Auto Air Conditioning Unit 7

AUTO
AIR
CONDITIONING
BY
M A Qadeer Siddiqui

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UNIT 7

Car Air Conditioning Troubleshooting

Car air conditioning can be wonderful during a hot summer. However, what do you do when your cooling system develops problems? You
will need to be able to troubleshoot your car air conditioning problems so you can take steps to fix them.
No Refrigerant
If theres no refrigerant in your car air conditioning, the compressor wont turn on with most systems. The refrigerant could have dissipated
because of a leaky O-ring. Alternatively, the compressor might not kick in because of a blown fuse. Usually, there will be a reason why the
fuse has blown. You will need to check the compressor clutch. If it works but wont turn the compressor, youll need to replace the entire
compressor unit because it will have most likely seized up.
If the compressor is fine and you cant find any other immediate cause for refrigerant to vanish, you should check the pressure in the system.
Youll need special gauges to measure this.
Leaking Refrigerant
If you suspect your car air conditioning system is leaking refrigerant, theres a simple way to check for the problem. With the air conditioner
running, spray soapy water on the hose connections and check to see if theres any bubbling as this will indicate a leak. Check the hoses as
well to see if there are any small leaks coming from them.
Intermittent Cooling
Your car air conditioning should cool all the time its on. If this isnt happening, the problem could be due to the system freezing up. You
might not have evacuated all the air from the system when you last recharged it. You can purge the system with a vacuum pump (follow the
instructions in your service manual) to get rid of the air.
However, there can be other causes behind your car air conditioning only functioning intermittently. The other likely problem will
be electrical and this can range from a worn switch to a bad temperature sensor. You wont be able to check some of these problems easily
yourself and might need to take your car to a garage which has the proper equipment. This is especially true when you have an automatic air
conditioning system.
Noise
If your car air conditioning is noisy and the sound is coming from the compressor, the chances are that the compressor is failing and will
need to be replaced. However, if youre not certain the noise is coming from the compressor, check your hoses because they could be hitting
against other things.
Smell
A smell in your car air conditioning is generally indicative of mold in the evaporator. There are sprays you can buy to use on the air intake.
Make sure that you empty out the drainage tubes that lead away from the evaporator at the same time as you use a spray.
Poor Cooling
If your car air conditioning wont cool very well, the cause could be a low level of coolant. However, it could be due to other factors. You can
see if you need more refrigerant by hooking up a pressure gauge to the system and checking it with the engine off. You service manual will
give the correct low pressure measurements; if yours readings are excessively low, simply add more refrigerant.

Car Air Conditioner Repair Troubleshooting

Car air conditioner repair skills are critical during the summer, especially in heat waves. By understanding the potential for problems and
learning how to rectify them, you will be in a better position to bring your car air conditioner back to full working order.
Compressor
The compressor is the part of the air conditioning unit that is necessary to help transport the refrigerant. It works by sending the refrigerant to
the condensing coils, which is the beginning of the journey which eventually sees the substance reaching the evaporator. If the compressor
is defective and not turning properly, cool air will not be produced to flow into the car and will make car air conditioning repair necessary.
Where this is the case, the compressor will need to be replaced.
Leaks
Refrigerant is used as part of the cooling process that makes an air conditioner work. In the event that a leak causes a reduced level of
refrigerant, the air conditioner will work at a reduced capacity. Check the level of refrigerant when you find that the amount of cool air being
produced by the system is limited. A leak can also cause the entire system to cuts out on a regular basis as it may prompt an automatic shut-
off where the pressure is low. Rectify the problem by finding and repairing the leak before topping up the level of refrigerant.
Fuses
In the event that the fuses that are in place to power the air conditioner have blown, it will prevent the entire system from working at all. In
this case, car air conditioner repair will involve locating and replacing the defective fuses.
Condenser
The condenser is a component within the car that is needed to expel heat from the car. It is a necessary step after the refrigerant has been
transported through the coils. The process of compressing the gas can create heat which needs to be removed. If the condenser is not
operating properly, the heat that is produced can remain in the system and cause the air conditioning to become ineffective.
Clog
Car air conditioner repair can appear to be necessary when the system actually only requires cleaning. Check the vents for signs of any
clogs caused by a build up of dust and debris which prevents the free flow of air into the car. Use a soft bristle brush to clean the vents.
Further, the vents on the outside of the car that are used as an escape route for hot air must be kept clean so that the air is not forced back
into the car. Check the vents on a regular basis.
Switch
Where the connections that link the switch with the system have come loose or are defective, car air conditioner repair will be required to
replace the wires or fix this disconnection. Similarly, the wiring that serves the entire system will need to be checked to ensure that it does
not comprise any faults. Any defective wires will need to be replaced.

Car Air Conditioning Service

The Air Conditioner is not always included in a standard log book service, so it can be easily neglected.

However in saying that, a regular vehicle service always checks the obvious faults which are associated
with Air Conditioning systems operating below expected demands, such as;

The drive belt tension
Blocked air flow through the Condenser and Radiator
Visible signs of Refrigerant oil stains ar the compressor, hoses, pipes or fittings.
Loose or faulty compressor mounting brackets
Service port caps missing

Tips For Maintaining A Car Air Conditioner

It does help to prolong the life of your air conditioner by running it at least once a week
during non-summer months to assist in keeping the compressor seals lubricated.

Remember your air conditioning system does not only cool your vehicle but in addition
one of its primary functions is to remove the humidity from the cabin. So it is good
practice to use your air conditioner in winter to keep your windscreen free of fog which
impairs your visibility.

When driving on the open road it is always a good idea to have your car air conditioner
set to "flow through" ventilation and not "recirculate". This is due to the fact that .5%
by volume of CO2 is dangerous and mat cause drowsiness and headaches.

Research statistics from the Police Accident Investigation Branch indicate that a large
percentage of vehicles involved Country Road Accidents have in fact had their Air
Conditioners turned onto "Recirculate".

It is good practice to get a full air conditioning service at least every two years. Try and
do this before the hotter months start, as this will ensure that you are not caught out by
a sudden heat wave at the start of the season.

Items that need to be checked to interpret operating functions
and diagnosis prior to a car air conditioner service include:

Air vent temperature check
Condenser temperature check
Suction line temperature reading
Adjustment of drive belts and pulleys
Check operation of valves and thermostats
Leak test system lines and components with an electronic leak detector
Inspection of hoses and components
Cleaning condenser fins
Deodorize and sanitize system

Service Procedures
Recover refrigerant (weigh amount and record)
Test Equipment
Replace Schraeder valves
Replace receiver drier filter
Add required amount of refrigerant oil
Evacuate system
Perform leak detection procedure
Charge system with recommended refrigerant type and capacity
Start vehicle and performance test

CAUSES OF AIR CONITIONER FAILURE

1 - Moisture
An air conditioner lowers the insides temperature, cools, dries and cleans the air by forcing the warmer air to release outside. This process
holds true for car systems as well. Therefore, if moisture or debris contaminates the air conditioner installed in the car, it will fail to cool the
surroundings.
2 - Pungent Car Interiors
Bacteria, fungi and micro-organisms can develop when the air conditioning system is not in use especially during winters. These germs
rapidly grow behind the dashboard if left untreated and significantly contributes to sick car syndrome.
3 - Low Refrigeration Level
The refrigerant used in car air conditioning diminishes by 15% annually. Especially during winters, when the system is not in use, seals can
dry out which deteriorates the productivity of the unit.
4 - Soiled Condenser
The condenser is responsible for cooling the high-pressure refrigerant vapors exiting the compressor. Blockage of the condenser due to the
presence of dirt, grime or debris will constrict the air flow and no cooling will take place.
5 - Mechanical Complications
Compressor malfunction, defective compressor clutch, defunct pressure switches and non-working valves will lead to poor cooling or no
cooling at all.
Possible Solutions
Low refrigeration level can be rectified by re-filling the gas in the refrigerant tanks or fixing any noticeable leakage.
A malfunctioning air conditioner system can be treated by a repair specialist who eliminates the growth of micro-organisms and
restores fresh and vibrant car interiors.
A clogged condenser can be cleaned by employing a good quality flushing agent that vaporizes quickly and does not leave
residue in the system. Replace the condenser if it has been used for many years and giving frequent problems.
Switch on the air conditioning unit and check if the compressor, compressor clutch switch, fuses, wires, fan belt and compressor
seal are functioning adequately. Check whether the oil in the compressor has been contaminated. Flush the AC unit to replace the
old oil with the new.
For efficient working of the air conditioning unit, it is advised to regularly replace the expansion valve, accumulators and receiver
driers.
Upon confronting strange noises emanating from the air conditioning unit, skilled an air conditioner technician should be
immediately contacted.
Attending to the air conditioning system can save car owners from the cumbersome process of replacing the unit, and paying unnecessary
expenses.

SERVICING OF CAR HEATER
1)Inspect the heater system for blockages and broken parts. Make sure the heater hoses are in good condition. If your
car has a summer valve on the engine block, make sure the valve is opeN
2)If necessary, check the blower circuit and motor. If the blower motor isnt operating, check the fuse and all the
switches and wire connections. Some blower motors also have resistors that can burn out and need replacement; you can
check them with an ohmmeter.

3)If the blower motor needs to be replaced, follow the instructions in the service manual for doing so. In some
cases, the dashboard must be partially disassembled. In all cases, you must first drain the cooling system.
4
4)If the heater core needs to be replaced, again, follow the instructions in your cars manual. There are just too many
ways of doing so to cover them all here. The heater core is typically found in a housing unit under the dashboard or in the
engine compartment against the firewall. Disconnect, disassemble, replace and assemble.
5)To test your cars heater, repeat the earlier procedure for purchasing ice cream. If it melts before you get back
home, the heater works fine.

Car Heater Maintenance

The eternal optimist in all of us anticipates that a simple flip of the heater switch on that first really cold, blustery day of winter means that our
vehicle will instantly be as warm and cozy as the toasty home we just left.

How Heaters Work
Get real. Granted, most vehicle systems do work the way they're supposed to; but, that first day when the world is coated in frost and the
temperature has plummeted below freezing is not the time to find out your car's heater is not working. Start by flipping on that heater switch
well before you really need the heat. If your heater doesn't respond with a warm blast of air, here are a few things you can do to figure out the
problem.

Automotive heaters work off the warm air absorbed by the radiator from the warmed-up engine. If your cold-day car ritual is to turn on the
heater and blower right after your turn the ignition switch, all you'll get is cold air. Only once the engine warms up will the passenger
compartment warm up as well.
Troubleshooting
Your radiator has to have an adequate level of coolant for the heating system to work. If you're low on coolant, air pockets can develop in the
heater core and hoses, blocking the flow of warmth. To make sure the coolant is fully circulating, check both heater hoses (inlet and outlet
return hoses) when the engine has reached normal operating temperatures and the heater is on. Both hoses should be hot to the touch. If
they're not, you may have identified the source of your problem.
For a front-wheel drive or rear-engine configuration, you may want to take the problem to your mechanic, since those systems are usually a
bit more complicated. Filling the cooling system and bleeding out heater hose air pockets may require opening up bleeder valves on the
thermostat housing or hose connections. If your vehicle doesn't have these valves, you may have to loosen the heater outlet hose as you
add coolant to the radiator. In either case, leave the valve or hose open until the fluid starts to dribble out. At that point, the air pockets should
be eliminated and you'll be good to go.
Another source of no-heat is a thermostat stuck in the open position. A good test is to start a cold engine and check the upper radiator hose.
No coolant should be moving through the hose until the engine starts to warm up, and at that point, the hose will feel warm. If the thermostat
is stuck on open, you'll feel the coolant in the hose as soon as the cold engine is started.
A heater core clogged with cooling system crud can also cause the heater to malfunction. The only solution is a new core. The way to avoid
this repair is to flush the cooling system as part of your regular maintenance schedule.
If both your heater and defroster are on the fritz, the problem is probably an inoperative airflow control or inlet door in the heater ducting. The
quick fix is to check for and repair or re-attach a loose cable or hose. If your vehicle has a vacuum-actuated system, you'll have to replace
the vacuum motor or control switch.
What if your heater is working well, but the blower that's supposed to get the warmth into the passenger compartment isn't working? This is
easy enough to figure out. You should be able to hear the blower blowing air when you flip it on. If it's silent, that's the problem. This may be
as simple as a blown fuse or as complicated as a broken motor or wiring/electrical problem.
One word of caution: if you've checked your fuse box diagram and can see that the fuse has blown, simply replacing the fuse may not solve
the problem. Fuses blow when the circuit overloads, so you or your mechanic should identify the cause of the circuit overload. If a
replacement fuse blows out immediately, there's a short in the system. If the fuse lasts a while, then goes bad, the fan motor may be running
too hot due to worn brushes.
No heat can also be caused by pinched heater hoses, which you should be able to locate and un-pinch. Another potential source of a
malfunctioning heater is a weak water pump that isn't properly circulating the coolant through the system, or a cooling or clutch fan that's
over-cooling your engine.
One thing you should NOT do is place a barrier, such as a piece of cardboard, in front of your vehicle radiator. This is a common "don't-
wanna-figure-out-the-problem" solution to increase heating capacity. Unfortunately, the result may be an overheated engine, even in the
coldest weather, especially when the engine is under load or kept idling in traffic.
As with most mechanical problems, the solution to inadequate heating can be simple or complicated. Even with an easy fix, it's better to take
care of that before you're caught out in the cold.

LEAK TESTING GUIDE





Air Conditioning System Evacuation
After the recovery process is complete and all available refrigerant has been removed from the system, it is ready for
evacuation. Whenever an A/C system is severely low on refrigerant or has been opened for repair, moisture and air enter
the system. This moisture and air are removed from the system by use of a vacuum pump drawing the system into a
vacuum.

Moisture in a R-134a system will mix and react with the refrigerant and oil used in the system. It forms a corrosive
hydrochloric acid that corrodes lines, clogs screens, and damages other components in the system. It blends with the
hygroscopic oils used in today's R-134a systems, reducing their ability to lubricate A/C components like the compressor.
Performing an evacuation will not remove metal shavings from an A/C system, this will require a flush.
Once the system is resealed, a vacuum pump is used to draw the system to a vacuum of 29.75 or greater. This will reduce
the boiling point of any moisture contained within the system. By bringing a closed system into a vacuum, the boiling
point is greatly reduced and any moisture boils into a vapor. It is then carried out through the vacuum pump.
If a system has been opened for repair, vacuum should be pulled for at least 30 minutes. Check with manufacturers
specifications. If a system is left open and exposed to outside air and humidity for a long time, the pump down time should
be increased significantly.

UNIT 8

How to fix air condition in your car

Steps
1. 1

Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout.
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of
your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well
outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing i t
yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
2. 2

Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
o the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
o the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a, older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming
increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
o the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant from gas to liquid and expels heat removed from the car
o the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop
the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
o the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
o the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
3. 3

Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils.
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the
condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the
condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it
from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a
liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the
expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the
compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase
mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and
evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back
through the cycle again and again.
4. 4

Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat).
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to
spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the
system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have
no pressure in it at all. Find the low-side valve and with a gauge check the PSI level. Do not use anything else to poke in the
valve to see if it will come out, this is illegal. It's called venting.
5. 5

Make sure the compressor is turning.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is
generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but
will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists
as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but
the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring
problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure
safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
6. 6

Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or
seal failure inside the compressor.
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump
from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
7. 7

Feel for any cooling at all.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure and you can top up the
refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more
than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact,
the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real -time as it adds
refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

VEHICLE AIR CONDITIONING MAINTENANCE TIPS
HOW TO ENSURE A LONG, TROUBLE-FREE OPERATION OF YOUR CAR'S AIR
CONDITIONING SYSTEM

MAINTAINING YOUR AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM MEANS THAT YOU ALWAYS HAVE ENOUGH REFRIGERANT
TO PROPERLY DO THE JOB.
Small leaks in the vehicles air conditioning system allow the refrigerant to escape and the system cant
cool the air as well.
Keepin Cool recommends that you regularly check your vehicles air conditioner system.
The obvious faults which are associated with an Air Conditioning systems breaking down are;
The drive belt tension
Blocked air flow through the Condenser and Radiator
Visible signs of Refrigerant oil stain at the compressor, hoses, pipes or fittings.
Loose or faulty compressor mounting brackets
Service port caps missing
Anything beyond this visual inspection then requires a full Air Conditioning Service. Only a fully
qualified air conditioning technician can carry out this service. Keepin Cool is a certified air conditioning
repairer and can carry out all necessary repairs to get your air vehicles conditioner working to its optima
performance Check out our license at Australian Refrigeration Council

TIPS FOR MAINTAINING A CAR AIR CONDITIONER
Running the air conditioner once a week for 10 minutes will maintain the gas pressure. This prevents
hardening of the hoses and compressor seals failure. Turn the air conditioner to its coolest setting and
highest fan speed. Run the defrost mode for five to ten minutes to clean out accumulated moisture. This
prevents mildew and prevents that dirty wet cloth odour in the system.
Remember your air conditioning system does not only cool your vehicle but in addition one of its primary
functions is to remove the humidity from the cabin. So it is good practice to use your air conditioner in
winter to keep your windscreen free of fog which impairs your visibility.
By allowing all car windows to remain closed, even on the hottest days, the aerodynamics of the car
remain at optimum, keeping fuel consumption low and exterior noise to a minimum, increasing safety to
the driver and passengers.
You may not be aware that over 10% of air-con gas permeates from the air-con system every year, which
means that it may not work as well as it should. This is why car manufacturers recommend your Air-Con
system is recharged with gas and lubricant every 2 years.
It is good practice to get a full air conditioning service at least every two years. Try and do this before the
hotter months start, as this will ensure that you are not caught out by a sudden heat wave at the start of
the season.
This will enable you to keep ahead of any system faults or potential compressor failure.

A poorly maintained system operating on a low amount of oil and gas will reduce your compressors
capacity to run efficiently costing you extra in fuel.

MAINTAINING A HEALTHY STATE FOR YOUR CAR AIR-CONDITIONING
A car air-conditioning system can be a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and fungus. This is
particularly important for sufferers of asthma or allergies.

At Keepin Cool we have the latest Ozone machine to carry out this service we can treat the cooling
evaporator also the cabin air filter and entire car interior, killing all the bugs and leaving your car air
conditioning smelling sweetly.

This treatment is designed to protect you and your passengers and also help to remove the musty odour
that can be evident from the air conditioner vents. For more information click here

WHAT IS INCLUDED IN A CAR AIR CON SERVICE?
Keepin Cool Auto Air Conditioning specialist offer the most comprehensive Inspection available of your
vehicles air-conditioning system
Items that need to be checked to interpret operating functions and diagnosis prior to a car air conditioner
service include:

Static & operating pressure checks
In-car delivery temperature measurement
Visually inspect the air conditioning compressor drive belt for cracks or damage
Check the operation of the air conditioning compressor and other air conditioning components
condenser, pipes and hoses
Visually inspect accessible components for leaks or damage with an electronic leak detector
Vacuum test the system
Cleaning condenser fins
Check for bad smells odours in vehicle
Recover refrigerant from the system (record gas amount and oil recovered )

RE-GAS SERVICE PROCEDURES
Replace Schrader valves
Replace receiver drier filter
Add required amount of refrigerant compressor oil
Add UV dye for leak detection
Evacuate system 20mins to remove moisture
Charge system with recommended refrigerant type and capacity
Perform leak detection procedure (UV lamp and electronic refrigerant sniffer)
Performance test of A/C system
Record pressure readings and temperature readings

PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT
Refrigerant gas like R12 and R134a are extremely damaging to the ozone layer and any gas that is
irresponsibly released into the atmosphere by owner's or backyard mechanics can harm the environment
and contribute to global warming.

Keepin Cool offer's a Mobile Recovery/Disposal Service for those who are doing their own air
conditioning repairs.

It is illegal to release Refrigerant gases into the Atmosphere. The penalty for this runs into several
Thousand Dollars.
By law, refrigerant gas R12 and R134a must be reclaimed and sent to bodies such as Refrigerant
Reclaim Australia to be destruction by special methods saving our ozone.
It is Law now that anyone that works on Automotive Air Conditioning systems throughout all States and
Territories of Australia must have a Refrigerant Handling Licence.
As a result a Licenced Automotive Air Conditioning Workshop must display their Trading Authorisation
and Refrigerant Handling Licences at all times see Australian Refrigeration Council for more
information.

How to Troubleshoot an Auto Air Compressor

Start the vehicle and turn the air on. If there is a scraping, tinny sound just when the compressor is turned on that
goes away as soon as it is turned off and the compressor is still good, the clutch needs to be replaced. The clutch can
be replaced without discharging the A/C system if it is accessible. Just remove the belt and leave the compressor
mounted to the engine.

Check the clutch operation if it does not come on. Apply power directly to the wire on the top front of the compressor.
If it comes on, then there is an electrical problem to be traced. If it does not come on, replace the clutch.

Listen for a rather loud knocking noise as the compressor operates. It the noise goes away when the air is turned off,
the compressor is about to self destruct internally and should be replaced as soon as possible. Do not use the air until
the compressor is replaced as the vanes inside the compressor are coming apart and the more it is run the more
material it will release into the system, causing a blockage. This could get very expensive if all the parts need to be
replaced in the air conditioning system.

Hook up the gauges to the A/C system and turn the air on. If the compressor does not come on, check the pressure on
the gauges. The blue or low side should be around 75 to 80 pounds in order to operate the low side switch to kick the
compressor on. If the pressure is below 75 pounds the system needs to be charged in order to get the switch to
activate, allowing the compressor to work. The low side switch is installed so that if the pressure (as in a leak) drops, it
shuts the compressor off, preventing damage to it. If the pressure is correct and in range then an electrical problem is
present.

Check the low side switch for power with the air on. If there is power, jump the connector and see if the compressor
comes on. If it does, the switch is bad. If there is no power, check the fuse for the air conditioning in the fuse relay box
under the hood. Check the relays by pulling them out and checking the terminals for power at two terminals. If there
is power at only one terminal, the problem is inside the cabin. If it has power at two locations, the relay is bad.

Check the gauges if the air comes on and does not cool. The proper readings will vary a little with the outside
temperature, but should be close to 25 to 40 pounds on the low or blue side and 210 to 250 on the red or high side. If
both sides are low and the compressor is working, the system needs to be charged. If the high side is low and the low
side is high, the compressor is no good. If the high side is high and the low side is close to normal, there is either a
blockage in the expansion valve or orifice tube, a radiator fan not working or a plugged up condenser.


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