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AnneLiese
Anne Liese's Fibers and Stuff
A 14th Century Netted Hairnet
Examples of 13th and 14th Century hairnets were found in London excavations and published
by the Museum of London (see below for complete reference). Most Medievalists use
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crocheted snoods for 13th and 14th century costume, but we know they are not accurate for
the period. I decided to make a copy of one of the extant hairnets to see how they would
compare to crocheted snoods.
The hairnet was constructed from brown 3-ply filament silk using a netting shuttle and a #3
knitting needle for a gauge. The originals were made with 2-ply undyed or brown silk.
I started the project by knotting approximately 150 loops onto a loop of thread. For the second
row I started knotting on the loops created in the first pass. I spiraled around until the net
seemed large enough to fit me, or about 10 inches long when stretched. I then fingerloop-
braided a flat lace of 5 loops from the Directions for making many sorts of Laces from MS
2320 using a doubled thread for each loop. I sewed the braid to the bottom edge of the
netting using the same silk thread. At the top edge I pulled out the starter loop and re-inserted
2 groups of threads that could act like pouch drawstrings to close the opening for the back of
the head. The fingerloop lace ties to fasten the hairnet around the head, and the central strings
pull shut to keep the hair inside once arranged.
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My starting method did not produce the long loops shown at the crown of the hairnets, so for
my next one I'll have to find a different method of starting. Perhaps the initial knots at the
center are overhand knots instead of netting knots.
Medieval Hairnet vs. Crocheted Snood
Easier to keep on
Silk sticks to hair, so as long as I tie it tightly, the net stays on better than elasticized
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snoods I've worn. This is true even though I have very fine, slippery hair. I can pin
barbettes and veils to it and they will stay put all day.
Less visible
There may have been other hair nets which were meant to show (as illustrations of the
period would lead me to believe), but the ones dug up in London were particularly fine
meshes. I now believe the hairnets of this sort were actually meant to show the arranged
hair inside, rather than cover it as crocheted snoods do. They can be likened to the
hairnets of the 1940's, where the snood was integral to the hairstyle but not supposed to
be visible. So I have started braiding my hair before putting on the snood instead of
leaving the hair loose.
Sources:
Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; and Staniland, Kay. Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-
1450. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London 4. Her Majesty's Stationery Office, London:
1992.
Stanley, E.G. Chaucer and Middle English Studies. Directions for Making Many Sorts of
Laces. Queen Mary College, University of London.
Making Medieval and Renaissance
Hairnets
Based on information hairnets from: Museum of London Textiles and Clothing Book, Flury-
Lemberg's Textile Conservation, St. Truiden hairnets, other German hairnets described to
me.
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Materials
Silk - reeled (not spun), usually 2-ply. May match hair color (if net is meant to be an invisible
hair-controlling device) or may be bright colors (red, green, gold, blue) if net is meant to be a
fashion statement. Modern silks to try: Buttonhole twist, silk beading thread, silk organzine,
hand-reeled thread
Gold-wrapped filament - for macrame knotting or for embroidered embellishment.
Technique
Netting with netting needle. The most likely starting method is to make slip knots and slide
them onto a dowel. Take a long length of thread and make a slip knot in the MIDDLE of the
thread. Slide it over a dowel and pull tight. Now take one free end, make a slip knot, and slide
it over the dowel. Thread a colored starter cord through the loop made between the two slip
knots. Next take the other free end of the thread, make a slip knot and slip it over the dowel.
Thread the colored starter cord through the new loop. Continue making slip knots with
alternate ends of the cord and threading the starter cord through the loops. If you catch the
loops correctly on the first round of netting, this will make a tubular net.
Macrame-style knots - need multiple ends which then get knotted together. No special tools
needed.
Size of Mesh
As small as 64 squares per square cm. That's an 8x8 grid in one square centimeter!
As large as one square per square cm or even larger for macrame-knotted meshes
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Shape
Completely tubular or optionally increases after 10-20 rows. Increases are usually done by
alternating knotting in the current row and knotting in the previous row. Starting rows may also
be done on smaller gauge.
Cord for Edge
Fingerloop tape, tabletwoven tape, or ribbon sewn on most of the way around, threaded
through last few meshes at back for adjustability.
Embellishment
Some tabletwoven tapes have a woven pattern.
One hairnet had a sturdy cord for adjustment and a more delicate ribbon sewn on top. The
ribbon was embellished with seed beads, pearls, and small metal plaques.
The nets themselves may have pearls or beads sewn at intersections, judging from pictorial
documentation.
Some nets were embroidered in darned patterns. Motifs include crosses, small shields, sun
symbols (swastikas), and diamonds. See Filet lace patterns for other ideas.
Al l content copyri ght the author, Jenni fer Munson munson.j enni fer@gmai l .com The author makes
no guarantees for i nstructi ons and reci pes on thi s si te; nei ther does she accept responsi bi l i ty for thei r
outcomes. Verbati m copi es may be made for educati onal purposes onl y provi ded they contai n
ori gi nal copyri ght marki ng.
Thi s page created August 4, 2001
Last updated August 05, 2005