Computer in garment industry:

All the jobs described so far lend themselves ideally to computerized graphics.
The master patterns or blocks can be stored as images in the computer and called up as required,
together with a list of each of the pattern parts for that block. With the use of a light pen, each
part can be brought up in turn and enlarged on the screen. This job obviously retains its skill and
even requires the added skill of computer operation. With interactive graphics the pattern maker
can now adjust each part to match the designer's concept.
The grading technique, developed by graders over many years in the form of tables,
has been entered into the computer for use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now
automated. The skill has been appropriated and the job has been deskilled.
Finally, the layout or marking is done by an operator working at the VDU. At each
trial he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio of cloth used to cloth wasted. The
optimization technique has a learning routine, so that the operator's skill is gradually
incorporated into the program as a rule base. Each time the program is used it therefore
Garment 6 accomplishes its task more rapidly and further deskills the operator.
A radically different approach can be taken in which the problem is solved by an
algorithm developed by a highly skilled technicist of another discipline - say an industrial
mathematician.
This would be the approach adopted in a window factory to computer the optimum cutting
pattern with minimum wastage for an order of window panes. In these cases, of course, the
old craftsman is simply scrapped.
EFFECT OF CAD ON GARMENT
DESIGN AND PRE-ASSEMBLY
Block images stored in computer
Grading technique replaced by
expert system
Percentage wasted computed and
displayed for each layout
Fabric pattern constraints incorporated
in the program
Learning system incorporated
Lay-makers deskilled
Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM
Women take over as operators
Wages reduced



iii) Pattern making
Pattern making is a pre-production phase between the design and the construction of
the final sample. This is a process that could be completed manually or by making use
of a dedicated CAD programme. Generating new, or manipulating existing patterns is an
important function of any dedicated CAD system for the apparel segment of the textile
industry. It is possible to create a basic pattern block needed for the pattern
construction process. These blocks are constructed to a predetermined set of
measurements for a basic size, for example size 34, or to a clients specific
measurements. The designer can then go ahead and manipulate the pattern according
to the design details. The process of constructing a pattern on the computer is similar to
the traditional method of pattern construction, and it would probably take as much time
on computer as it would manually. The advantage the computer has is that all styles are
stored on the hard drive, and can easily be retrieved and adapted to create a new style.
To modify an existing pattern not yet entered into the computer system, one needs to
scan the pattern into the computer. This process of scanning is referred to as digitizing.
v) Grading
Grading is the process of duplicating a pattern into a range of sizes, either by enlarging
it to bigger sizes, or reducing it to smaller sizes. In apparel production, grading pattern
pieces by hand is time consuming. Manually, each size is increased individually and then
traced from the group of patterns, referred to as a nest. During computer-aided-
grading a nest is created in the full size range (larger and smaller) in one operation.
Each size can then be printed separately. Grading a pattern nest
Once the grading process is complete, the designer can make use of measuring tools to
measure all pattern pieces accurately, ensuring a perfect fit. With the process of grading
completed, the production of a marker can commence.


iv) Marker making
The objective of marker making is to achieve the maximum usage of the fabric
available. The computer operator needs to move the pieces around on the screen until
adequate fabric utilization has been achieved. This process is referred to as interactive
marker planning (Carr, 1994: 15). The exact width of the fabric is entered into the
specific section of the software programme, as well as any necessary constraints, such
as placing selected pattern pieces on- or off the straight-of-grain of the fabric. All
pattern pieces are displayed at the top of the screen. The operator takes a pattern piece
and places it on the fabric displayed at the bottom of the screen. Each piece can then
be moved around until the desired placement has been achieved. The marker length
and fabric utilization is constantly monitored to enable the operator to achieve
maximum fabric utilization at all times. In the manual marker making process, the
marker maker will have to use actual size patterns on an actual lay-length, which could
be 1,5m in width and 20m in length.

or

Objective of marker planning and marker making:
-Optimizing fabric utilization through marker making
-Understanding the importance of the same in apparel and garments manufacture
Garments manufacturing is very important part of textile production and proper marker planning
and marker making is the heart of garments manufacturing. The results of cut order planning are
cutting orders that direct marker planning and lay planning. Optimum use of textile material and
cutting systems are important considerations in planning cutting orders as more firms incorporate
new technology. The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination
of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One garments cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency of
marker. Usually one of these is a remnant marker for the short pieces and ends of rolls left over.
This helps to reduce fabric waste. Each marker requires a lay of fabric.

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread. Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes. The process of
arranging Pattern pieces in the most efficient manner requires time, skill, and concentration.
Markers may be made by manually tracing master patterns onto fabric or paper or by
manipulating and plotting computerized pattern images.

Computerized marker making: Computerized marker making is more
accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse
of previously made markers, and shortest response time. Production patterns may be developed
on the computer and/or digitized or scanned into the computer. In addition, parameters for
markers are entered into the computer from cutting orders. These might include style numbers,
size distribution, and fabric width. Technicians manipulate pattern images on computer screens
and experiment with various configurations to determine the best fabric utilization for the
marker.

Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so they can be
reviewed or cut. Computer-driven plotters may draw pattern pieces, graded nests of patterns,
and/or markers with complete annotation, depending on the needs of the apparel firm. New
multihead jet plotters are much faster and can print variable line density and width, text
identification information, and bar codes. Some garment manufacturers have devices to copy
original markers when multiple copies are needed. Plotting is often the bottleneck in the
preproduction processes, especially if a firm runs a lot of copies. Many firms run their plotters 24
hours a day to keep up with demand. Firms using computerized cutters may not need paper
markers to guide the cutting process and therefore may only print identification information for
bundles.
Cut order planning determines how many markers are needed, how many of each size should be
in each marker, and the number of ply that will be cut with each marker. Size distribution in a
marker depends on the volume of orders for specific sizes, fabric width, how the pieces fit
together, and the firm's standard practices for marker making. An efficient size ratio is often
1:2:2:1. For example, an order for one marker may contain one small, two medium, two large
and one extra large. Additional markers may include only medium and large, depending on the
assortments in the line plan or orders from merchandise buyers. Cutting orders may require
making new markers, copying previously made markers, or modifying previous markers