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modle / model ch. / sca. fab. / man modifications / add ons



1/35
e Tamiya


rf. 35510 US M1A1 Abrams 1
Burn in Hell
M1A1 Abrams
Cojone eh
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History
At a time when the frst American reports
on combat losses are published, Victory
in Iraq is far from being achieved. This
model of the Famous M1a1 Abrams named
Cojone Eh proves this. Far more than a
single combat tank destroyed , it is a true
symbol incarnated in Cojone eh, showing
US Army bogged down in a country more
and more hostile to the army which was
supposed to liberate it.
April 5
th
2003 in the suburb of Yarmouk,
a few days after the fall of Baghdad.
It was around 10.30 when fre broke
out in the engine compartment of the
Cojone Eh tank. It was apparently oil
carried into some jerrycans and pierced
by Iraqi bullets that started the fre.
Gis attempted to stop the fre but in
vain, they had to leave the M1 to its
fate. Iraqis tried to tow the tank, but
didnt succeed. American command was
determined not to leave the tank in
enemy hands and called upon aviation to
fnish off the Cojone Eh with Maverick
anti-tank missiles.
Assembly
The base model is the one from Tamiya which
is rather old. Details are quite rare on this
model even if there arent a lot on this type of
tank. Movable suspension arms or possibilities
to easily open the side bins would have been
welcome etc... As I had the etched brass set
for the Dragon kit of the Abrams, I therefore
needed to adapt the parts, most of the kits
on the market showed differences. But with a
few little tricks, I managed to get to the end.
Bearing in mind that it would be a destroyed
vehicle, some artistic licence may be taken.
Eduard photo etched parts ref.: 35510 - plastic tracks AFV CLUB ref.: AF 3512
Materials
replacement and part fabrication:
1
The various tools and materials used for the
transformation and the replacement of the destroyed
parts. An aluminium sheet, a cutter and a sheet of tracing
paper.
2
The aluminium sheet is an indispensable allie for
this project. It was with this material that I was able to
reproduce and duplicate the destroyed parts. Using the
tracing paper, I copied the desired elements. I had used
aluminium on previous models because it is a really user
friendly material. It can be cut effortlessly with a large
cutter, and it can be bent easily.
3
Here is an example of what can de done with
aluminium, one of the turret side bins. This will be heavily
damaged to suit the model.
4
Aluminium and the Eduard etched brass complement
each other very well, as can be seen on this photo. The
level of detailing is very high.
The wheels
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Most of the running gear was cut and separated from the main hull.
Using a sawing disk ftted on a motor drill, the suspension arms were cut and
replaced by new ones made from Evergreen plastic strips. It looks a bit odd, but
it has no importance at this stage. What we want is a tank stuck in the ground,
because it was demolished, it will allow you to hide these parts behind combustion
residues and soil.
2

A big problem rapidly emerged when starting this destroyed Abrams. The wheels
are surrounded by a large rubber shoe, which had to be eliminated.
Each wheel was fxed to a screw and ftted into a large motor drill. Once tight, I
switched the drill on and using a large fle I removed the excess plastic.
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2/ Frame assembly
Most of the work will be concentrated on the
rear plate here. Eduards Pe Set for the Trumpeter
kit will provide the fuel drum supports
(strangely they are not in the Tamiya detailing
kit) and give a real plus to the kit
The 2 fuel drums in the kit were really too neat
for my taste, so Ive used one from an old Tamiya
reference (35026) while the other one has been
scratch built with lead foil in order to dent it as
I wish.
Because a burnt out vehicle really doesnt sit on
its tracks in the same way as an operational one
I have had to drill the holes for the wheel legs in
order to be able to move them as I wish later.
3/ The turret
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Tamiya have done a very good job here, but
once again, there is some room for improvement.
Ive replaced all the tie downs, hatch handles,
and grab handles with copper wire. Some more
details for hatches came from the Eduards PE
set. The support for the searchlight came from
the Eduards set for the Esci kit. The anti-aircraft
Dhsk gun is a little gem but some details by
Eduard (once again) will be added. The control
cable from the handgrip to the main trigger will
be made from copper wire.
The main gun is perfect as it is and really doesnt
need any work, and I dont see why you would
need to replace it with any turned barrel.
The last detail you would have to add is the
coaxial gun, which is not in the box; I made
mine with a reworked MG34 that I kept in my
sparebox.
4/ The tracks
I did chose to use the new ModelKasten ref on
my model, as the one provided in the box will no
longer ft after I have moved all the road wheels
(anyway, I never use the vinyl tracks!). Why didnt
I choose the Friul ones? Good question! Ive read
on the internet that the MK ones were more in
scale so thats the reason for my choice. Finding
them was another story and after a kind of
internetothon took place to fnd me the tracks
(thanks again guys !) its fnally Jon Tamkin from
mission models who sent me a set.
These tracks are really superb and I was surprised
to see how easy it was to build it. Ive used 88
links on the left side and 87 on the right. Once
built I immediately painted it with my usual mix
of gunmetal and raw umber.
Painting
Toutes les peintures utilises sont des rfrences enamels de Modelmasters.
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A frst coat of fat black followed with Russian armour green will act as primer.
2

Then some Afrika Braun lightened to 50% with light skin tone will be applied in a very thin layer in
order to let some green visible in all the recesses
3

Once dried the same mixture will be lightened with appreciatively 30% of fat white and again applied
in very thin layer.
4

The markings were done by hand with a 15/0 brush as per some pictures I have in the Raids
magazine those markings are for the number 8647 in Arabic letters. Once this work has dried, a coat of
future will be applied to the whole vehicle to protect the paint of the upcoming washes.
5

A frst light wash of burnt umber will be applied to the whole vehicle and immediately followed by a
darker one, but this time focusing on all the recesses only.
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The chipped paint effect was the next step and has been done with gunmetal, some rust streaks were
liberally applied with raw umber artists oils.
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Neubaufahrzeug
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History
In 1933 Rheinmetall-Borsig was ordered to build a
multi turreted tank. By the end of 1934 two light
steel prototypes were ready. While the chassis
passed all tests successfully, the turrets did not.
Thus Krupp has been requested for redesign and
new construction. In 1935 Rheinmetall fnished
three armoured hulls and Krupp their turrets.
These three vehicles were assigned to special
purpose detachment 40 (PzAbt zbV 40 ) and were
shipped to Norway in April 1940. After their
frst employment against British forces one
Neubaufahrzeug bogged down near Lillehammer
and had to be blown up by its crew. The remaining
two vehicles remained in the fortress of Akershus,
near Oslo, until the end of 1940 and then returned
to Germany. They were again sent to battle during
Operation Barbarossa, but were destroyed on 28
June 1941 from hits from KV I tanks. The mild
steel prototypes were used as training tanks.
The kit...
...is full resin. The parts are moulded in yellow,
odourless material. The resin for the turret and
hull is of very strong consistence with large,
diffcult to remove moulding blocks. I damaged
the bow quite heavily during clean up and had to
rebuild the area with putty. There are only a few
air bubbles to claim on the surface of the parts.
Some of the round parts ( exhaust pipes, gun
mantlet, gun ) suffered from resin streaks on the
surface, which were diffcult to remove due to
the strong material they are made of. The quality
of the parts varies from very good to average
(road wheels, support rollers and their support).
Many hatches can be positioned either open or
closed, but no interior has been provided. The MGs
are beautifully detailed, each muzzle has been
drilled out already. Thos who intend to provide
moveable turrets should consider installing the
hooking system well known from plastic kits as
nothing similar is foreseen in the kit. The turrets
are simply put on and are liable to fall off as soon
as the model is tilted (presentation, transport). It
seems that the master modeller used photoetched
weld seams. They look too regular and thus not
realistic. The surface of the vehicle is even, no
armour texture has been represented. The kit
provides a very nice PE Set from polish company
PART. The rear side of these PE parts is covered
with a layer that allows one to use household
superglue for mounting them. Thus I only used
superglue liquid and gel from Loctite for this
project. The instructions consist of only three
pages . One page, format DINA4, giving short
explanations in English/Polish about the vehicle,
how to work with resin, which PE parts must not
be used and how to paint the vehicle ( Humbrol
32 ! ) On the return side turret construction and
adding the tracks is described. For constructing
the hull only one DIN A3 page with one explosion
template has been provided. There are neither
decals nor stencils for adding the markings
available. The instructions do not refect on
markings at all. One small headlight was missing,
but some additionally tools and wheels were
provided. A small hatch was unusable due to bad
moulding and I had to built one from scratch as
replacement. As this kit was built for a customer
I had to agree on certain compromises which I
would not have done if this would have been one
of my projects.
Construction
I had to analyse the instructions quite often and
studied drawings and photographs a lot until I
was ready to start this adventure. Before I used
any glue it was time to clean up all parts and to
store them in small boxes. During this process it
became evident that the road wheels and return
rollers suffer from relatively large moulding
blocks which do not provide a separation area,
like it can be seen on products from other
companies. In this case the clean up results in a
partial damage of some wheels. Normally I would
have corrected these errors with putty, but as
I do not get paid for such extra work I have
hidden the damaged wheels by positioning them
towards the lower hull. The quality of the support
frames for the support rollers also caused some
troubles as they are very delicate to handle. I
had to built one from scratch because it was not
moulded correctly. The construction of the hull
is straightforward. The parts are very thick, but
as a result, they are not warped. For my taste
the panels between the engine hatches were
oversized in depth and therefore I flled them up
with Tamiya putty, smoothened them with a brush
soaked in Italeris liquid glue and engraved more
realistic panels after the putty was dry.
As the turret parts did not ft as expected I had
to fll and sand a lot. Although or because of my
highly sophisticated storage system I managed to
loose one of the lateral turret hatches. So I had
no choice and built all two of them from scratch,
using plasticsheet and hatches from an Italeri
Panzer I. So far, so good. For the further steps I
had to rely on different references frequently
as the instructions were simply not suffcient
enough.
After completing the turret I started with the
running gear. This is the most complex area
and requires a lot of concentration. Each bogie
consists of ten resin and two etched parts. But
frst of all I added the springs to the underside of
the armoured belly. They help a lot on positioning
the bogies. Then I built the bogies, except for the
etched parts and swing arms.
The latter have plugs to ft in the suspension,
but there are no plug ins available. Thus I had to
remove the plugs which makes the test ftting
even more complicated. While the hull was tilted
over, I placed each bogie on a spring and gently
glued one swing arm to its suspension. With such
a temporary fx I turned the hull and placed it on
a fat surface and adjusted the bogies until each
running wheel touched the ground. Afterwards
I added the second swing arm and then it was
time to take care of the bogies dress. I heated
them gently with a hair dryer and placed them
into position, using a ruler as a guide. Finally,
after rechecking that all wheels still touch the
ground, I glued the bogies to their springs and
added an extra drop of glue to the swing arms.
Then I completed the running gear. I added the
etched parts shortly before painting as I feared
that they would break off during construction. The
next tricky thing was already waiting behind the
corner: adding the fenders! They are made of PE
parts, which have to be assembled according to the
scale : 1/35
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- Armo ref 35025 - Jadar Models, Poland