Trophy Deer Stand Plans

4 x 4 Plans
 4 X 4 Deer Stand plan and material list.
Thank you for your interest in my Deer Stands. I have been
hunting for 40 years and have seen just about all the
different types of hunting blinds imaginable. I have tried to
come up with a plan that is economical, simple and easy to
build. If you follow my plans you can build a stand that is
comfortable and ready to hunt. First you need to go to your
local lumberyard and pick up this list of materials.
1) 1--4'x8' sheet 1/2" CDX plywood
2) 4--4'x8' sheet 3/8" CDX plywood
3) 3--2"x4" x 8' treated
4) 19--2"x2"x8' treated or furring strips
5) 1--14' corrugated roofing
7) 2lbs 1 5/8" deck screws
8) 2lbs 3" deck screws
9)20--1" wood grip screws for roof
l0) 13--3" butt hinges
11) 4--3" barrel bolts
12) 2--3" hasps
13) 15' 1/4" Nylon rope
14) 7--1 x 2 x 8" furring strips (optional)
Estimated cost of materials $160.00. You will need a drill,
circular saw, a screw bit and a 5/32 drill bit for your drill. So
if you have all your tools and material ready, lets get started.
Step 1. Base
First step we will build the base to your stand. You need 3--
2x4x8'treated and Cut 2-2x4's 48" long, 4-2x4's 45" long and
assemble them as in Fig. A. Cut 1 piece of 1/2" plywood 48"
x 48" and screw it down to the base frame. This completes
your base.
Step 2. Front Frame
Next we will build your front frame. You need 4--2x2x8'
preferably treated if not untreated will do. Cut 2 pieces
48"long, cut 2 pieces 75" long, cut 2 pieces 45"long Drill a
hole through the ends of the two 48" 2x2's (this will keep
them from splitting). Use 3" deck screws to assemble this
section as in Fig. B. This completes your front section.
Step 3. Back Frame
Next we will build the backside with your door frame. You
need 4--2x2x8', cut 2--45"long, 3--72"long, 1--69" long, 1--
24"long. Using 3"deck screws assemble this section as in Fig.
D. Don't forget to drill the pilot holes in the end of the 2x2's.

Step 4.
Next screw the front frame down to the base making sure
that it is flush with the outside edge. Use 3" deck screws to
do this. Then screw the backside down to the base, putting
the door on whichever side you prefer. Once you do this
these two sides should stand on their own.

Step 5.
You need 5--2x2x8", cut 6--45"long and cut 4--45 7/16"long
with a 15% angle on each end (refer to Fig. C). (When
referring to Fig. C, remember the front and back vertical
2x2's are existing, all you will need to install are the
horizontal sections) Measure up from the floor 38" and
screw one 45" 2 x2 between the front and back wall.
Measure up 12" more and place another 2x2 from front to
back. Place one on the floor and screw it down, the place one
of the angle cut 2x2 at the top. Repeat this on the opposite
side. Then measure and locate the remaining two angle cut
2x2's in the roof for additional support. Space them equally
apart. Now your stand is completely framed and you're
ready to cut the plywood for the sides.

Step 6.

Cut 3 pieces of 3/8" CDX plywood 48"x40"and screw it to

the bottom portion of the frame. "note that it extends
2"below the bottom. This is one of the most important steps
because it locks the top portion of the frame to the base. Cut
1 piece of plywood 48 x 28" for the upper front portion. Cut
1 piece of plywood 48 x 74" long. Measure out the door on
this piece 25 1/2" x 62" and cut it out for your door. Next cut
2 pieces of plywood 48 x 28" for the top two ends of the
stand that are tapered. Fasten these two pieces temporarily
with a couple of screws and scribe the cut to be made on the
roof taper.

Step 7.
Next is the roof. Remember the floor" Take the other half of
the 1/2"CDX and place it up on the roof and screw it down. I
know it does not cover all the way, that's all right those deer
will never notice, besides we now can cover it with the
corrugated roofing.
Step 8.
Cut the corrugated roofing into 3 equal pieces 56"long each
and arrange them on the roof and screw them down using
the 1"wood grip screws being careful to align with the 2x2's.

Step 9.
Door, you need 2--2x2x58"long, 3--2x2x20 1/2"long. Don't
forget to drill the pilots in the ends of the 2x2's to keep them
from splitting. Assemble as Fig. E. This is the frame for your
door, now take the piece of plywood that is 25 1/2" x 62" and
screw it to the door frame, letting the 1 1/2" extend past the
frame on the right or left side, which ever side you put your
door on and let 4" extend past on the bottom.
Step 10.
Windows: You need 6--2x2x44 1/2" long, 6--2x2x8 1/2" long.
This will be the frame for the 3 windows, don't forget to pre
drill and assemble the three windows according to Fig. F.
Once you have the frames assembled then you can cut the
plywood for them, 3 pieces 12"x48". We want to let the
plywood extend 1 3/4" past the frame on each end and be
flush on the top and bottom. You can cut peepholes and
cover them with Plexiglas, stick it on with silicone.
Step 11.
Hardware: Now you can hinge your windows and door. I
recommend 13 hinges, 4 on the door and 3 on the windows. I
use 3" butt hinges.
Step 12.
Use the 1 x 2 to cover the corners of the stand if desired.
To hold the windows open I use a nylon rope about 1/4" dial.
Drill a hole through the bottom of the window and another
hole above the window. Take the nylon rope and run it out
through the hole in the window tying a knot in the rope so
that it won't pull through, and back through the other hole.
Now the window can be raised and the rope tightened to
hold it open. Drive a nail or a screw in the 2x2 to loop the
rope over to hold the window open. To hold the windows
shut use the barrel bolts, affix them to the windows and the
door. To secure the door when you leave your stand use the
two hasps, snap them shut or lock them. You can put carpet
on the floor and walls inside to make your stand more
comfortable, you can install shelves below and above the
windows. Best of all you can install a portable heater. You
can do all this with the money you saved by building your
own stand.