Surfing Hawaii

A Complete Guide to the

Hawaiian Islands Best Breaks
Rod Sumpter
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page iii
www.falcon.com
CHAPTER 1
Big Island
S
tart your journey on the Big Island by landing at Keahole Kona International
Airport on the western coast (leeward side). This is the best side of the island
for surf.
Indeed, in ancient times many kings made their home here due to the excellent
weather, good water, and consistent waves. Later, missionaries built churches and resi-
dences, turning the tiny fishing village of Kawaihae Harbor into a small seaport and
reducing the size of this classic surf spot.
The best surf is nestled at the bottom of the Hualalai Volcano, where a west swell
creates a dozen or more classic breaks. When youre gliding in to land and peering out
at swell sweeping in evenly around jet-black lava, you know youre in for some tasty
waveswaves that break in the same spot time and time again. It doesnt take long for
you to realize that the Big Island of Hawaii is big in every sense of the word. Driving time
to the North Shore or to the east coast from the Kona airport is three to four hours.
The surf on the Big Island is fickle. Its blocked from the main source of northwest
winter swells because its in the shadow of the other islands swell-window. The big win-
ter surf on the North Shore of Oahu may never reach the Big Island; still, a swell will get
through from time to time. You may find it breaking at one spot, yet half a mile on either
side is flat even though the underwater topography is similar. This amazing phenome-
non is still a mystery and the talk of many surfers on their first visit here. It may be that
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:38 PM Page 15
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01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:38 PM Page 17
its created when the swell is channeled though underwater passages and canyons.
In any event, the Big Island is a surfing education. Just about everything you
thought you knew about surf will puzzle you here, at least at first. Barefoot walking on
sharp, smooth, and twisted lava (boots are rarely used) takes some getting used to. Then
there are tan, black, and white beaches and more black lava than youve ever seen in
your life. Day in and day out, you are under the spell of the mountains and the weather.
The Big Island will sharpen up your thought processes. You need to handle it as locals
doas part and parcel of surfing great waves.
The north coast of Hawaii hosts classic remote surf below valleys; far beneath these
200-foot cliffs lie stunning beaches and seascape beauty. The south coast features
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On the east coastwhere it rains all the timethe best
breaks are at the base of the long, slow-sloping mountain called Mauna Loa (long
mountain, 13,679 feet), which lies near the geographic center of the island. Sixty miles
long and 30 miles wide, it consists of lava often described as iron-hard, making it the
densest and most massive mountain on earth. Nearby, Mauna Kea, the worlds tallest
mountain (33,467 feet measured from its base on the ocean floor), stretches toward
the stars.
From its frigid summit, powerful telescopes are trained on the outer reaches of the
universe. Youll surf under its spell where it enters the water; look back to land from the
takeoff spot, and the scene is breathtaking. The whole mood is ever-changing as
weather systems circulate from the mountain peaks and down to the sea, heralding
new swells and storms. Depressions appear, and the march of swell lines grows.
The grandeur of the Big Islandalso known as the Orchid Isleincludes some of
the worlds tallest mountains, deepest valleys, plunging waterfalls, and 266 miles of
coastline. With long, straight highways, its a drivers dream, for the most part well signed
and boasting high-quality, sealed roads. At 95 miles long and 80 miles wide, the islands
total land area is 4,038 square milesmore than the other three major islands com-
bined. Indeed, the Big Island makes up more than 63 percent of the land area of all the
Hawaiian Islands. Its also the youngest island, at a mere 500,000 to 800,000 years old.
(Only Lo`ihi, a seamount to the east that hasnt yet broken the surface, is younger than
Hawaii.)
And its still growing. Kilauea Crater on its southeastern end has flowed actively into
the sea and taken and given new surf spots. It seems that Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of
fire, is constantly creating and re-creating this magical spot.
18 SURFING HAWAII
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:38 PM Page 18
Upolu
When you arrive at this great surf spot, youll see black sand and thundering peaks far
below you, while waves line up, dash against the cliff, and peel. This remote black-sand
beach has a right-hand point break and collects a raw northwest, north, and northeast
swell in winteroften triple overhead. Its a big-wave rider spot most of the time. On
small days youll need hiking and climbing experience to get in and out. Park at Upolu
Lookout and hike down a difficult 300-foot path through rivers and streams to the
beach.
BIG ISLAND 19
Best Tides: Low.
Best Swell Direction: North.
Best Wave Size: Waist to double overhead.
Bottom: Sand.
Type of Break: Left and right.
Skill Level: Expert to big-wave rider.
Best Boards: Shortboard and gun.
Best Seasons: Fall and winter.
Crowds: Never crowded.
Water Quality: Clean.
Hazards: The hike in is steep and difficult.
Fees and Permits: No fee or permits are
required.
Schedule: Public access 24/7.
Finding the Break
Turn left out of the airport onto Queen Ka`ahumanu Highway (Hawaii Route 19); at
Kawahae, turn left again onto Hawaii Route 270 and continue to the end of the road.
When you park and look out over the ocean, youll see the trail down to the beach. Its
61.7 miles from the Kona airport.
Surf Description
Big, deep, heavy waves are the order of the day as a strong north swell hits. Its 10 feet
plus and one of the biggest ridable beach breaks on the island. The dark to black sand,
high hills, and remotenessits like Jurassic Park herewill all put you in a time warp.
Its you and the waves and nature and nothing else.
Situated at the end of Upolu Valley Lookout, the scenery in this spot is amazing:
300-foot sheer mountain cliffs plummet into the sea for 30 miles. The hike is for the
experienced hiker-surfer only. Itll take you an hour on the trail, crossing lagoons and
streams and navigating difficult overgrown paths. Once you reach the black-sand
beach, youll have it all to yourself. The waves are often powerful, with long, sloping
crests and thick backs ideal for a 7-foot, 10-inch mini gun. Theres bounce off the cliff, so
the takeoff can be a lurch up to double overhead on a 6- to 8-foot day.
A few teams of surfers have hired a helicopter and pilot to fly them in during the
morning, then airlift them out in the afternoon. Six surfers sharing the cost make this a
viable option. This could apply to many other remote beaches around the island.
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:38 PM Page 19
Upolu is an ideal spot for advanced surfers to test their mettle as well as their sur-
vival and surf planning skills. For the rest of us, however, its suitable only as a place to
watch the experts from the fabulous viewing platform of the Upolu Valley Lookout.
Local Events/Attractions
Kamehameha I Birthsite State Monument. Drive 1.6 miles southwest of the Upolu air-
port on the KawaihaeMahukona Highway (HI 270). Turn off onto the Upolu Airport
Road, then onto a coastal dirt road to find the memorial. The boulders within the site are
thought to be the great kings birthstones.
20 SURFING HAWAII
Upolu, Big Island. PHOTO ROD SUMPTER
Kawaihae Harbor is a left-hand reef break off breakwater; its
best in winter and needs a big northwest swell. Kawaihae was a
royal center where Ka`ahumanuKing Kamehamehas favorite
wifewas known to have ridden the waves. It remained
Kamehamehas residence from about 1790 to 1794 while he
planned the invasion of the other Hawaiian Islands.
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:38 PM Page 20
Spencer Park. A mostly flat, bodyboarding spot with the occa-
sional shortboard wave, this fickle area misses all the north
swells, but it likes a south swell with a lot of west in it to create a
fun wave. The shallow-water offshore coral reef does pick up the
odd swell. Youll also find lots of marine wildlife, showers, rest-
rooms, pavilions, electricity, picnic tables, tennis courts, and
tent/trailer camping (with a county permit).
BIG ISLAND 21
Hapuna Beach. A popular beach and park, this white sandy
stretch of paradise has beach, reef, and point surf in the winter,
but its a fickle place to get on. Lifeguard year-round; hot body-
boarding when theres surf. Its found off Queen Ka`ahumanu
Highway at mile marker 19.
Kiholo Bay. Reef breaks and a mixture of salt and fresh water
with a rocky lava islands and black-pebble beaches give this surf
spot a surreal beauty. Its surrounded by private property, but
there is public access to the beach. Turn off Hawaii Route 19 at
mile marker 82 for a panorama of the bay. To go in, you have to
hike from the highway down a long road to the ocean.
Kauna`oa Beach (Mauna Kea) is a hot winter bodyboarding spot
best in a west-to-southwest swell. Kauna`oa unfolds like a white
crescent sand dune and is 200 yards wide. Hotel-owned body-
board rentals are available. Public parking places are limited
its first come, first served. Enter through the gate to the Mauna
Kea Beach Resort, off Hawaii Route 19.
Anaehoomalu Bay (pronounced a na-ay ho-o mah-loo) is adjacent
to the Royal Waikoloan Hotel. A windsurfing and bodyboarding
spot, its a postcard-perfect white-sand beach with a sky-blue
lagoon and groves of coconut trees. Also known as A-Bay, its the
first beach after nearly 30 miles of the blackness of Kohalas lava
flows. Off Queen Ka`ahumanu Highway, between mile markers
76 and 77, a well-marked access road leads to the bay.
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:39 PM Page 21
22 SURFING HAWAII
Old Airport State Recreation Area. A break in the outer reef here
may offer a wave when everywhere else is flat. Hot waves to
double overhead, and steep rights and lefts; be sure to wear
beach booties when entering the water to avoid cutting your-
self on the rocky bottom. To reach the beach, follow the shore-
line north from King Kamehamehas Kona Beach Hotel for a few
hundred yards. Camping is not technically allowed at Old Kona
Airport, but many choose to pitch their tents anyway. The
beachs gates close at 8:00 P.M.
Mahaiula Bay, Kona Coast Park. This is a right-hand break with a
neat wall from a peak over a sand-and-lava bottom. It also goes
left into the rocksnot recommended! The paddle out is tough,
although the long lulls between sets will help. A beach launch is
easy but takes ten minutes because of the distance. This is a
good spot for bodyboards, shortboards, and longboards on the
right day; best with a northwest-to-north swell. The parks gate
is off Hawaii Route 1 between mile markers 90 and 91, at a sign
that reads KONA COAST STATE PARK. Drive in, stop about 100 yards
before the boat-launch parking lot, and take the lava trail to the
right. The park opens at 9:00 A.M.
Makalawena is a bodyboarding beach break with a white-sand
crescent beach. Turn off at mile marker 88 and park; to reach the
beach youll need either a twenty-minute walk or four-wheel
drive. No facilities.
01_Surf Hawaii_015 040 6/2/05 1:39 PM Page 22
Contents
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Surfing Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
How to Use This Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
How Waves Are Formed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Wind Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Types of Breaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Learning to Surf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Big-Wave Surfing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Coming to Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Getting Around on the Hawaiian Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Surfing Organizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1. Big Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Upolu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Kawaihae Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Spencer Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Kauna`oa Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Hapuna Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Anaehoomalu Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Kiholo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Makalawena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Mahaiula Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Old Airport State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Pinetrees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Clays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Hanos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Banyans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Lymans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Magic Sands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Kahalu`u Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Ke`ei, Kealakekua Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Hookena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Milolii Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Kaalualu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Honuapo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Punaluu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Halape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Keauhou Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Apua Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
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Pohoiki First Bay, Second Bay, and Third Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Kaimu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Richardsons Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Kealoha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Bay Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Honolii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Waipi`o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Waimanu Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Big Island Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
2. Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Subs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Coconuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Honolua Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
The Cave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Slaughterhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
The Stables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
D. T. Fleming Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Golf Balls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Little Makaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Napili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
S-Turns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Embassy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Rainbows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Osterizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Black Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Ka`anapali Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Mala Wharf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Lahaina Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Lahaina Reefs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Shark Pit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Hot Sands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Puamana Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Launiupoko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Olowalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Ukumehame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
1000 Peaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
McGregor Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Ma`alaea Pipeline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Housing Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Kihei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Kalama Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Dumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
viii CONTENTS
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La Perouse Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Hamoa Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Koki Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Hana Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Wailea River Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Wailea Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Ke`anae Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Honomanu Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Jaws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Ho`okipa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Lanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Kuau Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Paia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Baldwin Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Kanaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Kahului Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Paukukalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Waiehu Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Honokahau Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Wind Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Maui Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
3. Molokai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Mo`omomi Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Kepuhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Kawakiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Papohaku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Kapukahehu (Dixie Maru) Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Halo O Lono Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
The Wharf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Pohakuloa Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Halawa Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Molokai Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
4. Lanai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Polihua Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Hulopo`e Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Manele Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Sharks Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Naha Beach (Fishermans Shack) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Lopa Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Makaiwa Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Halepalaoa Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Keomuku Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
CONTENTS ix
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Shipwreck (Kaiolohia) Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Lanai Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
5. Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Revelations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Phantoms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Velzyland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Freddyland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Backyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Sunset Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Sunset Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Vals Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Kammieland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Monster Munch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Rocky Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Gas Chambers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Turkey Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Pupukea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Ehukai Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Banzai Pipeline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Second Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Third Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Backdoor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Off the Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Insanities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Rockpile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Log Cabins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Outer Log Cabins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Peles Followers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Three Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Waimea Bay Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Pinballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Waimea Shore Break . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Elephants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Marijuanas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Alligator Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Left Overs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Right Overs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Pidleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Chuns Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Jockos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Laniakea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Himalayas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
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The Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Pua`ena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Haleiwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Toilet Bowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Avalanche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
The Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Hammerheads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Silva Channel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Mokuleia Beach Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Day Star Army Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Kaena Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Yokohama Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Kea`au Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Makaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Klausmeyers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Turtle Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Pokai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Maili Rights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Tumble Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Maili Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Shorebreak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Tracks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Power Plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Kahe Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Bathtubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Barbers Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Officers Surf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Coves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Shark Pit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Lots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Sea Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Ewa Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Sand Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Incinerators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Point Panic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Kewalos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Marine Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Big Rights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Concessions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Tennis Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Baby Haleiwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Bamburas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
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Magic Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Ala Moana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Rockpile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
In-Betweens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Fours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Kaisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Threes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Populars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Canoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Cunhas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Queens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Kuhio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Sans Souci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Publics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Castles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Old Mans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Ricebowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Tongs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Graveyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Suicides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Sleepy Hollow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Diamond Head Lighthouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Cliffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Ka`alawai Point (Browns) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Mahoney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Kahala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Ka`alawai Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Black Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Wailupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Toes Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Taiko Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Turtles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Pole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Fingers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
China Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Portlock Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Sandy Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Half Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Full Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
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Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Littles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Irmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Middles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Generals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Suicides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Makapu`u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Rabbit Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Waimanalo Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Bellows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Lanikai Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Mokulua Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Flat Island (Popoia Island) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Kailua Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Kailua Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
North Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Sugar Mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Kanenelu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Polynesian Cultural Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Pounders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Malaekahana Bay, Goat Island (Moku`auia Island) . . . . . . . 194
Seventh Hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Kahuku Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Turtle Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Kawela Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Oahu Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
6. Kauai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Hanalei Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
The Bowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Middle Break . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Pinetrees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Wai Cocos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Tunnels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Cannons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Hanakapiai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Kalalau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Polihale Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Fishermans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Rocket Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Barking Sands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Whispering Sands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Kini Kini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
CONTENTS xiii
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page xiii
Hamburger Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Majors Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Rifle Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Targets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Outside Left-Lefts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
First Ditch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Second Ditch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Kekaha Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Intersections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Teresas Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Davidsons Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Family Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Waimea River Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Pakalas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Avalanches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Salt Ponds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Hanapepe River Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Acid Drop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Centers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Longhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Cows Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
First Break . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Waiohai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Brennecke Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Shipwreck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Amonias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Nawiliwili Lihue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Coco Palms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Horners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Kealia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Donkey Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Crack 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Gas Chambers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Anahola Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Rock Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
Kalihiwai Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
Hideaways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
Kauai Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
xiv CONTENTS
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page xiv
Introduction
You know, there are so many waves coming in all the time,
you dont have to worry about that. Just take your time
waves come. Let the other guys go; catch another wave.
Duke Kahanamoku
Surfing Hawaii
The United States is blessed with waves of all kinds, from the best in the world to the
worlds most difficult. To find the best of the best of these waves, you need only go to
Hawaii, where some of the worlds leading waves thunder in for prime surfing. Today
there are more famous surf spots per mile in the Hawaiian Islands than anyplace else
on earth.
Comprising eight major islands in the central Pacific Ocean, Hawaii stands alone as
the worlds first and foremost surfing mecca. This is the place where surfing began and
where todays best surfers come to test their skills against natures toughest waves.
Among these islands, Oahu and Maui stand apart, offering up some of the Aloha States
finest surf. Warm waters, blue-turquoise seas, and mountainous groundswells from the
Pacific give Hawaii its legendary surf.
00_SurfHawaii_001 014 6/2/05 1:47 PM Page 1
It is the North Shore of Oahu where surfing is at its peak. From December to March
you can see 30-foot-plus surf at Waimea Bay and Kaena Point. Maui does quite well on
its own, with places like Jaws, which may break at 60 feet, and Honolua Bay often offer-
ing surfers the perfect wave. Overall, whats on offer at most of Hawaiis breaks are
short, fast, vertical, and powerful waves with hard sand or sharp coral waiting to break
a leg. Hawaii is not for the fainthearted. Many a surfer has grown up, grown older, and
grown wiser at the hands of the most gripping waves in the world at places like Sunset
Beach, with its bigger-than-life peak; Banzai Pipeline, ready to maim; and Chuns Reef,
ready to give longboarders the best fun of an entire trip.
And theres so much more. Sandy Beach pounds out bodyboards like its a stamp
machine. Waikikis outrigger canoeists surf Diamond Head alongside longboarders.
And Hawaiian surfing legend Buffalo Keaulanas Big Board Surfing Contest is held every
February at Makaha. In Hawaii surfing is epic.
With perfect swells from tropical weather systems originating in the Aleutians and
Alaska, long-distance groundswells provide powerful winter surf to these islands from
November to March. Of the eight islands, Oahu, Maui, Kauai, the Big Island (Hawaii),
Molokai, and Lanai can be surfed, while Ni`ihau and Kaho`olawe are off-limits. There are
also twenty-nine atolls on what is called the Northwest Hawaiian Islands; these are
open to ocean surfing, tow-in surfing, and extreme launch-ins from boats. There is
plenty to discover in these Hawaiian Islands if you have the will and respect the local
traditions, peoples, and their way of life. You also need to respect Mother Oceanyour
life will depend on it.
How to Use This Guide
Surfing Hawaii starts with the notion that every wave is different. The reasons for this
are very complicated, as youll see in the sections that follow. Put simply, however, if
youd like to have a full wave repertoire and a continually rewarding surfing experience,
you must travel and challenge all kinds of conditions. To surf well you need to visualize
your movements. And so a surfers dream wave develops as a vision out of advancing
ability and technique. The only real way to satisfy a craving for progress is by surfing dif-
ferent and better breaks on the other side of the hill.
This book is a guide for the beginner and the expert alike. It accommodates the
needs of all grades of surfer and describes every location comprehensively with the
facts you need to know. All the best and named longboarding, shortboarding, body-
boarding, and bodysurfing locations in the Hawaiian Islands are covered. The book is
organized in the order of the islands as the sun rises and sets across them from east to
west, beginning with the Big Island and ending with Kauai.
All the surf spots in this book, both featured and secondary spots, are arranged in
geographical order and are listed counterclockwise from the north side of each island.
Names of featured spots appear in boldfaced type in the contents and on the maps.
The featured spot listings contain directions, detailed information, and surfer ratings,
2 SURFING HAWAII
00_SurfHawaii_001 014 6/2/05 1:47 PM Page 2
which include beginner, novice, learner, intermediate, experienced, expert, advanced,
and big-wave rider. Thumbnail surfing photos indicate secondary spot listings, which
contain short descriptions and useful facts.
How Waves Are Formed
The most common cause of waves is wind action in the open ocean. Earthquakes and
volcanic eruptions beneath the ocean can cause seismic sea waves, but these surging,
killing walls of water are rare. Storms in the open ocean, on the other hand, are quite
common. They provide the sport of surfing with ridable waves as a result of variations
in air pressure that force gusty winds upon the oceans surface. If the wind is strong and
steady enough, it will form chop over a large area referred to as a sea or wind fetch. As
these wind waves are blown downwind, they become longer, smoother, and more
organized and take the form of what is known as a groundswell or wave trains. A swell
is what we recognize as the marching lines of energy that travel across the open ocean;
theyre called corduroy upon reaching a shore. Swells can travel thousands of miles
without losing much energy until they hit shallow water on our shores to form a break-
ing wave. Hawaiis huge surf is a result of long-distance groundswells and wave trains
from faraway storms.
North and northwest swells or wave trains are produced by storms in the North
Pacific in winter months and are the largest and most powerful.
West swells are created by storms in the West Pacific and are most common in fall
and spring.
South and southwest swells are generated by storms in the South Pacific in our
summer months and can also result in overhead good-size waves.
Wind swell is a term used to refer to less consistent and usually smaller waves that
are produced by storms or strong
winds within a couple of hundred
miles of the coast.
Waves generated by the wind
may range in height from less than
an inch to as much as 60 feet. Ocean
wave size is determined by the wind
velocity, the fetch, the length of the
area affected by the wind, and the
length of time the wind blows. Big
surf is made by large, long-lasting
storms with strong winds far out at
sea. Surf forecasters today can pre-
cisely determine when large waves will hit a particular spot on the coast by using
weather data and computer models.
INTRODUCTION 3
The Hawaiian Islands are grouped
closely together, with each island casting
a swell shadow across its neighbors.
Only those coasts open to the direct
swell path receive wave trains or the full
force of the waves; blocked or shad-
owed islands receive waves of smaller
size, or they may even be flat.
00_SurfHawaii_001 014 6/2/05 1:47 PM Page 3
OAHU
KAUAI
NIIHAU
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
P A C I F I C O C E A N
Kapaa
Puuwai
Honolulu
Lihue
Wahiawa
Kaneohe
Eloele
Waialua
Pearl City
Ewa
Lanikai
159
159
19
21
K
a
u
l
a
k
a
h
i

C
h
a
n
n
e
l
K
a
u
a
i

C
h
a
n
n
e
l
K
a
i
w
i

SCALE RF 1 : 2,500,000
Kilometers
Miles 0 50
100 0
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page vi
HAWAII (BIG ISLAND)
MAUI
KAHOOLAWE
LANAI
MOLOKAI
Kal ohi Channe l
Kolekole
Mauna Kea
Mauna Loa
Kilaueaiki Crater
Kilauea Crater
Kualapuu
Lanai City
Lahaina
Hawi
Hilo
Wailuku
Kalaupapa
Kalawao
Paia
Halawa
Nakapala
Keaukaha
Volcano House
Pahala
Captain Cook
Kaalualu
157 155
157 155
19
21
Cape
Kumukahi
Ka Lea
(South Point)
Keahole Point
Puakea Point
C
h
a
n
n
e
l
P
a
i
l
o
l
o

C
h
a
n
n
e
l
A
u
a
u
C
h
a
n
n
e
l
K
ealaik
ah
ik
i
C
h
an
n
el
A
l
e
n
u
i
h
a
h
a

C
h
a
n
n
e
l
E W
S
N
o
r
t
h
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page vii
MAP LEGEND
Accommodations
Airport
Gate
Overlook
Point of Interest
Structure
Towns / Cities
Waterfall
Peaks
Campsites
Craters
Highways
Major Roads
Trail
Rivers / Creek
Park Boundary
H1
78
00_SurfHawaii_001 014 6/2/05 1:47 PM Page 14
Copyright 2005 by The Globe Pequot Press
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by
any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted by
the 1976 Copyright Act or by the publisher. Requests for permission should be made in
writing to The Globe Pequot Press, P.O. Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437.
Falcon and FalconGuide are registered trademarks of The Globe Pequot Press.
Spine photo Andrew Sarnecki/Brand X Pictures
All interior location photography courtesy of author Rod Sumpter. Stock thumbnail
surfing imagery with secondary spots Brand X Pictures.
Text design by Linda R. Loiewski
Maps by Multi Mapping LTD. The Globe Pequot Press
ISSN 1554-7817
ISBN 0-7627-3131-1
Manufactured in the United States of America
First Edition/First Printing
The author and The Globe Pequot Press assume no liability for accidents
happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities
described in this book.
00_Surf Hawaii_i xvi 6/2/05 1:37 PM Page iv