of more than 30% of the average breaking force of the
yarn.
Yarn evenness and imperfections
hairiness and abrasion resistance
Abrasion is generally defined as the wearing away of any part of the
material by rubbing against another surface.
Yarn hairiness may generally be defined as the extent of hairs protruding
from the yarn body.
Basic Yarn Manufacturing Processes
Blending Opening Carding
Combing Drawing Roving
Spinning
Spinning
Major yarn faults
Contamination (length more
than 20 mm should be nil)
Thickand thin places
Unevenness and periodicity
High hairiness
Neps
Stiff yarn higher TPI
white specs (Immature fibers)
Lower elongation and elasticity
Yarn Faults contributed to the 25% of knitted fabric rejection