Woven fabric manufacture

Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets

of yearns together at right angles to each other.
http://www.tikp.co.uk/knowledge/technology/w
arping-and-weaving/weaving-process/
The yarns that run up the length of the fabric are
known as the warp threads.
The yarns that run across the fabric are called
the weft threads.
The edge of the piece of fabric is called the
selvedge
Plain weave
Most used
woven
construction
Properties of plain weave
Strong
Firm
Hardwearing
Smooth
Relatively cost effective
Available in lots of different weights

Cailco

Plain weave, low cost,
made in different
weights and widths,
suitable for
experimental textile
work, especially in the
production of toiles.
Can also be used in
the production of low
cost furnishings.



Voile
A lightweight plain weave sheer fabric made
from cotton, silk or rayon, nylon or worsted.
Used in blouses, dresses, childrens wear and
curtains
Nylon voile
Rayon voile
Rip-stop nylon
High performance plain
weave fabric
Some of the warp and
weft threads are doubled
up at intervals.
Extra strong tear strength
End use: kites, high
performance tents and
performance sports wear.
Light weight, abrasion-
resistant, sometimes
with flourocarbon finish
Poplin
Is a plain weave, warp faced
cotton fabric, which shows
weft way ribs on its surface.
The warp is finer and weft is
coarser.
Usually piece dyed or printed
on.
End use: shirting, summer
jackets, coats and kids wear.

Seersucker
Plain weave construction
Crinkled warp way stripes, can be produced 3 ways:
Fabric is woven in stripes, alternate
stripes up under different tension on
the loom. Uses: dresses or table
cloths.
Linen or cotton treated with caustic
soda, usually in stripes resenting in
crinkled stripes.
Fabric made with fibres with different
shrinkage properties which results in
crinkles.

Palin weave sample and diagram
Twill weave sample and diagram
Satin weave sample and diagram
Twill weave
Fabrics produce diagonal lines.
The direction of the weave will give different
properties to the fabric, for example:

Herringbone Chevron:
Properties of twill woven fabric
Drapes well.
Most used constructions, gabardine and
denim are twill weaves.
End uses: jackets, trousers, suits and curtains,
jeans.

Satin weave
Warp faced fabric, which makes it strong in
the warp direction, allowing it to drape well.
Smooth shiney surface.
Weft thread only show through on the back.
End uses: curtain lining, evening wear,
upholstery, ribbons and trimmings depending
on the fibre used, eg, cotton/ polyester,
acetate, silk.
Damask fabrics
Are made from more expensive mercerised cotton
which is sometimes used for table cloths.
Mercerisation is where caustic soda is used with
cellulosic yarns to swell the fibres, the resulting yarn
and fabric has better strength and an affinity to dye
and the handle is improved.
The designs in damask fabrics are due to the
construction alternating between being warp and
weft faced, this is also known as inter changing satin
and sateen weaves
Damask fabrics
Sateen, not to be confused with satin,
[1][2]
is a type of fabric
often found in bed sheets.
Grey cotton sateen used to line a cape
Sateen is a term usually applied to cotton, or sometimes
rayon. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen.
Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this
disappears with washing and is not considered genuine
sateen. Sateen may be bleached, dyed, or printed. It is
difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a
tendency to slip at the seams.
Sateen produces the sheen and softer feel through the use of
a different structure in the weaving process. The sateen
structure is four over, one under, placing the most threads on
the surface, making it extremely soft, though slightly less
durable than other weaves. Standard non-sateen weaves use
a one-over, one-under structure. Satin also uses this
structure; however, materials such as silk, polyester, etc., are
used instead of cotton. Sateen was also used for Vintage dress
shirts and other Vintage type clothes

Sateen fabric
Crepe Fabric
These fabrics have a crinkled or puckered
surface.
There is no definite pattern.
Wool crepes are used for high quality suits.
They are produced by using S and Z twist
yarns, a crepe weave construction and a
chemical or thermal treatment that makes the
fabric shrink differently.
Crepe fabric
Jacquard fabric
Is a complicated pattern design in 3 or more
colours.
Its made by knitting or weaving on specialist
jacquard machinery.
Woven jacquard fabrics are used
interchanging all the different weaving
patterns.
Mainly used for expensive upholstery fabrics
and formal evening wear.
Jacquard weave
Pile weave
As with pile knits, this fabric has a raised surface effect.
This pile is formed by tufts or loops that stand up from the
fabric.
Velvet and corduroy are good examples of pile fabrics. They
are used for trousers/ jackets or in garment production.
Other end uses are upholstery or carpets. Different effects
can be applied, sculpted, curled or textured.
Pile upholstery fabrics that have a combination of cut and
uncut pile loops are the most hardwearing.




velveteen
Velveteen has a shorter pile after cutting than velvet.
Velvet
Needle cord or corduroy
Corduroy is a ribbed cut weft- pile fabric that
is brushed. The pile runs parallel to the
selvedge and the cords may be medium or
broad. Cotton corduroy is used for shirts,
jackets and upholstery.
Needle cord is made in the same way as
corduroy, but the cords are very fine.
Corduroy

Needle cord
Terry towelling
Woven terry towelling is a plain weave cotton fabric
made from two warps.
The ground warp is tensioned and the pile warp is
looser.
When the weft yarns are beaten into the fabric the
looser pile warp ends form loops on one or both sides
of the fabric.
Towelling is usually made from cotton and this
combined with the loop construction makes it a very
absorbent fabric, thats easy to wash and doesnt need
ironing.
Ideal for towels, mats and dressing gowns.
Terry towelling
Fabric mixture
Is made with the warp of one fibre and the
weft of another, e.g. cotton warp, wool weft.
This is called a UNION FABRIC , which can be
cheaper than using just one fibre.
When mixture fabrics are dyed, the dye is
taken up at different rates so that the fabric
can looked speckled.
This is a deliberate designed effect.
Colour woven fabrics
Colour and weave effects are used by
designers to create an unlimited
variety of fabric effects.
Depending on the way warp and
weft yarns interact with the weave
construction different aesthetics
results can be achieved


Stripes


Tartan


Houndstooth
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Chambray
Has a warp in one colour and the weft in
another, the result is a shimmering,
changeant, shot silk effect.


Gingham
Is plain weave construction, its lightweight,
mainly checked fabric that uses white and
colour yarns.
A very popular fabric in the 1950s.
Used for blouses, tablecloths and dresses/
uniform. When used for shirts its called
MADRAS.
Tartan
Construction is 2/2 twill.
Originally used for shawls, kilts made form
wool
Each Highland clan have there own distinct
tartan design.
Tartan is now made in other fibres and
constructions and is used in fashion and
furnishing for interiors.