ZEE unit stands for Zentrale Einschub Elektrik which translated means Central Electric Module.

The ZEE unit is the 600cc version of the SAM unit. It carries the fuses in very
much the same way but the relays are all external so can be swapped over.

Where the 700cc SAM unit is one part, the ZEE unit comprises of 3 sections.

Fuses, OBD and partial relay holder.

ZEE insert module that controls the electronics.
Secondary fuse and relay box located under the seat.


Removing And Opening The ZEE Unit

The main ZEE connector (outlined red), if your car is doing strange
things, check this isn't loose.



The ZEE insert slides out of the side.



The insert fully removed. Circled in yellow is the small speaker that
makes all the beeping noises.



Surrounding the unit are plastic tabs, these are easy to unclip.



With all of the clips undone you can remove the top to reveal the
cicuit board.



This is as far as you can get with viewing the ZEE insert, the rear
plastic housing
cannot be removed without damaging something. Highlighted in blue
is the outline of
relays L and M which are located on the other side of the ZEE insert
circuit board.
These cannot be removed or changed unlike the other relays.



Main Fuse And Relay Holder

Located under the dashboard. The fuse ratings and layout can be found here.



From 16/11/1999
Relay Coupe Function
A Front fog lights
B Boot solenoid
C Rear wiper interval
D Horn
E Relief for igntion, heater and windows
F Rear window heater
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval
L Central locking (inside ZEE unit)
M Central locking (inside ZEE unit)


Relay Cabrio Function
A Front fog lights
B Soft top open
C Soft top close
D Horn
E Relief for igntion, heater and windows
F Boot solenoid
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval
L Central locking (inside ZEE unit)
M Central locking (inside ZEE unit)

Depending when your car was made, you could have hidden headlight relays or none at all., read further down.

Up to 15/11/1999


Relay Coupe Function
A Front fog lights
B Central Locking Locked
C Central Locking Open
D NA
E
Rear Hatch Remote Unlocking
F Rear window heater
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval

The wipers, horn and relays are separate from the ZEE, they are hidden behind the dash.

Headlight Relays?

This only applies to 600cc smarts made from 2002 onwards.

For some odd reason, smart decided to put the headlight relays elsewhere.
On a right hand drive smart, the relays are hidden behind the stereo.
On a left hand drive smart, the relays are behind the main instrument cluster.

If your 600cc smart was made before 2002, there were no relays for the headlights.

Main Loom Socket Wiring


A Wire Colors Connection Fuse
1 Red Green Wiper stalk
2 Grey Red Wiper stalk
3 Grey Blue Ignition position 2
4 Brown White Safety triangle +v
5 Red Green Wiper stalk
6 Blue Blower switch
7 Yellow Black Fog lamp switch
8 Black Green Lighting stalk
9 Black White Lighting stalk
12 Blue White Handbrake switch
15 Black Blue Heater booster switch
17 Yellow Green Restraint control
18 Brown Earth
19 White Grey OBD pin 1
20 Grey Green 26
21 Grey Black ATA control unit
22 Brown Blue Centre console lamp
23 Violet ATA control unit
25 Green Safety triangle AC1
26 Grey Safety triangle AC2
27 Black Red/Blue Red Safety triangle window heater
28 Blue Yellow Safety triangle lock
29 Violet Blue Safety triangle hazards


B Wire Colors Connection Fuse
31 Brown Red Instrument cluster
33 Red Green Multi connector Z50/2
34 Red Blue 10
35 White Black Instrument Cluster
37 Red White 15
38 Brown Earth

Secondary Fuse And Relay Holder

Located under the carpet underneath the left hand seat.

Wiring

Connector 1


1 Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Black Pink MEG 1.0 K5
2 Red Black Fuel pump K5
3 Red Blue Primary fuse box K2
4 Red Blue Primary fuse box K2
5 Blue MEG 1.0 K2
6 Black White MEG 1.0 K2
7 Pink Blue MEG 1.0 K2

Connector 2


2 Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Green Charcoal valve K6
2 White Yellow MEG 1.0 K4
3 Green Blue MEG 1.0 K6
4 Red Green Primary fuse box K1 + K2
5 Yellow MEG 1.0 K3 + K4
6 Red Battery K1 + K4
7 Brown Earth K1
8 Black Yellow MEG 1.0 K3 + K5

Connector 3


M Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Green Coil pack 1+2+3 K1
2 Green Injector 1+2+3 K5
3 Blue AC compressor K6
5 Blue Starter K3
6 Yellow Intercooler fan K4
7 White Wastegate valve K6

Relays
Disconnecting The 2 Connections

On the back of the connectors are slides that lock in position to hold them in place.
Slide them back out by levering them back with a screwdriver.



As the slide is pushed back it will unlatch and lift the plug off of the ECU.
If you do the top one first it gives you better access to the lower one.



Removing The ECU From The Car

Mine isn't what you normaly get. Normally you have the air box with the ECU screwed into the
side with 6 screws.
I took my air box out and replaced it with a Pipercross Viper so the ECU was moved over to
make room.

However, removal is easy. The screws are in the same positions as the pockets on a pool
table so just take the screws out and the ECU will be free to be removed from the car.



Thanks to Tony for the picture.


Relay Number Function
K1 Fuel pump
K2 Auto transmission
K3 Main relay
K4 Intercooler fan
K5 Starter motor
K6 A/C Compressor


Fuse Rating
1 15 Amps
2 10 Amps
3 15 Amps
4 10 Amps

Important

Adding a starter button does decrease your security a little but as you still have to
insert
the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 before it will work, the risk is
minimal.
It is of paramount importance that the smart is locked in reverse and the doors
locked
using the remote fob every time you exit the vehicle. This activates the
immobiliser.

Background Info

The engine starter button was made popular by cars such as the Honda S2000
and, as it is
with coveted items, they're soon copied and added to other cars. The smart is no
different.

Typing 'starter button' into Ebay will bring up a host of universal kits,
all of which are perfectly usable in a smart and are very easy to fit.

Smart Starter Button History

Brabus

Apart from DIY retro-fitted third party versions, the first proper start button was
released
in one of the Brabus Roadster models. The button sat in the top of the gearknob.
The key still had to be inserted into the the ignition and turned to position 1 for it
to work.

It is possible to retro-fit the Brabus starter button into a lower spec Roadster and
the
Fortwo/City Coupe. The SE Drive (electronic gear change box) contained all the
necessary
electrics so you just have to swap them over and add the appropriate gear knob.

The drawback to this design is it's a bit poncy and the total price is astounding

MDC (Misterdotcom)

MDC soon came along with a full ignition replacement starter button. Made from aluminium,
the quality and style was good plus the two colour LED indicates what the starter unit is doing at
the time. Retailing at 149 Euros, it's half the price of the Brabus system but looks better and has
more to it than a switch and a relay.

I cannot recommend this system due to the severe security risk that it creates.
You don't need a key, you just disarm the immobiliser with the fob, get in and press the starter
button.
Imagine if you forgot to lock your car or you accidentally pressed the unlock button as you put
the keys away, anyone could get in your car and drive away.

Also this unit removes the gear stick locking device meaning you increase the chance
that your car can be rolled away or even rolled off down a hill by some idiots.

700cc And 999cc Ignition Info

The original ignition uses 3 wires to turn the car on and to turn the engine over.

All 3 of these wires come from the SAM unit which controls all of the electronic functions.

Red/Black from SAM plug 7, connection 3.

Red/Black to SAM plug 4, connection 1.

Grey/Blue to SAM plug 8, connection 38.

The first wire listed is the permanent power from the battery.
Second takes the power back to the SAM when the key is turned to position 2, this turns
on all the electrical systems required to start the car plus anything left turned on
previously.
The final wire sends a voltage to the SAM unit to tell it to activate the starting procedure.



Unlike most cars, the smart has a digital starter. On a standard car, the key has to be held
in the 2 position to apply power to the starter motor. On a smart it only takes a quick turn
and release. This is because the SAM/ZEE unit takes care of the starter motor switching.

Because it is digital, there are no huge currents passing through the third wire.
Not only does this mean the wire can be very thin, it means we don't need to use a relay.

A relay is a method to switch high power loads with a low power switch, because the
smart start up is low power, we only need to use a standard 12 volt switch.

Fitting Our DIY Starter Button

700cc Smart

Let's make our own for less than 20. Firstly, get on Ebay and get a starter button.
The hardest part of this How2 is deciding where to put the button.
Many of the Honda S2000 style starter buttons are desiged to fit where the cigarette
lighter goes, it is an option although removing the lighter socket isn't at all easy.

One way to access the wires we need is to remove the SE Drive, although quite easy, it
does involve removing the seats and using a special 5 spline security torx bit.
If you have seat airbags or don't have the security torx bit this can be problematic.

My solution is to access the wires elsewhere, somewhere easier.

Essentially what we will be doing is adding a switch between a permanent live and the
Grey/Blue wire going to SAM plug 8, connection 38. You don't have to take the power
from the original ignition wires, you can take a fused feed from one of the aux outlets on
the SAM unit.



600cc Ignition Info

The original ignition uses 3 wires to turn the car on and to turn the engine over.


Red from the battery.

Red/Black to an electrical distributer connection.

Grey/Blue to ZEE plug A, connection 3.

The first wire listed is the permanent power from the battery.
Second takes the power to a multi connector when the key is turned to position 2, this turns on all
the electrical systems required to start the car.
The final wire sends a voltage to the ZEE unit to tell it to activate the starting procedure.



Fitting Our DIY Starter Button

600cc Smart

The idea is the same although instead of dealing with a SAM unit, we now have a ZEE unit.

What we will be doing is adding a switch between a permanent live and the Grey/Blue wire
going to ZEE plug A, connection 3. You don't have to take the power from the original ignition
wires, there are many permanent live wires around the car including one to the stereo.



Warning

I haven't yet tested this theory so if your car bursts into flames, it's not my fault.
It will have died in the name of science. I won't ever fit a start button so I am going
to have to leave it up to you to let me know how you got on. I'll add
info if I get it.
Any Help Or Info?

This is a fresh topic to me, I have grasped the basics and had a quick read up about it.
As can be expected, remappers are very cagey about how it all works.
If you can help or add any information to this them please contact me.

Important Info

It is vital that you know four things before you start:

you can't just throw any old smart remap onto your car

you could be breaking copyright laws

this isn't the full story, it's just a starter guide to get you thinking.

someone has already followed this and killed his car.

What You Need

To remap your car (and anyone elses), you will need the following:


Windows Laptop

KWP2000 USB to K-line convertor

Remapping software

Remap code

Where To Get These Parts

Most people have a spare laptop, if you don't, just ask about.
Go to Ebay and type in KWP2000. You can buy preassembled units from 60 onwards
but I bought mine from a seller called 'tuning-concept' in January 2007. It cost me 25
and 8 p&p, he still sells them at the time of writing this.

The remapping software and actual remaps are just as easy to get although illegal.
Again on Ebay, type in 'remap files' and you will find a few people selling DVDs full of
remap files and software. The remapping software will be hacked copies, the remap files
will be someone elses property and therefore copyrighted. You have been warned.

Build Your Own KWP2000

The unit I bought from 'tuning-concept' came with a PCB and an OBD plug. You need to
supply a serial cable, 3 LEDs and a box to put it in. You'll need a soldering iron too.

This is the unit that I received, it has a USB to PC on the left and serial to OBD on the
right.



The board has spaces for 3 LEDs, almost any standard LED can be soldered in here.
Note the flat edges on the 3 circles, these will tally with flat edges on the LEDs.



D2 = Transmit
D3 = Power
D4 = Receive



The OBD plug that comes in the kit is basic but useable.



With the back off you can gain access to the pins of this budget part.
I found it easier to work on after I trimmed back some of the white plastic.



A standard serial cable with a male plug is needed, cut the other end off.



You only need to attach 4 wires, don't go by my colours.



The serial plug is numbered at the end. You should connect:


Serial plug Pin 6 to OBD pin 4 (earth)

Serial plug Pin 7 to OBD pin 5 (earth)

Serial plug Pin 9 to OBD pin 16 (12v)

Serial plug Pin 5 to OBD pin 7 (K-line)





Install it into a suitable box and the KWP2000 remapping unit is now completed.

Installing The Drivers

With the laptop running, plug the KWP2000 unit in via the USB cable. The laptop will
discover the hardware and attempt to find the drivers. Take the DVD with the remap
software on and insert it in the drive and tell the computer to search the DVD for drivers.
Eventually it will discover the USB to K-line convertor driver and install it.

Remapping The Car

Go to the car and plug the OBD lead into the unit and start up the remapping software on
the disc. You will get a list of car manufacturers on the left, click smart.
At the top you will get the option on 600cc, 700cc, CDi or 1.3 Forfour (depending on
software). Select the car you have and click connect.

There are conflicting rumours on reading from the ECU, there are some that say you can
read and save the map you have in the ECU at the time. If you can do this, I would
recommend it. If anything goes wrong you can just put your original back on.

Of course this also opens up the possibilty that you could copy your remap and install it
on another car. Please don't do this as you will be breaking the copyrights of the remap
coder.

Look through the list of remaps, they tend to be repeated a bit on the DVDs and the
information isn't very clear but EDG and CDI tells you it's for a diesel. It's quite
important that you find out what petrol engine you have, EU1, EU2, EU3 or EU4.
Some remap file CDs class them under these headings to make the choice easier.

Select a remap file and upload it to the car. Go and test out the remap.

Warning

There is a risk when you flash anything, be it a car, firmware on a new DVD drive or a
Sony PSP. I am not responsible if you kill your car. Make sure your car battery is ok,
make sure the laptop battery is ok and you have no other programs running.
Most importantly, make sure you pick a remap designed for your car.

Writing Your Own Remaps

Yes it is possible but not exactly easy. Search the internet for a remap editor.
Load up a few remaps from the DVD and compare them to the originals, this will give
you an insight as to what has changed. There are a few forums out there that will be able
to help you to locate the addresses for the rev limiter, boost levels and fueling etc.

Remember, although remaps are copyrighted by the owners, you only need to change a
few things to make it your own work as many of the figures in the remaps are from the
original map in the car. Experiment if you have the balls.

Grab all your friend's remaps and compare them against each other and the original.
As long as you don't start applying them to other cars you should be OK.

Don't ever remap someone elses car unless you own the remap.
Don't ever charge to remap someone elses car unless you own the remap.

If you do write your own, please don't charge too much to others.
Pressing The Button Won't Select Auto

If you have the car running and in 1st gear but pushing the button makes it go into auto,
there are 2 things to check.

Pull the gear knob off. Pull straight up, do not press the auto button, do not hit yourself in
the face.
This removal is the same for all standard gear knobs and some Brabus ones.

With the gear knob off, look into the end and press the button. You should see a plastic
peg emerge.
This plastic peg pushed the microswitch attached to the SE drive shaft. If the peg is
broken, look here.



Peg Is Fine, Still No Auto

There have been more and more reported cases of the Burgess F1NST8A1 microswitch
failing.
Here it is below. It has 2 wires although it is a 2 position switch, only the "normally
open" side is used.



Pull the microswitch out a little bit, you will see the 2 wires going to it.
If either of these wires are disconnected, solder it back in place and retest the switch.

Look at the metal arm that goes over the red nub, this is what transfers the movement of
the gear knob
button to the switch. If the metal bar is deformed, it can bridge the red switch and stop it
from being pushed.



Either reshape the metal bar or take it off and bin it. The gear knob button should still
touch and activate
it but the metal bar does stop the red rubber switch cover from wearing out so it's not an
ideal fix.



With the car running and in gear, bridge the 2 terminals very briefly with a short piece of
wire or unfolded paperclip.



If the car shows an A for auto on the speedo, the switch has an internal fault and needs to
be replaced.

You will need a Burgess F1NST8A1 (do a search, companies like RS will sell them).
Desolder the old switch and solder the new one in place. Hopefully it all works now.
The ZEE Unit

ZEE unit stands for Zentrale Einschub Elektrik which translated means
Central Electric Module.

The ZEE unit is the 600cc version of the SAM unit. It carries the fuses
in very
much the same way but the relays are all external so can be swapped
over.

Where the 700cc SAM unit is one part, the ZEE unit comprises of 3
sections.

Fuses, OBD and partial relay holder.

ZEE insert module that controls the electronics.
Secondary fuse and relay box located under the seat.


Removing And Opening The ZEE Unit

The main ZEE connector (outlined red), if your car is doing
strange things, check this isn't loose.



The ZEE insert slides out of the side.



The insert fully removed. Circled in yellow is the small speaker
that makes all the beeping noises.



Surrounding the unit are plastic tabs, these are easy to unclip.



With all of the clips undone you can remove the top to reveal
the cicuit board.



This is as far as you can get with viewing the ZEE insert, the
rear plastic housing
cannot be removed without damaging something. Highlighted
in blue is the outline of
relays L and M which are located on the other side of the ZEE
insert circuit board.
These cannot be removed or changed unlike the other relays.



Main Fuse And Relay Holder

Located under the dashboard. The fuse ratings and layout can be found here.



From 16/11/1999
Relay Coupe Function
A Front fog lights
B Boot solenoid
C Rear wiper interval
D Horn
E Relief for igntion, heater and windows
F Rear window heater
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval
L Central locking (inside ZEE unit)
M Central locking (inside ZEE unit)


Relay Cabrio Function
A Front fog lights
B Soft top open
C Soft top close
D Horn
E Relief for igntion, heater and windows
F Boot solenoid
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval
L Central locking (inside ZEE unit)
M Central locking (inside ZEE unit)

Depending when your car was made, you could have hidden headlight relays or none at
all., read further down.

Up to 15/11/1999


Relay Coupe Function
A Front fog lights
B Central Locking Locked
C Central Locking Open
D NA
E Rear Hatch Remote Unlocking
F Rear window heater
G Front coolant and AC fan
H Left turn indicator
I Right turn indicator
K Front wiper interval

The wipers, horn and relays are separate from the ZEE, they are hidden behind the dash.

Headlight Relays?

This only applies to 600cc smarts made from 2002 onwards.

For some odd reason, smart decided to put the headlight relays elsewhere.
On a right hand drive smart, the relays are hidden behind the stereo.
On a left hand drive smart, the relays are behind the main instrument cluster.

If your 600cc smart was made before 2002, there were no relays for the headlights.

Main Loom Socket Wiring


A Wire Colors Connection Fuse
1 Red Green Wiper stalk
2 Grey Red Wiper stalk
3 Grey Blue Ignition position 2
4 Brown White Safety triangle +v
5 Red Green Wiper stalk
6 Blue Blower switch
7 Yellow Black Fog lamp switch
8 Black Green Lighting stalk
9 Black White Lighting stalk
12 Blue White Handbrake switch
15 Black Blue Heater booster switch
17 Yellow Green Restraint control
18 Brown Earth
19 White Grey OBD pin 1
20 Grey Green 26
21 Grey Black ATA control unit
22 Brown Blue Centre console lamp
23 Violet ATA control unit
25 Green Safety triangle AC1
26 Grey Safety triangle AC2
27 Black Red/Blue Red Safety triangle window heater
28 Blue Yellow Safety triangle lock
29 Violet Blue Safety triangle hazards


B Wire Colors Connection Fuse
31 Brown Red Instrument cluster
33 Red Green Multi connector Z50/2
34 Red Blue 10
35 White Black Instrument Cluster
37 Red White 15
38 Brown Earth

Secondary Fuse And Relay Holder

Located under the carpet underneath the left hand seat.

Wiring

Connector 1


1 Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Black Pink MEG 1.0 K5
2 Red Black Fuel pump K5
3 Red Blue Primary fuse box K2
4 Red Blue Primary fuse box K2
5 Blue MEG 1.0 K2
6 Black White MEG 1.0 K2
7 Pink Blue MEG 1.0 K2

Connector 2


2 Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Green Charcoal valve K6
2 White Yellow MEG 1.0 K4
3 Green Blue MEG 1.0 K6
4 Red Green Primary fuse box K1 + K2
5 Yellow MEG 1.0 K3 + K4
6 Red Battery K1 + K4
7 Brown Earth K1
8 Black Yellow MEG 1.0 K3 + K5

Connector 3


M Wire Colors Connection Relay
1 Green Coil pack 1+2+3 K1
2 Green Injector 1+2+3 K5
3 Blue AC compressor K6
5 Blue Starter K3
6 Yellow Intercooler fan K4
7 White Wastegate valve K6

Relays



Thanks to Tony for the picture.


Relay Number Function
K1 Fuel pump
K2 Auto transmission
K3 Main relay
K4 Intercooler fan
K5 Starter motor
K6 A/C Compressor


Fuse Rating
1 15 Amps
2 10 Amps
3 15 Amps
4 10 Amps