Fast & Fun Fashion UNDER AN HOUR

S
T
Y
L
I
N
G

C
R
E
D
I
T
S
:

(
P
.

6
0
,
L
E
F
T
)

D
R
E
S
S

J
E
S
S
I
C
A

S
I
M
P
S
O
N

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
T
I
G
H
T
S

C
O
S
M
E
T
I
Q
U
E

(
A
N
T
H
R
O
P
O
L
O
G
I
E
.
C
O
M
)
,
J
E
W
E
L
R
Y

K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
O
L
E

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
;

(
P
.

6
0
,
R
I
G
H
T
)

D
R
E
S
S

C
L
U
B

M
O
N
A
C
O

(
C
L
U
B
M
O
N
A
C
O
.
C
O
M
)
,
T
I
G
H
T
S

H
U
E

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
;

(
P
.

6
1
)

S
W
E
A
T
E
R

A
N
D

L
E
G
G
I
N
G
S

I
N
C

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
S
H
O
E
S

E
T
I
E
N
N
E

A
I
G
N
E
R

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
J
E
W
E
L
R
Y

L
U
C
K
Y

(
L
U
C
K
Y
B
R
A
N
D
.
C
O
M
)
P
H
O
T
O
S
:

(
P
.

6
0
,
P
.

6
1
,
A
N
D

P
.

6
3
,
L
E
F
T
)

J
A
C
K

D
E
U
T
S
C
H
,
S
T
Y
L
I
S
T
S
:

J
E
S
S
I
C
A

S
A
A
L

A
N
D

J
O
H
A
N
N
A

L
A
R
A
C
U
E
N
T
E
,
H
A
I
R

A
N
D

M
A
K
E
U
P
:

G
R
E
G

C
L
A
R
K

F
O
R

H
A
L
L
E
Y

R
E
S
O
U
R
C
E
S
;

A
L
L

O
T
H
E
R
S
,
S
L
O
A
N

H
O
W
A
R
D
.

I
L
L
U
S
T
R
A
T
I
O
N
S
:

K
A
T
H
Y

B
R
A
Y
One basic design
yields infinite possibilities
Custom
Coat
60 sewstylish SewStylish.com
SIP9_F3.indd 60 10/28/09 2:37:11 PM
S
T
Y
L
I
N
G

C
R
E
D
I
T
S
:

(
P
.

6
0
,
L
E
F
T
)

D
R
E
S
S

J
E
S
S
I
C
A

S
I
M
P
S
O
N

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
T
I
G
H
T
S

C
O
S
M
E
T
I
Q
U
E

(
A
N
T
H
R
O
P
O
L
O
G
I
E
.
C
O
M
)
,
J
E
W
E
L
R
Y

K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
O
L
E

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
;

(
P
.

6
0
,
R
I
G
H
T
)

D
R
E
S
S

C
L
U
B

M
O
N
A
C
O

(
C
L
U
B
M
O
N
A
C
O
.
C
O
M
)
,
T
I
G
H
T
S

H
U
E

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
;

(
P
.

6
1
)

S
W
E
A
T
E
R

A
N
D

L
E
G
G
I
N
G
S

I
N
C

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
S
H
O
E
S

E
T
I
E
N
N
E

A
I
G
N
E
R

(
M
A
C
Y
S
.
C
O
M
)
,
J
E
W
E
L
R
Y

L
U
C
K
Y

(
L
U
C
K
Y
B
R
A
N
D
.
C
O
M
)
P
H
O
T
O
S
:

(
P
.

6
0
,
P
.

6
1
,
A
N
D

P
.

6
3
,
L
E
F
T
)

J
A
C
K

D
E
U
T
S
C
H
,
S
T
Y
L
I
S
T
S
:

J
E
S
S
I
C
A

S
A
A
L

A
N
D

J
O
H
A
N
N
A

L
A
R
A
C
U
E
N
T
E
,
H
A
I
R

A
N
D

M
A
K
E
U
P
:

G
R
E
G

C
L
A
R
K

F
O
R

H
A
L
L
E
Y

R
E
S
O
U
R
C
E
S
;

A
L
L

O
T
H
E
R
S
,
S
L
O
A
N

H
O
W
A
R
D
.

I
L
L
U
S
T
R
A
T
I
O
N
S
:

K
A
T
H
Y

B
R
A
Y
PREPARE YOUR FABRI C. Before you begin,
decide how you want to care for your nished
garment. If you want it to be washable, prewash the fabric.
{1}
LAY THE FABRI C FLAT. Position the fabric wrong-
side up on a large surface; a gridded cutting mat is
ideal. Make sure the fabric is even and square in all directions.
{2}
T
ake one length of fabric, sew two short seams, and then
play with edge treatments and embellishments for a
super-easy, super-fun cover-up. This basic design can
make a coat, blouse, vest, and morein any length from bolero
to maxi and any width from column to tent. This technique is
so popular, people have used it for 2,000 years; its called a bog
coat, and its possibilities are endless.
The keys to this smart garment are its simple structure and
choosing the right fabrics. Choose an interesting nished length,
combine unexpected colors and trims, and youre ready to go.
The best fabrics for this design are either very drapey or
quite sti. Fabrics with a liquid drape such as a georgette or
woven rayon atter most sizes because they slide over curves
and hint at the bodys shape without showing every detail.
Sti fabrics create the same eect if you make the garment
slightly oversized.
SUSAN B. ALLEN
Make a basic bog coat
It starts with an arms span (or less) width of fabric. The length
is determined by the desired finished coat length. You then
make three simple cuts in the fabric and sew two seams.
Clasps or buttons
Fabric
Pins
Scissors
Sewing machine
Thread
Optional:
> Trim
Supplies
CHOOSE THE ARMHOLE DEPTH. How wide do you
want your sleeves? You can tell from the photographs that
this is not a tted garment; the arms are full, but the amount of
ease in the sleeve can vary from somewhat close to the underarm
(about 10 inches for a petite person to 15 inches for a taller person)
and as low as the waist.
{3}
CREATE THE
SHOULDER
FOLD. Fold the top
edge down to the
desired armhole
depth. Mark the fold
with pins.
{4}
3
0

t
o

7
2

i
n
c
h
e
s

l
o
n
g
50 to 60 inches wide
Rip or pull thread to
straighten the edge.
Fold and pin.
Adapted from The Bog Coat: One-
Seam Sophistication in Threads No. 87
WINTER 2009 61
SIP9_F3.indd 61 10/28/09 2:37:35 PM
CUT THE NECK OPENI NG.
Open the shoulder fold, and fold
the fabric in half vertically. Measure from
the top edge to the line of pins. Cut a
U-shaped piece 2 to 2
1
2 inches from the
fold, as shown at right. Staystitch the neck
curve. Open the fold, and lay out the fabric
with the shoulder line folded down again,
carefully aligning the grain.
{5}
SEW THE SLEEVE SEAM. You can sew the
seams with either the right or wrong sides
together. Start by aligning the seam edges (A and B) from
the center front to the cu, and pin. Stretch the diagonal
slash pivot point as needed. Sew the sleeve seam with
a basting stitch and the narrowest possible seam
allowance. You can cover the seam on the outside with
a folded band of fabric sewn into the seam and pressed
down over it, or you can otherwise nish the seam.
{8}
How wide, how long?
The best fabrics for this garment are at least 55 inches wide so they provide
ample ease for drape in a soft fabric or drama in a stiff one. As you can see
from the schematic, the width of the fabric determines not only the sleeve
length but also the overall circumference. You can piece narrower fabrics to
increase the width.
To create a slim, elegant illusion, plan for 10 to 20 inches of ease. This
means a 45-inch-wide fabric would t about a 30-inch hip. But even petite
gures look great in 55- or 60-inch-wide bog coats, provided the right drapey
fabric is used, perhaps belted or otherwise nipped in at the waist. If the gar-
ment is too big for your taste, trim o a few inches from the selvage next
time to reduce the circumference, and if needed, add bands to the sleeves to
lengthen them.
If you have plenty of fabric, use these guidelines: For a shrug, measure
shoulder to waist, double that, and add 2 inches. For all other vests, tunics,
jackets, or robes, measure from the shoulder to the desired hemline and add
16 inches (or whatever your preferred armhole depth is); add an extra
1
2 yard
for pockets, bands, and trim.
V
e
r
t
i
c
a
l

f
o
l
d
2 to 2
1
2 inches
from the fold
A
One seam
Slash pivot
point
CREATE THE
SI DE FOLD.
Fold B to A, allowing the
diagonal clip to expand,
and making sure that
edge B aligns with the
neck opening at A. Correct
if necessary; if the edges
dont align either, recut
the neck-opening edges
above A, or trim the edges
below B.
{7}
Pin-baste, and try on.
A A
B B
CUT THE SLEEVE. Label the outer edge of the
fabric below the fold B. Measure from A to B,
divide that distance in half, and then subtract
1
2 inch.
Cut this length, following the raw sleeve edge. Make a
1
4 inch diagonal clip at the end, as shown below for a
slash pivot point.
{6}
Foldline
1
4-inch diagonal clip
A A
B
B
62 sewstylish SewStylish.com
SIP9_F3.indd 62 10/28/09 2:38:02 PM
There are many ways to finish the edges, you can
bind the edges with a coordinating trim; turn the
edges under and stitch; overcast the edges with a
serger; or line the entire jacket to the edge with a
contrast lining.
Buttons, clasps,
and ties close
the jackets
shown on these
pages. You can
invent your
own closures.
A bog coat can be formal or sporty.
This reversible two-toned jacket
features patch pockets that make
it extra functional. Any of these
designs can be cut with a variety
of sleeve lengths and widthsand
even sleeveless to make a vest.
Finishing options
These coats are fun to make because the sewing is
minimal, but the creative expression is unlimited. Let
the fabric set the pace, and then trim with design
and delight.
Bind the edges with fabric.
Bind the edges with trim.
Line the entire jacket in
contrasting fabric.
WINTER 2009 63
SIP9_F3.indd 63 10/28/09 2:38:28 PM