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Propeller Fitting Instructions

How to fit your propeller onto a tapered shaft correctly.


1. Check propeller shaft
After removing the old propeller check that the shaft taper, key and thread are undamaged. Try the propeller shaft nut on
the shaft thread. The shaft taper should be clean and dry.
Five minutes with a dial indicator while the shaft is still installed can save a lot of agony and expense later. Even a slightly
bent shaft can ruin your boating pleasure. If you don't have a dial indicator, you can use the following method. Rest a pointed
stick on the rudder, aligning the pointed end with the machined centre of the shaft, than rotate the shaft. Any deviation will
be apparent indicating the tapered end of the shaft may be bent.
2. Bearing check
Before installing your new prop ensure that the shaft bearing is not worn. A worn bearing or shaft will not be suitable for any
propeller, so if it is worn, replace it. If there is too much play of the shaft in the bearing, the bearing must be replaced or
vibration and damage to the shaft can occur. Please note that certain types of bearings require some clearance. If not sure
contact the manufacturer and ask them what the maximum allowable clearance is.
3. Check key and keyway
Check that the key fits the keyway. Ensure the key slides through the new props keyway without jamming at any point or
with no apparent slop. It will be helpful to mark the direction of the key in the keyway.
4. Propeller fit
Dry fit the propeller to the shaft, without the key in place first. Check that the propeller does not rock on the taper. Mark
the shaft at the forward end of the propeller hub. This is most is important - to first fit the new prop onto the shaft without
the key in place and to mark the shaft at the forward edge of the prop hub. Remove the prop and place the key into the shaft
keyway. Slide the prop back onto the shaft and check that the forward edge of the hub comes to your shaft mark. If not then
it is likely that the key is too large, and the propeller is not seated to the shaft taper correctly. Remove the prop and file the
top of the key down until the prop will slide on to the shaft and reach the mark. This will ensure that the prop is now
correctly seated on the shaft taper.
5. Fit propeller to shaft
It is good practice to "lap" the propeller to the shaft. It only takes a few minutes and will improve the fit. Purchase some
coarse valve grinding compound from an automotive supply store. Liberally coat the tapered end of the shaft and the bore of
the propeller with the grinding paste. Slide the propeller onto the shaft. Apply gentle pressure and rotate the propeller on
the shaft 90 to the right , then 90 to the left and repeat this several times. Occasionally remove the propeller from the
shaft and wipe out the valve grinding compound and visually inspect the bore. Continue this until a minimum fit of 75% is
achieved. Most valve grinding compounds are water soluble and wash off easily with soap and water.
6. Check propeller position
Carefully clean the propeller and the shaft and check the "dry fit" once more. You will probably notice that the propeller goes
to a different position on the shaft than before. Mark this new position.
7. Install propeller
Install the propeller with the key fitted to the shaft. Some people prefer to use a lubricant on the shaft, we do not
recommend this. Check that the propeller goes up to the mark on the propeller shaft. If it doesnt, the propeller is sitting on
the key and you must reduce the height of the key to overcome this problem. Draw the propeller up the taper using the
propeller locking nut, then lock this nut with the second nut. Don't forget to fit a new cotter pin.
8. Painting propellers
Painting your propeller will degrade the performance. Barnacles, on the other hand will degrade the performance more than
properly applied paint. If you use the boat often painting is not necessary. If you have the bottom regularly cleaned then
painting is also not required. On the other hand, if you are like most of us and use the boat not as often as you would like,
then painting may be helpful. A good alternative is the specialized silicon propeller coatings e.g.PROPSPEED which works
because they are slick;- any marine growth slides off the metal surface when moving through the water.
Here is one procedure for painting propellers:
A. The propellers will be clean when you receive them apart from a light coat of oil. Remove this oil film using alcohol or
acetone.
B. Choose a good quality Zinc Chromate primer and lightly coat the propellers.
C. The anti-fouling paint to use on the propellers is sold under various trade names as Outdrive Anti-fouling Paint in spray
cans. Spray 2-3 light even coats of paint on the propellers taking care not to get any paint into the bore of the hub.
D. Allow at least 48 hours drying time before putting the propellers into service.
E. It is best not to apply standard anti foul paint with a brush as it tends to "spin off" the propellers quickly and cannot be
applied as evenly as spray paint.
9. Alignment check
After the boat has been in the water for 24 hrs, the engine alignment should be checked.
10. Shaft zinc anode
Shaft anodes should be fitted as far forward on the shaft as possible, or as near to the cutlass bearing as practical so it does
not disturb the water flow to the propeller.
11. Vessel performance
Record your vessels performance after the hull is cleaned and while the propeller is in good condition. Note of the top RPM
and speeds achieved. This data will be very useful when fine tuning your propellers etc.
04/10/2013 http://www.propellerpages.com/?c=tech_info&f=fitting
Tapers - charts and how to measure
You can measure the taper bore of a propeller with digital vernier calipers.
Measure the small end to the taper inside diameter of propeller - nut end I.D. ( inside diameter)
Measure the large end to the taper inside diameter of propeller - front end I.D. ( inside diameter)
Measure the overall length of the boss (hub) of propeller Measure the keyway width.
Check how the old prop fits the taper shaft and the amount of draw - i.e. the overhang distance at the nut end so the prop
tightens on the taper properly.
Propeller tapers are often not to any standard which makes this game a challenge. There are 4 common tapers used - 1 in
10 , 1 in 12 , 1 in 16 and 1 in 20 and then there are odd back yard ones.
Also check and confirm PROPELLER ROTATION - L/H or R/H - A Right hand propeller rotates clockwise when viewed from
astern facing forward. A Left hand propeller rotates counter clockwise when viewed astern facing forward.
On a twin screw vessel the left hand prop is normally fitted to the port side.
S.A.E. Specification J755
The most widely followed dimensions for tapers is the internationally accepted
standard S.A.E. taper dimensions which is 1 in 16 up to and including 5 1/2" diameter.
Above this diameter the taper is 1 in 12. This standard is incorporated in the American
Boat and Yacht Council (A.B.Y.C.) rules which are commonly used in Australia. All
dimensions for S.A.E. taper standards are based on the SMALL end of the taper. The
reason for this is so propellers with different hub lengths (i.e. different diameters at
the large end of the taper bore) will fit the same shaft diameter and have the nut
face in the same position on the shaft.
1 in 16 taper is 3/4" inch to the foot and the angle center line is 1 degree 47' minutes
23" seconds.
1 in 12 taper is 1" inch to the foot and the angle center line is 2 degrees 23' minutes 9" seconds.
S.A.E. Specification J755 (unit: inches)
Shaft Diameter
Shaft Machining Propeller
Small End Taper Small End Keyway
Diam. of Taper Length Diam. Of Taper Size
A B C D
0.750" 0.625 2.000 0.609 0.1875
0.875" 0.727 2.375 0.711 0.2500
1.000" 0.828 2.750 0.813 0.2500
1.125" 0.930 3.125 0.914 0.2500
1.250" 1.031 3.500 1.016 0.3125
1.375" 1.133 3.875 1.117 0.3125
1.500" 1.234 4.250 1.219 0.3750
1.750" 1.438 5.000 1.422 0.4375
2.000" 1.641 5.750 1.625 0.5000
2.250" 1.844 6.500 1.828 * 0.5625
2.500" 2.047 7.250 2.031 0.6250
2.750" 2.258 7.875 2.234 0.6250
3.000" 2.461 8.625 2.438 0.7500
3.250" 2.664 9.375 2.641 0.7500
3.500" 2.867 10.125 2.844 0.8750
3.750" 3.070 10.875 3.047 0.8750
4.000" 3.273 11.625 3.250 1.0000
4.500" 3.828 10.750 3.797 1.1250
5.000" 4.250 12.000 4.219 1.2500
5.500" 4.672 13.250 4.641 1.2500
NB - *0.500 keyway commonly used in Australia for 2.250" SAE
Propeller Hub Taper 1:10 ISO 4566:1992(E) (unit: mm)
Shaft Dia.
Big Dia.
D
Small Dia.
D1
Length
L
Keyway
b h
20 20 15 50 6 3
25 25 19 60 8 4
30 30 22 80 8 4
35 35 26 90 10 4
40 40 30 100 12 4
45 45 34 110 14 5.5
50 50 38 120 14 5.5
55 55 42 130 14 5.5
60 60 46 140 16 5.5
65 65 50 150 16 5.5
70 70 54 160 18 5.5
75 74.5 57.5 170 18 6
80 79.5 61.5 180 20 6
85 84.5 65.5 190 20 7
90 89.5 69.5 200 22 7
95 94.5 73.5 210 25 7
100 99 77 220 25 7
110 109 85 240 28 7.5
120 119 93 260 32 8.5
130 129 101 280 36 9.5
140 139 109 300 36 9.5
150 149 117 320 36 9.5
160 159 125 340 40 10.5
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figure 1
Propeller & Propulsion Terminology
Diameter
Defined as the maximum radius of one blade multiplied by 2.
The diameter of the circle scribed by the blade tips as the propeller rotates.
General rules:
Diameter usually increases as engine power increases and vice versa. (all other variables remaining constant)
Diameter increases for slower boats and decreases for faster boats.
Pitch
Theoretical definition:
The linear distance that the propeller would move in one complete
revolution through a solid medium not allowing for slip.
Under actual operating conditions, slip occurs as propellers rotate, so
absolute forward movement (actual pitch) is less than theoretical pitch.
Different types of pitch are:
1. Constant (fixed) pitch - pitch is equal for each radius
2. Progressive pitch - pitch increases along the radial line from Leading
Edge to Trailing Edge.
3. Regressive pitch - pitch decreases along the radial line from Leading
Edge to Trailing Edge.
4. Variable pitch - pitch is different at selected radii
5. Controllable or Adjustable pitch - blade angle is mechanically varied
Pitch Angle (Not to be confused with pitch!)
Angle of the pressure face along the pitch line with respect to the plane
of rotation measured in degrees.
Pitch angle decreases from the blade root to the tip in order to maintain constant pitch.
Relationship between Pitch & Pitch Angle
Formula: Tan a = Pitch / 2P r
where: a = pitch angle and r = radius and P=Pi (3.14159)
Pitch Line
A line that passes through the Leading Edge and Trailing Edge of a blade used as a reference for pitch angle.
Propeller Centre Line (PCL)
Linear reference line passing through hub centre on the axis of propeller rotation.
Propeller Centre Axis (PCA)
Linear reference line that locates the blade on the hub. Perpendicular to the Propeller Centre Line (PCL).
Blade Centre Axis (BCA)
Linear reference line that indicates propeller rake.
Blade Centre Line (BCL)
Reference line that intersects each cylindrical section at the midpoint of the blade section width.
Indicates propeller skew.
Rake
Propeller blade will slant forward or aft from the Blade Centre Axis (BCA).
Positive rake - blade slants towards aft end of the hub.
Negative rake - blade slants towards forward end of the hub.
Can be specified in inches at the tip or in degrees.
Skew
Blade Centre Line is curvilinear sweeping back from the direction of rotation. Contour of the blade is not radially symmetrical
about blade centre axis.
Track
Measurement of axial position of all blades with respect to each other.
Rotation
Right hand propeller rotates clockwise when viewed from astern facing forward.
Left hand propeller rotates counter clockwise when viewed astern facing forward.
Twin screw applications utilize both LH (port side) and RH (starboard side) rotating propellers.
Aerofoil
Crescent
Blade Numbering
By convention the blade located at the position of the keyway is identified as Blade 1, the next blade in rotation is Blade2
and so on.
Blade Sections
Referred to as Cylindrical Sections.
Hub & fillet area account for about the first 20-30% of the sections.
Blade Section Length & Stations
Section length is the same as blade width.
Each station is expressed as a percent of radius increment ( eg 40 radius is 40% of the blade radius).
Blade Section Types
Naca: Symmetrical section. When performance is equal going astern or ahead.
B.Troost: The most commercially used hydrodynamic profile (airfoil).
Ogival: Used when pressure-cavitation conditions are higher, this section withstands
more pressure before cavitation reaches 3-4%, but is less efficient than B.Troost.
Hybrid: By combining both the B.Troost and Ogival, this hybrid maximizes the
benefits of both sections.
Airfoil section - resemble traditional airplane wing sections - i.e. rounded Leading
Edge, maximum thickness at about 1/3 length of blade aft of the Leading Edge.
Supercavitating section - high speed application Sharp Leading Edge, maximum
thickness near Trailing Edge.
Blade Thickness
A blade is thickest at the root for structural integrity.
Within each radial section, the point of maximum thickness may not necessarily
coincide with the midpoint of the chord length.
Blade Thickness Fraction (BTF)
Maximum blade design thickness as extended to the propeller centre line /
propeller diameter. Blades must have enough thickness to achieve desired sectional
shape and provide sufficient strength under loading. Blades that are too thick
produce less propeller efficiency.
Disc Area
Area of the circle scribed by propeller blade tips (P r) where P=Pi (3.14159) and r = radius (1/2 diameter) of the propeller.
Projected Area Ratio (PAR)
Area of projected outline of propeller divided by disc area.
Smallest area ratio.
Developed Area Ratio (DAR)
Similar to Projected Area Ratio if pitch were 0.
Area of blade rotated to 0 pitch divided by disc area.
Most widely used area ratio reference.
Expanded Area Ratio (EAR)
Similar to Developed Area Ratio with sections "unwrapped" from hub.
Largest area ratio.
Camber
Defined as curvature in the mean thickness line of the blade section.
Blade Tip
Maximum reach of the blade from the centre of the hub.
Separates the leading and trailing edges.
Leading Edge (LE)
Edge of the blade that first cuts the water.
Trailing Edge (TE)
Edge from which the water exits the blade.
Blade Face (Pressure Side or Pitch Side)
Side of the blade facing toward you while viewing from the vessel's stern.
Blade Back (Suction Side)
Side of the blade facing away from you while viewing from the vessels stern.
Blade Root (Fillet area)
The area where the blade attaches to the hub.
Hub
Solid cylinder located at the centre of the propeller.
Bored to accommodate the engine shaft.
Hub shapes include cylindrical, conical, radius, & barrelled.
Cavitation
Keyway
Slender rectangular slot broached into the interior of the hub.
Helps to secure propeller to the shaft and prevent rotational slipping on the shaft.
Cup
Small radius or curvature located at the trailing edge of blade.
Cupping, helps to reduce or delay cavitation.
Helps to reduce slip, thus increasing actual pitch and usable thrust.
Cavitation
Cavitation is the phenomenon of water vaporizing or boiling due to the extreme
decrease in pressure on the forward, or, suction side of the propeller blade.
Cavitation can be caused by nicks in the leading edge, bent blades, too much cup,
sharp corners at the leading edge, incorrect matching of propeller style to the
vessel and engine or, simply high vessel speed.
Ventilation
Sometimes the term cavitation is used when in reality ventilation is actually occurring. Ventilation is air from the water
surface or exhaust gases being drawn into the propeller blades which causes the propeller to over rev and lose thrust. This is
the effect that you sometimes feel when you are running in a following sea in rough weather.
Singing
Some propellers in service produce a high-pitched noise, often referred to as Singing. This sound typically is a clear harmonic
tone much like a humming or ringing wine glass.
More of an annoyance than anything harmful, the causes of singing are not completely understood. Many theories have been
put forward to account for the phenomenon of Singing, but it appears to be affected by critical factors for which the theories
make no allowance. For example a twin-screw vessel has one propeller that sings and the noise is eliminated just by
switching position of propellers. Or a singing propeller is replaced by an identical spare Propellers which is found to be silent.
Also the lower the number of blades on a prop the less chances of "singing".
Anti-singing Edge
The singing is a result of propeller diameter and R .P.M. , Boat speed and Trailing-edge thickness and shape or roundness. In
most of the cases not much can be done on Diameter, Rpm's or speed, but we can modify the Edge Geometry. This has been
the Strategy for all efforts to eliminate singing.
Most Propeller professionals (and others) are familiar with the Anti-singing Edge a Chamfering of the Trailing edge, typically
on the Suction side. This shape avoids the creation of curving flow eddies by cleanly separating the water flow off the blade.
The following graphic shows the Chamfering that goes from 0.5 or 0.4 Radius to the tip of Suction Side.
However the adoption of unduly thin edges can result in erosion or fracture of the blade near the edges. Anti-sing Edge may
be considered as a last resort to minimize the Singing of an existing Propeller.
Slip
The difference between the theoretical distance the propeller should travel in one revolution and the actual distance the
vessel travels.
For example if you cruise at 2000 rpm and your vessel has a 2:1 reduction gear, a wheel with 24" pitch, your theoretical
speed through the water should be 19.74 knots (the distance a 24" wheel should move in one hour). In reality your vessel only
does 14 knots at 2000 rpm on a calm day with no current, the difference is slip.

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