A/W 14-15

TRENDS
SHOES
& BAGS
the gourmet
mash-up
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The Ars Sutoria Trends Guide is specically developed for designers and merchandisers who have
to create collections in the eld of shoes & bags.
The typical workow of a company has to deal not only with creativity and trends but also with
marketing, merchandising and technical development. Thanks to the connection between the
publishing house and the Ars Sutoria School we are in the conditions to offer a unique tool.
This publication is issued twice a year: in January and June.
CONTENT OF THE BOOK
Four major trends on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed offering unique insights and ideas. Each
trends is divided in three sections:
CONCEPT: This rst section presents and introduces the inspirational and creative trend themes.
It explains the main basic concepts of the theme and then species the key colours and the
proportions in which they will be used. Images introduce the atmosphere of the trend, together
with materials and a selection of iconic shoes and bags.
CONSUMER PROFILE: This section is intended to focus the market positioning of the collection.
Each trend is more related to a specic consumer prole. We identify the target consumer of each
trend looking at: where he lives, what he likes to do during his free time, which are the opinion
leaders he follows, what retails concepts he likes more, which goods he desires to buy, websites
he surfs, music he listen to. At the end of the section you can nd a list of brands that can be
analyzed as competitors or reference brands.
COLLECTION PLANNING: The rst question to be answered at this point always considering that
the collection will be created inside a company concerns the investments in the development of
new structures/materials. This means understanding, for each of the four trends, whether to focus
more on investing in structures (designs of new soles and heels with consequent mould opening,
etc.) or to focus more on purchasing new materials for dressing up the existing products in order
to enliven the collection.
MERCHANDISING THE TREND: to better illustrate the key structures or materials, we have
selected a range of sample shoes and bags, highlighting the most commercially viable
brands.
Photos can be easily found on arstrends.com website, a footwear and leathergoods overview.
SKETCHING THE TREND: the work ends with a real stylistic proposal, a sample collection of
designs with structured themes and balanced offering of the most conceptual and rened
ideas, as well as simpler and more commercial products.
MATERIALS FOR THE TREND: close to the sketches, we have provided material references
from Italian suppliers. A nal section recaps materials and components that best match
each trend.
Mash-up
the gourmet
mash-up
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CONTEMPORARY
JAPAN POP
Tropical + Vintage
Glamour + Folk
POPULAR CULTURE
+ THEATRICAL
Ornamental + Rustic
Symbols + Pattern Matching
ART +
XX CENTURY TRASH
Casual + Decor Mesh
Fresh Mash + Style Look
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PANTONE

18-5610 TPX
PANTONE

17-0330 TPX
PANTONE

15-0646 TPX
PANTONE

19-4006 TPX
PANTONE

18-2525 TPX
PANTONE

17-1558 TPX
PANTONE

16-1364 TPX
PANTONE

17-1118 TPX
PANTONE

18-1048 TPX
Concept
Picking out and superimposing a mix of cultures.
Aesthetic styles typical of the last century, between rustic and
Japanese pop. Unconventional enough to become an icon of
contemporary trash. A new Urban Folk, full of popular and
artistic references that dictated the styles of the XX Century. From retro
design to pop art. The new artistic currents turn to contemporary pop,
graphic and colourful, natural and organic.
Colours
Colour palettes that underline a surreal taste to combine
unusual tones. Orange and green. Chocolate and neon yellow.
Turquoise and shocking pink. Lime and lipstick red. Black and black.
Military green and burgundy.
Materials
Rich materials, rustic materials. Gold fabrics,
geometrical printed designs, tapestry in natural bres. Nylon, rubber,
polyurethane, high-frequency nishes. Painted studs, tarnished
metals. Chains of polished wood, gunmetal rings. Dyed furs in
shades of colour. Patchwork for new generation matelass kilting.
Flock effect on experimental materials. Wool, complex jacquard,
treated leathers. Appliqu and embroidery.
Mash-Up
PANTONE

18-5610 TPX
PANTONE

17-0330 TPX
PANTONE

15-0646 TPX
PANTONE

19-4006 TPX
PANTONE

18-2525 TPX
PANTONE

17-1558 TPX
PANTONE

16-1364 TPX
PANTONE

17-1118 TPX
PANTONE

18-1048 TPX
PANTONE

and PANTONE Textile COLOUR System

TM
are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identied textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Tropical Folklore
The new mix of folk cultures from far and near
share the modern Pop art mood, including that
of music, leading to the current multicultural
meltdown and exchange. A market trend that
also attracts the big brands, to give a fresh and
youthful touch with very commercial capsule
collections, easy to sell online. Trash culture
whose loud colours and graphic designs
represent the favourite ingredients of the new
Asian generation, as well as Latin Americans.
A pop culture that mixes tastes and styles of
music and patterns.
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MOODBOARD
tropical + vintage
glamour + folk
popular culture + theatrical
ornamental + rustic
local symbols + pattern matching
art + xx century trash
funky + japan pop
SHOES-WOMEN:
guzzy surfaces,
velvet, ribbons
and yarns
BAGS-WOMEN:
chaos and
material chaos
SHOES-MEN:
cubist and
geometric
embroidery
BAGS-MEN: interwoven
patterns and knitting
ACCESSORIES:
richness of
applications
and decorations
LEATHER: art
as new source
of inspiration.
Prints,
laser cuts,
embroideries,
color uo
HEELS AND SOLES:
insert texture, spray
colors, wooden heels,
digital pattern to the
soles tail
TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS:
bubbling, uffy prints,
uo pigments
ACCESSORIES
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CONSUMER
PROFILE
Tokyo
Miami
Vladivostock
Ekaterinburg
Mexico City
Rio de Janeiro
Seoul
Las Vegas
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They live in cities where
cultures have mixed
together to create new
artistic movements.
New kitsch mixes with
modern street style.
Mexico City
Las Vegas - gambling
Meeting of cosplayers in Harajuku
Zona Maco Mexico City. The largest art
exhibition in Latin America
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Pop art events
Contemporary street activities
Unbridled shopping
Swapping or bartering as a new form of consumption
Happened to be @ Hua-Hin 1 Bangkok
Milan Manga Festival
Pop exhibitions
Zona Maco
Nicola Formichetti and Gage/Clemenceau architects
made their debut at this years Boffo Building
Architecture in NYC
social:
Social networks for exchanging photos quickly
- P1.cn: social network for elite Chinese bloggers, journalists and artists
- Shoestagram: rst social network dedicated to sharing photos of shoes
- DianDian: light blogging service
- Pinterest: social network where you can create real photo albums
and share, tag and comment photos
- Yatzer.com: platform for sharing photos of art and design
- VK: the best Russian social network. Excellent place for sharing
photos and chatting.
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We Chat
The No. 1 instant messaging service in China.
Created in 2011, it now has 300 million users.
It is interactive with the possibility of sharing photos
and following friends and celebrities. It is now also
used as a strategic application for viral marketing by
companies such as Starbucks.
Fast and funny, and based on manga-style
emoticons.
Milan Manga Festival
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Oksana On
Style Bubble
Lynn Yaeger
famous fashion
journalist
Takashi Murakami
Han HuoHuo
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Nicola Formichetti
Ex art director for Thierry Mugler
Current creative director for Diesel
Fashion Stylist for Lady Gaga
Director of Mens Vogue Japan
Designer of the Nicopanda line
Considered the new Andy Warhol
Formichetti & Renzo Rosso patron Diesel
Formichetti & Lady Gaga
Uniqlo new
collection
Lifewear in
collaboration
with Nicola
Formichetti
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Sergey Lazarev. Once of the most popular singers
in Russia
Ivan Urgant on the cover of Interview magazine.
Urgant is the most famous TV presenter in Russia
Ulyana Sergeenko. Russian socialite and fashion
designer, and style icon
Miroslava Duma. New icon for young Russians,
ambassador of Chanel in Russia
Fa Bingbing.
Fa Bingbing. The most famous actress
in China. Style icon even in the West
Barbie HSU Taiwanese
actress and singer known
for her love of shoes
Barbie HSU
Sergey Lazarev
Ivan Urgant
Miroslava Duma
Ulyana
Sergeenko
Flea Markets
Mix-and-match concept stores
Pop up stores
Trendy malls
Flynow agship store in Bangkok
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Common People
concept store in
Mexico City
Brick Lane Market London
Nicopanda pop up store Harajuku
Aura, the second largest mall in
Russia
Louis Vuitton pop up store Miami
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Easy pop technology
Coloured watches
Fun and extravagant cars
car:
- Lamborghini pop and fancy
- Smart by Jeremy Scott
- Ros Lovergrove by Renault
pop technology:
- Hi Panda
- Hi Fun
perfumes:
- Madly Kenzo
watches:
- Swatch 30th Anniversary collection
- Pop Swatches
Smart by Jeremy Scott
Swatch 30th
Anniversary
collection
Madly Kenzo
Hi Panda
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Folk Pop Design
Fun artistic objects
design:
-Kartell
-Cosplay statues
capsule collection:
- Roy Lichtenstein & Barneys collection
of accessories for home and bags
art pieces:
- Elisabeth Lecourt
- Marco Lodola
- Joe Sorren
Roy Lichtenstein & Barneys
Joe Sorren
Joe Sorren: American is the rst artist to be
supported by fundraising via the internet.
Marco Lodola
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Pop music with
electronic elements
- The Coachella
Festival is held
every year in Indio,
California. Mecca
for those who love
electronic music and
sculptural exhibitions.
Will I am
Niki Minaj
Katy Perry
Coachella 2013
- Strawberry Festival of
pop and electronic music
is the most popular
music festival in China.
Organised in Shanghai
and Beijing with Chinese
and international artists.
Lady Gaga
Commerciali
Luxury
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Casual Street
Glamour Folk
COLLECTION
PLANNING
RALPH LAUREN
VOLTA FOOTWEAR
SNEAKERS
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HYBRID
DRESSY
Trend positioning according to the outsole
New urban folk for an aggressive, young, graphic and colourful theme.
Beyond the catwalks, it is a theme that lends itself well to the interpretation of streetwear,
therefore, the world of rubber soles, hybrids and sneakers for men and women.
For women: a dressy product for a woman who wants something fun and loves playing
with patterns and colours. Decorated velvet and wool are the most important materials.
For men: dressy remains a market niche/fashion show, while free reign is given to
graphics on linings and structures with rubber soles for a more marketable product.
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DOLCE & GABBANA
CUSTO BARCELONA DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND DOLCE & GABBANA
VOLTA FOOTWEAR
STREET FASHION - MILAN
dressy: colourfull and graphic dressy
colourfull and graphic dressy
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catwalk products - exhibitions
products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
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boots: decor and color
decorated hybrid
FORNARINA
catwalk products - people
products from exhibitions - catwalk products
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folk boots
XYXYX
BUNKER
products from exhibitions
KILIM BOOTS
KILIM BOOTS
multicolour rainy boots
SPERRY TOP SIDER
COLORS OF CALIFORNIA
SOREL
SOREL
products from exhibitions
pattern matching sneakers
pattern matching sneakers
CANDICE COOPER
DKNY
CANDICE COOPER
BEVERLY HILLS POLO CLUB
SPRING FOOTWEAR
SPRING FOOTWEAR
products from exhibitions
products from exhibitions
DUE DI PICCHE RECYCLED
GOLA + LIBERTY
pattern matching sneakers
funny hybrid man
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products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products
products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products
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graphic hybrid & sneakers
multicolors sneakers
STRADA
SOULLAND
MUTTA
CANDICE COOPER
products from exhibitions
products from exhibitions - people
GOLA + LIBERTY
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BARRACUDA
Trend positioning according to materia
This theme loves to mix different materials creating graphics and
overlapping designs, also thanks to the contrasting materials. The starring role
goes to fabrics inspired by native and folk designs combined with thick leather.
Fantastic and surreal shapes deriving from the world of pop culture,
interpreted with art and patch themes. Baskets, clutch bags, buckets,
hexagonal shapes, gypsy bags, coloured backpacks.
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MIX
LEATHER
TEXTILE /NEW
MATERIALS
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CUSTO BARCELONA
KENZO CARVEN
RALPH LAUREN
folck & graphic
decor on maxi volume
products from exhibitions - catwalk products
products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
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patterns
fantasy pochette & clutch
products from exhibitions - catwalk products
products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products
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SKETCHES
colourfull and graphic dressy
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FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA
colourfull and graphic dressy
1
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boots: decor & colour
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boots: decor & colour
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folk boots
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decorated hybrid
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pattern matching sneakers on heel
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pattern matching sneakers
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funny hybrid man
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graphic sneakers
V
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multicolor sneakers
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patterns
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decor on maxi volume
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graphic unisex
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American Asian Flow
the gourmet
mash-up
r
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a
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american
METROPOLITAN
DAILY WEAR
Pragmatic + Practical
Tailor + Innovative
CONTEMPORARY
LOOKS
Functional + Innovative
Androgynous + Globalism
CASUALLY COOL
DOWNTOWN STYLE
Edgy Masculinity
Kinetic Wear
S
T
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T

F
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H
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N

-

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M
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PANTONE

19-0915 TPX
PANTONE

18-0201TPX
PANTONE

19-4010 TPX
PANTONE

18-3949 TPX
PANTONE

19-1250 TPX
PANTONE

16-1364 TPX
PANTONE

12-4306 TPX
Concept
New metropolitan daywear has an American/Asian feel. The
leader is Alexander Wang, followed by Thakoon Panichgul,
Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim and Derek Lam. This style falls into the
market segment called contemporary. Its functional, smart,
technological, androgynous. The new Asian creators who
have grown up in the US dictate fresh rules in American and European
dress. They design pragmatic products of excellent quality/price ratio,
starting from models proven on the market which they elaborate with
innovative details.
Colours
Salable and primary tones. Matt black, shiny burgundy,
mirrored petrol blue, bitter chocolate, steel blue, dry sand beige, mink
brown, orange tan. Full and bold colours.
Materials
Synthetics, innovative, high performance,
futuristic, substantial. Thick but lightweight.
Bonded and double-face. Punching together with nylon and nappa.
Brushed leather and crisp nylon. Skins and synthetics characterized
by nishes of perfect precision.
American
Asian Flow
PANTONE 19-0915 TPX
PANTONE

18-0201TPX
PANTONE

19-4010 TPX
PANTONE

18-3949 TPX
PANTONE

19-1250 TPX
PANTONE

16-1364 TPX
PANTONE

12-4306 TPX
PANTONE

and PANTONE Textile COLOUR System

TM
are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identied textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Metropolitan daywear
A new approach to urban sportswear opens
the contemporary market, launched by a new
generation of Asian designers born in the US.
Big international department stores are convinced
enough to open up areas dedicated to this
contemporary style. Metropolitan daily wear
is functional, smart and unisex. Models tried
out online, featuring innovative hi-tech details,
popular colours and sharp lines, prove that the
new urban style is in line with global taste.
B
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3
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MOODBOARD
metropolitan daily wear
pragmatic + practical
functional + innovative
androgynous + global
high tech + smart
casually cool + sportswear
edgy masculinity
digital wear + active
SHOES-WOMEN:
Honeycomb
structures +
geometric tracery
BAGS-WOMEN:
Travel functionality.
Rigorous and
clean. Supple
nappa and matt
syntethic
SHOES-MEN:
steel + leather
+ rubber
BAGS-MEN:
compact and exible
protection
ACCESSORIES: pointed and metallic color
ACCESSORIES: pointed and metallic color
LEATHER: double
aspect, inside/outside
HEELS:
transparencies
and overlays
TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS:
disassembling
and reassembling
ACCESSORIES
M
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SOLES
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I

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TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS
S
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P
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X
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Y
CONSUMER
PROFILE
W
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E

T
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Y

L
I
V
E
Hong Kong Cosbay Bay. Contemporary landscape
New York Hearst Building.
Technological renewal
They live in cities that develop vertically where
futuristic architecture lays the foundations for
new contemporary daily wear.
Technological and functional
New York
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore
Seoul
Paris
Shanghai
Los Angeles
Chicago
Les Halles Paris. Huge investments in design
F
R
E
E

T
I
M
EThey love to travel and possess functional and practical items
They love technological watches, and are avid enthusiasts.
They visit exhibitions such as Shanghai Glamour at MOCA in NY
- The Art of Packing. Tutorial video by Louis Vuitton
on the art of packing a suitcase
- Tours that include the Architecture of Shanghai
- Project by Zaha Hadid for Milan. Example of the
city of the future
- The Blue Man Show from Las Vegas: they are
attracted to performances and shows where technology
creates surprising and entertaining moments
- House of the Senses, Milan Design Week 2013.
Sensorial Video Installation
Travel bags and
objects that are
contemporary
and functional
The Art of Packing
The Blue Man Show
Shanghai
Project for Milano by Zaha Hadid
House of the Senses
O
P
I
N
I
O
N

L
E
A
D
E
R
S
New Asian celebrities on the international
scene Asian-American designers
- Style Bubble stylebubble.typad.com
Famous Eastern blogger
- Alexander Wang Alexanderwang.com
- Takhoon Takhoon.com
- Phillip Lim 31philliplim.com
- Chen Daoming, Chinese actor and icon
- Andy Lau, Chinese actor and singer
- Wang Shu, Chinese architect winner of
the Prtzker Architecture Prize
Style Bubble
Takhoon
Phillip Lim
Alexander Wang
Chen Daoming
Andy Lau
Wang Shu
Flagship stores and malls with futuristic
architecture, these are their favourite places for
experiencing the contemporary product
Shopping with augmented reality, interactive
touch-screen videos, magic mirrors like those in
the Diesel agship store of Milan.
Barneys New York is the rst department store to
dedicate one whole oor to contemporary style.
Selfridges and La Rinascente are specialising in
contemporary brands.
Iconic stores:
- Browns in London
- Colette in Paris
- Bif in Milan
- Joyce in HK
- Siam Paragon in Bangkok
R
E
T
A
I
L
Apple Store Beijing
Reel Shanghai
Taikoo Hui Guanzhou
K11 Mall
K11 Mall, Shanghai 2013. The rst mall where
contemporary art and shops alternate
W
E
B

R
E
T
A
I
L
E-commerce sites are for buying, while the
actual stores are for learning about and seeing
the product
Showrooming phenomenon: the
consumer tries on the product in the store and
then buys it online
Web platforms that also have 3D experience
E-commerce list:
- Gilt
- Net a Porter
- Hyperbeast
- Lanecrawford e-commerce
Interactive E-commerce
- Website of the Victoria Beckham brand. The
site is full of videos and interactive contents
- Louis Vuitton is very active on the Sina Weibo
Chinese social network. Sharing exclusive
contents with the community
- Bif Milano e-commerce
- Selfridges e-commerce
W
E
B
S
I
T
E

&

S
O
C
I
A
L
Crowdsourcing: fundraising creative ideas and new online partners
Kickstarter.com & Indiegogo.com: global fundraising sites. The
user proposes a project and the budget needed to nance it, and
donations are made online.
Stylyt: platform for collecting fashion designs and offers. Financed
and used by major brands to nd new ideas and inuence consumers
Stitch Collective: brand of American bags that launches a design
contest. Anyone can register and enter their designs online.
The designs most voted on the site and on Twitter are then produced.
Websites:
Hypebeast.com
Designhotel.com
Anothermag.com
Dazedigital.com
Tablethotel.com
Social networks: dynamic and interactive social networks
Spotify: social network dedicated to music. Online it is
possible to share and listen.
Sina Weiboo: chinese microblogging website. More than
300 million users. Recently they have started a mainstream
advertising campaign for big fashion brands
Weixin: vocal Instant message service directly controlled
from smartphones.
Shake: social network where its possible to send messages
and emoticons as vibrations and sounds.
WeilingDi: instant message service mainly used by people
working in the web world
O.Cn: 3D interactive social network where it is possible to
visualize major chinese cities and visiting them virtually
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
What they love:
They love design and technological
objects with innovative features.
Especially special editions.
auto
- 500 by Gucci
- Lamborghini egoista
- Range Rover
watches
- Rado
- Tag heuer
- Richard mille
Technological and Minimal
3D Design
Sport Contamination
Lamborghini Egoista
Xiao Zi Yang jewels
Range Rover Evoque
Nike Lunar
Car Shoe for Lamborghini
- Car design and fashion collaborations
- Lamborghini 50th anniversary collection
- Lamborghini Capsule Car Shoe Collection
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
50 Lamborghini
Contemporary Moroso Design
3D Design Studio
Massimo Iosa Ghini
M
U
S
I
C
Contemporary
electronic music
Ellen Allien
Royksopp,
Norwegian
electronic group
B
R
A
N
D
S
Luxury
Commerciali
Unisex
Contemporary and Metropolitan look
Functional and Innovative
COLLECTION
PLANNING
ANTONIO MARRAS
EMPORIO ARMANI
Trend positioning according to the outsole
Metropolitan theme, young and very cool
The functionality of the metropolitan use mainly comes from strong and sturdy
rubber soles, for both men and women. It is a theme dominated by hybrid
products. An extremely androgynous theme, which can also be seen in the
womens dressy shoes with voluminous and important shapes,
sturdy and comfortable heels and solid soles.
For women, ergonomic rubber soles combined with leather
uppers for a minimal look and geometric cuts. The sports world
includes minimal and designer sneakers dominated by black and white, as
well as multi-coloured graphics reinterpreted with technical
materials and optical effects.
S
H
O
E
S
SNEAKERS
W
O
M
E
N
M
E
N
HYBRID
DRESSY
ANTONIO MARRAS KENNETH COLE
ISSEY MIYAKE
KRIS VAN ASSCHE
dressy: bold boots
catwalk products - iconic brands
K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
O
L
E
K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
O
L
E
K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
O
L
E
3
.
1

P
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I
L
L
I
P

L
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J
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N
A
.
T
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E
O
K
E
N
N
E
T
H

C
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L
E
C
O
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T
U
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E

N
A
T
I
O
N
A
L
J
I
L

S
A
N
D
E
R
hybrid woman
dressy: booties
catwalk products - iconic brands
products from windows - exhibitions - people
VIC MATIE OXS
FLY LONDON
VIC
P
I
N
K
O
A
N
T
O
N
I
O

M
A
R
R
A
S
CAMPER
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

L
O
N
D
O
N
hybrid man: low cut
hybrid man: mid cut
products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
Y
-
3
S
A
L
V
A
T
O
R
E

F
E
R
R
A
G
A
M
O
D
I
O
R
I
S
S
E
Y

M
I
Y
A
K
E
CAMPER
VOILE BLANCHE
I
S
S
E
Y

M
I
Y
A
K
E
I
S
S
E
Y

M
I
Y
A
K
E
man leather sneakers
catwalk products - iconic brands
YELLOW CAB
TATOOSH HUNTER
HUNTER
K
R
I
S

V
A
N

A
S
S
C
H
E
O
N
I
T
S
U
K
A

T
I
G
E
R
K
R
I
S

V
A
N

A
S
S
C
H
E
K
R
I
S

V
A
N

A
S
S
C
H
E
unisex: rainy boots
products from exhibitions
man graphic sneakers
products from exhibitions - people - iconic brands
EASTPAK MOMO DESIGN
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

N
E
W

Y
O
R
K
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

N
E
W

Y
O
R
K
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

N
E
W

Y
O
R
K
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

M
I
L
A
N
ADIDAS SLVR PIRELLI PZERO
Trend positioning according to material
Unisex and metropolitan use for the world of bags:
On the one hand, strong leather with geometric constructions
and one-colour approach, unisex, formal but cool.
On the other hand, use of more casual/innovative materials and more
economical materials with a daring touch of contrasting colours.
Rigid structures and geometric cuts featuring large volumes that
have been made minimal by a clean and simple approach and by the one-colour
approach in the world of leather/fake leather.
The BACKPACK plays a fundamental role in both one-colour leather and
innovative materials with a hi-tech look.
B
A
G
S
MIX
LEATHER
TEXTILE /NEW
MATERIALS
W
O
M
E
N
M
E
N
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
ISSEY MIYAKE
GUCCI
MOLESKINE
backpack high tech /metropolitan unisex
catwalk products - iconic brands
E
M
P
O
R
I
O

A
R
M
A
N
I
W
O
O
Y
O
U
N
G
M
I
F
R
A
N
K
I
E

M
O
R
E
L
L
O
D
A
M
I
R

D
O
M
A
leather: geometric shapes
leather: clean,one colour
products from exhibitions - windows - people
catwalk products - iconic brands
M
A
N
D
A
R
I
N
A

D
U
C
K
TORY BURCH
M
O
L
E
S
K
I
N
E
PRADA
J
I
L

S
A
N
D
E
R
S
A
L
V
A
T
O
R
E

F
E
R
R
A
G
A
M
O
G
E
N
N
Y

M
O
D
A
A
L
E
X
A
N
D
E
R

W
A
N
G
leather: clean,one colour - unisex
catwalk products - iconic brands
K
R
I
S

V
A
N

A
S
S
C
H
E
G
U
C
C
I
F
E
N
D
I
M
A
R
N
I
metropolitan unisex
products from exhibitions - people
MANDARINA DUCK
M
H

W
A
Y
PORTER
YS MANDARINA DUCK
SKETCHES
bold dressy
1
1
1
1
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
C
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I
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R
I
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O

T
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C
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O
L
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S
C
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I
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I
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A
L
Y
1
1
APLASA
1
heel hybrid woman
1
1
V
I
B
R
A
M
1
1
1
VIBRAM
dressy boots
1
2
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
M
A
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T
R
O
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C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
2
1
1
dressy boots
1
A
S
O
L
T
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X
1
atform hybrid woman
2
1 2
O
F
F
I
C
I
N
A

D
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L
L
E

P
E
L
L
I
M
E
N
O
N
I
S
E
G
R
E

&

S
C
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P
P
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VIBRAM
2
2
1
1
2
formal hybrid
1
1
D
I
M
A
R

C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
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N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
1
1
2
APLASA
contemporary hybrid man
2 1
D
I
M
A
R

C
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N
C
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R
I
A
C
H
I
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I
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1
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Y
2
2
1
1
2
E
.
M
.

C
O
M
P
A
N
Y
fashion hybrid man
C
E
R
T
A
L
D
E
S
E
1
1
D
I
M
A
R

C
O
N
C
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R
I
A
VIBRAM
2
1
1
1
fashion hybrid man
2
1
1
2
S
C
H
M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
C
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I
O
R
I
N
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C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
A
S
O
L
T
E
X
VIBRAM
1
2
2
leather sneakers
M
A
S
T
R
O
T
T
O

C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
O
F
F
I
C
I
N
A

D
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L
L
E

P
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L
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I
C
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I
O
R
I
N
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C
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N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
1
2
2
1
1
man graphic sneakers
2
1
M
A
S
T
R
O
T
T
O

C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
VIBRAM
1 2
D
I
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A
R

C
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C
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I
A
C
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I
O
R
I
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C
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L
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Y
2
1
1
2
man graphic sneakers
A
S
O
L
T
E
X
A
S
O
L
T
E
X
D
I
M
A
R

C
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N
C
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R
I
A
D
I
M
A
R

C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
1
2
VIBRAM
3
1
2
3
high tech backpack / metropolitan use
1
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
M
A
S
T
R
O
T
T
O

C
O
N
C
E
R
I
A
M
O
R
O

M
I
N
U
T
E
R
I
E
1
2
2
1
leather geometric shapes
leather geometric shapes
1
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
leather: clean - unisex
C
H
I
O
R
I
N
O

T
E
C
H
N
O
L
O
G
Y
1
1
Rock the grunge
the gourmet
mash-up
r
o
c
k

t
h
e

g
r
u
n
g
e

a
s
i
a
n

o
w
american
CHAOS TO
COUTURE
Minimal + Rock
Anarchy + Elegance
SUBVERSIVE +
CLASSIC ENGLISH
Minimal Rock + Californian Grunge
Austerity mixed to Perversion
SOCIALITE
+ SOCIABLE
Rigour and Condence
Wild and Severe
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

P
A
R
I
S
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

P
A
R
I
S
PANTONE

19-1101 TPX
PANTONE

18-4120 TPX
PANTONE

17-4405 TPX
PANTONE

18-0201 TPX
PANTONE

19-6311 TPX
PANTONE

18-0627 TPX
PANTONE

18-1555 TPX
Concept
The new rock is subversive because it combines wild and
rebellious grunge with the minimalism of
English classics.
A style direction taken by the new generation of designers led by Hedi
Slimane, Raf Simons, Givenchy, Balmain. Starting from typical icons of the
English rock world, strict and minimal, the new rock becomes
elegant and classical, austere and severe.
Colours
Tar black is rock. Leather brown is grunge, blood-
red English, psychedelic blue is rock. Tones darken in
all the colour palettes, taking on mirror, reective, polished, velvety,
shaded effects.
Materials
The rock+grunge+minimal+English classic ingredients are expressed
in a mixture of leather treatments: destroyed +
brushed + patent, craquelet + lled + pony, shaved + waxed -
laser processes. Perforated effects on thin rigid hide. Fluid nappa.
Crocodile of raised scales. Rock version sh skin. Brushed, varnished
and reective in tones and the consistency of tar. Worn and torn
effects. Crusts moulded with dry wax and powdery shades.
Rock the grunge
PANTONE

19-1101 TPX
PANTONE

18-4120 TPX
PANTONE

17-4405 TPX
PANTONE

18-0201 TPX
PANTONE

19-6311 TPX
PANTONE

18-0627 TPX
PANTONE

18-1555 TPX
PANTONE

and PANTONE Textile COLOUR System

TM
are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identied textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Elegance and Rock
Rock has always been outside the box, turning high
street concepts of classic and trendyconcepts
on their head, using easy elements. Models in
a rock spirit can change the rules of styles and
circumstances: simple and nonconformist, classical
and wild, in dressy versions. Casuals become
formal classics, even like biker boots for Him and
Her. Elegant models interpreted in rough workwear
materials and details. A revolution in the big French
luxury brands, California version, that international
buyers are going for.
Modern rebels of understated elegance.
D
A
V
I
D

B
O
W
I
E

E
X
H
I
B
I
T
I
O
N

-

V
&
A

L
O
N
D
O
N
F
L
O
R
I
P
A

C
L
U
B
MOODBOARD
minimal + rock
anarchy + elegance
subversive + classic english
minimal rock + californian grunge
socialite + extrovert
rigour + confdence
SHOES-WOMEN:
strong contrasts,
aggressive
appearance,
very soft hand,
dry touch
BAGS-WOMEN:
rigid and polished,
satin and buffed
SHOES-MEN:
classic granes leather,
aggressive brushoff
BAGS-MEN:
worn look adopts a
sophisticated taste,
with decor prints
and soft touch
LEATHER: laser
cuts decorations,
deformed
geometries,
interrupted
perpendicular
and radial stripes
LEATHER: animal coats
patterns, worn and used
look with wide granes
HEELS: all
natural aspect
of wood,
imperfect and
unespected
wild look
TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS:
knitwear patterns
borrowed from
home textile and
country lifestyle
ACCESSORIES
M
O
R
O

M
I
N
U
T
E
R
I
E
E
.
M
.

C
O
M
P
A
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Y
V
A
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T
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.
M
.

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P
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L
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I

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.
D
.
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.
LEATHER
M
.
P
.
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.

C
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F
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K
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B
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A

A
C
C
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S
S
O
R
I
M
O
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T
I

&

M
O
N
T
I
P
I

&

P
I

C
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N
C
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I
A
C
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F
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A
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M
A
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C
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A
D
I
M
A
R

C
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N
C
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R
I
A
SOLES
F
I
N
I
S
H
I
N
G

b
y

K
E
N
D
A

F
A
R
B
E
N

-

S
O
L
E

C
U
O
I
O

D
I

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S
C
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N
A
F
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N
I
S
H
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G

b
y

K
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N
D
A

F
A
R
B
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N

-

S
O
L
E

C
U
O
I
O

D
I

T
O
S
C
A
N
A
V
I
B
R
A
M
V
I
B
R
A
M
D
A
V
O
S
D
A
V
O
S
TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS
S
C
H
M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
S
C
H
M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
S
C
H
M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
C
.
F
T
.

C
R
E
S
P
I

F
I
L
I
T
E
S
S
U
T
I
T
E
S
S
I
T
U
R
A

A
T
T
I
L
I
O

I
M
P
E
R
I
A
L
I
S
C
H
M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
T
E
S
S
I
T
U
R
A

A
T
T
I
L
I
O

I
M
P
E
R
I
A
L
I
CONSUMER
PROFILE
Brick Lane, London
Chelsea, New York
Seattle
Friedrichshain, Berlin
Moscow
Beijing 798
Beirut
Amsterdam
Dublin
Venice Beach, Los Angeles
Xiamen
W
H
E
R
E

T
H
E
Y

L
I
V
E
They live in cities that
are very free, with a
rebellious spirit.
Modern and alternative.
Classic and subversive.
Vintage and rock
Bansky
grafti in
Brick Lane,
London
Friedrichshain, Berlin.
Post-industrial grafti art
798 artistic space
in Beijing, famous
for unconventional
exhibitions
F
R
E
E

T
I
M
E
Rock exhibitions and events
Punk Stories, video edited by US Vogue
They love the world of music, stylish and alternative
clubs. They follow classic rock idols
Chaos to Couture: an exhibition that celebrates
the English punk style with photographic archives
and collections by famous designers. An exhibition
that caused a sensation. At the Metropolitan
Museum of New York
David Bowie: At the V&A in London, a retrospective
of the master of transformation, a rock icon
Clubs and bars that have made the history of rock
Alternative clubs in bohemian districts
Crobar Camden London. Best club to listen to
heavy metal
Bar Psy Tokyo. Club dedicated to rock and punk music
CBGBs in Chelsea New York. A temple of rock music
Chaos to Couture
Crobar
David Bowie
CBGB
Psy
Thrift stores
Concept stores with post-
industrial settings
Alternative libraries such as
Eslite in Taiwan
Alternative environments, such
as industrial warehouses, car
parks, underground rooms
in the streets of city suburbs.
Music and visual displays are
always united.
R
E
T
A
I
L
Buffalo Exchange
D Park Beijing House
- Humana, second-hand
shop in Friedrichshain, Berlin.
Mix of elements
- Buffalo Exchange, New
York. Famous rock clothing store
- D Park Beijing House.
A concept store situated on the
grounds of a former power plant
in Beijing.
Humana
O
P
I
N
I
O
N

L
E
A
D
E
R
S
David Bowie
Courtney Love.
Grunge icon
Peter Marino.
Controversial
designer
Marilyn Manson.
Transgressive rock icon
Hedi Slimane.
Creative
Director at Saint
Laurent Paris
O
P
I
N
I
O
N

L
E
A
D
E
R
S

i
c
o
n
e

d
e
l

r
o
c
k
Rock icons who marked the
beginning of the rebel culture.
O
P
I
N
I
O
N

L
E
A
D
E
R
S

f
r
o
m

A
s
i
a
Qin Hai Lu
Jay Chou
Jay Chou: taiwanese father
of Chinese hip-hop
Qin Hai Lu: famous
and successful Chinese
actress and blogger
Patti Smith
Lou Reed
Keith Richards
Slash (Guns n Roses)
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
Fast cars and sports cars
Heavy motorcycles
Strong perfumes
cars & motorcycles:
- Corvette
- Mustang
- Ducati Monster
perfumes:
- Viva Rock John Richmond
- Rock n Rose Valentino
Unconventional jewellery
Aged and alternative design
jewellery & accessories
- Nick Von K
- Aod
Viva Rock.
John Richmond
Mustang
Ducati Monster
W
E
B
S
I
T
E

&

S
O
C
I
A
L
Websites:
E-commerce sites that sell rock and punk clothing
Rock music blogs
Hedislimane.com/rockdiary: a series of portraits of the
biggest rock star rebels
Byronesque.com: online magazine that talks about the
worlds of rock and fashion
Rockmode.com: blog dedicated to news on rock and
punk styles
Grindstore.com: e-commerce dedicated to the sale of
CDs, gadgets and rock clothing
Metalheads.clothing-underground.com: website with
forums offering advice on the best rock-style brands
M
U
S
I
C
Rock music with electronic inuences
German metal and industrial music
Contemporary electronic music
- The Ting Tings: band that
combines electronic sounds with a
rock base
- Daft Punk: new icons by Hedi
Slimane
- Muse, English contemporary rock
band
- Rammstein: leader of German
industrial metal music, known for its
strong and aggressive sounds
- The Killers: simple sounds with
great guitar effects. Protest lyrics
Muse
Daft Punk
The Killers
Rammstein
The Ting Tings band
Luxury
Commerciali
B
R
A
N
D
S
Minimal Rock
Elegant
Anarchy
COLLECTION
PLANNING
ETRO JOHN RICHMOND
Trend positioning according to the outsole
Rock interpreted in a minimal, sophisticated and elegant way.
The world of footwear is dominated by dressy products for both men and women.
For women: stiletto heels on a shoe that is both aggressive and minimal,
elongated toes and metallic elements embellish the essential cuts for a more
eye-catching product. Ankle and high boots with a single denominator, streamlined and
tight-tting shapes for a sexy look and metallic elements that catch the attention
and create a more contemporary decor.
For men: English classic meets rock, mixing classic shapes and iconic models such as
military boots, chelseas, oxfords, moccasins with rock colours and details.
S
H
O
E
S
SNEAKERS
W
O
M
E
N
M
E
N
HYBRID
DRESSY
ETRO YVES SAINT LAURENT
MOSCHINO
DIESEL
stilettos killer
minimal/elegant rock
catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
S
P
O
R
T
M
A
X
V
E
R
S
A
C
E
E
T
R
O
S
A
L
V
A
T
O
R
E

F
E
R
R
A
G
A
M
O
N
A
R
C
I
S
O

R
O
D
R
I
G
U
E
Z
B
L
U
M
A
R
I
N
E
P
R
O
E
N
Z
A

S
C
H
O
U
L
E
R
V
E
R
S
A
C
E
metal
metal & fur
catwalk products - iconic brands
products from exhibitions
UNITED NUDE LTD
UNITED NUDE LTD
SAM EDELMAN
DAINO SHOES
J
O

N
O

F
U
I
H
E
R
V
E

L
E
G
E
R
V
E
R
S
A
C
E
V
E
R
S
A
C
E
V
E
R
S
A
C
E
at rock
ankle & clean pointed booties
catwalk products - iconic brands
products from exhibitions - catwalk products
SCHUTZ
T
I
M

K
I
M
U
R
T
R
U
S
S
A
R
D
I
Z
E
R
O

E

M
A
R
I
A

C
O
R
N
E
J
O
Z
E
R
O

E

M
A
R
I
A

C
O
R
N
E
J
O
G
A
B
R
I
E
L
E

C
O
L
A
N
G
E
L
O
E
M
P
O
R
I
O

A
R
M
A
N
I
C
H
A
N
E
L
M
I
S
S
O
N
I
H
E
L
M
U
T

L
A
N
G
C
H
A
N
E
L
B
E
L
S
T
A
F
F
pointed high boots
catwalk products - iconic brands
I
S
A
B
E
L
L
A

Z
O
B
O
L
I
M
O
S
C
H
I
N
O
J
O
H
N

R
I
C
H
M
O
N
D
Y
V
E
S

S
A
I
N
T

L
A
U
R
E
N
T
Y
V
E
S

S
A
I
N
T

L
A
U
R
E
N
T
H
E
L
M
U
T

L
A
N
G
P
A
L
L
A
D
I
U
M
military boots tight tting
heavy boots
catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
pointed low lace: derby, oxford
laced up
products from fairs exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
C
O
S
T
U
M
E

N
A
T
I
O
N
A
L
P
H
I
L
I
P
P

P
L
E
I
N
B
U
R
B
E
R
R
Y
A
R
T

C
O
M
E
S

F
I
R
S
T

-

P
I
T
T
I

I
M
M
A
G
I
N
E

F
L
O
R
E
N
C
E
M
O
S
C
H
I
N
O
C
A
R
V
E
N
G
U
I
D
I
chelsea pointed boot
catwalk products - exhibitions products
VALENTINO
I
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B
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R
G
3
.
1

P
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I
L
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Trend positioning according to material
Leather dominates, preferably in black, with metallic iconic rock details.
Therefore, clean lines, padding with seams and large contrasting
metallic zips inspired by biker jackets.
B
A
G
S
MIX
LEATHER
TEXTILE /NEW
MATERIALS
W
O
M
E
N
M
E
N
JOHN RICHMOND
RALPH LAUREN
pochette/clutch
minimal men
catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
R
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C
C
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B
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O
C
C
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N

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D
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A

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A
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L
C
H
A
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L
metal: zip/chain
catwalk products - iconic brands
R
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P
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N
G
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I
A
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F
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A
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C
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F
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B
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B
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SKETCHES
stilettos killers
1
1
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.
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C
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P
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1
1
stilettos killers
1
1
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.
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.

C
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P
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E
S
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1
1
minimal / elegant rock
1
1
1
D
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.
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B
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I
1
1
1
metal
1
1
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A

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1
1
metal
1
1
C
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C
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D
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1
metal & fur
1
1
M
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I

&

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M
A
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R
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O

C
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N
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1
1
fashion fur
1
1
M
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Y
1
1
at rock
1
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&

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C
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M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
1
1
1
1
ankle & clean pointed booties
1
1
M
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L
I
S
S
A
L
A
N
Z
I

N
A
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T
R
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F
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O
1
1
tight tting
1
D
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I
A
1
S
C
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M
I
D

I
T
A
L
Y
1
1
pointed high boots
1
1
D
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&

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1
1
pointed high boots
1
P
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&

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A
1
chelsea pointed boots
1
1
1
M
A
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C
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N
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I
A
1
1
VIBRAM
A
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L
I
O

I
M
P
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R
I
A
L
I

T
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S
S
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A
1
pointed low lace
1
1
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R
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O

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1
1
1
1
heavy boots
1
1
VIBRAM
1
1
1
1
VIBRAM
A
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pochette / clutch
1
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metal: zip / chain
1
C
.
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zip / chain man
1
A
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1
The gourmet
the gourmet
mash-up
r
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g
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a
s
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o
w
american
CLASSIC + CITY
+ COUNTRY
Bohemien + Hypster
Connosseur + Character
ICONS OF CLASSIC
+ MADE IN
Innovative + Old Taste
Wilderness + Savoir Faire
DECONSTRUCTED
+ RELAXED
Comfort Travel
Pleasure
S
T
R
E
E
T

F
A
S
H
I
O
N

-

M
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L
A
N
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T

F
A
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H
I
O
N

-

M
I
L
A
N
PANTONE

18-1048 TPX
PANTONE

19-1656 TPX
PANTONE

18-3945 TPX
PANTONE

18-1250 TPX
PANTONE

16-0730 TPX
PANTONE

16-1150 TPX
PANTONE

16-1450 TPX
PANTONE

16-1142 TPX
Concept
A gourmet, as we know, is a person of cultivated tastes who
demands the enjoyment of good food and drink. The gourmet of fashion,
like that of food, is a connoisseur, a person who has the foundation of
classical style, then carried through to Italian country and English heritage.
As for food, the passion for accessories is dened by a search for
tastes and avours that are intense, sharp, full
bodied. A lifestyle that combines a passion for the authentic, genuine,
typical of a place or a style.
Colours
The chromatic effects form a range of browns, fresh and
new. These can verge on red, burnt orange, indigo blue, military
green, woodland earth and bark of scented trees. The shades can vary
according to dyes and treatments of full bodied leathers.
Materials
Real leather, authentic and genuine, on which to try out
experimental treatments and invent new nishes, chromatic
effects and grains. Craftsmanship and industry meet in the
natural world to experiment with shaving, abrasion, creams and waxes
of new generation but of organic origin. Brushed, crackled, distressed.
Shaved and polished pony. Precious reptiles. Anaconda and alligator
treated with softening oils and waxes. Thick and luminous velvets. Wool,
cashmere and Shetland materials. Colour-dipped crust.
The gourmet
PANTONE

18-1048 TPX
PANTONE

19-1656 TPX
PANTONE

18-3945 TPX
PANTONE

18-1250 TPX
PANTONE

16-0730 TPX
PANTONE

16-1150 TPX
PANTONE

16-1450 TPX
PANTONE

16-1142 TPX
PANTONE

and PANTONE Textile COLOUR System

TM
are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identied textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Pleasure of authenticity
Its about the pleasure of buying a well-
made product with timeless design, listen to
storytelling, enjoy the taste as a food, being
able to recognize quality, repairing and properly
caring for your wardrobe.
A market segment in enormous expansion
with consumers looking for something special
that offers ancient avours in a modern key.
Between casual and classic, outdoor and
vintage, country and comfy travel. Natural and
handmade. Discovering the authenticity of
Made in...Italy, USA, China, Thailand....
Extravagance and decor in Pop style
L
F

U
N
I
S
E
X

M
O
O
D
T
O
P
S
H
O
P

W
I
N
D
O
W
S

-

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A

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T
I
C
E
L
L
I
MOODBOARD
bohemien + hypster
connosseur + character
classic + city + country
deconstructed + relaxed
icons of classic + made in
comfort travel + pleasure
SHOES-WOMEN:
aristocratic feeling,
laser cuts decor,
trimmings, velvet
and leather carving
BAGS-WOMEN:
uncontrived
combination
of naturalness
and rigour,
soft supple and
drum dyed
leather
SHOES-MEN:
a pleasent
balance of rened
leather, precious
reptiles and
sublime skins
BAGS-MEN: soft calf
and dusty surfaces,
sophisticated worn look
ACCESSORIES: craft
abilities borrowed from
horsemanship tradition, from
Argentina to Great Britain
LEATHER: alligator
imitation, exotic
reptiles, wood bark
and old furniture
HEELS AND
SOLES:
stripes and
geometries,
stitchings and
inlays
TEXTILE/
SYNTHETICS:
damask and
brocade, coated
synthetics with
pleating, prints
and laser cuts
ACCESSORIES
L
A
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T
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G
I
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B
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LEATHER
P
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C
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&

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T
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S
O
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C
A
C
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T
A
L
D
E
S
E
SOLES
V
I
B
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V
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B
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A
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F
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D
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O
S
TEXTILE/SYNTHETICS
C
.
F
T
.

C
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P
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I
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S
S
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I
CONSUMER
PROFILE
W
H
E
R
E

T
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E
Y

L
I
V
E
Paris, the
Marais quarter
Paris happening, social moments
Milan: Navigli, Corso Garibaldi
Turin
Rome
Paris: Marais
Tokyo: Ebisu
Copenhagen
They live in Europe or Japan;
they are consumers of the
good, beautiful and tasteful.
They love stories relating to the
old quarters of the city.
Milan. Appetizers in
Navigli. Eating cheap
and genuine food
Milan, Arco della Pace, vintage photo with tram
F
R
E
E

T
I
M
E
Rong Made in Hanghzhou
Exhibition of 13 designers who reinterpret bamboo. First
exhibition of a series that will last 5 years. A material for each
year. 2013 is the year of the bamboo. At the Milan Triennale
8 Ties Herms project. Video
installation by Miguel Chevallier. New
graphic patterns for ties. Presented in
Milan and Mexico City
Open Factories 2013.
Exhibitions of industrial archaeology
in Piedmont, in discovery of Italian
craftsmanship and industry
A taste of China.
Contemporary heritage furniture.
Milan Design Week 2013
8 Ties Herms project
Open Factories 2013
Rong made in Hanghzhou
A taste of China
Events where food becomes a new
art form
- Artisans of avours mixed with a
contemporary taste
- Food festivals and events open to the public
- Food is like clothes, gadgets, shoes and
leather goods
- Look for old-fashioned avours, authentic,
with an intense character
- Eataly, good food supermarket in two
locations: Turin and New York
- Expo Days in Milan, rst tranche of events
dedicated to Italian food
- Milan Food Week
- Cruise of Taste by Silversea, a cooking
school with excellent Italian culinary specialities
- Food tasting street events
- Vintage Design and Gourmet in Mexico City
- Wine tasting in the best Italian, French and
Argentine wineries
Franciacorta Wine Festival,
Piedmont, Italy
F
R
E
E

T
I
M
E
Jazz Brunch -
Wynn Resort
Las Vegas.
Music and food
for brunch
Winery-Sculpture by Arnaldo
Pomodoro in Umbria, Italy
Cracco and Oldani, two cooking
stars who prepare good cheap food.
Professional Food Event
O
P
I
N
I
O
N

L
E
A
D
E
R
S
Chef and Gourmets
Easy Life
Marina Abramovich,
Art Gourmet
R
E
T
A
I
L
Small shops and stores hidden
in the oldest quarters of the city.
Small multi-brand stores that host
musical, art and literature events.
Condential Sales, special sales
with discounts at the Fashion
District outlets.
They like places such as Made store
in the Asiatique area in Bangkok
Neighbourhoods where
they shop:
- Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
- La Roma, Mexico City
- Les Marais, Paris
- Corso Garibaldi, Milan
- Charlotteburg, Berlin
- Notting Hill, London
Bif Milan
San Carlo 1930 Turin
Matrix Basel Design & Fashion
Fangsuo Commune, Guanzhou
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
bikes:
- Pillen Swedish-style bikes
- Brooks bikes
cameras:
- Hasselblad
- Leica M9 P by Herms
magazines:
- The Heritage Post
Objects with old shapes updated in a modern key
Classic bikes and public transport
Analog cameras
Objects in leather tanned with wine techniques, Piel di Vino, Tuscany
70s sofa
Pillen bike
Retro style
Leica M9 P
Hasselblad
The Heritage Post
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
Handmade design objects
in genuine leather
Heritage design, European
and Latin American designs
of the 50s and 60s
Chess and checkers
Handmade fabrics
Practical travel bags with a
retro look
Craftica Fendi project
food design:
- Genuine food and authentic
avours
- Food design and artistry
- Jams and products by
Monica Patino, Mexico
- Book Modern Art Dessert
by Caitlin Friedman
W
H
A
T

T
H
E
Y

L
O
V
E
Modern Art of Dessert
Vintage Design & Gourmet,
Mexico City
Jams by Marta Patino
Blend caf, Mexico City
W
E
B
S
I
T
E

&

S
O
C
I
A
L
Website & Social networks:
Cooking sites
Sites offering restaurant tips
Sites on food and wine activities
Museodelgusto.com
A museum of taste, a place to discover the tastes and avours of
Piedmont
Groupon.com
Site dedicated to discounts on tastings, lunches, dinners and stays
in Italy and abroad
Eataly.com
Food Retail with Italian excellence. Very famous in the United States
Tripadvisor
Social network with reviews of international hotels and restaurants.
The platform also allows making online bookings
Vinix.com
Social network dedicated to wine
Lets Lunch
Site and App dedicated to restaurants to get discounts and tips
M
U
S
I
C
Classic contemporary music
Giovanni Allevi: young Italian
composer. Mix of different elements
with sophisticated musicality
Ludovico Einaudi: modern pianist
who combines classic melodies with
articial sounds
Foodblogging:
DeliciousDays
Blog created in Munich
by an Italian, which is
dedicated to food recipes
and events in German and
the world
Ms. Adventures in Italy
Blog dedicated to an
American girls cooking
travels, especially in Italy
Alegria in Mexico
Blog by Ruth Alegria, chef
who organises food tours in
Mexico
Red Cook
Blog dedicated to the art
of homemade Chinese
cooking. The most popular
food blog in the world
B
L
O
G
S
Giovanni AllevI
Ludovico Einaudi
B
R
A
N
D
SLuxury
Commerciali
COLLECTION
PLANNING
Timeless Design
Innovative Restyling of an old taste
CORNELIANI CHLOE
Trend positioning according to the outsole
Timeless design means timeless classics with a modern twist for men and women, for a
contemporary look. Bespoke look and extreme attention to detail in accordance with the
best handcrafted tradition.
For women: sinuous and retro shapes made with quality leather, lots of warm colours
and the use of leather as the dominating material and colour. We are talking about dressy
shoes with light platforms and square comfortable heels for everyday use. The latest
trends emerging from the catwalks: uppers completely or partially made of fur or pony.
For men: timeless classic models restyled with the use of coloured rubber soles and
handcrafted colour treatments.
SNEAKERS: for men and women, which never touch the world of super sports; in particular,
we are talking about a casual and more lifestyle sneaker, which sees the predominant
use of tapered shapes and the nest Italian materials.
S
H
O
E
S
SNEAKERS
W
O
M
E
N
M
E
N
HYBRID
DRESSY
CHLOE
EL CAMPERO
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
SPERRY TOP SIDER
FRATELLI ROSSETTI FRYE
fur on shoes
SI by SINELA
ANGELINE LEE
catwalk products - products from exibitions
T
O
R
Y

B
U
R
C
H
M
A
R
N
I
F
E
N
D
I
CHLOE
BALLY
winter: boots
EL CAMPERO ELISABETTA NERI
EL CAMPERO
products from exhibitions - iconic brands
A
G
N
E
S

B
.
dressy: ankle boot - squared heel
dressy: decorations/rich materials
FRANCOIS NAJAR
APOLOGIE
catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - iconic brands
D
K
N
Y
D
O
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womans sneakers
dressy: restyling of retr
H
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A
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B
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L
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C
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DIADORA
TOMMY HILFIGER
ROBERT CLERGERIE
products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
products from windows - exhibitions
M
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b
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M
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J
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O
B
S
M
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N
I
GRITTI
dressy man: iconic classic
the new classic
C
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products from windows - exhibitions
products from windows - exhibitions - catwalks
B
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SMITHS AMERICAN
HUDSON
NORTHERN : COBBLER
classic hybrid
new hybrid
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
MORESCHI
LACOSTE
LACOSTE TBS
products from exhibitions
products from exhibitions
DUCAL
FINALE UNLIMITED
hand coloured
new classic: colore con
tecniche artigianali
italian last man sneaker
FRYE
SPERRY TOP SIDER DIADORA
MAURO VOLPONI
H
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G
A
N
products from windows - exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands
products from windows - exhibitions
B
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Trend positioning according to material
Precious bags: leather, fur or fabric
The classic of classics: Bugatti for men and women. Bauletto,
saddle, backpack, briefcase, clutch. Small shoulder bags.
Precious bags made of high-quality leather, fur, applications.
B
A
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S
MIX
LEATHER
TEXTILE /NEW
MATERIALS
W
O
M
E
N
M
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N
CORNELIANI
TRUSSARDI
MARC BY MARC JACOBS DEREK LAM
fur on bags
retr classic shapes
LONGOBARDI prod. and distr. by
CAR.LO MANIFATTURE
catwalk products - iconic brands
catwalk products - windows
M
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D
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rich leather man bags
JOST
catwalk products - iconic brands
T
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A
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D
I
T
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S
A
R
D
I
M
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SKETCHES
1
dressy: restyling of retr
1
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1
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dressy: decorations / rich materials
1
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1
A
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1
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dressy: ankle boots
1
2
1
1
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2
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winter boots
2
1
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1
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winter boot
1
1
1
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1
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dressy: man iconic classic
1
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hybrid man
1
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hybrid man
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1
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italian last man sneakers
1
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D
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fur on bags
1
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1
M
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1
retr classic shapes
rich leather man
1
M
.
P
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.

C
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F
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1
rich leather man
1
D
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1
Ars Sutoria - Background
The Ars Sutoria magazine was founded in 1947 specically for footwear manufacturers.
Since its origin, the magazine has been produced inside the publishing ofces of the
International Technical Institute for the Footwear Industry to underline the fact that this
publishing experience is rooted in the desire to offer footwear professional contents that
are both creative and highly technical, i.e. never disconnected from the reality of the Italian
manufacturing industry. The rst issues of the magazine, which are still available for viewing
at the Milan headquarters, presented footwear ideas, concepts and designs. Our aim is to
recapture this proactive spirit.
Over the years, the Ars Sutoria magazine has become the reference point for learning about
footwear collections, materials and components. The possibility to travel around the world and
the availability of digital information in real time has allowed us to be a strategic observatory
of the most important events and trends in the international fashion world. The rational
observation of these trends allows us to offer expert opinions on what was successful in
international markets during current and past seasons, but also to formulate proposals and
incentives to help operators work on their upcoming collections.
CONTACT Subscription Department
Ars Arpel Group - Via Nievo, 33 - 20145 MILANO (Italy)
T +39 02 31912.331 F +39 02 33 611 619
subscription@arsarpel.com www.arsarpel.com
magazines
INCLUDED IN YOUR SUBSCRIPTION
international delivery
with FedEx
Ars Magazines
iPad app
Online access
to your magazines
Shipping cost included in the price
Door to door delivery in FedEx box
Tracking and signature proof
Free app from App Store
Immediate download
All your magazines always at hand
Multimedia contents
Read your magazine on line
Monthly advise of new issues
Ars Sutoria
10 ISSUES PER YEAR
ITALY

EUROPE
US / CANADA
REST OF THE WORLD
1 YEAR 2 YEARS
300 480


550 950
500 850
Arpel
4 ISSUES PER YEAR
ITALY

EUROPE
US / CANADA
REST OF THE WORLD
1 YEAR 2 YEARS
150 250


250 420
230 380
Shoe Collections
(Julia Classic, Julia Sport, Jolly, Junior)
4 ISSUES PER YEAR, PER TITLE
ITALY

EUROPE
US / CANADA
REST OF THE WORLD
1 YEAR 2 YEARS
200 320


300 520
280 480
Historical archive
Unique source of inspirations for designers of footwear and leathergoods.
More than 65 years of issues are available original magazines or
reprinted copies on demand.
Local consultation upon request.
For further information archive@arsarpel.com
online
books
Technical
Dictionary
Illustrated dictionary with
each term in ve languages
(English, Italian, Spanish,
German and French).
PRICE 120
Only Woman
& Only Man
Over 200 pages of shoes collections
presented for each season on fairs, cat-
walks, people and windows that we have
selected from our Ars Sutoria magazines.
Hard cover book to keep in your library.
One issue published for Spring Summer
and one for Autumn Winter.
ONE SEASON

TWO SEASONS
150
250
Trends Guide
Created by Ars Sutoria Research Team.
Binding book with concepts, key words, colours palette, colour combina-
tions, materials, merchandising plan and design ideas for the develop-
ment of new footwear and leathergoods collections.
Available for each season, 18 months in advance.
ONE SEASON

TWO SEASONS
500
800
arstrends.com
Best selection of images from most important cities of fashion
Shoes, bags and materials from fairs, windows, people and catwalks
Browse, organize and share images
Contact us arstrends@arstrends.com

SHOES ACCESS
BAGS ACCESS
SHOES+BAGS ACCESS
499
299
599
1 YEAR
*all subscriptions include material section
CONTACTS Mrs. Rossella Cucco
T +39 02 31912.327 school@arssutoria.com
www.arssutoria.com
school
FOOTWEAR
2D CAD SEMINAR
(optional)
During the 13 week pattern
making class in the late
afternoon (after class lessons)
we organize a seminar on 2D
CAD. The objective of the
seminar is to put in practice
the pattern making working
method learned during the
traditional class with the aid of
a CAD system.
1 week
FOOTWEAR
MANUFACTURING
PROCESSES
INTRODUCTION
A full immersion training session
to introduce our students
to the art of traditional shoe
making from the initial design,
to pattern making, to cutting,
nesting, assembling and
finishing stage of the footwear
production process giving
them some tips and tricks to
help save in cost. The foot,
last, upper, middle and bottom
components are analyzed in
depth with the help of samples
and detailed videos.
1 week
FOOTWEAR
SKETCHING
Objective of this course is
to teach students - both
experienced professionals or
beginners - the basics of shoe
sketching. During this preliminary
sketching class we do not teach
any pattern making. Even though
it is important to know that shoe
sketching benefits from a basic
technical understand of the
shoes and related components.
sketching from a real sample
technical drawing of the last
and bottom components
technical drawing of the shoe
preparation of the spec sheet
2 weeks
FOOTWEAR
COLLECTION
DEVELOPMENT
In a highly competitive
environment such as todays, it
is more important than ever to
organize collections that reach
their target customers and at
the same time are efficient
in terms of development and
manufacturing.
Marketing and trend analysis
Merchandising plan
From merchandising plan
to product design
13 weeks
PATTERN MAKING AND
TECHNICAL DESIGN
The course covers the following
topics:
a detailed preliminary
explanation of the footwear
manufacturing process
a strong basics of shoe
sketching: both designer and
technicians should develop a
strong sense of proportions
and should be able to concept
shoes as 3-dimensional objects
a covering of the pattern making
techniques in depth: training on
lasts that we have developed
during the years to better
understand how proportions
and volumes of the last are
related to the correct fitting of
the shoe. Then students start
to use production last prepared
by our specialists for the
different kind of shoes. Further
theoretical lessons on last
analysis and proportions, size
conversions, rules for pattern
grading and nesting/cutting are
organized.
a week in a shoe laboratory to
involve students in the sample
making process
a final examination that include
a a fit testing session of the
samples produced during week
12 in the laboratory.
4 weeks
PATTERN MAKING
The core of the course is pattern engineering, a topic which is
indispensable for both designers and technicians.
Topics covered during the 4 weeks course are:
hard, soft, classical and sport bags, technical-design solutions
applied to more trendy models
inserted sack type linings and stuck-on linings
theories on different construction used in production
ideas on types of leathers and reinforcing materials most widely used.
Prototypes are firstly assembled in cardboard using staples, then
with sample materials commonly used in the factories and at the
end of the program using production materials (leathers, textiles,
synthetics and fur).
BAGS
Easy to nd
www.arstrends.com
the ultimate tool for shoe & bag merchandising
browse categories
organize contents
share with your team
International Fashion Footwear Magazine
founded in 1947
editorial director
Matteo Pasca
executive editor
Enrico Martinelli
art director
Francesco Martini
editorial staff
Emanuela Cecchetti Livia Sismondi
Ars Sutoria Research Team
Orietta Pelizzari (concept research)
Elena Marradi (research assistant)
Milena Buttarello (marketing research)
materials creation
Alizee Saygun
Rana Feghaly
companies helping develop materials
KENDA FARBEN
VIBRAM
GRUPPO MASTROTTO
M.P.G. CUOIFICIO
CUOIO DI TOSCANA
DAVOS
GEA GOMMA
SHOE SERVICE
MARTAC
CARBI. PEL
public relation & communication
Mariella Catalano
mcatalano@arsarpel.com
marketing
Oscar De Franceschi (direttore commerciale)
odefranceschi@arsarpel.com
Giorgio Gori (Toscana)
ggori@arsarpel.com
Mario Gori (Marche)
mgori@arsarpel.com
Lorenzo Caresana (Lombardia-Veneto)
lcaresana@arsarpel.com
Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. In L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB Milano
Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al nu mero 234 in data 10 Giugno 1966. Direttore Responsabile Matteo Pasca
Copyright 1967 Stampa: ARS ARPEL GROUP Settimo Milanese
Tutti i diritti di propriet artistica e letteraria sono riservati.
E assolutamente vietata la riproduzione totale o parziale di articoli, disegni e fotografie, in qualsiasi forma e modo, sia analogico che digitale,
anche citandone la fonte, senza espressa autorizzazione della casa editrice. Ogni abuso sar perseguito a norma di legge
All artwork and copyrights are reserved. Total or partial reproduction is absolutely forbidden of articles, designs and
photographs in any form, either analogical or digital, even if stating the source, without the express permission of the publishing house. Any abuse will be punished by law.
Le inserzioni pubblicitarie sono pubblicate sotto la totale responsabilit del committente; la casa editrice non si assume alcuna responsabilit per il loro contenuto.
Per ogni contestazione si rimanda allindirizzo del committente pubblicato sulla sua stessa pagina pubblicitaria o, in mancanza, in fondo alla rivista.
Adverts are published at the full responsibility of the client; the publishing house does not accept any responsibility for the contents. All notifications must be referred to the advertiser,
whose address can be found either printed on his advertising page or, if this is not the case, in the end of the magazine.
Ai sensi dellarticolo 2 comma 2 del Codice di deontologia relativo al trattamento dei dati personali nellesercizio dellattivit giornalistica, si rende nota lesistenza di una banca-dati
personali di uso redazionale presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33. Gli interessati potranno rivolgersi al responsabile del trattamento dei dati Ing. Matteo Pasca presso la
sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33,
per esercitare i diritti previsti dal D.L.GS. 30 giugno 2003, n.196