Textile Terms

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ABOUT TEXTILE AND TERMS RELATING TO TEXTILE
Abaca. Incorrectly called Manilla hemp. Fibre commonly used in the Philippines. Fibres are tied end to end
and woven without spinning.
Absorbent cotton. Fibre or cloth with natural oil or wax removed chemically. Because of absorbent nature,
used for surgical purposes.
Acetate rayon. See Rayon.
Ada Canvas. See Canvas.
Airplane cloth. Originally made of linen for airplane wings. Close even texture. Since the war made of cotton
in different weights and colors. Used chiefly in shirts. Weave plain.
Albatross. A light weight wool fabric with crepy surface, due to twist of yarns. Piece-dyed, usually in light colors.
Launders well. A variety of albatross 44" wide is called Cripe Egypta, a trade name. Uses: dresses, negligees and
infant's wear. Weaveplain. Width, 36".
A jours.Fr. Syns.: modes (Fr.) ; fillings, lead-works (Eng.).
Fancy open stitches introduced in spaces in the pattern of both bobbin- and needle-point lace.
Aledo. See silk and cotton fabrics.
ALENCON This, the most elaborate needle-point lace which has ever been produced in France, was first
made in about 1665
Alpaca. 1. An animal somewhat like the Angora goat, but smaller, native to South America. 2. Name of a fabric
originally made of this fibre. Similar to brilliantine and mohair. Smooth, wiry with cotton warp and worsted
filling (alpaca, mohair or any lustrous wool slightly twisted). Wears well, sheds dust. Uses: linings, men's summer
suits and office coats, women's dresses (when in vogue). . Rayon and cotton fabric called alpaca because of its
textile encyclopedia: abaca, alpaca,astrachan,Aubusson, axminster fabric ... http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-a.html
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wiry nature.
Aeolian. See Eolienne.
Annure. I. Drapery fabric with designs woven on a rep foundation, or a figure weave. Plain or mixed colors
usually of cotton. Uses: couch covers, portieres. Weave -Jacquard. Width, 50". 2. Silk fabric, closely woven
with small pebbly pattern which suggests chain armor.

Ada Canvas
Name derived from French "Armoires" meaning coat-of-arms. A stiff, rich looking silk, usually black. Uses:
cravats, trimmings, facings for men's dress coats. Weave-fancy, called barathea. Width, 20", 36". Art linen. A
general term applied to a variety of plain woven linens used for embroidery. May be unbleached, ecru, white;
"round thread" i.e., not calendered or smooth. Uses: chiefly needlework as lunch cloths, napkins, doilies, towels,
runners; also dresses, skirts, uniforms. Weave-plain. Widths 18", 20", 27", 36", 42", 45", 48", 54". 60", 72",
81", 9"-
ARGENTAN POINT : The needle-point lace made at Argentan is the only needle-point lace with a net ground besides
Alencon which has ever been made in France. It is probable that factories at both places were established in the
reign of Louis XIV. by Colbert, but its name does not appear in the ordinance.
Appliqu
A. Term used to describe a method of working lace
in which the pattern is made separately and sewn on a
net ground when completed.
B. A class of embroidery in which the pattern is cut
out of one material and sewn on (applied) a ground of
another, or on one of the same material but contrasting
in colour.
ARRAS Lace made in the north of France in Arras
Art ticking. Distinguished from regular bed ticking by its printed design. Often a floral pattern in a stripe. A
tough firm cloth. Uses: mattresses and pillow covers, sometimes as cretonne. WeaveSatin or twill. Width,
36".
Artificial leather. A substitute for leather made by coating a cotton fabric with a nitro-cellulose preparation
and embossing the surface to imitate leather. Various effects produced by kind of fabric foundation and the
color and finish of surface. A good grade of manufactured leather is more durable than a poor grade of split
leather. Sold under trade names as Pantasote, Leatkerwove, Fabrikoid, Zapon, etc. Uses: upholstering, suit
cases, millinery and dress trimmings.
Artificial silk. See Rayon.
Artificial wool. See Snia-fil.
Asbestos. Fireproof fibre of mineral origin. Spun with cotton and woven. Cotton later burned away. Used for
theater curtains and firemen's gloves.
Assisi embroidery : From Assissi in Italy. Embroidery in which the designs themselves are left unworked and
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stand out in white from a solid background worked in cross_stitches.
Astrachan. Wool coating made to imitate Astrachan or Karakul fur. Foundation cloth, knitted or woven of
cotton or wool. Curly pile of mohair yarn slightly twisted. May resemble the close curl of Persian lamb fur. Good
quality. Wears well. Uses: coats for men, women and children, caps, muffs, trimmings. Weavepile (may have
knit back). Width, 52".

Aubusson. (Fr. pr. o-bus-sone). Carpet made in Aubusson, France on hand looms. A kind of tapestry.
Austrian shade cloth. Originally made in Austria. Cotton shade cloth woven with crinkled effect in stripes,
which are similar to seersucker only broader. Fancy woven stripes in color often alternate with crinkled stripes.
Cotton, or mercerized cotton, silk or rayon used in combination. Natural, white or colored. Uses: window
shades, bed spreads. Weaveplain with fancy stripes. Width, 36", 45", 54", 72".
Axminster. Pile carpet named for town in England where first made.
Automobile tire cloth. A variety of weaves and textures made from long staple cotton for tires. Treated with
rubber and vulcanized.
Awning stripe. Duck woven with stripes (yarn dyed) for awnings and lawn umbrellas. May be used for couch
covers and chair seats.
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TEXTILE DICTIONARY AND TERMS RELATING TO TEXTILE

Baby flannel. See flannel.
Balbriggan. I. Commonly called "Bal." Fine smooth knit underwear for men made of Egyptian cotton in the
natural color. Imitation Bal made of ordinary cotton stained to imitate Egyptian. 2. Knitted dress fabric with
two or more colors (heather mixture) in the yarn. A form of jersey.
Balloon cloth. Closely woven, fine, light weight silk or cotton. Rubberized or given other treatment to make
impervious. Uses: balloon covers, tents. Weaveplain.
Back-stitch.
A stitch in embroidery worked by bringing the needle up through the material from the back on a traced line,
inserting it a little behind the point where it came out and bringing it up again the same distance beyond. It is
then put into the hole made when it was drawn out the first time, and again brought out further forward.
Back-stitch was much used in the quilted embroideries on linen of the late seventeenth and early eighteenth
centuries.
Banyan : An undress robe worn by men. The banyan was cut in two basic variations: an unfitted version
somewhat like a kimono or modern bathrobe, and a fitted version which somewhat resembled a man's coat only
with full length, loose skirts. The banyan was typically worn by gentlemen relaxing at home and was worn over
shirt, waistcoat, and breeches, usually with a cap to cover the head in lieu of a wig.(18th century)
Baronette Satin.* Trade name for rayon fabric or rayon with cotton back. Uses: sports wear, costume slips,
millinery. Weavesatin. Width, 40".
Barre. (Fr. pr. bah-ray). Any pattern produced by stripes or bars extending crosswise of the goods. Sec
Bayadere.
Basco* Trade name for cotton damask with a special linen-ized finish. Sec damask.
Basket cloth. Plain woven fabric with two or more warp yarns used as one and interlaced with two or more
filling yarns. It produces a basket effect.
Bast. Long cells beneath the woody tissue in the stalk of plants. Flax, ramie, jute, hemp are bast fibres.
Bathrobe cloth. Thick, warm, doublefaced, cottnn blanketing woven with tightly twisted warp and two sets of
soft filling, which produce a good nap. Inflammable. Nap packs down after washing. Two or more colors in
design. Sold by the yard or in pattern blankets. Uses: bathrobes, crib blankets, couch covers. WeaveJacquard.
Width, 27" or 54".
Batik, (pr. bah-teek or battik). Ancient process of resist printing. Originated in Java. Practised by modern
craftsmen and imitated in machine printing. See Printing, Resist. Batik is an Indonesian word that refers to a
generic wax-resist dyeing technique used on textile. The word originates from Javanese word "amba", meaning
to write and the Javanese word for dot or point, "titik." It is known to be more than a millennium old,
probably in ancient Egypt or Sumeria. The art of Batik reach its highest achievement in technique, intricate
design, and refined aesthetic in Java, Indonesia. The island of Java itself is famous and well known for its
textile dictionary : balbriggan, basco, batik, batiste, bayadere,bengaline http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-b.html
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exquisite batik for centuries, particularly in places such as Yogyakarta, Solo, Cirebon, and Pekalongan
BATISTE (French origin, from name of Jean Baptiste, a linen weaver). I. Soft, thin cotton fabric resembling
nainsook, only finer. Qualities vary from that of a fine nainsook to very thin and delicate grades of batiste.
Combed yarns of fme cotton are used; the better grades are highly mercerised and singed. Uses: handkerchiefs,
all kinds of lingerie and infant's wear; the coarser grades for linings and undergarments. White and delicate
colors. Weaveplain. Width, 30", 36", 45". 2. Light weight, fine, smooth wool fabric similar to nun's veiling, only
finer. Lends itself to

Batik Javanese wax painting (hand process)
draping effects and shirring. Plain colors. Uses: children's dresses, negligees. Weaveplain. Width, 40", 44".
BAYADERE (Fr. pr. by-ad-air). Stripes in strongly contrasted colors, running across the fabric. Name derived
from garment worn by dancing girls in India.-
bearskin : A particular sort of thick, shaggy woolen fabric (18th century)
Beaver. Thick, woolen fabric with a napped finish similar to broadcloth. Originally made in England to resemble
beaver fur, hence the name. The length of the nap varies greatly. A kind of beaver cloth used in millinery is a pile
fabric somewhat resembling hatter's plush. The thirty and thirty-two ounce beavers used for uniforms and
overcoats may be compared with kersey. They do not have the hard finish of melton, but always show a nap.
Weave: twill. Width 52", 60".
Bedford cord. Corded material first made in this country in New Bedford, hence the name. A similar material
in cotton which originated in France is called pique\ First made with cords running from selvagd to selvage. In
modern practice both pique and Bedford cord have cords running lengthwise. Worsted, silk, cotton or
combinations. Wearing quality, excellent, unless weave is loose with weak filling yarns. Uses: infant's wraps,
riding habits, coats. Weavefancy. Width, 44", 50", 54". SEE PIQUE .
Beetling. A pounding process which gives round thread linen cloth a flat effect. When beetled, linen damask
has a leather-like texture.
Beige. (Fr. pr. bay-zh). 1. Natural tan or ecru color or undyed yarn or fabric. 2. A kind of wool fabric no longer
on the market.
Bengaline. Similar to poplin only heavier. Silk warp with worsted filling. Lower grades have cotton filling;
sometimes silk is used. Warp entirely covers filling. Yarn-dyed. Wears very well unless loosely woven. Uses:
dresses, coats, trimmings. Weavecorded (variation of plain). Width, 36", 40".
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Bib: piece attached to some aprons to cover or decorate the front of the torso. The bib was generally wider at
the top than at the bottom, where it joined the skirt of the apron; sometimes the tapering was quite extreme, so
that the bib served little to protect the clothing. Most English and French children's aprons had bibs. Bibs were
quite common on French women's aprons as well, but were extremely rare on Englishwomen's aprons.
Billiard cloth. Woolen cloth or felt dyed green for covering billiard tables.
Birdseye. 1. Weave. Small geometric pattern resembling a bird's eye. 2. Cotton diaper cloth. Characteristic
weave. Filling yarns loosely twisted to make cloth more absorbent. Sold in ten-yard pieces. Uses: diapers and
sanitary napkins. Weavefigured. Width, 18", 20", 22", 24", 27", 30". 3. Linen birdseye in many variations of
weave for fancy towels and runners, may be union. Weavefigure. Width, 16", 18", 20"-.
Blanc (Fr. pr. Wong, meaning white). In the French dry goods trade everything which is bleached.
Blanket. Cotton, wool or mixed fabric. Usually napped. Single or double size for bed covers. Horse blankets
are heavy felted, coarse. Weaveplain or twill.
Bleaching. The process of whitening textile materials. Bleaching may be done in the yarn or in the piece.
Chemical bleaching (chlorine) is most frequently used for cotton and linen. For the latter sun bleaching is
preferred. Wool and silk are usually bleached with sulphur dioxide or hydrogen peroxide which is harmless to
fibres but not permanent.
Block printing. The hand printing of fabrics with blocks, as distinguished from modem printing with rollers.
Blond net. See net.

Birdseye (cotton) Absorbent filling yarns on the surface
Bobbins.
Elongated spools of wood or bone with a " neck " at the upper end round which the thread used in making lace
on the pillow is wound.
Bobbinet net. See net.
Bodice: A woman's fitted garment which covers primarily the torso.
Boiled-off silk. Silk which has had the sericin or natural gum removed. See degumming.
Bolivia. Woolen or worsted weft pile fabric. Soft and velvet-like in feel. Made in variety of trade marked
materials as Marvella.*
Boll. (pr. bole). Seed pod of cotton plant. Contains cotton fibres.
Bolt. Entire length of cloth from loom, rolled or folded. Called piece or cut of cloth. Bolts vary in length.
Bolting cloth. Stiff, transparent fabric made of silk in the gum. Made only on hand looms in Europe, mostly in
Switzerland. 24 different numbers from 0000, the coarsest, to 25, the finest (200 meshes to the lineal inch).
Uses: fine sifting in flour mills, also for stencils, sign making, foundation for wigs and toupees. Weaveleno.
Width, 40".
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bonnet: headcovering for women
Book fold. Method of folding cloth instead of winding in a bolt. Opens like a book.
Boott mills* Trade name for cotton toweling in fancy weave; absorbent and durable.
Boot. Part of hose, usually silk or rayon, between foot and cotton top.
Botany. Originally fine merino wool from Botany Bay, Australia. General term for all classes of fine wool.
BOUCLE (pr. boo-clay). Having knots or loops on the surface as imitation astrachan.
Bourdon:Embroidery stitch which revolves around wadding and forms a raised pattern.
BOURETTE : Bourrette is a light weight, single cloth fabric, weighing from 4% to 6 ounces, composed of
two-ply cotton warp, and either wool, merino or a combination of cotton and wool shoddy Ailing
Boutis: Southern France tradition, the art of boutis was highly prized in the 17th and 18th centuries. The boutis
is embroidery on two sewn cloths, giving printed or plain motifs a raised pattern, and filled inside with a layer of
cotton
Button-hole Stitch.
The simple loop or hitch which is the fundamental stitch in needle-point lace of all kinds. It was extensively used
as a surface-stitch (q.v.) in the stump-embroidery of the seventeenth century. It is rarely found in very early
work
Box loom. Fabrics made with 1. right and left hand twist in filling as "box loom crepe" (Japanese Crgpe) or 2.
different colors in filling which necessitate the box loom attachment in weaving as in plaid ginghams.
Brides.Fr. Syns. : bars, legs (Eng.).
The ties in bobbin and needle-point lace which connect and support the pattern when there is no net ground.
Brilliantine. Smooth, wiry material the same as alpaca or mohair. A heavier quality is called Sicilian Cloth.
Warp, cotton; filling, lustrous wool or mohair with little twist. Sheds dust, does not wrinkle. Used for dresses
only when stiff fabrics are in vogue. Excellent wearing quality. Uses: linings, office coats, dusters, dresses.
Weave plain or twill. Width, 44", 50", 52", 54".
Broadcloth. 1. Lustrous, rich-looking woolen fabric. Nap lies in one direction which requires more cloth in
cutting Stock-dyed or piece-dyed. Good quality, wears very well. Uses: dresses, suits, coats. Weavetwill.
Width, SO", 54". 2. Fine, closely woven shirting or dress goods. Made of silk, mercerized cotton, silk and cotton
and rayon and cotton mixtures. Resembles the best habutae or fine poplin. "English broadcloth" is a fine
imported fabric. Uses: shirts, dresses, childrens suits, pajamas. Weave plain. Width, 32", 36".
Broad silk. Wide silks; those distinguished from ribbons and eighteen-inch silk.
Brocade. Originally heavy silk with elaborate pattern in silver and gold threads. Name applied to many
materials which resemble historic brocades. When designs are woven in relief against a foundation of another
weave, as a satin ground, the material is said to be brocaded. A contrast of surfaces in the weave may produce
pattern, or different colors may be introduced. Brocade has an embossed appearance, while damask has a flat
effect. Weave-Jacquard.
Brocatelle (pr. brok-a-tell or brok-a-tell). A variation of brocade with a higher relief or repousse effect with
warp and filling yarns unequally twisted and an extra set of yarns for backing. Jacquard pattern stands out in a
raised or blistered effect.
Broche (pr. bro-shay). French term for brocade. Woven with a raised figure, usually in imitation of
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embroidery as Broche' shawls, another name for Paisley shawls.
Brussels, i. Body Brussels. Carpet or rug woven with uncut pile on the face. Back of cotton, hemp or jute.
Yarn-dyed wool carried to back when not forming loops. Best grade of Brussels; wears very well. 2. Tapestry
Brussels. Yarn for surface loops not dyed but warp printed. Loops all on the surface. Sometimes woven plain
and pattern printed on surface of loops, low grade of Brussels.
BRUSSELS LACE
Brushed wool. Knit fabrics for sweaters, scarfs, trimmings which have been napped. Usually contain mohair
fibres which make long, silky nap.
Buckram. Millinery fabric, two ply, stiffened with sizing or glue. One side resembles crinoline and the other
tarlatan. The two fabrics are glued together. Can be moistened and shaped. Black or white. Sold by the yard or
ten yard bolt. Uses: frames for velvet or cloth hats. Width, 27".
Bunting. Prom the German "bunt", bright, gay. I. Cotton colored fabric similar to cheesecloth. Tends to fade.
Uses: flags and festive decorations. Weaveplain. Width, 25", 27", 36". 2. Wool bunting made of worsted yarns
of strong, wiry wool. Similar to nun's veiling, but narrower and coarser. Durable. Uses: flags, signals for trains
and boats; a softer quality for dress goods. Weave plain. Width, 18", 36".
Burlap or gunny. Coarse canvas made of jute. Natural color or piece-dyed. Fades. Uses: low grades for gunny
sacks and wrapping furniture; firmer quality with finish for drapery purposes. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 50".
Butcher's linen. Coarse, bleached crash originally used for butcher's aprons. Practically replaced by art
crashes and Indian head* Weaveplain. Width, 36", 40",
Buty Chine* Trade marked fabric for lingerie purposes in satin weave of mercerized cotton.
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Cable net. See net.
Calendering. Finish on cotton and linen goods which gives smooth surface, not permanent. Cloth passed
between cylinders with heat and pressure.
Calico. Name derived from Calicut, India, where cloth was first printed with wood blocks by hand. Originally a
fine printed cotton fabric, which has become an inferior material; narrow, coarse, made from low grade cotton
and highly sized. There are still some good calicoes, but they are more in the nature of chintzes, i.e., with good
design and colorings and used for drapery purposes. Percale has almost replaced calico. Calico may be printed
directly, or may have the figure discharged chemically from a dark background. Some calicoes are not printed
as Turkey red and other plain colors. It does not tear straight across the cloth because of rapid feeding into the
calender machine. Uses: aprons, dresses. Weaveplain. Width, 25", 27".
Cambric. Name from Cambrai, France, where linen cambric first made. I. White cotton fabric, closely woven,
fine, soft or with little sizing, calendered with a gloss on the right side. Uses: underwear, aprons,, shirts.
Weaveplain. Width, 36".. 2. Lining cambric, thin, narrow, stiff, glazed, white or piece-dyed. Does not launder.
Similar to paper cambric. White and plain colors. Uses: linings, pattern modelling, scrap books, fancy dress
costumes. Weave plain. Width, 25", 27". 3. Linen, fine smooth, white. Uses: collars, cuffs, shirt bosoms,
church embroidery, lunch cloths, napkins, doilies. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 45"
Camel's hair or Camel-hair. 1. Hair-like wool from camel, light brown in color. Uses: paint brushes,
oriental rugs, coatings. 2. Coating made in natural camel's hair color. Value depends upon quality of fibres.
Good grade very soft and light in weight. Weaveusually twill. Canton Crepe. Crepy wool fabric or silk
goods resembling a
heavy grade of crepe de chine.
textile encyclopedia: cambric, camel-hair, canton fabrics, canvas, cashmer... http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-c.html
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Canton fabrics. General term covering cotton and silk mixtures known only by trade names as^4. B,
C.,*Seco, Fairy, etc.
Canton flannel. So named because first made in Canton, China. Heavy cotton material with twilled
surface on one side and long soft nap on the other. Valuable for its warmth and absorbing quality. Bleached
or unbleached or piece-dyed in plain colors. Uses: sleeping garments, inter-linings, household purposes,
diapers. Weavetwill. Width, 27", 36".
Canton linen. Commonly called grass cloth, Chinese grass cloth or grass linen. Fine, translucent fabric
which looks like linen. Made of ramie fibre (china grass). It wrinkles like linen, but has a distinctive, clear,
oiled appearance due to lustre of ramie fibres when not twisted. Much worn in China in the stiff (or natural
gum) unbleached state. Mostly hand woven. Cool and durable. Bleached or dyed blue. Sold in Oriental
shops. Uses: lunch cloths, doilies, blouses. Weaveplain. Width, 12", 18", 32", 36".
Canvas. Heavy, firm, even weave in linen or cotton. 1. Ada canvas or Java canvas. Coarse, stiff, rather open
fabric of the canvas type. Originally made of linen, now usually of cotton. Color, ecru or tan. Uses: art
needlework, particularly gros point. Weavefancy (modification of basket). Width, 40", 44". 2. Awning
stripe. Duck woven in colored stripes. Uses: awnings, hammocks, couch covers. Weaveplain. Width, 29",
36". See Duck. 3. Cross-stitch canvas or Penelope canvas. Stiff open fabric somewhat resembling tarlatan
only heavier and stiffer. Some grades have stripes or bars of blue yarn at intervals for marking off spaces.
Different sizes of mesh. Use: for working cross-stitch patterns. Weaveplain.
Cape net. See Rice Net.

Carding. Process of separating fibres preliminary to spinning. Cartridge cloth. Plain woven, spun silk
fabric for cartridge bags. Made according to U. S. government specifications
Casement cloth. Broad term which covers many drapery
fabrics usually light, plain, neutral colors as cream, ecru,
Canvas, Cross Stitch or Penelope
oyster, gray and tan. A variety of weaves are employed as plain, twill, satin striped, small figure. In silk, silk
and cotton, mercerized cotton or rayon. Uses: curtains, particularly for French windows, screens.
Weaveplain or fancy. Width, 36", 45 ', 48", 50". 54".
Cashmere. 1. Light weight dress fabric originally made from any fine wool of the Cashmere goat, but now
from any fine wool. Similar to henrietta, but not so closely woven or highly finished. Piece-dyed. Launders.
Uses: dresses, negligees, infant's wear. Weavetwill, filling on
the face. Width, 42". 2. Hosiery "made entirely of high grade pure wool". Ruling of Federal Trade Commission.
Term has been misused.
Cassimere. Cloth for men's suits, made of hard spun yarns finished without a nap. Not typical worsted.
Weave plain, twill or fancy. Width, 54".
Celanese.* Trade name for a kind of rayon made by the acetate process.
Chain. Another name for warp.
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Chain-stitch.
An embroidery stitch worked by putting the needle in from the back, pulling it through and holding the
thread down with the left thumb. The needle is then inserted at the point whence it came out, a small portion
of the ground material taken up on it and the thrfad drawn through, the point of the needle being kept above
the held down thread. Thus is formed the first link of the chain. The stitch is of great antiquity and was
extensively introduced in Anglo-Saxon ecclesiastic embroidery. It fell into disuse during the greater part of
the seventeenth century at the end of which, however, it re-appeared. Chain-stitch has always been con-
spicuous in the needlework of Oriental countries.
Challie or Challis (pr. shal-ee). Originally a silk and worsted fabric made in Norwich, England. 1. Light
weight dress fabric of wool or cotton and wool. Similar to old-fashioned muslin de laine. Soft, smooth yarns.
Always printed (direct or discharge). Wears and launders well. Sec Kobe Flannel. Uses: negligees and
dresses. Weave-plain. Width, 27", 30". 2. Light weight, soft cotton printed material similar to voile but not
so fine or smooth. Wears and launders well. Uses: comforters, linings, draperies; better grades for kimonos
and dresses. Weave-plain. Width, 27", 36".
Chambray (pr. sham-bray). A type of gingham, plain in color, often having dyed warp and white filling.
Chambray gingham wears well and is easily laundered. Weave-plain. Width, 27", 28", 32", 36".
Manchester chambray, the old type, was narrow, thin and stiff. Weaveplain. Widtb.25". Heavy English
chambrays are used for work shirts and are sold by weight, as for example, 3.8o equals three and eight-
tenths yards to the pound. Weaveplain. Width, 28".
Chamoisette.* See Fabric gloves.
Chamoisuede.* See Fabric gloves.
CHANTILLY Lace made in Chantilly France.
Chardonnet (Fr. pr. Shar-don-nay). Nitrocellulose process for making rayon named for Count de
Chardonnet.
Charmeen* Fine worsted dress fabric with a steep twill which resembles satin weave.
Charmeuse (pr. shar-muz). 1. Light weight, rich looking satin weave with a dull back. May be described as
a very soft satin with a subdued lustre, due to the spun silk filling; adapted to draping. Piece dyed. Uses:
gowns, party wraps. Weavesatin. Charmeuse is a highly mercerized cotton fabric used for bloomers,
slips, linings. Lingetle* and Buty Chine* are trade names.
Cheesecloth. Originally used for wrapping cheese. Thin, loosely woven cotton material made from coarse
yarns. It is unfinished, feels soft, has fuzzy surface. Bleached, unbleached or dyed. Better grades launder but
shrink. All grades called gauze by the manufacturer.

Chenille yarn Showing process of making chenille
called bunting. Uses: poorer quality called hospital gauze for dressings. Better gradescurtains, pageant
costumes, pattern modelling and many other purposes. Weaveplain. Width, 25", 36". Chenille (pr.
shen-eel). French for caterpillar. 1. Name for a yarn having a pile protruding all around at right angles. Used
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for filling in cloth, also for fringe and tassels. May be of silk, wool, mercerized cotton or rayon. 2. Cloth
made with Chenille yarn for filling, used for hangings and couch covers. 3. Kind of carpet or rug reversible
(Smyrna type) or single faced. Plain color or designs. Good quality, rich looking and durable.
Cheviot. So called because originally made of wool from the Cheviot sheep. 1. Rough-surfaced wool fabric
similar to serge only heavier and rougher. May be made of woolen or worsted yarns. Stock- or piece-dyed.
Somewhat fulled and napped. Excellent wearing quality. Uses: suits and coats. Weavetwill. Width, 28",
42", 48", 50", 54", 56", 58". 2. Stout, cotton shirting made of coarse yarns. Softer than hickory shirting or
gingham. Stripes or checks. Yarn-dyed. Brown and white or blue and white. Weave plain. Width, 28".
Chiffon (Fr "chiffon", arag; pr. sheef-ong). 1. Descriptive term indicating light weight and soft finish as
chiffon velvet or taffeta. 2. Light weight silk hose, usually four strand yarns. 3. Thin, gauze-like silk fabric
with soft or sometimes a stiff finish. Warp and filling of hard twist singles. Chiffon cloth is heavier in weight
than chiffon and more durable. Uses: party gowns, veils, trimmings. Weave plain. Width, 40", 46".
Chimney:Piece of fabric sewn at the foot of the quilt enabling it to be tucked in.
China cotton. Short staple, white cotton grown in- China. Coarse and harsh with a feel which resembles wool.
Used in cotton blankets and in cotton and wool mixtures.
China grass. See Ramie.
China silk. Originally, plain hand woven silks made in China. Soft, light weight, thin silk. Wears and launders
well. Piece-dyed. Heavy weight is habuta?. Uses: linings, underwear, dresses, lampshades. Weaveplain.
Width, 27", 36".
Chinchilla cloth as distinguished from fur of the same name. No resemblance. Heavy coating with napped
surface rolled into little tufts or nubs. Double cloth, may contain cotton. Warm and attractive. Uses: overcoats,
children's coats. Weavetwill (double cloth). Width, 54".
Chine (pr. she-nay). From French "Chine", variegated, mottled. In the technical sense means warp printed.
Used as an adjective in describing fabrics.
Chintz. Originally any printed cotton fabric, the same as calico. Now a drapery fabric having small, gay
figures,
Some chintzes have a glazed surface. See Glazed chintz. Weaveplain. Width, 25", 36",
Chlorinated wool. Wool made non-shrinking by treatment with hydrochloric acid. Harsh and stiff. Increased
affinity for dyes.
Cinderella. A trade named silk fabric similar to Pussy Willow.*
Circular knit. Fabric or garment made in tubular form on Chintz Direct print
flat or circular machine. Seamless hose, bathing suits,
jersey fabric, tubular belts, etc., made in this way. Cire. Brilliant patent leather effect produced on satin (cloth
or ribbon) by application of wax, heat and pressure,
Clay worsted. Name derived from an English manufacturer.
A heavy cloth of diagonal weave, looser than a serge, used
for mens' wear. Clock. Design on side of ankle in fancy hose. Made by
open effect in knitting or by embroidery.
Cochineal. Red dye derived from dried bodies of insects native to Central America
Coir (pr. kwor). Brown coarse fibre from the shell of the coconut used in making mats and cordage.
Combing. Preparation of wool or cotton for spinning by separating long from short fibres and arranging in
parallel fashion. Follows carding. Finest cotton fabrics made from combed yarns. Worsted yarns require
combed fibres.
Combed Cotton:Spun cotton yarn, quite fine, having undergone a combing treatment during spinning.
Composition dot. See Flock dot.
Conditioning. Process which determines the percentage of moisture present in samples of fibres or fabrics.
CORDUROY. Derived from the French Corde du Roi, meaning a King's cord. Kind of cotton velvet having ridges or
cords in the pile. Made with an extra weft of mercerized yarns which float on the surface at intervals. Floats are
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cut, making tufts stand up in corded effect. Surface brushed and singed. Piece-dyed or printed. Often
cravenetted. Boyduroy*, a trade name. Uses; suits, trousers, coats, infant's wraps, carriage robes and
upholstery; excellent for sports wear. Weavepile. Width, 27", 36".
Cotton Charmeuse. See Charmeuse.
Cotton and wool mixtures. Large class of fabrics, usually in checks, or plaids, used chiefly for children's
dresses. Warp, cotton; filling, wool or part wool, yarn-dyed. Better grades launder well. Weavetwill. Width,
36", 40".
Cottonade. See Hickory.
Count. 1. Term indicating the number of ends and picks per inch, for example, the thread count of a fabric
may be 86 x 80. 2. Yarn counta number given to yarn indicating its fineness, based upon number of yards per
pound, more correctly called "yarn number".
Coutil. French "Fildecoutil", drill (pr. coo-tcel). Tough, firm variety of drilling used for corsets. Made from
hard twisted cotton yarns. Close weave. A variety of effects produced by weave which varies from twill to many
fancy stripes and figures, usually herringbone twill. Width, 36", 50".
Course. In knit goods, the row of stitches across the fabric. Corresponds to weft in woven goods.
Covert, (pr. like "cover", taken from a hunting term). I. Medium weight suiting of woolen or worsted yarns.
Warp is formed of two-ply yarns, one of which is white (tightly twisted). This gives a specked effect in color. The
white is often cotton. Hard or soft finished. Yarn-dyed. Colors castor, tan, green, gray or drab. Excellent for
wear. Uses: overcoats, riding habits, suits, rain coats. Weavetwill or satin. Width, 54". 2. Cotton covert,
seldom sold in department stores by the yard. Usually gray, either plain or dark stripes. Resembles a wool
suiting. Uses: trousers. Weavetwill. Width, 36".
Crash. Term applied to several fabrics having coarse, uneven yarns and rough texture. I. Dress linen or cotton.
Various weights and colors. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 2. Art linen. White, natural or dyed. Weaveplain.
Width, 20", 27", 36", 45", 54". 3. Drapery fabric. Natural or colors. Jute may be combined with linen or cotton.
Uses: hangings, upholstery, pillows, table runners. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 50". 4. Toweling. Linen,
cotton or union (cotton warp, linen filling). Valued for its absorbing property. Rough, loosely spun yarns absorb
better but are less strong than tightly twisted ones. Uses: towels, dresser runners, art needlework. Weaveplain
or twill. Width, 15", 16", 18", 20". 5. Russian crash. Practically off the market during and since the war. Coarse,
uneven handspun linen yarns containing some woody fibres. Handwoven by Russian peasants. Natural color.
Width, 15" to 18". 6. Novelty wool fabrics sometimes called crash because of texture.
Cravenetting. Process of rendering fabrics waterproof or moisture repellent. Named for Craven, the
inventor. Cravenette* is a trade name for a finish applied to materials rendering them resistant to water.
Crepe. General term covering many kinds of crinkled or uneven surfaced materials.
Japanese. Plain colored cotton material. Crgpi-ness is due to the right and left hand twist of filling yarns; white
and all colors; yarn-dyed stripes; made in Japan. Uses: kimonos, smocks, women's and children's dresses,
curtains, needlework. Weaveplain. Width, 29".
Kimono. Characteristic ridges make it resemble crepe paper. Permanently creped in grooves lengthwise by
engraved rollers with heat, pressure and chemicals. Requires no ironing. White, plain colors and printed.
Serpentine crepe* is a trade name for this fabric. Uses: kimonos. Weave plain. Width, 30".
Mourning . crepe. Dull, crisp, black silk crepe woven in the gum. Used for mourning millinery and trimmings.
Plisse. (Fr. plaited, pr. plee-say). Light weight thin cotton fabric with puckered stripes or all over blistery effect
produced by chemicals. Wax deposited on the cloth in stripes; dipped in alkali; the uncovered portions shrink.
When the wax is removed puckered stripes result. Durable material, requires no ironing. White, lingerie colors
and prints. Use: lingerie. Weaveplain. Width, 29".

Wool crepe or Crepon. Rather wiry fabric. Surface effect due to treatment of yarns (difference in the degree
of twist, or left and right hand twist in same fabric) or having some warp yarns slacker than others. Good
wearing quality. Weave plain. Width, 36", 40", 50", 54".
Silk and cotton mixtures. Cotton warp. CrSpy effect due to right and left hand twist in spun silk filling. Also
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rayon and cotton combinations. Sold in cotton goods section. Has little strength crosswise because of light
weight spun silk yarn. Uses: underwear, dresses. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 54".
Crepe-back satin. Fabric woven in the gum with of satin face and back of tightly twisted yarns, alternating
right and left hand twist, which makes a dull, crfipy surface when degummcd. Width 40", 54".
Creped or Craped. From the Latin "crispare", to curl (rendering a fabric crimpy or crepy). Many effects are
produced as:
Hard twisted yarns in right and left twist, warp or filling, or both which kink up when released from the loom.
Examplesgeorgette, Japanese crepe.
Alternate groups of warp yarns, some wound on separate beam or held slacker than the rest, forming crinkled
stripes as in seersucker, ripplette* or Austrian cloth.
Treatment with chemicals to produce blistery or creped surface as Plisse crepe.
Engraved rollers or grooves plus chemicals produce a fabric like Kimono crepe.
Heat and engraved rollers produce mourning or hard crapes which are woven from hard-spun silk in the gum.
Crepe de Chine. French "de chine" meaning "of China" Silk, crepy fabric woven in the gum of tightly twisted
yarns having right and left hand twist. Crepiness appears after degumming. Heavy Crepe de Chine is very
durable. Washable. If light in weight, yarns "slip" causing open spaces. Piece-dyed or printed. Seldom
weighted. Uses: underwear, blouses, ties, dresses, trimmings. Weaveplain. Width, 40". Crepe
meteor. Replaced by crepe back satin.
Cretonne. Printed drapery fabric of cotton or linen in all variety of weaves and finishes. May include chintz
(only difference being size of patterns, which are smaller in chintz). Uses: hangings, upholstery.
Weaveplain or fancy. Width, 25", 36", 50", 54"-Crinoline. Stiff, open fabric used for interlinings and hat
construction. Highly sized with a dull finish. Weave plain. Width, 27". Crocking. When goods is poorly
dyed and excess color rubs
off, it is said to "crock".
CRINOLINE Crinoline is a fabric composed of cotton warp, horsehair filling or all cotton yarns.
Crofting. Scotch term for bleaching linen on the grass.
Cross-dyeing. See Dyeing.
Cross-stitch.Syn. : sampler-stitch.
An embroidery stitch formed by crossing two slanting stitches so that their four points mark out a perfect
square, the threads of the linen or canvas being always followed. It is an old stitch but appears but rarely on
Cross-stitch canvas. See Canvas.
Cuprammonium rayon. One of the four processes by which rayon is manufactured. Cut pile. A fabric in
which the loops formed in the process of weaving are cut, as in Wilton carpet; distinguished from uncut pile as
in Brussels carpet. Cut Velvet. Brocaded velvet pattern on georgette or voile background. Dress fabric,
Jacquard weave. Daisy cloth.* See outing flannel.
Cushion-stitch.
A name sometimes applied to cross-stitch, but more generally used to indicate the diaper-patterns formed of
groups of straight stitches of varying length which are introduced as grounds or fillings, in embroideries of
many periods and nationalities.
Cut-work. Syns.: point coupe" (Fr.) ; punto tagliato (Ital.). The immediate ancestor of needle-point lace.
From a piece of linen portions were cut out and the holes thus made filled with bars of thread cased with
buttonhole-stitch and forming a geometrical pattern
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DAMASK. Named for ancient city of Damascus where elaborate floral designs were woven in silk. Damask is
flatter than brocade and is reversible. The pattern changes in color on the wrong side or, in table damask the
contrast of warp and filling satin reveals the pattern. On the right side of linen damask the background is in warp
face satin with the design in filling face satin. On the wrong side the figures are reversed.
Drapery and upholstery damask originally made of silk on hand looms. Modern damasks arc of wool, silk, rayon,
mercerized cotton or combinations of these. See Lampas. Uses: upholstery, hangings. WeaveJacquard.
Width, 50"
Damasks in wool and silk are sometimes fashionable for wraps and dresses.
TABLE DAMASK.
(a) Linen. Both Jacquard patterns and satin weave are called damask. The best grades are "double damask"
because of the fineness and construction of the cloth. The satin weave of which the pattern is formed is an
"8-shaft" satin meaning that each yarn passes over seven and binds the eighth. The lower grades with Damask
(table linen) Right side of double damask
looser weave have "5-shaft" satin construction with every yarn skipping four and binding the fifth. Both are sized,
calendered and beetled. Double damask is more compact and may be thinner than single damask. The former is
more beautiful and will last longer. It has a firm, leathery feel. Table damask is woven by the yard or in pattern
cloths. The latter is in greater demand. WeaveJacquard. Napkins, 12", 13", 14", 16", 18", 20", 22", 24"
square. Cloths
(b) Cotton damask is used extensively for tablecloths and napkins, particularly for institutions and commercial
dining halls. The background is usually made of filling face satin, the reverse of linen damask. Basco* is a trade
name for a special linenized finish on cotton cloths.
Degumming. Process of removing natural gum or sericin
from silk. May be done before weaving or afterward as in
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the case of georgette.
Delaine. French term "de laine" meaning "of wool".
1. Old name for challis.
2. Fine quality wool grown in Ohio.
DENIM.
From the French town of Nimes, "serges de Nimes". Heavy cotton twill made of coarse yarns.
1. Overall denim is indigo blue or dark brown. Yarn dyed. Indigo superior to other blues. Denim is sold by
weight. Eight ounce indicates two yards to the pound. "White back" denim, made with brown or blue warp and
white filling " Double and Twist" means yarns are doubled and then twisted. Denim shrinks in washing. Uses:
overalls, children's play suits, aprons for workmen. Weave twill. Width, 28", 29".
2. Drapery denim is finer and has softer finish than overall denim; usually yarn-dyed and woven in small
geometric figure. Uses: couch covers, upholstery, hangings, slip covers. Weavetwill or figure. Width, 36",
54".
Denier (pr. de-neer). An old French coin. Unit of measurement for weight of raw silk and of rayon yarns.
Devonshire. See gingham.
Diagonal. General term meaning a broad or conspicuous twill.
Diana.* See Sunfast curtain fabrics.
Diaper. Originally a rich, silk fabric woven in a small diamond shaped pattern. See Birdseye.
Dice. Pattern in table cloth formed of squares in satin or
twill weave.
Dimity.
Origin from Latin dimitum, of double thread.
1. Light-weight fine cotton fabric with corded stripes
or bars. White, printed or dyed. Good quality
wears well. Poor grade tends to split on stripe due
to uneven strength of warp and filling yarns.
Uses: lingerie, infant's wear, pajamas, dresses.
Weaveplain. Width, 30", 32".
2, Bedspreads called dimity are like seersucker with
puckered stripes. Light-weight, wash well, used in
hospitals and other institutions. Also called
crinkle spreads. Sizes most used are: 63" by 90",
81" by 90", 90" by 100". Ripplette* is a trade
name.
Dip-dyeing. See Dyeing.
Direct printing. The simple method of printing cloth. Woven goods receives color from engraved rolls or
blocks m much the same way as paper is printed (distinction from warp printing). See Discharge and Resist
Printing.
Discharge Printing. Fabric is piece-dyed, the color afterward removed in certain places by the action of
chemicals. Example: blue percale with white dots.
Dobby. Loom on which small figure weaves may be produced.
Doeskin. 1. Heavy twilled cotton fabric napped on one side. Used for backing on artificial leather and for
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sports coats. 2, Woolen fabric with short napped surface.
Domet. Old term for a napped fabric similar to outing flannel.
Domestic. Originally goods made in this country. Now, coarse cotton fabrics as ticking, many of which are
used for household purposes. Domestics are grouped with t adding.
Double cloth. Cloths woven with two sets of warp and one filling, one warp and two fillings, two fillings and
two warps or with a fifth set of binding yarns to unite the two cloths. Example: double-faced coatings, ribbons
and Jacquard blankets. Both sides may be alike or show a pattern reversed in color. Weavetwill, satin,
Jacquard, combined in various ways with various finishes.
Double damask. See Damask.
Drap. French for cloth.
Dresden. Refers to color effect in designs (usually warp
printed) which resemble in delicacy the famous Dresden
china.
Dressing,
i. Size made of gum, glue, starch, China clay,
etc., used to finish cotton, linen and silk goods.
2. Process
of finishing cloth.
3. Weighting of silk.
Drilling. Origin Latin " trilix ", three threads. Stout, twilled
cotton material, bleached, unbleached or piece-dyed usually unbleached. Light weight drill called Jean or Middy
Twill. A khaki-colored drill is called Khaki. Known by weight as 2.50 meaning 2.50 yards in one pound. Other
common weightsare 2.85 and 3.00. Uses: uniforms, pocket linings, middy blouses. Weavetwill. Width, 28",
30".
Drop box. Device on a loom for supplying different colors of filling yarns for stripes or filling yarns of different
twist as in Japanese crepe. See Box loom.
Drop-stitch. Striped open effect in knit goods produced by dropping needles out of the work at intervals.
Drugget. Coarse wool rug or floor covering made in India.
Druid's cloth. Name for a drapery fabric similar to Monk's cloth only coarser,

Duck or canvas. So called because it sheds water. Heavy, close, cotton fabric. Strongest ducks have double
warp yarn. Made to specification for Army and Navy uses. Bleached, unbleached, dyed or printed. Sold by weight
as 8 ounce or 10 ounce meaning I yard weighs 8 or io ounces. For clothing, launders well with starch. Weights: 8,
io, 12, 14 up to 25 ounces. Uses: Heavy grades for tents, awnings, boat sails, tarpaulins, aprons and belts in
machinery; lighter weights; outing suits, middies, physicians' coats, interne's uniforms, cook's coats, waiter's and
butcher's aprons (black and white check for cook's pants), press cloths used in tailoring.
Duretta.* Trade name for middy twill or jean. Used for nurses and physicians' uniforms, middies, children's
suits.
Duvetyn. French "duvet"fordown. (pr. duv-teen). 1. Soft woolen fabric with spun silk or mercerized cotton back.
Fine, downy nap raised with an emery cylinder. Not intended for hard wear. No longer on the market. Uses:
Coats, suits, dresses. Weavetwill. Width, 54". 2. Spun silk woven with mercerized cotton warp and emerized.
Known as silk duvetyn. Not adapted to hard wear. Uses: millinery, trimmings. Weavetwill. Width, 40".
Duplex. See Fabric gloves.
Dyeing.
The process of coloring materials.
1. Cross-dyeing. Method of dyeing striped or checked fabrics which contain yarns of animal and vegetable
fibres. For example, in a cotton and wool mixture, cotton yarns, dyed first, then woven with wool and dipped in a
dye for wool which will not take on cotton.
2. Dip-dyeing. Hosiery and other knit goods dyed after knitting. Corresponds to piece-dye for woven goods.
3. Ingrain. Hosiery yarn-dyed before knitting as distinguished from dip-dyed. Contrasting color in stripe at
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top or closing of heel and toe identifies ingrain hose.
4. Piece-dyeing. Same as Dip-dyeing.
5. Stock-dyeing. Fibres dyed before spinning. Origin of expression "dyed in the wool".
6. Yarn-dyeing. Yarns dyed before weaving as for plaids or stripes
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FABRIC DEFINITIONS AND TERMS RELATING TO FABRICS

Ecru (pr. ay-kroo). Light tan, deeper than cream.
Ecru silk. Silk which has only a small amount of natural gum removed
.
Egyptian cotton. Long staple, fine, strong cotton grown in Egypt. Brownish color. Used extensively in knitted goods,
particularly in hosiery.
Eiderdown. Name derived from the down of the cider duck. Warm, light, elastic cloth with heavy nap on one or both
sides. Made on a cotton knitted foundation. Loose wool yarns or cotton or mixtures are knitted into stockinette by the
same machine which constructs the material. Surface is napped to give light, fluffy feel. Yarn- or piece-dyed. White or
colors. Uses: infants'wear, bathrobes, and negligees. Weaveknitted structure. Width, double faced (nap on both
sides), 27", 36", 45"; single faced (cotton back, wool nap), 36".
Embossing. Fabric pressed between engraved rollers with heat to give a raised effect, similar to embossed
stationery. Washing or steaming removes the design. Embossed velvet or plush is done by weaving the pile high and
shearing it to different levels or by pressing part of the pile flat.
Embroidery linen. See Art linen.
Emerizing. Kind of fine napping done with an emery-covered cylinder which makes the surface of cloth resemble
suede or chamois. Chamoisettt* for gloves is emerized.
End. Warp yarn or thread.
English foot. Full-fashioned hose with seam on each side of foot made in England for sports hose.
Eolienne or Eolian. From the Greek, iEolus, God of the Winds. Similar to poplin, only lighter in weight. Characterized
by heavy filling yams which produce a cord effect. Usually silk warp with cotton or worsted filling. Piece-dyed. Uses:
same as poplin. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 40".
Epingle. Fine rib effect running crosswise of cloth. A variety of fabrics are referred to as epingles.
Eponge. French meaning sponge, (pr. ay-pongzh). Soft, loose fabric similar to rating in cotton, wool, silk or rayon.
Warp hard twisted with nubby or looped filling yarns. Like ratine, not always in fashion. Uses: dresses, suits. Weave
plain. Width, 48", 52". See Ratine.
ETAMINE (Fr. pr. ay-tah-meen). Smooth, wiry material similar to bunting or voile but more open. Cotton or worsted
fabric. Often fancy effects in weave and finish are introduced in etamines. Excellent for wear except as loose threads
may pull. Use: dresses. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 42".
Etofie. (Fr. pr. ay-toff). General French term for textile fabrics.
Everfast*. See Fast color fabrics.
Extract. 1. Printing. See Discharge printing. 2. Wool. Fibres recovered from cotton and wool mixtures by carbonizing
the cotton in sulphuric acid bath.
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Fabric. Cloth, goods or textile material woven or knitted of any textile fibres.
Fabric gloves. Made from warp-knit cotton fabric, lisle or sueded. Chamoisette* and Chamoisuede are trade
names, Gloves are made of single fabric or two layers fastened together by a patent process. Silk gloves are
made from warp-knit fabric in silk. Wool gloves are usually made from jersey.
Faille (Fr. pr. fy-c, English pr. file). Soft, flat-ribbed silk fabric. Ribs are wider and flatter than grosgrain.
Wears well if not too loose in weave or heavily weighted. Uses: dresses, trimmings. Weavevariation of plain.
Width, 36", 40".
Fashioned. Hose permanently shaped in the knitting process as distinguished from seamless hose. No seam is
necessary but a mock seam is often used to imitate full-fashioned. Manufacturer required to add his name or
qualifying statement to word " fashioned " so as to distinguish the product from "full-fashioned" which is more
expensive.
Fast color fabrics. Many brands of dress and drapery fabrics in cotton and linen guaranteed not to fade in
sun or washing or both. Everfast*, Pamico*, Polly Prim*, Peter Pan*, Year round*, Indian Head* and Diana
cloth* are examples of trade names for guaranteed fabrics. Weaveplain. Width, 36". Fastness of dye.
Property of dye to retain its color when cloth is exposed to sun or washing. The term fastness is a comparative
one as a dye may be extremely fast to washing and only moderately fast to light. Remarkable progress is being
made in the dyeing of fast color cottons and rayon.
Felt.
1. Process. Wool fibres tend to tangle and mat when moisture, heat and friction are applied. It is now
believed that the interlocking of the minute, epidermal scales on the fibres does not fully explain felting.*
Shrinking, the same as fulling or milling, is merely an early stage of the felting process.
2. Felt for hats is produced by steam and pressure applied to fibres. Rabbit fur is most commonly used.
Low grade felt hats are made from wool, the best felt contains beaver fur.
3. Wool felt may be woven and shrunken or made by pressing (similar to felt hats). Thickness, weight and
texture vary according to use. May be strong and compact or thin and porous; may be hard and board-like or
spongy and elastic. Uses: billiard table covers, pennants, hats, counter mats, chair pads, insoles, ink pads;
polishers for finishing furniture, automobiles and marble; parts of pianos, sewing machines, laundry
machinery,vacuum cleaners, artificiallimbs, blackboard erasers,corn plasters. Weave plain, twill or pressed
fibres. Width, 54", 72".
4. Cotton felt is not related to felt. See Table Felt or padding.
Fibre rug. Twisted paper used as yarn, woven with cotton, or cotton and wool in a Jacquard pattern.
Reversible.
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Fibre silk. See Rayon.
Filament. Single natural strand of silk. The silk worm produces two filaments which are glued together with
sericin. See degumming.
Filet. Developed from fishermen's nets. Found in early handmade lace having knotted square mesh; also in
hair nets. Filet net See Net. Matthews, J. Merritt, Textile Fibres,

Filling,
1. Same as weft or woof. Yarn for the shuttle. Each crosswise yarn is called a " pick ".
2. Refers to finishing materials on cotton, as starch, China clay, also to weighting of silk. See Weighting.
Finishing.
All the processes through which cloth is passed after leaving the loom in preparation for the market.
Fire-proof fabrics. See Asbestos, Non-flam.

Flannel. Light weight, washable, soft, woolen fabric with napped surface. It was originally made from carded
wool, but is now often made from either wool and cotton, or wool and synthetic fibre.The term "flannel" is also
often used to refer directly to the clothing created from flannelette.
1. Baby flannel. White, soft, woolen fabric in wool, or mixtures with silk or cotton. Smooth or napped
surface. Uses: infants' wear. Weaveplain or twill. Width, 25", 27", 30", 36".
2. Dress flannelwhen in vogue, many interesting colors and finishes are offered. Weavetwill. Width 27".
3. Shirting flannel. Various weights, colors and textures for different purposes. Weaveplain or twill.
Width, 27", 36", 42".
4. Viyella flannel. Trade named fabric made in England. Cotton and wool in equal amounts mixed before
spinning. Made in different widths, weights and colors. Uses: shirts, dresses, sports wear, infants' wear.
Weavetwill. Width, 31", 46".

Flannelette. Cotton fabric, napped on one side. Plain, striped or printed. See Kimono flannel.
Flaxon.
Trade name for a group of fabrics including dimity, India linon, batiste, voile, organdy. White, piece-dyed or
printed. Name Flaxon stamped on the selvage. Materials attractive, durable and launder well. Made from fine,
combed cotton yarns, gassed and more or less mercerized. Sherette*, a similar fabric. Uses: infants' wear,
blouses, lingerie, dresses. Weaveplain. Widths vary.
Flat crepe. Silk dress fabric, alike on both sides, of texture similar to crepe back satin. Heavier and richer
looking than Crepe de Chine. Widths, 40", 54".
Flat Knit. See Plain knit-Fleece. 1. Entire coat of wool as sheared from the animal. 2. Fleece wool means
clipped, not "pulled wool".
Fleeced. Means napped.
Flexible net, elastic net or J. C. cloth (Jockey Club). A closely woven millinery fabric of cotton, pliable and soft,
yet with a wiry appearance. Less stiff than duck cloth but similar weave. White or cream. Use: foundation for
soft rolled brim on hats. Weaveleno. Width, 40".
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Floats. Warp or filling yarns which lie free on the surface of the cloth. Yarns not bound or woven for some
distance, as in coarse damask.
Flock dot. Same as composition or paste dot. Dots or figures on Swiss or voile when not woven or embroidered
but applied chemically. Dots are usually permanent and washable.
F locks.
Very short wool fibres resulting from different processes in woolen and worsted manufacture. Used to increase
weight of low grade woolens. May be blown in after weaving and fulled to make a solid fabric.
Fold. 1. Same as ply in yarn. 2. Refers to layers of cloth on the bolt. Flat fold means goods rolled without
doubling. Bookfolds for narrow fabrics are folded once lengthwise and twice crosswise in such a way that they
open bookwise from the centre. Observe damask napkins.
Footing. Nets are made in narrow widths for ruffling. >"to6".
Forestry cloth. Originally made for U. S. Government Forestry Service. Used for outing shirts and suits. Kind of
flannel in "winterfield shade" or olive drab.
Fortuny print. Art fabric made in Venice. Secret printing process originated by Fortuny gives to cotton cloth
the effect of antique brocades. Historic patterns used and adapted. Rare color effects obtained. Uses: wall
hangings, screens, curtains, table covers. Weaveplain or twill. Width, 30". Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo
(1871-1949) was one of the most creative minds of his time. He mainly worked in Italy and he was renowned for
his Art Nouveau textiles that included fine-pleated silk gowns, lustrous silk and velvet scarves. He created gowns
that have become surrounded by myth: see DELPHOS model at THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM NEW YORK
Foulard (pr. foo-lar). French, meaning silk handkerchief. 1. Soft, light silk fabric. Always printed (direct or
discharge). Wears very well. Usually unweighted. Uses: dresses, kimonos, linings. Weavetwill. Width, 27", 40".
2. Soft, highly mercerized cotton fabric resembling silk foulard in texture. Plain or printed. Weavetwill. Width,
32", 36".
French foot. Hose with one seam in middle of sole. A full-fashioned hose.
French serge. See Serge.
Friar's cloth. Drapery fabric of coarse texture in basket weave. Resembles Monk's cloth and Druid's cloth.
Frieze (pr. freez). Originated in Ireland. Heavy woolen overcoating having a nap on the face. Similar to
Chinchilla cloth, but a lower grade fabric. Yam- or piece-dyed. Uses: overcoats, mackinaws. Weavedouble cloth
with twill construction. Width, 54".
Frise. From the Latin "crispare (crispus, frise)" to curl. Pile fabric (usually mohair) of uncut loops. Designs
may be produced by contrast of cut and uncut loops, by different colored yarns or by printing the surface.
Friezette* is a trade name. Use: upholstery. Weavepile. Width, 27", 28".
Fulling. See Felt.
Full-fashioned. Hose or other garments shaped in the knitting. Selvages joined in seams. Hose require a
second machine to complete the foot. Costs more, holds its shape, and fits better than seamless hose.
Fur Fabrics.
Large class of pile fabrics of spun silk or mohair which imitate fur. By dyeing and special finishes the texture of
-various furs is obtained, as Hudson seal, beaver, moleskin, astrachan, etc. Wild silk is often employed in silk
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plushes. Mohair is most commonly used. Weave pile. Width, 50". See Plush, Mohair.
ecks, plaids or stripes, or may be plain color. Washes well and usually holds dye. Thin, coarse ginghams tend to
shrink. Uses: dresses, shirts, aprons, children's clothes. Weaveplain or fancy. Width, 26" to 40". Name of
Indonesian origin, imported in Europe by Dutch, produced in Manchester (England) from the second half of the
18th century.
1. Apron checks. Coarse, stiff, checked fabric. Any color with white. Use: aprons. Width, 26", 27".
2. Chambray. Plain colored gingham, often having white filling. Width, 27", 32".
3. French. See Zephyr.
4. Nurses' or Red Cross gingham. Heavy blue and white striped, closely woven. Uses: nurses' uniforms,
house dresses. Width, 32".
5. Scotch ginghams are those made in Scotland. Fine quality, beautiful colors and plaids.
6. Tissues are thinner than ordinary ginghams. Often have heavy cord in stripe or check or embroidered
design. St. Gall tissues from Switzerland are famous for their beauty.
7. Zephyr ginghams and French ginghams used for dresses. Fine, light weight, soft finished, attractive
coloring and designs. Made in America.
The following are trade named fabrics related to ginghams. Heavier and closer than gingham. Devonshire,
Kiddie Kloth* Surf cloth, Kindergarten cloth* Romper cloth* Uses: children's clothes, dresses. Weaveplain.
Width, 32".

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Gabardine or gaberdine. Name of Jewish mantle or cloak of the Middle Ages. Modern twilled fabric. I. Soft
mercerized cotton gaberdine. Shows raised cord on right side, White and colors. Uses: suits, skirts, vestings.
Weave twill. Width, 36". 2. Firm, worsted material, same as cotton gabardine. May have smooth, hard surface
or soft dull one. Piece-dyed. Uses: dresses, suits, uniforms, riding habits. Weavetwill. Width, 54".
Galatea. Strong, firm, heavy cotton fabric. White, dyed in plain colors or printed. Durable, but usually fades.
Uses: children's play clothes, middies, skirts. Weave satin. Width, 27".It was named after the man- of-war
H.M.S. Galatea, and the fabric was at one time in demand for use in making children's sailor suits.
Gassing. Protruding fibres on cotton yarns or cloth are singed over gas flames, making a smooth surface.
Gathers: Gathering can be done, by hand, by machine, automatically, with elastic and through channels.
Gathering by hand and machine involves stitching across the edge of the fabric and pulling on the loose thread
to draw up the fabric into mini-folds. The density of the mini-folds, in combination with the stitch length
determines the fullness.
Gauge. Applies to closeness of meshes or wales which determine the fineness of a knitted fabric.
Gauze.
1. Former name for a kind of weave now called "leno" in which the warp yarns instead of lying parallel are
arranged in pairs which twist between the filling yarns making an open lacy effect as in marquisette.
2. Thin curtain fabrics in plain or leno weave often called gauze.
3. Cheese cloth of all kinds called gauze in the trade. Customers know the names, surgeon's gauze and hospital
gauze.
Georgette.
Thin, silk fabric, dull in texture with cr&py effect due to tightly twisted yarns in both warp and filling. Right and
left hand twist alternate. Woven in the gum, degummed before dyeing. Launders. Piece-dyed or printed. Uses:
blouses, gowns, trimming, millinery. Weave plain. Width, 40".
Gigging. Operation of raising nap on woolens.
textile encyclopedia: fashion, filet, flannel, flat crepe,fortuny print, gabard... http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-g.html
1 of 3 10/27/2010 1:38 PM
GINGHAM. Yarn-dyed fabric woven in checks, plaids or stripes, or may be plain color. Washes well and
usually holds dye. Thin, coarse ginghams tend to shrink. Uses: dresses, shirts, aprons, children's clothes.
Weaveplain or fancy. Width, 26" to 40". Name of Indonesian origin, imported in Europe by Dutch, produced
in Manchester (England) from the second half of the 18th century.
1. Apron checks. Coarse, stiff, checked fabric. Any color with white. Use: aprons. Width, 26", 27".
2. Chambray. Plain colored gingham, often having white filling. Width, 27", 32".
3. French. See Zephyr.
4. Nurses' or Red Cross gingham. Heavy blue and white striped, closely woven. Uses: nurses' uniforms, house
dresses. Width, 32".
5. Scotch ginghams are those made in Scotland. Fine quality, beautiful colors and plaids.
6. Tissues are thinner than ordinary ginghams. Often have heavy cord in stripe or check or embroidered
design. St. Gall tissues from Switzerland are famous for their beauty.
7. Zephyr ginghams and French ginghams used for dresses. Fine, light weight, soft finished, attractive
coloring and designs. Made in America.
The following are trade named fabrics related to ginghams. Heavier and closer than gingham. Devonshire, Kiddie
Kloth* Surf cloth, Kindergarten cloth* Romper cloth* Uses: children's clothes, dresses. Weaveplain. Width,
32".

Glad (Fr. pr. glah-say). Glistening, smooth, resembling ice. Applies to some two-toned silks. Warp and filling of
different colors. Also applies to a special finish.
Glass toweling. Plain, smooth fabric having stripes or checks of blue or red on a white ground. Linen glass
toweling does not become linty. Name indicates purpose, wiping glassware. Used for all dishes. A loose weave
allows greater absorption, but does not wear so well. Colored stripes, mercerized cotton, should be fast to
washing. May be all linen, union, or cotton. Weaveplain. Width, 15", 16", 17", 18".
Glazed chintz. Both chintz and plain color fabrics are treated with paraffin and calendered. Used for curtains,
lampshades, slip covers and upholstery. Better qualities may be washed like oilcloth
.
Gloria. Originally an umbrella fabric having silk warp and worsted filling. Cotton weft fabric of same type
called gloria.
Glossing. Stretching and moistening silk yarns to impart lustre.
Glove silk. Knit fabric originally used for gloves; now for undergarments, gloves and cut hose. See Milanese,
Tricot, Warp knit, and Italian silk.*
Gobelins. Royal tapestry works in Paris. Machine woven tapestry sometimes incorrectly called Gobelin.
Golf cloth. Fine woolen material well milled and finished smooth. In plain colors, preferably red or green. Used
for sports wear.
Granite Cloth. Hard finished, pebbly cloth. Its roughness suggests the surface of granite. Worsted yarns.
Piece-dyed. Excellent for hard wear. See Mummy cloth. Use: dresses. Weavefancy. Width, 42", 50", 54".
Grass bleaching. Exposing cloth to air, light and moisture by spreading on grass. Slower than chemical
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bleaching but does not weaken fabric. Method used extensively in Ireland and Scotland. Called "grassing" or
"crofting".
Grass cloth. See Canton linen.
Grass rug. There are many rugs on the market woven of native grass and cotton warp. Crex is a well known
trade name. Plain natural color or printed. By the yard or in standard size rugs.
Grenadine. Related to marquisette. Both made with leno (gauze) weave. Sometimes two warp yarns are twisted
about one filling yarn or two warp yarns are twisted between two filling yarns also twisted about each other,
1. Usually silk or wool for dress goods.
2. Cotton curtain fabric of leno construction with swivel dots or figures in white or color. Resembles curtain
madras.
Gros de Londres (Fr. pr. gro-de-londr). Cross-ribbed dress silk with heavy and fine ribs alternating or ribs of
different colors. Texture resembles taffeta. Use: dresses. Weave plain. Width, 40".
Grosgrain (pr. gro-gran, French, coarse grain). Firm, stiff, closely woven, corded fabric. Ribs vary from 50 to
70 per inch. Filling may be of cotton, but usually weighted silk. Cords are heavier and closer than those in poplin,
more round than those in faille. Wears well if not too heavily weighted. Uses: dresses, ribbons, coats.
Weaveplain (corded). Width, 27", 36".
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Habutae or habutai (pr. ha-bu-ti). Japanese meaning "soft as down". Light-weight Japanese silk
originally woven, on hand looms, of silk in the gum, afterward boiled off.
Similar to China silk, but heavier and more durable. Sold by momme weight. White or dyed. Washes and
wears well. Uses: undergarments, blouses, shirts, draperies, lamp shades. Weaveplain. Width, 27", 30",
36". Hair cloth. Stiff, wiry fabric made of cotton, worsted or linen warp (usually cotton) and filling of
horsehair. Fabric as wide as the length of a hair (horse's mane). One pick of the filling formed by a single
hair. Black, white or gray. Uses: stiffening interlining, upholstering. Weaveplain or twill (herringbone).
Width, 15", 18", 30".
Hair line stripe. Men's or women's suiting in black or dark blue with stripe of a single white warp yarn.
Half-linen:Cotton warp and linen weft: resistance, delicacy and wonderful handle.
HAMMOCK CRASH: This cloth, as the name implies, is used in the making of hammocks. It is ma.de strong and
durable to stand the strain and wear that it is subjected to and can be woven on almost any or dinary loom
Handkerchief linen. Linen lawn used for women's handkerchiefs. Also for lingerie, infants' wear and
neckwear. White, colored and barred.
Hardanger cloth. Soft, mercerized cotton cloth of basket weave similar in appearance to Oxford suiting.
Used for Norwegian needlework called Hardanger embroidery. White and ecru. Weavebasket. Width, 40".
Harness. Warp, treadles and tie-up of treadles on loom.
Hatter's plush. Silk plush with long, scanty pile which is pressed flat or panned. Uses: millinery. Width,
21", 40".
Heddle. Device on a loom which controls the opening of space between warp yarns to receive the filling.
Heatherbloom. Trade named fabric similar to percaline. Name stamped on selvage. Found now only in ready
to wear garments.
Heather mixture. Any combination of colored wool fibres blended in yarns for knit goods and tweeds.
Originally suggested color of heather field in Scotland.
Hemp.
textile dictionary :habutai, homespun, japanese silk, indian linon, java canvas http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-HIJ K.html
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Fibres obtained from stalk of hemp plant used chiefly in ropes and cordage.
Henrietta. Named in honor of Henrietta Marie, French Queen of England in 1624, wife of Charles I. Light-
weight dress fabric similar to cashmere. Originally made with silk warp mostly in black. It differs from
cashmere only in fineness and finish, being more lustrous. Uses: same as cashmere. Weave'twill. Width,
36", 42", 44".
Herringbone twill. Zigzag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill. Resembles the backbone of a
herring.

Hickory shirting. Heavy twilled striped cotton shirting. Resembles ticking, lighter weight, softer feel. Similar
to cottonade which is used for trousering. Yarn-dyed. Blue, or brown and white. Weavetwill. Width, 28".
Holland Shade cloth. Plain woven linen, finished with a sizing of oil and starch which renders it opaque.
Most shade cloth now made of fine cotton and finished to look like linen. Uses: window shades, lamp shades.
Homespun. Loose, rough woolen fabric of coarse wool fibres. Formerly made on hand looms at home from
hand spun yarns. Now imitated by machine. Revived from time to time. Fabric resembles a tweed in general
character. Uses: sports clothing and men's suits. Weaveplain or twill. Width, 54".
Honeycomb. Name of weave used in toweling and occasionally for cotton or wool suiting. Marked ridges
and hollows suggest surface of a honeycomb. Desirable in toweling because it exposes more surface for
absorption than a plain weave. One variety of this weave, called " wafilecloth "
.
Hospital Gauze. See Cheesecloth.
Huck or Huckaback. Word derived from huckster and back, The huckster in England was a man who carried
his wares on his back. Toweling of linen, cotton or union having a small design, recognized as huck. Often woven
in towel lengths with border on either end. Colored designs or name of hotel or firm may be woven in. Half
bleached or white. Wears well and is very absorbent. Weavefigure. Width, 15", 16", 18", 20", 22", 24".
Hygroscopic or moisture-retaining property. Common to silk and wool. Wool retains the greatest percentage
of moisture without appearing to be wet. This accounts for the added weight in overcoats worn in damp
weather, Hence the need for the cravenette process.
Illusion. Term used for tulle or maline. Refers to very thin, transparent, silk net. See Tulle and Maline.
Indian Head.*
Trade marked cotton fabric, first made heavy and coarse like Butcher's linen. Modern permanent finish
makes a smoother, lighter weight cloth suited to a variety of purposes. Name stamped on selvage.
Unbleached, white and colored. Latter has guaranteed dye. Similar materials in white bear other
tradenames. Uses: uniforms, aprons, napkins, tablecloths, towels, shirts, bibs, children's play clothes,
middies, and many household uses, colors for suiting and curtains. Weaveplain. Width, white, 36", 54",
63"; colors, 36".
India linon. French for lawn. Fine, closely woven, white cotton fabric; fairly crisp finish. Launders well.
Uses: waists, dresses, lingerie, linings. Weaveplain. Width, 27", 32", 36", 45"-
Ingrain. 1. See dyeing. 2, Kind of carpet, seldom seen now, woven flat, Jacquard design, reversible. Cotton
and wool or all wool.
In the grease. Wool as it leaves the sheep's back before scouring.
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In the gray. Unbleached or undyed cotton or linen cloth.
In the gum. Silk in its raw or natural state, before degum-ming. It contains sericin or silk gum which
makes it stiff and dull.
Italian silk.* Trade name for warp knit fabric used in gloves, and undergarments.
Jacquard (Fr. pr. zha-kar, English pr. jak-ard). 1. Damasks, tapestries, brocades and all cloths with
elaborate figures require the Jacquard loom. The most complicated picture may be reproduced in Jacquard
weaving. 2. Knit fabrics with novelty pattern in stitch or colors, as fancy golf hose.
Japanese crepe. See Crepe.
Japanese silk. See Habuta?.
Java Canvas. See Ada Canvas.
Jean. Heavy, twilled cotton fabric like drilling only a little finer and bleached; also called middy twill.
White, plain colors or stripes. Duretta*, a trade name for Jean. Uses: heavy grades, suitings and corsets;
lighter grades, linings, underwear, children's clothes. Weavetwill. Width, 36".

Jersey. I. Plain knitting, not ribbed. 2. Jersey cloth usually wool. May be silk, cotton or rayon. Cotton Jersey
is called stockinette. Wool Jersey may be smooth or napped; light weight fabric tends to stretch and sag.
Uses: dresses, coats, suits. Knitted in tubular form any width. 3. Jersey silk. See Milanese.
Jusi (pr. hoo-see). Delicate fabric for dresses made in the Philippine Islands either from pure silk (in the
gum) or silk with abaca or pineapple fibre. The yarns (of vegetable fibres) are tied end to end instead of
being spun.
Jute. Coarse, brown fibre obtained from the stalk of a plant in India. Used in burlap, cordage and the
backing for low grade rugs and carpets.
Kapock Trade name for fast color drapery fabrics.
Kapok. Soft, light fibres from seed pod of a tree in East and West Indies. Called "silk floss". Uses: mattresses,
pillows, life preservers.
Kasha*. Type of flannel dress goods introduced by Rodier Freres, Paris, who claim exclusive right to name.
Similar cloths, bearing various trade names, made by American manufacturers. Weavetwill. Width, 54".
Kemp. Dead or diseased wool fibres which do not take the dye are called "kempy wool".
Kersey. Thick woolen cloth similar to melton but finished differently. May contain cotton warp with wool filling
or have cotton mixed with wool in yarn. Felted, napped and polished. Much like a heavy broadcloth, shorter
nap. Uses: uniforms, overcoats. Weavetwill. Width, 54".
Khaki (pr. kah-ky). I. East Indian word meaning earth color. O. D. or olive drab color used for U. S. army
uniforms. 2. Cotton twill uniform cloth in khaki color. Uses: scout uniforms, outing suits, work clothes,
children's play clothes. Weavetwill. Width, 28".
Khaki Kool.* Trade name for a sports silk of rough, crepy texture.
Kiddie Kloth* See Gingham.
Kidderminster. An ingrain carpet first made at Kidderminster, England.
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Kimono Crepe. See Crepe.
Kimono flannel. Soft, napped cotton fabric usually printed,
nap on one side only. Also called flannelette. Uses:
kimonos and dressing sacques. Weaveplain.
Kimono silk. Light-weight printed spun silk. Uses: kimonos,
linings, curtains. Weaveplain or satin. Width, 32". Kindergarten cloth.* See Gingham. Klearflax* Trade
name for rugs made entirely of linen fibres,
American product. Knit. Not woven of warp and filling but produced by interlacing of loops. Kobe flannel.
Japanese challis. See Challis. Ladies cloth. Obsolete. Light ..eight broadcloth or flannel with nap.
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L aine . French for wool.
La Jerz.* Trade name for soft, wash silk fabric resembling knit goods. Uses: lingerie, shirts, blouses. Weave
fancy.
Width, 36". Lampas. Drapery fabric similar to brocade. Originally an East Indian printed silk. Jacquard
weave with rep ground having satin-like figures formed by warp yarns and contrasting figures of the weft yarns.
Lansdowne. Trade name for silk and wool dress fabric.
Lanasatoscopio. Instrument, made in Italy, for identifying animal and vegetable fibres in cloth, by electrical
contact.
Lappet. Kind of weaving by which designs are embroidered on a fabric. Latch needle. Type of needle most
umversally used on knitting machines.
LAWN. Name from Laon, France, where it originally was made of linen. Light, thin, cotton material, usually
sized and highly polished. May have soft or stiff finish. Coarse grade called "lining lawn". White, dyed or
printed.
Uses: dresses, waists, curtains, linings. Weaveplain. Width, 24", 27", 36", 45". See India linon.
Leno. Weave, incorrectly called Gauze, in which warp yarns are arranged in pairs twisting around one another
between picks of filling yarn, as in marquisette.
Liberty. Name given by Liberty, London and Paris to their products. Exclusive designs originally in silk, noted
for beauty of color and texture
textile encyclopedia:Laine, la jerz, lappet, leno, liberty, linen, linters, llama http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-l.html
1 of 3 10/27/2010 1:39 PM
Line. Long flax fibres as distinguished from the short ones called "tow".
Linen cambric. See Cambric.
Linen canvas. See Canvas.
Linen Mesh. Open mesh knit fabric used for infants' shirts and men's underwear. Mixtures of linen and cotton
often used. Advantages are ventilation, cleanliness, absorbency and strength. Width, 30", 54".
Linenized. See Basco.
Linen finish suitings. Large class of fabrics many of which bear trade names. Mercerized cotton yarns and
calendering processes are used to give linen-like finish. These fabrics vary in weight and finish. Usually launder
and wear well. Uses: skirts, uniforms, middies, aprons. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 45". Some of the trade names
areLinno Cloth* Indian Head*, Linette*.
Linette, See Linen finish suitings.
Lingette. Registered trade name for soft, mercerized sateen of beautiful texture. Woven in stripes of self color by
using yarns of right and left hand twist for warp. Uses: linings, pajamas, bloomers, slips. Weavesatin. Width,
36". Buty Chine* is another trade named fabric, of similar construction.
Linno cloth . See Linen finish suitings.
Lingerie fabrics (pr. lan-zh-rc). Originally linen undergarments for women. Many textures in cotton used for
underwear. Also silk or rayon. May be plain or satin weave, white or tinted, mercerized or unmercerized cotton.
Linters. Short cotton fibres which adhere to the seed after the first ginning. Useful for upholstering or
manufacture of rayon; sometimes in low grade fabrics.
Lisle. Originally a fine, hard linen thread made in Lisle, France. Now a fine, smooth cotton yarn, two-ply, for
knitting purposes made from long staple cotton, tightly spun and gassed. Used in lisle gloves, hosiery and
underwear.
Lissue.* Trade name for fine mercerized cotton handkerchiefs made in England. Colored borders are
guaranteed.
List. Old term meaning selvage.
Llama. Smooth, long, brown hair from South American animal, the llama, similar to a goat.
Loading. See Weighting.
Longcloth. Light-weight, unfinished, bleached muslin, free from starch or sizing. Easy to sew and launders well.
Uses: underwear and linings. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 45". Usually 36".
Long staple. See STAPLE.
Louisine. Light-weight, silk fabric resembling taffeta except for variation in plain weave. No longer on the
market.
Lustering. Finishing process which produces a lustre on yarns or cloth by heat and pressure.
Lustrine. An extremely smooth cotton lining fabric. It resembles upholstery haircloth. Yarns treated with lead
solution and polished with heat and pressure, giving them a peculiar smoothness. Use: sleeve linings for men's
overcoats. Weavesatin. Width, 40", 42".
2 of 3 10/27/2010 1:39 PM
Lustron. Trade name for a brand of rayon fibre made by the acetate process. See RAYON

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Mackinaw. Heavy woolen fabric, napped. Two sides may differ in color and design. Usually contains
large percentage of reclaimed wool. May have cotton warp or cotton mixed in yarns. Stock-dyed. Usually
plaids or dark colors. May be cravenetted. Very durable. Uses: lumberman's jackets, overcoats.
Weavetwill or double construction. Width, 54", 56".
Maco. See Egyptian cotton.
MADRAS . First made in Madras, India for sailors' headdresses. I. Soft, cotton fabric for shirts. May be
white, yarn-dyed or printed. Usually mercerized. May contain rayon. Many fancy effects in weaving as
corded stripe or small figure. Uses: shirts, blouses, pajamas. Weaveplain or fancy. Width, 27", 32". 2.
Thin drapery fabric of cotton or rayon woven with figures on a leno foundation. Long floats between figures
are sheared away. Shaggy effect produced by ends of floating yarn
Madras (shirting) Typical corded effect. Many variations

Madras (curtain) Note shaggy effect where float yarns are cut colored figures. Use: curtains.
Weaveleno with Jacquard pattern. Width, 36", 50".
Maline (pr. mah-leen). Origmally spelled malines. Similar to bobbinet net only thinner and very stiff.
Made of silk. Some of it is treated chemically to withstand moisture. Unless so treated it becomes gummy
when wet due to stiffening used. White and colors. Uses: veils, millinery, dress trimming. Weavenet.
Width, 24", 27".

Marquisette Leno or gauze construction
Manila hemp. Fibrous strips from long fleshy leaves of plant. Used in cordage and for millinery braid
called Tagal.
Marquisette. Open loose fabric of leno construction. Often incorrectly applied to scrim and voile which
have plain weave. Marquisettes may be woven from cotton usually mercerized, silk, rayon, wool. White,
piece-dyed and printed. Use: curtains. Weaveleno. Width, 36", 50".
MARSEILLES .
Originally made in Marseilles, France. Heavy, double-faced white cotton cloth with a raised woven
pattern. Formerly used for men's vests, dresses, etc. Now seen only in bed spreads. Matelasse (pr.
mat-las-say). French, meaning to cushion or pad, hence a quilted surface produced on the loom. A figured
or brocaded cloth having a raised pattern as if quilted or wadded. Mechanical fabrics. Manufactured for
use as an intermediate product in the making of some mechanically constructed article, as rubber belt,
duck, tire cord fabric, hose duck. Melton. Named for Melton, England. Thick, smooth woolen fabric,
heavier than broadcloth or Kersey. Resembles felt. May contain cotton warp and woolen yarns. Much
felted, napped, shorn close, and dull finished. Like kersey except in finish, very strong fabric, often
cravenetted; piece-dyed. Uses: uniforms, overcoats. Weavetwill. Width, 54". 60".
madras, maline, manila hemp, marquisette,marseilles, merino, messaline,... http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-m.html
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Mercerizing. Chemical process which renders cotton permanently more lustrous, stronger and more
susceptible to dye. Named for its originator, John Mercer, an English calico printer. Cotton, yarn or cloth,
held in a state of tension to prevent shrinking and treated with caustic soda.
Mercerized dyed fabrics. Two-toned effects produced by weaving mercerized cotton yarns of one color
with warp of another color. Often called "sunfast" or "sunproof" because they have been advertised as
"fadeproof". Use: hangings. Weaveplain or leno. Width, 50". Some of the trade names are as follows:
Sunfast, Stafford, Diana* Orinoka*. Many of these fabrics carry a guarantee from the manufacturer.
Mercerized lisle. Lisle yarns when mercerized are smooth and lustrous. It is incorrect to say "silk lisle".
Merino. I. Name of a breed of sheep. 2. Name of a fabric, no longer made. 3. In knit goods, term may
refer only to all wool. Ruling of Federal Trade Commission.
Merveilieux (pr. mer-vay-lew). Lining fabric used principally in men's coats and overcoats. All silk, or
silk and cotton. Weavetwill. Width, 32", 36".
Mesh fabric. Knit garments of open honeycomb effect usually made for men. See Linen mesh.
Messaline. Named after Messalina, wife of the Roman Emperor Claudius. Light-weight satin, yarn-or
piece-dyed. Wears well if pure silk yarns arc used and if relation of warp to filling is suitable. Uses:
dresses, blouses, trimmings. Weavesatin. Width, 36".
Metal cloth. Decorative fabric used for trimmings and millinery. Made of cotton warp and metal filling
yarns. These yarns are produced by winding a strip of tinsel around a cotton yarn. All colors and figured
effects, woven and printed. When metal cloth becomes creased or wrinkled the creases can not be
removed. Weaveplain or satin. Width, 24", 36". Metalline. An imitation of metal cloth. Warp of silk in
gum and filling yarns of slightly twisted rayon which reflects light as if they were metallic. White and
colors. Weave plain. Width, 36". Middy twill. White twilled fabric of cotton or mercerized cotton,
similar to drilling or jean. Softer, than denim, wears and launders well. See Duretta* Uses: middies,
children's clothes. Weavetwill. Width, 36".
Milanese (pr. mil-an-ees). Knitted fabric so constructed that it does not ravel easily. Made on a warp
knitting frame (called a Milanese loom). Most cotton fabric gloves made of warp knit goods. Silk fabric
known as glove silk, tricot, jersey silk. See Italian silk* Uses: underwear, gloves, hosiery. Width, 32" or
14 feet wide. Mill ends. Remnants or short lengths from the mill.
Milled. Same as fulled or felted.
Mirror velvet. See velvet.
Mock seam. Hose knitted in tubular form but seamed up the back to imitate full-fashioned garment.
Fashion marks are often added at the back to make resemblance greater.
Mohair. 1. Hair of the Angora goat, long and silky; when manufactured, called mohair. 2. Fabric,
practically the same as brilliantine. Also called alpaca. 3. Pile fabric with back of cotton or wool and pile of
mohair. Cut and uncut loops. See Frise. Two-toned effects due to pile of one color, back of another.
Embossed effect by different depths of pile or pressing. Printed patterns.
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Moire or watered silk silient of all pile fabrics. Uses: upholstery, Teddy bears. Weavepile. Width, 27",
50", 54". Braids, fringes and tassels often made of mohair.
Moire (pr. mwar-ay). French meaning watered. Finish on silk or cotton cloth. Engraved rollers, heat and
pressure applied to corded silk or taffeta flatten the surface at intervals, leaving the original roundness in
other places. Moire' antique was originally produced by folding the cloth lengthwise, face in and pressing
with moisture and heat. This gave a natural watered effect in a design which repeated on either side of the
centre. Now, engraved rollers imitate the pattern by a quicker process. Moire finish is not permanent.
Steaming or wetting will destroy the pattern. Uses: coats, suits, trimmings. Width, 22", 40".
Moleskin. Heavy cotton, napped fabric used for foundation for some artificial leather and for lined sports
coats,
Momme. Japanese unit of weight. Quality of pongee and habutse is estimated on this basis. Twelve
momme represents average pongee. Above fourteen is extra heavy.
Monk's cloth. Rough canvas-like drapery material, made of heavy cotton yarns often containing some
flax, jute, hemp. Wears well. Uses: hangings, couch covers, upholstering. Weavebasket. 2 by 2, Friar's 4
by 4. Druid's is coarser, 6 or 8 yarns in each square. Width, 50".
Moquette. Originally a French hand loom pile carpet. Modem power loom Moquette has deep pile.
Resembles Axminster.
Mordant. Certain chemicals, example, copper sulphate, which cause dyes to be fixed with fibres
otherwise unresponsive to those dyes.
Mosquito netting or mosquito bar. Coarse cotton net, heavily sized, plain or barred. Uses: canopies for
beds or baby carriages, particularly in the South; also to screen windows. Described by number of mesh to
the inchas twelve or fourteen, the larger number being desirable. White, green, black. Weaveleno.
Width, 36", 63", 72".
Mourning crepe. See Crepe.
Mouseline de Soie (pr. moo-sa-leen-de-swa). Means silk muslin. Firmer than chiffon. Stiffer than silk
voile. Not much used in recent years. Now largely replaced by organdie. White and colors. Weaveplain.
Width, 40", 48".
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Nainsook. Fine, soft-finished white cotton fabric with a polish on one side. Lighter in weight than
longcloth, more highly finished; not so closely woven as cambric but heavier than batiste. Sometimes
mercerized and schreinerized. A fine nainsook may be called a coarse batiste. Uses: infants' wear, lingerie.
Weaveplain. Width, 36", 45", usually 36".
Nap. Not to be confused with pile. The downy or fuzzy appearance of cloth produced by raising the fibres
to the surface as in outing flannel.
Napery. General term for table linen.

Net. Originally all nets and laces were made with a needle or with bobbins. Modern nets have the same
effect made by machinery.

1. Blonde. Washable cotton net for curtains, linings
and ruffles. Same construction as bobbinet net, but
usually finer. White, ecru or flesh.
2. Bobbinet net is machine-made of cotton or silk yarns
partially twisting around each other so as to produce
hexagonal meshes. They appear round at a distance.
Finer grades of bobbinet used for dresses and trimmings. Uses: curtains, linings, trimmings.
White or colors. Width, 36", 54", 72".
3. Cable net has a coarse mesh. Not so satisfactory for curtains as bobbinet because it
stretches when laundered. Not much used at present.
4. Filet net has square spaces and imitates hand-made filet made by knotting the thread at
the corners.

5. Novelty nets for curtains show a variety of effects.
Weavenovelty net or lace. Width, 36", 40", 45",
72".
6. Net, silk for evening gowns. May be soft or finished with a dressing. White, black and all
colors. Uses: evening gowns, trimmings. Weavenet. Width, 72",
7. Point d' Esprit white cotton net with small dots scattered over the surface in snowflake
effect. Width, narrow as footing or 72".
Nainsook,Net,Noils,Oilcloth, Osford suiting http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-no.html
1 of 3 10/27/2010 1:41 PM
Nitro-cellulose. See Rayon.
Noils. Short fibres which come from the combing process in preparing yarns as for worsted. Short wool
fibres are wool noils. There are silk noils, ramie noils, cotton noils.
Non-Flam. Process for making cotton goods non-inflammable, invented by William H. Perkin,
Manchester, England. Non-Flam not on the American market.
Non-run or non-ravel top. Some hose made with device near top to prevent runners from going into leg of
hose.
Nottingham. Type of machine-made lace or lace curtains. Originally made in Nottingham, England.
Novelty fabrics. Large class of materials particularly suitings, made to meet a style demand. They have
not become staple.
Nub yarn. Fancy yarn having nubs or knots at intervals made by twisting one yarn about another forming
lumps or knotty places, as ratine yarns.
Nun's veiling. Originally made in black only and used for nuns' veils. Soft, light-weight fabric similar to
voile, but closer and softer. Worsted yarns, also made in silk. Piece-dyed. Wears well. Uses: dresses,
negligees.
Olive drab. Called O. D. official color for U. S. army uniforms; same as Khaki.
Oilcloth. Cotton fabric coated with a preparation of linseed oils and pigments. 1. Floor oilcloth made on a
burlap base, treated with linseed oil, ochre and other pigments. Printed, varnished. 2. Table oilcloth has a
foundation of muslin treated with oil, turpentine and amber. May be printed. Soft pliable oilcloth gives
better wear than a stiff brittle one. Smooth, dull or pebbled finish. Plain or napped back. White, black,
green or printed. Uses: table and shelf coverings, rain hats, dress trimming. Weaveplain. Width, 45",
54".
Oiled silk. Thin silk soaked in boiled linseed oil and dried. Waterproof and fairly pliable. Surgical uses.
Opera hose. Women's hose of extra length.
Organdy or organdie. Thin, transparent, wiry muslin made of fine cotton yarns. White, piece-dyed or
printed. The best grades are finished to retain their crispness and transparency after washing. Crushes or
musses but is easily pressed. Uses: dresses, neckwear, trimmings. Orinoka* Trade name for drapery
fabrics. See Sunfast
materials.

Osnaburg, Originally from Germany. Strong unbleached cotton bagging similar to heavy muslin. Kind of
crash used for cement bags and for sacks in cotton fields, also for coarse clothing. Weaveplain. Width,
32".
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Ottoman. Heavy corded silk fabric having larger and rounder ribs than faille. Ribs or filling usually
cotton which is completely covered by warp. Yarn-dyed. Uses: coats, trimmings. Weaveplain. Width, 36",
40".
Outing flannel. Soft, light-weight cotton fabric napped on both sides, highly inflammable, soils readily,
nap wears and washes off. White, solid colors and striped (yarn-dyed). Daisy Cloth* is a trade name for a
kind of twilled outing flannel. Uses: sleeping garments, children's underwear, interlinings. Weaveplain or
twill. Width, 27", 32", 36".
Oxford Gray. Any fabric, woven or knitted, of black and white mixed yarns.
Oxford suiting or shirting. A variety of coarse weaves, mostly basket, in mercerized cotton; true Oxford
has basket weave. Heavy grade suitable for suits and skirts, lighter weight for shirts. White, colors or stripes.
Weave-basket or twill, Width, 32", 36".

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Paisley. Designs, printed or woven, which imitate patterns in Paisley shawls.
Persia is credited as being the first country known to have created boteh designs that have since come to be
known as paisley motifs. Boteh is an anglicized version of the Hindi word, buta, which means flower.
These stylistic shapes were incorporated onto the surface of fabrics that originated during the Safavid
Dynasty of Persia (1501-1736). Later, the design was quite popular with Iranian weavers during the Qajar
Dynasty (1795-1925). Paisleys made a comeback in the 1960s, and most especially, in the 1990s when they
were utilized in wallpaper, ties, and other wearing apparel. In earlier times, Kashmiri (paisley) shawls were
given as part of a dowry, or for a ceremonial occasion.
Pajama cloth. Barred dimity or nainsook used for pajamas and athletic underwear for men, women and
children.
Palm Beach.* Trade named fabric first used at Palm Beach resorts for men's suits. Light weight, cool
and durable; cotton warp with mohair filling; yarn-dyed, often striped, white, light or dark color; launders.
Uses: men's and women's summer outing suits. Weaveplain, twill or fancy. Width, 36", 56".
Panama. Smooth, firm worsted similar to nun's veiling only closer and heavier; worsted yarns hard
twisted; piece-dyed; very durable. Uses: dresses, skirts, suits. Weave plain. Width, 48", 54".
Panama cloth, (millinery fabric). Closely woven fabric of cotton similar to flexible net, wiry and elastic.
Color, usually deep cream, Uses: brims and crowns of hats, Weave basket. Width, 40". See Flexible net.
Panne. (Fr. pr. pan). Light-weight velvet with "laid" or flattened pile.
Paper cambric. See Cambric (lining).
Paper fabrics. Materials made entirely or in part from twisted paper. Germany and Japan make paper
fabrics.
Peau de Cygne. Obsolete silk fabric.
Peau de Soie . French, skin of silk. Strong, firm, leather-like fabric with dull satiny surface. Woven like
grosgrain but with the rib so fine that it produces smooth twill face. Wears well. Uses: drosses, coats,
trimmings, facings for men's dress coats. Weavetwill. Width, 21", 36".
Penelope canvas. See cross stitch canvas.
Pepper and Salt. Mixed color effect in woolen and worsted produced with black and white dyes, one or
textile paisley,palmbeach, panama cloth, percale, penelope canvass, pong... http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-pq.html
1 of 4 10/27/2010 2:09 PM
more ply of white is twisted with one or more of black.
Percale. Closely woven, printed cotton fabric, stiff finish, heavier, finer and wider than calico. Service
depends on yarn count. Typical counts, 64x60, 72x76, 80x80 in the gray. Count differs after finishing
processes. Printed either by direct or discharge method. May be all white. Uses: women's and children's
dresses, men's shirts, boys' blouses, aprons. Weaveplain. Width, 36".
Percaline. Fine, thin piece-dyed cotton lining material, sized and highly calendered or moired. White or
colored. Use: linings. Weaveplain. Width, 36".
Persian lawn. Fine, white, sheer, cotton fabric similar to India linon only thinner, finer, and with a high
polish. Stiffer and firmer than batiste. Not so sheer as organdy. Practically off the market. Uses: waists,
neckwear, dresses. Weaverplain. Width, 32".
Pick. A filling or weft yarn or one throw of the shuttle across the warp.
Pick glass. Small, folding, magnifying glass used for making yarn count. Also called cloth glass and linen
glass or tester. (See page 129.).
Picot (pr. pee-co). French for splinter of wood. A small loop on the edge of ribbon or a purl on lace. A picot
edge may also be produced by a hemstitching machine.
Piece-dyed. Cloth dyed after weaving.
Pile. Fabric having a surface made of upright ends as in fur. Pile may be made of extra warp yarns as in
velvets and plushes or of extra filling yarns as in velveteens and corduroys. Pile may be uncut as Brussels
carpet. Warp pile may cause loops on both sides as in terry (Turkish toweling). Cf. Nap.
Pilot cloth. Heavy wool coating having a kersey finish. As the name implies, used for coats for sea-faring
men. Weave-twill. Width, 56".
Pima cotton (pr. pee-ma). Grown in southern California and Arizona from Egyptian seed. Long staple
fibre, lighter in color than Egyptian.
Pina cloth (pr. pee-nya). Thin and transparent fabric made from pineapple fibre in Philippine Islands.
Pique. Stout cotton fabric usually in white with raised cords or welts running lengthwise. Originally cords
were from selvage to selvage. See Bedford cord. Fancy mercerized stripes in figures may be introduced.
Durability depends upon closeness of weave. Easily laundered; gives a tailored effect. Uses: infants' coats,
carriage robes for summer, cravats, trimmings, skirts, dresses. Weavefancy. Width, 27", 36".
Plain knit or flat knit. Simplest knit structure as in hose. Distinguished from rib knitting, warp knitting
and fancy stitches.
Plain weave. The simplest of the fundamental weaves. Each filling yarr, passes alternately under and
over each warp yarn. Examples: muslin, taffeta, voile. Same as tabby.
Plated. Knit goods having face of one kind of yarn as worsted and back of another, usually lower priced, as
cotton. The principle is similar to plated silver ware. The more expensive material appears on the surface.
Pleats:
Flat pleats: parallel folds lifted from the surface of the fabric and laid down to the side
Projecting pleats: fold lifted from the surface and arranged so that they stand out from the fabric itself.
Acoordion pleats: made by folding alternately in and out creating projecting pleats. (the kind used for
smocking)
Wrinkled pleats: irregular ridges made by securing damp, bunched fabric and leaving it to dry.
Plisse (pr. plee-say). French for plaited. Puckered or crinkled effect given to fine cotton goods in the
finishing process. See Plisse crepe.
Plush. Cut or uncut pile fabric having a pile of greater depth than
Poiret twill (pr. pwa-ray). Fine, worsted dress fabric named
for the well known French dress designer, Paul Poiret.
Fabric is similar to gabardine only finer and smoother;
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beautiful texture. Soon wears shiny. Uses: dresses, suits.
Weavetwill. Width, 54".
Polka dot. Round printed, woven or embroidered dots of any
size forming a surface pattern.
Polo cloth.* Trade named fabric of camel's hair in natural
color or dyed; napped imitations of polo cloth* sold by
other names. Uses: sports wear for men and women.
Pompadour. Dainty floral pattern, printed or woven. Usually
in silk. Named for Madame Pompadour.
Pongee. Corruption of two Chinese words which signify
"native color'' because applied to silks which were not supposed to take the dye easily.
I. Fabric made of wild silk in the natural, tan color. Originated in China. Now made mostly in Shantung
province on hand looms. Name Shantung applied loosely to a grade of pongee and to machine made cotton
and silk combination and cotton imitations of pongee. Chinese pongee usually has rough yarns making an
interesting texture. The practice of finishing with rice powder, which gives a dull effect, has been carried to
excess resulting in adulteration of the silk; this fault of Chinese pongee has made it less salable than the1
Japanese product. Tussah, a Hindu word for a species of worm native to India, also refers to a variety of
silk worms in China. Term is used loosely as a fabric name for a grade of pongee.
Japanese pongee is rapidly replacing Chinese pongee in this country because of its standard quality and
freedom from rice powder finish. The grade is indicated by momme weight. Bolts are 5 yards in length.
Pongee is washable but loses much of its beauty after repeated washing which brings out a lustre. It should
be dry when ironed to prevent stiffness which is not natural to the fabric. Pongee may be dyed certain
colors but will fade in the sun. Name incorrectly applied to many and varied materials. Uses: curtains,
shirts, bloomers, slips, linings, dresses, art needlework and hand dyeing. Weave-plain. Width, 27", 32".
2. Cotton pongee imitates genuine pongee, made of wild silk. The fabric may be all cotton or have spun silk
or rayon filling. It may have a smooth texture or rough, uneven yarns when it is usually called Shantung.
May be highly mercerized. See Soiesette. Uses: same as above.
Poplin. Named from "papeline" a 15th century fabric woven
at Avignon, France, in compliment to the reigning pope.
Originally made in silk for church vestments and hangings.
1. Pine, cotton ribbed fabric, usually mercerized. Launders and wears well unless weave is loose which
causes "slipping" of yarns. White and piece-dyed. Fades except in fast color fabric. Uses: dresses,
children's suits, uniforms, hangings. Weaveplain. Width, 27", 32", 36".
2. Ribbed silk fabric having cords or filling of worsted, silk rayon or cotton. Worsted is commonly
used, cotton filled poplin is inferior for service and beauty. Yarn or piece-dyed. Some silk poplins have the
fault of "slipping". Otherwise very durable. Does not wrinkle or gather dust. Uses: dresses, coats, suits,
trimmings. Weaveplain (corded). Width, 40".
3. Worsted fabric similar to panama except for corded effect; excellent wearing quality. Uses: dresses,
suits Weaveplain. Width, 44", 48", 54".
Priestley. Well known English manufacturer whose worsted
fabrics are sold by that name.
Print. General term for a printed cotton fabric.
Prints. Small printed patterns on cotton cloth often called Grandmsther prints.
Puritan prints, a trade name. Drapery
fabrics as cretonne and chintz with printed designs are
often called "prints".
Printed linen drapery fabrics. Originally hand block printed,
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now mostly machine printed. Cost, largely determined by
design and color. Weaveplain. Width, 30", 32", 36", 50".
Printing. Stamping a pattern with dye on warp or fabric with
wood block (hand method) or engraved copper rollers
(machine method).
1. Direct printing. The same principle as in paper printing. Separate engraved roller is required for
each color.
2. Discharge or extract. Method used for dark prints having white or light designs. Cloth is piece-dyed,
color is discharged or bleached in spots leaving white design. Ex.: blue calico with white dots. Dots tend to
drop out after wear if the cloth has been weakened by chemicals.
3. Resist. Principle used in batik dyeing (a hand process). Substances which will resist the dye are applied
to cloth in designs. Then cloth is dipped in dye. "Resists," as wax or certain clays, are then removed. May
be repeated for many-color effect. A combination of the above methods may be used. The resist
process is somewhat used commercially.
Prunella. Strong, smooth finished worsted cloth; yam-dyed. Plain or striped. Uses: dress goods,
scholastic and ecclesiastical gowns; heavy grade formerly for women's shoe tops. Weavetwill or satin.
Width, 42", 54".

Pulled wool. Taken from pelts of dead animals by chemical means. Inferior to sheared wool.
Pure dye. An unweighted dyed silk.
Pussy Willow.* See Radium.

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Radium. Fine, soft, closely woven fabric similar to good habutas but having greater lustre; washable.
Usually free from weighting. Pussy Willow* a trade name. Uses: waists, dresses, linings, negligees. Weave
plain. Width, 40".

Rajah.* Trade name for a pongee type of material having rough texture. Uses: dresses and curtains.
Weave-plain. Width, 36", 40".
Ramie (pr. ram-my). Fibre, similar to flax, obtained from stalk of a plant native to China. See Canton
Linen.
Ratine (pr. ra-tee-nay). Loosely woven, rough appearing
fabric of plain weave. Ratine effect produced by specially
prepared yarns. One yarn is twisted loosely about another
so that it looks nubby or knotty. Warp may be of plain
yarn with filling of rough yarns or the nubby yarns
may be used both ways giving the cloth a loose,
spongy character. .
1.Cotton ratine appears in many novelty effects in color and combinations with rayon. Yarn- or piece-dyed.
No finish. When loosely woven, tends to sag. Uses: dresses, suits. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 40", 54".
2. Silk ratine appears from time to time under novelty names similar to wool or cotton rating. See
Eponge.
3. Wool dress fabric for women's wear, more or loss loose and spongy. Tends to sag and the knots often
pull. Uses: dresses and coats. Weaveplain. Width, 54".
Raw fibres. Textile fibres in their natural state as silk "in the gum" and "raw cotton" as it comes from the
bale.
Rayon. (Fr. ray of light). Name adopted in 1924 for artificial silk. Formerly called manufactured silk, fibre
silk and, for a short time, glos. Lustrous textile fibre made by converting cellulose (wood pulp or cotton
linters), into a filament by means of a chemical and mechanical process. More lustrous and stiffer than silk;
not so strong but less expensive; dyes readily. Four processes, viscose, nitro-cellulose, cupra-ammonium
and acetate. Latter has distinct characteristics. Its products, sold under trade names as Celanese* and
lustron, are more like silk than are other types of rayon. Rayon yarns used extensively in knitted goods,
trimmings, laces, dress fabrics, alone or in combination with silk, cotton or wool.
Many novelty fabrics are known by trade names as Milo Sheen*, Luminelle*, and Trico Sham* Rayon dress
fabrics have a tendency to hold wrinkles.
Rhea (pr. ree-ah). Another name for the ramie plant.
Reeled silk. Silk filament wound directly from the cocoon into skeins; opposite of spun silk.
Rajah, ramie, ratine,rayon, rib, ripplette, roshanara, textiles definitions http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-r.html
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Remamifactured wool. Obtained by shredding woolen or worsted cloth and using the fibres again for
making yarn and cloth. Called shoddy or reclaimed wool.
Rep. (Repp). (Probably a corruption of word "rib''). Closely
resembles poplin. Rep has a heavier cord (filling yarn) and
is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstering. Cot
ton rep is usually mercerized. Piece-or yarn-dyed. Silk or
wool may be used in combination with each other or with cotton. Variations in effect are produced by dyeing
warp one color and filling another or by using an unevenly spun rilling which gives variety in texture as Shiki
rep. When a Jacquard figure is introduced on a rep background it is called armure. Uses: upholstery and
drapery purposes. Lighter weight, skirts and suits. Weaveplain. Width 27". 36", 50".
Resist printing. See Printing.
Rib. 1. Ridge or cord effect in woven fabric made by heavy filling as in poplin or rep. 2. Knit fabric with
lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on right and wrong sides. Called 1 and I rib. Swiss rib, originally
made in Switzerland has two wales alternating, also called 2 and 2 rib. Rib knitting is more elastic and more
expensive than plain knitting.
Rice net. Millinery fabric of stiff, white cotton woven with square mesh like marquisette; stiffer than
crinoline; sometimes called cape net. Uses: crowns and brims of hats. Weaveleno. Width, 18", 36".
Ripplette.* 1. Trade name for modern seersucker. 2. Also for crinkled or 'dimity bed spreads.
Rodier Freres, Paris. Famous designers of dress fabrics in silk, wool, cotton, rayon. Exclusive patterns.
Romper cloth.* See Gingham.
Roshanara.* Trade name for a novelty silk fabric of rough texture with worsted filling. Tends to shrink
when wet. Practically off the market.
Rubberized. Silk or cotton fabric made waterproof by a coating of rubber, as rain coat material.
Rubber sheeting. Plain cotton fabric treated with coating of rubber. Heavy weight usually maroon color,
used for hospital sheeting. Medium weight, white, double faced (coated on both sides) for hospital and
home use. Light weight, white, single faced used for infants' pants and crib sheets. Weaveplain. Width,
27", 36", 54", usually 36".
Russian crash, see Crash.


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Sateen or satine. Mercerized cotton fabric in satin weave
which in the better grades resembles satin made of silk.
True sateen has the filling on the surface while the better
qualities as Venetian have the warp on the surface. White, dyed or printed. Some lining sateens have a
twill weave. Heavy striped variety used for men's coat sleeve linings. Printed or yarn-dyed. Width of latter,
40". Uses: linings, petticoats, draperies, bloomers, comforters. Weavesatin. Width, 30", 32", 36".
Satin. I. Name of a basic weave. Most lustrous surface possible. Warp yarns arranged to conceal the
filling, or vice versa, thus making a smooth, shiny surface. In table damask the Jacquard pattern is
produced by the contrast of warp face and filling face satin. Double faced satins, as in ribbon, are made
with two sets of warp and one of filling. See Crepe-back satin.
2. Silk Fabric with satin wreave. May be all silk or have cotton back. Also in rayon as Baronette satin.*
Light weight satin is called messaline.
3. Duchesse. General term for rich, heavy silk dress satin, when in vogue.
4. Lining. Usually lighter in weight than dress satin. May be all silk or have cotton back. See
Merveilleux.
5. Wash Satin. May have cotton back finished for laundering. White, flesh color and other light colors.
Uses: blouses, brassieres, lingerie. Width, 36".
Schappe. Another name for spun silk.
Schreinerized. Kind of calendering which produces a high,
lustre on cotton cloth, usually on lining fabrics as sateens.
Steel rollers covered with finely engraved lines, 400 to 700
per inch, press the cloth with weight of two tons. Lustrous
effect, not permanent. Scotch wool rug. Flat woven, reversible rug. A type of ingrain.
SCRIM. COARSE, OPEN FABRIC WITH LITTLE SIZING. Distinguished
from marquisette which has characteristic leno weave.
Scrim is coarser than voile, usually mercerized, white, ecru,
plain or fancy woven or printed border. Uses: curtains
needlework. Weave-plain. Width, 36", 50".
Scroop. The rustle or crunch of silk developed by treatment
with dilute acids. Seamless. Hose knitted, one at a time, on circular machine.
Sea Island. Cotton grown on islands off southern coast of the United States. Noted for its fineness, length
and silky appearance. Used for fine thread and delicate fabrics.
Sealskin cloth. Fabric imitating sealskin, with pile of wild silk, dyed black.
Seco. See Silk and cotton mixtures.
Seconds. Fabrics or knit goods with flaws or imperfections, from the factory. Labelled as seconds and
sold at lower price. Defective garments called irregulars.
Seersucker. I. Light-weight cotton fabric, with alternating crinkled stripes. This is done by holding
textile definition satin, schappe,scrim, silk, serge, sericin,shaker, shantung http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-s.html
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alternate groups of warp yarns slack in the loom. May be laundered without ironing. Ripplette*, a trade
name. Uses: children's clothing, house-dresses. Old use, tan or gray and white for office coats. Weave
plain. Width, 29" or 32". 2. Bedspreads are made with crinkle stripes called dimity. See Austrian cloth and
Ripplette*.
Sello*. See Silk and cotton mixtures.
Selvage or selvedge. Also called "list". Finished edge on a woven or knitted fabric.
Semi-fashioned. Seamless hose with mock seam to imitate full-fashioned. Confusing term.
Serge. Fabric of twill weave with four harnesses 2/2.
1. Mercerized cotton lining material used for coat linings. Weave-twill. Width, 32".
2. Mohair lining f abricf or men's overcoats. All mohair or cotton warp with mohair filling. Weave
twill. Width, 32".
3. Silk. See Surah.
4. Worsted dress fabric. Seldom has cotton warp. Sometimes combined with rayon for variety in
texture. Serge is often cravenetted. No wool fabric, more universally used than serge. Many weights and
finishes. The twill runs from upper right hand selvage diagonally to lower left hand selvage on right side. It
is just the reverse on the wrong side. The right side of the cloth is folded in when rolled on the bolt.
Storm serge is a coarse, wiry and more or less heavy
variety. French serge is very fine and smooth and
always wears shiny.
Light weight qualities of serge are made in narrow width. Uses: dresses, suits, coats, caps. Weavetwill.
Width, 36", 44", 50", 54", 60".
Sericin. The natural gummy substance surrounding the silk fibre (fibroin). Removed by "boiling off."
Serpentine Crepe.* See Crepe. Shade cloth. See Holland.
Shaker. Heavy jersey knitting for athletic or school sweaters.
Seven to fourteen two-ply yarns used. Shaker flannel. Originally made in gray by communities of
Shakers. Wool, cotton or mixed fabric napped on both sides. Now, usually cotton, white, unbleached or
gray. May be softer and thicker than outing flannel. Uses: inter-linings, diapers, underwear. Weave
plain. Width, 24", 26", 30", 36".
Shadow print. See Warp print.
Shantung. Heavy grade of pongee, or cotton fabric or silk
and cotton mixture. See Pongee.
Sheer. Very thin, diaphanous; as sheer organdie.
Sheeting. 1. Cotton. Heavy white or unbleached muslin, any width between 36" and 108". Referred to by
quarteryards as % (4 quarters) equals 36". Better qualities are made from 2 ply yarns both warp and
filling, and have firm, close weave, with little dressing. Poor grades contain much sizing. Twills are
sometimes used for greater strength in hospital sheets. Uses: sheets, pillow cases, uniforms, aprons.
Linen sheeting is like cotton sheeting except for its composition. Linen sheets stay clean longer than
cotton, feel smoother, keep whiter, and are more beautiful but they wrinkle and absorb moisture which is
objectionable in a damp climate. Tightly twisted uniform yarns are desirable. Linen sheeting is used
largely now for lunchcloths, napkins, skirts and uniforms. Weaveplain. Width, 72". Shepherd's plaid or
Shepherd's check. Name of all fabrics with small even checks in black and white. Made in wool, cotton,
and various combinations of wool and cotton.
Sherette.* See Flaxon*.
Shiki rep. See Rep.
Shirting silks (also called tub silks). Wash silks usually in plain weave with satin stripe in color.
Durability depends upon character of yarns and closeness of weave. Uses: men's shirts, women's blouses
and dresses. Weaveplain or fancy with satin stripe. Width, 36", 40".
Shoddy. See Remanufactured wool. Silk and rayon fabrics or yarns are also converted into fibres, called
silk shoddy or rayon shoddy.
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Shot. 1. The same as pick. 2. Changeable effect, as in silk by use of filling colors different from warp.
Showerproof. 1. Process which renders fabric waterproof or spotproof. 2. Registered trade mark for a
fabric having this finish.
Shuttle. Device used to carry weft or filling yarns back and forth in the warp to form cloth.
Shrinkage. The amount of contraction to which most fabrics are subjected from the loom to the finished
state. 1. In wash cotton, the shortened length after washing is due to releasing the tension of yarns which
have been stretched and sized. 2. For wool shrinkage see Felt (process).
Sicilian. See Brilliantine.
Sign cloth. Muslin heavily sized for printing.
Silcot.* See Silk and cotton mixtures.
Silence cloth. Soft, cotton fabric napped on both sides or quilted goods similar to bed pads; used under
table cloth to protect table and avoid noise of dishes. Width, 64", 72".
Silesia. Originally made in Silesia, a province of Prussia. Closely woven, light-weight, smoothly finished
cotton fabric. White, piece-dyed or yarn-dyed (striped). Uses: dress linings, heavy grade for trousers
pockets. Weave twill. Width, 27", 28", 30".
Silk and cotton mixtures. Large class of materials combining
cotton warp and spun silk, wild silk or rayon filling or silk
stripes in warp. Fancy weaves and prints. Durability depends upon strength of filling yarns which are
often light causing goods to split when under strain. Sold in dress goods and lining sections. Known by
various trade names as A.B.C.* Seco, Aledo, Sella* Sticot* Tezzo* etc. See Canton fabrics. Uses: linings,
dresses, curtains, undergarments. Weaveplain or Jacquard. Width, 27", 32", 36".
Silkaline. Thin, soft, glazed, cotton fabric, plain or printed. Lustre is lost in washing. Does not soil easily.
Uses: comforters, linings, curtains. Weave-plain. Width, 36".
Silk floss. See Kapok.
Silk gauze. Term loosely applied to thin silk curtain fabric of plain weave and to rayon and cotton curtain
goods of leno construction.
Singeing. See Gassing.
Sizing. Finishing process. Yarns and cloth treated with stiffening substance to give strength, stiffness
and smoothness. Size may contain starch (potato, wheat, corn, sago), glue, casein, gelatin, gluten,
minerals, wax, gum, paraffin, and antiseptic substances.
Slip cover fabric. Many drapery materials used for making slip covers for chairs and davenports, as
linen crash, warp print, cretonne, etc.
Smyrna. Kind of chenille rug that is reversible. Flat color or figured.
Snia-fil. Artificial or manufactured wool fibres made in Italy. Introduced into the United States in 1926. It
is a cellulose product; rayon filaments broken into short lengths and curled to give wooly and dull
appearance.
Soiesette* (pr. swa-zet). Trade named fabric of fine, smooth, even texture, highly mercerized; launders
exceptionally well; in white, plain colors and prints. Name stamped on the selvage. Uses: dresses, linings,
curtains, pajamas^ shirts, children's clothes. Weaveplain. Width, 32", 36",
Souple. A dull effect obtained in silk dyeing by removing a portion of the gum.
Spinning. Process of twisting fibres together to produce a yarn or thread. Fine spun yams require great
skill and entail much expense; used only in high grade fabrics and laces.
Splicing. Hose re-enforced by different kind of yarn in heel or toe, usually cotton to add strength.
Split foot. Black hose with white or Egyptian cotton sole.
Sponging. Process of shrinking wool goods before making. Sometimes done to keep cloth from water
spotting.
Sports silk. Wide variety of novelties used for sports wear, many of which are known by trade names as
Khaki Kool* Ruff-a-nuff.* Rayon is often combined with silk or cotton.
Spring needle. Type of needle used in making silk hose and some fine underwear.
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Spun silk. Yarn and cloth made of silk filaments which cannot be reeled from the cocoon. Silk is broken
into different lengths, carded, combed and spun. Used extensively in knit goods, pile fabrics and in
combination with cotton. Spun silk is distinguished from reeled silk which is stronger, more lustrous and
more expensive.
Stafford cloth. See Mercerized dyed fabrics.
Staple. 1. Any kind of textile fibre. Term used as an index of quality or fitness as "long staple.'' 2. Any
fabric or article sold year after year in contrast to a novelty.
Stock-dyeing. Process of dyeing fibres in raw state before spinning.
Stockinette. Elastic fabric, flat or tubular, made on a knitting machine. Used for infants' sleeping
garments and diapers.
Strand. Weight of silk hose, designated by number of strands used in knitting. Reeled silk is composed of
filaments from several cocoons. Six is average number; 5 to 7 are unwound at a time Twelve strand hose
means the yarn is made of 12x6 or 72 filaments of silk which are counted before degumming. Each
filament represents two filaments fastened together with silk glue. Therefore after degumming there will be
72x2 or 144 single filaments in a 12 strand yarn. Chiffon hosiery may have 2, 4 or 6 strand yarns; 10 or 12
is average weight; 14 strand is very heavy.
Suiting. General term applied to a variety of weaves and finishes. Many novelties are introduced from
time to time. Light weight for women's wear, heavier for men's suits. Weaveplain, twill or fancy. Width,
48", 52", 54", 56
Sunfast materials. See Mercerized dyed fabrics.
Suede finish. Produced on novelty wools and warp knit cotton fabrics for gloves. See Fabric gloves.
Surface is emerized as for duvetyn, or cloth is passed between carborundum cylinders which raise a fine
nap resembling chamois leather.
Surah. Soft twilled silk, often woven in plaid. Heavy grade of twilled silk is called "silk serge." Wears well
unless heavily weighted. Uses: waists, dresses. Weavetwill. Width, 36".
Surgeon's gauze. See Hospital gauze.
Swatch. Piece of cloth used as a sample.
Swiss. So called because first made in Switzerland. Fine, sheer, cotton fabric which may be plain or
embroidered in dots or figures. White or piece-dyed or embroidered in colors. Design may be introduced
by swivel weaving which produces shaggy surface on one side. Flock dot or figure may be applied
chemically. Swiss is crisp or stiff without a lustre. Uses: dresses, aprons, curtains. Weaveplain with
swivel or lappet design. Width, 28", 32", 36". Curtain Swiss may be plain, dotted or figured. It is always
stiff or crisp in appearance with no lustre or polish. Colored dots or figures are sometimes used on a white
ground. Launders well, but tends to shrink. Weave-plain with swivel or lappet patterns. Width, 36", 40".
Swiss rib. See Rib.
Swivel. Pattern of dots, as in Swiss, or small figures woven in ribbon. Differs from embroidery or lappet
weaving. Swivel patterns are formed by tiny shuttles carrying extra weft, which weaves a figure (often in
contrasting yarns or colors) while the regular weft or filling is operating. The wrong side has a shaggy
appearance where ends of swivel weft have been cut.

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Umbrella fabric. Made of silk or cotton or mixtures in plain or twill weave. Waterproofed; yarn-or
piece-dyed; many colors; fancy borders. See Gloria.
Unfinished worsteds. Worsteds that have a nap developed on the surface which is given a very light
shearing so that the woven pattern is obscured. Term, a misnomer because this process is a finish on
worsteds which are ordinarily unfinished after weaving.
Union. Fabrics having warp and filling of different fibres, as union huck with cotton warp, linen filling.
Upholstery velour. See Velour.
Upland cotton. General classification of all cotton grown in the highlands of the South. Short staple
cotton, distinguished from long staple as Egyptian, Sea Island and Pima.
V anity silk. Trade name for a kind of warp knit fabric used in underwear. Veiling. Net fabric of cotton,
silk or rayon. Fancy weaves and novelty patterns for face veils. Maline is a variety of veiling.
Velour or velours. (Fr. pr. ve-loor.)
1. General term for pile fabrics.
2. Drapery fabric with short pile, usually of mercerized cotton; also mohair and silk may be pressed flat
(panned) or in figures. Rich looking and durable. Uses: hangings, couch covers, upholstery. Weavepile.
Width, 50", 54".
3. Woolen dress fabric, so called because of velvety texture due to dull rich looking nap. Catches dust.
Poor qualities wear off and wrinkle. Uses: dresses, suits, coats.
Velvet. Broad a.nd inclusive term which covers all warp pile fabrics except plush and terry. Plush is a
variety of velvet
with a pile longer than yi inch. Velveteen is a general term that should cover all weft pile fabrics though it
is usually
defined as meaning a cotton velvet. All-silk velvets have a silk back. Most velvets have cotton back and
silk pile.
May have silk warp and cotton filling with silk pile called "silk warp" velvet. The ground weave may be
plain, satin
or twill, formed by warp and filling. The pile loops are carried over wires and cut with a knife blade
fastened at
the end of the wire or by shearing. Many velvets are woven double, face to face, and cut apart while still on
the loom
by a small knife which moves back and forth like a shuttle, Velveteens and corduroys are weft or filling pile
fabrics,
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having the pile loops or floats cut by a knife after weaving.
1. Brocaded velvet. See Brocade.
2. Chiffon velvet. Light weight, pile laid flat by pressing. Width, 40", 50".
3. Costume velvet. Wide velveteen (cotton velvet of good quality). Better grades have highly mercerized
pile; beautiful texture, durable. Width, 27", 36", 40", 44". Uses: dresses and suits.
4. Millinery or hat velvet. Usually called Lyons velvet. Generally has an erect pile (silk) somewhat deeper
than costume velvet. In poorer grades pile is not thick. Width, 17 H", 18", 19", 24".
5. Mirror velvet. Highly finished velvet produced by calendering. Pile is pressed flat or in different
directions.
6. Panne velvet. Heavier, closer pile than chiffon velvet. High grade fabric having pile laid flat and
pressed to give lustre. Weave-pile. Width, 18", 36".
7. Paon velvet. Heavier than panne with more pile which is also laid flat. Used for millinery purposes.
Width, 18".
VELVETEEN. Fabric with short cotton pile made in imitation of silk velvet. Uses: dresses, coats, hats, linings for
drawers and cases, theatrical curtains.
Venetian cloth. I. Mercerized cotton fabric, heavier than and superior to sateen; warp face satin, same
as farmer's satin. Uses: linings, petticoats, aprons, pillows. Weave satin. Width, 36". Better grades for
lining men's overcoats. Weave-satin or twill or combination in stripes. Width, 32", 36", 54"-2. Fine, soft
wool dress goods, resembling prunella only softer. Somewhat fulled but weave is apparent. Uses: dresses,
suits. Weave-twill or warp satin".
Vicuna. Wool from a small goat-like animal in South America. Very rare. Sometimes this name is given to a
soft wool fabric.
Vigoureux. Named for the inventor. Process of printing worsted fibres before spinning to give a mixed
color effect. Now used as a name of a fabric which shows a dark and light effect produced by vigoureux
yarns.
Virgin wool. Any wool which has not been previously manufactured into cloth.
Viscose. See Rayon. One of the processes by which rayon is produced.
Viyella.* See Flannel. Clydella*, a similar fabric contains less wool.
Voile. Thin, transparent, soft clinging cotton fabric made from two-ply yarns, tightly twisted. Dainty and
durable. Poorer quality of single yarns becomes fuzzy and is difficult to handle in sewing.
1. Cotton dress voile. White, dyed or printed. Used for undergarments. Weaveplain. Width, 36", 40".
2. Rayon dress voile. Beautiful in texture.
3. Curtain voile in cotton or mercerized cotton is finer than scrim and a little heavier than dress voile.
White, ecru, colors. Weaveplain, novelty, stripe or figure. Width, 40".
4. Wool voile dress goods is thin, smooth and wiry, made from worsted yarns very tightly twisted.
Durable, does not wrinkle, sheds dust. Not always in style.
Wale. Lengthwise line of loops which corresponds to direction of warp in woven fabric. Shows on right
side of jersey and on both sides of rib knitting.
Warp. Set of yarns which run lengthwise in a piece of cloth. See End.
Warp knit fabrics. Used in gloves, underwear, and some hose. Made on a special knitting frame which
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produces a flatter, closer and less elastic material than other knit goods as plain or rib fabric. Some coats,
suits and blankets, made of warp knit fabric and napped. Glove silk underwear is made of milanese or tricot.
Vanitysilk is a trade name. Swami cloth,* a trade name for a fabric used in brassieres; made of cotton, silk
or rayon or combinations.
Warp pile. Fabrics woven so that an extra set of warp yarns form the pile.
Warp print or shadow print. Silks, ribbons and cretonnes woven with plain filling on a printed warp which
gives a faint and shadowy design. See Chine.
Wash silk. Fabrics finished for washing. Shirtings and dress fabrics in plain and novelty weaves. Usually
33".
Waste silk. Noils left after combing the vmreelable filaments in the cocoon for spun silk. Carded and spun
like cotton and used as silk shoddy in low grade mixtures or in novelty goods requiring a dull, limp effect.
Used in cartridge cloth for machine guns.
Watered. See Moire.
Waterproofing. Process of rendering fabrics waterproof or moisture repellent; the latter describes most
so-called waterproof fabrics. Produced by treatment with aluminum salts. Actual waterproofing done by
impregnating fabric with solution of crude rubber or preparation of oils and paraffin. See Craveneite*.
Weave. The interlacing of warp and filling yarns with each other to form cloth.
Web. Refers to warp or partly woven cloth in the loom.
Weft knit. Fabric constructed by simple knitting process as distinguished from warp knitting. A broken
yarn causes a runner.
Weight of cloth. Many fabrics are sold by weight as wool goods for men's suits. Ex.: 8 oz. serge. See
Duck.
Weighting. Addition of any substance to increase natural weight of fabric. Usually refers to weighted or
"loaded" silks which contain metallic salts as chlorides or sulphates of iron, tin, aluminum or magnesium.
Rice powder or sugar solution may increase weight of silk. Cotton or linen may be weighted with sizing,
China clay, etc.
Welt. Hem or garter top of hose.
Whip cord. Twill with pronounced diagonal cord. See Gabardine.
Width. 1. Distance between two selvages of cloth. 2. Edges of flat knit fabric.
Wigart. Canvas-like cotton fabric, closer than crinoline, in varying degrees of stiffness. Colors, black, white,
gray and tan. Uses: interlining for front of men's coats. Weave plain. Width, 34".
Wild silk. Coarse, tan or natural color filament produced by species of silk worm which cannot be
cultivated. Found in pongee.
Willow. Two-ply millinery fabric made from fine strips of woody fibre woven and pasted to crinoline. There
are three grades; one stiff, one medium stiff and one without crinoline back. Originally made in Italy and
Bohemia, but since the War largely in Japan. Uses: hat frames for velvet and cloth hats. Made in sheets,
24", 30".
Wilton. Kind of carpet, first made in England; cut pile fabric; back usually of cotton, may be hemp or jute;
pile of woolen yarns or of worsted for the better grades, called Royal or French Wilton. Colors in pattern
controlled by Jac-quard loom. Carpet by running yard 27" wide or rugs made to standard sizes. The
following, most commonly used: 27" by 54"> 36" by 63", 4'6" by 7'6", 6' by 9', 8'3" by io'6", 9' by 12', 9' by
15', 9' by 18'.
Woof. Some as weft or filling.
Woolen. I. Cloth which has been fulled or shrunken after weaving, and finished by brushing or napping,
shearing and polishing to a greater or less degree. Broadcloth and chinchilla cloth are examples. 2. Yarn
used for knitting or weaving made from fibres (usually short and curly)
which have been mixed loosely before spinning. They tend to shrink more than worsted yarns.
Worsted. I. Cloth made from worsted yarns as serge and gabardine. There is little finish after weaving
which leaves a smooth surface with distinct weave. 2. Yarn made from fibres (preferably long and
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hair-like) which have been laid parallel before spinning. It is possible to combine some short fibres with
long ones, but true worsted contains long wools. Worsted yarns are superior to woolen for knitting and
carpets. They are necessary to produce a worsted type of cloth (see above).

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Yard goods or yardage. Cloth sold by the running yard as distinguished from made-up garments, rugs,
blankets, bed spreads, etc.
Yarn. A continuous strand of spun fibres used for weaving or knitting. Distinguished from thread,
composed of two or more yarns (ply) united by twisting. Thread is used for sewing, not for weaving.
Yarn-dyed. Fabrics, the yarns of which were dyed before weaving.
Zephyr. 1. Fabrics of light and delicate texture described by this term. See Gingham. 2. Light weight yarn
for knitting, crocheting and needlework.
Zephyrized. Knit underwear manufacturers have agreed to use this term to indicate a light weight
bleached knit fabric.
Zibeline. Origin, "zibeline" meaning fur or pelt of a sable. Heavy woolen fabric having a long hairy nap
laid down on the surface. Stock-or yarn-dyed; fulled, napped, brushed; durable, depending upon quality;
hairs tend to wear off the surface. Uses: coats and suits. Weave twill.
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yarn, zibeline, zephyr, fabric definitions http://belovedlinens.net/fabdico/textile-dictionary-xyz.html
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