Copy Your

Garments with
Precision
Wi th a fl exi bl e r u l er, you ca n ca pt u re
t he s ha pe of a ny ga r ment a ga i n a nd aga i n
B Y J E A N H AA S
hen it comes to replicating and outlining any curved shape, you
really can't beat the wonderfl properties of a flexible ruler. This
ruler with an inner lead core comes in a variety of sizes and can
contour almost anything. Think of all the times you could have
used a tool that could copy the shape of what you were working
on so that you could then transform it into a flat pattern. Well,
a flexible ruler does just that. So now, you don't have to resort to wapping wires or
coat hangers around your patterns to capture the shapes that you've always wanted.
You can simply use an assortment of flexible rulers to quickly and easily do a precise
and more professional job for all your pattern work
Flexible rulers come in lengths from 16 to . inches and are bendable, pliable, twistable, and,
well, flexible. A flexible ruler has a measuring tape within the plastic coating on each side of
it; one side gives measurements in inches and the other in centimeters. When you are outlin
ing a shape, this multifaceted tool allows you to also measure the shape's length and add seam
allowances to it at the same time. These rulers are especially usefl for copying very precise
curves, shapes, and sizes. Imagine, taking anything three-dimensional and turning it into a flat
pattern quickly and easily. Just contour the inner edge of the ruler against the outer edge of the
shape you want replicated and trace. It's really that Simple.
Adding Seam Allowances
The dimensions of the flexible ruler itself can also be an aid to your patternmaking. Since it
measures . inch wide when lying flat or . inch wide when on its side, it can easily alter your
pattern by those dimensions. Just hold the flexible ruler on its side and it will add a clean
www. t h r e a d s ma g a z i n e . c o m F E B R UARY / MAR C H 2 007 49
F L E X I B L E R U L E R S
lA-inch seam allowance as it outlines any shape
it's replicating. By turning it over and laying it
flat against your seamline, you can instantly
add a o-inch seam allowance to all of your
pattern's seamlines.
Before you start, remember these tips
When using the ruler against the body or any
pattern seamlines, remember to lay the side fac
ing the inches measurements next to the shape
that you are following. Since the width of the
ruler is l inch, you'll want to record the measure
ment side that is closest to the body; otherwise
you will increase the dimensions you are measur
ing by l inch. If you prefer centimeters, then
just flip it over to the other side and lay the
metric portion against the shape to get that
reading as well.
You will fnd it easy to outline around the ruler
with a marker, as its plastic outer shell is water
proof. This is another convenient feature when
using water-soluble pens.
You'l l fnd al l sorts of surprising uses
The list of uses for flexible rulers goes on and
on. (In fact, don't be surprised if it shows up in
your husband's toolbox!) They are available in a
variety oflengths, each ofering its own special
fnctions. Aer working with these wonderful
tools for the past 15 years, Id love to share these
secrets with you.
Use a 4o-inch ruler for large shapes
Try these following suggestions:
Create crotch curves for plus sizes. Plus sizes
include curves longer than 32 inches.
Design beautiul longer necklines. Use it for both
the front and back, such as V-necklines (shown at
right) and boat necklines.
Establish princess line seams when tissue ftting.
Start by aligning one end of your flexible ruler at
the midpoint of the shoulder and continue down
until you intersect the bust point. Simply draw in
a perfect princess line seam.
Copy longer collars. When copying longer
shaped collars like a shawl collar, wrap one end of
the flexible ruler against the collar's center-back
seam and follow the ruler along the shape of your
collar. When you have outlined the whole shape
TH R EADS
u e d
Get creative with your projects
Change your patterns and more with each si ze of ruler.
USE A 40-I NCH flEXI BLE RULER
TO DESI GN BEAUTI FUL NECKLI NES
To make a pl ungi ng-back V-neck, wrap the ends of a 4o-i nch flexible ruler
together with a rubber band. Then, position the rul er around the neckl i ne
with the ends i n the back. Let the rul er graceful ly shape where i t natural l y
fal l s. Trace the desi red shape onto your musl i n or tissue pattern.
Trace the desired shape.
Position the ruler around the neckline.
USE A 24-I NCH flEXI BLE RULER TO POSI TI ON BRA STRAPS
Reposition fal l i ng bra straps by pl aci ng your flexible rul er to where i t
feels comfortabl e on your shoulders. The rul er wi l l i nstantly conform to
provide the strap's correct position on your body. Mark where the rul er
i ntersects the back of the bra and reposition your strap. No more
fal l i ng bra straps!
' New
position
USE A 32- I NCH FLEXI BLE RULER TO COPY CURVES FROM YOUR FAVORI TE PAI R OF PANTS
1 Turn the pants i nside out. Place one
pant leg i nside the other to reveal
the i nside of the crotch curve. Pin to an
chor at the waistl i ne so that the curve
doesn't shift. Then, lay the i nches side
of the fl exibl e rul er al ong the seaml i ne
of the pants and record the front crotch
measurement (the distance al ong the
curve from front waist to inseam).
2 On your pattern, start the rul er at
zero at the center-front waist and
alter the front crotchli nseam tissue to
meet the front l ength measurement.
Pin the tissue pattern i nseam together
at the new crotch point.
3 Al ign your newly shaped flexible
ruler onto your tissue pattern and
draw i n the rest of the crotch seam ( use
the i nside of the rul er).
4 Mark the new seaml i ne fol lowing
the flexible curve, then add seam
al lowances to it.
Lay the ruler along the inside seam.
USE A 16- I NCH FLEXI BLE RULER TO ENHANCE YOUR J EWELRY
Custom-design a neckline to showcase your
jewelry. Put your jewelry on with your chosen
garment, and mark equidistant from your
neckl ace to your new preferred neckli ne. Place
the flexible ruler at the markings. The rul er
wi l l hol d the shape whi l e you draw i n your
new neckl i ne. Your jewelry i s now enhanced
by your new neckl i ne.
SOURCES
DressFormDesigni ng.com
Fl exi bl eRul ers.com
JoAnn.com
www. t h r e a d s ma g a z i n e . c om
Alter the front curve ofthe tissue patter to
meet the front length measurement. Pin the
tissue pattern inseam together.
Above: Mark seam lines on the tissue patter.
Lef: Draw in the rest ofthe curve.
F E B R UAR Y/ MAR C H 2 007
f l E X I B L E R U L E R S
of the collar with the ruler, gently lift it
of the shape you've just copied and trace
the outline onto another pattern.
Change longer collar or neckline width.
Decrease or increase any neckline
or collar width while still keeping its
original shape. Lay the flexible ruler on
the outside edge of the collar or neckline
to downsize or increase fom the ruler's
edge and trace a new edge.
Replicate shapes for home dec. For a
wing chair or couch, lay the ruler against
the seamline and align the ruler
to follow the shape of the curved
region of your wing chair. Care
fully lift of the shaped ruler and
transfer that shape to a pattern.
Use a 32-inch ruler
for midsize projects
When your project is medium
size, take these tips:
Outline crotch curves for
medium sizes. Use this for curve
lengths up to 32 inches (see
p. 51).
True in longer pattern seamline
pieces for longer torsos. Do your
seamlines look like zigzag pin
markings on your tissue after
pattern ftting? Just lay the inner edge of
your flexible ruler on its side to mimic
your newly altered outline. Your ruler
will correct and blend the uneven pin
markings. Draw in your newly trued
seamline. Don't forget to use the outer
edge of the ruler to instantly outline a
clean -inch seam allowance.
Shape yokes on jackets, blouses, and
vests. For a western yoke, look no further
than your fexible ruler. Just form the
ruler into the desired shape and trace it
on the front and back of your patterns.
Mark notches, cut the pattern apart, and
add seamlines to the cut edges.
Position U-necklines, curved necklines,
and boat necklines. It's easy to play
around with shapes for your necklines.
You can truly customize the shape
and position of all your necklines by
laying the flexible ruler around your
52 TH R E ADS
neckline and transferring that shape
onto your patterns.
Use a 24-inch ruler
for smaller projects
Navigate snug spots with these ideas:
Outline shorter crotch curves. Use for
crotch curves up to 24 inches long.
Position bra straps. Try this trick on
custom bras or for altering ready-to-wear
bras (see the example on p. 50).
Outline and resize armholes up to
24 inches. When trying to pattern-ft your
armholes for all your sleeveless gar
ments, wrap the flexible curve around
your armscye (armhole). Align the ruler
vertically at the shoulder tip and con
tinue down and around your underarm.
Then, trace the outline and you've in
stantly ftted your patterns armhole and
shoulder widths correctly to your body.
Make custom hats. Since most adult
heads are less than 24 inches, you can
easily replicate a head shape. Wrap the
inner edge of the ruler around the area
where the hat will "sit" and gently lift
of the shaped ruler onto pattern paper.
Trace around the inner portion of the
shape. If you need to know the total cir
cumference measurements, it will show
that at the same time.
Downsize sleeve caps to ft patter
armholes. You can easily decrease the
excess amount of fabric in a sleeve cap
when you have too much ease. Just
contour the flexible ruler around the
seamline at the top of the sleeve cap.
Record the length. Simply slide down the
already shaped ruler just between the
sleeve notches the amount that you need
to decrease the excess fllness,
and retrace the original curve of the
sleeve head.
Use a 16-inch ruler for tiny projects
This smallest ruler is for navigating
super-tight places.
Outline circumferences ofneck
lines. Create new, custom necklines
on patterns and enhance your jew
elry (see the example on p. 51).
Outline shapes and width ofbra
cups for bra making. When mak-
ing custom bra patterns, compare
and/ or replicate your bra cup shape
with the flexible ruler.
Make quick-and-easy mitten and
slipper patter outlines. Shape the
flexible ruler around your hand or
foot to make mittens or slippers.
Make patters for dolls. Shape and
create your own doll patterns.
Create unique pocket shapes. You
can add interesting shapes to the bot
toms or tops of your pockets. Kids love
pockets that reflect their hand's shape.
Just lay their hand on pattern paper, and
shape the ruler around their hand's out
line. Add a seam allowance by outlining
the outer edge of the shape.
Shape yokes on pants and skirts. To add
shapes and designs to the smaller yoked
patterns of pants and skirts, just position
your desired shaped outline from your
c


flexible ruler onto your patterns. Trace,
notch, cut, and add seam allowances to
each of the cut edges.
These are just a few of the feats of flex
ible rulers. With these secrets and a little

imagination, flexible rulers will likely
become your favorite notion.

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0
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c

Jean Haas, the author ofmany DVs, CDs, 0

and online classes, lives in Illinois.