Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad

Heat Setting of Fabrics

Objective: Heat setting is required
1. To impart good dimensional stability (both warp and weft direction)
2. To impart good stability in shape and size
3. To reduce undesirable creasing and wrinkling
4. To effect better dye uptake capability
Mechanism:
Synthetic fibres (Nylon, Polyester) consist of long chain molecules, which are not branched or only
slightly branched. After spinning operations these chains are distributed in random direction. So to
impart the desired properties to the finished yarn, these fibres are stretched to several times after
spinning. This gives a strong orientation of chain molecules parallel to the fibre axis.
For this reason, the polyester fibre, like all other manmade synthetic fibres, has only a low
capacity for water and dye liquor absorption.
If energy is supplied to these fibres in the form of heat, the chain molecules start vibrating. The
intensity of vibration increases with further increase of heat energy.
On increasing the energy, therefore, the side chains which are in the strained condition can
release and reach the state of minimum energy level. As a result the fibre shrinks. Now, if the supply of
energy is stopped as soon as mimimum energy level is reached and if the fibres are cooled as quickly as
possible, the H-bonds remain while the strains are released. Thus heat setting occurs within & between
the fibres.
Under such condition dye penetration inside the fibres become easier, no further shrinkage will
take place and will be wrinkle resistant.
Heat setting condition:
Type of fibre Heat Seting temperature (degree Celcius)
100% PET 180 to 185
Nylon 6 180 to 190
Polyester / Cotton 200 to 220
Nylon 66 170 to 225

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad


Soil Release Finish
What is soiling?
Soiling of textiles means textile material getting attracted to dirt or soil. The essentially hydrophobic
nature of most of the synthetic fibres, leading to the development of static electricity in them, makes
them prone to soiling.
Mechanism of soiling
Soiling of textiles is due to physical contact, static attraction and redeposition during washing. By nature,
hydrophobic fibre fabrics are prone to generation of static and are not easily wetted out by water while
washing and hence it is difficult to remove soil from the fabrics.
Soil release finishing treatment of polyester fabric
The problem of soiling of synthetic fibres can be reduced by hydrophilic finishes which will facilitate soil
release during washing and also prevent soil redeposition. Further, the hydrophilic surface would reduce
the static charge by maintaining moisture on the fabric surface. Thus soil attraction during wear can be
reduced.
Durable hydrophilic finish can be obtained on polyester fabric by applying a co-polymer of terepthalic
acid (TPA) and ethylene glycol(EG) by the pad-dry-cure process. The polyglycol ether group contains
oxygen atoms which are avilable for hydrogen bonds with the water molecules and thus imparts
hydrophilicity to the polyester. The durability of the finish results from non-hydrophilic portion in co-
polymer which forms a co-solution with the polyester in the fibre structure.





Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad


Fire Proof and Fire Retardancy
Fire proof or flame retardancy reatments are necessary for producing protective clothings for the
following purposes-
a) Military use
b) Industrial use
c) Civilian use
d) For producing upholstery, furnishing etc.
Mechanism of flame retardancy
The principle flame retardancy mechanism is to alter the pyrolysis reaction. The normal pyrolysis
reaction results in the production of 60% volatile fumes and 40% of black carbonised char, which may
not give rise flaming combustion, but may provide flameless combustion or smouldering which is known
as afterglow. The usage of some chemical compounds promotes the production of black char &
currently in use of flame retardant cellulosic fibres.
A flame retardant fabric should possess the following properties:
1. A high limiting oxygen index (LOI)
2. Long inginition time
Fire Proof: These are certain materials which have inherent fire proof properties as given below:
1. Glass fibre
2. Nomex fibre
3. Asbestos





Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad


Sanforization or Shrink resistance finish or
compressive shrinkage
The shrinkage which can take place in fabrics usually results from a relaxation of stresses and strains
which are been introduced into them during previous wet processings.
The inportant point to notice in this case is that most textile materials can be temporarily set in a
stretched state, which they will retain as long as they are kept dry. But as they are wetted the stretched
fibres rapidly tries to contract to their original unstretched condition or nearly so. In this phenomenon,
the textile material may obtain undesirable changes in shape and size.
The principle of sanforization is based on the fact that if fabric is previously shrinked, then it could not
shrink more in future. By sanforizing, shrinkage is introduced in a fabric and it remains in a fabric
permanently. To introduce shrink in a fabric, the fabric is palced on a highly tensioned elastic felt, which
describes a sinuous path.

Fig.


It is found that the convex surface is extended and the concave surface is contracted. Now when the
tension in the blanket is released, it assumes a shortened condition and the fabric is forced to conform
to this compression; as it is held firmly in contact with the blanket, by the drum of a modified palmer
machine.
Thus the measured piece of fabric, when washer under condition on the subsequent processes and
dried, no stretch will be introduced further.
Sanforization techniques pay attention to warp shrinkages and this is quite right for most fabrics,
shrinkage is more in warp than in weft.





Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad

Water proof and water repellent finish
Water proof fabric: When an uniform coating of suitable substances like as rubber, synthetic
plastic, wax, fat or oil is applied on the surface of the fabric, the interstiches between the warp and weft
yarns are permanently blocked by the continuous film of the substance, so that neither water nor air can
pass through it and adversely affects its comfort. This type of finish is called water proof finish.





Fabric characteristics:
1. In general, the impermeable finishes are not very attractive for clothing as the treated
material is heavy and stiff.
2. The draping qualities are almost entirely destroyed.
3. The airproof character prevents moisture escaping through the clothing from the body and
is therefore unhygienic.
Waterproof agents:
1. Rubber
2. Plastic
3. PVC etc.
Water repellent fabrics: When the fibres in a fabric become covered with a film of snthetic resin,
this repels and delays the absorption of water and penetration of water. This type of finish allows the air
to penetrate inside the fabric and its comfort is largely retained. This type of finish is known as water
repellent finish.
This method of finish fall into two main classes
1. Those in which a hydrophobic substance is deposited on the surface of the fibres, and
Water droplet
Fabric
Synthetic Coating
Synthetic
Coating

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad

2. Those where the fibres itself is made hydrophobic or water repellent with chemical
combination with the fatty chain







Fabric characteristics:
1. Imparts water repellency to the fabric which is fast to washing and drycleaning
2. Affects the porosity of air insignificantly
3. Imparts good elasticity, pliability and drapability
Water repellent agents:
1. Synthetic compoundsof high molecular weight (e.g. silicons, flurochemicals)
2. Aluminium compounds applied alone or with soap.





Water droplet
Fabric

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad


Mercerization of cotton
The process of cotton yarn or fabric with 18 - 25% of NaOH at room temperature so as to impart certain
finishes (permanent) or functional properties is called mercerization.
Mercerization affects the following functional properties of cotton yarn or fabric
(Mercerization without tension or chainless mercerization)
1. Shrinkage
2. Increases tensile strength
3. Increase elongation at break
4. Moisture regain
5. Dye uptake
6. Capacity of reaction increased at low temperature
When mercerization is done with tension, the following additional advantages
are obtained (Chain mercerization)
1. Silk like lustre
2. Circular cros section of coton hair
3. More uniform shape
Change in structure of cotton cellulose after mercerization
The kidney shape of mature cotton has a void space inside its cross-section. This is called lumen.
Mercerization process influences an appreciable change in cotton fibre by influencing both the natural
properties as beow
1. Fibre shape become circular due to swelling after mercerization, the lumen disappears. This
happens due to the fact that secondary layer in the cotton fibre structure absorbs alkali and
swells, hence minimizes the lumen space.

Lumen
Mercerisation
(Diagrammatic
view of change in
cross-section of
cotton section
during
mercerisation)

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad



2. The fibre assumes a cylindrical rod like appearance due to removal of natural twist called
convolutions.
As a result of these phenomenons, the lustre is improved in the mercerized material.
Ammoniating or NH
3
mercerization:
Mercerization of cotton can also be done by using ammonia at -30
0
C. The lustering effect is more w.r.t
mercerisation with NaOH.








Disadvantages of NH
3
mercerization:
1. Ammonia gas is harmful
2. Since ammonia is volatile, the process need to be carried out in sealed phase. The initial cost
thus is very high.





NH
3
at -30
0
C
Hot water wash
at 93
0
C

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad



Carbonization of polyester / Cellulose blended
fabric
The vegetable impurities such as burr that is present in a P/C blended fabric are removed by
carbonisation process. Carbonisation involves treatment with acid which while leaving the P/C fibres
practically unaffected, attacks the vegetable substances and converts them into easily pulverised hydro-
cellulose which may be washed out.
Recipe:
H2SO4 = 2.5%
Temperature = 80 850C
Time = 1 to 5 minutes

Crease resistance finish / Resin finish / Anti-
wrinkle Finish / Easy care finish
The ability of a fabric to resist the formation of crease or wrinkle when slightly squeezed is called
crease resistance and such fabrics are called crease resistant fabrics. This property is associated with
stiffness.
Mechanism of creasing
In cotton or other cellulosic fibres, the cellulose macromolecules from crystalline and amorphous region
depending upon whether they are sidewise linked by hydrogen bonds or not.
As can be seen from the adjacent figures, the macromolecules in amorphous region fall wide apart and
there is no hydrogen bonding present between them. When a cotton cloth is folded and pressed, some
of the hydrogen bonds at the boundery of crystalline to amorphous region breaks down. The hydrogen
groups are thus freed and they then set up hydrogen bonds with some other hydroxyl groups of the
amorphous region. These newly formed bonds bind the macromolecules and prevent unfolding i.e.
crease become more or less permanent.

Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad

However, when hot ironed the newly formed hydrogen bonds break and the crease is unfold and
removed.
Thus, it is evident that creasing behaviour of cotton goods depends upon the ability of free hydroxyl
groups in the amorphous region, to get bound together.

Different types of crease resistant / resin finish
1. Non-nitrogenous finish
2. Nitrogenous resin finish

1. Non-nitrogenousresin finish: By using formaldehyde problem of creasing can be removed
Advantages
1. The H-bond formation capability of the cellulose hydroxyl groups during cross-linking is
removed totally
2. It gives dimensional stability, making the fabric more resistant to creasing
Disadvantages
1. Stiffness increases
2. Comfort and absorbency decreases .

2. Non-nitrogenous resin finish
a) DMU (Dimethylol Urea)
b) DMEU (Dimethylolethylene Urea)
c) DMDHEU (Dimethylol-dihydroxy-ethylene Urea)
d) BTCA (Butane tetracarboxylic acid)



Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor, NIFT Hyderabad



Disadvantages
1. Excessive crosslinking causes loss in tearing strength
2. Abrasion resistance reduced due to resin deposition
3. Fabric handle deteriorates
Advantages of using DMDHEU
1. It is not skin irritant
2. It gives permanent finish
3. It improves crease resistance properties by cross-linking
4. Cost is within reasonable limit=