Linum Usitatissimum translates from Latin as "most useful linen.

" In naming
this species, botanists recognized the inherent value of the humble fax plant.
For ten thousand years or more, man has no!n this gentle gift of nature !as
the source of textiles !ith special properties" soft hand, rich color absorption,
lasting durability, and unrivalled comfort.
#l!ays ecologically$correct, every part of the fax plant is at man%s service.
&he seeds provide oil for dyes, paint, cosmetics and foor coverings. 'hen
ground, they form a four used in poultices. &he (bers have been used as
sutures. &he by$products of linen production are processed into a pulp used
for bannotes or (berboard. )o!ever, fax is most r
eno!ned as the ra! material for an extraordinary fabric.
Flax is one of the fe! crops still produced in 'estern *urope, !ith nearly
+,,--- acres under cultivation annually. .limatic conditions in this region are
perfect for gro!ing fax, and increasing !orld!ide demand for linen maes it
an important cash crop.
&he gro!ing cycle is short and s!eet, !ith only /-- days bet!een so!ing in
0arch and harvesting in 1uly. &he plant ripens by the end of 1une into golden
yello! color, and then it fo!ers, dotting the (elds !ith blossoms of violet,
blue and !hite. &his display is over 2uicly, ho!ever, for each fax plant
blooms for one day only.
)arvesting"
&o preserve the full potential of each plant, fax is never mo!ed but must be
uprooted. Up through the 3econd 'orld 'ar, this !as an exhausting process
done by hand. &oday, mechanical grubbers do this tiring !or.
4rying"
#fter harvesting, the fax is staced in hedges to dry. 5nce dried, the seeds
are removed.
6etting and &urning"
&hen fax is exposed to moisture to brea do!n the pectins that binds the
(bers together. In the past, fax !as retted in rivers, particularly in the Lys
region, !hich imparted a lovely golden glo! to the (bers. &oday, for
ecological reasons, retting is no longer performed in rivers. &he preferred
method still re2uires the in
ervention of 0other 7ature as the fax is spread out in the (elds and exposed
to rain, de! and sunshine for several !ees.
3tripping and .ombing"
4uring these mechanical processes the (bers are separated from the stra!
8shives9, and then graded into the short (bers 8to!9 !hich is used for coarser
yarns, or the longer (bers 8line9 !hich !ill be used
to create the (nest linen yarn.
3pinning"
4rafting and doubling, or carding, dra! out the long or short (bers into
sinuous "ribbons" !hich are then plied together on spinning looms in various
!eights and thicnesses. &he (ne yarn is "!et spun" to impart a smoother,
shiny appearance. &he to! are commonly "dry spun" yielding a less regular
and napped yarn.
'eaving, :leaching and 4yeing"
:efore any !eaving occurs, the linen yarns are examined for strength,
evenness and pliancy. .lose tolerances on these properties are re2uired
because of the great speed of today%s po!er looms. &he looms of
Libeco;Lagae run around the cloc and are monitored by a central computer
to ensure 2uality and e<ciency. 4uring their =$hour shift, each !eaver can
no! be responsible for /- to /, looms.
#fter !eaving, each yard of fabric is examined and 2uality tested. If the fabric
is not being used in this ra! state, it moves to the (nishing department
!here it is bleached and>or dyed. :leaching linen re2uires consummate sill$
enough chemicals to remove any pectin or shive residue, but not so much as
to compromise the structure of the (bers. #fter bleaching or dyeing, various
treatments to mae it crease$ or soil$resistant can be applied.
Linen is crisp, clean and comfortable. 3oft, yet strong and durable. &he more
it is used, the softer and stronger it becomes. It can absorb up to ?-@ of its
!eight in moisture before it feels damp, and easily releases moisture to the
air to remain cool and dry to the touch. Flax remains colorfast and launders
beautifully. It has the additional advantage to be non$allergenic. Flax re2uires
considerably fe!er pesticides and fertilizers than other crops. &he (bers are
recyclable and eventually biodegrade.
For all these reasons, linen oAers fashion designers unlimited creative
potential, and !earers lasting enBoyment. :edding of pure or blended linen is
in vogue once more. 'e never tire of linen at the dining table. &he utility of
linen in the itchen is unrivaled. 7o other (ber can oAer this uni2ue blend of
luxury and comfort, supreme elegance and do!n$to$earth practicality