Plans for the “Programmable Deer Feeder” by “daddy_duncan”.

See previous
post in forum, for pictures of a completed timer mounted on a barrel.

The following is a copy of the plans of a Deer Feeder, that, I built, using a
“NOMA” digital timer. This timer sells for $9.99, and can be modified to run on
12 volts. It can be programmed, with up to 6 feeding times per day. It has an
internal Battery, that is trickle charged from the 12 volt supply, and will maintain
the time settings, when the 12 volt battery is taken out for charging or
replacement. It has a test capability, to check that it is working and to set the spin
time. The spin time is adjustable from 3 to 15 seconds, and can be made longer if
desired. It draws 1.5milliamps between feedings, and 1.6 amps during the feeding
spin cycle. The gel battery I am using should last 3-4 months before recharging.

These plans are of my design and are not intended to be used in the construction
of units for resale. They were made to be used for personal use only, and I will
accept no responsibility or liability arising from their use.

Remove timer from package, DO NOT PLUG IN WALL SOCKET, this will
charge the internal battery. Remove the four screws on the back of timer, and
carefully separate the two halves of timer. Remove the two small screws holding
the male wall plug prongs from the back of timer. Remove the three small screws
holding the cct. board to the back of timer. Separate the two halves of the timer.

Remove the male wall plug, female plug, fuse and associated wiring. Remove the
following parts from the cct board, D11, D12, D13, Leave D14 on the board,
Although the following picture shows D14 removed, leave it on the board, as it
will be used later. Remove the relay RT1, capacitors C1 and C4, and resistors R3
and R4. The board should look like the following picture, only D14 will still be
on the board.
Two parts are required for the following, a 100 mfd 25 volt capacitor, and a .01
ufd disc capacitor. The 100 mfd capacitor is installed in the position formally
occupied by D13, with the positive lead inserted in the hole next to the lettering
D13 and the negative end in the other hole closer to D11. The .01 ufd capacitor is
installed in the two holes located between D13-D11, and D14-D12. This will
give a little filtering from any noise or surges from the motor on the 12 volt
battery line. The diode D14 will stop anything flowing back towards the battery
line, if the battery wires are shorted together, while changing batteries. This may
or may not be needed, but the holes were there, and it won`t hurt. Solder a wire
for the 12 volt positive wire in the hole marked “N”, solder a wire for the 12 volts
negative to the foil, on the back of the board, at the junction of where Diodes D13
and D11 were originally located.

Solder two wires, one at each end of D2, on the foils on the back of the board.
These wires will go to the input relay RL1 of the motor control board, either wire
can be connected, to either side of the input relay. The board should look like
picture on next page. This completes the modifications to the Timer. Replace the
cct. board in the timer case, and reassemble case.

Parts list for motor control board as per diagram.

RL1- 12 volt single pole, double throw relay (light duty)
RL2- 12 volt single pole, single throw relay ( 10 amp contacts)
10k pot.
1k resistor,
220mfd electrolytic capacitor
NPN general purpose transistor
One amp silicon diode
Above picture shows completely modified timer board, with new parts installed

Diagram of motor control circuit board

Picture of motor control board, built on perforated board.

Picture of spinner plate made from 5 inch length, of ¾ inch square aluminum
stock, and piece of scrap aluminum plate. The hole for the motor shaft will
depend on the motor used. A hole was drilled opposite the motor shaft hole, on
one side only, and tapped for a ¼ by 20 bolt to lock spinner plate to motor shaft.

The motor that I used was a 12volt radiator fan motor, removed from a junked
Dodge K car. It is small, with plenty of torque. The only thing left is to mount the
motor in a box or case, and wire everything together. I recommend a 5 amp fuse
be installed between the battery and feeder motor and circuits.

The modified timer, and motor control should work as follows,

After power is hooked up, digital clock should be running. If no display on clock,
press the “Mode” and “Program” buttons at same time to reset clock.

Press and hold “Time” button, and set hours and minutes.

Press the “Mode” button once, this is the “always off” position, and “OFF” will
be displayed on display. The motor will not run when in this position, which is a
good position when handling, or transporting the feeder, to prevent spinner plate
causing damage.

Press the “Mode” button again, “On” will be displayed on display, indicating the
“always on” position. This should have activated the relay RL1 on the motor
control board, charging the capacitor C1 to 12 volts.

Press the “Mode” button one more time, “ON” will disappear from the display,
RL1 will drop out, and the charge on C1 will be applied to the transistor Q1,
pulling in the motor relay, and the spin motor should run for the length of time set
by the 10K pot. This makes for a good way to test the feeder, or set the time the
motor runs, and how much feed per feeding. Be sure when leaving the feeder in
the woods, check that the clock display does not show the “ON or OFF” symbols
or feeder will not run on the programmed times.

Set the times that you want the feeder to run, using the 6 available program “On-
Off” times. If you want the feeder to spin at 7.00am, Press the “Program” button,
and set the program 1 “ON” time to 7.00 am, press the “Program” button again
and set the program 1 “OFF” time to 7.01am. When the clock reaches 7.00am,
relay RL1 will pull in, charging C1. When the clock reaches 7.01am, RL1 will
drop out, and the motor will spin for the time set by the 10k pot. Set other times as
required

The first feeder that I built has been running for almost one month now, and is
working perfectly,
If you can`t find the type of timer that I used, there must be other types out there
that can be modified.

I would be happy to answer any questions associated with this project. It was fun
to build, and very easy to construct. Any comments would be appreciated.
daddy duncan@ yahoo.ca