Construction Bottoms (Lined and Unlined)

Ann Taylor
Ann Taylor Loft

Ann Taylor Factory Stores

Construction Guidelines

CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES
BOTTOMS

Lined & Unlined

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines

Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 2 February 2004

TABLE OF CONTENTS

TABLE OF CONTENTS ...............................................................................................................................................................................2
INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................5
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ...............................................................................................................................................5
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES PANTS & SKIRTS:..................................................................5
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES:........................................................................................................................................................5
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-16):.......................................................................................................6
PANT LEG PRE-CREASE: ...........................................................................................................................................................................6
PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS: ..........................................................................................................................................................7
SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:..........................................................................................................................................................8
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS: ......................................................................9
Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish.................................................................................................................................9
Chainstitch Open Press w/ Overedge Finish .............................................................................................................................9
Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge..................................................................................................................................................9
Safety Stitch .................................................................................................................................................................................9
Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch ........................................................................................................................................................10
Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch .........................................................................................................................................................10
Lockstitch; Raw Edge.................................................................................................................................................................10
LEATHER SEAMING.................................................................................................................................................................................11
Lockstitch Glued Open Press ..................................................................................................................................................11
Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed ............................................................................................................................................11
Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve ...............................................................................................................................................12
Inseam for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.............................................................................................12
STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES: ....................................................................................................................................................13
STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS: ....................................................................................................................................................15
Pattern Requirements ................................................................................................................................................................15
Lining Attachment to Shell: ........................................................................................................................................................15
STANDARD BUTTON SETTING: ...............................................................................................................................................................15
STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT: ...................................................................................................................16
Ann Taylor Stores .......................................................................................................................................................................16
LOFT & Factory Stores ...............................................................................................................................................................16
CONCEALED ZIPPER CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS.............................................................................................................................17
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 18 61)...............................................................................................................18
ZIPPER CLOSURES: .................................................................................................................................................................................18

FLY CLOSURES: .......................................................................................................................................................................................19
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband: .................................................................................................................19
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband.............................................................................................................19
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom...........................................................................................20
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom....................................................................................21
Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension ....................................................................................................................................................22
Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure..............................................................23
Ladies Fly Closure & Mens Fly Closures: ..................................................................................................................................23
WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH: ...........................................................................................................................24
Clean Finish at Inside Edge ........................................................................................................................................................24
Overedge Finish at Inside Edge..................................................................................................................................................25
Binding Finish at Inside Edge......................................................................................................................................................25
Waistband set to Lining..............................................................................................................................................................26
WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:...............................................................................................26
Clean Finish at Inside Edge ........................................................................................................................................................27
Overedge at Inside Edge............................................................................................................................................................27
WAIST FACING OPTIONS: .......................................................................................................................................................................28
OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS: ...........................................................................................................................................29
OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS (CONTINUED):....................................................................................................................30
LEATHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS: .......................................................................................................................................31
BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:...........................................................................................................................................................................32
WELT POCKET OPTIONS:........................................................................................................................................................................34
Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts ..................................................................................................................34
Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts ..............................................................................................................34
BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:.....................................................................................................................................................................35
Welt & Besom Pockets - Front Pockets .....................................................................................................................................35
POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET: .....................................................................................................................................35
BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS: ......................................................................................................................................................36
Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets .................................................................................................................................36
ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS: .............................................................................................................................................................37
Vertical On Seam Pockets ......................................................................................................................................................37
ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS: .............................................................................................................................................................38
Vertical On Seam Pocket Facings...........................................................................................................................................38
Horizontal / Angled On Seam Pockets....................................................................................................................................39
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS: .........................................................................................................................................................40
Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband..............................................................................................................................................40
Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband .......................................................................................................................................41
L-Shape ......................................................................................................................................................................................42

Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag .....................................................................................................................................43
QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:.................................................................................................................................................44
Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions:..............................................................................................................................................44
PATCH POCKET OPTIONS: ......................................................................................................................................................................45
PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS: ....................................................................................................................................45
PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:.....................................................................................................................................46
PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS: .......................................................................................................................................46
PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:.................................................................................................................................................46
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS: .........................................................................................................................................................................47
Welt Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts.......................................................................................................47
Besom Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts...................................................................................................47
Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Flap Front Pockets..........................................................................................................................48
POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET W/ FLAP: ......................................................................................................................48
Patch Pocket w/ Flap..................................................................................................................................................................49
Under Flap Bias Cut .................................................................................................................................................................49
POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS: ........................................................................................................................................50
Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure ..................................................................................................................................50
Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button Closure...................................................................................................................................50
Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure.................................................................................................................................................50
SLITS: .......................................................................................................................................................................................................51
VENTS:......................................................................................................................................................................................................55
VENT & SLIT X TACK: ...........................................................................................................................................................................55
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: .................................................................................................................................................................56
BUTTONHOLES:.......................................................................................................................................................................................56
ZIPPER TERMS:........................................................................................................................................................................................57
HOOK & EYE TYPES:................................................................................................................................................................................58
Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper ................................58
LOOP & FROG CLOSURES: .....................................................................................................................................................................59
OTHER CLOSURES: .................................................................................................................................................................................59
DECORATIVE STITCHES: .........................................................................................................................................................................60


CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES BOTTOMS

INTRODUCTION:

The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and
components.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and
Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES:
All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment.
Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.
Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).
Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.
One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker.
Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.
NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES PANTS & SKIRTS:
Fully Lined.
Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES:
All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.
Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:

* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on Straight Grain
(Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610)
* Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting


STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-16):

PANT LEG PRE-CREASE:

NOTE: See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.
C
e
n
t
e
r

o
f

L
e
g
B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg
Front
Front
C
e
n
t
e
r

o
f

L
e
g
Note:
Crease Leg to
Thigh Line Only
Thigh
Line
Crease along
center of Leg
NO Crease
fromWaist to
Thigh line
Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hemline.
Align
Outsesam &
Inseam edge
from Knee to
Leg Opening
Front Leg
Back Leg
At "final" pressing:
Position along Front leg
crease prior to pressing
Back Leg crease.
Note: Inseam and
Outseam are aligned
from Knee to Leg
Opening.


PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:
NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.
Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.

Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing
(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press
Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge
(double stitch base of Rise)
Front Rise Back Rise Open press above rise curve

Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Front Rise Back Rise Open Press above rise curve

Safety Stitch Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)

Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back
Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge
(Double stitch base of Rise)
Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear

Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back

Safety Stitch Outseam Inseam Press toward back


SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:
NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.
Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press
Panel seams Center Front

Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press
Panel seams Center Front

Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back
Center Back Press toward wearers left
Center Front Press toward wearers right
Panel seams Press toward center

Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back

Safety Stitch Side seams Press toward back

French Seam Side seams Press toward back


STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:

Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish Chainstitch Open Press w/ Overedge Finish

Open Press
Lockstitch
Overedge
Lockstitch
A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press

Seam Details
1/2 seam
allowance

Overedge at
raw edge

Lockstitch

Open Press
(Above rise
curve)

(Note:
If Topstitched,
press to one
side of seam.
See Spec Pkg.)

A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)
Chainstitch
(under side)
Overedge
Open Press
(top side
of stitch)
Overedge

Seam Details
1/2 seam
allowance

Overedge at
raw edge

2-Thread
Chainstitch

Open Press
(above rise
curve)

(Note:
If Topstitched,
press to one side
of seam. See
Spec Pkg.)

Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge Safety Stitch

Lockstitch
Close w/ Overedge
A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge -
(press to one side)

Seam Details
3/8 to
seam
allowance

Lockstitch

Closed w/
Overedge

Press to one
side
(See
Construction
Methods Chart
/ Spec Pkg.)

Chainstitch
(under side)
(top side
of stitch)
Overedge Stitch
A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread)
Safety Stitch
(Combination of
Single Needle Chainstitch
+Overedge Stitch)
Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)

Seam Details
3/8 seam
allowance

Press to one
side (see
Construction
Methods Chart or
Spec Pkg.)

Shell seams

Lining seams



Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch
A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched
Chain Stitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Cross Section
Through
Stitch
Seam allowances inter-lap
Through
Stitch

Seam Details

Lapped Seam
(Raw edges
enclosed)

1/4 to
3/8seam
allowance

2-Thread
Chainstitch

Outside View
A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched
Inside View
Lockstitch
Seamallowances inter-lap
Through
Stitch
Cross Section
Through
Stitch

Seam Details

Lapped Seam
(Raw edges
enclosed)

1/4 to 3/8
seam
allowance

Lockstitch

Lockstitch; Raw Edge

Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge

Lockstitch
Raw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch

Seam Details

1/4 seam
allowance

Edge seams

Internal seams
(i.e. Waistband
/ Waist Edge,
Pocket Flap)

When pressed
to one side
(See
Construction
Methods Chart or
Spec Pkg.)
Back Tack
1/2" Tail
A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch
Single Point
*Follow Dart Guide
on pattern

Darts

Lockstitch

Press dart
toward Center
Front / Center
Back

Run off Dart
Point w/
tail.

No dimpling at
Dart Point

Follow Dart
marker


LEATHER SEAMING

Lockstitch Glued Open Press Lockstitch Glued Pressed Closed
A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued
Raw Edge
Lockstitch
join seam
Open Press
and
Glued

Seam Details

Lockstitch

Pressed Open
& glued

3/8 to 1/ 2
seam allowance
(depending on
seam location)

Lockstitch
join seam
Raw Edge
A1-26 Lockstitch;
Press to one side
and Glued

Seam Details

Lockstitch

Pressed to one
side & glued

3/8 to 1/ 2
seam allowance
(depending on
seam location)



Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve Inseam for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.

SeamLine
B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch
Front
Staystitch
1/16"
from
Seamline
SeamLine
Back
Staystitch
1/16"
from
Seamline

Seam Details

PANT: Outseam

SKIRT: Side
Seam

Lockstitch

Stitch in seam
allowance
(approx. 1/16
from seam line)

Stretch
Back Inseam
evenly to
match
Front Inseam
I
n
s
e
a
m
I
n
s
e
a
m
(align edge
@ seam)
(match notches)
Knee Knee
Back Rise
Front Rise
B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee
* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseamshorter than
Front Inseam fromRise to Knee
(match notches)

Seam Details

Seam
allowance
(unless noted
otherwise in
spec pkg.)


STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES:

Blindstitch requirements:
Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio
Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design.
Overlap blindstitch by 1 and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine)
Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric.
Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.

With Hem Tape (Non-Stretch fabrics)
A15-7 Hem w/Taped Edge; Bendback; Blindstitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Hem Tape
Blindstitch
Set tape w/ Edgestitch
(No deep stitch pick )
1:1 stitch ratio

No Hem Tape (Stretch Fabrics, unless otherwise noted in Spec Pkg.)
A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; Blindstitch
Overedge
Blindstitch
(No deep stitch pick )
1:1 stitch ratio


STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued)

Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening)

A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch
(Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
CUFF
Stitch-tack
at Seams
(under cuff)
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m
HemTape & Blindstitch
(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
HemTape
& Blindstitch

A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch
(Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
CUFF
Stitch-tack
at Seams
(under cuff)
Overedge
& Blindstitch
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m

Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)

A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape &
Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Hem Tape & Blindstitch
CUFF
Stitch-tack
at Seams,
Frt & Bk
Creases
(under Cuff)
Outside Garment
Hem Tape
& Blindstitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m

Inside Garment
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
CUFF
Stitch-tack
at Seams,
Frt & Bk
Creases
(under Cuff)
A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish
(Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch
Overedge Finish
& Blindstitch


STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS:
Pattern Requirements
Lining pattern pieces each 1/8 larger than shell. Lining Hem Height: 5/8 Full Bendback: Lockstitch

Lining Attachment to Shell:
Inseam
Lining hem:
* Finish 3/4" above self hemedge
OR
* Center of shell hem
(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)
B8-1 Pant Lining- Crochet Thread Tack
1 1/2"
Crochet
thread
Lining
Note: See Spec Pkg for
Hemfinish.

B8-2 Skirt Lining- Crochet Thread Tack
Lining hem:
* Finish 3/4" above self hemedge
OR
* Center of shell hem
(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)
1 1/2"
Crochet
thread
Side Seam
Lining
Note: See Spec Pkg for
Hem finish.

STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:
Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end.
Leather and Suede - Stay button for all functional buttons.
B8-3 Outside Button Setting
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
Outside Button:
* Set w/ Lockstitch machine
* Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank)
* Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction.
Button Setting:
* 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole.
* 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch
(unless specified otherwise).

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B8-4 Inside Button Setting
Inside Button: * 2-Hole Button;
* Dyed to Match; Matte Finish
* Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole
* Stitch through inner layer only.


STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT:

Ann Taylor Stores
For Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1

B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)
* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband
Center Buttonhole on Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:

B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down from
top edge of Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for

LOFT & Factory Stores
For Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1

NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:
B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband

B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for


CONCEALED ZIPPER CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

These standards are to be used in the following product categories where concealed zippers are common:

Dresses
Skirts
Blouses
Pants

1. Ann Taylor has pre-approved 2 primary suppliers of concealed zippers, YKK & Coats-Opti. All concealed zippers should be
sourced from either of these brands.
2. It is preferred that Zippers are ordered to length.
3. Zippers cut to length must be secured and clean finished at the end with lining when used in product without a lining.
4. Shell fabric seam should be reinforced with interlining/stay tape prior to setting zipper.
5. Areas of bulk on the seam should be reduced by one of the following methods :
Medium-Heavyweight fabrics use open seams.
Lightweight fabrics: Open seams or if using closed seams press shell. seam allowance and lining seam allowance in
opposite direction
6. Lining should be set min from zipper teeth at inside.
7. Zipper tail should be tacked to shell on one side only
8. Clean finished Lining seam should be closed from below zipper opening at base.
9. Concealed zipper size will be specified by TD.

Suppliers are required to achieve the objective of a concealed zipper that performs its function satisfactorily at all times. If these
standards are at any time found to be either insufficient or impede the achievement of this objective the supplier is expected to raise
this concern to AT TD or QA.


STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 18 61)
ZIPPER CLOSURES:
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per SpecPkg
A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
per Spec Pkg

A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
per Spec Pkg

Invisible Zipper: Sealed at bottom Length: 1 1/2 longer than Opening Order to length do not cut to length.
per Spec Pkg
A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

SeamLine
Bottomof
Zipper
Interlining Width:
1/4" beyond
seamline
Interlining Length:
1" beyond
Zipper Opening
A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -
Pant / Skirt:

A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband
Inside of Waistband
* Clip seamallowance at 1" fromopening edge.
* Open press Waistband seamallowance1".
Press seamallowancetoward Waistband
w/ Zipper to top edge

Zipper Sealed End
Shell -
Inside of Garment
Lining
A4-4a Invisible Zipper -
Inner Construction; LINED
* Stitch Zipper Tape tail
to one seamallowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do not
stitch Zipper Tail to
seamallowance.
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2"
longer than
Zipper Opening

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam
Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Stitch Zipper Tape tail
to one seam allowance
seam allowance.
Inside of Garment
Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"
longer than
Zipper Opening

* Stitch Zipper Tape
tail to oneseamallowance
seamallowance.
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam
Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Safety Stitch seam
from2 1/2" below
Zipper Tail
* Press to Back or
Wearer's Left Back
Open Press for
Zipper Setting
Lockstitch
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer
than Zipper Opening


FLY CLOSURES:
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction
only.

See Spec Package for:
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down
from seam.
Bottom: maximum up
from Fly stitch.

F
l
y

S
e
a
m
Backstitch or
Edgestitch
(per Spec Pkg)
1 1/4"
Insidetop edge:
1/8" below
outsidetop edge
B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -
2 1/2"
Imaginary
Fly seamline
2 1/2"
Insideof Garment
Standard Measurements

* ReinforceFly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to bemaximum
1/8" aboveZipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper Spec Pkg
Insideof Garment
Raw edge
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Wearer's
Left Clean Finish
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg

Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction
only.

Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down
from seam.
Bottom: maximum up
from Fly stitch.
Insidetop edge:
B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband
Facing
Insideof Garment
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg
Wearer's
Left
1 1/4"
2 1/2"
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
Standard Measurments
1/8" below
outsidetop edge

Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg
Clean Finish
Edgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Wearer's
Left
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* SeeSpec Pkg
ButtonholeType
per Standard
w/ Button Closure


FLY CLOSURES: (continued)

Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom
(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE:
Sketch for Fly Construction only.

Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Inside / Outside Waistband Extension
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down from seam.
Bottom: maximum up from Fly
stitch.

1 1/2"
Wide,
Top
to
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Waist Band
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
Zipper Teethset 3/8"
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch CleanFinish
Fold
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack
11/2" Inside
Extension
CleanFinish

B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
fromFront Edge
CleanFinish Edgestitch
Fold
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
1" Extension
tocorner
3/4" Point
CleanFinish

Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closureper spec pkg
B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
No Inside Extension
* SeeSpec Pkgfor
WaistbandExtension
(spec, straight vspointedend)
CleanFinish



Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom

NOTE:

Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
stitch.

1 1/2"
Wide,
Top
to
Bottom
w/ Waist Band
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom;
Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End
Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch CleanFinish
Fold
11/2" Inside
Extension
OveredgeStitch

B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
fromFront Edge
CleanFinish Edgestitch
Fold
Outside of Garment
Insideof Garment
1" Extension
tocorner
3/4" Point
OveredgeStitch

Outsideof Garment
Insideof Garment
Fold
* NOTE: WaistbandFinish & Closureper spec pkg
B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom
No Inside Extension
* SeeSpec Pkgfor
WaistbandExtension
OveredgeStitch



Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension

NOTE:

Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
stitch.

1 1/2"
Wide,
Top
to
Bottom
w/ Waist Band
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
* NOTE: WaistbandFinish& Closureper Spec Pkg
B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension
w/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End
CleanFinish
fromFront Edge
Outside of Garment
Seamw/
Backstitch
OR
Edgestitch
Edgestitch
1 1/2" Inside
Extension
Insideof Garment

Insideof Garment
CleanFinish
fromFront Edge
Edgestitch
Outsideof Garment
* NOTE: WaistbandFinish& Closureper Spec Pkg
B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension
w/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End
Seamw/
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
3/4" Point
1" Extension
to corner

* SeeSpec Pkgfor
WaistbandExtension
Seamw/
Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension
Outsideof Garment
* NOTE: WaistbandFinish& Closureper spec pkg
Insideof Garment
Edgestitch
fromFront Edge
w/Outside Waistband Extension



Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure

NOTE:

Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure

Zipper Placement:
Top: maximum down from
seam.
stitch.
1 1/2"
Wide,
Top
to
Bottom
B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Facing
NOTE:
Facing Finish
per Spec Pkg.
F
l
y

S
e
a
m
Edgestitch

Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure
* Bartack to reinforce
Fly Opening
Fold
Waist Seam
Waist Seam
W
a
i
s
t

S
e
a
m

Ladies Fly Closure & Mens Fly Closures:
B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband
Outsideof Garment - Closed
NOTE: Waistbandw/ or
w/o Topstitching.
SeeSpec Pkg.

Outside of Garment - Closed
B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing
NOTE: Facing w/ or
w/o Topstitching.
SeeSpec Pkg.

B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband
* Note: All Construction Reverseof Ladies Closure
NOTE: Waistbandw/ or
w/o Topstitching.
SeeSpec Pkg.

NOTE: Facingw/ or
w/o Topstitching.
SeeSpec Pkg.
* Note: All Construction Reverseof Ladies Closure
B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing


WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
a. Waistband w/
Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/
Straight Outside Extension
B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish
Outside Views
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
c. Waistband w/
Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch

Clean Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
Turn
Back
Edge Seamallowance
Stay Tape
Inner Construction
Turn Back
Inner Waistband
Outer
WB
B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
See Spec Pkg for shape at
end of Waistband
Top
edge
seam

B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
SeeSpec Pkg for
Waistband end
Inside View
Seam allowance
Outer
WB
Clean Finish
Turn
Back
Edge
Inner Construction
Crackstitch
Inner Waistband
Turn Back
Top edge


WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Overedge Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
Overedge
Seam allowance
Overedge
Inner Construction
Outer
WB
B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Top
edge
seam
Stay Tape

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Clean Finish
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Inside View
Overedge
Inner Waistband
Crackstitch
Outer
WB
Overedge
Seam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge

Binding Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
3/16" Binding
Seam allowance
Binding
Outer
WB
Inner Construction
B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Top
edge
seam
Stay Tape
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;
Clean Finish
Inside View
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Binding
Inner Waistband
Crackstitch
Outer
WB
3/16" Binding
Seam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge


WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Waistband set to Lining
Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Backstitch
Crackstitch
Seam allowance
toward body
Seam allowance
Stay Tape
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
toward Lining
Outer
WB
Lining
Inner Waistband
Lining
B1-4a Contour Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch
SeeSpec Pkg for
Waistband end
Top
edge
seam

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Seam allowance
toward body
B1-4b Straight Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch
Lining
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowance
toward Lining
Seam allowance
Crackstitch
Outer
WB
Inner Construction
Lining
Top edge

WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:
See Spec Package Design Details for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
a. Waistband w/
Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/
Straight Outside Extension
B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched
Outside Views
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
c. Waistband w/
Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch


WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:

Clean Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View
Ope
nin
g
Edg
e
Clean Finish
Crackstitch
Turn
Back
Edge
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape at
end of Waistband
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
Inner Waistband
Outer
WB
Stay Tape
Raw Edge
Top
Edge
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Backstitch

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
Turn
Back
Edge
Crackstitch
Clean Finish
SeeSpec Pkg for shapeat
end of Waistband
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seamallowance
Outer
WB
Inner Construction
Raw Edge
Top edge
Backstitch
* SeeSpec Pkg for Closure

Overedge at Inside Edge

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
Clean
Finish
Crackstitch
Overedge
Inside View
B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
Overedge
Inner Waistband
Outer
WB
Seamallowance
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
end of Waistband
Top
Edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e
B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
end of Waistband
Inside View
Clean
Finish
Inner Waistband
Inner Construction
Overedge
Crackstitch
Outer
WB
Seamallowance
Overedge
Top edge
Backstitch
* SeeSpec Pkg for Closure


WAIST FACING OPTIONS:

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Waist Facing
Inside View
Overedge,
Bendback & Edgestitch
Backstitch
Inside of Waist Facing
Waist J oin Seam
Inner Construction
BottomEdge
of Facing
Stay Tape
Overedge,
Turnback &
Edgestitch
Backstitch
B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Inside View
Overedge
Facing Edge
Overedge
Waist J oin
Seam
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish
Backstitch

Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
3/16" Binding
Stay Tape
Binding @
Facing Edge
Inner Construction
Facing Seam
Backstitch
B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining)

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
B2-4 Waist Facing Finished w/ Lining
Lining
Waist Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Press
Toward
Lining
Facing/Lining
J oining Seam
Waist J oin Seam
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
Waist Facing - Inside
Facing/Lining
J oining Seam
Inside of Lining
Backstitch


OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Fold
Edgestitch
Binding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist
Binding
Waist J oin Seam
Stay Tape
Edgestitch
B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
Top
Edge of
Binding
Binding
Edgestitch
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Fold
Outside View

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Fold
Crackstitch
Binding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist
Binding
Waist J oin Seam
Stay Tape
Crackstitch
B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
Top
Edge of
Binding
Fold
Crackstitch
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Outside View



OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS (CONTINUED):

Inside View
O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
.
)
Lining
Topstitch
Top
Edge
Waist J oin
Seam
Inside of Garment
Stay Tape
Inside of Lining
Inner Construction
B2-6 Waist Lined to Top Edge

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
Clean Finish
(set Facing to
Lining w/ Topstitch)
B2-7a Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Clean Finished Edge
Lining
Waist Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Waistband J oin Seam
(Tapeas needed. SeeSpec Pkg)
Waist
Facing
Lining
to Waist
Edge
Topstitch (to set facing)
Lining to Waist Edge
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist Band
Waist Edge
J oining Seam
Backstitch

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B2-7b Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Overedge Finish
Backstitch
Lining
Topstitch Facing
to Lining
Waist Facing
Inside View
Liningto Waist Edge
Topstitch (to set facing)
Lining
to Waist
Edge
Waist
Facing Overedge
Waist Edge
J oining Seam
Inner Construction
Overedge
Insideof
Waistband


LEATHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B2-8a Leather - Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing
Topstitch Facing
to Lining
Raw Edge
Lining
Waist Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Waist Band J oin Seam
Raw
Edge
Waist
Facing
Lining
to Waist
Edge
Liningto Waist Edge
Topstitch (to set Facing)
Inner Construction
Inside of
Waist Band
Waist Edge
Joining Seam

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B2-8b Leather - No Waistband w/ Facing; Lined to Top Edge
Topstitch Facing
to Lining
Raw
Edge
Lining
Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Facing Raw
Edge
Lining
to Waist
Edge
Liningset to Top Edge
Topstitch (to set Facing)
Inner Construction
Waist Top EdgeJ oin Seam
(Stay tapeas needed. SeeSpec Pkg.)

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B2-9a Leather - Waistband w/Facing applied to Lining
Topstitch Facing
over Lining
Raw
Edge
Lining
Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Facing
Raw
Edge
Facing
Lining
w/
Overedge
Finish
Inner Construction
Waist Top EdgeJ oining Seam;
(Tapeas needed. SeeSpec Pkg.)
Lining w/ Overedge finish

O
p
e
n
i
n
g

E
d
g
e

(
S
e
e

S
p
e
c

P
k
g
)
B2-9b Leather - No Waistband; Facing applied to Lining
Topstitch Facing
over Lining
Raw
Edge
Lining
Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Facing
Raw
Edge
Facing
Lining
w/
Overedge
Finish
Inner Construction
Waist Top EdgeJ oining Seam;
(Tapeas needed. SeeSpec Pkg.)
Lining w/ Overedge finish


BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:

(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
B3-3b Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Outside Stitch-tack @ Top

(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
B3-3c Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Inside Stitch-tack

B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;
Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(1) Set into
Waistband
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack

B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;
Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack
(1) Set into
Waistband

B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge;
Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack
(4) Stitch-tack
(3) Reverse
Bendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set into
Waistband

B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge;
Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack
(4) Bartack
(3) Reverse
Bendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set into
Waistband


BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued):

B3-12 Set in Top Edge &
Waistband Join Seam
Set into
Waistband
Set into
Waistband Inside Stitch-tack

Press w/ Seam centered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seam at edge.
Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop

A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam

A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /
Tear Drop (at edge)

A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop (set in Seam)

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop
(set in Seam)


WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1a Back Welt Pocket -
No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
B5-1b Back Welt Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-1c Back Welt Pocket -
no Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
B5-1d Back Welt Pocket
w/ Edgestitch

Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts
B5-2a Back Besom Pocket -
No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
B5-2b Back Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-2c Back Besom Pocket -
no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Outside of Garment
B5-2d Back Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband


BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt & Besom Pockets - Front Pockets
Horizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).

B5-1e Front - Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - No Edgestitch
B5-1f Front Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

B5-2e Front Besom Pocket -
no Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
B5-2f Front Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment

POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET:

Pocket Bag Terms:
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Length:
4 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied
onto Pocket Bag
Version 2:
Self-Facing
1) Full Self
OR
2) w/Applied Self Facing
(seeSpec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Waistband stitch
Length:
3 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish
Length:
4 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
FacingAppliedonto
Pocket Bag
Version 2:
Self-Facing
1) Full Self Pocket Bag
OR
2) w/AppliedSelf Facing
(seeSpec PkgDetail sketch)
Fold
* Clean finish
* Seamallowance
enclosed
Backtack
corner
Backtack
corner
Fold
* Clean finish
* Seamallowance
enclosed
Waistband stitch
Length:
3 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length



BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets
Outside of Garment
B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket -
no Edgestitch
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w/ or w/o Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband

S
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Outside of Garment
B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
w/ or w/o Bartack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband

w/ or w/o Bartack
B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket -
no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
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Outside of Garment

w/ or w/o Bartack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
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Pocket Bag Terms:

Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment
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Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
1) Full Self
OR
Set
Facing
onto
Bag


ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical On Seam Pockets
Pocket Bag Terms:

Inside Stitch-tack
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B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening
w/ Inside Stitch-tack
Outside of Garment
w/ inside Stitch-tack
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Inside of Garment
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Waist Edge
Inside Stitch-tack

S
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Outside of Garment
w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Bartack
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
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Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening
w/ Bartack

See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Inside Stitch-tack
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Inside Stitch-tack
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Outside of Garment
w/ inside Stitch-tack
Waist Edge
Inside of Garment
* Topstitch Opening
* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.

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Outside of Garment
w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Bartack
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
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Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening
w/ Bartack
* Topstitch Opening
* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.




Vertical On Seam Pocket Facings

Backstitch
@
Opening
Edge
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F
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Inside of Garment
B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing;
Under Pocket bag
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F
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Top Pocket bag
Facing applied onto Pocket Bag
Stitch-tack or Bartack
SeeSpec Pkg - Detail sketch.
Waist Edge

Pocket Bag Terms:

SeeSpec Pkg - Detail sketch.
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B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing
Top & Under
Facings
extend from
Front & Back
Inside of Garment
Stitch-tack or
Bartack 1/2" down
fromWaist seam
Waist Edge



Horizontal / Angled On Seam Pockets
Pocket Bag Terms:

B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -
No Topstitch @ Opening
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
Pocket Opening
Backstitch along inside edge

Pocketing
Top Pocket Bag: 1 Pieceself or pocketing fabric. SeeSpec PkgTrimpg.
Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment
B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocketing
Under Pocket Bag
On-SeamPocket seam
Self-Applied
Facing
Clean Finish or Overedge
"Face" side of
Under Pocket Bag

B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -
Topstitch @ Opening
Pocket Opening
See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
* Edgestitch
OR
* Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch
** See Spec pkg

Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric.
See Spec Pkg Trimpg.
B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under
for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocket Bag
Inside of Garment
Seam


QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:

Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Inside Stitch-tack
1/2" up
Inside Stitch-tack
1/2" down
B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband
Waistband
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -
w/ or w/o Topstitching.

B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband
w/ Bartack
Bartack
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -
Waistband

Pocket Bag Terms:

B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband -
Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
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Waistband
Under Pocket
Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Self-Quarter TopPiece;
appliedontoPocketBag
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Pocket Bag
set intoWaist Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
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Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Waistband
Under Pocket
B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -
Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam
SeeSpecPkgfor Top
Pocket Bagfabrication
Pocket Bag
set intoWaist seam

Under Pocket
B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -
Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam
Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Waistband
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Pocket Bag
set intoWaist seam
Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
appliedontoPocket Bag



Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband
B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband
w/inside Stitch-tack
Waist Top Edge
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Outside of Garment
InsideStitch-tack
1/2" up
InsideStitch-tack
1/2" down
Pocket Opening -
SeeSpec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband
w/ Bartack
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S
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Outside of Garment
Waist Top Edge
Pocket Opening -
Bartack
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch

Pocket Bag Terms:

B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -
Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
appliedonto Pocket Bag
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Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
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S
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Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Waist Facing
Under Pocket
Pocket BagtoTopedge
B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -
Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
S
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S
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Under Pocket
SeeSpec Pkgfor Top
Pocket Bagfabrication
Waistband
Pocket Bagto
Topedge
S
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S
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Lining
or
Pocketingfabric

Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
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S
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Waist Facing
appliedontoPocket Bag
Lining
or
Pocketingfabric
Under Pocket
Pocket BagtoTopedge
B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -
Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam



L-Shape
Outside of Garment
B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -
No Topstitch
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Inside Seam
Waist Seam

B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -
Single Needle Topstitch
Single
Topstitch;
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
S
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w/ or w/o
Bartack;
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Inside Seam
Waist Seam

B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -
Double Needle Topstitch
Dbl Needle Topstitch
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
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w/ or w/o
Bartack;
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Seam or Stitched
through
Waist Seam

Pocket Bag Terms:

Self
Applied
to Pocket
Bag
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Facing
Pocketing
Top Pocket Bag
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Pocketing
Under Pocket Bag
Pocket Bags - Inner View
Under Pocket Bag
Reinforcement
stitch at Pocket
Opening
B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment
Backstitch
(except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch)
Inside Seam
Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment



Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag
Topstitch through all Layers;
B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell
Outside of Garment
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Inside of Garment
Topstitch
through all
Layers
Under
Pocket Bag
Full Bendback
w/ Topstitch
Waist Seam
Waist Seam

Scoop Pocket Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing
w/ or w/o
Topstitch
S
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Outside of Garment
Waist Seam

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Inside of Garment
Self Applied
to Pocket Bag
Applied to
Pocketing
Top Pocket Bag
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Facing
Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)
Backstitch
B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction
Waist Seam
Under Pocket Bag
Top Pocket Bag


QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:

Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions:

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Under Pocket
Waist Seam
4 3/4"
8 1/2"
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seamto Seam
6 1/2"
B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband

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6 1/2"
B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 3/4"
Under Pocket
8 1/2" from
Waistline position

B5-14c Short Pocket Bag
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Under Pocket
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 1/2"
5 1/2"
6 1/2"
Waist Seam


PATCH POCKET OPTIONS:
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail

B5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch -
Lined or Unlined
Raw edge
w/ or w/o
Staystitch
Seamed
inside

B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch -
Lined or Unlined
Raw edge
w/ or w/o
Staystitch
Seamed
inside

Single
Bendback
Rawedge
w/ or w/o
Overedge
Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting

B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge
Lined to Top edge
Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
Lining

PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS:

OutsideView InsideView
1" Bendback Facing
Lining
B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing -
Lined

OutsideView
1" Bendback Facing
InsideView
Overedge&
Topstitched
B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing
w/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

1" Bendback Facing
InsideView
Clean Finish
(bendback Facing
seamallowance)
& Topstitched
OutsideView
B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing
w/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing
- Unlined
OutsideView
Clean Finish
& Topstitched
Full Bendback Facing;
SeeSpec pkg
for Topstitch detail.
InsideView


PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:
Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Outside View Inside View
Lining
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)
B5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing -
Lined
See Spec Pkg
for Facing
Height
OutsideView
InsideView
Overedge&
Topstitched
B5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;
Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
Backstitch(if notTopstitched)
SeeSpec Pkg
for Facing
Height
InsideView
Clean Finish
& Topstitched
OutsideView
Backstitch(if notTopstitched)
B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;
Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
SeeSpec Pkg
for Facing
Height

PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS:
Triangle Stitch
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)
B5-20a Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner

Rectangle Stitch
B5-20b Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

Diagnal Stitch
B5-20c Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

Horizontal Stitch
B5-20d Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

Horizontal
Bartack
B5-20e Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:
Diagonal
Bartack
B5-20f Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

Vertical Bartack
B5-20g Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)

Waist Seam
B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening;
Self Facing - Lined
Outsideof Garment
Self Facing
Backstitch
if needed
Insideof Pocket (beforeset)
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S
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Lining

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S
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B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening;
Self Facing - Unlined
Insideof Pocket (beforeset)
Waist Seam
Self Facing
Outsideof Garment
Bendback
Finish


POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:

Welt Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Flap set in upper
Welt seam
B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
Underflap:
Bias
Seespec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Backstitch
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
Underflap:
Bias
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Underflap:
Bias
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
Backstitch
B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
SeeSpec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
Waist Seam
Underflap:
Bias

Besom Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
Backstitch
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch
B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam
Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
Backstitch
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch

B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam
Waist Seam



Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Flap Front Pockets
Horizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch)
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
B6-1e Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
Underflap:
Bias
Outside of Garment
Backstitch
Outside of Garment
B6-1f Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
Underflap:
Bias
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail

Outside of Garment
B6-2e Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
No Topstitch
Backstitch
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch
B6-2f Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
SeeSpec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
* w / or w/o
Bartack
Seespec pkg -
Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:
Bias
Flap set in
Besomupper
Seam

POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET W/ FLAP:

Pocket Bag Terms:

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Length:
4 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied
onto Pocket Bag
Version 2:
Self-Facing
1) Full Self
OR
Waistband stitch
Length:
3 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish
Length:
4 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
FacingAppliedonto
Pocket Bag
Version 2:
Self-Facing
1) Full Self Pocket Bag
OR
2) w/AppliedSelf Facing
(seeSpec PkgDetail sketch)
Fold
* Clean finish
* Seamallowance
enclosed
Backtack
corner
Backtack
corner
Fold
* Clean finish
* Seamallowance
enclosed
Waistband stitch
Length:
3 1/2" fromupper
Welt seam
B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length



Patch Pocket w/ Flap
B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap -
No Topstitch at Edge
Raw edge
enclosed
Under Flap:
Bias
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed
& Stitch-tack at ends

& Stitch-tack at ends
* See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched
Stitch-tack at Flap corners
Under Flap:
Bias
Raw Edge
Enclosed

B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched
Bartack at Flap corners
Raw Edge
Enclosed
* See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
& Bartack at ends
Under Flap:
Bias

Under Flap Bias Cut

Bias
Underflap:
*Cut smaller than outer flap.
*Cut on bias.
B6-5 Under Flap -
Pattern & Cutting Direction


POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS:

Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure
Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button
& Vertical Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/o
Edgestitch / Bartack
SeeSpec Pkg -
Detail sketch

B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button
& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/o
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch

B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button
& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Besomw/ or w/o
Topstitch / Bartack
SeeSpec Pkg -
Detail sketch

B7-2b Besom Pocket w/
Button & Loop Closure
Outside of Garment
* Besomw/ or w/o
* See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch

Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button Closure
B7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical
Wide Flap & Button Closure
WideFlapw/
Vertical
ButtonHole
* w/ or without Topstitching
* SeeSpecPkgDesignDetails

B7-3b Besom Pocket w/
Narrow Flap & Button Closure
Narrow Flap
w/ Horizontal
ButtonHole
* SeeSpec PkgDesignDetails

B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap &
Button Closure
WideFlapw/
Vertical
ButtonHole
* SeeSpecPkgDesignDetails

Narrow Flap
w/ Horizontal
ButtonHole
B7-3d Welt Pocket w/
Narrow Flap & Button Closure
* SeeSpec PkgDesignDetails

Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure
B7-4a Patch Pocket w/Vertical
Buttonhole & Button Closure
Seespec pkg for
* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail
* Bartack

B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal
Buttonhole & Button Closure
Seespec pkg for
* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail
* Bartack

Seespec pkg for
* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail
* Bartack
B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap
Vertical Buttonhole &
Button Closure

B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap
HoriztonalButtonhole &
Button Closure
Seespec pkgfor
* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail
* Bartack


SLITS:

Note: See Spec Pkg. for Slit Height & Hem stitch (Hem Topstitch may finish above top of Slit Opening).

A14-1a Slit-Clean Finish w/Full Bendback Hem -
No Tack
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Full Bend
Back
Seam-Clean
Finish
Topstitch
Inside Garment Outside Garment
A14-1b Slit-Clean Finish w/Full Bendback Hem -
Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Topstitch
Outside Garment
Seam-Clean
Finish
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Inside Garment
Full Bend
Back
Stitch-tack
A14-1c Slit-Clean Finish w/Full Bendback Hem -
Bartack at Top of Slit
Outside Garment
Seam-Clean
Finish
S
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Inside Garment
Full Bend
Back
Topstitch
Bartack
A14-2a Slit-Clean Finish w/ Partial Bendback Hem -
No Tack
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* Partial Bend Back
* 1/2" Bendback
Seam-Clean
Finish
Topstitch

Seam-Clean
Finish
Topstitch
* Partial Bend Back
* 1/2" Bendback
Inside Garment
A14-2b Slit-Clean Finish w/ Partial Bendback Hem -
Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
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Stitch-tack

Seam-Clean
Finish
Topstitch
* Partial Bend Back
* 1/2" Bendback
Inside Garment
A14-2c Slit-Clean Finish w/ Partial Bendback Hem -
Bartack
Outside Garment
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Bartack

A14-3a Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched - No Tack
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Seam- Clean Finish
Seam
Blind Stitch

Outside Garment
A14-3b Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Seam
Overedge
Seam- Clean Finish
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
A14-3c Slit-Clean Finish w/Single Bendback Hem &
Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Seam
Overedge
Seam- Clean Finish
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack



Slits (continued):


A14-5a Slit - Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Overedge
*See spec pkg for HemStitch
Outside Garment
A14-5b Slit - Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Overedge
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
A14-5c Slit - Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
Overedge
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Inside Garment
S
e
a
m
Bartack Bartack

A14-6a Slit w/Bendback Facing & Mitered Corner;
Lined - No Tack
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Lining Lining
Mitered Corner

Lining
Mitered Corner
*Seespec pkg for HemStitch
Lining
A14-6b Slit w/Bendback Facing & Mitered Corner;
Lined; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m

Lining
Mitered Corner
Lining
A14-6c Slit w/Bendback Facing & Mitered Corner;
Lined - Bartack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
S
e
a
m
Bartack Bartack

A14-7a Slit-Bendback Facing;
Cleanfinish w/Lining - No Tack
Blindstitch
S
e
a
m
Lining
Blindstitch
Overedge
Seam
Lining

Overedge
Blindstitch
A14-7b Slit-Bendback Facing;
Cleanfinish w/Lining; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Lining
Outside Garment
Blindstitch
S
e
a
m
Lining
Inside Garment
Seam
Stitch-tack
Overedge
Blindstitch
A14-7c Slit-Bendback Facing;
Lining
Outside Garment
Blindstitch
S
e
a
m
Lining
Inside Garment
Seam Bartack Bartack
Cleanfinish w/Lining - Bartack at Top of Slit


Slits (continued):


A14-8a Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
S
e
a
m
Overedge
Mitered Corner
Blind Stitch
Mitered Corner
Outside Garment
A14-8b Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
Blindstitched ; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Overedge
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Mitered Corner
Outside Garment
A14-8c Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner;
Overedge
Blind Stitch
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack

A14-10a Slit - Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Glued - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Seam
Glued
Mitered Corner
Lining

Lining
Mitered Corner
Glued
A14-10b Slit - Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Glued; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Seam
Bartack
Lining
Mitered Corner
Glued
A14-10c Slit - Bendback Facing w/Mitered Corner;
Glued - Bartack
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Inside Garment
Seam
Bartack

A14-11a Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
S
e
a
m
Seam
Overedge
Blind Stitch
Backstitch
Attached Facing
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-11b Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
Blindstitched - Stitch-tack
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Stitch-tack
Stitch-tack
A14-11c Slit-Attached Facing w/Overedge &
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
Outside Garment
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Bartack
Bartack


Slits (continued):

A14-12a Slit - Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
S
e
a
m
Bend Back
Attached Facing
Backstitch
Blind Stitch
Seam
A14-12b Slit - Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
Blindstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
Backstitch
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Seam
Bend Back
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack
A14-12c Slit-Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
S
e
a
m
Outside Garment
Backstitch
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Seam
Bend Back
Inside Garment
Bartack Bartack

A14-13a Slit-Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Overedge
Backstitch
Attached Facing
Seam
Blind Stitch
Seam
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Top Stitch
Backstitch
Overedge
A14-13b Slit-Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
Topstitched ; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
Stitch-tack

Seam
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Top Stitch
Backstitch
Overedge
A14-13c Slit-Attached Facing w/ Bendback Edge &
Topstitched - Bartack
Bartack
Bartack

A14-14a Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched - No Tack
S
e
a
m
Top Stitch
Blind Stitch
Attached Facing
Seam
Overedge
Backstitch

Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-14b Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Top Stitch
Seam
Stitch-tack Stitch-tack Stitch-tack
Overedge
Attached Facing
Backstitch
A14-14c Slit-Attached Facing w/ Overedge &
Topstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
S
e
a
m
Blind Stitch
Top Stitch
Seam
Bartack Bartack


VENTS:

A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched
Inside Garment
Outside Garment
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
Seam
With or without Tack
(seeSpec Pkg.)
Topstitch
Full Dbl Bendback
S
e
a
m
*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hemtype

A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched
S
e
a
m
Topstitch
Lining
Dbl Bendback
w/Topstitch
S
e
a
m
Backstitch
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
Open Bottom
Blocked Hem

A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch
InsideGarment OutsideGarment
C
t
r

B
a
c
k

S
e
a
m
Lining
Dbl Bendback
w/Topstitch
C
t
r

B
a
c
k

S
e
a
m
Backstitch
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
OpenBottom
Blocked Hem
Topof Vent

VENT & SLIT X TACK:

NOTE: Sketch is for X Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details.
A14 Slit-"X" Tack
* No tack if fabric
will be damaged
from tack.
Top of Slit
for Shipping

OutsideGarment
S
e
a
m
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack
for Shipping
V
e
n
t

E
d
g
e
"X" Tack for Shipping


BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:

Folded
A6-1 Full Clean Finish
w/Edgestitch

A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside of
Garment
Inside of
Garment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/
Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note:
No Backstitch if
edge is Topstitched

BUTTONHOLES:
A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)

Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)
Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -
Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole

A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside
Underside
(looks sameas Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp
(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight
Buttonhole

A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole -
Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -
Vertical
Seam


ZIPPER TERMS:
Note: See Specification Pkg. for Right or Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.
(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -
2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -
Invisible type
Sealed
End
Sealed
at Top

TapeEnds
Stringer
Cord
Bead
BottomStop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
SeparablePin
Retainer Pin
Opened
Tape
Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape
Width
Chain
Width
Length of
Fastener
Zipper Dimension Terms


HOOK & EYE TYPES:

A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye

A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper

A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slide edge
1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper

A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slide edge
1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper


LOOP & FROG CLOSURES:

A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -
Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop -
Kissing Setting

A10-7b Button Loop -
Open Setting

A10-7c Button Loop -
Closed Setting

Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure

OTHER CLOSURES:

A11-2a Hook & Bar
a. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/
Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar
b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape
Loop Tape


DECORATIVE STITCHES:
DST-1 Pearl Stitch
Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.

DST-2 Shell Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch to formthread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Shell Stitch
Inside Garment

* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have
wavy Lettuce leaf edge.
* See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
Outside Garment
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
Lettuce Edge
Surging Stitch
Inside Garment

DST-4 Picot Stitch
Outside Garment
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch
formed just off edge.
Picot Stitch

DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting
*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges.
*See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
Two Needle Fagoting

DTS-6 Pick Stitch
*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacing
may be even or uneven.
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.


DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch
* Stitch Length and Spacing
are equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.

* Overedge stitch.
* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside
Step 2 - Underside
Seamat top of tuck
Double Needle w/
Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside
* closes fold
* creates tuck
* See Spec Pkg
for Tuck Height
Seamat top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking

Construction Bottoms (Lined and Unlined)

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Construction Bottoms (Lined and Unlined)

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Ann Taylor

Ann Taylor Loft

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