Istanbul to cut out some good stuff haha. Istanbul is an amazing city its layered upon thousands of years of history. The earliest settlements have been dated back to 100,000 years. The city has gone through numerous identities, from Hellenization to Romanization to Christianization to Ottomanization to Islamicization to Europeanization then Republicizatoin to the current shift, globalization. Theres massive public works projects transforming the city, gentrifying it and privatizing it. There are many protests nowadays in Taksim and around. If you run into one, I recommend not sticking around. The police tend to get kinda brutal. But anyways, its an amazing city to wander around. My favorite has always been anything along the Bosphrous. Heres a list of things that stuck out to me while I was there, and that are more easily accessible:
Also: rough guide and lonely planet are great guide books. Check out timeoutistanbul.com for local events and new places to eat.
Taksim Area
stiklal is the main nightlife area of stanbul. The main street and a bunch of places, but the side roads have more laid back places for beer, live music, etc. Kk Beyolu, Asmalmecid are fun. There are lots of street musicians and performers (apparently its the best place in the world for street performers to make money). Theres a resurgence of Black Sea culture (Laz and Georgian) after repression/neglect from the state, so keep and eye/ear out for them. The music has good beats. Here are links to some songs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdDELaX9SyY, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOy6hrHiZkM, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgnOj0zu6Ts, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GYl4HlcfuQ)
The street also has several really old churches and the Mevlevi (Sufi) museum. They have whirling dervish shows and some good music shops around it. Theres a cool caf called Kallavi that has a really nice view. Its on Kallavi street, right across from St. Anthony of Padua Church. take the elevator to the top. The Caf itself has a three floor, two of which are terraces with nice views. If you go, ask to go to the top floor (en st kat). Other restaurants with cool views are Istanbul 360 and Divan Brasserie, and the Kebap. Shelya is a good traditional restaurant. They lots of music and Rak (Turkish Vodka) for a fixed price. Its a great atmosphere, and people are friendly.
Go to the Galata Tower for an amazing view of the city. This area used to be a separate city called Pera, but now its part of Istanbul. Theres a Wine shop called Sensus that only sells Turkish wines. I believe they let you sample as well. Nearby is the Pera Palace hotel, which was where people stayed after going on the Orient express. Its apparently on the 1,001 places to see before you die list. When I was there, people would hang out by the Galata tower on weekend evenings, drink, socialize, etc. Im not sure if the laws have changed about that, but its a nice area in the evening.
Upper Bosphorus
The Bosphorus cruises start on the historic peninsula. They are a great way to see the whole bosphorus. The 25E goes up the most of the Bosphorus on land. I lived in Saryer, which is a small town on the upper west part. Rumelifeneri is a small town where the Bosphorus meets the Black Sea. The Bosphorus has many small towns up the coast, they each used to be inhabited mainly by one ethnic group. Anadolukava has the Yoros Castle, which is a great hike and gives really cool views. The Bosphorus cruise goes there, or you could take one ferry from Saryer.
Sade Kahve is a great rooftop food place. Amazing view! Its near the Rumeli Hisar, which I recommend walking around. It was built to help conquer the city.
Ortaky has an iconic mosque in front of the first Bosphorus bridge. Its super touristy, but has some nice (but pricey) shops. The mosque is interesting, it was built in a neo-baroque style during the Europeanization of the 1800s. Look inside, and youll almost feel like youre in a European manor haha.
Around the Ayasofya
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) - People write entire dissertations on this building, so theres a lot to see. There is incredible history through the murals/tilework, or lack thereof in parts of the building. The current structure was finished 537 AD. Thats 1477 years ago. It was actually commissioned by the emperor Justinian I after he massacred tens of thousands of citizens during the Nika Riots (he was originally going to flee, but his wife, who was a former prostitute who rose through the ranks and married him to become empress wouldnt let him flee and made him stay and quell the people). Also, the Ayasofya is legendary throughout history. Before the Ottomans conquered Istanbul, there were legends that Muslims would go inside and immediately convert to Christianity because it was so beautiful. Theres major drama right now because the government wants to turn it back into a functioning mosque.
Blue Mosque Its right there, so you might as well see it. But when it was built, people hated it. First, at the time, the Hagia Sofia was a functioning mosque, so people thought it was a waste of money to build such a thing with a bigger mosque right next to it. Second, imperial mosques were only built after the sultan has a major victory in battle, but Sultan Ahmet III, didnt he just built this because he wanted to. Also, it had more minarets than the Grand Mosque in Mecca, so he commissioned two more minarets there to calm people down. Inside, its incredibly gaudy and the two giant pillars are nicknamed the elephants legs. Also, when you go into these large mosques today, its very quiet. But in Ottoman times, it was the opposite. Entering the mosque was meant to stimulate all the senses. The air would be cool, there would be incense burning, and someone would be reciting the Quran 24 hours a day.
Milion Its a small stone structure, but it marked the starting point for all roads to ancient Byzantium! The Divanyolu, which was once the Via Egnatia, used to run all the way to the Adriatic sea.
Hippodrome Look at the Serpents column (brought from Delphi) and the Obelisk of Thutmosis III (brought from Egypt). These were brought to Constantinople to give the city significance in the ancient world. If it had monuments like these, the city could be tied to Hellenistic history. This is also where the tens of thousands were killed (keep in mind, one by one by sword) during the Nika riots. Justinian III told the people to go into the hippodrome to have a city wide meeting, but he just killed them all.
Check out the Kk Ayasofya Its a bit away, but youll see a bunch of really old Istanbul while you get there. there are still Greek inscriptions along the wall People who converted it into a mosque didnt know what they were so they just left it haha.
Topkap Palace This is the Ottoman palace built atop the ancient acroplolis. Notice how open and quiet the palace is. It was meant as a retreat for the Sultan, and sanctuary for him. If you see the Dolmabahe Palace, its interesting to contrast the vibes. There are lots of relics from Ottoman times and from all over the Islamic world.
Aracheological Museum is amazing. Dont go to the Islamic Science museum, its a waste of time.
The Grand Bazaar is okay, the best stuff is way deep inside. Go to Sahaflar ars for old books/prints/etc.. Check out the column of Constantine (emberlita). It was built in 330 AD in an attempt to Romanize the city. The legend is that in the base is the Palladium of ancient Rome from Troy, Relics from those who crucified Jesus, the basket from the loaves and fishes miracle, and some other things. These all would bring Constantinople to importance in the ancient Roman world. The column was built to commorate the dedication of Constantinople as the new capital of the Roman Empire. This area was once the Forum on Constantine. - Other cool things: Basiliaca cistern look for the medusa head. When the Ottomans conquered, the Byzantines obviously didnt walk them through the city to show them everything, so no one knew about this place until much later.
Rest of the Historic Peninsula
Chora Church (Kariye Mzesi) and the Church of Pammakaristos (Fethiye Camii) these both have amazing Byzantine mosaics! I highly recommend seeing them if you like mosaics.
Yavuz Sultan Selim It was built in 1520s, and a has a great view of the Golden horn. Right behind it is a former cistern, which is now used as a soccer field haha.
Sleymaniye Camii complex is really nice. There is a library with old manuscripts, a coppersmith alley, and the tomb of Sinan the famous architect who gave Istanbul some of its most famous buildings. The mosque is really nice, and theres a cool view of the golden horn. If your walk around the north side, there are a bunch of cafes with rooftop seating that give good views. Theres a caf here called Lale Bahesi (pronounced Laleh Bahchesi) on the northwest side of the complex, thats really cool. Ask people for it, and grab some tea/food/hookah there.
If you go past the Sleymaniye, there are some small, cool things to see. The Kalenderhane Mosque is beautiful., and theres a place called Vefa Bozac, which sells this applesauce-esque drink of Istanbul called Boza. They have a cup that Atatrk drank Boza from haha.
Spice Bazaar (Msr ars) this area is interesting. Most mosque complexes have the mosque in the center, and everything else surrounding it. But this one is different. If you look at a map, youll see the market is the center, and the mosque is off to the side. Originally, this was a merchant neighborhood, which housed the much of the Jewish population (they owned much of the wealth in the city). During a period of Islamicization, the land was confiscated on the premise of making a mosque complex. But the trade characteristic of the neighborhood stayed, and the market took the center role in the area over time. Also, there are really good fish boats next to the Galata bridge. If you like Turkish coffee, Kurukahveci Mehmet Effendi, Turkeys most famous coffee company, sells ground coffee here. Also, the dont eat from those corn vendors. It sucks.
Asia The Asian side is much slower, and there isnt too much to see here. Moda and Kadky (where the first city in the area was founded) have nice cafes and places to walk around. I highly recommend the restaurance iya the chef went all around Turkey to gather recipes that are being forgotten. Everything is delicious.
I also really like the town of engelky. Theres a really nice caf called naralt. If you cant tell so far, cafes along the/with nice views of the Bosphorus are my main obsession.
Outside of Istanbul
Princes Islands. I recommend going to the largest Island and renting bikes. Theres also a monastery there. The other Islands are supposedly nice and less touristic, but I really like biking so I just went to the main one. Im not sure if you can rent bikes on the other ones.