Improved Apparel Sizing - Fit and Anthropometric 3D Scan Data PDF

NTC Project: S04-CR01
1
SO4-CR01 Improved Apparel Sizing: Fit and Anthropometric 3D Scan Data
http://www.ntcresearch.org/projectapp/index.cfm?project=S04-CR01
http://www.bodyscan.human.cornell.edu

Primary Investigators: Susan Ashdown (leader) & Suzanne Loker, Cornell;
Margaret Rucker, UC-Davis
Project Managers: Lindsay Lyman-Clarke, Erica Carnrite
Graduate Students: Adriana Petrova, Sanchit Tiwari, Fatma Baytar, Hwa Kyung Song,
Tasha Lewis, Eui Choi, Jian-Guo Cao, Jennifer Cohen,
GOAL
To extend and improve our fit analysis process, establish our sample of 203 women as
statistically representative of the USA population using SizeUSA scan data, to further develop
the mathematical model of fit analysis derived from our sample, and to recommend a process by
which apparel firms can interpret and apply body scan data in the development and assessment
of their pattern making, grading, and sizing systems.

ABSTRACT
This project extends earlier research by developing methodologies for applying a combination of
fit data and anthropometric population data to the problem of developing effective sizing systems
for apparel products. We identify sets of critical measurements for effective sizing for specific
target markets and the process to apply them in the development of base patterns, grade rules,
and sizing systems. These objective measures of the target population can be used to refine the
traditional method of pattern and sizing system development based on one fit model, standard
grade rules, and descriptive demographic data, such as age and income. We have focused our
work on the last two objectives of this study this year:
1. Link our mathematical model of fit analysis based on scan data to anthropometric data of
the U.S. population.
A. Establish relationships between body characteristics of that portion of the target
market that are poorly fitted and a statistically representative sample of the target
market in the U.S. population.
B. Determine each possible pattern making and grading decision variable in the sizing
system that improves fit for the greatest number of targeted individuals from the
population.
2. Extend and improve our fit analysis process based on scans of different target markets and
apparel styles.
3. Identify and generalize critical scan measurements, anthropometric data, analysis methods,
and strategies in order to develop a process by which apparel firms can interpret body scan
data to optimize an existing sizing system for a specific target market.
BACKGROUND
One of the greatest challenges facing apparel companies today is finding a cost-effective method
to provide quality fit in apparel. Repeatedly studies of degree of satisfaction with apparel have
found that about 50% of women cannot find satisfactorily fitting clothes [1,2]. Lack of good fit
is often the reason given by consumers for deciding not to purchase clothing, and it is estimated
National Textile Center Annual Report: November 2007
2
that as much as 35% of clothing purchased from catalogs is returned because of problems with fit
[3].
The creation of an effective ready-to-wear sizing system is a complex undertaking. The great
variation in sizes and shapes of people in the population and the need to keep stock keeping units
(SKUs) to a minimum in order to control inventory costs are in direct conflict with one another.
Because of the variation in the population, a change in the base pattern shape or the grading of a
pattern has the potential to improve the fit of the garment for one segment of the population at
the expense of another segment.

Two issues have limited the ability of apparel companies to make informed decisions about their
sizing systems. First, there is a lack of data on fit characteristics of garments for a variety of
different body sizes and shapes. Second, there has been a lack of current anthropometric data to
describe the civilian population. Apparel companies typically only attempt to fit one body type,
developing base patterns and grade rules matching the proportions of their fit model. The fit
model is chosen to represent the target market but little information is available to help choose a
fit model with the appropriate body characteristics. The marketing of apparel typically focuses
on the age, income, and lifestyle choices of the target market, which are not necessarily a
predictor of body size and shape. Three-dimensional scanning systems can provide both
anthropometric and fit information but the tools and processes to analyze and apply these data
are still needed. Developing quantitative models of fit applicable to multiple target markets and
styles, and new analysis processes that link fit data and anthropometric data will ultimately result
in better sizing and fit methodologies. The creation of better sizing systems for the apparel
industry will result in a reduction in unsold or discounted garments.

The 3-D body scanner is contributing to research for the apparel industry and holds promise to
revolutionize the way apparel is manufactured and sold. Two anthropometric surveys of the
civilian U.S. population (CAESAR and Size USA) [4,5] using this technology have been
conducted. These are the first attempts to collect anthropometric data from a representative U.S.
adult population relevant to apparel since the 1940s and are made possible with body scanning
technology. These data have the potential to provide new insights into issues of sizing and fit of
apparel. The apparel industry has not had access to reliable, representative data from body scans,
so tools and methodologies to harrness, apply, and interpret this information are critically needed
6].

Our current work, funded primarily with two NTC-funded projects [7,8], is distinctive in focus
as we:
a) apply multiple types of measurements--circumference (linear), surface and slice areas,
and volumes--only available with 3D scan data to the study of apparel fit,
b) merge scans to visualize misfit and to consider both visual and statistical analyses of
fit by comparing scans with minimal clothes and test garments, and
c) concentrate on target markets and improving fit with current ready-to-wear sizing
systems used by individual apparel firms.
Our approach has applied both the numeric and visual data acquired from 3D body scanners to
improve the fit of ready-to-wear apparel using the model presented in Figure 1.

3

METHODOLOGY AND PROGRESS
We are building on our previous work to improve current
ready-to-wear sizing systems by developing protocols and
methodologies to analyze fit based on fit analysis of garments
from an existing sizing system. In doing so, we are using new
measurementssurface and slice area and volumethat
garner the power of scan data. Our three major are:
refining our mathematical model of apparel fit using
3D computer modeling that interprets scan data in
order to apply it directly to the pattern making and
grading processes used by individual apparel firms;

scanning, analyzing scans, and testing new protocols
with different target markets and active body
positions; and

testing the reliability of expert fit assessments using
virtual scan visualizations;

Figure 1: Use of body scan data to improve apparel fit

Mathematical Model Using Scan Data to Test Apparel Fit

We tried several approaches to develop a mathematical model that describes the acceptable fit of
a pair of test pants using mathematical formulas to describe body and pants measurements
derived from our data base of body scans. The final model is based on a series of general
equations derived from 3D geometric shapes to model body and garment configurations. For
example, the crotch height required four equations, one of which described the front rise using an
elliptical arc length to define the waist height to abdomen height arc. A series of equations were
combined to craft a mathematical model describing the lower body measurements contributing to
acceptable apparel fit (Figure 2). Based on our initial modeling results, we were able to decrease
the number of linear and 3D body and pant measurement variables from 34 to 18.

The mathematical model was developed using Matlab software and identifies the changes in pant
measurements required to increase the number of target market members that will achieve
acceptable fit using
1. pattern specifications of a graded set of test pants
2. acceptable ease measurements and tolerances of 18 different body measurements,
including surface area, slice area, and volume data that are derived from fit data from the
initial study
3. body measurements from a set of scans in a database of target market members
a. one set for whom acceptable fit was achieved with the current specifications
b. one set for whom acceptable fit was not achieved.

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The mathematical model is designed to indicate the percentage of people, within a given scan
data base, that will fit into a companys sizing system. The model compares the 18 body
measurements from a persons scan, that we have determined are most important to achieving
acceptable pant fit, with the same 18 measures from the test pants to determine the quality of fit.
The program generates the percentage of scans in the data base that fit well in the pants. After an
initial run with the original inputted pants specifications, measurement specifications at targeted
areas can be changed in order to find the pant specifications that allow the largest percentage of
the target market scan data base to find acceptable fit within the sizing system. The program
iteratively runs through the whole process until an acceptable percentage of the target market is
fit with the chosen measurement specifications. The results can then be applied to alter the
production pants patterns. The goal is to identify the optimum change in pant measurement
specifications for improved fit of the target market based on these results and other business
considerations such as variation in style, fit and number of sizes in a firms sizing system.

Figure 2. Ideal pant model based on 3D geometric equations

Our 3D geometric modeling method shows promise and confirms the feasibility of this approach.
It will be tested on other test pants for the same target market and revised.

Comparing Body Measurements for Active Positions: Standing and Seated Scans

We conducted a study to measure the change in body measurements between sitting and standing
positions. Following a pilot test to develop research protocols, forty-nine subjects in the target
market, aged 34-55, were scanned six times in minimal clothing. Four scans were taken in the
sitting position to capture all necessary breadth and thigh landmarks and two scans were required
to capture data and landmarks in the standing position. The 3D scans were transferred from the
Human Solutions scan system to Innovmetrics Polyworks software suite for processing.
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Polyworks IMEdit was used to set planes and create cross sections and Polyworks IMInspect
was used to align cross sections into one plane for measurement.

Figure 3. Standing and seated postures used for comparison.

A variety of methods for categorizing body shape were tested. The method that divided the
study participants into the most distinct categories of body circumference and body breadth
dimensions was body mass index (BMI = mass/height2 [kg/m2]). Therefore, subjects were
divided into four groups based on their BMI values (we had no subjects in underweight
category). Table 1 displays the results of the seven body measurements. Increases in the waist,
hip, and thigh circumferences in the seated position were significantly different between the
normal group and obese II group and show considerable variation in the mean scores. The crotch
length is the only measurement to decrease in the seated position, though with no significant
differences among groups. Hip and crotch measurement results as well as significant differences
in waist and thigh measurements point to the difficult fitting issues when considering the variety
of body positions and movements.

The results of these analyses will be used to adjust existing patterns and pattern systems to
improve fit for pants during wear in many positions. General conclusions that can be drawn
include.
Circumferences and breadths increase between the standing and seated position,
while crotch lengths decrease.
The data generally shows greater differences in measurements as BMI increases with
the normal weight classification significantly different from one or more of the
overweight classifications in all measures except crotch length.
6
Significant differences in measurement changes from the standing to seated positions
occur at all measurement areas with the most significant differences, p0.01, at waist
circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference and thigh breadth
5.170
**
0.418 0.175
normal 12.7 8.2
a
overweight 6.4 2.6
b
obese I 30.9 34.1
obese II 42.1 35.4
ab
10.330
**
0.52 0.27
normal 64.7 64.2
ab
overweight 110.8 107.2
a
obese I 93.5 80.6
obese II 126 119
b
7.070
**
0.535 0.286
normal 56.5 60.2
a
obese I 99.9 90.2
obese II 125.5 151.1
a
2.838
*
-0.251 0.063
normal -42 -39.9
overweight -28 -31.8
obese I -58 -60.2
obese II -51 -52.4
4.438
*
0.383 0.146
normal 1.9 0.2
a
overweight -1.5 -2.3
b
obese I 0.9 4
obese II 7 10.4
ab
4.725
*
0.222 0.049
normal 21.6 20.7
a
a
obese I 28.1 22.3
obese II 33.8 29.1
17.605
**
0.712 0.507
normal 29.5 30.4
abc
overweight 56 52.5
a
obese I 58.3 56.4
b
obese II 74.3 69.2
c
Median R2 Mean F Pearson
Differences
in millimeters
Waist circumference
Hip circumference
Thighs circumference
Crotch length
Waist breadth
Hip breadth
Thighs breadth
**
p 0.01,
*
p 0.05
N = 48 [underweight: N=0; normal: N=24; overweight: N=12; obese I: N=5; obese II: N=7]
Results of multiple ANOVA comparisons are indicated using a common superscript to show pairs of groups with significantly
different means.

Table 1. Significant differences in change in body measurements between seated and standing
positions.

Scanning New Target Markets
A number of scans representing new target markets were taken and added to our scan data bases.
Analyses of the scan process, participant reactions, body type,and size, and garment style and fit
have contributed to greater understanding of diverse target markets.
Fifty female teens between the ages of 10 and 15 were scanned during several on-campus events
for teenagers sponsored by the Cornell Cooperative Extension 4-H Office. The teens were
scanned in the Human Solutions scanner in the standard position wearing a Lycra scan suit over
their underwear garments. These scans will be analyzed to develop a better understanding of this
target markets body shape, especially as compared to our older female scan data.
7

Eleven male and female subjects were scanned using our portable TC
2
scanner in conjunction
with measurements made by a professional tailor, from Macways Tailors, to create patterns for
custom fitted suits, shirts, pants, and sport coats. The differences between the scan measurements
and those taken by a professional tailor will be generated from these data, and the body scans
have been added to the main database.

Methods of ensuring that scans taken using scanners from two different manufacturers, Human
Solutions and TC2, are valid for analysis using the same range of software tools are also being
developed.

A scan study was conducted with an industry partner, Endurance LLC, of New York. Endurance
manufactures Joseph Abboud Jeanswear. For this study 120 men between the ages of 25 and 55
years were scanned in a local retail store using a portable TC
2
scanner. Appropriate consent was
collected so that these scan measurements can also be added to our data base. These and the
Macways scans are the first male scan data in our project and will be analyzed to develop a
preliminary understanding of the significant body measurements for men in this targeted age
group.

In preparation for a scanning event focused on protective coverall fit in active working positions,
a total of 57 subjects, 18 in California and 39 in New York, from different occupational groups
were interviewed, photographed and given questionnaires addressing clothing fit and function to
complete. Data have been compiled and the photographs have been analyzed to gain a better
understanding of typical working positions and how coverall fit issues may differ with common
deviations from the standard anthropometric standing position. A set of typical working positions
have been identified to be used in a scan study of coverall fit in active positions.

Women aged 26 to 55 in a range of sizes were scanned for a study of the fit of womens jackets.
A custom-fitted princess style jacket was created for each participant in the study from a twill
fabric, perfecting the fit of each jacket with multiple fittings. Scans of the women minimally
clothed and in the custom fitted jackets will add to our knowledge of ease values in garments for
the upper body.

In a study conducted with collaborator Nike Apparel, 73 college women age 18 to 29 were
scanned minimally clothed and in a Nike ready-to-wear jacket. Custom jackets were made for 37
of the participants of the study to investigate style and fit preferences of this demographic for an
upper body garment. Participants preferred a close fitting jacket and a longer length than that
preferred by the older demographic that was Nikes original target market.

Visual Analysis of Fit

We developed methods to visually analyze fit using 3-D scans of clothed subjects. Then, we
determined the reliability of the fit ratings at different body areas to establish the number of
judges needed for reliable results overall. Analysis of the fit of womens test pants was
conducted on 153 scans of women aged 35 to 55 years old. Five judges rated the fit of test pants
at 15 different lower body areas.
8

Figure 4. Visual analysis of 3-D scans can be used to asses fit, as stress folds and the balance of
the garment are clearly visible in the scanned image.

Data were analyzed to find 1) subject to subject variance and 2) variance due to the judges.
To determine how many judges are needed to perform a reliable fit analysis, the reliability based
on subject to subject variability (
s
2
) and variability between the judges (
j
2
) were calculated
using the equation:
Reliability =
s
2

s
2
+ (
j
2
/ # judges )
A reliability analysis using Cronbachs alpha was performed to determine consistency or
reliability across judges ratings of fit: overall, front, back, and individual area ratings.

Subject to subject variance
An analysis was conducted using a multilevel model to assess non-independent repeated ratings
by judge and subject. The same group of 153 subjects was rated at 15 different body areas.

Table 2. Variance and reliability results from the multilevel model

without
covariates
with covariates
residual 2.006 1.457
judge 0.119 0.119 VARIANCE
subject 0.370 0.308
5 judges 0.940 0.928
4 judges 0.926 0.912
3 judges 0.903 0.886
RELIABILITY
2 judges 0.862

0.838

Without considering covariates (i.e., size, area, front or back), reliability of the judges was
acceptable (above .80); even with only two judges, the reliability was high at 0.862. When
covariates were taken into account, reliability decreased only slightly for two judges to 0.838.
9
Our conclusion is that only two judges are needed for reliable fit tests if visual fit parameters are
established and clearly defined for the judges.

Variance due to judge
Cronbachs alpha values were used to determine reliability across judges ratings.

Table 3. Cronbachs alpha values for each area.
AREA
All Front Back

Cronbachs Alpha with 5
Judges
0.831 0.824 0.828
Judge 1 0.757 0.749 0.750
Judge 2 0.859 0.855 0.858
Judge 3 0.792 0.790 0.789
Judge 4 0.783 0.771 0.779
Alpha if item
deleted
Judge 5 0.789 0.779 0.785

Cronbachs alpha values were evaluated to test whether retaining any specific judge was better
than another. Taken as a whole, the judges reliability scores (Cronbachs alpha = 0.831) were
acceptable (above .80). Alpha values for the front and back ratings respectively, 0.824 and 0.828,
were also acceptable. Judges were consistent in their ratings overall, ranging from 0.757 to
0.859, so any combination of two judges would have the same fit analysis results.
Cronbachs alpha was used for further analysis to identify the most consistently rated body areas.

Table 4. Cronbachs alpha values for specific body areas.
AREA
CRONBACH'S
ALPHA
Waist Front 0.912
Waist Back 0.832
Waist Placement Front -0.040
Waist Placement Back -0.060
Abdomen Front 0.857
Abdomen Back 0.856
Hip Front 0.739
Hip Back 0.849
Crotch Front 0.680
Crotch Back 0.510
Below Butt 0.871
Thigh Front 0.835
Thigh Back 0.849
Overall Front 0.898
Overall Back 0.737

Ratings for most body areas indicated high reliability ranging from 0.737 for overall back to
0.912 for waist front. Front and back crotch ratings were less consistent (0.680 and 0.510
respectively). Rating crotch fit is difficult, as visual cues to crotch misfit are subtle and
complicated by interactions with fit at other areas. Front and back waist placement ratings were
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negative which is highly unusual (-0.04 and -0.06 respectively). Subsequent discussions with the
judges revealed that the scale was interpreted differently by each judge indicating the need for
discussion and agreement on the meaning of scales among judges prior to rating.

We found that two judges are sufficient for reliable ratings for most body areas if fit parameters
and the instrument scale are established and clearly defined for the judges. Based on the
unreliability of the crotch area ratings, we concluded that different assessment methodology may
be required for the crotch and other complex areas of misfit that are difficult to rate visually.

NEXT STEPS
Although this is the final year for and S04-CR01 Improved Apparel Sizing: Fit and
Anthropometric 3D Scan Data, our research will continue on the development of a mathematical
model, scanning new target markets, and visual fit analysis of body scans.

We will test our mathematical model by changing garment patterns, scanning the original
subjects to test the fit and see whether it improved, modifying the model, and testing it on other
pant styles and other garments. Once the model works acceptably, the focus will be on
developing software that can be easily used by apparel firms to improve apparel fit of their
specific products for their target markets using the model.

Our visual fit assessment research will focus on designing, testing, and implementing a tool for
apparel firms to collect and analyze visual data on the fit of their products across the full range of
sizes of their target market customers using the 3D scanner and other image capture tools.
Visual modes appropriate for apparel professionals will be assessed and selected, visual data
collected and process code written for software development. We will also continue to scan new
target markets to refine our protocols, visual and statistical analysis techniques, and applications
to pattern making and grading procedures in the industry.

REFERENCES
1. LaBat, K. L. Improving garment fit - A challenge for industry. American Society for Quality Control Congress
Transactions, Toronto, Canada, 1989;377-382.
2. Goldsberry, E.; Shim, S.; and Reich, N. "Women 55 years and older: Part II. Overall satisfaction and
dissatisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear." Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 14 (1996): 121-132.
3. "Sizing up virtual fit technology." http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/VirtualFit.html June 30, 2001.
4. Society of Automotive Engineers. "CAESAR: Civilian American and European Surface Anthropometry Resource
Project." http://www.sae.org/technicalcommittees/caesarhome.htm August 29, 2003.
5. [TC]
2
. "Info." http://www.sizeusa.com/info.html August 29, 2003.
6. DesMarteau, K. "CAD: Let the fit revolution begin." Bobbin, vol 42, 2000;42-56.
7. Ashdown, S. P.; Loker, S.; and Adelson, C. "Use of body scan data to design sizing systems
based on target markets." Annual Report S01-CR01 (formerly S01-B01): National Textile
Center, 2002.
8. Ashdown, S. P.; Loker, S.; and Rucker, M. " Improved Apparel Sizing: Fit and
Anthropometric 3D Scan Data." Annual Report S04-CR01: National Textile Center, 2005.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Undergraduate Students & Staff: Katherine Schoenfelder, Charlotte Coffman, Fran Kozen, Janaki
Parthasarathy, Emily Calhoun, Arnab Bose, Orren Wexler, Eve Cahill, Heather Burkman, NatalieWalsh,
Tanya Garger

Industry Partners: [ TC]
2
, Liz Claiborne, Inc., MacWays, Joseph Abboud, Nike Inc

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