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AnneLiese
Anne Liese's Fibers and Stuff
Netting - How to make the basic knot
The instructions below are for one method of many possible methods for making a netting
knot. It is complicated and requires at least two thumbs, three pinkies and seven other fingers
per hand (just kidding!!). Seriously, it is tricky to pick up, but worth it for lacemakers because it
is the best method for creating fine nets. Once the netter has mastered this knot, she uses
only three moves (wrapping the thread, putting the shuttle through, and pulling the knot tight)
which flow together. Traditional methods for larger nets may involve up to five moves (set up,
pass the shuttle, set up, pass the shuttle, pull tight) but can be done with thick rough rope
without abrading the hands.
Do not think that your first attempt at netting will yield a nice-looking net. In an average hands-
on class of ten I will usually have one student who can actually make a reasonable net with odd
tension, one student who will insist on un-picking each knot that fails and spend more of her
time unknotting than knotting, about 6 who fail at their first several attempts but eventually get
it, and one or two who give up (many times I can talk them into trying again but being all the
way across the internet I might not be able to talk you back into trying again!). So please be
patient with yourself; if you fail at your first few knots it does NOT mean that you are inept or all
thumbs, it simply means you are a normal person learning a fairly complicated skill.
Tools Needed:
(click here for some suggested sources for netting tools)
Netting Shuttle
The type and size of
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shuttle depends on the
size of your thread/rope
and your finished net. You
should be able to easily
load the shuttle with
several yards of thread or
rope. It should also be
small enough to fit through
a loop the size of the
diameter of your gauge
AFTER it is loaded with
thread/rope.
To the right are a few
netting shuttles in my
collection. All but the off-
white plastic one could be
considered netting
needles. The one on the
far right was made for me
from silver wire twisted
together. The off-white
plastic one was sold by
Lacis as a "Norwegian"
shuttle and works very
well for medium-weight
yarn.
The pictures below will
show a style of larger
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plastic shuttle available
from many sources that
works well for larger
fishnet-sized netting.
Those wanting an
"authentic" tool could
carve the shape from a
flattish piece of wood.
Netting Gauge
The gauge can be
anything with a constant
diameter; some are round
and some are flat like
popsicle sticks. For
hairnets and small work I
tend to use doublepointed
knitting needles. For large
nets a section of dowel
will do well, as shown
here.
Anchor Point
For classes I have
students hook their
starting loop in a notch in
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starting loop in a notch in
the end of a 3 foot long
dowel. This allows for a
student to anchor the
dowel between her legs
and pull down and
towards her stomach as
she works.
The only clear pre-1600's
illustration I've seen of a
woman netting showed
her work tied to a hook on
the wall. So if you don't
have a dowel, tie your
work to a doorknob or
something else that will
give resistance when you
pull down and towards
you.
Getting Started
Load the shuttle
Metal netting needle
shuttles should have a
hole in one end which you
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hole in one end which you
will tie your thread to.
Once the thread is tied,
you simply wrap the
thread end-to-end around
the shuttle, each time
passing through the
pincers. There is no need
to thread the end of the
thread through the
pincers; placing the
thread across the opening
and pulling should make it
slip right in.
For a larger shuttle with a
prong in the center, start
by tying the string to the
prong.
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Wrap the string around
the bottom of the shuttle
and up the reverse side.
Slip the string around the
prong on that side and
wrap the thread around
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the bottom of the shuttle
again so it is again on the
front.

Slip the string around the
prong from that side and
repeat wrapping the
thread around the bottom
and around the prong.

When the shuttle is
sufficiently full, cut the
string.
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Tie a starting loop
This loop does not have
to be made of the same
material as your net; it will
be taken out and thrown
away when the work is
done. Its size is not
important; neither is what
knot you use to tie the
string into a loop.
Anchor your
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Anchor your
starting loop
If you are not using a
dowel with a notch as your
anchor, you might tie your
starting loop to your
anchor point. Having a
hook to hang the loop on
without tying it allows you
the freedom to flip your
work if you are making a
flat piece or to rotate the
starting loop if you are
making a circular piece.
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Tie the working
string to the
starting loop
Start the first knot
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Start the first knot
Hold the gauge in your
non-dominant hand as
pictured above. The
directions below will refer
to the "gauge hand" and
"shuttle hand" rather than
left or right to avoid
confusion for lefties and
those who find they prefer
holding the shuttle in their
left hand. Reverse the
images on your computer
or on a photocopier.
Place the gauge below
the starting loop and bring
the working string in
FRONT of the gauge.
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Around the fingers
Wrap the string around
the fingers of the gauge
hand from front to back. It
doesn't matter how many
fingers; at minimum wrap
it around the gauge and
your middle finger or at
maximum wrap it around
the gauge and your index,
middle and ring fingers.
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Catch it with the
thumb
The string should be
pulled tight and anchored
on the top of the gauge
with your thumb to make
the loop around your
fingers stable.
Do not bring the thread
down in front of the
gauge; you will be taking
it back up and away from
the gauge hand.
Watch out
stomach, here it
comes!*
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comes!*
Bring your working thread
up over part of the starting
loop (or the loop you will
net into next) and allow it
to drape down in back of
the gauge hand.
At this point unwind
enough thread from the
shuttle that the shuttle can
make it back towards
your stomach without
disarraying the part that is
draped.
* this line courtesy of
Baroness Cateline la
Broderesse
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Shuttle goes
under, under, over,
through
Start with the tip of the
shuttle in the palm of your
gauge hand.
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Push the tip of the shuttle
behind the gauge and the
front part of the loop that
goes around your gauge
and fingers (that's the
"under, under" part)
Make sure that the shuttle
will be going through the
loop that's around your
gauge and fingers. The tip
should be in front of the
back half of that loop
(that's the "over" part).
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Now push the tip of the
the shuttle from back to
front through the loop
you're netting into; here
it's the starting loop.
That's the "through" part.
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Pull the shuttle through
and grab onto the thread.
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Catch the pinkie
Stick your little pinkie
WAY out and as you pull
the thread with your
shuttle hand catch the new
loop that is forming on
your pinkie.
DO NOT let go of that
loop until I tell you to; it
provides your tension so
that the knot forms in the
place you want it to.
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...And pull it to*
As you pull the thread with
your shuttle hand, also pull
down on the loop around
your pinkie which should
tighten the other loops
around your hand.
Let go of the loop caught
by your thumb.
* Pennsylvania Dutch
saying, usually applied to
closing a door
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Next, take your fingers
(except the pinkie!) out,
leaving a loop that should
tighten around the gauge.
Keep pulling down with
your pinkie as you pull
everything tighter with
your shuttle hand. You
may find that you almost
make a "sawing" motion
by pulling alternately with
your pinkie and shuttle
hand.
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Before the pinkie loop
gets too tight, bring the
working thread down in
FRONT of the gauge. The
sawing motion of
tightening should now
move the new knot
forwards and backwards
on the top of the gauge.
Center the new knot on
top of the gauge as you
let your pinkie loop get
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let your pinkie loop get
smaller and finally pull
your pinkie out at the last
minute.
You may notice in this
picture that I tend to put
my index finger on the
back of the knot to control
the tightening of the pinkie
loop after the pinkie has
been taken out. I find with
fine threads this makes
my tension more
consistent. However, it
puts more strain on the
thread at that point (and
more skin oils, if you are
working with white linen or
cotton).
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YOU DID IT!!!!!!
You should actually be
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You should actually be
able to take your gauge
out after each knot and
the knot will stay if you did
it correctly.

If the knot falls out when
you remove the gauge
DON'T GIVE UP! Also
don't waste your time
trying to make your first
attempt "neat" by untying
knots and half-knots. Just
go on to attempt a new
knot, this time carefully
watching where the tip of
your shuttle goes in
relation to the loops.
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To start the next knot,
always check that your
working thread is in front
of the gauge and wrap the
loop around your fingers
from front to back.
Next Steps:
Making a Flat Piece
Exercises in
Shaping a Net

Al l content copyri ght the author, Jenni fer Munson munson.j enni fer@gmai l .com The author makes
no guarantees for i nstructi ons and reci pes on thi s si te; nei ther does she accept responsi bi l i ty for thei r
outcomes. Verbati m copi es may be made for educati onal purposes onl y provi ded they contai n
ori gi nal copyri ght marki ng.
Thi s page created August 4, 2001
Last updated August 05, 2005

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