INTRO

Bread Basics
From measuring the ingredients to storing the loaves, a step-by-step guide to making bread, plus essential
equipment and ingredients and 8 classic recipes
Text by Rose Levy Beranbaum, main photos by Gentl & Hyers / Edge



Fresh homemade bread, whether a soft white sandwich loaf, a crusty sourdough, or a rich brioche, is truly
a culinary gift. But many cookseven experienced onesfind the unique requirements of bread baking
intimidating. Complicated, scientific-sounding terms like "fermentation" and "proofing" can lead many to
conclude that this is a subject best left to professionals. But if you think baking bread at home is beyond you,
you may want to reconsider. Once you've mastered a few basic skills, it's actually an easyand extraordinarily
gratifyingexperience. In this primer we walk you through the entire process, from kneading, through
fermentation, to baking. We explain common words you may have heard, such as "sponge" and "rise," and
cover the ingredients and equipment you'll need to get started. With the simple steps we outline, you can
produce an almost endless assortment of breads, including the 8 classic types featured here. Read on, and you
just might find it hard to go back to store-bought.

BASIC STEPS
Nearly all breads contain 3 primary ingredientsflour, liquid, and yeastand are made using the same
simple steps. With these basics, you can produce an incredible variety of flavors and textures by adjusting the
types and amounts of ingredients used (for instance store-bought yeast versus natural airborne yeasts) and the
way the steps are employed. We'll address ingredients later in this primer, but below we've outlined the steps
of the bread-making process and the variations on each.

1. Measuring Ingredients
The first step in bread-making is, of course, measuring the ingredients. This is important, because differences
in proportions of ingredients can produce significant changes in the finished bread. There are 2 ways to
measure ingredients: by weight (ounces or grams) and by volume (tablespoons, cups, etc.). Weighing is
preferable, as it's more consistent (in particular with flour, which can vary significantly in volume depending on
how much it packs down in the package and how much you fluff it up), but of course it does require a scale.
If you prefer to measure by volume, try to be as accurate as possible. When measuring liquids, place the liquid
measuring cup in a stationary position at eye level and take the reading from the bottom of the meniscus (the
curved upper surface of the liquid). Flour can be measured either by the dip and sweep method or by spooning
it into the cup and, without shaking or tapping the cup, leveling it off, but these methods produce different
results, so always follow the method specified in the recipe. Before measuring flour, it's best to stir it a bit
because it settles in the container. Use measuring spoons for smaller amounts, such as for yeast.

The Baker's Percentage
Commercial bakers use a system called the baker's percentage, which makes it easy to create new
recipes and scale ingredients up and down. While you can make spectacular breads without
understanding the baker's percentage, if you become a regular bread baker, you may find it helpful.
When using the baker's percentage, all the ingredient amounts are calculated as a percentage of the
weight of the flour, which is 100 percent. Keep in mind that this usually doesn't take into consideration
residual ingredients such as the water contained in honey or potato. However, some recipes, including
several in this primer, have what's called the dough percentage, which accounts for all residual
ingredients. If, for example, the water percentage is 66 percent, this includes not just the water added
to the recipe but also water contained in any other ingredient(s).
2. Pre-Ferments (Optional Step)
An optionalbut importantstep in bread-making is using what's called a pre-ferment. Bread gets its spongy
consistency from fermentationthe interplay of flour, water, and yeast that begins when the water activates an
enzyme contained in the flour that breaks down the starch and converts it to sugar. The yeast feeds on the
sugar, growing and multiplying, and producing 2 essential by-products: alcohol and carbon dioxide. The alcohol
adds flavor, while the bubbles of carbon dioxide "leaven," or raise, the dough and establish the bread's crumb
or texture.
During fermentation, temperature and time play an important role in the development and complexity of flavor.
If fermentation takes place at a cooler temperaturein the refrigerator, for instancethe process slows down
and the bread develops a more complex flavor. On the other hand, if fermentation takes place more quickly, the
resulting bread will have a less complex flavor.
Much of the fermentation process takes place during the proofing stage, which we'll discuss below, but pre-
fermentation is an optional extra step that helps develop flavor. Although pre-fermentation is a key
characteristic of sourdough bread, it can be used to adapt any recipe depending on what materials you have on
hand, what kind of bread you want to make, and how much time you have to devote to the process.
Pre-fermentation involves mixing part of the dough's flour, water, and yeast and allowing it to ferment before
adding it to the rest of the dough. The use of a pre-ferment allows you to use less yeast because the pre-
ferment kick-starts the fermentation process before the dough is actually mixed together.
Making a pre-ferment several hours before adding it to dough will give bread an extra depth of flavor, but if a
pre-ferment is made one or even several days in advance, it will also add acidity. In small amounts, acidity
extends the shelf life of bread, but in larger amounts, such as in the case of sourdough, it starts to affect the
texture of bread, creating large holes in the crumb.
There are several different kinds of pre-ferments, and they differ by how much liquid they contain and how long
they ferment. Here is an overview of 5 types of pre-ferment:
Biga: This is a stiff pre-ferment approximating the consistency of bread dough. It is made with at least 1/3 the
water called for in the recipe, double its volume in flour, and a small amount of yeast (about 0.2 percent of the
weight of the flour). A biga must ferment at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, roughly 8 to 24
hours. It can then be stirred down and refrigerated for up to 3 dayslonger than that and the dough may
become too acidic. Other pre-ferments cannot be stored this way, making a biga a good choice if you can't
make bread for several days. Before adding a biga to the rest of the dough, cut it with scissors or tear it into
small pieces and allow it to soak, covered, for 30 to 60 minutes in the remaining water called for in the recipe.
Once the biga is softened, it can be added to the dough as directed by your recipe.
Sponge: This has a soft consistency akin to that of pancake batter, and is made by whisking together all the
water in a recipe with 30 to 50 percent of the flour and a little less than half the yeast. The sponge is then
covered with a blanket of the remaining flour mixed with the remaining yeast and any sugar or malt powder. A
sponge must ferment, covered, for at least 1 hour, but can be held up to 4 hours at room temperature or 24
hours in the refrigerator before mixing. Once a sponge has fermented for 1 hour, it is ready to be mixed with the
rest of the dough.
Poolish: This soft, sticky pre-ferment consists of 22 to 33 percent of the total flour in the recipe, equal or more
than its weight in water, and a very small percentage of the yeast called foranywhere from 0.03 percent to
0.5 percent of the weight of the flour, depending on how long it will ferment (from 3 to 12 hours). The poolish is
ready to use when it has risen to about 3 times its volume and is beginning to recede and wrinkle on the
surface. At this point it must be usedthe poolish cannot be stored for later use. Unlike with a sponge, the rest
of the ingredients are not placed on top of a poolish; instead, once the poolish is ready, it is simply combined
with the remaining ingredients.
Sourdough: While other pre-ferments require the addition of commercial yeast, sourdough (also called levain
and barm) is created from wild yeast that resides on the flour grain and, once fully active, is capable of
providing all the yeast necessary to produce a deeply complex and flavorful loaf. As mentioned earlier, the high
acidity of the dough creates large holes in the bread. (For a more detailed explanation of sourdough, see
the sourdough section of this primer.)
Unrefreshed Sourdough Starter: Excess sourdough starter can be frozen to use as a superb and effortless
pre-ferment. It makes for a stiff pre-ferment with a consistency similar to that of soft bread dough. Use about 16
percent of the weight of the flour in the recipe and, to balance the salt content, add 1/8 teaspoon for every 1/3
cup (2.6 ounces or 75 grams) of starter. As with other stiff pre-ferments, an unrefreshed sourdough starter must
be cut with scissors or torn into small pieces and allowed to soak, covered, for 30 to 60 minutes in the
remaining water called for in the recipe. Once softened, it can be added to the dough as directed by your
recipe. Note that the frozen unrefreshed starter does not need to be defrostedit will defrost sufficiently while
soaking in the water.

No-Knead Bread
If you don't own a stand mixer (or food processor or bread machine) or don't have the time or
inclination to knead by hand, consider no-knead bread. This technique, originated by Jim Lahey of New
York's Sullivan Street Bakery, is based on the idea that given enough time (at least 12 hours), the natural
fermentation process will accomplish what kneading doesbring the flour and water together to
develop gluten and establish bread's structure. The long, slow fermentation process requires less yeast
than traditional recipes and makes for bread with deep, complex flavors. Lahey's other secret is baking
no-knead bread in a preheated covered pot, which creates the steam necessary to achieve a beautiful
interior crumb and a thin, crackly crust. To give this method a try, check out Jim Lahey's recipe. Lauren
Salkeld
3. Mixing and Kneading
Once the ingredients have been measured (and after the pre-ferment has been made, if one is being used), the
dough has to be kneaded. Kneading involves pushing and pulling the dough to stretch and strengthen the
gluten in the dough. Gluten gives bread structure; it consists of strands of protein that form when water is
added to flour. The protein stretches to accommodate the bubbles produced during fermentation, allowing
bread to rise.
There are 4 ways to mix and knead bread: in a bread machine, in a stand mixer, by hand, and in a food
processor. For most bread, any method will work. However, if you're working with a very sticky dough, it's
better to use a bread machine or stand mixerwhen kneading by hand, it is tempting to add too much flour
(which can dry out the dough), and in the food processor, a very sticky dough often lifts up the blades and is
difficult to remove.
Different recipes include specific instructions for how and when to add ingredients. However, there are 2
important rules of thumb for all recipes. First, salt can kill yeast, so it is better to add it to dough after the yeast
has already been mixed into the flour or to mix it into the flour before adding the yeast. Either way, the point is
to prevent the salt from coming in direct contact with yeast. The temperature of water added to dough is also
very important: Cool, room-temperature, and warm water are fine, but ice water and hot water (anything above
120F) risk killing the yeast. If you use cold water, it will take the dough longer to rise (except if using a food
processor to mix it) because it slows down the fermentation process.
Using an Autolyze:
Most dough will benefit from using the autolyze technique, which simply means mixing together only the flour
and water (some bakers also add the yeast and the pre-ferment if using) to form a rough dough and letting it
rest, covered, for 20 minutes before mixing in the remaining ingredients (the salt and if not already added, the
yeast and the pre-ferment).
An autolyze provides for even hydration and more gentle development of the dough. The even hydration helps
prevent the dough from being too sticky, eliminating the need to add additional flour. This is particularly good
for breads with large open holes such as ciabatta as extra flour prevents the proper formation of those holes.
However, using the autolyze technique will improve the texture and rise of any bread.
Following the autolyze, any remaining ingredients are added and the dough is kneaded more vigorously for 3 to
10 minutes to realign and strengthen the gluten strands. How long dough is kneaded depends on what kind of
bread is being made. A bread with large holes, such as ciabatta, requires less kneading and only gentle
stretching and handling. A dense, chewy bread, like a bagel, requires longer kneading to develop the gluten.
Specific recipes indicate how the dough should look and feel when it is kneaded adequately, but in general, it's
best to keep the dough fairly moist and sticky because during the first rise the gluten continues to develop,
absorbing its moisture more evenly.

When kneading by hand try to use as little flour as possible as too much flour can dry out the dough.
How to Knead:
When kneading dough by hand, reserve about 1/8 of the flour from the recipe to use while kneading. This
should help prevent adding too much flour, which is always a risk when working by hand. Begin by using a
wooden spoon to stir the ingredients in a bowl until all the dry particles are moistened. Empty the contents of
the bowl onto a work surface lightly dusted with some of the reserved flour, then press it together to form a ball.
To knead, use the heel of your hands to bring the upper part of the dough over and toward you, and then push
it against the work surface and away from you. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, adding as little of the reserved
flour as necessary to keep it from sticking and using a bench scraper to lift the dough and scrape any that
sticks to the work surface back onto the main ball. Cover the dough with a bowl and allow it to rest for 20
minutesthis is the autolyzethen continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 minutes.
When using a stand mixer to knead, it usually takes about 1 minute on low speed to form the rough dough
before the autolyze. In the bread machine it takes about 3 minutes. Keep in mind that bread machines always
start with a 3-minute mix then progress to more vigorous kneading. If you want to use an autolyze, you will
need to turn the bread machine off after the initial 3-minute mix. When you turn it back on after the 20-minute
rest, the machine will start with the 3-minute gentle mix again. Once it goes into the kneading cycle, the amount
of kneading time will be the same as in the stand mixer5 to 7 minutes, depending on the recipe.
Using a food processor is the fastest and most efficient way to make bread. The processor's blades move so
fast that the dough is hydrated quickly, eliminating the need for an autolyze. Plus, the processing effectively
"kneads" the dough. The speed of the food processor also makes it especially useful for firm and slightly sticky
dough. However, dough (and any ingredients to be added, including a pre-ferment and water) should be chilled
before being processed so it doesn't overheat from the friction of the blades.
To make bread in the food processor, begin by placing the dry ingredients in the processor bowl and
processing to mix. Then add the chilled pre-ferment. If adding additional liquid, do it with the processor on.
Process for 45 seconds after the dough comes together. If absolutely necessaryfor instance, if the dough
sticks to the sides of the bowl a lotadd a little more flour and process a few seconds longer. Empty onto a
lightly floured counter and knead by hand for a few seconds to equalize the temperature.


The first rise (or proofing) is essential for developing a bread's flavor and structure.

4. Proofing
Once the dough has been kneaded, the next step is called "proofing," or "the first rise." This is the main
fermentation. Think of proofing as an essential and effortless (for you) way to develop the bread's structure and
flavor. Just as in the pre-ferment, the yeast is activated by the liquid and begins to feed on the flour, releasing
carbon dioxide bubbles. These are trapped by the gluten strands that have been developed during kneading.
Also, more alcohol and acids are produced, which flavor the bread.
Dough needs to be covered during proofing to keep its surface soft and moist. Plastic dough-rising
containers are sold for proofing, but you can also use a large bowl and plastic wrap. If your kitchen is around
75F to 80F, just cover the dough tightly with plastic wrap (if using a bowl) or a lid (if using a dough-rising
container). At cooler temperatures, create a warm, moist environment by setting a container of very hot tap
water near the rising dough and cover both with a large bowl or plastic proofing boxyou will need to reheat
the water every 30 to 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can place the dough (and the container of very hot water)
in a microwave oven (not turned on!) or a standard oven without a pilot light, but with the oven light turned on to
provide gentle heat.
Dough is sufficiently proofed when it has doubled in size. (Dough that contains more than 50 percent whole
wheat is an exception. Because of all the bran, it is more fragile and should only be allowed to rise to 1 1/2
times its size).
There are two ways to determine whether dough is sufficiently proofed: by sight and by touch. To use the sight
method, you will need to visually measure how much dough increases in size. Plastic dough-rising
containers have markings on the sides that make it easy to see when the dough has risen to the proper
height. Alternatively, you can mark a bowl with tape. The touch method requires poking a fingertip into the
dough. If the dough holds the depression, it is ready.
Breads vary in the number of times they are proofed. A simple bread such as focaccia might only be proofed
once, but a more complex-flavored bread, such as a rye loaf could be proofed as many as 3 times.
This initial proofing is done at warm room temperature, ideally 75F to 80F. Fermentation produces heat, so
the maximum temperature should be 85F, as higher than 90F can result in off flavors.

5. Punching Down and Turning Dough
Once dough has risen to double its size, it must be pressed down or turned to prevent it from overproofing. If
bread is allowed to rise to more than double its size, the gluten will stretch to the point of collapse and will no
longer be able to hold the gas bubbles that provide necessary structure for the loaf. Overproofed dough is
usually very dense.
Punching down is actually an antiquated term, as artisan bread bakers prefer to treat dough more gently,
pressing and gently deflating it rather than punching it. To punch down dough, transfer it to a lightly floured
surface, then use your fingertips to gently press and stretch it.
If dough is to have a second proofing, it must be folded using one package fold or two business-letter folds
after it's been punched down. To make a package fold, stretch the bottom of the dough and fold it up to the
center, then repeat with the left side, right side, and top. To make a business-letter fold, press the dough into
a rectangle. Fold the bottom third of the dough rectangle over the center, then fold the top edge down to meet
the bottom edge. For the second fold, rotate the dough package 90 degrees and fold into thirds again. After the
dough has been punched down, if it is not going to have a second rise, you can let it rest for 20 minutes then
move on to shaping it.


Some doughs require just one rise, while others get two or even three rises.
6. The Second Proofing (Optional Step)
As mentioned, some dough is proofed more than once. The second proofing can be done at room temperature
for a shorter time or overnight in the refrigerator. The longer, cooler option is actually advantageousthe cold
of the refrigerator slows down fermentation, which makes for additional complex flavors but slightly less
volume. The dough can be left in the dough-rising bowl or placed in a resealable plastic bag coated lightly with
nonstick vegetable-oil spray or vegetable oil. If proofing takes place in the refrigerator, the dough needs to be
brought to room temperature before proceeding.

7. Dividing and Preshaping the Dough
Some bread needs to be divided to form more than one loaf or roll. When dividing, be sure to use a sharp knife
or kitchen shears, as tearing it will compromise the gluten. Whether or not a dough is divided, it should be
roughly preshaped and allowed to rest, covered, for 20 minutes after the second proofing. This will help
produce the most evenly shaped loaf.

8. Shaping
Different types of bread require different shaping, and your recipe will provide the necessary details. Here are
some general pointers for shaping any bread.
Dough for breads with large internal holes such as ciabatta or focaccia needs to be handled very gently so as
not to deflate the air bubbles, which create the holes. For flat breads such as focaccia and ciabatta, dimpling
the dough with your fingertips pushes the air bubbles together to create the characteristic large, irregular holes.
These doughs are poured or scraped onto a baking sheet that's been coated lightly with nonstick vegetable-oil
spray or vegetable oil.
While breads like ciabatta and focaccia are only gently handled before baking, others, such as rolls or
sandwich loaves, are given a more definite shape. When shaping loaves or rolls, pinching the seam at the
bottom helps to form a tight outer "skin" and results in a higher rise and better form.
There are two surfaces to rising doughthe lower surface that is touching the bottom of the bowl or dough-
rising container, which is usually bumpy, and the upper surface, which is not pressing against any surface and
so is usually smooth. You want the smooth surface to become the outside or top of the loaf, so when shaping,
place it against the work surface. As you shape the dough, the smooth surface will grip the work surface
slightly, helping to create a better final shape.

9. The Final Rise
Once dough is shaped, it needs to rise (be proofed) for a final time. It should be transferred to the pan it will be
baked in or on (most often a loaf pan or baking sheet) first. As with previous rises, cover dough with lightly oiled
plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm, moist environment. Alternatively, the final rise can take place in the
refrigerator overnight, though be sure to bring the dough to room temperature before proceeding.
Let shaped dough rise until it has almost doubled in size and a finger gently pressed against the side creates
an impression that slowly fills in. Note that this differs from the test for the initial proofing, when you are looking
for the impression to hold. During the final rise, you don't want the dough to rise completely because it will
continue to rise in the oven.
If the dough has overrisen and keeps the impression, it will not continue to rise much if at all when placed in the
oven. If it is underrisen, it will rise too rapidly when placed in the oven and the crust will burst unevenly.

10. Glazing (Optional Step)
Glazes are used to produce different effects on bread crust. Spraying dough with water or brushing with a
mixture of 2 tablespoons beaten egg white and 1/2 teaspoon water produces a crisp crust. A whole egg lightly
beaten with 1 teaspoon of water, produces a shiny golden crust. Egg yolks produce the brownest crust and
usually necessitate tenting the bread loosely with foil after the first 20 minutes of baking. An egg yolk lightly
beaten with 1 teaspoon of cream produces a very shiny deep-brown crust, beaten with 1 teaspoon of milk, it
gives a shiny, medium-brown crust. Melted butter or oil makes for a soft velvety crust. Glazes can also be used
to "glue" or attach seeds to bread before baking.
If using an egg glaze, do not use steam during baking, as it will dull the shine.
Rather than a liquid glaze, dough can be dusted with flour to create an attractive, crisp crust.

11. Stenciling and Slashing (Optional Step)
Stenciling and slashing are done primarily for decorative reasons, but originally they served as ways to
personalize and identify breads made in a communal oven. To stencil dough, cut a design into paper or
parchment, lay it gently on top of the dough, and sift flour over the open portions. Carefully lift the stencil away.
Slashes, in addition to being decorative, also establish precisely where the bread will split during baking. If
bread is not slashed, it will split open slightly at the sides, just under the crown if baked in a loaf pan and toward
the bottom if free-form.
A one-sided razor blade works best for slashing. Make the slash 1/4 to 1/2 inch deepif necessary, go over
the slash again to deepen it.


12. Baking
The goal of baking is to gelatinize or cook the dough and to achieve good volume and an attractive crust. Here
are several simple techniques for baking beautiful, delicious bread every time.
Preheat: Bread benefits from an immediate hit of strong heat right at the beginning of baking. Always preheat
the oven, with a baking stone set on the bottom rack, at least 45 minutes before baking. If you're unsure of your
oven's accuracy, use a separate oven thermometer to ensure the right baking environment for your loaf.

Steam: To get the most volume from your bread, you need to slow down the formation of the crustthe slower
the crust forms, the more time the dough has to expandby adding steam to the oven. To do so, place a cast-
iron pan on the floor of the oven when you preheat it. As soon as you put the bread in the oven, toss a handful
(about 1/2 cup) of ice into the preheated cast-iron pan and immediately close the door.
Rotate: To ensure even baking, rotate bread halfway through baking.
Customize: Different types of bread bake at different temperatures, and your recipe will tell you exactly what
temperature to use. A butter- and egg-rich dough, such as brioche, requires a lower temperature of 350F and
a soft white sandwich bread 375Fthe lower temperature results in thicker crust, which prevents the sides of
these delicate breads from collapsing. Breads with a large amount of honey also need lower baking
temperatures to prevent overbrowning. Most rustic hearth breads should have thin, crisp crusts, so unless they
contain ingredients such as potato, which browns quickly at a higher temperature, they usually bake at 400F to
450F.
Test for Doneness: Bread is finished baking when a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Until you
are familiar with a specific recipe and how your oven bakes, it is best to use an instant-read thermometer to
determine doneness. Many bakers test bread by tapping the bottomif it sounds hollow, the bread is ready
but this method isn't nearly as reliable as using a thermometer. Try to take the bread's temperature in the
center of the loaf. To avoid making a hole in the top crust, insert the probe in the bottom center of the loaf. If
baking bread in a loaf pan, insert the thermometer sideways just under the crown. Most bread should be baked
to 190F to 210F, but it's best to consult your recipe, as the proper finished temperature varies for different
typesbutter- and egg-rich dough, for instance, finishes at between 180F and 190F while rustic hearth
breads are done somewhere between 205F and 211F.


13. Cooling, Slicing, and Storing Bread
Once bread is removed from the oven, set it on a rack to make sure air can circulate and to prevent the crust
from becoming soggy. It's important to allow bread to cool all the way, or until it's just barely warm, to complete
the cooking process before cutting. Rolls will take only about 20 minutes to cool. Bread baked in a loaf pan can
take as long as 1 hour and a large free-form loaf can take as long as 1 1/2 hours to cool. If you like warm
bread, simply return your loaf to a preheated 350F oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
To slice bread, use a serrated knife with deep serrations, which will make it easier and neater to cut slices.
Some bread, such as baguettes, have a more attractive texture when torn rather than cut.
Bread usually tastes best the day it is made. However, if you use a pre-ferment, the bread may stay good as
long as 3 to 5 days because its acidity prevents mold from forming. How much fat bread contains also affects
its shelf lifefat acts a preservative.
To keep the crust crisp, store bread in a brown paper bag at room temperature. Bread should not be stored in
the refrigerator as the starch will crystallize and the loaf will go stale more rapidly.
Bread freezes perfectly, if well-wrapped, for at least 3 months. Be sure to wrap whole loaves or slices airtight in
plastic wrap then place in resealable plastic freezer bags. Lightly toasting frozen bread will help restore its
texture and bring out its flavor.

SOURDOUGH
Sourdough bread differs from other varieties in that its starter uses wild rather than commercial yeast. The
wild yeast, along with water, flour, and the naturally occurring bacteria from the flour, creates a living starter
that must be regularly fed a mixture of flour and water for it to stay active enough to raise the bread. This
unique type of starter creates bread with a deeply complex and pleasantly sour flavor, a moist crumb, and an
extended shelf life.

Detailed instructions for making your own sourdough starter are included with the basic sourdough recipe. It
may seem like an involved process, but once you have a well-established starter, if you feed it regularly, it will
reward you for years and even generations to come. Here are some pointers for creating a successful
sourdough starter:

The use of wild yeast gives sourdough bread its complex and pleasantly sour flavor.
Create your starter with organic rye flour because it contains more wild yeast and bacteria than other types of
flour.
Feed your starter with high-protein unbleached flour, which will give it enough structure to stand up to its
increasing acidity.
Let your starter sit at warm room temperature (75F to 80F is best; above the refrigerator is a perfect spot) for
at least 1 hour before feeding. Wild yeast is a bit temperamental, but it grows best in a warm environment. In
between feedings, store your starter in the refrigerator.
Keep your hands and all utensils clean when feeding your starter to prevent contamination.
Cultivate patience, because you'll need itstarters develop in their own good time. It may take several weeks
before a new starter is ready to be used to make a batch of bread. You will know your starter is ready when it
doubles in size in 8 hours after feeding.

Adopting and Buying Sourdough Starters
If creating your own starter seems too time-consuming, try adopting one from another bread baker. People who
keep starters often have excess, and sharing it is a time-honored tradition. Another option is to purchase a
starter online. Sourdoughbreads.com and Sourdo.com are two reliable sources.

Stiff vs. Liquid Sourdough Starters
There are 2 types of sourdough startersstiff and liquidand they can be converted from one to the other.
A stiff starter, which consists of 2/3 flour to 1/3 water, produces bread with a more golden crumb and mellower
flavor. When not baking bread and refreshing the starter every dayor for long-term storagea stiff starter is
preferable because it grows more slowly and is slower to collapse if neglected.
A liquid starter consists of equal weights flour and water and is refreshed with equal weights flour and water,
making it easy to calculate how much it needs to be fed. It produces bread with a slightly more acidic flavor and
slightly larger holes.
A liquid starter can be converted to a stiff starter by adding an appropriate amount of flour. For every cup (8.5
ounces/240 grams) of liquid starter, add 3/4 cup (4.2 ounces/120 grams) flour.
Likewise, a stiff starter can be converted to a liquid starter by adding an appropriate amount of water. For every
cup (8.5 ounces/240 grams) of stiff starter, add 1/3 cup (2.8 ounces/80 grams water) water.
A stiff or liquid starter can also be adjusted for a particular recipe. If, for instance, you have a stiff starter
but your recipe calls for a liquid starter, use 3/4 the amount called for in the recipe and add 1/3 its weight in
water. Alternately, if you have a liquid starter but your recipe calls for a stiff starter, use 1 1/3 times the amount
called for in the recipe and reduce the amount of water in the recipe by 1/4 the weight of the liquid starter.

Feeding or Refreshing a Sourdough Starter to Keep It Active
As mentioned earlier, it's necessary to feed a starter with a mixture of flour and water to keep it active whether
you plan to use it right away or not. Although the process is basically the same, there are two different kinds of
feedings: feeding a starter to keep it active and feeding a starter to expand it for baking bread. First we'll
discuss feeding a starter to keep it active.
First, remove a small amount of starter from the refrigerator. This is the part that you'll feed and then store for
future bakingthe rest can be discarded, used for a batch of bread, or frozen and saved for use as a pre-
ferment. (If you want to expand your starter, take a larger piece.) Let the piece of starter sit at room
temperature for at least an hour before feeding it. Feeding will be detailed below, but in short, it simply involves
stirring in flour and water. Once the dough is fed, allow it to grow (see below for specifics) then return it to the
refrigerator.
The feeding process differs slightly for stiff and liquid starters. Below are guidelines for each.
To feed a stiff starter, tear off some of the starter, place it in a small bowl, and let it sit at room temperature for
at least an hour before feeding. The amount of starter you feed depends on how much bread you usually make,
but this is the basic formula: To a scant 1/4 cup (1.75 ounces/49 grams) starter, add 1/3 cup (1.75 ounces/49
grams) flour and 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (1 scant ounce/25 grams) water. Stir it with a spatula until it is
stiff enough to finish kneading together by hand. It should be very stiff and not stick to your fingers, as the
acidity in the starter will soften it as it sits refrigerated. If necessary, add a few droplets of water or a little flour.
Transfer the starter to a lightly oiled large bowl (or airtight container), cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let it sit
at room temperature for 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on when you plan to bake bread (see details below).
During this time the starter will be fermenting and expanding.
How much you let your fed starter expand depends on when you plan to begin expanding it to make bread,
keeping in mind that a starter must be fed for expanding 1 day before baking. If you plan to start feeding the
active stiff starter to expand it to make bread in 1 to 2 days, let it increase in size by 1 1/2 times (about 2 hours)
before refrigerating it; to make bread in 3 to 5 days, let it increase in size by 1 1/4 times (about 1 hour) before
refrigerating it; for baking in 6 to 7 days, let it increase just slightly (about 30 minutes) before refrigerating it.
To feed a liquid starter, first pour off and discard about half of it. Let the remaining starter sit at room
temperature for 1 hour before stirring in equal weights flour and water (by volume 1 part water to 1 1/2 parts
flour) until smooth. Transfer the starter to a lightly oiled large bowl (or airtight container), cover tightly with
plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for 1 to 5 hours depending on when you plan to bake bread (see
details below). During this time the starter will be fermenting and expanding.
As with a stiff starter, how much you let your fed liquid starter expand depends on when you plan to start
expanding it to make breada starter must be fed for expanding one day before baking. If you plan to start
feeding the active liquid starter to expand it to make bread in 1 to 2 days, let it increase in size by 1 1/2 times
(about 3 hours) before refrigerating it. If you plan to start expanding the starter to make bread in 3 to 5 days, let
it increase in size by 1 1/4 times (about 1 hour) before refrigerating it. And, if you plan to start expanding the
starter to make bread in 6 to 7 days let it increase just slightly (about 30 minutes) before refrigerating it.
A liquid starter can be kept about 7 days without feeding it. If you want to hold the starter for more than a week
without feeding it, it's best to convert it to a stiff starter. If you refrigerate a stiff starter right after feeding it, it will
be fine for 2 weeks. Alternatively, if you place the starter in an airtight container filled with flour, then cover it
with more flour so that it is completely buried, then cover and refrigerate it, a stiff starter can last as long as a
month without being fed.

Expanding a Sourdough Starter for Baking Bread
The day before you plan to use a sourdough starter to bake bread it needs to be fed flour and water to increase
it to at least triple its size. (I prefer a less-acidic bread so I increase mine to 8 times its original size.) This is
called feeding a starter to expand it for bread baking. The process is very similar to feeding a starter to keep it
active, except that it requires 2 separate feedings. After each feeding the dough needs to ferment and double in
volume, which takes about 6 to 8 hours. In between feedings, keep the starter, covered, at room temperature.
Your recipe will detail how to expand your starter, but here is a basic outline:.
To feed a stiff starter to expand it for baking bread, give it the first feeding about 14 hours before you plan
to start making bread. Give it the second feeding 6 to 8 hours later. (Throughout the process, keep the starter,
covered, at room temperature.) The starter will be ready after another 6 to 8 hours, but if you're not ready to
start making bread, the starter can be refrigerated, covered, overnight. Let the starter come to room
temperature about an hour before mixing it into the dough.
The best way to determine a feeding schedule is to work backwards from when you want to make bread. For
example, if you want to bake bread on Tuesday morning, give the starter the first feeding at 9 a.m. on Monday
and give it the second feeding between 3 and 5 p.m. on Monday. Six to 8 hours later, the starter will be ready
to mix into the dough, but if you don't want to start making bread late at night, refrigerate the covered starter
overnight. At 8 a.m. on Tuesday, remove the starter from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for 1
hour before mixing it into the dough.
To feed a liquid starter to expand it for baking bread, give it the first feeding about 20 hours before you plan
to start making bread. Then give it the second feeding 8 hours later. (Throughout the process, keep the starter,
covered, at room temperature.) The next day, the starter will be ready to be mixed into the dough.
Again, to determine a feeding schedule, work backwards from when you want to make bread. If you want to
bake bread on Tuesday morning, give the starter the first feeding at 1 p.m. on Monday and give it the second at
9 p.m. on Monday. Let the starter sit, covered, at room temperature overnight. At 9 a.m. on Tuesday, it will be
ready to be mixed into your bread dough.


INGREDIENTS
Basic bread contains very few ingredientsoften just flour, water, yeast, and salt, plus sometimes oil or
butter, eggs, seeds, grains, and nuts. With so few ingredients, it's very important to use the best quality and to
store them properly. Here is an overview of bread's main ingredients.

Flour
Flour's two different types of protein give bread its structure: glutenin, which creates elasticity and then
chewiness, and gliaden, which creates extensibility, the protein's ability to stretch to achieve a higher rise.
These proteins need water in order to connect and form gluten, the supporting structure of bread. The bubbles
of carbon dioxide resulting from fermentation are held in place by the gluten strands until baking, when the
starch gelatinizes and sets.

Different types of wheat flour contain different amounts of protein so be sure to use the specific
flour called for in your recipe. Photo by Dave King/Getty Images
Different types of wheat flour contain different amounts of protein. Unbleached all-purpose has the lowest
amount of protein, usually around 10.5 percent. Bread flour contains about 12 to 12.7 percent. High-gluten and
whole-wheat flours have about 14 percent protein.
Flours with different protein levels are good for different kinds of breads. For instance, unbleached all-purpose
is most suitable for soft varieties such as white sandwich bread, while bread flour works best for rustic or hearth
loaves. Butter- and egg-rich breads such as brioche can benefit from bread flour in the lower range, such as
Gold Medal's Better for Bread flour. It gives the dough a little extra support and rise without compromising its
soft texture. High-gluten flour, which is bread flour with extra protein, is ideal for chewy breads like bagels.
Keep in mind that different brands of flour differ in their protein content as well. There are several ways to deal
with this. If your recipe includes a recommendation for a specific brand of flour, you'll know its protein content
will work with the recipe. Alternately, some flour companies list the protein content of their flours on their Web
site, which can help you pick the right flour for the bread you're making. Beyond that, working with different
brands requires some trial and error.
Whole-wheat flour makes for a more wheat-y and substantial bread. Recipes that call for white flour can be
adapted to include some whole-wheat flour. For every cup of whole-wheat flour you use, add 1 tablespoon plus
2 teaspoons water. This is because the bran and high protein content of whole-wheat flour make it very
absorbent, so it needs more water. If you want to substitute whole-wheat flour for all of the white flour, it's best
to add 2 teaspoons of vital wheat gluten per cup because the bran contained in whole-wheat flour cuts through
gluten and weakens the structure of the bread. The vital wheat gluten helps restore some of that lost structure.
For each teaspoon of vital wheat gluten, add 1 1/4 teaspoons more water. (This water is in addition to the 1
tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons water per cup of flour that you add to compensate for using whole-wheat flour.)
Also, once you exceed 50 percent whole-wheat flour, you will need to keep the dough very sticky after mixing,
and slightly sticky after the second rise, then add flour only as needed when shaping. This is because the bran
in the whole-wheat flour is slower to absorb moisture evenly.
When making bread with whole-wheat flour, only allow it to rise to 1 1/2 times its size (rather than double).
Whole-wheat flour makes dough less extensible, so if you let it double it will not be able to support the rise and
will lose much of its loft.
Durum wheat flour has the highest protein of all flour. However, the gluten that forms when water is added is
not elastic, so durum wheat needs to be used in combination with other flours. Bread can be made with up to
26 percent durum wheat flour. Pugliesi is an example of bread made with durum wheat flour.
Rye flour does not contain any gluten-forming proteins, so it is used in conjunction with a minimum of 80
percent white wheat flour (less, and the rye would cause the bread to be gummy).
Pumpernickel flour is whole rye flour that is coarsely ground. It has to be used with a minimum of 70 percent
white wheat flour.

Buying and Storing Flour
National brands tend to be the most reliable, but it's really a matter of personal preference. Before purchasing,
be sure to check the expiration date to make sure the flour is as fresh as possible and buy flour and buy flour
with the appropriate protein content for the bread you wish to make.
As flour ages, it loses strength, and in the case of whole-wheat flour, the germ will cause it to become rancid
and bitter. Store all flour in airtight containers in a cool, dark placelight bleaches the color.
White wheat flour keeps, in an airtight container, at room temperature for about 1 year, but will stay fresh
longer if refrigerated and much longer if frozen.
Whole-wheat flour should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator or in a cool, dark place and used
within 3 months or stored in the freezer, where it will keep for up to 1 year.
Rye and pumpernickel flours can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 6 months or the
freezer for 1 year.
Organic flour needs to be placed in the freezer for a minimum of 72 hours to kill grain moth larvae or weevils
before it can be used. Afterward, store as you would regular flour, in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

Vital Wheat Gluten
Vital wheat gluten, which is derived from high-gluten wheat flour, is added in small amounts (1/2 to 2 teaspoons
per 1 cup of flour) to lower-protein flours to increase their strength. Though not absolutely necessary, vital
wheat gluten can also be added to breads made with whole-wheat flour or with whole grains and seeds. As
mentioned earlier, the bran in whole-wheat flour and nuts and seeds cuts through gluten and weaken the
structure of bread, but vital wheat gluten can restore some of that lost structure. Vital wheat gluten can be
purchased at the supermarket and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 18 months.

Water
Most tap water is perfectly suitable for bread baking. However, very hard water will toughen the dough and
slow fermentation, while very soft water will soften the dough, making it sticky. In these cases, it's better to use
bottled mineral water. Also, if your water has an unpleasant taste such as from sulfur, it is better to use mineral
water. Do not use distilled water as some minerals are needed for good texture and flavor.

Eggs
Whole eggs or egg yolks are used in place of some of the liquid in rich breads such as brioche in place of some
of the liquid. They offer flavor and color, and soften and lighten the crumb. Eggs have a drying effect on bread,
so they are usually used in conjunction with honey, which both adds and helps retain moisture.

Yeast
There are several different kinds of yeast. Instant yeast, which is also called rapid-rise or bread-machine
yeast, has nothing but advantages. The best and most important one is that it can be added directly to flour. As
detailed below, other types of yeast need to be proofed to make sure they are viable, plus they need to be
activated in warm water. (This is why bread recipes that call for fresh or active dry yeast also call for warm
water.) Instant yeast is widely available and will stay fresh for as long as 2 years if stored in a small airtight
container in the freezer.
The other types of yeast are:
Fresh compressed or cake yeast, which has a very short shelf life. Before cake yeast can be used it has to
be proofed to determine if it is viable. This type of proofing involves placing the yeast, along with a pinch of
sugar, in warm water (not to exceed 110F) for about 10 minutes. If the mixture becomes foamy, it can be
used; if it doesn't, the yeast is no good.
Active dry yeast, which has a longer shelf life (about 1 year; check the expiration date on the package) but
must also be proofed.
Both cake yeast and active dry yeast should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Keep in mind that direct contact with salt (without flour to buffer it) will kill yeast, so yeast should always be
mixed into the flour before adding salt to dough. Alternately, salt can be mixed into the flour before adding the
yeast.
Once you start working with yeast, you're likely to find you prefer one form to the others. Not every recipe is
going to be written with your preferred yeast in mind, but most recipes can be converted for the yeast you want
to use. If you have a recipe that calls for active dry yeast, you can replace each teaspoon with 3/4 of a
teaspoon of instant yeast. If you have a recipe calling for fresh compressed or cake yeast, you can replace 1
packed tablespoon with 2 teaspoons of instant yeast.

Salt
When baking bread, it's best to use noniodized salt such as sea salt because iodized versions can impart an
unpleasant flavor. It's also best to use fine salt as opposed to coarse because it is easier to measure.

Sweeteners
Sweeteners such as malt and honey are used to add flavor to bread dough. Malt, which is available in powder
and liquid form, can be added to almost any bread. It's important to use a nondiastatic version, though, as
diastatic malt has active enzymes, which, in excess, will make dough extremely sticky. Malt should be stored in
an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Honey adds both sweetness and moisture to breads such as challah. Be sure to use a pasteurized honey, as
wild honeys contain antibacterial properties that can kill yeast. Store honey at room temperature, out of direct
sunlight.

Fats
Adding butter (unsalted) or oil (olive or vegetable) in small quantities to bread results in a higher rise, a crisper
crust, and a longer shelf life. When fat is added in large quantities, such as for brioche, it results in a softer
texture and less volume. Butter and especially stronger oils, such as walnut, can also add flavor to bread.

Dry Milk Powder
Dry milk powder adds flavor to bread and can soften its texture, as in the case of the Basic Soft White
Sandwich Loaf included in this primer. Add it to dough with the flour.

Nonstick Vegetable-Oil Spray
Nonstick vegetable-oil spray is applied to proofing dough to prevent the outer part from crusting during
fermentation. It can also be sprayed on pans to keep the bread from sticking during baking.

Nuts
Nuts make a lovely addition to breads, but because they are prone to rancidity, always taste them before
adding them to dough. Be especially careful with nuts that are high in oil such as pecans and walnuts. For
added flavor, toast nuts in a 325F oven just until beginning to color, 5 to 7 minutes. Store nuts in the freezer, in
resealable plastic freezer bags, up to 1 year.

Whole Grains and Seeds
Whole grains and seeds add both flavor and crunch to bread, but they can be a bit problematic. Most bread can
support 33.3 to 60 percent their weight in grains and seeds (this is about 1/2 cup of grains or seeds for every 2
1/3 cups flour), but more than that causes structural problems for the dough. As mentioned earlier, both whole
grains and seeds cut through gluten, which weakens the overall structure of dough. Overcome this by simply
adding vital wheat gluten. (Use 2 teaspoons vital wheat gluten per 1 cup of flour and 1 1/4 teaspoons more
water per teaspoon of vital wheat gluten.)
Whole grains, including cracked wheat, bulgur, steel-cut oats, and polenta need to be soaked a minimum of 4
hours and preferably overnight to soften them before adding to bread dough. (Recipes calling for whole grains
will detail the soaking process.)
Seeds such as flax, sesame, poppy, sunflower, or pumpkin can be added to dough or used on a bread's crust.
There is no need to soak nuts, but toasting them at 325F (until just beginning to change color but not begin to
brown) for 5 to 7 minutes brings out the flavor. As with nuts, always taste seeds first to ensure they are not
rancid, and store any leftovers in the freezer, in a resealable plastic freezer bag, up to 1 year.

Basic Soft White Sandwich Loaf
enlarge image
yield: Makes: two 8-by-4-by-4 1/2-inch-high loaves (1 1/4 pounds/581 grams)
This is my best white bread for sandwiches, dinner rolls, cinnamon swirl or herb swirl breads,
and toast. I developed it to match my childhood memory... more

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ingredients
Dough Starter (Sponge)
unbleached all-purpose flour (use only Gold Medal, King Arthur, or Pillsbury): 2 1/4 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons
(12 ounces or 341 grams)
water, at room temperature (70 to 90F) : scant 1 3/4 liquid cups (14.3 ounces or 405 grams)
honey: 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (1.5 ounces or 45 grams)
instant yeast: 3/4 teaspoon (2.4 grams)

Equipment
two 8 1/2-in-4 1/2-inch loaf pans, lightly greased with cooking spray or oil
a baking stone OR baking sheet

Flour Mixture and Dough
unbleached all-purpose flour (use only Gold Medal, King Arthur, or Pillsbury): 2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (about
11 ounces or 311 grams)
dry milk, preferably nonfat: 1/4 cup (1.5 or 40 grams)
instant yeast: 3/4 teaspoon (2.4 grams)
unsalted butter, softened: 9 tablespoons (4.5 ounces or 128 grams)
salt: 2 1/4 teaspoons (15 grams)
Optional: melted butter: 1 tablespoon (0.5 ounces or 14 grams)
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preparation
1. Make the sponge. In a mixer bowl or other large bowl, combine the flour, water, honey, and instant yeast.
Whisk until very smooth, to incorporate air, about 2 minutes. The sponge will be the consistency of a thick
batter, Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap.
2. Make the flour mixture and add to the sponge. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour (reserve 1/4
cup if mixing by hand), dry milk, and instant yeast. Sprinkle this on top of the sponge and cover tightly with
plastic wrap. Allow it to ferment for 1 to 4 hours at room temperature. (During this time, the sponge will bubble
through the flour blanket in places: this is fine.)
3. Mix the dough.
Mixer Method
Add the butter to the bowl and mix with the dough hook on low speed (#2 if using a KitchenAid) for 1 minute or
until the flour is moistened enough to form a rough dough. Scrape down any bits of dough. Cover the bowl with
plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes.
Sprinkle on the salt and knead the dough on medium speed (#4 KitchenAid) for 7 to 10 minutes. It will not come
away from the bowl until the last minute or so of kneading; it will be smooth and shiny and stick to your fingers.
With an oiled spatula, scrape down any dough clinging to the sides of the bowl. If the dough is not stiff, knead
in a little flour. If it is not at all sticky, spray it with a little water and knead it in. (The dough will weigh about
44.25 ounces/1258 grams.)
Hand Method
Add the salt and butter to the bowl and, with a wooden spoon or your hand, stir until all the flour is moistened.
Knead the dough in the bowl until it comes together, then scrape it onto a lightly floured counter. Knead the
dough for 5 minutes, enough to develop the gluten structure a little, adding as little of the reserved flour as
possible to keep the dough from sticking. Use a bench scraper to scrape the dough and gather it together as
you knead it. At this point, it will be very sticky. Cover it with the inverted bowl and allow it to rest for 20
minutes. (This resting time will make the dough less sticky and easier to work with.)
Knead the dough for another 5 minutes or until it is very smooth and elastic. It should still be tacky (sticky)
enough to cling slightly to your fingers a little. If the dough is still very sticky, however, add some of the
remaining reserved flour, or a little extra. (The dough will weigh about 44.25 ounces/1258 grams.)
Both Methods
4. Let the dough rise. Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough into a 4-quart dough-rising
container or bowl, lightly oiled with cooking spray or oil. Push down the dough and lightly spray or oil the
surface. Cover the container with a lid or plastic wrap. With a piece of tape, mark the side of the container at
approximately where double the height of the dough would be. Allow the dough to rise (ideally at 75to 80F)
until doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Using an oiled spatula or dough scraper, scrape the dough onto a floured counter and press down on it gently
to form a rectangle. It will be full of air and resilient. Try to maintain as many of the air bubbles as possible. Pull
out and fold the dough over from all four sides into a tight package, or give it 2 business letter turns and set it
back in the container. Again oil the surface, cover, and mark where double the height would now be. (It will fill
the container fuller than before because it is puffier with air.) Allow the dough to rise for 1 to 2 hours or until it
reaches the mark.
5. Shape the dough and let it rise. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and cut it in half. Shape
each piece into a loaf: begin by gently pressing the dough (or lightly rolling it with a rolling pin) into a wide
rectangle; the exact size is not important at this point. (A long side of the dough should be facing toward you.)
Dimple the dough with your fingertips to deflate any large bubbles. Fold over the right side of the dough to a
little past the center. Fold over the left side of the dough to overlap it slightly. Press the center overlap section
with the side of your hand to seal the dough. (If you have a lot of experience shaping, you may prefer at this
point to rotate the dough 90 degreesa quarter turn.) Starting at the top edge of the dough, roll it over three or
four times, until it reaches the bottom edge of the dough: with each roll, press with your thumbs to seal it and at
the same time push it away from you slightly to tighten the outer skin. As you roll and press, the dough will
become wider. If it is not as long as the pan, place both hands close together on top of the dough and, rolling
back and forth, gradually work your way toward the ends, gently stretching the dough. For the most even
shape, it is important to keep a tight skin on the surface of the dough and not to tear it. If you want the edges of
the loaf to be smooth, tuck the sides under.
Place the loaves in the prepared loaf pans; the dough will be about 1/2 inch from the top of the pans. Cover
them with a large container, or cover them loosely with oiled plastic wrap, and allow to rise until the center is
about 1 inch above the sides of the pan, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. When the dough is pressed with a fingertip, the
depression will very slowly fill in.
6. Preheat the oven. Preheat the oven to 350F 45 minutes before baking. Have an oven shelf at the lowest
level and place a baking stone or baking sheet on it, and a cast-iron skillet or sheet pan on the floor of the
oven, before preheating.
7. Bake the bread. Quickly but gently set the pans on the hot baking stone or hot baking sheet. Toss 1/2 cup
of ice cubes into the pan beneath and immediately shut the door. Bake for 50 minutes or until medium golden
brown and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the
center will read about 210F). Halfway through baking, turn the pans around for even baking.
8. Glaze and cool the bread. Remove the bread from the oven and set it on a wire rack. Brush the top of the
bread with the optional melted butter. Unmold and cool top side up on a wire rack until barely warm, about 1
hour.
ULTIMATE FULL FLAVOR VARIATION
For the best flavor development, in Step 2, allow the sponge to ferment for 1 hour at room temperature and
then refrigerate it for 8 to 24 hours. If using the hand mixing method, remove it from the refrigerator about 1
hour before mixing the dough.
POINTERS FOR SUCCESS
If not using the dry milk, you can replace 1 cup of the water with 1 cup milk, preferably nonfat, scalded
(brought to the boiling point) and cooled to lukewarm.
UNDERSTANDING
A greater amount of sponge dough starter (pre-ferment) offers a fuller flavor in this plain bread, so almost 50
percent of total amount of flour is used in the sponge, compared to the usual 30 percent of hearth breads.
If using liquid milk, it is scalded to deactivate the enzyme in it that could make the dough sticky.
Baking the bread at too high a temperature, would result in too thin a crust, which would cause keyholing, or
caving in at the sides of the loaf. Therefore, this bread is baked at 350F. It is also important for the bread to be
thoroughly baked so that the crust is firm enough to prevent it from compressing. The loaves should not be cut
until completely cool for the same reason.
THE DOUGH PERCENTAGE
Flour: 100%
Water: 66.3% (includes the water in the butter and honey)
Yeast: 0.74%
Salt: 2.3%
Butterfat: 15.9%

EQUIPMENT
Basic bread-making requires very little special equipment. Below is an overview of the essential pieces you will need.


Using a scale is the most accurate way to measure ingredients. Photo by Dave King/Getty Images
Scale
A scale is a must if you weigh your ingredients. Look for one that can switch easily from grams to ounces, is accurate to 1 gram, and can
weigh up to at least 5 pounds.

Measuring Cups and Spoons
If you're not using a scale to weigh your ingredients, you will need liquid and dry measuring cups, as well as measuring spoons for smaller
ingredients such as yeast. Look for a clear liquid measuring cup with a spout, which makes it easy to accurately measure and neatly pour
ingredients.

Stand Mixer, Bread Machine, or Food Processor
Though satisfying, mixing bread dough by hand can be a messy endeavor. Plus, sticky dough is difficult to work with your hands and there is
always a risk that you will add too much flour and dry out the dough.
If you start to bake bread on a regular basis, you may want to invest in a stand mixer with a dough hook or a bread machine. (Only use the
bread machine for mixing and kneading; bread baked in a bread machine has inferior shape and texture.) These machines make the process
easier and reliably turn out good bread.
A food processor is another option, but it cannot be used for certain breads, including those with very sticky dough or with ingredients that
you don't want pulverized, such as nuts, seeds, or dried fruit.

Bench Scraper
A rectangular metal bench scraper is used as an extension of a bread baker's hand to cut and lift dough and to clean work surfaces.

Dough-Rising Container
Plastic dough-rising containers with tight-fitting lids and volume markings on the sides are excellent for fermenting and storing bread dough.
These can be found at professional kitchen supply stores. If you don't want to purchase dough-rising containers, a large bowl can be usedit
just has to be large enough to allow the dough to at least double in size.

Proofing Boxes
For the final proof, you need a warm, moist environment. Professional bakers often use a proofing box, which allows you to set the
temperature and humidity, but you can simply put the bread in a microwave (not turned on) or a standard oven. Alternately, you can
improvise a proofing box at home. You will need a plastic box that is large enough to cover the bread, with room to place a cup with hot
water, and high enough to allow the bread to rise without touching the top. The advantage of using a homemade proofing box is that you
monitor the rising bread more easily without having to open the oven or microwave door.

A Banneton
A banneton is a wooden basket used for raising sourdoughthe basket helps the dough maintain its shape while rising. Look for a banneton
lined with a rough woven cloth, which allows the dough to breathe and prevents it from sticking, or use a colander lined with a clean kitchen
towel.

Baking Stone
Baking stones help recover any heat lost when the oven door is opened. They also pull some of the moisture out of the bottom crust, and
provide for more even baking. Look for a stone that allows at least 2 inches of space between its edge and the oven walls, which will let air
circulate properly.

Parchment Paper
Parchment paper is very useful for placing underneath free-form loaves during forming and baking because it prevents them from sticking to
the oven stone and makes it easier to transfer bread to the oven.

Loaf Pans
Most shaped loaves are baked in an 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 inch (6-cup) or a 9 by 5 inch (7-cup) loaf pan. Choose heavy-weight pans with a dull
finishit absorbs heat so it browns better than a shiny finish which deflects heat. Dark- gray pans are fine, but avoid black ones, which will
cause crust to overbrown.


Once bread is removed from the oven, set it on a rack to make sure air can circulate and to prevent the crust from becoming
soggy.

A Razor
A one-sided razor is used for slashing bread.

Baking Peel
A baking peel, also called a pizza peel, is helpful for transferring bread onto and off the oven stone. Look for one made of metal with a long
handle. If you don't have one, you can use a baking sheet.

Cast-Iron Pan
A cast-iron pan preheated and filled with 1/2 cup of ice, is used to create steam in the ovensteam slows down the formation of the crust,
which makes for beautifully risen bread. Reserve a special pan for this purpose or line it with aluminum foil to prevent rust.

Thermometers
The best way to determine the doneness of bread is to test its internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer. These are available in
digital and analog versions. Look for one that can be recalibrated with a hex nut and that has a large and easy-to-read face.
If you are unsure of your oven's accuracy, a separate oven thermometer is a must. Once you get to know your oven and bake several
loaves, you probably won't need it anymore.

Cooling Rack
A cooling rack is a necessity because it allows air to circulate around the baked bread, keeping it from getting soggy. Look for one that has
short legs to raise it off the counter and allow for adequate circulation.