Introduction

Solapur is the largest city in southern Maharashtra,

India, & 6
th
largest in Maharashtra. It lies in border of
Maharashtra & Karnataka.
Solapur is well known for its textile industries, often
referred as the Manchester of India. Solapur
chaddars & towels are world famous. It has been a
leading centre for cotton mills & power looms India.
Solapur has been worlds second largest Asias largest
spinning mill.
Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres ,
suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing,
crochetingknitting, weaving, embroidery &
ropemaking. Thread is type of yarn intended for
sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured
sewing threads may be finished with wax or other
lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in
sewing.
Single or multicolored thread used in Solapur chaddar.

Materials for yarns

The most common plant fiber is cotton, which is
typically spun into fine yarn for mechanical weaving
or knitting into cloth. These tend to be much less
elastic, & retain less warmth than the animal hair
yarns, through they can be stronger in some cases. The
finished product will also look rather different from
the woolen yarns.
In general, natural fibers tend to require more careful
handling than synthetics because they can be shrink,
felt, stain, shed, fade, stretch, wrinkle, or be eaten by
moths more readily, unless special treatments such as
mercerization or superwashing are performed to
strengthen, fix color, or otherwise enhance the fibers
own properties.
It is based on conversion of 3 types of fiber into
yarn, then fabric, then textiles. These are then
fabricated into clothes or other artifacts. Cotton
remain most important natural fibre, so is treated in
depth. There are many variable processes available at
the spinning & fabric forming stages coupled with
complexities of the finishing & coloration processes to
the production of a wide range of products.

The doubling process

Doubling of yarn where 2 or more stands of ends of
yarn are twisted together. There are many purposes
where doubled yarn are used. Sometimes thread is
doubled to make warp & it is invariably used for the
manufacture of knitting yarn, crochet yarn & sewing
yarn. All these yarn must be smooth & free from knots.
In sewing thread, the treads are doubled in 2 phases. 2
or 3 strands are twisted together then 3 of theses
threads are twisted together, to form six or nine cord.
The spun yarn is wound onto a bobbin using a
doubling winding machine & 2 or more of these
bobbins are placed on doubling frame. The ends pass
through a series rollers & twisted together onto one
bobbin using a spindle & flyer.

Yarn color (Dyeing)

Yarn may be used undyed, or may be coloured with
natural or artificial dyes. Most yarn have single uniform
hue, but there is also wide selection of variegated yarns:
Heathered or tweed: yarn with flecks of
different color fiber.
Multicolored: variegated yarn with 2 or more
distinct hues.
Self striping: yarn died with lengths of color that
will automatically create stripes in a knitted or
crocheted object.
Marled: yarn made from strands of different-
colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in
closely related hues.



Dyeing

The tie dye is recognized & renowned craft
almost all over the world. Tie & dye was
further developed in specific silk regions of
India, China, Japan, West-Africa & Central
America. Until the advent of Synthetic dyes
natural dyes were used. The basic principle
of tie & dye is to tie the part of fabric with
thread; sting, cord, raffia, knotted, folded,
pegged etc where the color penetration
should be avoided. Whichever the part of
thread is tied retains the original color of
fabric. Without undoing the first tie dyeing is
done for first color. Second time dyeing is
done for second color. So when the tied
threads are undone, it will give three colors
on the fabric. First color is original color of
fabric, second color is first dye used for
dyeing on the fabric & the third color is
second dye used for dyeing on the fabric.
Silk is an essential fiber, & therefore like all
animal fiber, is made out of protein. Proteins
are made out of different combinations of the
twenty essential amino acids. Silk is less
sensitive to high pH than animal hair fiber.
This makes it the most versatile of all fibers
for dyeing. It can actually be dyed quite one
with the same soda ash recipe used to dye
cellulose fibers with fiber reactive dyes. Silk
can also be dyed with the acid dyes.

Dyeing procedure

Initially soaking of silk yarn is carried out the
water & little amount of coconut oil for 20
minutes for swelling purpose, then squeezing
is done to remove excess water 60 grams of
dye is pasted with water by warm heating at
40 C &then it is added to 20 liters of water in
which 5 kg of silk is introduced & dyeing is
carried out in presence of acid upto 60 C from
2-4 hours then squeezed & dried. They
produce 30 Kgs/day & wages range from 200
300/labour.

Yarn winding process

Winding is the process of transferring yarn or
thread from one type of package to another to
facilitate subsequent processing. The re-
handling of yarn is an integral part of the
fiber & textile industries. Not only must the
package & the yarn itself be suitable for
processing on the next machine in the
production process, but also other factors
such as packing cases, pressure due to
winding tension , etc., must be considered.
Basically there are two types of winding
machine: Precision winders & drum winders.
Precision winders used by primarily for
filament yarn, have a transverse driven by
acam that is synchronized with the spindle &
produce packages with diamond pattern
wind. Drum winders are used principally for
spun yarns; the package is driven by
frictional contact between the surface of the
package & the drum.

Tone printing

Tone on tone refers to printed fabric that is
made by combining different shades & tones
of the same color. Tone on tone fabric also
appear to be solid when viewed from a
distance, but their printed motifs become
recognizable on closer inspection.

Tone on tone printing is very subtle method
of imaging. The term refers to printing a color
on a top of the same or very similar color. It
could be black on black or any color printed
on top of the same color. The extra layer of
the ink makes the second image visible, but
only very subtly. It could also mean black ink
printed on black piece of paper of fabric. Its
more popular in the screen printing industry
where the difference in color tones generally
more noticeable or it refers to a printed fabric
that is made by combining different shades &
tones of the same color. Tone on tone fabric
often appears to be solid when viewed from a
distance, but their printed motifs become
recognizable on closer inspection. Tone on
tone fabrics is popular with quilters, because
they add subtle, visual texture to a quilt
without the busyness of a multicolor print.

Sizing

Sizing is gelatinous film forming substance in
solution or dispersion form, applied normally
to warp yarns. It can some time be applied to
weft yarns. Sizing is the process of applying
the size material on yarn. A generic term for
compounds that are applied to warp yarn to
bind the fiber together & stiffen the yarn to
provide abrasion resistance during weaving.
Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, & manufactured
polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol,
polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, & polyacetates
are employed.
The process of applying sizing compounds.
The process of weighting sample lengths of
yarn to determine the count.
Then it will attach to power loom.


Weaves

Plain & jacquard weaves are used in Solapur
Chaddar.
In the plain weave each filling yarn passes
over & under the warp yarns , with the order
reversed in altering rows. Fabrics made in the
plain weave include percale, muslin & taffeta.
Ribbed effects in such fabrics as faille
bengaline are produced by employing heavier
yarns for either the warp or the filling. In the
basket weave one or more filling yarns are
passed alternately over & under two or more
warp yarns.

Jacquard weaves, produced on a special loom,
are characterized by complex woven in the
designs, often with large design repeats or
tapestry effects. Fabrics made by this method
include brocade, damask, & brocatelle.

Process of weaving

Primary motions :
Shedding Dividing the warp sheet or shed into
two layers, one above the other for the passage of
the shuttle with the weft threads.
Picking Passing a pick of weft from one selvedge
of a cloth through the warp threads.
Beating Dividing the last pick through the fell of
cloth with the help of stay fixed on the reel.

Secondary motions :
Take up motion - Taking up the cloth, when being
woven & winding it on the roller.
Let off motion letting the warp wound on a warp
beam, when the cloth is taken up on the cloth
roller beam. Taking up & letting of the warp are
done simultaneously.

Objectives
To examine the opportunities available to them
for training & career progression.
To explore their ideas on the development of
higher education.
The study tour which includes presentations & the
exposure field visits to various sites & common
platform for sharing experience & knowledge,
management.
The study tour developed understanding &
imparts knowledge & resources conservation that
may be replicated by the participants in their
country of origin in the region through interaction,
sharing & transfer of the knowledge.
To study the various technique are used for weave
in Solapur Chaddar.
To study which kind of colors are used in Solapur
Chaddar.
To study how many technique of weaving is used.
To study which type of thread used in Solapur
Chaddar.
To study how to decide the cost of Solapur
Chaddar.
To study while weaving of threads breaks, & then
what you do & how do you continue again.
To study how much time is required to weave
Solapur Chaddar.
To study how many motions are there in power
loom.

Scope
Important of providing & maintaining of good
service is learned.
Technique of weaving can be learned.



Interview question
Since when you have started manufactured
Solapur Chaddar?
Are Solapur Chaddar famous in abroad as in India?
How many branches do you have in India?
Which are important colors used in Solapur
Chaddar?
Where does the Solapur Chaddar get exported?
Which type of loom is used in Solapur Chaddar?
How many motions are there in power loom?
From where do you purchase raw cotton &
finished cotton thread?
For making Solapur Chaddar how much grams of
warp yarns & weft yarns are used?
Which process is used to filled the thread into the
bobbin to weave the Solapur Chaddar?
Which are the different types of threads use in
Solapur Chaddar?
What are the techniques used in for weaving
Solapur Chaddar?
Explain in detail the technique used for weaving
Solapur Chaddar?